Not Just for Tourists: Walking Tours Locals Love

Updated: June 1, 2014

If you’re a San Francisco resident, chances are you think city walking tours should be relegated to shivering tourists waving from open-topped tour buses. But sometimes it’s fun to play the tourist even in your own city, especially one like ours that’s so full of storied streets, alleys, and buildings. Walking tours are a great way to get out and about and learn about the city’s colorful, flamboyant history.

We asked local tour operators which tours are most favored by locals, and here’s what they had to say.

Leo Grin

DASHIELL HAMMETT TOUR. Fans of noir fiction and Dashiell Hammett, author of the famous mystery novels starring detective Sam Spade, will love this tour, which is the longest running literary tour in the nation. It’s led by Don Herron, author of The Literary World of San Francisco and editor of selected letters of Philip K. Dick – a guy who clearly knows his stuff and has been praised not just for dressing in a snap-brim hat and trench coat, but for leading a tour that, according to The Wall Street Journal, “moved like a drunken cat through the streets and back alleys of the Tenderloin. It passed Southeast Asian diners, tawdry hotels, bars without windows, and places where a twenty will buy you more than the weekend’s groceries.” $20 per person.

COME OUT TO THE CASTRO. It’s hard to imagine now, but the neighborhood we call the Castro was once a subdued, working class community known as “Eureka Valley.” Take this tour with Foot! Comedy Walking Tours and laugh your socks off while you learn about the neighborhood’s history from the 19th century to the present. Stops include the Castro’s very first gay bar, the surprising controversies that flutter with the iconic massive rainbow flag, and of course the Castro Theatre, which first opened in 1922. As the company’s web site promises, “you’ll  have a gay old time.” $30 per person.

CITY SCAPES AND PUBLIC PLACES. Some of the city’s most iconic gems are on display, like the Transamerica Building, the Hallidie Building, known for its “glass curtain walls,” and the Hunter-Dulin Building with its late Gothic revival style of architecture; as are some lesser known and even hidden from the street. Take this tour, offered by SF City Guides, on a Friday (10 am or 1:30 pm) and check out the best of the Financial District’s architecture as well as secret spots high and low, from the Transamerica Redwood Park to the rooftop decks such as the Four Seasons at 343 Sansome or the Crocker Galleria Rooftop Terrace, both POPOS (“privately owned public spaces”) that are popular lunchtime spots on sunny days. Free, but donations are welcome.

SF City Guides

GOLD RUSH CITY. Back in 1848, the the small village of San Francisco transformed almost overnight into a pop-up city – chaotic and lawless. This tour, from SF City Guides, will fill you in on when and how local militias took the law into their own hands in the 1850; the local eccentric by the name of Joshua Norton who declared himself “Emperor of the United States” and whom residents adored; and how entire crews abandoned hundreds of ships in Yerba Buena Cove in order to join the Gold Rush. Free, but donations are welcome.

THE STINKIN’ RICH AND DIRTY MONEY THAT BUILT NOB HILL.You may know about the dirty ways of San Francisco’s Railroad Barons, the 19th century’s masters of corruption, but have you ever heard about the financial shenanigans of the Bonanza Kings, the four men whose two silver mines produced $3,000,000 per month? Find out all about glittering Nob Hill’s unethical underbelly with this tour from Foot! Stops include the requisite Nob Hill mansions as well as the Fairmont Hotel and Grace Cathedral. $30 per person

Flickr: DieselDemon

TELEGRAPH HILL STAIRWAY HIKE. Telegraph Hill is perhaps best known for Coit Tower, but its residents know that the landmark is just one of the neighborhood’s many attractions. With this tour from SF City Guides, you’ll pound the pavement (and the wooden Filbert Street steps) to enjoy some of the best views of the Bay the city has to offer. Along the way, your guide will point out some of the neighborhood’s most attractive gardens as well as cottages that date from the Gold Rush era. If you’re lucky, you’ll see the flock of wild parrots made famous in the documentary The Wild Parrots of Telegraph Hill. Free, but donations are welcome.

– Meghan Laslocky

 

 

 

Adam Savage: Best Bay Area Spots to Take Kids and Dogs

Updated: June 1, 2014

Glen Canyon Park

Mythbusters’ Adam Savage has two kids and two dogs, and as a longtime San Franciscan, he has no shortage of ideas of where to take them for fun and frolic. Below, Savage’s favorite places to romp freely while enjoying the Bay Area’s most beautiful spots.

Flickr: MaryCSalome

FORT FUNSTON. As one of the family’s go-to places in the city, Savage relies on Fort Funston for guaranteed fun and makes the trek there at least once a week. “Watching the handgliders take off is awesome,” Savage says. “And if you feel like going to the beach, there’s a nice little access walk, which is great for both humans and dogs.” The best place to park is in the lot, just off of Skyline Boulevard.

Flickr: 50-Phi

STERN GROVE. Best known for its summer music festivals, Stern Grove is one of Savage’s favorite city parks, a lush, green escape that was one of the first places he visited when he came to San Francisco in 1988. “It’s beautiful, with the lake and the ducks,” he says. Dog owners love Pine Lake as a spot to let their dogs run free, off-leash. And on any given weekend, Savage says there are hundreds of dog owners for their breeds’ specific meetups.

GLEN CANYON PARK. “I can’t believe a park so amazing exists just five minutes away from the busiest part of the city,” Savage says of Glen Canyon Park. “It’s this amazing little wilderness oasis.” In the summers, especially, Savage says the canyon turns into one of the most verdant places in San Francisco, so much so that it’s hard to get through the vegetation. “Savage takes his kids and his dogs down to the end of the main paved section to a dirt path that they all scramble up along. “It’s a super rugged little path, and there’s a secret rope swing that only kids know about,” he says. The Savage crew love to walk all along the different paths and climb along the rocks. “Everyone gets worn out,” he says.

-Tina Barseghian

Best Dog-Friendly Hikes Around the Bay

Updated: June 1, 2014

Deb Zambetti

Here in the Bay Area, we’re blessed with enviable natural beauty, and we love to take advantage of it by hiking all around trails that wind through gorgeous landscapes and seascapes. Unfortunately for dog owners, access to some of these great hikes is restricted because of leash laws, and off-leash options are few.

In fact, you can start a great hike in Marin that allows dogs (on leash), but because the trail crosses from county to state park to national park to water district lands and back again, you might find yourself suddenly on a stretch that isn’t canine-friendly at all. But one mile later, you and Fido are on safe ground again. On top of that, you have environmental threats – ticks in Marin, rattlesnakes on the peninsula, heat exhaustion in the East Bay, poison oak everywhere. Very literally, pick your poison.

What dog-owners look for and have a hard time finding are dog-legal hikes interesting for both human and canine and that don’t require a lot of doggy management (e.g. ticks, poorly maintained trails with hard to avoid poison oak, blistering sun without cover, etc.). Sometimes we want to spend all day on the hiking adventure, but sometimes we just want to give it a morning. This creates a complex Venn diagram with a very narrow ultimate overlap section. And frankly, it can take a lot of research – between word of mouth, online searches and studying various trail books – to find good long, interesting, dog-friendly hikes.

But all is not lost! This is Northern California after all, with endless trails – some a hop, skip, and a bridge away; some tucked in the middle of suburbia. If you’re new to hiking with a pooch around here, start with one of these doggy-friendliest hikes from around the Bay – including all-day adventures that take you far afield, to more easily accessible jaunts almost in your backyard, and all with great views. Dogs are allowed on all these trails, but check for specific leash laws.

NORTH BAY

The Bolinas Ridge Trail near Point Reyes offers a two- to 20-mile hike (out and back) with spectacular views of Point Reyes and Tomales Bay. Pick up the trail on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, just before you hit Olema, and head south until you’re tired, or hit the Bolinas-Fairfax Road, then turn around. When you’re back to the car, mosey up to the teeny tiny towns of Olema or Point Reyes Station for great food (Marin Sun Farm Café, Bovine Bakery, Tomales Bay Foods with Cowgirl Creamery, … yum!), and rest your paws with a picnic and people watching (weekends attract all kinds of bicyclists in fancy spandex).

EAST BAY

Flickr:JDNX

Wildcat Canyon, tucked behind scenic East Richmond Heights and San Pablo, looks like it goes on forever. Take the intersecting series of trails for a six- to eight-mile loop. Wildcat Creek Trail to Belgium Trail to San Pablo Ridge (and then onward where ever you fancy) guarantees views that get better and better with each rolling hill until you see from the Bay Bridge to north of Mt. Tamalpais. After a chug up a pretty major incline, you’re rewarded with views north almost to Benicia. A tip on finding the right entrance: Don’t go to the Tilden side, which does not allow dogs at all. You want to go to the northwest entrance on Park Street. When you turn onto Park Street, go past what looks like the obvious entrance (this path will take you to a ton of picnic tables and play areas for kids) and continue up the street to the Alvarado Staging Area. This entrance takes you to a parking lot and the Wildcat Creek trailhead.

PENINSULA

Flickr:Jenstr181

Sweeney Ridge is part of the Golden Gate Parks Conservancy, and you can access the trail from a two different trailheads, depending on your mood. Want an easy, mostly paved hill to the Nike Missile site? Enter from the west on Sneath Lane off of Highway 280. Head south at the restroom to Portola Gate (nothing special but a nice walk) before you turn north to the missile site. After you check out the remnants of missile control, which is mostly covered in graffiti, continue north to Mori Trail, which cuts west and drops down to the ocean (it’s a long way down and a steep, loose descent, but tempting if you have the time), or savor the view and then head back whence you came. Alternatively, if you’re looking to punish your glutes, start Sweeney Ridge Trail from the north at Skyline College and climb a veritable stairway to heaven – if the fog is thick, you’ll think you’ve accidentally ascended straight into the clouds; if it’s a clear day, the views of the Pacific Ocean to Mt. Tamalpais are ethereal. After you catch your breath at the top, continue south to the Nike Missile site (and onward to Portola Gate) turn around for a lovely downhill return. (Oh, you can still catch Mori Trail from this side – just hang a right when you crest the top of Sweeney Ridge – and you can easily spend the rest of the day on your couch without any guilt).

SOUTH BAY

The Tahoe Guy

High above Los Gatos in the Sierra Azul Open Space Preserve, the Kennedy-Limekiln-Priest Rock trails connect for a thoroughly enjoyable loop that offers sweet views to the Bay. You can enter the Sierra Azul area a few different ways. I prefer to skip the Lexington Reservoir trailhead and start off of Kennedy Road on the Kennedy Trail. It may just be my imagination, but this feels less congested and the mountain bikers seem more accommodating. If you complete the full loop, it’s several miles (13.8 according to the map) , which makes it worth the trek for a daylong getaway from the north and east sides of the bay. Then you can pop into picturesque Los Gatos for a lazy coffee or lunch.

GENERAL TIPS

It’s always a good idea to bring water for your pooch. In fact, leave an extra bottle in the car, just in case.

  • Be prepared to pick up and potentially pack out poop (pay attention for poop rules as they differ from place to place).
  • If you see another hiker with a dog coming your way and they’re looking suspiciously at your canine BFF, don’t be shy about letting them know well ahead of time if your dog is friendly or not. This way you can both either relax or take control of your animals for harmlessly passing by on the trail.
  • Keep Princess from charging ahead and pushing other hikers out of her way (i.e. don’t give hikers without dogs a reason to hate you and the rest of us).

– By Deb Zambetti