There are a whole crop of wine books out right now. Here is my guide to the current harvest:

For the Oenophile
Anthony Dias Blue’s Pocket Guide to Wine
If you don’t know what oenophile means, this book is probably not for you. It is less a guide to wines, than a guide to wineries. Divided by region, the author actually recommends only a handful of wines in several price categories. Those wishing to survey a regions wineries at a glance may find it handy.

For the Francophile
The Wines of France
I have to say I love this book. It is an easy to navigate guide to the wines of France written in an accessible and unpretentious style. First thing you will notice is that it uses colored tabs to make perusing a region a snap. The crib sheet feature at the beginning of each chapter lists Must Trys, Smart Buys, and Safe Houses. Whether you are new to French wine or a connoisseur this book will help you sort through the wineries, the wines, the price ranges and recent vintages.

For the Novice
The Simple and Savvy Wine Guide
Wine can be intimidating. Several authors have attempted to demystify wines and write guide books “for the rest of us”. Unfortunately for those who know a bit about wine, the style of this book may feel a bit too dumbed down. For example one of the chapters in this book is Wines by Mood, here you’ll find categories like “Girl’s Night In: Pinks, Bubbles & Sweeties” and “Bathtub Whites”. Get the picture?

For the Foodie
What to Drink with What you Eat
This book is one of my favorites, it take a unique approach to pairing wines, and other beverages with food. You can look up the wine and see what it pairs with or look up the food. Either way you slice it, this is an enthusiastic no-nonsense book that will encourage you to experiment and enjoy. And really isn’t that what wine should be all about anyway?

Head over to Cooking with Amy for my review of Jay McInerney’s latest book on wine, A Hedonist in the Cellar

Here at Bay Area Bites, we believe in food, everyday. Eating food, thinking about food, writing about food, reading about food. Food is a daily thing, except perhaps for the occasional fast. Personally I’ve never understood why newspapers don’t feel the same way. I mean, there’s a daily sports section, a daily weather section, etc. I don’t think I’m alone in believing that food is a more compelling read than either of those subjects!

The funny thing is that although there may not be a daily food section in the paper, food is in the news just about every day. Last week, for example, there was a story about two German men who broke into a supermarket and only stole cake. It sounds like a Saturday Night Live episode, but it really happened. Personally I know how those robbers felt. There are times I would love to break into the Original Swenson’s just up the block from my apartment.

What other food stories are there in a typical day? In addition to the German cake robbers there was also a story about an American company buying a Tequila company in Mexico. Another story featured food prices being cut in a university canteen in China. From Australia came a story about an Iraqi food-for-oil scandal. Meanwhile stateside the city of Tucson was reportedly cracking down on illegitimate food vendors.

If I was a newspaper editor, food would definitely get more coverage. Instead of food stories getting tucked away in the business section, the health section and the real estate section, the food section would run eveyday. Though it is possible that people might complain, what with the sports section almost completely preoccupied with concession offerings and beer reportage. Hot dog, anyone?

Anyone who has eaten out lately will have discovered that sake is not just for sushi bars anymore. Sake menus have gotten longer and longer at Japanese restaurants but other restauranteurs have found that sake also pairs well with eclectic offerings from barbeque to pasta. If you want to learn more about sake, in addition to the book Sake, A Modern Guide which we reviewed earlier in the year, a sake tasting is the way to go.

So how do you taste sake? Like most tastings you can easily get overwhelmed without a strategy. First and foremost, all the typical things you do at a wine tasting apply, notice how the sake pours, look at it, smell it and taste it. It’s helpful to drink sakes in a specific order, Beau Timken, owner of the only sake store in the country, True Sake suggests starting with the least polished sakes, junmai/honjozo 70% and moving on to the most milled sakes, dai ginjo 50%. Try the unfiltered style nigori, taru or cedar sake and aged sakes last. What are the categories of sake from least polished to most polished? Junmai, junmai ginjo, junmai dai ginjo, honjozo, dai ginjo.

Sake can be divided into several categories, fragrant, light and smooth, rich and finally aged and mature. Consider determining which of these categories you enjoy the most so you can focus on it.

The Joy of Sake event takes place tomorrow, at Moscone West from 6 – 8:30 pm. It is a premier opportunity to taste and enjoy sake. Over 250 sakes will be featured and there will be appetizers from 16 local restaurants such as Hog Island Oyster, Memphis Minnie’s and Roy’s. Tickets are $70 and are available online. Next week we will share highlights of the tasting.

Title: Publisher of Culinary Muse and Cocoa Tutor
Hometown: San Leandro, CA

1. What happens on your Chocolate & Knitting tour?
We start off at a knitting store and take a lesson that lasts about an hour, then we have a lesson on how to taste chocolate, then we go for lunch. After lunch we stop at some gourmet shops that happen to sell really nice chocolate then we visit another knitting store and the afternoon ends at the Ferry Building where we visit Recchiuti and Scharffen Berger.

I try to book a minimum of two people, often a group of friends sign up together, or knitting groups, it’s always people who are able to take an afternoon off since the tour doesn’t run on the weekends. So far only women have signed up but men make some of the best knitters so I think it’s only a matter of time before they start coming along too.

2. How did you come up with the combination of chocolate and knitting?
I was getting this wonderful feeling from knitting, a meditative state, not quite euphoria but it reminded me of the feeling I got when I would eat really great chocolate. And I realized they were both things that people were absolutely passionate about and there was a way to marry the two.

3. How would you recommend that someone tastes chocolate?
I would suggest going to someplace like Cost Plus and getting a 60 or 65% chocolate from three different manufacturers and tasting each one, maybe El Rey, Guittard, Scharffen Berger or Valrhona. That way you can learn what you like.

4. What are your favorite chocolates and places to shop for chocolate?
I like Charles Chocolates, they do an amazing Mojito chocolate. I also really enjoy Guittard Bittersweet 72% bar. I buy chocolate at Cheese Plus on Polk St and also at Chocolate Covered on 24th St. When it comes to pairing chocolate and wine, I like Essensia with Green & Black’s white chocolate, or a good quality dark chocolate with a fruity pinot noir.

5. What’s next for the tours?
Neighborhood culinary tours, including gourmet cheese shops, wine shops, a neighborhood restaurant that only locals know about, some bargain shops, and tasting at each place along the way, of course. I’ll also be teaching a chocolate and port pairing class at the Cheese School of San Francisco in October.

It’s the height of summer. But it’s not to late to brush up on your grilling techniques. Come to think of it, it’s never too late. From the multitude of grilling books, three are really smokin’ hot.

1. Grilling: Exciting International Flavors from the World’s Premier Culinary College
Possibly the mother of all grilling books. You’ll find more than 175 recipes from all over the world. This is a book that does not skimp on the vegetable recipes either, some tempting examples include Grilled Radicchio Salad and Grilled Shitake Mushrooms with Soy-Sesame Glaze. As one would expect from the Culinary Institute of America, all the instructions are clear and easy to follow. From Beer Can Chicken to Naan, it’s likely to be in here. Can’t find the manual for your grill? No problem, this book covers just about every type of grill and even has a chart for different kinds of woods to use for grilling. There are gorgeous photos to boot.

2. Asian Grill: Great Recipes, Bold Flavors
If you’ve spent any time in Asia, there’s a good chance you’ve tried some street food that was grilled. Satays, teriyaki, barbecue chicken, five spice marinated duck, there is plenty to choose from here. But the book has much more than grilling recipes, there are condiments like Thai Basil and Lemon Relish and Fresh Tomato Chutney, in addition to dressings, salads, fruit and vegetable recipes and even some desserts and drinks to cool you down. As author Connie Trang says, “Grilling is the perfect way to cook Asian ingredients, especially if you like to experiment with new flavor combinations”. Amen, sister.

3. Killer Ribs: Mouthwatering Recipe from North America’s Best Rib Joints
There is always some debate about which foods are truly “American”. As much as I enjoy hot dogs and hamburgers, I would suggest considering spareribs as the ultimate American food. Personally I’d chose spareribs over filet mignon ANYDAY. And the quest for the tastiest ones is something of a national obsession. Whether you are a novice or just trying to perfect your recipe, this is a great book. It’s filled with dry rubs, spice mixes, glazes, sauces, marinades and tips for how to achieve rib perfection from rib joints all over the US and our friendly neighbors to the North. Consider this your secret playbook. More? It’s spiral bound making it even easier to cook from.

Anyone who has ever been seduced by the exotic visions of Bali and the Spice Islands or has travelled to a foreign country and returned profoundly changed will appreciate the cookbook Cradle of Flavor: Home Cooking from the Spice Islands of Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore (W.W.Norton, 2006). Author James Oseland’s life was similarly changed during art school, when a summer vacation to Indonesia marked the beginning of more than twenty years exploring the culture, languages and food of the region. Cradle of Flavor is his homage to those countries and a fine introduction to their cuisine. In the book you’ll learn the differences in the food of various regions such as West Sumatra, East Java, and Malacca as well as how they are connected.

The cookbook includes 100 authentic recipes from Dutch-influenced buttery spice cake and cookie recipes, to Malaysian satays, stir-frys, creamy coconut curries and crunchy vegetable salads. Because the cuisine is still unfamiliar to most Americans, Oseland introduces readers to unusual ingredients such as palm vinegar, lemon basil and sweet soybean paste with descriptions and photos. He also explains key cooking techniques such as making flavoring pastes, slow-braised rendangs and piquant sambals. The recipes have been adapted to take into account the limitations of American kitchens and Oseland shows how to accomplish dishes from the region at home using common appliances such as a food processor and a typical range of pots and pans from non-stick to dutch ovens. While the focus is on easy to manage recipes, resources are provided for finding exotic ingredients and even substitutions for some of the more hard-to-find ones.

This is not a book for a beginning cook, but someone who perhaps has taken on Chinese or Thai cooking at home and is ready to branch out. The recipe instructions are meticulously detailed to help ensure success, although I would have appreciated a few more illustrations in addition to the photographs. The whole book is thoroughly researched and detailed and sections dedicated to where and how to shop are expanded into what to look for when buying produce and how to best store spices. The book inspired me to seek out ingredients I had never used before such as candlenuts, though I will heed his advice not to eat them raw.

Ultimately Cradle of Flavor is much more than a cookbook, it’s a beautifully written and sensual memoir from someone who has embraced the culture of the Spice Islands wholeheartedly. You will be encouraged to use all of your senses in shopping, cooking and eating your way through this book. Be an armchair traveller and join Oseland on shopping excursions, ocean voyages and cooking lessons with his adopted Indonesian family and friends.

Lemongrass and Shallot Sambal
Sambal Serai
(Bali, Indonesia)

Makes about 1/3 cup
1 thick stalk fresh lemongrass
2 fresh red or green Thai chiles, stemmed and very finely chopped
2 shallots (about 1 1/2 ounces total) finely chopped
1 tablespoon peanut oil
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1. Cut off the hard, brown bottom end and the bristly, greenish top of the lemongrass stalk, which will leave you with a pale white-and-lilac piece about 5 inches long. Discard the 2 or 3 tough outer layers. Slice the lemongrass very thinly crosswise, then chop the slices as finely as you can–it should be the consistency of sand. Using a very sharp knife will help you enormously. Transfer the lemongrass to a bowl. Make sure that the chiles and shallots are chopped just as finely. Add the chiles, shallots, oil, lime juice, and salt to the bowl. Stir well to combine. Taste for salt, and add a pinch more if needed.

2. Transfer the sambal to a small bowl for guests to spoon from directly, or place in small individual bowls. Let rest for 10 minutes before eating to allow the flavors to meld.

Note: A sambal is a condiment to be served with other dishes, Oseland suggests pairing this sambal with dishes that have lemongrass in them, and with dishes such as Green Beans with Coconut Milk, Pan-Seared Tamarind Tuna, various chicken dishes or a tofu and vegetable stew.

This is one of my all-time favorite pictures of any that I’ve ever taken. I call it Ave Maria, or the singing bass. The tags say bar de ligne or line-caught sea bass.

My second stage (stazh) or internship in France was cooking on a lobster boat in a military port town in Brittany which is the northwest corner of France that juts out into the Atlantic ocean. The boat was grounded at one end of a beautiful beach, Plage du Moulin Blanc, though I never saw any white windmills, with the marina or Port de la Plaisance on the other side.

Ma Petite Folie, a lobster boat on Plage du Moulin Blanc

I originally thought I’d be cooking at another restaurant, La Fleur de Sel, a more upscale, fine dining restaurant rather than this beast of a boat. I was initially very disappointed but within a few days I came to love that bateau aptly named Ma Petite Folie – my little madness – and cherished my time there. I learned all about fish and every day I scaled, gutted, filleted, skinned and cleaned fish. I was up to my elbows in fish guts and my hands soon looked like a litter of kittens had used them as scratching posts.

Stingray or skate, raie in French

I didn’t start out cutting up fish but rather vegetables. The first week I chopped and chopped and chopped carrots, fennel and leeks, over and over and over. I was dying to gets my hands on the fish but that took some proving to do. I was scrolling through some old emails I sent home when I was working on the lobster boat and came across this entry.

Yours truly cutting up fish! A far cry from my cube in the valley looking out on the Target parking lot.

Bonjour mes amis! A quick story I am dying to share with y’all about my day today. It’s just so cool and I want to shout it from the rooftops but that would no doubt arouse the gendarmes (local police) here so sending via email will have to suffice.

Carralet. Their bright orange spots are so vibrant and a dramatic contrast to their stark white bellies.

TODAY WAS A GREAT DAY! Jacques the sous-chef let me cut up fish today! I cut a few up for the first time the other day and as I was cutting (or more like butchering) the first fish, Jacques walked by and said “Mon dieu (my god)!” and not in a good way. So he patiently showed me how to do it and I had to ask him a few more times to show me. I got through it but it was painful for all of us, especially the fish! I figured any career opportunities at Fisherman’s Wharf were now out the window, or porthole as the case may be.

Dorade. We used this for carpaccio drizzled with a little lemon olive oil.

So this morning I was once again chopping carrots and Jacques was next to me filleting fish. I asked him if I could help him and he said “maybe tomorrow, we’re very busy”. I politely replied, “I can’t learn it if I never do it. I know I’m slow but I’ll never get fast if I never get the opportunity to practice.” And he replied, “You’re right, you’re right. Ok here!” and he dumped about twenty Dorade into the sink and said “Go ahead!” YEAH! I cut them up, packed them in ice and put them in the walk-in. It took me a while but I loved it! It was gross and slimy, as they weren’t gutted but I loved it! He scraped the scales off and I filleted them! A very cool day!!!

Lieu, or pollack in English

Tonight we arrived at 6pm and Jacques was in a cranky mood. He barked, “Laura, you cut up the fish tonight.” I jumped up, “Merci!” He said, “No merci (Don’t thank me!). I need twenety Lieu and four Barbue by 7pm” and he walked away scowling. I asked him where they were and he pointed to the walk-in. I asked him to show me what they look like and he rolled his eyes, stomped over to the walk-in, pulled out the fish, and threw them into the sink with disgust. I’m thinking, “Oh great (not really what I said), he’s already annoyed with me and there is no way I’m going to finish all these fish in less than an hour! Damn (not really what I said)!

John Dory, or St Pierre in French.

So I started cutting them one at a time, methodically, patiently, as quickly as possible, not daring to look at my watch. I cut the last fish, cleaned my station, and only then did I look at my watch. 6:55pm! Yann walked by and said, looking very surprised, “Excellent, Laura (ex-say-LONT lo-RAH)!” I WAS SO EXCITED! I DID IT! 🙂 I couldn’t believe it! I cranked through all those fish! Granted, it wasn’t the best fillet job ever done but it was passable and I got the job done! I was so proud of myself! I asked Jacques if he didn’t think I could do it. He replied very seriously, “No, of course I thought you could do it.” I laughed, “Well that’s good because I didn’t think I could do it!” We had a good chuckle and the rest of the night I walked a few feet off the ground. When I left, Jacques winked, “Laura, tomorrow, you and me, we cut up fish.” YEAH! I proved myself! Finally! What a great feeling! I could finally exhale.

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This is another fabulous recipe from my flatmate, John. This is perfect for a hot summer day when you are craving protein but can’t bare the thought of eating something hot. I usually make it early in the morning before it gets too hot out, then I can enjoy it for lunch or dinner that evening.

Saumon Froid au Basilic – Chilled Basil Salmon

4 pieces salmon, approx 125 to 150 grams each
4 tbsp butter
1-2 cups dry white wine, depending on size of pan
1 lemon, thinly sliced
4 tbsp dry basil or 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
1 cup heavy cream

1. Heat the oven to 400F/200C/6.
2. Butter the pan with 1-2 tbsp and coat with a layer of dried or fresh chopped basil
3. Lay out salmon on top of the basil
4. Add wine to 2/3 up the side of the salmon
5. Top with salt and pepper, basil, lemon slices
6. Poach for 10 minutes
7. Remove the salmon to another plate, cover with plastic wrap and chill
8. Save 1/4 cup of the liquid in a small sauce pan
9. Add a lot of basil (1 tbsp/person) and 1-2 tbsp butter
10. Reduce slowly on low heat, stirring occasionally.
11. Increase heat to high, add heavy cream and whisk.
12. Turn down and reduce for 15 minutes.
13. Pour into a bowl and chill.
14. When the salmon and sauce have both chilled completely, plate the salmon. Stir the butter sauce until it’s a creamy consistency and spoon a tablespoon over the salmon.

Bon Appetit!

Roast chicken is the Holy Grail of cooking. Cooks everywhere are on the eternal quest for that crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside, perfect bird. There are those who swear by Judy Rodgers’ Zuni Roast Chicken with Bread Salad, others prefer Thomas Kellers’ “Mon Poulet Rôti” or Mark Bittman’s method. While I do have a favorite roast chicken recipe, I am always curious to see how others get the job done. So it was the Crispy Roast Chicken recipe in The New California Cook (Chronicle Books, 392 pages, $22.95) that convinced me to give the book a try.

I will admit, upon first glance, this book did not thrill me. Sidebars on appreciating avocados? How to use balsamic vinegar? Risotto tips? Is this 2006 or 1986? Despite claims that this version has been revamped, many of the recipes seem just a bit tired. Broiled Orange Roughy with Salsa Glaze, Rack of Lamb with Mint Crust, Two Mushroom Barley Risotto and Tricolor Vegetable Saute sound frighteningly like what was served at my college cafeteria. So, enough about the book, how was the chicken I hear you asking. First let’s check out the recipe:

Crispy Roast Chicken
serves 4

Marinade
2 tablespoons whole-grain Dijon mustard
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
3 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

One 3-1/2 to 4-1/2 pound fryer, rinsed and patted dry
1 onion, sliced
2 carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
2 cups Chicken Stock

1. To make the marinade, whisk together the ingredients in a small mixing bowl. Taste for seasoning. Um what is the marinade supposed to taste like?

2. Place the chicken in a large, nonaluminum mixing bowl. Why? Starting around the main body cavity, carefully slip your hand under the skin, being sure not to tear it. (you may need to use gloves if you have long fingernails.) Pat the marinade under the skin and all over the bird on both sides on top of the skin. Huh? I know what this means but it’s poorly written. Cover the chicken and marinate for at least a few minutes and up to 8 hours in the refrigerator. Really? A few minutes? When is that ever enough time to marinate a chicken? Shrimp maybe but not chicken.

3. Preheat the oven to 425 degree. Place the chicken, breast side up, on a rack in a roasting pan or on a vertical roaster. I have a vertical roaster, but assuming most people don’t, I used my roasting rack. Sprinkle the onions an carrots in the bottom of the pan and add one cup of stock. Excuse me, but shouldn’t the vegetables go in first? Otherwise they sit on top of the rack, not the bottom of the pan. Roast the chicken for about 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until the juices run clear when a thigh is pierced with a knife. I hate this kind of instruction. I want the chicken to be juicy, why pierce it with a knife when I could just use a thermometer? Halfway through the cooking, add the remaining 1 cup of chicken stock to keep the bottom of the pan from scorching. Well that information ought to have come before you are taking the bird out of the oven! Let the chicken rest for 10 minutes before carving. Carve the chicken and arrange on a serving platter. Scrape up the juices and vegetables and pour them over the chicken pieces And ruin the crispy skin? Noooo! Serve immediately.

I followed the instructions as closely as possible. First off, I marinated the bird for about an hour. I can’t speak for the chicken, but let me say my hands smelled lovely from the marinade. Surprisingly sweet and delicious. I’m almost positive it had nothing to do with my hand soap. As for the chicken, after about 20 minute the wing tips started getting so dark I covered them in foil to prevent them from burning. Because there are eight grams of sugar in the marinade (from the balsamic vinegar) roasting at 425 degrees is asking for trouble. At 30 minutes the skin was already very brown so I repeated my foil treatment.

I checked the temperature with a thermometer at 45 minutes and it was 143 degrees. Not done. At one hour the temperature was 168 degrees. Still not done. My bird was 3-3/4 pounds, I can only imagine how long a 4-1/2 pound bird would take. After an hour and thirteen minutes the bird was done (180 degrees).The vegetables the author so eagerly wants you to enjoy were both soggy and shriveled. The juice in the pan so sweet from carrots I threw it away.

I think I can usually tell when a recipe is good and when it’s a stinker just by reading it, but every so often I follow the instructions to see how it turns out anyway. The verdict?

Instructions: Confusing

Cooking time: Longer than indicated

Appearance: Poor. The chicken was too dark on top, too pale on the bottom.

Taste: Ok. It wasn’t the slightest bit crispy nor was it juicy. It was flavorful and moist. But not the best roast chicken I’ve ever cooked. Not by a long shot. I think I’ll stick with Nigella’s version, thank you very much.

If you have talent, now’s the time to use it. If you can write, paint or cook you might be a winner. Even if you don’t feel like entering one of the contests, you can still participate by reading other people’s stories, judging artwork or trying a recipe. Read on…

Whenever you need cheering up you bake bread. Your first stop on vacation is the local grocery store. You once used chocolate syrup instead of maple syrup on pancakes and now it’s your family tradition. You may have seen Culinary Confessions, now check out Confessions of a Foodie, a contest sponsored by Copia. Submit your story in text, audio or video and you could win one of several fabulous prizes including a stay at a Napa spa or shopping spree at Copia’s shop. Deadline is July 31st. If you don’t feel like confessing you can also check out the Foodie File to see what others have shared.

Sweet Riot chocolate covered cocoa nibs are a good way to get your chocolate on. Chocolate is that antioxidant-laden substance that also happens to taste great. The chocolate comes in 50, 65 or 70 flavors, corresponding to the percentage of cocoa, 70 is 70% dark chocolate, etc. Packaged in nifty tins, the package can be reused or sent back to the company to be recycled.

In addition to the addictive nature of the product, Sweet Riot acts as a platform for emerging artists. How so? Each package features original artwork for three to four months. The artist is chosen by customers. So far the art has been bold, cheery and colorful. You can vote on artwork to be featured or submit your artwork for consideration. The next deadline is September 15th. Sweet Riot is sold at the MoMA Design stores and Whole Foods . 1-ounce tins are $4.99.

It’s finally Summer. You have watermelon and beer in the fridge. How about cooking with the beer instead of drinking it? If you have a great recipe that uses beer or think you can come up with one, perhaps you should consider the Cook With Beer Challenge. Beer is the only required ingredient and recipes may be submitted in any dish category. Grand prize is a trip for two to a resort in Mexico. You can enter by mail, fax, email or online, but the deadline is July 31st. The contest sponsor has offered up some recipes using beer to get you inspired.

Title: General Manager, Prather Ranch Meat Co.
Hometown: Norwell, Massachusetts, here since 1994

Where does Prather Ranch meat come from?
Prather Ranch is Northeast of Mount Shasta. We have our own USDA inspected slaughterhouse, packaging facility, everything. We only process Prather Ranch cattle, which is certified humane. It’s a small facility. The beef is dry aged then cut and packaged and sent to the market. The lamb is raised for us in the Willamette valley, certified humane, 100% grass fed and finished. The buffalo, technically American bison comes from central Oregon, 100% grass fed and finished. Pork is raised in the Capay valley, we raise heritage breeds.

What is certified humane all about?
Certified humane means that animals are raised like people would want them to be raised, that they’ve had an idyllic farm life.

A non-profit third party called Humane Farm Animal care, has put together stringent standards based on work that they’ve done with the ASPCA and Phd’s in animal science to make sure the animals have had enough room to live in, have eaten a natural diet, and had stress levels that are controlled. From birth to end of life the animals life is looked at to make sure it’s been treated humanely. It’s the product that is certified humane.

What’s meant by terms like dry-aged and grass-fed?
Dry aging is a process where a piece of meat is aged for a minimum of two weeks to develop the flavor and tenderness. Beef is hung in a cold humidity controlled meat locker at around 34 degrees so you lose about 10% water weight. Like a grape turns to a raisin, you’re left with a more intensely flavored product.

There is no definition for grass fed–no third party certifying it. Our American bison and lamb is grass fed. Our beef is grass fed for the majority of it’s life, then finished on a mixture of barley, rice and alfalfa, which allows for more intramuscular fat and marbling and that gives the beef a “beefier” flavor. One hundred percent grass fed can be a little too lean and can be inconsistent because grass is inconsistent, when it’s dry the beef may not be as good.

Which cuts of meat are best, worst and most unusual?
The most overrated cut of meat is the filet mignon, by far. It’s the tenderest, and it’s expensive because there’s not that much of it, but the flavor is lacking. In restaurants it’s always sauced because it’s relatively flavorless.

Personally I like a rib-eye, it has the best combination of flavor and tenderness. I salt and pepper it and grill it.

As far as more unusual cuts of meat, we’ve been getting more and more requests for beef cheeks, hangar steaks, and pork shoulder. We’ll be selling lard soon and organic beef jerky.

Who have been the most surprising visitors to the market?
Late last year Prince Charles and the Duchess visited the market. We talked about the breeds of animals since they are based on British breeds, Angus, Hereford, and cross breeds. We talked about British pig breeds. The Prince raises animals and wanted to know about what kind of premium we could charge for non-mainstream products, heritage products. He was more down-to-earth than you would expect and he knew what he was talking about when it came to beef and pork. Especially since he’s a vegetarian!

For my take on Certified Humane, visit Cooking with Amy.

What do Fergus Henderson and Charles Phan have in common? Both were trained as architects before turning to the culinary arts. I’m sure if you look, you’ll find more cooks and chefs with a background in or even just a love for architecture. There are some definite commonalities between the fields. But The Lever House Cookbook published by Clarkson Potter is the first cookbook I have come across that focuses on both.

A spectacular all-glass skyscraper, the Lever House is a sleek and sophisticated building. The cookbook does not give it short shrift. The building is documented in photos and in an essay. Nor does the book ignore the philosophy of the chef, Dan Silverman. Despite the fact that this is a “restaurant cookbook” it is clearly meant for the home cook. The food philosophy section serves as a pep talk, giving you the confidence to take on the recipes. The use of seasonings and vinaigrettes is covered in detail, both of which are crucial to becoming a great home cook or chef.

Many restaurant cookbooks, while beautiful are not particularly suited to the home cook. Not so with The Lever House Cookbook. Many of the recipes have 10 – 12 ingredients, and quite a few have even less. The recipes are not for beginners, but they are not complicated nor do they require a sous chef or preparation that begins ten hours before serving a meal. The recipes are mostly confined to one page, with gorgeous photos to help you with plating. The meticulous instructions are aided by seasoned co-author Joann Cianciulli.

There are some luxury ingredients used, such as foie gras, lobster and truffles but there are also many straight-forward recipes inspired by seasonal ingredients. I can’t wait to try the Cranberry-Pecan Tart in the fall and also the latest object of my affection, pork belly, the Lever version is braised with soubise, a rich white sauce enriched with butter. This book would make a fabulous gift for fans of Dan Silverman’s cooking, New York or just great food.

Roasted Asparagus Salad with Shaved Manchego and Marcona Almonds
serves 4

20 large asparagus spears (about 11/2 bunches)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 pound baby arugula, rinsed and dried
1/2 cup marcona almonds, lightly toasted
1/4 cup Sherry-Dijon Vinaigrette
(recipe follows)
4 ounces Manchego cheese, shaved

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Cut or snap off about 1 inch of the tough bottom stem of the asparagus and discard. Set aside 4 of the asparagus spears. With the remaining 16 spears, use a vegetable peeler and shave off the outer skin of the lower half of the remaining stalk, keeping the tops intact. Put these spears in a mixing bowl and coat with the oil; season with salt and pepper. Spread out the asparagus in a single layer on a sheet pan. Roast the asparagus for 10 minutes, until tender but not brown. Reserve the roasted asparagus at room temperature.

Shave the remaining raw asparagus spears into long ribbons using a vegetable peeler or mandolin. Fill a mixing bowl with ice water and soak the asparagus ribbons in it for about 5 minutes to crisp them up Put the shaved asparagus in a salad spinner or pat with paper towels to dry well.

In a large bowl, combine the arugula, shave asparagus ribbons, and almonds; season with salt and pepper. Dress the salad with about 1/4 cup of the sherry-Dijon vinaigrette (salads are best well dressed, where each leaf is filmed with vinaigrette, not drenched) Toss the ingredients gently using your hands to combine.

To serve, arrange 4 spears of the roasted asparagus on each of 4 plates. Put a large handful of the salad on top, trying to equally distribute the arugula and the goodies for each portion.

Sprinkle the shaved Manchego on top of the salads and finish off with final grind of black pepper.

Sherry-Dijon Vinaigrette
makes 3/4 cup

2 large shallots, finely diced
Generous pinch of kosher salt
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Generous pinch of freshly ground black pepper

To prepare a quick vinaigrette for the asparagus, put the diced shallots in a medium mixing bowl and sprinkle with a healthy pinch of salt. Let them sit for 5 minutes to allow the salt to draw out the water from the shallots; this will ultimately help hold together the vinaigrette. Add the mustard and vinegar and whisk with the shallots to combine. Slowly add the oil in a stream while whisking to emulsify the vinaigrette. Add a pinch of ground black pepper to balance it out. Keep any leftover vinaigrette covered in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

The Bay Area is blessed with a fantastic variety of wonderful Asian food. With each wave of immigrants unfamiliar cuisines have made their way into our delicious community and become old friends. Some of the best restaurants and chefs in the Bay Area are cooking Asian food and some of them are coming together for the East West Eats dinner.

I talked with Charles Phan of Slanted Door to get his thoughts about local Asian food and out what it’s like to participate in this dinner along with chefs Robert Lam of Butterfly, Hung Le of Three Seasons, Peter Pahk of Silverado, Kirk Webber of Cafe Kati, Anjan and Emily Mitra of Dosa, Mutsumi Takhara of Slanted Door and Chris Yeo of Straits. The East West Eats dinner takes place June 1st, register to attend by May 25th, here.

What trends are you seeing in Asian food in the Bay Area?
Fusion has come and gone. I never really agreed with that anyway but I see more and more specialization. In the Chinese community people are doing more regional cuisines and are interested in Shanghai or Szechuan food etc. The whole school of regional cuisine is going to continue to grow–it’s no different than like what A16 is doing making Neapolitan style food.

At my restaurant I’m taking old ideas and building them with local ingredients and sensibility–like cooking beef medium rare, same methodology same recipe but not medium well or using local vegetables but stir frying them the same way you would in Vietnam. Also using oysters and raw fish a Vietnamese style here we use fish sauce shallot and lime instead the Japanese style with wasabi.

What’s been the response to the cooking kits sold at Out the Door?
It’s been great. The response has been phenomenal. We sold out super fast on Valentine’s day. I was surprised! A lot of people had the idea to create a romantic dinner at home. People are using them in different ways than we expected such as for parties, romantic meals etc.

We’ve held back but when we move to a central kitchen commissary there will be more choices. Maybe even “vlogs” video clips to learn how to cook with fresh ingredients all packed fresh daily.

Are Western palettes adapting to Vietnamese cuisine or is Vietnamese cuisine adapting to Western palettes?
Combination of both. I’m surprised everyday at what people buy at the restaurant. At the same time a classic dish from Vietnam is never sold here, like Hainan chicken never sells, and I’ve tried a dozen times. Eating boiled chicken just won’t catch on. But I’m doing a new dumpling that texturally is very unique and it is selling. People’s tastes are changing rapidly, I sell lots of whole fish and people used to send it back everyday to have the head removed. I used to have fish returned every day now I haven’t had one returned in over a year.

What will the food be like at the East West Eats dinner?
The food is always better at these events than a sit down meal because it’s prepared right there. Everybody is doing different things, everybody will showcase their speciality. It’s a way for people to get to know the chefs. It’s a good way to sample. You get to see several restaurants at one time.

What’s it like working with the other chefs at an event like this?
I do this all the time, you learn something new since most of us don’t do catering, it’s a challenge. I get to see my colleagues and give back to community. It’s fun, mostly I wouldn’t see these chefs except at these events.

Want to know more about the East West Eats event? Head over to Cooking with Amy.

Title: Founder Chinablue and author of Modern Asian Flavors, a Taste of Shanghai
Hometown: Shanghai, now lives in Sausalito

1. What are “modern Asian flavors” and “a taste of Shanghai” all about?
For years I’ve cooked my family’s recipes for my friends and people really like the Shanghainese flavors. Shanghai was a true melting pot, with Europeans, Americans, Indians, so the flavor is much more European style. The flavors are in the sauces that come from a specific dish. In modern Asian cuisine, if you don’t want to cook Chinese you don’t have to, use the flavors and sauces anyway you like to.

2. Why did you decide to share your Chinablue recipes?
I wanted to take Shanghainese flavor profiles and bring them into American households. People don’t cook anymore, they prepare, mostly the recipe are for dishes anyone can make. The sauces in the book aren’t exactly the same as the ones from Chinablue.

3. How does Shanghai cuisine compare to other styles of Chinese food?
A few things, there’s a sweetness to everything, it’s a cleaner type of cuisine not using heavy sauces like hoisin, a complexity to the flavor that is never overbearing. Enhancing a dish but never overpowering it. More of a “dish” from a visual perception. When you’re eating shrimp, you’re eating shrimp, there isn’t too much else in the dish. It’s not the country style “one-pot” type of stir-fry. It’s much more refined, sophisticated for the wealthier city people.

4. Other than your house, where can people find great Shanghainese food in San Francisco?
Shanghai 1930 is good, if a little diluted, I ate at Old Shanghai on Geary with my mom and it was good.

5. You left Shanghai when you were still a child, what is it like today?
It’s like San Francisco, Dallas, Los Angeles, New York, Chicago all in one city and growing ten times faster. It’s becoming the gateway to culture like Paris or New York.

1. Be self-righteous about what you eat
2. Always clean your plate
3. Banish butter
4. Eat only crappy fast food
5. Refuse to ever eat expensive food
6. Undercook your food
7. Overcook your food
8. Eat while driving in your car
9. Feel guilty about what you eat
10. Make others feel bad about what they eat
11. Eat too much
12. Don’t eat enough
13. Skip eating carbs
14. Eat only carbs
15. Insist on skipping dessert
16. Worry too much about cleanliness
17. Pay no attention to where your food comes from
18. Pay too much attention to where your food comes from
19. Talk on the phone while you eat
20. Be a picky eater
21. Refuse to share
22. Never eat with your friends or family
23. Dine with screaming children
24. Eat only balanced meals
25. Refuse to eat doughnuts