Tapestry Suppers Serve Up Immigrants’ Stories with Good Food and Company
The Pho Cookbook: Interview with Andrea Nguyen
Finding Oakland's Pho Ao Sen
BassPro Shops: Shop, Hunt, & Eat Local
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Or this \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2017/deaf-chefs-compete/\">profile of a Deaf chef and culinary arts instructor\u003c/a> at the California School for the Deaf.\r\n\r\nTo see my visual/edible take on the world, follow me on Instagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/annamindess/\">annamindess. \u003c/a>\r\n\r\nFor more of my stories: visit Contently \u003ca href=\"http://annamindess.contently.com\">annamindess.contently.com\u003c/a>","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["author"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Anna Mindess | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/annamindess"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_116500":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_116500","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"116500","score":null,"sort":[1491502180000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"tapestry-suppers-serve-up-immigrants-stories-with-good-food-and-company","title":"Tapestry Suppers Serve Up Immigrants’ Stories with Good Food and Company","publishDate":1491502180,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>A lovely garden party. Inviting platters of delicate shrimp rolls and crusty \u003cem>banh mi\u003c/em> sandwiches. Groups of people in lively conversations, getting to know each other. But there is another powerful thread running through this recent South Bay get-together, brought into focus as hostess Thoa van Seventer shares her story of leaving Vietnam and suddenly chokes up with emotion. When American troops pulled out of Vietnam in 1975, Thoa was 17 years old. Six years later, her father succumbed to despair and passed away. Thoa, her mother and sisters remained in Saigon under Viet Cong rule until 1985 when the former French Ambassador to Vietnam sponsored her family for French residency. But at that point, Thoa had a hard choice to make since she had just received a marriage proposal from a chief military officer's son in Vietnam.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116557\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116557\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new.jpg\" alt=\"Thoa van Seventer shares her story with guests at the first Tapestry Supper.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1513\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-160x126.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-800x630.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-768x605.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-1020x804.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-1180x930.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-960x757.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-240x189.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-375x296.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-520x410.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thoa van Seventer shares her story with guests at the first Tapestry Supper. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Her voice breaks as she explains to the assembled guests, “I told him ‘No, thank you’ because freedom is everything; freedom is more important than a broken heart. I made a hard choice to leave everything behind.” Thoa and her family had few possessions when they arrived in Paris in the freezing cold winter of 1985. “We came to France as beggars,” she says. “When we landed, we didn’t know if we would be welcome. But I felt like a child, who was lovingly adopted by the French people. They helped us a lot. I am so grateful to the country that adopted me.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When I see pictures of the refugees now,” she adds, “I feel respect for the refugees and for the people who help them.” And with that, Thoa serves a tray of flavorful crab and asparagus soup to her guests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116558\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116558\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new.jpg\" alt=\"Crab and asparagus soup, a traditional dish for Vietnamese weddings.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-160x160.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-768x768.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-240x240.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-375x375.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-520x520.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crab and asparagus soup, a traditional dish for Vietnamese weddings. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This moving encounter is from the first in a series of “Tapestry Suppers” organized by Danielle Tsi, a freelance photographer and owner of the blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.beyondtheplate.net/\">Beyond the Plate\u003c/a>. Her goal is to get people together to share their experiences and break down barriers by showcasing immigrant stories and cuisines. “I want to bring people together to connect offline, instead of just getting sucked into the digital black hole of news,” says Tsi, who emigrated from Singapore ten years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116559\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116559\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new.jpg\" alt=\"Danielle Tsi, founder of Tapestry Suppers and owner of Beyond the Plate blog.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1536\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-160x128.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-800x640.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-768x614.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-1020x816.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-1180x944.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-960x768.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-240x192.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-375x300.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-520x416.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Danielle Tsi, founder of Tapestry Suppers and owner of Beyond the Plate blog. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“As an immigrant myself who is not a citizen and can’t vote, what can I do? Give money to causes. But I want to do more. There is so much culture and diversity in the Bay Area,” says Tsi. “In Singapore, enjoying food together is a big unifier across all the different cultural groups there. People often underestimate the power of food—besides feeding and nurturing it can also to foster empathy. And food is a way to chip away at the public’s ignorance.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tsi combined the ideas of people sharing food, learning about immigrants and raising money for good causes. Each get-together features a different immigrant home chef and raise money for a cause of their choice. (This one raised $350 for \u003ca href=\"http://www.rescue.org\">The International Rescue Committee\u003c/a>.) Her idea seems to resonate in these unsettled times. The first event sold out in four days, which may partly be due to the fact that Thoa van Seventer is a beloved yoga instructor. Many of the 30 guests who gathered at her home in Palo Alto were her students and fellow yogis, including Danielle Tsi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Thoa’s oldest sister left Viet Nam two years after the communists took over in 1975, she, her younger sisters and mother did not get out until ten years later. In the intervening years, her mother advised: “you better learn something” and arranged for her daughters to take cooking lessons. The guests at the Tapestry Supper lunch enjoyed the benefits of her mother’s forethought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116560\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116560\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new.jpg\" alt=\"Shrimp rolls and banh mi sandwich made by Thoa van Seventer.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shrimp rolls and banh mi sandwich made by Thoa van Seventer. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The dishes Thoa prepared were familiar, but the execution exquisite. They drew high praise from the other Vietnamese guests. The rice paper on the delicate shrimp rolls was perfectly tender, the filling held a surprise bite of fresh pineapple. The varied ingredients in the banh mi sandwich combined in harmony, and the crab and asparagus soup, a traditional dish for weddings, was sublime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thoa confides that she is puzzled and saddened by a friend of hers, who is also Vietnamese, but has a completely different attitude to the refugees who are desperately trying to escape persecution right now. The friend states she doesn’t want them here in the U.S. “She says that we should just take care of ourselves and our country and keep everything we can,” Thoa reports. She is dumbstruck by this lack of empathy, knowing full well that the refugees are not coming by choice, but face a stark choice: leave or die.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116561\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116561\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new.jpg\" alt=\"Anh Hodges also has a story to share.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1367\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-800x570.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-768x547.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-1020x726.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-1180x840.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-960x684.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-240x171.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-375x267.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-520x370.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anh Hodges also has a story to share. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One of the guests, Anh Hodges, shared with her tablemates her own harrowing story of numerous thwarted attempts to escape Vietnam throughout her childhood. In 1978, four brothers and one sister in her family of 11 children did escape to avoid the Cambodian draft. But when Anh and her other sisters repeatedly tried to leave they were often caught, sometimes beaten, or sent to prison for several months. Her mother would pay money to men who were supposed to help them escape by boat, but took advantage of them and just kept their money.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The family would not give up. After 13 failed attempts, in 1989, they finally made it out by plane. Sponsored by one of her older brothers, Anh stayed in Los Angeles for a year and then came up north. In Vietnam, she had been a high school teacher of English and math. She wanted to continue her studies, but there was no money for that. So she attended beauty school instead, became a hairstylist and eventually owned her own salon in San Jose for 20 years, with 20 employees. A friend at the table tells of Ahn’s contributions: donating the produce from her organic garden to a local school; her volunteering at the local hospital; and other good deeds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116562\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116562\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new.jpg\" alt=\"The point of Tapestry Suppers is for people to get to know each other and share their stories.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1429\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-160x119.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-800x595.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-768x572.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-1020x759.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-1180x878.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-960x715.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-240x179.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-375x279.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-520x387.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The point of Tapestry Suppers is for people to get to know each other and share their stories. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The host of the next Tapestry Supper, April Chou, left Burma in 1977 at age 15, as an immigrant. She says, “when the military junta took over in 1962, no one had freedom, no one dared to speak up, as often relatives and friends ended up in jail. They shut down all private businesses and food was often rationed. Schools, especially universities, were shut down regularly due to student uprisings. Then came the massacre in 1988. Some of my old friends survived by living in the jungle. It’s sad to see Burma become one of the poorest countries with the lowest GDP despite its rich natural resources.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116563\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116563\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new.jpg\" alt=\"April Chou will be the host of the next Tapestry Supper and cook food from her native Burma.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1537\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-160x128.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-800x640.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-768x615.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-1020x817.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-1180x945.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-960x769.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-240x192.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-375x300.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-520x416.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">April Chou will be the host of the next Tapestry Supper and cook food from her native Burma. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After many years working in high tech, Chou got more involved with Ashtanga yoga and Vipassana mediation, became vegan, switched gears and attended \u003ca href=\"https://www.baumancollege.org/\">Bauman College\u003c/a>’s Natural Chef training program. She is still finalizing the menu for April 23, and says she will probably make crudités and dips, tea leaf salad, coconut rice, and chicken/vegetable curry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next Tapestry Supper will be held in Sunnyvale on April 23. Tickets will be available for purchase starting Monday April 10 at 9am. Monthly dinners will follow through the summer, with different chefs. May's dinner will be an Iranian meal and Tsi is exploring possibility of featuring Tanzanian, Indian and Syrian cuisines. She does not yet have a website and advises that the best way to stay informed about future events is to sign up for her \u003ca href=\"http://eepurl.com/cFMhND\">newsletter and mailing list\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Tsi states \u003ca href=\"http://www.beyondtheplate.net/2017/03/tapestry-suppers-immigrant-stories/\">on her blog\u003c/a> \"At a time of strong anti-immigrant sentiment in the U.S., our gatherings are the antidote to this zeitgeist by bringing people around the table to share a meal and learn about the multitude of cultures that make the Bay Area such a vibrant place to live. We believe that a society is made stronger by the diversity of its parts, and that the best way to learn about cultures foreign to us is through their cuisine.\"\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Tapestry Suppers pair immigrant home chefs with guests who want to learn about their experiences, culture and cuisine. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1492041876,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":17,"wordCount":1478},"headData":{"title":"Tapestry Suppers Serve Up Immigrants’ Stories with Good Food and Company | KQED","description":"Tapestry Suppers pair immigrant home chefs with guests who want to learn about their experiences, culture and cuisine. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"116500 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=116500","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/04/06/tapestry-suppers-serve-up-immigrants-stories-with-good-food-and-company/","disqusTitle":"Tapestry Suppers Serve Up Immigrants’ Stories with Good Food and Company","source":"Pop-Ups, Dinner Parties","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/restaurants-and-bars/","path":"/bayareabites/116500/tapestry-suppers-serve-up-immigrants-stories-with-good-food-and-company","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>A lovely garden party. Inviting platters of delicate shrimp rolls and crusty \u003cem>banh mi\u003c/em> sandwiches. Groups of people in lively conversations, getting to know each other. But there is another powerful thread running through this recent South Bay get-together, brought into focus as hostess Thoa van Seventer shares her story of leaving Vietnam and suddenly chokes up with emotion. When American troops pulled out of Vietnam in 1975, Thoa was 17 years old. Six years later, her father succumbed to despair and passed away. Thoa, her mother and sisters remained in Saigon under Viet Cong rule until 1985 when the former French Ambassador to Vietnam sponsored her family for French residency. But at that point, Thoa had a hard choice to make since she had just received a marriage proposal from a chief military officer's son in Vietnam.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116557\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116557\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new.jpg\" alt=\"Thoa van Seventer shares her story with guests at the first Tapestry Supper.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1513\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-160x126.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-800x630.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-768x605.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-1020x804.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-1180x930.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-960x757.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-240x189.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-375x296.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-520x410.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thoa van Seventer shares her story with guests at the first Tapestry Supper. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Her voice breaks as she explains to the assembled guests, “I told him ‘No, thank you’ because freedom is everything; freedom is more important than a broken heart. I made a hard choice to leave everything behind.” Thoa and her family had few possessions when they arrived in Paris in the freezing cold winter of 1985. “We came to France as beggars,” she says. “When we landed, we didn’t know if we would be welcome. But I felt like a child, who was lovingly adopted by the French people. They helped us a lot. I am so grateful to the country that adopted me.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When I see pictures of the refugees now,” she adds, “I feel respect for the refugees and for the people who help them.” And with that, Thoa serves a tray of flavorful crab and asparagus soup to her guests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116558\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116558\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new.jpg\" alt=\"Crab and asparagus soup, a traditional dish for Vietnamese weddings.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-160x160.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-768x768.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-240x240.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-375x375.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-520x520.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crab and asparagus soup, a traditional dish for Vietnamese weddings. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This moving encounter is from the first in a series of “Tapestry Suppers” organized by Danielle Tsi, a freelance photographer and owner of the blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.beyondtheplate.net/\">Beyond the Plate\u003c/a>. Her goal is to get people together to share their experiences and break down barriers by showcasing immigrant stories and cuisines. “I want to bring people together to connect offline, instead of just getting sucked into the digital black hole of news,” says Tsi, who emigrated from Singapore ten years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116559\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116559\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new.jpg\" alt=\"Danielle Tsi, founder of Tapestry Suppers and owner of Beyond the Plate blog.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1536\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-160x128.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-800x640.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-768x614.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-1020x816.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-1180x944.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-960x768.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-240x192.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-375x300.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-520x416.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Danielle Tsi, founder of Tapestry Suppers and owner of Beyond the Plate blog. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“As an immigrant myself who is not a citizen and can’t vote, what can I do? Give money to causes. But I want to do more. There is so much culture and diversity in the Bay Area,” says Tsi. “In Singapore, enjoying food together is a big unifier across all the different cultural groups there. People often underestimate the power of food—besides feeding and nurturing it can also to foster empathy. And food is a way to chip away at the public’s ignorance.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tsi combined the ideas of people sharing food, learning about immigrants and raising money for good causes. Each get-together features a different immigrant home chef and raise money for a cause of their choice. (This one raised $350 for \u003ca href=\"http://www.rescue.org\">The International Rescue Committee\u003c/a>.) Her idea seems to resonate in these unsettled times. The first event sold out in four days, which may partly be due to the fact that Thoa van Seventer is a beloved yoga instructor. Many of the 30 guests who gathered at her home in Palo Alto were her students and fellow yogis, including Danielle Tsi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Thoa’s oldest sister left Viet Nam two years after the communists took over in 1975, she, her younger sisters and mother did not get out until ten years later. In the intervening years, her mother advised: “you better learn something” and arranged for her daughters to take cooking lessons. The guests at the Tapestry Supper lunch enjoyed the benefits of her mother’s forethought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116560\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116560\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new.jpg\" alt=\"Shrimp rolls and banh mi sandwich made by Thoa van Seventer.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shrimp rolls and banh mi sandwich made by Thoa van Seventer. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The dishes Thoa prepared were familiar, but the execution exquisite. They drew high praise from the other Vietnamese guests. The rice paper on the delicate shrimp rolls was perfectly tender, the filling held a surprise bite of fresh pineapple. The varied ingredients in the banh mi sandwich combined in harmony, and the crab and asparagus soup, a traditional dish for weddings, was sublime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thoa confides that she is puzzled and saddened by a friend of hers, who is also Vietnamese, but has a completely different attitude to the refugees who are desperately trying to escape persecution right now. The friend states she doesn’t want them here in the U.S. “She says that we should just take care of ourselves and our country and keep everything we can,” Thoa reports. She is dumbstruck by this lack of empathy, knowing full well that the refugees are not coming by choice, but face a stark choice: leave or die.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116561\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116561\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new.jpg\" alt=\"Anh Hodges also has a story to share.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1367\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-800x570.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-768x547.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-1020x726.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-1180x840.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-960x684.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-240x171.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-375x267.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-520x370.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anh Hodges also has a story to share. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One of the guests, Anh Hodges, shared with her tablemates her own harrowing story of numerous thwarted attempts to escape Vietnam throughout her childhood. In 1978, four brothers and one sister in her family of 11 children did escape to avoid the Cambodian draft. But when Anh and her other sisters repeatedly tried to leave they were often caught, sometimes beaten, or sent to prison for several months. Her mother would pay money to men who were supposed to help them escape by boat, but took advantage of them and just kept their money.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The family would not give up. After 13 failed attempts, in 1989, they finally made it out by plane. Sponsored by one of her older brothers, Anh stayed in Los Angeles for a year and then came up north. In Vietnam, she had been a high school teacher of English and math. She wanted to continue her studies, but there was no money for that. So she attended beauty school instead, became a hairstylist and eventually owned her own salon in San Jose for 20 years, with 20 employees. A friend at the table tells of Ahn’s contributions: donating the produce from her organic garden to a local school; her volunteering at the local hospital; and other good deeds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116562\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116562\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new.jpg\" alt=\"The point of Tapestry Suppers is for people to get to know each other and share their stories.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1429\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-160x119.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-800x595.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-768x572.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-1020x759.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-1180x878.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-960x715.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-240x179.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-375x279.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-520x387.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The point of Tapestry Suppers is for people to get to know each other and share their stories. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The host of the next Tapestry Supper, April Chou, left Burma in 1977 at age 15, as an immigrant. She says, “when the military junta took over in 1962, no one had freedom, no one dared to speak up, as often relatives and friends ended up in jail. They shut down all private businesses and food was often rationed. Schools, especially universities, were shut down regularly due to student uprisings. Then came the massacre in 1988. Some of my old friends survived by living in the jungle. It’s sad to see Burma become one of the poorest countries with the lowest GDP despite its rich natural resources.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116563\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116563\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new.jpg\" alt=\"April Chou will be the host of the next Tapestry Supper and cook food from her native Burma.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1537\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-160x128.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-800x640.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-768x615.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-1020x817.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-1180x945.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-960x769.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-240x192.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-375x300.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-520x416.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">April Chou will be the host of the next Tapestry Supper and cook food from her native Burma. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After many years working in high tech, Chou got more involved with Ashtanga yoga and Vipassana mediation, became vegan, switched gears and attended \u003ca href=\"https://www.baumancollege.org/\">Bauman College\u003c/a>’s Natural Chef training program. She is still finalizing the menu for April 23, and says she will probably make crudités and dips, tea leaf salad, coconut rice, and chicken/vegetable curry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next Tapestry Supper will be held in Sunnyvale on April 23. Tickets will be available for purchase starting Monday April 10 at 9am. Monthly dinners will follow through the summer, with different chefs. May's dinner will be an Iranian meal and Tsi is exploring possibility of featuring Tanzanian, Indian and Syrian cuisines. She does not yet have a website and advises that the best way to stay informed about future events is to sign up for her \u003ca href=\"http://eepurl.com/cFMhND\">newsletter and mailing list\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Tsi states \u003ca href=\"http://www.beyondtheplate.net/2017/03/tapestry-suppers-immigrant-stories/\">on her blog\u003c/a> \"At a time of strong anti-immigrant sentiment in the U.S., our gatherings are the antidote to this zeitgeist by bringing people around the table to share a meal and learn about the multitude of cultures that make the Bay Area such a vibrant place to live. We believe that a society is made stronger by the diversity of its parts, and that the best way to learn about cultures foreign to us is through their cuisine.\"\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/116500/tapestry-suppers-serve-up-immigrants-stories-with-good-food-and-company","authors":["5283"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_1865","bayareabites_2332","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_91"],"tags":["bayareabites_15806","bayareabites_14117","bayareabites_15803","bayareabites_452","bayareabites_12834","bayareabites_15805","bayareabites_15802","bayareabites_15804","bayareabites_10793","bayareabites_10756","bayareabites_10985","bayareabites_13581","bayareabites_1130"],"featImg":"bayareabites_116556","label":"source_bayareabites_116500"},"bayareabites_115191":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_115191","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"115191","score":null,"sort":[1487016333000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-pho-cookbook-interview-with-andrea-nguyen","title":"The Pho Cookbook: Interview with Andrea Nguyen","publishDate":1487016333,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>In Vietnam, when Andrea Nguyen was five years old, she impressed her parents--and the owners of their local pho shop--with her noodle-soup dexterity. Chopsticks in one hand, soup spoon in the other, she scooped and slurped like a pro, emptying her bowl of aromatic beef broth, slippery rice noodles, and slices of meat with an ear-to-ear grin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115249\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-1020x1530.jpg\" alt=\"Andrea Nguyen, author of The Pho Cookbook\" width=\"640\" height=\"960\" class=\"size-large wp-image-115249\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-520x780.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andrea Nguyen, author of The Pho Cookbook \u003ccite>(Genevieve Pierson )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A year later, in 1975, Nguyen's family left Vietnam as refugees, finding a new home in Orange County. \"We gained freedom,\" said Nguyen, \"but we lost pho shops.\" The shops, restaurants, and markets that would become \u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com/food-wine/flavors-of-the-west/guide-little-saigon\" target=\"_blank\">Little Saigon\u003c/a> were still some years away. Instead, homemade pho became a Sunday-morning family staple as her mother traded tips with other new immigrants, learning how to reproduce the tastes of home with unfamiliar ingredients in a new place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Decades later, that soup-slurping girl has become one of the Bay Area's best-known and best-respected experts on Asian home cooking. She's a popular cooking teacher and the author of numerous cookbooks, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/160774533X/kqedorg-20\">The Banh Mi Handbook\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1580089755/kqedorg-20\">Asian Dumplings\u003c/a>. Her many fans follow her writings (and travels) on her website, \u003ca href=\"http://www.vietworldkitchen.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Viet World Kitchen\u003c/a> and she's become the go-to Asian cooking guide at the high-tech DIY cooking site ChefSteps, with recipes for Shanghai soup dumplings and a post-Thanksgiving \u003ca href=\"https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/leftover-turkey-make-pho-with-andrea-nguyen\" target=\"_blank\">turkey pho\u003c/a>. She added a thoughtful, measured voice to the clamor over cultural appropriation in cuisine with an NPR essay \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/09/13/dont-call-it-the-new-ramen-why-pho-is-central-to-vietnamese-identity/\" target=\"_blank\">Don't Call It the New Ramen: Why Pho is Central to Vietnamese Identity\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Years of teaching have given her a sixth sense of where and how a home cook might stumble in navigating unfamiliar ingredients and tricky techniques, and so her books are filled with clear, easy-to-follow explanations and foolproof troubleshooting. And for those who want to know the why as much as the how, she's an eager and diligent researcher and storyteller. Her books are a valuable resource for anyone interested in the complex social and geographical history of deceptively simple dishes we might take for granted in cosmopolitan, diversely populated cities like San Francisco, Oakland, or San Jose. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her latest book, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Pho-Cookbook-Adventurous-Vietnams-Favorite/dp/1607749580/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487015227&sr=8-1&keywords=pho+cookbook\">The Pho Cookbook\u003c/a>, was released by Ten Speed Press on February 7, 2017. We caught up with Nyugen by phone from her home near Santa Cruz. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>When did you first start working on The Pho Cookbook? And why pho, now?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Andrea Nguyen:\u003c/strong> The Banh Mi Handbook came out in 2014, so I probably started talking about this one in early 2015. I'd been teaching pho classes in person and online at \u003ca href=\"https://www.craftsy.com/cooking/classes/vietnamese-classics-pho-noodles-beyond/35320\" target=\"_blank\">Craftsy\u003c/a> for a long time, and a lot of my students kept saying that I should write a book about pho. My first reaction was \"Why?\" I had two recipes that I taught; I didn't think I had much to say. But my publisher, Ten Speed Press, suggested that I think about it; they were confident that I'd have enough to say. I realized I'd been researching pho for a while, and also thinking and writing about my relationship to it. Especially after we left Vietnam when I was six years old, my family didn't have many possessions. We just had our memories. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>When were you finally able to go back to Vietnam?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> I've been going back since 2003. One of the first things I had on my first trip back to Hanoi was pho. Things were still sleepy there then. We went directly from the airport to a tiny little pho place I'd read about somewhere. It was very small, definitely locals only, with low wooden benches. Everyone had all their belongings on their laps, because there was no place to put them. You just leaned over your bowl and ate. My husband was the only white person there, and I was obviously a foreigner too, but two older men on the benches across from us kept nodding and smiling, approving of my husband eating pho. We have pho nearly every morning when we go back. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115452\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho.jpg\" alt=\"The Pho Cookbook. Saigon-style beef pho.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115452\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pho Cookbook. Saigon-style beef pho. \u003ccite>(John Lee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Is the pho you make at home different from what's served in Vietnam now?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> In 2008, I had a chance to go back to Vietnam on a press trip. I really wanted to go to the Metropole Hotel in Hanoi. There are two women who have been cooking there since the 1960s. I was able to go into the kitchen and meet them, and they told me they had read my book [\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Into-Vietnamese-Kitchen-Treasured-Foodways/dp/1580086659\" target=\"_blank\">Into the Vietnamese Kitchen\u003c/a>] and that I had to stop using yellow onion in my pho! They told me only to use shallots, and not to put sugar in my broth [a South Vietnamese tradition] if I wanted to make a true Hanoi pho. But when my mother came here, shallots were hard to find and too expensive; yellow onions were what she could get. She would get on the phone, and she and her friends would trade tips and secrets; they gathered intel and that's how they put dishes together. So this book is really a combination of American and Vietnamese recipes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Is pho evolving? I love how you describe certain flavors (and dishes) as \"pho-ish\" and how, as a cook, you know you've got it right--whether it's broth or a stir-fry or even a cocktail--when it has that certain \"pho-ish\" quality, that essence or spirit of pho.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> It's a very creative dish, it keeps evolving. I want people to become part of the pho story. It started 100 years ago; now, in Los Angeles, there are pho cocktails and pho burritos. In Brooklyn, I've had pho soup dumplings and pho beef dip sandwiches. In Hanoi, I've seen fried pho, where the noodles were batter-coated and deep-fried. You can get brown rice noodles here, but I've seen them in Vietnamese supermarkets, too. There are dried noodles, instant pho powders, instant noodle kits. It's not fixed, it's a very modern dish that people can plug into at all levels and cook, whether or not they want to go to Asian markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>You have a seafood pho, and several vegetarian and vegan versions, too, which seems very appropriate to the Bay Area.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> When my mother heard about my seafood pho, she said \"I hope you never put THAT in the book!\" But it's delicious, and I've had lobster pho, pho with all kinds of seafood. And Vietnam has tons of Buddhists [who don't eat meat], and they need pho too! People need to push their pho-rizons. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Your book taught me that the word \"pho\" means both the traditional brothy soup and the rice noodles themselves. The book includes numerous non-soup recipes, from noodle-based stir-fries to rice-noodle rolls, as well as some inventive salads and dipping sauces. In Vietnam, pho is mostly a breakfast or quick lunch dish; in fact, in the book, you tell a story of making a special trip to Nam Dinh, the birthplace of pho, but missing out because by 9AM, when you arrived, all the pho shops had sold out for the day. Did you have to adjust the book to match how American cooks (and eaters) approach this dish?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> I found that, during my teaching, I got a lot of questions after the class from students saying \"I want to show my friends how I'm really good at making pho now. What else can I serve?\" They were asking how they could entertain with pho. So I added snacks, appetizers, Vietnamese coffee, even cocktails. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>What's the audience for this book? Who's going to read it?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> People who are really interested in making pho! I think it starts with people who have eaten it in neighborhood restaurants, who liked it and wanted to figure it out. It's beef noodle soup; it can't be that complicated. Over the years, I've talked to thousands of people who ask me questions about Asian cooking, about sourcing ingredients, about making food that's unfamiliar. There's so much intimidation about this. I try to take a certain Home Depot approach, like \"You can do it, and I can help!\" As a cookbook author, you're really just there to coach people along. If they're happy, I'm thrilled. The Quick Chicken Pho is a great gateway recipe. Then there's the \"real\" restaurant-style recipe, with homemade broth, and the \"middle path\" of the pressure-cooker recipes, for people who don't have a lot of time but still want to DIY. I hope it makes pho accessible to a lot of different people. In Vietnam, it's a food for everyone. \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Events:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>On Feb. 16, Andrea Nguyen will be signing books at \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a>, 3885a Church St., San Francisco. 6:30-7:30pm, free.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>On Mar 8, Andrea Nguyen will be doing a cooking demonstration and tasting at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.jccsf.org/arts-ideas/andrea-nguyen/\" target=\"_blank\">JJCC SF\u003c/a>, 3200 California St, San Francisco. 7pm, general admission tickets $18.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115251\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Pho-Cookbook_Quick-Chicken-Pho-e1487012131406.jpg\" alt=\"Berkeley, CA – March 22-25, 2016: The Pho Cookbook. Quick Chix Pho. \" width=\"2000\" height=\"2667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115251\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pho Cookbook. Quick Chix Pho. \u003ccite>(Photo by John Lee. Copyright John Lee Pictures)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Quick Chicken Pho (phở gà nhanh)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Great for pho beginners, this recipe is also terrific for cooks in a hurry. It takes less than 45 minutes, during which you’ll doctor up store-bought broth so it says, “I’m pho-ish.” Choose a broth that tastes like chicken, such as Swanson brand, which is less fussed up and easy to manipulate. You need two 14.5-ounce (411 g) cans or one 32-ounce (907 ml) carton. Stocked at many supermarkets, La Baleine sea salt, Annie Chun pad Thai rice noodles, and Megachef fish sauce work well for this recipe. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>3⁄4-inch (2 cm) section fresh ginger\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 medium-large green onions\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 very small (.5 oz | 15 g) bunch cilantro sprigs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1⁄2 teaspoons coriander seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 whole clove\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 1⁄2 to 4 cups (840 ml to 1 l) low-sodium chicken broth\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cups (480 ml) water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 (6 to 8 oz | 180 to 225 g) boneless, skinless chicken breast or thigh\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>About 1⁄2 teaspoon fine sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>5 ounces (150 g) dried narrow flat rice noodles\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 to 3 teaspoons fish sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>About 1⁄2 teaspoon organic sugar, or 1 teaspoon maple syrup (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pepper (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Optional extras: Bean sprouts, chile slices, mint sprigs, Thai basil, hoisin, sriracha, or Ginger Lime Dipping Sauce (see Note below)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Peel then slice the ginger into 4 or 5 coins. Smack with the flat side of a knife or meat mallet; set aside. Thinly slice the green parts of the green onion to yield 2 to 3 tablespoons; set aside for garnish. Cut the leftover sections into pinkie-finger lengths, bruise, then add to the ginger.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Coarsely chop the leafy tops of the cilantro to yield 2 tablespoons; set aside for garnish. Set the remaining cilantro sprigs aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a 3- to 4-quart (3 to 4 l) pot, toast the coriander seeds and clove over medium heat until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the ginger and green onion sections. Stir for about 30 seconds, until aromatic. Slide the pot off heat, wait 15 seconds or so to briefly cool, then pour in the broth.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Return the pot to the burner, then add the water, cilantro sprigs, chicken, and salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat to gently simmer for 30 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While the broth simmers, soak the rice noodles in hot water until pliable and opaque. Drain, rinse, and set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>After 5 to 10 minutes of simmering, the chicken should be firm and cooked through (press on it and it should slightly yield). Transfer the chicken to a bowl, flush with cold water to arrest the cooking, then drain. Let cool, then cut or shred into bite-size pieces. Cover loosely to prevent drying.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>When the broth is done, pour it through a fine-mesh strainer positioned over a 2-quart (2 l) pot; line the strainer with muslin for superclear broth. Discard the solids. You should have about 4 cups (1 l). Season with fish sauce and sugar (or maple syrup), if needed, to create a strong savory-sweet note.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring the strained broth to a boil over high heat. Put the noodles in a noodle strainer or mesh sieve and dunk in the hot broth to heat and soften, 5 to 60 seconds. Lift the noodles from the pot and divide between the 2 bowls.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Lower the heat to keep the broth hot while you arrange the chicken on top of the noodles and garnish with the chopped green onion, cilantro, and a sprinkling of pepper. Taste and adjust the broth’s saltiness one last time. Return the broth to a boil and ladle into the bowls. Enjoy with any extras, if you like.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Notes:\u003c/strong> For a Ginger Lime Dipping sauce to dip the chicken into as you eat, combine 1 packed tablespoon peeled and finely chopped ginger, 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice, generous 1 tablespoon sugar, 1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce, and 1 teaspoon finely chopped seeded Fresno or jalapeño chile. Rest 15 minutes before serving. \u003c/p>\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted and reprinted with permission from The Pho Cookbook: Easy to Adventurous Recipes for Vietnam’s Favorite Soup and Noodles by Andrea Nguyen, copyright © 2017. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House LLC.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen digs into the joys of pho with Andrea Nguyen, author of The Pho Cookbook. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1487321387,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":25,"wordCount":2319},"headData":{"title":"The Pho Cookbook: Interview with Andrea Nguyen | KQED","description":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen digs into the joys of pho with Andrea Nguyen, author of The Pho Cookbook. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"115191 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=115191","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/02/13/the-pho-cookbook-interview-with-andrea-nguyen/","disqusTitle":"The Pho Cookbook: Interview with Andrea Nguyen","source":"Cookbooks","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/books-and-magazines/","path":"/bayareabites/115191/the-pho-cookbook-interview-with-andrea-nguyen","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In Vietnam, when Andrea Nguyen was five years old, she impressed her parents--and the owners of their local pho shop--with her noodle-soup dexterity. Chopsticks in one hand, soup spoon in the other, she scooped and slurped like a pro, emptying her bowl of aromatic beef broth, slippery rice noodles, and slices of meat with an ear-to-ear grin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115249\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-1020x1530.jpg\" alt=\"Andrea Nguyen, author of The Pho Cookbook\" width=\"640\" height=\"960\" class=\"size-large wp-image-115249\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-520x780.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andrea Nguyen, author of The Pho Cookbook \u003ccite>(Genevieve Pierson )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A year later, in 1975, Nguyen's family left Vietnam as refugees, finding a new home in Orange County. \"We gained freedom,\" said Nguyen, \"but we lost pho shops.\" The shops, restaurants, and markets that would become \u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com/food-wine/flavors-of-the-west/guide-little-saigon\" target=\"_blank\">Little Saigon\u003c/a> were still some years away. Instead, homemade pho became a Sunday-morning family staple as her mother traded tips with other new immigrants, learning how to reproduce the tastes of home with unfamiliar ingredients in a new place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Decades later, that soup-slurping girl has become one of the Bay Area's best-known and best-respected experts on Asian home cooking. She's a popular cooking teacher and the author of numerous cookbooks, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/160774533X/kqedorg-20\">The Banh Mi Handbook\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1580089755/kqedorg-20\">Asian Dumplings\u003c/a>. Her many fans follow her writings (and travels) on her website, \u003ca href=\"http://www.vietworldkitchen.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Viet World Kitchen\u003c/a> and she's become the go-to Asian cooking guide at the high-tech DIY cooking site ChefSteps, with recipes for Shanghai soup dumplings and a post-Thanksgiving \u003ca href=\"https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/leftover-turkey-make-pho-with-andrea-nguyen\" target=\"_blank\">turkey pho\u003c/a>. She added a thoughtful, measured voice to the clamor over cultural appropriation in cuisine with an NPR essay \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/09/13/dont-call-it-the-new-ramen-why-pho-is-central-to-vietnamese-identity/\" target=\"_blank\">Don't Call It the New Ramen: Why Pho is Central to Vietnamese Identity\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Years of teaching have given her a sixth sense of where and how a home cook might stumble in navigating unfamiliar ingredients and tricky techniques, and so her books are filled with clear, easy-to-follow explanations and foolproof troubleshooting. And for those who want to know the why as much as the how, she's an eager and diligent researcher and storyteller. Her books are a valuable resource for anyone interested in the complex social and geographical history of deceptively simple dishes we might take for granted in cosmopolitan, diversely populated cities like San Francisco, Oakland, or San Jose. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her latest book, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Pho-Cookbook-Adventurous-Vietnams-Favorite/dp/1607749580/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487015227&sr=8-1&keywords=pho+cookbook\">The Pho Cookbook\u003c/a>, was released by Ten Speed Press on February 7, 2017. We caught up with Nyugen by phone from her home near Santa Cruz. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>When did you first start working on The Pho Cookbook? And why pho, now?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Andrea Nguyen:\u003c/strong> The Banh Mi Handbook came out in 2014, so I probably started talking about this one in early 2015. I'd been teaching pho classes in person and online at \u003ca href=\"https://www.craftsy.com/cooking/classes/vietnamese-classics-pho-noodles-beyond/35320\" target=\"_blank\">Craftsy\u003c/a> for a long time, and a lot of my students kept saying that I should write a book about pho. My first reaction was \"Why?\" I had two recipes that I taught; I didn't think I had much to say. But my publisher, Ten Speed Press, suggested that I think about it; they were confident that I'd have enough to say. I realized I'd been researching pho for a while, and also thinking and writing about my relationship to it. Especially after we left Vietnam when I was six years old, my family didn't have many possessions. We just had our memories. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>When were you finally able to go back to Vietnam?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> I've been going back since 2003. One of the first things I had on my first trip back to Hanoi was pho. Things were still sleepy there then. We went directly from the airport to a tiny little pho place I'd read about somewhere. It was very small, definitely locals only, with low wooden benches. Everyone had all their belongings on their laps, because there was no place to put them. You just leaned over your bowl and ate. My husband was the only white person there, and I was obviously a foreigner too, but two older men on the benches across from us kept nodding and smiling, approving of my husband eating pho. We have pho nearly every morning when we go back. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115452\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho.jpg\" alt=\"The Pho Cookbook. Saigon-style beef pho.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115452\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pho Cookbook. Saigon-style beef pho. \u003ccite>(John Lee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Is the pho you make at home different from what's served in Vietnam now?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> In 2008, I had a chance to go back to Vietnam on a press trip. I really wanted to go to the Metropole Hotel in Hanoi. There are two women who have been cooking there since the 1960s. I was able to go into the kitchen and meet them, and they told me they had read my book [\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Into-Vietnamese-Kitchen-Treasured-Foodways/dp/1580086659\" target=\"_blank\">Into the Vietnamese Kitchen\u003c/a>] and that I had to stop using yellow onion in my pho! They told me only to use shallots, and not to put sugar in my broth [a South Vietnamese tradition] if I wanted to make a true Hanoi pho. But when my mother came here, shallots were hard to find and too expensive; yellow onions were what she could get. She would get on the phone, and she and her friends would trade tips and secrets; they gathered intel and that's how they put dishes together. So this book is really a combination of American and Vietnamese recipes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Is pho evolving? I love how you describe certain flavors (and dishes) as \"pho-ish\" and how, as a cook, you know you've got it right--whether it's broth or a stir-fry or even a cocktail--when it has that certain \"pho-ish\" quality, that essence or spirit of pho.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> It's a very creative dish, it keeps evolving. I want people to become part of the pho story. It started 100 years ago; now, in Los Angeles, there are pho cocktails and pho burritos. In Brooklyn, I've had pho soup dumplings and pho beef dip sandwiches. In Hanoi, I've seen fried pho, where the noodles were batter-coated and deep-fried. You can get brown rice noodles here, but I've seen them in Vietnamese supermarkets, too. There are dried noodles, instant pho powders, instant noodle kits. It's not fixed, it's a very modern dish that people can plug into at all levels and cook, whether or not they want to go to Asian markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>You have a seafood pho, and several vegetarian and vegan versions, too, which seems very appropriate to the Bay Area.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> When my mother heard about my seafood pho, she said \"I hope you never put THAT in the book!\" But it's delicious, and I've had lobster pho, pho with all kinds of seafood. And Vietnam has tons of Buddhists [who don't eat meat], and they need pho too! People need to push their pho-rizons. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Your book taught me that the word \"pho\" means both the traditional brothy soup and the rice noodles themselves. The book includes numerous non-soup recipes, from noodle-based stir-fries to rice-noodle rolls, as well as some inventive salads and dipping sauces. In Vietnam, pho is mostly a breakfast or quick lunch dish; in fact, in the book, you tell a story of making a special trip to Nam Dinh, the birthplace of pho, but missing out because by 9AM, when you arrived, all the pho shops had sold out for the day. Did you have to adjust the book to match how American cooks (and eaters) approach this dish?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> I found that, during my teaching, I got a lot of questions after the class from students saying \"I want to show my friends how I'm really good at making pho now. What else can I serve?\" They were asking how they could entertain with pho. So I added snacks, appetizers, Vietnamese coffee, even cocktails. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>What's the audience for this book? Who's going to read it?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> People who are really interested in making pho! I think it starts with people who have eaten it in neighborhood restaurants, who liked it and wanted to figure it out. It's beef noodle soup; it can't be that complicated. Over the years, I've talked to thousands of people who ask me questions about Asian cooking, about sourcing ingredients, about making food that's unfamiliar. There's so much intimidation about this. I try to take a certain Home Depot approach, like \"You can do it, and I can help!\" As a cookbook author, you're really just there to coach people along. If they're happy, I'm thrilled. The Quick Chicken Pho is a great gateway recipe. Then there's the \"real\" restaurant-style recipe, with homemade broth, and the \"middle path\" of the pressure-cooker recipes, for people who don't have a lot of time but still want to DIY. I hope it makes pho accessible to a lot of different people. In Vietnam, it's a food for everyone. \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Events:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>On Feb. 16, Andrea Nguyen will be signing books at \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a>, 3885a Church St., San Francisco. 6:30-7:30pm, free.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>On Mar 8, Andrea Nguyen will be doing a cooking demonstration and tasting at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.jccsf.org/arts-ideas/andrea-nguyen/\" target=\"_blank\">JJCC SF\u003c/a>, 3200 California St, San Francisco. 7pm, general admission tickets $18.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115251\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Pho-Cookbook_Quick-Chicken-Pho-e1487012131406.jpg\" alt=\"Berkeley, CA – March 22-25, 2016: The Pho Cookbook. Quick Chix Pho. \" width=\"2000\" height=\"2667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115251\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pho Cookbook. Quick Chix Pho. \u003ccite>(Photo by John Lee. Copyright John Lee Pictures)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Quick Chicken Pho (phở gà nhanh)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Great for pho beginners, this recipe is also terrific for cooks in a hurry. It takes less than 45 minutes, during which you’ll doctor up store-bought broth so it says, “I’m pho-ish.” Choose a broth that tastes like chicken, such as Swanson brand, which is less fussed up and easy to manipulate. You need two 14.5-ounce (411 g) cans or one 32-ounce (907 ml) carton. Stocked at many supermarkets, La Baleine sea salt, Annie Chun pad Thai rice noodles, and Megachef fish sauce work well for this recipe. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>3⁄4-inch (2 cm) section fresh ginger\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 medium-large green onions\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 very small (.5 oz | 15 g) bunch cilantro sprigs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1⁄2 teaspoons coriander seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 whole clove\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 1⁄2 to 4 cups (840 ml to 1 l) low-sodium chicken broth\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cups (480 ml) water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 (6 to 8 oz | 180 to 225 g) boneless, skinless chicken breast or thigh\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>About 1⁄2 teaspoon fine sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>5 ounces (150 g) dried narrow flat rice noodles\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 to 3 teaspoons fish sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>About 1⁄2 teaspoon organic sugar, or 1 teaspoon maple syrup (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pepper (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Optional extras: Bean sprouts, chile slices, mint sprigs, Thai basil, hoisin, sriracha, or Ginger Lime Dipping Sauce (see Note below)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Peel then slice the ginger into 4 or 5 coins. Smack with the flat side of a knife or meat mallet; set aside. Thinly slice the green parts of the green onion to yield 2 to 3 tablespoons; set aside for garnish. Cut the leftover sections into pinkie-finger lengths, bruise, then add to the ginger.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Coarsely chop the leafy tops of the cilantro to yield 2 tablespoons; set aside for garnish. Set the remaining cilantro sprigs aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a 3- to 4-quart (3 to 4 l) pot, toast the coriander seeds and clove over medium heat until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the ginger and green onion sections. Stir for about 30 seconds, until aromatic. Slide the pot off heat, wait 15 seconds or so to briefly cool, then pour in the broth.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Return the pot to the burner, then add the water, cilantro sprigs, chicken, and salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat to gently simmer for 30 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While the broth simmers, soak the rice noodles in hot water until pliable and opaque. Drain, rinse, and set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>After 5 to 10 minutes of simmering, the chicken should be firm and cooked through (press on it and it should slightly yield). Transfer the chicken to a bowl, flush with cold water to arrest the cooking, then drain. Let cool, then cut or shred into bite-size pieces. Cover loosely to prevent drying.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>When the broth is done, pour it through a fine-mesh strainer positioned over a 2-quart (2 l) pot; line the strainer with muslin for superclear broth. Discard the solids. You should have about 4 cups (1 l). Season with fish sauce and sugar (or maple syrup), if needed, to create a strong savory-sweet note.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring the strained broth to a boil over high heat. Put the noodles in a noodle strainer or mesh sieve and dunk in the hot broth to heat and soften, 5 to 60 seconds. Lift the noodles from the pot and divide between the 2 bowls.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Lower the heat to keep the broth hot while you arrange the chicken on top of the noodles and garnish with the chopped green onion, cilantro, and a sprinkling of pepper. Taste and adjust the broth’s saltiness one last time. Return the broth to a boil and ladle into the bowls. Enjoy with any extras, if you like.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Notes:\u003c/strong> For a Ginger Lime Dipping sauce to dip the chicken into as you eat, combine 1 packed tablespoon peeled and finely chopped ginger, 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice, generous 1 tablespoon sugar, 1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce, and 1 teaspoon finely chopped seeded Fresno or jalapeño chile. Rest 15 minutes before serving. \u003c/p>\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted and reprinted with permission from The Pho Cookbook: Easy to Adventurous Recipes for Vietnam’s Favorite Soup and Noodles by Andrea Nguyen, copyright © 2017. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House LLC.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/115191/the-pho-cookbook-interview-with-andrea-nguyen","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_1278","bayareabites_10756","bayareabites_1130"],"featImg":"bayareabites_115250","label":"source_bayareabites_115191"},"bayareabites_1322":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_1322","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"1322","score":null,"sort":[1217880369000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"finding-oaklands-pho-ao-sen","title":"Finding Oakland's Pho Ao Sen","publishDate":1217880369,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/phtoansen5.jpg\" alt=\"road closed\">\u003cbr>\n(\u003cem>Photo by brandondesigns\u003c/em>)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As summer reaches its August peak (yes, it's foggy this morning in San Francisco) and as families get desperately creative with their \u003ca href=\"http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/24859538/\">staycations\u003c/a>, I've been reminiscing about those old car trips of my youth: my mom hopelessly lost somewhere between Denver and St. Louis, my sister and I -- oblivious in the backseat -- singing \"Popeye, the Sailor Man!\" over and over and over and over, and our many stops at Church's Chicken and Taco Bell, the two places we were guaranteed to find spicy food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remember those days, long before Chowhound and Yelp, Google and Mapquest, when forays into new culinary terrain were truly crapshoots? (Cue up the old-timey nostalgia music...) To find good food in an unfamiliar town, you had to depend on three important tricks: Identifying well-fed locals with a keen sense of direction. Quickly judging a restaurant by the number and types of vehicles parked out front (or be strong enough to enter, scope out the menu and dining room, and then opt to leave a restaurant with absolutely no shame at all). And, most crucial of all, befriending taxi drivers and policemen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mom's Mad Skillz\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Twenty-five years ago my mom, still shy and still learning English, had her own bag of tricks. She'd stop at a phone booth (OMG--remember those!), heft up the dangling white pages from its metallic tether, and scan the family names for Trans, Nguyens, Lams, Les and Dos. Then she'd invest the quarter or two needed to call up fellow exiles, introduce herself as some stranger rolling through town, and then quickly get to the point: where can I find some good food in these parts?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She recently visited me here in California, and I was reminded of her treasure hunting skills. As one of the last people in this country who still don't have an email account, she depends on the old ways. After we picked her up from the Oakland airport, she wanted to stop for a bowl of pho. We scrambled, with our iPhones and our keyword searches, to come up with a place that would hold up to her standards. While we were still trying to locate a good signal, she pointed us over to a group of people who looked suspiciously Vietnamese standing on a corner of International Boulevard. She rolled down the window and asked them where to eat. They gestured to two pho houses nearby. She asked them point-blank: Which one is better? Without hesitating, they pointed to…Pho Ao Sen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And to the best bowl of pho I've enjoyed in a very long time. Yes, it's a dirty secret that San Francisco is severely lacking in this department. I've accepted mediocre noodles and, worse, lackluster broths as my penance for choosing not to live an hour south of here. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/phtoansen2.jpg\" alt=\"pho ao sen\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Whole Chicken\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since pho bo has entered the general lexicon, I won't waste space talking about the beef version. However, I would very much like to encourage you to try pho ga long trung non. Roughly translated, that means chicken and rice noodle soup with innards and young eggs. (Queasy eaters might want to skip the next paragraph.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you've ever butchered a chicken, you'll know that along the ovary duct one or two diminutive yolks are awaiting nature's application of egg whites and eggshells. And if you grew up with my mom, you'll also know that gizzards, livers and hearts are delicacies worth fighting over at the dinner table. Even more than a well-executed bowl of beef soup, I admire a restaurant that can create a deeply flavored chicken broth, poach high-quality firm yet tender chicken meat, and present the hallmarks of a freshly butchered chicken: a plate of organ meats and young eggs. Nothing goes to waste, and all the flavors and textures are richly balanced.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Ao Sen, along with an excellent bowl of pho bo, they've also perfected pho ga. If a plate of innards is not high on your list, order the plain bowl that comes simply with a plate of chicken meat on the bone. Both come with a ginger dipping sauce, whose secret ingredient is obviously chicken fat, so lovely that I ended up slurping it straight from my spoon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another wonderful thing about this Oakland outpost is that it opens at 8am every single day of the week. Since pho is a breakfast food, I've always been annoyed by the late opening times in the US. Ao Sen fills a long empty, much mourned gap in my comfort food lineup. Even its airy dining room reminded me of Vietnam, and the familiar fragrance of anise-infused broth that greeted us hit home immediately. Weakly brewed iced green tea, fish sauce on the table, and a straightforward menu all boded well, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/phtoansen3.jpg\" alt=\"pho setup\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sharing and Respecting\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My husband asked me not to write about this place, as he was afraid of what might happen if the restaurant started attracting people who complained about unfamiliar food culture (someday, I'll write a piece about the unfortunate conflict between Western diners' expectations and Eastern restaurateurs) or who would change the ethnic makeup of the patrons. Call it the Yelp dip. We've seen it happen, and it's always a sad and frustrating thing to accept what success in the US can mean, in the end, for those not centered enough to know their strengths and acknowledge their limits and bravely forge their way between the two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But I trust that you, dear reader, will enjoy and appreciate and respect this bustling noodle house. I cannot tell you how excited I am that my mother found it, and I look forward to many sated returns. If crossing the Bay Bridge counts now as a road trip, I'm more than happy to start up the car.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>PHO AO SEN\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n200 International Blvd.\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94606\u003cbr>\n(510) 839-6821\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=PHO+AO+SEN+oakland,+ca&ie=UTF8&z=14&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"After we picked her up from the Oakland airport, she wanted to stop for a bowl of pho. We scrambled, with our iPhones and our keyword searches, to come up with a place that would hold up to her standards. While we were still trying to locate a good signal, she pointed us over to a group of people who looked suspiciously Vietnamese standing on a corner of International Boulevard. She rolled down the window and asked them where to eat. They gestured to two pho houses nearby. She asked them point-blank: Which one is better? Without hesitating, they pointed to...Pho Ao Sen.\r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1217964913,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":1008},"headData":{"title":"Finding Oakland's Pho Ao Sen | KQED","description":"After we picked her up from the Oakland airport, she wanted to stop for a bowl of pho. We scrambled, with our iPhones and our keyword searches, to come up with a place that would hold up to her standards. While we were still trying to locate a good signal, she pointed us over to a group of people who looked suspiciously Vietnamese standing on a corner of International Boulevard. She rolled down the window and asked them where to eat. They gestured to two pho houses nearby. She asked them point-blank: Which one is better? Without hesitating, they pointed to...Pho Ao Sen.\r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"1322 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/08/04/finding-oaklands-pho-ao-sen/","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/08/04/finding-oaklands-pho-ao-sen/","disqusTitle":"Finding Oakland's Pho Ao Sen","path":"/bayareabites/1322/finding-oaklands-pho-ao-sen","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/phtoansen5.jpg\" alt=\"road closed\">\u003cbr>\n(\u003cem>Photo by brandondesigns\u003c/em>)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As summer reaches its August peak (yes, it's foggy this morning in San Francisco) and as families get desperately creative with their \u003ca href=\"http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/24859538/\">staycations\u003c/a>, I've been reminiscing about those old car trips of my youth: my mom hopelessly lost somewhere between Denver and St. Louis, my sister and I -- oblivious in the backseat -- singing \"Popeye, the Sailor Man!\" over and over and over and over, and our many stops at Church's Chicken and Taco Bell, the two places we were guaranteed to find spicy food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remember those days, long before Chowhound and Yelp, Google and Mapquest, when forays into new culinary terrain were truly crapshoots? (Cue up the old-timey nostalgia music...) To find good food in an unfamiliar town, you had to depend on three important tricks: Identifying well-fed locals with a keen sense of direction. Quickly judging a restaurant by the number and types of vehicles parked out front (or be strong enough to enter, scope out the menu and dining room, and then opt to leave a restaurant with absolutely no shame at all). And, most crucial of all, befriending taxi drivers and policemen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mom's Mad Skillz\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Twenty-five years ago my mom, still shy and still learning English, had her own bag of tricks. She'd stop at a phone booth (OMG--remember those!), heft up the dangling white pages from its metallic tether, and scan the family names for Trans, Nguyens, Lams, Les and Dos. Then she'd invest the quarter or two needed to call up fellow exiles, introduce herself as some stranger rolling through town, and then quickly get to the point: where can I find some good food in these parts?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She recently visited me here in California, and I was reminded of her treasure hunting skills. As one of the last people in this country who still don't have an email account, she depends on the old ways. After we picked her up from the Oakland airport, she wanted to stop for a bowl of pho. We scrambled, with our iPhones and our keyword searches, to come up with a place that would hold up to her standards. While we were still trying to locate a good signal, she pointed us over to a group of people who looked suspiciously Vietnamese standing on a corner of International Boulevard. She rolled down the window and asked them where to eat. They gestured to two pho houses nearby. She asked them point-blank: Which one is better? Without hesitating, they pointed to…Pho Ao Sen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And to the best bowl of pho I've enjoyed in a very long time. Yes, it's a dirty secret that San Francisco is severely lacking in this department. I've accepted mediocre noodles and, worse, lackluster broths as my penance for choosing not to live an hour south of here. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/phtoansen2.jpg\" alt=\"pho ao sen\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Whole Chicken\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since pho bo has entered the general lexicon, I won't waste space talking about the beef version. However, I would very much like to encourage you to try pho ga long trung non. Roughly translated, that means chicken and rice noodle soup with innards and young eggs. (Queasy eaters might want to skip the next paragraph.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you've ever butchered a chicken, you'll know that along the ovary duct one or two diminutive yolks are awaiting nature's application of egg whites and eggshells. And if you grew up with my mom, you'll also know that gizzards, livers and hearts are delicacies worth fighting over at the dinner table. Even more than a well-executed bowl of beef soup, I admire a restaurant that can create a deeply flavored chicken broth, poach high-quality firm yet tender chicken meat, and present the hallmarks of a freshly butchered chicken: a plate of organ meats and young eggs. Nothing goes to waste, and all the flavors and textures are richly balanced.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Ao Sen, along with an excellent bowl of pho bo, they've also perfected pho ga. If a plate of innards is not high on your list, order the plain bowl that comes simply with a plate of chicken meat on the bone. Both come with a ginger dipping sauce, whose secret ingredient is obviously chicken fat, so lovely that I ended up slurping it straight from my spoon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another wonderful thing about this Oakland outpost is that it opens at 8am every single day of the week. Since pho is a breakfast food, I've always been annoyed by the late opening times in the US. Ao Sen fills a long empty, much mourned gap in my comfort food lineup. Even its airy dining room reminded me of Vietnam, and the familiar fragrance of anise-infused broth that greeted us hit home immediately. Weakly brewed iced green tea, fish sauce on the table, and a straightforward menu all boded well, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/08/phtoansen3.jpg\" alt=\"pho setup\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sharing and Respecting\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My husband asked me not to write about this place, as he was afraid of what might happen if the restaurant started attracting people who complained about unfamiliar food culture (someday, I'll write a piece about the unfortunate conflict between Western diners' expectations and Eastern restaurateurs) or who would change the ethnic makeup of the patrons. Call it the Yelp dip. We've seen it happen, and it's always a sad and frustrating thing to accept what success in the US can mean, in the end, for those not centered enough to know their strengths and acknowledge their limits and bravely forge their way between the two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But I trust that you, dear reader, will enjoy and appreciate and respect this bustling noodle house. I cannot tell you how excited I am that my mother found it, and I look forward to many sated returns. If crossing the Bay Bridge counts now as a road trip, I'm more than happy to start up the car.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>PHO AO SEN\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n200 International Blvd.\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94606\u003cbr>\n(510) 839-6821\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=PHO+AO+SEN+oakland,+ca&ie=UTF8&z=14&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/1322/finding-oaklands-pho-ao-sen","authors":["5018"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_1278","bayareabites_1130"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_1166":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_1166","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"1166","score":null,"sort":[1213643630000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"basspro-shops-shopping-hunting-eating-local","title":"BassPro Shops: Shop, Hunt, & Eat Local","publishDate":1213643630,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/06/basspro.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> I make it back to the Midwest two, maybe three times a year. Since I gave up my home address in Independence, Missouri, twenty years ago, I've seen the area's fields and grasslands transformed into bustling Walmarts and Home Depots. The surrounding green has turned into asphalt as steadily and relentlessly as the graying of my parents’ hair. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It seems like every backyard barbeque here includes a story about a Californian couple -- maybe from San Diego, maybe San Francisco -- who sold their dinky 1-bedroom condo and then moved into a brand-spanking-new, 5-bedroom mansion on a half-acre in Blue Springs or Overland Park or even Grain Valley, once the outskirts of the outskirts. My parents live in Oak Grove. Twelve years ago, I always missed the exit to their home, back when I-70 rolled across soybean field after sunflower field. Now, I just look for the shiny, mirrored-glass office building and the concatenated lots of car dealerships to find the road to their house. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kansas City and its environs keeps appearing on recent lists of most livable towns and \u003ca href=\"http://primacy.com/resources/PRIM-5472.pdf\">best cities for relocating families\u003c/a> (pdf), so all this development hasn't slowed much even with the current real estate dip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the latest buildings to pop up near here is the preternaturally landscaped \u003ca href=\"http://www.basspro.com\">BassPro Shops\u003c/a> complex. The Pacific Northwest has its REI stores with their climbing walls and water bottle pumping stations and fake rock paths winding along next to the shoe department. Here, within a morning's drive from the Ozarks, we have BassPro Shops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/06/basspro1.jpg\" alt=\"BassPro Shop\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the place to visit if you've never held a rifle or a fishing rod, never tried on a pair of waders, never perched in a treestand with a crossbow or kicked back in a \u003ca href=\"http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10151&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&partNumber=99404&hvarTarget=search&cmCat=SearchResults\">camouflage rocker recliner\u003c/a> (choose from three favorite camo patterns: Realtree Hardwoods HD, Advantage MAX-4 HD or, my personal preference, Mossy Oak Breakup). Visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.basspro.com/\">the BassPro website\u003c/a> — where you can find the GPS coordinates of each store in the US — to create your gear wish list.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> You can also learn how to tie fishing knots, get step-by-step instructions for cleaning wild turkey, begin training your hound, compare tips on making backwoods coffee, and collect some easy \u003ca href=\"http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CFPage?storeId=10151&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&&mode=article&objectID=28541&cat=Camping&subcatID=41&objectType=article&cmid=OLARTICLE_28541_TITLE\">outdoor cooking recipes\u003c/a>. You can also sign up for training courses on carrying concealed handguns or attend the all girls' weekend in the wild, complete with dutch oven cookery, canoe paddling, and a fashion show. Construction continues on a BassPro Shop in Manteca, California, just south of Stockton. The 120,000 square foot complex will open in October 2008 with great fanfare. Until then, though, I'll have to stock up on supplies here in Missouri.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After gazing over the lake behind the store, where serious shoppers can try out the snazzy 2008 model motor boats, I was lucky enough to catch a clearance sale on fishing lures. My mom, who prefers free worms from her garden or microwaved chunks of hot dogs, and my dad, who nets his own live minnows, were amused by my armful of colorful souvenirs. I packed them away in my suitcase -- art, décor, jewelry, crafty DIY supplies! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, my aunt braved another Midwestern thunderstorm to drop off a large pot of homey, still-warm fish soup, made with the 20-pound head of a very local, very fresh catfish. My family can rest assured that although I may not know the first thing about casting nets or noodling, I do know how to cook and eat the critters once they’re in my kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/06/lures.jpg\" alt=\"fishing lures\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CHAO CA (Vietnamese Rice and Fish Soup)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nServed simply or garnished elaborately, chao is the both weekday breakfast and weekend brunch food of many an Asian family. The fish counter at Asian markets always have large fish heads on ice. As always when selecting fish, look for one with bright, clear eyes and very red gills. Ask them to split the head for you or, if preferred, cut it into large chunks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 8 \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 large fish head, 3-5 pounds, split and rinsed well\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons fish sauce\u003cbr>\n3 large cloves garlic, minced\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n1 small onion, diced\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup uncooked long-grain rice\u003cbr>\n1 quart chicken broth\u003cbr>\nGarnish\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup fresh ginger slivers\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup sliced scallions\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup chopped cilantro\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup fried shallots\u003cbr>\nRed chile oil or sliced red chiles\u003cbr>\n1 lime, cut into wedges\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Rub the fish head well with the fish sauce and garlic. Let marinate 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large heavy pot. Add the onions and sauté until softened. Add the rice and sauté for 3 minutes, taking care not to let the onion brown (or the soup will become muddy in color). Add the chicken broth and 8 cups water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 2 hours, or until creamy smooth. Stir occasionally and add water, if needed, to maintain a creamy consistency.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. In a large skillet, heat the remaining oil. Add the fish head and cook about 5 minutes on each side. When the garlic is fragrant but not yet browned, transfer the fish head with the garlicky oil to the simmering rice soup. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Arrange the garnishes in small bowls at the table. Adjust the flavor of the soup, adding fish sauce to taste, and flake off bits of meat from the fish head into the broth. Serve hot in large bowls.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":null,"status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1213684451,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":937},"headData":{"title":"BassPro Shops: Shop, Hunt, & Eat Local | KQED","description":"I make it back to the Midwest two, maybe three times a year. Since I gave up my home address in Independence, Missouri, twenty years ago, I've seen the area's fields and grasslands transformed into bustling Walmarts and Home Depots. The surrounding green has turned into asphalt as steadily and relentlessly as the graying of","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"1166 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/06/16/basspro-shops-shopping-hunting-eating-local/","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/06/16/basspro-shops-shopping-hunting-eating-local/","disqusTitle":"BassPro Shops: Shop, Hunt, & Eat Local","path":"/bayareabites/1166/basspro-shops-shopping-hunting-eating-local","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/06/basspro.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> I make it back to the Midwest two, maybe three times a year. Since I gave up my home address in Independence, Missouri, twenty years ago, I've seen the area's fields and grasslands transformed into bustling Walmarts and Home Depots. The surrounding green has turned into asphalt as steadily and relentlessly as the graying of my parents’ hair. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It seems like every backyard barbeque here includes a story about a Californian couple -- maybe from San Diego, maybe San Francisco -- who sold their dinky 1-bedroom condo and then moved into a brand-spanking-new, 5-bedroom mansion on a half-acre in Blue Springs or Overland Park or even Grain Valley, once the outskirts of the outskirts. My parents live in Oak Grove. Twelve years ago, I always missed the exit to their home, back when I-70 rolled across soybean field after sunflower field. Now, I just look for the shiny, mirrored-glass office building and the concatenated lots of car dealerships to find the road to their house. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kansas City and its environs keeps appearing on recent lists of most livable towns and \u003ca href=\"http://primacy.com/resources/PRIM-5472.pdf\">best cities for relocating families\u003c/a> (pdf), so all this development hasn't slowed much even with the current real estate dip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the latest buildings to pop up near here is the preternaturally landscaped \u003ca href=\"http://www.basspro.com\">BassPro Shops\u003c/a> complex. The Pacific Northwest has its REI stores with their climbing walls and water bottle pumping stations and fake rock paths winding along next to the shoe department. Here, within a morning's drive from the Ozarks, we have BassPro Shops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/06/basspro1.jpg\" alt=\"BassPro Shop\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the place to visit if you've never held a rifle or a fishing rod, never tried on a pair of waders, never perched in a treestand with a crossbow or kicked back in a \u003ca href=\"http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10151&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&partNumber=99404&hvarTarget=search&cmCat=SearchResults\">camouflage rocker recliner\u003c/a> (choose from three favorite camo patterns: Realtree Hardwoods HD, Advantage MAX-4 HD or, my personal preference, Mossy Oak Breakup). Visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.basspro.com/\">the BassPro website\u003c/a> — where you can find the GPS coordinates of each store in the US — to create your gear wish list.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> You can also learn how to tie fishing knots, get step-by-step instructions for cleaning wild turkey, begin training your hound, compare tips on making backwoods coffee, and collect some easy \u003ca href=\"http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CFPage?storeId=10151&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&&mode=article&objectID=28541&cat=Camping&subcatID=41&objectType=article&cmid=OLARTICLE_28541_TITLE\">outdoor cooking recipes\u003c/a>. You can also sign up for training courses on carrying concealed handguns or attend the all girls' weekend in the wild, complete with dutch oven cookery, canoe paddling, and a fashion show. Construction continues on a BassPro Shop in Manteca, California, just south of Stockton. The 120,000 square foot complex will open in October 2008 with great fanfare. Until then, though, I'll have to stock up on supplies here in Missouri.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After gazing over the lake behind the store, where serious shoppers can try out the snazzy 2008 model motor boats, I was lucky enough to catch a clearance sale on fishing lures. My mom, who prefers free worms from her garden or microwaved chunks of hot dogs, and my dad, who nets his own live minnows, were amused by my armful of colorful souvenirs. I packed them away in my suitcase -- art, décor, jewelry, crafty DIY supplies! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, my aunt braved another Midwestern thunderstorm to drop off a large pot of homey, still-warm fish soup, made with the 20-pound head of a very local, very fresh catfish. My family can rest assured that although I may not know the first thing about casting nets or noodling, I do know how to cook and eat the critters once they’re in my kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/06/lures.jpg\" alt=\"fishing lures\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CHAO CA (Vietnamese Rice and Fish Soup)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nServed simply or garnished elaborately, chao is the both weekday breakfast and weekend brunch food of many an Asian family. The fish counter at Asian markets always have large fish heads on ice. As always when selecting fish, look for one with bright, clear eyes and very red gills. Ask them to split the head for you or, if preferred, cut it into large chunks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 8 \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 large fish head, 3-5 pounds, split and rinsed well\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons fish sauce\u003cbr>\n3 large cloves garlic, minced\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n1 small onion, diced\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup uncooked long-grain rice\u003cbr>\n1 quart chicken broth\u003cbr>\nGarnish\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup fresh ginger slivers\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup sliced scallions\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup chopped cilantro\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup fried shallots\u003cbr>\nRed chile oil or sliced red chiles\u003cbr>\n1 lime, cut into wedges\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Rub the fish head well with the fish sauce and garlic. Let marinate 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large heavy pot. Add the onions and sauté until softened. Add the rice and sauté for 3 minutes, taking care not to let the onion brown (or the soup will become muddy in color). Add the chicken broth and 8 cups water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 2 hours, or until creamy smooth. Stir occasionally and add water, if needed, to maintain a creamy consistency.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. In a large skillet, heat the remaining oil. Add the fish head and cook about 5 minutes on each side. When the garlic is fragrant but not yet browned, transfer the fish head with the garlicky oil to the simmering rice soup. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Arrange the garnishes in small bowls at the table. Adjust the flavor of the soup, adding fish sauce to taste, and flake off bits of meat from the fish head into the broth. Serve hot in large bowls.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/1166/basspro-shops-shopping-hunting-eating-local","authors":["5018"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_1132","bayareabites_1129","bayareabites_376","bayareabites_1130"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/possible-5gxfizEbKOJ-pbF5ASgxrs_.1400x1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. 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