Searching for the Elusive Vietnamese Noodle Dish Bún Kèn
Tapestry Suppers Serve Up Immigrants’ Stories with Good Food and Company
The Pho Cookbook: Interview with Andrea Nguyen
40 Years of Vietnamese Food in California: A Conversation with Andrew Lam
Food & Spirituality: A Visit to Charles Phan's Home Kitchen
This Lunar New Year, the Horse Gallops in with Traditional Foods of Tết
Pop-Up Cafe Rice Paper Scissors Share their Vision (Video)
Banh Mi Love You Long Time's Vietnamese Sandwiches at Porchlight Storytelling
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She holds degrees in English and journalism from UC Berkeley (where she got her start in public radio on KALX-FM).\r\n\r\nOutside of the studio, you'll find Rachael hiking Bay Area trails and whipping up Instagram-ready meals in her kitchen.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/87bf8cb5874e045cdff430523a6d48b1?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"rachaelmyrow","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":"https://www.linkedin.com/in/rachaelmyrow/","sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["administrator"]},{"site":"news","roles":["edit_others_posts","editor"]},{"site":"futureofyou","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"stateofhealth","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"science","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"forum","roles":["editor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Rachael Myrow | KQED","description":"Senior Editor of KQED's Silicon Valley News Desk","ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/87bf8cb5874e045cdff430523a6d48b1?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/87bf8cb5874e045cdff430523a6d48b1?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/rachael-myrow"},"wendy-goodfriend":{"type":"authors","id":"5014","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5014","found":true},"name":"Wendy Goodfriend","firstName":"Wendy","lastName":"Goodfriend","slug":"wendy-goodfriend","email":"wendy@wendygoodfriend.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"I was the Senior Digital Producer for KQED Food up until July, 2018. 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Professional education and training includes: clinical psychology, photography, commercial cooking, web design, information architecture and UX.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dfba64372339cc34cf17e446e6f18fa8?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":"bayareabites","instagram":null,"linkedin":"wendygoodfriend","sites":[{"site":"jpepinheart","roles":["administrator"]},{"site":"about","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["subscriber"]},{"site":"science","roles":["administrator"]},{"site":"checkplease","roles":["subscriber"]},{"site":"food","roles":["author"]},{"site":"essentialpepin","roles":["administrator"]}],"headData":{"title":"Wendy Goodfriend | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dfba64372339cc34cf17e446e6f18fa8?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dfba64372339cc34cf17e446e6f18fa8?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/wendy-goodfriend"},"stephanie-rosenbaum":{"type":"authors","id":"5038","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5038","found":true},"name":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen","firstName":"Stephanie","lastName":"Rosenbaum Klassen","slug":"stephanie-rosenbaum","email":"dixieday@aol.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen is a longtime local food writer, author, and cook. Her books include The Art of Vintage Cocktails (Egg & Dart Press), World of Doughnuts (Egg & Dart Press); Kids in the Kitchen: Fun Food (Williams Sonoma); Honey from Flower to Table (Chronicle Books) and The Astrology Cookbook: A Cosmic Guide to Feasts of Love (Manic D Press). She has studied organic farming at UCSC and holds a certificate in Ecological Horticulture from the Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems. She does frequent cooking demonstrations at local farmers’ markets and has taught food writing at Media Alliance in San Francisco and the Continuing Education program at Stanford University. She has been the lead restaurant critic for the San Francisco Bay Guardian as well as for San Francisco magazine. She has been an assistant chef at the Headlands Center for the Arts, an artists' residency program located in the Marin Headlands, and a production cook at the Marin Sun Farms Cafe in Pt Reyes Station. After some 20 years in San Francisco interspersed with stints in Oakland, Santa Cruz, Brooklyn, and Manhattan, she recently moved to Sonoma county but still writes in San Francisco several days a week.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"sjrosenbaum","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/stephanie-rosenbaum"},"annamindess":{"type":"authors","id":"5283","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5283","found":true},"name":"Anna Mindess","firstName":"Anna","lastName":"Mindess","slug":"annamindess","email":"amindess@aol.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"My passion is exploring the connections between food, travel and culture. I am a regular contributor to AFAR, Edible East Bay Magazine, Oakland Magazine, Berkeleyside's NOSH and other publications. I usually take a route that's slightly off the beaten path, like \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2017/fun-with-food-insults/\">collecting food-related insults\u003c/a> around the world or \u003ca href=\"https://www.afar.com/magazine/what-i-learned-hawking-sweet-potatoes-with-a-street-vendor-in-taiwan?email=amindess%40aol.com&utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Doctors%20Without%20Borders&utm_term=Daily%20Wander%20Newsletter\">volunteering with a Sweet Potato Mama\u003c/a> (street food seller) in Tapei.\r\n\r\nCulture is the thread that ties together my several careers. I also work as a sign language interpreter, educator and author. My study of Deaf culture has taken me around the world, where I am always on a quest to find Deaf-owned restaurants. I love making connections between my different worlds, for example in this AFAR story where I share \u003ca href=\"https://www.afar.com/magazine/tips-from-a-sign-language-interpreter-for-overcoming-language-barriers\">tips for communicating across cultures\u003c/a> that I learned from the real experts, Deaf people. Or this \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2017/deaf-chefs-compete/\">profile of a Deaf chef and culinary arts instructor\u003c/a> at the California School for the Deaf.\r\n\r\nTo see my visual/edible take on the world, follow me on Instagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/annamindess/\">annamindess. \u003c/a>\r\n\r\nFor more of my stories: visit Contently \u003ca href=\"http://annamindess.contently.com\">annamindess.contently.com\u003c/a>","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["author"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Anna Mindess | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/annamindess"},"kenrickmercado":{"type":"authors","id":"5396","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5396","found":true},"name":"Kenrick Mercado","firstName":"Kenrick","lastName":"Mercado","slug":"kenrickmercado","email":"kennykusina@gmail.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Fresh to the food scene, I made a career change from education to food and media, after studying Culinary Arts and Broadcast Journalism at SF City College. Landing my first gig as a KQED intern for \u003cem>Essential Pépin\u003c/em>, later recruited as an Associate Producer for seasons 6 and 7 of \u003cem>Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/em>. As a first-time Photography Editor, I collaborated with CCA Chef Instructor Al Meyer on his first culinary textbook \u003cem>The Working Garde Manger\u003c/em>. Now, in an attempt to manage the full plate of emerging talent in the Bay Area, I’m developing \u003cem>Kenny Kusina\u003c/em>, a culinary and media arts studio which produces several web series; \u003cem>FoodCentric\u003c/em> covering food news, \u003cem>Fusion\u003c/em> a music and arts channel, \u003cem>Kulinarya\u003c/em> a focus on Filipino-American food, and a live show called \u003cem>Studio Gourmet\u003c/em> featuring the city’s top Chefs.\r\nView my channel on \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/user/kennykusina\">YouTube\u003c/a> and follow me on Twitter \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/KennyKusina\">@kennykusina\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Kenny-Kusina/137578689595778\">Facebook\u003c/a>.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8ee29e5d918b08498a655704e4a941d5?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"kennykusina","facebook":"Kenny-Kusina/137578689595778","instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Kenrick Mercado | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8ee29e5d918b08498a655704e4a941d5?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8ee29e5d918b08498a655704e4a941d5?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/kenrickmercado"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_139066":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_139066","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"139066","score":null,"sort":[1601650801000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"searching-for-the-elusive-vietnamese-noodle-dish-bun-ken","title":"Searching for the Elusive Vietnamese Noodle Dish Bún Kèn","publishDate":1601650801,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ci>Bún kèn \u003c/i>is one of the most treasured Vietnamese noodle dishes\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The aromatic assemblage of rice noodles topped with an amber-colored, heavily spiced, coconut fish curry, garnished with fresh herbs like bean sprouts, mint and cucumber, is not easy to find in Bay Area Vietnamese restaurants. Even if you travelled to Vietnam, you might miss it—unless you knew the right street vendor on the island of \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://cheftu.com/\">Chef Tu David Phu\u003c/a>, a Bay Area chef who also appeared on Bravo's Top Chef\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, whose family hails from \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc,\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> reverently declares he could eat bowls and bowls of it. Fish and spices, the essential elements of the dish, he explains, have always played pivotal roles on this island in the Mekong Delta, southwest of Vietnam. Its position on the Silk Road, bestowed on its cuisine an abundance of ingredients from many lands, such as lemon grass from Africa, and turmeric, ginger, and coriander from South Asia.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139072\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139072\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-800x450.jpeg\" alt=\"Spiced fish curry is the key to bún kèn from the Vietnamese island of Phú Quốc.\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-800x450.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-1020x574.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-160x90.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-768x432.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key...jpeg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spiced fish curry is the key to bún kèn from the Vietnamese island of Phú Quốc. \u003ccite>(VietnamCoracle.com https://www.vietnamcoracle.com/island-broth-bun-ken/)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although his mother cooked the dish when Phu was a child, he figures he hadn’t yet developed the palate to appreciate its assertive flavors. The first time he actually recalls tasting \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> was just a couple of years ago, at a gathering of local \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">islanders. “It had somehow got pushed out of my memory,” he says. “But it tasted familiar and something in me woke up.” Because of its strong spice profile, Phu, who is also a \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/The-2017-class-of-Chronicle-Rising-Star-Chefs-11087887.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Rising Star Chef\u003c/a>, admits he mistakenly first pegged it as Indonesian.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside tag=\"noodles2020\" label=\"More Noodles.\"]\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now that he is enamored with \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the chef tries to replicate it at home. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The key element,” he says, “is the texture of the fish in the curry sauce, which needs to be ‘bouncy.’” Phu achieves this by pounding the white fish (halibut is his choice) in a mortar for over an hour. It is important, he cautions, not to grind the fish as that would \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">result in a very different texture. “In southern Vietnamese cooking,” he says, “we love things that have a bounce. Even when we chop, or grind, we’re always trying to figure out how to get more chew into it.” The time-consuming dish, he says, involves “toasting and blooming tons of lemongrass, ginger, aromatics like turmeric and curry into the oil, thus infusing it with a dark turmeric color. Like a soup or stew you have to stand and stir it gently, not let it burn or over reduce, and give it lots of attention.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although Phu cooked for years at fine New York restaurants and concedes that he is considered an excellent chef, he still feels his attempts to make\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> have not yet achieved the ideal he is striving for. “As ‘accomplished’ as I am, I can’t cook as well as my Vietnamese aunt or my mom or my grandmother or a\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Phú Quốc\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> street vendor,” he admits. “They have been doing it every day, for generations.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Bún kèn at the Soapbox Café\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139070\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139070\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Soapbox Cafe’s spices for the fish curry include: turmeric, lemon grass, makrut lime leaves, ginger, galanga, garlic and shallots.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Soapbox Cafe’s spices for the fish curry include: turmeric, lemon grass, makrut lime leaves, ginger, galanga, garlic and shallots. \u003ccite>(The Soapbox Cafe)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In his search for the perfect \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn,\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Phu discovered an unassuming Russian Hill café called Soapbox Café. When he tasted the dish made by Van Nguyen, the matriarch and cook of the family-owned restaurant who also hails from \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, he knew he had found a master. “She nailed it!” says Phu.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nguyen, her husband and two young daughters came to the U.S. as refugees in 1984 after spending two years in a Thai refugee camp. She and her older daughter, Loan Ly, have been running the café since 2015, serving mostly breakfast and lunch dishes. To celebrate their re-opening after an earthquake retrofitting in 2019, Nguyen was inspired to serve \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">for the first time at Soapbox Café.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139071\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139071\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Van Nguyen and Tu David Phu share a love of bún kèn\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Van Nguyen(left) and Tu David Phu share a love of bún kèn. \u003ccite>(The Soapbox Cafe)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although both Nguyen and Ly had previously traveled to \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> separately, their first trip to the island together was in 2017. As they visited relatives, they tasted the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> at an aunt’s food stall and were smitten. (It was Ly’s first time eating it, because her mother explained, the labor-intensive dish is not usually made at home.) Although the women inquired, their aunt would only provide them with a general idea of its preparation. But the memory of its taste was enough for Nguyen, a skilled cook, to perfect the dish when she came home. She agrees with Phu: the secret to \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is achieving the perfect texture for the fish curry, and that takes work. After cleaning, salting and boiling the fish, she pounds it with a stone mortar and pestle for two hours and then pounds it together with the spices. With her daughter interpreting over the phone, she described the desired texture as “fluffy like pork floss, or like a powder with a grainy, but bouncy texture.” The slender rice noodles at the base of the dish play an important counterbalance and require care to achieve a chewy, not mushy, texture.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nguyen plans to start offering \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">as an occasional popup special at Soapbox Cafe. (Check their website or Instagram site for details.) And her daughter will be watching very closely as her mother cooks, so that one day, she can master this special dish and carry on the family tradition.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci> Soapbox Cafe\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.thesoapboxcafe.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">https://www.thesoapboxcafe.com/\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1800 Hyde Street, San Francisco\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">415-814-3391\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">@thesoapboxcafe\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Bún kèn is a treasured Vietnamese noodle dish that is an aromatic assemblage of rice noodles, spices , fish curry and herbs. For San Francisco chef Tu David Phu, this dish is one that holds a special place for him. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621632488,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":12,"wordCount":1082},"headData":{"title":"Searching for the Elusive Vietnamese Noodle Dish Bún Kèn | KQED","description":"Bún kèn is a treasured Vietnamese noodle dish that is an aromatic assemblage of rice noodles, spices , fish curry and herbs. For San Francisco chef Tu David Phu, this dish is one that holds a special place for him. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Searching for the Elusive Vietnamese Noodle Dish Bún Kèn","datePublished":"2020-10-02T15:00:01.000Z","dateModified":"2021-05-21T21:28:08.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"139066 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=139066","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/10/02/searching-for-the-elusive-vietnamese-noodle-dish-bun-ken/","disqusTitle":"Searching for the Elusive Vietnamese Noodle Dish Bún Kèn","source":"KQED Noodle Week","sourceUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/noodles","path":"/bayareabites/139066/searching-for-the-elusive-vietnamese-noodle-dish-bun-ken","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ci>Bún kèn \u003c/i>is one of the most treasured Vietnamese noodle dishes\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The aromatic assemblage of rice noodles topped with an amber-colored, heavily spiced, coconut fish curry, garnished with fresh herbs like bean sprouts, mint and cucumber, is not easy to find in Bay Area Vietnamese restaurants. Even if you travelled to Vietnam, you might miss it—unless you knew the right street vendor on the island of \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://cheftu.com/\">Chef Tu David Phu\u003c/a>, a Bay Area chef who also appeared on Bravo's Top Chef\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, whose family hails from \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc,\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> reverently declares he could eat bowls and bowls of it. Fish and spices, the essential elements of the dish, he explains, have always played pivotal roles on this island in the Mekong Delta, southwest of Vietnam. Its position on the Silk Road, bestowed on its cuisine an abundance of ingredients from many lands, such as lemon grass from Africa, and turmeric, ginger, and coriander from South Asia.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139072\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139072\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-800x450.jpeg\" alt=\"Spiced fish curry is the key to bún kèn from the Vietnamese island of Phú Quốc.\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-800x450.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-1020x574.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-160x90.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-768x432.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key...jpeg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spiced fish curry is the key to bún kèn from the Vietnamese island of Phú Quốc. \u003ccite>(VietnamCoracle.com https://www.vietnamcoracle.com/island-broth-bun-ken/)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although his mother cooked the dish when Phu was a child, he figures he hadn’t yet developed the palate to appreciate its assertive flavors. The first time he actually recalls tasting \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> was just a couple of years ago, at a gathering of local \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">islanders. “It had somehow got pushed out of my memory,” he says. “But it tasted familiar and something in me woke up.” Because of its strong spice profile, Phu, who is also a \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/The-2017-class-of-Chronicle-Rising-Star-Chefs-11087887.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Rising Star Chef\u003c/a>, admits he mistakenly first pegged it as Indonesian.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"noodles2020","label":"More Noodles. "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now that he is enamored with \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the chef tries to replicate it at home. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The key element,” he says, “is the texture of the fish in the curry sauce, which needs to be ‘bouncy.’” Phu achieves this by pounding the white fish (halibut is his choice) in a mortar for over an hour. It is important, he cautions, not to grind the fish as that would \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">result in a very different texture. “In southern Vietnamese cooking,” he says, “we love things that have a bounce. Even when we chop, or grind, we’re always trying to figure out how to get more chew into it.” The time-consuming dish, he says, involves “toasting and blooming tons of lemongrass, ginger, aromatics like turmeric and curry into the oil, thus infusing it with a dark turmeric color. Like a soup or stew you have to stand and stir it gently, not let it burn or over reduce, and give it lots of attention.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although Phu cooked for years at fine New York restaurants and concedes that he is considered an excellent chef, he still feels his attempts to make\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> have not yet achieved the ideal he is striving for. “As ‘accomplished’ as I am, I can’t cook as well as my Vietnamese aunt or my mom or my grandmother or a\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Phú Quốc\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> street vendor,” he admits. “They have been doing it every day, for generations.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Bún kèn at the Soapbox Café\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139070\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139070\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Soapbox Cafe’s spices for the fish curry include: turmeric, lemon grass, makrut lime leaves, ginger, galanga, garlic and shallots.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Soapbox Cafe’s spices for the fish curry include: turmeric, lemon grass, makrut lime leaves, ginger, galanga, garlic and shallots. \u003ccite>(The Soapbox Cafe)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In his search for the perfect \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn,\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Phu discovered an unassuming Russian Hill café called Soapbox Café. When he tasted the dish made by Van Nguyen, the matriarch and cook of the family-owned restaurant who also hails from \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, he knew he had found a master. “She nailed it!” says Phu.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nguyen, her husband and two young daughters came to the U.S. as refugees in 1984 after spending two years in a Thai refugee camp. She and her older daughter, Loan Ly, have been running the café since 2015, serving mostly breakfast and lunch dishes. To celebrate their re-opening after an earthquake retrofitting in 2019, Nguyen was inspired to serve \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">for the first time at Soapbox Café.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139071\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139071\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Van Nguyen and Tu David Phu share a love of bún kèn\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Van Nguyen(left) and Tu David Phu share a love of bún kèn. \u003ccite>(The Soapbox Cafe)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although both Nguyen and Ly had previously traveled to \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> separately, their first trip to the island together was in 2017. As they visited relatives, they tasted the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> at an aunt’s food stall and were smitten. (It was Ly’s first time eating it, because her mother explained, the labor-intensive dish is not usually made at home.) Although the women inquired, their aunt would only provide them with a general idea of its preparation. But the memory of its taste was enough for Nguyen, a skilled cook, to perfect the dish when she came home. She agrees with Phu: the secret to \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is achieving the perfect texture for the fish curry, and that takes work. After cleaning, salting and boiling the fish, she pounds it with a stone mortar and pestle for two hours and then pounds it together with the spices. With her daughter interpreting over the phone, she described the desired texture as “fluffy like pork floss, or like a powder with a grainy, but bouncy texture.” The slender rice noodles at the base of the dish play an important counterbalance and require care to achieve a chewy, not mushy, texture.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nguyen plans to start offering \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">as an occasional popup special at Soapbox Cafe. (Check their website or Instagram site for details.) And her daughter will be watching very closely as her mother cooks, so that one day, she can master this special dish and carry on the family tradition.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci> Soapbox Cafe\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.thesoapboxcafe.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">https://www.thesoapboxcafe.com/\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1800 Hyde Street, San Francisco\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">415-814-3391\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">@thesoapboxcafe\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/139066/searching-for-the-elusive-vietnamese-noodle-dish-bun-ken","authors":["5283"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_17082"],"tags":["bayareabites_16953","bayareabites_1359","bayareabites_377","bayareabites_16940","bayareabites_209","bayareabites_16952","bayareabites_10756"],"featImg":"bayareabites_139068","label":"source_bayareabites_139066"},"bayareabites_116500":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_116500","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"116500","score":null,"sort":[1491502180000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"tapestry-suppers-serve-up-immigrants-stories-with-good-food-and-company","title":"Tapestry Suppers Serve Up Immigrants’ Stories with Good Food and Company","publishDate":1491502180,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>A lovely garden party. Inviting platters of delicate shrimp rolls and crusty \u003cem>banh mi\u003c/em> sandwiches. Groups of people in lively conversations, getting to know each other. But there is another powerful thread running through this recent South Bay get-together, brought into focus as hostess Thoa van Seventer shares her story of leaving Vietnam and suddenly chokes up with emotion. When American troops pulled out of Vietnam in 1975, Thoa was 17 years old. Six years later, her father succumbed to despair and passed away. Thoa, her mother and sisters remained in Saigon under Viet Cong rule until 1985 when the former French Ambassador to Vietnam sponsored her family for French residency. But at that point, Thoa had a hard choice to make since she had just received a marriage proposal from a chief military officer's son in Vietnam.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116557\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116557\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new.jpg\" alt=\"Thoa van Seventer shares her story with guests at the first Tapestry Supper.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1513\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-160x126.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-800x630.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-768x605.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-1020x804.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-1180x930.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-960x757.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-240x189.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-375x296.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-520x410.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thoa van Seventer shares her story with guests at the first Tapestry Supper. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Her voice breaks as she explains to the assembled guests, “I told him ‘No, thank you’ because freedom is everything; freedom is more important than a broken heart. I made a hard choice to leave everything behind.” Thoa and her family had few possessions when they arrived in Paris in the freezing cold winter of 1985. “We came to France as beggars,” she says. “When we landed, we didn’t know if we would be welcome. But I felt like a child, who was lovingly adopted by the French people. They helped us a lot. I am so grateful to the country that adopted me.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When I see pictures of the refugees now,” she adds, “I feel respect for the refugees and for the people who help them.” And with that, Thoa serves a tray of flavorful crab and asparagus soup to her guests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116558\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116558\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new.jpg\" alt=\"Crab and asparagus soup, a traditional dish for Vietnamese weddings.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-160x160.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-768x768.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-240x240.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-375x375.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-520x520.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crab and asparagus soup, a traditional dish for Vietnamese weddings. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This moving encounter is from the first in a series of “Tapestry Suppers” organized by Danielle Tsi, a freelance photographer and owner of the blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.beyondtheplate.net/\">Beyond the Plate\u003c/a>. Her goal is to get people together to share their experiences and break down barriers by showcasing immigrant stories and cuisines. “I want to bring people together to connect offline, instead of just getting sucked into the digital black hole of news,” says Tsi, who emigrated from Singapore ten years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116559\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116559\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new.jpg\" alt=\"Danielle Tsi, founder of Tapestry Suppers and owner of Beyond the Plate blog.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1536\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-160x128.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-800x640.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-768x614.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-1020x816.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-1180x944.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-960x768.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-240x192.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-375x300.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-520x416.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Danielle Tsi, founder of Tapestry Suppers and owner of Beyond the Plate blog. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“As an immigrant myself who is not a citizen and can’t vote, what can I do? Give money to causes. But I want to do more. There is so much culture and diversity in the Bay Area,” says Tsi. “In Singapore, enjoying food together is a big unifier across all the different cultural groups there. People often underestimate the power of food—besides feeding and nurturing it can also to foster empathy. And food is a way to chip away at the public’s ignorance.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tsi combined the ideas of people sharing food, learning about immigrants and raising money for good causes. Each get-together features a different immigrant home chef and raise money for a cause of their choice. (This one raised $350 for \u003ca href=\"http://www.rescue.org\">The International Rescue Committee\u003c/a>.) Her idea seems to resonate in these unsettled times. The first event sold out in four days, which may partly be due to the fact that Thoa van Seventer is a beloved yoga instructor. Many of the 30 guests who gathered at her home in Palo Alto were her students and fellow yogis, including Danielle Tsi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Thoa’s oldest sister left Viet Nam two years after the communists took over in 1975, she, her younger sisters and mother did not get out until ten years later. In the intervening years, her mother advised: “you better learn something” and arranged for her daughters to take cooking lessons. The guests at the Tapestry Supper lunch enjoyed the benefits of her mother’s forethought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116560\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116560\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new.jpg\" alt=\"Shrimp rolls and banh mi sandwich made by Thoa van Seventer.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shrimp rolls and banh mi sandwich made by Thoa van Seventer. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The dishes Thoa prepared were familiar, but the execution exquisite. They drew high praise from the other Vietnamese guests. The rice paper on the delicate shrimp rolls was perfectly tender, the filling held a surprise bite of fresh pineapple. The varied ingredients in the banh mi sandwich combined in harmony, and the crab and asparagus soup, a traditional dish for weddings, was sublime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thoa confides that she is puzzled and saddened by a friend of hers, who is also Vietnamese, but has a completely different attitude to the refugees who are desperately trying to escape persecution right now. The friend states she doesn’t want them here in the U.S. “She says that we should just take care of ourselves and our country and keep everything we can,” Thoa reports. She is dumbstruck by this lack of empathy, knowing full well that the refugees are not coming by choice, but face a stark choice: leave or die.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116561\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116561\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new.jpg\" alt=\"Anh Hodges also has a story to share.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1367\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-800x570.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-768x547.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-1020x726.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-1180x840.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-960x684.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-240x171.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-375x267.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-520x370.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anh Hodges also has a story to share. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One of the guests, Anh Hodges, shared with her tablemates her own harrowing story of numerous thwarted attempts to escape Vietnam throughout her childhood. In 1978, four brothers and one sister in her family of 11 children did escape to avoid the Cambodian draft. But when Anh and her other sisters repeatedly tried to leave they were often caught, sometimes beaten, or sent to prison for several months. Her mother would pay money to men who were supposed to help them escape by boat, but took advantage of them and just kept their money.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The family would not give up. After 13 failed attempts, in 1989, they finally made it out by plane. Sponsored by one of her older brothers, Anh stayed in Los Angeles for a year and then came up north. In Vietnam, she had been a high school teacher of English and math. She wanted to continue her studies, but there was no money for that. So she attended beauty school instead, became a hairstylist and eventually owned her own salon in San Jose for 20 years, with 20 employees. A friend at the table tells of Ahn’s contributions: donating the produce from her organic garden to a local school; her volunteering at the local hospital; and other good deeds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116562\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116562\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new.jpg\" alt=\"The point of Tapestry Suppers is for people to get to know each other and share their stories.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1429\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-160x119.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-800x595.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-768x572.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-1020x759.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-1180x878.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-960x715.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-240x179.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-375x279.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-520x387.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The point of Tapestry Suppers is for people to get to know each other and share their stories. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The host of the next Tapestry Supper, April Chou, left Burma in 1977 at age 15, as an immigrant. She says, “when the military junta took over in 1962, no one had freedom, no one dared to speak up, as often relatives and friends ended up in jail. They shut down all private businesses and food was often rationed. Schools, especially universities, were shut down regularly due to student uprisings. Then came the massacre in 1988. Some of my old friends survived by living in the jungle. It’s sad to see Burma become one of the poorest countries with the lowest GDP despite its rich natural resources.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116563\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116563\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new.jpg\" alt=\"April Chou will be the host of the next Tapestry Supper and cook food from her native Burma.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1537\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-160x128.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-800x640.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-768x615.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-1020x817.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-1180x945.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-960x769.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-240x192.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-375x300.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-520x416.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">April Chou will be the host of the next Tapestry Supper and cook food from her native Burma. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After many years working in high tech, Chou got more involved with Ashtanga yoga and Vipassana mediation, became vegan, switched gears and attended \u003ca href=\"https://www.baumancollege.org/\">Bauman College\u003c/a>’s Natural Chef training program. She is still finalizing the menu for April 23, and says she will probably make crudités and dips, tea leaf salad, coconut rice, and chicken/vegetable curry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next Tapestry Supper will be held in Sunnyvale on April 23. Tickets will be available for purchase starting Monday April 10 at 9am. Monthly dinners will follow through the summer, with different chefs. May's dinner will be an Iranian meal and Tsi is exploring possibility of featuring Tanzanian, Indian and Syrian cuisines. She does not yet have a website and advises that the best way to stay informed about future events is to sign up for her \u003ca href=\"http://eepurl.com/cFMhND\">newsletter and mailing list\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Tsi states \u003ca href=\"http://www.beyondtheplate.net/2017/03/tapestry-suppers-immigrant-stories/\">on her blog\u003c/a> \"At a time of strong anti-immigrant sentiment in the U.S., our gatherings are the antidote to this zeitgeist by bringing people around the table to share a meal and learn about the multitude of cultures that make the Bay Area such a vibrant place to live. We believe that a society is made stronger by the diversity of its parts, and that the best way to learn about cultures foreign to us is through their cuisine.\"\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Tapestry Suppers pair immigrant home chefs with guests who want to learn about their experiences, culture and cuisine. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1492041876,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":17,"wordCount":1478},"headData":{"title":"Tapestry Suppers Serve Up Immigrants’ Stories with Good Food and Company | KQED","description":"Tapestry Suppers pair immigrant home chefs with guests who want to learn about their experiences, culture and cuisine. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Tapestry Suppers Serve Up Immigrants’ Stories with Good Food and Company","datePublished":"2017-04-06T18:09:40.000Z","dateModified":"2017-04-13T00:04:36.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"116500 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=116500","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/04/06/tapestry-suppers-serve-up-immigrants-stories-with-good-food-and-company/","disqusTitle":"Tapestry Suppers Serve Up Immigrants’ Stories with Good Food and Company","source":"Pop-Ups, Dinner Parties","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/restaurants-and-bars/","path":"/bayareabites/116500/tapestry-suppers-serve-up-immigrants-stories-with-good-food-and-company","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>A lovely garden party. Inviting platters of delicate shrimp rolls and crusty \u003cem>banh mi\u003c/em> sandwiches. Groups of people in lively conversations, getting to know each other. But there is another powerful thread running through this recent South Bay get-together, brought into focus as hostess Thoa van Seventer shares her story of leaving Vietnam and suddenly chokes up with emotion. When American troops pulled out of Vietnam in 1975, Thoa was 17 years old. Six years later, her father succumbed to despair and passed away. Thoa, her mother and sisters remained in Saigon under Viet Cong rule until 1985 when the former French Ambassador to Vietnam sponsored her family for French residency. But at that point, Thoa had a hard choice to make since she had just received a marriage proposal from a chief military officer's son in Vietnam.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116557\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116557\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new.jpg\" alt=\"Thoa van Seventer shares her story with guests at the first Tapestry Supper.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1513\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-160x126.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-800x630.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-768x605.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-1020x804.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-1180x930.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-960x757.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-240x189.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-375x296.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-Thoa-new-520x410.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thoa van Seventer shares her story with guests at the first Tapestry Supper. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Her voice breaks as she explains to the assembled guests, “I told him ‘No, thank you’ because freedom is everything; freedom is more important than a broken heart. I made a hard choice to leave everything behind.” Thoa and her family had few possessions when they arrived in Paris in the freezing cold winter of 1985. “We came to France as beggars,” she says. “When we landed, we didn’t know if we would be welcome. But I felt like a child, who was lovingly adopted by the French people. They helped us a lot. I am so grateful to the country that adopted me.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When I see pictures of the refugees now,” she adds, “I feel respect for the refugees and for the people who help them.” And with that, Thoa serves a tray of flavorful crab and asparagus soup to her guests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116558\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116558\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new.jpg\" alt=\"Crab and asparagus soup, a traditional dish for Vietnamese weddings.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-160x160.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-768x768.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-1020x1020.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-240x240.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-375x375.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-520x520.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-soup-new-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crab and asparagus soup, a traditional dish for Vietnamese weddings. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This moving encounter is from the first in a series of “Tapestry Suppers” organized by Danielle Tsi, a freelance photographer and owner of the blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.beyondtheplate.net/\">Beyond the Plate\u003c/a>. Her goal is to get people together to share their experiences and break down barriers by showcasing immigrant stories and cuisines. “I want to bring people together to connect offline, instead of just getting sucked into the digital black hole of news,” says Tsi, who emigrated from Singapore ten years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116559\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116559\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new.jpg\" alt=\"Danielle Tsi, founder of Tapestry Suppers and owner of Beyond the Plate blog.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1536\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-160x128.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-800x640.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-768x614.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-1020x816.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-1180x944.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-960x768.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-240x192.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-375x300.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/4-Danielle-new-520x416.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Danielle Tsi, founder of Tapestry Suppers and owner of Beyond the Plate blog. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“As an immigrant myself who is not a citizen and can’t vote, what can I do? Give money to causes. But I want to do more. There is so much culture and diversity in the Bay Area,” says Tsi. “In Singapore, enjoying food together is a big unifier across all the different cultural groups there. People often underestimate the power of food—besides feeding and nurturing it can also to foster empathy. And food is a way to chip away at the public’s ignorance.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tsi combined the ideas of people sharing food, learning about immigrants and raising money for good causes. Each get-together features a different immigrant home chef and raise money for a cause of their choice. (This one raised $350 for \u003ca href=\"http://www.rescue.org\">The International Rescue Committee\u003c/a>.) Her idea seems to resonate in these unsettled times. The first event sold out in four days, which may partly be due to the fact that Thoa van Seventer is a beloved yoga instructor. Many of the 30 guests who gathered at her home in Palo Alto were her students and fellow yogis, including Danielle Tsi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Thoa’s oldest sister left Viet Nam two years after the communists took over in 1975, she, her younger sisters and mother did not get out until ten years later. In the intervening years, her mother advised: “you better learn something” and arranged for her daughters to take cooking lessons. The guests at the Tapestry Supper lunch enjoyed the benefits of her mother’s forethought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116560\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116560\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new.jpg\" alt=\"Shrimp rolls and banh mi sandwich made by Thoa van Seventer.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-plate-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shrimp rolls and banh mi sandwich made by Thoa van Seventer. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The dishes Thoa prepared were familiar, but the execution exquisite. They drew high praise from the other Vietnamese guests. The rice paper on the delicate shrimp rolls was perfectly tender, the filling held a surprise bite of fresh pineapple. The varied ingredients in the banh mi sandwich combined in harmony, and the crab and asparagus soup, a traditional dish for weddings, was sublime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thoa confides that she is puzzled and saddened by a friend of hers, who is also Vietnamese, but has a completely different attitude to the refugees who are desperately trying to escape persecution right now. The friend states she doesn’t want them here in the U.S. “She says that we should just take care of ourselves and our country and keep everything we can,” Thoa reports. She is dumbstruck by this lack of empathy, knowing full well that the refugees are not coming by choice, but face a stark choice: leave or die.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116561\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116561\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new.jpg\" alt=\"Anh Hodges also has a story to share.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1367\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-160x114.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-800x570.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-768x547.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-1020x726.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-1180x840.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-960x684.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-240x171.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-375x267.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/6-Anh-new-520x370.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anh Hodges also has a story to share. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One of the guests, Anh Hodges, shared with her tablemates her own harrowing story of numerous thwarted attempts to escape Vietnam throughout her childhood. In 1978, four brothers and one sister in her family of 11 children did escape to avoid the Cambodian draft. But when Anh and her other sisters repeatedly tried to leave they were often caught, sometimes beaten, or sent to prison for several months. Her mother would pay money to men who were supposed to help them escape by boat, but took advantage of them and just kept their money.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The family would not give up. After 13 failed attempts, in 1989, they finally made it out by plane. Sponsored by one of her older brothers, Anh stayed in Los Angeles for a year and then came up north. In Vietnam, she had been a high school teacher of English and math. She wanted to continue her studies, but there was no money for that. So she attended beauty school instead, became a hairstylist and eventually owned her own salon in San Jose for 20 years, with 20 employees. A friend at the table tells of Ahn’s contributions: donating the produce from her organic garden to a local school; her volunteering at the local hospital; and other good deeds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116562\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116562\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new.jpg\" alt=\"The point of Tapestry Suppers is for people to get to know each other and share their stories.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1429\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-160x119.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-800x595.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-768x572.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-1020x759.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-1180x878.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-960x715.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-240x179.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-375x279.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/7-group-new-520x387.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The point of Tapestry Suppers is for people to get to know each other and share their stories. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The host of the next Tapestry Supper, April Chou, left Burma in 1977 at age 15, as an immigrant. She says, “when the military junta took over in 1962, no one had freedom, no one dared to speak up, as often relatives and friends ended up in jail. They shut down all private businesses and food was often rationed. Schools, especially universities, were shut down regularly due to student uprisings. Then came the massacre in 1988. Some of my old friends survived by living in the jungle. It’s sad to see Burma become one of the poorest countries with the lowest GDP despite its rich natural resources.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116563\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116563\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new.jpg\" alt=\"April Chou will be the host of the next Tapestry Supper and cook food from her native Burma.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1537\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-160x128.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-800x640.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-768x615.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-1020x817.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-1180x945.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-960x769.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-240x192.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-375x300.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/8-April-new-520x416.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">April Chou will be the host of the next Tapestry Supper and cook food from her native Burma. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After many years working in high tech, Chou got more involved with Ashtanga yoga and Vipassana mediation, became vegan, switched gears and attended \u003ca href=\"https://www.baumancollege.org/\">Bauman College\u003c/a>’s Natural Chef training program. She is still finalizing the menu for April 23, and says she will probably make crudités and dips, tea leaf salad, coconut rice, and chicken/vegetable curry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next Tapestry Supper will be held in Sunnyvale on April 23. Tickets will be available for purchase starting Monday April 10 at 9am. Monthly dinners will follow through the summer, with different chefs. May's dinner will be an Iranian meal and Tsi is exploring possibility of featuring Tanzanian, Indian and Syrian cuisines. She does not yet have a website and advises that the best way to stay informed about future events is to sign up for her \u003ca href=\"http://eepurl.com/cFMhND\">newsletter and mailing list\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Tsi states \u003ca href=\"http://www.beyondtheplate.net/2017/03/tapestry-suppers-immigrant-stories/\">on her blog\u003c/a> \"At a time of strong anti-immigrant sentiment in the U.S., our gatherings are the antidote to this zeitgeist by bringing people around the table to share a meal and learn about the multitude of cultures that make the Bay Area such a vibrant place to live. We believe that a society is made stronger by the diversity of its parts, and that the best way to learn about cultures foreign to us is through their cuisine.\"\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/116500/tapestry-suppers-serve-up-immigrants-stories-with-good-food-and-company","authors":["5283"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_1865","bayareabites_2332","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_91"],"tags":["bayareabites_15806","bayareabites_14117","bayareabites_15803","bayareabites_452","bayareabites_12834","bayareabites_15805","bayareabites_15802","bayareabites_15804","bayareabites_10793","bayareabites_10756","bayareabites_10985","bayareabites_13581","bayareabites_1130"],"featImg":"bayareabites_116556","label":"source_bayareabites_116500"},"bayareabites_115191":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_115191","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"115191","score":null,"sort":[1487016333000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-pho-cookbook-interview-with-andrea-nguyen","title":"The Pho Cookbook: Interview with Andrea Nguyen","publishDate":1487016333,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>In Vietnam, when Andrea Nguyen was five years old, she impressed her parents--and the owners of their local pho shop--with her noodle-soup dexterity. Chopsticks in one hand, soup spoon in the other, she scooped and slurped like a pro, emptying her bowl of aromatic beef broth, slippery rice noodles, and slices of meat with an ear-to-ear grin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115249\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-1020x1530.jpg\" alt=\"Andrea Nguyen, author of The Pho Cookbook\" width=\"640\" height=\"960\" class=\"size-large wp-image-115249\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-520x780.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andrea Nguyen, author of The Pho Cookbook \u003ccite>(Genevieve Pierson )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A year later, in 1975, Nguyen's family left Vietnam as refugees, finding a new home in Orange County. \"We gained freedom,\" said Nguyen, \"but we lost pho shops.\" The shops, restaurants, and markets that would become \u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com/food-wine/flavors-of-the-west/guide-little-saigon\" target=\"_blank\">Little Saigon\u003c/a> were still some years away. Instead, homemade pho became a Sunday-morning family staple as her mother traded tips with other new immigrants, learning how to reproduce the tastes of home with unfamiliar ingredients in a new place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Decades later, that soup-slurping girl has become one of the Bay Area's best-known and best-respected experts on Asian home cooking. She's a popular cooking teacher and the author of numerous cookbooks, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/160774533X/kqedorg-20\">The Banh Mi Handbook\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1580089755/kqedorg-20\">Asian Dumplings\u003c/a>. Her many fans follow her writings (and travels) on her website, \u003ca href=\"http://www.vietworldkitchen.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Viet World Kitchen\u003c/a> and she's become the go-to Asian cooking guide at the high-tech DIY cooking site ChefSteps, with recipes for Shanghai soup dumplings and a post-Thanksgiving \u003ca href=\"https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/leftover-turkey-make-pho-with-andrea-nguyen\" target=\"_blank\">turkey pho\u003c/a>. She added a thoughtful, measured voice to the clamor over cultural appropriation in cuisine with an NPR essay \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/09/13/dont-call-it-the-new-ramen-why-pho-is-central-to-vietnamese-identity/\" target=\"_blank\">Don't Call It the New Ramen: Why Pho is Central to Vietnamese Identity\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Years of teaching have given her a sixth sense of where and how a home cook might stumble in navigating unfamiliar ingredients and tricky techniques, and so her books are filled with clear, easy-to-follow explanations and foolproof troubleshooting. And for those who want to know the why as much as the how, she's an eager and diligent researcher and storyteller. Her books are a valuable resource for anyone interested in the complex social and geographical history of deceptively simple dishes we might take for granted in cosmopolitan, diversely populated cities like San Francisco, Oakland, or San Jose. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her latest book, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Pho-Cookbook-Adventurous-Vietnams-Favorite/dp/1607749580/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487015227&sr=8-1&keywords=pho+cookbook\">The Pho Cookbook\u003c/a>, was released by Ten Speed Press on February 7, 2017. We caught up with Nyugen by phone from her home near Santa Cruz. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>When did you first start working on The Pho Cookbook? And why pho, now?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Andrea Nguyen:\u003c/strong> The Banh Mi Handbook came out in 2014, so I probably started talking about this one in early 2015. I'd been teaching pho classes in person and online at \u003ca href=\"https://www.craftsy.com/cooking/classes/vietnamese-classics-pho-noodles-beyond/35320\" target=\"_blank\">Craftsy\u003c/a> for a long time, and a lot of my students kept saying that I should write a book about pho. My first reaction was \"Why?\" I had two recipes that I taught; I didn't think I had much to say. But my publisher, Ten Speed Press, suggested that I think about it; they were confident that I'd have enough to say. I realized I'd been researching pho for a while, and also thinking and writing about my relationship to it. Especially after we left Vietnam when I was six years old, my family didn't have many possessions. We just had our memories. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>When were you finally able to go back to Vietnam?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> I've been going back since 2003. One of the first things I had on my first trip back to Hanoi was pho. Things were still sleepy there then. We went directly from the airport to a tiny little pho place I'd read about somewhere. It was very small, definitely locals only, with low wooden benches. Everyone had all their belongings on their laps, because there was no place to put them. You just leaned over your bowl and ate. My husband was the only white person there, and I was obviously a foreigner too, but two older men on the benches across from us kept nodding and smiling, approving of my husband eating pho. We have pho nearly every morning when we go back. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115452\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho.jpg\" alt=\"The Pho Cookbook. Saigon-style beef pho.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115452\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pho Cookbook. Saigon-style beef pho. \u003ccite>(John Lee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Is the pho you make at home different from what's served in Vietnam now?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> In 2008, I had a chance to go back to Vietnam on a press trip. I really wanted to go to the Metropole Hotel in Hanoi. There are two women who have been cooking there since the 1960s. I was able to go into the kitchen and meet them, and they told me they had read my book [\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Into-Vietnamese-Kitchen-Treasured-Foodways/dp/1580086659\" target=\"_blank\">Into the Vietnamese Kitchen\u003c/a>] and that I had to stop using yellow onion in my pho! They told me only to use shallots, and not to put sugar in my broth [a South Vietnamese tradition] if I wanted to make a true Hanoi pho. But when my mother came here, shallots were hard to find and too expensive; yellow onions were what she could get. She would get on the phone, and she and her friends would trade tips and secrets; they gathered intel and that's how they put dishes together. So this book is really a combination of American and Vietnamese recipes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Is pho evolving? I love how you describe certain flavors (and dishes) as \"pho-ish\" and how, as a cook, you know you've got it right--whether it's broth or a stir-fry or even a cocktail--when it has that certain \"pho-ish\" quality, that essence or spirit of pho.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> It's a very creative dish, it keeps evolving. I want people to become part of the pho story. It started 100 years ago; now, in Los Angeles, there are pho cocktails and pho burritos. In Brooklyn, I've had pho soup dumplings and pho beef dip sandwiches. In Hanoi, I've seen fried pho, where the noodles were batter-coated and deep-fried. You can get brown rice noodles here, but I've seen them in Vietnamese supermarkets, too. There are dried noodles, instant pho powders, instant noodle kits. It's not fixed, it's a very modern dish that people can plug into at all levels and cook, whether or not they want to go to Asian markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>You have a seafood pho, and several vegetarian and vegan versions, too, which seems very appropriate to the Bay Area.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> When my mother heard about my seafood pho, she said \"I hope you never put THAT in the book!\" But it's delicious, and I've had lobster pho, pho with all kinds of seafood. And Vietnam has tons of Buddhists [who don't eat meat], and they need pho too! People need to push their pho-rizons. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Your book taught me that the word \"pho\" means both the traditional brothy soup and the rice noodles themselves. The book includes numerous non-soup recipes, from noodle-based stir-fries to rice-noodle rolls, as well as some inventive salads and dipping sauces. In Vietnam, pho is mostly a breakfast or quick lunch dish; in fact, in the book, you tell a story of making a special trip to Nam Dinh, the birthplace of pho, but missing out because by 9AM, when you arrived, all the pho shops had sold out for the day. Did you have to adjust the book to match how American cooks (and eaters) approach this dish?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> I found that, during my teaching, I got a lot of questions after the class from students saying \"I want to show my friends how I'm really good at making pho now. What else can I serve?\" They were asking how they could entertain with pho. So I added snacks, appetizers, Vietnamese coffee, even cocktails. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>What's the audience for this book? Who's going to read it?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> People who are really interested in making pho! I think it starts with people who have eaten it in neighborhood restaurants, who liked it and wanted to figure it out. It's beef noodle soup; it can't be that complicated. Over the years, I've talked to thousands of people who ask me questions about Asian cooking, about sourcing ingredients, about making food that's unfamiliar. There's so much intimidation about this. I try to take a certain Home Depot approach, like \"You can do it, and I can help!\" As a cookbook author, you're really just there to coach people along. If they're happy, I'm thrilled. The Quick Chicken Pho is a great gateway recipe. Then there's the \"real\" restaurant-style recipe, with homemade broth, and the \"middle path\" of the pressure-cooker recipes, for people who don't have a lot of time but still want to DIY. I hope it makes pho accessible to a lot of different people. In Vietnam, it's a food for everyone. \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Events:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>On Feb. 16, Andrea Nguyen will be signing books at \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a>, 3885a Church St., San Francisco. 6:30-7:30pm, free.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>On Mar 8, Andrea Nguyen will be doing a cooking demonstration and tasting at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.jccsf.org/arts-ideas/andrea-nguyen/\" target=\"_blank\">JJCC SF\u003c/a>, 3200 California St, San Francisco. 7pm, general admission tickets $18.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115251\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Pho-Cookbook_Quick-Chicken-Pho-e1487012131406.jpg\" alt=\"Berkeley, CA – March 22-25, 2016: The Pho Cookbook. Quick Chix Pho. \" width=\"2000\" height=\"2667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115251\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pho Cookbook. Quick Chix Pho. \u003ccite>(Photo by John Lee. Copyright John Lee Pictures)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Quick Chicken Pho (phở gà nhanh)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Great for pho beginners, this recipe is also terrific for cooks in a hurry. It takes less than 45 minutes, during which you’ll doctor up store-bought broth so it says, “I’m pho-ish.” Choose a broth that tastes like chicken, such as Swanson brand, which is less fussed up and easy to manipulate. You need two 14.5-ounce (411 g) cans or one 32-ounce (907 ml) carton. Stocked at many supermarkets, La Baleine sea salt, Annie Chun pad Thai rice noodles, and Megachef fish sauce work well for this recipe. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>3⁄4-inch (2 cm) section fresh ginger\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 medium-large green onions\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 very small (.5 oz | 15 g) bunch cilantro sprigs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1⁄2 teaspoons coriander seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 whole clove\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 1⁄2 to 4 cups (840 ml to 1 l) low-sodium chicken broth\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cups (480 ml) water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 (6 to 8 oz | 180 to 225 g) boneless, skinless chicken breast or thigh\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>About 1⁄2 teaspoon fine sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>5 ounces (150 g) dried narrow flat rice noodles\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 to 3 teaspoons fish sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>About 1⁄2 teaspoon organic sugar, or 1 teaspoon maple syrup (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pepper (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Optional extras: Bean sprouts, chile slices, mint sprigs, Thai basil, hoisin, sriracha, or Ginger Lime Dipping Sauce (see Note below)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Peel then slice the ginger into 4 or 5 coins. Smack with the flat side of a knife or meat mallet; set aside. Thinly slice the green parts of the green onion to yield 2 to 3 tablespoons; set aside for garnish. Cut the leftover sections into pinkie-finger lengths, bruise, then add to the ginger.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Coarsely chop the leafy tops of the cilantro to yield 2 tablespoons; set aside for garnish. Set the remaining cilantro sprigs aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a 3- to 4-quart (3 to 4 l) pot, toast the coriander seeds and clove over medium heat until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the ginger and green onion sections. Stir for about 30 seconds, until aromatic. Slide the pot off heat, wait 15 seconds or so to briefly cool, then pour in the broth.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Return the pot to the burner, then add the water, cilantro sprigs, chicken, and salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat to gently simmer for 30 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While the broth simmers, soak the rice noodles in hot water until pliable and opaque. Drain, rinse, and set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>After 5 to 10 minutes of simmering, the chicken should be firm and cooked through (press on it and it should slightly yield). Transfer the chicken to a bowl, flush with cold water to arrest the cooking, then drain. Let cool, then cut or shred into bite-size pieces. Cover loosely to prevent drying.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>When the broth is done, pour it through a fine-mesh strainer positioned over a 2-quart (2 l) pot; line the strainer with muslin for superclear broth. Discard the solids. You should have about 4 cups (1 l). Season with fish sauce and sugar (or maple syrup), if needed, to create a strong savory-sweet note.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring the strained broth to a boil over high heat. Put the noodles in a noodle strainer or mesh sieve and dunk in the hot broth to heat and soften, 5 to 60 seconds. Lift the noodles from the pot and divide between the 2 bowls.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Lower the heat to keep the broth hot while you arrange the chicken on top of the noodles and garnish with the chopped green onion, cilantro, and a sprinkling of pepper. Taste and adjust the broth’s saltiness one last time. Return the broth to a boil and ladle into the bowls. Enjoy with any extras, if you like.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Notes:\u003c/strong> For a Ginger Lime Dipping sauce to dip the chicken into as you eat, combine 1 packed tablespoon peeled and finely chopped ginger, 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice, generous 1 tablespoon sugar, 1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce, and 1 teaspoon finely chopped seeded Fresno or jalapeño chile. Rest 15 minutes before serving. \u003c/p>\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted and reprinted with permission from The Pho Cookbook: Easy to Adventurous Recipes for Vietnam’s Favorite Soup and Noodles by Andrea Nguyen, copyright © 2017. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House LLC.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen digs into the joys of pho with Andrea Nguyen, author of The Pho Cookbook. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1487321387,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":25,"wordCount":2319},"headData":{"title":"The Pho Cookbook: Interview with Andrea Nguyen | KQED","description":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen digs into the joys of pho with Andrea Nguyen, author of The Pho Cookbook. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The Pho Cookbook: Interview with Andrea Nguyen","datePublished":"2017-02-13T20:05:33.000Z","dateModified":"2017-02-17T08:49:47.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"115191 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=115191","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/02/13/the-pho-cookbook-interview-with-andrea-nguyen/","disqusTitle":"The Pho Cookbook: Interview with Andrea Nguyen","source":"Cookbooks","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/books-and-magazines/","path":"/bayareabites/115191/the-pho-cookbook-interview-with-andrea-nguyen","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In Vietnam, when Andrea Nguyen was five years old, she impressed her parents--and the owners of their local pho shop--with her noodle-soup dexterity. Chopsticks in one hand, soup spoon in the other, she scooped and slurped like a pro, emptying her bowl of aromatic beef broth, slippery rice noodles, and slices of meat with an ear-to-ear grin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115249\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-1020x1530.jpg\" alt=\"Andrea Nguyen, author of The Pho Cookbook\" width=\"640\" height=\"960\" class=\"size-large wp-image-115249\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-960x1440.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-375x563.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson-520x780.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Andrea-Nguyen-by-Genevieve-Pierson.jpg 1365w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andrea Nguyen, author of The Pho Cookbook \u003ccite>(Genevieve Pierson )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A year later, in 1975, Nguyen's family left Vietnam as refugees, finding a new home in Orange County. \"We gained freedom,\" said Nguyen, \"but we lost pho shops.\" The shops, restaurants, and markets that would become \u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com/food-wine/flavors-of-the-west/guide-little-saigon\" target=\"_blank\">Little Saigon\u003c/a> were still some years away. Instead, homemade pho became a Sunday-morning family staple as her mother traded tips with other new immigrants, learning how to reproduce the tastes of home with unfamiliar ingredients in a new place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Decades later, that soup-slurping girl has become one of the Bay Area's best-known and best-respected experts on Asian home cooking. She's a popular cooking teacher and the author of numerous cookbooks, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/160774533X/kqedorg-20\">The Banh Mi Handbook\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1580089755/kqedorg-20\">Asian Dumplings\u003c/a>. Her many fans follow her writings (and travels) on her website, \u003ca href=\"http://www.vietworldkitchen.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Viet World Kitchen\u003c/a> and she's become the go-to Asian cooking guide at the high-tech DIY cooking site ChefSteps, with recipes for Shanghai soup dumplings and a post-Thanksgiving \u003ca href=\"https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/leftover-turkey-make-pho-with-andrea-nguyen\" target=\"_blank\">turkey pho\u003c/a>. She added a thoughtful, measured voice to the clamor over cultural appropriation in cuisine with an NPR essay \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/09/13/dont-call-it-the-new-ramen-why-pho-is-central-to-vietnamese-identity/\" target=\"_blank\">Don't Call It the New Ramen: Why Pho is Central to Vietnamese Identity\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Years of teaching have given her a sixth sense of where and how a home cook might stumble in navigating unfamiliar ingredients and tricky techniques, and so her books are filled with clear, easy-to-follow explanations and foolproof troubleshooting. And for those who want to know the why as much as the how, she's an eager and diligent researcher and storyteller. Her books are a valuable resource for anyone interested in the complex social and geographical history of deceptively simple dishes we might take for granted in cosmopolitan, diversely populated cities like San Francisco, Oakland, or San Jose. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her latest book, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Pho-Cookbook-Adventurous-Vietnams-Favorite/dp/1607749580/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487015227&sr=8-1&keywords=pho+cookbook\">The Pho Cookbook\u003c/a>, was released by Ten Speed Press on February 7, 2017. We caught up with Nyugen by phone from her home near Santa Cruz. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>When did you first start working on The Pho Cookbook? And why pho, now?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Andrea Nguyen:\u003c/strong> The Banh Mi Handbook came out in 2014, so I probably started talking about this one in early 2015. I'd been teaching pho classes in person and online at \u003ca href=\"https://www.craftsy.com/cooking/classes/vietnamese-classics-pho-noodles-beyond/35320\" target=\"_blank\">Craftsy\u003c/a> for a long time, and a lot of my students kept saying that I should write a book about pho. My first reaction was \"Why?\" I had two recipes that I taught; I didn't think I had much to say. But my publisher, Ten Speed Press, suggested that I think about it; they were confident that I'd have enough to say. I realized I'd been researching pho for a while, and also thinking and writing about my relationship to it. Especially after we left Vietnam when I was six years old, my family didn't have many possessions. We just had our memories. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>When were you finally able to go back to Vietnam?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> I've been going back since 2003. One of the first things I had on my first trip back to Hanoi was pho. Things were still sleepy there then. We went directly from the airport to a tiny little pho place I'd read about somewhere. It was very small, definitely locals only, with low wooden benches. Everyone had all their belongings on their laps, because there was no place to put them. You just leaned over your bowl and ate. My husband was the only white person there, and I was obviously a foreigner too, but two older men on the benches across from us kept nodding and smiling, approving of my husband eating pho. We have pho nearly every morning when we go back. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115452\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho.jpg\" alt=\"The Pho Cookbook. Saigon-style beef pho.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115452\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/saigon-style-beef-pho-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pho Cookbook. Saigon-style beef pho. \u003ccite>(John Lee)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Is the pho you make at home different from what's served in Vietnam now?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> In 2008, I had a chance to go back to Vietnam on a press trip. I really wanted to go to the Metropole Hotel in Hanoi. There are two women who have been cooking there since the 1960s. I was able to go into the kitchen and meet them, and they told me they had read my book [\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Into-Vietnamese-Kitchen-Treasured-Foodways/dp/1580086659\" target=\"_blank\">Into the Vietnamese Kitchen\u003c/a>] and that I had to stop using yellow onion in my pho! They told me only to use shallots, and not to put sugar in my broth [a South Vietnamese tradition] if I wanted to make a true Hanoi pho. But when my mother came here, shallots were hard to find and too expensive; yellow onions were what she could get. She would get on the phone, and she and her friends would trade tips and secrets; they gathered intel and that's how they put dishes together. So this book is really a combination of American and Vietnamese recipes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Is pho evolving? I love how you describe certain flavors (and dishes) as \"pho-ish\" and how, as a cook, you know you've got it right--whether it's broth or a stir-fry or even a cocktail--when it has that certain \"pho-ish\" quality, that essence or spirit of pho.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> It's a very creative dish, it keeps evolving. I want people to become part of the pho story. It started 100 years ago; now, in Los Angeles, there are pho cocktails and pho burritos. In Brooklyn, I've had pho soup dumplings and pho beef dip sandwiches. In Hanoi, I've seen fried pho, where the noodles were batter-coated and deep-fried. You can get brown rice noodles here, but I've seen them in Vietnamese supermarkets, too. There are dried noodles, instant pho powders, instant noodle kits. It's not fixed, it's a very modern dish that people can plug into at all levels and cook, whether or not they want to go to Asian markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>You have a seafood pho, and several vegetarian and vegan versions, too, which seems very appropriate to the Bay Area.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> When my mother heard about my seafood pho, she said \"I hope you never put THAT in the book!\" But it's delicious, and I've had lobster pho, pho with all kinds of seafood. And Vietnam has tons of Buddhists [who don't eat meat], and they need pho too! People need to push their pho-rizons. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Your book taught me that the word \"pho\" means both the traditional brothy soup and the rice noodles themselves. The book includes numerous non-soup recipes, from noodle-based stir-fries to rice-noodle rolls, as well as some inventive salads and dipping sauces. In Vietnam, pho is mostly a breakfast or quick lunch dish; in fact, in the book, you tell a story of making a special trip to Nam Dinh, the birthplace of pho, but missing out because by 9AM, when you arrived, all the pho shops had sold out for the day. Did you have to adjust the book to match how American cooks (and eaters) approach this dish?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> I found that, during my teaching, I got a lot of questions after the class from students saying \"I want to show my friends how I'm really good at making pho now. What else can I serve?\" They were asking how they could entertain with pho. So I added snacks, appetizers, Vietnamese coffee, even cocktails. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>What's the audience for this book? Who's going to read it?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nguyen:\u003c/strong> People who are really interested in making pho! I think it starts with people who have eaten it in neighborhood restaurants, who liked it and wanted to figure it out. It's beef noodle soup; it can't be that complicated. Over the years, I've talked to thousands of people who ask me questions about Asian cooking, about sourcing ingredients, about making food that's unfamiliar. There's so much intimidation about this. I try to take a certain Home Depot approach, like \"You can do it, and I can help!\" As a cookbook author, you're really just there to coach people along. If they're happy, I'm thrilled. The Quick Chicken Pho is a great gateway recipe. Then there's the \"real\" restaurant-style recipe, with homemade broth, and the \"middle path\" of the pressure-cooker recipes, for people who don't have a lot of time but still want to DIY. I hope it makes pho accessible to a lot of different people. In Vietnam, it's a food for everyone. \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Events:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>On Feb. 16, Andrea Nguyen will be signing books at \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a>, 3885a Church St., San Francisco. 6:30-7:30pm, free.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>On Mar 8, Andrea Nguyen will be doing a cooking demonstration and tasting at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.jccsf.org/arts-ideas/andrea-nguyen/\" target=\"_blank\">JJCC SF\u003c/a>, 3200 California St, San Francisco. 7pm, general admission tickets $18.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_115251\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/02/Pho-Cookbook_Quick-Chicken-Pho-e1487012131406.jpg\" alt=\"Berkeley, CA – March 22-25, 2016: The Pho Cookbook. Quick Chix Pho. \" width=\"2000\" height=\"2667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-115251\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Pho Cookbook. Quick Chix Pho. \u003ccite>(Photo by John Lee. Copyright John Lee Pictures)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Quick Chicken Pho (phở gà nhanh)\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Great for pho beginners, this recipe is also terrific for cooks in a hurry. It takes less than 45 minutes, during which you’ll doctor up store-bought broth so it says, “I’m pho-ish.” Choose a broth that tastes like chicken, such as Swanson brand, which is less fussed up and easy to manipulate. You need two 14.5-ounce (411 g) cans or one 32-ounce (907 ml) carton. Stocked at many supermarkets, La Baleine sea salt, Annie Chun pad Thai rice noodles, and Megachef fish sauce work well for this recipe. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>3⁄4-inch (2 cm) section fresh ginger\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 medium-large green onions\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 very small (.5 oz | 15 g) bunch cilantro sprigs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1⁄2 teaspoons coriander seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 whole clove\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 1⁄2 to 4 cups (840 ml to 1 l) low-sodium chicken broth\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cups (480 ml) water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 (6 to 8 oz | 180 to 225 g) boneless, skinless chicken breast or thigh\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>About 1⁄2 teaspoon fine sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>5 ounces (150 g) dried narrow flat rice noodles\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 to 3 teaspoons fish sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>About 1⁄2 teaspoon organic sugar, or 1 teaspoon maple syrup (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pepper (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Optional extras: Bean sprouts, chile slices, mint sprigs, Thai basil, hoisin, sriracha, or Ginger Lime Dipping Sauce (see Note below)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Peel then slice the ginger into 4 or 5 coins. Smack with the flat side of a knife or meat mallet; set aside. Thinly slice the green parts of the green onion to yield 2 to 3 tablespoons; set aside for garnish. Cut the leftover sections into pinkie-finger lengths, bruise, then add to the ginger.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Coarsely chop the leafy tops of the cilantro to yield 2 tablespoons; set aside for garnish. Set the remaining cilantro sprigs aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a 3- to 4-quart (3 to 4 l) pot, toast the coriander seeds and clove over medium heat until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the ginger and green onion sections. Stir for about 30 seconds, until aromatic. Slide the pot off heat, wait 15 seconds or so to briefly cool, then pour in the broth.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Return the pot to the burner, then add the water, cilantro sprigs, chicken, and salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat to gently simmer for 30 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>While the broth simmers, soak the rice noodles in hot water until pliable and opaque. Drain, rinse, and set aside.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>After 5 to 10 minutes of simmering, the chicken should be firm and cooked through (press on it and it should slightly yield). Transfer the chicken to a bowl, flush with cold water to arrest the cooking, then drain. Let cool, then cut or shred into bite-size pieces. Cover loosely to prevent drying.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>When the broth is done, pour it through a fine-mesh strainer positioned over a 2-quart (2 l) pot; line the strainer with muslin for superclear broth. Discard the solids. You should have about 4 cups (1 l). Season with fish sauce and sugar (or maple syrup), if needed, to create a strong savory-sweet note.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring the strained broth to a boil over high heat. Put the noodles in a noodle strainer or mesh sieve and dunk in the hot broth to heat and soften, 5 to 60 seconds. Lift the noodles from the pot and divide between the 2 bowls.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Lower the heat to keep the broth hot while you arrange the chicken on top of the noodles and garnish with the chopped green onion, cilantro, and a sprinkling of pepper. Taste and adjust the broth’s saltiness one last time. Return the broth to a boil and ladle into the bowls. Enjoy with any extras, if you like.\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Notes:\u003c/strong> For a Ginger Lime Dipping sauce to dip the chicken into as you eat, combine 1 packed tablespoon peeled and finely chopped ginger, 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice, generous 1 tablespoon sugar, 1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce, and 1 teaspoon finely chopped seeded Fresno or jalapeño chile. Rest 15 minutes before serving. \u003c/p>\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted and reprinted with permission from The Pho Cookbook: Easy to Adventurous Recipes for Vietnam’s Favorite Soup and Noodles by Andrea Nguyen, copyright © 2017. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House LLC.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/115191/the-pho-cookbook-interview-with-andrea-nguyen","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_1278","bayareabites_10756","bayareabites_1130"],"featImg":"bayareabites_115250","label":"source_bayareabites_115191"},"bayareabites_93275":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_93275","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"93275","score":null,"sort":[1424370549000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"40-years-of-vietnamese-food-in-california-a-conversation-with-andrew-lam","title":"40 Years of Vietnamese Food in California: A Conversation with Andrew Lam","publishDate":1424370549,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93333\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Hu-Tieu-1200.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-93333\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Hu-Tieu-1200.jpg\" alt=\"There’s no one way to prepare hủ tiếu, a noodle dish that could be considered a cousin of the more famous phở, but Dalat, one of the oldest restaurants in San Jose, is well respected for its version. Photo: Rachael Myrow\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Hu-Tieu-1200.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Hu-Tieu-1200-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Hu-Tieu-1200-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Hu-Tieu-1200-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Hu-Tieu-1200-320x240.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">There’s no one way to prepare hủ tiếu, a noodle dish that could be considered a cousin of the more famous phở, but Dalat, one of the oldest restaurants in San Jose, is well respected for its version. Photo: Rachael Myrow\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like many Americans, I'm highly suggestible when it comes to food. Tell me that Tết has arrived, for example, and I'm suddenly, compulsively in the mood for Vietnamese food. This Lunar New Year has a special historical resonance, too: we're coming up on the 40th anniversary of the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fall_of_Saigon\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Fall of Saigon\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't long after 1975 that \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/dalat-restaurant-san-jose\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Dalat\u003c/a> opened in San Jose, one of California's twin hubs for Vietnamese culture in California, along with Orange County. Today, Dalat is a popular brunch and lunch destination, especially for those in the mood for hủ tiếu, a noodle dish that could be considered a cousin of the phenomenally famous phở.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's no one way to prepare hủ tiếu, but Andrew Lam is game to try describing the dish. He's a writer and editor with \u003ca href=\"http://newamericamedia.org/author/andrew-lam/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">New American Media\u003c/a> and the author of three books, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/East-Eats-West-Writing-Hemispheres/dp/1597141380\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">East Eats West\u003c/a>. Hủ tiếu, he says, is \"kind of pan-Asian,\" something the South Vietnamese borrowed from neighbors in Cambodia, Thailand and China and then proceeded to modify. This mashup approach appears to be a theme with Vietnamese cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93339\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Andrew-digs-in-1200.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-93339\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Andrew-digs-in-1200.jpg\" alt=\"Andrew Lam digs in at Dalet in San Jose. Photo: Rachael Myrow\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Andrew-digs-in-1200.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Andrew-digs-in-1200-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Andrew-digs-in-1200-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Andrew-digs-in-1200-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Andrew-digs-in-1200-320x240.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andrew Lam digs in at Dalet in San Jose. Photo: Rachael Myrow\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The way Dalat makes it, there's a lovely pork bone-based broth, rice noodle, shrimp, crab, sliced pork, green onion, cilantro, sauteed garlic and shallots. \"Especially Southern dishes tend to have a lot of herbs and vegetables, cause it's a tropical world,\" says Lam. A lot of Vietnamese like to order it with the soup on the side and the noodle dry, and that's how we order it, spooning the broth over the noodles. For those game to try this at home, here's \u003ca href=\"http://vietworldkitchen.typepad.com/blog/2007/11/hu-tieu-nam-van.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">one recipe\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the first days after the Vietnam War, refugees landed in many cities throughout the United States. They began to gather in large numbers in San Jose in the 1980s to take advantage of the manufacturing work available in Silicon Valley. A couple of entrepreneurs, Chieu Le and Henry Le, had a stroke of brilliance: Why not serve banh mi to the hungry masses at lunch out of a food truck? Thus, the chain \u003ca href=\"http://leesandwiches.com/mobile/home.php?act=prodetail&catid=8\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Lee's Sandwiches\u003c/a> was born.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Vietnamese sandwich grew out of French colonialism and the introduction of the baguette, pate, carrots, and mayonnaise. Add chili peppers, cilantro, daikon, and any one of a wide variety of meats or tofu prepared in a Vietnamese fashion, and you have banh mi. Change Le to Lee and you have a going business proposition in the U.S., a business with 55 locations across the American West. Of course, there's no one right way to make banh mi, and aside from the California addition of the jalepeno, chefs are experimenting with a seemingly infinite number of \u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/food-news/112081/the-ever-morphing-banh-mi/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">permutations\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another Vietnamese immigrant, David Tran, came up with the version of sriracha many of us are now addicted to. \u003ca href=\"http://www.huyfong.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Huy Fong Foods\u003c/a> of Irwindale in Southern California makes a hot sauce so ubiquitous on restaurant tables of all kinds, Lam says \"It's become sort of like ketchup.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By far, the most successful Vietnamese import is pho. Lam muses \"You can tell your dish is successful when \u003ca href=\"http://www.rachaelrayshow.com/recipe/14255_Phunky_BBQ_Pho_with_Pork/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Rachel Ray\u003c/a> kind of screws it up! You know, it's when someone else teaches your mother's cooking back to you, that's when it transcends ethnic borders to become universal. What once belonged to you, now belongs to the world. Which is the natural progression, I think, of globalization.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwqmwAGXXk8]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I suppose it's fair to say all food is fair game for reinterpretation, but Ray does mispronounce sriracha. (Say \"sir-RAH-cha\").\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pho is served in a variety of ways in Vietnam. In the North, you don't find the profusion of herbs you find in the South. It's as much a function of geography as anything else, as the South is warmer. Lam has been back to Vietnam several times, and he says pho here in California is notably different from what gets served in the home country. The biggest difference? Portion size. Americans have super-sized their pho. \"In America, what you call extra large is big enough for a family in Vietnam.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93335\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/goi-mit-tom-thit-1200.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-93335\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/goi-mit-tom-thit-1200.jpg\" alt=\"Gỏi sứa tôm thịt: Shrimp, jelly fish, pork, lotus stems, mint, peanut, cilantro, carrots, daikon = delicious! Photo: Rachael Myrow\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/goi-mit-tom-thit-1200.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/goi-mit-tom-thit-1200-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/goi-mit-tom-thit-1200-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/goi-mit-tom-thit-1200-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/goi-mit-tom-thit-1200-320x240.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gỏi sứa tôm thịt: Shrimp, jelly fish, pork, lotus stems, mint, peanut, cilantro, carrots, daikon = delicious! Photo: Rachael Myrow\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the palate of many Californians grows more sophisticated and adventurous, Lam has no doubt Vietnamese cuisine has other culinary blockbusters waiting in the wings. \"People want that kind of authentic cooking.\"\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"In the 40 years since Vietnamese came to California in great numbers, they've given us three culinary blockbusters: pho, banh mi and sriracha sauce. \"What once belonged to you, now belongs to the world,\" says author Andrew Lam.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1617137627,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":true,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":14,"wordCount":835},"headData":{"title":"40 Years of Vietnamese Food in California: A Conversation with Andrew Lam | KQED","description":"In the 40 years since Vietnamese came to California in great numbers, they've given us three culinary blockbusters: pho, banh mi and sriracha sauce. "What once belonged to you, now belongs to the world," says author Andrew Lam.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"40 Years of Vietnamese Food in California: A Conversation with Andrew Lam","datePublished":"2015-02-19T18:29:09.000Z","dateModified":"2021-03-30T20:53:47.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"93275 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=93275","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/02/19/40-years-of-vietnamese-food-in-california-a-conversation-with-andrew-lam/","disqusTitle":"40 Years of Vietnamese Food in California: A Conversation with Andrew Lam","path":"/bayareabites/93275/40-years-of-vietnamese-food-in-california-a-conversation-with-andrew-lam","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93333\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Hu-Tieu-1200.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-93333\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Hu-Tieu-1200.jpg\" alt=\"There’s no one way to prepare hủ tiếu, a noodle dish that could be considered a cousin of the more famous phở, but Dalat, one of the oldest restaurants in San Jose, is well respected for its version. Photo: Rachael Myrow\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Hu-Tieu-1200.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Hu-Tieu-1200-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Hu-Tieu-1200-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Hu-Tieu-1200-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Hu-Tieu-1200-320x240.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">There’s no one way to prepare hủ tiếu, a noodle dish that could be considered a cousin of the more famous phở, but Dalat, one of the oldest restaurants in San Jose, is well respected for its version. Photo: Rachael Myrow\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like many Americans, I'm highly suggestible when it comes to food. Tell me that Tết has arrived, for example, and I'm suddenly, compulsively in the mood for Vietnamese food. This Lunar New Year has a special historical resonance, too: we're coming up on the 40th anniversary of the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fall_of_Saigon\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Fall of Saigon\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't long after 1975 that \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/dalat-restaurant-san-jose\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Dalat\u003c/a> opened in San Jose, one of California's twin hubs for Vietnamese culture in California, along with Orange County. Today, Dalat is a popular brunch and lunch destination, especially for those in the mood for hủ tiếu, a noodle dish that could be considered a cousin of the phenomenally famous phở.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's no one way to prepare hủ tiếu, but Andrew Lam is game to try describing the dish. He's a writer and editor with \u003ca href=\"http://newamericamedia.org/author/andrew-lam/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">New American Media\u003c/a> and the author of three books, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/East-Eats-West-Writing-Hemispheres/dp/1597141380\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">East Eats West\u003c/a>. Hủ tiếu, he says, is \"kind of pan-Asian,\" something the South Vietnamese borrowed from neighbors in Cambodia, Thailand and China and then proceeded to modify. This mashup approach appears to be a theme with Vietnamese cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93339\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Andrew-digs-in-1200.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-93339\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Andrew-digs-in-1200.jpg\" alt=\"Andrew Lam digs in at Dalet in San Jose. Photo: Rachael Myrow\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Andrew-digs-in-1200.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Andrew-digs-in-1200-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Andrew-digs-in-1200-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Andrew-digs-in-1200-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/Andrew-digs-in-1200-320x240.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andrew Lam digs in at Dalet in San Jose. Photo: Rachael Myrow\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The way Dalat makes it, there's a lovely pork bone-based broth, rice noodle, shrimp, crab, sliced pork, green onion, cilantro, sauteed garlic and shallots. \"Especially Southern dishes tend to have a lot of herbs and vegetables, cause it's a tropical world,\" says Lam. A lot of Vietnamese like to order it with the soup on the side and the noodle dry, and that's how we order it, spooning the broth over the noodles. For those game to try this at home, here's \u003ca href=\"http://vietworldkitchen.typepad.com/blog/2007/11/hu-tieu-nam-van.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">one recipe\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the first days after the Vietnam War, refugees landed in many cities throughout the United States. They began to gather in large numbers in San Jose in the 1980s to take advantage of the manufacturing work available in Silicon Valley. A couple of entrepreneurs, Chieu Le and Henry Le, had a stroke of brilliance: Why not serve banh mi to the hungry masses at lunch out of a food truck? Thus, the chain \u003ca href=\"http://leesandwiches.com/mobile/home.php?act=prodetail&catid=8\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Lee's Sandwiches\u003c/a> was born.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Vietnamese sandwich grew out of French colonialism and the introduction of the baguette, pate, carrots, and mayonnaise. Add chili peppers, cilantro, daikon, and any one of a wide variety of meats or tofu prepared in a Vietnamese fashion, and you have banh mi. Change Le to Lee and you have a going business proposition in the U.S., a business with 55 locations across the American West. Of course, there's no one right way to make banh mi, and aside from the California addition of the jalepeno, chefs are experimenting with a seemingly infinite number of \u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/food-news/112081/the-ever-morphing-banh-mi/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">permutations\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another Vietnamese immigrant, David Tran, came up with the version of sriracha many of us are now addicted to. \u003ca href=\"http://www.huyfong.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Huy Fong Foods\u003c/a> of Irwindale in Southern California makes a hot sauce so ubiquitous on restaurant tables of all kinds, Lam says \"It's become sort of like ketchup.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By far, the most successful Vietnamese import is pho. Lam muses \"You can tell your dish is successful when \u003ca href=\"http://www.rachaelrayshow.com/recipe/14255_Phunky_BBQ_Pho_with_Pork/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Rachel Ray\u003c/a> kind of screws it up! You know, it's when someone else teaches your mother's cooking back to you, that's when it transcends ethnic borders to become universal. What once belonged to you, now belongs to the world. Which is the natural progression, I think, of globalization.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/uwqmwAGXXk8'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/uwqmwAGXXk8'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I suppose it's fair to say all food is fair game for reinterpretation, but Ray does mispronounce sriracha. (Say \"sir-RAH-cha\").\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pho is served in a variety of ways in Vietnam. In the North, you don't find the profusion of herbs you find in the South. It's as much a function of geography as anything else, as the South is warmer. Lam has been back to Vietnam several times, and he says pho here in California is notably different from what gets served in the home country. The biggest difference? Portion size. Americans have super-sized their pho. \"In America, what you call extra large is big enough for a family in Vietnam.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93335\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/goi-mit-tom-thit-1200.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-93335\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/goi-mit-tom-thit-1200.jpg\" alt=\"Gỏi sứa tôm thịt: Shrimp, jelly fish, pork, lotus stems, mint, peanut, cilantro, carrots, daikon = delicious! Photo: Rachael Myrow\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/goi-mit-tom-thit-1200.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/goi-mit-tom-thit-1200-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/goi-mit-tom-thit-1200-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/goi-mit-tom-thit-1200-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/02/goi-mit-tom-thit-1200-320x240.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gỏi sứa tôm thịt: Shrimp, jelly fish, pork, lotus stems, mint, peanut, cilantro, carrots, daikon = delicious! Photo: Rachael Myrow\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the palate of many Californians grows more sophisticated and adventurous, Lam has no doubt Vietnamese cuisine has other culinary blockbusters waiting in the wings. \"People want that kind of authentic cooking.\"\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/93275/40-years-of-vietnamese-food-in-california-a-conversation-with-andrew-lam","authors":["251"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_265","bayareabites_91"],"tags":["bayareabites_10749","bayareabites_14163","bayareabites_3529","bayareabites_1278","bayareabites_17080","bayareabites_14752","bayareabites_8900","bayareabites_8892","bayareabites_68","bayareabites_10756","bayareabites_17079"],"featImg":"bayareabites_93333","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_79934":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_79934","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"79934","score":null,"sort":[1397781690000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"food-spirituality-a-visit-to-charles-phans-home-kitchen","title":"Food & Spirituality: A Visit to Charles Phan's Home Kitchen","publishDate":1397781690,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Charles Phan is a local boy, through and through: before he became a celebrity chef with the runaway success of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a>, he went to UC Berkeley and Mission High School. He spent his teen years in San Francisco's Chinatown and recalls it nostalgically, even though his family struggled financially at the time. In the 1970s, his mother was making $2 an hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Phan employs more than 20 of his relatives at \u003ca href=\"www.slanteddoor.com/restaurants\">eight\u003c/a> restaurants in San Francisco. Even an ostensibly non-local restaurant concept like \u003ca href=\"http://www.coachmansf.com/#/food/\">The Coachman\u003c/a> ties back to Phan's first job in the US, bussing at a different Coachman that closed years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place and time figure heavily in Phan’s approach to cooking -- and life. \"When you don’t have the story [behind a dish or a menu], it just means a little less. It’s about flavor now, and there’s nothing that ties you back to the past, to why people do what they do.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80602\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-bookcase1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80602\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-bookcase1000.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan at home in front of his bookcase. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan at home in front of his bookcase. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now that he's expanded beyond his home cuisine of Vietnam, Phan has been researching to connect his restaurants and their menus to story. A vast bookcase across from his open kitchen is filled with cookbooks, but he also travels, to taste and taste and taste again. Phan jokes that he exhausts the patience of his children, who get dragged along on these research trips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I have to eat the same dishes five, six times to get a bearing: What’s everybody think? Food’s very personal. Everybody will have their secret way of doing it, but after awhile you get a sense of -- sometimes it’s physical. The location, the weather, the material [ingredients] that you have.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He has to research Vietnamese food, too. After all, he left Vietnam when he was 13 years-old. But also, traditions continue to change and evolve over time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You know, what the Vietnamese ate 50, 100 years ago, I’m sure was completely different.\" So, he says, when he talks about his Vietnamese tradition, he's talking about something drawn from his family's experience in the last half century. \"Not that far back.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hence the story of how his mother developed the peanut sauce for the \u003ca href=\"http://numnums.com/recipes/873/slanted-door-s-spring-rolls\">spring rolls\u003c/a> that helped launch the original Slanted Door restaurant nearly 20 years ago. Waiting for the bus that would take her to work, Phan's mother traded recipes and cooking tips with other Vietnamese immigrants. That's where she heard about using sticky rice and miso as blending agents for the peanut sauce, to develop the perfect taste and viscosity. As he explained to KQED host Thuy Vu on \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/01/03/kqeds-forum-charles-phan-on-home-cooking/\">Forum\u003c/a>, use too much peanut butter, and you'll get something \"almost like \u003ca href=\"http://www.peanutbutter.com/products.html\">Skippy\u003c/a>, with Thai chili in it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vietnamese cuisine, he notes, is an amalgamation, heavily influenced by Chinese and French cuisine. The other secret ingredient in his mom's spring roll? Mayonnaise, a legacy of a job she held at a French hospital in Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Phan brings that expansive attitude to the menu at the Slanted Door. He's using ingredients local to Northern California. But the aesthetic is also Vietnamese-American, like him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's not true of the dish he prepares for Bay Area Bites on the day we come to visit. We've asked him to make a holiday dish, a dish with religious significance, for KQED's Food & Spirituality series. He obliges with a dish he doesn't typically prepare because his mother is the one that makes it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80610\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80610\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung1000.jpg\" alt=\"Banh Chung. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banh Chung. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It's \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em>, a savory sticky, rice cake cooked in banana leaves, like a tamale -- a dish familiar to Chinese and Vietnamese people as a new year's treat. Phan's father fled Southern China to Vietnam during the Cultural Revolution, and his family serves banh chưng during \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/01/30/this-lunar-new-year-the-horse-gallops-in-with-traditional-foods-of-tet/\">Tết\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, or Chinese New Year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80657\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/xing-huang1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80657\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/xing-huang1000.jpg\" alt=\"Xing Huang prepare banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Xing Huang helps prepare banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Inside the banana leaves, inside a base of glutinous rice, are all sorts of goodies: mung bean, pork belly, pork shoulder, Chinese sausage, dried shrimp, and last but not least, a salted duck egg in the center. \"That’s one of my favorite things,\" Phan says, \"to find a salted duck egg in the middle.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80607\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung-ingredients1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80607\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung-ingredients1000.jpg\" alt=\"Banh Chung ingredients. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banh Chung ingredients. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So what's the story behind \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em>? In Vietnam, one version of the \u003ca href=\"http://learningtogive.org/resources/folktales/EarthCakes.asp\">story\u003c/a> goes, there was a king who had 18 sons. To choose the next king, he held a cooking competition. Most of the princes opted for rare and fancy ingredients. The youngest son was too poor for that. He created a dish inspired by the countryside he lived in -- rice from the nearby fields, green leaves from the forest. His humility, and the simple purity of his approach, won the king over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80606\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung-cooking1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80606\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung-cooking1000.jpg\" alt=\"Boiling the prepared Banh Chung. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Boiling the prepared Banh Chung. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"You know,\" says Phan, \"a lot of Vietnamese cuisine’s about that. It’s never about the expensive \u003cem>foie gras\u003c/em> or caviar. It’s always about simple ingredients -- and what can you turn these ingredients into, to create food that's just amazing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a dish that usually involves a small army of women getting together in the kitchen to prepare and combine the ingredients, then hover over the pots in which piles of \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em> are boiled. Small, hungry children typically watch with great interest, but the first \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em> go to the family's altar honoring ancestors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story of why people come to the Bay Area from a foreign land is often a painful one. Poverty, political upheaval, and war compel people to risk everything for a future in the US. But over time, it becomes more and more difficult to hold on to memories of the homeland, and to the cultural traditions that make less and less sense as the years pass. But food is an easy link...provided you hang on to the recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80617\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-slicing700.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80617\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-slicing700.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan slicing banh chưng to saute. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan slicing banh chưng to saute. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With the flash of a sharp knife, Phan slices through the string that holds the banana leaves together. The boiled \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em> can be re-steamed, or sliced and sauteed, then topped with a drizzle of soy sauce or Maggi, another condiment that's a favorite of the Vietnamese. The glutinous rice with mung bean recalls grits, and the sausage and egg inside pair perfectly, recalling the classic American breakfast of grits, eggs and ham or sausage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80654\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sliced-banh-chung1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80654\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sliced-banh-chung1000.jpg\" alt=\"Sliced banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sliced banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Phan says you can find \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em> in dim sum houses, especially around Chinese New Year, but not in his restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It’s just stuck in my head that it’s a religious food, so I won’t serve it in a restaurant. Seems sacrilegious.\" He laughs, and tucks again into the fruit of his labor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80614\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-cooking-1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80614\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-cooking-1000.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan cooking sliced banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan cooking sliced banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"We journey into the kitchen of Charles Phan, Vietnamese-American chef of The Slanted Door Group, to cook a dish served during Tet.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1642779412,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":22,"wordCount":1210},"headData":{"title":"Food & Spirituality: A Visit to Charles Phan's Home Kitchen | KQED","description":"We journey into the kitchen of Charles Phan, Vietnamese-American chef of The Slanted Door Group, to cook a dish served during Tet.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Food & Spirituality: A Visit to Charles Phan's Home Kitchen","datePublished":"2014-04-18T00:41:30.000Z","dateModified":"2022-01-21T15:36:52.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"79934 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=79934","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/04/17/food-spirituality-a-visit-to-charles-phans-home-kitchen/","disqusTitle":"Food & Spirituality: A Visit to Charles Phan's Home Kitchen","excludeFromSiteSearch":"Include","path":"/bayareabites/79934/food-spirituality-a-visit-to-charles-phans-home-kitchen","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Charles Phan is a local boy, through and through: before he became a celebrity chef with the runaway success of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a>, he went to UC Berkeley and Mission High School. He spent his teen years in San Francisco's Chinatown and recalls it nostalgically, even though his family struggled financially at the time. In the 1970s, his mother was making $2 an hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Phan employs more than 20 of his relatives at \u003ca href=\"www.slanteddoor.com/restaurants\">eight\u003c/a> restaurants in San Francisco. Even an ostensibly non-local restaurant concept like \u003ca href=\"http://www.coachmansf.com/#/food/\">The Coachman\u003c/a> ties back to Phan's first job in the US, bussing at a different Coachman that closed years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place and time figure heavily in Phan’s approach to cooking -- and life. \"When you don’t have the story [behind a dish or a menu], it just means a little less. It’s about flavor now, and there’s nothing that ties you back to the past, to why people do what they do.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80602\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-bookcase1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80602\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-bookcase1000.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan at home in front of his bookcase. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan at home in front of his bookcase. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now that he's expanded beyond his home cuisine of Vietnam, Phan has been researching to connect his restaurants and their menus to story. A vast bookcase across from his open kitchen is filled with cookbooks, but he also travels, to taste and taste and taste again. Phan jokes that he exhausts the patience of his children, who get dragged along on these research trips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I have to eat the same dishes five, six times to get a bearing: What’s everybody think? Food’s very personal. Everybody will have their secret way of doing it, but after awhile you get a sense of -- sometimes it’s physical. The location, the weather, the material [ingredients] that you have.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He has to research Vietnamese food, too. After all, he left Vietnam when he was 13 years-old. But also, traditions continue to change and evolve over time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You know, what the Vietnamese ate 50, 100 years ago, I’m sure was completely different.\" So, he says, when he talks about his Vietnamese tradition, he's talking about something drawn from his family's experience in the last half century. \"Not that far back.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hence the story of how his mother developed the peanut sauce for the \u003ca href=\"http://numnums.com/recipes/873/slanted-door-s-spring-rolls\">spring rolls\u003c/a> that helped launch the original Slanted Door restaurant nearly 20 years ago. Waiting for the bus that would take her to work, Phan's mother traded recipes and cooking tips with other Vietnamese immigrants. That's where she heard about using sticky rice and miso as blending agents for the peanut sauce, to develop the perfect taste and viscosity. As he explained to KQED host Thuy Vu on \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/01/03/kqeds-forum-charles-phan-on-home-cooking/\">Forum\u003c/a>, use too much peanut butter, and you'll get something \"almost like \u003ca href=\"http://www.peanutbutter.com/products.html\">Skippy\u003c/a>, with Thai chili in it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vietnamese cuisine, he notes, is an amalgamation, heavily influenced by Chinese and French cuisine. The other secret ingredient in his mom's spring roll? Mayonnaise, a legacy of a job she held at a French hospital in Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Phan brings that expansive attitude to the menu at the Slanted Door. He's using ingredients local to Northern California. But the aesthetic is also Vietnamese-American, like him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's not true of the dish he prepares for Bay Area Bites on the day we come to visit. We've asked him to make a holiday dish, a dish with religious significance, for KQED's Food & Spirituality series. He obliges with a dish he doesn't typically prepare because his mother is the one that makes it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80610\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80610\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung1000.jpg\" alt=\"Banh Chung. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banh Chung. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It's \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em>, a savory sticky, rice cake cooked in banana leaves, like a tamale -- a dish familiar to Chinese and Vietnamese people as a new year's treat. Phan's father fled Southern China to Vietnam during the Cultural Revolution, and his family serves banh chưng during \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/01/30/this-lunar-new-year-the-horse-gallops-in-with-traditional-foods-of-tet/\">Tết\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, or Chinese New Year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80657\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/xing-huang1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80657\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/xing-huang1000.jpg\" alt=\"Xing Huang prepare banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Xing Huang helps prepare banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Inside the banana leaves, inside a base of glutinous rice, are all sorts of goodies: mung bean, pork belly, pork shoulder, Chinese sausage, dried shrimp, and last but not least, a salted duck egg in the center. \"That’s one of my favorite things,\" Phan says, \"to find a salted duck egg in the middle.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80607\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung-ingredients1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80607\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung-ingredients1000.jpg\" alt=\"Banh Chung ingredients. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banh Chung ingredients. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So what's the story behind \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em>? In Vietnam, one version of the \u003ca href=\"http://learningtogive.org/resources/folktales/EarthCakes.asp\">story\u003c/a> goes, there was a king who had 18 sons. To choose the next king, he held a cooking competition. Most of the princes opted for rare and fancy ingredients. The youngest son was too poor for that. He created a dish inspired by the countryside he lived in -- rice from the nearby fields, green leaves from the forest. His humility, and the simple purity of his approach, won the king over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80606\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung-cooking1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80606\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/banh-chung-cooking1000.jpg\" alt=\"Boiling the prepared Banh Chung. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Boiling the prepared Banh Chung. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"You know,\" says Phan, \"a lot of Vietnamese cuisine’s about that. It’s never about the expensive \u003cem>foie gras\u003c/em> or caviar. It’s always about simple ingredients -- and what can you turn these ingredients into, to create food that's just amazing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a dish that usually involves a small army of women getting together in the kitchen to prepare and combine the ingredients, then hover over the pots in which piles of \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em> are boiled. Small, hungry children typically watch with great interest, but the first \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em> go to the family's altar honoring ancestors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The story of why people come to the Bay Area from a foreign land is often a painful one. Poverty, political upheaval, and war compel people to risk everything for a future in the US. But over time, it becomes more and more difficult to hold on to memories of the homeland, and to the cultural traditions that make less and less sense as the years pass. But food is an easy link...provided you hang on to the recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80617\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-slicing700.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80617\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-slicing700.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan slicing banh chưng to saute. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan slicing banh chưng to saute. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With the flash of a sharp knife, Phan slices through the string that holds the banana leaves together. The boiled \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em> can be re-steamed, or sliced and sauteed, then topped with a drizzle of soy sauce or Maggi, another condiment that's a favorite of the Vietnamese. The glutinous rice with mung bean recalls grits, and the sausage and egg inside pair perfectly, recalling the classic American breakfast of grits, eggs and ham or sausage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80654\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sliced-banh-chung1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80654\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sliced-banh-chung1000.jpg\" alt=\"Sliced banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sliced banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Phan says you can find \u003cem>banh chưng\u003c/em> in dim sum houses, especially around Chinese New Year, but not in his restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It’s just stuck in my head that it’s a religious food, so I won’t serve it in a restaurant. Seems sacrilegious.\" He laughs, and tucks again into the fruit of his labor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_80614\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-cooking-1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-80614\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/charles-phan-cooking-1000.jpg\" alt=\"Charles Phan cooking sliced banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles Phan cooking sliced banh chưng. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/79934/food-spirituality-a-visit-to-charles-phans-home-kitchen","authors":["251","5014"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_12493","bayareabites_12549","bayareabites_12550","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_45","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_1676","bayareabites_1784","bayareabites_3529","bayareabites_4028","bayareabites_8900","bayareabites_8892","bayareabites_9917","bayareabites_68","bayareabites_10756","bayareabites_10985","bayareabites_17079"],"featImg":"bayareabites_80661","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_77370":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_77370","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"77370","score":null,"sort":[1391094922000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"this-lunar-new-year-the-horse-gallops-in-with-traditional-foods-of-tet","title":"This Lunar New Year, the Horse Gallops in with Traditional Foods of Tết","publishDate":1391094922,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77400\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/horses1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/horses1000.jpg\" alt=\"Giant painting at Oakland's beloved Vietnamese restaurant Le Cheval (French for "Horse") welcomes Year of the Horse.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"550\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77400\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Giant painting at Oakland's beloved Vietnamese restaurant Le Cheval (French for \"Horse\") welcomes Year of the Horse. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As the Tran family gathers to celebrate the Lunar New Year, which starts this Friday, they will share wedges of thick, sticky rice filled with peppery pork and mashed mung beans (\u003cem>banh chung\u003c/em>), slices of a cold cut made from chopped pig ears and snout (\u003cem>gio thu)\u003c/em>, pickled vegetables, and perhaps some fish in a caramelized \u003cem>kho\u003c/em> sauce. When friends and relatives come by to visit over the next few days, there will be endless cups of tea, served with dried fruits and nutty sweets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77373\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/pkg-nutty-cookies1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-77373\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/pkg-nutty-cookies1.jpg\" alt=\"Happy New Year proclaims this box of nut and seed cookies, a traditional snack for the Vietnamese celebration of Tet\" width=\"1000\" height=\"563\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Happy New Year\" proclaims this box of nut and seed cookies, a traditional snack for the Vietnamese celebration of Tết. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These traditional foods are specific to the Vietnamese observance of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.asian-nation.org/tet.shtml\">Lunar New Year known as Tết\u003c/a>. The ancient holiday shares the annual date with the Chinese New Year and both cultures \u003ca href=\"http://www.louisianafolklife.org/LT/Articles_Essays/VietnameseNewYear.html\">cherish similar traditions\u003c/a> of buying new clothes, decorating recently cleaned houses and giving gifts of money in red envelopes. Yet at the essential family get-togethers to honor ancestors and exchange wishes for luck and prosperity in the coming year, the treasured dishes enjoyed around the holiday table will vary considerably.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77374\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/banh-chung-pkg.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-77374\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/banh-chung-pkg.jpg\" alt=\"A festive bundle of banh chung, the quintessential Vietnamese Lunar New Year dish.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"595\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A festive bundle of banh chung, the quintessential Vietnamese Lunar New Year dish. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the Bay Area, with its large Chinese population and their early arrival as immigrants, Tết, (as well as Lunar New Year celebrations in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/bayarea/article/Lunar-New-Year-a-multicultural-celebration-2828941.php\">Korean, Singaporean and Indonesian communities\u003c/a>) seems to get eclipsed by the older and more well known Chinese New Year parade and events.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77401\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/son-tran700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/son-tran700.jpg\" alt=\"Owner of Oakland's Le Cheval, Son Tan, was born in the Year of the Horse.\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77401\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Owner of Oakland's Le Cheval, Son Tan, was born in the Year of the Horse. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What better place to honor the lively equine spirit of the coming Year of the Horse than Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"http://lecheval.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=50&Itemid=4\">Le Cheval Vietnamese restaurant\u003c/a>? I recently met with owner Son Tran, who was born in the year of the Horse and started the restaurant with his mother and other members of their large family. When they were trying to decide on a name for their restaurant more than twenty years ago, Tran told me, they thought a Vietnamese word would be too hard to pronounce, English would sound too American, and finally agreed that French, the language of the older generation and an artifact of France’s almost century of colonial rule, could convey just the right tone. Son’s astrological sign became the moniker of his family’s popular restaurant, which was sealed by his lucky find of a huge painting of stampeding stallions that defines the proud spirit of this beloved, downtown Oakland restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since the “Horse is a highly intuitive animal,” \u003ca href=\"http://susanlevitt.com/astrology/horse-year-2014/\">says astrologer Susan Levitt\u003c/a>, “people born in Horse year follow their hunches. Their keen judgment and natural intuition often help them make the right decisions throughout their life.” The \u003ca href=\"http://www.travelchinaguide.com/intro/social_customs/zodiac/horse.htm\">Horse personality has also been noted\u003c/a> for its independence, stubbornness and refusal to accept failure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These traits undoubtedly helped Son Tran meet the challenges that came his family’s way when, in 2010, after 20 years as a prize-winning, neighborhood institution, Le Cheval lost its lease, was forced to close and had to lay off 70 workers due to a clash with their contentious landlord (\u003ca href=\"http://www.eastbayexpress.com/oakland/a-new-lease-for-le-cheval/Content?oid=3144703\">who was later found guilty of massive wage fraud and other crimes\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the building went into foreclosure and then auction, the Trans’ luck finally turned around and they were asked back by the new owner. In 2012, Le Cheval re-opened to the acclaim of neighborhood regulars who couldn’t wait to once more enjoy their bowls of pho, clay pot rice, calamari salad, succulent beef cubes and complimentary creamy carrot soup in the same cavernous space on Clay Street beneath the soulful stares of its iconic herd of horses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77402\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/banhchung1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/banhchung1000.jpg\" alt=\"Banh Chung, the must-have dish of Tet, sticky rice stuffed with peppery pork, is eaten fresh, dipped in a bit of sugar or fried.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"663\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77402\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banh Chung, the must-have dish of Tet, sticky rice stuffed with peppery pork, is eaten fresh, dipped in a bit of sugar or fried. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tran explained to me the story behind the most ubiquitous Tết dish, \u003cem>banh chung\u003c/em>, hefty brick-like packages of pork and rice. In the Vietnam of olden times, shops and businesses would close for at least the first three days of the New Year, so townsfolk needed food to last them till the markets reopened. These blocks or cylinders of stuffed rice, were wrapped with banana leaves, neatly tied up, and then boiled for upwards of eight hours. Although some people made them at home, their labor-intensiveness compelled most families to stock up on premade bundles to enjoy for at least three days, either freshly cut or fried until crispy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/23/sizzling-wok-and-lucky-foods-welcome-the-chinese-new-year-of-the-dragon/\">Many Chinese New Year dishes represent good luck by their shapes\u003c/a>. A whole chicken, for example, symbolizes family togetherness and dumplings resemble golden ingots. Others take advantage of sound puns. The word for fish “yu” can also sound like “surplus” which portends prosperity in the coming year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The same principle operates in the Vietnamese language. Tran tells me it is important to have a Tết display in the home with budding flowers and the following fruits: mangosteen, coconut, papaya and mango, because their names also sound like other words that convey a message. For the answer to this riddle, I turned to Professor Dzuong Nguyen, who teaches Vietnamese language courses at Stanford University.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>He revealed that:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>The word for Mangosteen sounds like the verb “to pray.”\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Coconut sounds like \"barely\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Papaya sounds like \"enough\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mango sounds like \"to spend\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>So this fruit quartet conveys the concept of \"Wishing to earn just enough to spend\" (or \"Here's hoping you make enough to cover all your household expenses\").\u003c/p>\u003c/ul>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77380\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/lotus-seeds.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-77380 \" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/lotus-seeds.jpg\" alt=\"Sweetened dried lotus seeds are another popular snack for Tet.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"700\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sweetened dried lotus seeds are another popular snack for Tết. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Award-winning cookbook author and cooking teacher \u003ca href=\"http://www.vietworldkitchen.com/blog/2009/01/special-foods-for-tet-celebrations.html\">Andrea Nguyen\u003c/a>, describes many traditional festive foods like \u003cem>banh chung\u003c/em> and \u003cem>kho, (\u003c/em>simmered meat or fish cooked in a caramelized sauce of sugar and fish sauce) that are prepared ahead of time and preserve well “…because during Tet, you're supposed to be out having fun not slaving away in the kitchen!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Son Tran told me about other festive foods, including a kind of sausage made from chopped pig ear and nose, formed into cylinders by packing tightly in cans. Pickled vegetables, such as mustard greens, daikon radish, carrot and cabbage, help with digestion of the fatty meats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77381\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/tea-and-cookies.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-77381\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/tea-and-cookies.jpg\" alt=\"Tea and sweets, like these nutty cookies, are served to family and friends when they come to visit.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"711\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tea and sweets, like these nutty cookies, are served to family and friends when they come to visit. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Since an essential element of Lunar New Year celebration involves visiting friends' and relatives' homes, one must have an array of sweets on hand to serve the parade of guests. Nuts and seeds figure in many of these because, Professor Nguyen ventures, in old Vietnam, nuts were seen as a luxury item, so treating your guests to them was a special gift.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77391\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/watermelon-seeds.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/watermelon-seeds.jpg\" alt=\"Watermelon seeds made even more lucky by red coloring. Photo: Anna Mindess\" width=\"1000\" height=\"695\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77391\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Watermelon seeds made even more lucky by red coloring. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Both the flesh of the watermelon and its seeds are eaten, for their lucky red color. Dried fruits are also traditional snacks to be shared with visitors over a cup of tea. “Sweet foods are important for this holiday,\" Professor Nguyen explains, \" because we are always wishing each other a sweet and happy life.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77393\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/dried-sweets.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\" wp-image-77393\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/dried-sweets.jpg\" alt=\"This Sweet Fortune Snack Tray contains candied winter melon, carrots, yam, kumquats and soursop.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"661\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This \"Sweet Fortune Snack Tray\" contains candied winter melon, carrots, yam, kumquats and soursop. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chúc Mừng Năm Mới\u003c/strong>! Happy Lunar New Year!\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Related Information and Events\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Le Cheval will host their annual Lunar New Year celebration on \u003cstrong>Sunday February 9 at 7pm\u003c/strong> with Lion Dancers and Martial artists entertaining guests inside the restaurant. Reservations are recommended: 510-763-8495\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://lecheval.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=50&Itemid=4\">\u003cstrong>Le Cheval\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/ZT4KsB\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1007 Clay Street\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94607\u003cbr>\nPhone: 510-763-8495\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Le-Cheval-Restaurant/80016581578?ref=br_tf\">Le Cheval\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Events:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Feb 1 & 2:\u003c/strong> The largest local \u003ca href=\"http://www.tetvietnamsj.com/\">Vietnamese Tet Festival\u003c/a> take place annually in San Jose at the Santa Clara Fairground.\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/VietnameseTetFestival\">Vietnamese Tet Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Feb 1:\u003c/strong> San Francisco - Rice Paper Scissors hosts \u003ca href=\"http://www.brickandmortarmusic.com/event/474213-rice-paper-scissors-san-francisco/\">a Lunar New Year Brunch\u003c/a> at Brick & Mortar Music Hall\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Events at various locations:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tablehopper.com/chatterbox/celebrate-lunar-new-year-with-chinese-korean-and-vietnamese-traditions/\"> Celebrate Lunar New Year with Chinese, Korean and Vietnamese Traditions\u003c/a> (tablehopper)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Tet, the Vietnamese celebration of Lunar New Year, encompasses a range of traditional foods: from thick wedges of sticky rice filled with peppery pork to candied kumquats and nutty cookies. For the Year of the Horse, Son Tran, owner of Oakland's aptly named Le Cheval Vietnamese restaurant, shares details of these essential holiday dishes and other cultural traditions.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1391358408,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":1408},"headData":{"title":"This Lunar New Year, the Horse Gallops in with Traditional Foods of Tết | KQED","description":"Tet, the Vietnamese celebration of Lunar New Year, encompasses a range of traditional foods: from thick wedges of sticky rice filled with peppery pork to candied kumquats and nutty cookies. For the Year of the Horse, Son Tran, owner of Oakland's aptly named Le Cheval Vietnamese restaurant, shares details of these essential holiday dishes and other cultural traditions.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"This Lunar New Year, the Horse Gallops in with Traditional Foods of Tết","datePublished":"2014-01-30T15:15:22.000Z","dateModified":"2014-02-02T16:26:48.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"77370 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=77370","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/01/30/this-lunar-new-year-the-horse-gallops-in-with-traditional-foods-of-tet/","disqusTitle":"This Lunar New Year, the Horse Gallops in with Traditional Foods of Tết","path":"/bayareabites/77370/this-lunar-new-year-the-horse-gallops-in-with-traditional-foods-of-tet","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77400\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/horses1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/horses1000.jpg\" alt=\"Giant painting at Oakland's beloved Vietnamese restaurant Le Cheval (French for "Horse") welcomes Year of the Horse.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"550\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77400\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Giant painting at Oakland's beloved Vietnamese restaurant Le Cheval (French for \"Horse\") welcomes Year of the Horse. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As the Tran family gathers to celebrate the Lunar New Year, which starts this Friday, they will share wedges of thick, sticky rice filled with peppery pork and mashed mung beans (\u003cem>banh chung\u003c/em>), slices of a cold cut made from chopped pig ears and snout (\u003cem>gio thu)\u003c/em>, pickled vegetables, and perhaps some fish in a caramelized \u003cem>kho\u003c/em> sauce. When friends and relatives come by to visit over the next few days, there will be endless cups of tea, served with dried fruits and nutty sweets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77373\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/pkg-nutty-cookies1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-77373\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/pkg-nutty-cookies1.jpg\" alt=\"Happy New Year proclaims this box of nut and seed cookies, a traditional snack for the Vietnamese celebration of Tet\" width=\"1000\" height=\"563\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Happy New Year\" proclaims this box of nut and seed cookies, a traditional snack for the Vietnamese celebration of Tết. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These traditional foods are specific to the Vietnamese observance of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.asian-nation.org/tet.shtml\">Lunar New Year known as Tết\u003c/a>. The ancient holiday shares the annual date with the Chinese New Year and both cultures \u003ca href=\"http://www.louisianafolklife.org/LT/Articles_Essays/VietnameseNewYear.html\">cherish similar traditions\u003c/a> of buying new clothes, decorating recently cleaned houses and giving gifts of money in red envelopes. Yet at the essential family get-togethers to honor ancestors and exchange wishes for luck and prosperity in the coming year, the treasured dishes enjoyed around the holiday table will vary considerably.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77374\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/banh-chung-pkg.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-77374\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/banh-chung-pkg.jpg\" alt=\"A festive bundle of banh chung, the quintessential Vietnamese Lunar New Year dish.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"595\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A festive bundle of banh chung, the quintessential Vietnamese Lunar New Year dish. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the Bay Area, with its large Chinese population and their early arrival as immigrants, Tết, (as well as Lunar New Year celebrations in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/bayarea/article/Lunar-New-Year-a-multicultural-celebration-2828941.php\">Korean, Singaporean and Indonesian communities\u003c/a>) seems to get eclipsed by the older and more well known Chinese New Year parade and events.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77401\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/son-tran700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/son-tran700.jpg\" alt=\"Owner of Oakland's Le Cheval, Son Tan, was born in the Year of the Horse.\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77401\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Owner of Oakland's Le Cheval, Son Tan, was born in the Year of the Horse. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What better place to honor the lively equine spirit of the coming Year of the Horse than Oakland’s \u003ca href=\"http://lecheval.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=50&Itemid=4\">Le Cheval Vietnamese restaurant\u003c/a>? I recently met with owner Son Tran, who was born in the year of the Horse and started the restaurant with his mother and other members of their large family. When they were trying to decide on a name for their restaurant more than twenty years ago, Tran told me, they thought a Vietnamese word would be too hard to pronounce, English would sound too American, and finally agreed that French, the language of the older generation and an artifact of France’s almost century of colonial rule, could convey just the right tone. Son’s astrological sign became the moniker of his family’s popular restaurant, which was sealed by his lucky find of a huge painting of stampeding stallions that defines the proud spirit of this beloved, downtown Oakland restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since the “Horse is a highly intuitive animal,” \u003ca href=\"http://susanlevitt.com/astrology/horse-year-2014/\">says astrologer Susan Levitt\u003c/a>, “people born in Horse year follow their hunches. Their keen judgment and natural intuition often help them make the right decisions throughout their life.” The \u003ca href=\"http://www.travelchinaguide.com/intro/social_customs/zodiac/horse.htm\">Horse personality has also been noted\u003c/a> for its independence, stubbornness and refusal to accept failure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These traits undoubtedly helped Son Tran meet the challenges that came his family’s way when, in 2010, after 20 years as a prize-winning, neighborhood institution, Le Cheval lost its lease, was forced to close and had to lay off 70 workers due to a clash with their contentious landlord (\u003ca href=\"http://www.eastbayexpress.com/oakland/a-new-lease-for-le-cheval/Content?oid=3144703\">who was later found guilty of massive wage fraud and other crimes\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the building went into foreclosure and then auction, the Trans’ luck finally turned around and they were asked back by the new owner. In 2012, Le Cheval re-opened to the acclaim of neighborhood regulars who couldn’t wait to once more enjoy their bowls of pho, clay pot rice, calamari salad, succulent beef cubes and complimentary creamy carrot soup in the same cavernous space on Clay Street beneath the soulful stares of its iconic herd of horses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77402\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/banhchung1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/banhchung1000.jpg\" alt=\"Banh Chung, the must-have dish of Tet, sticky rice stuffed with peppery pork, is eaten fresh, dipped in a bit of sugar or fried.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"663\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77402\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banh Chung, the must-have dish of Tet, sticky rice stuffed with peppery pork, is eaten fresh, dipped in a bit of sugar or fried. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tran explained to me the story behind the most ubiquitous Tết dish, \u003cem>banh chung\u003c/em>, hefty brick-like packages of pork and rice. In the Vietnam of olden times, shops and businesses would close for at least the first three days of the New Year, so townsfolk needed food to last them till the markets reopened. These blocks or cylinders of stuffed rice, were wrapped with banana leaves, neatly tied up, and then boiled for upwards of eight hours. Although some people made them at home, their labor-intensiveness compelled most families to stock up on premade bundles to enjoy for at least three days, either freshly cut or fried until crispy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/23/sizzling-wok-and-lucky-foods-welcome-the-chinese-new-year-of-the-dragon/\">Many Chinese New Year dishes represent good luck by their shapes\u003c/a>. A whole chicken, for example, symbolizes family togetherness and dumplings resemble golden ingots. Others take advantage of sound puns. The word for fish “yu” can also sound like “surplus” which portends prosperity in the coming year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The same principle operates in the Vietnamese language. Tran tells me it is important to have a Tết display in the home with budding flowers and the following fruits: mangosteen, coconut, papaya and mango, because their names also sound like other words that convey a message. For the answer to this riddle, I turned to Professor Dzuong Nguyen, who teaches Vietnamese language courses at Stanford University.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>He revealed that:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>The word for Mangosteen sounds like the verb “to pray.”\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Coconut sounds like \"barely\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Papaya sounds like \"enough\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mango sounds like \"to spend\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cp>So this fruit quartet conveys the concept of \"Wishing to earn just enough to spend\" (or \"Here's hoping you make enough to cover all your household expenses\").\u003c/p>\u003c/ul>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77380\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/lotus-seeds.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-77380 \" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/lotus-seeds.jpg\" alt=\"Sweetened dried lotus seeds are another popular snack for Tet.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"700\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sweetened dried lotus seeds are another popular snack for Tết. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Award-winning cookbook author and cooking teacher \u003ca href=\"http://www.vietworldkitchen.com/blog/2009/01/special-foods-for-tet-celebrations.html\">Andrea Nguyen\u003c/a>, describes many traditional festive foods like \u003cem>banh chung\u003c/em> and \u003cem>kho, (\u003c/em>simmered meat or fish cooked in a caramelized sauce of sugar and fish sauce) that are prepared ahead of time and preserve well “…because during Tet, you're supposed to be out having fun not slaving away in the kitchen!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Son Tran told me about other festive foods, including a kind of sausage made from chopped pig ear and nose, formed into cylinders by packing tightly in cans. Pickled vegetables, such as mustard greens, daikon radish, carrot and cabbage, help with digestion of the fatty meats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77381\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/tea-and-cookies.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-77381\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/tea-and-cookies.jpg\" alt=\"Tea and sweets, like these nutty cookies, are served to family and friends when they come to visit.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"711\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tea and sweets, like these nutty cookies, are served to family and friends when they come to visit. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Since an essential element of Lunar New Year celebration involves visiting friends' and relatives' homes, one must have an array of sweets on hand to serve the parade of guests. Nuts and seeds figure in many of these because, Professor Nguyen ventures, in old Vietnam, nuts were seen as a luxury item, so treating your guests to them was a special gift.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77391\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/watermelon-seeds.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/watermelon-seeds.jpg\" alt=\"Watermelon seeds made even more lucky by red coloring. Photo: Anna Mindess\" width=\"1000\" height=\"695\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77391\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Watermelon seeds made even more lucky by red coloring. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Both the flesh of the watermelon and its seeds are eaten, for their lucky red color. Dried fruits are also traditional snacks to be shared with visitors over a cup of tea. “Sweet foods are important for this holiday,\" Professor Nguyen explains, \" because we are always wishing each other a sweet and happy life.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77393\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/dried-sweets.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\" wp-image-77393\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/dried-sweets.jpg\" alt=\"This Sweet Fortune Snack Tray contains candied winter melon, carrots, yam, kumquats and soursop.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"661\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This \"Sweet Fortune Snack Tray\" contains candied winter melon, carrots, yam, kumquats and soursop. Photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chúc Mừng Năm Mới\u003c/strong>! Happy Lunar New Year!\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Related Information and Events\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Le Cheval will host their annual Lunar New Year celebration on \u003cstrong>Sunday February 9 at 7pm\u003c/strong> with Lion Dancers and Martial artists entertaining guests inside the restaurant. Reservations are recommended: 510-763-8495\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://lecheval.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=50&Itemid=4\">\u003cstrong>Le Cheval\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/ZT4KsB\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1007 Clay Street\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94607\u003cbr>\nPhone: 510-763-8495\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Le-Cheval-Restaurant/80016581578?ref=br_tf\">Le Cheval\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Events:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Feb 1 & 2:\u003c/strong> The largest local \u003ca href=\"http://www.tetvietnamsj.com/\">Vietnamese Tet Festival\u003c/a> take place annually in San Jose at the Santa Clara Fairground.\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/VietnameseTetFestival\">Vietnamese Tet Festival\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>Feb 1:\u003c/strong> San Francisco - Rice Paper Scissors hosts \u003ca href=\"http://www.brickandmortarmusic.com/event/474213-rice-paper-scissors-san-francisco/\">a Lunar New Year Brunch\u003c/a> at Brick & Mortar Music Hall\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Events at various locations:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tablehopper.com/chatterbox/celebrate-lunar-new-year-with-chinese-korean-and-vietnamese-traditions/\"> Celebrate Lunar New Year with Chinese, Korean and Vietnamese Traditions\u003c/a> (tablehopper)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/77370/this-lunar-new-year-the-horse-gallops-in-with-traditional-foods-of-tet","authors":["5283"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_13012","bayareabites_1784","bayareabites_13007","bayareabites_3529","bayareabites_10973","bayareabites_13013","bayareabites_8900","bayareabites_10793","bayareabites_10756","bayareabites_13006"],"featImg":"bayareabites_77399","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_51421":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_51421","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"51421","score":null,"sort":[1354204805000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"pop-up-cafe-rice-paper-scissors-share-their-vision-video","title":"Pop-Up Cafe Rice Paper Scissors Share their Vision (Video)","publishDate":1354204805,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Small food business partners Valerie Luu & Katie Kwan of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ricepaperscissors.com/\">Rice Paper Scissors\u003c/a>, a pop-up cafe serving Vietnamese food located in San Francisco, share their vision: integrating their eastern culinary heritage with the trending western street food culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51970\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/rice-paper-scissors560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/rice-paper-scissors560.jpg\" alt=\"Rice Paper Scissors - Valerie Luu and Katie Kwan\" title=\"Rice Paper Scissors - Valerie Luu and Katie Kwan\" width=\"560\" height=\"308\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51970\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rice Paper Scissors - Valerie Luu and Katie Kwan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.ricepaperscissors.com/\">Rice Paper Scissors\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ricepapersf\">@ricepapersf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ricepaperscissors\">Rice Paper Scissors\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Small food business partners Valerie Luu & Katie Kwan of Rice Paper Scissors, a pop-up cafe serving Vietnamese food located in San Francisco, share their vision: integrating their eastern culinary heritage with the trending western street food culture. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1355342080,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":4,"wordCount":59},"headData":{"title":"Pop-Up Cafe Rice Paper Scissors Share their Vision (Video) | KQED","description":"Small food business partners Valerie Luu & Katie Kwan of Rice Paper Scissors, a pop-up cafe serving Vietnamese food located in San Francisco, share their vision: integrating their eastern culinary heritage with the trending western street food culture. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Pop-Up Cafe Rice Paper Scissors Share their Vision (Video)","datePublished":"2012-11-29T16:00:05.000Z","dateModified":"2012-12-12T19:54:40.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"51421 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=51421","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/11/29/pop-up-cafe-rice-paper-scissors-share-their-vision-video/","disqusTitle":"Pop-Up Cafe Rice Paper Scissors Share their Vision (Video)","videoEmbed":"\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/2wUxLoiXZOU\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen>\u003c/iframe>","path":"/bayareabites/51421/pop-up-cafe-rice-paper-scissors-share-their-vision-video","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Small food business partners Valerie Luu & Katie Kwan of \u003ca href=\"http://www.ricepaperscissors.com/\">Rice Paper Scissors\u003c/a>, a pop-up cafe serving Vietnamese food located in San Francisco, share their vision: integrating their eastern culinary heritage with the trending western street food culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_51970\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/rice-paper-scissors560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/rice-paper-scissors560.jpg\" alt=\"Rice Paper Scissors - Valerie Luu and Katie Kwan\" title=\"Rice Paper Scissors - Valerie Luu and Katie Kwan\" width=\"560\" height=\"308\" class=\"size-full wp-image-51970\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rice Paper Scissors - Valerie Luu and Katie Kwan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.ricepaperscissors.com/\">Rice Paper Scissors\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ricepapersf\">@ricepapersf\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ricepaperscissors\">Rice Paper Scissors\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/51421/pop-up-cafe-rice-paper-scissors-share-their-vision-video","authors":["5396"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_181","bayareabites_1593"],"tags":["bayareabites_4043","bayareabites_10876","bayareabites_68","bayareabites_10756"],"featImg":"bayareabites_51969","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_48988":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_48988","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"48988","score":null,"sort":[1348077157000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"banh-mi-love-you-long-times-vietnamese-sandwiches-at-porch-light-storytelling","title":"Banh Mi Love You Long Time's Vietnamese Sandwiches at Porchlight Storytelling ","publishDate":1348077157,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/beth-arlene500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/beth-arlene500.jpg\" alt=\"Beth Lisick and Arline Klatte at Porchlight\" title=\"Beth Lisick and Arline Klatte at Porchlight\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49061\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Beth Lisick and Arline Klatte at Porchlight\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seriously, every storytelling/reading/performance art show should start in a room that smells like bourbon and banh mi. On Monday, that was the scene at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.verdiclub.net\">Verdi Club\u003c/a> in the northeast Mission, as a capacity crowd squeezed in for the 11th season opener of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.porchlightsf.com\">Porchlight Storytelling Series\u003c/a>. At the old-fashioned bar, the bartenders were busy mixing highballs, grabbing bottles of Peroni and filling stubby glasses to the brim with Italian red. And at a makeshift kitchen (toaster oven, a couple of crock pots, tubs of pickled chiles and squeeze bottles of Sriracha), Jessica Nguyen of \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/bikebanhmi\">Banh Mi Love You Long Time\u003c/a> was stuffing crisp-toasted lengths of baguette with curry tofu, curry chicken, or slow-cooked pork, adding the necessary magic of cilantro, cucumber, carrot, daikon, and chiles, and handing out dozens of the paper-wrapped sandwiches to the chattering crowd with a smile. At $7, a glass of wine cost a buck more than a sandwich, but with both, you could be very happy for less than fifteen bucks. (Or fifteen even, if you did right and tipped both your bartender and your sandwich-maker.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Jessica500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Jessica500.jpg\" alt=\"Jessica Nguyen of Banh Mi Love You Long Time making sandwiches\" title=\"Jessica Nguyen of Banh Mi Love You Long Time making sandwiches\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49064\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jessica Nguyen of Banh Mi Love You Long Time making Vietnamese sandwiches\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having moved to Brooklyn just 6 weeks ago, host Beth Lisick was happy to be back in town and back on stage with her co-host, Arline Klatte, after Porchlight's August hiatus. The theme this time? \u003cstrong>Double Dare\u003c/strong>, one story told in tandem by two tellers. (Although \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/BootsRiley\">Boots Riley\u003c/a>, of Oakland hip-hop band \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/TheCoup\">The Coup\u003c/a>, did get a pass to perform solo, by counting his 6-week-old son in the audience as his silent partner.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First up, a word from the show's sponsor: a don't-quit-your-day-job turn by Chris Mittelstaedt, founder and CEO of \u003ca href=\"http://fruitguys.com\">The Fruit Guys\u003c/a>, who wore a full-length banana suit while belting out an ode to fruit, backed by Fiona and Simone, his (much cooler) twin 11-year-old daughters on drums and bass, who could ditch Dad and start a \u003ca href=\"http://www.thedonnas.com\">Donnas\u003c/a> cover band any day now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(In fact, as we discovered via an email from Mittelstaedt after this article was posted, the girls have been in an all-girl band, \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnlEtDw3umk\">Mysturbia\u003c/a>, for several years now. They'll be playing at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.polkstreetbluesfestival.com\">Polk Street Blues Festival\u003c/a> on Sunday, September 30, at 12 noon as part of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bird-sf.com/music.html\">Bird Music School\u003c/a> set.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Carol-Robert500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Carol-Robert500.jpg\" alt=\"Robert Lawrence and Carol Queen at Porchlight\" title=\"Robert Lawrence and Carol Queen at Porchlight\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49062\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Robert Lawrence and Carol Queen at Porchlight\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up, doctors of sexology \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/carolqueen\">Carol Queen\u003c/a> and Robert Lawrence, founders of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sexandculture.org\">Center for Sex and Culture\u003c/a>, and longtime sex educators, authors, and performers. Carol and I even share a food world connection: back in 1996, we were both contributors to a (now long out-of-print) cookbook of celebrity recipes put together to raise money for AIDS organizations. Titled \u003cem>Food for Life and Other Dish, \u003c/em>it offered recipes for novelist Dorothy Allison's Red Velvet Cake, drag star RuPaul's Coush-Coush, \"The Apple Pie That Seduced My Girlfriend\" from writer Rebecca Brown, and many more. Carol was posed in front of her kitchen counter, breaking eggs, while I was snapped standing on top of my stove holding a pie while wearing a checked gingham dress and a Louise Brooks wig. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, we go way back, Carol and I, but I didn't know that, around the same time as that cookbook was coming out, she and Robert had gotten a $24,000 grant from the Ford Foundation to present a sex-ed lecture (and some educational porn) to the top brass of China's health administration in Beijing. Their week in Beijing, buttressed by a squadron of translators, included a foray to what was, at the time, Beijing's only gay bar, and the discovery of the late-night gay cruising scene near the illegal bok choy market. The Chinese phrase for the semi-public sex happening wherever a tiny slice of semi-privacy could be found? \"Trembling bushes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then it was over to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.senorfrogs.com/\">Senor Frogs\u003c/a> in Nassau with Anneke Swinehart and Sean Kelly, a place of \"wet t-shirts, yard-long margarita glasses, and alcoholic Kool-Aid,\" that was the first stop of the Bruise Cruise, a floating indie-rock extravaganza of dozens of bands and a whole lot of booze. Swinehart came to the rescue of a friend who was about get roundhoused by a drunken \"cube of jerk\" for pointing that maybe 2AM was a little late for the guy to be out with a baby in tow. \"He was feeding the kid caffeinated beverages so the baby would stay awake and let him keep hanging out at the bar, hitting on teenagers,\" said Swinehart. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, the \"cube of jerk\" (which, as Klatte said, should really be your next band name) punched Swinehart, Kelly jumped the guy from behind, and a lot of drunken security staff moved in. Eventually, the guy was 86'd, only to call the cops and finger a completely different guy--in fact, the drummer of one of the bands--as his attacker. It was a long night, punctuated by an \"indie rock riot\" of crying drunk girls pounding on the police car as the misidentified drummer was hauled away. Eventually, with no charges pressed, everyone got back on the boat for some much-needed cocktails, only to find out that rocker gossip had Swinehart and Kelly busted by the cops for trying to swipe the guy's kid. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Swinehart deadpanned, \"We did not steal a baby at Senor Frogs.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/sandwich500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/sandwich500.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese sandwich from Banh Mi Love You Long Time\" title=\"Vietnamese sandwich from Banh Mi Love You Long Time\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49065\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese sandwich from Banh Mi Love You Long Time\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the intermission, during a second round of equally excellent Vietnamese sandwiches, we found out that Nguyen also makes sandwiches at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.reddevillounge.com/\">Red Devil Lounge\u003c/a>'s open mic every Tuesday, and does bicycle deliveries throughout the city. Her whole setup--baguettes, toaster oven, ingredients--can fit on a bike trailer. Delivery orders of pre-made sandwiches are packed in re-purposed Anchor Steam six-pack cartons and toted in panniers on her regular bike. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/sandwichmaking500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/sandwichmaking500.jpg\" alt=\"Making Vietnamese Sandwiches\" title=\"Making Vietnamese Sandwiches\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49066\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jessica Nguyen making Vietnamese Sandwiches\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in our seats, we were hoping for some food talk from NPR darlings the Kitchen Sisters, Davia Nelson and Nikki Silva, but instead, they'd brought a snippet of their upcoming radio show, \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/makingof/\">The Making of...\u003c/a>, a collaboration with KQED. While there will be food-related segments on upcoming shows, this one focused on the making of \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/homobiles-san-francisco\">Homomobiles\u003c/a>, musician/performer/writer \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lynn_Breedlove\">Lynn Breedlove\u003c/a>'s non-profit cab company geared towards anyone who, by virtue of gender identity, size of wig or volume of body glitter, might not get a fast, safe ride home in an ordinary cab. As Breedlove said, \"You don't have to be a big bad queer to get a ride, but it does help.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But then, after Boots Riley's truly hair-raising story of getting stopped by MPs on Treasure Island (lesson learned: if an MP orders you to pick up your bullet-less, legally registered gun from the trunk of your car to prove that it's unloaded, do not agree), writers and performance artists Ed Wolf and Kirk Read came on to show how it's a slippery slope from veganism to paying $700 to be locked behind barbed-wire gates while rinsing your lower intestines in wheatgrass juice. According to Wolf, identity in San Francisco was easy in the 1970s. You picked your sexual orientation, your hairdo, your drug(s) of choice, and you were set. By the 1990s, when Reed arrived in the City, \"the whole food thing had got out of hand,\" said Wolf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You had to know what you were going to be intolerant of,\" said Reed, \"what enzyme your body was going to not produce.\" Working at a health clinic, surrounded by co-workers who smoke and drank, even did a little recreational heroin but also ate raw or were vegan, Reed heard a lot about a quasi-spiritual, raw-food retreat in San Diego. A two-for-one week was $700. How bad could it be? As freshly minted vegans, they already felt smug--not our problem!--as they drove down I-5 past the \"cowschweitz\" of the Harris Ranch feedlots. And then they arrived, to find a compound surrounded by high security gates festooned with signs reading NO PIZZA DELIVERY--a hint that maybe a week of colonics was more than some weak flesh could bear. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Ed-Kirk500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Ed-Kirk500.jpg\" alt=\"Kirk Read and Ed Wolf at Porchlight\" title=\"Kirk Read and Ed Wolf at Porchlight\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49063\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Kirk Read and Ed Wolf performing at Porchlight\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Breakfast was one disk of watermelon,\" said Wolf. \"You'd put everything, anything on it--cinnamon, seaweed flakes--trying to give it some taste.\" Exercise was impossible; people \"peeled off\" limply during the quarter-mile hikes around the grounds. The big event? The distribution of buckets filled with wheatgrass juice, not for drinking but for, well, internal cleansing. At one point, they snuck off to see \u003cem>Little Miss Sunshine\u003c/em> and share an apple from Trader Joe's. Finally, at the end of the week, they fled. Just before getting back on I-5, they saw, like a beacon of light, a Denny's. \"We put it down!\" laughed Wolf. \"Grand Slam, everything. Do you know how hard it is to spend $39 at Denny's?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Kirk Reed will be performing as part of Yerba Buena Center for the Arts' show \u003ca href=\"http://www.ybca.org/wish-you-were-here\">Wish You Were Here\u003c/a> on Sat, Sept 22, from 8pm-12am.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Coup will be playing at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.treasureislandfestival.com\">Treasure Island Music Festival\u003c/a> on Sat, Oct 13.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Every performance-art event should come with a full bar and handmade banh mi. Porchlight Storytelling kicked off its 11th season at the Mission's Verdi Club with dueling tales of Chinese sex ed, wheatgrass going where no wheatgrass should go, and a very bad night at Senor Frogs. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1348158296,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":23,"wordCount":1587},"headData":{"title":"Banh Mi Love You Long Time's Vietnamese Sandwiches at Porchlight Storytelling | KQED","description":"Every performance-art event should come with a full bar and handmade banh mi. Porchlight Storytelling kicked off its 11th season at the Mission's Verdi Club with dueling tales of Chinese sex ed, wheatgrass going where no wheatgrass should go, and a very bad night at Senor Frogs. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Banh Mi Love You Long Time's Vietnamese Sandwiches at Porchlight Storytelling ","datePublished":"2012-09-19T17:52:37.000Z","dateModified":"2012-09-20T16:24:56.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"48988 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=48988","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/09/19/banh-mi-love-you-long-times-vietnamese-sandwiches-at-porch-light-storytelling/","disqusTitle":"Banh Mi Love You Long Time's Vietnamese Sandwiches at Porchlight Storytelling ","path":"/bayareabites/48988/banh-mi-love-you-long-times-vietnamese-sandwiches-at-porch-light-storytelling","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/beth-arlene500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/beth-arlene500.jpg\" alt=\"Beth Lisick and Arline Klatte at Porchlight\" title=\"Beth Lisick and Arline Klatte at Porchlight\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49061\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Beth Lisick and Arline Klatte at Porchlight\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seriously, every storytelling/reading/performance art show should start in a room that smells like bourbon and banh mi. On Monday, that was the scene at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.verdiclub.net\">Verdi Club\u003c/a> in the northeast Mission, as a capacity crowd squeezed in for the 11th season opener of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.porchlightsf.com\">Porchlight Storytelling Series\u003c/a>. At the old-fashioned bar, the bartenders were busy mixing highballs, grabbing bottles of Peroni and filling stubby glasses to the brim with Italian red. And at a makeshift kitchen (toaster oven, a couple of crock pots, tubs of pickled chiles and squeeze bottles of Sriracha), Jessica Nguyen of \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/bikebanhmi\">Banh Mi Love You Long Time\u003c/a> was stuffing crisp-toasted lengths of baguette with curry tofu, curry chicken, or slow-cooked pork, adding the necessary magic of cilantro, cucumber, carrot, daikon, and chiles, and handing out dozens of the paper-wrapped sandwiches to the chattering crowd with a smile. At $7, a glass of wine cost a buck more than a sandwich, but with both, you could be very happy for less than fifteen bucks. (Or fifteen even, if you did right and tipped both your bartender and your sandwich-maker.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Jessica500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Jessica500.jpg\" alt=\"Jessica Nguyen of Banh Mi Love You Long Time making sandwiches\" title=\"Jessica Nguyen of Banh Mi Love You Long Time making sandwiches\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49064\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jessica Nguyen of Banh Mi Love You Long Time making Vietnamese sandwiches\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having moved to Brooklyn just 6 weeks ago, host Beth Lisick was happy to be back in town and back on stage with her co-host, Arline Klatte, after Porchlight's August hiatus. The theme this time? \u003cstrong>Double Dare\u003c/strong>, one story told in tandem by two tellers. (Although \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/BootsRiley\">Boots Riley\u003c/a>, of Oakland hip-hop band \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/TheCoup\">The Coup\u003c/a>, did get a pass to perform solo, by counting his 6-week-old son in the audience as his silent partner.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First up, a word from the show's sponsor: a don't-quit-your-day-job turn by Chris Mittelstaedt, founder and CEO of \u003ca href=\"http://fruitguys.com\">The Fruit Guys\u003c/a>, who wore a full-length banana suit while belting out an ode to fruit, backed by Fiona and Simone, his (much cooler) twin 11-year-old daughters on drums and bass, who could ditch Dad and start a \u003ca href=\"http://www.thedonnas.com\">Donnas\u003c/a> cover band any day now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(In fact, as we discovered via an email from Mittelstaedt after this article was posted, the girls have been in an all-girl band, \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnlEtDw3umk\">Mysturbia\u003c/a>, for several years now. They'll be playing at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.polkstreetbluesfestival.com\">Polk Street Blues Festival\u003c/a> on Sunday, September 30, at 12 noon as part of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bird-sf.com/music.html\">Bird Music School\u003c/a> set.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Carol-Robert500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Carol-Robert500.jpg\" alt=\"Robert Lawrence and Carol Queen at Porchlight\" title=\"Robert Lawrence and Carol Queen at Porchlight\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49062\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Robert Lawrence and Carol Queen at Porchlight\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up, doctors of sexology \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/carolqueen\">Carol Queen\u003c/a> and Robert Lawrence, founders of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sexandculture.org\">Center for Sex and Culture\u003c/a>, and longtime sex educators, authors, and performers. Carol and I even share a food world connection: back in 1996, we were both contributors to a (now long out-of-print) cookbook of celebrity recipes put together to raise money for AIDS organizations. Titled \u003cem>Food for Life and Other Dish, \u003c/em>it offered recipes for novelist Dorothy Allison's Red Velvet Cake, drag star RuPaul's Coush-Coush, \"The Apple Pie That Seduced My Girlfriend\" from writer Rebecca Brown, and many more. Carol was posed in front of her kitchen counter, breaking eggs, while I was snapped standing on top of my stove holding a pie while wearing a checked gingham dress and a Louise Brooks wig. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, we go way back, Carol and I, but I didn't know that, around the same time as that cookbook was coming out, she and Robert had gotten a $24,000 grant from the Ford Foundation to present a sex-ed lecture (and some educational porn) to the top brass of China's health administration in Beijing. Their week in Beijing, buttressed by a squadron of translators, included a foray to what was, at the time, Beijing's only gay bar, and the discovery of the late-night gay cruising scene near the illegal bok choy market. The Chinese phrase for the semi-public sex happening wherever a tiny slice of semi-privacy could be found? \"Trembling bushes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then it was over to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.senorfrogs.com/\">Senor Frogs\u003c/a> in Nassau with Anneke Swinehart and Sean Kelly, a place of \"wet t-shirts, yard-long margarita glasses, and alcoholic Kool-Aid,\" that was the first stop of the Bruise Cruise, a floating indie-rock extravaganza of dozens of bands and a whole lot of booze. Swinehart came to the rescue of a friend who was about get roundhoused by a drunken \"cube of jerk\" for pointing that maybe 2AM was a little late for the guy to be out with a baby in tow. \"He was feeding the kid caffeinated beverages so the baby would stay awake and let him keep hanging out at the bar, hitting on teenagers,\" said Swinehart. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, the \"cube of jerk\" (which, as Klatte said, should really be your next band name) punched Swinehart, Kelly jumped the guy from behind, and a lot of drunken security staff moved in. Eventually, the guy was 86'd, only to call the cops and finger a completely different guy--in fact, the drummer of one of the bands--as his attacker. It was a long night, punctuated by an \"indie rock riot\" of crying drunk girls pounding on the police car as the misidentified drummer was hauled away. Eventually, with no charges pressed, everyone got back on the boat for some much-needed cocktails, only to find out that rocker gossip had Swinehart and Kelly busted by the cops for trying to swipe the guy's kid. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Swinehart deadpanned, \"We did not steal a baby at Senor Frogs.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/sandwich500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/sandwich500.jpg\" alt=\"Vietnamese sandwich from Banh Mi Love You Long Time\" title=\"Vietnamese sandwich from Banh Mi Love You Long Time\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49065\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese sandwich from Banh Mi Love You Long Time\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the intermission, during a second round of equally excellent Vietnamese sandwiches, we found out that Nguyen also makes sandwiches at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.reddevillounge.com/\">Red Devil Lounge\u003c/a>'s open mic every Tuesday, and does bicycle deliveries throughout the city. Her whole setup--baguettes, toaster oven, ingredients--can fit on a bike trailer. Delivery orders of pre-made sandwiches are packed in re-purposed Anchor Steam six-pack cartons and toted in panniers on her regular bike. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/sandwichmaking500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/sandwichmaking500.jpg\" alt=\"Making Vietnamese Sandwiches\" title=\"Making Vietnamese Sandwiches\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49066\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jessica Nguyen making Vietnamese Sandwiches\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in our seats, we were hoping for some food talk from NPR darlings the Kitchen Sisters, Davia Nelson and Nikki Silva, but instead, they'd brought a snippet of their upcoming radio show, \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/makingof/\">The Making of...\u003c/a>, a collaboration with KQED. While there will be food-related segments on upcoming shows, this one focused on the making of \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/homobiles-san-francisco\">Homomobiles\u003c/a>, musician/performer/writer \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lynn_Breedlove\">Lynn Breedlove\u003c/a>'s non-profit cab company geared towards anyone who, by virtue of gender identity, size of wig or volume of body glitter, might not get a fast, safe ride home in an ordinary cab. As Breedlove said, \"You don't have to be a big bad queer to get a ride, but it does help.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But then, after Boots Riley's truly hair-raising story of getting stopped by MPs on Treasure Island (lesson learned: if an MP orders you to pick up your bullet-less, legally registered gun from the trunk of your car to prove that it's unloaded, do not agree), writers and performance artists Ed Wolf and Kirk Read came on to show how it's a slippery slope from veganism to paying $700 to be locked behind barbed-wire gates while rinsing your lower intestines in wheatgrass juice. According to Wolf, identity in San Francisco was easy in the 1970s. You picked your sexual orientation, your hairdo, your drug(s) of choice, and you were set. By the 1990s, when Reed arrived in the City, \"the whole food thing had got out of hand,\" said Wolf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You had to know what you were going to be intolerant of,\" said Reed, \"what enzyme your body was going to not produce.\" Working at a health clinic, surrounded by co-workers who smoke and drank, even did a little recreational heroin but also ate raw or were vegan, Reed heard a lot about a quasi-spiritual, raw-food retreat in San Diego. A two-for-one week was $700. How bad could it be? As freshly minted vegans, they already felt smug--not our problem!--as they drove down I-5 past the \"cowschweitz\" of the Harris Ranch feedlots. And then they arrived, to find a compound surrounded by high security gates festooned with signs reading NO PIZZA DELIVERY--a hint that maybe a week of colonics was more than some weak flesh could bear. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Ed-Kirk500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Ed-Kirk500.jpg\" alt=\"Kirk Read and Ed Wolf at Porchlight\" title=\"Kirk Read and Ed Wolf at Porchlight\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49063\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Kirk Read and Ed Wolf performing at Porchlight\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Breakfast was one disk of watermelon,\" said Wolf. \"You'd put everything, anything on it--cinnamon, seaweed flakes--trying to give it some taste.\" Exercise was impossible; people \"peeled off\" limply during the quarter-mile hikes around the grounds. The big event? The distribution of buckets filled with wheatgrass juice, not for drinking but for, well, internal cleansing. At one point, they snuck off to see \u003cem>Little Miss Sunshine\u003c/em> and share an apple from Trader Joe's. Finally, at the end of the week, they fled. Just before getting back on I-5, they saw, like a beacon of light, a Denny's. \"We put it down!\" laughed Wolf. \"Grand Slam, everything. Do you know how hard it is to spend $39 at Denny's?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Kirk Reed will be performing as part of Yerba Buena Center for the Arts' show \u003ca href=\"http://www.ybca.org/wish-you-were-here\">Wish You Were Here\u003c/a> on Sat, Sept 22, from 8pm-12am.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Coup will be playing at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.treasureislandfestival.com\">Treasure Island Music Festival\u003c/a> on Sat, Oct 13.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/48988/banh-mi-love-you-long-times-vietnamese-sandwiches-at-porch-light-storytelling","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_2407","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_181"],"tags":["bayareabites_10749","bayareabites_10754","bayareabites_10747","bayareabites_10748","bayareabites_10755","bayareabites_9090","bayareabites_10752","bayareabites_10751","bayareabites_10753","bayareabites_10756","bayareabites_10750"],"featImg":"bayareabites_49061","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. 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Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. 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But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. 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