Tee Tran’s Monster Pho Conquers Oakland with Traditional Vietnamese Cooking
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Do you know your chances of getting a business loan,” she asked rhetorically. “It’s zero! Don’t even think about it.” Rather than discourage him, those cutting remarks inspired Tran to prove her wrong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_99881\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-pho.jpg\" alt=\"Pho at Monster Pho.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-99881\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-pho.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-pho-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-pho-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-pho-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-pho-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-pho-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pho at Monster Pho. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.monsterpho.com\" target=\"_blank\">Monster Pho\u003c/a>, his often-mobbed, year-old Oakland restaurant is a testament to Tran’s tenacity. At lunchtime, the airy dining room is buzzing with banter and tables are filled with a blue-green sea of scrubs, sported by numerous Kaiser Medical Center employees. It’s not just proximity that repeatedly brings Kaiser folks, Cal students and locals alike to the restaurant with the cute monster logo, but gracious service and dependably fresh, traditional Vietnamese cooking. Hearty bowls of pho soup, vermicelli noodle plates, crispy imperial rolls, Vietnamese crepes and banh mi sandwiches are served in a welcoming, light-filled room. Unfailingly polite, Tran treats both his customers and employees like family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Opening a successful restaurant is not the first time this family has beaten the odds. When he was a toddler, Tran, his parents and two older brothers escaped from Vietnam in 1989 as “boat people.” After spending two long years in refugee camps in Thailand and the Philippines, they landed in Oakland--with literally nothing. He remembers the five of them sleeping huddled together for warmth on their bare living room floor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_99882\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/TT-and-Mom.jpg\" alt=\"Tee Tran and mom, Tina Le.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1603\" class=\"size-full wp-image-99882\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/TT-and-Mom.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/TT-and-Mom-400x334.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/TT-and-Mom-800x668.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/TT-and-Mom-1440x1202.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/TT-and-Mom-1180x985.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/TT-and-Mom-960x802.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tee Tran and mom, Tina Le. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tran’s mother, Tina Le, has always been his hero, mentor and inspiration. “She worked four jobs to keep the family afloat [as a dishwasher, babysitter, caregiver and seamstress]. She never took 'failure' as an answer,\" says Tran. Part of his motivation to open a restaurant was to honor his mother and make sure he could take of her, the way she had taken care of the family. Ironically, his devotion to the family recipes resulted in Le’s insistence on working in his kitchen daily to prepare her sauces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tran, now 31, has been an ingenious entrepreneur since the age of eight, when he borrowed money from his mother to purchase candy bars, which he then went door to door and sold for double what he paid. The whole family worked together on paper routes and sewing upholstery samples to earn money for the household. Tran also learned from his mother that no matter the difficulties thrown in one’s path, one should still treat others with respect and kindness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_99883\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Mp-spring-roll.jpg\" alt=\"Monster Pho's spring roll.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2762\" class=\"size-full wp-image-99883\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Mp-spring-roll.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Mp-spring-roll-400x575.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Mp-spring-roll-800x1151.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Mp-spring-roll-1440x2072.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Mp-spring-roll-1180x1697.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Mp-spring-roll-960x1381.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monster Pho's spring roll. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Monster in his restaurant’s name stemmed from Tran’s desire to be different and appeal to kids. Its family-friendly atmosphere includes crayons and coloring book pages to keep little diners busy; plus scissors and small bowls are provided so parents can cut up noodles and pieces of meat into kid-sized bites--in the traditional way. Tran has also made his restaurant 100% peanut-free, an unusual move for a Vietnamese restaurant--where peanuts are regularly ground into sauces or crushed and sprinkled over dishes for texture--but one that has parents of children with peanut allergies cheering\u003cem>. \u003c/em>Tran aims to cater to a range of diners, so his Vegetable Pho uses a 100% vegetarian broth and his Chicken Pho is made with a chicken broth (without beef).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Using her son as an interpreter, Tina Le explains shyly that growing up in Vietnam she was the second oldest of 10 children and helped take care of her siblings. Those duties, plus the fact that her family moved many times, prevented her from regularly attending school. The reason she wanted to bring her family to the U.S. was so that they could get the education she didn’t.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Monster Pho’s menu is simple and straightforward. “Everything is as Mom and Grandma made it,” says Tran. “If you start playing around with fusion, stuffing the spring rolls with all kinds of things, you lose where you came from.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_99884\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/mp-pandan.jpg\" alt=\"Monster Pho's pandan waffle dessert.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-99884\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/mp-pandan.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/mp-pandan-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/mp-pandan-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/mp-pandan-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/mp-pandan-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/mp-pandan-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monster Pho's pandan waffle dessert. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“In Vietnamese culture,” Tran says, “you don’t throw anything away; you use every part of the cow and the chicken.” For the soup broth, he daily simmers 100 pounds of beef bones in a 160-quart pot with onions and spices such as star anise, coriander and ginger. Tran admits they are always fine-tuning the broth. After months of trial and error, they also came up with a version of kelly-green pandan waffles, a popular Vietnamese street food, usually eaten plain. But Tran tops his decadent dessert waffle with ice cream and whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prior to opening Monster Pho, Tran worked for seven years at an auto dealership, that’s coincidentally just down the street. His deeply held feelings about honesty and integrity didn’t exactly match up with the standard operating procedure for car dealers. Tran stubbornly followed his own internal compass, but found out that his fellow car salesmen had a wager going, on how soon he would be fired or quit. “That lit a fire under me,” says Tran “and in my third month, I sold so many cars I almost made ‘Salesman of the Month.’” Although Tran did well selling cars, he knew his future lay elsewhere.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While working at the dealership, he kept a notebook of possible ideas for businesses. After he finally decided to open a Vietnamese restaurant, he scouted the Bay Area for a good location and was surprised to see a For Rent sign in a print shop, down the block from the car dealership. When he approached the landlords with his plan, however, they thought he was joking or crazy. “They brushed me off, but that’s always something that motivates me,” says Tran, smiling. “If people tell me I can’t do something, then I \u003cem>have\u003c/em> to do it. Six months later, he came back and the storefront was still available.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_99887\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1.jpg\" alt=\"Monster Pho's flan with coffee syrup.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" class=\"size-full wp-image-99887\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-1440x1440.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-75x75.jpg 75w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monster Pho's flan with coffee syrup. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, Tran is riding high. He happily greets his loyal customers and oversees the dining room. At Monster Pho, there is often a waiting list to be seated. Oh, and that woman from the Small Business Association who was so discouraging, Tran would like to find her again – to thank her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.monsterpho.com\" target=\"_blank\">Monster Pho\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3905 Broadway, Oakland [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/UGdRcT\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: 510-788-4459\u003cbr>\nHours: Wed-Mon 11am-9pm, Closed Tuesday\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/MonsterPHO?fref=ts\" target=\"_blank\">Monster Pho\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MONSTERPHO\" target=\"_blank\">@MONSTERPHO\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $ (entrees $9-$13)\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Tee Tran's Monster Pho defies expectations. Tran, who opened this Oakland Vietnamese eatery last year, was warned repeatedly that as a first-time restaurant-owner with no previous experience, that his plan was \"impossible\" and \"doomed to fail.\" He has proven his critics wrong with simple, traditional dishes from his mother's recipes, served in a hip, family-friendly atmosphere (that is also 100% peanut-free). ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1441136130,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":15,"wordCount":1154},"headData":{"title":"Tee Tran’s Monster Pho Conquers Oakland with Traditional Vietnamese Cooking | KQED","description":"Tee Tran's Monster Pho defies expectations. Tran, who opened this Oakland Vietnamese eatery last year, was warned repeatedly that as a first-time restaurant-owner with no previous experience, that his plan was "impossible" and "doomed to fail." He has proven his critics wrong with simple, traditional dishes from his mother's recipes, served in a hip, family-friendly atmosphere (that is also 100% peanut-free). ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Tee Tran’s Monster Pho Conquers Oakland with Traditional Vietnamese Cooking","datePublished":"2015-08-31T20:37:44.000Z","dateModified":"2015-09-01T19:35:30.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"99879 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=99879","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/08/31/tee-trans-monster-pho-conquers-oakland-with-traditional-vietnamese-cooking/","disqusTitle":"Tee Tran’s Monster Pho Conquers Oakland with Traditional Vietnamese Cooking","path":"/bayareabites/99879/tee-trans-monster-pho-conquers-oakland-with-traditional-vietnamese-cooking","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When the woman at the Small Business Administration discovered that 25-year old Tee Tran wanted a loan to open a Vietnamese restaurant even though he had absolutely no experience in the food business, she laughed at him. “You’re kidding me, right? Do you know your chances of getting a business loan,” she asked rhetorically. “It’s zero! Don’t even think about it.” Rather than discourage him, those cutting remarks inspired Tran to prove her wrong.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_99881\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-pho.jpg\" alt=\"Pho at Monster Pho.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-99881\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-pho.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-pho-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-pho-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-pho-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-pho-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-pho-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pho at Monster Pho. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.monsterpho.com\" target=\"_blank\">Monster Pho\u003c/a>, his often-mobbed, year-old Oakland restaurant is a testament to Tran’s tenacity. At lunchtime, the airy dining room is buzzing with banter and tables are filled with a blue-green sea of scrubs, sported by numerous Kaiser Medical Center employees. It’s not just proximity that repeatedly brings Kaiser folks, Cal students and locals alike to the restaurant with the cute monster logo, but gracious service and dependably fresh, traditional Vietnamese cooking. Hearty bowls of pho soup, vermicelli noodle plates, crispy imperial rolls, Vietnamese crepes and banh mi sandwiches are served in a welcoming, light-filled room. Unfailingly polite, Tran treats both his customers and employees like family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Opening a successful restaurant is not the first time this family has beaten the odds. When he was a toddler, Tran, his parents and two older brothers escaped from Vietnam in 1989 as “boat people.” After spending two long years in refugee camps in Thailand and the Philippines, they landed in Oakland--with literally nothing. He remembers the five of them sleeping huddled together for warmth on their bare living room floor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_99882\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/TT-and-Mom.jpg\" alt=\"Tee Tran and mom, Tina Le.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1603\" class=\"size-full wp-image-99882\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/TT-and-Mom.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/TT-and-Mom-400x334.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/TT-and-Mom-800x668.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/TT-and-Mom-1440x1202.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/TT-and-Mom-1180x985.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/TT-and-Mom-960x802.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tee Tran and mom, Tina Le. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Tran’s mother, Tina Le, has always been his hero, mentor and inspiration. “She worked four jobs to keep the family afloat [as a dishwasher, babysitter, caregiver and seamstress]. She never took 'failure' as an answer,\" says Tran. Part of his motivation to open a restaurant was to honor his mother and make sure he could take of her, the way she had taken care of the family. Ironically, his devotion to the family recipes resulted in Le’s insistence on working in his kitchen daily to prepare her sauces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tran, now 31, has been an ingenious entrepreneur since the age of eight, when he borrowed money from his mother to purchase candy bars, which he then went door to door and sold for double what he paid. The whole family worked together on paper routes and sewing upholstery samples to earn money for the household. Tran also learned from his mother that no matter the difficulties thrown in one’s path, one should still treat others with respect and kindness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_99883\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Mp-spring-roll.jpg\" alt=\"Monster Pho's spring roll.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2762\" class=\"size-full wp-image-99883\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Mp-spring-roll.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Mp-spring-roll-400x575.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Mp-spring-roll-800x1151.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Mp-spring-roll-1440x2072.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Mp-spring-roll-1180x1697.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Mp-spring-roll-960x1381.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monster Pho's spring roll. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Monster in his restaurant’s name stemmed from Tran’s desire to be different and appeal to kids. Its family-friendly atmosphere includes crayons and coloring book pages to keep little diners busy; plus scissors and small bowls are provided so parents can cut up noodles and pieces of meat into kid-sized bites--in the traditional way. Tran has also made his restaurant 100% peanut-free, an unusual move for a Vietnamese restaurant--where peanuts are regularly ground into sauces or crushed and sprinkled over dishes for texture--but one that has parents of children with peanut allergies cheering\u003cem>. \u003c/em>Tran aims to cater to a range of diners, so his Vegetable Pho uses a 100% vegetarian broth and his Chicken Pho is made with a chicken broth (without beef).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Using her son as an interpreter, Tina Le explains shyly that growing up in Vietnam she was the second oldest of 10 children and helped take care of her siblings. Those duties, plus the fact that her family moved many times, prevented her from regularly attending school. The reason she wanted to bring her family to the U.S. was so that they could get the education she didn’t.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Monster Pho’s menu is simple and straightforward. “Everything is as Mom and Grandma made it,” says Tran. “If you start playing around with fusion, stuffing the spring rolls with all kinds of things, you lose where you came from.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_99884\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/mp-pandan.jpg\" alt=\"Monster Pho's pandan waffle dessert.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-99884\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/mp-pandan.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/mp-pandan-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/mp-pandan-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/mp-pandan-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/mp-pandan-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/mp-pandan-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monster Pho's pandan waffle dessert. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“In Vietnamese culture,” Tran says, “you don’t throw anything away; you use every part of the cow and the chicken.” For the soup broth, he daily simmers 100 pounds of beef bones in a 160-quart pot with onions and spices such as star anise, coriander and ginger. Tran admits they are always fine-tuning the broth. After months of trial and error, they also came up with a version of kelly-green pandan waffles, a popular Vietnamese street food, usually eaten plain. But Tran tops his decadent dessert waffle with ice cream and whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prior to opening Monster Pho, Tran worked for seven years at an auto dealership, that’s coincidentally just down the street. His deeply held feelings about honesty and integrity didn’t exactly match up with the standard operating procedure for car dealers. Tran stubbornly followed his own internal compass, but found out that his fellow car salesmen had a wager going, on how soon he would be fired or quit. “That lit a fire under me,” says Tran “and in my third month, I sold so many cars I almost made ‘Salesman of the Month.’” Although Tran did well selling cars, he knew his future lay elsewhere.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While working at the dealership, he kept a notebook of possible ideas for businesses. After he finally decided to open a Vietnamese restaurant, he scouted the Bay Area for a good location and was surprised to see a For Rent sign in a print shop, down the block from the car dealership. When he approached the landlords with his plan, however, they thought he was joking or crazy. “They brushed me off, but that’s always something that motivates me,” says Tran, smiling. “If people tell me I can’t do something, then I \u003cem>have\u003c/em> to do it. Six months later, he came back and the storefront was still available.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_99887\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1.jpg\" alt=\"Monster Pho's flan with coffee syrup.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1920\" class=\"size-full wp-image-99887\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-400x400.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-800x800.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-1440x1440.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-1180x1180.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-960x960.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-150x150.jpg 150w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/08/Monster-pho-flan1-75x75.jpg 75w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monster Pho's flan with coffee syrup. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, Tran is riding high. He happily greets his loyal customers and oversees the dining room. At Monster Pho, there is often a waiting list to be seated. Oh, and that woman from the Small Business Association who was so discouraging, Tran would like to find her again – to thank her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.monsterpho.com\" target=\"_blank\">Monster Pho\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n3905 Broadway, Oakland [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/UGdRcT\" target=\"_blank\">Map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: 510-788-4459\u003cbr>\nHours: Wed-Mon 11am-9pm, Closed Tuesday\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/MonsterPHO?fref=ts\" target=\"_blank\">Monster Pho\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MONSTERPHO\" target=\"_blank\">@MONSTERPHO\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice Range: $ (entrees $9-$13)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/99879/tee-trans-monster-pho-conquers-oakland-with-traditional-vietnamese-cooking","authors":["5283"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_1246","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_14783","bayareabites_14784","bayareabites_2929","bayareabites_68"],"featImg":"bayareabites_99880","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_68592":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_68592","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"68592","score":null,"sort":[1377016337000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"ramen-to-the-rescue-how-instant-noodles-fight-global-hunger","title":"Ramen to the Rescue: How Instant Noodles Fight Global Hunger ","publishDate":1377016337,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68601\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen-full.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen-full.jpg\" alt=\"A child eats instant noodles on a train at the Harbin Railway Station in northeast China. Photo: WANG JIANWEI/Xinhua /Landov\" width=\"1120\" height=\"840\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68601\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A child eats instant noodles on a train at the Harbin Railway Station in northeast China. Photo: WANG JIANWEI/Xinhua /Landov\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Eliza Barclay, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/16/212671438/ramen-to-the-rescue-how-instant-noodles-fight-global-hunger\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/20/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ask about the foods that have conquered the world and you're likely to hear about Coca-Cola and McDonald's Big Macs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the most successful industrial food ever produced flies far under the radar. And it has finally been outed by three anthropologists in a fascinating \u003ca href=\"http://www.ucpress.edu/book.php?isbn=9780520276345\">new book\u003c/a>, \u003cem>The Noodle Narratives\u003c/em>, which analyzes the precipitous rise – or \"brilliant career,\" as the authors say — of instant ramen, from its birth in postwar Japan to its sales of just over \u003ca href=\"http://instantnoodles.org/noodles/expanding-market.html\">100 billion servings\u003c/a> worldwide in 2012.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take a moment to digest that figure: It's about 14 servings for every single person on Earth, at a cost of just a few cents apiece. That's an astonishing quantity, especially to American consumers, who don't tend to think of the stiff, wavy blocks of noodles as an important staple (though they are for some college students, inmates and low-income Americans). And while our foodie culture currently has a fling with ramen (think ramen bars and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.grubstreet.com/2013/08/new-yorks-changing-ramen-scene.html\">ramen burger\u003c/a>), we're only the world's sixth-biggest market for the noodles, according to the World Instant Noodles Association. Our consumption is dwarfed by that of China and India — and even Vietnam.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68600\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 190px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen3-190x290.jpg\" alt=\"The Noodle Narratives: The Global Rise Of An Industrial Food Into The Twenty-First Century\" width=\"190\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-68600\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Noodle Narratives:\u003cbr>The Global Rise Of An Industrial Food Into The Twenty-First Century\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Indeed, it's the multinational noodle companies' conquest of countries like Papua New Guinea, Nigeria, Brazil and Mexico that really interests the anthropologists: Frederick Errington of Trinity College, Tatsuro Fujikura of Kyoto University and Deborah Gewertz of Amherst College. And it's here that they make one of their most intriguing arguments: Instant noodles do good by alleviating the hunger of millions of people around the world. These super cheap, super palatable noodles, they write, help the low-wage workers in rich and poor countries alike hang on when the going gets tough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're cheap and tasty and tweakable,\" Gewertz tells The Salt. \"They're capable of being transformed to everyone's cultural taste.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Thailand, instant ramen is seasoned with lemongrass and cilantro. Mexicans can buy Maruchan noodle soup cups flecked with \u003ca href=\"http://maruchan.com.mx/mg/vaso-maruchan/\">shrimp, lime and habanero\u003c/a>, among other flavors. Papua New Guineans have incorporated the noodles into rituals as cardinal as weaning babies and honoring the dead, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Japan, the birthplace of instant ramen, the consumer appetite for novel ramen products is so ravenous that manufacturers introduce 600 new flavors a year, the authors report. But it all started in the postwar period.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in 1957, businessman Momofuku Ando (yes, the namesake of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=120012206\">Chef David Chang's beloved restaurants\u003c/a>) decided he wanted to invent an industrial take on freshly made ramen – the stuff Chang has helped make trendy again — for his hungry, budget-minded compatriots using surplus wheat donated by the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took Ando years to perfect the process of making a dry block of noodles. But ultimately he succeeded by applying the \"principle of tempura:\" steaming and dousing the noodles in chicken broth, and then bathing them in hot oil. This dried them out, and made them shelf-stable, but also easy to rehydrate. He added the winning combination of MSG, salt and sugar (which now comes in a flavor packet) to round out the flavor. While industrial instant ramen has evolved new variations, Nissin and the other manufacturers haven't strayed far from Ando's original recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While not exactly nutritious, instant noodles are a \"hunger killer,\" as the authors say. They're made with wheat flour, which has a \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/09/10/160757730/low-and-slow-may-be-the-way-to-go-when-it-comes-to-dieting\">high glycemic index\u003c/a> (a metric for how soon a food is likely to make you hungry again). But they're also fried in palm oil, which is 49 percent saturated fat — higher than pork lard (40 percent) and soybean oil (14 percent).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All that fat keeps you feeling full longer and helps bring the noodles' overall glycemic index down. The fact that instant noodles become soup once you add water helps, too – as the authors note, soup provides longer satiety than, say, noodles alone. And that helps explain why ramen have become a staple of the world's undernourished, and part of some humanitarian food aid packages.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Palm is the industry's oil of choice because it's cheap, it can withstand high heat, and it has a longer shelf life than other oils. But in the U.S., \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/25/205486197/palm-oil-in-the-food-supply-what-you-should-know\">we're told to eat palm oil sparingly\u003c/a> because it raises bad LDL cholesterol levels. So is it really wise for so many people around the world to be so reliant on instant ramen for sustenance? Why can't the urban poor eat something more nutritious than this highly processed, high-fat food?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sure, that would be ideal, the authors say, but the reality is that in many global cities, the urban poor lack affordable alternatives that are more healthful than ramen. \"How are you going to feed these people?\" says Gewertz. \"I would love to feed them with fruits and vegetables at the local markets, but they are expensive.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68599\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen2.jpg\" alt=\"Passengers eat instant noodles at the railway station in Shenyang, China in January 2013. Photo: YANG XINYUE/Xinhua /Landov\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68599\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Passengers eat instant noodles at the railway station in Shenyang, China in January 2013. Photo: YANG XINYUE/Xinhua /Landov\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The authors say that \"real food\" advocates like journalist Michael Pollan, who \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=89876927\">wring their hands\u003c/a> over rising consumption of industrial food like ramen, raise important questions about its perils. But the authors also call ramen a \"virtually unstoppable\" phenomenon. And they foresee a world of 9 billion people \"in which the affluent will be presented with too many food choices and [will be] called upon to use their survival skills to choose wisely, and in which the poor will have to use their survival skills to get by on cheap food\" like ramen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'd love to take Michael Pollan to a squatter settlement and have him deal with poor, hungry people in such circumstances, who have no choice of going back home to grow subsistence crops or be part of a regional food system,\" says Gewertz. \"Subsistence agriculture is hard, dirty and hot work. People want out of it. It's not to be over romanticized.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, as Gerwertz tells us, a better way to help the poor who rely on ramen is to make the noodles more nutritious: they could be \"reduced-sodium, lower-fat, higher-fiber, better fortified,\" though that will also translate into a slightly higher price.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We find it difficult to image the increasingly urbanized food future without this humble form of salt, MSG-enhanced, oily and sometimes sugary\" food, they write. But \"we conclude [that it's for the best] with great reluctance.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The super cheap, super palatable noodles help low-wage workers around the world get by, anthropologists argue in a new book. And rather than lament the ascendance of this highly processed food, they argue we should try to make it more nutritious.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1377016337,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":21,"wordCount":1138},"headData":{"title":"Ramen to the Rescue: How Instant Noodles Fight Global Hunger | KQED","description":"The super cheap, super palatable noodles help low-wage workers around the world get by, anthropologists argue in a new book. And rather than lament the ascendance of this highly processed food, they argue we should try to make it more nutritious.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Ramen to the Rescue: How Instant Noodles Fight Global Hunger ","datePublished":"2013-08-20T16:32:17.000Z","dateModified":"2013-08-20T16:32:17.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"68592 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=68592","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/20/ramen-to-the-rescue-how-instant-noodles-fight-global-hunger/","disqusTitle":"Ramen to the Rescue: How Instant Noodles Fight Global Hunger ","nprByline":"Eliza Barclay","nprStoryId":"212671438","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=212671438&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/16/212671438/ramen-to-the-rescue-how-instant-noodles-fight-global-hunger?ft=3&f=212671438","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 20 Aug 2013 11:59:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 20 Aug 2013 11:53:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 20 Aug 2013 11:59:22 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/68592/ramen-to-the-rescue-how-instant-noodles-fight-global-hunger","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68601\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen-full.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen-full.jpg\" alt=\"A child eats instant noodles on a train at the Harbin Railway Station in northeast China. Photo: WANG JIANWEI/Xinhua /Landov\" width=\"1120\" height=\"840\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68601\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A child eats instant noodles on a train at the Harbin Railway Station in northeast China. Photo: WANG JIANWEI/Xinhua /Landov\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Eliza Barclay, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/16/212671438/ramen-to-the-rescue-how-instant-noodles-fight-global-hunger\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/20/2013)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ask about the foods that have conquered the world and you're likely to hear about Coca-Cola and McDonald's Big Macs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the most successful industrial food ever produced flies far under the radar. And it has finally been outed by three anthropologists in a fascinating \u003ca href=\"http://www.ucpress.edu/book.php?isbn=9780520276345\">new book\u003c/a>, \u003cem>The Noodle Narratives\u003c/em>, which analyzes the precipitous rise – or \"brilliant career,\" as the authors say — of instant ramen, from its birth in postwar Japan to its sales of just over \u003ca href=\"http://instantnoodles.org/noodles/expanding-market.html\">100 billion servings\u003c/a> worldwide in 2012.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take a moment to digest that figure: It's about 14 servings for every single person on Earth, at a cost of just a few cents apiece. That's an astonishing quantity, especially to American consumers, who don't tend to think of the stiff, wavy blocks of noodles as an important staple (though they are for some college students, inmates and low-income Americans). And while our foodie culture currently has a fling with ramen (think ramen bars and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.grubstreet.com/2013/08/new-yorks-changing-ramen-scene.html\">ramen burger\u003c/a>), we're only the world's sixth-biggest market for the noodles, according to the World Instant Noodles Association. Our consumption is dwarfed by that of China and India — and even Vietnam.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68600\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 190px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen3-190x290.jpg\" alt=\"The Noodle Narratives: The Global Rise Of An Industrial Food Into The Twenty-First Century\" width=\"190\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-68600\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Noodle Narratives:\u003cbr>The Global Rise Of An Industrial Food Into The Twenty-First Century\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Indeed, it's the multinational noodle companies' conquest of countries like Papua New Guinea, Nigeria, Brazil and Mexico that really interests the anthropologists: Frederick Errington of Trinity College, Tatsuro Fujikura of Kyoto University and Deborah Gewertz of Amherst College. And it's here that they make one of their most intriguing arguments: Instant noodles do good by alleviating the hunger of millions of people around the world. These super cheap, super palatable noodles, they write, help the low-wage workers in rich and poor countries alike hang on when the going gets tough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're cheap and tasty and tweakable,\" Gewertz tells The Salt. \"They're capable of being transformed to everyone's cultural taste.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Thailand, instant ramen is seasoned with lemongrass and cilantro. Mexicans can buy Maruchan noodle soup cups flecked with \u003ca href=\"http://maruchan.com.mx/mg/vaso-maruchan/\">shrimp, lime and habanero\u003c/a>, among other flavors. Papua New Guineans have incorporated the noodles into rituals as cardinal as weaning babies and honoring the dead, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Japan, the birthplace of instant ramen, the consumer appetite for novel ramen products is so ravenous that manufacturers introduce 600 new flavors a year, the authors report. But it all started in the postwar period.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in 1957, businessman Momofuku Ando (yes, the namesake of \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=120012206\">Chef David Chang's beloved restaurants\u003c/a>) decided he wanted to invent an industrial take on freshly made ramen – the stuff Chang has helped make trendy again — for his hungry, budget-minded compatriots using surplus wheat donated by the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took Ando years to perfect the process of making a dry block of noodles. But ultimately he succeeded by applying the \"principle of tempura:\" steaming and dousing the noodles in chicken broth, and then bathing them in hot oil. This dried them out, and made them shelf-stable, but also easy to rehydrate. He added the winning combination of MSG, salt and sugar (which now comes in a flavor packet) to round out the flavor. While industrial instant ramen has evolved new variations, Nissin and the other manufacturers haven't strayed far from Ando's original recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While not exactly nutritious, instant noodles are a \"hunger killer,\" as the authors say. They're made with wheat flour, which has a \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/09/10/160757730/low-and-slow-may-be-the-way-to-go-when-it-comes-to-dieting\">high glycemic index\u003c/a> (a metric for how soon a food is likely to make you hungry again). But they're also fried in palm oil, which is 49 percent saturated fat — higher than pork lard (40 percent) and soybean oil (14 percent).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All that fat keeps you feeling full longer and helps bring the noodles' overall glycemic index down. The fact that instant noodles become soup once you add water helps, too – as the authors note, soup provides longer satiety than, say, noodles alone. And that helps explain why ramen have become a staple of the world's undernourished, and part of some humanitarian food aid packages.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Palm is the industry's oil of choice because it's cheap, it can withstand high heat, and it has a longer shelf life than other oils. But in the U.S., \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/25/205486197/palm-oil-in-the-food-supply-what-you-should-know\">we're told to eat palm oil sparingly\u003c/a> because it raises bad LDL cholesterol levels. So is it really wise for so many people around the world to be so reliant on instant ramen for sustenance? Why can't the urban poor eat something more nutritious than this highly processed, high-fat food?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sure, that would be ideal, the authors say, but the reality is that in many global cities, the urban poor lack affordable alternatives that are more healthful than ramen. \"How are you going to feed these people?\" says Gewertz. \"I would love to feed them with fruits and vegetables at the local markets, but they are expensive.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68599\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/ramen2.jpg\" alt=\"Passengers eat instant noodles at the railway station in Shenyang, China in January 2013. Photo: YANG XINYUE/Xinhua /Landov\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68599\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Passengers eat instant noodles at the railway station in Shenyang, China in January 2013. Photo: YANG XINYUE/Xinhua /Landov\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The authors say that \"real food\" advocates like journalist Michael Pollan, who \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=89876927\">wring their hands\u003c/a> over rising consumption of industrial food like ramen, raise important questions about its perils. But the authors also call ramen a \"virtually unstoppable\" phenomenon. And they foresee a world of 9 billion people \"in which the affluent will be presented with too many food choices and [will be] called upon to use their survival skills to choose wisely, and in which the poor will have to use their survival skills to get by on cheap food\" like ramen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'd love to take Michael Pollan to a squatter settlement and have him deal with poor, hungry people in such circumstances, who have no choice of going back home to grow subsistence crops or be part of a regional food system,\" says Gewertz. \"Subsistence agriculture is hard, dirty and hot work. People want out of it. It's not to be over romanticized.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, as Gerwertz tells us, a better way to help the poor who rely on ramen is to make the noodles more nutritious: they could be \"reduced-sodium, lower-fat, higher-fiber, better fortified,\" though that will also translate into a slightly higher price.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We find it difficult to image the increasingly urbanized food future without this humble form of salt, MSG-enhanced, oily and sometimes sugary\" food, they write. But \"we conclude [that it's for the best] with great reluctance.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/68592/ramen-to-the-rescue-how-instant-noodles-fight-global-hunger","authors":["byline_bayareabites_68592"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_272","bayareabites_107","bayareabites_989","bayareabites_97","bayareabites_4042","bayareabites_2929"],"featImg":"bayareabites_68598","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_67176":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_67176","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"67176","score":null,"sort":[1375378092000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"where-in-the-world-are-there-no-mcdonalds","title":"Where In The World Are There No McDonald's?","publishDate":1375378092,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_67186\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/mcdonalds-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/mcdonalds-1.jpg\" alt=\"Countries like Cambodia still have yet to gain their own McDonald's franchise, but other American fast food chains, like KFC, have done well here. Photo: bo.peter/via Flickr\" width=\"1120\" height=\"840\" class=\"size-full wp-image-67186\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Countries like Cambodia still have yet to gain their own McDonald's franchise, but other American fast food chains, like KFC, have done well here. Photo: bo.peter/via Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Jessica Naudziunas, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/25/205547517/where-in-the-world-are-there-no-mcdonalds\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/1/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recent news out of Vietnam intrigued us here at The Salt. Ho Chi Minh City is set to get its McDonald's sometime in the next year, according to the company.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It seems Vietnam is ready for the iconic American food, and McDonald's is confident that Vietnamese consumers now have enough disposable income to get hooked on shakes, burgers and fries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That got us thinking about the global reach of one of the world's most iconic food companies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McDonald's may seem to be everywhere, but there are still 105 countries without the fast food giant, from Ghana to Jamaica to Yemen to Tajikistan. And in six countries, McDonald's once had a presence, but due to economics, and sometimes politics, the franchises closed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_67185\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 390px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/mcdonalds-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/mcdonalds-2.jpg\" alt=\"Princeton University's International Networks Archive created this map to show the global presence of McDonald's. Infographic: Jonathan Harris/Princeton University\" width=\"390\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-67185\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Princeton University's International Networks Archive created this map to show the global presence of McDonald's. Infographic: Jonathan Harris/Princeton University\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Still, \u003ca href=\"https://www.edwardjones.com/en_US/media/strategists_analysts/strategists_analysts/russo/index.html\">Jack Russo\u003c/a>, a consumer goods policy analyst with the financial services firm Edward Jones, tells The Salt that McDonald's is \u003ca href=\"http://www.aboutmcdonalds.com/mcd/country/map.html\">well-represented\u003c/a> overseas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Two-thirds of their total revenue is outside of the U.S.,\" Russo says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The company has 34,480 restaurants in 119 countries, including Cuba and France, where it's especially beloved, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/01/24/145698222/why-mcdonalds-in-france-doesnt-feel-like-fast-food\">even by foreigners\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You \u003ca href=\"http://www.aboutmcdonalds.com/content/dam/AboutMcDonalds/Investors/Investor%202013/McDonalds%202012%20Financial%20Information%20Workbook.xlsx\">won't find\u003c/a> a Big Mac if you visit the Vatican City. And if you are one of the rare foreigners to make it inside North Korea, you won't find one there, either.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.princeton.edu/sociology/faculty/centeno/\">Miguel Centeno\u003c/a> is a sociologist at Princeton University. He was part of a team that \u003ca href=\"http://www.princeton.edu/~ina/infographics/\">created maps\u003c/a> to track globalization; one of them is called \"The Fries That Bind Us,\" a colorful look at McDonald's and its reach worldwide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you want a definition of what the rich world and the poor world are, well, if you can get a McDonald's, you are in the rich world,\" Centeno told The Salt. \"If you look at where these restaurants are located, it doesn't map on to culture; it maps on to money.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also sometimes maps onto politics. One of the most recent closures this May was in \u003ca href=\"http://www.balkaninsight.com/en/article/mcdonald-s-closes-in-macedonia\">Macedonia\u003c/a> after disputes between a franchisee and the American headquarters. And in the case of \u003ca href=\"http://latino.foxnews.com/latino/lifestyle/2013/06/28/no-big-macs-in-bolivia-bolivians-prefer-their-burgers-to-fast-food-joints/\">Bolivia\u003c/a>, the government said they'd rather not have fries with that in 2002, when all McDonald's franchises there were closed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just listen to Bolivian President \u003ca href=\"http://www.theguardian.com/world/evo-morales\">Evo Morales\u003c/a> talk about his lack of love for fast food, and you might begin to understand. He recently \u003ca href=\"http://webtv.un.org/search/evo-morales-ayma-president-of-bolivia-on-the-global-launch-of-the-international-year-of-quinoa-2013-press-conference/2178737271001?term=morales&sort=date#full-text\">railed \u003c/a>against Western fast food chains during \u003ca href=\"http://media.npr.org/documents/2013/aug/un-general-assembly-quinoa.pdf\">a speech\u003c/a> in February:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"The major multinational food companies seek to control the production of food and to dominate global markets by imposing their customs and foods. The only goal of such producers is to generate profits. So they standardize food and drinks, turning them into global foods produced on a massive scale with the same formula. They are not interested in the health of human beings, only in their earnings and corporate profits.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But as \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodfirst.org/en/Tanya+kerssen+bio\">Tanya Kerssen\u003c/a>, a food policy analyst with the Institute for Food and Development Policy tells The Salt, Bolivians eat fast food, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Many people have suggested that Bolivians rejected McDonald's out of a cultural preference for traditional, healthy, local and 'slow' foods,\" Kerssen says. \"But a beloved snack is the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bloggingfrombolivia.com/2010/01/bolivian-food-salchipapa.html\">salchipapa\u003c/a> — french fries topped with slices of hot dog, slathered in ketchup and mayonnaise. Most Bolivians, as far as I can tell, love burgers and fries.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the isolated island nation of \u003ca href=\"https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Iceland&rlz=1C1RNVE_enUS540US540&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&sa=N&tab=wl\">Iceland\u003c/a>, their McDonald's departure had more to do with economics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.time.com/time/quotes/0,,1932418,00.html\">Jon Gardar Ogmundsson\u003c/a> owned what was one of only three McDonald's restaurants in the country for about six years before he had to shut his doors after 18 months of financial struggle in 2009.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When we were importing goods, it was doubling and tripling in price,\" he says. \"We always thought in Iceland our currency would recover, but it hasn't, even until today.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People stopped buying burgers at his McDonald's franchise. But the financial crisis didn't keep him out of the burger game. Now, he owns a locally sourced \"green line\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.neurope.eu/article/mcdonald%E2%80%99s-successor-iceland-good-start\">fast food restaurant\u003c/a> called Metro.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, Ogmundsson says, with his newfound ability to price his products as he chooses, and offer more health-conscious meals for discerning Icelanders, Metro \"is actually doing quite well.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003ch3>No McDonald's In These Locales\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Here are a few countries out of the 105 in the world where you won't find McDonald's fries or burgers.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Bermuda*\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Barbados*\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cambodia\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Jamaica*\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Ghana\u003c/li>\n\u003cli> Montenegro\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Yemen\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>* Denotes countries that have had at least one McDonald's restaurant, since closed.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"McDonald's may seem to be everywhere, but there are still 105 countries without the fast food giant, from Ghana to Jamaica to Yemen to Tajikistan. In six countries, McDonald's once had a presence, but due to economics, and sometimes politics, the franchises closed.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1375378286,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":816},"headData":{"title":"Where In The World Are There No McDonald's? | KQED","description":"McDonald's may seem to be everywhere, but there are still 105 countries without the fast food giant, from Ghana to Jamaica to Yemen to Tajikistan. In six countries, McDonald's once had a presence, but due to economics, and sometimes politics, the franchises closed.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Where In The World Are There No McDonald's?","datePublished":"2013-08-01T17:28:12.000Z","dateModified":"2013-08-01T17:31:26.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"67176 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=67176","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/01/where-in-the-world-are-there-no-mcdonalds/","disqusTitle":"Where In The World Are There No McDonald's?","nprByline":"Jessica Naudziunas","nprStoryId":"205547517","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=205547517&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/25/205547517/where-in-the-world-are-there-no-mcdonalds?ft=3&f=205547517","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 01 Aug 2013 13:09:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 01 Aug 2013 11:56:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 01 Aug 2013 13:09:55 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/67176/where-in-the-world-are-there-no-mcdonalds","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_67186\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/mcdonalds-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/mcdonalds-1.jpg\" alt=\"Countries like Cambodia still have yet to gain their own McDonald's franchise, but other American fast food chains, like KFC, have done well here. Photo: bo.peter/via Flickr\" width=\"1120\" height=\"840\" class=\"size-full wp-image-67186\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Countries like Cambodia still have yet to gain their own McDonald's franchise, but other American fast food chains, like KFC, have done well here. Photo: bo.peter/via Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Jessica Naudziunas, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/25/205547517/where-in-the-world-are-there-no-mcdonalds\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/1/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recent news out of Vietnam intrigued us here at The Salt. Ho Chi Minh City is set to get its McDonald's sometime in the next year, according to the company.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It seems Vietnam is ready for the iconic American food, and McDonald's is confident that Vietnamese consumers now have enough disposable income to get hooked on shakes, burgers and fries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That got us thinking about the global reach of one of the world's most iconic food companies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McDonald's may seem to be everywhere, but there are still 105 countries without the fast food giant, from Ghana to Jamaica to Yemen to Tajikistan. And in six countries, McDonald's once had a presence, but due to economics, and sometimes politics, the franchises closed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_67185\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 390px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/mcdonalds-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/mcdonalds-2.jpg\" alt=\"Princeton University's International Networks Archive created this map to show the global presence of McDonald's. Infographic: Jonathan Harris/Princeton University\" width=\"390\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-67185\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Princeton University's International Networks Archive created this map to show the global presence of McDonald's. Infographic: Jonathan Harris/Princeton University\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Still, \u003ca href=\"https://www.edwardjones.com/en_US/media/strategists_analysts/strategists_analysts/russo/index.html\">Jack Russo\u003c/a>, a consumer goods policy analyst with the financial services firm Edward Jones, tells The Salt that McDonald's is \u003ca href=\"http://www.aboutmcdonalds.com/mcd/country/map.html\">well-represented\u003c/a> overseas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Two-thirds of their total revenue is outside of the U.S.,\" Russo says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The company has 34,480 restaurants in 119 countries, including Cuba and France, where it's especially beloved, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/01/24/145698222/why-mcdonalds-in-france-doesnt-feel-like-fast-food\">even by foreigners\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You \u003ca href=\"http://www.aboutmcdonalds.com/content/dam/AboutMcDonalds/Investors/Investor%202013/McDonalds%202012%20Financial%20Information%20Workbook.xlsx\">won't find\u003c/a> a Big Mac if you visit the Vatican City. And if you are one of the rare foreigners to make it inside North Korea, you won't find one there, either.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.princeton.edu/sociology/faculty/centeno/\">Miguel Centeno\u003c/a> is a sociologist at Princeton University. He was part of a team that \u003ca href=\"http://www.princeton.edu/~ina/infographics/\">created maps\u003c/a> to track globalization; one of them is called \"The Fries That Bind Us,\" a colorful look at McDonald's and its reach worldwide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you want a definition of what the rich world and the poor world are, well, if you can get a McDonald's, you are in the rich world,\" Centeno told The Salt. \"If you look at where these restaurants are located, it doesn't map on to culture; it maps on to money.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also sometimes maps onto politics. One of the most recent closures this May was in \u003ca href=\"http://www.balkaninsight.com/en/article/mcdonald-s-closes-in-macedonia\">Macedonia\u003c/a> after disputes between a franchisee and the American headquarters. And in the case of \u003ca href=\"http://latino.foxnews.com/latino/lifestyle/2013/06/28/no-big-macs-in-bolivia-bolivians-prefer-their-burgers-to-fast-food-joints/\">Bolivia\u003c/a>, the government said they'd rather not have fries with that in 2002, when all McDonald's franchises there were closed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just listen to Bolivian President \u003ca href=\"http://www.theguardian.com/world/evo-morales\">Evo Morales\u003c/a> talk about his lack of love for fast food, and you might begin to understand. He recently \u003ca href=\"http://webtv.un.org/search/evo-morales-ayma-president-of-bolivia-on-the-global-launch-of-the-international-year-of-quinoa-2013-press-conference/2178737271001?term=morales&sort=date#full-text\">railed \u003c/a>against Western fast food chains during \u003ca href=\"http://media.npr.org/documents/2013/aug/un-general-assembly-quinoa.pdf\">a speech\u003c/a> in February:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"The major multinational food companies seek to control the production of food and to dominate global markets by imposing their customs and foods. The only goal of such producers is to generate profits. So they standardize food and drinks, turning them into global foods produced on a massive scale with the same formula. They are not interested in the health of human beings, only in their earnings and corporate profits.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>But as \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodfirst.org/en/Tanya+kerssen+bio\">Tanya Kerssen\u003c/a>, a food policy analyst with the Institute for Food and Development Policy tells The Salt, Bolivians eat fast food, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Many people have suggested that Bolivians rejected McDonald's out of a cultural preference for traditional, healthy, local and 'slow' foods,\" Kerssen says. \"But a beloved snack is the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bloggingfrombolivia.com/2010/01/bolivian-food-salchipapa.html\">salchipapa\u003c/a> — french fries topped with slices of hot dog, slathered in ketchup and mayonnaise. Most Bolivians, as far as I can tell, love burgers and fries.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the isolated island nation of \u003ca href=\"https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Iceland&rlz=1C1RNVE_enUS540US540&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&sa=N&tab=wl\">Iceland\u003c/a>, their McDonald's departure had more to do with economics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.time.com/time/quotes/0,,1932418,00.html\">Jon Gardar Ogmundsson\u003c/a> owned what was one of only three McDonald's restaurants in the country for about six years before he had to shut his doors after 18 months of financial struggle in 2009.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When we were importing goods, it was doubling and tripling in price,\" he says. \"We always thought in Iceland our currency would recover, but it hasn't, even until today.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People stopped buying burgers at his McDonald's franchise. But the financial crisis didn't keep him out of the burger game. Now, he owns a locally sourced \"green line\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.neurope.eu/article/mcdonald%E2%80%99s-successor-iceland-good-start\">fast food restaurant\u003c/a> called Metro.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, Ogmundsson says, with his newfound ability to price his products as he chooses, and offer more health-conscious meals for discerning Icelanders, Metro \"is actually doing quite well.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003ch3>No McDonald's In These Locales\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Here are a few countries out of the 105 in the world where you won't find McDonald's fries or burgers.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Bermuda*\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Barbados*\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Cambodia\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Jamaica*\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Ghana\u003c/li>\n\u003cli> Montenegro\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Yemen\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>* Denotes countries that have had at least one McDonald's restaurant, since closed.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/67176/where-in-the-world-are-there-no-mcdonalds","authors":["byline_bayareabites_67176"],"categories":["bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_181"],"tags":["bayareabites_12146","bayareabites_9101","bayareabites_10921","bayareabites_2929"],"featImg":"bayareabites_67185","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_55228":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_55228","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"55228","score":null,"sort":[1359337535000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"martin-yan-m-y-china-vietnam-travels-and-chinese-new-year","title":"Martin Yan: M.Y. China, Vietnam Travels and Chinese New Year","publishDate":1359337535,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55344\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/Martin-Yan-600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/Martin-Yan-600.jpg\" alt=\"Martin Yan. Photo: Creative Mint\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55344\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Martin Yan. Photo: Creative Mint\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Master Chef Martin Yan looked trim and youthful as he presided over a plate of juicy steamed dumplings at his newly opened \u003ca href=\"http://mychinasf.com/\">M.Y. China\u003c/a> restaurant nestled under the dome in San Francisco’s Westfield Shopping Center. M.Y. China is billed as a family friendly restaurant with dim sum, hand pulled noodles, dumplings and other Chinese dishes. During our interview, Yan told us that the menu is an expression of his personal favorites. There is a tidy open kitchen, giant ornamental bell in the bar area, tea service and cocktails for a stylish feel minus any stuffiness. M.Y. China dinner guests can expect to see him both on February 12th and 26th, greeting tables and celebrating the Chinese New Year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55346\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 225px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/martin-yan600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/martin-yan600-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Martin Yan eating steamed dumplings at M.Y. China. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-55346\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Martin Yan eating steamed dumplings at M.Y. China. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Longtime Bay Area resident Yan is a well-known Chinese cooking expert who has hosted his award-winning cooking show \u003ca href=\"http://yancancook.com/\">Yan Can Cook\u003c/a> since the late 1970s. He has broadcast over 3,500 cooking shows worldwide and authored 30 cookbooks. There is also a line of fast-casual restaurants called Yan Can and he has been an Iron Chef America judge. Yan has a Masters in food science from UC Davis and was born in Guangzhou, China to a restaurateur father and a mother who operated a grocery store. At age 13, he apprenticed at a popular Hong Kong restaurant, then studied at the Institute of Cookery in Hong Kong. I interviewed Yan because he has a new TV show about Vietnam coming out and seems to be ever-so-busy with interesting food projects locally and beyond. His comments have been edited for length. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Why open a restaurant in a mall?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yan:\u003c/strong> The Westfield mall invited us to come here. This is one of the busiest malls in Northern California with over 20 million people passing through. Having a brand new M.Y. China in a mall gives us tremendous exposure: there are guests from around the country and around the world. It’s the same reason why people go to Las Vegas and New York to open a restaurant: branding and prime location. The dome is beautiful. Westfield wanted to have a good operation here and gave us a very lucrative offer for tenant improvement. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgM4QtU29Tg]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>What are your favorite dishes?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yan:\u003c/strong> When people develop a menu, they always do a favorite. This menu is small and has only 53 to 55 items; a typical Chinese menu has 250-400 items. We selected some of my personal favorites and went with what we think are everyone’s favorites for the menu. That means every single ones are my favorites (laughs).\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv align=\"center\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/mychina-food.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/mychina-food-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"M.Y. China variety. Photo: Blair Heagerty\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-55354\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/mychinea-interior1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/mychinea-interior1000a-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"M.Y. China interior. Photo: Blair Heagerty\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-55357\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/mychinea-interior1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/mychinea-interior1000-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"M.Y. China interior. Photo: Blair Heagerty\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-55356\">\u003c/a>\u003c/div>\n\n\u003cp>Everything we have done is all handmade and beautifully done. The juicy shanghai dumpling are called that because they are juicy and very moist. I love the cut noodles, beef longevity noodle, Kung Pao chicken and Kung Pao crab. There is a spinach seafood dumpling with tangy garlic sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55355\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 214px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/mychina-noodles600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/mychina-noodles600-214x300.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef, Tony Wu making noodles. Photo: Blair Heagerty\" width=\"214\" height=\"300\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-55355\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef, Tony Wu making noodles. Photo: Blair Heagerty\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We want to have a family restaurant and that’s why we serve family style. We want people to have good food and to share and have healthy food. Our food is very light, we use less salt, less oil, and there is no MSG added. We use as much local ingredients as possible. The wild boar is local and we try to support the local farmer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>You travel often. Where are we with appreciation for other cuisine in the U.S.?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yan:\u003c/strong> There are 54,000 Chinese restaurants in the U.S. and then another 15,000 Asian restaurants. By common sense, there is supply if there is demand. You see more and more sushi. Thirty years ago there was not a lot of sushi places and even 40 years ago the fishermen would not eat their raw fish. It had to be cooked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Americans are becoming more appreciative and adventurous, more accepting and more sophisticated because of TV, cookbooks, and people travel widely. There’s more commerce between the US and China. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think the American palate will continue to expand and grow and be more adventurous. Things they never tried before they now try.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Where have you been lately?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yan:\u003c/strong> I just came back from Manila, Malaysia and Vietnam. I did 26 shows to air later this year, called \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FyWVw4oEkUY\">Taste of Vietnam\u003c/a>. We went to every city and village in Vietnam. I go to Asia eight times a year. I taste it all and try to experience the local culture and heritage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55349\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 225px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/bourdain-martin-yan.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/bourdain-martin-yan-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Anthony Bourdain and Martin Yan. Photo courtesy of Martin Yan\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-55349\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anthony Bourdain and Martin Yan. Photo courtesy of Martin Yan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>How did you come to meet \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2009/03/26/eater_map_mr_bourdains_san_francisco_whereabouts.php\">Anthony Bourdain\u003c/a>?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yan:\u003c/strong> We get invited to go to different places and events and participate -- as celebrity guests. I’ve been with him in Lake Tahoe, and Reno and we got a chance to do things together. I attended some of his presentations. I like that he’s a straight shooter -- a lot of people can’t do that and he’s had the courage to do it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve done events with \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/\">Julia Child\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/essentialpepin/\">Jacques Pepin\u003c/a>, Ming Tsai, and Rachael Ray. Recently I was at Hell’s Kitchen with Gordon Ramsey. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Where do you go to eat when you are in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yan:\u003c/strong> I like \u003ca href=\"http://www.garydanko.com/\">Gary Danko\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.boulevardrestaurant.com/\">Boulevard\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://plus.google.com/111932666905229623393/about?gl=us&hl=en\">Yuet Lee\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.yanksing.com/home.php\">Yank Sing\u003c/a> for dim sum. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the Peninsula, I like the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thekitchenmillbrae.com/\">Kitchen\u003c/a> in Millbrae and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.mayflower-seafood.com/HKFL/index.htm\">Hong Kong Flower Lounge\u003c/a>. I know so many people and chefs so I never order off the menu--it's usually a dish recommended or cooked by the chef. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>What are you working on these days?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yan:\u003c/strong> We have a second M.Y. China set to open in November this year in Santa Rosa. I also have something in the works for Summerland, Las Vegas. With a lot of developers, once they know I want to do a restaurant, they always give us some deal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>It’s the year of the snake. What is your sign?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yan:\u003c/strong> I’m a snake. We're going to do a special New Year dinner and menu. The New Year is always about sharing, family, and longevity. So we’ll serve a lot of noodles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Do you have any guilty pleasure foods?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yan:\u003c/strong> I’ve maintained the same weight for 26 years, and not gone a pound over. I live a very clean, simple life. I eat a lot of vegetables and seafood. I stay away from junk food. I never touch popcorn or chips -- those tortilla chips with the cheese. If I'm going to a movie, I just eat a simple dinner before. A lot of people love snack foods and I don’t. Snack foods are loaded with salt and preservatives. I studied food science at Davis and think \"Why do that to yourself?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.mychinasf.com/\">M.Y. China\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/frk63\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n845 Market Street, 4th Floor\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94103\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (415) 580-3001\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MYChinaSF\">@MYChinaSF\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ChefMartinYan\">@ChefMartinYan\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/mychinasf\">M.Y. China\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/martinyan\">Martin Yan\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Mary Ladd interviews Bay Area resident and Master Chef Martin Yan, who has opened a new Chinese restaurant in San Francisco. Yan dishes about his new TV show, the Year of the Snake, and where he likes to eat locally. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1360642298,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":true,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":22,"wordCount":1226},"headData":{"title":"Martin Yan: M.Y. China, Vietnam Travels and Chinese New Year | KQED","description":"Mary Ladd interviews Bay Area resident and Master Chef Martin Yan, who has opened a new Chinese restaurant in San Francisco. Yan dishes about his new TV show, the Year of the Snake, and where he likes to eat locally. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Martin Yan: M.Y. China, Vietnam Travels and Chinese New Year","datePublished":"2013-01-28T01:45:35.000Z","dateModified":"2013-02-12T04:11:38.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"55228 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=55228","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/01/27/martin-yan-m-y-china-vietnam-travels-and-chinese-new-year/","disqusTitle":"Martin Yan: M.Y. China, Vietnam Travels and Chinese New Year","path":"/bayareabites/55228/martin-yan-m-y-china-vietnam-travels-and-chinese-new-year","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55344\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/Martin-Yan-600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/Martin-Yan-600.jpg\" alt=\"Martin Yan. Photo: Creative Mint\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55344\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Martin Yan. Photo: Creative Mint\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Master Chef Martin Yan looked trim and youthful as he presided over a plate of juicy steamed dumplings at his newly opened \u003ca href=\"http://mychinasf.com/\">M.Y. China\u003c/a> restaurant nestled under the dome in San Francisco’s Westfield Shopping Center. M.Y. China is billed as a family friendly restaurant with dim sum, hand pulled noodles, dumplings and other Chinese dishes. During our interview, Yan told us that the menu is an expression of his personal favorites. There is a tidy open kitchen, giant ornamental bell in the bar area, tea service and cocktails for a stylish feel minus any stuffiness. M.Y. China dinner guests can expect to see him both on February 12th and 26th, greeting tables and celebrating the Chinese New Year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55346\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 225px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/martin-yan600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/martin-yan600-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Martin Yan eating steamed dumplings at M.Y. China. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-55346\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Martin Yan eating steamed dumplings at M.Y. China. Photo: Mary Ladd\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Longtime Bay Area resident Yan is a well-known Chinese cooking expert who has hosted his award-winning cooking show \u003ca href=\"http://yancancook.com/\">Yan Can Cook\u003c/a> since the late 1970s. He has broadcast over 3,500 cooking shows worldwide and authored 30 cookbooks. There is also a line of fast-casual restaurants called Yan Can and he has been an Iron Chef America judge. Yan has a Masters in food science from UC Davis and was born in Guangzhou, China to a restaurateur father and a mother who operated a grocery store. At age 13, he apprenticed at a popular Hong Kong restaurant, then studied at the Institute of Cookery in Hong Kong. I interviewed Yan because he has a new TV show about Vietnam coming out and seems to be ever-so-busy with interesting food projects locally and beyond. His comments have been edited for length. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Why open a restaurant in a mall?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yan:\u003c/strong> The Westfield mall invited us to come here. This is one of the busiest malls in Northern California with over 20 million people passing through. Having a brand new M.Y. China in a mall gives us tremendous exposure: there are guests from around the country and around the world. It’s the same reason why people go to Las Vegas and New York to open a restaurant: branding and prime location. The dome is beautiful. Westfield wanted to have a good operation here and gave us a very lucrative offer for tenant improvement. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/FgM4QtU29Tg'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/FgM4QtU29Tg'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>What are your favorite dishes?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yan:\u003c/strong> When people develop a menu, they always do a favorite. This menu is small and has only 53 to 55 items; a typical Chinese menu has 250-400 items. We selected some of my personal favorites and went with what we think are everyone’s favorites for the menu. That means every single ones are my favorites (laughs).\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv align=\"center\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/mychina-food.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/mychina-food-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"M.Y. China variety. Photo: Blair Heagerty\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-55354\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/mychinea-interior1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/mychinea-interior1000a-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"M.Y. China interior. Photo: Blair Heagerty\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-55357\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/mychinea-interior1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/mychinea-interior1000-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"M.Y. China interior. Photo: Blair Heagerty\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-55356\">\u003c/a>\u003c/div>\n\n\u003cp>Everything we have done is all handmade and beautifully done. The juicy shanghai dumpling are called that because they are juicy and very moist. I love the cut noodles, beef longevity noodle, Kung Pao chicken and Kung Pao crab. There is a spinach seafood dumpling with tangy garlic sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55355\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 214px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/mychina-noodles600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/mychina-noodles600-214x300.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef, Tony Wu making noodles. Photo: Blair Heagerty\" width=\"214\" height=\"300\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-55355\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Executive Chef, Tony Wu making noodles. Photo: Blair Heagerty\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We want to have a family restaurant and that’s why we serve family style. We want people to have good food and to share and have healthy food. Our food is very light, we use less salt, less oil, and there is no MSG added. We use as much local ingredients as possible. The wild boar is local and we try to support the local farmer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>You travel often. Where are we with appreciation for other cuisine in the U.S.?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yan:\u003c/strong> There are 54,000 Chinese restaurants in the U.S. and then another 15,000 Asian restaurants. By common sense, there is supply if there is demand. You see more and more sushi. Thirty years ago there was not a lot of sushi places and even 40 years ago the fishermen would not eat their raw fish. It had to be cooked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Americans are becoming more appreciative and adventurous, more accepting and more sophisticated because of TV, cookbooks, and people travel widely. There’s more commerce between the US and China. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think the American palate will continue to expand and grow and be more adventurous. Things they never tried before they now try.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Where have you been lately?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yan:\u003c/strong> I just came back from Manila, Malaysia and Vietnam. I did 26 shows to air later this year, called \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FyWVw4oEkUY\">Taste of Vietnam\u003c/a>. We went to every city and village in Vietnam. I go to Asia eight times a year. I taste it all and try to experience the local culture and heritage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55349\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 225px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/bourdain-martin-yan.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/bourdain-martin-yan-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Anthony Bourdain and Martin Yan. Photo courtesy of Martin Yan\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-55349\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anthony Bourdain and Martin Yan. Photo courtesy of Martin Yan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>How did you come to meet \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2009/03/26/eater_map_mr_bourdains_san_francisco_whereabouts.php\">Anthony Bourdain\u003c/a>?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yan:\u003c/strong> We get invited to go to different places and events and participate -- as celebrity guests. I’ve been with him in Lake Tahoe, and Reno and we got a chance to do things together. I attended some of his presentations. I like that he’s a straight shooter -- a lot of people can’t do that and he’s had the courage to do it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve done events with \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/\">Julia Child\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/essentialpepin/\">Jacques Pepin\u003c/a>, Ming Tsai, and Rachael Ray. Recently I was at Hell’s Kitchen with Gordon Ramsey. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Where do you go to eat when you are in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yan:\u003c/strong> I like \u003ca href=\"http://www.garydanko.com/\">Gary Danko\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.boulevardrestaurant.com/\">Boulevard\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://plus.google.com/111932666905229623393/about?gl=us&hl=en\">Yuet Lee\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.yanksing.com/home.php\">Yank Sing\u003c/a> for dim sum. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the Peninsula, I like the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thekitchenmillbrae.com/\">Kitchen\u003c/a> in Millbrae and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.mayflower-seafood.com/HKFL/index.htm\">Hong Kong Flower Lounge\u003c/a>. I know so many people and chefs so I never order off the menu--it's usually a dish recommended or cooked by the chef. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>What are you working on these days?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yan:\u003c/strong> We have a second M.Y. China set to open in November this year in Santa Rosa. I also have something in the works for Summerland, Las Vegas. With a lot of developers, once they know I want to do a restaurant, they always give us some deal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>It’s the year of the snake. What is your sign?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yan:\u003c/strong> I’m a snake. We're going to do a special New Year dinner and menu. The New Year is always about sharing, family, and longevity. So we’ll serve a lot of noodles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites: \u003cstrong>Do you have any guilty pleasure foods?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yan:\u003c/strong> I’ve maintained the same weight for 26 years, and not gone a pound over. I live a very clean, simple life. I eat a lot of vegetables and seafood. I stay away from junk food. I never touch popcorn or chips -- those tortilla chips with the cheese. If I'm going to a movie, I just eat a simple dinner before. A lot of people love snack foods and I don’t. Snack foods are loaded with salt and preservatives. I studied food science at Davis and think \"Why do that to yourself?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Related Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.mychinasf.com/\">M.Y. China\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/frk63\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n845 Market Street, 4th Floor\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94103\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (415) 580-3001\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MYChinaSF\">@MYChinaSF\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ChefMartinYan\">@ChefMartinYan\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/mychinasf\">M.Y. China\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/martinyan\">Martin Yan\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/55228/martin-yan-m-y-china-vietnam-travels-and-chinese-new-year","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_61","bayareabites_1593"],"tags":["bayareabites_2386","bayareabites_1784","bayareabites_11093","bayareabites_11091","bayareabites_377","bayareabites_14745","bayareabites_2929","bayareabites_11092","bayareabites_11102"],"featImg":"bayareabites_55351","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_8275":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_8275","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"8275","score":null,"sort":[1258563799000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"vietnamese-coffee-in-pursuit-of-the-perfect-cup","title":"Vietnamese Coffee: In Pursuit of the Perfect Cup","publishDate":1258563799,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnamese-coffee-slow-drip.jpg\" alt=\"vietnamese coffee slow drip\" title=\"vietnamese coffee slow drip\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8283\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese Coffee, Trung Nguyen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoying your slow-drip coffee is a quintessential part of life in Vietnam. Whether you're stoopin' it, shouting your order down the street to the local coffee cart on the corner, or enjoying a carefully prepared cup in an upscale coffee house, Vietnamese coffee is meant to be savored and enjoyed to the max. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One reason is the time it takes to brew a cup. Vietnamese coffee is not for the rushy-rushy. Single servings are brewed through a simple metal filter called a \u003cem>Phin\u003c/em>, which takes a good 5-10 minutes to produce a cup. The filter is fitted over the top of a cup, or glass (if you're making iced coffee), the grounds are placed inside the filter (about the same size grind as what you would use for a French press), a small weighted piece is placed on top, and then hot water is poured into the chamber. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnamese-coffee-phin-filter.jpg\" alt=\"vietnamese coffee phin filter\" title=\"vietnamese coffee phin filter\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8282\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese coffee, Phin filter\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another reason to approach the experience with leisure is simply the heavenly flavor. Like espresso, Vietnamese coffee is deep and rich, and a little goes a long way. What makes it really stand out though in my mind, is its incredible buttery aroma and flavor. It wasn't until I bought some roasted beans from a mom-and-pop coffee/tea shop that I learned why exactly the coffee tasted so buttery -- you got it, it's because the beans are actually roasted in clarified butter! Brilliant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As if that doesn't sound decadent enough, sweetened condensed milk is typically used in lieu of cream and sugar both for practical reasons (it doesn't have to be refrigerated) and for taste (Have you had sweetened condensed milk lately? Think creamy, thick, dulce de leche goodness...in your coffee...\u003cem>everyday\u003c/em>!). This is why Vietnamese coffee is a habit I could really get used to. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/iced-vietnamese-coffee.jpg\" alt=\"iced vietnamese coffee\" title=\"iced vietnamese coffee\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-8279\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese Iced Coffee (Ca Phe Sua Da)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Saigon, with so much fantastic coffee everywhere we turned, it was tough to be too discriminating. So, I left it to the locals to show me the way. Vietnam is a country of food-lovers and total coffee addicts. My favorite conversation starter was asking a local: Where is the best food in town? People would bubble over with recommendations and loved talking about their favorite food, where to get it, and how to eat it. Everyone had an opinion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One afternoon, over a Lazy Susan laden with dim sum, an impassioned discussion over the most delectable \u003cem>banh xeo\u003c/em>, the silkiest tofu, the best hand-pulled noodles with half a crab on top, turned into a full-on debate over where to grab coffee afterward. One fellow named Nguyen insisted, \"The best coffee is at my sister's place,\" and after a few nods of acquiescence from his accompanying friends, we were off to taste for ourselves if he was indeed correct.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We hopped on our motorbikes and went caravanning off through the maze of commuters. Put-putting over main highways, over to District 7 we went...on a mission for the perfect \u003cstrong>Ca Phe Sua Da\u003c/strong> (iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk). It was spontaneous, exhilarating, and as the wind whipped through my hair, I couldn't help but envision Anthony Bourdain's crew on our tracks, kicking up some dust behind us. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/saigon-motorbikes.jpg\" alt=\"saigon motorbikes\" title=\"saigon motorbikes\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8281\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Saigon Motorbike Ebb and Flow\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What we came upon was a breezy little oasis of an internet cafe, tucked away amongst sprawling new developments and construction sites. The cafe itself is called \u003cstrong>Goc Peo\u003c/strong>, but the main signage outside speaks to the main reason for visiting -- the rich and aromatic \u003cstrong>Trung Nguyen\u003c/strong> coffee served. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/coffee-time-at-trung-nguyen.jpg\" alt=\"coffee time at trung nguyen\" title=\"coffee time at trung nguyen\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8278\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Coffee time at Trung Nguyen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trung Nguyen seems to have made a nice business for itself, their chains and signs are all over Saigon, as well as the airport gift shop, and while the prices are expensive by Vietnamese standards, they are still relatively cheap by US standards (a cup of their famous \"Legendee Coffee\" was about $2 USD). Incidentally, Trung Nguyen has a pretty comprehensive website that explains all about what defines Vietnamese coffee and makes it unique, namely:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1)\tThe topography of the Annamite Range has allowed for a diverse variety of beans to flourish in Southeast Asia. By \u003cstrong>blending a variety of bean species\u003c/strong> (Arabica, Robusta, Excelsa and Catimor) rather than sticking to a single-source (like 100% Arabica), a broader flavor range is achieved.\u003cbr>\n2)\tA \u003cstrong>lower-temperature, longer roasting process\u003c/strong> that is stable and consistent.\u003cbr>\n3)\tRoasting the beans in \u003cstrong>clarified butter\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another interesting fact I learned about Trung Nguyen's coffee is that they produce what they call their Legendee Coffee, a \"unique enzymatically-treated coffee that releases flavors bound in the beans and not released under ordinary processing.\" The Legendee Coffee was what Nguyen brought us to taste. Read more about the \u003ca href=\"http://www.trung-nguyen-online.com/legendee.html\">Legend of Legendee\u003c/a> and how modern science has attempted to reproduce the infamously expensive (and kinda gross) Kopi Luwak coffee, made with the help of the weasel-like civit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My final verdict? The Legendee was worth experiencing, although a little intense for me to want to drink on a daily basis. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/iced-vietnamese-coffee-at-trung-nguyen.jpg\" alt=\"iced vietnamese coffee at trung nguyen\" title=\"iced vietnamese coffee at trung nguyen\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8280\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese Iced Coffee, Trung Nguyen \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless, it was a joy to spend an afternoon in pursuit of the perfect cup with company who really loved their coffee. Company who loved it so much, they continued on their way, buzzing away to the next cup as we rookie tourists bid farewell. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>ADDRESS\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Goc Peo\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSo 16 Duong 8B, KDC Trung Son\u003cbr>\nNguyen Van Cu noi dai – TP. Ho Chi Minh City\u003cbr>\nVietnam\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Like espresso, Vietnamese coffee is deep and rich, and a little goes a long way. What makes it really stand out though is its incredible buttery aroma and flavor. Add a generous drizzle of sweetened condensed milk and you have a habit that will be hard to shake. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1258563799,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":23,"wordCount":934},"headData":{"title":"Vietnamese Coffee: In Pursuit of the Perfect Cup | KQED","description":"Like espresso, Vietnamese coffee is deep and rich, and a little goes a long way. What makes it really stand out though is its incredible buttery aroma and flavor. Add a generous drizzle of sweetened condensed milk and you have a habit that will be hard to shake. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Vietnamese Coffee: In Pursuit of the Perfect Cup","datePublished":"2009-11-18T17:03:19.000Z","dateModified":"2009-11-18T17:03:19.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"8275 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=8275","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/11/18/vietnamese-coffee-in-pursuit-of-the-perfect-cup/","disqusTitle":"Vietnamese Coffee: In Pursuit of the Perfect Cup","path":"/bayareabites/8275/vietnamese-coffee-in-pursuit-of-the-perfect-cup","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnamese-coffee-slow-drip.jpg\" alt=\"vietnamese coffee slow drip\" title=\"vietnamese coffee slow drip\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8283\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese Coffee, Trung Nguyen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoying your slow-drip coffee is a quintessential part of life in Vietnam. Whether you're stoopin' it, shouting your order down the street to the local coffee cart on the corner, or enjoying a carefully prepared cup in an upscale coffee house, Vietnamese coffee is meant to be savored and enjoyed to the max. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One reason is the time it takes to brew a cup. Vietnamese coffee is not for the rushy-rushy. Single servings are brewed through a simple metal filter called a \u003cem>Phin\u003c/em>, which takes a good 5-10 minutes to produce a cup. The filter is fitted over the top of a cup, or glass (if you're making iced coffee), the grounds are placed inside the filter (about the same size grind as what you would use for a French press), a small weighted piece is placed on top, and then hot water is poured into the chamber. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnamese-coffee-phin-filter.jpg\" alt=\"vietnamese coffee phin filter\" title=\"vietnamese coffee phin filter\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8282\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese coffee, Phin filter\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another reason to approach the experience with leisure is simply the heavenly flavor. Like espresso, Vietnamese coffee is deep and rich, and a little goes a long way. What makes it really stand out though in my mind, is its incredible buttery aroma and flavor. It wasn't until I bought some roasted beans from a mom-and-pop coffee/tea shop that I learned why exactly the coffee tasted so buttery -- you got it, it's because the beans are actually roasted in clarified butter! Brilliant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As if that doesn't sound decadent enough, sweetened condensed milk is typically used in lieu of cream and sugar both for practical reasons (it doesn't have to be refrigerated) and for taste (Have you had sweetened condensed milk lately? Think creamy, thick, dulce de leche goodness...in your coffee...\u003cem>everyday\u003c/em>!). This is why Vietnamese coffee is a habit I could really get used to. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/iced-vietnamese-coffee.jpg\" alt=\"iced vietnamese coffee\" title=\"iced vietnamese coffee\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-8279\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese Iced Coffee (Ca Phe Sua Da)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Saigon, with so much fantastic coffee everywhere we turned, it was tough to be too discriminating. So, I left it to the locals to show me the way. Vietnam is a country of food-lovers and total coffee addicts. My favorite conversation starter was asking a local: Where is the best food in town? People would bubble over with recommendations and loved talking about their favorite food, where to get it, and how to eat it. Everyone had an opinion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One afternoon, over a Lazy Susan laden with dim sum, an impassioned discussion over the most delectable \u003cem>banh xeo\u003c/em>, the silkiest tofu, the best hand-pulled noodles with half a crab on top, turned into a full-on debate over where to grab coffee afterward. One fellow named Nguyen insisted, \"The best coffee is at my sister's place,\" and after a few nods of acquiescence from his accompanying friends, we were off to taste for ourselves if he was indeed correct.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We hopped on our motorbikes and went caravanning off through the maze of commuters. Put-putting over main highways, over to District 7 we went...on a mission for the perfect \u003cstrong>Ca Phe Sua Da\u003c/strong> (iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk). It was spontaneous, exhilarating, and as the wind whipped through my hair, I couldn't help but envision Anthony Bourdain's crew on our tracks, kicking up some dust behind us. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/saigon-motorbikes.jpg\" alt=\"saigon motorbikes\" title=\"saigon motorbikes\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8281\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Saigon Motorbike Ebb and Flow\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What we came upon was a breezy little oasis of an internet cafe, tucked away amongst sprawling new developments and construction sites. The cafe itself is called \u003cstrong>Goc Peo\u003c/strong>, but the main signage outside speaks to the main reason for visiting -- the rich and aromatic \u003cstrong>Trung Nguyen\u003c/strong> coffee served. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/coffee-time-at-trung-nguyen.jpg\" alt=\"coffee time at trung nguyen\" title=\"coffee time at trung nguyen\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8278\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Coffee time at Trung Nguyen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trung Nguyen seems to have made a nice business for itself, their chains and signs are all over Saigon, as well as the airport gift shop, and while the prices are expensive by Vietnamese standards, they are still relatively cheap by US standards (a cup of their famous \"Legendee Coffee\" was about $2 USD). Incidentally, Trung Nguyen has a pretty comprehensive website that explains all about what defines Vietnamese coffee and makes it unique, namely:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1)\tThe topography of the Annamite Range has allowed for a diverse variety of beans to flourish in Southeast Asia. By \u003cstrong>blending a variety of bean species\u003c/strong> (Arabica, Robusta, Excelsa and Catimor) rather than sticking to a single-source (like 100% Arabica), a broader flavor range is achieved.\u003cbr>\n2)\tA \u003cstrong>lower-temperature, longer roasting process\u003c/strong> that is stable and consistent.\u003cbr>\n3)\tRoasting the beans in \u003cstrong>clarified butter\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another interesting fact I learned about Trung Nguyen's coffee is that they produce what they call their Legendee Coffee, a \"unique enzymatically-treated coffee that releases flavors bound in the beans and not released under ordinary processing.\" The Legendee Coffee was what Nguyen brought us to taste. Read more about the \u003ca href=\"http://www.trung-nguyen-online.com/legendee.html\">Legend of Legendee\u003c/a> and how modern science has attempted to reproduce the infamously expensive (and kinda gross) Kopi Luwak coffee, made with the help of the weasel-like civit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My final verdict? The Legendee was worth experiencing, although a little intense for me to want to drink on a daily basis. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/iced-vietnamese-coffee-at-trung-nguyen.jpg\" alt=\"iced vietnamese coffee at trung nguyen\" title=\"iced vietnamese coffee at trung nguyen\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-8280\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vietnamese Iced Coffee, Trung Nguyen \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless, it was a joy to spend an afternoon in pursuit of the perfect cup with company who really loved their coffee. Company who loved it so much, they continued on their way, buzzing away to the next cup as we rookie tourists bid farewell. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>ADDRESS\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Goc Peo\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSo 16 Duong 8B, KDC Trung Son\u003cbr>\nNguyen Van Cu noi dai – TP. Ho Chi Minh City\u003cbr>\nVietnam\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/8275/vietnamese-coffee-in-pursuit-of-the-perfect-cup","authors":["5037"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1248","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_125","bayareabites_610","bayareabites_14743","bayareabites_2929","bayareabites_68","bayareabites_2997"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_7837":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_7837","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"7837","score":null,"sort":[1257354634000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"saigon-street-food","title":"Saigon Street Food","publishDate":1257354634,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-556.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon snails\" title=\"vietnam saigon snails\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7849\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Making amazing snails in District 1, Oc Huong Pho Mai\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been eating myself silly the past 15 days -- I know, what's new. But no, this has been a really special kind of silly. The eating-my-way-through \u003cstrong>Vietnam\u003c/strong> kind of silly!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, to be more specific, not quite all of Vietnam, since an unexpected detour to Hong Kong for a roundtrip price of $150 proved too tempting to pass up, but for sure, through a majority of Ho Chi Minh City (a.k.a. Saigon).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is a good reason why even hardened eaters like Anthony Bourdain have fallen so in love with the cuisine of Vietnam. It's fresh, vibrant, varied, and satisfying without feeling gluttonously heavy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, most often, it is cooked on the spot, right before your eyes, on the street, by someone who has been making that one particular dish over and over, for years, decades, quite possibly, generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since Hua's father and uncles are locals, we had the benefit of zipping about on the back of their motorbikes (amongst the unimaginable number of other motorbikes on the road), being led by the nose to some of the most delicious food I have ever tasted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's a big statement, I know, but I stand by it. These local favorites are something special. Purveyors of food so good, so exciting, so complex in flavor yet simple in execution, I ate like I was starved (which is absurd because I don’t think I once felt the sensation of \"hunger\" the entire trip). I now pass this joy to you. Go seek these places/dishes out:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-022.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue\" title=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7844\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Place: Nen Nha Dat \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>While I don't think this is the real \"name\" of this vendor, this is what the sign says above the storefront where this little set-up is situated.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dish:\u003c/strong> Cha Gue (pronounced \"chow gway\")\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Translation:\u003c/strong> Pan-fried Rice Flour Cake with Egg\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> 91 Ha Ton Quyen (cross street: Tan Thanh) - P.15, Q.5\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-019.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Awaiting Cha Gue \" title=\"vietnam saigon Awaiting Cha Gue \" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7843\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Awaiting Cha Gue \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located in District 5, sort of like the Chinatown of HCMC, Hua's dad took us here for a snack on Day 1. The bar was set high early. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dish consisted of thick, rectangular pieces of pan-fried rice flour cake. The perfect golden crisp on the outside is beautifully offset by the smooth, supple texture on the inside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the rice cakes are nearing the end of their browning, an egg is cracked over them and the rich orange-hued yolk is broken. Throw a handful of minced green onion on the pan to warm through, and add bits of fried onion, fried pork skin (like little precious bits of chicharrones), and garlic. The dish is then served with a side of homemade pickled daikon and carrot slaw, and a savory dipping sauce of sweet soy sauce and a dollop of chili sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-016.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\" title=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7842\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Cha Gue, hot off the pan, had this corner bumpin', and even in the rain people were pulling up on their motorbikes and shouting their orders to-go from the street. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apparently, business is so good that the owner doesn't want to grow his operations because he's afraid he wouldn't be able to handle the volume. Interesting how this kind of success would inspire a very different response back home, as I envisioned a fleet of Kogi taco trucks multiplying like rabbits in the streets of LA. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-579.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Wok-fried Snails, Oc Huong Pho Mai\" title=\"vietnam saigon Wok-fried Snails, Oc Huong Pho Mai\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7851\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wok-fried Snails, Oc Huong Pho Mai\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Place: Oc Huong Pho Mai\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dish:\u003c/strong> Wok-fried Snails in a heavenly sauce\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Translation:\u003c/strong> Bliss\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> 37/3 Nguyen Cauh Chan - Q.1\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After day of shopping in Saigon Square we were carted off to rejuvenate ourselves with a little pre-dinner feast of the most amazing snails I've ever had.\u003cbr>\nI was skeptical as we turned onto a tiny, dimly-lit, nondescript, side-street. It would have been a little sketchy if it wasn't for the insanely cute kindergarten class that was being held a few doors down. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-543.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon cute kids\" title=\"vietnam saigon cute kids\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7848\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cute kids near snails\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The set up of the shop was typical -- a kitchen (comprised of a few burners and a grill) that spilled out from the ground floor of someone's home onto the street, a few small tables and chairs along the street, and an extra bonus here, a lady squeezing fresh sugarcane juice right across the street! It couldn't have been better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-561.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Making fresh sugarcane juice\" title=\"vietnam saigon Making fresh sugarcane juice\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7850\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Making fresh sugarcane juice\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We over-ordered of course, and out came dishes of small snails, large snails, clams, crab, even \u003cstrong>balut\u003c/strong>! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those unfamiliar, balut is a fertilized duck egg with a nearly-developed embryo inside that is boiled and then eaten out of the shell with a spoon. You heard right, a partial chick (please don't hate me). Since it was my first time trying this delicacy, I was advised not to look directly at it (kind of like that adage of not staring into the sun). The texture can be challenging if you're squeamish, and you can't help but look too closely, but the flavor was good. As expected, a combo of an egg and chicken, but all in one bite. A little dish of salt and pepper mixed with lemon juice added a nice kick of flavor, and of course, some herbage, coriander leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That was probably the most exotic thing I tried on this trip, but the snails! Those may have been the best. Boiled first to cook through, then finished off in a wok, seared until some magical sauce evaporated and coated the shells. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-587.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon eating snails\" title=\"vietnam saigon eating snails\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7852\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Bliss\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The snails themselves were meaty and succulent, but the sauce, now that was truly extraordinary: a little creamy and cheesy, with a touch of sweetness, and a tinge of heat that played on our lips. It was caramelized into almost a crust on the shells. We unabashedly licked our fingers clean while still reaching for more. The flavor teased us as we chased after it, wanting to savor it, have more of it, freakin' bathe in it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-465.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Hu Tiu Nam Vang, Tin Phuc\" title=\"vietnam saigon Hu Tiu Nam Vang, Tin Phuc\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7845\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hu Tiu Nam Vang, Tin Phuc\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Place: Tin Phuc\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dish:\u003c/strong> Hu Tiu Nam Vang (pronounced \"hoo tee-yoo nam vang\")\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Translation:\u003c/strong> Pork and Crab Noodle Soup\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> 16 Duong Dinh Nghe (cross street: Cu Xa Binh Thoi) - P.8, Q.11\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-472.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Tin Phuc\" title=\"vietnam saigon Tin Phuc\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7847\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tin Phuc\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tin Phuc is more of restaurant than actual street food, although, with its breezy architecture, you could technically drive right in if you really wanted to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless, it is delicious. Only one dish is served so you can't mess up the order: Hu Tiu Nam Vang. (In Cantonese we call it \"gum been fun.\") You can order it \"dry\" but the soup is so good that you probably won't want to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Basically, hu tiu is a noodle soup similar to pho, but more seafood-based and with a light broth. Prior to this meal, I had never tasted it before, so I did some research on its origins. Vietnamese culinary expert \u003cstrong>Andrea Nguyen\u003c/strong> had much light to shed regarding this \u003ca href=\"http://vietworldkitchen.typepad.com/blog/2007/11/hu-tieu-nam-van.html\">addictive dish.\u003c/a> According to Andrea, \"At its core, hu tieu signals a Chinese-Southeast Asian style noodle soup made with a pork bone broth and no fish sauce.\" But, there are many riffs on it, one of which is the Nam Vang style, \"Nam Vang\" being the Vietnamese word for Phnom Penh (the capital of Cambodia). Thus, Vietnam's proximity to Cambodia resulted in this Cambodian-Chinese concoction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-468.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon herbs\" title=\"vietnam saigon herbs\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7846\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Herbage\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tin Phuc's rendition of Hu Tiu Nam Vang is divine. The soup is phenomenal, sweet and rich, made from the stock of pork bones and crab shells. The angel-hair-thin opaque rice noodles have just the right amount of springy chew to them. And the toppings are generous portions of pork meat, tendon and heart, crab meat, and shrimp. Tear up handfuls of leafy Romaine, Chinese celery and flat Chinese chives, add some crunchy bean sprouts, a touch of chili pepper, and you good to go. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result is soul-satisfying. Warm, comforting, full of umami, fresh and healthy feeling. I bet a bowl of this could cure a cold like nobody's business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best part? Lunch for 5 people here rolled up to a mere $9.75 USD.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-598.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Street Scene\" title=\"vietnam saigon Street Scene\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7853\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Street Scene\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in September, Thy Tran wrote a great article on \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/01/beyond-festivals-street-food-actually-on-streets-and-sidewalks/\">Street Food Beyond Festivals\u003c/a> in which she compares the young street food culture in the U.S. to other places where it has been \"long embedded into their daily rhythms.\" Witnessing the street food culture of Saigon brought that alive for me. Daily rhythm is right, it seemed like everyone eats out all the time whether it’s having your morning coffee delivered to your front door from the coffee lady down the street, getting some fruit to-go from the number of fruit vendors rolling around, or popping a squat on a little plastic chair at a tea-party-sized table for dinner. Sure, the convenience, affordability, and quality of product are all great. But it is the daily human interaction, the chit chat, the sense of community that comes with it, that makes this daily rhythm so soothing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nen Nha Dat (for Cha Gue)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n91 Ha Ton Quyen (cross street: Tan Thanh) - P.15, Q.5\u003cbr>\nHo Chi Minh City, Vietnam\u003cbr>\nPhone: 0903380574 \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Oc Huong Pho Mai (for Snails)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n37/3 Nguyen Cauh Chan - Q.1\u003cbr>\nHo Chi Minh City, Vietnam\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tin Phuc (for Hu Tiu Nam Vang)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n16 Duong Dinh Nghe (cross street: Cu Xa Binh Thoi) - P.8, Q.11\u003cbr>\nHo Chi Minh City, Vietnam\u003cbr>\nPhone: 3.9627977\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"There is a good reason why even hardened eaters like Anthony Bourdain have fallen so in love with the cuisine of Vietnam. It's fresh, vibrant, varied, and satisfying without feeling gluttonously heavy.\r\n\r\nAnd, most often, it is cooked on the spot, right before your eyes, on the street, by someone who has been making that one particular dish over and over, for years, decades, quite possibly, generations.\r\n\r\nHere are my top 3 street food hidden gems tucked away among the side streets of Ho Chi Minh City.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1257354634,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":44,"wordCount":1614},"headData":{"title":"Saigon Street Food | KQED","description":"There is a good reason why even hardened eaters like Anthony Bourdain have fallen so in love with the cuisine of Vietnam. It's fresh, vibrant, varied, and satisfying without feeling gluttonously heavy.\r\n\r\nAnd, most often, it is cooked on the spot, right before your eyes, on the street, by someone who has been making that one particular dish over and over, for years, decades, quite possibly, generations.\r\n\r\nHere are my top 3 street food hidden gems tucked away among the side streets of Ho Chi Minh City.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Saigon Street Food","datePublished":"2009-11-04T17:10:34.000Z","dateModified":"2009-11-04T17:10:34.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"7837 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=7837","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/11/04/saigon-street-food/","disqusTitle":"Saigon Street Food","path":"/bayareabites/7837/saigon-street-food","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-556.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon snails\" title=\"vietnam saigon snails\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7849\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Making amazing snails in District 1, Oc Huong Pho Mai\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been eating myself silly the past 15 days -- I know, what's new. But no, this has been a really special kind of silly. The eating-my-way-through \u003cstrong>Vietnam\u003c/strong> kind of silly!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, to be more specific, not quite all of Vietnam, since an unexpected detour to Hong Kong for a roundtrip price of $150 proved too tempting to pass up, but for sure, through a majority of Ho Chi Minh City (a.k.a. Saigon).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is a good reason why even hardened eaters like Anthony Bourdain have fallen so in love with the cuisine of Vietnam. It's fresh, vibrant, varied, and satisfying without feeling gluttonously heavy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, most often, it is cooked on the spot, right before your eyes, on the street, by someone who has been making that one particular dish over and over, for years, decades, quite possibly, generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since Hua's father and uncles are locals, we had the benefit of zipping about on the back of their motorbikes (amongst the unimaginable number of other motorbikes on the road), being led by the nose to some of the most delicious food I have ever tasted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's a big statement, I know, but I stand by it. These local favorites are something special. Purveyors of food so good, so exciting, so complex in flavor yet simple in execution, I ate like I was starved (which is absurd because I don’t think I once felt the sensation of \"hunger\" the entire trip). I now pass this joy to you. Go seek these places/dishes out:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-022.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue\" title=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7844\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Place: Nen Nha Dat \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>While I don't think this is the real \"name\" of this vendor, this is what the sign says above the storefront where this little set-up is situated.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dish:\u003c/strong> Cha Gue (pronounced \"chow gway\")\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Translation:\u003c/strong> Pan-fried Rice Flour Cake with Egg\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> 91 Ha Ton Quyen (cross street: Tan Thanh) - P.15, Q.5\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-019.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Awaiting Cha Gue \" title=\"vietnam saigon Awaiting Cha Gue \" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7843\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Awaiting Cha Gue \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located in District 5, sort of like the Chinatown of HCMC, Hua's dad took us here for a snack on Day 1. The bar was set high early. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dish consisted of thick, rectangular pieces of pan-fried rice flour cake. The perfect golden crisp on the outside is beautifully offset by the smooth, supple texture on the inside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the rice cakes are nearing the end of their browning, an egg is cracked over them and the rich orange-hued yolk is broken. Throw a handful of minced green onion on the pan to warm through, and add bits of fried onion, fried pork skin (like little precious bits of chicharrones), and garlic. The dish is then served with a side of homemade pickled daikon and carrot slaw, and a savory dipping sauce of sweet soy sauce and a dollop of chili sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-016.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\" title=\"vietnam saigon Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7842\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cha Gue, Nen Nha Dat\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Cha Gue, hot off the pan, had this corner bumpin', and even in the rain people were pulling up on their motorbikes and shouting their orders to-go from the street. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apparently, business is so good that the owner doesn't want to grow his operations because he's afraid he wouldn't be able to handle the volume. Interesting how this kind of success would inspire a very different response back home, as I envisioned a fleet of Kogi taco trucks multiplying like rabbits in the streets of LA. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-579.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Wok-fried Snails, Oc Huong Pho Mai\" title=\"vietnam saigon Wok-fried Snails, Oc Huong Pho Mai\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7851\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wok-fried Snails, Oc Huong Pho Mai\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Place: Oc Huong Pho Mai\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dish:\u003c/strong> Wok-fried Snails in a heavenly sauce\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Translation:\u003c/strong> Bliss\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> 37/3 Nguyen Cauh Chan - Q.1\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After day of shopping in Saigon Square we were carted off to rejuvenate ourselves with a little pre-dinner feast of the most amazing snails I've ever had.\u003cbr>\nI was skeptical as we turned onto a tiny, dimly-lit, nondescript, side-street. It would have been a little sketchy if it wasn't for the insanely cute kindergarten class that was being held a few doors down. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-543.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon cute kids\" title=\"vietnam saigon cute kids\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7848\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cute kids near snails\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The set up of the shop was typical -- a kitchen (comprised of a few burners and a grill) that spilled out from the ground floor of someone's home onto the street, a few small tables and chairs along the street, and an extra bonus here, a lady squeezing fresh sugarcane juice right across the street! It couldn't have been better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-561.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Making fresh sugarcane juice\" title=\"vietnam saigon Making fresh sugarcane juice\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7850\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Making fresh sugarcane juice\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We over-ordered of course, and out came dishes of small snails, large snails, clams, crab, even \u003cstrong>balut\u003c/strong>! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those unfamiliar, balut is a fertilized duck egg with a nearly-developed embryo inside that is boiled and then eaten out of the shell with a spoon. You heard right, a partial chick (please don't hate me). Since it was my first time trying this delicacy, I was advised not to look directly at it (kind of like that adage of not staring into the sun). The texture can be challenging if you're squeamish, and you can't help but look too closely, but the flavor was good. As expected, a combo of an egg and chicken, but all in one bite. A little dish of salt and pepper mixed with lemon juice added a nice kick of flavor, and of course, some herbage, coriander leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That was probably the most exotic thing I tried on this trip, but the snails! Those may have been the best. Boiled first to cook through, then finished off in a wok, seared until some magical sauce evaporated and coated the shells. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-587.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon eating snails\" title=\"vietnam saigon eating snails\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7852\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Bliss\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The snails themselves were meaty and succulent, but the sauce, now that was truly extraordinary: a little creamy and cheesy, with a touch of sweetness, and a tinge of heat that played on our lips. It was caramelized into almost a crust on the shells. We unabashedly licked our fingers clean while still reaching for more. The flavor teased us as we chased after it, wanting to savor it, have more of it, freakin' bathe in it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-465.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Hu Tiu Nam Vang, Tin Phuc\" title=\"vietnam saigon Hu Tiu Nam Vang, Tin Phuc\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7845\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hu Tiu Nam Vang, Tin Phuc\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Place: Tin Phuc\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Dish:\u003c/strong> Hu Tiu Nam Vang (pronounced \"hoo tee-yoo nam vang\")\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Translation:\u003c/strong> Pork and Crab Noodle Soup\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> 16 Duong Dinh Nghe (cross street: Cu Xa Binh Thoi) - P.8, Q.11\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-472.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Tin Phuc\" title=\"vietnam saigon Tin Phuc\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7847\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tin Phuc\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tin Phuc is more of restaurant than actual street food, although, with its breezy architecture, you could technically drive right in if you really wanted to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless, it is delicious. Only one dish is served so you can't mess up the order: Hu Tiu Nam Vang. (In Cantonese we call it \"gum been fun.\") You can order it \"dry\" but the soup is so good that you probably won't want to.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Basically, hu tiu is a noodle soup similar to pho, but more seafood-based and with a light broth. Prior to this meal, I had never tasted it before, so I did some research on its origins. Vietnamese culinary expert \u003cstrong>Andrea Nguyen\u003c/strong> had much light to shed regarding this \u003ca href=\"http://vietworldkitchen.typepad.com/blog/2007/11/hu-tieu-nam-van.html\">addictive dish.\u003c/a> According to Andrea, \"At its core, hu tieu signals a Chinese-Southeast Asian style noodle soup made with a pork bone broth and no fish sauce.\" But, there are many riffs on it, one of which is the Nam Vang style, \"Nam Vang\" being the Vietnamese word for Phnom Penh (the capital of Cambodia). Thus, Vietnam's proximity to Cambodia resulted in this Cambodian-Chinese concoction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-468.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon herbs\" title=\"vietnam saigon herbs\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7846\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Herbage\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tin Phuc's rendition of Hu Tiu Nam Vang is divine. The soup is phenomenal, sweet and rich, made from the stock of pork bones and crab shells. The angel-hair-thin opaque rice noodles have just the right amount of springy chew to them. And the toppings are generous portions of pork meat, tendon and heart, crab meat, and shrimp. Tear up handfuls of leafy Romaine, Chinese celery and flat Chinese chives, add some crunchy bean sprouts, a touch of chili pepper, and you good to go. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result is soul-satisfying. Warm, comforting, full of umami, fresh and healthy feeling. I bet a bowl of this could cure a cold like nobody's business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best part? Lunch for 5 people here rolled up to a mere $9.75 USD.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/11/vietnam_saigon_oct09-598.jpg\" alt=\"vietnam saigon Street Scene\" title=\"vietnam saigon Street Scene\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7853\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Street Scene\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in September, Thy Tran wrote a great article on \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/01/beyond-festivals-street-food-actually-on-streets-and-sidewalks/\">Street Food Beyond Festivals\u003c/a> in which she compares the young street food culture in the U.S. to other places where it has been \"long embedded into their daily rhythms.\" Witnessing the street food culture of Saigon brought that alive for me. Daily rhythm is right, it seemed like everyone eats out all the time whether it’s having your morning coffee delivered to your front door from the coffee lady down the street, getting some fruit to-go from the number of fruit vendors rolling around, or popping a squat on a little plastic chair at a tea-party-sized table for dinner. Sure, the convenience, affordability, and quality of product are all great. But it is the daily human interaction, the chit chat, the sense of community that comes with it, that makes this daily rhythm so soothing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Nen Nha Dat (for Cha Gue)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n91 Ha Ton Quyen (cross street: Tan Thanh) - P.15, Q.5\u003cbr>\nHo Chi Minh City, Vietnam\u003cbr>\nPhone: 0903380574 \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Oc Huong Pho Mai (for Snails)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n37/3 Nguyen Cauh Chan - Q.1\u003cbr>\nHo Chi Minh City, Vietnam\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tin Phuc (for Hu Tiu Nam Vang)\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n16 Duong Dinh Nghe (cross street: Cu Xa Binh Thoi) - P.8, Q.11\u003cbr>\nHo Chi Minh City, Vietnam\u003cbr>\nPhone: 3.9627977\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/7837/saigon-street-food","authors":["5037"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_181","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_610","bayareabites_14749","bayareabites_2929"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_6528":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_6528","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"6528","score":null,"sort":[1251819747000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"beyond-festivals-street-food-actually-on-streets-and-sidewalks","title":"Beyond Festivals: Street Food Actually on Streets and Sidewalks","publishDate":1251819747,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/streetfood_hongkong2.jpg\" alt=\"streetfood hong kong\" title=\"streetfood in hong kong\" width=\"400\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6547\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These last two weekends in the Bay Area have been a celebration of the best and the biggest of food on the go. \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://eatrealfest.com/\">Eat Real\u003c/a> both showed that there are indeed thousands of people willing to stand in long lines in the full heat of summer to try any tasty treat served from a bicycle or cart, tent or renovated taco truck.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it was a bit like eating Thanksgiving dinner, my cousin's 12-course wedding banquet and my mom's new year's brunch all in the same week. The specialness of each blurred together, and the meaning of each was lost in the flurry of food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If we would like to see the creativity of those festivals extended to the other 362 days of the year, we now need to divert some of our gustatory energy to ensuring systemic support of microenterprise. Yes, I know, public policy and economic reform is not nearly as sexy as a coconut-basil popsicle. And, yes, talking about immigration and community development is such a downer. Tweeting is way more fun than writing letters to our city supervisors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/streetfood_laos1.jpg\" alt=\"street food in laos\" title=\"street food in laos\" width=\"375\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6542\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the U.S., our concept of business has always been closely bound to owning or renting property. With the words \u003ci>legitimate\u003c/i> and \u003ci>legal\u003c/i> defining benchmarks for entrepreneurs, street food rarely receives the kind of public awareness and support that other countries have long embedded into their daily rhythms. In some countries, nearly half of the food consumed comes from street vendors, and in Africa, Asia and Latin America, the street food sector employs from 6 to 25 percent of the urban work force, often involving entire families across generations. (See\u003cem> Street Foods: World Review of Nutrition and Dietetics\u003c/em>, ed. A.D. Simonpaulos, 2000.) \u003ca href=\"http://www.consumersinternational.org/\">Consumers International\u003c/a>, an independent organization working in 116 countries, has been researching and working closely with governments to support street food for over 30 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>India and Singapore may serve as useful examples for us. Their burgeoning street food scenes are both relatively young. Singapore was established in 1959, and within ten years, the government realized the need to regulate street food vendors without diluting the island's distinctive culinary culture. Any eater who has made the pilgrimage to Singapore knows well that hawker centres a.k.a. food centres, with their endless stretches of food stalls, are the very effective and delicious compromise. While a few taxi drivers and old-timers may still grumble about how chicken rice just doesn't taste the same in air-conditioning, no one would think of giving up their neighborhood food centre. Located in the first floors of apartment complexes as well as concentrated in specially zoned, multi-level, sprawling malls, food hawkers are truly a day-to-day part of life in Singapore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/streetfood_hongkong1.jpg\" alt=\"street food hong kong\" title=\"street food hong kong\" width=\"500\" height=\"353\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6539\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In India, where maintaining the purity of food was inherent in cooking and eating and where strict adherence to caste distinctions limited eating food prepared by strangers, street food has only become popular in the past few decades. Since then, it has grown into such a huge, sprawling aspect of the urban landscape that its Supreme Court recently moved to \u003ca href=\"http://ibnlive.in.com/news/its-goodbye-to-delhi-street-food/40791-3.html\">ban\u003c/a> the preparation of food in public areas in New Delhi. Vendors will have to prepare their food at home and then sell them pre-packaged. (Caffeine, however, was specifically not criminalized: coffee and tea vendors enjoy a special dispensation.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As expected, there was an outcry from vendors all across India. More interestingly, Indians who depend on street food for inexpensive meals complained that they wouldn't be able to watch the food being cooked, thus would not be able to witness its freshness and cleanliness. In countries where immediate quality is much more important than gimmick or branding, enforcing safety with off-site facilities may well give way to the transparency of a sidewalk stove.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/streetfood_laos2.jpg\" alt=\"street food in laos\" title=\"street food in laos\" width=\"375\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6541\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thailand's \u003ca href=\"http://www.fao.org/DOCREP/MEETING/004/AB523E.HTM\">\"Clean Food Good Taste\"\u003c/a> campaign, launched in 1989, is a program that values the needs of small street vendors as well as restaurants. Especially critical to its success, the plan includes a public education program and cooperation across several government agencies at municipal, regional and federal levels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in California, Sacramento has tried to \u003ca href=\"http://www.newsreview.com/sacramento/content?oid=946140\">rein in\u003c/a> taco trucks, while San Francisco this summer attempted to both \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?type=food&f=/c/a/2009/05/26/MN6317MLGI.DTL\">welcome and regulate food carts\u003c/a> in its city parks. Similar to New Delhi, the city adopted an ordinance requiring street food to be prepared in certified, off-site kitchens. With higher fees and the need for larger, more expensive carts, street food will more likely become an extension of well-established restaurants and more deeply capitalized entrepreneurs. While protecting our public health is certainly important, new laws need to be considered and discussed within the larger context of our city's culture and economic development.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If we as eaters want creative, locally based and locally relevant street vendors integrated into our culinary landscape, then we as citizens need to push our legislators to build a system that supports--not weeds out--very small businesses. It's one thing to push a cart around Dolores Park on the weekends as a hobby during your salad days. It's much another to bring in a living wage and move your family up the ladder while providing food for others day in, day out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/streetfood_hanoi1.jpg\" alt=\"street food in hanoi\" title=\"street food in hanoi\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6540\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The whole issue of diversity was an obvious part of both street food festivals. We all like to think that San Francisco is one of the culinary capitals of the world. I'm counting down the years until San Jose or Santa Clara, Fremont or Fresno take over the reputation of truly international cuisine that they already deserve. Until then, I'd still like to see our city become more willing to support the full spectrum of culinary businesses. This means not only seeing unusual foods spelled out on the menu board. It means seeing a variety of people pushing the carts and pocketing the money.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/streetfood_thailand1.jpg\" alt=\"street food in thailand\" title=\"street food in thailand\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6537\">\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"These last two weekends in the Bay Area have shown that there are indeed thousands of people willing to stand in long lines in the full heat of summer to try any tasty treat served from a bicycle or cart, tent or renovated taco truck.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1257354793,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":19,"wordCount":988},"headData":{"title":"Beyond Festivals: Street Food Actually on Streets and Sidewalks | KQED","description":"These last two weekends in the Bay Area have shown that there are indeed thousands of people willing to stand in long lines in the full heat of summer to try any tasty treat served from a bicycle or cart, tent or renovated taco truck.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Beyond Festivals: Street Food Actually on Streets and Sidewalks","datePublished":"2009-09-01T15:42:27.000Z","dateModified":"2009-11-04T17:13:13.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"6528 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=6528","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/01/beyond-festivals-street-food-actually-on-streets-and-sidewalks/","disqusTitle":"Beyond Festivals: Street Food Actually on Streets and Sidewalks","path":"/bayareabites/6528/beyond-festivals-street-food-actually-on-streets-and-sidewalks","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/streetfood_hongkong2.jpg\" alt=\"streetfood hong kong\" title=\"streetfood in hong kong\" width=\"400\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6547\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These last two weekends in the Bay Area have been a celebration of the best and the biggest of food on the go. \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://eatrealfest.com/\">Eat Real\u003c/a> both showed that there are indeed thousands of people willing to stand in long lines in the full heat of summer to try any tasty treat served from a bicycle or cart, tent or renovated taco truck.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it was a bit like eating Thanksgiving dinner, my cousin's 12-course wedding banquet and my mom's new year's brunch all in the same week. The specialness of each blurred together, and the meaning of each was lost in the flurry of food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If we would like to see the creativity of those festivals extended to the other 362 days of the year, we now need to divert some of our gustatory energy to ensuring systemic support of microenterprise. Yes, I know, public policy and economic reform is not nearly as sexy as a coconut-basil popsicle. And, yes, talking about immigration and community development is such a downer. Tweeting is way more fun than writing letters to our city supervisors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/streetfood_laos1.jpg\" alt=\"street food in laos\" title=\"street food in laos\" width=\"375\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6542\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the U.S., our concept of business has always been closely bound to owning or renting property. With the words \u003ci>legitimate\u003c/i> and \u003ci>legal\u003c/i> defining benchmarks for entrepreneurs, street food rarely receives the kind of public awareness and support that other countries have long embedded into their daily rhythms. In some countries, nearly half of the food consumed comes from street vendors, and in Africa, Asia and Latin America, the street food sector employs from 6 to 25 percent of the urban work force, often involving entire families across generations. (See\u003cem> Street Foods: World Review of Nutrition and Dietetics\u003c/em>, ed. A.D. Simonpaulos, 2000.) \u003ca href=\"http://www.consumersinternational.org/\">Consumers International\u003c/a>, an independent organization working in 116 countries, has been researching and working closely with governments to support street food for over 30 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>India and Singapore may serve as useful examples for us. Their burgeoning street food scenes are both relatively young. Singapore was established in 1959, and within ten years, the government realized the need to regulate street food vendors without diluting the island's distinctive culinary culture. Any eater who has made the pilgrimage to Singapore knows well that hawker centres a.k.a. food centres, with their endless stretches of food stalls, are the very effective and delicious compromise. While a few taxi drivers and old-timers may still grumble about how chicken rice just doesn't taste the same in air-conditioning, no one would think of giving up their neighborhood food centre. Located in the first floors of apartment complexes as well as concentrated in specially zoned, multi-level, sprawling malls, food hawkers are truly a day-to-day part of life in Singapore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/streetfood_hongkong1.jpg\" alt=\"street food hong kong\" title=\"street food hong kong\" width=\"500\" height=\"353\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6539\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In India, where maintaining the purity of food was inherent in cooking and eating and where strict adherence to caste distinctions limited eating food prepared by strangers, street food has only become popular in the past few decades. Since then, it has grown into such a huge, sprawling aspect of the urban landscape that its Supreme Court recently moved to \u003ca href=\"http://ibnlive.in.com/news/its-goodbye-to-delhi-street-food/40791-3.html\">ban\u003c/a> the preparation of food in public areas in New Delhi. Vendors will have to prepare their food at home and then sell them pre-packaged. (Caffeine, however, was specifically not criminalized: coffee and tea vendors enjoy a special dispensation.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As expected, there was an outcry from vendors all across India. More interestingly, Indians who depend on street food for inexpensive meals complained that they wouldn't be able to watch the food being cooked, thus would not be able to witness its freshness and cleanliness. In countries where immediate quality is much more important than gimmick or branding, enforcing safety with off-site facilities may well give way to the transparency of a sidewalk stove.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/streetfood_laos2.jpg\" alt=\"street food in laos\" title=\"street food in laos\" width=\"375\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6541\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thailand's \u003ca href=\"http://www.fao.org/DOCREP/MEETING/004/AB523E.HTM\">\"Clean Food Good Taste\"\u003c/a> campaign, launched in 1989, is a program that values the needs of small street vendors as well as restaurants. Especially critical to its success, the plan includes a public education program and cooperation across several government agencies at municipal, regional and federal levels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in California, Sacramento has tried to \u003ca href=\"http://www.newsreview.com/sacramento/content?oid=946140\">rein in\u003c/a> taco trucks, while San Francisco this summer attempted to both \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?type=food&f=/c/a/2009/05/26/MN6317MLGI.DTL\">welcome and regulate food carts\u003c/a> in its city parks. Similar to New Delhi, the city adopted an ordinance requiring street food to be prepared in certified, off-site kitchens. With higher fees and the need for larger, more expensive carts, street food will more likely become an extension of well-established restaurants and more deeply capitalized entrepreneurs. While protecting our public health is certainly important, new laws need to be considered and discussed within the larger context of our city's culture and economic development.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If we as eaters want creative, locally based and locally relevant street vendors integrated into our culinary landscape, then we as citizens need to push our legislators to build a system that supports--not weeds out--very small businesses. It's one thing to push a cart around Dolores Park on the weekends as a hobby during your salad days. It's much another to bring in a living wage and move your family up the ladder while providing food for others day in, day out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/streetfood_hanoi1.jpg\" alt=\"street food in hanoi\" title=\"street food in hanoi\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6540\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The whole issue of diversity was an obvious part of both street food festivals. We all like to think that San Francisco is one of the culinary capitals of the world. I'm counting down the years until San Jose or Santa Clara, Fremont or Fresno take over the reputation of truly international cuisine that they already deserve. Until then, I'd still like to see our city become more willing to support the full spectrum of culinary businesses. This means not only seeing unusual foods spelled out on the menu board. It means seeing a variety of people pushing the carts and pocketing the money.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/streetfood_thailand1.jpg\" alt=\"street food in thailand\" title=\"street food in thailand\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6537\">\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/6528/beyond-festivals-street-food-actually-on-streets-and-sidewalks","authors":["5018"],"categories":["bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_181"],"tags":["bayareabites_565","bayareabites_1412","bayareabites_611","bayareabites_1362","bayareabites_2931","bayareabites_2243","bayareabites_512","bayareabites_2625","bayareabites_14749","bayareabites_2932","bayareabites_2929"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. 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But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. 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Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.","airtime":"THU 10pm, FRI 1am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Commonwealth Club of California"},"link":"/radio/program/commonwealth-club","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Commonwealth-Club-of-California-p1060/"}},"considerthis":{"id":"considerthis","title":"Consider This","tagline":"Make sense of the day","info":"Make sense of the day. Every weekday afternoon, Consider This helps you consider the major stories of the day in less than 15 minutes, featuring the reporting and storytelling resources of NPR. Plus, KQED’s Bianca Taylor brings you the local KQED news you need to know.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Consider-This-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"Consider This from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/considerthis","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"7"},"link":"/podcasts/considerthis","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1503226625?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/coronavirusdaily","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM1NS9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbA","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3Z6JdCS2d0eFEpXHKI6WqH"}},"forum":{"id":"forum","title":"Forum","tagline":"The conversation starts here","info":"KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal","officialWebsiteLink":"/forum","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"8"},"link":"/forum","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/kqeds-forum/id73329719","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432307980/forum","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqedfm-kqeds-forum-podcast","rss":"https://feeds.megaphone.fm/KQINC9557381633"}},"freakonomics-radio":{"id":"freakonomics-radio","title":"Freakonomics Radio","info":"Freakonomics Radio is a one-hour award-winning podcast and public-radio project hosted by Stephen Dubner, with co-author Steve Levitt as a regular guest. 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Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.","airtime":"MON-THU 11am-12pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Here-And-Now-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"http://www.wbur.org/hereandnow","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/here-and-now","subsdcribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=426698661","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Here--Now-p211/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510051/podcast.xml"}},"how-i-built-this":{"id":"how-i-built-this","title":"How I Built This with Guy Raz","info":"Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. 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No other part of the globe has experienced such dynamic political and social change in recent years.","airtime":"SAT 3am-4am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Inside-Europe-Podcast-Tile-300x300-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Deutsche Welle"},"link":"/radio/program/inside-europe","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/inside-europe/id80106806?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Inside-Europe-p731/","rss":"https://partner.dw.com/xml/podcast_inside-europe"}},"latino-usa":{"id":"latino-usa","title":"Latino USA","airtime":"MON 1am-2am, SUN 6pm-7pm","info":"Latino USA, the radio journal of news and culture, is the only national, English-language radio program produced from a Latino perspective.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/latinoUsa.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"http://latinousa.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/latino-usa","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/xtTd","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=79681317&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Latino-USA-p621/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510016/podcast.xml"}},"live-from-here-highlights":{"id":"live-from-here-highlights","title":"Live from Here Highlights","info":"Chris Thile steps to the mic as the host of Live from Here (formerly A Prairie Home Companion), a live public radio variety show. 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Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.","airtime":"MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.marketplace.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"American Public Media"},"link":"/radio/program/marketplace","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=201853034&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/APM-Marketplace-p88/","rss":"https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"}},"mindshift":{"id":"mindshift","title":"MindShift","tagline":"A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids","info":"The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.","airtime":"MON-FRI 3am-9am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/morning-edition"},"onourwatch":{"id":"onourwatch","title":"On Our Watch","tagline":"Police secrets, unsealed","info":"For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. 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