Film "Soul Food Junkies" Examines African American Cuisine and Culture
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Dyson","publishDate":1340576054,"status":"inherit","parent":44986,"modified":1340576054,"caption":null,"credit":null,"description":null,"imgSizes":{"kqedFullSize":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/Tamearra-Dyson.jpg","width":400,"height":539}},"fetchFailed":false,"isLoading":false}},"audioPlayerReducer":{"postId":"stream_live"},"authorsReducer":{"annamindess":{"type":"authors","id":"5283","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5283","found":true},"name":"Anna Mindess","firstName":"Anna","lastName":"Mindess","slug":"annamindess","email":"amindess@aol.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"My passion is exploring the connections between food, travel and culture. I am a regular contributor to AFAR, Edible East Bay Magazine, Oakland Magazine, Berkeleyside's NOSH and other publications. I usually take a route that's slightly off the beaten path, like \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2017/fun-with-food-insults/\">collecting food-related insults\u003c/a> around the world or \u003ca href=\"https://www.afar.com/magazine/what-i-learned-hawking-sweet-potatoes-with-a-street-vendor-in-taiwan?email=amindess%40aol.com&utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Doctors%20Without%20Borders&utm_term=Daily%20Wander%20Newsletter\">volunteering with a Sweet Potato Mama\u003c/a> (street food seller) in Tapei.\r\n\r\nCulture is the thread that ties together my several careers. I also work as a sign language interpreter, educator and author. My study of Deaf culture has taken me around the world, where I am always on a quest to find Deaf-owned restaurants. I love making connections between my different worlds, for example in this AFAR story where I share \u003ca href=\"https://www.afar.com/magazine/tips-from-a-sign-language-interpreter-for-overcoming-language-barriers\">tips for communicating across cultures\u003c/a> that I learned from the real experts, Deaf people. Or this \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2017/deaf-chefs-compete/\">profile of a Deaf chef and culinary arts instructor\u003c/a> at the California School for the Deaf.\r\n\r\nTo see my visual/edible take on the world, follow me on Instagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/annamindess/\">annamindess. \u003c/a>\r\n\r\nFor more of my stories: visit Contently \u003ca href=\"http://annamindess.contently.com\">annamindess.contently.com\u003c/a>","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["author"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Anna Mindess | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/annamindess"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_44986":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_44986","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"44986","score":null,"sort":[1340661235000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"film-soul-food-junkies-examines-african-american-cuisine-and-culture","title":"Film \"Soul Food Junkies\" Examines African American Cuisine and Culture","publishDate":1340661235,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"http://player.vimeo.com/video/37075801\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://vimeo.com/37075801\">\"Soul Food Junkies\" 2012 Trailer\u003c/a> from \u003ca href=\"http://vimeo.com/byronhurt\">Byron Hurt\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mac and cheese oozing buttery-goodness, thickly-crusted golden fried chicken, greens swimming in pork fat, chunky ribs slathered in smoky sauce, red velvet cake sporting an inch of icing. Are these a cherished part of African American culture or a recipe for an early death? The answer is both, as last Thursday’s West Coast premiere of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bhurt.com/\">Byron Hurt\u003c/a>’s movie \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/SoulFoodJunkies\">Soul Food Junkies\u003c/a> vividly demonstrated. The screening at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.oakarts.org/\">Oakland School for the Arts\u003c/a> was co-sponsored by KQED and \u003ca href=\"http://bayarea.the-hub.net/\">the HUB\u003c/a>. The event closed the \u003ca href=\"http://www.huboakland.net/hub-oakland-kqed-co-sponsor-the-oakland-innovation-film-lab-june-18-21-2012/\">The Oakland Innovation Film Lab\u003c/a> and was followed by a panel discussion with local food activists and a spread of treats from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/souley-vegan-oakland\">Souley Vegan Restaurant\u003c/a> in Oakland. All three aspects of the evening were enthusiastically received by the young, artistic-looking, urban, mostly African American crowd.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/Tamearra-Dyson.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/Tamearra-Dyson.jpg\" alt=\"Tamearra Dyson\" title=\"Tamearra Dyson\" width=\"400\" height=\"539\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44995\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Souley Vegan's Tamearra Dyson and a plate of fried okra\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this documentary film, selected by KQED’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/tv/programs/index.jsp?pgmid=8630\">Independent Lens Series\u003c/a> to air in the upcoming 2012-13 season, Hurt uses his own family’s story as a through-line, centering on his father’s unflagging devotion to the artery-clogging classic dishes in the soul food repertoire. Hurt recalls that growing up he wanted to be just like his “Pops” and copied his Sunday breakfast ritual of grits and eggs, smothered with cheese, salt pork and bacon. After college, Hurt, (as well as his sister and mother) altered their diets. But, his father continued to gain weight, refusing to change his eating habits, even in the face of the pancreatic cancer that ultimately took his life at an early age. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hurt's personal story is flanked throughout the film by commentary from a range of historians, scholars, soul food chefs, doctors, and everyday folk who illuminate the cultural complexities in the African American relationship to food. “Soul food is a repository for our history,” says one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Discussions about food in the historical context of slavery and the Jim Crow era help to illuminate the subject. Slavery was an economic institution and slaves had to be fed enough to survive the long voyage. Once here, some were expected to grow their own food and others hunted and fished like they did back in Africa. Also, female slaves were doing the cooking for the people in the big house and taking care of the children. “The hand of the African in the pot transformed Southern cooking,” comments one food expert. “Survival food for slaves became delicacies.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Slaves did what they needed to do to survive and make it through harsh times,\" explains Hurt. \"Then that way of cooking got passed down from generation to generation. And today there is a reluctance to let go of the vestiges of the way of life of our forefathers and foremothers, even though things have changed: foods are now processed and full of chemicals and we’re not as active as previous generations.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/sfj-fried-chicken.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/sfj-fried-chicken.jpeg\" alt=\"soul food junkies fried chicken\" title=\"soul food junkies fried chicken\" width=\"560\" height=\"372\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-45002\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Fried chicken. Photo: Shawn Escoffery\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hurt’s mother describes the reasons she always prepared box lunches for the family to eat on their annual drives from their home in Long Island to Georgia. Because of Jim Crow laws, Black people could not be sure of finding hotels or restaurants that would serve them during road trips and so routinely brought hearty lunches of fried chicken and sides to keep them satisfied until they reached their destination.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More recent history shows that there has been a movement for healthy food awareness in African American culture for many years. “The best moments of the black freedom struggle, was with organizations like the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Panther_Party\">Black Panthers\u003c/a>,\" comments a food historian. \"They understood the relationship of developing a Black nation and the necessity of developing a healthy diet.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Others interviewed in the film, however, are still very attached to Soul Food (the term was first coined in the '60s) and find creative rationalizations to keep eating it, such as, “Eve was made out of Adam’s rib, so ribs must be good.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/sfj.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/sfj.jpeg\" alt=\"Ribs, cabbage, rice, and potato salad on the side. Photo: Shawn Escoffery\" title=\"Ribs, cabbage, rice, and potato salad on the side. Photo: Shawn Escoffery\" width=\"560\" height=\"372\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-45004\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ribs, cabbage, rice, and potato salad on the side. Photo: Shawn Escoffery\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A poignant scene has Hurt stopping by some tailgating partiers at Mississippi's Jackson State University. The affable group of guys shows Hurt their “Junk Pot”--a huge stock pot filled with corn, pigs ears, pig feet and “everything else that’s not good for you.” With classic Southern hospitality, they invite him to have a sample. Hurt, who has stopped eating pork, doesn’t wish to offend these gentlemen, and so delicately extracts a small cob of corn to taste. This ploy does not escape the partiers who insist he take some meat. Hurt finally does sample a dripping turkey neck and reluctantly admits how delicious it is.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Educating any cultural group about the unhealthiness of treasured comfort food is a challenge because the concept of “comfort” connects us to foods that mom or grandma made and even fed us with her own hands. This primal, sensory gratification exists on an emotional, pre-verbal level, which does not speak the rational language of blood pressure screenings. In 2010, \u003ca href=\"http://saulsdeli.com/deli/referendum-on-the-deli-menu/\">Saul’s Deli in Berkeley\u003c/a> engaged in a similar debate and dialogue regarding nostalgia for “real” deli food (e.g. mile-high pastrami sandwiches) vs. the wisdom of sustainability. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a woman in \u003cstrong>Soul Food Junkies\u003c/strong> put it simply, “It’s comfort food, you eat it and it makes you feel better.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet, in the face of staggering statistics of diabetes, high blood pressure, and certain types of cancer rampant the African American community, food experts in the film comment on the urgent need to increase awareness and make changes now, before it’s too late. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“If you want to wipe out an entire generation of people and engage in a 21st century genocide, all you have to do is to continue doing what we’re doing and deprive people of access to healthy food.”\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Food justice, food deserts, lack of access to healthy food and the proliferation of fast food all play a critical role in this discussion. As one food scholar puts it, “In America, there is a class-based apartheid in the food system.” Hurt realizes that traditions, especially those that speak to times of family togetherness and comfort, are resistant to change. Instead of quitting classic soul food dishes cold turkey, some cooks in the film choose to tweak traditional recipes, like making oven-baked, skinless chicken instead of deep-fried. “We have to make it a part of popular culture. We have the power to change and if we don’t, we’ll be sick and die.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/SoulFoodJunkies\">Soul Food Junkies\u003c/a> makes clear that hope for the future rests with the children. One of the last shots in the film is a group of African American elementary school children from \u003ca href=\"http://www.stphilipsacademy.org/\">St. Philips Academy\u003c/a> in Newark, New Jersey. The school’s “family-style lunch program, rooftop garden, teaching kitchen and science lab encourage an understanding of sustainability from seed to table.” We see the children yell happily, “Vegetables are Soul Food!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hurt’s last film, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bhurt.com/beyondBeatsAndRhymes.php\">Hip-Hop: Beyond Beats and Rhymes\u003c/a>, an award-winning documentary, was also selected for Independent Lens. It examines \"masculinity and manhood in rap and hip-hop, where creative genius collides with misogyny, violence and homophobia, exposing the complex intersections of culture and commerce.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/byron-hurt400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/byron-hurt400.jpg\" alt=\"Byron Hurt credit Rebecca Bfresh McDonald\" title=\"Byron Hurt credit Rebecca Bfresh McDonald\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-45014\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem> Filmmaker Byron Hurt. Photo: Rebecca Bfresh McDonald\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>INTERVIEW WITH BYRON HURT\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>BAB briefly interviewed \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/byronhurt\">Byron Hurt\u003c/a> by phone, while he was attending the \u003ca href=\"http://abff.com/festival/\">American Black Film Festival\u003c/a> in Miami where \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/SoulFoodJunkies\">Soul Food Junkies\u003c/a> won Best Documentary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>First you took on hip-hop and now soul food, are you trying to change African American culture?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI’d say I’m trying to make the culture better and stronger and challenge people to think critically about their culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is your goal?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nTo challenge and inform people’s thinking. I‘m trying to create tools that inspire and educate so there can be a transformation and evolution to greater self-awareness. I used myself and my family as examples of what happens when you decide to change your diet and when you don’t. There might be many people out there who have been wanting to change, but need a nudge or some inspiration. Or maybe they want to help a family member or co-worker to change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Isn’t comfort food hard to be rational about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIt is a very hard thing. I may have underestimated how hard it is. I saw with my own eyes that despite all the health challenges, it was still difficult for my father to change the way he ate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What inspired you personally to change your diet?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIt was my sister who set the first example in my family when she changed to a plant-based diet and I saw how healthy she looked. I had started to gain weight in my late 20s and early 30s. I realized that not being involved in athletics anymore [Hurt was a football quarterback in college] I couldn’t continue to eat and eat and eat the same way I had been. So I changed my diet and lost weight and felt better. My mom was more open than my father. She was a nurturer. She changed the way she cooked because she wanted to make us happy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>LOCAL RESPONSE FROM PANEL\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Closer to home, the panel of food activists after the Oakland screening of \u003cstrong>Soul Food Junkies\u003c/strong> said much to stir up the crowd.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/Aekta300.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/Aekta300.jpg\" alt=\"Aekta Shah of I-SEEED\" title=\"Aekta Shah of I-SEEED\" width=\"300\" height=\"352\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-45017\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Aekta Shah of I-SEEED at Harvard. Photo courtesy of Aekta Shah\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Aekta Shah, who works with \u003ca href=\"http://iseeed.org/\">I-SEEED\u003c/a> -- The Institute for Sustainable Economic, Educational, and Environmental Design, described two exciting projects. In 2011, about 30 high school students from Oakland, Richmond and San Leandro hit the streets to check out the statistics from the Alameda County Department of Public Health report that there were about 100 grocery stores in Oakland. First the students had to come up with their own definition of “grocery store.” Does that mean it carries fresh produce? Skim, 1% and 2% milk, instead of just whole milk? A certain ratio of healthy to junk food? Affordable choices? Then they formed teams and walked through stores in their own neighborhoods, documenting what they found, recording audio testimonials, taking photos of the shelves. The students uploaded their data and photos onto a Google-map-like interface and ultimately shared their findings with representatives of Alameda County Public Health Department to begin a dialogue around community-based solutions to these issues of food access. In a related follow up, \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ISEEED\">I-SEEED\u003c/a> is in conversation with \u003ca href=\"http://www.cafreshworks.com/\">California FreshWorks\u003c/a> around partnering to help finance owners of neighborhood liquor stores to transform their stores into grocery stores stocking healthy food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/Bryant-Terry.credit-jennifer-martine-aspx1.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/Bryant-Terry.credit-jennifer-martine-aspx1.jpeg\" alt=\"Eco-chef and author Bryant Terry. Photo: Jennifer Martin\" title=\"Eco-chef and author Bryant Terry. Photo: Jennifer Martin\" width=\"560\" height=\"468\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44994\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Eco-chef and author Bryant Terry. Photo: Jennifer Martin\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eco-chef, food activist and author of several \u003ca href=\"http://www.bryant-terry.com/autho/\">vegan soul food cookbooks\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bryant-terry.com/\">Bryant Terry\u003c/a> spoke eloquently both as a commenter in Hurt’s film as well as a panelist. The problem, says Terry, is not soul food per se, but the industrialization of our food supply. The industrial food complex spends billions of dollars trying to convince people to eat food that’s the worst for them: highest in fat and sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/bryantterry\">Terry\u003c/a>, who moved to Oakland in 2006 for its natural beauty and calls the Bay Area “my spiritual home,” points out that, “Eating close to the land is not a new invention, African Americas have been green, with aunties and grandmothers who grew their own food for generations. You can still be a “brother of color and eat healthy. You don’t have to be a crunchy-granola, Birkenstock-wearing hippie.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When people say African American cuisine, they think it’s synonymous with Soul Food, the deep-fried fatty meats like fried chicken and sugary desserts like red velvet cake -- which used to be just for holidays and celebrations. I’m not necessarily trying to discard those completely but get people to recognize these are only a part of our food ways. Things have changed over the past 40-50 years. My grandparents had an urban farm. They grew vegetables, fruits and nuts. Any dietician would tell you we should all be eating more fruit and vegetables. Somehow growing food has taken on the meaning of being backward and just country folk. But it is vital to our society.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"We are in a war!,\" declared Terry, \"If people are not aware and do not learn how to grow their own food they will be starving in a few decades. Corporations like Whole Foods are not the answer. What’s important is that people empower themselves to be self-sufficient!\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Soul Food Junkies, a new film by Byron Hurt which will be featured on KQED's Independent Lens series, had its West Coast premiere in Oakland. Soul Food is both a beloved part of African American culture and a leading cause behind the epidemic of diabetes, heart disease and other health issues. The film details the historical and social influences on soul food and efforts by many to change the eating habits of a whole generation.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1358219739,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":true,"hasChartOrMap":true,"iframeSrcs":["http://player.vimeo.com/video/37075801"],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":39,"wordCount":2183},"headData":{"title":"Film \"Soul Food Junkies\" Examines African American Cuisine and Culture | KQED","description":"Soul Food Junkies, a new film by Byron Hurt which will be featured on KQED's Independent Lens series, had its West Coast premiere in Oakland. Soul Food is both a beloved part of African American culture and a leading cause behind the epidemic of diabetes, heart disease and other health issues. The film details the historical and social influences on soul food and efforts by many to change the eating habits of a whole generation.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"44986 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=44986","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/06/25/film-soul-food-junkies-examines-african-american-cuisine-and-culture/","disqusTitle":"Film \"Soul Food Junkies\" Examines African American Cuisine and Culture","path":"/bayareabites/44986/film-soul-food-junkies-examines-african-american-cuisine-and-culture","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"http://player.vimeo.com/video/37075801\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://vimeo.com/37075801\">\"Soul Food Junkies\" 2012 Trailer\u003c/a> from \u003ca href=\"http://vimeo.com/byronhurt\">Byron Hurt\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mac and cheese oozing buttery-goodness, thickly-crusted golden fried chicken, greens swimming in pork fat, chunky ribs slathered in smoky sauce, red velvet cake sporting an inch of icing. Are these a cherished part of African American culture or a recipe for an early death? The answer is both, as last Thursday’s West Coast premiere of \u003ca href=\"http://www.bhurt.com/\">Byron Hurt\u003c/a>’s movie \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/SoulFoodJunkies\">Soul Food Junkies\u003c/a> vividly demonstrated. The screening at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.oakarts.org/\">Oakland School for the Arts\u003c/a> was co-sponsored by KQED and \u003ca href=\"http://bayarea.the-hub.net/\">the HUB\u003c/a>. The event closed the \u003ca href=\"http://www.huboakland.net/hub-oakland-kqed-co-sponsor-the-oakland-innovation-film-lab-june-18-21-2012/\">The Oakland Innovation Film Lab\u003c/a> and was followed by a panel discussion with local food activists and a spread of treats from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/souley-vegan-oakland\">Souley Vegan Restaurant\u003c/a> in Oakland. All three aspects of the evening were enthusiastically received by the young, artistic-looking, urban, mostly African American crowd.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/Tamearra-Dyson.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/Tamearra-Dyson.jpg\" alt=\"Tamearra Dyson\" title=\"Tamearra Dyson\" width=\"400\" height=\"539\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44995\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Souley Vegan's Tamearra Dyson and a plate of fried okra\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this documentary film, selected by KQED’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/tv/programs/index.jsp?pgmid=8630\">Independent Lens Series\u003c/a> to air in the upcoming 2012-13 season, Hurt uses his own family’s story as a through-line, centering on his father’s unflagging devotion to the artery-clogging classic dishes in the soul food repertoire. Hurt recalls that growing up he wanted to be just like his “Pops” and copied his Sunday breakfast ritual of grits and eggs, smothered with cheese, salt pork and bacon. After college, Hurt, (as well as his sister and mother) altered their diets. But, his father continued to gain weight, refusing to change his eating habits, even in the face of the pancreatic cancer that ultimately took his life at an early age. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hurt's personal story is flanked throughout the film by commentary from a range of historians, scholars, soul food chefs, doctors, and everyday folk who illuminate the cultural complexities in the African American relationship to food. “Soul food is a repository for our history,” says one. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Discussions about food in the historical context of slavery and the Jim Crow era help to illuminate the subject. Slavery was an economic institution and slaves had to be fed enough to survive the long voyage. Once here, some were expected to grow their own food and others hunted and fished like they did back in Africa. Also, female slaves were doing the cooking for the people in the big house and taking care of the children. “The hand of the African in the pot transformed Southern cooking,” comments one food expert. “Survival food for slaves became delicacies.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Slaves did what they needed to do to survive and make it through harsh times,\" explains Hurt. \"Then that way of cooking got passed down from generation to generation. And today there is a reluctance to let go of the vestiges of the way of life of our forefathers and foremothers, even though things have changed: foods are now processed and full of chemicals and we’re not as active as previous generations.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/sfj-fried-chicken.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/sfj-fried-chicken.jpeg\" alt=\"soul food junkies fried chicken\" title=\"soul food junkies fried chicken\" width=\"560\" height=\"372\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-45002\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Fried chicken. Photo: Shawn Escoffery\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hurt’s mother describes the reasons she always prepared box lunches for the family to eat on their annual drives from their home in Long Island to Georgia. Because of Jim Crow laws, Black people could not be sure of finding hotels or restaurants that would serve them during road trips and so routinely brought hearty lunches of fried chicken and sides to keep them satisfied until they reached their destination.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More recent history shows that there has been a movement for healthy food awareness in African American culture for many years. “The best moments of the black freedom struggle, was with organizations like the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Panther_Party\">Black Panthers\u003c/a>,\" comments a food historian. \"They understood the relationship of developing a Black nation and the necessity of developing a healthy diet.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Others interviewed in the film, however, are still very attached to Soul Food (the term was first coined in the '60s) and find creative rationalizations to keep eating it, such as, “Eve was made out of Adam’s rib, so ribs must be good.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/sfj.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/sfj.jpeg\" alt=\"Ribs, cabbage, rice, and potato salad on the side. Photo: Shawn Escoffery\" title=\"Ribs, cabbage, rice, and potato salad on the side. Photo: Shawn Escoffery\" width=\"560\" height=\"372\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-45004\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ribs, cabbage, rice, and potato salad on the side. Photo: Shawn Escoffery\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A poignant scene has Hurt stopping by some tailgating partiers at Mississippi's Jackson State University. The affable group of guys shows Hurt their “Junk Pot”--a huge stock pot filled with corn, pigs ears, pig feet and “everything else that’s not good for you.” With classic Southern hospitality, they invite him to have a sample. Hurt, who has stopped eating pork, doesn’t wish to offend these gentlemen, and so delicately extracts a small cob of corn to taste. This ploy does not escape the partiers who insist he take some meat. Hurt finally does sample a dripping turkey neck and reluctantly admits how delicious it is.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Educating any cultural group about the unhealthiness of treasured comfort food is a challenge because the concept of “comfort” connects us to foods that mom or grandma made and even fed us with her own hands. This primal, sensory gratification exists on an emotional, pre-verbal level, which does not speak the rational language of blood pressure screenings. In 2010, \u003ca href=\"http://saulsdeli.com/deli/referendum-on-the-deli-menu/\">Saul’s Deli in Berkeley\u003c/a> engaged in a similar debate and dialogue regarding nostalgia for “real” deli food (e.g. mile-high pastrami sandwiches) vs. the wisdom of sustainability. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a woman in \u003cstrong>Soul Food Junkies\u003c/strong> put it simply, “It’s comfort food, you eat it and it makes you feel better.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet, in the face of staggering statistics of diabetes, high blood pressure, and certain types of cancer rampant the African American community, food experts in the film comment on the urgent need to increase awareness and make changes now, before it’s too late. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“If you want to wipe out an entire generation of people and engage in a 21st century genocide, all you have to do is to continue doing what we’re doing and deprive people of access to healthy food.”\n\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Food justice, food deserts, lack of access to healthy food and the proliferation of fast food all play a critical role in this discussion. As one food scholar puts it, “In America, there is a class-based apartheid in the food system.” Hurt realizes that traditions, especially those that speak to times of family togetherness and comfort, are resistant to change. Instead of quitting classic soul food dishes cold turkey, some cooks in the film choose to tweak traditional recipes, like making oven-baked, skinless chicken instead of deep-fried. “We have to make it a part of popular culture. We have the power to change and if we don’t, we’ll be sick and die.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/SoulFoodJunkies\">Soul Food Junkies\u003c/a> makes clear that hope for the future rests with the children. One of the last shots in the film is a group of African American elementary school children from \u003ca href=\"http://www.stphilipsacademy.org/\">St. Philips Academy\u003c/a> in Newark, New Jersey. The school’s “family-style lunch program, rooftop garden, teaching kitchen and science lab encourage an understanding of sustainability from seed to table.” We see the children yell happily, “Vegetables are Soul Food!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hurt’s last film, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bhurt.com/beyondBeatsAndRhymes.php\">Hip-Hop: Beyond Beats and Rhymes\u003c/a>, an award-winning documentary, was also selected for Independent Lens. It examines \"masculinity and manhood in rap and hip-hop, where creative genius collides with misogyny, violence and homophobia, exposing the complex intersections of culture and commerce.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/byron-hurt400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/byron-hurt400.jpg\" alt=\"Byron Hurt credit Rebecca Bfresh McDonald\" title=\"Byron Hurt credit Rebecca Bfresh McDonald\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-45014\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem> Filmmaker Byron Hurt. Photo: Rebecca Bfresh McDonald\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>INTERVIEW WITH BYRON HURT\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>BAB briefly interviewed \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/byronhurt\">Byron Hurt\u003c/a> by phone, while he was attending the \u003ca href=\"http://abff.com/festival/\">American Black Film Festival\u003c/a> in Miami where \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/SoulFoodJunkies\">Soul Food Junkies\u003c/a> won Best Documentary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>First you took on hip-hop and now soul food, are you trying to change African American culture?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI’d say I’m trying to make the culture better and stronger and challenge people to think critically about their culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is your goal?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nTo challenge and inform people’s thinking. I‘m trying to create tools that inspire and educate so there can be a transformation and evolution to greater self-awareness. I used myself and my family as examples of what happens when you decide to change your diet and when you don’t. There might be many people out there who have been wanting to change, but need a nudge or some inspiration. Or maybe they want to help a family member or co-worker to change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Isn’t comfort food hard to be rational about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIt is a very hard thing. I may have underestimated how hard it is. I saw with my own eyes that despite all the health challenges, it was still difficult for my father to change the way he ate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What inspired you personally to change your diet?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIt was my sister who set the first example in my family when she changed to a plant-based diet and I saw how healthy she looked. I had started to gain weight in my late 20s and early 30s. I realized that not being involved in athletics anymore [Hurt was a football quarterback in college] I couldn’t continue to eat and eat and eat the same way I had been. So I changed my diet and lost weight and felt better. My mom was more open than my father. She was a nurturer. She changed the way she cooked because she wanted to make us happy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>LOCAL RESPONSE FROM PANEL\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Closer to home, the panel of food activists after the Oakland screening of \u003cstrong>Soul Food Junkies\u003c/strong> said much to stir up the crowd.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/Aekta300.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/Aekta300.jpg\" alt=\"Aekta Shah of I-SEEED\" title=\"Aekta Shah of I-SEEED\" width=\"300\" height=\"352\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-45017\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Aekta Shah of I-SEEED at Harvard. Photo courtesy of Aekta Shah\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Aekta Shah, who works with \u003ca href=\"http://iseeed.org/\">I-SEEED\u003c/a> -- The Institute for Sustainable Economic, Educational, and Environmental Design, described two exciting projects. In 2011, about 30 high school students from Oakland, Richmond and San Leandro hit the streets to check out the statistics from the Alameda County Department of Public Health report that there were about 100 grocery stores in Oakland. First the students had to come up with their own definition of “grocery store.” Does that mean it carries fresh produce? Skim, 1% and 2% milk, instead of just whole milk? A certain ratio of healthy to junk food? Affordable choices? Then they formed teams and walked through stores in their own neighborhoods, documenting what they found, recording audio testimonials, taking photos of the shelves. The students uploaded their data and photos onto a Google-map-like interface and ultimately shared their findings with representatives of Alameda County Public Health Department to begin a dialogue around community-based solutions to these issues of food access. In a related follow up, \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ISEEED\">I-SEEED\u003c/a> is in conversation with \u003ca href=\"http://www.cafreshworks.com/\">California FreshWorks\u003c/a> around partnering to help finance owners of neighborhood liquor stores to transform their stores into grocery stores stocking healthy food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/Bryant-Terry.credit-jennifer-martine-aspx1.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/Bryant-Terry.credit-jennifer-martine-aspx1.jpeg\" alt=\"Eco-chef and author Bryant Terry. Photo: Jennifer Martin\" title=\"Eco-chef and author Bryant Terry. Photo: Jennifer Martin\" width=\"560\" height=\"468\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44994\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Eco-chef and author Bryant Terry. Photo: Jennifer Martin\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eco-chef, food activist and author of several \u003ca href=\"http://www.bryant-terry.com/autho/\">vegan soul food cookbooks\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.bryant-terry.com/\">Bryant Terry\u003c/a> spoke eloquently both as a commenter in Hurt’s film as well as a panelist. The problem, says Terry, is not soul food per se, but the industrialization of our food supply. The industrial food complex spends billions of dollars trying to convince people to eat food that’s the worst for them: highest in fat and sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/bryantterry\">Terry\u003c/a>, who moved to Oakland in 2006 for its natural beauty and calls the Bay Area “my spiritual home,” points out that, “Eating close to the land is not a new invention, African Americas have been green, with aunties and grandmothers who grew their own food for generations. You can still be a “brother of color and eat healthy. You don’t have to be a crunchy-granola, Birkenstock-wearing hippie.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When people say African American cuisine, they think it’s synonymous with Soul Food, the deep-fried fatty meats like fried chicken and sugary desserts like red velvet cake -- which used to be just for holidays and celebrations. I’m not necessarily trying to discard those completely but get people to recognize these are only a part of our food ways. Things have changed over the past 40-50 years. My grandparents had an urban farm. They grew vegetables, fruits and nuts. Any dietician would tell you we should all be eating more fruit and vegetables. Somehow growing food has taken on the meaning of being backward and just country folk. But it is vital to our society.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"We are in a war!,\" declared Terry, \"If people are not aware and do not learn how to grow their own food they will be starving in a few decades. Corporations like Whole Foods are not the answer. What’s important is that people empower themselves to be self-sufficient!\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/44986/film-soul-food-junkies-examines-african-american-cuisine-and-culture","authors":["5283"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_45","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_10547","bayareabites_10544","bayareabites_9094","bayareabites_10546","bayareabites_10548","bayareabites_10549","bayareabites_10551","bayareabites_10552","bayareabites_10545","bayareabites_8636","bayareabites_10550","bayareabites_1871"],"featImg":"bayareabites_44995","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. 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You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. 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