This modern method may be less rural, but it ensures a consistency in the production of Roquefort and consistency is key. Roquefort is an Appellation d'origine contrôlée cheese, meaning the cheese can only be called Roquefort when it is made in a specific region under very exact standards and rules. Any blue that does not come from the Roquefort-sur-Soulzon commune of France can’t be Roquefort.

The mold that makes Roquefort cheese: Penicillium roqueforti.

In addition, Roquefort must be made from the milk used from a sheep within 20 days of a lambing. Lacaune, Manech, or Basco-Bearnaise breeds of sheep are the only ones allowed. The milk must be unpasteurized, and the mold must be sourced from the caves in Roquefort.

If a Roquefort cheese does not meet these standards or others, then it’s just a blue cheese from Roquefort that probably suffers from poor self-esteem.

This isn’t to say that there isn’t some variety from one Roquefort to the next. Some cheesemakers allow their sheep to only eat organic grains during the winter. Papillion brand Roquefort is one example as their sheep munch on only beans and hay and only when there isn't fresh pasture available for grazing. The result is a cheese with a far more buttery flavor and smoother consistency due to higher butterfat.

Roquefort is a cheese that pairs epically well with sweeter dessert wines or fresh walnuts. A classic dessert is to simply serve Roquefort with sticks of celery. Guests can take a knife and mash it into the celery’s nook and nosh happily.

Roquefort is like Satine from Moulin Rouge: seductive, sassy, and possessing plenty of kick. (No tuberculosis, though. No worries.) Being such a salty-mouthed girl Roquefort is happy being stuffed into mushrooms, added to risotto, or even crafted into a Roquefort broth used to cook mussels. Roquefort ice cream and cheesecakes are also worth investigating as the cheese adds an inviting tang.

This mighty cheese can be found at most fine homes of fromage. Rainbow Grocery in San Francisco and The Pasta Shop in Oakland and Berkeley are great places to check out.

Nifty Note: Before penicillin was discovered, many people in France simply rubbed Penicillium roqueforti on their wounds to prevent bacterial infection.

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All About Roquefort Cheese