The patty was well-seasoned and remarkably inoffensive in a way that made me not miss meat. It sent me into a psychological tailspan: how much does the meat really matter in a fast food burger? When I eat a double-double from In-N-Out, how much of my enjoyment comes from the meat itself--a thin, fairly bland patty from a probably unhappy cow--and how much comes from the accessories: the salty, melted cheese; sweetly acidic ketchup; and crunchy vegetables, topped with a piquant secret sauce?

Vegan, gluten-free mac and cheese with tomatoes and green onions. (Shelby Pope)

I also tried the vegan and gluten-free mac and cheese with tomatoes and green onion. Despite its nontraditional ingredients--it’s made from rice noodles and Daiya--the texture was perfect. The chewy noodles held up to the thick cheesy sauce, and the bread crumbs provided a nice textural contrast. But while the texture was great, the taste was less so. It had an unidentifiable, yet distinctly off flavor--ironically, the same kind of fake, slightly sweet taste of Kraft’s blue box.

Dessert was a chocolate milkshake, made with almond and coconut milks, and sweetened with agave. There was none of the chalkiness or graininess of some non-dairy ice creams, but even compared to a dairy-based milkshakes, it holds up. It was spiked with a subtle, welcome coconut flavor and slight nuttiness, and had a depth of flavor and a decadence that my beloved In-N-Out milkshakes--even with their declarations that they’re made from “Real Ice Cream”--lacked.

The afternoon rush at Amy's. (Shelby Pope)

You could argue that this type of fast food isn’t necessarily healthier than the traditional kind. After all, fake cheese and fake ice cream have calories too. You could argue that we shouldn’t be prioritizing fast food at all, and should be instead be focusing on cooking more at home. But no one can argue that Amy’s Drive Thru isn’t a step in the right direction. Americans aren’t going to stop eating their 70 pounds of red meat and 54 pounds of poultry per year--detrimental to both the health of their bodies and environment--because of well-intentioned editorials or PETA’s latest salacious campaign. If they’re going to consume less meat, it’s going to be because it’s cheap and easy to make the switch.

That’s what Amy’s provides. The food is decent, even satisfying, but that’s almost beside the point. It’s affordable, and convenient: a five-minute side trip off the 101 for busy parents and tourists heading to Sonoma and Napa for wine tasting.

The stylish, compostable packaging at Amy's. (Shelby Pope)

That’s how change happens: with small adjustments--stopping by Amy’s one night after soccer practice instead of Taco Bell--and an accessible, scalable concept: all menu items except for salads are less than $6, and the company is already planning to open at least one more drive-thru in the next year or so.

If Americans want healthier fast food options, someone has to prove that it’s a successful concept. And Amy’s, used to defying expectations--in a 2009 interview, the Berliners recalled how they were turned down for a business loan by almost every bank in town because no one believed consumers would buy organic, vegetarian frozen foods--is a good company to do it.

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Eating Vegan and Gluten-Free Fast Food at Amy's Drive Thru in Rohnert Park