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as Racist","publishDate":1596228746,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Trader Joe's, which indicated earlier this month it might change the names of some of its products after an online petition denounced them as racist, now says it will stick with labels like Trader Jose's and Trader Ming's for Mexican and Asian food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We want to be clear: we disagree that any of these labels are racist,\" the popular grocery chain said in a statement posted on its website. It added, \"We do not make decisions based on petitions.\"\u003cbr>\nThe petition posted on change.org by a high school student claims the names create \"a narrative of exoticism that perpetuates harmful stereotypes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_138277' label='More reporting on this:']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other Trader Joe's names cited include Arabian Joe for Middle Eastern food, Trader Giotto's for Italian and Trader Joe San for Japanese cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the petition was launched Trader Joe's issued a statement saying it has been in the process of updating product labels and hoped to conclude that effort soon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"While this approach to product naming may have been rooted in a lighthearted attempt at inclusiveness, we recognize that it may now have the opposite effect — one that is contrary to the welcoming, rewarding customer experience we strive to create every day,\" company spokeswoman Kenya Friend-Daniel said at the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She didn't respond to a message Friday asking what changed the company's mind. But in its recent statement, the grocery chain said it still believes the names, many created decades ago, represent lighthearted efforts at inclusion, adding that its customers say they still like them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Initial word that it would change the names, Trader Joe's said, was based on \"inaccurate reports.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We thought then—and still do—that this naming of products could be fun and show appreciation for other cultures,\" the company said.\u003cbr>\nThe petition, which had more than 5,000 signatures on Friday, also provoked disagreement among some who saw it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Enough is enough,\" one person commented. \"Let's stop stereotyping and perpetuating narratives that are harmful and hurtful.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another responded, \"Pick on something else. The packaging indicates it's authentic to the country the recipe comes from! There are far more important issues to be worked on!\"\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The petition posted on change.org by a high school student claims the names create \"a narrative of exoticism that perpetuates harmful stereotypes.\"","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621633693,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":13,"wordCount":376},"headData":{"title":"Trader Joe's Says No To Changing Label Names Denounced as Racist | KQED","description":"The petition posted on change.org by a high school student claims the names create "a narrative of exoticism that perpetuates harmful stereotypes."","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"138695 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=138695","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/07/31/trader-joes-says-no-to-changing-label-names-denounced-as-racist/","disqusTitle":"Trader Joe's Says No To Changing Label Names Denounced as Racist","nprByline":"John Rogers, Associated Press","path":"/bayareabites/138695/trader-joes-says-no-to-changing-label-names-denounced-as-racist","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Trader Joe's, which indicated earlier this month it might change the names of some of its products after an online petition denounced them as racist, now says it will stick with labels like Trader Jose's and Trader Ming's for Mexican and Asian food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We want to be clear: we disagree that any of these labels are racist,\" the popular grocery chain said in a statement posted on its website. It added, \"We do not make decisions based on petitions.\"\u003cbr>\nThe petition posted on change.org by a high school student claims the names create \"a narrative of exoticism that perpetuates harmful stereotypes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_138277","label":"More reporting on this: "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other Trader Joe's names cited include Arabian Joe for Middle Eastern food, Trader Giotto's for Italian and Trader Joe San for Japanese cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the petition was launched Trader Joe's issued a statement saying it has been in the process of updating product labels and hoped to conclude that effort soon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"While this approach to product naming may have been rooted in a lighthearted attempt at inclusiveness, we recognize that it may now have the opposite effect — one that is contrary to the welcoming, rewarding customer experience we strive to create every day,\" company spokeswoman Kenya Friend-Daniel said at the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She didn't respond to a message Friday asking what changed the company's mind. But in its recent statement, the grocery chain said it still believes the names, many created decades ago, represent lighthearted efforts at inclusion, adding that its customers say they still like them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Initial word that it would change the names, Trader Joe's said, was based on \"inaccurate reports.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We thought then—and still do—that this naming of products could be fun and show appreciation for other cultures,\" the company said.\u003cbr>\nThe petition, which had more than 5,000 signatures on Friday, also provoked disagreement among some who saw it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Enough is enough,\" one person commented. \"Let's stop stereotyping and perpetuating narratives that are harmful and hurtful.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another responded, \"Pick on something else. The packaging indicates it's authentic to the country the recipe comes from! There are far more important issues to be worked on!\"\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/138695/trader-joes-says-no-to-changing-label-names-denounced-as-racist","authors":["byline_bayareabites_138695"],"categories":["bayareabites_17082","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_16882"],"tags":["bayareabites_16909","bayareabites_509","bayareabites_289","bayareabites_11875","bayareabites_16905","bayareabites_1829"],"featImg":"bayareabites_138696","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_128791":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_128791","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"128791","score":null,"sort":[1528387169000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"a-reparations-map-for-farmers-of-color-may-help-right-historical-wrongs","title":"A Reparations Map for Farmers of Color May Help Right Historical Wrongs","publishDate":1528387169,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>In an effort to address centuries of systemic racism, a new online tool seeks to connect Black, brown, and Indigenous farmers with land and resources.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When \u003ca href=\"http://www.soulfirefarm.org/meet-the-farmers/\">Leah Penniman\u003c/a> and her family founded \u003ca href=\"http://www.soulfirefarm.org/\">Soul Fire Farm\u003c/a>, in Petersburg, New York in 2011, they had a vision of a multi-racial, sustainable farming organization that would run food sovereignty programs with the goal of ending racism and injustice in the food system.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To achieve these goals, Soul Fire Farm offers training to Black and brown farmers, activism retreats, food justice education, subsidized food distribution, and, as of February, is leading a movement of Black farmers who are calling for reparations for centuries of slavery, systemic racism, and racial inequity in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If African-American people [had been] paid $20 per week for our agricultural labor rather than being enslaved, we would have trillions in the bank today,” Penniman says. She adds that those numbers don’t include the many other ways Black and brown people have been excluded from the tools that have allowed white people to succeed for centuries, such as \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2015/oct/13/your-credit-score-is-racist-heres-why\">access to credit\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.colorlines.com/articles/study-report-explores-how-institutional-racism-derails-education-black-boys\">education\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/08/24/upshot/how-redlinings-racist-effects-lasted-for-decades.html\">home ownership opportunities\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There is a reason why the typical white household today has 16 times the wealth of a typical Black household,” Penniman says, noting that the gap is “often traceable back to slavery.” According to the \u003ca href=\"https://www.brookings.edu/blog/social-mobility-memos/2015/01/30/wealth-inheritance-and-social-mobility/\">Brookings Institute\u003c/a>, 35 to 45 percent of wealth in the U.S. is inherited rather than self-made and a recent report from the Center for American Progress on \u003ca href=\"https://www.americanprogress.org/issues/race/reports/2018/02/21/447051/systematic-inequality/\">disparities in wealth\u003c/a> between Blacks and whites suggests that long-held, structural racism is the biggest reason for the gap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128796\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1203px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group.jpg\" alt=\"The farm team.\" width=\"1203\" height=\"800\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128796\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group.jpg 1203w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group-1020x678.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group-1200x798.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group-1180x785.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group-960x638.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group-375x249.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1203px) 100vw, 1203px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The farm team. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Soul Fire Farm)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Many organizations and individuals have called for \u003ca href=\"https://abcnews.go.com/2020/story?id=124115&page=1\">reparations\u003c/a>—financial payments made today to help make good on the systemic injustices of the past 400 years—as a way to begin to level the playing field and create equity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Penniman’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?ll=40.604072549190256%2C-79.89249229375002&z=6&mid=1YvB3PuH8jeR_yoFCLvrKOTQQ3p_5NmkK\">online mapping tool\u003c/a> currently includes 52 organizations around the country led by farmers of color who are calling for reparations. The map details farmers in need of land, resources, and funding, and aims to connect them with organizations, foundations, and individual donors to support their work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clicking on one of the participating farms on the map reveals details of its operations, its needs, and how to engage with the people who run it. Penniman is careful to point out that the reparations map is an effort designed to be complementary to, but not a substitute for, the larger national effort for reparations being coordinated by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.blackfoodjustice.org/\">National Black Food and Justice Alliance\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch4>\u003cstrong>The History of Reparations\u003c/strong>\u003c/h4>\n\u003cp>The call for reparations dates back to the federal government’s failure make good on its promise of “40 acres and a mule” to newly freed slaves after the Civil War under General William T. Sherman’s \u003ca href=\"http://ldhi.library.cofc.edu/exhibits/show/after_slavery_educator/unit_three_documents/document_five\">Special Field Order No. 15\u003c/a>, created in January of 1865, and later approved by President Lincoln. By June of the same year, 40,000 freedmen had been settled on 400,000 acres of what was known as Sherman Land in the South.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The money generated from farming that land gave Black families the opportunity to create financial mobility and economic security. By 1920, Black Americans owned \u003ca href=\"https://grist.org/food/what-happened-to-americas-black-farmers/\">925,000 farms\u003c/a>, or 14 percent of the farms in the U.S. at that time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet, the promise didn’t last. Over time, millions of farmers, including 600,000 Blacks, \u003ca href=\"https://www.thenation.com/article/african-americans-have-lost-acres/\">lost their farms\u003c/a>—often because they lacked legal deeds to the land. By 1975, just 45,000 Black-owned farms remained. The 2012 Census of Agriculture estimated that Black farmers now make up \u003ca href=\"http://www.agcensus.usda.gov/Publications/2012/Online_Resources/Highlights/Black_Farmers/Highlights_Black_Farmers.pdf\">less than 2 percent\u003c/a> of the nation’s farmers and 1 percent of rural landowners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Penniman, the promised 40 acres and a mule would be worth $6.4 trillion collectively today. The call for reparations, and efforts like the map, are ways to help make Black farmers and their families whole. Penniman says her group used Google Maps to build the tool because “it’s simple to use and decentralized,” although she says she would love for “a techy person to take this over at some point and make the platform more sophisticated.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The process is simple: Farmers file an application and Soul Fire adds their information to the map. From there the farmer can go into the map and make changes and add information on his or her own farm or needs. “We found that the mapping was more visually engaging compared to using a spreadsheet. Everyone can edit their own pin on the map without a gatekeeper,” Penniman says of the farmers who apply to be a part of the project. To date, more than 53,000 people have visited the map.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch4>\u003cstrong>The Birth of the Reparations Map\u003c/strong>\u003c/h4>\n\u003cp>The original idea to take on reparations came out of a conversation Penniman had with Viviana Moreno, a farmer from Chicago, at Soul Fire Farm’s Black and Latinx Farmers Immersion (BLFI) program. “We were all talking about two farms, Harmony Homestead and Wildseed, as examples of reparations and restoration, and she said we need more of this type of people-to-people giving,” Penniman says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The realities of being Black, Indigenous, and brown people in the United States means many of us have little to no access to land, [or] many of the resources needed to run a small vegetable farm sustainably,” Moreno says. “As we were discussing this, I asked Penniman ‘Why, if there are so many of us, don’t we create a sort of database that would feature all of our collective needs and projects?’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Penniman liked the idea, and she gathered with a group of Black and brown farmers to create the map over the next few months. As soon as it was up, the group sent invitations to all the farmer-alumni from the BLFI program, as well as to other Black, Indigenous, and brown farmers, asking them to add their projects to the map.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The farms and projects currently listed on the map are broadly diverse: Farmers identify as Black, Indigenous, Latinx, and multi-racial, hail from large cities and rural communities, and are seeking help getting started or expanding their work to reach more farmers and eaters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Moreno’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?ll=41.86956080000001%2C-88.16528319999998&z=18&mid=1YvB3PuH8jeR_yoFCLvrKOTQQ3p_5NmkK\">Catatumbo Cooperative Farm\u003c/a> is now listed on the reparations map, seeking funds to start farming land in rural Illinois. Moreno and her partners, Jazmin Martinez and Nadia Sol Ireri Unzueta Carrasco, are all queer, immigrant worker-owners. Their long-term goal is to acquire land in rural Illinois while maintaining a connection to communities in Chicago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eduardo Rivera is another farmer that signed on to the reparations map. Currently leasing land outside of Minneapolis for \u003ca href=\"https://sinfronterasfarm.com/our-farm/\">Sin Fronteras Farm\u003c/a>, he hopes to use the map to help him buy land or secure a much longer-term lease than his current leased lands. “I signed on after I saw what Soul Fire was doing and was hoping that it will help me acquire the land I need,” Rivera says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Being organic gives you more opportunities and access,” he says. “My plans are to grow organic year-round, but I can’t do that on leased land—I think the cost is prohibitive.” Rivera hopes to expand his operations to grow more foods for the Latinx/Mexicanx community and also create an incubator for other indigenous farmers and farmers of color. While it is still too soon to know if the mapping project will get him the land he needs, he says it has gotten him noticed, and he is hopeful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128795\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras.jpg\" alt=\"Eduardo Rivera in the fields at Sin Fronteras Farm and Food.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128795\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eduardo Rivera in the fields at Sin Fronteras Farm and Food. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Sin Fronteras)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to Penniman, there were other projects that informed and inspired them in creating the reparations map. \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncagr.gov/SmallFarms/PigfordIISettlementdocx031011.pdf\">Pigford v. Glickman\u003c/a>, the famous 1990s lawsuit from Black farmers who sued the USDA for racial bias in its lending practices, was the largest civil rights settlement in U.S. history, and it still was not enough to stem the tide of Black land loss, according to Penniman. But she adds that they cannot rely on organizing around policy alone. “We need to rely on reaching out, and touching hearts, and catalyzing action in our communities.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soul Fire Farms trains farmers to become advocates for reparations. “Someone has to be doing the right storytelling and facing the foundations,” she says. They are calling upon funders to be partners in helping to make Black and brown farmers whole. “It’s not just about money. It’s about power and control. It should be the people who are directly affected who have that power and that control, not those who inherited extracted wealth,” Penniman says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Penniman has a list of specific actions for foundations and other donors who want to help end racism in the food system as part of her upcoming book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.soulfirefarm.org/media/farming-while-black/\">Farming While Black: Soul Fire Farm’s Definitive Guide to Liberation on Land\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. “Some of the things foundations can do are to have more geographic, class, and racial equity, prioritizing funding for the Deep South and underfunded regions, as well as, streamline the reporting and applications process,” she says. “They need to transform the expectations and relationships tied to their funding to support the organizers on the frontlines.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Being a part of the project also helps us to start a discussion about issues around land justice, reparations, solidarity economies, and much more,” says Moreno. She adds that it is important because their work is not independent of other issues our communities face. “We definitely want to receive tangible resources, yet we are also looking to engage in conversations where we creatively think about what distribution of resources and wealth means and how to center the needs of historically oppressed communities.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Penniman says that both systemic and policy change are important. “Some policies that we should all advocate for [include] passing \u003ca href=\"https://www.congress.gov/bill/115th-congress/house-bill/40\">H.R. 40\u003c/a>,” Rep. John Conyers’ \u003ca href=\"https://www.motherjones.com/crime-justice/2017/09/in-some-parallel-universe-congress-is-debating-how-america-could-atone-for-slavery-1/\">long-introduced but never-discussed proposal\u003c/a> for a commission to study and develop proposals for reparations to African-Americans. Penniman says the bill could lead to such restorative solutions as a guaranteed minimum or \u003ca href=\"https://www.weforum.org/agenda/2017/01/why-we-should-all-have-a-basic-income/\">universal basic income\u003c/a> to cover all basic needs and free and universal education for pre-K through university.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the reparations movement in the U.S. gets the most attention, Penniman points out that it isn’t the only place that is dealing with issues of land and money stolen from farmers of color. “I think there’s a lot of groups within \u003ca href=\"https://viacampesina.org/en/\">Via Campesina\u003c/a>, the international peasant movement, that have called for reparations as well,” she says. “Our work here is echoing that larger global movement in calling for the return of stolen land and resources.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This article was originally published on\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2018/06/04/a-reparations-map-for-farmers-may-help-right-historical-wrongs/\">\u003cem>Civil Eats\u003c/em>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"In an effort to address centuries of systemic racism, a new online tool seeks to connect Black, brown, and Indigenous farmers with land and resources.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1528495610,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":29,"wordCount":1892},"headData":{"title":"A Reparations Map for Farmers of Color May Help Right Historical Wrongs | KQED","description":"In an effort to address centuries of systemic racism, a new online tool seeks to connect Black, brown, and Indigenous farmers with land and resources.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"128791 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=128791","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/06/07/a-reparations-map-for-farmers-of-color-may-help-right-historical-wrongs/","disqusTitle":"A Reparations Map for Farmers of Color May Help Right Historical Wrongs","source":"Politics, Activism, Food Safety","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/politics-activism-food-safety/","nprByline":"\u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/author/acollier/\">Andrea King Collier\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/civileat\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>","path":"/bayareabites/128791/a-reparations-map-for-farmers-of-color-may-help-right-historical-wrongs","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>In an effort to address centuries of systemic racism, a new online tool seeks to connect Black, brown, and Indigenous farmers with land and resources.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When \u003ca href=\"http://www.soulfirefarm.org/meet-the-farmers/\">Leah Penniman\u003c/a> and her family founded \u003ca href=\"http://www.soulfirefarm.org/\">Soul Fire Farm\u003c/a>, in Petersburg, New York in 2011, they had a vision of a multi-racial, sustainable farming organization that would run food sovereignty programs with the goal of ending racism and injustice in the food system.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To achieve these goals, Soul Fire Farm offers training to Black and brown farmers, activism retreats, food justice education, subsidized food distribution, and, as of February, is leading a movement of Black farmers who are calling for reparations for centuries of slavery, systemic racism, and racial inequity in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If African-American people [had been] paid $20 per week for our agricultural labor rather than being enslaved, we would have trillions in the bank today,” Penniman says. She adds that those numbers don’t include the many other ways Black and brown people have been excluded from the tools that have allowed white people to succeed for centuries, such as \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2015/oct/13/your-credit-score-is-racist-heres-why\">access to credit\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.colorlines.com/articles/study-report-explores-how-institutional-racism-derails-education-black-boys\">education\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/08/24/upshot/how-redlinings-racist-effects-lasted-for-decades.html\">home ownership opportunities\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There is a reason why the typical white household today has 16 times the wealth of a typical Black household,” Penniman says, noting that the gap is “often traceable back to slavery.” According to the \u003ca href=\"https://www.brookings.edu/blog/social-mobility-memos/2015/01/30/wealth-inheritance-and-social-mobility/\">Brookings Institute\u003c/a>, 35 to 45 percent of wealth in the U.S. is inherited rather than self-made and a recent report from the Center for American Progress on \u003ca href=\"https://www.americanprogress.org/issues/race/reports/2018/02/21/447051/systematic-inequality/\">disparities in wealth\u003c/a> between Blacks and whites suggests that long-held, structural racism is the biggest reason for the gap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128796\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1203px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group.jpg\" alt=\"The farm team.\" width=\"1203\" height=\"800\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128796\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group.jpg 1203w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group-1020x678.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group-1200x798.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group-1180x785.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group-960x638.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group-375x249.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-soul-fire-group-520x346.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1203px) 100vw, 1203px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The farm team. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Soul Fire Farm)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Many organizations and individuals have called for \u003ca href=\"https://abcnews.go.com/2020/story?id=124115&page=1\">reparations\u003c/a>—financial payments made today to help make good on the systemic injustices of the past 400 years—as a way to begin to level the playing field and create equity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Penniman’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?ll=40.604072549190256%2C-79.89249229375002&z=6&mid=1YvB3PuH8jeR_yoFCLvrKOTQQ3p_5NmkK\">online mapping tool\u003c/a> currently includes 52 organizations around the country led by farmers of color who are calling for reparations. The map details farmers in need of land, resources, and funding, and aims to connect them with organizations, foundations, and individual donors to support their work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clicking on one of the participating farms on the map reveals details of its operations, its needs, and how to engage with the people who run it. Penniman is careful to point out that the reparations map is an effort designed to be complementary to, but not a substitute for, the larger national effort for reparations being coordinated by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.blackfoodjustice.org/\">National Black Food and Justice Alliance\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch4>\u003cstrong>The History of Reparations\u003c/strong>\u003c/h4>\n\u003cp>The call for reparations dates back to the federal government’s failure make good on its promise of “40 acres and a mule” to newly freed slaves after the Civil War under General William T. Sherman’s \u003ca href=\"http://ldhi.library.cofc.edu/exhibits/show/after_slavery_educator/unit_three_documents/document_five\">Special Field Order No. 15\u003c/a>, created in January of 1865, and later approved by President Lincoln. By June of the same year, 40,000 freedmen had been settled on 400,000 acres of what was known as Sherman Land in the South.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The money generated from farming that land gave Black families the opportunity to create financial mobility and economic security. By 1920, Black Americans owned \u003ca href=\"https://grist.org/food/what-happened-to-americas-black-farmers/\">925,000 farms\u003c/a>, or 14 percent of the farms in the U.S. at that time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet, the promise didn’t last. Over time, millions of farmers, including 600,000 Blacks, \u003ca href=\"https://www.thenation.com/article/african-americans-have-lost-acres/\">lost their farms\u003c/a>—often because they lacked legal deeds to the land. By 1975, just 45,000 Black-owned farms remained. The 2012 Census of Agriculture estimated that Black farmers now make up \u003ca href=\"http://www.agcensus.usda.gov/Publications/2012/Online_Resources/Highlights/Black_Farmers/Highlights_Black_Farmers.pdf\">less than 2 percent\u003c/a> of the nation’s farmers and 1 percent of rural landowners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Penniman, the promised 40 acres and a mule would be worth $6.4 trillion collectively today. The call for reparations, and efforts like the map, are ways to help make Black farmers and their families whole. Penniman says her group used Google Maps to build the tool because “it’s simple to use and decentralized,” although she says she would love for “a techy person to take this over at some point and make the platform more sophisticated.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The process is simple: Farmers file an application and Soul Fire adds their information to the map. From there the farmer can go into the map and make changes and add information on his or her own farm or needs. “We found that the mapping was more visually engaging compared to using a spreadsheet. Everyone can edit their own pin on the map without a gatekeeper,” Penniman says of the farmers who apply to be a part of the project. To date, more than 53,000 people have visited the map.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch4>\u003cstrong>The Birth of the Reparations Map\u003c/strong>\u003c/h4>\n\u003cp>The original idea to take on reparations came out of a conversation Penniman had with Viviana Moreno, a farmer from Chicago, at Soul Fire Farm’s Black and Latinx Farmers Immersion (BLFI) program. “We were all talking about two farms, Harmony Homestead and Wildseed, as examples of reparations and restoration, and she said we need more of this type of people-to-people giving,” Penniman says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The realities of being Black, Indigenous, and brown people in the United States means many of us have little to no access to land, [or] many of the resources needed to run a small vegetable farm sustainably,” Moreno says. “As we were discussing this, I asked Penniman ‘Why, if there are so many of us, don’t we create a sort of database that would feature all of our collective needs and projects?’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Penniman liked the idea, and she gathered with a group of Black and brown farmers to create the map over the next few months. As soon as it was up, the group sent invitations to all the farmer-alumni from the BLFI program, as well as to other Black, Indigenous, and brown farmers, asking them to add their projects to the map.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The farms and projects currently listed on the map are broadly diverse: Farmers identify as Black, Indigenous, Latinx, and multi-racial, hail from large cities and rural communities, and are seeking help getting started or expanding their work to reach more farmers and eaters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Moreno’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?ll=41.86956080000001%2C-88.16528319999998&z=18&mid=1YvB3PuH8jeR_yoFCLvrKOTQQ3p_5NmkK\">Catatumbo Cooperative Farm\u003c/a> is now listed on the reparations map, seeking funds to start farming land in rural Illinois. Moreno and her partners, Jazmin Martinez and Nadia Sol Ireri Unzueta Carrasco, are all queer, immigrant worker-owners. Their long-term goal is to acquire land in rural Illinois while maintaining a connection to communities in Chicago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eduardo Rivera is another farmer that signed on to the reparations map. Currently leasing land outside of Minneapolis for \u003ca href=\"https://sinfronterasfarm.com/our-farm/\">Sin Fronteras Farm\u003c/a>, he hopes to use the map to help him buy land or secure a much longer-term lease than his current leased lands. “I signed on after I saw what Soul Fire was doing and was hoping that it will help me acquire the land I need,” Rivera says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Being organic gives you more opportunities and access,” he says. “My plans are to grow organic year-round, but I can’t do that on leased land—I think the cost is prohibitive.” Rivera hopes to expand his operations to grow more foods for the Latinx/Mexicanx community and also create an incubator for other indigenous farmers and farmers of color. While it is still too soon to know if the mapping project will get him the land he needs, he says it has gotten him noticed, and he is hopeful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_128795\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras.jpg\" alt=\"Eduardo Rivera in the fields at Sin Fronteras Farm and Food.\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" class=\"size-full wp-image-128795\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/06/180604-farm-reparations-sin-fronteras-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eduardo Rivera in the fields at Sin Fronteras Farm and Food. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Sin Fronteras)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to Penniman, there were other projects that informed and inspired them in creating the reparations map. \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncagr.gov/SmallFarms/PigfordIISettlementdocx031011.pdf\">Pigford v. Glickman\u003c/a>, the famous 1990s lawsuit from Black farmers who sued the USDA for racial bias in its lending practices, was the largest civil rights settlement in U.S. history, and it still was not enough to stem the tide of Black land loss, according to Penniman. But she adds that they cannot rely on organizing around policy alone. “We need to rely on reaching out, and touching hearts, and catalyzing action in our communities.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soul Fire Farms trains farmers to become advocates for reparations. “Someone has to be doing the right storytelling and facing the foundations,” she says. They are calling upon funders to be partners in helping to make Black and brown farmers whole. “It’s not just about money. It’s about power and control. It should be the people who are directly affected who have that power and that control, not those who inherited extracted wealth,” Penniman says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Penniman has a list of specific actions for foundations and other donors who want to help end racism in the food system as part of her upcoming book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.soulfirefarm.org/media/farming-while-black/\">Farming While Black: Soul Fire Farm’s Definitive Guide to Liberation on Land\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. “Some of the things foundations can do are to have more geographic, class, and racial equity, prioritizing funding for the Deep South and underfunded regions, as well as, streamline the reporting and applications process,” she says. “They need to transform the expectations and relationships tied to their funding to support the organizers on the frontlines.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Being a part of the project also helps us to start a discussion about issues around land justice, reparations, solidarity economies, and much more,” says Moreno. She adds that it is important because their work is not independent of other issues our communities face. “We definitely want to receive tangible resources, yet we are also looking to engage in conversations where we creatively think about what distribution of resources and wealth means and how to center the needs of historically oppressed communities.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Penniman says that both systemic and policy change are important. “Some policies that we should all advocate for [include] passing \u003ca href=\"https://www.congress.gov/bill/115th-congress/house-bill/40\">H.R. 40\u003c/a>,” Rep. John Conyers’ \u003ca href=\"https://www.motherjones.com/crime-justice/2017/09/in-some-parallel-universe-congress-is-debating-how-america-could-atone-for-slavery-1/\">long-introduced but never-discussed proposal\u003c/a> for a commission to study and develop proposals for reparations to African-Americans. Penniman says the bill could lead to such restorative solutions as a guaranteed minimum or \u003ca href=\"https://www.weforum.org/agenda/2017/01/why-we-should-all-have-a-basic-income/\">universal basic income\u003c/a> to cover all basic needs and free and universal education for pre-K through university.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the reparations movement in the U.S. gets the most attention, Penniman points out that it isn’t the only place that is dealing with issues of land and money stolen from farmers of color. “I think there’s a lot of groups within \u003ca href=\"https://viacampesina.org/en/\">Via Campesina\u003c/a>, the international peasant movement, that have called for reparations as well,” she says. “Our work here is echoing that larger global movement in calling for the return of stolen land and resources.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This article was originally published on\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2018/06/04/a-reparations-map-for-farmers-may-help-right-historical-wrongs/\">\u003cem>Civil Eats\u003c/em>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/128791/a-reparations-map-for-farmers-of-color-may-help-right-historical-wrongs","authors":["byline_bayareabites_128791"],"categories":["bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_11875","bayareabites_16178"],"featImg":"bayareabites_128797","label":"source_bayareabites_128791"},"bayareabites_126926":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_126926","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"126926","score":null,"sort":[1524011338000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"starbucks-closing-8000-stores-for-an-afternoon-for-racial-bias-education","title":"Starbucks Closing 8,000 Stores For An Afternoon, For Racial-Bias Education","publishDate":1524011338,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Updated at 4:50 p.m. ET\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starbucks is closing thousands of stores across the U.S. on the afternoon of May 29 to conduct \"racial-bias education geared toward preventing discrimination in our stores,\" the company said in a \u003ca href=\"https://news.starbucks.com/press-releases/starbucks-to-close-stores-nationwide-for-racial-bias-education-may-29\">statement\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The coffee shop chain has been criticized and protested against after two black men were arrested last week at a Starbucks in Philadelphia, where they were quietly waiting to meet someone. Starbucks employees called 911 after one of the men, who had not yet purchased anything, asked to use the bathroom and then remained at the shop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other customers \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2018/04/14/602556973/starbucks-police-and-mayor-weigh-in-on-controversial-arrest-of-2-black-men-in-ph\">recorded the arrest\u003c/a> and protested that the men hadn't done anything wrong. They pointed out that white customers were allowed to sit without buying anything without being handcuffed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starbucks has apologized for the incident; CEO Kevin Johnson said his goal is to do \"whatever we can to make things right\" and promised \"any necessary changes to our practices that would help prevent such an occurrence from ever happening again.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Monday, Johnson \u003ca href=\"https://www.nbcnews.com/news/us-news/two-black-men-arrested-philadelphia-starbucks-meet-ceo-n866291\">met with the two men who were arrested\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I've spent the last few days in Philadelphia with my leadership team listening to the community, learning what we did wrong and the steps we need to take to fix it,\" Johnson said in the company statement on Tuesday. \"While this is not limited to Starbucks, we're committed to being a part of the solution. Closing our stores for racial-bias training is just one step in a journey that requires dedication from every level of our company and partnerships in our local communities.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Howard Schultz, Starbucks' executive chairman and former CEO, who guided the company's explosive growth, added, \"The company's founding values are based on humanity and inclusion. We will learn from our mistakes and reaffirm our commitment to creating a safe and welcoming environment for every customer.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>NPR's Gene Demby, a Philadelphia native who hosts the \u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> podcast, explains that \"out-of-place policing,\" when \"police engage with people who don't look like they belong there,\" is \"usually just racial profiling masquerading as spatial profiling.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He said it can be hard to separate where exactly the racial bias lies in this arrest — with an employee, with Starbucks or with the police.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I actually called up Phillip Atiba Goff, who is the president of the Center for Policing Equity,\" Gene says. \"And he said that it's really hard to partition police bias from public bias because black men are so broadly perceived as threats, and that perception is treated as reasonable by the police. ... If you think a black person is violent or dangerous or out of place, he says that your bias will have all the structural support. The police will defer to your suspicions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And there's no consequences for anyone's biases here ... not the Starbucks employee, not the police officers. The only consequences fall on the two men who are arrested and spent hours behind bars.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gene notes that it's not clear whether Starbucks has a consistent policy about the use of bathrooms by people who haven't purchased anything. \"The Starbucks official policy, whether it exists or not, is sort of immaterial to this conversation in a lot of ways,\" he says. \"And it is because these questions become questions of discretion of individual people, that's where bias can creep in.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The closure and the training will affect more than 8,000 company-owned stores; licensed stores, such as those inside Target stores or other larger businesses, will get access to the training materials after it is over, Starbucks says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The company continues:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"The curriculum will be developed with guidance from several national and local experts confronting racial bias, including Bryan Stevenson, founder and executive director of the Equal Justice Initiative; Sherrilyn Ifill, president and director-counsel of the NAACP Legal Defense and Education Fund; Heather McGhee, president of [liberal think tank] Demos; former U.S. Attorney General Eric Holder; and Jonathan Greenblatt, CEO of the Anti-Defamation League.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Rosalind Brewer, the COO of Starbucks, spoke with NPR on Monday. She said watching the video of the arrest was painful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"As an African-American executive myself with a 23-year-old African-American son, it was very difficult to watch. The police should not have been called in this situation. And this is a teachable moment for all of us. And we take full responsibility to make sure that our company remains great,\" she said. \"Unconscious-bias training is critical and top of our list.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few years ago, the comedian W. Kamau Bell, who is black, was talking to his wife, who is white, at the Elmwood Cafe in Oakland, Calif. An employee tried to get him to leave, saying she thought he was trying to sell something. Bell described the incident in a \u003ca href=\"http://www.wkamaubell.com/blog/2015/01/happy-birthday-have-some-racism-from-elmwood-cafe\">blog post\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.thisamericanlife.org/557/birds-bees/act-two\">an episode of This American Life\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the aftermath of the Starbucks arrests, Bell emphasized that the situation in the coffee shop was not unique. \"Every day black people find themselves in simple situations where suddenly out of nowhere, we are treated like criminals,\" he wrote in \u003ca href=\"https://www.cnn.com/2018/04/16/opinions/philadelphia-starbucks-sounds-familiar-to-me-w-kamau-bell-opinion/index.html\">an essay published by CNN\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bell urged Starbucks not to fire the employees in question but to focus on training — and carry that commitment forward, instead of returning to business as usual after the headlines die down. Bell wrote on CNN:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"This isn't just about a couple of rogue baristas ignoring the employee manual. I'm sure the Starbucks manual says, \"DON'T BE RACIST/SEXIST/ABLEIST/TRANSPHOBIC/HOMOPHOBIC/JERKHOLE-IC!\" all over it. It has to. Starbucks is a major corporation. But I'm guessing the manual doesn't tell its employees how not to be racist/sexist/ableist/transphobic/homophobic/jerkhole-ic. This is key. I remember how the owner of The Elmwood Cafe told me that he didn't train his employees to be racist. But he didn't have to train [them] to be racist for them to act in racist ways. You have to un-train people. Racism is baked into America's cake. It is the flour, the white, bleached flour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So if Starbucks wants to truly make a difference, then they need to not just commit to ending discrimination in their coffee shops, they need to commit to being advocates for ending discrimination in America. If they can get us all to pay five bucks for coffee, this should be no big deal.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Last week, two black men were arrested at a Starbucks in Philadelphia, where they were quietly waiting to meet someone. Starbucks has apologized and has now announced a training on May 29.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1524078363,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":1092},"headData":{"title":"Starbucks Closing 8,000 Stores For An Afternoon, For Racial-Bias Education | KQED","description":"Last week, two black men were arrested at a Starbucks in Philadelphia, where they were quietly waiting to meet someone. Starbucks has apologized and has now announced a training on May 29.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"126926 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=126926","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/04/17/starbucks-closing-8000-stores-for-an-afternoon-for-racial-bias-education/","disqusTitle":"Starbucks Closing 8,000 Stores For An Afternoon, For Racial-Bias Education","source":"Politics, Activism, Food Safety","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/politics-activism-food-safety/","nprImageCredit":"Mark Makela","nprByline":"Camila Domonoske, the two-way, NPR Food","nprImageAgency":"Getty Images","nprStoryId":"603282753","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=603282753&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2018/04/17/603282753/starbucks-closing-8-000-stores-for-an-afternoon-for-racial-bias-education?ft=nprml&f=603282753","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 17 Apr 2018 19:37:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 17 Apr 2018 15:55:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 17 Apr 2018 19:37:00 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/126926/starbucks-closing-8000-stores-for-an-afternoon-for-racial-bias-education","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Updated at 4:50 p.m. ET\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starbucks is closing thousands of stores across the U.S. on the afternoon of May 29 to conduct \"racial-bias education geared toward preventing discrimination in our stores,\" the company said in a \u003ca href=\"https://news.starbucks.com/press-releases/starbucks-to-close-stores-nationwide-for-racial-bias-education-may-29\">statement\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The coffee shop chain has been criticized and protested against after two black men were arrested last week at a Starbucks in Philadelphia, where they were quietly waiting to meet someone. Starbucks employees called 911 after one of the men, who had not yet purchased anything, asked to use the bathroom and then remained at the shop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other customers \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2018/04/14/602556973/starbucks-police-and-mayor-weigh-in-on-controversial-arrest-of-2-black-men-in-ph\">recorded the arrest\u003c/a> and protested that the men hadn't done anything wrong. They pointed out that white customers were allowed to sit without buying anything without being handcuffed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starbucks has apologized for the incident; CEO Kevin Johnson said his goal is to do \"whatever we can to make things right\" and promised \"any necessary changes to our practices that would help prevent such an occurrence from ever happening again.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Monday, Johnson \u003ca href=\"https://www.nbcnews.com/news/us-news/two-black-men-arrested-philadelphia-starbucks-meet-ceo-n866291\">met with the two men who were arrested\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I've spent the last few days in Philadelphia with my leadership team listening to the community, learning what we did wrong and the steps we need to take to fix it,\" Johnson said in the company statement on Tuesday. \"While this is not limited to Starbucks, we're committed to being a part of the solution. Closing our stores for racial-bias training is just one step in a journey that requires dedication from every level of our company and partnerships in our local communities.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Howard Schultz, Starbucks' executive chairman and former CEO, who guided the company's explosive growth, added, \"The company's founding values are based on humanity and inclusion. We will learn from our mistakes and reaffirm our commitment to creating a safe and welcoming environment for every customer.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>NPR's Gene Demby, a Philadelphia native who hosts the \u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> podcast, explains that \"out-of-place policing,\" when \"police engage with people who don't look like they belong there,\" is \"usually just racial profiling masquerading as spatial profiling.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He said it can be hard to separate where exactly the racial bias lies in this arrest — with an employee, with Starbucks or with the police.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I actually called up Phillip Atiba Goff, who is the president of the Center for Policing Equity,\" Gene says. \"And he said that it's really hard to partition police bias from public bias because black men are so broadly perceived as threats, and that perception is treated as reasonable by the police. ... If you think a black person is violent or dangerous or out of place, he says that your bias will have all the structural support. The police will defer to your suspicions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And there's no consequences for anyone's biases here ... not the Starbucks employee, not the police officers. The only consequences fall on the two men who are arrested and spent hours behind bars.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gene notes that it's not clear whether Starbucks has a consistent policy about the use of bathrooms by people who haven't purchased anything. \"The Starbucks official policy, whether it exists or not, is sort of immaterial to this conversation in a lot of ways,\" he says. \"And it is because these questions become questions of discretion of individual people, that's where bias can creep in.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The closure and the training will affect more than 8,000 company-owned stores; licensed stores, such as those inside Target stores or other larger businesses, will get access to the training materials after it is over, Starbucks says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The company continues:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"The curriculum will be developed with guidance from several national and local experts confronting racial bias, including Bryan Stevenson, founder and executive director of the Equal Justice Initiative; Sherrilyn Ifill, president and director-counsel of the NAACP Legal Defense and Education Fund; Heather McGhee, president of [liberal think tank] Demos; former U.S. Attorney General Eric Holder; and Jonathan Greenblatt, CEO of the Anti-Defamation League.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Rosalind Brewer, the COO of Starbucks, spoke with NPR on Monday. She said watching the video of the arrest was painful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"As an African-American executive myself with a 23-year-old African-American son, it was very difficult to watch. The police should not have been called in this situation. And this is a teachable moment for all of us. And we take full responsibility to make sure that our company remains great,\" she said. \"Unconscious-bias training is critical and top of our list.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few years ago, the comedian W. Kamau Bell, who is black, was talking to his wife, who is white, at the Elmwood Cafe in Oakland, Calif. An employee tried to get him to leave, saying she thought he was trying to sell something. Bell described the incident in a \u003ca href=\"http://www.wkamaubell.com/blog/2015/01/happy-birthday-have-some-racism-from-elmwood-cafe\">blog post\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.thisamericanlife.org/557/birds-bees/act-two\">an episode of This American Life\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the aftermath of the Starbucks arrests, Bell emphasized that the situation in the coffee shop was not unique. \"Every day black people find themselves in simple situations where suddenly out of nowhere, we are treated like criminals,\" he wrote in \u003ca href=\"https://www.cnn.com/2018/04/16/opinions/philadelphia-starbucks-sounds-familiar-to-me-w-kamau-bell-opinion/index.html\">an essay published by CNN\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bell urged Starbucks not to fire the employees in question but to focus on training — and carry that commitment forward, instead of returning to business as usual after the headlines die down. Bell wrote on CNN:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"This isn't just about a couple of rogue baristas ignoring the employee manual. I'm sure the Starbucks manual says, \"DON'T BE RACIST/SEXIST/ABLEIST/TRANSPHOBIC/HOMOPHOBIC/JERKHOLE-IC!\" all over it. It has to. Starbucks is a major corporation. But I'm guessing the manual doesn't tell its employees how not to be racist/sexist/ableist/transphobic/homophobic/jerkhole-ic. This is key. I remember how the owner of The Elmwood Cafe told me that he didn't train his employees to be racist. But he didn't have to train [them] to be racist for them to act in racist ways. You have to un-train people. Racism is baked into America's cake. It is the flour, the white, bleached flour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So if Starbucks wants to truly make a difference, then they need to not just commit to ending discrimination in their coffee shops, they need to commit to being advocates for ending discrimination in America. If they can get us all to pay five bucks for coffee, this should be no big deal.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/126926/starbucks-closing-8000-stores-for-an-afternoon-for-racial-bias-education","authors":["byline_bayareabites_126926"],"categories":["bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_16107","bayareabites_16108","bayareabites_11875","bayareabites_780"],"featImg":"bayareabites_126927","label":"source_bayareabites_126926"},"bayareabites_125392":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_125392","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"125392","score":null,"sort":[1520092031000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"food-stall-serves-up-a-social-experiment-charge-white-customers-more-than-minorities","title":"Food Stall Serves Up A Social Experiment: Charge White Customers More Than Minorities","publishDate":1520092031,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>Can a $12 lunch change the way people think about racial wealth disparity in America? How about a $30 lunch? That's the premise behind a social experiment playing out in a New Orleans food stall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Tunde Way opened his pop-up stall in the city's Roux Carre venue in early February. The listed price for the Nigerian food is $12. But when a white person walks up to order, they are asked to pay $30. Why? \"It's two-and-a half times more than the $12 meal, which reflects the income disparity\" between whites and African-Americans in New Orleans, says Wey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The median income for African-American households in New Orleans fell from $32,332 in 2000 to $27,812 in 2013 in inflation-adjusted dollars, according to The Data Center's \u003ca href=\"https://s3.amazonaws.com/gnocdc/reports/TheDataCenter_TheNewOrleansIndexatTen.pdf\">New Orleans Index at Ten\u003c/a>. Over the same time, median income for white households in the city remained roughly the same, $61,117 to $60,070. In 2013, the median household income for African-Americans in metro New Orleans was 54 percent lower than for whites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125394\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1980px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2.jpg\" alt=\"The menu outside of Saartj.\" width=\"1980\" height=\"1485\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125394\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2.jpg 1980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1980px) 100vw, 1980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu outside of Saartj. \u003ccite>(Deji Osinulu)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Wey says when white customers come up to his window to place an order, he tells them about this racial income gap and then asks if they want to pay the higher $30 price. They also have the option to pay the listed $12 price. The difference between the $12 and $30 meals, customers are informed, will be redistributed to minorities who buy food at the stall. How do white customers react to the proposition?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some of them are enthusiastic, some of them are bamboozled a bit by it,\" Wey says. \"But the majority of white folks, nearly 80 percent, decided to pay.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That was definitely higher than we expected,\" says Anjali Prasertong, a graduate student in public health at Tulane University who helped Wey design the experiment and collect data.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Customers who agree to buy lunch were asked to fill out a brief survey online. A subset of these diners were also pulled aside and interviewed about how income and wealth disparity has played out in their own lives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prasertong points to one anecdote from an African-American customer whom she interviewed. \"I asked her, 'If you had been given access to more resources while you were growing up, would that have changed your life in any way?'\" Prasertong recalls. \"She immediately had an example.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The woman told Prasertong that when she was a college student, she was offered an unpaid summer White House internship in Washington, D.C. But that meant she would have had to find a way to support herself in another city instead of spending the summer earning money that she could use to help pay for school in the fall. The woman passed on the internship, Prasertong says, because \"she realized, 'Oh, it's just for rich people'\" – meaning students whose parents could afford to subsidize them while they worked for free. \"She still went on to be successful but if she'd done that internship, who knows what she'd be doing?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125395\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-portrait_custom-a8cf33a3fdd8bc37e01b788a763ed3eb9ccd9f86.jpg\" alt=\"Nigerian chef and writer Tunde Wey conceived his food stall experiment as a way to get people thinking about the racial income and wealth gaps in America and how it affects their own lives.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1394\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125395\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-portrait_custom-a8cf33a3fdd8bc37e01b788a763ed3eb9ccd9f86.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-portrait_custom-a8cf33a3fdd8bc37e01b788a763ed3eb9ccd9f86-160x223.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-portrait_custom-a8cf33a3fdd8bc37e01b788a763ed3eb9ccd9f86-800x1115.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-portrait_custom-a8cf33a3fdd8bc37e01b788a763ed3eb9ccd9f86-768x1071.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-portrait_custom-a8cf33a3fdd8bc37e01b788a763ed3eb9ccd9f86-960x1338.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-portrait_custom-a8cf33a3fdd8bc37e01b788a763ed3eb9ccd9f86-240x335.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-portrait_custom-a8cf33a3fdd8bc37e01b788a763ed3eb9ccd9f86-375x523.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-portrait_custom-a8cf33a3fdd8bc37e01b788a763ed3eb9ccd9f86-520x725.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nigerian chef and writer Tunde Wey conceived his food stall experiment as a way to get people thinking about the racial income and wealth gaps in America and how it affects their own lives. \u003ccite>(Deji Osinulu)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"One of the things I took away from interviewing people was a greater awareness that people of color have thought about wealth disparity and how it has touched their lives and the kinds of things they've lost out on because they didn't have access to the resources their white friends did,\" says Prasertong. \"Not that [white people] weren't aware, but they never really thought about how ... that might have affected where they are in the world in relation to people of color. They never stopped to think, 'Oh, that car my parents gave me in college allowed me to drive across town to get a good job.'\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Prasertong points out, \"It's not a strict scientific study.\" One limitation of this experiment is that the customers who came to the stall were all in a higher-than-average income bracket. Prasertong says that may be one reason why the vast majority of customers of color – African-Americans, Latinos and Asians – declined to sign up to receive the redistributed money made from charging whites the higher price.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As of Feb. 28, the day the premise of the experiment was revealed in a\u003cem> Times-Picayune\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.nola.com/dining/index.ssf/2018/02/new_orleans_race_experiment.html\">article\u003c/a>, 64 people had completed the survey, which included 32 whites, Prasertong says. Twenty-five white customers paid the extra $18, adding up to a pool of $450. Only six people of color had signed up for distributions, which they would split evenly among them, $75 each.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The food stall – called \u003ca href=\"https://www.saartj.com/\">Saartj\u003c/a>, a reference to a 19th-century \u003ca href=\"http://www.sahistory.org.za/people/sara-saartjie-baartman\">black South African woman\u003c/a> infamously paraded as a \"freak show\" in Europe – will be open through Sunday, though the data collection part of the experiment is now over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While this experiment focused on racial income disparity in New Orleans, the numbers when it comes to the racial wealth gap in America are even starker. White families accumulate more wealth more quickly than do families comprised of people of color. As NPR's Code Switch team \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/codeswitch/2017/02/08/514105689/black-latino-two-parent-families-have-half-the-wealth-of-white-single-parents\">has reported\u003c/a>:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In 2013, the median white family held 13 times as much net wealth as the median black family and 10 times as much wealth as the median Latino family, according to the Federal Reserve's Survey of Consumer Finances.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are many reasons cited behind this gap, including slavery and institutional and governmental discrimination that excluded people of color from programs that helped Americans build wealth and pass it down through the generations. As Code Switch writes: \"Segregation and redlining by banks made it impossible for many black and Latino families to secure mortgages, for example. The GI Bill, which helped establish an American middle class by helping veterans pay for college and buy homes after World War II, mostly excluded people of color.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One goal of his experiment, says Wey, is to get people to think about how the racial wealth and income gaps affect their own lives, and also how they can as individuals be a force for change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We think of this as a systemic issue, like something that happens outside of ourselves, when in fact the aggregate sum of all of our actions and choices exacerbates or ameliorates the wealth gap,\" says Wey. That includes actions like \"where we choose to send our children to school, where we choose to buy a home and critically, how we choose to spend our money and where we choose to spend our money. \" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"To highlight racial income disparity, a chef in New Orleans opened a food stall, asking whites to pay $30 and people of color to pay $12 for the same meal. How did it play out?","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1520095272,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":21,"wordCount":1133},"headData":{"title":"Food Stall Serves Up A Social Experiment: Charge White Customers More Than Minorities | KQED","description":"To highlight racial income disparity, a chef in New Orleans opened a food stall, asking whites to pay $30 and people of color to pay $12 for the same meal. How did it play out?","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"125392 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=125392","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/03/03/food-stall-serves-up-a-social-experiment-charge-white-customers-more-than-minorities/","disqusTitle":"Food Stall Serves Up A Social Experiment: Charge White Customers More Than Minorities","source":"Politics, Activism, Food Safety","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/politics-activism-food-safety/","nprByline":"Maria Godoy, NPR Food","nprImageAgency":"Deji Osinulu","nprStoryId":"590053856","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=590053856&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2018/03/02/590053856/food-stall-serves-up-a-social-experiment-charge-white-customers-more-than-minori?ft=nprml&f=590053856","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Sat, 03 Mar 2018 08:20:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Fri, 02 Mar 2018 22:06:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Sat, 03 Mar 2018 08:20:01 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/125392/food-stall-serves-up-a-social-experiment-charge-white-customers-more-than-minorities","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Can a $12 lunch change the way people think about racial wealth disparity in America? How about a $30 lunch? That's the premise behind a social experiment playing out in a New Orleans food stall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Tunde Way opened his pop-up stall in the city's Roux Carre venue in early February. The listed price for the Nigerian food is $12. But when a white person walks up to order, they are asked to pay $30. Why? \"It's two-and-a half times more than the $12 meal, which reflects the income disparity\" between whites and African-Americans in New Orleans, says Wey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The median income for African-American households in New Orleans fell from $32,332 in 2000 to $27,812 in 2013 in inflation-adjusted dollars, according to The Data Center's \u003ca href=\"https://s3.amazonaws.com/gnocdc/reports/TheDataCenter_TheNewOrleansIndexatTen.pdf\">New Orleans Index at Ten\u003c/a>. Over the same time, median income for white households in the city remained roughly the same, $61,117 to $60,070. In 2013, the median household income for African-Americans in metro New Orleans was 54 percent lower than for whites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125394\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1980px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2.jpg\" alt=\"The menu outside of Saartj.\" width=\"1980\" height=\"1485\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125394\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2.jpg 1980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-menu-4e53d96201846957d9fe413ccd0bbd26c63a86b2-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1980px) 100vw, 1980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu outside of Saartj. \u003ccite>(Deji Osinulu)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Wey says when white customers come up to his window to place an order, he tells them about this racial income gap and then asks if they want to pay the higher $30 price. They also have the option to pay the listed $12 price. The difference between the $12 and $30 meals, customers are informed, will be redistributed to minorities who buy food at the stall. How do white customers react to the proposition?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some of them are enthusiastic, some of them are bamboozled a bit by it,\" Wey says. \"But the majority of white folks, nearly 80 percent, decided to pay.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That was definitely higher than we expected,\" says Anjali Prasertong, a graduate student in public health at Tulane University who helped Wey design the experiment and collect data.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Customers who agree to buy lunch were asked to fill out a brief survey online. A subset of these diners were also pulled aside and interviewed about how income and wealth disparity has played out in their own lives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prasertong points to one anecdote from an African-American customer whom she interviewed. \"I asked her, 'If you had been given access to more resources while you were growing up, would that have changed your life in any way?'\" Prasertong recalls. \"She immediately had an example.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The woman told Prasertong that when she was a college student, she was offered an unpaid summer White House internship in Washington, D.C. But that meant she would have had to find a way to support herself in another city instead of spending the summer earning money that she could use to help pay for school in the fall. The woman passed on the internship, Prasertong says, because \"she realized, 'Oh, it's just for rich people'\" – meaning students whose parents could afford to subsidize them while they worked for free. \"She still went on to be successful but if she'd done that internship, who knows what she'd be doing?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125395\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-portrait_custom-a8cf33a3fdd8bc37e01b788a763ed3eb9ccd9f86.jpg\" alt=\"Nigerian chef and writer Tunde Wey conceived his food stall experiment as a way to get people thinking about the racial income and wealth gaps in America and how it affects their own lives.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"1394\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125395\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-portrait_custom-a8cf33a3fdd8bc37e01b788a763ed3eb9ccd9f86.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-portrait_custom-a8cf33a3fdd8bc37e01b788a763ed3eb9ccd9f86-160x223.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-portrait_custom-a8cf33a3fdd8bc37e01b788a763ed3eb9ccd9f86-800x1115.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-portrait_custom-a8cf33a3fdd8bc37e01b788a763ed3eb9ccd9f86-768x1071.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-portrait_custom-a8cf33a3fdd8bc37e01b788a763ed3eb9ccd9f86-960x1338.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-portrait_custom-a8cf33a3fdd8bc37e01b788a763ed3eb9ccd9f86-240x335.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-portrait_custom-a8cf33a3fdd8bc37e01b788a763ed3eb9ccd9f86-375x523.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/saartj-portrait_custom-a8cf33a3fdd8bc37e01b788a763ed3eb9ccd9f86-520x725.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nigerian chef and writer Tunde Wey conceived his food stall experiment as a way to get people thinking about the racial income and wealth gaps in America and how it affects their own lives. \u003ccite>(Deji Osinulu)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"One of the things I took away from interviewing people was a greater awareness that people of color have thought about wealth disparity and how it has touched their lives and the kinds of things they've lost out on because they didn't have access to the resources their white friends did,\" says Prasertong. \"Not that [white people] weren't aware, but they never really thought about how ... that might have affected where they are in the world in relation to people of color. They never stopped to think, 'Oh, that car my parents gave me in college allowed me to drive across town to get a good job.'\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Prasertong points out, \"It's not a strict scientific study.\" One limitation of this experiment is that the customers who came to the stall were all in a higher-than-average income bracket. Prasertong says that may be one reason why the vast majority of customers of color – African-Americans, Latinos and Asians – declined to sign up to receive the redistributed money made from charging whites the higher price.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As of Feb. 28, the day the premise of the experiment was revealed in a\u003cem> Times-Picayune\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.nola.com/dining/index.ssf/2018/02/new_orleans_race_experiment.html\">article\u003c/a>, 64 people had completed the survey, which included 32 whites, Prasertong says. Twenty-five white customers paid the extra $18, adding up to a pool of $450. Only six people of color had signed up for distributions, which they would split evenly among them, $75 each.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The food stall – called \u003ca href=\"https://www.saartj.com/\">Saartj\u003c/a>, a reference to a 19th-century \u003ca href=\"http://www.sahistory.org.za/people/sara-saartjie-baartman\">black South African woman\u003c/a> infamously paraded as a \"freak show\" in Europe – will be open through Sunday, though the data collection part of the experiment is now over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While this experiment focused on racial income disparity in New Orleans, the numbers when it comes to the racial wealth gap in America are even starker. White families accumulate more wealth more quickly than do families comprised of people of color. As NPR's Code Switch team \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/codeswitch/2017/02/08/514105689/black-latino-two-parent-families-have-half-the-wealth-of-white-single-parents\">has reported\u003c/a>:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In 2013, the median white family held 13 times as much net wealth as the median black family and 10 times as much wealth as the median Latino family, according to the Federal Reserve's Survey of Consumer Finances.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are many reasons cited behind this gap, including slavery and institutional and governmental discrimination that excluded people of color from programs that helped Americans build wealth and pass it down through the generations. As Code Switch writes: \"Segregation and redlining by banks made it impossible for many black and Latino families to secure mortgages, for example. The GI Bill, which helped establish an American middle class by helping veterans pay for college and buy homes after World War II, mostly excluded people of color.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One goal of his experiment, says Wey, is to get people to think about how the racial wealth and income gaps affect their own lives, and also how they can as individuals be a force for change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We think of this as a systemic issue, like something that happens outside of ourselves, when in fact the aggregate sum of all of our actions and choices exacerbates or ameliorates the wealth gap,\" says Wey. That includes actions like \"where we choose to send our children to school, where we choose to buy a home and critically, how we choose to spend our money and where we choose to spend our money. \" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/125392/food-stall-serves-up-a-social-experiment-charge-white-customers-more-than-minorities","authors":["byline_bayareabites_125392"],"categories":["bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_358"],"tags":["bayareabites_965","bayareabites_11875","bayareabites_16066"],"featImg":"bayareabites_125393","label":"source_bayareabites_125392"},"bayareabites_107891":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_107891","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"107891","score":null,"sort":[1458664197000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"when-chefs-become-famous-cooking-other-cultures-food","title":"When Chefs Become Famous Cooking Other Cultures' Food","publishDate":1458664197,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>So you walk into the new Korean joint around the corner and discover that (gasp) the head chef is a white guy from Des Moines. What's your gut reaction? Do you want to walk out? Why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The question of who gets to cook other people's food can be squishy — just like the question of who gets to tell other people's stories. (See: The whole controversy over the \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/notes/2016/03/the-appropriation-of-nina-simone/474186/\">casting of the new Nina Simone biopic\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For some non-white Americans, the idea of eating \"ethnic cuisine\" (and there's a whole other debate about that term) not cooked by someone of that ethnicity can feel like a form of cultural theft. Where does inspiration end? When is riffing off someone's cuisine an homage, and when does it feel like a form of co-opting? And then there's the question of money: If you're financially benefiting from selling the cuisine of others, is that always wrong?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sporkful.com/\">Sporkful \u003c/a>from WNYC, Dan Pashman and his producer Anne Saini are exploring these questions in a series of thoughtful episodes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first one released poses these questions directly to a man who has often faced such accusations: Rick Bayless. (Just Google \"Rick Bayless\" and \"appropriation\" and you'll get plenty to feast on. Trust us.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He's considered one of America's premier experts on Mexican food. So much so that, when then-Mexican President Felipe Calderon visited the White House in 2010, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/12/dining/12dinner.html\">Bayless got tapped\u003c/a> to whip up the state dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He's also a white guy from Oklahoma. And over the years, that has made Bayless the target of criticism. How does he feel about that? Pashman asked Bayless in this exchange — it's worth listening to (it starts around 22 minutes, 13 seconds in):\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe frameborder=\"0\" src=\"https://www.wnyc.org/widgets/ondemand_player/sporkful/#file=/audio/json/585358/&share=1\" width=\"100%\" height=\"54\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>Pashman: \"There are also other Mexicans and Mexican-Americans who are like, 'Screw this guy Rick Bayless.' So how do you feel when you get that kind of reaction to your work?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bayless: \"Well, usually people who have that opinion of me don't want to have a conversation. Those people that say it are usually very political, and they have a mouthpiece and they just go around saying it. And everybody thinks, 'Oh, lots of people must believe that.' And honestly, I don't think they do. I know that there have been a number of people out there that criticized me only — only — because of my race. Because I'm white, I can't do anything with Mexican food. But we have to stop and say, 'Oh wait, is that plain racism then?' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Bayless — who is bilingual and spent years traveling through Mexico, studying regional fare — says his devotion to Mexican cuisine runs deep. \"It doesn't come from a shallow understanding, it comes from a deep understanding. I've done everything I can to make it my own,\" Bayless says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That argument holds sway with some of his defenders. (Including this really \u003ca href=\"http://groupthink.kinja.com/im-a-mexican-and-these-are-my-pet-peeves-1572171986\">enthusiastic one\u003c/a> on Kinja's commenting community: \"I'm betting dollars to donuts that Bayless has actually traveled far more extensively throughout Mexico, and speaks better f****** Spanish, than most of the bratty, 3rd, 4th, 5th generation Mexican-American hipsters who talk s*** about him.\")\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the question of who gets to be the ambassador of a cuisine comes up again and again. As Francis Lam \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/30/dining/masters-of-a-cuisine-by-calling-not-roots.html\">explored\u003c/a> in \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em> several years ago, there are reasons why chefs with no family roots in a cuisine might succeed in evangelizing that food when immigrants themselves struggle to do so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"An American-born chef is more likely than an immigrant to have the connections and the means to grab investors or news media attention — even more so if the chef came up through a prestigious restaurant or culinary school or is quick with a witty quote,\" Lam wrote. And, as outsiders, Lam adds, they may be freer to break from tradition and to subvert expectations than the immigrant chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, American chefs with family ties to other countries are learning this trick as well. Take, for example, Filipino-American chef Dale Talde. Last year, the former \u003cem>Top Chef\u003c/em> contestant and New York restaurateur released a cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.taldebrooklyn.com/cookbook/\">Asian-American\u003c/a>, featuring \"proudly inauthentic\" recipes like kung pao chicken wings and \"\u003ca href=\"http://luckypeach.com/how-to-make-hot-pockets/\">very warm hot pockets\u003c/a>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Deuki Hong, the rising star Korean-American chef, includes a recipe for \u003ca href=\"http://www.theepochtimes.com/n3/epochtaste/1986277-our-mildly-insane-kimchi-bokkeumbap-a-recipe-from-koreatown/\">kimchi fried rice\u003c/a> with bacon — \"quintessential America,\" as he calls it — in his \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> best-selling cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/02/17/466577536/welcome-to-koreatown-a-cookbook-to-tempt-american-tastebuds\">Koreatown\u003c/a>, written with Matt Rodbard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then there's James Beard winner Jose Garces, an Ecuadorian-American chef. His restaurant empire includes an \u003ca href=\"http://dc.ruralsocietyrestaurant.com/menu\">Argentinian joint\u003c/a> in D.C. and an eatery in Philadelphia serving New American fare like burgers, duck fat fries and chicken and waffles (a dish with its own \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/02/14/172019116/fried-chicken-and-waffles-the-dish-the-south-denied-as-its-own\">loaded cultural history\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, tell us. When do you think it's OK to cook other people's food? Does it matter to you, as you're sitting there in that new Korean joint, who's running the kitchen? What is lost, if anything, when you eat a cuisine without connecting to the culture behind it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Share your thoughts in the comments below or shout out to us on Twitter @NPRFood and @NPRCodeSwitch.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Rick Bayless is a master of Mexican fare. He's also a white guy from Oklahoma. Over the years, that's made him the target of criticism. Who gets to be the ambassador of a cuisine?","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1458665174,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":true,"iframeSrcs":["https://www.wnyc.org/widgets/ondemand_player/sporkful/#file=/audio/json/585358/&share=1"],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":22,"wordCount":887},"headData":{"title":"When Chefs Become Famous Cooking Other Cultures' Food | KQED","description":"Rick Bayless is a master of Mexican fare. He's also a white guy from Oklahoma. Over the years, that's made him the target of criticism. Who gets to be the ambassador of a cuisine?","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"107891 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=107891","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/03/22/when-chefs-become-famous-cooking-other-cultures-food/","disqusTitle":"When Chefs Become Famous Cooking Other Cultures' Food","nprImageCredit":"Sergi Alexander","nprByline":"\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/177498105/kat-chow\">Kat Chow\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/348777820/maria-godoy\">Maria Godoy\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"Getty Images","nprStoryId":"471309991","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=471309991&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/03/22/471309991/when-chefs-become-famous-cooking-other-cultures-food?ft=nprml&f=471309991","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 22 Mar 2016 06:30:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 22 Mar 2016 06:30:15 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 22 Mar 2016 06:30:15 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/107891/when-chefs-become-famous-cooking-other-cultures-food","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>So you walk into the new Korean joint around the corner and discover that (gasp) the head chef is a white guy from Des Moines. What's your gut reaction? Do you want to walk out? Why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The question of who gets to cook other people's food can be squishy — just like the question of who gets to tell other people's stories. (See: The whole controversy over the \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/notes/2016/03/the-appropriation-of-nina-simone/474186/\">casting of the new Nina Simone biopic\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For some non-white Americans, the idea of eating \"ethnic cuisine\" (and there's a whole other debate about that term) not cooked by someone of that ethnicity can feel like a form of cultural theft. Where does inspiration end? When is riffing off someone's cuisine an homage, and when does it feel like a form of co-opting? And then there's the question of money: If you're financially benefiting from selling the cuisine of others, is that always wrong?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sporkful.com/\">Sporkful \u003c/a>from WNYC, Dan Pashman and his producer Anne Saini are exploring these questions in a series of thoughtful episodes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first one released poses these questions directly to a man who has often faced such accusations: Rick Bayless. (Just Google \"Rick Bayless\" and \"appropriation\" and you'll get plenty to feast on. Trust us.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He's considered one of America's premier experts on Mexican food. So much so that, when then-Mexican President Felipe Calderon visited the White House in 2010, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/12/dining/12dinner.html\">Bayless got tapped\u003c/a> to whip up the state dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He's also a white guy from Oklahoma. And over the years, that has made Bayless the target of criticism. How does he feel about that? Pashman asked Bayless in this exchange — it's worth listening to (it starts around 22 minutes, 13 seconds in):\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe frameborder=\"0\" src=\"https://www.wnyc.org/widgets/ondemand_player/sporkful/#file=/audio/json/585358/&share=1\" width=\"100%\" height=\"54\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>Pashman: \"There are also other Mexicans and Mexican-Americans who are like, 'Screw this guy Rick Bayless.' So how do you feel when you get that kind of reaction to your work?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bayless: \"Well, usually people who have that opinion of me don't want to have a conversation. Those people that say it are usually very political, and they have a mouthpiece and they just go around saying it. And everybody thinks, 'Oh, lots of people must believe that.' And honestly, I don't think they do. I know that there have been a number of people out there that criticized me only — only — because of my race. Because I'm white, I can't do anything with Mexican food. But we have to stop and say, 'Oh wait, is that plain racism then?' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Bayless — who is bilingual and spent years traveling through Mexico, studying regional fare — says his devotion to Mexican cuisine runs deep. \"It doesn't come from a shallow understanding, it comes from a deep understanding. I've done everything I can to make it my own,\" Bayless says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That argument holds sway with some of his defenders. (Including this really \u003ca href=\"http://groupthink.kinja.com/im-a-mexican-and-these-are-my-pet-peeves-1572171986\">enthusiastic one\u003c/a> on Kinja's commenting community: \"I'm betting dollars to donuts that Bayless has actually traveled far more extensively throughout Mexico, and speaks better f****** Spanish, than most of the bratty, 3rd, 4th, 5th generation Mexican-American hipsters who talk s*** about him.\")\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the question of who gets to be the ambassador of a cuisine comes up again and again. As Francis Lam \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/30/dining/masters-of-a-cuisine-by-calling-not-roots.html\">explored\u003c/a> in \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em> several years ago, there are reasons why chefs with no family roots in a cuisine might succeed in evangelizing that food when immigrants themselves struggle to do so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"An American-born chef is more likely than an immigrant to have the connections and the means to grab investors or news media attention — even more so if the chef came up through a prestigious restaurant or culinary school or is quick with a witty quote,\" Lam wrote. And, as outsiders, Lam adds, they may be freer to break from tradition and to subvert expectations than the immigrant chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, American chefs with family ties to other countries are learning this trick as well. Take, for example, Filipino-American chef Dale Talde. Last year, the former \u003cem>Top Chef\u003c/em> contestant and New York restaurateur released a cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.taldebrooklyn.com/cookbook/\">Asian-American\u003c/a>, featuring \"proudly inauthentic\" recipes like kung pao chicken wings and \"\u003ca href=\"http://luckypeach.com/how-to-make-hot-pockets/\">very warm hot pockets\u003c/a>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Deuki Hong, the rising star Korean-American chef, includes a recipe for \u003ca href=\"http://www.theepochtimes.com/n3/epochtaste/1986277-our-mildly-insane-kimchi-bokkeumbap-a-recipe-from-koreatown/\">kimchi fried rice\u003c/a> with bacon — \"quintessential America,\" as he calls it — in his \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> best-selling cookbook, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/02/17/466577536/welcome-to-koreatown-a-cookbook-to-tempt-american-tastebuds\">Koreatown\u003c/a>, written with Matt Rodbard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then there's James Beard winner Jose Garces, an Ecuadorian-American chef. His restaurant empire includes an \u003ca href=\"http://dc.ruralsocietyrestaurant.com/menu\">Argentinian joint\u003c/a> in D.C. and an eatery in Philadelphia serving New American fare like burgers, duck fat fries and chicken and waffles (a dish with its own \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/02/14/172019116/fried-chicken-and-waffles-the-dish-the-south-denied-as-its-own\">loaded cultural history\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, tell us. When do you think it's OK to cook other people's food? Does it matter to you, as you're sitting there in that new Korean joint, who's running the kitchen? What is lost, if anything, when you eat a cuisine without connecting to the culture behind it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Share your thoughts in the comments below or shout out to us on Twitter @NPRFood and @NPRCodeSwitch.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/107891/when-chefs-become-famous-cooking-other-cultures-food","authors":["byline_bayareabites_107891"],"categories":["bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_15363","bayareabites_15365","bayareabites_15364","bayareabites_11875","bayareabites_4079"],"featImg":"bayareabites_107892","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_102446":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_102446","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"102446","score":null,"sort":[1445549395000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-startling-racial-divide-in-pay-for-restaurant-workers","title":"The Startling Racial Divide In Pay For Restaurant Workers","publishDate":1445549395,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>In America's fine-dining restaurants, how much workers get paid is closely correlated to the color of their skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's according to a new study from researchers at the University of Santa Cruz and UC Berkeley. The report, \u003ca href=\"https://www.scribd.com/fullscreen/285968393?access_key=key-aB2D7wLPk5XfesMYf7Wj&allow_share=true&escape=false&view_mode=scroll\">Ending Jim Crow in America's Restaurants\u003c/a>, describes how waiters at high-end restaurants may earn salaries five times greater than those of employees washing dishes, clearing tables and prepping food in the same establishment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That pay disparity among different jobs is perhaps to be expected. The troubling part is the stark racial divide the researchers found between the highest- and lowest-paid workers: Basically, white employees overwhelmingly fill the jobs with the heftiest salaries, while Latinos, blacks and other minorities occupy positions with pay closer to the poverty level. The divide is gender-based, too: White men across the restaurant industry are paid, on average in the U.S., roughly a quarter more than women, whether white or of color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The racial segregation seen among America's 11 million restaurant workers is not necessarily a result of intentional discrimination on the part of employers, says study co-author \u003ca href=\"https://ccrec.ucsc.edu/profile/chris-benner-phd\">Chris Benner\u003c/a>, a professor of environmental studies at UC Santa Cruz.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rather, it is a product of many factors that cannot easily be eliminated or addressed through policy and legislation — the way that safe working conditions or minimum wage can.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For one thing, Benner tells The Salt, Latinos tend to apply for certain types of jobs, like dishwasher, line cook and table busser. Likewise, such so-called \"back-of-house\" positions are not generally targeted by Caucasian applicants, who more often seek higher-paying bartender and waiter positions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We call this the self-selection bias,\" says Benner, whose research involved interviewing owners and managers at 12 California restaurants, half of which were high-end establishments, and closely analyzing national industry data. \"People may just not see themselves as working in a certain area.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes, he says, customers may drive the bias against immigrants filling front-of-house positions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've heard of a lot of stories where the customer actually asked for a different server, because they had a hard time understanding the accent of whoever the server is,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is not the first time a close look at the restaurant industry has revealed striking inequity in the labor force. The organization Restaurant Opportunities Centers United went undercover in 2011 and 2012 and found that upscale restaurants were racially discriminating in their hiring process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The national group sent pairs of equally qualified individuals — one person white, the other not — to apply for jobs at white tablecloth-type restaurants in Chicago, Detroit and New Orleans. The group repeated this method, called \"matched pair testing,\" 273 times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Testers of color [in Chicago] were only 53 percent as likely as white testers to get a job offer, and were less likely than white testers to receive a job interview in the first place,\" according to the resulting \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/the-great-service-divide-national/\">report\u003c/a>, published in 2014. Applicants of color fared better in the other cities, but were still far less likely than their white counterparts to get the job.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That study was led by \u003ca href=\"http://laborcenter.berkeley.edu/author/saru-jayaraman/\">Saru Jayaraman\u003c/a>, co-director of Restaurant Opportunities Centers United and the director of the Food Labor Research Institute at UC Berkeley. She tells The Salt that about 20 percent of restaurant jobs pay exceptionally well. In the San Francisco Bay Area, for example, servers and bartenders can take home as much as $180,000 per year, she says – if they're working in upper-end establishments, the kind with $125 a person tasting menus, for example.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"But these jobs are held almost exclusively by white people, and in particular, white men,\" says Jayaraman, who also collaborated with Benner on the more recent research.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Latinos, she says, tend to spend their restaurant careers in back-of-house jobs, earning somewhere closer to $30,000 per year – with few paths for promotion or pay raises. Jayaraman says she has interviewed Latino table bussers who reported having helped train newly hired white employees who were easing into positions waiting tables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Then, within weeks or months, the people they're training are earning five times what that busser is making,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>African-Americans seem to have a particularly tough plight in the restaurant industry, mostly working in down-market restaurants where wages and tips are minimal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For African-American workers, it's almost 100-percent exclusion from [fine dining restaurants] altogether,\" Jayaraman says. \"They work almost exclusively at fast-food restaurants or very casual restaurants like Red Lobster.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of the big bucks in the restaurant industry come from tipping — a practice that is increasingly coming under scrutiny. Prominent New York restaurateur Danny Meyer recently banished tipping in his eateries as a step toward equalizing the skewed pay scale. In an \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/10/14/448678237/danny-meyer-will-banish-tipping-and-raise-prices-at-his-restaurants\">interview with NPR\u003c/a>, he noted that waiters' take-home pay at fine restaurants has skyrocketed thanks to tips, but the pay of workers at the back of the house hasn't kept pace. And women workers who rely on tips may feel obliged to tolerate sexual harassment from customers, Jayaraman \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2015/10/16/opinion/why-tipping-is-wrong.html?_r=0\">argued\u003c/a> in a recent op-ed for \u003cem>The\u003c/em> \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The National Restaurant Association thinks little of the new \"Ending Jim Crow\" study.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The restaurant industry is one of the most diverse industries in America, with zero barriers to entry and endless pathways to success,\" says Katie Niebaum, the association's vice president of communications, who corresponded with The Salt via email.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Niebaum, citing U.S. Census Bureau numbers, says restaurant ownership among minorities and women \"outpaced growth in the overall industry during the last 10 years on record.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In addition, we proudly employ more women and minority managers than any other industry,\" she says. \"Two in five restaurant managers are women; overall, one in three come from a minority background.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The researchers agree that the restaurant industry is more racially diverse today in America than in the past.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that, Jayaraman warns, should not necessarily win the industry any brownie points.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It just makes the segregation more and more pernicious, because we see greater concentrations of people of color in lower-level positions,\" Jayaraman says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"At fine-dining places, white workers overwhelmingly fill jobs with the heftiest salaries, while Latinos, blacks and other minorities have jobs with pay closer to the poverty level, a study finds.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1445549395,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":29,"wordCount":1043},"headData":{"title":"The Startling Racial Divide In Pay For Restaurant Workers | KQED","description":"At fine-dining places, white workers overwhelmingly fill jobs with the heftiest salaries, while Latinos, blacks and other minorities have jobs with pay closer to the poverty level, a study finds.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"102446 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=102446","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/10/22/the-startling-racial-divide-in-pay-for-restaurant-workers/","disqusTitle":"The Startling Racial Divide In Pay For Restaurant Workers","nprByline":"Alastair Bland, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/npr-food/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprStoryId":"450863158","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=450863158&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/10/22/450863158/the-startling-racial-divide-in-pay-for-restaurant-workers?ft=nprml&f=450863158","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:35:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:02:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:35:14 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/102446/the-startling-racial-divide-in-pay-for-restaurant-workers","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In America's fine-dining restaurants, how much workers get paid is closely correlated to the color of their skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's according to a new study from researchers at the University of Santa Cruz and UC Berkeley. The report, \u003ca href=\"https://www.scribd.com/fullscreen/285968393?access_key=key-aB2D7wLPk5XfesMYf7Wj&allow_share=true&escape=false&view_mode=scroll\">Ending Jim Crow in America's Restaurants\u003c/a>, describes how waiters at high-end restaurants may earn salaries five times greater than those of employees washing dishes, clearing tables and prepping food in the same establishment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That pay disparity among different jobs is perhaps to be expected. The troubling part is the stark racial divide the researchers found between the highest- and lowest-paid workers: Basically, white employees overwhelmingly fill the jobs with the heftiest salaries, while Latinos, blacks and other minorities occupy positions with pay closer to the poverty level. The divide is gender-based, too: White men across the restaurant industry are paid, on average in the U.S., roughly a quarter more than women, whether white or of color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The racial segregation seen among America's 11 million restaurant workers is not necessarily a result of intentional discrimination on the part of employers, says study co-author \u003ca href=\"https://ccrec.ucsc.edu/profile/chris-benner-phd\">Chris Benner\u003c/a>, a professor of environmental studies at UC Santa Cruz.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rather, it is a product of many factors that cannot easily be eliminated or addressed through policy and legislation — the way that safe working conditions or minimum wage can.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For one thing, Benner tells The Salt, Latinos tend to apply for certain types of jobs, like dishwasher, line cook and table busser. Likewise, such so-called \"back-of-house\" positions are not generally targeted by Caucasian applicants, who more often seek higher-paying bartender and waiter positions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We call this the self-selection bias,\" says Benner, whose research involved interviewing owners and managers at 12 California restaurants, half of which were high-end establishments, and closely analyzing national industry data. \"People may just not see themselves as working in a certain area.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes, he says, customers may drive the bias against immigrants filling front-of-house positions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've heard of a lot of stories where the customer actually asked for a different server, because they had a hard time understanding the accent of whoever the server is,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is not the first time a close look at the restaurant industry has revealed striking inequity in the labor force. The organization Restaurant Opportunities Centers United went undercover in 2011 and 2012 and found that upscale restaurants were racially discriminating in their hiring process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The national group sent pairs of equally qualified individuals — one person white, the other not — to apply for jobs at white tablecloth-type restaurants in Chicago, Detroit and New Orleans. The group repeated this method, called \"matched pair testing,\" 273 times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Testers of color [in Chicago] were only 53 percent as likely as white testers to get a job offer, and were less likely than white testers to receive a job interview in the first place,\" according to the resulting \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/the-great-service-divide-national/\">report\u003c/a>, published in 2014. Applicants of color fared better in the other cities, but were still far less likely than their white counterparts to get the job.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That study was led by \u003ca href=\"http://laborcenter.berkeley.edu/author/saru-jayaraman/\">Saru Jayaraman\u003c/a>, co-director of Restaurant Opportunities Centers United and the director of the Food Labor Research Institute at UC Berkeley. She tells The Salt that about 20 percent of restaurant jobs pay exceptionally well. In the San Francisco Bay Area, for example, servers and bartenders can take home as much as $180,000 per year, she says – if they're working in upper-end establishments, the kind with $125 a person tasting menus, for example.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"But these jobs are held almost exclusively by white people, and in particular, white men,\" says Jayaraman, who also collaborated with Benner on the more recent research.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Latinos, she says, tend to spend their restaurant careers in back-of-house jobs, earning somewhere closer to $30,000 per year – with few paths for promotion or pay raises. Jayaraman says she has interviewed Latino table bussers who reported having helped train newly hired white employees who were easing into positions waiting tables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Then, within weeks or months, the people they're training are earning five times what that busser is making,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>African-Americans seem to have a particularly tough plight in the restaurant industry, mostly working in down-market restaurants where wages and tips are minimal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For African-American workers, it's almost 100-percent exclusion from [fine dining restaurants] altogether,\" Jayaraman says. \"They work almost exclusively at fast-food restaurants or very casual restaurants like Red Lobster.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of the big bucks in the restaurant industry come from tipping — a practice that is increasingly coming under scrutiny. Prominent New York restaurateur Danny Meyer recently banished tipping in his eateries as a step toward equalizing the skewed pay scale. In an \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/10/14/448678237/danny-meyer-will-banish-tipping-and-raise-prices-at-his-restaurants\">interview with NPR\u003c/a>, he noted that waiters' take-home pay at fine restaurants has skyrocketed thanks to tips, but the pay of workers at the back of the house hasn't kept pace. And women workers who rely on tips may feel obliged to tolerate sexual harassment from customers, Jayaraman \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2015/10/16/opinion/why-tipping-is-wrong.html?_r=0\">argued\u003c/a> in a recent op-ed for \u003cem>The\u003c/em> \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The National Restaurant Association thinks little of the new \"Ending Jim Crow\" study.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The restaurant industry is one of the most diverse industries in America, with zero barriers to entry and endless pathways to success,\" says Katie Niebaum, the association's vice president of communications, who corresponded with The Salt via email.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Niebaum, citing U.S. Census Bureau numbers, says restaurant ownership among minorities and women \"outpaced growth in the overall industry during the last 10 years on record.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In addition, we proudly employ more women and minority managers than any other industry,\" she says. \"Two in five restaurant managers are women; overall, one in three come from a minority background.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The researchers agree that the restaurant industry is more racially diverse today in America than in the past.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that, Jayaraman warns, should not necessarily win the industry any brownie points.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It just makes the segregation more and more pernicious, because we see greater concentrations of people of color in lower-level positions,\" Jayaraman says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/102446/the-startling-racial-divide-in-pay-for-restaurant-workers","authors":["byline_bayareabites_102446"],"categories":["bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1146","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_14998","bayareabites_14997","bayareabites_14800","bayareabites_14996","bayareabites_8832","bayareabites_11875","bayareabites_11425","bayareabites_11424","bayareabites_11318","bayareabites_9649","bayareabites_14999","bayareabites_13064"],"featImg":"bayareabites_102447","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_97781":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_97781","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"97781","score":null,"sort":[1436558078000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-fried-chicken-capital-where-racial-progress-began-along-the-rails","title":"'The Fried Chicken Capital': Where Racial Progress Began Along The Rails","publishDate":1436558078,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Fried chicken is a \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/codeswitch/2013/05/22/186087397/where-did-that-fried-chicken-stereotype-come-from\">racially fraught food\u003c/a>. Historically, it's been associated with racist depictions of African-Americans, and today, some still wield the fried-chicken-eating stereotype as an insult. But in some cases, the food itself has provided a path toward financial freedom for blacks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the town of Gordonsville, Va., for example. As Lauren Ober of NPR member station WAMU \u003ca href=\"http://wamu.org/programs/metro_connection/15/07/03/how_gordonsville_virginia_became_the_world_capital_of_fried_chicken\">recently reported\u003c/a>, in the latter half of the 1800s, the town gained fame as the \"Fried Chicken Capital of the World.\" And the reasons why date back to the rise of the railroad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time the Civil War broke out, the town was a main stop on two rail lines. It was also a major \u003ca href=\"http://www.encyclopediavirginia.org/Gordonsville_During_the_Civil_War#start_entry\">transportation hub\u003c/a> for produce coming from Virginia's Shenandoah Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But those trains didn't have dining cars, and local African-American women found a business opportunity in hungry passengers. The women would cook up fried chicken, biscuits, pies and other tasty goods and sell it from the train platform, passing it over to passengers through the open windows.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 858px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2.jpg\" alt=\"Waiter carriers sell their wares along the platform. According to Williams-Forson's book, Bella Winston's mother is one of the women pictured in this photo.\" width=\"858\" height=\"623\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2.jpg 858w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2-400x290.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2-800x581.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 858px) 100vw, 858px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Waiter carriers sell their wares along the platform. According to Williams-Forson's book, Bella Winston's mother is one of the women pictured in this photo. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of the Town of Gordonsville )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These vendors, known as waiter carriers because they had to transport the food a long way to get to the station, developed a reputation for their culinary skills, according to \u003ca href=\"http://amst.umd.edu/people/faculty/psyche-williams-forson/\">Psyche Williams-Forson\u003c/a>, an associate professor of American Studies at the University of Maryland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some people would deliberately chart their way through Gordonsville because they knew they would encounter these women and those particular foodstuffs,\" Williams-Forson tells Ober.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the waiter carriers of Gordonsville, fried chicken became an avenue of economic empowerment after the Civil War. The title of Williams-Forson's \u003ca href=\"http://uncpress.unc.edu/browse/book_detail?title_id=1400\">2006 book\u003c/a>, \u003cem>Building Houses Out of Chicken Legs: Black Women, Food and Power,\u003c/em> is a nod to this entrepreneurial legacy: Bella Winston, an 80-year-old former waiter carrier, who learned the trade from her mother, told a local newspaper in 1970, \"My mother paid for this place with chicken legs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That degree of economic independence was rare for African-Americans post-emancipation, Gordonsville Mayor Bob Coiner tells Ober:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"At the end of the Civil War, when we have new freedoms for people, they're put in a position where they need jobs,\" says Coiner, whose family has lived in Gordonsville for many generations. \"The situation was bad before, but you could count on the situation. Now it was a big unknown.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The waiter carriers were part of a larger tradition of African-American women who found economic independence — in some cases even \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/02/10/171663336/meet-the-calas-a-new-orleans-treat-that-helped-free-slaves\">buying their own freedom\u003c/a> — through their cooking skills. Indeed, one of the first cookbooks published by a black woman in America was \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/06/02/411518221/slavery-famine-and-the-politics-of-pie-what-civil-war-recipes-reveal\">put out\u003c/a> by an ex-slave woman in 1881.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Williams-Forson writes that the historical record is sparse when it comes to Gordonsville's fried chicken vendors. But, she tells Ober, \"I think it's important to talk about it, because it reflects some level of agency that some African-Americans were able to exhibit during that horrible institution.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, fried chicken is a particularly racially charged dish. To wit: the\u003ca href=\"http://depts.washington.edu/civilr/coon_chicken.htm\"> Coon Chicken Inn\u003c/a>, a restaurant chain begun in Salt Lake City, Utah, in 1925, that was popular for its fried chicken. The decor was as racist as the name. The caricature of a black man with grotesquely oversized red, open, smiling lips, a porter's hat askew on his head, was ubiquitous: on silverware, menus, matchbooks and other advertising. Customers had to walk through a giant version of those grinning lips to enter the restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Back in those days ... it wasn't nothing to see [such] mockery. Black folks was always being mocked,\" according to former headwaiter Roy Hawkins, whose recollections of working there appear in Williams-Forson's book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hawkins said he had to endure customer insults, but it was lucrative work: He'd bring home $100 to $200 a night in tips, at a time when bricklayers earned $5 a day. As Hawkins \u003ca href=\"http://archive.sltrib.com/article.php?id=3951441&itype=NGPSID\">told\u003c/a> \u003cem>The Salt Lake Tribune\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>in 2006, he ended up \"laughing all the way to the bank.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for the waiter carriers of Gordonsville, their trade disappeared in the first half of the 20th century, as dining cars were added to trains and government regulations cracked down on track-side food vendors. But their legacy lives on in Gordonsville, which \u003ca href=\"http://www.fredericksburg.com/featuresfood/chicken-tradition-gordonsville-may-be-known-as-the-fried-chicken/article_f6b21b7e-dbb7-5be5-a3d8-808b6469ffd6.html\">hosts\u003c/a> an annual fried chicken contest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lauren Ober's \u003ca href=\"http://wamu.org/programs/metro_connection/15/07/03/how_gordonsville_virginia_became_the_world_capital_of_fried_chicken\">report\u003c/a> on Gordonsville's fried chicken tradition aired on member station WAMU in Washington, D.C. You can listen to a longer version of that story, which details other ways that African-American women have found economic empowerment through food, \u003ca href=\"https://www.southernfoodways.org/gravy/fried-chicken-a-complicated-comfort-food-gravy-ep-16/\">from Gravy\u003c/a>, the podcast from the Southern Foodways Alliance.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Fried chicken is a racially fraught food. But for African-American women in Gordonsville, Va., the dish became a route to financial independence after the Civil War.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1436558078,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":19,"wordCount":811},"headData":{"title":"'The Fried Chicken Capital': Where Racial Progress Began Along The Rails | KQED","description":"Fried chicken is a racially fraught food. But for African-American women in Gordonsville, Va., the dish became a route to financial independence after the Civil War.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"97781 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=97781","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/07/10/the-fried-chicken-capital-where-racial-progress-began-along-the-rails/","disqusTitle":"'The Fried Chicken Capital': Where Racial Progress Began Along The Rails","nprByline":"Maria Godoy, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprStoryId":"421469370","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=421469370&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/07/10/421469370/fried-chicken-and-freedom-a-virginia-town-s-surprising-civil-war-legacy?ft=nprml&f=421469370","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Fri, 10 Jul 2015 14:26:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Fri, 10 Jul 2015 13:01:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Fri, 10 Jul 2015 14:26:20 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/97781/the-fried-chicken-capital-where-racial-progress-began-along-the-rails","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Fried chicken is a \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/codeswitch/2013/05/22/186087397/where-did-that-fried-chicken-stereotype-come-from\">racially fraught food\u003c/a>. Historically, it's been associated with racist depictions of African-Americans, and today, some still wield the fried-chicken-eating stereotype as an insult. But in some cases, the food itself has provided a path toward financial freedom for blacks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the town of Gordonsville, Va., for example. As Lauren Ober of NPR member station WAMU \u003ca href=\"http://wamu.org/programs/metro_connection/15/07/03/how_gordonsville_virginia_became_the_world_capital_of_fried_chicken\">recently reported\u003c/a>, in the latter half of the 1800s, the town gained fame as the \"Fried Chicken Capital of the World.\" And the reasons why date back to the rise of the railroad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time the Civil War broke out, the town was a main stop on two rail lines. It was also a major \u003ca href=\"http://www.encyclopediavirginia.org/Gordonsville_During_the_Civil_War#start_entry\">transportation hub\u003c/a> for produce coming from Virginia's Shenandoah Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But those trains didn't have dining cars, and local African-American women found a business opportunity in hungry passengers. The women would cook up fried chicken, biscuits, pies and other tasty goods and sell it from the train platform, passing it over to passengers through the open windows.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 858px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2.jpg\" alt=\"Waiter carriers sell their wares along the platform. According to Williams-Forson's book, Bella Winston's mother is one of the women pictured in this photo.\" width=\"858\" height=\"623\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2.jpg 858w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2-400x290.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2-800x581.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 858px) 100vw, 858px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Waiter carriers sell their wares along the platform. According to Williams-Forson's book, Bella Winston's mother is one of the women pictured in this photo. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of the Town of Gordonsville )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These vendors, known as waiter carriers because they had to transport the food a long way to get to the station, developed a reputation for their culinary skills, according to \u003ca href=\"http://amst.umd.edu/people/faculty/psyche-williams-forson/\">Psyche Williams-Forson\u003c/a>, an associate professor of American Studies at the University of Maryland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some people would deliberately chart their way through Gordonsville because they knew they would encounter these women and those particular foodstuffs,\" Williams-Forson tells Ober.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the waiter carriers of Gordonsville, fried chicken became an avenue of economic empowerment after the Civil War. The title of Williams-Forson's \u003ca href=\"http://uncpress.unc.edu/browse/book_detail?title_id=1400\">2006 book\u003c/a>, \u003cem>Building Houses Out of Chicken Legs: Black Women, Food and Power,\u003c/em> is a nod to this entrepreneurial legacy: Bella Winston, an 80-year-old former waiter carrier, who learned the trade from her mother, told a local newspaper in 1970, \"My mother paid for this place with chicken legs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That degree of economic independence was rare for African-Americans post-emancipation, Gordonsville Mayor Bob Coiner tells Ober:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"At the end of the Civil War, when we have new freedoms for people, they're put in a position where they need jobs,\" says Coiner, whose family has lived in Gordonsville for many generations. \"The situation was bad before, but you could count on the situation. Now it was a big unknown.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The waiter carriers were part of a larger tradition of African-American women who found economic independence — in some cases even \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/02/10/171663336/meet-the-calas-a-new-orleans-treat-that-helped-free-slaves\">buying their own freedom\u003c/a> — through their cooking skills. Indeed, one of the first cookbooks published by a black woman in America was \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/06/02/411518221/slavery-famine-and-the-politics-of-pie-what-civil-war-recipes-reveal\">put out\u003c/a> by an ex-slave woman in 1881.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Williams-Forson writes that the historical record is sparse when it comes to Gordonsville's fried chicken vendors. But, she tells Ober, \"I think it's important to talk about it, because it reflects some level of agency that some African-Americans were able to exhibit during that horrible institution.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, fried chicken is a particularly racially charged dish. To wit: the\u003ca href=\"http://depts.washington.edu/civilr/coon_chicken.htm\"> Coon Chicken Inn\u003c/a>, a restaurant chain begun in Salt Lake City, Utah, in 1925, that was popular for its fried chicken. The decor was as racist as the name. The caricature of a black man with grotesquely oversized red, open, smiling lips, a porter's hat askew on his head, was ubiquitous: on silverware, menus, matchbooks and other advertising. Customers had to walk through a giant version of those grinning lips to enter the restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Back in those days ... it wasn't nothing to see [such] mockery. Black folks was always being mocked,\" according to former headwaiter Roy Hawkins, whose recollections of working there appear in Williams-Forson's book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hawkins said he had to endure customer insults, but it was lucrative work: He'd bring home $100 to $200 a night in tips, at a time when bricklayers earned $5 a day. As Hawkins \u003ca href=\"http://archive.sltrib.com/article.php?id=3951441&itype=NGPSID\">told\u003c/a> \u003cem>The Salt Lake Tribune\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>in 2006, he ended up \"laughing all the way to the bank.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for the waiter carriers of Gordonsville, their trade disappeared in the first half of the 20th century, as dining cars were added to trains and government regulations cracked down on track-side food vendors. But their legacy lives on in Gordonsville, which \u003ca href=\"http://www.fredericksburg.com/featuresfood/chicken-tradition-gordonsville-may-be-known-as-the-fried-chicken/article_f6b21b7e-dbb7-5be5-a3d8-808b6469ffd6.html\">hosts\u003c/a> an annual fried chicken contest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lauren Ober's \u003ca href=\"http://wamu.org/programs/metro_connection/15/07/03/how_gordonsville_virginia_became_the_world_capital_of_fried_chicken\">report\u003c/a> on Gordonsville's fried chicken tradition aired on member station WAMU in Washington, D.C. You can listen to a longer version of that story, which details other ways that African-American women have found economic empowerment through food, \u003ca href=\"https://www.southernfoodways.org/gravy/fried-chicken-a-complicated-comfort-food-gravy-ep-16/\">from Gravy\u003c/a>, the podcast from the Southern Foodways Alliance.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/97781/the-fried-chicken-capital-where-racial-progress-began-along-the-rails","authors":["byline_bayareabites_97781"],"categories":["bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_14326","bayareabites_14619","bayareabites_330","bayareabites_14620","bayareabites_11875","bayareabites_14621"],"featImg":"bayareabites_97782","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_63920":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_63920","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"63920","score":null,"sort":[1371831483000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"paula-deen-child-of-dixie-meet-the-internet-age","title":"Paula Deen: Child Of Dixie, Meet The Internet Age","publishDate":1371831483,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63924\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/pauladeen.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/pauladeen-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Will Paula Deen's admission of using a racial slur crumble her empire? Photo: Courtesy of Food Network/AP\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63924\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Will Paula Deen's admission of using a racial slur crumble her empire? Photo: Courtesy of Food Network/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Maria Godoy, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/06/20/193984884/paula-deen-child-of-dixie-meet-the-internet-age\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (6/20/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paula Deen may be famous for her deep-fried Southern cooking, but the Internet isn't buying her defense that she used a racial slur because of her deep Dixie roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>News that Food Network star \u003ca href=\"http://www.cnn.com/2013/06/19/showbiz/paula-deen-racial-slur/index.html\">Deen admitted\u003c/a> to using the N-word has set the Internet on fire, inspiring the Twitter hashtag \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/search?q=%23PaulasBestDishes&src=tyah\">#PaulasBestDishes\u003c/a>. (Eater has \u003ca href=\"http://eater.com/archives/2013/06/19/the-best-and-worst-paulasbestdishes-tweets-mocking-paula-deen.php\">rounded up\u003c/a> some of the best and worst of the breed.) Among the sample fare:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\"cobblers filled with \"Strange\" Fruit\" (a reference to a\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/09/05/158933012/the-strange-story-of-the-man-behind-strange-fruit\"> racially loaded Billie Holiday song\u003c/a>)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\"Brie at last. Brie at last!\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\"Paula Deen can teach you how to properly segregate the eggs whites from the colored yolk.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\"We Shall Over-Crumb Cake\"\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Deen's admission that she used the epithet came during a deposition in a sexual and racial harassment lawsuit filed against her and her brother by a former employee. Trying to contain the controversy, Paula Deen Enterprises issued a statement Thursday that suggested Deen's use of the N-word occurred long ago — after all, she was born in Georgia in 1947, at a time when segregation was still the law of the land in the South. The company statement read in part:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"During a deposition where she swore to tell the truth, Ms. Deen recounted having used a racial epithet in the past, speaking largely about a time in American history which was quite different than today,\" the statement reads. \"[Paula] was born 60 years ago when America's South had schools that were segregated, different bathrooms, different restaurants and Americans rode in different parts of the bus. This is not today.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>For those of you just catching up with this story, when Deen was asked by an attorney whether she had used the N-word, she responded, according to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.scribd.com/fullscreen/148813272?access_key=key-1bwrp0z47fo5v3xlbcs7&allow_share=true\">transcript\u003c/a>, \"Yes, of course. ... But that's just not a word that we use as time has gone on. Things have changed since the '60s in the South.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her attorney Bill Franklin added in a statement that, contrary to media reports, Deen does not condone or find the use of racial epithets acceptable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What the statements of Deen's representatives don't address, however, is the racial tone-deafness that Deen is alleged to have displayed in more recent years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the lawsuit, for her brother's wedding in 2007, Deen allegedly wanted a \"true Southern plantation-style wedding\" — including hiring middle-aged black men to serve as waiters in white jackets and black bow ties. As NPR's \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=193965215\">Kathy Lohr reports\u003c/a> on \u003cem>All Things Considered,\u003c/em> during her deposition, Deen said she admired the waiters' professionalism. But Deen denied a former employee's allegations that she used the N-word to describe these black waiters. That allegation probably inspired this #PaulasBestDishes tweet: \"Old-timey black tuxedo cake, served by non-uppity black servants.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=193965215\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/06/20130620_atc_07.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But is all this Paula punning and panning likely to crumble her buttery empire — which includes not just TV shows but also cookbooks, a magazine and several restaurants?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think anyone in good conscience will have to pause in thinking about supporting her company in light of this,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://userwww.service.emory.edu/~tforman/\">Tyrone Forman\u003c/a>, a sociology professor at Emory University.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"She sells food and catering but also image,\" Forman told Lohr.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A spokeswoman for Food Network told NPR that the network will not tolerate any form of discrimination and is monitoring the situation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ultimately, Deen's fate may lie in the hands of fans, many of whom profess an emotional connection with the celebrity chef. As food anthropologist Christine DuBois \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2011/11/26/142728673/with-paula-deen-its-not-really-about-the-pie\">told The Salt\u003c/a> back in 2011, for some fans, Deen \"becomes that wonderful neighbor or that grandma who's missing in our lives.\" But if Grandma says something racially insensitive, do you stop inviting her over for dinner? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Revelations that celebrity chef Paula Deen admitted to using a racial epithet have inspired some pretty funny punning online. But they've also raised questions whether the controversy will see Deen's buttery empire crumble.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1371833138,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":18,"wordCount":685},"headData":{"title":"Paula Deen: Child Of Dixie, Meet The Internet Age | KQED","description":"Revelations that celebrity chef Paula Deen admitted to using a racial epithet have inspired some pretty funny punning online. But they've also raised questions whether the controversy will see Deen's buttery empire crumble.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"63920 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=63920","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/06/21/paula-deen-child-of-dixie-meet-the-internet-age/","disqusTitle":"Paula Deen: Child Of Dixie, Meet The Internet Age","nprByline":"Maria Godoy","nprStoryId":"193984884","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=193984884&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/06/20/193984884/paula-deen-child-of-dixie-meet-the-internet-age?ft=3&f=193984884","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 20 Jun 2013 21:18:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 20 Jun 2013 19:19:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 20 Jun 2013 21:18:52 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/63920/paula-deen-child-of-dixie-meet-the-internet-age","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/06/20130620_atc_07.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1070&ft=3&f=193965215","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63924\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/pauladeen.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/pauladeen-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Will Paula Deen's admission of using a racial slur crumble her empire? Photo: Courtesy of Food Network/AP\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63924\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Will Paula Deen's admission of using a racial slur crumble her empire? Photo: Courtesy of Food Network/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Maria Godoy, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/06/20/193984884/paula-deen-child-of-dixie-meet-the-internet-age\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (6/20/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paula Deen may be famous for her deep-fried Southern cooking, but the Internet isn't buying her defense that she used a racial slur because of her deep Dixie roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>News that Food Network star \u003ca href=\"http://www.cnn.com/2013/06/19/showbiz/paula-deen-racial-slur/index.html\">Deen admitted\u003c/a> to using the N-word has set the Internet on fire, inspiring the Twitter hashtag \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/search?q=%23PaulasBestDishes&src=tyah\">#PaulasBestDishes\u003c/a>. (Eater has \u003ca href=\"http://eater.com/archives/2013/06/19/the-best-and-worst-paulasbestdishes-tweets-mocking-paula-deen.php\">rounded up\u003c/a> some of the best and worst of the breed.) Among the sample fare:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\"cobblers filled with \"Strange\" Fruit\" (a reference to a\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/09/05/158933012/the-strange-story-of-the-man-behind-strange-fruit\"> racially loaded Billie Holiday song\u003c/a>)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\"Brie at last. Brie at last!\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\"Paula Deen can teach you how to properly segregate the eggs whites from the colored yolk.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\"We Shall Over-Crumb Cake\"\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Deen's admission that she used the epithet came during a deposition in a sexual and racial harassment lawsuit filed against her and her brother by a former employee. Trying to contain the controversy, Paula Deen Enterprises issued a statement Thursday that suggested Deen's use of the N-word occurred long ago — after all, she was born in Georgia in 1947, at a time when segregation was still the law of the land in the South. The company statement read in part:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"During a deposition where she swore to tell the truth, Ms. Deen recounted having used a racial epithet in the past, speaking largely about a time in American history which was quite different than today,\" the statement reads. \"[Paula] was born 60 years ago when America's South had schools that were segregated, different bathrooms, different restaurants and Americans rode in different parts of the bus. This is not today.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>For those of you just catching up with this story, when Deen was asked by an attorney whether she had used the N-word, she responded, according to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.scribd.com/fullscreen/148813272?access_key=key-1bwrp0z47fo5v3xlbcs7&allow_share=true\">transcript\u003c/a>, \"Yes, of course. ... But that's just not a word that we use as time has gone on. Things have changed since the '60s in the South.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her attorney Bill Franklin added in a statement that, contrary to media reports, Deen does not condone or find the use of racial epithets acceptable.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What the statements of Deen's representatives don't address, however, is the racial tone-deafness that Deen is alleged to have displayed in more recent years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the lawsuit, for her brother's wedding in 2007, Deen allegedly wanted a \"true Southern plantation-style wedding\" — including hiring middle-aged black men to serve as waiters in white jackets and black bow ties. As NPR's \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=193965215\">Kathy Lohr reports\u003c/a> on \u003cem>All Things Considered,\u003c/em> during her deposition, Deen said she admired the waiters' professionalism. But Deen denied a former employee's allegations that she used the N-word to describe these black waiters. That allegation probably inspired this #PaulasBestDishes tweet: \"Old-timey black tuxedo cake, served by non-uppity black servants.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=193965215\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/06/20130620_atc_07.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But is all this Paula punning and panning likely to crumble her buttery empire — which includes not just TV shows but also cookbooks, a magazine and several restaurants?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think anyone in good conscience will have to pause in thinking about supporting her company in light of this,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://userwww.service.emory.edu/~tforman/\">Tyrone Forman\u003c/a>, a sociology professor at Emory University.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"She sells food and catering but also image,\" Forman told Lohr.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A spokeswoman for Food Network told NPR that the network will not tolerate any form of discrimination and is monitoring the situation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ultimately, Deen's fate may lie in the hands of fans, many of whom profess an emotional connection with the celebrity chef. As food anthropologist Christine DuBois \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2011/11/26/142728673/with-paula-deen-its-not-really-about-the-pie\">told The Salt\u003c/a> back in 2011, for some fans, Deen \"becomes that wonderful neighbor or that grandma who's missing in our lives.\" But if Grandma says something racially insensitive, do you stop inviting her over for dinner? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/63920/paula-deen-child-of-dixie-meet-the-internet-age","authors":["byline_bayareabites_63920"],"categories":["bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_34"],"tags":["bayareabites_10369","bayareabites_11875","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_63924","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. 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Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/possible-5gxfizEbKOJ-pbF5ASgxrs_.1400x1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. 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But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/powerpress/1440_0018_AmericanSuburb_iTunesTile_01.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. 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Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/CodeSwitchLifeKit_StationGraphics_300x300EmailGraphic.png","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. 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