Rosh Hashanah Recipes, Kosher and Gluten-Free, from The Modern Menu and Nosh on This
Recipe: Pumpkin Doughnut Holes
Cookbook Review: Home Baked Comfort by Kim Laidlaw
Christmas Morning Pumpkin Bread
Sunset Cookbook Review
Pumpkin Bread
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I was raised by an Italian-American mother who, in the 1970s, grew her own basil (because she couldn’t find any in the local grocery stores), zucchini (for those delicious flowers), and tomatoes (because the ones in the store tasted like “a potato”). My mom taught us to love all kinds of food and revere high-quality ingredients. I am now trying to follow in my mother’s footsteps and am on a mission to help my daughters become adventurous eaters who have a healthy respect for seasonal food raised locally. My daughters and I grow vegetables and go to the farmers’ market. We also love to shop at Piedmont Grocery and Trader Joe’s. When I’m not hanging out with my daughters or cooking, I like to contribute to cookbooks (including Williams-Sonoma’s Food Made Fast and Foods of the World series), work as an editor, and write about food for \u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>Denise's Kitchen\u003c/strong>. My food inspirations are M.F.K Fisher, Julia Child, and Alice Waters — three fabulous women who encompass everything I love about food.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dc444b11959eca5e5364cfc2e4358efb?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Denise Santoro Lincoln | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dc444b11959eca5e5364cfc2e4358efb?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dc444b11959eca5e5364cfc2e4358efb?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/denise-lincoln"},"stephanie-rosenbaum":{"type":"authors","id":"5038","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5038","found":true},"name":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen","firstName":"Stephanie","lastName":"Rosenbaum Klassen","slug":"stephanie-rosenbaum","email":"dixieday@aol.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen is a longtime local food writer, author, and cook. Her books include The Art of Vintage Cocktails (Egg & Dart Press), World of Doughnuts (Egg & Dart Press); Kids in the Kitchen: Fun Food (Williams Sonoma); Honey from Flower to Table (Chronicle Books) and The Astrology Cookbook: A Cosmic Guide to Feasts of Love (Manic D Press). She has studied organic farming at UCSC and holds a certificate in Ecological Horticulture from the Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems. She does frequent cooking demonstrations at local farmers’ markets and has taught food writing at Media Alliance in San Francisco and the Continuing Education program at Stanford University. She has been the lead restaurant critic for the San Francisco Bay Guardian as well as for San Francisco magazine. She has been an assistant chef at the Headlands Center for the Arts, an artists' residency program located in the Marin Headlands, and a production cook at the Marin Sun Farms Cafe in Pt Reyes Station. After some 20 years in San Francisco interspersed with stints in Oakland, Santa Cruz, Brooklyn, and Manhattan, she recently moved to Sonoma county but still writes in San Francisco several days a week.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"sjrosenbaum","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/stephanie-rosenbaum"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_68580":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_68580","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"68580","score":null,"sort":[1378222223000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"rosh-hashanah-recipes-kosher-and-gluten-free-from-the-modern-menu-and-nosh-on-this","title":"Rosh Hashanah Recipes, Kosher and Gluten-Free, from The Modern Menu and Nosh on This","publishDate":1378222223,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>L'shanah tovah! Our favorite early local apple varieties--Pink Pearls, Gravensteins--have been in the markets for only a week or two, and already it's time to dunk them in honey. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dipping apples in honey is a traditional way to celebrate \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosh_Hashanah\">Rosh Hashanah\u003c/a>, the Jewish New Year, which begins this year at sundown on Wednesday, Sept 4, and continues through Friday, Sept 6. The practice is meant to celebrate the coming of a sweet year, full of joy and prosperity. Challah, the egg bread typically served on Friday nights, is made richer and sweeter, often with raisins added, and shaped into a towering round rather than the usual oval or rectangular braid. It, too, is dipped in honey before the meal. At lunch and dinner, foods that are sour or bitter are avoided, replaced by savory dishes with a hint of sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/modernmenudisplay600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/modernmenudisplay600.jpg\" alt=\"The Modern Menu by Kim Kushner\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-69342\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For this year's holiday meals, I've found contemporary inspiration in \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/9652296325/kqedorg-20\">The Modern Menu\u003c/a> by Kim Kushner, a kosher private chef and cooking teacher. Kushner's palate comes with a cosmopolitan variety of influences, from the Mediterranean and Middle East to Asia and India, to reflect the way we eat now. After spending her childhood summers in Israel (her Moroccan-born, Israeli-raised mother was one of 10 siblings, so family meals were no small events), Ms. Kushner settled in Manhattan, trained professionally at the Institute of Culinary Education, and became a private chef and cooking teacher. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69340\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/kim-kushner-photo-for-media.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/kim-kushner-photo-for-media.jpg\" alt=\"Kim Kushner, author of The Modern Menu. Photo: Nick Lee\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69340\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kim Kushner, author of The Modern Menu. Photo: Nick Lee\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Instead of the old-fashioned, mostly Eastern and Central European-influenced standbys of Jewish-American cooking, Ms. Kushner offers lighter, brighter, and indeed more modern dishes. There's brisket, of course, but sauced with olive oil, beer, ketchup, and cranberry sauce, followed by pesto-crusted lamb chops, lemongrass halibut with cilantro and peanuts, curried cauliflower with tahini and pomegranate, cumin-spiced beet salad, and gelato \"towers\" layered with halvah and sorbet. If you don't keep kosher, you'll hardly notice anything out of the ordinary in this book, except, perhaps, the pronounced lack of bacon and the limited use of cheese, butter, and cream. (Pork and shellfish are forbidden by kosher dietary laws, which also proscribe mixing dairy and meat products in the same dish or at the same meal.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recipes are straightforward, healthy, and appealing, equally adaptable for both busy weeknights and holiday celebrations. Unfortunately, the layout and visual appeal of the book don't match up to the high quality of the recipes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rather than being divided into typical categories of appetizers, salads, entrees, and the like, the chapters are done menu by menu, with cute but unhelpful headings like \"Clever,\" \"Crisp,\" \"Vibrant,\" and \"Saucy.\" It actually took a close reading of the book to realize that each of these short chapters was actually a planned menu; good as they sound on their own, few of these big-flavor dishes seem ready to share real estate on the plate in a single meal. The \"Modern\" menu, for example, includes three dressed vegetable salads plus sesame-crusted Arctic char--what reads like a skinny-jeans ladies' lunch of three shared appetizers and one entree shorn of its deserved sides and starch. Meanwhile, \"Saucy\" veers from teriyaki-glazed sticky beef ribs and surimi-mango salad in wonton cups to a curried couscous salad and salsa-style tomatoes with cilantro and avocado. Global influences are great, but jamming too many into one meal can make for potluck confusion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there are Andrew Zuckerman's photographs, shot in unadorned, often extreme close-up against a stark white background. Muddy color reproduction means page after page of dishes depicted in unappetizingly washed-out browns, dull greens and grayish yellows. Only the red dishes, featuring brilliantly colored beets or watermelon, look appealing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Nosh-on-This.Cover600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Nosh-on-This.Cover600.jpg\" alt=\"Nosh on This. Gluten-Free Baking From a Jewish-American Kitchen. By Lisa Stander-Horel and Tim Horel. Photo:Tim Horel\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-69341\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You could see this one coming, couldn't you? The Bay Area's wholehearted adoption of all things gluten-free meets the Jewish love of baking, and the result is \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1615190864/kqedorg-20\">Nosh on This: Gluten-Free Baking from a Jewish-American Kitchen\u003c/a>, by South Bay bloggers Lisa Stander-Horel and Tim Horel. When a gluten-free book gets a glowing blurb from \u003ca href=\"http://www.betterbaking.com/\">Marcy Goldman\u003c/a>, the Canadian baker and author of my much-used favorite, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1770500030/kqedorg-20\">A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking\u003c/a>, even the non-gluten-intolerant should pay attention. These days, it's handy for all busy home bakers to have at least one decent gluten-free cookbook, since the demand and/or expectation of tasty gluten-free cupcakes (not to mention gluten-free pizza and yes, gluten-free beer) at every birthday party has risen dramatically. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69345\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Tim-Horel-and-Lisa-Stander-Horel.Author-Photo.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Tim-Horel-and-Lisa-Stander-Horel.Author-Photo.jpg\" alt=\"Tim Horel and Lisa Stander-Horel. Photo courtesy of the authors.\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69345\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tim Horel and Lisa Stander-Horel. Photo courtesy of the authors.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This husband-and-wife team, who blog at \u003ca href=\"http://www.glutenfreecanteen.com\">Gluten-Free Canteen\u003c/a> (she bakes and writes, he shoots the photographs), rely almost exclusively on their own Nosh all-purpose gluten-free flour mix, which they recommend be made from \u003ca href=\"http://www.authenticfoods.com/\">Authentic Foods\u003c/a>' superfine-milled flours, in a proportion of two parts brown rice flour to one part each white rice flour and tapioca starch. For yeast breads, they avoid crumbling by mixing minimal amounts of xanthan gum, pectin, and guar gum with \u003ca href=\"http://www.expandexglutenfree.com/\">Expandex Modified Tapioca Starch\u003c/a> to give \"that nice bendy tear we all know and miss in many gluten-free breads.\" Otherwise, though, they keep the chemistry-set demands to a minimum: this is as close to regular, homey-kitchen baking as gluten-free gets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>True to its name, the book includes lots of typically Jewish treats, although you don't need to have been bat mitzvah'd to appreciate rugelach, challah, macaroons or mandelbrot. In between the honey cake and hamantaschen are plenty of familiar, everyday sweets and pastries--pies, fruit tarts, layer cakes, cupcakes, brownies, lemon bars, eclairs, even doughnuts (lots and \u003cem>lots\u003c/em> of doughnuts). Those parents whose kids can't eat supermarket sweets should especially enjoy the recipes for homemade cookies inspired by Oreos, Mallomars, Stella D'oro Swiss Fudge Cookies, Fig Newtons, and more. And the tone is lively, fun, and just irreverent enough to make even infrequent bakers feel at home in the kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Best Brisket\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Reproduced with permission from The Modern Menu by Kim Kushner (Gefen Publishing House, 2013).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the best brisket I've tasted. Almost as great as its amazing flavor is that you can make it a month in advance and freeze it. So convenient! Note that you will need a roasting pan that can be used both on a stovetop and in the oven. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69353\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 903px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/best-brisket.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/best-brisket.png\" alt=\"Best Brisket. Photo: Andrew Zuckerman\" width=\"903\" height=\"557\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69353\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Best Brisket. Photo: Andrew Zuckerman\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 8-10\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 5-lb first-cut brisket\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 medium yellow onions, sliced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 12-ounce bottle beer\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup ketchup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 14-oz can cranberry sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup red wine\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Heat the olive oil in a large roasting pan over medium-high heat. Season the brisket generously with salt and pepper (don't be afraid to over-season). Sear the brisket in the pan until nicely browned on each side, about 4 minutes per side. Remove to a platter. Add the onions to the pan and saute until translucent, about 10 minutes. Place the brisket on the onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a large bowl, whisk together the beer, ketchup, cranberry sauce, and wine. Pour the mixture over the brisket in the pan and bring to a boil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Cover the pan with foil and bake in the oven for 1 1/2 hours. Carefully turn the brisket over using tongs. Continue baking, covered, for an additional 1 1/2 hours, until a fork easily pierces the brisket. Using tongs, transfer the brisket to a cutting board. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Place the roasting pan on the stovetop over medium-high heat. Bring the cooking juices to a boil and simmer until the liquid reduces to a thick, velvety sauce, about 10 minutes. Slice the brisket while still warm and serve with the sauce alongside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> The brisket can be made 1 day in advance. To store, let brisket and sauce cool completely, then wrap meat in foil and refrigerate. Transfer sauce to a covered container and refrigerate. To serve, slice the brisket when it is cold to prevent it from falling apart. Arrange the slices in a large baking dish and pour the sauce over them. Cover with foil and reheat in a 300ºF oven for 40 minutes. The brisket, whole or sliced, and the sauce can also be frozen for up to 4 weeks. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Pumpkin Honey Bread\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Reproduced with permission from Nosh on This: Gluten Free Baking from a Jewish-American Kitchen, by Lisa Stander-Horel and Tim Horel (The Experiment, 2013). \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pumpkin is a popular Rosh Hashanah fruit in other parts of the world, particularly in Northern Italy, and to honor that Sephardic tradition, this bread combines the best of both: honey and pumpkin. This recipe can be made as mini loaves that be given as hostess gifts or as one large loaf that would also make a fantastic breakfast bread. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69343\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/PumpkinHoneyBread.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/PumpkinHoneyBread.jpg\" alt=\"Pumpkin Honey Bread. Photo: Tim Horel\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69343\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pumpkin Honey Bread. Photo: Tim Horel\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 5 mini loaves or 1 large loaf\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Nonstick spray, for greasing.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cups (260 gms) Nosh AP GF flour (\u003cem>see note below\u003c/em>)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup (150 gms) sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 tsp baking powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 tsp cinnamon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp nutmeg, freshly grated preferred\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp ground ginger\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp ground cloves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp ground mace\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp freshly ground pepper (2 turns of the grinder)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup (125 gms) canned pure pumpkin puree\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>5 to 6 tbsp (125 gms) honey\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup (110 gms) canola oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp (50 gms) orange juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 extra-large eggs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp (5 gms) orange or tangerine zest, freshly grated\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tsp vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 tsp orange extract\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat oven to 350ºF. Grease 5 mini loaf pans or one 8 1/2\" by 4 1/2\" loaf pan lightly with nonstick spray. Place pan(s) on baking sheet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and spices. In a medium bowl, whisk together the pumpkin puree, honey, oil, orange juice, eggs, vanilla, and orange extract. Using a silicon spatula, add the wet ingredients to the dry, folding from the bottom just until no dry material remains. Scrape the mixture into the prepared pan(s) filling evenly two-thirds full.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. For mini loaf pans, bake 20 minutes and rotate the pans for even baking. Turn down the temperature to 325ºF and bake for 15 to 20 minutes more, or until a toothpick comes out with dry crumbs. For a larger loaf, bake at 350ºF for 30 minutes and rotate the pan for even baking. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes more, or until a toothpick comes out with fairly dry crumbs and the edges are dark brown and crispy. Cool in the pan(s) on a rack for 5 minutes. Transfer the loaf or loaves to a rack to cool completely. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> To make 2 cups (260 gms) Nosh AP GF flour blend, whisk together 1 cup (130 gms) superfine brown rice flour, 1/2 cup (65 gms) superfine white rice flour, and 1/2 cup (65 gms) tapioca starch. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year, comes extra-early this year. Need some inspiration for your holiday cooking? Stephanie Rosenbaum reviews two new Jewish cookbooks--one kosher, one gluten-free--and offers recipes for Best Brisket and Gluten-Free Pumpkin Honey Bread. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1378313045,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":31,"wordCount":1896},"headData":{"title":"Rosh Hashanah Recipes, Kosher and Gluten-Free, from The Modern Menu and Nosh on This | KQED","description":"Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year, comes extra-early this year. Need some inspiration for your holiday cooking? Stephanie Rosenbaum reviews two new Jewish cookbooks--one kosher, one gluten-free--and offers recipes for Best Brisket and Gluten-Free Pumpkin Honey Bread. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Rosh Hashanah Recipes, Kosher and Gluten-Free, from The Modern Menu and Nosh on This","datePublished":"2013-09-03T15:30:23.000Z","dateModified":"2013-09-04T16:44:05.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"68580 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=68580","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/09/03/rosh-hashanah-recipes-kosher-and-gluten-free-from-the-modern-menu-and-nosh-on-this/","disqusTitle":"Rosh Hashanah Recipes, Kosher and Gluten-Free, from The Modern Menu and Nosh on This","path":"/bayareabites/68580/rosh-hashanah-recipes-kosher-and-gluten-free-from-the-modern-menu-and-nosh-on-this","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>L'shanah tovah! Our favorite early local apple varieties--Pink Pearls, Gravensteins--have been in the markets for only a week or two, and already it's time to dunk them in honey. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dipping apples in honey is a traditional way to celebrate \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosh_Hashanah\">Rosh Hashanah\u003c/a>, the Jewish New Year, which begins this year at sundown on Wednesday, Sept 4, and continues through Friday, Sept 6. The practice is meant to celebrate the coming of a sweet year, full of joy and prosperity. Challah, the egg bread typically served on Friday nights, is made richer and sweeter, often with raisins added, and shaped into a towering round rather than the usual oval or rectangular braid. It, too, is dipped in honey before the meal. At lunch and dinner, foods that are sour or bitter are avoided, replaced by savory dishes with a hint of sweetness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/modernmenudisplay600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/modernmenudisplay600.jpg\" alt=\"The Modern Menu by Kim Kushner\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-69342\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For this year's holiday meals, I've found contemporary inspiration in \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/9652296325/kqedorg-20\">The Modern Menu\u003c/a> by Kim Kushner, a kosher private chef and cooking teacher. Kushner's palate comes with a cosmopolitan variety of influences, from the Mediterranean and Middle East to Asia and India, to reflect the way we eat now. After spending her childhood summers in Israel (her Moroccan-born, Israeli-raised mother was one of 10 siblings, so family meals were no small events), Ms. Kushner settled in Manhattan, trained professionally at the Institute of Culinary Education, and became a private chef and cooking teacher. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69340\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/kim-kushner-photo-for-media.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/kim-kushner-photo-for-media.jpg\" alt=\"Kim Kushner, author of The Modern Menu. Photo: Nick Lee\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69340\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kim Kushner, author of The Modern Menu. Photo: Nick Lee\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Instead of the old-fashioned, mostly Eastern and Central European-influenced standbys of Jewish-American cooking, Ms. Kushner offers lighter, brighter, and indeed more modern dishes. There's brisket, of course, but sauced with olive oil, beer, ketchup, and cranberry sauce, followed by pesto-crusted lamb chops, lemongrass halibut with cilantro and peanuts, curried cauliflower with tahini and pomegranate, cumin-spiced beet salad, and gelato \"towers\" layered with halvah and sorbet. If you don't keep kosher, you'll hardly notice anything out of the ordinary in this book, except, perhaps, the pronounced lack of bacon and the limited use of cheese, butter, and cream. (Pork and shellfish are forbidden by kosher dietary laws, which also proscribe mixing dairy and meat products in the same dish or at the same meal.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recipes are straightforward, healthy, and appealing, equally adaptable for both busy weeknights and holiday celebrations. Unfortunately, the layout and visual appeal of the book don't match up to the high quality of the recipes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rather than being divided into typical categories of appetizers, salads, entrees, and the like, the chapters are done menu by menu, with cute but unhelpful headings like \"Clever,\" \"Crisp,\" \"Vibrant,\" and \"Saucy.\" It actually took a close reading of the book to realize that each of these short chapters was actually a planned menu; good as they sound on their own, few of these big-flavor dishes seem ready to share real estate on the plate in a single meal. The \"Modern\" menu, for example, includes three dressed vegetable salads plus sesame-crusted Arctic char--what reads like a skinny-jeans ladies' lunch of three shared appetizers and one entree shorn of its deserved sides and starch. Meanwhile, \"Saucy\" veers from teriyaki-glazed sticky beef ribs and surimi-mango salad in wonton cups to a curried couscous salad and salsa-style tomatoes with cilantro and avocado. Global influences are great, but jamming too many into one meal can make for potluck confusion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there are Andrew Zuckerman's photographs, shot in unadorned, often extreme close-up against a stark white background. Muddy color reproduction means page after page of dishes depicted in unappetizingly washed-out browns, dull greens and grayish yellows. Only the red dishes, featuring brilliantly colored beets or watermelon, look appealing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Nosh-on-This.Cover600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Nosh-on-This.Cover600.jpg\" alt=\"Nosh on This. Gluten-Free Baking From a Jewish-American Kitchen. By Lisa Stander-Horel and Tim Horel. Photo:Tim Horel\" width=\"400\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-69341\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You could see this one coming, couldn't you? The Bay Area's wholehearted adoption of all things gluten-free meets the Jewish love of baking, and the result is \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1615190864/kqedorg-20\">Nosh on This: Gluten-Free Baking from a Jewish-American Kitchen\u003c/a>, by South Bay bloggers Lisa Stander-Horel and Tim Horel. When a gluten-free book gets a glowing blurb from \u003ca href=\"http://www.betterbaking.com/\">Marcy Goldman\u003c/a>, the Canadian baker and author of my much-used favorite, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1770500030/kqedorg-20\">A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking\u003c/a>, even the non-gluten-intolerant should pay attention. These days, it's handy for all busy home bakers to have at least one decent gluten-free cookbook, since the demand and/or expectation of tasty gluten-free cupcakes (not to mention gluten-free pizza and yes, gluten-free beer) at every birthday party has risen dramatically. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69345\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Tim-Horel-and-Lisa-Stander-Horel.Author-Photo.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Tim-Horel-and-Lisa-Stander-Horel.Author-Photo.jpg\" alt=\"Tim Horel and Lisa Stander-Horel. Photo courtesy of the authors.\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69345\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tim Horel and Lisa Stander-Horel. Photo courtesy of the authors.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This husband-and-wife team, who blog at \u003ca href=\"http://www.glutenfreecanteen.com\">Gluten-Free Canteen\u003c/a> (she bakes and writes, he shoots the photographs), rely almost exclusively on their own Nosh all-purpose gluten-free flour mix, which they recommend be made from \u003ca href=\"http://www.authenticfoods.com/\">Authentic Foods\u003c/a>' superfine-milled flours, in a proportion of two parts brown rice flour to one part each white rice flour and tapioca starch. For yeast breads, they avoid crumbling by mixing minimal amounts of xanthan gum, pectin, and guar gum with \u003ca href=\"http://www.expandexglutenfree.com/\">Expandex Modified Tapioca Starch\u003c/a> to give \"that nice bendy tear we all know and miss in many gluten-free breads.\" Otherwise, though, they keep the chemistry-set demands to a minimum: this is as close to regular, homey-kitchen baking as gluten-free gets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>True to its name, the book includes lots of typically Jewish treats, although you don't need to have been bat mitzvah'd to appreciate rugelach, challah, macaroons or mandelbrot. In between the honey cake and hamantaschen are plenty of familiar, everyday sweets and pastries--pies, fruit tarts, layer cakes, cupcakes, brownies, lemon bars, eclairs, even doughnuts (lots and \u003cem>lots\u003c/em> of doughnuts). Those parents whose kids can't eat supermarket sweets should especially enjoy the recipes for homemade cookies inspired by Oreos, Mallomars, Stella D'oro Swiss Fudge Cookies, Fig Newtons, and more. And the tone is lively, fun, and just irreverent enough to make even infrequent bakers feel at home in the kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Best Brisket\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Reproduced with permission from The Modern Menu by Kim Kushner (Gefen Publishing House, 2013).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the best brisket I've tasted. Almost as great as its amazing flavor is that you can make it a month in advance and freeze it. So convenient! Note that you will need a roasting pan that can be used both on a stovetop and in the oven. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69353\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 903px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/best-brisket.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/best-brisket.png\" alt=\"Best Brisket. Photo: Andrew Zuckerman\" width=\"903\" height=\"557\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69353\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Best Brisket. Photo: Andrew Zuckerman\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 8-10\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 5-lb first-cut brisket\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 medium yellow onions, sliced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 12-ounce bottle beer\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup ketchup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 14-oz can cranberry sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup red wine\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Heat the olive oil in a large roasting pan over medium-high heat. Season the brisket generously with salt and pepper (don't be afraid to over-season). Sear the brisket in the pan until nicely browned on each side, about 4 minutes per side. Remove to a platter. Add the onions to the pan and saute until translucent, about 10 minutes. Place the brisket on the onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a large bowl, whisk together the beer, ketchup, cranberry sauce, and wine. Pour the mixture over the brisket in the pan and bring to a boil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Cover the pan with foil and bake in the oven for 1 1/2 hours. Carefully turn the brisket over using tongs. Continue baking, covered, for an additional 1 1/2 hours, until a fork easily pierces the brisket. Using tongs, transfer the brisket to a cutting board. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Place the roasting pan on the stovetop over medium-high heat. Bring the cooking juices to a boil and simmer until the liquid reduces to a thick, velvety sauce, about 10 minutes. Slice the brisket while still warm and serve with the sauce alongside. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> The brisket can be made 1 day in advance. To store, let brisket and sauce cool completely, then wrap meat in foil and refrigerate. Transfer sauce to a covered container and refrigerate. To serve, slice the brisket when it is cold to prevent it from falling apart. Arrange the slices in a large baking dish and pour the sauce over them. Cover with foil and reheat in a 300ºF oven for 40 minutes. The brisket, whole or sliced, and the sauce can also be frozen for up to 4 weeks. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Pumpkin Honey Bread\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Reproduced with permission from Nosh on This: Gluten Free Baking from a Jewish-American Kitchen, by Lisa Stander-Horel and Tim Horel (The Experiment, 2013). \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pumpkin is a popular Rosh Hashanah fruit in other parts of the world, particularly in Northern Italy, and to honor that Sephardic tradition, this bread combines the best of both: honey and pumpkin. This recipe can be made as mini loaves that be given as hostess gifts or as one large loaf that would also make a fantastic breakfast bread. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69343\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/PumpkinHoneyBread.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/PumpkinHoneyBread.jpg\" alt=\"Pumpkin Honey Bread. Photo: Tim Horel\" width=\"1024\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69343\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pumpkin Honey Bread. Photo: Tim Horel\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 5 mini loaves or 1 large loaf\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Nonstick spray, for greasing.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cups (260 gms) Nosh AP GF flour (\u003cem>see note below\u003c/em>)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup (150 gms) sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 tsp baking powder\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 tsp cinnamon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp nutmeg, freshly grated preferred\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp ground ginger\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp ground cloves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp ground mace\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 tsp freshly ground pepper (2 turns of the grinder)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup (125 gms) canned pure pumpkin puree\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>5 to 6 tbsp (125 gms) honey\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup (110 gms) canola oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp (50 gms) orange juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 extra-large eggs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp (5 gms) orange or tangerine zest, freshly grated\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tsp vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 tsp orange extract\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Preheat oven to 350ºF. Grease 5 mini loaf pans or one 8 1/2\" by 4 1/2\" loaf pan lightly with nonstick spray. Place pan(s) on baking sheet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and spices. In a medium bowl, whisk together the pumpkin puree, honey, oil, orange juice, eggs, vanilla, and orange extract. Using a silicon spatula, add the wet ingredients to the dry, folding from the bottom just until no dry material remains. Scrape the mixture into the prepared pan(s) filling evenly two-thirds full.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. For mini loaf pans, bake 20 minutes and rotate the pans for even baking. Turn down the temperature to 325ºF and bake for 15 to 20 minutes more, or until a toothpick comes out with dry crumbs. For a larger loaf, bake at 350ºF for 30 minutes and rotate the pan for even baking. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes more, or until a toothpick comes out with fairly dry crumbs and the edges are dark brown and crispy. Cool in the pan(s) on a rack for 5 minutes. Transfer the loaf or loaves to a rack to cool completely. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> To make 2 cups (260 gms) Nosh AP GF flour blend, whisk together 1 cup (130 gms) superfine brown rice flour, 1/2 cup (65 gms) superfine white rice flour, and 1/2 cup (65 gms) tapioca starch. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/68580/rosh-hashanah-recipes-kosher-and-gluten-free-from-the-modern-menu-and-nosh-on-this","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_12300","bayareabites_138","bayareabites_71","bayareabites_9766","bayareabites_2042","bayareabites_1510","bayareabites_8373"],"featImg":"bayareabites_69348","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_49054":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_49054","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"49054","score":null,"sort":[1350722779000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"pumpkin-doughnut-holes","title":"Recipe: Pumpkin Doughnut Holes","publishDate":1350722779,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Halloween Recipes | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":14959,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pumpkin-donutholes1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pumpkin-donutholes560.jpg\" alt=\"Pumpkin Donut Holes\" title=\"Pumpkin Donut Holes\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50248\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Happy autumn! Happy Halloween! Pumpkin patches are open for business, black cats, ghosts, and sugar skulls are decorating every shop window, and crazily colorful winter squash are spilling their stripy, curvy glory across produce stands and farmers' market tables everywhere. Being a Libra/Scorpio with a late-October birthday, I've always had an extra-special--all right, downright personal--appreciation for the seasonal joys of this time of year. Apples fresh off the tree, cider pressing, crisp air and deep blue skies, the vivid sunset hues of persimmons, pomegranates, eggplants, and peppers at the market, the slippery squish of pumpkin seeds scraped from a jack o' lantern: somehow it all links up with the promise of birthday cake, presents, and the imminent delight of dressing up for Halloween.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But you don't have to have a October birthday (even though it \u003cem>is\u003c/em> the best time to born, as all your Libra/Scorpio buddies will agree) to love this time of year, especially now that our last-gasp heat wave has given way to cooler days and the promise of rain. It's soup weather, sweater weather, pumpkin-latte weather, and yes, homemade doughnut weather! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area has had a renaissance of doughnut vendors of late, what with the continued success of \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/dynamodonut\">Dynamo Donut and Coffee\u003c/a> and the recent Oakland openings of both \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/donutsavant\">Donut Savant\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/DoughnutDolly\">Doughnut Dolly\u003c/a>. Having just finished writing a doughnut cookbook, \"World of Doughnuts,\" which will be published in spring 2013, I've had doughnuts on my mind (and filling my kitchen) lately, and I can tell you, making doughnuts at home is \u003cem>no big deal.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, deep-frying, eeek! But you know what you need to fry? Not much! A cast-iron pot that's at least 4 inches deep (a Dutch oven is ideal), a couple quarts of vegetable oil, and a deep-frying or candy thermometer (any kind, as long as it's easy to read and registers up to 400°F). And then, a slotted spoon to take out the doughnuts, a baking sheet lined with paper towels, and a bunch of doughnut-hungry friends, since anything fried is at its best when it's fresh. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That pot of oil is not going to spontaneously combust, as long as you use general kitchen common sense. Never leave the room with oil heating on the stove. Depending on your stove, it can take 10-12 minutes to bring a pot of oil up to the correct temperature. Check the oil's temperature frequently with your thermometer, and adjust the heat accordingly. Just washed sticky batter off your hands? Make sure your hands are absolutely dry before you get near that hot oil, as even a drop of water can make it sputter and spit in your face. Once you start frying, it shouldn't take longer than 2 to 3 minutes to finish a batch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These pumpkin doughnut holes taste like fall to me, especially with some cold or hot mulled cider to wash them down. (Look for Rainbow Orchards' delicious, freshly pressed apple cider at farmers' markets around the Bay Area.) While you could use canned pumpkin in these, you'll have more fun and get a tastier result using pumpkin or winter squash you roast and mash yourself. Butternut and Sunshine kabocha squash are my favorites, but any dense-fleshed, flavorful squash will do. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/squash1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/squash560.jpg\" alt=\"squash\" title=\"squash\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50256\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut the squash in half lengthwise, then scrape out any strings and seeds. Place the squash face down on a lightly oiled or parchment- or Silpat-lined baking sheet and bake at 350°F for approximately 45-60 minutes, until the squash is very soft. When squash is cool enough to handle, scrape out flesh, discarding skin. Pile squash into a colander or sieve and let any excess liquid drain out for an hour or so. Some squash is really wet; others, not at all. It really depends on the squash, its growing conditions, and how long it's been off the vine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once squash has drained, it's time to make it smooth. The best way to do this is by cranking it through the fine disk of a food mill. Unlike a food processor, which just pulverizes everything, the food mill catches and separates any errant seeds, skin, and strings while quickly turning your squash into a velvety puree. You can also push your squash through a metal mesh strainer with a wooden spoon. Same effect, but it takes longer, and mashing, pushing, and scraping is less satisfying than cranking. Of course, you can just grab a potato masher or a wooden spoon and beat it smooth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Any extra can go into soup, or be used as a base for \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/pumpkin-bread/\">pumpkin bread\u003c/a>. I've been throwing a few spoonfuls into my buckwheat pancake batter all week. Covered and refrigerated, your squash puree should last at least a week. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/squash-and-donutholes1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/squash-and-donutholes560.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"squash-and-donutholes560\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50258\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pumpkin Doughnut Holes\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI've suggested a variety of flours here; you can use regular all-purpose white flour, a combination of white flour and whole-wheat pastry flour, or even a wheat-free mixture of oat and barley flours. I haven't tested this recipe with any gluten-free flour mixes, but I imagine they would probably work quite well. (If you do try this recipe using gluten-free flour, please post your feedback in the comments below.) You can also substitute 2 teaspoons of pumpkin pie spice for the mixed spices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 15 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 10 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 25 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> About 36 doughnut holes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 cups all-purpose flour; 1 cup all-purpose flour and 1 cup whole wheat pastry flour, OR 1 cup oat flour and 1 cup barley flour\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons baking powder\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon ground cloves\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon ground ginger\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons butter\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup sugar\u003cbr>\n1 large egg\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup plain yogurt or buttermilk\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup roasted and mashed pumpkin or winter squash\u003cbr>\nVegetable oil for frying\u003cbr>\nCinnamon sugar for dusting (1/2 cup sugar mixed with 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. In a Dutch oven or other deep, heavy pot, heat 2 to 3 inches of oil over medium-high heat to 365°F on a candy or deep-frying thermometer. Pour the cinnamon sugar into a wide, shallow bowl or brown paper lunch bag. Line a baking sheet with two layers of paper towels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. While oil is heating, sift or whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and spices into a large bowl. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Using a hand-held electric mixer or stand mixer, cream the butter and sugar. Add the egg, buttermilk, vanilla, and pumpkin, beating until smooth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Add the flour mixture and mix gently on low speed until just combined, stopping once or twice to scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Dip two metal spoons into the hot oil. Scoop up a tablespoon of dough with one spoon, pushing it off into the hot oil with the other spoon. Continue to drop spoonfuls of dough into the hot oil in batches, being careful not to crowd the pan. Fry for 60 to 90 seconds per side, until golden brown and cooked through. Break open a “test doughnut” from the first batch to make sure the doughnuts are cooking correctly; adjust the heat level of the oil as needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the doughnut holes to the paper towels to drain. Roll the warm doughnut holes in the cinnamon sugar, or add a few doughnut holes to the bag and shake until covered. Repeat with remaining doughnuts. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Get over your fear of frying and whip up a Halloween-ready batch of these easy pumpkin doughnut holes. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1550268698,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":23,"wordCount":1301},"headData":{"title":"Recipe: Pumpkin Doughnut Holes | KQED","description":"Get over your fear of frying and whip up a Halloween-ready batch of these easy pumpkin doughnut holes. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Recipe: Pumpkin Doughnut Holes","datePublished":"2012-10-20T08:46:19.000Z","dateModified":"2019-02-15T22:11:38.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"49054 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=49054","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/20/pumpkin-doughnut-holes/","disqusTitle":"Recipe: Pumpkin Doughnut Holes","path":"/bayareabites/49054/pumpkin-doughnut-holes","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pumpkin-donutholes1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pumpkin-donutholes560.jpg\" alt=\"Pumpkin Donut Holes\" title=\"Pumpkin Donut Holes\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50248\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Happy autumn! Happy Halloween! Pumpkin patches are open for business, black cats, ghosts, and sugar skulls are decorating every shop window, and crazily colorful winter squash are spilling their stripy, curvy glory across produce stands and farmers' market tables everywhere. Being a Libra/Scorpio with a late-October birthday, I've always had an extra-special--all right, downright personal--appreciation for the seasonal joys of this time of year. Apples fresh off the tree, cider pressing, crisp air and deep blue skies, the vivid sunset hues of persimmons, pomegranates, eggplants, and peppers at the market, the slippery squish of pumpkin seeds scraped from a jack o' lantern: somehow it all links up with the promise of birthday cake, presents, and the imminent delight of dressing up for Halloween.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But you don't have to have a October birthday (even though it \u003cem>is\u003c/em> the best time to born, as all your Libra/Scorpio buddies will agree) to love this time of year, especially now that our last-gasp heat wave has given way to cooler days and the promise of rain. It's soup weather, sweater weather, pumpkin-latte weather, and yes, homemade doughnut weather! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area has had a renaissance of doughnut vendors of late, what with the continued success of \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/dynamodonut\">Dynamo Donut and Coffee\u003c/a> and the recent Oakland openings of both \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/donutsavant\">Donut Savant\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/DoughnutDolly\">Doughnut Dolly\u003c/a>. Having just finished writing a doughnut cookbook, \"World of Doughnuts,\" which will be published in spring 2013, I've had doughnuts on my mind (and filling my kitchen) lately, and I can tell you, making doughnuts at home is \u003cem>no big deal.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, deep-frying, eeek! But you know what you need to fry? Not much! A cast-iron pot that's at least 4 inches deep (a Dutch oven is ideal), a couple quarts of vegetable oil, and a deep-frying or candy thermometer (any kind, as long as it's easy to read and registers up to 400°F). And then, a slotted spoon to take out the doughnuts, a baking sheet lined with paper towels, and a bunch of doughnut-hungry friends, since anything fried is at its best when it's fresh. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That pot of oil is not going to spontaneously combust, as long as you use general kitchen common sense. Never leave the room with oil heating on the stove. Depending on your stove, it can take 10-12 minutes to bring a pot of oil up to the correct temperature. Check the oil's temperature frequently with your thermometer, and adjust the heat accordingly. Just washed sticky batter off your hands? Make sure your hands are absolutely dry before you get near that hot oil, as even a drop of water can make it sputter and spit in your face. Once you start frying, it shouldn't take longer than 2 to 3 minutes to finish a batch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These pumpkin doughnut holes taste like fall to me, especially with some cold or hot mulled cider to wash them down. (Look for Rainbow Orchards' delicious, freshly pressed apple cider at farmers' markets around the Bay Area.) While you could use canned pumpkin in these, you'll have more fun and get a tastier result using pumpkin or winter squash you roast and mash yourself. Butternut and Sunshine kabocha squash are my favorites, but any dense-fleshed, flavorful squash will do. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/squash1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/squash560.jpg\" alt=\"squash\" title=\"squash\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50256\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut the squash in half lengthwise, then scrape out any strings and seeds. Place the squash face down on a lightly oiled or parchment- or Silpat-lined baking sheet and bake at 350°F for approximately 45-60 minutes, until the squash is very soft. When squash is cool enough to handle, scrape out flesh, discarding skin. Pile squash into a colander or sieve and let any excess liquid drain out for an hour or so. Some squash is really wet; others, not at all. It really depends on the squash, its growing conditions, and how long it's been off the vine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once squash has drained, it's time to make it smooth. The best way to do this is by cranking it through the fine disk of a food mill. Unlike a food processor, which just pulverizes everything, the food mill catches and separates any errant seeds, skin, and strings while quickly turning your squash into a velvety puree. You can also push your squash through a metal mesh strainer with a wooden spoon. Same effect, but it takes longer, and mashing, pushing, and scraping is less satisfying than cranking. Of course, you can just grab a potato masher or a wooden spoon and beat it smooth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Any extra can go into soup, or be used as a base for \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/pumpkin-bread/\">pumpkin bread\u003c/a>. I've been throwing a few spoonfuls into my buckwheat pancake batter all week. Covered and refrigerated, your squash puree should last at least a week. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/squash-and-donutholes1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/squash-and-donutholes560.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"squash-and-donutholes560\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50258\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pumpkin Doughnut Holes\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI've suggested a variety of flours here; you can use regular all-purpose white flour, a combination of white flour and whole-wheat pastry flour, or even a wheat-free mixture of oat and barley flours. I haven't tested this recipe with any gluten-free flour mixes, but I imagine they would probably work quite well. (If you do try this recipe using gluten-free flour, please post your feedback in the comments below.) You can also substitute 2 teaspoons of pumpkin pie spice for the mixed spices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 15 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 10 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 25 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> About 36 doughnut holes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 cups all-purpose flour; 1 cup all-purpose flour and 1 cup whole wheat pastry flour, OR 1 cup oat flour and 1 cup barley flour\u003cbr>\n2 teaspoons baking powder\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon ground cloves\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon ground ginger\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons butter\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup sugar\u003cbr>\n1 large egg\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup plain yogurt or buttermilk\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup roasted and mashed pumpkin or winter squash\u003cbr>\nVegetable oil for frying\u003cbr>\nCinnamon sugar for dusting (1/2 cup sugar mixed with 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. In a Dutch oven or other deep, heavy pot, heat 2 to 3 inches of oil over medium-high heat to 365°F on a candy or deep-frying thermometer. Pour the cinnamon sugar into a wide, shallow bowl or brown paper lunch bag. Line a baking sheet with two layers of paper towels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. While oil is heating, sift or whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and spices into a large bowl. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Using a hand-held electric mixer or stand mixer, cream the butter and sugar. Add the egg, buttermilk, vanilla, and pumpkin, beating until smooth. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Add the flour mixture and mix gently on low speed until just combined, stopping once or twice to scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Dip two metal spoons into the hot oil. Scoop up a tablespoon of dough with one spoon, pushing it off into the hot oil with the other spoon. Continue to drop spoonfuls of dough into the hot oil in batches, being careful not to crowd the pan. Fry for 60 to 90 seconds per side, until golden brown and cooked through. Break open a “test doughnut” from the first batch to make sure the doughnuts are cooking correctly; adjust the heat level of the oil as needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the doughnut holes to the paper towels to drain. Roll the warm doughnut holes in the cinnamon sugar, or add a few doughnut holes to the bag and shake until covered. Repeat with remaining doughnuts. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/49054/pumpkin-doughnut-holes","authors":["5038"],"series":["bayareabites_14959"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_464","bayareabites_10808","bayareabites_1820","bayareabites_131","bayareabites_16285","bayareabites_1511","bayareabites_1510","bayareabites_10809","bayareabites_14738","bayareabites_16284"],"featImg":"bayareabites_50248","label":"bayareabites_14959"},"bayareabites_38315":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_38315","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"38315","score":null,"sort":[1328630454000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"cookbook-review-home-baked-comfort-by-kim-laidlaw","title":"Cookbook Review: Home Baked Comfort by Kim Laidlaw","publishDate":1328630454,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1616282002/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/HBC-300.jpg\" alt=\"Home Baked Comfort by Kim Laidlaw\" title=\"Home Baked Comfort by Kim Laidlaw\" width=\"300\" height=\"351\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-38612\">\u003c/a>The buttery-sweet smell of morning muffins, fresh from the oven. A lavishly frosted kid's birthday cake, awaiting its candles. A sticky spoonful of chocolate-chip cookie dough snuck from the bowl. What can be more comforting coming out of the kitchen than home-baked treats? \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1616282002/kqedorg-20\">Home Baked Comfort\u003c/a>, Williams-Sonoma's latest addition into its line of comfort-food cookbooks, is very aptly named.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Written by longtime cookbook editor and Bay Area Bites contributor \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/kim-laidlaw/\">Kim Laidlaw\u003c/a>, \u003cem>Home Baked Comfort\u003c/em> jettisons the informative but anonymous tone typical to many Williams-Sonoma books for a warmer, more personal voice. Many of Laidlaw's recipes are inspired by family traditions or by cooking with friends, interspersed with photos and recipes from well-loved neighborhood bakeries, including our own \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com\">Tartine\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are also a few recipes from popular home baker-bloggers, like Deb Perelman of \u003ca href=\"http://www.smittenkitchen.com\" title=\"Smitten Kitchen\">Smitten Kitchen\u003c/a> and Aran Goyoaga of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cannellevanille.com/\">Cannelle et Vanille\u003c/a>. The short interviews with the owners of local bakeries are pithy and funny, and the brightly charming photos of each spot made me want to run right out and get a Banana Puddin' cupcake at \u003ca href=\"http://www.sugarmamasbakeshop.com\">Sugar Mama's Bakeshop\u003c/a> in Austin, Texas or a purple-studded, sugar-topped blueberry muffin at \u003ca href=\"http://www.huckleberrycafe.com\">Huckleberry Cafe & Bakery\u003c/a> in Santa Monica. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beautifully photographed by baker Eric Wolfinger (who also photographed the striking \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0811870413/kqedorg-20\">Tartine Bread\u003c/a>), the book looks both scrumptious and modern, neither cutesy-cozy nor bare-plate stark. Wolfinger, a baker himself, made every recipe he photographed, providing yet another round of useful recipe testing. Recipe pages without photographs are given a parchment-paper wash, a bit of visual interest presumably meant to evoke a family recipe scribbled on a time-yellowed slip of paper. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/kim-laidlaw-300.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/kim-laidlaw-300.jpg\" alt=\"Kim Laidlaw author of Home Baked Comfort. Photo by Eric Wolfinger\" title=\"Kim Laidlaw author of Home Baked Comfort. Photo by Eric Wolfinger\" width=\"300\" height=\"366\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-38615\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing's too daunting; nothing requires much more than the usual home-kitchen setup of cake pans, pie pans, and baking sheets. (Do pick up some buttermilk, sour cream, and a microplane citrus zester before you start, however.) And, like the pictures, the recipes are flavorful and engaging; you could serve them at a bake sale or a dinner party and earn the same enraptured, nothing-but-crumbs-on-the-plate reaction. As an dedicated home baker myself, I caught up with Laidlaw at her home in Noe Valley on the eve of her book's release to find out how it all came together. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First of all, how did Laidlaw go from editor to writer? Last year, as part of her job as an editor at \u003ca href=\"http://www.weldonowen.com/\">Weldon Owen\u003c/a>, a San Francisco-based publisher which creates Williams-Sonoma's branded books in addition to other titles, Laidlaw was tasked with finding a writer/recipe developer for a planned home-baking book. (Full disclosure: As a freelance writer and editor, I have worked with Laidlaw and others at Weldon Owen professionally over the years.) The more she thought about the project, the more she realized, \"This is what I do!\" It wasn't just that she was a lifelong home baker; before becoming a full-time cookbook editor, she'd graduated from \u003ca href=\"http://www.chefs.edu/san-francisco\">CCA\u003c/a>'s Baking and Pastry program, then worked as a baker at Oakland's \u003ca href=\"http://www.lafarine.com\">La Farine\u003c/a> bakery. She knew, having edited dozens of Williams-Sonoma cookbooks, just how important it was to produce the sort of meticulously tested, foolproof recipes that the brand was known for, and felt sure that she had both the baking and writing chops to do it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But just being an employee didn't give her an automatic in; like any other potential author, she had to present a detailed proposal outlining her recipes, her approach, and why she'd be the best choice for the job. It worked, and with a pressing deadline looming, she got busy whipping up layer cakes and butterscotch puddings in her cramped home kitchen, where there was no Viking stove or Sub-Zero fridge, just the usual generic appliances of any apartment rental. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Writing the book happened to coincide with Laidlaw's pregnancy--which translated into a mostly ravenous appetite. Laidlaw laughed when asked about the rapturous headnotes describing each recipe. \"I wrote it while I was pregnant! I would find myself eating half the batch of scones,\" in one sitting, and everything she made tasted like the best thing ever. Her husband, who had recently started a new job, earned instant popularity around the office as the guy with the recipe-testing wife; \"crazy amounts\" of tester cookies, brownies, cakes and more went with him to work almost daily. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, with the book just out, Laidlaw is still baking, only this time with her young daughter Poppy tucked in a carrier across her chest. \"We bake together. She loves it!\" Laidlaw said, and it's true: during my visit, Poppy was giggling and smiling, her eyes following her mother's deft movements as Laidlaw whisked together the batter for \u003cstrong>Pumpkin-Brandy Bread,\u003c/strong> (\u003cem>see recipe below\u003c/em>) a specialty of her own mother's. The finished product, still hot out of the oven, wasn't overly boozy, but it did have a wonderfully grown-up whiff of brandy to it, making it perfect for afternoon tea, especially during the holidays. Her trick for cooking while parenting? \"I cook everything in tiny steps, so I can stop anytime.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of her favorite recipes in the book are ones that come from her own family traditions, like the Christmas Breakfast Pie, something that she, her mother, and her brother make every Christmas, no matter where they are, and the Beer Rolls, originally made with just Bisquick and beer. \"My brother and I thought that was so cool, baking with beer!\" she said, which led her to develop a similar, from-scratch recipe that captured the appeal of the original. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She finds her inspiration in things she sees in bakeries, in restaurants, in flavor combinations she imagines. \"I'm kind of a lemon freak. There's a crazy amount of citrus zest in the book, it's kind of obnoxious!\" As for her favorite thing to bake, \"definitely pies and galettes,\" although she especially admires bread bakers. \"It's a real skill that can be kind of hard to do in a home kitchen. But it's so basic and satisfying.\" Flipping through the recipes, it's clear that Laidlaw has a taste for fruit; there are wonderful, not-too-sweet fruit desserts in every chapter. \u003cstrong>Pear Custard Tart\u003c/strong> (\u003cem>see recipe below\u003c/em>), inspired by a old Julia Child recipe, comes out delectably elegant, and the vanilla-poached pears are good enough to eat on their own. Laidlaw prefers a hint of salt to too much sweetness, and few recipes seem overly gooey or rich. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's an easy, appealing book, reflecting Laidlaw's own opinion, based in experience as both a professional and a home baker, that baking isn't that hard, and that its reputation as the stern, inflexible taskmistress of the kitchen is ill-deserved. Once you know the basic chemistry of baking and have a feel for how different baked goods work, you can mess around with your recipes, more than you might think. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The whole point of the book is to get more people baking, get them to see that it's not so daunting, make it approachable and fun.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>That said, are there common pitfalls that new bakers might avoid?\u003c/strong> \n\u003cli>\"People overwork pastry and biscuit dough too much, then they get frustrated,\" when it doesn't turn out as flaky or fluffy as they hoped.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In making quick breads, like muffins, that are raised with baking powder and/or baking soda, \"some people mix the batter and then just let it sit,\" rather than getting it into the oven, pronto. Once the batter is mixed, the chemical leavening process starts, and so delaying the baking process can produce a flat result.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>And finally, people frequently overbake, paying more attention to the minutes specified in the recipe than to what their senses tell them about the finished product.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>It all comes down to not following recipes too rigidly.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I want people to relax and enjoy it, be more flexible. Not all ingredients are the same, and things change depending on how cold, hot, or wet the day is. Just relax! I think it's the best thing you can do for somebody, to bake something for them.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/pear-custard-tart-500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/pear-custard-tart-500.jpg\" alt=\"Pear-Custard Tart. Photo by Eric Wolfinger\" title=\"Pear-Custard Tart. Photo by Eric Wolfinger\" width=\"500\" height=\"588\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-38620\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Pear-Custard Tart\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe first recipe from Julia Child that I ever made was her French custard apple tart, which I still love to this day. This delicately flavored tart, filled with vanilla-poached pears and brandy-spiked custard and topped with sugary toasted almonds, is an ode to her and that memorable dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFlaky Pie Dough for single crust (see recipe below)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>for the poached pears\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n3⁄4 cup (6 oz⁄185 g) Sugar\u003cbr>\n3 ripe but firm pears, preferably Bosc, peeled, quartered, and cored\u003cbr>\nPeel of 1 orange, removed in strips with a vegetable peeler\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 vanilla bean\u003cbr>\n1 large egg\u003cbr>\n1⁄4 cup (2 oz⁄60 g) sugar plus 1 tbsp\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 cup (4 fl oz⁄125 ml) heavy cream\u003cbr>\n1 tsp pure vanilla extract or 2 tbsp brandy (optional)\u003cbr>\nPinch of kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1⁄4 cup (1 oz⁄30 g) sliced almonds, lightly toasted \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>makes one 10-inch (25-cm) tart\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPrepare the flaky pie dough and chill as directed. (see recipe below)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To poach the pears, cut a circle of parchment paper that will fit in a medium saucepan. Cut a small circle in the middle of the parchment. In the saucepan, bring 3 cups (24 fl oz/750 ml) water and the sugar to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and add the pears and orange peel. Split the vanilla bean and scrape out the seeds with the back of a paring knife; add the pod and seeds to the saucepan. Lay the parchment in the saucepan to submerge the pears. Adjust the heat so that the liquid simmers gently and poach the pears until just tender, about 15 minutes. Let cool in the poaching liquid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400°F (200°C). On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough to a circle about 13 inches (33 cm) in diameter. Transfer the dough to a 10-inch (25-cm) tart pan with a removable bottom and ease into the pan. Trim away any excess dough. Line the tart shell with foil and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake until the crust is dried out and just starting to color a bit, about 20 minutes. Remove the foil and weights. Let cool. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut each pear quarter lengthwise into 4 slices, then lay most of the pear slices in the crust in an overlapping circle close to the rim. Use the remaining slices to fill the middle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a bowl, beat together the egg and the 1⁄4 cup sugar until thick and pale. Beat in the flour and then the cream, vanilla, if using, and salt. Pour evenly over the pears. Bake until the custard starts to puff up, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle the toasted almonds and remaining 1 tablespoon sugar over the top of the tart. Continue to bake until the custard is set and lightly browned, 15–20 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack until warm or room temperature before slicing and serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Baker's Note:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nTo turn this into an apple tart, gently sauté 3 peeled, cored, and sliced apples in 1 tablespoon butter until they just start to become tender. Spread evenly in the partially baked crust, pour over the custard, and proceed with the recipe from there.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Flaky Pie Dough for Single Crust\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 1⁄4 cups (61⁄2 oz⁄200 g) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1⁄4 tsp kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 tsp sugar (optional; omit if making a savory dish)\u003cbr>\n7 tbsp (31⁄2 oz⁄105 g) very cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes\u003cbr>\n5 tbsp (3 fl oz⁄80 ml) ice water, plus more if needed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>makes enough for one 9-inch (23-cm) pie or tart\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIn the bowl of a food processor, stir together the flour, salt, and sugar, if using. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sprinkle the butter over the top and pulse for a few seconds, or just until the butter is slightly broken up into the flour but still in visible pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Evenly sprinkle the water over the flour mixture, then process just until the mixture starts to come together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dump the dough into a large lock-top plastic bag, and press into a flat disk. Refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes or up to 1 day, or freeze for up to 1 month.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Pumpkin Brandy Bread\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGrowing up, I remember my mom baking this bread in metal coffee cans and how I loved the funny round shape. This recipe calls for a lot of brandy, more than you might be comfortable with, but it is honestly the best pumpkin bread I have ever tasted. You can cut the brandy in half if you want.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 large eggs\u003cbr>\n2 cups (1 lb⁄500 g) granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n1 cup (7 oz⁄220 g) firmly packed light brown sugar\u003cbr>\n1 cup (8 fl oz⁄250 ml) canola oil\u003cbr>\n2⁄3 cup (5 fl oz⁄160 ml) brandy\u003cbr>\n1 can (15 oz⁄470 g) pumpkin puree\u003cbr>\n3 1⁄2 cups (171⁄2 oz⁄545 g) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n2 tsp baking soda\u003cbr>\n1 1⁄2 tbsp pumpkin pie spice\u003cbr>\n1 tsp kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 cup (2 oz⁄60 g) chopped pecans or walnuts, lightly toasted (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>makes 2 loaves\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPosition a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350°F (180°C). Generously butter two 9-by-5-inch (23-by-13-cm) loaf pans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugars. Add the oil, brandy, and pumpkin and whisk to combine. In another bowl, sift together the flour, baking soda, pumpkin pie spice, and salt. Add to the pumpkin mixture along with the nuts, if using, and stir to combine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Divide the batter between the prepared pans and bake until richly golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center of a loaf comes out clean, about 50 minutes. Let cool slightly in the pans, then turn the loaves out onto a wire rack to cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Baker's Note:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBaked in smaller, individual-sized loaf pans, this decadent bread makes excellent mini gifts during the holidays. Divide the batter between the pans. The baking time might vary depending on the size of the pans. Once the baked loaves have cooled, wrap each one in colorful cellophane, tie a ribbon around it, and bring on the good cheer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipes and Photos appears with permission from Home Baked Comfort. Photographs by Eric Wolfinger Copyright 2011 by Weldon Owen Inc. and Williams-Sonoma, Inc.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Home Baked Comfort, Williams-Sonoma's latest baking book, promises to get you baking with over a hundred recipes for delectable, homemade treats.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1328635424,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":44,"wordCount":2536},"headData":{"title":"Cookbook Review: Home Baked Comfort by Kim Laidlaw | KQED","description":"Home Baked Comfort, Williams-Sonoma's latest baking book, promises to get you baking with over a hundred recipes for delectable, homemade treats.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Cookbook Review: Home Baked Comfort by Kim Laidlaw","datePublished":"2012-02-07T16:00:54.000Z","dateModified":"2012-02-07T17:23:44.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"38315 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=38315","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/02/07/cookbook-review-home-baked-comfort-by-kim-laidlaw/","disqusTitle":"Cookbook Review: Home Baked Comfort by Kim Laidlaw","path":"/bayareabites/38315/cookbook-review-home-baked-comfort-by-kim-laidlaw","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1616282002/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/HBC-300.jpg\" alt=\"Home Baked Comfort by Kim Laidlaw\" title=\"Home Baked Comfort by Kim Laidlaw\" width=\"300\" height=\"351\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-38612\">\u003c/a>The buttery-sweet smell of morning muffins, fresh from the oven. A lavishly frosted kid's birthday cake, awaiting its candles. A sticky spoonful of chocolate-chip cookie dough snuck from the bowl. What can be more comforting coming out of the kitchen than home-baked treats? \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1616282002/kqedorg-20\">Home Baked Comfort\u003c/a>, Williams-Sonoma's latest addition into its line of comfort-food cookbooks, is very aptly named.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Written by longtime cookbook editor and Bay Area Bites contributor \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/kim-laidlaw/\">Kim Laidlaw\u003c/a>, \u003cem>Home Baked Comfort\u003c/em> jettisons the informative but anonymous tone typical to many Williams-Sonoma books for a warmer, more personal voice. Many of Laidlaw's recipes are inspired by family traditions or by cooking with friends, interspersed with photos and recipes from well-loved neighborhood bakeries, including our own \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com\">Tartine\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are also a few recipes from popular home baker-bloggers, like Deb Perelman of \u003ca href=\"http://www.smittenkitchen.com\" title=\"Smitten Kitchen\">Smitten Kitchen\u003c/a> and Aran Goyoaga of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cannellevanille.com/\">Cannelle et Vanille\u003c/a>. The short interviews with the owners of local bakeries are pithy and funny, and the brightly charming photos of each spot made me want to run right out and get a Banana Puddin' cupcake at \u003ca href=\"http://www.sugarmamasbakeshop.com\">Sugar Mama's Bakeshop\u003c/a> in Austin, Texas or a purple-studded, sugar-topped blueberry muffin at \u003ca href=\"http://www.huckleberrycafe.com\">Huckleberry Cafe & Bakery\u003c/a> in Santa Monica. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beautifully photographed by baker Eric Wolfinger (who also photographed the striking \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0811870413/kqedorg-20\">Tartine Bread\u003c/a>), the book looks both scrumptious and modern, neither cutesy-cozy nor bare-plate stark. Wolfinger, a baker himself, made every recipe he photographed, providing yet another round of useful recipe testing. Recipe pages without photographs are given a parchment-paper wash, a bit of visual interest presumably meant to evoke a family recipe scribbled on a time-yellowed slip of paper. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/kim-laidlaw-300.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/kim-laidlaw-300.jpg\" alt=\"Kim Laidlaw author of Home Baked Comfort. Photo by Eric Wolfinger\" title=\"Kim Laidlaw author of Home Baked Comfort. Photo by Eric Wolfinger\" width=\"300\" height=\"366\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-38615\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing's too daunting; nothing requires much more than the usual home-kitchen setup of cake pans, pie pans, and baking sheets. (Do pick up some buttermilk, sour cream, and a microplane citrus zester before you start, however.) And, like the pictures, the recipes are flavorful and engaging; you could serve them at a bake sale or a dinner party and earn the same enraptured, nothing-but-crumbs-on-the-plate reaction. As an dedicated home baker myself, I caught up with Laidlaw at her home in Noe Valley on the eve of her book's release to find out how it all came together. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First of all, how did Laidlaw go from editor to writer? Last year, as part of her job as an editor at \u003ca href=\"http://www.weldonowen.com/\">Weldon Owen\u003c/a>, a San Francisco-based publisher which creates Williams-Sonoma's branded books in addition to other titles, Laidlaw was tasked with finding a writer/recipe developer for a planned home-baking book. (Full disclosure: As a freelance writer and editor, I have worked with Laidlaw and others at Weldon Owen professionally over the years.) The more she thought about the project, the more she realized, \"This is what I do!\" It wasn't just that she was a lifelong home baker; before becoming a full-time cookbook editor, she'd graduated from \u003ca href=\"http://www.chefs.edu/san-francisco\">CCA\u003c/a>'s Baking and Pastry program, then worked as a baker at Oakland's \u003ca href=\"http://www.lafarine.com\">La Farine\u003c/a> bakery. She knew, having edited dozens of Williams-Sonoma cookbooks, just how important it was to produce the sort of meticulously tested, foolproof recipes that the brand was known for, and felt sure that she had both the baking and writing chops to do it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But just being an employee didn't give her an automatic in; like any other potential author, she had to present a detailed proposal outlining her recipes, her approach, and why she'd be the best choice for the job. It worked, and with a pressing deadline looming, she got busy whipping up layer cakes and butterscotch puddings in her cramped home kitchen, where there was no Viking stove or Sub-Zero fridge, just the usual generic appliances of any apartment rental. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Writing the book happened to coincide with Laidlaw's pregnancy--which translated into a mostly ravenous appetite. Laidlaw laughed when asked about the rapturous headnotes describing each recipe. \"I wrote it while I was pregnant! I would find myself eating half the batch of scones,\" in one sitting, and everything she made tasted like the best thing ever. Her husband, who had recently started a new job, earned instant popularity around the office as the guy with the recipe-testing wife; \"crazy amounts\" of tester cookies, brownies, cakes and more went with him to work almost daily. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, with the book just out, Laidlaw is still baking, only this time with her young daughter Poppy tucked in a carrier across her chest. \"We bake together. She loves it!\" Laidlaw said, and it's true: during my visit, Poppy was giggling and smiling, her eyes following her mother's deft movements as Laidlaw whisked together the batter for \u003cstrong>Pumpkin-Brandy Bread,\u003c/strong> (\u003cem>see recipe below\u003c/em>) a specialty of her own mother's. The finished product, still hot out of the oven, wasn't overly boozy, but it did have a wonderfully grown-up whiff of brandy to it, making it perfect for afternoon tea, especially during the holidays. Her trick for cooking while parenting? \"I cook everything in tiny steps, so I can stop anytime.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of her favorite recipes in the book are ones that come from her own family traditions, like the Christmas Breakfast Pie, something that she, her mother, and her brother make every Christmas, no matter where they are, and the Beer Rolls, originally made with just Bisquick and beer. \"My brother and I thought that was so cool, baking with beer!\" she said, which led her to develop a similar, from-scratch recipe that captured the appeal of the original. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She finds her inspiration in things she sees in bakeries, in restaurants, in flavor combinations she imagines. \"I'm kind of a lemon freak. There's a crazy amount of citrus zest in the book, it's kind of obnoxious!\" As for her favorite thing to bake, \"definitely pies and galettes,\" although she especially admires bread bakers. \"It's a real skill that can be kind of hard to do in a home kitchen. But it's so basic and satisfying.\" Flipping through the recipes, it's clear that Laidlaw has a taste for fruit; there are wonderful, not-too-sweet fruit desserts in every chapter. \u003cstrong>Pear Custard Tart\u003c/strong> (\u003cem>see recipe below\u003c/em>), inspired by a old Julia Child recipe, comes out delectably elegant, and the vanilla-poached pears are good enough to eat on their own. Laidlaw prefers a hint of salt to too much sweetness, and few recipes seem overly gooey or rich. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's an easy, appealing book, reflecting Laidlaw's own opinion, based in experience as both a professional and a home baker, that baking isn't that hard, and that its reputation as the stern, inflexible taskmistress of the kitchen is ill-deserved. Once you know the basic chemistry of baking and have a feel for how different baked goods work, you can mess around with your recipes, more than you might think. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The whole point of the book is to get more people baking, get them to see that it's not so daunting, make it approachable and fun.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>That said, are there common pitfalls that new bakers might avoid?\u003c/strong> \n\u003cli>\"People overwork pastry and biscuit dough too much, then they get frustrated,\" when it doesn't turn out as flaky or fluffy as they hoped.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In making quick breads, like muffins, that are raised with baking powder and/or baking soda, \"some people mix the batter and then just let it sit,\" rather than getting it into the oven, pronto. Once the batter is mixed, the chemical leavening process starts, and so delaying the baking process can produce a flat result.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>And finally, people frequently overbake, paying more attention to the minutes specified in the recipe than to what their senses tell them about the finished product.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>It all comes down to not following recipes too rigidly.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I want people to relax and enjoy it, be more flexible. Not all ingredients are the same, and things change depending on how cold, hot, or wet the day is. Just relax! I think it's the best thing you can do for somebody, to bake something for them.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/pear-custard-tart-500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/pear-custard-tart-500.jpg\" alt=\"Pear-Custard Tart. Photo by Eric Wolfinger\" title=\"Pear-Custard Tart. Photo by Eric Wolfinger\" width=\"500\" height=\"588\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-38620\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Pear-Custard Tart\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe first recipe from Julia Child that I ever made was her French custard apple tart, which I still love to this day. This delicately flavored tart, filled with vanilla-poached pears and brandy-spiked custard and topped with sugary toasted almonds, is an ode to her and that memorable dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFlaky Pie Dough for single crust (see recipe below)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>for the poached pears\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n3⁄4 cup (6 oz⁄185 g) Sugar\u003cbr>\n3 ripe but firm pears, preferably Bosc, peeled, quartered, and cored\u003cbr>\nPeel of 1 orange, removed in strips with a vegetable peeler\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 vanilla bean\u003cbr>\n1 large egg\u003cbr>\n1⁄4 cup (2 oz⁄60 g) sugar plus 1 tbsp\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 cup (4 fl oz⁄125 ml) heavy cream\u003cbr>\n1 tsp pure vanilla extract or 2 tbsp brandy (optional)\u003cbr>\nPinch of kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1⁄4 cup (1 oz⁄30 g) sliced almonds, lightly toasted \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>makes one 10-inch (25-cm) tart\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPrepare the flaky pie dough and chill as directed. (see recipe below)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To poach the pears, cut a circle of parchment paper that will fit in a medium saucepan. Cut a small circle in the middle of the parchment. In the saucepan, bring 3 cups (24 fl oz/750 ml) water and the sugar to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and add the pears and orange peel. Split the vanilla bean and scrape out the seeds with the back of a paring knife; add the pod and seeds to the saucepan. Lay the parchment in the saucepan to submerge the pears. Adjust the heat so that the liquid simmers gently and poach the pears until just tender, about 15 minutes. Let cool in the poaching liquid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400°F (200°C). On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough to a circle about 13 inches (33 cm) in diameter. Transfer the dough to a 10-inch (25-cm) tart pan with a removable bottom and ease into the pan. Trim away any excess dough. Line the tart shell with foil and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake until the crust is dried out and just starting to color a bit, about 20 minutes. Remove the foil and weights. Let cool. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut each pear quarter lengthwise into 4 slices, then lay most of the pear slices in the crust in an overlapping circle close to the rim. Use the remaining slices to fill the middle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a bowl, beat together the egg and the 1⁄4 cup sugar until thick and pale. Beat in the flour and then the cream, vanilla, if using, and salt. Pour evenly over the pears. Bake until the custard starts to puff up, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle the toasted almonds and remaining 1 tablespoon sugar over the top of the tart. Continue to bake until the custard is set and lightly browned, 15–20 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack until warm or room temperature before slicing and serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Baker's Note:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nTo turn this into an apple tart, gently sauté 3 peeled, cored, and sliced apples in 1 tablespoon butter until they just start to become tender. Spread evenly in the partially baked crust, pour over the custard, and proceed with the recipe from there.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Flaky Pie Dough for Single Crust\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 1⁄4 cups (61⁄2 oz⁄200 g) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1⁄4 tsp kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 tsp sugar (optional; omit if making a savory dish)\u003cbr>\n7 tbsp (31⁄2 oz⁄105 g) very cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes\u003cbr>\n5 tbsp (3 fl oz⁄80 ml) ice water, plus more if needed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>makes enough for one 9-inch (23-cm) pie or tart\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIn the bowl of a food processor, stir together the flour, salt, and sugar, if using. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sprinkle the butter over the top and pulse for a few seconds, or just until the butter is slightly broken up into the flour but still in visible pieces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Evenly sprinkle the water over the flour mixture, then process just until the mixture starts to come together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dump the dough into a large lock-top plastic bag, and press into a flat disk. Refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes or up to 1 day, or freeze for up to 1 month.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Pumpkin Brandy Bread\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGrowing up, I remember my mom baking this bread in metal coffee cans and how I loved the funny round shape. This recipe calls for a lot of brandy, more than you might be comfortable with, but it is honestly the best pumpkin bread I have ever tasted. You can cut the brandy in half if you want.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 large eggs\u003cbr>\n2 cups (1 lb⁄500 g) granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n1 cup (7 oz⁄220 g) firmly packed light brown sugar\u003cbr>\n1 cup (8 fl oz⁄250 ml) canola oil\u003cbr>\n2⁄3 cup (5 fl oz⁄160 ml) brandy\u003cbr>\n1 can (15 oz⁄470 g) pumpkin puree\u003cbr>\n3 1⁄2 cups (171⁄2 oz⁄545 g) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n2 tsp baking soda\u003cbr>\n1 1⁄2 tbsp pumpkin pie spice\u003cbr>\n1 tsp kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1⁄2 cup (2 oz⁄60 g) chopped pecans or walnuts, lightly toasted (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>makes 2 loaves\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPosition a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350°F (180°C). Generously butter two 9-by-5-inch (23-by-13-cm) loaf pans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugars. Add the oil, brandy, and pumpkin and whisk to combine. In another bowl, sift together the flour, baking soda, pumpkin pie spice, and salt. Add to the pumpkin mixture along with the nuts, if using, and stir to combine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Divide the batter between the prepared pans and bake until richly golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center of a loaf comes out clean, about 50 minutes. Let cool slightly in the pans, then turn the loaves out onto a wire rack to cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Baker's Note:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBaked in smaller, individual-sized loaf pans, this decadent bread makes excellent mini gifts during the holidays. Divide the batter between the pans. The baking time might vary depending on the size of the pans. Once the baked loaves have cooled, wrap each one in colorful cellophane, tie a ribbon around it, and bring on the good cheer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipes and Photos appears with permission from Home Baked Comfort. Photographs by Eric Wolfinger Copyright 2011 by Weldon Owen Inc. and Williams-Sonoma, Inc.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/38315/cookbook-review-home-baked-comfort-by-kim-laidlaw","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_253","bayareabites_1255","bayareabites_430","bayareabites_10139","bayareabites_1541","bayareabites_1510","bayareabites_1284","bayareabites_1393"],"featImg":"bayareabites_38612","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_36841":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_36841","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"36841","score":null,"sort":[1324818027000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"christmas-morning-pumpkin-bread","title":"Christmas Morning Pumpkin Bread","publishDate":1324818027,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Christmas Recipes | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":15122,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/pumpkin-bread560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/pumpkin-bread560.jpg\" alt=\"Christmas Morning Pumpkin Bread\" title=\"Christmas Morning Pumpkin Bread\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37028\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pumpkin for Christmas: who knew? My Midwestern pals, that's who. Putting together two back-to-back holiday parties for my best friend, who cherishes her Minnesotan roots, I was surprised that she put pumpkin cake, made in a Bundt pan, of course, on the top of her list of must-have treats for the table. She was right: big smiles lit up the faces of the guests who hailed from Chicago and Minneapolis when they spied the cinnamon-brown Bundt. \"Pumpkin cake for Christmas! I was just thinking about that,\" said one. \"With whipped cream, of course,\" agreed another. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It makes sense, though: such a cake is dense and spicy, redolent of all the fragrant holiday spices that perfume everything from gingersnaps to mulled cider and hot wine this time of year. It's easy to throw together, since a couple cans of pumpkin are probably already in the cabinet, souvenirs of Thanksgiving's pie-minded supermarket stock-up. (A recent \u003ca href=\"http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/12/13/whats-in-your-kitchen/\">report\u003c/a> found that 20% of Americans always have canned pumpkin on hand in their pantries. Having poked around in a lot of home kitchens, though, I would guess that most of that pumpkin was bought in 1993, forgotten, and never moved or dusted since.) If not, there's a plethora of gorgeous fresh winter squash out there, ready to be roasted and mashed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(The nomenclature of pumpkin bread aside, I've found that butternut squash gives the most consistently full-flavored results, and cranking your freshly roasted squash through a food mill turns any stringy chunks into a velvety puree.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Pumpkin-Spice-Bundt-Cake-with-Buttermilk-Icing-233011\">pumpkin cake\u003c/a> I made for last week's holiday party was a basic buttery-cinnamony recipe originally published in \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em>. It was light and moist, thanks to the pumpkin and buttermilk. I added powdered ginger, fresh nutmeg, and a pinch of cloves to the mix; having just cinnamon and allspice is like the Brady Brunch without Cindy, Jan, or Alice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turns out I wasn't the only one thinking about pumpkin at this time of year. Talking to my old pal Jennifer Joseph, poet, founder and publisher of the excellent \u003ca href=\"http://www.manicdpress.com\">Manic D Press\u003c/a>, and Bernal baker par excellence, I got the inside scoop on the pumpkin cake she made last week, which was devoured, down to the crumbs in less than two days by her husband and daughter. Made with whole-wheat pastry flour, fresh cranberries, walnuts, chocolate chips, and pumpkin, it was, she said, \"secretly good for you,\" and we all know \u003ca href=\"http://www.exploratorium.edu/exploring/exploring_chocolate/choc_7.html\">chocolate is a health food\u003c/a>, right? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also looks particularly bright and festive, which meant it wasn't too much of a jump to take it from afternoon cake to morning bread. I've cut back the sugar a little, subbing in apple juice (or cider) for the water in Jen's original recipe so as to add a little more natural sweetness and flavor. Served warm, this bread is lovely on its own, or spread with a little whipped cream cheese. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Happy holidays!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Secretly Good for You Pumpkin Breakfast Bread\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Fresh cranberries add a nice tanginess to this sweet bread. Stock up on cranberries when you find them in late autumn; they freeze beautifully and don't need to be thawed before using. In a pinch, you can use dried cranberries, but since they're already sweetened, they won't add as much contrast to the finished loaf.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 1 loaf\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 20 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time: \u003c/strong>50-60 minues\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour, 10-20 minutes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups whole wheat pastry flour\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 tsp pumpkin pie spice (see note, below)\u003cbr>\n1 tsp baking soda\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n2 eggs\u003cbr>\n1 cup pumpkin puree\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup sugar\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup canola oil, melted butter, or melted coconut oil\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup apple juice\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp molasses\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup chopped fresh cranberries\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup chopped walnuts\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup dark or white chocolate chips, optional\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Grease a loaf pan or metal or Pyrex ring mold. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a large bowl, sift together flour, spices, baking soda, and salt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. In a medium bowl, beat eggs, sugar, pumpkin, oil, apple juice, and molasses together. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Stir pumpkin mixture into flour mixture, stopping when just mixed. Gently stir in cranberries, walnuts, and chocolate chips, if using. Spoon into prepared pan. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Bake 50-60 minutes for a loaf pan, ring mold 40-50 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: Pumpkin pie spice, sometimes called apple pie spice, is a blend of commonly used baking spices, usually including cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, allspice, and/or cloves. For this recipe, you can substitute 3/4 tsp cinnamon, 1/4 tsp freshly ground nutmeg, 1/4 tsp ginger, and 1/4 tsp ground cloves or allspice.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"A festive, secretly good-for-you pumpkin bread recipe, perfect for warming up your holiday morning. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1451155587,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":19,"wordCount":811},"headData":{"title":"Christmas Morning Pumpkin Bread | KQED","description":"A festive, secretly good-for-you pumpkin bread recipe, perfect for warming up your holiday morning. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Christmas Morning Pumpkin Bread","datePublished":"2011-12-25T13:00:27.000Z","dateModified":"2015-12-26T18:46:27.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"36841 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=36841","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/12/25/christmas-morning-pumpkin-bread/","disqusTitle":"Christmas Morning Pumpkin Bread","path":"/bayareabites/36841/christmas-morning-pumpkin-bread","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/pumpkin-bread560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/pumpkin-bread560.jpg\" alt=\"Christmas Morning Pumpkin Bread\" title=\"Christmas Morning Pumpkin Bread\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37028\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pumpkin for Christmas: who knew? My Midwestern pals, that's who. Putting together two back-to-back holiday parties for my best friend, who cherishes her Minnesotan roots, I was surprised that she put pumpkin cake, made in a Bundt pan, of course, on the top of her list of must-have treats for the table. She was right: big smiles lit up the faces of the guests who hailed from Chicago and Minneapolis when they spied the cinnamon-brown Bundt. \"Pumpkin cake for Christmas! I was just thinking about that,\" said one. \"With whipped cream, of course,\" agreed another. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It makes sense, though: such a cake is dense and spicy, redolent of all the fragrant holiday spices that perfume everything from gingersnaps to mulled cider and hot wine this time of year. It's easy to throw together, since a couple cans of pumpkin are probably already in the cabinet, souvenirs of Thanksgiving's pie-minded supermarket stock-up. (A recent \u003ca href=\"http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/12/13/whats-in-your-kitchen/\">report\u003c/a> found that 20% of Americans always have canned pumpkin on hand in their pantries. Having poked around in a lot of home kitchens, though, I would guess that most of that pumpkin was bought in 1993, forgotten, and never moved or dusted since.) If not, there's a plethora of gorgeous fresh winter squash out there, ready to be roasted and mashed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(The nomenclature of pumpkin bread aside, I've found that butternut squash gives the most consistently full-flavored results, and cranking your freshly roasted squash through a food mill turns any stringy chunks into a velvety puree.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Pumpkin-Spice-Bundt-Cake-with-Buttermilk-Icing-233011\">pumpkin cake\u003c/a> I made for last week's holiday party was a basic buttery-cinnamony recipe originally published in \u003cem>Gourmet\u003c/em>. It was light and moist, thanks to the pumpkin and buttermilk. I added powdered ginger, fresh nutmeg, and a pinch of cloves to the mix; having just cinnamon and allspice is like the Brady Brunch without Cindy, Jan, or Alice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turns out I wasn't the only one thinking about pumpkin at this time of year. Talking to my old pal Jennifer Joseph, poet, founder and publisher of the excellent \u003ca href=\"http://www.manicdpress.com\">Manic D Press\u003c/a>, and Bernal baker par excellence, I got the inside scoop on the pumpkin cake she made last week, which was devoured, down to the crumbs in less than two days by her husband and daughter. Made with whole-wheat pastry flour, fresh cranberries, walnuts, chocolate chips, and pumpkin, it was, she said, \"secretly good for you,\" and we all know \u003ca href=\"http://www.exploratorium.edu/exploring/exploring_chocolate/choc_7.html\">chocolate is a health food\u003c/a>, right? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also looks particularly bright and festive, which meant it wasn't too much of a jump to take it from afternoon cake to morning bread. I've cut back the sugar a little, subbing in apple juice (or cider) for the water in Jen's original recipe so as to add a little more natural sweetness and flavor. Served warm, this bread is lovely on its own, or spread with a little whipped cream cheese. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Happy holidays!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Secretly Good for You Pumpkin Breakfast Bread\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Fresh cranberries add a nice tanginess to this sweet bread. Stock up on cranberries when you find them in late autumn; they freeze beautifully and don't need to be thawed before using. In a pinch, you can use dried cranberries, but since they're already sweetened, they won't add as much contrast to the finished loaf.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 1 loaf\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 20 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time: \u003c/strong>50-60 minues\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 1 hour, 10-20 minutes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 cups whole wheat pastry flour\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 tsp pumpkin pie spice (see note, below)\u003cbr>\n1 tsp baking soda\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n2 eggs\u003cbr>\n1 cup pumpkin puree\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup sugar\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup canola oil, melted butter, or melted coconut oil\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup apple juice\u003cbr>\n2 tbsp molasses\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup chopped fresh cranberries\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup chopped walnuts\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup dark or white chocolate chips, optional\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Grease a loaf pan or metal or Pyrex ring mold. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a large bowl, sift together flour, spices, baking soda, and salt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. In a medium bowl, beat eggs, sugar, pumpkin, oil, apple juice, and molasses together. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Stir pumpkin mixture into flour mixture, stopping when just mixed. Gently stir in cranberries, walnuts, and chocolate chips, if using. Spoon into prepared pan. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Bake 50-60 minutes for a loaf pan, ring mold 40-50 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Note: Pumpkin pie spice, sometimes called apple pie spice, is a blend of commonly used baking spices, usually including cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, allspice, and/or cloves. For this recipe, you can substitute 3/4 tsp cinnamon, 1/4 tsp freshly ground nutmeg, 1/4 tsp ginger, and 1/4 tsp ground cloves or allspice.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/36841/christmas-morning-pumpkin-bread","authors":["5038"],"series":["bayareabites_15122"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_12744","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_1146","bayareabites_1246","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_558","bayareabites_9926","bayareabites_1511","bayareabites_1510"],"featImg":"bayareabites_37028","label":"bayareabites_15122"},"bayareabites_18854":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_18854","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"18854","score":null,"sort":[1290355244000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"sunset-cookbook-review","title":"Sunset Cookbook Review","publishDate":1290355244,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0376027940/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/sunset-cookbook300.jpg\" alt=\"The Sunset Cookbook\" title=\"The Sunset Cookbook\" width=\"300\" height=\"374\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-19000\">\u003c/a>I can still remember the moment I truly arrived in California. It was August of 1990, and I was fresh out of college and ready to start a life here. I'd never been further west than Minneapolis, never seen fresh lemons dangling over the sidewalk or palm trees flanking a city block. I sat down a stool at\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/its-tops-coffee-shop-san-francisco\"> It's Tops Coffee Shop\u003c/a> and looked up at the board of daily specials. Avocado omelet! Avocado & Jack cheese burger! BLT with avocado! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Avocados, at a diner! \u003c/em>I marveled. Where I came from, diners counted parsley as a vegetable. Fruit was cherry Jell-O, piled in cubes and topped with a squirt of cream from a can. \u003cem>The golden West,\u003c/em> I thought. \u003cem>I'm really here!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you might expect, there are plenty of avocado recipes (22, in fact, including Coconut-Avocado Ice Cream and Sake-Soy Guacomole) in \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0376027940/kqedorg-20\">The Sunset Cookbook\u003c/a>, a five-pound, 800-page compilation of the best of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com\">Sunset\u003c/a>. Margo True, the magazine's food editor since 2006, stopped by \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> last week to talk about the history of Sunset and the creation of the book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turns out my 21-year-old self was hardly the first to be stunned by the glories of California living. Lured by the promise of everything from gold and orange groves to movie stardom and high-tech promise, newcomers have been flooding westward for decades on end--and since 1898, Sunset magazine has been there to tell them how to live. According to True, it began as a promotional pamphlet for Southern Pacific's luxurious Sunset Limited rail line, which curved like a smile from New Orleans through Texas and Arizona and up to Los Angeles and San Francisco. (Under the same name, the route remains as part of Amtrak's Western service.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As one of the largest landowners in the West, Southern Pacific wanted to promote not just Western travel but Western living, hoping to entice restless Midwesterners and Easterners into buying property and putting down new roots. That first issue, a 16-page pamphlet touting the glories of Yosemite and the charms of Los Angeles, is still on file in Sunset's archives. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The magazine later developed into a more serious, stand-alone publication, focusing on economics, politics, and fiction and featuring the writing of Sinclair Lewis, Dashiell Hammett, Jack London, even Herbert Hoover. Bought by an Iowan insurance salesman just before the Depression, it dropped the highbrow essays in favor of gardening, food, travel, and home tips, a format that continues today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The magazine really found its niche during WWII's victory-gardening movement. The federal government had plenty of gardening advice to share with homeowners, but little of it applied to the unique climates and landscapes west of the Continental Divide. So brothers Bill and Mel Lane, sons of the magazine's original owner, started their own Western test garden on a one-acre plot near U.C. Berkeley, sharing their findings with the magazine's growing readership. (Their experiences would lead to the development of Sunset's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0376039167/kqedorg-20\">Western Garden Book\u003c/a>, now the must-have reference for anyone with a garden from Seattle to Tuscon.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the early fifties, the brothers had a mission to turn the Sunset offices into a laboratory for Western living, a place where everything from party recipes to garden design could be tested and experienced. To that end, they moved the business from downtown San Francisco to a seven-acre spread in Menlo Park, where it remains today. Architect Clifford May, dubbed \"the father of the ranch house,\" built a sprawling, single-level structure that looked more like an inn than an office.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>True, who had been working as an editor at \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com\">Saveur\u003c/a> magazine in New York City, still remembers how stunned she was upon arrival for her first interview. Where the Saveur offices were located on a particularly gritty urban block, Sunset's building had floor-to-ceiling windows and glass doors that slid open onto courtyards filled with benches and tables and shaded with pergolas twined with flowering vines. Cool terra-cotta tiles flowed seamlessly from indoors to out. A series of test gardens were arranged to mimic the distinct natural landscapes of the West; the desert cacti of the Southwest, the redwoods of the Central California coast, the cloud forests of the Pacific Northwest. (When she related all this to a colleague back in New York, her friend replied dryly, \"Sure makes you miss the methadone clinic on the first floor, doesn't it?\")\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the late 60s and early 70s, when the glamor of the sun-and-surf California lifestyle was at its peak, Sunset \"was like Vogue,\" said True. \"Each issue was 300, 350 pages. It was huge!\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And food, of course, was a big part of both Western living and the magazine itself. Cooking and entertaining meant different flavors, done with a different sort of flair than elsewhere in the country. There was the emphasis on year-round, casual outdoor dining, the everyday influence of Mexican and Asian cuisines. Artichokes, abalone, avocados, dates and citrus fresh from the tree, chile peppers, Alaskan salmon, Dungeness crab--all kinds of things counted as exotic elsewhere in the country were common here. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Sunset garnered a lot of firsts, promoting woks and Chinese cooking in the early 50s, guacamole in the 60s, farmers' markets in the 70s, even publishing the first American recipe for pesto in 1946. The magazine built an outdoor adobe oven (and published a wildly popular how-to), set up beehives and chicken coops, even pit-roasted an entire pig on the company volleyball court (much to the distress of the local fire department). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In planning the cookbook, True and her staff knew they had to create a big, general-interest book that would nonetheless be uniquely Western. The introduction features \"24 Iconic Western Dishes\" that are \"inextricably embedded in Western cooking and eating,\" from date shakes and mai tais to cioppino, pho, crab Louis, barbecued oysters, plank-roasted salmon, tamales, fish tacos, Caesar salad, and California-style pizza. There are instructions for shucking oysters and making dim sum, sushi, and Vietnamese spring rolls at home; guides to craft beers and Asian greens; and short histories of the places and people behind the kitchen staples we take for granted, from the artichoke growers of Castroville and the oyster farmers of Tomales Bay to the pepper growers of New Mexico and the discoverers of the navel orange, Meyer lemon, Hass avocado, and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Naturally, there's an extensive section on the wines of California, Oregon, and Washington (with brief mentions of the wine-growing regions of Arizona, Colorado, Idaho, and British Columbia), along with detailed recipe-pairing suggestions. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Bay Area readers, it's particularly fun to see our local heroes called out. \u003ca href=\"http://www.delfinasf.com\">Delfina\u003c/a>'s Carbonara Pizza and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzetta211.com\">Pizzetta 211\u003c/a>'s Margherita Pizza both make an appearance, as do Elizabeth Falkner's Chocolate Chiffon Cupcakes, \u003ca href=\"http://www.baywolf.com\">Bay Wolf\u003c/a>'s Pinot-braised Duck with Spicy Greens, Bradley Ogden's Soft Overnight Herb Rolls, and the Steamed Halibut on Soft Tofu with Black Bean Sauce from \u003ca href=\"http://www.heavensdog.com\">Heaven's Dog\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just like the original Sunset Limited pamphlet, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0376027940/kqedorg-20\">The Sunset Cookbook\u003c/a> is an irresistible come-on for the joys of living out here in the land of salads, grilling, and avocado fries (really--see page 275). Want to move all your favorite people out West? Put this book on their holiday list. They'll be here. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Farmer John's Favorite Pumpkin Bread\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nA lovely nibble for Thanksgiving breakfast, courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.farmerjohnspumpkins.com/\">Farmer John's Pumpkin Farm\u003c/a> in Half Moon Bay. Adapted from \u003cem>The Sunset Cookbook.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> 2 loaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 cups flour\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cups dark brown sugar, packed\u003cbr>\n1 cup granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts or pecans\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup raisins\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 tsp baking soda\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 tsp cinnamon\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 tsp nutmeg\u003cbr>\n3/4 tsp ground cloves\u003cbr>\n3/4 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp allspice\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp ground ginger\u003cbr>\n3 eggs\u003cbr>\n1 3/4 cups canned pumpkin or mashed roasted pumpkin or winter squash\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup vegetable oil \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Preheat oven to 350F. Lightly grease 2 8 1/2-inch by 4 1/2-inch loaf pans. In a large bowl, mix flour, sugars, nuts, raisins, baking soda, spices, and salt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a medium bowl, whisk together eggs, pumpkin, and oil until well blended. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Add wet ingredients to dry and stir just until well blended. Divide between 2 pans. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Bake until bread pulls away from pan sides and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 50 to 60 minutes. Let bread cool in pans on a rack fro about 15 minutes. Loosen bread from the pans with a knife and invert onto rack. Cool thoroughly before slicing. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Sunset magazine publishes \u003cem>The Sunset Cookbook\u003c/em> a five-pound, 800-page irresistible tribute to everything we love to eat out here in the West. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1290369100,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":25,"wordCount":1477},"headData":{"title":"Sunset Cookbook Review | KQED","description":"Sunset magazine publishes The Sunset Cookbook a five-pound, 800-page irresistible tribute to everything we love to eat out here in the West. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Sunset Cookbook Review","datePublished":"2010-11-21T16:00:44.000Z","dateModified":"2010-11-21T19:51:40.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"18854 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=18854","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/21/sunset-cookbook-review/","disqusTitle":"Sunset Cookbook Review","path":"/bayareabites/18854/sunset-cookbook-review","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0376027940/kqedorg-20\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/sunset-cookbook300.jpg\" alt=\"The Sunset Cookbook\" title=\"The Sunset Cookbook\" width=\"300\" height=\"374\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-19000\">\u003c/a>I can still remember the moment I truly arrived in California. It was August of 1990, and I was fresh out of college and ready to start a life here. I'd never been further west than Minneapolis, never seen fresh lemons dangling over the sidewalk or palm trees flanking a city block. I sat down a stool at\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/its-tops-coffee-shop-san-francisco\"> It's Tops Coffee Shop\u003c/a> and looked up at the board of daily specials. Avocado omelet! Avocado & Jack cheese burger! BLT with avocado! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Avocados, at a diner! \u003c/em>I marveled. Where I came from, diners counted parsley as a vegetable. Fruit was cherry Jell-O, piled in cubes and topped with a squirt of cream from a can. \u003cem>The golden West,\u003c/em> I thought. \u003cem>I'm really here!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you might expect, there are plenty of avocado recipes (22, in fact, including Coconut-Avocado Ice Cream and Sake-Soy Guacomole) in \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0376027940/kqedorg-20\">The Sunset Cookbook\u003c/a>, a five-pound, 800-page compilation of the best of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com\">Sunset\u003c/a>. Margo True, the magazine's food editor since 2006, stopped by \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> last week to talk about the history of Sunset and the creation of the book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turns out my 21-year-old self was hardly the first to be stunned by the glories of California living. Lured by the promise of everything from gold and orange groves to movie stardom and high-tech promise, newcomers have been flooding westward for decades on end--and since 1898, Sunset magazine has been there to tell them how to live. According to True, it began as a promotional pamphlet for Southern Pacific's luxurious Sunset Limited rail line, which curved like a smile from New Orleans through Texas and Arizona and up to Los Angeles and San Francisco. (Under the same name, the route remains as part of Amtrak's Western service.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As one of the largest landowners in the West, Southern Pacific wanted to promote not just Western travel but Western living, hoping to entice restless Midwesterners and Easterners into buying property and putting down new roots. That first issue, a 16-page pamphlet touting the glories of Yosemite and the charms of Los Angeles, is still on file in Sunset's archives. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The magazine later developed into a more serious, stand-alone publication, focusing on economics, politics, and fiction and featuring the writing of Sinclair Lewis, Dashiell Hammett, Jack London, even Herbert Hoover. Bought by an Iowan insurance salesman just before the Depression, it dropped the highbrow essays in favor of gardening, food, travel, and home tips, a format that continues today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The magazine really found its niche during WWII's victory-gardening movement. The federal government had plenty of gardening advice to share with homeowners, but little of it applied to the unique climates and landscapes west of the Continental Divide. So brothers Bill and Mel Lane, sons of the magazine's original owner, started their own Western test garden on a one-acre plot near U.C. Berkeley, sharing their findings with the magazine's growing readership. (Their experiences would lead to the development of Sunset's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0376039167/kqedorg-20\">Western Garden Book\u003c/a>, now the must-have reference for anyone with a garden from Seattle to Tuscon.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the early fifties, the brothers had a mission to turn the Sunset offices into a laboratory for Western living, a place where everything from party recipes to garden design could be tested and experienced. To that end, they moved the business from downtown San Francisco to a seven-acre spread in Menlo Park, where it remains today. Architect Clifford May, dubbed \"the father of the ranch house,\" built a sprawling, single-level structure that looked more like an inn than an office.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>True, who had been working as an editor at \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com\">Saveur\u003c/a> magazine in New York City, still remembers how stunned she was upon arrival for her first interview. Where the Saveur offices were located on a particularly gritty urban block, Sunset's building had floor-to-ceiling windows and glass doors that slid open onto courtyards filled with benches and tables and shaded with pergolas twined with flowering vines. Cool terra-cotta tiles flowed seamlessly from indoors to out. A series of test gardens were arranged to mimic the distinct natural landscapes of the West; the desert cacti of the Southwest, the redwoods of the Central California coast, the cloud forests of the Pacific Northwest. (When she related all this to a colleague back in New York, her friend replied dryly, \"Sure makes you miss the methadone clinic on the first floor, doesn't it?\")\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the late 60s and early 70s, when the glamor of the sun-and-surf California lifestyle was at its peak, Sunset \"was like Vogue,\" said True. \"Each issue was 300, 350 pages. It was huge!\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And food, of course, was a big part of both Western living and the magazine itself. Cooking and entertaining meant different flavors, done with a different sort of flair than elsewhere in the country. There was the emphasis on year-round, casual outdoor dining, the everyday influence of Mexican and Asian cuisines. Artichokes, abalone, avocados, dates and citrus fresh from the tree, chile peppers, Alaskan salmon, Dungeness crab--all kinds of things counted as exotic elsewhere in the country were common here. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Sunset garnered a lot of firsts, promoting woks and Chinese cooking in the early 50s, guacamole in the 60s, farmers' markets in the 70s, even publishing the first American recipe for pesto in 1946. The magazine built an outdoor adobe oven (and published a wildly popular how-to), set up beehives and chicken coops, even pit-roasted an entire pig on the company volleyball court (much to the distress of the local fire department). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In planning the cookbook, True and her staff knew they had to create a big, general-interest book that would nonetheless be uniquely Western. The introduction features \"24 Iconic Western Dishes\" that are \"inextricably embedded in Western cooking and eating,\" from date shakes and mai tais to cioppino, pho, crab Louis, barbecued oysters, plank-roasted salmon, tamales, fish tacos, Caesar salad, and California-style pizza. There are instructions for shucking oysters and making dim sum, sushi, and Vietnamese spring rolls at home; guides to craft beers and Asian greens; and short histories of the places and people behind the kitchen staples we take for granted, from the artichoke growers of Castroville and the oyster farmers of Tomales Bay to the pepper growers of New Mexico and the discoverers of the navel orange, Meyer lemon, Hass avocado, and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Naturally, there's an extensive section on the wines of California, Oregon, and Washington (with brief mentions of the wine-growing regions of Arizona, Colorado, Idaho, and British Columbia), along with detailed recipe-pairing suggestions. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Bay Area readers, it's particularly fun to see our local heroes called out. \u003ca href=\"http://www.delfinasf.com\">Delfina\u003c/a>'s Carbonara Pizza and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzetta211.com\">Pizzetta 211\u003c/a>'s Margherita Pizza both make an appearance, as do Elizabeth Falkner's Chocolate Chiffon Cupcakes, \u003ca href=\"http://www.baywolf.com\">Bay Wolf\u003c/a>'s Pinot-braised Duck with Spicy Greens, Bradley Ogden's Soft Overnight Herb Rolls, and the Steamed Halibut on Soft Tofu with Black Bean Sauce from \u003ca href=\"http://www.heavensdog.com\">Heaven's Dog\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just like the original Sunset Limited pamphlet, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0376027940/kqedorg-20\">The Sunset Cookbook\u003c/a> is an irresistible come-on for the joys of living out here in the land of salads, grilling, and avocado fries (really--see page 275). Want to move all your favorite people out West? Put this book on their holiday list. They'll be here. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Farmer John's Favorite Pumpkin Bread\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nA lovely nibble for Thanksgiving breakfast, courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.farmerjohnspumpkins.com/\">Farmer John's Pumpkin Farm\u003c/a> in Half Moon Bay. Adapted from \u003cem>The Sunset Cookbook.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> 2 loaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 cups flour\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cups dark brown sugar, packed\u003cbr>\n1 cup granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts or pecans\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup raisins\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 tsp baking soda\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 tsp cinnamon\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 tsp nutmeg\u003cbr>\n3/4 tsp ground cloves\u003cbr>\n3/4 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp allspice\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp ground ginger\u003cbr>\n3 eggs\u003cbr>\n1 3/4 cups canned pumpkin or mashed roasted pumpkin or winter squash\u003cbr>\n3/4 cup vegetable oil \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Preheat oven to 350F. Lightly grease 2 8 1/2-inch by 4 1/2-inch loaf pans. In a large bowl, mix flour, sugars, nuts, raisins, baking soda, spices, and salt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. In a medium bowl, whisk together eggs, pumpkin, and oil until well blended. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Add wet ingredients to dry and stir just until well blended. Divide between 2 pans. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Bake until bread pulls away from pan sides and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 50 to 60 minutes. Let bread cool in pans on a rack fro about 15 minutes. Loosen bread from the pans with a knife and invert onto rack. Cool thoroughly before slicing. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/18854/sunset-cookbook-review","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_8518","bayareabites_1510","bayareabites_2252","bayareabites_8514","bayareabites_8515","bayareabites_8516","bayareabites_8517"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_1571":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_1571","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"1571","score":null,"sort":[1224775738000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"pumpkin-bread-2","title":"Pumpkin Bread","publishDate":1224775738,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/10/pumpkin-bread.jpg\" alt=\"pumpkin bread\" align=\"left\">October is the official start of pumpkin bread season in our house. While other families wait for the December holidays to kick into gear before making this quick bread, our patience is limited. As soon as the pumpkins start appearing on porches for Halloween, everyone in my house knows pumpkin bread isn't far behind. The smell of baking bread with a hint of cinnamon and nutmeg wafting through the house is our clarion call for Fall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pumpkin bread is one of those recipes that is distinctly American (as is the pumpkin itself). I recently came upon a recipe that was originally published in 1846 and then \u003ca href=\"http://query.nytimes.com/mem/archive-free/pdf?_r=1&res=9B01E6DF153DE733A25751C0A9649C946596D6CF&oref=slogin\">reprinted in The New York Times in 1914\u003c/a>. The recipe, and the article itself, were fascinating. I was surprised that the ingredients list was far different than what is traditionally used today. Instead of making a batter with eggs, sugar and flour, the recipe produces a risen bread and uses corn meal -- or Indian meal -- along with yeast, salt and, of course, pumpkin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I found the recipe online, I couldn't stop looking at the little slip of scanned in paper. I was captivated by the idea of women making this bread in their kitchens (and I'm sure they were mostly women) and started pondering how the concept of pumpkin bread could have changed so drastically in the last hundred years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recipes are like little time capsules. The ingredients say so much about the era and place in which they were used and published. We use white flour and refined sugar today simply because our current economy makes these \"staples\" cheap and accessible. But when Alice B. Tregaskis -- the author of the recipe in the Times -- made her pumpkin bread, her staples were different. There was no driving to a local mega mart or Whole Foods to purchase processed white flour and canned pumpkin, even in New York City. Home cooks would create their own pumpkin purees and use corn meal ground locally or at home. These were items that were available on a seasonal and local level only. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> I couldn’t help but wonder who Alice B. Tregaskis was and what cookbook she was using for the recipe. The one thing that seemed clear was that if she was writing in recipes to the NY Times in 1914, she was sort of a food blogger in her own time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So in honor of Alice B. Tragaskis, here’s my own pumpkin bread recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pumpkin Bread\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> One loaf or 12 muffins\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups of flour\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp baking powder\u003cbr>\n1 tsp baking soda\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp cinnamon\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp nutmeg\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp ground ginger\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup softened butter\u003cbr>\n1 cup sugar\u003cbr>\n2 eggs\u003cbr>\n1 tsp vanilla\u003cbr>\n1 cup pureed pumpkin\u003cbr>\n2 Tbsp milk\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup walnuts or pecans\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1.\tPreheat oven to 350 degrees.\u003cbr>\n2. Mix all dry ingredients in a large bowl.\u003cbr>\n3.\tBeat butter and sugar until creamy.\u003cbr>\n4.\tAdd in eggs and vanilla and cream thoroughly.\u003cbr>\n5.\tAdd pumpkin to egg and butter mixture.\u003cbr>\n6.\tIncorporate dry ingredients into wet mixture, but don’t overmix.\u003cbr>\n7.\tGently add in nuts.\u003cbr>\n8. Pour batter into a 9 by 5 by 3-inch loaf pan or a muffin pan that has been buttered or oiled.\u003cbr>\n9. Bake for about 40 minutes (use a cake tester to see if it comes out clean) if making one loaf, or 20 minutes if making muffins. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"October is the official start of pumpkin bread season in our house. While other families wait for the December holidays to kick into gear before making this quick bread, our patience is limited. As soon as the pumpkins start appearing on porches for Halloween, everyone in my house knows pumpkin bread isn't far behind. The smell of baking bread with a hint of cinnamon and nutmeg wafting through the house is our clarion call for Fall.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1445583052,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":14,"wordCount":589},"headData":{"title":"Pumpkin Bread | KQED","description":"October is the official start of pumpkin bread season in our house. While other families wait for the December holidays to kick into gear before making this quick bread, our patience is limited. As soon as the pumpkins start appearing on porches for Halloween, everyone in my house knows pumpkin bread isn't far behind. The smell of baking bread with a hint of cinnamon and nutmeg wafting through the house is our clarion call for Fall.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Pumpkin Bread","datePublished":"2008-10-23T15:28:58.000Z","dateModified":"2015-10-23T06:50:52.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"1571 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/10/23/pumpkin-bread-2/","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/10/23/pumpkin-bread-2/","disqusTitle":"Pumpkin Bread","path":"/bayareabites/1571/pumpkin-bread-2","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/10/pumpkin-bread.jpg\" alt=\"pumpkin bread\" align=\"left\">October is the official start of pumpkin bread season in our house. While other families wait for the December holidays to kick into gear before making this quick bread, our patience is limited. As soon as the pumpkins start appearing on porches for Halloween, everyone in my house knows pumpkin bread isn't far behind. The smell of baking bread with a hint of cinnamon and nutmeg wafting through the house is our clarion call for Fall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pumpkin bread is one of those recipes that is distinctly American (as is the pumpkin itself). I recently came upon a recipe that was originally published in 1846 and then \u003ca href=\"http://query.nytimes.com/mem/archive-free/pdf?_r=1&res=9B01E6DF153DE733A25751C0A9649C946596D6CF&oref=slogin\">reprinted in The New York Times in 1914\u003c/a>. The recipe, and the article itself, were fascinating. I was surprised that the ingredients list was far different than what is traditionally used today. Instead of making a batter with eggs, sugar and flour, the recipe produces a risen bread and uses corn meal -- or Indian meal -- along with yeast, salt and, of course, pumpkin. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I found the recipe online, I couldn't stop looking at the little slip of scanned in paper. I was captivated by the idea of women making this bread in their kitchens (and I'm sure they were mostly women) and started pondering how the concept of pumpkin bread could have changed so drastically in the last hundred years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recipes are like little time capsules. The ingredients say so much about the era and place in which they were used and published. We use white flour and refined sugar today simply because our current economy makes these \"staples\" cheap and accessible. But when Alice B. Tregaskis -- the author of the recipe in the Times -- made her pumpkin bread, her staples were different. There was no driving to a local mega mart or Whole Foods to purchase processed white flour and canned pumpkin, even in New York City. Home cooks would create their own pumpkin purees and use corn meal ground locally or at home. These were items that were available on a seasonal and local level only. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> I couldn’t help but wonder who Alice B. Tregaskis was and what cookbook she was using for the recipe. The one thing that seemed clear was that if she was writing in recipes to the NY Times in 1914, she was sort of a food blogger in her own time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So in honor of Alice B. Tragaskis, here’s my own pumpkin bread recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pumpkin Bread\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> One loaf or 12 muffins\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups of flour\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp baking powder\u003cbr>\n1 tsp baking soda\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp salt\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp cinnamon\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp nutmeg\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp ground ginger\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup softened butter\u003cbr>\n1 cup sugar\u003cbr>\n2 eggs\u003cbr>\n1 tsp vanilla\u003cbr>\n1 cup pureed pumpkin\u003cbr>\n2 Tbsp milk\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup walnuts or pecans\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1.\tPreheat oven to 350 degrees.\u003cbr>\n2. Mix all dry ingredients in a large bowl.\u003cbr>\n3.\tBeat butter and sugar until creamy.\u003cbr>\n4.\tAdd in eggs and vanilla and cream thoroughly.\u003cbr>\n5.\tAdd pumpkin to egg and butter mixture.\u003cbr>\n6.\tIncorporate dry ingredients into wet mixture, but don’t overmix.\u003cbr>\n7.\tGently add in nuts.\u003cbr>\n8. Pour batter into a 9 by 5 by 3-inch loaf pan or a muffin pan that has been buttered or oiled.\u003cbr>\n9. Bake for about 40 minutes (use a cake tester to see if it comes out clean) if making one loaf, or 20 minutes if making muffins. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/1571/pumpkin-bread-2","authors":["5016"],"categories":["bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_1511","bayareabites_1510"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. 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Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. 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