The Bay Area Restaurant System Was Always Broken. How Do We Fix It?
La Cocina's 'Voices from the Kitchen' Speak Passionately on Race
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You can find more of her work \u003ca href=\"https://www.kotetakotet.com/\">here\u003c/a>.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/68980beab511750abbb1a58f1c768b45?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"root_g","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["subscriber"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["subscriber"]},{"site":"checkplease","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["editor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Ruth Gebreyesus | KQED","description":"Food Writer","ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/68980beab511750abbb1a58f1c768b45?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/68980beab511750abbb1a58f1c768b45?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/rgebreyesus"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_137260":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_137260","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"137260","score":null,"sort":[1589930986000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-bay-area-restaurant-system-was-always-broken-how-do-we-fix-it","title":"The Bay Area Restaurant System Was Always Broken. How Do We Fix It?","publishDate":1589930986,"format":"image","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Before the COVID-19 pandemic, the Bay Area \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">food\u003c/span> industry was in a quiet but persistent crisis. The majority of \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">restaurant\u003c/span> workers earned far below a living wage for the region, even for jobs with tips factored in. Steadily rising residential and commercial rents meant that \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">restaurant\u003c/span> owners swallowed slim margins as an industry standard that would outlive their ambitions. Farmworkers across the state toiled from dusk until dawn with no employer or government safety nets to count on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then the pandemic hit and “everything changed,” said Mourad Lahlou, the chef and owner of Mourad and Aziza in San Francisco. “It shattered what was solid, and it exposed what was weak.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From farms to restaurants and workers, there’s a lot of uncertainty that hangs over food systems and its fragile infrastructure. Amidst the crisis, is there potential to rebuild a more equitable food industry? What solutions could address the flaws that predate the pandemic? These are the questions we asked seven Bay Area food figures who are grappling with long-lived issues magnified by a new reality.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Restaurant Dilemma\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou, chef and owner of Mourad and Aziza\u003cem>: \u003c/em>\u003c/strong>The problem is not so much when we're going to be able to open our restaurants again. What's going to happen is they're going to let us open at half capacity. People are going to be freaked out about sitting around other people. We're going to start taking temperatures of people who come in. We're going to start wearing gloves and masks and have disposable menus as if we were a business that had a big margin where we can afford to do these things. Our rent is going to be the same. The insurance companies are going to charge the same premiums. Minimum wage is still the same. It's incomprehensible to even think that anybody is going to survive this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If we don't really address these issues now in a very forceful way, I truly believe that the impact of this is going to last way beyond the vaccine or the eradication of this pandemic. That's what keeps me up at night. It’s so scary to me that only the big corporations are going to have the means and the possibility to open restaurants whenever they want, wherever they want. That desire for people to share their culture wherever they're coming from, I'm afraid that's going to go away and the diversity [of the industry] is going to be damaged.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137277\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137277\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-800x533.jpeg\" alt=\"Mourad Lahlou of Aziza and Mourad in San Francisco fears the pandemic and its aftermath will decimate diversity in dining. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-1020x680.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mourad Lahlou of Aziza and Mourad in San Francisco fears the pandemic and its aftermath will decimate diversity in dining. \u003ccite>(Jude Rywelski )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There were almost immoral conditions for people to be able to survive in cities like San Francisco where people could not even afford to live in the places they work. We, as a public and as operators, talked about it quite a bit, but we were never able to turn the corner on it. In return, we were squeezing everybody from the farmer to staff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote citation='Emiliana Puyana']'For some folks reopening their doors will be a similar investment to the investment they had to make when they opened their restaurant in the first place.'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Emiliana Puyana, Program Manager, La Cocina:\u003c/strong> What we've overwhelmingly seen at La Cocina is a reduction in sales and revenue, anywhere from 80% all the way up to 100%. The food industry is incredibly difficult. It's a business with such slim profit margins where seven to 10 percent is an industry standard. Commercial real estate in this town is untenable. That piece of the puzzle has played a big role in this effort to survive the crisis. The vast majority of businesses that cannot reach some sort of full rent abatement or meaningful rent negotiations with their landlords — it will be impossible [for them] to reopen. And that's not taking into account other outstanding loans that businesses might have, rehiring so many employees and restocking your kitchens. For some folks, reopening their doors will be a similar investment to the investment they had to make when they opened their restaurant in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a really difficult time, a time that puts a lot of people's livelihoods at risk. Not just the restaurant owners, but everybody that's employed within this industry. But it also allows this industry a chance to reassess and build a system that takes more factors into account. Not all restaurants are built the same. What a small mom-and-pop shop in the Mission needs might look very different than what a small mom-and-pop shop in [San Francisco's] Chinatown needs. It's not until we start really working together with the support of folks who can bring about change and fight on our behalf that we'll see the outcome we need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137278\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137278\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-800x568.png\" alt=\"Incubator La Cocina's is offering multi-meal food boxes to offset the severe fall in revenue its businesses have experienced.\" width=\"800\" height=\"568\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-800x568.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-160x114.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-768x545.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-1020x724.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung.png 1491w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Incubator La Cocina offers food boxes from its businesses to offset their revenue losses. \u003ccite>(Gene X Hwang / Orange Photography )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We are very fortunate to not have a \u003ca href=\"https://time.com/5404475/history-tipping-american-restaurants-civil-war/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">tipped minimum wage\u003c/a> here in the state of California. But at the same time, the vast majority of our employees in the food industry are not [getting] a living wage [and] restaurant owners are unable to bear any more weight on that front. I don't know what the answer is there, but it seems like we need to ensure that we have affordable housing and more of it so that we can keep folks wanting to work in this industry in our area, which was already a huge problem before this crisis hit. Will there be anybody willing to work for $15 an hour or $16 an hour, when they're going to need to be on a crowded train coming into cities to work from wherever they live in order to be able to afford housing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria Moreno, Community Organizer, Restaurant Opportunities Center\u003c/strong>: I feel really privileged and honored to be doing this work during this time. I feel like now more than ever an organization like ours has proved to be essential for workers. [We’re] getting funds out to people, answering people's critical questions [so they can] receive benefits for those who have benefits, advocating for those who don't receive any benefits, and uplifting the voice of workers from all sectors and from all socioeconomic backgrounds. It has felt really purposeful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote citation='Maria Moreno']'This industry is so fragile and there's so many people that depend on it. Why continue to pretend that it's not a professional career?'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This industry is so fragile and there's so many people that depend on it. Why continue to pretend that it's not a professional career? It is for so many. So why don't we treat it like that? I want an industry where we're considered a real professional career. We can send that message by providing paid sick time for everyone, [by] providing health benefits, by providing ways for people to save their money in the same way that other companies allow you to [make] investments.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Inequities that Predate the Pandemic\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shakirah Simley, Director of San Francisco's Office of Racial Equity: \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was a disaster before the pandemic. Public health emergencies exploit existing systemic inequalities across the board. Prior to the pandemic, one in four San Franciscans, that's over 200,000 people, were experiencing food insecurity. And now, [that] number has likely skyrocketed. We have existing food insecurity, we have people who are laid off and becoming newly food insecure. We have the particulars of the pandemics that make it hard to access food: transportation, the need to socially distance, the need to wear face covering, limitation on store hours and the impact that COVID-19 continues up the chain for our farmers, for our producers. In the Bay Area, we are surrounded by so much wealth. For us to be tackling such a baseline need and how much it has expanded is really intense.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postid='bayareabites_136549,bayareabites_136564,bayareabites_136903' label='The Food Industry Adapts']\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't think just because we open again, it's going to go back to “normal.” This society was never normal for a lot of people. It was never normal for communities of color, for LGBTQI communities, for folks who are undocumented.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vincent Medina, co-founder, Cafe Ohlone:\u003c/strong> We come from this community that's had disease imposed as a weapon and weaponized against our people in the past. When we shut down [Cafe Ohlone], we knew that we had to turn that moment into focused work for our community: making sure that our elders [had] enough food, that our grandparents had what they needed; that people knew to prepare before grocery stores would be entirely swarmed; that we were able to find ways to provide culture to our community, even if it meant digitally; finding ways to share language, [and] spend this extent of time really searching through those old archives about ways that our community has historically responded to epidemics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137275\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137275\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-800x484.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"484\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-800x484.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-160x97.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-768x464.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-1020x617.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone.png 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino have convened with Cafe Ohlone staff digitally while focusing their attention towards caring for elders in their community. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cafe Ohlone)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Our Tribe, the Muwekma Ohlone Tribe, was historically recognized by the American government, called the Verona Band Alameda County and based on the Pleasanton Rancheria, which was the sovereign piece of Indian land in Pleasanton. That's where my great grandmother was born. As a result of UC Berkeley in 1925 erroneously writing that our people were extinct, in 1927 an agent from the Bureau of Indian affairs struck our Tribe off the list of recognized tribes. Ever since then, our Tribe has been working to have that federal recognition restored. What this means [is] that we don't have a protected land base where we could be able to live together as a community. Nowadays, what we do is we negotiate relationships with park districts. We negotiated gathering permits with certain East Bay regional parks [and] we've been able to gather our foods there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Louis Trevino, co-founder, Cafe Ohlone: \u003c/strong>The East Bay Park District and the Hayward Area Recreation District and other park districts in the area deciding to close trails and parks [where it is] difficult to social distance is a responsible thing to do, but it is also a way that the park districts are exercising the ability to lock the gates. [Doing so] excludes the most local indigenous people, Vincent's family here in the East Bay, the Muwekma Ohlone Tribe, from being able to go out into their ancestral places. It sheds light on the fact that even though today we have been able to negotiate leverage positive relationships with the East Bay park park district, that relationship still exists within a colonial framework.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote citation='Vincent Medina']'In this time of a slowdown, we can really dream and imagine.'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vincent Medina: \u003c/strong>We want to make sure that we're continuing to do what we do, where we gather our foods with prayer and gratitude. We feed our community and we teach the public. But we also know that whatever we're going to do into the future, it's going to have to move slowly, carefully and cautiously. And Cafe Ohlone, it’s not going to look exactly like what it did before the shutdown where the cafe was so full that we would have to turn some people away for that time and invite them back. One of the potential outcomes of all of this could be this beautiful transformative time where a lot of those flaws that are having light shed on them can be corrected and fixed. In this time of a slowdown, we can really dream and imagine right now as we're, as we're all stuck inside. We know that our wisdom as Ohlone people and the wisdom that our elders carry and teach is more needed right now than ever. It has the ability to teach us that there's a better way forward that can transform the faltering society that we're living in, into something that's much more meaningful and richer.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Finding Solutions and Leveraging Momentum\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shakirah Simley: \u003c/strong>Sometimes what you see within pandemics is that you can be more flexible and creative in thinking about recovery. Advocates have been working for half a decade to get people to be able to buy groceries online with food stamps, and it happened in a snap. I'm hoping [we keep] the flexibility and adaptability of some of these federal and state programs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm hoping there's a greater appreciation or direct relationships with people who feed you, from restaurant owners to farmers to artisans folks to your grocer. People are asking themselves, \"If our industrial food system fails, what can I get locally to help me meet this need?\" [The answer] is built on relationships.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of our local restaurants, farmers markets and grocers have rather been extremely adaptive. That’s really powerful and I hope they're able to sustain that model and so we'd have more community, neighborhood-based feeding models. Even from aunty who lives in one housing development making plates for everybody and delivering it door to door with plates wrapped in aluminum foil. That needs to be maintained. The industry itself is stepping up and being adaptive, but there's individual people who have stepped up to feed their neighborhood, and often for free.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou: \u003c/strong>The majority of the work we've been doing with [Bay Area Hospitality Coalition] is to help the community and our fellow industry people. But at the same time, it's been good for us because we are talking to each other. It's a therapeutic session every day where we cry one day, we yell one day, we laugh one day. We're supportive of each other and it's been really wonderful. I've never been closer to my chef or hospitality community as much as I am right now. One of the ideas that I had was to ask the federal or state government to compensate us if we're mandated to open at half capacity. To compensate the other half so that we are able to pay people what we're supposed to pay them. We are able to pay our rents without being harassed. We are able to pay our purveyors, our farmers without asking them to wait 30 days or 60 days before they get a check.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137273\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137273\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Restaurant Opportunity Center's Maria Moreno is working towards safety nets for undocumented workers in the restaurant industry. \" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Restaurant Opportunity Center's Maria Moreno insists service work in the restaurant industry be treated as a career. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Maria Moreno)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria Moreno: \u003c/strong>Right now we're working on a “right to return” policy to ensure that workers who were already hired by restaurants all over the Bay Area actually have a place to come back to. And not just in restaurants, but all kinds of jobs. The policy requires [businesses] to rehire laid-off workers before hiring other people. If they only need 50% of the staff that they had before, that's okay. They just have to bring back laid-off workers who have worked there the longest and in qualifications that they need until they have as many workers as they need. It's not asking businesses to take on more than they can handle.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Personal and Corporate Accountability\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Jocelyn Jackson, co-founder of People’s Kitchen Collective:\u003c/strong> People want to say “You have my thoughts and prayers,” or there's the feeling of wanting to do the hero worship [of] the folks that are on the frontline. I appreciate the intention of that, but what doesn't happen at that celebration of their sacrifice is acknowledging that the people deeply impacted by these capitalists or profit-driven decisions are being put in harm's way. It doesn't matter if we call them heroes if they can't also be supported in their humanity. And that means having the pay that respects the value of who they are, the safety equipment that they need, the healthcare that they need, the housing. To have the visibility that's required for our economy to totally, absolutely shift forevermore away from something that invisibilizes and dehumanizes them. Folks that are getting the support like the medical community, they deserve it, absolutely they do—but are food workers getting that same support? Are they getting the offers of free meals for a year? Are they being offered hotel rooms so they can quarantine so they don't put their families at risk? No, because the disposable nature of the food community is so entrenched in the habits of this industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote citation='Jocelyn Jackson']' It doesn't matter if we call them heroes if they can't also be supported in their humanity.'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Accountability is often achieved through watchdog groups—people taking the initiative and the personal responsibility to hold corporations accountable for their actions. There needs to be a new wave of that in the activist world. It's not simply mutual aid. It's not just the activism of protest. It's not an easy task. [But] it's essential because we're using this phrase “essential workers,” and it feels like a misnomer because of the treatment that they're experiencing. The essential quality is their humanity and for that to be lifted up and for that to be amplified is one of the biggest parts of re-shaping the food community so that it is supportive of everyone at every level and not filled with the dynamics of disposability.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137274\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137274\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">People's Kitchen Collective founders Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson have spent the past 10 years imagining and working towards more equitable food systems. \u003ccite>(Sana Javeri Kadri)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik, co-founder, People’s Kitchen Collective: \u003c/strong>We don't want this to return to the way things were, and it can’t. [People’s Kitchen Collective] is always in a state of change, but I think that in times of crisis, we are more ourselves and the problems bubble up in neon in a way that they demand more of our attention. As we make decisions about how it is that we feed ourselves and each other, one of the biggest challenges for me in this pandemic is the ways we are used to supporting our community could also be harmful in terms of gathering in large numbers. We're planning for future events including Life is Living and looking to distribute food instead of gathering together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have both hope and disillusionment around [the future]. I do think that this moment is about the alienation of labor laid bare and what that means for restoring our whole selves as people. [I] think about this question that a former student of mine, Marianna Martinez, asked me: “What are our jobs outside of capitalism?” What are we really meant to be doing? Are we meant to be caring for an elder in our family? Are we meant to be a writer? Are we meant to help people start gardens? How can more of our lives be taken up with the activities where we are the brightest? I would ask that if you are a person who is waiting for things to go back to normal, to think about all of the people for whom that is not true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's about asking those questions and they're difficult to reckon with in the face of so much real loss and real fear. It is so important to think about our collective survival in a way that truly supports, not just any one person, but how we can get there together because that's the only way we're going to get there.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Chefs and organizers respond to COVID-19 and imagine what future awaits the food industry. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621634313,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":35,"wordCount":3353},"headData":{"title":"The Bay Area Restaurant System Was Always Broken. How Do We Fix It? | KQED","description":"Chefs and organizers respond to COVID-19 and imagine what future awaits the food industry. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"137260 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=137260","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/05/19/the-bay-area-restaurant-system-was-always-broken-how-do-we-fix-it/","disqusTitle":"The Bay Area Restaurant System Was Always Broken. How Do We Fix It?","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/137260/the-bay-area-restaurant-system-was-always-broken-how-do-we-fix-it","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Before the COVID-19 pandemic, the Bay Area \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">food\u003c/span> industry was in a quiet but persistent crisis. The majority of \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">restaurant\u003c/span> workers earned far below a living wage for the region, even for jobs with tips factored in. Steadily rising residential and commercial rents meant that \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">restaurant\u003c/span> owners swallowed slim margins as an industry standard that would outlive their ambitions. Farmworkers across the state toiled from dusk until dawn with no employer or government safety nets to count on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then the pandemic hit and “everything changed,” said Mourad Lahlou, the chef and owner of Mourad and Aziza in San Francisco. “It shattered what was solid, and it exposed what was weak.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From farms to restaurants and workers, there’s a lot of uncertainty that hangs over food systems and its fragile infrastructure. Amidst the crisis, is there potential to rebuild a more equitable food industry? What solutions could address the flaws that predate the pandemic? These are the questions we asked seven Bay Area food figures who are grappling with long-lived issues magnified by a new reality.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Restaurant Dilemma\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou, chef and owner of Mourad and Aziza\u003cem>: \u003c/em>\u003c/strong>The problem is not so much when we're going to be able to open our restaurants again. What's going to happen is they're going to let us open at half capacity. People are going to be freaked out about sitting around other people. We're going to start taking temperatures of people who come in. We're going to start wearing gloves and masks and have disposable menus as if we were a business that had a big margin where we can afford to do these things. Our rent is going to be the same. The insurance companies are going to charge the same premiums. Minimum wage is still the same. It's incomprehensible to even think that anybody is going to survive this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If we don't really address these issues now in a very forceful way, I truly believe that the impact of this is going to last way beyond the vaccine or the eradication of this pandemic. That's what keeps me up at night. It’s so scary to me that only the big corporations are going to have the means and the possibility to open restaurants whenever they want, wherever they want. That desire for people to share their culture wherever they're coming from, I'm afraid that's going to go away and the diversity [of the industry] is going to be damaged.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137277\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137277\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-800x533.jpeg\" alt=\"Mourad Lahlou of Aziza and Mourad in San Francisco fears the pandemic and its aftermath will decimate diversity in dining. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-1020x680.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mourad Lahlou of Aziza and Mourad in San Francisco fears the pandemic and its aftermath will decimate diversity in dining. \u003ccite>(Jude Rywelski )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There were almost immoral conditions for people to be able to survive in cities like San Francisco where people could not even afford to live in the places they work. We, as a public and as operators, talked about it quite a bit, but we were never able to turn the corner on it. In return, we were squeezing everybody from the farmer to staff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"'For some folks reopening their doors will be a similar investment to the investment they had to make when they opened their restaurant in the first place.'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"citation":"Emiliana Puyana","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Emiliana Puyana, Program Manager, La Cocina:\u003c/strong> What we've overwhelmingly seen at La Cocina is a reduction in sales and revenue, anywhere from 80% all the way up to 100%. The food industry is incredibly difficult. It's a business with such slim profit margins where seven to 10 percent is an industry standard. Commercial real estate in this town is untenable. That piece of the puzzle has played a big role in this effort to survive the crisis. The vast majority of businesses that cannot reach some sort of full rent abatement or meaningful rent negotiations with their landlords — it will be impossible [for them] to reopen. And that's not taking into account other outstanding loans that businesses might have, rehiring so many employees and restocking your kitchens. For some folks, reopening their doors will be a similar investment to the investment they had to make when they opened their restaurant in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a really difficult time, a time that puts a lot of people's livelihoods at risk. Not just the restaurant owners, but everybody that's employed within this industry. But it also allows this industry a chance to reassess and build a system that takes more factors into account. Not all restaurants are built the same. What a small mom-and-pop shop in the Mission needs might look very different than what a small mom-and-pop shop in [San Francisco's] Chinatown needs. It's not until we start really working together with the support of folks who can bring about change and fight on our behalf that we'll see the outcome we need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137278\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137278\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-800x568.png\" alt=\"Incubator La Cocina's is offering multi-meal food boxes to offset the severe fall in revenue its businesses have experienced.\" width=\"800\" height=\"568\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-800x568.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-160x114.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-768x545.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-1020x724.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung.png 1491w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Incubator La Cocina offers food boxes from its businesses to offset their revenue losses. \u003ccite>(Gene X Hwang / Orange Photography )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We are very fortunate to not have a \u003ca href=\"https://time.com/5404475/history-tipping-american-restaurants-civil-war/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">tipped minimum wage\u003c/a> here in the state of California. But at the same time, the vast majority of our employees in the food industry are not [getting] a living wage [and] restaurant owners are unable to bear any more weight on that front. I don't know what the answer is there, but it seems like we need to ensure that we have affordable housing and more of it so that we can keep folks wanting to work in this industry in our area, which was already a huge problem before this crisis hit. Will there be anybody willing to work for $15 an hour or $16 an hour, when they're going to need to be on a crowded train coming into cities to work from wherever they live in order to be able to afford housing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria Moreno, Community Organizer, Restaurant Opportunities Center\u003c/strong>: I feel really privileged and honored to be doing this work during this time. I feel like now more than ever an organization like ours has proved to be essential for workers. [We’re] getting funds out to people, answering people's critical questions [so they can] receive benefits for those who have benefits, advocating for those who don't receive any benefits, and uplifting the voice of workers from all sectors and from all socioeconomic backgrounds. It has felt really purposeful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"'This industry is so fragile and there's so many people that depend on it. Why continue to pretend that it's not a professional career?'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"citation":"Maria Moreno","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This industry is so fragile and there's so many people that depend on it. Why continue to pretend that it's not a professional career? It is for so many. So why don't we treat it like that? I want an industry where we're considered a real professional career. We can send that message by providing paid sick time for everyone, [by] providing health benefits, by providing ways for people to save their money in the same way that other companies allow you to [make] investments.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Inequities that Predate the Pandemic\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shakirah Simley, Director of San Francisco's Office of Racial Equity: \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was a disaster before the pandemic. Public health emergencies exploit existing systemic inequalities across the board. Prior to the pandemic, one in four San Franciscans, that's over 200,000 people, were experiencing food insecurity. And now, [that] number has likely skyrocketed. We have existing food insecurity, we have people who are laid off and becoming newly food insecure. We have the particulars of the pandemics that make it hard to access food: transportation, the need to socially distance, the need to wear face covering, limitation on store hours and the impact that COVID-19 continues up the chain for our farmers, for our producers. In the Bay Area, we are surrounded by so much wealth. For us to be tackling such a baseline need and how much it has expanded is really intense.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_136549,bayareabites_136564,bayareabites_136903","label":"The Food Industry Adapts "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't think just because we open again, it's going to go back to “normal.” This society was never normal for a lot of people. It was never normal for communities of color, for LGBTQI communities, for folks who are undocumented.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vincent Medina, co-founder, Cafe Ohlone:\u003c/strong> We come from this community that's had disease imposed as a weapon and weaponized against our people in the past. When we shut down [Cafe Ohlone], we knew that we had to turn that moment into focused work for our community: making sure that our elders [had] enough food, that our grandparents had what they needed; that people knew to prepare before grocery stores would be entirely swarmed; that we were able to find ways to provide culture to our community, even if it meant digitally; finding ways to share language, [and] spend this extent of time really searching through those old archives about ways that our community has historically responded to epidemics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137275\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137275\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-800x484.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"484\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-800x484.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-160x97.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-768x464.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-1020x617.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone.png 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino have convened with Cafe Ohlone staff digitally while focusing their attention towards caring for elders in their community. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cafe Ohlone)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Our Tribe, the Muwekma Ohlone Tribe, was historically recognized by the American government, called the Verona Band Alameda County and based on the Pleasanton Rancheria, which was the sovereign piece of Indian land in Pleasanton. That's where my great grandmother was born. As a result of UC Berkeley in 1925 erroneously writing that our people were extinct, in 1927 an agent from the Bureau of Indian affairs struck our Tribe off the list of recognized tribes. Ever since then, our Tribe has been working to have that federal recognition restored. What this means [is] that we don't have a protected land base where we could be able to live together as a community. Nowadays, what we do is we negotiate relationships with park districts. We negotiated gathering permits with certain East Bay regional parks [and] we've been able to gather our foods there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Louis Trevino, co-founder, Cafe Ohlone: \u003c/strong>The East Bay Park District and the Hayward Area Recreation District and other park districts in the area deciding to close trails and parks [where it is] difficult to social distance is a responsible thing to do, but it is also a way that the park districts are exercising the ability to lock the gates. [Doing so] excludes the most local indigenous people, Vincent's family here in the East Bay, the Muwekma Ohlone Tribe, from being able to go out into their ancestral places. It sheds light on the fact that even though today we have been able to negotiate leverage positive relationships with the East Bay park park district, that relationship still exists within a colonial framework.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"'In this time of a slowdown, we can really dream and imagine.'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"citation":"Vincent Medina","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vincent Medina: \u003c/strong>We want to make sure that we're continuing to do what we do, where we gather our foods with prayer and gratitude. We feed our community and we teach the public. But we also know that whatever we're going to do into the future, it's going to have to move slowly, carefully and cautiously. And Cafe Ohlone, it’s not going to look exactly like what it did before the shutdown where the cafe was so full that we would have to turn some people away for that time and invite them back. One of the potential outcomes of all of this could be this beautiful transformative time where a lot of those flaws that are having light shed on them can be corrected and fixed. In this time of a slowdown, we can really dream and imagine right now as we're, as we're all stuck inside. We know that our wisdom as Ohlone people and the wisdom that our elders carry and teach is more needed right now than ever. It has the ability to teach us that there's a better way forward that can transform the faltering society that we're living in, into something that's much more meaningful and richer.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Finding Solutions and Leveraging Momentum\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shakirah Simley: \u003c/strong>Sometimes what you see within pandemics is that you can be more flexible and creative in thinking about recovery. Advocates have been working for half a decade to get people to be able to buy groceries online with food stamps, and it happened in a snap. I'm hoping [we keep] the flexibility and adaptability of some of these federal and state programs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm hoping there's a greater appreciation or direct relationships with people who feed you, from restaurant owners to farmers to artisans folks to your grocer. People are asking themselves, \"If our industrial food system fails, what can I get locally to help me meet this need?\" [The answer] is built on relationships.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of our local restaurants, farmers markets and grocers have rather been extremely adaptive. That’s really powerful and I hope they're able to sustain that model and so we'd have more community, neighborhood-based feeding models. Even from aunty who lives in one housing development making plates for everybody and delivering it door to door with plates wrapped in aluminum foil. That needs to be maintained. The industry itself is stepping up and being adaptive, but there's individual people who have stepped up to feed their neighborhood, and often for free.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou: \u003c/strong>The majority of the work we've been doing with [Bay Area Hospitality Coalition] is to help the community and our fellow industry people. But at the same time, it's been good for us because we are talking to each other. It's a therapeutic session every day where we cry one day, we yell one day, we laugh one day. We're supportive of each other and it's been really wonderful. I've never been closer to my chef or hospitality community as much as I am right now. One of the ideas that I had was to ask the federal or state government to compensate us if we're mandated to open at half capacity. To compensate the other half so that we are able to pay people what we're supposed to pay them. We are able to pay our rents without being harassed. We are able to pay our purveyors, our farmers without asking them to wait 30 days or 60 days before they get a check.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137273\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137273\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Restaurant Opportunity Center's Maria Moreno is working towards safety nets for undocumented workers in the restaurant industry. \" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Restaurant Opportunity Center's Maria Moreno insists service work in the restaurant industry be treated as a career. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Maria Moreno)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria Moreno: \u003c/strong>Right now we're working on a “right to return” policy to ensure that workers who were already hired by restaurants all over the Bay Area actually have a place to come back to. And not just in restaurants, but all kinds of jobs. The policy requires [businesses] to rehire laid-off workers before hiring other people. If they only need 50% of the staff that they had before, that's okay. They just have to bring back laid-off workers who have worked there the longest and in qualifications that they need until they have as many workers as they need. It's not asking businesses to take on more than they can handle.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Personal and Corporate Accountability\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Jocelyn Jackson, co-founder of People’s Kitchen Collective:\u003c/strong> People want to say “You have my thoughts and prayers,” or there's the feeling of wanting to do the hero worship [of] the folks that are on the frontline. I appreciate the intention of that, but what doesn't happen at that celebration of their sacrifice is acknowledging that the people deeply impacted by these capitalists or profit-driven decisions are being put in harm's way. It doesn't matter if we call them heroes if they can't also be supported in their humanity. And that means having the pay that respects the value of who they are, the safety equipment that they need, the healthcare that they need, the housing. To have the visibility that's required for our economy to totally, absolutely shift forevermore away from something that invisibilizes and dehumanizes them. Folks that are getting the support like the medical community, they deserve it, absolutely they do—but are food workers getting that same support? Are they getting the offers of free meals for a year? Are they being offered hotel rooms so they can quarantine so they don't put their families at risk? No, because the disposable nature of the food community is so entrenched in the habits of this industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"' It doesn't matter if we call them heroes if they can't also be supported in their humanity.'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"citation":"Jocelyn Jackson","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Accountability is often achieved through watchdog groups—people taking the initiative and the personal responsibility to hold corporations accountable for their actions. There needs to be a new wave of that in the activist world. It's not simply mutual aid. It's not just the activism of protest. It's not an easy task. [But] it's essential because we're using this phrase “essential workers,” and it feels like a misnomer because of the treatment that they're experiencing. The essential quality is their humanity and for that to be lifted up and for that to be amplified is one of the biggest parts of re-shaping the food community so that it is supportive of everyone at every level and not filled with the dynamics of disposability.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137274\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137274\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">People's Kitchen Collective founders Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson have spent the past 10 years imagining and working towards more equitable food systems. \u003ccite>(Sana Javeri Kadri)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik, co-founder, People’s Kitchen Collective: \u003c/strong>We don't want this to return to the way things were, and it can’t. [People’s Kitchen Collective] is always in a state of change, but I think that in times of crisis, we are more ourselves and the problems bubble up in neon in a way that they demand more of our attention. As we make decisions about how it is that we feed ourselves and each other, one of the biggest challenges for me in this pandemic is the ways we are used to supporting our community could also be harmful in terms of gathering in large numbers. We're planning for future events including Life is Living and looking to distribute food instead of gathering together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have both hope and disillusionment around [the future]. I do think that this moment is about the alienation of labor laid bare and what that means for restoring our whole selves as people. [I] think about this question that a former student of mine, Marianna Martinez, asked me: “What are our jobs outside of capitalism?” What are we really meant to be doing? Are we meant to be caring for an elder in our family? Are we meant to be a writer? Are we meant to help people start gardens? How can more of our lives be taken up with the activities where we are the brightest? I would ask that if you are a person who is waiting for things to go back to normal, to think about all of the people for whom that is not true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's about asking those questions and they're difficult to reckon with in the face of so much real loss and real fear. It is so important to think about our collective survival in a way that truly supports, not just any one person, but how we can get there together because that's the only way we're going to get there.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/137260/the-bay-area-restaurant-system-was-always-broken-how-do-we-fix-it","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_17082","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_595","bayareabites_16607","bayareabites_16575","bayareabites_16557","bayareabites_16603","bayareabites_16604","bayareabites_295","bayareabites_16605","bayareabites_8790","bayareabites_289","bayareabites_16602","bayareabites_15822","bayareabites_16606","bayareabites_16608","bayareabites_8577"],"featImg":"bayareabites_137282","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_116718":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_116718","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"116718","score":null,"sort":[1492102241000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"la-cocinas-voices-from-the-kitchen-speak-passionately-on-race","title":"La Cocina's 'Voices from the Kitchen' Speak Passionately on Race","publishDate":1492102241,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116767\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1050px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116767\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd-.jpg\" alt=\"A full house of engaged audience members learn from Voices from the Kitchen.\" width=\"1050\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd-.jpg 1050w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1050px) 100vw, 1050px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A full house of engaged audience members learn from Voices from the Kitchen. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/JenBaxterSF/\">@JenBaxterSF\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/\" target=\"_blank\">F&B: Voices from the Kitchen\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/\" target=\"_blank\">La Cocina\u003c/a>’s latest storytelling performance on April 7 at The Swedish American Hall featured the impassioned words of more than a dozen chefs, poets, writers, historians and activists on the topic of \u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/storytellers-1-1/\">\u003cstrong>Race\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. The evening started with food and drinks from both well-known chefs and a couple of graduates from La Cocina’s Incubator program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Some highlights from the two-hour performance:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116768\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116768\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"People’s Kitchen Collective: Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson inspired the crowd with their words and songs.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1384\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-160x115.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-800x577.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-768x554.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-1020x735.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-1180x851.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-960x692.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-240x173.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-375x270.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-520x375.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">People’s Kitchen Collective: Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson inspired the crowd with their words and songs. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Co-founders of the \u003ca href=\"http://peopleskitchencollective.com/\">People’s Kitchen Collective\u003c/a> (PKC) Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson entered from the audience, while Jackson sang in a deep throaty voice, “We who believe in freedom cannot rest…until it’s found.” Then all three alternated with a barrage of wisdom: “We have so much fucking faith in the power of food to fix everything.” “For centuries, food has been a weapon...keeping us stuffed and starved.” “Food deserts are not a naturally occurring phenomenon.” “Food is a strategy for resistance.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116769\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116769\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"The PKC shared the story of the Black Panther Party's hugely successful Free Breakfast Program.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1502\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-160x125.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-800x626.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-768x601.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-1020x798.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-1180x923.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-960x751.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-240x188.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-375x293.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-520x407.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The PKC shared the story of the Black Panther Party's hugely successful Free Breakfast Program. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As inspiration, they described the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/independentlens/videos/free-breakfast-program/\">Black Panther Party’s Free Breakfast for School Children program\u003c/a> that began in Oakland in 1969 and in a few years fed over 100,000 children nationwide. It was so successful that it inspired fear in J. Edgar Hoover, the head of the FBI, who called it “the most dangerous domestic threat to national security.” The PKC explained that while the state was trying to keep food out of the hands of black and brown children, the Black Panther Party viewed breakfast as an active tool of resistance. The breakfast program was revolutionary. And now there are free breakfast and lunch programs in schools. Why don't they come with a history lesson? they ask. Why don’t we teach children the roots of that meal?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The three co-founders of the PKC then challenged the so-called “Farm to Table” movement to acknowledge that food does not magically make it from the farm to the table without the toil of people in the middle. It would be more accurately termed “Farm to Kitchen to Table.” And why, they asked, should this food be enjoyed only in restaurants? The meal can’t end at the table. It should be accessible to all people, so a better motto would be “Farm to Kitchen to Table to Streets.” And they exhorted the audience to take this message out on the streets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116770\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116770\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW.jpg\" alt='Bonnie Tsui showed some of the offensive names used for the supposedly \"Asian salad\" that is a mainstay on restaurant menus all over the country.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1607\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-160x134.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-800x670.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-768x643.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-1020x854.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-1180x988.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-960x804.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-240x201.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-375x314.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-520x435.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bonnie Tsui showed some of the offensive names used for the supposedly \"Asian salad\" that is a mainstay on restaurant menus all over the country. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Journalist \u003ca href=\"http://www.bonnietsui.com/\">Bonnie Tsui\u003c/a> shared her quest to solve “the curious case of the Asian salad,” a dish cooked up by non-Asians, which is so common on a swath of American restaurant menus that we don’t even question its Asian-ness. The mystery stems from its raw vegetable ingredients, which are not traditionally served in China. In the popular imagination, adding soy sauce or sesame oil somehow transforms it to being “Asian.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Tsui’s issue with this ubiquitous dish is less with its supposedly “Asian” ingredients and more with the variety of offensive names with which it is labeled at places like TGIFridays, Cheesecake Factory, Rainforest Café, and Applebee's. She showed slides of menus with names like “Asian Emperor salad,” “Oriental chop chop,” “Mr. Mao’s” and “secret Asian man.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though the subject is just salad, Tsui views the use of broad terms to reference an entire continent as stereotypical. The problem is that the words are a blind spot for white people who don’t consider themselves racist. And even with a bowl of salad, words do matter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116773\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116773\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW.jpg\" alt='Three members of the woman-led collaborative of people of color, Nourish/Resist, who spoke about micro-aggressions, macro-impact, \"staying woke\" and creating safe spaces.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1285\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-800x535.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-768x514.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-1020x683.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-1180x790.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-960x643.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-240x161.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-375x251.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-520x348.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Members of the woman-led collaborative of people of color, Nourish/Resist, urged people to disrupt micro-aggressions. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Three members of the \u003ca href=\"https://nourishresist.org/\">woman-led collaborative\u003c/a> of people of color, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/04/04/fighting-trump-one-delicious-meal-at-a-time-with-nourishresist/\">Nourish/Resist\u003c/a>, encouraged audience members to check their language and privilege, \"stay woke\" and create safe spaces for stories of struggle and survival. They use food as a tool for resistance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116765\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 467px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116765\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2.jpg\" alt=\"Culinary historian Michael Twitty shares stories from his childhood that ultimately led him to focus on preparing, preserving and promoting African American foodways.\" width=\"467\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2.jpg 467w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2-375x562.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 467px) 100vw, 467px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Culinary historian Michael Twitty shares stories from his childhood that ultimately led him to focus on preparing, preserving and promoting African American foodways. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/JenBaxterSF/\">@JenBaxterSF\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Culinary historian Michael Twitty, author of the award-winning blog \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/\">Afroculinaria\u003c/a>, recounted that as a kid, he hated soul food and hated being black, even though he was “the great-grandson of Jim Crow people.” If he didn’t like The Wiz, of course, he hated collard greens and chitterlings. He called okra “an instrument of Black medieval torture” and longed for fast food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until one day when his grandmother said, “we’re gonna make some lemonade” and started singing a song “lemonade, lemonade, made in the shade, stirred with a spade…” When he asked her about the song she told him it was a slave song passed down from her great-grandfather who was born into slavery. That piqued his curiosity and once he started asking questions, “the kitchen was filled with ancestors and I got to meet them.” He also learned the stories behind the iconic dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Chitterlings was the story of using the whole animal. People who had nothing could waste nothing. Collard greens represented strength.” When his grandmother said “we carried okra seeds in our hair,” he understood, that while seeds may not have literally been carried in hair, “they represent the seeds for everything we had carried in our heads and you couldn’t take that away from us.” So in teaching him about food, his grandmother taught him his own black history. As Twitty put it, “Teaching me not to hate my soul, but how to love it. “\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116771\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116771\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Saru Jayaraman of ROC exhorts the crowd to take action to end low wages, unfair practices and segregation in the restaurant industry.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"730\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-160x117.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-800x584.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-768x561.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-960x701.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-240x175.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-375x274.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-520x380.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Saru Jayaraman of ROC exhorts the crowd to take action to end low wages, unfair practices and segregation in the restaurant industry. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In her talk, entitled \"On Ending Jim Crow In The Bay Area Restaurant Industry,\" Saru Jayaraman of \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/\">ROC United\u003c/a> (Restaurant Opportunities Centers United) discussed her organization’s goal to improve wages and working conditions for the nation’s 12 million restaurant workers. She reminded the audience that while white men can earn $150,000/year as fine dining servers or bartenders, the majority of food service workers are the lowest paid of all employees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jayaraman also shared the shocking news that numerous surveys in cities across the U.S. have found that the largest race-based wage gap in the country is found right here in the Bay Area, where there is a $5.50/hour gap between white workers and workers of color. “We are better than this,\" she told the audience. “We think we are progressive, but we are not and we participate in segregation every time we eat out. Each of us has to take a part in changing the way we eat out.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then she introduced noted chef, restaurateur and author \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_Patterson_(chef)\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a>, who is spearheading a project with other chefs to desegregate their kitchens and collaborate on the \u003ca href=\"http://www.eastbayexpress.com/WhatTheFork/archives/2016/02/16/a-nonprofit-restaurant-in-east-oakland-will-aim-to-prioritize-people-over-profits\">upcoming COLORS restaurant\u003c/a> in Oakland. Located near the Fruitvale BART station, it will train hundred of workers of color. Patterson wants to create a model for standardizing hiring and promotions because “as long as there is implicit bias, you can train all the workers in the world but they will never get hired.” His goal is to change the face of fine dining “until fine dining does not resemble Trump's America.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1050px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116766\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2.jpg\" alt=\"Stephanie Fields shares her stories of growing up in the rural South and discovering La Cocina, where she got support for her business Sugarfoot.\" width=\"1050\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2.jpg 1050w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1050px) 100vw, 1050px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stephanie Fields shares her stories of growing up in the rural South and discovering La Cocina, where she got support for her business Sugarfoot. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/JenBaxterSF/\">@JenBaxterSF\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One of the most compelling stories of the evening was delivered by Stephanie Fields, of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sugarfootkitchen.com\">Sugarfoot Kitchen\u003c/a>, a “Southern comfort catering company,” and a graduate of La Cocina. Her pepper jelly turkey meatballs were a standout at the pre-show food tasting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fields described her hometown of Henderson, North Carolina in the rural South, a place where the working poor are disillusioned and angry and 36% of residents live in poverty. In a town where 60% of the population is Black, she told us, “You can still call up the KKK for your daily dose of hate from Grand Wizard Mr. Bobbit (and she played his offensive phone recording to prove it). While her family often used the n-word in anger, Fields grew up with friends from both cultures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116774\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116774\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Stephanie Fields' moist and flavorful pepper turkey meatballs were a crowd pleaser.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stephanie Fields' moist and flavorful pepper turkey meatballs were a crowd pleaser. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She started her business through La Cocina’s incubator program in 2013 and plans to open her Southern restaurant in San Francisco’s Portola district this fall. But Fields confessed that a crisis of conscience almost caused her to close Sugarfoot just one month after she opened it. It happened when she read an open letter that Michael Twitty penned to \u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/06/19/paula-deen-racist-comments-n-word-caught-on-video_n_3467287.html\">Paula Deen after the uproar\u003c/a> about her use of racist comments. He wrote, “We are surrounded by culinary injustice where some Southerners take credit for things that enslaved Africans and their descendants played key roles in disseminating.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fields stated, “I had to make a choice not to be “some southerner.” After reading Twitty’s words, she realized that there would be no Southern food without slavery and wondered if she could still claim the food she grew up on -- the okra, collard greens and cheese grits -- as her own. After doing research and talking to friends across race and gender lines, she decided, “I am Southern and I had to eat something.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She also realized: “I cannot undo the pain, undo the shame and undo the history, but what I can do is acknowledge where this food comes from and I can be grateful and be kind.” “Empathy,” she added, “is being a member of a tribe that isn’t yours, but still is.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The next \u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/\">F&B: Voices from the Kitchen\u003c/a> event will be on October 19 with the theme: \u003cstrong>Refuge\u003c/strong>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"La Cocina’s stirring storytelling performance on Race had writers, historians and activists discussing the connection between food and resistance. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1492474573,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":23,"wordCount":1821},"headData":{"title":"La Cocina's 'Voices from the Kitchen' Speak Passionately on Race | KQED","description":"La Cocina’s stirring storytelling performance on Race had writers, historians and activists discussing the connection between food and resistance. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"116718 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=116718","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/04/13/la-cocinas-voices-from-the-kitchen-speak-passionately-on-race/","disqusTitle":"La Cocina's 'Voices from the Kitchen' Speak Passionately on Race","source":"Politics & Activism","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/politics-activism-food-safety/","path":"/bayareabites/116718/la-cocinas-voices-from-the-kitchen-speak-passionately-on-race","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116767\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1050px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116767\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd-.jpg\" alt=\"A full house of engaged audience members learn from Voices from the Kitchen.\" width=\"1050\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd-.jpg 1050w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1050px) 100vw, 1050px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A full house of engaged audience members learn from Voices from the Kitchen. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/JenBaxterSF/\">@JenBaxterSF\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/\" target=\"_blank\">F&B: Voices from the Kitchen\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/\" target=\"_blank\">La Cocina\u003c/a>’s latest storytelling performance on April 7 at The Swedish American Hall featured the impassioned words of more than a dozen chefs, poets, writers, historians and activists on the topic of \u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/storytellers-1-1/\">\u003cstrong>Race\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. The evening started with food and drinks from both well-known chefs and a couple of graduates from La Cocina’s Incubator program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Some highlights from the two-hour performance:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116768\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116768\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"People’s Kitchen Collective: Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson inspired the crowd with their words and songs.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1384\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-160x115.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-800x577.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-768x554.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-1020x735.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-1180x851.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-960x692.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-240x173.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-375x270.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-520x375.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">People’s Kitchen Collective: Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson inspired the crowd with their words and songs. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Co-founders of the \u003ca href=\"http://peopleskitchencollective.com/\">People’s Kitchen Collective\u003c/a> (PKC) Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson entered from the audience, while Jackson sang in a deep throaty voice, “We who believe in freedom cannot rest…until it’s found.” Then all three alternated with a barrage of wisdom: “We have so much fucking faith in the power of food to fix everything.” “For centuries, food has been a weapon...keeping us stuffed and starved.” “Food deserts are not a naturally occurring phenomenon.” “Food is a strategy for resistance.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116769\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116769\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"The PKC shared the story of the Black Panther Party's hugely successful Free Breakfast Program.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1502\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-160x125.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-800x626.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-768x601.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-1020x798.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-1180x923.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-960x751.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-240x188.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-375x293.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-520x407.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The PKC shared the story of the Black Panther Party's hugely successful Free Breakfast Program. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As inspiration, they described the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/independentlens/videos/free-breakfast-program/\">Black Panther Party’s Free Breakfast for School Children program\u003c/a> that began in Oakland in 1969 and in a few years fed over 100,000 children nationwide. It was so successful that it inspired fear in J. Edgar Hoover, the head of the FBI, who called it “the most dangerous domestic threat to national security.” The PKC explained that while the state was trying to keep food out of the hands of black and brown children, the Black Panther Party viewed breakfast as an active tool of resistance. The breakfast program was revolutionary. And now there are free breakfast and lunch programs in schools. Why don't they come with a history lesson? they ask. Why don’t we teach children the roots of that meal?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The three co-founders of the PKC then challenged the so-called “Farm to Table” movement to acknowledge that food does not magically make it from the farm to the table without the toil of people in the middle. It would be more accurately termed “Farm to Kitchen to Table.” And why, they asked, should this food be enjoyed only in restaurants? The meal can’t end at the table. It should be accessible to all people, so a better motto would be “Farm to Kitchen to Table to Streets.” And they exhorted the audience to take this message out on the streets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116770\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116770\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW.jpg\" alt='Bonnie Tsui showed some of the offensive names used for the supposedly \"Asian salad\" that is a mainstay on restaurant menus all over the country.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1607\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-160x134.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-800x670.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-768x643.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-1020x854.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-1180x988.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-960x804.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-240x201.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-375x314.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-520x435.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bonnie Tsui showed some of the offensive names used for the supposedly \"Asian salad\" that is a mainstay on restaurant menus all over the country. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Journalist \u003ca href=\"http://www.bonnietsui.com/\">Bonnie Tsui\u003c/a> shared her quest to solve “the curious case of the Asian salad,” a dish cooked up by non-Asians, which is so common on a swath of American restaurant menus that we don’t even question its Asian-ness. The mystery stems from its raw vegetable ingredients, which are not traditionally served in China. In the popular imagination, adding soy sauce or sesame oil somehow transforms it to being “Asian.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Tsui’s issue with this ubiquitous dish is less with its supposedly “Asian” ingredients and more with the variety of offensive names with which it is labeled at places like TGIFridays, Cheesecake Factory, Rainforest Café, and Applebee's. She showed slides of menus with names like “Asian Emperor salad,” “Oriental chop chop,” “Mr. Mao’s” and “secret Asian man.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though the subject is just salad, Tsui views the use of broad terms to reference an entire continent as stereotypical. The problem is that the words are a blind spot for white people who don’t consider themselves racist. And even with a bowl of salad, words do matter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116773\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116773\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW.jpg\" alt='Three members of the woman-led collaborative of people of color, Nourish/Resist, who spoke about micro-aggressions, macro-impact, \"staying woke\" and creating safe spaces.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1285\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-800x535.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-768x514.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-1020x683.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-1180x790.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-960x643.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-240x161.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-375x251.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-520x348.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Members of the woman-led collaborative of people of color, Nourish/Resist, urged people to disrupt micro-aggressions. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Three members of the \u003ca href=\"https://nourishresist.org/\">woman-led collaborative\u003c/a> of people of color, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/04/04/fighting-trump-one-delicious-meal-at-a-time-with-nourishresist/\">Nourish/Resist\u003c/a>, encouraged audience members to check their language and privilege, \"stay woke\" and create safe spaces for stories of struggle and survival. They use food as a tool for resistance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116765\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 467px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116765\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2.jpg\" alt=\"Culinary historian Michael Twitty shares stories from his childhood that ultimately led him to focus on preparing, preserving and promoting African American foodways.\" width=\"467\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2.jpg 467w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2-375x562.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 467px) 100vw, 467px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Culinary historian Michael Twitty shares stories from his childhood that ultimately led him to focus on preparing, preserving and promoting African American foodways. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/JenBaxterSF/\">@JenBaxterSF\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Culinary historian Michael Twitty, author of the award-winning blog \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/\">Afroculinaria\u003c/a>, recounted that as a kid, he hated soul food and hated being black, even though he was “the great-grandson of Jim Crow people.” If he didn’t like The Wiz, of course, he hated collard greens and chitterlings. He called okra “an instrument of Black medieval torture” and longed for fast food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until one day when his grandmother said, “we’re gonna make some lemonade” and started singing a song “lemonade, lemonade, made in the shade, stirred with a spade…” When he asked her about the song she told him it was a slave song passed down from her great-grandfather who was born into slavery. That piqued his curiosity and once he started asking questions, “the kitchen was filled with ancestors and I got to meet them.” He also learned the stories behind the iconic dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Chitterlings was the story of using the whole animal. People who had nothing could waste nothing. Collard greens represented strength.” When his grandmother said “we carried okra seeds in our hair,” he understood, that while seeds may not have literally been carried in hair, “they represent the seeds for everything we had carried in our heads and you couldn’t take that away from us.” So in teaching him about food, his grandmother taught him his own black history. As Twitty put it, “Teaching me not to hate my soul, but how to love it. “\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116771\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116771\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Saru Jayaraman of ROC exhorts the crowd to take action to end low wages, unfair practices and segregation in the restaurant industry.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"730\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-160x117.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-800x584.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-768x561.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-960x701.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-240x175.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-375x274.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-520x380.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Saru Jayaraman of ROC exhorts the crowd to take action to end low wages, unfair practices and segregation in the restaurant industry. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In her talk, entitled \"On Ending Jim Crow In The Bay Area Restaurant Industry,\" Saru Jayaraman of \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/\">ROC United\u003c/a> (Restaurant Opportunities Centers United) discussed her organization’s goal to improve wages and working conditions for the nation’s 12 million restaurant workers. She reminded the audience that while white men can earn $150,000/year as fine dining servers or bartenders, the majority of food service workers are the lowest paid of all employees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jayaraman also shared the shocking news that numerous surveys in cities across the U.S. have found that the largest race-based wage gap in the country is found right here in the Bay Area, where there is a $5.50/hour gap between white workers and workers of color. “We are better than this,\" she told the audience. “We think we are progressive, but we are not and we participate in segregation every time we eat out. Each of us has to take a part in changing the way we eat out.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then she introduced noted chef, restaurateur and author \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_Patterson_(chef)\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a>, who is spearheading a project with other chefs to desegregate their kitchens and collaborate on the \u003ca href=\"http://www.eastbayexpress.com/WhatTheFork/archives/2016/02/16/a-nonprofit-restaurant-in-east-oakland-will-aim-to-prioritize-people-over-profits\">upcoming COLORS restaurant\u003c/a> in Oakland. Located near the Fruitvale BART station, it will train hundred of workers of color. Patterson wants to create a model for standardizing hiring and promotions because “as long as there is implicit bias, you can train all the workers in the world but they will never get hired.” His goal is to change the face of fine dining “until fine dining does not resemble Trump's America.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1050px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116766\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2.jpg\" alt=\"Stephanie Fields shares her stories of growing up in the rural South and discovering La Cocina, where she got support for her business Sugarfoot.\" width=\"1050\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2.jpg 1050w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1050px) 100vw, 1050px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stephanie Fields shares her stories of growing up in the rural South and discovering La Cocina, where she got support for her business Sugarfoot. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/JenBaxterSF/\">@JenBaxterSF\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One of the most compelling stories of the evening was delivered by Stephanie Fields, of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sugarfootkitchen.com\">Sugarfoot Kitchen\u003c/a>, a “Southern comfort catering company,” and a graduate of La Cocina. Her pepper jelly turkey meatballs were a standout at the pre-show food tasting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fields described her hometown of Henderson, North Carolina in the rural South, a place where the working poor are disillusioned and angry and 36% of residents live in poverty. In a town where 60% of the population is Black, she told us, “You can still call up the KKK for your daily dose of hate from Grand Wizard Mr. Bobbit (and she played his offensive phone recording to prove it). While her family often used the n-word in anger, Fields grew up with friends from both cultures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116774\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116774\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Stephanie Fields' moist and flavorful pepper turkey meatballs were a crowd pleaser.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stephanie Fields' moist and flavorful pepper turkey meatballs were a crowd pleaser. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She started her business through La Cocina’s incubator program in 2013 and plans to open her Southern restaurant in San Francisco’s Portola district this fall. But Fields confessed that a crisis of conscience almost caused her to close Sugarfoot just one month after she opened it. It happened when she read an open letter that Michael Twitty penned to \u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/06/19/paula-deen-racist-comments-n-word-caught-on-video_n_3467287.html\">Paula Deen after the uproar\u003c/a> about her use of racist comments. He wrote, “We are surrounded by culinary injustice where some Southerners take credit for things that enslaved Africans and their descendants played key roles in disseminating.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fields stated, “I had to make a choice not to be “some southerner.” After reading Twitty’s words, she realized that there would be no Southern food without slavery and wondered if she could still claim the food she grew up on -- the okra, collard greens and cheese grits -- as her own. After doing research and talking to friends across race and gender lines, she decided, “I am Southern and I had to eat something.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She also realized: “I cannot undo the pain, undo the shame and undo the history, but what I can do is acknowledge where this food comes from and I can be grateful and be kind.” “Empathy,” she added, “is being a member of a tribe that isn’t yours, but still is.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The next \u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/\">F&B: Voices from the Kitchen\u003c/a> event will be on October 19 with the theme: \u003cstrong>Refuge\u003c/strong>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/116718/la-cocinas-voices-from-the-kitchen-speak-passionately-on-race","authors":["5283"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_2407","bayareabites_1865","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_295","bayareabites_15821","bayareabites_15810","bayareabites_15822","bayareabites_14803","bayareabites_11424"],"featImg":"bayareabites_116768","label":"source_bayareabites_116718"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/possible-5gxfizEbKOJ-pbF5ASgxrs_.1400x1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/ATC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/powerpress/1440_0018_AmericanSuburb_iTunesTile_01.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/powerpress/1440_0017_BayCurious_iTunesTile_01.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2021/10/BBC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/CodeSwitchLifeKit_StationGraphics_300x300EmailGraphic.png","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.","airtime":"THU 10pm, FRI 1am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2019/07/commonwealthclub.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Commonwealth Club of California"},"link":"/radio/program/commonwealth-club","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Commonwealth-Club-of-California-p1060/"}},"considerthis":{"id":"considerthis","title":"Consider This","tagline":"Make sense of the day","info":"Make sense of the day. Every weekday afternoon, Consider This helps you consider the major stories of the day in less than 15 minutes, featuring the reporting and storytelling resources of NPR. 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It is produced in partnership with WNYC.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png","officialWebsiteLink":"http://freakonomics.com/","airtime":"SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"WNYC"},"link":"/radio/program/freakonomics-radio","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/4s8b","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/","rss":"https://feeds.feedburner.com/freakonomicsradio"}},"fresh-air":{"id":"fresh-air","title":"Fresh Air","info":"Hosted by Terry Gross, \u003cem>Fresh Air from WHYY\u003c/em> is the Peabody Award-winning weekday magazine of contemporary arts and issues. One of public radio's most popular programs, Fresh Air features intimate conversations with today's biggest luminaries.","airtime":"MON-FRI 7pm-8pm","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2021/10/FreshAir_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/fresh-air/","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/fresh-air","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/4s8b","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Fresh-Air-p17/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/381444908/podcast.xml"}},"here-and-now":{"id":"here-and-now","title":"Here & Now","info":"A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. 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