Shorty Goldstein's: A New Jewish Deli in San Francisco's FiDi
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Tran","firstName":"Thy","lastName":"Tran","slug":"thy-tran","email":"thy@wanderingspoon.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Thy Tran writes literary nonfiction about food, the rituals of the kitchen, and the many ways eating and cooking both connect and separate communities around the world. She co-authored the award-winning guide, Kitchen Companion, and her work has appeared in numerous other books, including Asia in the San Francisco Bay Area: A Cultural Travel Guide and Cooking at Home with the Culinary Institute of America. Her writing has been featured in The Washington Post, Los Angeles Times, San Francisco Chronicle, Fine Cooking and Saveur. A recipient of a literary grant from the San Francisco Arts Commission, Thy is currently working on a collection of essays about how food changes in families across time and place.\r\n\r\nThough trained as a professional chef, she works on cookbooks by day, then creates literary chapbooks by night. An old letterpress and two cabinets of wood and lead type occupy a corner of her writing studio, for she is as committed to the art and craft of bookmaking as she is to the power of words themselves. In addition to writing, editing, teaching and printing, Thy remains active in local food justice and global food sovereignty movements. Visit her website, wanderingspoon.com, to learn more about her culinary adventures.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5b7758ab85c07037c4ea4dae26be27bd?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Thy Tran | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5b7758ab85c07037c4ea4dae26be27bd?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5b7758ab85c07037c4ea4dae26be27bd?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/thy-tran"},"stephanie-im":{"type":"authors","id":"5037","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5037","found":true},"name":"Stephanie Hua","firstName":"Stephanie","lastName":"Hua","slug":"stephanie-im","email":"stephanieim1023@gmail.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Stephanie Hua is the creator of \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com\">Lick My Spoon\u003c/a>, a place for all things delicious. So far she has learned that she very much enjoys salted caramel anything, a good soup dumpling is worth a scalded tongue, and there is no room in life for non-fat cheese and crappy chocolate. Also, a barrel of cheese balls never ends well. \r\n\r\nStephanie has been known to choose her company based on how much they can pack it down. Ability to endure cramped quarters, sketchy back alleys, and uncharted paths to seek out that special dish is also a plus in her book. If you fit the criteria, drop a note. You’ll probably get along just fine.\r\n\r\nStephanie's writing and photography have been featured in Fodor's Travel, Wine Enthusiast Magazine, Serious Eats, and Sundance Channel. Follow her on \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Lick-My-Spoon/124276040932644\">Facebook\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/lickmyspoon\">@lickmyspoon\u003c/a>.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/beae4012a280097aebdfcd32bcd3c64d?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"LickMySpoon","facebook":"pages/Lick-My-Spoon/124276040932644","instagram":null,"linkedin":"StephanieHua","sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Stephanie Hua | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/beae4012a280097aebdfcd32bcd3c64d?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/beae4012a280097aebdfcd32bcd3c64d?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/stephanie-im"},"stephanie-rosenbaum":{"type":"authors","id":"5038","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5038","found":true},"name":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen","firstName":"Stephanie","lastName":"Rosenbaum Klassen","slug":"stephanie-rosenbaum","email":"dixieday@aol.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen is a longtime local food writer, author, and cook. Her books include The Art of Vintage Cocktails (Egg & Dart Press), World of Doughnuts (Egg & Dart Press); Kids in the Kitchen: Fun Food (Williams Sonoma); Honey from Flower to Table (Chronicle Books) and The Astrology Cookbook: A Cosmic Guide to Feasts of Love (Manic D Press). She has studied organic farming at UCSC and holds a certificate in Ecological Horticulture from the Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems. She does frequent cooking demonstrations at local farmers’ markets and has taught food writing at Media Alliance in San Francisco and the Continuing Education program at Stanford University. She has been the lead restaurant critic for the San Francisco Bay Guardian as well as for San Francisco magazine. She has been an assistant chef at the Headlands Center for the Arts, an artists' residency program located in the Marin Headlands, and a production cook at the Marin Sun Farms Cafe in Pt Reyes Station. After some 20 years in San Francisco interspersed with stints in Oakland, Santa Cruz, Brooklyn, and Manhattan, she recently moved to Sonoma county but still writes in San Francisco several days a week.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"sjrosenbaum","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/stephanie-rosenbaum"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_58466":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_58466","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"58466","score":null,"sort":[1365321848000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"shorty-goldsteins-a-new-jewish-deli-in-san-franciscos-fidi","title":"Shorty Goldstein's: A New Jewish Deli in San Francisco's FiDi","publishDate":1365321848,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Now that you've all broken your week of unleavened, unfermented Passover eating with pizza and beer, it's time to jump back on the pastrami-sandwich bandwagon with a trip to San Francisco's newest Jewish-style deli, \u003ca href=\"http://www.shortygoldsteins.com\">Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59581\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/michael1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/michael1000.jpg\" alt=\"Owner of Shorty Goldstein's, Michael Siegel\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59581\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Michael Siegel, owner of Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>First, the name. Wince-worthy as it seemed on first hearing, owner Michael Siegel came by it honestly: Shorty was the nickname of his great-grandmother, Pauline Goldstein, and no Jewish deli-meister can hope for success without paying hommage to his \u003cem>bubbe.\u003c/em> Born in Tucson, Arizona, Siegel, who worked as a chef de cuisine at Betelnut for 5 years before jumping into restaurant ownership this year, grew up on the Jewish comfort food made by his Philadelphia and New York-bred relatives. Every year, \"Shorty\" would come visit for a month, enlisting the young Michael as her helper in rolling and stuffing the dozens of potato knishes she'd make for the family. Afterwards, Siegel's grandmother would dole them out, one at a time, making them last. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Throughout his culinary career, through training in French, Mediterranean, and Asian cuisines, Siegel kept returning, in his mind, to the familiar briskets, latkes, and stuffed cabbages of his youth. And now, here they are, only done with a San Francisco spin, so that the cauliflower and beets are pickled in-house, the chopped chicken livers are packed in jam jars, and the rugulach are filled with apples and cardamom or strawberries and black pepper. (The small, fluffy knishes, however, are true to their originals.) So far, it's working: open for breakfast and lunch weekdays only in the Financial District, Shorty's has been enviably busy since its opening day. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59594\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/frontcounter1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/frontcounter1000.jpg\" alt=\"Front counter at Shorty Goldstein's\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59594\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Front counter at Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During the first week, the line of suits and skirts-and-heels stretched back past the door by the dozens. Always curious about the next new thing--and never one to turn down the chance of tasty pastrami without the need for a plane ticket to New York or LA--we grabbed a counterside seat next to two nice ladies of a certain age. They were the kind who, in my New Jersey youth, would have been ace \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/26/grandmas-rugelach/\">rugelach\u003c/a> bakers active in the synagogue sisterhood. Here, they were enjoying a corned beef sandwich and a tongue sandwich (a Thursday-only special), respectively. This being San Francisco, there's just no way to relate their enthusiasm for the tongue sandwich without it sounding irredeemably but unintentionally dirty, so I won't try, but suffice it say, it was a nice tongue sandwich, very much appreciated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although there's room for tables in the wood-floored, chalkboard-walled room, seats are limited to metal stools ranged along narrow counters clinging to the edges of the exposed brick walls. Despite friendly servers and pleasant amenities--cutlery with a nice heft to it, a tall glass dispenser of spa-like cucumber-mint water--the setup that doesn't encourage lingering, or ordering more than can fit in a single-plate line in front of you. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59585\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chocolateeggcream-cornedbeef600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chocolateeggcream-cornedbeef600.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate egg cream and Corned Beef sandwich\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59585\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate egg cream and Corned Beef sandwich\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to Siegel, their house-cured pastrami is their top seller, outselling even the popular corned beef two to one. And, like the corned beef, it's some good stuff, flavorful and moist, maybe cut a little too thick, not quite as magically spicy/fatty/umami-fantastic as \u003ca href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com\">Wise Sons'\u003c/a>, but still an excellent reason to leave your desk. (They'll also double the meat, should you need the full mouth-stretching, Carnegie-Deli experience.) If only the bread were better. This beige, fluffy stuff hardly tastes of rye, and there's not a caraway seed in sight. Why not \u003ca href=\"http://www.semifreddis.com/products\">Semifreddi's Odessa Rye\u003c/a>, or \u003ca href=\"http://acmebread.com/bread/rye\">Acme Bread's New York Rye\u003c/a>? After all, if the kitchen's going to all the trouble to make the Fridays-only tuna salad from super-scratch, using seared fresh albacore bound with house-made mayonnaise loaded with dill, red onions and celery, it should be embraced by bread that's worthy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59596\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chickenliver500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chickenliver500-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Chopped Chicken Liver, Toast and Pickled Baby Fennel\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59596\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chopped Chicken Liver, Toast and Pickled Baby Fennel\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bread is certainly better toasted, when small squares serve as a delivery vehicle for a jar of satisfyingly dense chopped chicken-liver spread, paired with surprisingly elegant wisps of pickled baby fennel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since the open kitchen at the back of the restaurant has only a small flattop grill, making toasted sandwiches by the hundreds isn't an option; so far, the only hot sandwiches are the daily grilled cheese along with Wednesday's Rachel, which Siegel describes as a sister to the Reuben, made with pastrami, cole slaw, and Swiss. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59587\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/kitchen1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/kitchen1000.jpg\" alt=\"Open Kitchen at Shorty Goldstein's \" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59587\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Open Kitchen at Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There's a very nice looking bowl of chicken soup with matzoh balls, although we were still having too much of a matzoh hangover from the past 8 days of Passover to try it. And while Shorty's is no \u003ca href=\"http://gracias-madre.com/\">Gracias Madre\u003c/a>, there is a daily vegetarian soup (potato-green garlic on a recent visit), the aforementioned grilled cheese and veggie sandwich, a well-stocked farmer's market salad (recently, baby lettuces, artichoke, avocado and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovechevre.com/our-cheese/aged-cheeses/midnight-moon.html#.UWElmDcTSx0\">Midnight Moon\u003c/a> gouda, in a raisin-molasses dressing) and a pickle plate (currently, some pleasantly crisp cauliflower, tender asparagus and regrettably mushy, over-vinegared beets). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But enough of that. How's the egg cream? An egg cream, I must point out to you kombucha-swilling West Coasters, contains neither eggs nor cream. Essentially, it's an ice cream soda with no ice cream, made with a few fingers of chocolate syrup (purists swear by Brooklyn-born \u003ca href=\"http://www.foxs-syrups.com/\">Fox's U-Bet\u003c/a>) and milk foamed into a frothy, bubbly drink by a powerful jet of seltzer. Seltzer that's released, properly, from a glass siphon bottle, not a soda gun or worse, a screw-top bottle of lazy sparkling water. A real egg cream needs a sting behind it, the bubbles crisp and sharp on your tongue; otherwise, you might as well be drinking \u003ca href=\"http://www.drinkyoo-hoo.com/\">Yoo-hoo\u003c/a>. So far, no one in the Bay Area gets it right, to my taste--they're always too flat, too rich, too chocolatey-sweet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59589\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/carameleggcream.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/carameleggcream-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Salted Caramel Egg Cream\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59589\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salted Caramel Egg Cream\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Shorty's is getting close, although by my lights, their seltzer, even though it comes correctly out of a siphon, isn't quite powerfully fizzy enough. During opening week, the egg cream was an eyebrow-raising $5, making the comparison to \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zoJAc_aSM7E\">Pulp Fiction's $5 milkshake\u003c/a> inevitable. (It's since been dropped to $4.) But Siegel makes up for any lack of bubbles by offering seasonal flavors to go with the typical chocolate and vanilla. Right now, there's strawberry, made from a jammy concoction of fresh berries from \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Yerenafarms\">Yerena Farms\u003c/a> sweetened with agave syrup, and the pretty spectacular salted caramel, which is just as good as you'd think. Take that, New York!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/SGFIDI\">Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/SGoldsteins\">@SGoldsteins\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/6WlZm\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n126 Sutter St\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94104\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (415) 986-2676\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Mon-Fri 8am-4pm \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Salted caramel egg creams? Fresh albacore tuna salad? Michael Siegel, formerly a chef at Betelnut, gets back to his roots, San Francisco-style, at his new FiDi deli, Shorty Goldstein's. Stephanie Rosenbaum reports back on a pair of recent visits.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1365549929,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":14,"wordCount":1174},"headData":{"title":"Shorty Goldstein's: A New Jewish Deli in San Francisco's FiDi | KQED","description":"Salted caramel egg creams? Fresh albacore tuna salad? Michael Siegel, formerly a chef at Betelnut, gets back to his roots, San Francisco-style, at his new FiDi deli, Shorty Goldstein's. Stephanie Rosenbaum reports back on a pair of recent visits.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"58466 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=58466","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/04/07/shorty-goldsteins-a-new-jewish-deli-in-san-franciscos-fidi/","disqusTitle":"Shorty Goldstein's: A New Jewish Deli in San Francisco's FiDi","path":"/bayareabites/58466/shorty-goldsteins-a-new-jewish-deli-in-san-franciscos-fidi","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Now that you've all broken your week of unleavened, unfermented Passover eating with pizza and beer, it's time to jump back on the pastrami-sandwich bandwagon with a trip to San Francisco's newest Jewish-style deli, \u003ca href=\"http://www.shortygoldsteins.com\">Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59581\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/michael1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/michael1000.jpg\" alt=\"Owner of Shorty Goldstein's, Michael Siegel\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59581\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Michael Siegel, owner of Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>First, the name. Wince-worthy as it seemed on first hearing, owner Michael Siegel came by it honestly: Shorty was the nickname of his great-grandmother, Pauline Goldstein, and no Jewish deli-meister can hope for success without paying hommage to his \u003cem>bubbe.\u003c/em> Born in Tucson, Arizona, Siegel, who worked as a chef de cuisine at Betelnut for 5 years before jumping into restaurant ownership this year, grew up on the Jewish comfort food made by his Philadelphia and New York-bred relatives. Every year, \"Shorty\" would come visit for a month, enlisting the young Michael as her helper in rolling and stuffing the dozens of potato knishes she'd make for the family. Afterwards, Siegel's grandmother would dole them out, one at a time, making them last. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Throughout his culinary career, through training in French, Mediterranean, and Asian cuisines, Siegel kept returning, in his mind, to the familiar briskets, latkes, and stuffed cabbages of his youth. And now, here they are, only done with a San Francisco spin, so that the cauliflower and beets are pickled in-house, the chopped chicken livers are packed in jam jars, and the rugulach are filled with apples and cardamom or strawberries and black pepper. (The small, fluffy knishes, however, are true to their originals.) So far, it's working: open for breakfast and lunch weekdays only in the Financial District, Shorty's has been enviably busy since its opening day. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59594\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/frontcounter1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/frontcounter1000.jpg\" alt=\"Front counter at Shorty Goldstein's\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59594\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Front counter at Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During the first week, the line of suits and skirts-and-heels stretched back past the door by the dozens. Always curious about the next new thing--and never one to turn down the chance of tasty pastrami without the need for a plane ticket to New York or LA--we grabbed a counterside seat next to two nice ladies of a certain age. They were the kind who, in my New Jersey youth, would have been ace \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/10/26/grandmas-rugelach/\">rugelach\u003c/a> bakers active in the synagogue sisterhood. Here, they were enjoying a corned beef sandwich and a tongue sandwich (a Thursday-only special), respectively. This being San Francisco, there's just no way to relate their enthusiasm for the tongue sandwich without it sounding irredeemably but unintentionally dirty, so I won't try, but suffice it say, it was a nice tongue sandwich, very much appreciated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although there's room for tables in the wood-floored, chalkboard-walled room, seats are limited to metal stools ranged along narrow counters clinging to the edges of the exposed brick walls. Despite friendly servers and pleasant amenities--cutlery with a nice heft to it, a tall glass dispenser of spa-like cucumber-mint water--the setup that doesn't encourage lingering, or ordering more than can fit in a single-plate line in front of you. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59585\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chocolateeggcream-cornedbeef600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chocolateeggcream-cornedbeef600.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate egg cream and Corned Beef sandwich\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59585\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate egg cream and Corned Beef sandwich\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>According to Siegel, their house-cured pastrami is their top seller, outselling even the popular corned beef two to one. And, like the corned beef, it's some good stuff, flavorful and moist, maybe cut a little too thick, not quite as magically spicy/fatty/umami-fantastic as \u003ca href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com\">Wise Sons'\u003c/a>, but still an excellent reason to leave your desk. (They'll also double the meat, should you need the full mouth-stretching, Carnegie-Deli experience.) If only the bread were better. This beige, fluffy stuff hardly tastes of rye, and there's not a caraway seed in sight. Why not \u003ca href=\"http://www.semifreddis.com/products\">Semifreddi's Odessa Rye\u003c/a>, or \u003ca href=\"http://acmebread.com/bread/rye\">Acme Bread's New York Rye\u003c/a>? After all, if the kitchen's going to all the trouble to make the Fridays-only tuna salad from super-scratch, using seared fresh albacore bound with house-made mayonnaise loaded with dill, red onions and celery, it should be embraced by bread that's worthy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59596\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chickenliver500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/chickenliver500-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Chopped Chicken Liver, Toast and Pickled Baby Fennel\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59596\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chopped Chicken Liver, Toast and Pickled Baby Fennel\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bread is certainly better toasted, when small squares serve as a delivery vehicle for a jar of satisfyingly dense chopped chicken-liver spread, paired with surprisingly elegant wisps of pickled baby fennel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since the open kitchen at the back of the restaurant has only a small flattop grill, making toasted sandwiches by the hundreds isn't an option; so far, the only hot sandwiches are the daily grilled cheese along with Wednesday's Rachel, which Siegel describes as a sister to the Reuben, made with pastrami, cole slaw, and Swiss. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59587\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/kitchen1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/kitchen1000.jpg\" alt=\"Open Kitchen at Shorty Goldstein's \" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59587\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Open Kitchen at Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There's a very nice looking bowl of chicken soup with matzoh balls, although we were still having too much of a matzoh hangover from the past 8 days of Passover to try it. And while Shorty's is no \u003ca href=\"http://gracias-madre.com/\">Gracias Madre\u003c/a>, there is a daily vegetarian soup (potato-green garlic on a recent visit), the aforementioned grilled cheese and veggie sandwich, a well-stocked farmer's market salad (recently, baby lettuces, artichoke, avocado and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovechevre.com/our-cheese/aged-cheeses/midnight-moon.html#.UWElmDcTSx0\">Midnight Moon\u003c/a> gouda, in a raisin-molasses dressing) and a pickle plate (currently, some pleasantly crisp cauliflower, tender asparagus and regrettably mushy, over-vinegared beets). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But enough of that. How's the egg cream? An egg cream, I must point out to you kombucha-swilling West Coasters, contains neither eggs nor cream. Essentially, it's an ice cream soda with no ice cream, made with a few fingers of chocolate syrup (purists swear by Brooklyn-born \u003ca href=\"http://www.foxs-syrups.com/\">Fox's U-Bet\u003c/a>) and milk foamed into a frothy, bubbly drink by a powerful jet of seltzer. Seltzer that's released, properly, from a glass siphon bottle, not a soda gun or worse, a screw-top bottle of lazy sparkling water. A real egg cream needs a sting behind it, the bubbles crisp and sharp on your tongue; otherwise, you might as well be drinking \u003ca href=\"http://www.drinkyoo-hoo.com/\">Yoo-hoo\u003c/a>. So far, no one in the Bay Area gets it right, to my taste--they're always too flat, too rich, too chocolatey-sweet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59589\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/carameleggcream.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/carameleggcream-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Salted Caramel Egg Cream\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59589\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Salted Caramel Egg Cream\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Shorty's is getting close, although by my lights, their seltzer, even though it comes correctly out of a siphon, isn't quite powerfully fizzy enough. During opening week, the egg cream was an eyebrow-raising $5, making the comparison to \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zoJAc_aSM7E\">Pulp Fiction's $5 milkshake\u003c/a> inevitable. (It's since been dropped to $4.) But Siegel makes up for any lack of bubbles by offering seasonal flavors to go with the typical chocolate and vanilla. Right now, there's strawberry, made from a jammy concoction of fresh berries from \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Yerenafarms\">Yerena Farms\u003c/a> sweetened with agave syrup, and the pretty spectacular salted caramel, which is just as good as you'd think. Take that, New York!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/SGFIDI\">Shorty Goldstein's\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/SGoldsteins\">@SGoldsteins\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/6WlZm\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n126 Sutter St\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94104\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (415) 986-2676\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Mon-Fri 8am-4pm \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/58466/shorty-goldsteins-a-new-jewish-deli-in-san-franciscos-fidi","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_8462","bayareabites_9157","bayareabites_2877","bayareabites_11491","bayareabites_71","bayareabites_10171","bayareabites_11436","bayareabites_11490","bayareabites_2878","bayareabites_11489"],"featImg":"bayareabites_59583","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_25404":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_25404","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"25404","score":null,"sort":[1301247985000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"wise-sons-pop-up-deli","title":"Wise Sons Pop-Up Deli","publishDate":1301247985,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_25581\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/03/ollies-bialy-wisesonsdeli300.jpg\" alt=\"Ollies Bialy\" title=\"Ollies Bialy\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" class=\"size-full wp-image-25581\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ollie's Bialy\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bring me your bialys, your chocolate babkas, your lox, capers, and schmears yearning to be free! It's a cliche, perhaps, to kvetch about the Bay Area's lack of decent Jewish deli food, when we can find just about everything else here from Burmese tea salad to Himalayan momos. But try telling that to a nostalgic deli-lover. An empanada is not a knish; a wonton is not a kreplach; a morning bun, however glorious, is not a slice of babka. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, there are pockets here and there: \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/02/21/who-owns-the-deli/\">Saul's\u003c/a> in Berkeley, of course, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.millersdelisf.com\">Miller's East Coast Deli\u003c/a> on Polk Street in SF, a few halfway-decent bagel shops, the Russian grocery stores and bakeries on Clement Street that stock sour pickles, rye bread, farmer cheese and stuffed cabbage. But where to bask in the kibbitzing atmosphere of Manhattan's \u003ca href=\"http://www.barneygreengrass.com\">Barney Greengrass\u003c/a> on a Saturday morning, where platters of salami-and-eggs or whitefish salad are smacked down on Formica tables? Where can we inhale a perfume like the heady aroma inside \u003ca href=\"http://www.russanddaughters.com\">Russ and Daughters\u003c/a> on a Friday afternoon, equal parts smoked fish and buttery-cinnamony rugalach, with a hint of onion bagel? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the Bay Area is a land more attuned to kale and lardo than chicken liver and schmaltz. Then again, if every other ethnic cuisine, no matter how obscure, can find its niche, why not this one? So far, the success of \u003ca href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com\">Wise Sons Deli\u003c/a>, Evan Bloom's and Leo Beckerman's 10-week-old pop-up restaurant, bodes well for saving the deli. Started as a popular offering at \u003ca href=\"http://offthegridsf.com/\">Off the Grid\u003c/a>, Beckerman and Bloom are now setting up shop at Jackie's Cafe on every Saturday morning from 9am to 2pm, turning the marble-tabled Valencia Street spot into their own version of \u003ca href=\"http://www.langersdeli.com\">Langer's\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu is short, a mixture of specials (mushroom-and-barley soup, corned-beef knishes) and staples (schmaltz on rye, housemade corned beef and pastrami sandwiches). No egg creams or Cel-Ray tonic, just Bolyan's sodas, De La Paz coffee and Mexican Cokes. Neither Wise Son has a restaurant background (Bloom has a degree in architecture; Beckerman worked in public health) but they're learning fast. Beckerman takes the orders while Bloom and his small crew slices pastrami and assembles sandwiches in a plugged-in, makeshift semi-kitchen where a bucket of potato salad jostles against a bin of bialys near a couple of Reubens toasting on a jerry-rigged griddle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not an ideal set-up (says Bloom dryly, \"I'd like to be able to boil water\") but somehow, everything comes out delicious: thick-cut, lavishly fatty corned beef and pastrami sandwiches on springy, caraway-flecked sour rye bread, buttressed with heaps of fresh and crunchy coleslaw and sour pickles; a yeasty-chewy toasted bialy slathered with caper cream cheese and red onions, piled lavishly with \u003ca href=\"http://www.acmesmokedfish.com\">Acme\u003c/a> smoked salmon from the Polish neighborhood of Greenpoint in Brooklyn; plates of sunny yellow noodle kugel and hunks of babka densely ribboned with chocolate and caramel. They're working hard to rehabilitate schmaltz (chicken fat); after all, why should lardo and duck fat get all the foodie love? Already, regulars are asking to have their Reubens griddled in schmaltz. \"We're like In-N-Out! It's our \u003ca href=\"http://www.in-n-out.com/secretmenu.asp\">animal style\u003c/a>,\" they laugh. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All the prep work--baking the breads, brining and smoking the meats, making the kugels, and more--is done in the community kitchens at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a>. Working there, they share the kitchens with an international mix of small-scale entrepreneurs, many of them women from Central and South America. It makes them think of all kinds of Mission-ready mash-ups--why not a corned beef pupusa? Or a dulce de leche hamantashen? A kale knish? How about a meatless Reuben stuffed with smoked shiitake mushrooms? (These last two have already been adopted on the menu, with great success.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'd say the majority of our clientele isn't Jewish,\" says Bloom, and doing a quick one-over of the room on a recent Saturday morning, I'd agree with him; the mix is a resolutely urban one, united in a love for corned beef. Beckerman and Bloom have plans to get bigger and better. \"We'd like to be open more than just on Shabbas,\" jokes Beckerman, although they're certainly positioned to scoop up the after-services crowd from nearby \u003ca href=\"http://www.shaarzahav.org\">Congregation Sha'ar Zahav\u003c/a>. They've been pounding the pavement looking for a permanent location in the Mission for the past six months, and will be hosting a Passover Seder dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://www.coffeebar-usa.com\">Coffee Bar\u003c/a> on Tuesday, April 19th. They've also got a full Passover catering menu in place for April 18th and 19th, the first two nights of Passover. Let all who are hungry, come and eat brisket. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com/\">Wise Sons Deli\u003c/a>, 105 Valencia at McCoppin Sts, SF. Saturday, 9am-2pm. Cash only. Phone: 415 787-DELI.\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com/\">@WiseSonsDeli\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Wise Sons, a pop-up Jewish deli, arrives on Valencia Street, ready to spearhead the schmaltz revolution one Reuben at a time. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1303362026,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":11,"wordCount":832},"headData":{"title":"Wise Sons Pop-Up Deli | KQED","description":"Wise Sons, a pop-up Jewish deli, arrives on Valencia Street, ready to spearhead the schmaltz revolution one Reuben at a time. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"25404 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=25404","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/03/27/wise-sons-pop-up-deli/","disqusTitle":"Wise Sons Pop-Up Deli","path":"/bayareabites/25404/wise-sons-pop-up-deli","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_25581\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/03/ollies-bialy-wisesonsdeli300.jpg\" alt=\"Ollies Bialy\" title=\"Ollies Bialy\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" class=\"size-full wp-image-25581\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ollie's Bialy\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bring me your bialys, your chocolate babkas, your lox, capers, and schmears yearning to be free! It's a cliche, perhaps, to kvetch about the Bay Area's lack of decent Jewish deli food, when we can find just about everything else here from Burmese tea salad to Himalayan momos. But try telling that to a nostalgic deli-lover. An empanada is not a knish; a wonton is not a kreplach; a morning bun, however glorious, is not a slice of babka. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, there are pockets here and there: \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/02/21/who-owns-the-deli/\">Saul's\u003c/a> in Berkeley, of course, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.millersdelisf.com\">Miller's East Coast Deli\u003c/a> on Polk Street in SF, a few halfway-decent bagel shops, the Russian grocery stores and bakeries on Clement Street that stock sour pickles, rye bread, farmer cheese and stuffed cabbage. But where to bask in the kibbitzing atmosphere of Manhattan's \u003ca href=\"http://www.barneygreengrass.com\">Barney Greengrass\u003c/a> on a Saturday morning, where platters of salami-and-eggs or whitefish salad are smacked down on Formica tables? Where can we inhale a perfume like the heady aroma inside \u003ca href=\"http://www.russanddaughters.com\">Russ and Daughters\u003c/a> on a Friday afternoon, equal parts smoked fish and buttery-cinnamony rugalach, with a hint of onion bagel? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the Bay Area is a land more attuned to kale and lardo than chicken liver and schmaltz. Then again, if every other ethnic cuisine, no matter how obscure, can find its niche, why not this one? So far, the success of \u003ca href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com\">Wise Sons Deli\u003c/a>, Evan Bloom's and Leo Beckerman's 10-week-old pop-up restaurant, bodes well for saving the deli. Started as a popular offering at \u003ca href=\"http://offthegridsf.com/\">Off the Grid\u003c/a>, Beckerman and Bloom are now setting up shop at Jackie's Cafe on every Saturday morning from 9am to 2pm, turning the marble-tabled Valencia Street spot into their own version of \u003ca href=\"http://www.langersdeli.com\">Langer's\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The menu is short, a mixture of specials (mushroom-and-barley soup, corned-beef knishes) and staples (schmaltz on rye, housemade corned beef and pastrami sandwiches). No egg creams or Cel-Ray tonic, just Bolyan's sodas, De La Paz coffee and Mexican Cokes. Neither Wise Son has a restaurant background (Bloom has a degree in architecture; Beckerman worked in public health) but they're learning fast. Beckerman takes the orders while Bloom and his small crew slices pastrami and assembles sandwiches in a plugged-in, makeshift semi-kitchen where a bucket of potato salad jostles against a bin of bialys near a couple of Reubens toasting on a jerry-rigged griddle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not an ideal set-up (says Bloom dryly, \"I'd like to be able to boil water\") but somehow, everything comes out delicious: thick-cut, lavishly fatty corned beef and pastrami sandwiches on springy, caraway-flecked sour rye bread, buttressed with heaps of fresh and crunchy coleslaw and sour pickles; a yeasty-chewy toasted bialy slathered with caper cream cheese and red onions, piled lavishly with \u003ca href=\"http://www.acmesmokedfish.com\">Acme\u003c/a> smoked salmon from the Polish neighborhood of Greenpoint in Brooklyn; plates of sunny yellow noodle kugel and hunks of babka densely ribboned with chocolate and caramel. They're working hard to rehabilitate schmaltz (chicken fat); after all, why should lardo and duck fat get all the foodie love? Already, regulars are asking to have their Reubens griddled in schmaltz. \"We're like In-N-Out! It's our \u003ca href=\"http://www.in-n-out.com/secretmenu.asp\">animal style\u003c/a>,\" they laugh. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All the prep work--baking the breads, brining and smoking the meats, making the kugels, and more--is done in the community kitchens at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a>. Working there, they share the kitchens with an international mix of small-scale entrepreneurs, many of them women from Central and South America. It makes them think of all kinds of Mission-ready mash-ups--why not a corned beef pupusa? Or a dulce de leche hamantashen? A kale knish? How about a meatless Reuben stuffed with smoked shiitake mushrooms? (These last two have already been adopted on the menu, with great success.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'd say the majority of our clientele isn't Jewish,\" says Bloom, and doing a quick one-over of the room on a recent Saturday morning, I'd agree with him; the mix is a resolutely urban one, united in a love for corned beef. Beckerman and Bloom have plans to get bigger and better. \"We'd like to be open more than just on Shabbas,\" jokes Beckerman, although they're certainly positioned to scoop up the after-services crowd from nearby \u003ca href=\"http://www.shaarzahav.org\">Congregation Sha'ar Zahav\u003c/a>. They've been pounding the pavement looking for a permanent location in the Mission for the past six months, and will be hosting a Passover Seder dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://www.coffeebar-usa.com\">Coffee Bar\u003c/a> on Tuesday, April 19th. They've also got a full Passover catering menu in place for April 18th and 19th, the first two nights of Passover. Let all who are hungry, come and eat brisket. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com/\">Wise Sons Deli\u003c/a>, 105 Valencia at McCoppin Sts, SF. Saturday, 9am-2pm. Cash only. Phone: 415 787-DELI.\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"http://www.wisesonsdeli.com/\">@WiseSonsDeli\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/25404/wise-sons-pop-up-deli","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_181"],"tags":["bayareabites_9157","bayareabites_9154","bayareabites_71","bayareabites_9155","bayareabites_2878","bayareabites_4043","bayareabites_9156"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_15218":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_15218","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"15218","score":null,"sort":[1279724404000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"orson-brunch-and-a-fleeting-love-affair","title":"Orson Brunch and a Fleeting Love Affair","publishDate":1279724404,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Picture1.jpg\" alt=\"Orson SF\" title=\"Orson SF\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15219\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's the weekend. You rolled out of bed craving something good. It's been a long week, you've been working hard, and you deserve some carbs that have been slathered in butter and griddled. And bacon. Definitely some bacon. The answer is, obviously, \u003cstrong>brunch\u003c/strong>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://orsonsf.com/\">Orson\u003c/a> has been my go-to weekend indulgence ever since they started their brunch service months ago. This industrial-chic space is well known for its nighttime vibe, but in the light of day, the modern, artsy décor translates well. With one of the most well-composed brunch offerings I've seen in awhile, it won't be a neighborhood secret for long. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>True to form, executive chef \u003cstrong>Elizabeth Falkner\u003c/strong> has put together a stellar menu that features comforting classics, amped up with gourmet ingredients, nuanced flavors, and out-of-the-box combinations. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2345.jpg\" alt=\"Blueberry and Thyme Monte Cristo\" title=\"Blueberry and Thyme Monte Cristo\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15223\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Blueberry and Thyme Monte Cristo\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cue: \u003cstrong>Blueberry and Thyme Monte Cristo with House-made Breakfast Sausage\u003c/strong>. Love at first sight. This sandwich makes all other sandwiches pale in comparison. It will make you go weak in the knees and will haunt your dreams for \u003cdel datetime=\"2010-07-18T04:33:42+00:00\">days\u003c/del> months after. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's savory, it's sweet, it has melty cheese, and powdered sugar. What else could you ask for? Nothing. But Orson gives it to you anyway, like flowers, just because. The entire dish is like a big game of call-and-answer. The blueberry compote calls, and the French toast answers. The cave-aged Gruyere calls, and the Canadian bacon answers. A touch of thyme whispers aromatic notes to the house-made breakfast sausage, and staccato slices of pickled red onion keep it fresh amongst all that richness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To my disbelief and heartbreak, I recently returned to Orson and discovered that the Monte Cristo had been taken off the brunch menu. \u003cem>Nooooooooo!!\u003c/em> Just when we had found each other! The menu changes frequently depending on seasonality and the market, and I saw that a handful of other items had also been cycled out:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2357.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2357.jpg\" alt=\"Fried Chicken Sandwich \" title=\"Fried Chicken Sandwich \" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15225\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Fried Chicken Sandwich with Pickled Red Onion and Spicy Sesame Aioli, on a Parmesan Bun\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2361.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2361.jpg\" alt=\"Eggs in Brioche\" title=\"Eggs in Brioche\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15226\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Eggs in Brioche with Duck & Pistachio Sausage, Fava Bean Pesto, and a Shower of Pecorino\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2352.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2352.jpg\" alt=\"Orson Burger\" title=\"Orson Burger\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15224\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Orson Burger with House-made Steak Sauce, Cobb Relish and Truffle Mayonnaise, on a Parmesan Bun\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despondent and stricken with grief, I considered drowning myself in \u003cstrong>$10 bottomless mimosas\u003c/strong> and making friends with \u003cstrong>The Mary's\u003c/strong>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-6847.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-6847.jpg\" alt=\"Orson's 7 Bloody Mary's\" title=\"Orson's 7 Bloody Mary's\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15232\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The 7 Sisters\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was consoled by the sight of ol' faithful, the \u003cstrong>Pastrami Sandwich\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-6924.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-6924.jpg\" alt=\"House-cured Pastrami Sandwich\" title=\"House-cured Pastrami Sandwich\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15230\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>House-cured Pastrami Sandwich\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rightfully lauded as one of the best sandwiches in the city by the likes of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sanfranmag.com/story/an-opinionated-guide-to-the-sandwich\">San Francisco Magazine\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/05/the_10_best_sandwiches_in_san.php\">SF Weekly\u003c/a>, and the \u003ca href=\"http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748703964104575335032323386948.html\">Wall Street Journal\u003c/a>, just to name a few, Orson's \u003cstrong>House-cured Pastrami Sandwich with Cave-aged Gruyere and Russian dressing, on Sourdough Rye\u003c/strong> is all that it's cracked up to be. \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Katzs-Deli-013_pastrami.jpg\">Katz's\u003c/a> has nothin' on this bad boy (sorry NY, it's true).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The beef brisket is cured in-house with chili flakes and caraway, cold-smoked, then slowly steamed. The sourdough rye is baked in-house, and griddled to crispy, buttery decadence. And, needless to say, melted Gruyere and Russian dressing make any sandwich a winner in my book. Served with a side of \u003cstrong>Duck Fat French Fries\u003c/strong> (or salad), if you're going for the glory, be sure to ask for the \u003cstrong>Brown Butter Bernaise\u003c/strong> dipping sauce, the stuff is like crack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This sandwich is no joke -- you can easily split it between two people. If you're going to risk finishing it by yourself, be responsible and plan not to do anything that requires heavy brain function or operation of motor vehicles directly afterwards. A food coma and belabored heart is pretty much guaranteed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2336.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2336.jpg\" alt=\"House-made Bacon with Cane Syrup\" title=\"House-made Bacon with Cane Syrup\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15222\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>House-made Bacon with Cane Syrup\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Speaking of heart trouble, the \u003cstrong>Extra Thick Cut House-made Bacon with Cane Syrup\u003c/strong> is one of the most obscene displays of porcine glory I've ever seen. It's more like bacon steak. It's ridiculous. Please share it. Half of one strip is usually enough to satisfy my bacon craving for the day. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-6894.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-6894.jpg\" alt=\"French Toast\" title=\"French Toast\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15228\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>French Toast with Peaches, Lavender, and Whipped Brown Sugar Butter\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The good thing about a restaurant that changes up the menu regularly is that you get to enjoy the bounty of what's in season. The \u003cstrong>French Toast\u003c/strong> on the menu is a sure bet here, expect a big portion and seasonal flavors. This summery take featured juicy white peaches, lavender, and whipped brown sugar butter on top of thick slices of homemade milk bread that had been soaked in egg batter overnight. Solid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-6930.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-6930.jpg\" alt=\"Eggs Benedict\" title=\"Eggs Benedict\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15231\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Eggs Benedict\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not so solid were the \u003cstrong>Eggs Benedict\u003c/strong>. Our server warned us that the Eggs Benedict were like none we had ever encountered. She actually used the word, “gnarly,” which I should have taken as a warning. She said it was rich (the hollandaise is made with bacon fat), but I thought, well yeah, any eggs benedict is rich…I was up for the challenge and went for it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The order came out, and our waitress was right. Like nothing I have ever seen. The sous vide poached eggs and boudin blanc were floating in a swamp of creamed corn and scallion hollandaise sauce. Pieces of basil biscuits were buried beneath. Rich was an understatement. This monster was rich on rich. The boudin blanc and the biscuits had good flavor, but they were drowned in cream. Maybe Eggs Benedict in a Bowl and I just weren't meant to be. Not like Monte Cristo. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All in all though, I think Orson has one of the best brunches in town, with staple dishes that you can't go wrong with. It's also a large space, which means you can sleep in and not face repercussions of an hour-long wait for a table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2321.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2321.jpg\" alt=\"Macarons\" title=\"Macarons\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15221\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Citizen Cake's French Macarons: Basil, Salted Caramel, Tangerine, Raspberry Rose\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Added bonus, there's a \u003ca href=\"http://citizencake.com/citizencake.html\">Citizen Cake\u003c/a> bake sale every Saturday and Sunday at the bar counter. They usually have an assortment of cookies, cupcakes, and brilliantly hued macarons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Blogher-Food-2009-083.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Blogher-Food-2009-083.jpg\" alt=\"Elizabeth Falkner\" title=\"Elizabeth Falkner\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15220\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Elizabeth Falkner\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Interesting News: \u003c/em> It looks like \u003cstrong>Chef Falkner\u003c/strong> will be teaching \u003ca href=\"http://www.elizabethfalkner.com/classes.html\">cooking classes\u003c/a> in August at $65 a pop. Maybe she'll teach me how to make the Monte Cristo?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://orsonsf.com/\">Orson\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n508 4th Street\u003cbr>\n(between Bryant St & Brannan St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94107\u003cbr>\n415-777-1508\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Brunch at Orson: a Monte Cristo to end all Monte Cristos and a Pastrami Sandwich to sate any New Yorker.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1279686940,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":33,"wordCount":1064},"headData":{"title":"Orson Brunch and a Fleeting Love Affair | KQED","description":"Brunch at Orson: a Monte Cristo to end all Monte Cristos and a Pastrami Sandwich to sate any New Yorker.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"15218 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=15218","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/07/21/orson-brunch-and-a-fleeting-love-affair/","disqusTitle":"Orson Brunch and a Fleeting Love Affair","path":"/bayareabites/15218/orson-brunch-and-a-fleeting-love-affair","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Picture1.jpg\" alt=\"Orson SF\" title=\"Orson SF\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15219\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's the weekend. You rolled out of bed craving something good. It's been a long week, you've been working hard, and you deserve some carbs that have been slathered in butter and griddled. And bacon. Definitely some bacon. The answer is, obviously, \u003cstrong>brunch\u003c/strong>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://orsonsf.com/\">Orson\u003c/a> has been my go-to weekend indulgence ever since they started their brunch service months ago. This industrial-chic space is well known for its nighttime vibe, but in the light of day, the modern, artsy décor translates well. With one of the most well-composed brunch offerings I've seen in awhile, it won't be a neighborhood secret for long. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>True to form, executive chef \u003cstrong>Elizabeth Falkner\u003c/strong> has put together a stellar menu that features comforting classics, amped up with gourmet ingredients, nuanced flavors, and out-of-the-box combinations. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2345.jpg\" alt=\"Blueberry and Thyme Monte Cristo\" title=\"Blueberry and Thyme Monte Cristo\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15223\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Blueberry and Thyme Monte Cristo\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cue: \u003cstrong>Blueberry and Thyme Monte Cristo with House-made Breakfast Sausage\u003c/strong>. Love at first sight. This sandwich makes all other sandwiches pale in comparison. It will make you go weak in the knees and will haunt your dreams for \u003cdel datetime=\"2010-07-18T04:33:42+00:00\">days\u003c/del> months after. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's savory, it's sweet, it has melty cheese, and powdered sugar. What else could you ask for? Nothing. But Orson gives it to you anyway, like flowers, just because. The entire dish is like a big game of call-and-answer. The blueberry compote calls, and the French toast answers. The cave-aged Gruyere calls, and the Canadian bacon answers. A touch of thyme whispers aromatic notes to the house-made breakfast sausage, and staccato slices of pickled red onion keep it fresh amongst all that richness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To my disbelief and heartbreak, I recently returned to Orson and discovered that the Monte Cristo had been taken off the brunch menu. \u003cem>Nooooooooo!!\u003c/em> Just when we had found each other! The menu changes frequently depending on seasonality and the market, and I saw that a handful of other items had also been cycled out:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2357.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2357.jpg\" alt=\"Fried Chicken Sandwich \" title=\"Fried Chicken Sandwich \" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15225\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Fried Chicken Sandwich with Pickled Red Onion and Spicy Sesame Aioli, on a Parmesan Bun\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2361.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2361.jpg\" alt=\"Eggs in Brioche\" title=\"Eggs in Brioche\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15226\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Eggs in Brioche with Duck & Pistachio Sausage, Fava Bean Pesto, and a Shower of Pecorino\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2352.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2352.jpg\" alt=\"Orson Burger\" title=\"Orson Burger\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15224\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Orson Burger with House-made Steak Sauce, Cobb Relish and Truffle Mayonnaise, on a Parmesan Bun\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despondent and stricken with grief, I considered drowning myself in \u003cstrong>$10 bottomless mimosas\u003c/strong> and making friends with \u003cstrong>The Mary's\u003c/strong>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-6847.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-6847.jpg\" alt=\"Orson's 7 Bloody Mary's\" title=\"Orson's 7 Bloody Mary's\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15232\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The 7 Sisters\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was consoled by the sight of ol' faithful, the \u003cstrong>Pastrami Sandwich\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-6924.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-6924.jpg\" alt=\"House-cured Pastrami Sandwich\" title=\"House-cured Pastrami Sandwich\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15230\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>House-cured Pastrami Sandwich\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rightfully lauded as one of the best sandwiches in the city by the likes of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sanfranmag.com/story/an-opinionated-guide-to-the-sandwich\">San Francisco Magazine\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/05/the_10_best_sandwiches_in_san.php\">SF Weekly\u003c/a>, and the \u003ca href=\"http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748703964104575335032323386948.html\">Wall Street Journal\u003c/a>, just to name a few, Orson's \u003cstrong>House-cured Pastrami Sandwich with Cave-aged Gruyere and Russian dressing, on Sourdough Rye\u003c/strong> is all that it's cracked up to be. \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/Katzs-Deli-013_pastrami.jpg\">Katz's\u003c/a> has nothin' on this bad boy (sorry NY, it's true).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The beef brisket is cured in-house with chili flakes and caraway, cold-smoked, then slowly steamed. The sourdough rye is baked in-house, and griddled to crispy, buttery decadence. And, needless to say, melted Gruyere and Russian dressing make any sandwich a winner in my book. Served with a side of \u003cstrong>Duck Fat French Fries\u003c/strong> (or salad), if you're going for the glory, be sure to ask for the \u003cstrong>Brown Butter Bernaise\u003c/strong> dipping sauce, the stuff is like crack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This sandwich is no joke -- you can easily split it between two people. If you're going to risk finishing it by yourself, be responsible and plan not to do anything that requires heavy brain function or operation of motor vehicles directly afterwards. A food coma and belabored heart is pretty much guaranteed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2336.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2336.jpg\" alt=\"House-made Bacon with Cane Syrup\" title=\"House-made Bacon with Cane Syrup\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15222\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>House-made Bacon with Cane Syrup\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Speaking of heart trouble, the \u003cstrong>Extra Thick Cut House-made Bacon with Cane Syrup\u003c/strong> is one of the most obscene displays of porcine glory I've ever seen. It's more like bacon steak. It's ridiculous. Please share it. Half of one strip is usually enough to satisfy my bacon craving for the day. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-6894.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-6894.jpg\" alt=\"French Toast\" title=\"French Toast\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15228\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>French Toast with Peaches, Lavender, and Whipped Brown Sugar Butter\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The good thing about a restaurant that changes up the menu regularly is that you get to enjoy the bounty of what's in season. The \u003cstrong>French Toast\u003c/strong> on the menu is a sure bet here, expect a big portion and seasonal flavors. This summery take featured juicy white peaches, lavender, and whipped brown sugar butter on top of thick slices of homemade milk bread that had been soaked in egg batter overnight. Solid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-6930.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-6930.jpg\" alt=\"Eggs Benedict\" title=\"Eggs Benedict\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15231\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Eggs Benedict\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not so solid were the \u003cstrong>Eggs Benedict\u003c/strong>. Our server warned us that the Eggs Benedict were like none we had ever encountered. She actually used the word, “gnarly,” which I should have taken as a warning. She said it was rich (the hollandaise is made with bacon fat), but I thought, well yeah, any eggs benedict is rich…I was up for the challenge and went for it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The order came out, and our waitress was right. Like nothing I have ever seen. The sous vide poached eggs and boudin blanc were floating in a swamp of creamed corn and scallion hollandaise sauce. Pieces of basil biscuits were buried beneath. Rich was an understatement. This monster was rich on rich. The boudin blanc and the biscuits had good flavor, but they were drowned in cream. Maybe Eggs Benedict in a Bowl and I just weren't meant to be. Not like Monte Cristo. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All in all though, I think Orson has one of the best brunches in town, with staple dishes that you can't go wrong with. It's also a large space, which means you can sleep in and not face repercussions of an hour-long wait for a table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2321.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Orson-SF-2321.jpg\" alt=\"Macarons\" title=\"Macarons\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15221\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Citizen Cake's French Macarons: Basil, Salted Caramel, Tangerine, Raspberry Rose\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Added bonus, there's a \u003ca href=\"http://citizencake.com/citizencake.html\">Citizen Cake\u003c/a> bake sale every Saturday and Sunday at the bar counter. They usually have an assortment of cookies, cupcakes, and brilliantly hued macarons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Blogher-Food-2009-083.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/07/Blogher-Food-2009-083.jpg\" alt=\"Elizabeth Falkner\" title=\"Elizabeth Falkner\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-15220\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Elizabeth Falkner\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Interesting News: \u003c/em> It looks like \u003cstrong>Chef Falkner\u003c/strong> will be teaching \u003ca href=\"http://www.elizabethfalkner.com/classes.html\">cooking classes\u003c/a> in August at $65 a pop. Maybe she'll teach me how to make the Monte Cristo?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://orsonsf.com/\">Orson\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n508 4th Street\u003cbr>\n(between Bryant St & Brannan St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94107\u003cbr>\n415-777-1508\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/15218/orson-brunch-and-a-fleeting-love-affair","authors":["5037"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_3086","bayareabites_602","bayareabites_8271","bayareabites_3087","bayareabites_2878","bayareabites_493"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_7576":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_7576","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"7576","score":null,"sort":[1256393841000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"sauls-seltzer-saga-how-one-deli-kicked-the-cola-habit-embraced-the-uncertainty-of-the-future","title":"Saul's Seltzer Saga - Save The Deli","publishDate":1256393841,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/sauls-seltzer300.jpg\" alt=\"sauls seltzer\" title=\"sauls seltzer\" width=\"300\" height=\"452\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-7600\">If you're reading David Sax's recent book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.houghtonmifflinbooks.com/catalog/titledetail.cfm?titleNumber=1101285\">Save the Deli\u003c/a>, or follow \u003ca href=\"http://www.savethedeli.com\">his blog\u003c/a> or moan, as many do, about the general state of the Jewish delicatessen, then you know that it's a pivotal time in this most hallowed bastion of comfort food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For years, locavores and vegetarians, calorie-counting suburbanites and couscous-loving Sephardim and even \u003ca href=\"http://www.myspace.com/facocktarocks\">heeb-hopping hipsters\u003c/a> have been bringing their own favorite dishes to the Jewish table. You might not know this upon stepping into a deli, where piles of salty, fatty meat and schmaltz in the chopped liver and never-ending free pickles every day of the year define good eating. It's supposed to be a carefree zone where all the generations and sects can enjoy some chicken soup in relative peace.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leave it to Karen Adelman and Peter Levitt in Berkeley to begin shaking up this world a bit. As the owners and hands-on managers of \u003ca href=\"http://saulsdeli.com/\">Saul's\u003c/a>, these two widely read, passionately opinionated individuals are working hard to keep Jewish delis vibrant, relevant and delicious far into the 21st century. From adding Mediterranean mezzes to offering locally grown, locally made pickles, they're crafting a new sensibility for an old institution. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A multicultural, sustainable deli might seem like a quixotic pursuit, as many would argue that we should leave well enough alone. Any real and authentic Jewish deli doesn't need to concern itself with all this modern fancifying. But if you're a deli owner and you see your customers coming into your dining room less and less often -– how many pastrami sandwiches does one person eat these days? -- you realize that things need to change to keep going.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/sauls-pickles500.jpg\" alt=\"sauls pickles\" title=\"sauls pickles\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7601\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, ideals do have a way of bumping up against reality. Let's take the last thing on the menu, that list of drinks at the end of the page. Such a minor thing, no? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, as it turns out, simple it most definitely is not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For diners, drinks are usually just an afterthought. For green-minded business owners, though, the environmental costs of transporting flavored water, the impact of corn syrup and artificial sweeteners in our communities, and the waste of thousands upon thousands of empty cans and glass cannot be ignored. If you're somewhat concerned, you might just put out a recycling bin and offer a few cents off on coffee poured into insulated mugs. If you're a little more committed, you might try sourcing local sodas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you're Karen and Peter, you have a much, much longer road to travel. You begin by studying the history of sodas and the science of bubbles. Along the way, you learn about the monopolistic technologies of multinational food corporations. You connect the dots between individual soda jerks, creative spirit and community values. You daydream down a short detour, one that takes you past designs for a working seltzer tap at each and every booth. You decide to compromise, backtracking to install a central seltzer dispenser. You call up a beer tap specialist to design a brand-new beverage system for you. You track down stronger fittings that can hold up to the pressure of C02. You convince colleagues that going back in time 60 years to revive obsolete tastes and technology will be a good thing for the business. You train special \"seltzer baristas\" to use the finicky machine with its nonstandard formulations. You develop recipe after recipe from scratch. (Cream Soda #8, you think, seems especially promising.) Then, years later, you launch your own house-made seltzers and, in a moment of unrestrained ambition, you decide to stop selling bottled, commercial sodas entirely. Even Dr. Brown's. Yes, even the Black Cherry and Cel-Ray.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it's still not done. Now, you smile politely at your customers' dismay when they can no longer grab a can of soda with their take-out lunch and nod synpathetically at those most earnest of drinkers, the Diet Coke loyalists. You accept losing thousands of dollars in beverage sales. At the same time, you account for higher food costs because your drink bases, made from real fruit, are good for only four hours. You create and hope that your customers will enjoy the special syrups that taste slightly different day to day in flavors that come and go with the seasons. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You stand back and imagine a dining room full of people sipping sodas made by friends and neighbors from fresh fruit and whole spices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You win some -- these sodas are phenomenal and you're proud and ecstatic, if a bit exhausted. They more than make up for past battles lost. There's still that ongoing campaign to source enough briskets from grass-fed cattle to feed your hungry customers. And let's not forget the recent Pickle Squirmish, when you tried charging for kosher dills -- in a deli! -- and took a fatal stab at explaining the seasonality of cucumbers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, one step at a time, one step at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, you're happy to offer a taste of history: the sweet satisfaction and elusive effervescence of \u003ca href=\"http://saulsdeli.com/deli/housemade-soda-syrups/\">\u003cstrong>real seltzer flavored with homemade syrups\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/sauls-rugelah500.jpg\" alt=\"sauls rugelah\" title=\"sauls rugelah\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7602\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Save the Deli: In Search of Perfect Pastrami, Crusty Rye and the Heart of the Jewish Delicatessen\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBy David Sax (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2009)\u003cbr>\nSax's campaign to save the deli, as one mom-and-pop sandwich shop after another closes, brings him to the Bay Area this week. Stop by and meet him at Saul's this Saturday afternoon or at Book Passage on Monday at the Ferry Building. Listen to him read from his new book and then ask him for yourself: which city makes the best pastrami and why do we have to drink egg creams so fast and, yes, that most important question, what is the future of the Jewish delicatessen? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Saturday, October 24, 2009\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4:00 pm\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://saulsdeli.com/\">Saul's Restaurant and Deli\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1475 Shattuck Ave Berkeley, CA 94709\u003cbr>\n(510) 848-3354\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&client=safari&q=map+saul's+Berkeley,+CA+94709&ie=UTF8&hq=saul's&hnear=Berkeley,+CA+94709&z=16&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Monday, October 26, 2009\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n6:00 pm\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/content.php?id=17\">Book Passage\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1 Ferry Building, #42\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94111\u003cbr>\n(415) 835-1020\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=ferry+building+san+francisco&sll=37.880719,-122.26893&sspn=0.014955,0.013797&ie=UTF8&hq=ferry+building&hnear=San+Francisco,+CA&ll=37.771529,-122.400055&spn=0.232846,0.220757&z=12&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Leave it to Karen Peterman and Peter Levitt in Berkeley to begin shaking things up. As the owners and very hands-on managers of \u003ca href=\"http://saulsdeli.com/\">Saul's\u003c/a>, these two widely read, passionately opinionated individuals are working hard to keep Jewish delis vibrant and relevant and delicious in the 21st century. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1256745423,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":19,"wordCount":1021},"headData":{"title":"Saul's Seltzer Saga - Save The Deli | KQED","description":"Leave it to Karen Peterman and Peter Levitt in Berkeley to begin shaking things up. As the owners and very hands-on managers of Saul's, these two widely read, passionately opinionated individuals are working hard to keep Jewish delis vibrant and relevant and delicious in the 21st century. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"7576 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=7576","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/10/24/sauls-seltzer-saga-how-one-deli-kicked-the-cola-habit-embraced-the-uncertainty-of-the-future/","disqusTitle":"Saul's Seltzer Saga - Save The Deli","path":"/bayareabites/7576/sauls-seltzer-saga-how-one-deli-kicked-the-cola-habit-embraced-the-uncertainty-of-the-future","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/sauls-seltzer300.jpg\" alt=\"sauls seltzer\" title=\"sauls seltzer\" width=\"300\" height=\"452\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-7600\">If you're reading David Sax's recent book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.houghtonmifflinbooks.com/catalog/titledetail.cfm?titleNumber=1101285\">Save the Deli\u003c/a>, or follow \u003ca href=\"http://www.savethedeli.com\">his blog\u003c/a> or moan, as many do, about the general state of the Jewish delicatessen, then you know that it's a pivotal time in this most hallowed bastion of comfort food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For years, locavores and vegetarians, calorie-counting suburbanites and couscous-loving Sephardim and even \u003ca href=\"http://www.myspace.com/facocktarocks\">heeb-hopping hipsters\u003c/a> have been bringing their own favorite dishes to the Jewish table. You might not know this upon stepping into a deli, where piles of salty, fatty meat and schmaltz in the chopped liver and never-ending free pickles every day of the year define good eating. It's supposed to be a carefree zone where all the generations and sects can enjoy some chicken soup in relative peace.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leave it to Karen Adelman and Peter Levitt in Berkeley to begin shaking up this world a bit. As the owners and hands-on managers of \u003ca href=\"http://saulsdeli.com/\">Saul's\u003c/a>, these two widely read, passionately opinionated individuals are working hard to keep Jewish delis vibrant, relevant and delicious far into the 21st century. From adding Mediterranean mezzes to offering locally grown, locally made pickles, they're crafting a new sensibility for an old institution. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A multicultural, sustainable deli might seem like a quixotic pursuit, as many would argue that we should leave well enough alone. Any real and authentic Jewish deli doesn't need to concern itself with all this modern fancifying. But if you're a deli owner and you see your customers coming into your dining room less and less often -– how many pastrami sandwiches does one person eat these days? -- you realize that things need to change to keep going.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/sauls-pickles500.jpg\" alt=\"sauls pickles\" title=\"sauls pickles\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7601\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, ideals do have a way of bumping up against reality. Let's take the last thing on the menu, that list of drinks at the end of the page. Such a minor thing, no? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, as it turns out, simple it most definitely is not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For diners, drinks are usually just an afterthought. For green-minded business owners, though, the environmental costs of transporting flavored water, the impact of corn syrup and artificial sweeteners in our communities, and the waste of thousands upon thousands of empty cans and glass cannot be ignored. If you're somewhat concerned, you might just put out a recycling bin and offer a few cents off on coffee poured into insulated mugs. If you're a little more committed, you might try sourcing local sodas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you're Karen and Peter, you have a much, much longer road to travel. You begin by studying the history of sodas and the science of bubbles. Along the way, you learn about the monopolistic technologies of multinational food corporations. You connect the dots between individual soda jerks, creative spirit and community values. You daydream down a short detour, one that takes you past designs for a working seltzer tap at each and every booth. You decide to compromise, backtracking to install a central seltzer dispenser. You call up a beer tap specialist to design a brand-new beverage system for you. You track down stronger fittings that can hold up to the pressure of C02. You convince colleagues that going back in time 60 years to revive obsolete tastes and technology will be a good thing for the business. You train special \"seltzer baristas\" to use the finicky machine with its nonstandard formulations. You develop recipe after recipe from scratch. (Cream Soda #8, you think, seems especially promising.) Then, years later, you launch your own house-made seltzers and, in a moment of unrestrained ambition, you decide to stop selling bottled, commercial sodas entirely. Even Dr. Brown's. Yes, even the Black Cherry and Cel-Ray.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it's still not done. Now, you smile politely at your customers' dismay when they can no longer grab a can of soda with their take-out lunch and nod synpathetically at those most earnest of drinkers, the Diet Coke loyalists. You accept losing thousands of dollars in beverage sales. At the same time, you account for higher food costs because your drink bases, made from real fruit, are good for only four hours. You create and hope that your customers will enjoy the special syrups that taste slightly different day to day in flavors that come and go with the seasons. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You stand back and imagine a dining room full of people sipping sodas made by friends and neighbors from fresh fruit and whole spices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You win some -- these sodas are phenomenal and you're proud and ecstatic, if a bit exhausted. They more than make up for past battles lost. There's still that ongoing campaign to source enough briskets from grass-fed cattle to feed your hungry customers. And let's not forget the recent Pickle Squirmish, when you tried charging for kosher dills -- in a deli! -- and took a fatal stab at explaining the seasonality of cucumbers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, one step at a time, one step at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, you're happy to offer a taste of history: the sweet satisfaction and elusive effervescence of \u003ca href=\"http://saulsdeli.com/deli/housemade-soda-syrups/\">\u003cstrong>real seltzer flavored with homemade syrups\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/10/sauls-rugelah500.jpg\" alt=\"sauls rugelah\" title=\"sauls rugelah\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7602\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Save the Deli: In Search of Perfect Pastrami, Crusty Rye and the Heart of the Jewish Delicatessen\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBy David Sax (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2009)\u003cbr>\nSax's campaign to save the deli, as one mom-and-pop sandwich shop after another closes, brings him to the Bay Area this week. Stop by and meet him at Saul's this Saturday afternoon or at Book Passage on Monday at the Ferry Building. Listen to him read from his new book and then ask him for yourself: which city makes the best pastrami and why do we have to drink egg creams so fast and, yes, that most important question, what is the future of the Jewish delicatessen? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Saturday, October 24, 2009\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4:00 pm\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://saulsdeli.com/\">Saul's Restaurant and Deli\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1475 Shattuck Ave Berkeley, CA 94709\u003cbr>\n(510) 848-3354\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&client=safari&q=map+saul's+Berkeley,+CA+94709&ie=UTF8&hq=saul's&hnear=Berkeley,+CA+94709&z=16&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Monday, October 26, 2009\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n6:00 pm\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/content.php?id=17\">Book Passage\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1 Ferry Building, #42\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94111\u003cbr>\n(415) 835-1020\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=ferry+building+san+francisco&sll=37.880719,-122.26893&sspn=0.014955,0.013797&ie=UTF8&hq=ferry+building&hnear=San+Francisco,+CA&ll=37.771529,-122.400055&spn=0.232846,0.220757&z=12&iwloc=A\">Map\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/7576/sauls-seltzer-saga-how-one-deli-kicked-the-cola-habit-embraced-the-uncertainty-of-the-future","authors":["5018"],"categories":["bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_14751","bayareabites_2881","bayareabites_48","bayareabites_2879","bayareabites_2877","bayareabites_2876","bayareabites_2878","bayareabites_2880","bayareabites_2882"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/possible-5gxfizEbKOJ-pbF5ASgxrs_.1400x1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/ATC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. 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And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/powerpress/1440_0017_BayCurious_iTunesTile_01.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2021/10/BBC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/CodeSwitchLifeKit_StationGraphics_300x300EmailGraphic.png","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. 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