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The curtain goes up on an Oliveto apprenticeship
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While she cooks part-time healthy, organic meals for busy families, she is also a contributing editor of j. weekly, the Bay Area’s Jewish newspaper, in which she has a monthly food column. Her food writing can also be found on Berkeleyside’s NOSH and in Edible East Bay. In addition to food, she loves writing about how couples met and fell in love, which she does for The San Francisco Chronicle’s Style section and j. weekly. In 2016, she founded The Illuminoshi: The Not-So-Secret Society of Bay Area Jewish Food Professionals. She is also writer/producer for a documentary-in-progress called \u003ca href=\"https://www.lonelychildmovie.com/\">The Lonely Child\u003c/a>. 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Klein, whose restaurant draws from Northern California’s bounty of vegetables, fish, and meat for its Italian-inspired meals, was troubled that he couldn’t find a local source of whole grain flour to make pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s no fully formed local grain economy in the U.S.,” Klein told Civil Eats after his company Community Grains hosted a \u003ca href=\"http://www.communitygrains.com/2016cgconference/\">conference\u003c/a> that brought together farmers, plant breeders, millers, bakers, and researchers. (The first conference \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2014/03/19/what-if-everything-you-knew-about-grains-was-wrong/\">took place\u003c/a> in 2014). “It takes lots of land and capital to be economically viable.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now Klein and his organization are making strides towards putting in place the missing components needed to advance that vision. What’s behind his quest to get locally grown and milled whole grains into the mainstream? Better nutrition, greater consumer availability, and higher prices for grain farmers, Klein says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last fall, Community Grains completed a feasibility study (funded by the U.S. Department of Agriculture) showing that bakers were willing to pay over 25 percent more for their organic heirloom wheat flour (grown and milled in California) than the going market price for standard organic wheat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of the so-called \u003ca href=\"http://www.grainstorm.com/pages/modern-wheat\">whole wheat bread\u003c/a> found in grocery stores and artisan bakeries today isn’t made with a very high percentage of whole grains, says Craig Ponsford, a champion artisan baker based in the Bay Area who transitioned to baking with 100 percent whole grains six years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“That’s because the market is geared towards white flour,” he says. “It’s really difficult for the consumer to read ‘whole grain’ labels and understand [what they really mean].”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because of the industrial food system’s appetite for white flour, grain processing facilities in America are almost exclusively comprised of machinery that strips down the whole grain to its starchy white endosperm as quickly as possible—which effectively gets rid of its more nutrient-dense bran and germ. (The air classifier mill that Community Grains uses at \u003ca href=\"http://www.baystatemilling.com/\">Bay State Milling\u003c/a> to grind its flour keeps the bran and germ intact).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This means that farmers have no incentive to grow higher quality wheat, such as organic or heirloom varieties, Klein says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what about the few who were doing just that? “The price [the wheat] commanded was 15 to 20 percent less than what the crop was worth,” Klein says. “It’s the disparity between the industrial model and what people value.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Educating the public about the value of whole grains, Ponsford and Klein agree, is their biggest task in starting to shift the U.S. supply, infrastructure, and market demand needed for local, whole grain economies to thrive. There are a few exceptions, such as \u003ca href=\"http://camas.squarespace.com/\">Camas Country Mill\u003c/a> near Eugene, Oregon, which grows, mills, and sells whole grain; \u003ca href=\"http://www.farmergroundflour.com/\">Farmer Ground Flour\u003c/a>, located in upstate New York, a collaborative enterprise where the grain is grown, milled and \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2014/06/25/bread-love-the-art-of-baking-with-local-flour/\">baked\u003c/a> for locals to enjoy; and \u003ca href=\"http://wildhivefarm.com/\">Wild Hive Farm Community Grain project\u003c/a>, which \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2012/09/27/bring-back-local-grains-one-mans-quest-in-upstate-ny/\">operates a farm and mill\u003c/a> in New York’s Hudson River Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So in 2009, Klein formed Community Grains with the intention to make that economy a reality. Since then the organization has been producing the grain for its “\u003ca href=\"http://www.communitygrains.com/the-fully-realized-dream-identity-preserved-wheat/\">identity preserved\u003c/a>” flours, polenta, and pastas. Each batch is branded with both the name of the grain (such as \u003ca href=\"http://shop.communitygrains.com/collections/all/products/identity-preserved-fettuccine-pasta\">Hard Amber Durum\u003c/a>) used entirely to make the pasta, as well as the farm that grew it, such as \u003ca href=\"http://fullbellyfarm.com/\">Full Belly Farm\u003c/a>). It’s available in Whole Foods Markets specialty grocers across the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back then, when Community Grains first approached farmers \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bT0fG1Hi4p4\">Fritz Durst\u003c/a> (Tule Farms) and Full Belly Farm’s Paul Muller about growing whole grains for the identity preserved products, Klein says he had no problem getting them on board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“[Farmers] know better than anyone how broken our commodity food system is,” Klein said. “So, I think we all started from the same place, and it had to be a completely alternative system to succeed.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other Northern California farms (including Healdsburg’s \u003ca href=\"https://fpfarm.com/\">Front Porch Farm\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cokefarm.com/\">Coke Farms\u003c/a> in San Benito) grow for Community Grains as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there was no large granary that could both clean and store their grain. And Klein soon discovered that this lack of infrastructure restricted the venture’s efficiency and profitability.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Right now we have kernels of wheat that have been thoroughly cleaned and they’re sitting in a defunct winery facility,” he says. “But we’re concerned about bugs in the warm months, so are so moving it into a rented refrigerated storage facility. If we had our own [cleaning and storage facility], we wouldn’t have to pay for storing it, and moving it in and out.” But, he adds, that’s going to be an expensive addition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To address this issue, Klein brought on Heather Crawford, a business-minded colleague with the background to determine just how Community Grains can build this infrastructure. The two have found that building a granary and getting it online in California could cost anywhere between $500,000 to $1 million. But with donations from a crowdfunding campaign, as well as help from several investors and banks, Klein says there’s a chance Community Grains could get the structure up and running by 2017.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while Community Grains has yet to work out the exact details of the business model, Klein says that the goal is make sure it’s profitable and 50 percent owned by the grain farmers themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, Ponsford is continuing to experiment with these whole grains. For the last five years, he’s run \u003ca href=\"http://ponsfordsplace.com/Ponsfords_Place/Ponsfords_Place.html\">Ponsford’s Place\u003c/a>, his bakery in the North Bay, where he uses only uses 100 percent whole grains such as hard white whole wheat and spelt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m incredibly disciplined about not using white flour,” he said. “I’m trying to prove a point.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a recent Friday morning, his tiny (800 square foot) bakery was filled with customers buying bread and choosing from a display case full of fruit turnovers, cinnamon morning buns, cookies, and quiche.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what the customers don’t see is the experimental side of the bakery, when Ponsford works during the wee hours of the night with whole grain flour dropped off by several of the same farmers that work with Community Grains as well as a few others. He tests them by making different types of dough and experiments with a variety of final products. “The whole point of this place is to develop skill sets around whole grains and find the best use of each grain,” he said. “Wheat is complicated.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s in part because the type and quality of the soil impacts the quality of the wheat, which in turn can determine if it will be better suited to, say, a loaf of bread or a tortilla.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ponsford says that he has also been putting pressure on other bakers to start using whole grains. And he thinks he’s having an impact.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I see a slow shift happening,” he said. “Five years ago my peers weren’t interested. But now I’m seeing more and more bakers using whole grains all over the world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ABOUT THE WRITER\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nKristine Wong is a multimedia journalist who reports on energy, the environment, green tech, sustainable business, and food. Her work has been featured in a number of publications, including\u003cem>The Guardian\u003c/em> US/UK, The Huffington Post, \u003cem>Modern Farmer\u003c/em>, TakePart and \u003cem>Sierra Magazine\u003c/em>. Before becoming a journalist, she worked in community-based environmental and public health organizations for more than 10 years.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Community Grains' effort to bring together farmers, plant breeders, millers, and bakers may finally be paying off.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1465511808,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":29,"wordCount":1363},"headData":{"title":"A Local Grain Economy Comes to Life in California | KQED","description":"Community Grains' effort to bring together farmers, plant breeders, millers, and bakers may finally be paying off.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"A Local Grain Economy Comes to Life in California","datePublished":"2016-06-09T22:24:28.000Z","dateModified":"2016-06-09T22:36:48.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"109984 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=109984","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/06/09/a-local-grain-economy-comes-to-life-in-california/","disqusTitle":"A Local Grain Economy Comes to Life in California","nprByline":" \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/author/kwong/\">Kristine Wong\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/civileat/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>","path":"/bayareabites/109984/a-local-grain-economy-comes-to-life-in-california","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When it comes to buying a local loaf of bread, most food conscious consumers find that supporting a small neighborhood bakery fits the criteria just fine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for longtime restaurateur Bob Klein, the owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.oliveto.com/\">Oliveto\u003c/a> in Oakland, California, that wasn’t enough. Klein, whose restaurant draws from Northern California’s bounty of vegetables, fish, and meat for its Italian-inspired meals, was troubled that he couldn’t find a local source of whole grain flour to make pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s no fully formed local grain economy in the U.S.,” Klein told Civil Eats after his company Community Grains hosted a \u003ca href=\"http://www.communitygrains.com/2016cgconference/\">conference\u003c/a> that brought together farmers, plant breeders, millers, bakers, and researchers. (The first conference \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2014/03/19/what-if-everything-you-knew-about-grains-was-wrong/\">took place\u003c/a> in 2014). “It takes lots of land and capital to be economically viable.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now Klein and his organization are making strides towards putting in place the missing components needed to advance that vision. What’s behind his quest to get locally grown and milled whole grains into the mainstream? Better nutrition, greater consumer availability, and higher prices for grain farmers, Klein says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last fall, Community Grains completed a feasibility study (funded by the U.S. Department of Agriculture) showing that bakers were willing to pay over 25 percent more for their organic heirloom wheat flour (grown and milled in California) than the going market price for standard organic wheat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of the so-called \u003ca href=\"http://www.grainstorm.com/pages/modern-wheat\">whole wheat bread\u003c/a> found in grocery stores and artisan bakeries today isn’t made with a very high percentage of whole grains, says Craig Ponsford, a champion artisan baker based in the Bay Area who transitioned to baking with 100 percent whole grains six years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“That’s because the market is geared towards white flour,” he says. “It’s really difficult for the consumer to read ‘whole grain’ labels and understand [what they really mean].”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because of the industrial food system’s appetite for white flour, grain processing facilities in America are almost exclusively comprised of machinery that strips down the whole grain to its starchy white endosperm as quickly as possible—which effectively gets rid of its more nutrient-dense bran and germ. (The air classifier mill that Community Grains uses at \u003ca href=\"http://www.baystatemilling.com/\">Bay State Milling\u003c/a> to grind its flour keeps the bran and germ intact).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This means that farmers have no incentive to grow higher quality wheat, such as organic or heirloom varieties, Klein says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what about the few who were doing just that? “The price [the wheat] commanded was 15 to 20 percent less than what the crop was worth,” Klein says. “It’s the disparity between the industrial model and what people value.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Educating the public about the value of whole grains, Ponsford and Klein agree, is their biggest task in starting to shift the U.S. supply, infrastructure, and market demand needed for local, whole grain economies to thrive. There are a few exceptions, such as \u003ca href=\"http://camas.squarespace.com/\">Camas Country Mill\u003c/a> near Eugene, Oregon, which grows, mills, and sells whole grain; \u003ca href=\"http://www.farmergroundflour.com/\">Farmer Ground Flour\u003c/a>, located in upstate New York, a collaborative enterprise where the grain is grown, milled and \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2014/06/25/bread-love-the-art-of-baking-with-local-flour/\">baked\u003c/a> for locals to enjoy; and \u003ca href=\"http://wildhivefarm.com/\">Wild Hive Farm Community Grain project\u003c/a>, which \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2012/09/27/bring-back-local-grains-one-mans-quest-in-upstate-ny/\">operates a farm and mill\u003c/a> in New York’s Hudson River Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So in 2009, Klein formed Community Grains with the intention to make that economy a reality. Since then the organization has been producing the grain for its “\u003ca href=\"http://www.communitygrains.com/the-fully-realized-dream-identity-preserved-wheat/\">identity preserved\u003c/a>” flours, polenta, and pastas. Each batch is branded with both the name of the grain (such as \u003ca href=\"http://shop.communitygrains.com/collections/all/products/identity-preserved-fettuccine-pasta\">Hard Amber Durum\u003c/a>) used entirely to make the pasta, as well as the farm that grew it, such as \u003ca href=\"http://fullbellyfarm.com/\">Full Belly Farm\u003c/a>). It’s available in Whole Foods Markets specialty grocers across the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back then, when Community Grains first approached farmers \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bT0fG1Hi4p4\">Fritz Durst\u003c/a> (Tule Farms) and Full Belly Farm’s Paul Muller about growing whole grains for the identity preserved products, Klein says he had no problem getting them on board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“[Farmers] know better than anyone how broken our commodity food system is,” Klein said. “So, I think we all started from the same place, and it had to be a completely alternative system to succeed.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other Northern California farms (including Healdsburg’s \u003ca href=\"https://fpfarm.com/\">Front Porch Farm\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cokefarm.com/\">Coke Farms\u003c/a> in San Benito) grow for Community Grains as well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there was no large granary that could both clean and store their grain. And Klein soon discovered that this lack of infrastructure restricted the venture’s efficiency and profitability.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Right now we have kernels of wheat that have been thoroughly cleaned and they’re sitting in a defunct winery facility,” he says. “But we’re concerned about bugs in the warm months, so are so moving it into a rented refrigerated storage facility. If we had our own [cleaning and storage facility], we wouldn’t have to pay for storing it, and moving it in and out.” But, he adds, that’s going to be an expensive addition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To address this issue, Klein brought on Heather Crawford, a business-minded colleague with the background to determine just how Community Grains can build this infrastructure. The two have found that building a granary and getting it online in California could cost anywhere between $500,000 to $1 million. But with donations from a crowdfunding campaign, as well as help from several investors and banks, Klein says there’s a chance Community Grains could get the structure up and running by 2017.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while Community Grains has yet to work out the exact details of the business model, Klein says that the goal is make sure it’s profitable and 50 percent owned by the grain farmers themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the meantime, Ponsford is continuing to experiment with these whole grains. For the last five years, he’s run \u003ca href=\"http://ponsfordsplace.com/Ponsfords_Place/Ponsfords_Place.html\">Ponsford’s Place\u003c/a>, his bakery in the North Bay, where he uses only uses 100 percent whole grains such as hard white whole wheat and spelt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m incredibly disciplined about not using white flour,” he said. “I’m trying to prove a point.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a recent Friday morning, his tiny (800 square foot) bakery was filled with customers buying bread and choosing from a display case full of fruit turnovers, cinnamon morning buns, cookies, and quiche.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what the customers don’t see is the experimental side of the bakery, when Ponsford works during the wee hours of the night with whole grain flour dropped off by several of the same farmers that work with Community Grains as well as a few others. He tests them by making different types of dough and experiments with a variety of final products. “The whole point of this place is to develop skill sets around whole grains and find the best use of each grain,” he said. “Wheat is complicated.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s in part because the type and quality of the soil impacts the quality of the wheat, which in turn can determine if it will be better suited to, say, a loaf of bread or a tortilla.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ponsford says that he has also been putting pressure on other bakers to start using whole grains. And he thinks he’s having an impact.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I see a slow shift happening,” he said. “Five years ago my peers weren’t interested. But now I’m seeing more and more bakers using whole grains all over the world.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ABOUT THE WRITER\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nKristine Wong is a multimedia journalist who reports on energy, the environment, green tech, sustainable business, and food. Her work has been featured in a number of publications, including\u003cem>The Guardian\u003c/em> US/UK, The Huffington Post, \u003cem>Modern Farmer\u003c/em>, TakePart and \u003cem>Sierra Magazine\u003c/em>. Before becoming a journalist, she worked in community-based environmental and public health organizations for more than 10 years.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/109984/a-local-grain-economy-comes-to-life-in-california","authors":["byline_bayareabites_109984"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_4084"],"tags":["bayareabites_10060","bayareabites_12961","bayareabites_2238"],"featImg":"bayareabites_109987","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_91355":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_91355","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"91355","score":null,"sort":[1420498823000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"two-east-bay-restaurants-take-unique-approach-to-noise","title":"Two East Bay Restaurants Take Unique Approach to Noise","publishDate":1420498823,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Any regular reader of the \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Inside Scoop SF\u003c/a> restaurant news blog of the San Francisco Chronicle knows that its food critic, \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/section/michael-bauer/\" target=\"_blank\">Michael Bauer\u003c/a>, spends a considerable amount of his time blogging about noise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s entirely reader-driven, he says, and it’s why the Chronicle began including decibel level ratings in every restaurant review it prints.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, he writes in a post from last year, despite these ratings, the noise levels continue to grow. “It’s one of the most frequent topics — and complaints — I get as a restaurant critic,” he wrote in 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91841\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/oliveto-entrance-stairway1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/oliveto-entrance-stairway1000.jpg\" alt=\"Oliveto entrance and stairway connecting dining area to cafe. Photo: Cesar Rubio\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91841\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oliveto entrance and stairway connecting dining area to cafe. Photo: Cesar Rubio\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two East Bay restaurants have tried to remedy the acoustics problem by installing sophisticated sound systems by the Berkeley-based \u003ca href=\"http://meyersound.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Meyer Sound\u003c/a>. It’s where Bob and Maggie Klein turned when redesigning \u003ca href=\"http://www.oliveto.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Oliveto\u003c/a>, a mainstay of Oakland’s dining scene for the past 28 years. The specialty firm has done sound locally for downtown Berkeley’s Comal, but is better known for its acoustic systems at such places as UC Berkeley’s Zellerbach Hall, Lincoln Center and Royal Albert Hall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If you have an option, why would you go out with someone you want to be with, and want to connect with, to a place where you can’t hear them?” Bob Klein wondered at a media dinner recently, held to demonstrate the new state-of-the-art sound system he just included in his first redesign in 18 years. “It diminishes the experience for everyone – even those with good hearing – when they are straining to hear each other.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91853\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/01/oliveto1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/01/oliveto1000.jpg\" alt=\"Oliveto upstairs dining area. Photo: Cesar Rubio\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91853\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oliveto upstairs dining area. Photo: Cesar Rubio\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Oliveto’s renovation began with a passive acoustic treatment, in which the ceiling was replaced with more sound-absorbent tile. A wall of banquettes now has large photographs of olive trees, taken by Bay Area photographer \u003ca href=\"http://www.deborahogrady.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Deborah O’Grady\u003c/a>, which are actually Meyer Sound Libra acoustic image panels – for which they’ve just received a patent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Klein was able to turn on and off the new sound system on an iPad, sitting at our table. It has nine settings, including one that makes the dining room sound like a stone cathedral, if they want to have musical events. It can be adjusted with settings for low, medium, high occupancy and very high occupancy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91847\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/oliveto1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/oliveto1000.jpg\" alt=\"Oliveto downstairs cafe. Photo: Cesar Rubio\" width=\"1000\" height=\"707\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91847\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oliveto downstairs cafe. Photo: Cesar Rubio\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We basically used the same kind of technology at Oliveto that we’ve used in concert halls around the world,” said Pierre Germain, senior acoustic engineer for Meyer Sound. “If the restaurant is low occupancy, Bob can put the system on the low occupancy setting, which gives the feel of a more bustling restaurant so you don’t feel isolated at your table, and as it fills up, he can bring the noise level down. At the high occupancy setting, the sound system is operating at a very low level, maintaining a level of atmosphere or buzziness, all the while being able to hear the conversation at your table.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91846\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 865px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/comal.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/comal.jpg\" alt=\"Interior at Comal in Berkeley. Photo courtesy of Comal\" width=\"865\" height=\"577\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91846\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Interior at Comal in Berkeley. Photo courtesy of Comal\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.comalberkeley.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Comal\u003c/a> was actually the first restaurant to work with Meyer Sound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We have a challenging acoustical space in its raw form,” said John Paluska, Comal’s owner, “in that it has the same characteristics that a lot of restaurants do, it looks cool with its hard concrete and large volume of space, but it would be a very different experience if we didn’t have the system that we do.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paluska said it was fortuitous timing that Meyer Sound was looking to get into doing sound systems for restaurants and used Comal as a sort of experimental lab so they could work out an arrangement that was beneficial to the both of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paluska said Comal’s system is not noticeable to most patrons, “but that they feel it even if they don’t recognize it.” He added, “I go out to other places in the East Bay, and then come to Comal afterwards, and it’s never more of a jarring, obvious shift than when I’ve been elsewhere. Comal feels so different.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91845\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 878px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/comal3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/comal3.jpg\" alt=\"Interior at Comal Restaurant in Berkeley. Photo courtesy of Comal\" width=\"878\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91845\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Interior at Comal Restaurant in Berkeley. Photo courtesy of Comal\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Many restaurants in the city turn to acoustic designer \u003ca href=\"http://www.wallcoveringdesigns.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Wall Covering Designs\u003c/a>, when they realize the noise level has gotten out of hand. The firm lists numerous Bay Area restaurants it has worked with, mostly as part of a redesign when its owners realize noise has become a problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But not everyone can afford such a sound system. Klein isn’t saying how much such sophisticated technology costs, and the Meyer Sound people are the first to admit the investment is “significant.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nonetheless, it’s an investment that more restauranteurs should be thinking about, Germain believes. “A lot of restaurants go for a very industrial look with reflective surfaces such as concrete and glass and the end result is a very loud restaurant that only young people will like,” said Germain. “We’re trying to raise the awareness for architects and developers to devote funds to this. People who have visited Comal and Oliveto have noticed, it’s definitely something architects are coming around to understanding.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Robert Fink of \u003ca href=\"http://finkarchitecture.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Fink Architecture\u003c/a>, says there are design elements he can implement himself in a restaurant’s design from the get-go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fink has helped design or remodel around 12 Bay Area restaurants, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.eldoradosonoma.com/\" target=\"_blank\">El Dorado Kitchen\u003c/a> in Sonoma and Yountville’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.redd-wood.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Redd Wood\u003c/a>. “It’s almost always an issue in trying to find the most economical way to deal with it in an aesthetically pleasing way,” said Fink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In general, he said there are two elements to consider: “You need something that absorbs the sound and you need to be aware of things that will reflect the sound to balance it around the room.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for those who can afford it, a sophisticated sound system could be the way to attract older diners to their restaurant. “We’re not changing the world,” said Paluska, but “we think it makes dining out a more pleasant experience for people.” \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Restaurant acoustics is a frequent complaint by patrons and continues to be a growing problem with industrial-style spaces. Two East Bay restaurants have tried to remedy the noise problem by installing sophisticated sound systems by the Berkeley-based Meyer Sound.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1420741762,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":21,"wordCount":1080},"headData":{"title":"Two East Bay Restaurants Take Unique Approach to Noise | KQED","description":"Restaurant acoustics is a frequent complaint by patrons and continues to be a growing problem with industrial-style spaces. Two East Bay restaurants have tried to remedy the noise problem by installing sophisticated sound systems by the Berkeley-based Meyer Sound.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Two East Bay Restaurants Take Unique Approach to Noise","datePublished":"2015-01-05T23:00:23.000Z","dateModified":"2015-01-08T18:29:22.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"91355 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=91355","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/01/05/two-east-bay-restaurants-take-unique-approach-to-noise/","disqusTitle":"Two East Bay Restaurants Take Unique Approach to Noise","path":"/bayareabites/91355/two-east-bay-restaurants-take-unique-approach-to-noise","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Any regular reader of the \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Inside Scoop SF\u003c/a> restaurant news blog of the San Francisco Chronicle knows that its food critic, \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/blog/section/michael-bauer/\" target=\"_blank\">Michael Bauer\u003c/a>, spends a considerable amount of his time blogging about noise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s entirely reader-driven, he says, and it’s why the Chronicle began including decibel level ratings in every restaurant review it prints.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, he writes in a post from last year, despite these ratings, the noise levels continue to grow. “It’s one of the most frequent topics — and complaints — I get as a restaurant critic,” he wrote in 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91841\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/oliveto-entrance-stairway1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/oliveto-entrance-stairway1000.jpg\" alt=\"Oliveto entrance and stairway connecting dining area to cafe. Photo: Cesar Rubio\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91841\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oliveto entrance and stairway connecting dining area to cafe. Photo: Cesar Rubio\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two East Bay restaurants have tried to remedy the acoustics problem by installing sophisticated sound systems by the Berkeley-based \u003ca href=\"http://meyersound.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Meyer Sound\u003c/a>. It’s where Bob and Maggie Klein turned when redesigning \u003ca href=\"http://www.oliveto.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Oliveto\u003c/a>, a mainstay of Oakland’s dining scene for the past 28 years. The specialty firm has done sound locally for downtown Berkeley’s Comal, but is better known for its acoustic systems at such places as UC Berkeley’s Zellerbach Hall, Lincoln Center and Royal Albert Hall.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If you have an option, why would you go out with someone you want to be with, and want to connect with, to a place where you can’t hear them?” Bob Klein wondered at a media dinner recently, held to demonstrate the new state-of-the-art sound system he just included in his first redesign in 18 years. “It diminishes the experience for everyone – even those with good hearing – when they are straining to hear each other.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91853\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/01/oliveto1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/01/oliveto1000.jpg\" alt=\"Oliveto upstairs dining area. Photo: Cesar Rubio\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91853\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oliveto upstairs dining area. Photo: Cesar Rubio\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Oliveto’s renovation began with a passive acoustic treatment, in which the ceiling was replaced with more sound-absorbent tile. A wall of banquettes now has large photographs of olive trees, taken by Bay Area photographer \u003ca href=\"http://www.deborahogrady.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Deborah O’Grady\u003c/a>, which are actually Meyer Sound Libra acoustic image panels – for which they’ve just received a patent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Klein was able to turn on and off the new sound system on an iPad, sitting at our table. It has nine settings, including one that makes the dining room sound like a stone cathedral, if they want to have musical events. It can be adjusted with settings for low, medium, high occupancy and very high occupancy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91847\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/oliveto1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/oliveto1000.jpg\" alt=\"Oliveto downstairs cafe. Photo: Cesar Rubio\" width=\"1000\" height=\"707\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91847\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oliveto downstairs cafe. Photo: Cesar Rubio\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“We basically used the same kind of technology at Oliveto that we’ve used in concert halls around the world,” said Pierre Germain, senior acoustic engineer for Meyer Sound. “If the restaurant is low occupancy, Bob can put the system on the low occupancy setting, which gives the feel of a more bustling restaurant so you don’t feel isolated at your table, and as it fills up, he can bring the noise level down. At the high occupancy setting, the sound system is operating at a very low level, maintaining a level of atmosphere or buzziness, all the while being able to hear the conversation at your table.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91846\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 865px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/comal.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/comal.jpg\" alt=\"Interior at Comal in Berkeley. Photo courtesy of Comal\" width=\"865\" height=\"577\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91846\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Interior at Comal in Berkeley. Photo courtesy of Comal\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Berkeley’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.comalberkeley.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Comal\u003c/a> was actually the first restaurant to work with Meyer Sound.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We have a challenging acoustical space in its raw form,” said John Paluska, Comal’s owner, “in that it has the same characteristics that a lot of restaurants do, it looks cool with its hard concrete and large volume of space, but it would be a very different experience if we didn’t have the system that we do.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paluska said it was fortuitous timing that Meyer Sound was looking to get into doing sound systems for restaurants and used Comal as a sort of experimental lab so they could work out an arrangement that was beneficial to the both of them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paluska said Comal’s system is not noticeable to most patrons, “but that they feel it even if they don’t recognize it.” He added, “I go out to other places in the East Bay, and then come to Comal afterwards, and it’s never more of a jarring, obvious shift than when I’ve been elsewhere. Comal feels so different.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_91845\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 878px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/comal3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/comal3.jpg\" alt=\"Interior at Comal Restaurant in Berkeley. Photo courtesy of Comal\" width=\"878\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-full wp-image-91845\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Interior at Comal Restaurant in Berkeley. Photo courtesy of Comal\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Many restaurants in the city turn to acoustic designer \u003ca href=\"http://www.wallcoveringdesigns.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Wall Covering Designs\u003c/a>, when they realize the noise level has gotten out of hand. The firm lists numerous Bay Area restaurants it has worked with, mostly as part of a redesign when its owners realize noise has become a problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But not everyone can afford such a sound system. Klein isn’t saying how much such sophisticated technology costs, and the Meyer Sound people are the first to admit the investment is “significant.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nonetheless, it’s an investment that more restauranteurs should be thinking about, Germain believes. “A lot of restaurants go for a very industrial look with reflective surfaces such as concrete and glass and the end result is a very loud restaurant that only young people will like,” said Germain. “We’re trying to raise the awareness for architects and developers to devote funds to this. People who have visited Comal and Oliveto have noticed, it’s definitely something architects are coming around to understanding.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Robert Fink of \u003ca href=\"http://finkarchitecture.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Fink Architecture\u003c/a>, says there are design elements he can implement himself in a restaurant’s design from the get-go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fink has helped design or remodel around 12 Bay Area restaurants, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.eldoradosonoma.com/\" target=\"_blank\">El Dorado Kitchen\u003c/a> in Sonoma and Yountville’s \u003ca href=\"http://www.redd-wood.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Redd Wood\u003c/a>. “It’s almost always an issue in trying to find the most economical way to deal with it in an aesthetically pleasing way,” said Fink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In general, he said there are two elements to consider: “You need something that absorbs the sound and you need to be aware of things that will reflect the sound to balance it around the room.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for those who can afford it, a sophisticated sound system could be the way to attract older diners to their restaurant. “We’re not changing the world,” said Paluska, but “we think it makes dining out a more pleasant experience for people.” \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/91355/two-east-bay-restaurants-take-unique-approach-to-noise","authors":["5567"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_264","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_10411","bayareabites_14773","bayareabites_14028","bayareabites_14027","bayareabites_2238"],"featImg":"bayareabites_91845","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_29417":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_29417","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"29417","score":null,"sort":[1308785088000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"walk-and-graze-in-the-wild-at-the-oakland-zoo","title":"Walk (and Graze) in the Wild at The Oakland Zoo","publishDate":1308785088,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/06/main1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/06/main1.jpg\" alt=\"walk in the wild\" title=\"main1\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-29471\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coming up this Saturday is the Oakland Zoo's 19th Annual \u003ca href=\"http://www.oaklandzoo.org/support-the-zoo/make-a-gift-to-the-zoo/walk-in-the-wild\">\u003cstrong>Walk in the Wild: An Epicurean Escapade\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, their biggest fundraising event of the year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From 5-8pm, guests \"wine, dine & stroll\" through sections of the zoo that are set up with tables from over \u003ca href=\"http://www.oaklandzoo.org/support-the-zoo/make-a-gift-to-the-zoo/walk-in-the-wild\">100 vendors in the Bay Area\u003c/a>, including \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/21/processing-the-pig-a-weekly-ritual-at-oliveto/\">Oliveto\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/07/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson/\">Plum\u003c/a>. Then there's dancing and dessert under the stars from 8-10pm. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Be sure to fast during the day if you go; my husband and I were overwhelmed by the sheer number of delicious offerings when we attended the event last year. Wandering through the zoo in the late afternoon hours was also a real treat, as well as taking a gondola ride to view the habitats of the zoo's residents from above. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/06/gondola2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/06/gondola2.jpg\" alt=\"gondola\" title=\"gondola2\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-29491\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/06/beer.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/06/beer.jpg\" alt=\"beer\" title=\"beer\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-29419\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Walk in the Wild: An Epicurean Escapade\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSaturday, June 25\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.oaklandzoo.org/\">The Oakland Zoo\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n9777 Golf Links Rd\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94605\u003cbr>\n(510) 632-9525\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wine, Dine & Stroll (5-8pm)\u003cbr>\nDancing and Dessert Under the Stars -- Flamingo Plaza (8-10pm)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Walk in the Wild main event is $125 per person for Zoo members and $150 per person for non-members. This event is adults (21+) only as alcohol will be served.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/maps?daddr=9777+Golf+Links+Rd,+Oakland,+CA+94605&geocode=CWkZ0uO-aZS5FUsIQAIdPCq4-A&dirflg=r&saddr=&f=d&hl=en&sll=37.750859,-122.148292&sspn=0.008,0.011115&date=06%2F09%2F09&time=10:49am&ttype=dep&noexp=0&noal=0&sort=&tline=&ie=UTF8&ll=37.738956,-122.117157&spn=0.128013,0.177841&z=13&start=0\">Google Map Directions\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Coming up this Saturday is the Oakland Zoo's 19th Annual Walk in the Wild: An Epicurean Escapade, their biggest fundraising event of the year.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1308785159,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":12,"wordCount":206},"headData":{"title":"Walk (and Graze) in the Wild at The Oakland Zoo | KQED","description":"Coming up this Saturday is the Oakland Zoo's 19th Annual Walk in the Wild: An Epicurean Escapade, their biggest fundraising event of the year.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Walk (and Graze) in the Wild at The Oakland Zoo","datePublished":"2011-06-22T23:24:48.000Z","dateModified":"2011-06-22T23:25:59.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"29417 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=29417","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/06/22/walk-and-graze-in-the-wild-at-the-oakland-zoo/","disqusTitle":"Walk (and Graze) in the Wild at The Oakland Zoo","path":"/bayareabites/29417/walk-and-graze-in-the-wild-at-the-oakland-zoo","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/06/main1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/06/main1.jpg\" alt=\"walk in the wild\" title=\"main1\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-29471\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coming up this Saturday is the Oakland Zoo's 19th Annual \u003ca href=\"http://www.oaklandzoo.org/support-the-zoo/make-a-gift-to-the-zoo/walk-in-the-wild\">\u003cstrong>Walk in the Wild: An Epicurean Escapade\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, their biggest fundraising event of the year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From 5-8pm, guests \"wine, dine & stroll\" through sections of the zoo that are set up with tables from over \u003ca href=\"http://www.oaklandzoo.org/support-the-zoo/make-a-gift-to-the-zoo/walk-in-the-wild\">100 vendors in the Bay Area\u003c/a>, including \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/21/processing-the-pig-a-weekly-ritual-at-oliveto/\">Oliveto\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/07/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson/\">Plum\u003c/a>. Then there's dancing and dessert under the stars from 8-10pm. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Be sure to fast during the day if you go; my husband and I were overwhelmed by the sheer number of delicious offerings when we attended the event last year. Wandering through the zoo in the late afternoon hours was also a real treat, as well as taking a gondola ride to view the habitats of the zoo's residents from above. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/06/gondola2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/06/gondola2.jpg\" alt=\"gondola\" title=\"gondola2\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-29491\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/06/beer.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/06/beer.jpg\" alt=\"beer\" title=\"beer\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-29419\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Walk in the Wild: An Epicurean Escapade\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSaturday, June 25\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.oaklandzoo.org/\">The Oakland Zoo\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n9777 Golf Links Rd\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94605\u003cbr>\n(510) 632-9525\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wine, Dine & Stroll (5-8pm)\u003cbr>\nDancing and Dessert Under the Stars -- Flamingo Plaza (8-10pm)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Walk in the Wild main event is $125 per person for Zoo members and $150 per person for non-members. This event is adults (21+) only as alcohol will be served.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.google.com/maps?daddr=9777+Golf+Links+Rd,+Oakland,+CA+94605&geocode=CWkZ0uO-aZS5FUsIQAIdPCq4-A&dirflg=r&saddr=&f=d&hl=en&sll=37.750859,-122.148292&sspn=0.008,0.011115&date=06%2F09%2F09&time=10:49am&ttype=dep&noexp=0&noal=0&sort=&tline=&ie=UTF8&ll=37.738956,-122.117157&spn=0.128013,0.177841&z=13&start=0\">Google Map Directions\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/29417/walk-and-graze-in-the-wild-at-the-oakland-zoo","authors":["2100"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_50"],"tags":["bayareabites_9159","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_9439","bayareabites_2238","bayareabites_8785","bayareabites_9440"],"featImg":"bayareabites_29471","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_6883":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_6883","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"6883","score":null,"sort":[1253553417000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"processing-the-pig-a-weekly-ritual-at-oliveto","title":"Processing the pig: a weekly ritual at Oliveto","publishDate":1253553417,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/swine500.jpg\" alt=\"Swine diagram\" title=\"Swine diagram\" width=\"500\" height=\"348\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6890\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This swine diagram in the Oliveto back office pretty much sums it up.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next to his desk in the Oliveto back office, Chef Paul Canales has taped a diagram that captures the restaurant's reverence for pork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The diagram shows a hog divided into sections, such as the shoulder and the leg. All of these sections are labeled \"Good,\" except for the belly. It is labeled \"Real Good.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pork is a constant at Oliveto. The menu revolves around it. On any given day, prep chefs can be seen breaking down a hog into various cuts -- shoulder, loin, leg -- and then processing them into porchetta, pancetta, scallopine, sausage or salumi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For an uninitiated guest to the kitchen, it can be startling to see a pig's head simmering in a stock pot or a chef hefting a hand saw on one half of a 200-pound carcass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/paul-and-kelsey500.jpg\" alt=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales seasons pork cutlets while Sous Chef Kelsey Bergstrom cuts into a pork leg with a hand saw.\" title=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales seasons pork cutlets while Sous Chef Kelsey Bergstrom cuts into a pork leg with a hand saw.\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6887\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oliveto Chef Paul Canales seasons pork cutlets while Sous Chef Kelsey Bergstrom cuts into a pork leg with a hand saw.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet if you want restaurants to be respectful of the meat they serve, extracting every ounce of flavor and using all parts of the animal, then these scenes shouldn't shock you. Many chefs run a far tidier kitchen by relying on industrial meat processors to do their butchery, delivering meat cuts that are shrink-wrapped and ready to cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oliveto's experiments with whole-hog cookery started more than a decade ago, when the restaurant, under owner Bob Klein and former Executive Chef Paul Bertolli, developed a relationship with Paul Willis and Bill Niman, founders of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nimanranch.com/index.aspx%20\">Niman Ranch\u003c/a> meat company.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Willis, a hog farmer from Iowa, met Niman in the mid-1990s, as industrial hog farming was transforming the landscape of the Midwest and North Carolina. Farmers such as Willis were trying to stay in business by marketing the quality and benefits of the pork that was raised without hormones and antibiotics, with the pigs allowed to range freely. That led to a partnership with Niman and the birth of Niman Ranch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/paul-willis-hog-500.jpg\" alt=\"Paul Watson, seen left, heads a network of 500 small farmers who supply pork to Niman Ranch.\" title=\"Paul Watson, seen left, heads a network of 500 small farmers who supply pork to Niman Ranch.\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6888\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Paul Watson, seen left, heads a network of 500 small farmers who supply pork to Niman Ranch.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Willis supervises a network of 500 farmers who produce pork for more than 1,200 restaurants, ranging from chains such as Chipotle Mexican Grill to high-end restaurants such as Oliveto. His success has inspired many other farmers, including some here in California, to grow their own pigs and market them directly to restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every Tuesday at Oliveto, a truck pulls up in the garage of the building, delivering a split carcass pig, usually from Willis. For the last several months it has been my job, along with Oliveto butcher Pablo \"Tigre\" Mendoza Gavito, to heft and these split carcasses (100 pounds) into the basement meat locker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/meat-locker500.jpg\" alt=\"meat locker\" title=\"meat locker\" width=\"500\" height=\"370\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6919\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hanging meat from hooks can be dangerous, as former Oliveto Sous Chef Curtis Di Fede demonstrates.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This can be a dangerous job. Pigs are slippery and tricky to hoist. Usually Tigre would lift from the bottom, using a small meat hook to grab hold of the carcass. My job was to grab the hind leg, attach a meat hook to the trotter, and hang the hooked carcass on the meat locker rod while Tigre hefted it from the bottom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time we attempted this together, I inadvertently left my pinkie finger in between the hook and rod. My finger was nearly crushed as the full weight of the carcass came down on the rod. Luckily, I pulled my pinkie out at the last split second.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the pigs are in the locker, the chefs assemble a game plan for breaking them down and preparing dishes. That plan changes weekly, depending on the whims of the chefs and what dishes they haven't recently prepared.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Technically, you want to use the loins and legs first, since those are most subject to spoilage,\" says Canales, who replaced Bertolli as executive chef in 2004. \"The shoulders will last the longest.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why do the shoulders last longer? As Canales notes, shoulders and other heavily used muscles tend to have high levels of myoglobin, a protein that causes the red color in meat. Birds such as ducks and pigeons have high levels of myoglobin, because they fly such long distances. As a result, ducks and pigeons resist spoilage in a refrigerator longer than chickens do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After a hog is delivered, Tigre tends to get the assignment of breaking down the hog into its component pieces. He also can be regularly seen trimming up the loin for one of the restaurant's prized dishes, the spit-roasted porchetta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/tigre-with-sausage500.jpg\" alt=\" Oliveto butcher Pablo Tigre Mendoza Gavito prepares sausage in the back kitchen.\" title=\" Oliveto butcher Pablo Tigre Mendoza Gavito prepares sausage in the back kitchen.\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6885\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oliveto butcher Pablo \"Tigre\" Mendoza Gavito prepares sausage in the back kitchen.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Porchetta is pork rolled with spices and salt into a log and then set on a rotisserie. As it roasts over hot coals, the fat renders out of the meat and keeps it juicy and savory. Slices of this log are then served with an accompaniment, such as a diavolo sauce made with chili peppers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By contrast, Oliveto generally takes cuts from the leg and turns them into scallopine or salami. Scraps from the leg are ground in a meat grinder and used in a ragu, a pasta sauce. The shoulders, meanwhile, are generally reserved for sausage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you can imagine, all this cutting and trimming results in numerous scraps that some butchers might be tempted to throw away. At Oliveto, all these scraps are further trimmed to separate meat from fat. The meat pieces are cooked down into \u003ca href=\"http://www.sacbee.com/static/weblogs/the_chef_apprentice/2009/05/paul-canales-recipe-for-a-sugo.html/022075.html?mi_rss=The%20Chef%20Apprentice\">sugo\u003c/a>, a heavily reduced pork stock, similar to a demi-glace. The rest might be used for a ciccioli, an intensely rich concoction that is made by cooking down fatty pieces of pork, compressing them and drying them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Outside of the pigs it breaks down, Oliveto also receives special orders of pork, particularly pork bellies for pancetta. These bellies arrive every other week from \u003ca href=\"http://www.heritagefoodsusa.com\">Heritage Foods USA\u003c/a>, which originated as the online marketing arm for the Slow Food movement. Now a private company, it sells meat from small farmers who are raising and preserving heritage breeds of pigs, turkeys and other animals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I try to support them, because they are trying to do the right thing, by these animal and the small farmers,\" says Canales. \"These guys have no outlet. Either they find a niche market, or they get forced out by Tyson or the big outfits.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/stuwithbelly300.jpg\" alt=\"Stuart trims fat off of a pork belly for pancetta.\" title=\"Stuart trims fat off of a pork belly for pancetta.\" width=\"300\" height=\"364\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6889\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The author trims fat off of a pork belly for pancetta.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While apprenticing at Oliveto, I had a privilege to trim and cure pancetta a few times. It is not terribly hard, as \u003ca href=\"http://blog.ruhlman.com/ruhlmancom/2009/06/home-cured-pancetta.html\">Michael Ruhlman demonstrates\u003c/a> in this post. The slabs of pork are seasoned with salt, curing salt and peppercorns, and then hung in cold storage for a week or so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time it is dried, thin sliced and then served, it is belly, belly good. (Sorry, I couldn't resist.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Oliveto, the true test of its pork obsession comes in February, with the annual Whole Hog dinners. The menu offers nearly every part of the animal, from the brains down to the trotters. Last year's \u003ca href=\"http://www.oliveto.com/wholehog08.pdf%20\">menu\u003c/a>(pdf) featured a wild boar scaloppine alla Milanese, a spaghetti with pork cracklings and a spit-roasted pork belly with Sicilian chestnut honey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/melon-and-coppa500.jpg\" alt=\"A basic summer dish at Oliveto -- cured coppa and melon. \" title=\"A basic summer dish at Oliveto -- cured coppa and melon. \" width=\"500\" height=\"193\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6886\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A basic summer dish at Oliveto - cured coppa and melon.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preparations for these dinners are an all-year affair, since some types of meats - such as prosciutto and coppa - take many months to cure and dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I missed this year's Whole Hog Dinner, but plan to be there in February. After six months of trimming, slicing, browning, simmering and curing pork, I feel a closer connection to this noble animal, along with an awareness of how much more there is to learn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stuart Leavenworth has concluded his apprenticeship at Oliveto, and this is his final post for Bay Area Bites. On Monday, he starts a new job as The Sacramento Bee's editorial page editor. You can contact him at sleavenworth@sacbee.com.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Pork is a constant at Oliveto. The menu revolves around it. On any given day, prep chefs can be seen breaking down a hog into various cuts --shoulder, loin, leg -- and then processing them into porchetta, pancetta, scallopine, sausage or salumi.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1253634920,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":35,"wordCount":1339},"headData":{"title":"Processing the pig: a weekly ritual at Oliveto | KQED","description":"Pork is a constant at Oliveto. The menu revolves around it. On any given day, prep chefs can be seen breaking down a hog into various cuts --shoulder, loin, leg -- and then processing them into porchetta, pancetta, scallopine, sausage or salumi.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Processing the pig: a weekly ritual at Oliveto","datePublished":"2009-09-21T17:16:57.000Z","dateModified":"2009-09-22T15:55:20.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"6883 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=6883","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/21/processing-the-pig-a-weekly-ritual-at-oliveto/","disqusTitle":"Processing the pig: a weekly ritual at Oliveto","path":"/bayareabites/6883/processing-the-pig-a-weekly-ritual-at-oliveto","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/swine500.jpg\" alt=\"Swine diagram\" title=\"Swine diagram\" width=\"500\" height=\"348\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6890\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This swine diagram in the Oliveto back office pretty much sums it up.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next to his desk in the Oliveto back office, Chef Paul Canales has taped a diagram that captures the restaurant's reverence for pork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The diagram shows a hog divided into sections, such as the shoulder and the leg. All of these sections are labeled \"Good,\" except for the belly. It is labeled \"Real Good.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pork is a constant at Oliveto. The menu revolves around it. On any given day, prep chefs can be seen breaking down a hog into various cuts -- shoulder, loin, leg -- and then processing them into porchetta, pancetta, scallopine, sausage or salumi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For an uninitiated guest to the kitchen, it can be startling to see a pig's head simmering in a stock pot or a chef hefting a hand saw on one half of a 200-pound carcass.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/paul-and-kelsey500.jpg\" alt=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales seasons pork cutlets while Sous Chef Kelsey Bergstrom cuts into a pork leg with a hand saw.\" title=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales seasons pork cutlets while Sous Chef Kelsey Bergstrom cuts into a pork leg with a hand saw.\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6887\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oliveto Chef Paul Canales seasons pork cutlets while Sous Chef Kelsey Bergstrom cuts into a pork leg with a hand saw.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet if you want restaurants to be respectful of the meat they serve, extracting every ounce of flavor and using all parts of the animal, then these scenes shouldn't shock you. Many chefs run a far tidier kitchen by relying on industrial meat processors to do their butchery, delivering meat cuts that are shrink-wrapped and ready to cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oliveto's experiments with whole-hog cookery started more than a decade ago, when the restaurant, under owner Bob Klein and former Executive Chef Paul Bertolli, developed a relationship with Paul Willis and Bill Niman, founders of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nimanranch.com/index.aspx%20\">Niman Ranch\u003c/a> meat company.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Willis, a hog farmer from Iowa, met Niman in the mid-1990s, as industrial hog farming was transforming the landscape of the Midwest and North Carolina. Farmers such as Willis were trying to stay in business by marketing the quality and benefits of the pork that was raised without hormones and antibiotics, with the pigs allowed to range freely. That led to a partnership with Niman and the birth of Niman Ranch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/paul-willis-hog-500.jpg\" alt=\"Paul Watson, seen left, heads a network of 500 small farmers who supply pork to Niman Ranch.\" title=\"Paul Watson, seen left, heads a network of 500 small farmers who supply pork to Niman Ranch.\" width=\"500\" height=\"334\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6888\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Paul Watson, seen left, heads a network of 500 small farmers who supply pork to Niman Ranch.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Willis supervises a network of 500 farmers who produce pork for more than 1,200 restaurants, ranging from chains such as Chipotle Mexican Grill to high-end restaurants such as Oliveto. His success has inspired many other farmers, including some here in California, to grow their own pigs and market them directly to restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every Tuesday at Oliveto, a truck pulls up in the garage of the building, delivering a split carcass pig, usually from Willis. For the last several months it has been my job, along with Oliveto butcher Pablo \"Tigre\" Mendoza Gavito, to heft and these split carcasses (100 pounds) into the basement meat locker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/meat-locker500.jpg\" alt=\"meat locker\" title=\"meat locker\" width=\"500\" height=\"370\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6919\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hanging meat from hooks can be dangerous, as former Oliveto Sous Chef Curtis Di Fede demonstrates.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This can be a dangerous job. Pigs are slippery and tricky to hoist. Usually Tigre would lift from the bottom, using a small meat hook to grab hold of the carcass. My job was to grab the hind leg, attach a meat hook to the trotter, and hang the hooked carcass on the meat locker rod while Tigre hefted it from the bottom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time we attempted this together, I inadvertently left my pinkie finger in between the hook and rod. My finger was nearly crushed as the full weight of the carcass came down on the rod. Luckily, I pulled my pinkie out at the last split second.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once the pigs are in the locker, the chefs assemble a game plan for breaking them down and preparing dishes. That plan changes weekly, depending on the whims of the chefs and what dishes they haven't recently prepared.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Technically, you want to use the loins and legs first, since those are most subject to spoilage,\" says Canales, who replaced Bertolli as executive chef in 2004. \"The shoulders will last the longest.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why do the shoulders last longer? As Canales notes, shoulders and other heavily used muscles tend to have high levels of myoglobin, a protein that causes the red color in meat. Birds such as ducks and pigeons have high levels of myoglobin, because they fly such long distances. As a result, ducks and pigeons resist spoilage in a refrigerator longer than chickens do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After a hog is delivered, Tigre tends to get the assignment of breaking down the hog into its component pieces. He also can be regularly seen trimming up the loin for one of the restaurant's prized dishes, the spit-roasted porchetta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/tigre-with-sausage500.jpg\" alt=\" Oliveto butcher Pablo Tigre Mendoza Gavito prepares sausage in the back kitchen.\" title=\" Oliveto butcher Pablo Tigre Mendoza Gavito prepares sausage in the back kitchen.\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6885\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oliveto butcher Pablo \"Tigre\" Mendoza Gavito prepares sausage in the back kitchen.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Porchetta is pork rolled with spices and salt into a log and then set on a rotisserie. As it roasts over hot coals, the fat renders out of the meat and keeps it juicy and savory. Slices of this log are then served with an accompaniment, such as a diavolo sauce made with chili peppers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By contrast, Oliveto generally takes cuts from the leg and turns them into scallopine or salami. Scraps from the leg are ground in a meat grinder and used in a ragu, a pasta sauce. The shoulders, meanwhile, are generally reserved for sausage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you can imagine, all this cutting and trimming results in numerous scraps that some butchers might be tempted to throw away. At Oliveto, all these scraps are further trimmed to separate meat from fat. The meat pieces are cooked down into \u003ca href=\"http://www.sacbee.com/static/weblogs/the_chef_apprentice/2009/05/paul-canales-recipe-for-a-sugo.html/022075.html?mi_rss=The%20Chef%20Apprentice\">sugo\u003c/a>, a heavily reduced pork stock, similar to a demi-glace. The rest might be used for a ciccioli, an intensely rich concoction that is made by cooking down fatty pieces of pork, compressing them and drying them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Outside of the pigs it breaks down, Oliveto also receives special orders of pork, particularly pork bellies for pancetta. These bellies arrive every other week from \u003ca href=\"http://www.heritagefoodsusa.com\">Heritage Foods USA\u003c/a>, which originated as the online marketing arm for the Slow Food movement. Now a private company, it sells meat from small farmers who are raising and preserving heritage breeds of pigs, turkeys and other animals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I try to support them, because they are trying to do the right thing, by these animal and the small farmers,\" says Canales. \"These guys have no outlet. Either they find a niche market, or they get forced out by Tyson or the big outfits.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/stuwithbelly300.jpg\" alt=\"Stuart trims fat off of a pork belly for pancetta.\" title=\"Stuart trims fat off of a pork belly for pancetta.\" width=\"300\" height=\"364\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6889\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The author trims fat off of a pork belly for pancetta.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While apprenticing at Oliveto, I had a privilege to trim and cure pancetta a few times. It is not terribly hard, as \u003ca href=\"http://blog.ruhlman.com/ruhlmancom/2009/06/home-cured-pancetta.html\">Michael Ruhlman demonstrates\u003c/a> in this post. The slabs of pork are seasoned with salt, curing salt and peppercorns, and then hung in cold storage for a week or so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time it is dried, thin sliced and then served, it is belly, belly good. (Sorry, I couldn't resist.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Oliveto, the true test of its pork obsession comes in February, with the annual Whole Hog dinners. The menu offers nearly every part of the animal, from the brains down to the trotters. Last year's \u003ca href=\"http://www.oliveto.com/wholehog08.pdf%20\">menu\u003c/a>(pdf) featured a wild boar scaloppine alla Milanese, a spaghetti with pork cracklings and a spit-roasted pork belly with Sicilian chestnut honey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/melon-and-coppa500.jpg\" alt=\"A basic summer dish at Oliveto -- cured coppa and melon. \" title=\"A basic summer dish at Oliveto -- cured coppa and melon. \" width=\"500\" height=\"193\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6886\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A basic summer dish at Oliveto - cured coppa and melon.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preparations for these dinners are an all-year affair, since some types of meats - such as prosciutto and coppa - take many months to cure and dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I missed this year's Whole Hog Dinner, but plan to be there in February. After six months of trimming, slicing, browning, simmering and curing pork, I feel a closer connection to this noble animal, along with an awareness of how much more there is to learn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stuart Leavenworth has concluded his apprenticeship at Oliveto, and this is his final post for Bay Area Bites. On Monday, he starts a new job as The Sacramento Bee's editorial page editor. You can contact him at sleavenworth@sacbee.com.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/6883/processing-the-pig-a-weekly-ritual-at-oliveto","authors":["5059"],"categories":["bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_947","bayareabites_2238","bayareabites_2717","bayareabites_2726","bayareabites_616","bayareabites_2718"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_6352":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_6352","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"6352","score":null,"sort":[1251296254000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"bauer-slams-oliveto-a-body-blow-or-a-misdirected-punch","title":"Bauer slams Oliveto: A body blow? Or a misdirected punch?","publishDate":1251296254,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/testers500.jpg\" alt=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales directs the nightly testing of dishes prior to service at the restaurant.\" title=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales directs the nightly testing of dishes prior to service at the restaurant.\" width=\"500\" height=\"371\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6361\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oliveto Chef Paul Canales directs the nightly \"testing\" of dishes prior to service at the restaurant. Photo by Carl Costas, Sacramento Bee\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Hollywood actors, some chefs will claim that they don't pay attention to the critics. The reality, of course, is that they do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A good review, in a prominent publication or media outlet, can help launch an upstart restaurant or attract new customers to an old one. A bad one can sink the newcomer or spell trouble for a venerated establishment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oliveto, the Italian restaurant in Oakland where I've been interning since April, has enjoyed its share of published praise. In her latest edition of the \"Food Lover's Pocket Guide\" to San Francisco and the Bay Area, \u003ca href=\"http://www.hayesstreetgrill.com/hsg-bio.html\">food critic Patricia Unterman\u003c/a> writes that Oliveto \"sets the standard for Italian cooking in America.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last month, the restaurant staff was buoyed by a glowing endorsement by Marcella Hazan, an author of several award winning Italian cookbooks. \u003ca href=\"http://www.thedailybeast.com/blogs-and-stories/2009-07-28/fresh-picks-5/3/\">Writing in The Daily Beast, Hazan said\u003c/a> she \"would eat at Oliveto in Oakland every day\" if she lived in the Bay Area. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet those appraisals were quickly overshadowed last week when Michael Bauer, the food critic for the San Francisco Chronicle, published his \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/08/20/DDLD193F3K.DTL&type=food\">first major review of the restaurant since 1996\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a nine-paragraph column, Bauer said that his last two visits to the restaurant were disappointing. He criticized the service, the atmosphere and the food, and knocked the restaurant down from 3 1/2 stars to two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It could be that others have caught up and that Oliveto has slipped,\" wrote Bauer, noting the restaurant's legacy in inspiring other chefs and restaurants across the region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I arrived at Oliveto on Friday, the day after the review appeared, I expected the kitchen to be buzzing about the review. Instead, it seemed just like a normal day -- busy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant's annual tomato dinners were less than a week away, and so chefs and cooks were scurrying about, making preparations for those elaborate suppers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet as the morning wore on, it became clear that the review was the 800-pound gorilla in the room. Nobody wanted to touch it, but it was pretty hard to ignore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/eric-glass500.jpg\" alt=\"Server Eric Schwier puts a shine on one of the workmanlike wine glasses at Oliveto.\" title=\"Server Eric Schwier puts a shine on one of the workmanlike wine glasses at Oliveto.\" width=\"500\" height=\"343\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6360\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Server Eric Schwier puts a shine on one of the \"workmanlike\" wine glasses at Oliveto. Photo by Carl Costas, Sacramento Bee\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One server volunteered that customers were asking about it in the cafe on the morning it appeared. Another made a joke about the \"workmanlike glasses\" he was handling, a reference to one of the swipes in Bauer's review.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Chef Paul Canales arrived in the kitchen, he seemed to be as chipper as normal. But then he spent some time with a business manager looking over past reservation lists. Both were trying to determine which night Bauer might have dined (based on the menu items he ordered) and who was cooking on various stations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think I might have been cooking pasta that night,\" said Canales. \"It might have been me!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To be sure, it wasn't a complete surprise that the Chronicle was preparing a negative review. Bauer was a huge fan of former Oliveto Chef Paul Bertolli, who trained Canales and helped establish the restaurant's reputation. In 1996, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/1996/01/19/DD35715.DTL\">Bauer gave Oliveto four stars for food and 3 1/2 stars overall\u003c/a>, claiming that Bertolli was \"producing the best Italian food in the Bay Area.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2005, however, Bertolli left Oliveto in a fallout with the owners and Canales was promoted to executive chef. As the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2005/09/28/FDGFEES3F41.DTL\">Chronicle reported that year\u003c/a>, Canales had actually been acting chef for some time, as Bertolli grew more interested in starting his own salumi business. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The trouble signs started in January. After eating cheap food in Texas and Oklahoma, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/mbauer/detail?blogid=26&entry_id=34194\">Bauer filed a blog post questioning if Oliveto was overpriced\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few months later, he dropped Oliveto from his \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/top100/\">Top 100 Bay Area Restaurants list\u003c/a>, a choice that \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2009/04/the_chronicles_2009_top_100_wh.php\">baffled at least one other food writer\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In his current review, Bauer clearly was disappointed with the restaurant's appearance and service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you look around the room, you see the workmanlike glasses on the tables, worn and scarred chairs, and a service staff that on my visits seemed too small for the number of seats. The waiters are good but couldn't cover the room; we waited 15 minutes for wine and practically that long before anyone had enough time to check to see if we wanted dessert.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also had little good to say about the food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The treviso radicchio salad with lonza (cured pork tenderloin) was \"sodden.\" The meatballs on one of the pastas were \"mushy,\" as were the sand dabs on another plate, he wrote.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/rabbitpancetta500.jpg\" alt=\"A tepid plate of pancetta-wrapped rabbit cost Oliveto some stars from food critic Michael Bauer.\" title=\"A tepid plate of pancetta-wrapped rabbit cost Oliveto some stars from food critic Michael Bauer.\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6362\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A \"lukewarm\" plate of pancetta-wrapped rabbit cost Oliveto some stars from food critic Michael Bauer. Photo by Carl Costas, Sacramento Bee\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The pancetta-wrapped rabbit was lukewarm, and the braised butter lettuce underneath was cool in some spots and warm in others, arranged on the plate with a loose, red, juicy sauce. The spit-roasted pork loin ($28) is redolent of the farm and the fire, but the sour cherry and black currant compote stripped it of its natural flavor and the firm, freshly milled polenta and salty greens were a disserve to the succulent meat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I can't argue with Bauer about the service and atmospherics. Oliveto's servers are terrifically knowledgeable about food, but sometimes they are so undermanned they must scramble to get plates out to the dining room. That's one reason the restaurant's carpets are frayed, one detail that escaped Bauer's eye.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also don't doubt that Bauer was served some disappointing dishes on his last visit. I just question if those miscues were representative of what other customers experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the last five months, I've heard from dozens of readers, friends and acquaintances who've eaten at Oliveto. All have raved about the food and the service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Any review of Oliveto needs to at least acknowledge the restaurant's innovations, such as its special dinners and use of old-world techniques. After years of eating in the Bay Area, I have yet to find a restaurant that offers Oliveto's variety of handmade pastas. If anything, Canales has improved the restaurant's pasta by working to procure the finest flours and eggs with the richest yolks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's also curious the bulk of Bauer's critique was based on a single visit to Oliveto, and that only one other guest accompanied him. At most big-city newspapers, restaurant reviewers invite at least two or three other people to join them, so they can sample the widest array of dishes. By not doing so, Bauer didn't give his readers a full sense of the Oliveto menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Among some at the restaurant, there's a suspicion that Bauer has a personal bias against Oliveto, and thus didn't invest much energy in reviewing it. \"Ever since Bertolli left, he's had it in for us,\" said one of the cooks. \"There is no way we can win.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet that sentiment is hardly universal. When I brought it up, one long-time server, Molly Surbridge, said it would be a mistake for the chefs and staff to get defensive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some of his criticisms are valid,\" she said. \"Instead of focusing on him, we should use his critique to figure out how to make this a better restaurant, not for him, but for us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I found Molly's comment to be wise beyond her years. It's a reflection of why Oliveto is a special place to work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The owners, chefs and servers take a lot of pride in what they do, but not to the point of avoiding introspection. Bauer's review, while off the mark in many ways, will undoubtedly spur Oliveto to engage in some healthy reflection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, if you run a restaurant, you constantly have to ask yourself: How can I make it better?\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Like Hollywood actors, some chefs will claim that they don't pay attention to the critics. The reality, of course, is that they do.\r\n\r\nA good review, in a prominent publication or media outlet, can help launch an upstart restaurant or attract new customers to an old one. A bad one can sink the newcomer or spell trouble for a venerated establishment.\r\n\r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1251297903,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":38,"wordCount":1334},"headData":{"title":"Bauer slams Oliveto: A body blow? Or a misdirected punch? | KQED","description":"Like Hollywood actors, some chefs will claim that they don't pay attention to the critics. The reality, of course, is that they do.\r\n\r\nA good review, in a prominent publication or media outlet, can help launch an upstart restaurant or attract new customers to an old one. A bad one can sink the newcomer or spell trouble for a venerated establishment.\r\n\r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Bauer slams Oliveto: A body blow? Or a misdirected punch?","datePublished":"2009-08-26T14:17:34.000Z","dateModified":"2009-08-26T14:45:03.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"6352 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=6352","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/08/26/bauer-slams-oliveto-a-body-blow-or-a-misdirected-punch/","disqusTitle":"Bauer slams Oliveto: A body blow? Or a misdirected punch?","path":"/bayareabites/6352/bauer-slams-oliveto-a-body-blow-or-a-misdirected-punch","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/testers500.jpg\" alt=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales directs the nightly testing of dishes prior to service at the restaurant.\" title=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales directs the nightly testing of dishes prior to service at the restaurant.\" width=\"500\" height=\"371\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6361\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Oliveto Chef Paul Canales directs the nightly \"testing\" of dishes prior to service at the restaurant. Photo by Carl Costas, Sacramento Bee\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Hollywood actors, some chefs will claim that they don't pay attention to the critics. The reality, of course, is that they do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A good review, in a prominent publication or media outlet, can help launch an upstart restaurant or attract new customers to an old one. A bad one can sink the newcomer or spell trouble for a venerated establishment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oliveto, the Italian restaurant in Oakland where I've been interning since April, has enjoyed its share of published praise. In her latest edition of the \"Food Lover's Pocket Guide\" to San Francisco and the Bay Area, \u003ca href=\"http://www.hayesstreetgrill.com/hsg-bio.html\">food critic Patricia Unterman\u003c/a> writes that Oliveto \"sets the standard for Italian cooking in America.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last month, the restaurant staff was buoyed by a glowing endorsement by Marcella Hazan, an author of several award winning Italian cookbooks. \u003ca href=\"http://www.thedailybeast.com/blogs-and-stories/2009-07-28/fresh-picks-5/3/\">Writing in The Daily Beast, Hazan said\u003c/a> she \"would eat at Oliveto in Oakland every day\" if she lived in the Bay Area. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet those appraisals were quickly overshadowed last week when Michael Bauer, the food critic for the San Francisco Chronicle, published his \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/08/20/DDLD193F3K.DTL&type=food\">first major review of the restaurant since 1996\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a nine-paragraph column, Bauer said that his last two visits to the restaurant were disappointing. He criticized the service, the atmosphere and the food, and knocked the restaurant down from 3 1/2 stars to two.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It could be that others have caught up and that Oliveto has slipped,\" wrote Bauer, noting the restaurant's legacy in inspiring other chefs and restaurants across the region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I arrived at Oliveto on Friday, the day after the review appeared, I expected the kitchen to be buzzing about the review. Instead, it seemed just like a normal day -- busy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant's annual tomato dinners were less than a week away, and so chefs and cooks were scurrying about, making preparations for those elaborate suppers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet as the morning wore on, it became clear that the review was the 800-pound gorilla in the room. Nobody wanted to touch it, but it was pretty hard to ignore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/eric-glass500.jpg\" alt=\"Server Eric Schwier puts a shine on one of the workmanlike wine glasses at Oliveto.\" title=\"Server Eric Schwier puts a shine on one of the workmanlike wine glasses at Oliveto.\" width=\"500\" height=\"343\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6360\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Server Eric Schwier puts a shine on one of the \"workmanlike\" wine glasses at Oliveto. Photo by Carl Costas, Sacramento Bee\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One server volunteered that customers were asking about it in the cafe on the morning it appeared. Another made a joke about the \"workmanlike glasses\" he was handling, a reference to one of the swipes in Bauer's review.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Chef Paul Canales arrived in the kitchen, he seemed to be as chipper as normal. But then he spent some time with a business manager looking over past reservation lists. Both were trying to determine which night Bauer might have dined (based on the menu items he ordered) and who was cooking on various stations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think I might have been cooking pasta that night,\" said Canales. \"It might have been me!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To be sure, it wasn't a complete surprise that the Chronicle was preparing a negative review. Bauer was a huge fan of former Oliveto Chef Paul Bertolli, who trained Canales and helped establish the restaurant's reputation. In 1996, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/1996/01/19/DD35715.DTL\">Bauer gave Oliveto four stars for food and 3 1/2 stars overall\u003c/a>, claiming that Bertolli was \"producing the best Italian food in the Bay Area.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2005, however, Bertolli left Oliveto in a fallout with the owners and Canales was promoted to executive chef. As the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2005/09/28/FDGFEES3F41.DTL\">Chronicle reported that year\u003c/a>, Canales had actually been acting chef for some time, as Bertolli grew more interested in starting his own salumi business. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The trouble signs started in January. After eating cheap food in Texas and Oklahoma, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/mbauer/detail?blogid=26&entry_id=34194\">Bauer filed a blog post questioning if Oliveto was overpriced\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few months later, he dropped Oliveto from his \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/top100/\">Top 100 Bay Area Restaurants list\u003c/a>, a choice that \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2009/04/the_chronicles_2009_top_100_wh.php\">baffled at least one other food writer\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In his current review, Bauer clearly was disappointed with the restaurant's appearance and service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you look around the room, you see the workmanlike glasses on the tables, worn and scarred chairs, and a service staff that on my visits seemed too small for the number of seats. The waiters are good but couldn't cover the room; we waited 15 minutes for wine and practically that long before anyone had enough time to check to see if we wanted dessert.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He also had little good to say about the food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The treviso radicchio salad with lonza (cured pork tenderloin) was \"sodden.\" The meatballs on one of the pastas were \"mushy,\" as were the sand dabs on another plate, he wrote.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/rabbitpancetta500.jpg\" alt=\"A tepid plate of pancetta-wrapped rabbit cost Oliveto some stars from food critic Michael Bauer.\" title=\"A tepid plate of pancetta-wrapped rabbit cost Oliveto some stars from food critic Michael Bauer.\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-6362\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>A \"lukewarm\" plate of pancetta-wrapped rabbit cost Oliveto some stars from food critic Michael Bauer. Photo by Carl Costas, Sacramento Bee\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The pancetta-wrapped rabbit was lukewarm, and the braised butter lettuce underneath was cool in some spots and warm in others, arranged on the plate with a loose, red, juicy sauce. The spit-roasted pork loin ($28) is redolent of the farm and the fire, but the sour cherry and black currant compote stripped it of its natural flavor and the firm, freshly milled polenta and salty greens were a disserve to the succulent meat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I can't argue with Bauer about the service and atmospherics. Oliveto's servers are terrifically knowledgeable about food, but sometimes they are so undermanned they must scramble to get plates out to the dining room. That's one reason the restaurant's carpets are frayed, one detail that escaped Bauer's eye.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also don't doubt that Bauer was served some disappointing dishes on his last visit. I just question if those miscues were representative of what other customers experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the last five months, I've heard from dozens of readers, friends and acquaintances who've eaten at Oliveto. All have raved about the food and the service.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Any review of Oliveto needs to at least acknowledge the restaurant's innovations, such as its special dinners and use of old-world techniques. After years of eating in the Bay Area, I have yet to find a restaurant that offers Oliveto's variety of handmade pastas. If anything, Canales has improved the restaurant's pasta by working to procure the finest flours and eggs with the richest yolks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's also curious the bulk of Bauer's critique was based on a single visit to Oliveto, and that only one other guest accompanied him. At most big-city newspapers, restaurant reviewers invite at least two or three other people to join them, so they can sample the widest array of dishes. By not doing so, Bauer didn't give his readers a full sense of the Oliveto menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Among some at the restaurant, there's a suspicion that Bauer has a personal bias against Oliveto, and thus didn't invest much energy in reviewing it. \"Ever since Bertolli left, he's had it in for us,\" said one of the cooks. \"There is no way we can win.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet that sentiment is hardly universal. When I brought it up, one long-time server, Molly Surbridge, said it would be a mistake for the chefs and staff to get defensive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some of his criticisms are valid,\" she said. \"Instead of focusing on him, we should use his critique to figure out how to make this a better restaurant, not for him, but for us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I found Molly's comment to be wise beyond her years. It's a reflection of why Oliveto is a special place to work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The owners, chefs and servers take a lot of pride in what they do, but not to the point of avoiding introspection. Bauer's review, while off the mark in many ways, will undoubtedly spur Oliveto to engage in some healthy reflection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, if you run a restaurant, you constantly have to ask yourself: How can I make it better?\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/6352/bauer-slams-oliveto-a-body-blow-or-a-misdirected-punch","authors":["5059"],"categories":["bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10"],"tags":["bayareabites_2024","bayareabites_2238"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_5938":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_5938","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"5938","score":null,"sort":[1250181421000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"chateaus-lentil-soup-a-soup-rich-in-food-cliches","title":"Chateau's Lentil Soup: A soup rich in food clichés","publishDate":1250181421,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/briansoup1.jpg\" alt=\"Brian Murphy, a sous chef at Oliveto, mixes up lentils for one of his signature soups.\" title=\"Brian Murphy, a sous chef at Oliveto, mixes up lentils for one of his signature soups.\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5944\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Brian Murphy, a sous chef at Oliveto, mixes up lentils for one of his signature soups\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \u003ca href=\"http://foodblogalliance.com/2009/06/better-food-writing-adjectives.php\">recent posting on the Food Blog Alliance\u003c/a> site urged writers not to use overused adjectives such as \"nice,\" \"wonderful\" or \"delicious\" when writing about food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since I tend to dislike edicts even more than clichés, let me say this about the lentil soup recipe I am about to offer:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is \u003cstrong>wonderful\u003c/strong>. It would be \u003cstrong>nice\u003c/strong> for you to try it. And if you did, you'd find this soup to be \u003cstrong>delicious\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Okay, maybe I could work harder in describing why a mere lentil soup deserves the forbidden D-word.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But believe me, it does. There is something about slow cooking of dried porcini mushrooms, wine and lentils that leads to magic. If you properly execute this dish, throwing in generous amounts of finely diced vegetables and finely chopped herbs, you will have a soup that is as complex and brooding as Caravaggio painting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some might say that lentil soup is an odd thing to prepare in the summer. That would be true in Sacramento (where I live). But in the Bay Area, where it is often cold and foggy, a lentil soup is just the thing to be enjoying on a back patio. I learned this basic recipe at Oliveto, one of many perks of working as a galley slave (intern) there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Credit for this particular combination goes to Brian Murphy, an Oliveto sous chef who consistently turns out the kitchen's finest soups. Brian's nickname is \"Chateau,\" as in \"Chateau Brian.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So here's to you, Chateau. Salut!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/lentil-soup1.jpg\" alt=\"Lentil soup with porcini and herbs. Why wait until fall to enjoy?\" title=\"Lentil soup with porcini and herbs. Why wait until fall to enjoy?\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5945\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Lentil soup with porcini and herbs. Why wait until fall to enjoy?\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chateau's lentil soup\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 8-10\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 pounds green lentils\u003cbr>\n2 red onions, medium dice\u003cbr>\n1 large carrot, medium dice\u003cbr>\n2 stocks celery, medium dice\u003cbr>\n1 head of garlic, clove peeled and finely sliced\u003cbr>\n1/2 bunch rosemary, finely chopped\u003cbr>\n1/2 bunch sage, finely chopped\u003cbr>\n1/2 tablespoon finely ground coriander seed\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup dried porcini mushrooms, soaked in dry red wine\u003cbr>\nUp to one gallon of water\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup tomato paste\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup olive oil\u003cbr>\nSea salt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Equipment needed:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHeavy stew pot or soup pot; hand blender or regular blender; sharp knives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Dice onions, celery and carrot, and finely slice garlic cloves. \u003ca href=\"http://videos.sacbee.com/vmix_hosted_apps/p/media?id=5197465&item_index=4&genre_id=2465&sort=NULL\">Video: Basic instructions on peeling and dicing onion\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Soak dried porcini in wine, and have a glass for yourself. Grind the coriander. Open the can of the finest tomato paste you can afford.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Chop the heck out of the herbs. Get them really fine, but watch your fingers. Don't even think about using a food processor for this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. When onions, carrots, celery, garlic and herbs are ready, heat up your soup pot and pour in enough oil to cover the bottom of the pot. Throw in your veggies and herbs. Salt rigorously and cook under medium heat until vegetables are soft.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. As veggies are cooking, pull dried porcini out of your wine and finely chop. Filter sediments out of wine and reserve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. When veggies are soft, add tomato paste to the pot, stir it around for a minute and then add reserved wine. Stir, and add half of your ground coriander.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Add lentils to pot and fill with the gallon of water. Add any wine from the bottle you haven't already enjoyed (about 1/2 bottle). Raise heat until lentils boil and then reduce heat to a generous simmer. Cook until lentils are tender and done.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. Blend soup rigorously with a hand blender. If too thin, cook to desired thickness. If too thick, add water, judiciously. Add salt to taste. Add more coriander, if desired. When perfect, ladle into soup bowls and serve with a drizzle of olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(\u003cstrong>Note\u003c/strong>: Aftering ladling soup into soup bowls, Oliveto drizzles each with \"Olio santa\" -- olive oil cooked briefly with rosemary and red pepper flakes. Give it a try.)\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Some might say that lentil soup is an odd thing to prepare in the summer. That would be true in Sacramento (where I live). But in the Bay Area, where it is often cold and foggy, a lentil soup is just the thing to be enjoying on a back patio. I learned this basic recipe at Oliveto, one of many perks of working as a galley slave (intern).\r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1250181662,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":27,"wordCount":675},"headData":{"title":"Chateau's Lentil Soup: A soup rich in food clichés | KQED","description":"Some might say that lentil soup is an odd thing to prepare in the summer. That would be true in Sacramento (where I live). But in the Bay Area, where it is often cold and foggy, a lentil soup is just the thing to be enjoying on a back patio. I learned this basic recipe at Oliveto, one of many perks of working as a galley slave (intern).\r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Chateau's Lentil Soup: A soup rich in food clichés","datePublished":"2009-08-13T16:37:01.000Z","dateModified":"2009-08-13T16:41:02.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"5938 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=5938","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/08/13/chateaus-lentil-soup-a-soup-rich-in-food-cliches/","disqusTitle":"Chateau's Lentil Soup: A soup rich in food clichés","path":"/bayareabites/5938/chateaus-lentil-soup-a-soup-rich-in-food-cliches","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/briansoup1.jpg\" alt=\"Brian Murphy, a sous chef at Oliveto, mixes up lentils for one of his signature soups.\" title=\"Brian Murphy, a sous chef at Oliveto, mixes up lentils for one of his signature soups.\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5944\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Brian Murphy, a sous chef at Oliveto, mixes up lentils for one of his signature soups\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A \u003ca href=\"http://foodblogalliance.com/2009/06/better-food-writing-adjectives.php\">recent posting on the Food Blog Alliance\u003c/a> site urged writers not to use overused adjectives such as \"nice,\" \"wonderful\" or \"delicious\" when writing about food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since I tend to dislike edicts even more than clichés, let me say this about the lentil soup recipe I am about to offer:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is \u003cstrong>wonderful\u003c/strong>. It would be \u003cstrong>nice\u003c/strong> for you to try it. And if you did, you'd find this soup to be \u003cstrong>delicious\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Okay, maybe I could work harder in describing why a mere lentil soup deserves the forbidden D-word.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But believe me, it does. There is something about slow cooking of dried porcini mushrooms, wine and lentils that leads to magic. If you properly execute this dish, throwing in generous amounts of finely diced vegetables and finely chopped herbs, you will have a soup that is as complex and brooding as Caravaggio painting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some might say that lentil soup is an odd thing to prepare in the summer. That would be true in Sacramento (where I live). But in the Bay Area, where it is often cold and foggy, a lentil soup is just the thing to be enjoying on a back patio. I learned this basic recipe at Oliveto, one of many perks of working as a galley slave (intern) there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Credit for this particular combination goes to Brian Murphy, an Oliveto sous chef who consistently turns out the kitchen's finest soups. Brian's nickname is \"Chateau,\" as in \"Chateau Brian.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So here's to you, Chateau. Salut!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/08/lentil-soup1.jpg\" alt=\"Lentil soup with porcini and herbs. Why wait until fall to enjoy?\" title=\"Lentil soup with porcini and herbs. Why wait until fall to enjoy?\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5945\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Lentil soup with porcini and herbs. Why wait until fall to enjoy?\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chateau's lentil soup\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 8-10\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 pounds green lentils\u003cbr>\n2 red onions, medium dice\u003cbr>\n1 large carrot, medium dice\u003cbr>\n2 stocks celery, medium dice\u003cbr>\n1 head of garlic, clove peeled and finely sliced\u003cbr>\n1/2 bunch rosemary, finely chopped\u003cbr>\n1/2 bunch sage, finely chopped\u003cbr>\n1/2 tablespoon finely ground coriander seed\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup dried porcini mushrooms, soaked in dry red wine\u003cbr>\nUp to one gallon of water\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup tomato paste\u003cbr>\n1/3 cup olive oil\u003cbr>\nSea salt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Equipment needed:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHeavy stew pot or soup pot; hand blender or regular blender; sharp knives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Dice onions, celery and carrot, and finely slice garlic cloves. \u003ca href=\"http://videos.sacbee.com/vmix_hosted_apps/p/media?id=5197465&item_index=4&genre_id=2465&sort=NULL\">Video: Basic instructions on peeling and dicing onion\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Soak dried porcini in wine, and have a glass for yourself. Grind the coriander. Open the can of the finest tomato paste you can afford.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Chop the heck out of the herbs. Get them really fine, but watch your fingers. Don't even think about using a food processor for this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. When onions, carrots, celery, garlic and herbs are ready, heat up your soup pot and pour in enough oil to cover the bottom of the pot. Throw in your veggies and herbs. Salt rigorously and cook under medium heat until vegetables are soft.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. As veggies are cooking, pull dried porcini out of your wine and finely chop. Filter sediments out of wine and reserve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. When veggies are soft, add tomato paste to the pot, stir it around for a minute and then add reserved wine. Stir, and add half of your ground coriander.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Add lentils to pot and fill with the gallon of water. Add any wine from the bottle you haven't already enjoyed (about 1/2 bottle). Raise heat until lentils boil and then reduce heat to a generous simmer. Cook until lentils are tender and done.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. Blend soup rigorously with a hand blender. If too thin, cook to desired thickness. If too thick, add water, judiciously. Add salt to taste. Add more coriander, if desired. When perfect, ladle into soup bowls and serve with a drizzle of olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(\u003cstrong>Note\u003c/strong>: Aftering ladling soup into soup bowls, Oliveto drizzles each with \"Olio santa\" -- olive oil cooked briefly with rosemary and red pepper flakes. Give it a try.)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/5938/chateaus-lentil-soup-a-soup-rich-in-food-cliches","authors":["5059"],"categories":["bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_1687","bayareabites_2238","bayareabites_439"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_5213":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_5213","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"5213","score":null,"sort":[1247506143000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"deceptively-delectable-tonnato-with-summer-vegetables","title":"Deceptively delectable: Tonnato with summer vegetables","publishDate":1247506143,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Sometimes it's best not to tell your dinner guests what you are about to serve them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes you should just watch their eyes light up as they try that first bite, and then reveal what you've prepared.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is one of those dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Tonnato\u003c/em>, otherwise known as tuna sauce, is a classic summer dish from the Piedmont of Italy, the northwestern part of the boot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>Piemontese\u003c/em> have been making tuna sauces for centuries. Sophisticated food lovers flock to the Piedmont every year, partly to try distinct regional dishes such as \u003cem>vitello tonnato\u003c/em> (veal with tuna sauce).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet if you were to tell your dinner guests that you were serving whipped tuna and anchovies as part of an appetizer, some of them might be tempted to say, \"Can we just move onto the entree?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although there are endless variations on \u003cem>tonnato\u003c/em>, every recipe I've seen includes tuna, anchovies, capers, olive oil and some type of acid, either lemon juice and vinegar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Oliveto, the restaurant where I work in Oakland, Chef Paul Canales makes a silky smooth \u003cem>tonnato\u003c/em> by blending the basic ingredients with trickles of cream and olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/oliveto-tonnato.jpg\" alt=\"Tonnato with sugar snap peas and cauliflower served at Oliveto\" title=\"Tonnato with sugar snap peas and cauliflower served at Oliveto\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5215\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At a recent dinner, we served it with sugar snap peas, cauliflower and other vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are other interpretations. Vintage recipes call for whipped hard-boiled eggs in a \u003cem>tonnato\u003c/em>, whereas some modern recipes include mayonnaise (homemade only, please). Jacques Pepin adds a little Dijon mustard to \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/w/jpfastfood/recipes7.html\">his tonnato\u003c/a>, a French corruption that would likely spark riots in Italy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whatever the combination, your goal is to create a glistening sauce that is rich with the flavor of tuna, seasoned by background notes of capers and anchovy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/stus-tonnato.jpg\" alt=\"My version of tonnato, served with steamed carrots and homegrown squash, green beans and tomatoes\" title=\"My version of tonnato, served with steamed carrots and homegrown squash, green beans and tomatoes\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5216\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My version has a more rustic texture than what is served at Oliveto, but it is similar in taste and execution. You can see how I served the sauce with some vegetables from my garden, including squash, green beans and tomato.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Feel free to put your own twist on this dish and accompany it with a variety of vegetables or meats, such as chicken or turkey. But try not to skimp on the basic ingredients. High-quality tuna (or canned tuna), anchovies, capers and olive oil are essential.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dijon mustard? Only if you want to trigger a riot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tonnato with Summer Vegetables\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 6-8 appetizer-size portions\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n12 ounces of fresh ahi tuna (or canned tuna)\u003cbr>\n6 anchovy fillets, rinsed and dried\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup olive oil or more\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup cream or an equal amount of milk and unsalted butter at room temperature\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons capers\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon lemon juice\u003cbr>\nVegetables of your choice\u003cbr>\nSalt and pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Cut up and cook your vegetables, either by steaming or blanching. Try to include some that remain crunchy, like string beans or carrots and cook them in separate batches until just tender. Plunge in an ice bath and drain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. If using fresh tuna, add oil and tuna steaks to a skillet and heat until just barely bubbling. Maintain that gentle heat, turning once or twice until tuna is just cooked through. Do not overcook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Add tuna and oil (or canned tuna) to blender or food processor. Add other ingredients, except for vegetables, and blend until smooth. Add additional cream or milk if mixture is too thick. \u003cem>[edited for clarity]\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Your final sauce should be smooth enough to barely pour, without being runny. If still too thick, add more olive oil. (Go on. Just add it. It's good for you.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. After checking for seasoning, pour or spoon your \u003cem>tonnato\u003c/em> onto a plate, arrange your vegetables in an artistic fashion and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Tonatto\u003c/em> can be made in advance and refrigerated for a day or two. The flavors will meld and enrich the sauce. Bring to room temperature and rewhip before serving.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Sometimes it's best not to tell your dinner guests what you are about to serve them.\r\n\r\nSometimes you should just watch their eyes light up as they try that first bite, and then reveal what you've prepared.\r\n\r\nThis is one of those dishes.\r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1248447746,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":28,"wordCount":639},"headData":{"title":"Deceptively delectable: Tonnato with summer vegetables | KQED","description":"Sometimes it's best not to tell your dinner guests what you are about to serve them.\r\n\r\nSometimes you should just watch their eyes light up as they try that first bite, and then reveal what you've prepared.\r\n\r\nThis is one of those dishes.\r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Deceptively delectable: Tonnato with summer vegetables","datePublished":"2009-07-13T17:29:03.000Z","dateModified":"2009-07-24T15:02:26.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"5213 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=5213","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/07/13/deceptively-delectable-tonnato-with-summer-vegetables/","disqusTitle":"Deceptively delectable: Tonnato with summer vegetables","path":"/bayareabites/5213/deceptively-delectable-tonnato-with-summer-vegetables","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Sometimes it's best not to tell your dinner guests what you are about to serve them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes you should just watch their eyes light up as they try that first bite, and then reveal what you've prepared.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is one of those dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Tonnato\u003c/em>, otherwise known as tuna sauce, is a classic summer dish from the Piedmont of Italy, the northwestern part of the boot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>Piemontese\u003c/em> have been making tuna sauces for centuries. Sophisticated food lovers flock to the Piedmont every year, partly to try distinct regional dishes such as \u003cem>vitello tonnato\u003c/em> (veal with tuna sauce).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet if you were to tell your dinner guests that you were serving whipped tuna and anchovies as part of an appetizer, some of them might be tempted to say, \"Can we just move onto the entree?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although there are endless variations on \u003cem>tonnato\u003c/em>, every recipe I've seen includes tuna, anchovies, capers, olive oil and some type of acid, either lemon juice and vinegar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Oliveto, the restaurant where I work in Oakland, Chef Paul Canales makes a silky smooth \u003cem>tonnato\u003c/em> by blending the basic ingredients with trickles of cream and olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/oliveto-tonnato.jpg\" alt=\"Tonnato with sugar snap peas and cauliflower served at Oliveto\" title=\"Tonnato with sugar snap peas and cauliflower served at Oliveto\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5215\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At a recent dinner, we served it with sugar snap peas, cauliflower and other vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are other interpretations. Vintage recipes call for whipped hard-boiled eggs in a \u003cem>tonnato\u003c/em>, whereas some modern recipes include mayonnaise (homemade only, please). Jacques Pepin adds a little Dijon mustard to \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/w/jpfastfood/recipes7.html\">his tonnato\u003c/a>, a French corruption that would likely spark riots in Italy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whatever the combination, your goal is to create a glistening sauce that is rich with the flavor of tuna, seasoned by background notes of capers and anchovy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/07/stus-tonnato.jpg\" alt=\"My version of tonnato, served with steamed carrots and homegrown squash, green beans and tomatoes\" title=\"My version of tonnato, served with steamed carrots and homegrown squash, green beans and tomatoes\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-5216\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My version has a more rustic texture than what is served at Oliveto, but it is similar in taste and execution. You can see how I served the sauce with some vegetables from my garden, including squash, green beans and tomato.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Feel free to put your own twist on this dish and accompany it with a variety of vegetables or meats, such as chicken or turkey. But try not to skimp on the basic ingredients. High-quality tuna (or canned tuna), anchovies, capers and olive oil are essential.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dijon mustard? Only if you want to trigger a riot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tonnato with Summer Vegetables\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 6-8 appetizer-size portions\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n12 ounces of fresh ahi tuna (or canned tuna)\u003cbr>\n6 anchovy fillets, rinsed and dried\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup olive oil or more\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup cream or an equal amount of milk and unsalted butter at room temperature\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons capers\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon lemon juice\u003cbr>\nVegetables of your choice\u003cbr>\nSalt and pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Cut up and cook your vegetables, either by steaming or blanching. Try to include some that remain crunchy, like string beans or carrots and cook them in separate batches until just tender. Plunge in an ice bath and drain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. If using fresh tuna, add oil and tuna steaks to a skillet and heat until just barely bubbling. Maintain that gentle heat, turning once or twice until tuna is just cooked through. Do not overcook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Add tuna and oil (or canned tuna) to blender or food processor. Add other ingredients, except for vegetables, and blend until smooth. Add additional cream or milk if mixture is too thick. \u003cem>[edited for clarity]\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Your final sauce should be smooth enough to barely pour, without being runny. If still too thick, add more olive oil. (Go on. Just add it. It's good for you.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. After checking for seasoning, pour or spoon your \u003cem>tonnato\u003c/em> onto a plate, arrange your vegetables in an artistic fashion and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Tonatto\u003c/em> can be made in advance and refrigerated for a day or two. The flavors will meld and enrich the sauce. Bring to room temperature and rewhip before serving.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/5213/deceptively-delectable-tonnato-with-summer-vegetables","authors":["5059"],"categories":["bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_766","bayareabites_242","bayareabites_2238","bayareabites_218","bayareabites_2382"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_4652":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_4652","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"4652","score":null,"sort":[1245509214000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-to-make-your-ragu-sing-like-pavarotti","title":"How to make your ragu sing like Pavarotti","publishDate":1245509214,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/pasta-ragu.jpg\" alt=\"mostaccioli with pork shoulder ragu\" title=\"mostaccioli with pork shoulder ragu\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4660\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mostaccioli with pork shoulder ragu\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been making meat sauces for years, but only now -- after two months as an apprentice at Oliveto -- have I learned some of the secrets behind a superlative ragu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A ragu is a basic meat sauce for pasta. The first authentic version I tried was years ago, in Emilia-Romagna, the region of Italy that invented the classic Bolognese sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That first ragu was bold and brooding -- much like a Pavarotti opera. The sauce was entangled in a nest of perfectly cooked tagliatelle, with the flavor infused into the noodle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Numerous cookbooks offer suggestions on making a Bolognese sauce and other forms of ragu. Yet nearly all of these recipes, in my opinion, are flawed. Most suggest cooking a mixture of diced onion, carrots and celery before adding your meat to brown it. The sauce that results tends to be lifeless or, even worse, infused with chunks of burnt vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/ragu-veg.jpg\" alt=\"Vegetables sweating on top of meat as the meat brown\" title=\"Vegetables sweating on top of meat as the meat brown\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4661\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vegetables sweating on top of meat as the meat brown\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Oliveto, the chefs have reversed the sequence. First they brown the meat and then allow the vegetables to steam, or \"sweat,\" on top of the meat. This process produces a dark layer of caramelized meat solids at the bottom of the pan -- a foundation of flavor. This foundation, or \"fond\" as the chefs call it, is then deglazed by the natural juices of the vegetables when added on top. This is allowed to cook down so the fond is rebuilt and deglazed two or three times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paul Bertolli, the former head chef at Oliveto, describes the technique in his 2003 book, \"Cooking By Hand.\" Bertolli's successor, Paul Canales, who had a role in developing this technique, has continued to refine and perfect it since becoming executive chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooking a ragu in this manner is not difficult, but it cannot be whipped out in an hour or two. A ragu is truly slow food -- time-tested and refined by Italian grandmothers over many centuries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/ragu-cooking.jpg\" alt=\"Ragu ready for a long simmer, after broth and tomato paste have been added\" title=\"Ragu ready for a long simmer, after broth and tomato paste have been added\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4663\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ragu ready for a long simmer, after broth and tomato paste have been added\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ragu for pasta\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> 8-10 servings of sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 pounds ground meat (Beef, pork or equal amounts of both. For beef, try ground chuck or get adventurous with ground hanger steak, beef cheeks, etc. For the pig, try ground pork shoulder.)\u003cbr>\n4 medium yellow onions\u003cbr>\n5 stalks celery\u003cbr>\n5 carrots\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh oregano\u003cbr>\n6 cups dark chicken or veal stock\u003cbr>\n½ cup white wine\u003cbr>\n½ cup high-quality tomato paste\u003cbr>\n1 cup cream (optional)\u003cbr>\nSalt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Dice the onions, celery and carrots into a mirepoix -- cubes smaller than 1/4 inch in size. As you are dicing the vegetables and mincing the fresh herbs, start cooking your meat. Use a heavy bottomed Dutch oven or stew pot. This is essential. The bottom of the pan has to be thick and heavy enough to brown the meat, without scorching it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Use high heat to start your browning process. But keep an eye on it, and adjust the flame accordingly. It’s okay for the meat to stick and brown, but you don't want it to blacken or burn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. After you have built an even layer of fond on the bottom, toss your vegetables on top of the meat. Leave them there for at least 15 minutes, allowing them to release their juices to the bottom of the pan. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Give your meat and vegetable a rigorous stir with a wooden spoon, and scrape up the fond layer that has now been deglazed by the vegetables. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Turn up heat slightly, and allow this to cook down and brown again, then add a shot of wine -- no more than a cup. Stir and scrape. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Allow this to cook down again. When browned, add a cup of stock. Repeat the process and add your tomato paste, diluted with a half cup of stock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Watch your ragu carefully at this point. The addition of tomato paste could lead to scorching. Keep the heat up, but stir it regularly as the fond starts to reform. When it is nice and brown, but not scorched, add two or three cups of stock -- enough to make it slightly more soupy than you'd want for a sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. At this point, your ragu should have a lovely, brownish-red color. Bring it to a boil and then turn down to a simmer. Allow it to simmer for two to four hours, stirring occasionally and adding more stock, if necessary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>9. Before serving, you have the option of adding cream -- as much or as little as you want. Too much cream will dilute the intensity of the sauce, so be judicious at first.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>10. You can take this basic sauce in many different directions. Add minced porcini mushrooms early in the cooking for an earthier flavor, or cinnamon or nutmeg to give it a spicy edge. Use different combinations of fresh herbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>11. The final step, of course, is marrying the ragu with the pasta. Don't just ladle it on top. Cook your pasta just short of al dente, then mix it thoroughly in a skillet with an appropriate amount of sauce and then serve it immediately. Sprinkle some Parmesan cheese on top, and you will be ready to sing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/ragu400.jpg\" alt=\"ragu\" title=\"ragu\" width=\"400\" height=\"297\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4665\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This is what ragu should look like when finished\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"I've been making meat sauces for years, but only now -- after two months as an apprentice at Oliveto -- have I learned some of the secrets behind a superlative ragu.\r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1245509312,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":28,"wordCount":911},"headData":{"title":"How to make your ragu sing like Pavarotti | KQED","description":"I've been making meat sauces for years, but only now -- after two months as an apprentice at Oliveto -- have I learned some of the secrets behind a superlative ragu.\r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"How to make your ragu sing like Pavarotti","datePublished":"2009-06-20T14:46:54.000Z","dateModified":"2009-06-20T14:48:32.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"4652 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=4652","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/06/20/how-to-make-your-ragu-sing-like-pavarotti/","disqusTitle":"How to make your ragu sing like Pavarotti","path":"/bayareabites/4652/how-to-make-your-ragu-sing-like-pavarotti","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/pasta-ragu.jpg\" alt=\"mostaccioli with pork shoulder ragu\" title=\"mostaccioli with pork shoulder ragu\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4660\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mostaccioli with pork shoulder ragu\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been making meat sauces for years, but only now -- after two months as an apprentice at Oliveto -- have I learned some of the secrets behind a superlative ragu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A ragu is a basic meat sauce for pasta. The first authentic version I tried was years ago, in Emilia-Romagna, the region of Italy that invented the classic Bolognese sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That first ragu was bold and brooding -- much like a Pavarotti opera. The sauce was entangled in a nest of perfectly cooked tagliatelle, with the flavor infused into the noodle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Numerous cookbooks offer suggestions on making a Bolognese sauce and other forms of ragu. Yet nearly all of these recipes, in my opinion, are flawed. Most suggest cooking a mixture of diced onion, carrots and celery before adding your meat to brown it. The sauce that results tends to be lifeless or, even worse, infused with chunks of burnt vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/ragu-veg.jpg\" alt=\"Vegetables sweating on top of meat as the meat brown\" title=\"Vegetables sweating on top of meat as the meat brown\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4661\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Vegetables sweating on top of meat as the meat brown\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Oliveto, the chefs have reversed the sequence. First they brown the meat and then allow the vegetables to steam, or \"sweat,\" on top of the meat. This process produces a dark layer of caramelized meat solids at the bottom of the pan -- a foundation of flavor. This foundation, or \"fond\" as the chefs call it, is then deglazed by the natural juices of the vegetables when added on top. This is allowed to cook down so the fond is rebuilt and deglazed two or three times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paul Bertolli, the former head chef at Oliveto, describes the technique in his 2003 book, \"Cooking By Hand.\" Bertolli's successor, Paul Canales, who had a role in developing this technique, has continued to refine and perfect it since becoming executive chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooking a ragu in this manner is not difficult, but it cannot be whipped out in an hour or two. A ragu is truly slow food -- time-tested and refined by Italian grandmothers over many centuries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/ragu-cooking.jpg\" alt=\"Ragu ready for a long simmer, after broth and tomato paste have been added\" title=\"Ragu ready for a long simmer, after broth and tomato paste have been added\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4663\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ragu ready for a long simmer, after broth and tomato paste have been added\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ragu for pasta\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> 8-10 servings of sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 pounds ground meat (Beef, pork or equal amounts of both. For beef, try ground chuck or get adventurous with ground hanger steak, beef cheeks, etc. For the pig, try ground pork shoulder.)\u003cbr>\n4 medium yellow onions\u003cbr>\n5 stalks celery\u003cbr>\n5 carrots\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh oregano\u003cbr>\n6 cups dark chicken or veal stock\u003cbr>\n½ cup white wine\u003cbr>\n½ cup high-quality tomato paste\u003cbr>\n1 cup cream (optional)\u003cbr>\nSalt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Dice the onions, celery and carrots into a mirepoix -- cubes smaller than 1/4 inch in size. As you are dicing the vegetables and mincing the fresh herbs, start cooking your meat. Use a heavy bottomed Dutch oven or stew pot. This is essential. The bottom of the pan has to be thick and heavy enough to brown the meat, without scorching it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Use high heat to start your browning process. But keep an eye on it, and adjust the flame accordingly. It’s okay for the meat to stick and brown, but you don't want it to blacken or burn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. After you have built an even layer of fond on the bottom, toss your vegetables on top of the meat. Leave them there for at least 15 minutes, allowing them to release their juices to the bottom of the pan. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Give your meat and vegetable a rigorous stir with a wooden spoon, and scrape up the fond layer that has now been deglazed by the vegetables. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Turn up heat slightly, and allow this to cook down and brown again, then add a shot of wine -- no more than a cup. Stir and scrape. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Allow this to cook down again. When browned, add a cup of stock. Repeat the process and add your tomato paste, diluted with a half cup of stock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7. Watch your ragu carefully at this point. The addition of tomato paste could lead to scorching. Keep the heat up, but stir it regularly as the fond starts to reform. When it is nice and brown, but not scorched, add two or three cups of stock -- enough to make it slightly more soupy than you'd want for a sauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8. At this point, your ragu should have a lovely, brownish-red color. Bring it to a boil and then turn down to a simmer. Allow it to simmer for two to four hours, stirring occasionally and adding more stock, if necessary. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>9. Before serving, you have the option of adding cream -- as much or as little as you want. Too much cream will dilute the intensity of the sauce, so be judicious at first.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>10. You can take this basic sauce in many different directions. Add minced porcini mushrooms early in the cooking for an earthier flavor, or cinnamon or nutmeg to give it a spicy edge. Use different combinations of fresh herbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>11. The final step, of course, is marrying the ragu with the pasta. Don't just ladle it on top. Cook your pasta just short of al dente, then mix it thoroughly in a skillet with an appropriate amount of sauce and then serve it immediately. Sprinkle some Parmesan cheese on top, and you will be ready to sing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/ragu400.jpg\" alt=\"ragu\" title=\"ragu\" width=\"400\" height=\"297\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-4665\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This is what ragu should look like when finished\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/4652/how-to-make-your-ragu-sing-like-pavarotti","authors":["5059"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_64","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_2301","bayareabites_725","bayareabites_2238","bayareabites_755","bayareabites_2302","bayareabites_2239","bayareabites_2299"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_4252":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_4252","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"4252","score":null,"sort":[1244300400000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-curtain-goes-up-on-an-oliveto-apprenticeship","title":"The curtain goes up on an Oliveto apprenticeship","publishDate":1244300400,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_4264\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/canales-intern-hatten300.jpg\" alt=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales (left) cutting swordfish belly for a crudo. Watching him is intern Nick Hatten. Photo by Stuart Leavenworth\" title=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales (left) cutting swordfish belly for a crudo. Watching him is intern Nick Hatten.\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-4264\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oliveto Chef Paul Canales (left) cutting swordfish belly for a crudo. Watching him is intern Nick Hatten. Photo by Stuart Leavenworth \u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It's 4 p.m. on a typical afternoon at \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/2009/04/16/oliveto-cafe-restaurant-restaurant-info/\">Oliveto\u003c/a>, and chefs and interns are hurriedly chopping vegetables, stirring pots, de-boning fish and preparing for that night's dinner service, which starts in 90 minutes.\u003cbr>\nService people are rushing through the kitchen, carrying glassware or trays of olives. Dishwashers are trying to return saucepans to overhead hooks, without dropping one on someone's head.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a frenetic dance that occurs daily at the Oakland restaurant, and to add to the frenzy, it comes with a soundtrack. Many afternoons, Chef Paul Canales blasts acid jazz from the boom box. Nothing like some mind-bending music to sharpen your focus. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the last two months, I've been part of this dinner troupe, as a stagehand -- a chef apprentice. Starting in April, I took a leave from my job as an editorial writer and columnist for \u003ca href=\"http://www.sacbee.com/\">The Sacramento Bee\u003c/a> to intern at \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/2009/04/16/oliveto-cafe-restaurant-restaurant-info/\">Oliveto\u003c/a>, an Italian restaurant in Rockridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's been a humbling transition. Until April, I worked in a cushy office and shadowed the power players in California's capitol. Now I'm on my feet all day in a hot, windowless kitchen, taking orders from young sous chefs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet in the realm of unpaid sabbaticals, this one can't be beat. Anyone with an interest in food and cooking needs to work in a restaurant, particularly one like Oliveto. Concepts that once seemed so exotic and unattainable -- curing salami, turning out trays of handmade ravioli -- now seem within my grasp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In recent weeks, I've filleted fresh mackerel, prepared soft shell crabs, cut up and cured pork belly for pancetta and braised porcini mushrooms for cannelloni, which I later rolled by hand. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've also improved my knife skills. Dicing dozens of onions and carrots, day after day, helps in that regard.\u003cbr>\nThat said, my initial performance was far from stellar. In one of his first assignments -- a test, perhaps? -- Chef Canales asked me to \"turn\" a potato. This involved peeling a small spud with a sharp paring knife, turning the potato with my left hand.\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_4275\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/stu-leavenworth300.jpg\" alt=\"Stuart Leavenworth, paring a potato, this time without bloodshed. Photo by Carl Costas, Sacramento Bee\" title=\"Stuart Leavenworth, paring a potato, this time without bloodshed.\" width=\"300\" height=\"429\" class=\"size-full wp-image-4275\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stuart Leavenworth, paring a potato, this time without bloodshed. Photo by Carl Costas, Sacramento Bee\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within a few minutes, I had managed to insert the knife tip into my left thumb. Blood was running out. As I moved to the sink to wash and bandage the wound, I noticed a faded photocopy on the wall that offered instructions on dealing with an amputated finger. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Reattachment is always possible,\" the sheet said. \"Stop the bleeding and place the lonely piece in a wet towel...\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, it was one of those \"What am I doing here?\" moments. But I hung in there. Before starting my apprenticeship, I had read Bill Buford's book \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1400034477/kqedorg-20\">Heat\u003c/a>,\" and recalled that Buford had stabbed himself within days of starting at one of Mario Batali's restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.oliveto.com/\">Oliveto\u003c/a>, founded more than 20 years ago, has a long history of training interns, even those who are initially inept. Like other high-end kitchens, the restaurant's menu is labor intensive, especially in the spring and summer months, when farmers and suppliers deliver boxes of artichokes, beans and other produce to the kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Interns provide this labor for free. In exchange, they pick up tips, training and contacts they'll never get at culinary school. And if they work hard and show promise, they may get a shot at a paying job in the kitchen, should one open up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>People ask me:\u003c/strong> Is this just a temporary gig? Are you contemplating a career change?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't know. My presumption is that I will return to my newspaper job when my six-month stint is over. But I have to admit, the life of a chef is alluring, even with the absurdly low pay. \"It gets under your skin,\" says Canales, who started interning at Oliveto 15 years ago after leaving a corporate telecom job.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since April, I've been keeping a \u003ca href=\"http://www.sacbee.com/static/weblogs/the_chef_apprentice/\">personal blog\u003c/a>, which is largely focused on my day-to-day experience as a kitchen apprentice. For \"Bay Area Bites,\" my posts will be more focused on classic techniques of Italian cooking, and tips and recipes I’ve picked up from working at Oliveto.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Here is one thing I've learned:\u003c/strong> There is no \"magic\" to preparing superlative food. The artistry that arrives on your plate at the best restaurants is not prepared by Houdini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What separates great chefs from good ones is training, practice, creativity, attention to detail and a passion for the food they are preparing. All of these are within reach of home chefs -- those who prefer to do their cooking in more sedate settings, without a soundtrack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/fish400.jpg\" alt=\"Photo of a mackerel, from the Monterey Bay, right before I filleted it for that night's dinner menu. Photo by Stuart Leavenworth \" title=\"Photo of a mackerel, from the Monterey Bay, right before I filleted it for that night's dinner menu.\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-4284\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo of a mackerel, from the Monterey Bay, right before I filleted it for that night's dinner menu. Photo by Stuart Leavenworth\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"For the last two months, I've been part of this dinner troupe, as a stagehand -- a chef apprentice. Starting in April, I took a leave from my job as an editorial writer and columnist for The Sacramento Bee to intern at Oliveto, an Italian restaurant in Rockridge.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1244245059,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":22,"wordCount":830},"headData":{"title":"The curtain goes up on an Oliveto apprenticeship | KQED","description":"For the last two months, I've been part of this dinner troupe, as a stagehand -- a chef apprentice. Starting in April, I took a leave from my job as an editorial writer and columnist for The Sacramento Bee to intern at Oliveto, an Italian restaurant in Rockridge.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The curtain goes up on an Oliveto apprenticeship","datePublished":"2009-06-06T15:00:00.000Z","dateModified":"2009-06-05T23:37:39.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"4252 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=4252","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/06/06/the-curtain-goes-up-on-an-oliveto-apprenticeship/","disqusTitle":"The curtain goes up on an Oliveto apprenticeship","path":"/bayareabites/4252/the-curtain-goes-up-on-an-oliveto-apprenticeship","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_4264\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/canales-intern-hatten300.jpg\" alt=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales (left) cutting swordfish belly for a crudo. Watching him is intern Nick Hatten. Photo by Stuart Leavenworth\" title=\"Oliveto Chef Paul Canales (left) cutting swordfish belly for a crudo. Watching him is intern Nick Hatten.\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-4264\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oliveto Chef Paul Canales (left) cutting swordfish belly for a crudo. Watching him is intern Nick Hatten. Photo by Stuart Leavenworth \u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It's 4 p.m. on a typical afternoon at \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/2009/04/16/oliveto-cafe-restaurant-restaurant-info/\">Oliveto\u003c/a>, and chefs and interns are hurriedly chopping vegetables, stirring pots, de-boning fish and preparing for that night's dinner service, which starts in 90 minutes.\u003cbr>\nService people are rushing through the kitchen, carrying glassware or trays of olives. Dishwashers are trying to return saucepans to overhead hooks, without dropping one on someone's head.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a frenetic dance that occurs daily at the Oakland restaurant, and to add to the frenzy, it comes with a soundtrack. Many afternoons, Chef Paul Canales blasts acid jazz from the boom box. Nothing like some mind-bending music to sharpen your focus. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the last two months, I've been part of this dinner troupe, as a stagehand -- a chef apprentice. Starting in April, I took a leave from my job as an editorial writer and columnist for \u003ca href=\"http://www.sacbee.com/\">The Sacramento Bee\u003c/a> to intern at \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/2009/04/16/oliveto-cafe-restaurant-restaurant-info/\">Oliveto\u003c/a>, an Italian restaurant in Rockridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's been a humbling transition. Until April, I worked in a cushy office and shadowed the power players in California's capitol. Now I'm on my feet all day in a hot, windowless kitchen, taking orders from young sous chefs. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet in the realm of unpaid sabbaticals, this one can't be beat. Anyone with an interest in food and cooking needs to work in a restaurant, particularly one like Oliveto. Concepts that once seemed so exotic and unattainable -- curing salami, turning out trays of handmade ravioli -- now seem within my grasp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In recent weeks, I've filleted fresh mackerel, prepared soft shell crabs, cut up and cured pork belly for pancetta and braised porcini mushrooms for cannelloni, which I later rolled by hand. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've also improved my knife skills. Dicing dozens of onions and carrots, day after day, helps in that regard.\u003cbr>\nThat said, my initial performance was far from stellar. In one of his first assignments -- a test, perhaps? -- Chef Canales asked me to \"turn\" a potato. This involved peeling a small spud with a sharp paring knife, turning the potato with my left hand.\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_4275\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/stu-leavenworth300.jpg\" alt=\"Stuart Leavenworth, paring a potato, this time without bloodshed. Photo by Carl Costas, Sacramento Bee\" title=\"Stuart Leavenworth, paring a potato, this time without bloodshed.\" width=\"300\" height=\"429\" class=\"size-full wp-image-4275\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stuart Leavenworth, paring a potato, this time without bloodshed. Photo by Carl Costas, Sacramento Bee\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within a few minutes, I had managed to insert the knife tip into my left thumb. Blood was running out. As I moved to the sink to wash and bandage the wound, I noticed a faded photocopy on the wall that offered instructions on dealing with an amputated finger. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Reattachment is always possible,\" the sheet said. \"Stop the bleeding and place the lonely piece in a wet towel...\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, it was one of those \"What am I doing here?\" moments. But I hung in there. Before starting my apprenticeship, I had read Bill Buford's book \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1400034477/kqedorg-20\">Heat\u003c/a>,\" and recalled that Buford had stabbed himself within days of starting at one of Mario Batali's restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.oliveto.com/\">Oliveto\u003c/a>, founded more than 20 years ago, has a long history of training interns, even those who are initially inept. Like other high-end kitchens, the restaurant's menu is labor intensive, especially in the spring and summer months, when farmers and suppliers deliver boxes of artichokes, beans and other produce to the kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Interns provide this labor for free. In exchange, they pick up tips, training and contacts they'll never get at culinary school. And if they work hard and show promise, they may get a shot at a paying job in the kitchen, should one open up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>People ask me:\u003c/strong> Is this just a temporary gig? Are you contemplating a career change?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't know. My presumption is that I will return to my newspaper job when my six-month stint is over. But I have to admit, the life of a chef is alluring, even with the absurdly low pay. \"It gets under your skin,\" says Canales, who started interning at Oliveto 15 years ago after leaving a corporate telecom job.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since April, I've been keeping a \u003ca href=\"http://www.sacbee.com/static/weblogs/the_chef_apprentice/\">personal blog\u003c/a>, which is largely focused on my day-to-day experience as a kitchen apprentice. For \"Bay Area Bites,\" my posts will be more focused on classic techniques of Italian cooking, and tips and recipes I’ve picked up from working at Oliveto.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Here is one thing I've learned:\u003c/strong> There is no \"magic\" to preparing superlative food. The artistry that arrives on your plate at the best restaurants is not prepared by Houdini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What separates great chefs from good ones is training, practice, creativity, attention to detail and a passion for the food they are preparing. All of these are within reach of home chefs -- those who prefer to do their cooking in more sedate settings, without a soundtrack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/06/fish400.jpg\" alt=\"Photo of a mackerel, from the Monterey Bay, right before I filleted it for that night's dinner menu. Photo by Stuart Leavenworth \" title=\"Photo of a mackerel, from the Monterey Bay, right before I filleted it for that night's dinner menu.\" width=\"400\" height=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-4284\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo of a mackerel, from the Monterey Bay, right before I filleted it for that night's dinner menu. Photo by Stuart Leavenworth\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/4252/the-curtain-goes-up-on-an-oliveto-apprenticeship","authors":["5059"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_64","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_2171","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_2238","bayareabites_2239"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. 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Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. 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