The Damel Brings Senegalese and Bahian Flavors to Oakland
Watch: Despite Immense Odds, BBQ Pitmaster Matt Horn’s Optimism is Undefeated
New Series ‘Dishes of the Diaspora’ Spotlights African Food and Culture in the Bay Area
What the Holidays Mean for Me, a Chef Who Left Oakland for Senegal
After a Long Wait, Horn Barbecue Opens Saturday in Old Brown Sugar Kitchen Space
Your Guide to the Bay Area’s Best Noodles
Creators of Popular S+M Vegan Pop-Up Find a Permanent Home
Chef Tanya Holland's Town Fare Raises the Oakland Museum's Culinary Profile
Before Impossible Burgers, the Bay Area Perfected Fake Meats for Decades
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In fact, it wasn’t customary for boys and men in Senegal to learn how to cook. But after his father passed away, his mother became the sole provider for the family's six children, and she spent long hours working, returning home late to cook dinner. This caused enough heartache and tribulation for Oumar to step in and support his mother in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the cultural backlash and mockery from his friends, he knew that cooking was his family’s saving grace. One day his mother told him, “You never know when you're going to need this, because life is long. You're helping me and you're getting knowledge.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139667\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-139667 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel6.jpg\" alt=\"Oumar Diouf with siblings in Senegal.\" width=\"800\" height=\"601\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel6.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel6-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel6-768x577.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oumar Diouf, at center, with siblings in Senegal. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Oumar Diuof)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Those words later rang true when Oumar left Senegal to play professional soccer in Argentina at the age of 22. After being let go due to an injury, he soon rediscovered his love for cooking. It was in Argentina where he learned about empanadas and the complex flavors wrapped into each savory pastry, which would later become a best-selling dish at The Damel, his brick-and-mortar restaurant in downtown Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Oumar picked up another important experience before coming to the Bay Area. In 2008, three years after he'd moved to Argentina, he successfully opened a restaurant in Necochea, a small town off the coast of Buenos Aires. Despite his success in Argentina, it left him unfulfilled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While on vacation in Brazil that same year, Oumar noticed something familiar in the sea of people, and their clothing and cuisines. He felt a sense of comfort. He was home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I decided to move to Brazil to pursue the idea of finding out more why Brazilian food was so similar to African food. I ended up traveling to Bahia and that's where I kind of like, 'Wow, this is so cool,' because 80% of their culture in food and everything is African-descendant.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139671\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-139671 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel2.jpg\" alt=\"Oumar Diouf as a boy in Senegal.\" width=\"800\" height=\"659\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel2.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel2-160x132.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel2-768x633.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oumar Diouf as a boy in Senegal, with his mother. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Oumar Diuof)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One of those dishes is called \u003ca href=\"https://www.thedamel.com/online-ordering/the-damel/menu\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Acarajé\u003c/a>, which is similar to Senegal’s Àkàrà. Àkàrà, a West African dish, is a bean fritter made from cowpeas. The beans are washed and soaked overnight, then blended with red habanero peppers, onions, red bell peppers, and salt. The mixture is then scooped with a ladle into hot bubbling oil, where it's fried to a golden brown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CIHfWLZBHDF/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Acarajé is made in much the same way, with the variation of being fried in palm oil and stuffed with cassava puréed with coconut milk, and topped with Brazilian vinaigrette salsa. Acarajé is currently a staple at The Damel, where customers rave about the bold yet delicious flavors at play.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Oumar moved to Oakland in 2017, he began an Afro-Brazilian catering business that quickly flourished after he catered a lunch for Salesforce. In May 2019, he opened his restaurant, The Damel, which features dishes from his travels to Argentina, Brazil, and home country Senegal. Along with best-selling Acarajé, it's known for Oumar's \u003ca href=\"https://www.thedamel.com/online-ordering/the-damel/menu\">empanadas\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CC_TjfEB1Oh/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Damel’s empanadas are like no other—in fact, the dough is imported directly from Argentina to provide the most authentic flavor. “The ground beef is one of the most popular ones,\" Oumar explains. \"The ground beef, I'm making it in a way that nobody makes it here. We take the fat out, and we put a lot of flavor in it. So it makes you want to eat more, yet feel guilt-free, because it’s healthy. Although it has Argentinian influences, I bring my own touch to it. So far, we got a recipe that people love.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139668\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-139668 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel5-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Oumar Diouf in the kitchen of The Damel.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel5-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel5-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel5-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel5-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel5-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel5.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oumar Diouf in the kitchen of The Damel. \u003ccite>(Kyle Sykes)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chef Oumar is on a mission beyond his brick and mortar. He developed a food truck that serves customers across the Bay who cannot visit his restaurant. Despite the circumstances of COVID-19, The Damel continues to strive forward; Oumar plans to open 10 more restaurants by 2022. He's also launched a foundation, and hopes to build homes and playgrounds for orphaned children in need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Whenever I travel to Senegal, I am disheartened because I see a lot of children in the streets begging…when they're supposed to be playing and learning,\" Oumar says. \"I already built one park, and I am planning on building more parks in each city that I know. It’ll be a place where kids can spend their time…instead of the streets.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What started as a way to support his mother and provide for his family has gone beyond the family kitchen table. Oumar has successfully brought cross-cultural flavors to the Bay Area that leave customers coming back time and again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Damel, 1312 Broadway, Oakland. More details \u003ca href=\"https://www.thedamel.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">here\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Chef Oumar Diuof's Senegalese upbringing gets a South American twist in the dishes at his popular restaurant.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621382518,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":17,"wordCount":869},"headData":{"title":"The Damel Brings Senegalese and Bahian Flavors to Oakland | KQED","description":"Senegalese chef Oumar Diouf discovered the tastes of home during his travels in Brazil. Now he serves up Afro-Brazilian street food in Oakland.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"139661 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=139661","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2021/02/03/the-damel-brings-senegalese-and-bahian-flavors-to-oakland/","disqusTitle":"The Damel Brings Senegalese and Bahian Flavors to Oakland","videoEmbed":"https://youtu.be/lEaRxwWxA-o","nprByline":"Anthonia Onyejekwe","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/139661/the-damel-brings-senegalese-and-bahian-flavors-to-oakland","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2021/02/Content-Description_DotD_The-Damel.pdf\">\u003cem>Download video content description.\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oumar Diouf, born in Meckhe, Senegal, never imagined himself becoming a chef. In fact, it wasn’t customary for boys and men in Senegal to learn how to cook. But after his father passed away, his mother became the sole provider for the family's six children, and she spent long hours working, returning home late to cook dinner. This caused enough heartache and tribulation for Oumar to step in and support his mother in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the cultural backlash and mockery from his friends, he knew that cooking was his family’s saving grace. One day his mother told him, “You never know when you're going to need this, because life is long. You're helping me and you're getting knowledge.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139667\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-139667 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel6.jpg\" alt=\"Oumar Diouf with siblings in Senegal.\" width=\"800\" height=\"601\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel6.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel6-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel6-768x577.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oumar Diouf, at center, with siblings in Senegal. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Oumar Diuof)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Those words later rang true when Oumar left Senegal to play professional soccer in Argentina at the age of 22. After being let go due to an injury, he soon rediscovered his love for cooking. It was in Argentina where he learned about empanadas and the complex flavors wrapped into each savory pastry, which would later become a best-selling dish at The Damel, his brick-and-mortar restaurant in downtown Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Oumar picked up another important experience before coming to the Bay Area. In 2008, three years after he'd moved to Argentina, he successfully opened a restaurant in Necochea, a small town off the coast of Buenos Aires. Despite his success in Argentina, it left him unfulfilled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While on vacation in Brazil that same year, Oumar noticed something familiar in the sea of people, and their clothing and cuisines. He felt a sense of comfort. He was home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I decided to move to Brazil to pursue the idea of finding out more why Brazilian food was so similar to African food. I ended up traveling to Bahia and that's where I kind of like, 'Wow, this is so cool,' because 80% of their culture in food and everything is African-descendant.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139671\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-139671 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel2.jpg\" alt=\"Oumar Diouf as a boy in Senegal.\" width=\"800\" height=\"659\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel2.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel2-160x132.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel2-768x633.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oumar Diouf as a boy in Senegal, with his mother. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Oumar Diuof)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One of those dishes is called \u003ca href=\"https://www.thedamel.com/online-ordering/the-damel/menu\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Acarajé\u003c/a>, which is similar to Senegal’s Àkàrà. Àkàrà, a West African dish, is a bean fritter made from cowpeas. The beans are washed and soaked overnight, then blended with red habanero peppers, onions, red bell peppers, and salt. The mixture is then scooped with a ladle into hot bubbling oil, where it's fried to a golden brown.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"CIHfWLZBHDF"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Acarajé is made in much the same way, with the variation of being fried in palm oil and stuffed with cassava puréed with coconut milk, and topped with Brazilian vinaigrette salsa. Acarajé is currently a staple at The Damel, where customers rave about the bold yet delicious flavors at play.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Oumar moved to Oakland in 2017, he began an Afro-Brazilian catering business that quickly flourished after he catered a lunch for Salesforce. In May 2019, he opened his restaurant, The Damel, which features dishes from his travels to Argentina, Brazil, and home country Senegal. Along with best-selling Acarajé, it's known for Oumar's \u003ca href=\"https://www.thedamel.com/online-ordering/the-damel/menu\">empanadas\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"CC_TjfEB1Oh"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The Damel’s empanadas are like no other—in fact, the dough is imported directly from Argentina to provide the most authentic flavor. “The ground beef is one of the most popular ones,\" Oumar explains. \"The ground beef, I'm making it in a way that nobody makes it here. We take the fat out, and we put a lot of flavor in it. So it makes you want to eat more, yet feel guilt-free, because it’s healthy. Although it has Argentinian influences, I bring my own touch to it. So far, we got a recipe that people love.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139668\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-139668 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel5-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Oumar Diouf in the kitchen of The Damel.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel5-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel5-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel5-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel5-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel5-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Damel5.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oumar Diouf in the kitchen of The Damel. \u003ccite>(Kyle Sykes)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chef Oumar is on a mission beyond his brick and mortar. He developed a food truck that serves customers across the Bay who cannot visit his restaurant. Despite the circumstances of COVID-19, The Damel continues to strive forward; Oumar plans to open 10 more restaurants by 2022. He's also launched a foundation, and hopes to build homes and playgrounds for orphaned children in need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Whenever I travel to Senegal, I am disheartened because I see a lot of children in the streets begging…when they're supposed to be playing and learning,\" Oumar says. \"I already built one park, and I am planning on building more parks in each city that I know. It’ll be a place where kids can spend their time…instead of the streets.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What started as a way to support his mother and provide for his family has gone beyond the family kitchen table. Oumar has successfully brought cross-cultural flavors to the Bay Area that leave customers coming back time and again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The Damel, 1312 Broadway, Oakland. More details \u003ca href=\"https://www.thedamel.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">here\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/139661/the-damel-brings-senegalese-and-bahian-flavors-to-oakland","authors":["byline_bayareabites_139661"],"categories":["bayareabites_16558","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_17082","bayareabites_366"],"tags":["bayareabites_17062","bayareabites_4260","bayareabites_17063","bayareabites_17065","bayareabites_11120","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_17061","bayareabites_17050","bayareabites_17060"],"featImg":"bayareabites_139670","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_139762":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_139762","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"139762","score":null,"sort":[1611759624000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"watch-despite-immense-odds-bbq-pitmaster-matt-horns-optimism-is-undefeated","title":"Watch: Despite Immense Odds, BBQ Pitmaster Matt Horn’s Optimism is Undefeated","publishDate":1611759624,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>On a crisp fall day at the end of October, Mandela Parkway in industrial West Oakland was buzzing with a very long line of people on a mission.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After four years of planning, \u003ca href=\"https://www.hornbarbecue.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Horn Barbecue\u003c/a> was finally about to open its doors to the public as a brick-and-mortar restaurant. Starting from the entrance, the line stretched down multiple blocks; walking it from end to end took almost five minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The day was filled with a level of anticipation and energy not seen since the start of shelter in place. Some brought lawn chairs, blankets and books for their waits in line. All were masked and socially distant, but a sense of togetherness pervaded; these were Horn Barbecue devotees bonding over the essential love of food.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Early Attempts\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Matt Horn’s journey to opening Horn Barbecue started during his childhood in Fresno, California, where he learned about barbecuing from family gatherings. After attending Valley Forge Military Academy, Horn moved to Los Angeles around 2006, where he latched on to the idea of opening a food truck—but didn’t quite know what to serve.[pullquote size='medium' align='right' citation='Matt Horn']‘We have to understand that what’s for us in life, is for us and nobody can take that away.’[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I was putting the cart before the horse,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A family friend who had worked with barbecue inspired him to start learning how to smoke meats. He practiced in his grandparents’ backyard on an old smoker, describing those early attempts as “bad barbecue.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I had pursued so many different things passionately and it did not work out,” he remembers. And yet, he says, “We have to understand that what’s for us in life, is for us and nobody can take that away.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes that determination meant not getting very much validation. “We were doing the farmer’s market, we would only maybe get 10 or 12, maybe 15 customers a day,” he says of his early pop-ups in L.A. “I told my wife that whether people come and buy the food, or if they don’t, I’m still going to cook it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_139725']From L.A., he looked to find a more permanent home for his endeavors, and he reached out to several breweries in the Bay Area. Just one got back to him, and so by default, West Oakland’s Ale Industries became Horn Barbecue’s pop-up home. But that’s where Matt Horn’s perseverance paid off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Ale Industries events became legendary, with the type of lines typically reserved for central-Texas style barbecue—in Texas. Here was a Californian responsible for three-hour waits for oak wood smoked meats, and people were singing high praises.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/Jeaoviro40s\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2021/01/Horn-BBQ-Content-Description.pdf\">\u003cem>Download Content Description\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Long Awaited Day\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The rising demand for Horn’s barbecue made it clear: it was time to open a brick-and-mortar location. In August 2019, he secured a legendary Oakland spot, the former site of Tanya Holland’s Brown Sugar Kitchen, once also a destination with long waits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next steps, however, weren’t so easy. Horn’s dedication to his dream would be tested time and time again. Among other renovations, Horn had to build a clear glass enclosure inside the restaurant to house what would become California’s first indoor smoker.[aside postID='bayareabites_139388']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I was instructed the only way for me to be able to have my offset smoker was I would have to put it inside the restaurant,” he says. “The restaurant was already a small space, so I had to get creative.” He ended up building a massive 26-foot-wide hood indoors to accommodate the smoker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, the county, city and fire department reversed course. “We were told that we were able to have smokers outside now, after all the work had been done,” he says, per usual, unfazed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Horn Barbecue was slated for a September 2020 opening date, but constantly changing pandemic restrictions delayed plans for an entire month. On Oct. 24, the long-awaited day finally arrived.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At 10:59am, Horn and his employees busied themselves with final preparations. “One minute!” he yelled to the brigade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“One minute!” they yelled back in hearty unison.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The smell of the meats and smoke stoked the anticipation both inside and out. Just 30 seconds before the doors opened, Etta James’ “At Last” began wailing through the restaurant speakers as Horn welcomed in the mob of patient BBQ lovers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His first customer—a barbecue fanatic—had arrived at 6am. “What can I get for you?” Horn asked, knife in hand. He was masked, but undoubtedly beaming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One by one, he offered the crowd his favorites: pulled pork, brisket, sausage links, turkey breast, and beef and pork ribs. He and his staff cut each item in front of the customer to ensure they walked away with the juiciest, freshest servings. Meals were rounded out with the usual-barbecue-sides-suspects of collard greens, mac and cheese, beans, potato salad, and coleslaw. Horn’s wife and partner Nina’s own recipe for banana pudding provided a sweet finish. Guests were elated.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Pivoting in a Pandemic\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>For its first few weeks the hours-long lines persisted. Even in the middle of a pandemic, people were able to sit down and eat in Horn Barbecue’s new outdoor area. But when Governor Gavin Newsom instituted a purple-tier stay-at-home order for Oakland, Horn was forced to do just take-out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nobody said opening a restaurant would be easy, but on top of everything that led him to this moment, Horn has had to contend with a pandemic—and with dining rules that are constantly changing. \"We’re having a hard time, but we’re going to stay focused,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You don’t know what tomorrow is going to bring,” he says. “At times it can be discouraging. But when you have somebody come through those doors and ... you have people try your food for the first time or you hear people saying, ‘Hey man, this is my fifth time. I was here last week.’ That’s what keeps you hopeful.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Horn shares these experiences with most restaurant owners. Between the moments of humble gratitude are frustrations. He’s personally taking all staff members’ temperatures, constantly monitoring hand-washing, and trying to quell fears on both sides of the slicing counter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139769\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-139769 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2021/01/Matt-and-customer_1200.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"675\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2021/01/Matt-and-customer_1200.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2021/01/Matt-and-customer_1200-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2021/01/Matt-and-customer_1200-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2021/01/Matt-and-customer_1200-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2021/01/Matt-and-customer_1200-768x432.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Horn Barbecue, the meat is sliced to order in front of the customer. \u003ccite>(Cecilia Phillips)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I have to be able to create an environment where people are safe,” he says, “but then also still be able to enjoy the craft that I love. I’m like, ‘Okay, how do I still find the play in the midst of this storm and all these ups and downs?’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s his faith, determination and discipline that prevented Horn from giving up a long time ago. What sort of character traits a person would have to possess to try to open a second restaurant during a pandemic have yet to be decided upon. But whatever they are, he has them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Superfans will remember that Horn had a secondary pop-up concept he began publicizing early in 2020 called \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/1/30/21115801/kowbird-matt-horn-fried-chicken-sandwich-oakland\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Kowbird\u003c/a>. The Southern-style fried chicken sandwich pop-up that Horn put on in his—ahem—spare time, was slated to open in “Oakland Assembly” (that constantly evolving and devolving food hall rumored to be opening in the summer of this year) in Jack London Square. Only time and vaccination efforts will tell when any type of indoor food market can realistically consider opening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If I can give anybody any advice in terms of right now with the pandemic,” he says, “keep moving forward because without momentum, you die.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It seems Horn lives by his own advice: he’s hoping for an early 2021 opening for Kowbird in a yet-to-be-determined location. The wait for Horn Barbecue is over, but as it turns out, that was just the beginning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Horn Barbecue is currently open Thursday–Sunday from 11am to sellout for to-go orders. Pre-ordering is now available through the restaurant’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hornbarbecue/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Instagram\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Matt Horn persevered through the pandemic to open his West Oakland restaurant Horn Barbecue—to the delight of hungry crowds","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621382542,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":33,"wordCount":1455},"headData":{"title":"Watch: Despite Immense Odds, BBQ Pitmaster Matt Horn’s Optimism is Undefeated | KQED","description":"Matt Horn persevered through the pandemic to open his West Oakland restaurant Horn Barbecue—to the delight of hungry crowds","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"139762 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=139762","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2021/01/27/watch-despite-immense-odds-bbq-pitmaster-matt-horns-optimism-is-undefeated/","disqusTitle":"Watch: Despite Immense Odds, BBQ Pitmaster Matt Horn’s Optimism is Undefeated","nprByline":"Cecilia Phillips","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/139762/watch-despite-immense-odds-bbq-pitmaster-matt-horns-optimism-is-undefeated","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>On a crisp fall day at the end of October, Mandela Parkway in industrial West Oakland was buzzing with a very long line of people on a mission.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After four years of planning, \u003ca href=\"https://www.hornbarbecue.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Horn Barbecue\u003c/a> was finally about to open its doors to the public as a brick-and-mortar restaurant. Starting from the entrance, the line stretched down multiple blocks; walking it from end to end took almost five minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The day was filled with a level of anticipation and energy not seen since the start of shelter in place. Some brought lawn chairs, blankets and books for their waits in line. All were masked and socially distant, but a sense of togetherness pervaded; these were Horn Barbecue devotees bonding over the essential love of food.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Early Attempts\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Matt Horn’s journey to opening Horn Barbecue started during his childhood in Fresno, California, where he learned about barbecuing from family gatherings. After attending Valley Forge Military Academy, Horn moved to Los Angeles around 2006, where he latched on to the idea of opening a food truck—but didn’t quite know what to serve.\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"‘We have to understand that what’s for us in life, is for us and nobody can take that away.’","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"medium","align":"right","citation":"Matt Horn","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I was putting the cart before the horse,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A family friend who had worked with barbecue inspired him to start learning how to smoke meats. He practiced in his grandparents’ backyard on an old smoker, describing those early attempts as “bad barbecue.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I had pursued so many different things passionately and it did not work out,” he remembers. And yet, he says, “We have to understand that what’s for us in life, is for us and nobody can take that away.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes that determination meant not getting very much validation. “We were doing the farmer’s market, we would only maybe get 10 or 12, maybe 15 customers a day,” he says of his early pop-ups in L.A. “I told my wife that whether people come and buy the food, or if they don’t, I’m still going to cook it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_139725","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>From L.A., he looked to find a more permanent home for his endeavors, and he reached out to several breweries in the Bay Area. Just one got back to him, and so by default, West Oakland’s Ale Industries became Horn Barbecue’s pop-up home. But that’s where Matt Horn’s perseverance paid off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Ale Industries events became legendary, with the type of lines typically reserved for central-Texas style barbecue—in Texas. Here was a Californian responsible for three-hour waits for oak wood smoked meats, and people were singing high praises.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/Jeaoviro40s'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/Jeaoviro40s'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2021/01/Horn-BBQ-Content-Description.pdf\">\u003cem>Download Content Description\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Long Awaited Day\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The rising demand for Horn’s barbecue made it clear: it was time to open a brick-and-mortar location. In August 2019, he secured a legendary Oakland spot, the former site of Tanya Holland’s Brown Sugar Kitchen, once also a destination with long waits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next steps, however, weren’t so easy. Horn’s dedication to his dream would be tested time and time again. Among other renovations, Horn had to build a clear glass enclosure inside the restaurant to house what would become California’s first indoor smoker.\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_139388","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I was instructed the only way for me to be able to have my offset smoker was I would have to put it inside the restaurant,” he says. “The restaurant was already a small space, so I had to get creative.” He ended up building a massive 26-foot-wide hood indoors to accommodate the smoker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, the county, city and fire department reversed course. “We were told that we were able to have smokers outside now, after all the work had been done,” he says, per usual, unfazed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Horn Barbecue was slated for a September 2020 opening date, but constantly changing pandemic restrictions delayed plans for an entire month. On Oct. 24, the long-awaited day finally arrived.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At 10:59am, Horn and his employees busied themselves with final preparations. “One minute!” he yelled to the brigade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“One minute!” they yelled back in hearty unison.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The smell of the meats and smoke stoked the anticipation both inside and out. Just 30 seconds before the doors opened, Etta James’ “At Last” began wailing through the restaurant speakers as Horn welcomed in the mob of patient BBQ lovers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His first customer—a barbecue fanatic—had arrived at 6am. “What can I get for you?” Horn asked, knife in hand. He was masked, but undoubtedly beaming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One by one, he offered the crowd his favorites: pulled pork, brisket, sausage links, turkey breast, and beef and pork ribs. He and his staff cut each item in front of the customer to ensure they walked away with the juiciest, freshest servings. Meals were rounded out with the usual-barbecue-sides-suspects of collard greens, mac and cheese, beans, potato salad, and coleslaw. Horn’s wife and partner Nina’s own recipe for banana pudding provided a sweet finish. Guests were elated.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Pivoting in a Pandemic\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>For its first few weeks the hours-long lines persisted. Even in the middle of a pandemic, people were able to sit down and eat in Horn Barbecue’s new outdoor area. But when Governor Gavin Newsom instituted a purple-tier stay-at-home order for Oakland, Horn was forced to do just take-out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nobody said opening a restaurant would be easy, but on top of everything that led him to this moment, Horn has had to contend with a pandemic—and with dining rules that are constantly changing. \"We’re having a hard time, but we’re going to stay focused,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You don’t know what tomorrow is going to bring,” he says. “At times it can be discouraging. But when you have somebody come through those doors and ... you have people try your food for the first time or you hear people saying, ‘Hey man, this is my fifth time. I was here last week.’ That’s what keeps you hopeful.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Horn shares these experiences with most restaurant owners. Between the moments of humble gratitude are frustrations. He’s personally taking all staff members’ temperatures, constantly monitoring hand-washing, and trying to quell fears on both sides of the slicing counter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139769\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-139769 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2021/01/Matt-and-customer_1200.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1200\" height=\"675\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2021/01/Matt-and-customer_1200.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2021/01/Matt-and-customer_1200-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2021/01/Matt-and-customer_1200-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2021/01/Matt-and-customer_1200-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2021/01/Matt-and-customer_1200-768x432.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Horn Barbecue, the meat is sliced to order in front of the customer. \u003ccite>(Cecilia Phillips)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I have to be able to create an environment where people are safe,” he says, “but then also still be able to enjoy the craft that I love. I’m like, ‘Okay, how do I still find the play in the midst of this storm and all these ups and downs?’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s his faith, determination and discipline that prevented Horn from giving up a long time ago. What sort of character traits a person would have to possess to try to open a second restaurant during a pandemic have yet to be decided upon. But whatever they are, he has them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Superfans will remember that Horn had a secondary pop-up concept he began publicizing early in 2020 called \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/1/30/21115801/kowbird-matt-horn-fried-chicken-sandwich-oakland\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Kowbird\u003c/a>. The Southern-style fried chicken sandwich pop-up that Horn put on in his—ahem—spare time, was slated to open in “Oakland Assembly” (that constantly evolving and devolving food hall rumored to be opening in the summer of this year) in Jack London Square. Only time and vaccination efforts will tell when any type of indoor food market can realistically consider opening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If I can give anybody any advice in terms of right now with the pandemic,” he says, “keep moving forward because without momentum, you die.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It seems Horn lives by his own advice: he’s hoping for an early 2021 opening for Kowbird in a yet-to-be-determined location. The wait for Horn Barbecue is over, but as it turns out, that was just the beginning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Horn Barbecue is currently open Thursday–Sunday from 11am to sellout for to-go orders. Pre-ordering is now available through the restaurant’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hornbarbecue/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Instagram\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/139762/watch-despite-immense-odds-bbq-pitmaster-matt-horns-optimism-is-undefeated","authors":["byline_bayareabites_139762"],"categories":["bayareabites_16558","bayareabites_17082"],"tags":["bayareabites_12300","bayareabites_17070","bayareabites_17010","bayareabites_14757"],"featImg":"bayareabites_139768","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_139725":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_139725","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"139725","score":null,"sort":[1610736321000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"new-series-dishes-of-the-diaspora-spotlights-african-food-and-culture-in-the-bay-area","title":"New Series ‘Dishes of the Diaspora’ Spotlights African Food and Culture in the Bay Area","publishDate":1610736321,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>https://youtu.be/VhjASkWot7k\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Senegalese akara, South African bunny chow, Nigerian jollof rice — these are just a few of the flavorful dishes African immigrant chefs regularly share with their Bay Area neighbors. Each dish tells a story of ancestry, migration, and memory, and the tastes and aromas keep chefs and diners connected to home, even when they’re far away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dishes of the Diaspora, a new KQED web series premiering in February, tells their stories. In each episode, African restaurant owners from around the Bay invite viewers into the kitchen to share personal experiences, signature dishes, and fresh takes on comfort food. The series also provides a front-row seat to the unprecedented hardships for restaurants brought on by the pandemic. Running a restaurant in the most expensive region in the country is a feat in itself, and it can be doubly challenging for immigrants navigating a new culture and unfamiliar systems.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the Dishes of the Diaspora premiere, we meet Oumar Diouf, chef/owner of The Damel, a restaurant and food truck in Oakland’s Uptown neighborhood. After learning to cook to help his mother as a child in Senegal, Diouf’s journey to Brazil inspired a mission to share his cross-cultural flavors with the world. Now he cooks up a mix of Senegalese, Argentinian, and Brazilian street food, opening a window into the history of these cultures with every plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dishes of the Diaspora premieres Wednesday, Feb. 3 on \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/dishesofthediaspora\">www.kqed.org/dishesofthediaspora\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":null,"status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621382588,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":6,"wordCount":252},"headData":{"title":"New Series ‘Dishes of the Diaspora’ Spotlights African Food and Culture in the Bay Area | KQED","description":"African restaurant owners from around the Bay invite us into their kitchens to share personal experiences and signature dishes.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"139725 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=139725","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2021/01/15/new-series-dishes-of-the-diaspora-spotlights-african-food-and-culture-in-the-bay-area/","disqusTitle":"New Series ‘Dishes of the Diaspora’ Spotlights African Food and Culture in the Bay Area","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/139725/new-series-dishes-of-the-diaspora-spotlights-african-food-and-culture-in-the-bay-area","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/VhjASkWot7k'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/VhjASkWot7k'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>Senegalese akara, South African bunny chow, Nigerian jollof rice — these are just a few of the flavorful dishes African immigrant chefs regularly share with their Bay Area neighbors. Each dish tells a story of ancestry, migration, and memory, and the tastes and aromas keep chefs and diners connected to home, even when they’re far away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dishes of the Diaspora, a new KQED web series premiering in February, tells their stories. In each episode, African restaurant owners from around the Bay invite viewers into the kitchen to share personal experiences, signature dishes, and fresh takes on comfort food. The series also provides a front-row seat to the unprecedented hardships for restaurants brought on by the pandemic. Running a restaurant in the most expensive region in the country is a feat in itself, and it can be doubly challenging for immigrants navigating a new culture and unfamiliar systems.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the Dishes of the Diaspora premiere, we meet Oumar Diouf, chef/owner of The Damel, a restaurant and food truck in Oakland’s Uptown neighborhood. After learning to cook to help his mother as a child in Senegal, Diouf’s journey to Brazil inspired a mission to share his cross-cultural flavors with the world. Now he cooks up a mix of Senegalese, Argentinian, and Brazilian street food, opening a window into the history of these cultures with every plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dishes of the Diaspora premieres Wednesday, Feb. 3 on \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/dishesofthediaspora\">www.kqed.org/dishesofthediaspora\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/139725/new-series-dishes-of-the-diaspora-spotlights-african-food-and-culture-in-the-bay-area","authors":["11677"],"categories":["bayareabites_16558","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_17082","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_366"],"tags":["bayareabites_17067","bayareabites_14744","bayareabites_17065","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_92","bayareabites_14745"],"featImg":"bayareabites_139728","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_139637":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_139637","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"139637","score":null,"sort":[1607961627000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"what-the-holidays-mean-for-me-a-chef-who-left-oakland-for-senegal","title":"What the Holidays Mean for Me, a Chef Who Left Oakland for Senegal","publishDate":1607961627,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>Monifa Dayo is a chef and author who recently left Oakland for Senegal due to the United States’ racism and response to the COVID-19 pandemic. Here, she shares her plans for the holidays, away from the Bay Area that she’d made her home. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanksgiving and Christmas are hard for me. Allow me to give you some context.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Currently, I live in the capital city of Dakar. I moved to Senegal several weeks ahead of the 2020 presidential elections. I was under duress. COVID-19 was in its first phase, blazing largely through the Black and Latinx community. Statistics persisted showing an acutely disproportionate illustration of how, once again, Black people bear the brunt of national degradation due to white tyranny. I've never been able to dismiss this factuality as happenstance or coincidence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The anxiety and upset I experienced during this time due to the blatant dehumanization of Black people perpetuated by American hypocrisy was paramount. The efforts made to carry on about my business became more and more dreadful, and caused a series of health problems that affected my fertility, mental health and physical well-being. Essentially, this country was killing me. I was facing a near-nervous breakdown and, even deeper than that, I was embodying the same energy that my life’s work seeks to extinguish in the world. I was bitter, angry, and most importantly I was hurt. I was in dire need of reconnecting to my center, so radical self-care was the recipe for my resurrection. Such precious time with myself lent the opportunity to understand that at the heart of my disdain was the culture of America, and its systems of oppression and racism. Within six weeks of my revelation, I was on Sénégalais land. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So I find myself here in Dakar during the American holiday months and a global pandemic. Every aspect of my life has shifted, so I’ll explain first what that shift looks like for me here. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139689\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.Lake_-800x798.jpg\" alt=\"For the first time in years, Monifa Dayo won't spend this holiday season in Oakland, but rather, in Dakar.\" width=\"800\" height=\"798\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-139689\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.Lake_-800x798.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.Lake_-1020x1018.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.Lake_-160x160.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.Lake_-768x766.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.Lake_.jpg 1242w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">For the first time in years, Monifa Dayo won't spend this holiday season in Oakland, but rather, in Dakar. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Monifa Dayo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Senegal finds itself at the top of a global ranking in its response to COVID-19. As a result, cases are low and the death toll is miniscule, considering the density of the country. One can attribute this success largely to the government’s early response and firm actions rooted in science-based information, prompt and reliable testing, a clear and detailed plan of action and consistent national messaging to its constituents. Yet as I’m constantly reminded, this virus exists and still very much affects the people of Senegal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I live in an economically modest neighborhood where the idea of America likens itself to an iconic dream sold through Hollywood movies. The concept of being here in Dakar during Christmas and not the perceived money pot of America is baffling for some of my friends. As I speak French, I find difficulties in expressing detailed matters of the heart, so I simply state that I do not like America and I find more happiness here. People never ask me about Thanksgiving, as it’s strictly an American festivity, but Christmas has global appeal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I analyze the premise of Thanksgiving, I’m constantly wondering why we celebrate the start of the genocide of an indigenous people on their own native land. This brainwashing of Thanksgiving has embedded itself into the lifestyles of Black Americans and non-Black Americans alike. I actually understand why. A fundamental emotion all humans experience is this desire to be in community, to be loved and to love. Thanksgiving offers a resolve to these essential feelings of gratitude, generosity, family and feasting, even if such festive roots are cursory or delusional.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139687\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.FoxNakai-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A scene from one of Monifa Dayo's supper clubs in Oakland. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-139687\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.FoxNakai-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.FoxNakai-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.FoxNakai-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.FoxNakai-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.FoxNakai-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.FoxNakai.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A scene from one of Monifa Dayo's supper clubs in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Fox Nakai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The dominant religion in Senegal is Islam, though there are those who identify with Christianity as well. (The coolest part of Christmas here is that Santa Claus is Black.) I’ve always had a bit of a love/hate relationship with Christmas. Most years I end up stewing with sadness in my Oakland apartment alone, wishing I had someone to share a moment with. Although one year, as a child, I recall waking up on Christmas morning with my siblings to find brand new bikes waiting for us all. To this day that memory serves as a respite from life’s inevitable tribulations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my apartment building here in Dakar, my friend and landlord (she is American and her husband is Sénégalais) is excited to wrap gifts for her children and embody an American-style expression of Christmas. I wish I could get into it, but honestly, I just want to make really good food, sit on my balcony and ponder my life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a chef, I’m placed in an interesting situation regarding the holidays. There is an assumption that I revel in this moment all year—rubbing my hands together and salivating about all of the business to come my way. But that’s not true for me. Being a food industry professional, all I want to do is shop at open air markets, bask in the glory of seasonal produce, adopt new and creative ways of expressing said produce and share elaborate or modest meals with friends and family. But I am here in Senegal, and not afforded that luxury.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139686\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.Portrait.jpg\" alt=\"Monifa Dayo.\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" class=\"size-full wp-image-139686\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.Portrait.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.Portrait-160x213.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monifa Dayo. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Monifa Dayo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What I will do instead to celebrate the holidays, considering COVID-19 restrictions and my geographic location, is this: I will be grateful for all that I am so privileged to have. I, too, live a modest life, yet I maintain two homes on two different continents, I am healthy and I am gainfully employed. My family is all COVID-free, and we are expecting a new addition to the family this New Year. I will buy small gifts for the children in my life here; I can’t help it, and I love them dearly. I will cook something special for myself, maybe lamb or a family favorite, Soupa Kanja (okra soup), with all of the seafood I can find. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My heart is quite heavy as I write, weeping tears of liberated sorrow. Whichever course of holiday action I take, I’m confident it will never resemble the life once experienced without the constraints of social distancing and the geographic distance Africa presents. I will attempt to Facetime with my father and my dear friends. COVID-19 exacerbated the symptoms of the racist society America is founded on, and I’m grateful for such unmasking while acknowledging there is so much more heartache ahead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pandemic has placed a dagger into the heart of the community, causing us to go deeper and forge a new expression of who we are and what honestly matters to us most. May these moments never be in vain.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"In Dakar, during the American holiday months and a global pandemic, every aspect of my life has shifted.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621555206,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":1184},"headData":{"title":"What the Holidays Mean for Me, a Chef Who Left Oakland for Senegal | KQED","description":"In Dakar, during the American holiday months and a global pandemic, every aspect of my life has shifted.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"139637 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=139637","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/12/14/what-the-holidays-mean-for-me-a-chef-who-left-oakland-for-senegal/","disqusTitle":"What the Holidays Mean for Me, a Chef Who Left Oakland for Senegal","source":"Commentary","sourceUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/artscommentary","nprByline":"Monifa Dayo","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/139637/what-the-holidays-mean-for-me-a-chef-who-left-oakland-for-senegal","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Monifa Dayo is a chef and author who recently left Oakland for Senegal due to the United States’ racism and response to the COVID-19 pandemic. Here, she shares her plans for the holidays, away from the Bay Area that she’d made her home. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanksgiving and Christmas are hard for me. Allow me to give you some context.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Currently, I live in the capital city of Dakar. I moved to Senegal several weeks ahead of the 2020 presidential elections. I was under duress. COVID-19 was in its first phase, blazing largely through the Black and Latinx community. Statistics persisted showing an acutely disproportionate illustration of how, once again, Black people bear the brunt of national degradation due to white tyranny. I've never been able to dismiss this factuality as happenstance or coincidence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The anxiety and upset I experienced during this time due to the blatant dehumanization of Black people perpetuated by American hypocrisy was paramount. The efforts made to carry on about my business became more and more dreadful, and caused a series of health problems that affected my fertility, mental health and physical well-being. Essentially, this country was killing me. I was facing a near-nervous breakdown and, even deeper than that, I was embodying the same energy that my life’s work seeks to extinguish in the world. I was bitter, angry, and most importantly I was hurt. I was in dire need of reconnecting to my center, so radical self-care was the recipe for my resurrection. Such precious time with myself lent the opportunity to understand that at the heart of my disdain was the culture of America, and its systems of oppression and racism. Within six weeks of my revelation, I was on Sénégalais land. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So I find myself here in Dakar during the American holiday months and a global pandemic. Every aspect of my life has shifted, so I’ll explain first what that shift looks like for me here. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139689\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.Lake_-800x798.jpg\" alt=\"For the first time in years, Monifa Dayo won't spend this holiday season in Oakland, but rather, in Dakar.\" width=\"800\" height=\"798\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-139689\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.Lake_-800x798.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.Lake_-1020x1018.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.Lake_-160x160.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.Lake_-768x766.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.Lake_.jpg 1242w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">For the first time in years, Monifa Dayo won't spend this holiday season in Oakland, but rather, in Dakar. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Monifa Dayo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Senegal finds itself at the top of a global ranking in its response to COVID-19. As a result, cases are low and the death toll is miniscule, considering the density of the country. One can attribute this success largely to the government’s early response and firm actions rooted in science-based information, prompt and reliable testing, a clear and detailed plan of action and consistent national messaging to its constituents. Yet as I’m constantly reminded, this virus exists and still very much affects the people of Senegal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I live in an economically modest neighborhood where the idea of America likens itself to an iconic dream sold through Hollywood movies. The concept of being here in Dakar during Christmas and not the perceived money pot of America is baffling for some of my friends. As I speak French, I find difficulties in expressing detailed matters of the heart, so I simply state that I do not like America and I find more happiness here. People never ask me about Thanksgiving, as it’s strictly an American festivity, but Christmas has global appeal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I analyze the premise of Thanksgiving, I’m constantly wondering why we celebrate the start of the genocide of an indigenous people on their own native land. This brainwashing of Thanksgiving has embedded itself into the lifestyles of Black Americans and non-Black Americans alike. I actually understand why. A fundamental emotion all humans experience is this desire to be in community, to be loved and to love. Thanksgiving offers a resolve to these essential feelings of gratitude, generosity, family and feasting, even if such festive roots are cursory or delusional.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139687\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.FoxNakai-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A scene from one of Monifa Dayo's supper clubs in Oakland. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-139687\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.FoxNakai-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.FoxNakai-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.FoxNakai-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.FoxNakai-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.FoxNakai-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.FoxNakai.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A scene from one of Monifa Dayo's supper clubs in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Fox Nakai)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The dominant religion in Senegal is Islam, though there are those who identify with Christianity as well. (The coolest part of Christmas here is that Santa Claus is Black.) I’ve always had a bit of a love/hate relationship with Christmas. Most years I end up stewing with sadness in my Oakland apartment alone, wishing I had someone to share a moment with. Although one year, as a child, I recall waking up on Christmas morning with my siblings to find brand new bikes waiting for us all. To this day that memory serves as a respite from life’s inevitable tribulations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In my apartment building here in Dakar, my friend and landlord (she is American and her husband is Sénégalais) is excited to wrap gifts for her children and embody an American-style expression of Christmas. I wish I could get into it, but honestly, I just want to make really good food, sit on my balcony and ponder my life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a chef, I’m placed in an interesting situation regarding the holidays. There is an assumption that I revel in this moment all year—rubbing my hands together and salivating about all of the business to come my way. But that’s not true for me. Being a food industry professional, all I want to do is shop at open air markets, bask in the glory of seasonal produce, adopt new and creative ways of expressing said produce and share elaborate or modest meals with friends and family. But I am here in Senegal, and not afforded that luxury.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139686\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.Portrait.jpg\" alt=\"Monifa Dayo.\" width=\"600\" height=\"800\" class=\"size-full wp-image-139686\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.Portrait.jpg 600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/12/Monifa.Portrait-160x213.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monifa Dayo. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Monifa Dayo)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What I will do instead to celebrate the holidays, considering COVID-19 restrictions and my geographic location, is this: I will be grateful for all that I am so privileged to have. I, too, live a modest life, yet I maintain two homes on two different continents, I am healthy and I am gainfully employed. My family is all COVID-free, and we are expecting a new addition to the family this New Year. I will buy small gifts for the children in my life here; I can’t help it, and I love them dearly. I will cook something special for myself, maybe lamb or a family favorite, Soupa Kanja (okra soup), with all of the seafood I can find. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My heart is quite heavy as I write, weeping tears of liberated sorrow. Whichever course of holiday action I take, I’m confident it will never resemble the life once experienced without the constraints of social distancing and the geographic distance Africa presents. I will attempt to Facetime with my father and my dear friends. COVID-19 exacerbated the symptoms of the racist society America is founded on, and I’m grateful for such unmasking while acknowledging there is so much more heartache ahead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pandemic has placed a dagger into the heart of the community, causing us to go deeper and forge a new expression of who we are and what honestly matters to us most. May these moments never be in vain.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/139637/what-the-holidays-mean-for-me-a-chef-who-left-oakland-for-senegal","authors":["byline_bayareabites_139637"],"categories":["bayareabites_16558","bayareabites_16627","bayareabites_17082","bayareabites_1763"],"tags":["bayareabites_558","bayareabites_17051","bayareabites_17052","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_17050"],"featImg":"bayareabites_139688","label":"source_bayareabites_139637"},"bayareabites_139388":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_139388","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"139388","score":null,"sort":[1603480682000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"after-a-long-wait-horn-barbecue-opens-saturday-in-old-brown-sugar-kitchen-space","title":"After a Long Wait, Horn Barbecue Opens Saturday in Old Brown Sugar Kitchen Space","publishDate":1603480682,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>The wait is finally over for pit master Matt Horn. After first announcing that he found a permanent home in August 2019 for a brick-and-mortar location, he's finally opening up with ribs, brisket and more on Saturday at 2534 Mandela Parkway in Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Oakland-s-Horn-Barbecue-may-finally-open-this-15640609.php\"> San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, Horn originally intended to open in September, but had to stop because of permitting delays and hurdles. \"Nothing [of] great worth in life comes without struggle,\" said Horn in an email. Horn also faced construction challenges, a pandemic and working with the city's restrictions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139391\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139391\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-bbq-1-800x640.jpg\" alt=\"Selection of meats, hotlinks, brisket and ribs on a metal sheet tray\" width=\"800\" height=\"640\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-bbq-1-800x640.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-bbq-1-1020x816.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-bbq-1-160x128.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-bbq-1-768x614.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-bbq-1.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A selection of meats from Horn Barbecue, including brisket, hotlinks and ribs \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Horn Barbecue)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What started in 2016 at the Tracy Farmers Market transformed quickly into pop-ups that drew crowds of over a thousand. He became a barbecue pop-up legend, serving Texas-inspired brisket and creating a new category of \"West Coast barbecue\" that draws on the Lone Star State's style coupled with inspiration from the Black South. Diners were willing to wait more than four hours for the chance to get some hot links and smoked ribs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139392\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139392\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-sandwich-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Sandwich\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-sandwich-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-sandwich-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-sandwich-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-sandwich-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-sandwich.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sandwiches are a new addition to Horn's menu. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Horn Barbecue)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The menu at the new location will feature some of the pop-up's favorites, like smoked brisket, beef ribs, pulled pork, turkey and spareribs sold by the pound. There will also be some new items, like half and whole quartered chickens, homemade hot links and sandwiches. On a special rotation, Horn is adding a whole hog roasting, along with oxtails and lamb shoulders on Saturdays. Beyond the meats, sides will include pit beans, collards, black-eyed peas, potato salad, slaw, potatoes and corn bread. There will also be desserts like bourbon bread pudding and rum cake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postID=\"bayareabites_132331, bayareabites_112282, bayareabites_137291, bayareabites_13832886\" \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">label=\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\"More Bay Area Food News and Guides\"]\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alameda county's COVID-19 restrictions are currently at the orange tier, meaning that outdoor dining is permitted and indoor dining is allowed at 25% capacity or up to 100 people. Horn Barbecue's interior features custom cowhide bar stools with a central view of the 750-square-foot pit room, which is said to be California's first indoor smoker. The West Oakland spot formerly housed Brown Sugar Kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Horn grew up eating barbecue occasionally on the weekends, and after one bad batch of spare ribs he made for his girlfriend, he was determined to get it right. Since then, he's been called \"the future of barbecue\" from \u003cem>The Chronicle\u003c/em> and made a name for himself as a West Coast pit master.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"After multiple hurdles, the cult pop-up opens its first permanent, brick-and-mortar location.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621631959,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":9,"wordCount":440},"headData":{"title":"After a Long Wait, Horn Barbecue Opens Saturday in Old Brown Sugar Kitchen Space | KQED","description":"After multiple hurdles, the cult pop-up opens its first permanent, brick-and-mortar location.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"139388 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=139388","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/10/23/after-a-long-wait-horn-barbecue-opens-saturday-in-old-brown-sugar-kitchen-space/","disqusTitle":"After a Long Wait, Horn Barbecue Opens Saturday in Old Brown Sugar Kitchen Space","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/139388/after-a-long-wait-horn-barbecue-opens-saturday-in-old-brown-sugar-kitchen-space","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The wait is finally over for pit master Matt Horn. After first announcing that he found a permanent home in August 2019 for a brick-and-mortar location, he's finally opening up with ribs, brisket and more on Saturday at 2534 Mandela Parkway in Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Oakland-s-Horn-Barbecue-may-finally-open-this-15640609.php\"> San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, Horn originally intended to open in September, but had to stop because of permitting delays and hurdles. \"Nothing [of] great worth in life comes without struggle,\" said Horn in an email. Horn also faced construction challenges, a pandemic and working with the city's restrictions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139391\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139391\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-bbq-1-800x640.jpg\" alt=\"Selection of meats, hotlinks, brisket and ribs on a metal sheet tray\" width=\"800\" height=\"640\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-bbq-1-800x640.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-bbq-1-1020x816.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-bbq-1-160x128.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-bbq-1-768x614.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-bbq-1.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A selection of meats from Horn Barbecue, including brisket, hotlinks and ribs \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Horn Barbecue)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>What started in 2016 at the Tracy Farmers Market transformed quickly into pop-ups that drew crowds of over a thousand. He became a barbecue pop-up legend, serving Texas-inspired brisket and creating a new category of \"West Coast barbecue\" that draws on the Lone Star State's style coupled with inspiration from the Black South. Diners were willing to wait more than four hours for the chance to get some hot links and smoked ribs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139392\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139392\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-sandwich-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Sandwich\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-sandwich-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-sandwich-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-sandwich-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-sandwich-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/horn-sandwich.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sandwiches are a new addition to Horn's menu. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Horn Barbecue)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The menu at the new location will feature some of the pop-up's favorites, like smoked brisket, beef ribs, pulled pork, turkey and spareribs sold by the pound. There will also be some new items, like half and whole quartered chickens, homemade hot links and sandwiches. On a special rotation, Horn is adding a whole hog roasting, along with oxtails and lamb shoulders on Saturdays. Beyond the meats, sides will include pit beans, collards, black-eyed peas, potato salad, slaw, potatoes and corn bread. There will also be desserts like bourbon bread pudding and rum cake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_132331, bayareabites_112282, bayareabites_137291, bayareabites_13832886","label":"\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">label=\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\"More Bay Area Food News and Guides\""},"numeric":["\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan","style=\"font-weight:","400\">label=\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan","style=\"font-weight:","400\">\"More","Bay","Area","Food","News","and","Guides\""]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alameda county's COVID-19 restrictions are currently at the orange tier, meaning that outdoor dining is permitted and indoor dining is allowed at 25% capacity or up to 100 people. Horn Barbecue's interior features custom cowhide bar stools with a central view of the 750-square-foot pit room, which is said to be California's first indoor smoker. The West Oakland spot formerly housed Brown Sugar Kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Horn grew up eating barbecue occasionally on the weekends, and after one bad batch of spare ribs he made for his girlfriend, he was determined to get it right. Since then, he's been called \"the future of barbecue\" from \u003cem>The Chronicle\u003c/em> and made a name for himself as a West Coast pit master.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/139388/after-a-long-wait-horn-barbecue-opens-saturday-in-old-brown-sugar-kitchen-space","authors":["11689"],"categories":["bayareabites_16558","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_17082","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_2250","bayareabites_16557","bayareabites_16601","bayareabites_14775","bayareabites_17010","bayareabites_17011","bayareabites_289","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_16860","bayareabites_9998"],"featImg":"bayareabites_139390","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_139121":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_139121","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"139121","score":null,"sort":[1601650822000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"your-guide-to-the-bay-areas-best-noodles","title":"Your Guide to the Bay Area’s Best Noodles","publishDate":1601650822,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>Noodles take many forms: spaetzle, soaking in pho, vermicelli in spring rolls, carbonara, sev and sevai, the list goes on and on. For that reason, we’ve compiled a guide of Bay Area spots to get your noodle on. Whether they are noodle specialists or the place we’ve identified with the best version of that dish in the Bay, this list brings us the comfort of carbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you’re out and about with your favorites, share them with us via the hashtag #kqednoodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a reminder, things are constantly changing during the pandemic. It’s best to call ahead to know what’s available for takeout, pickup or dining-in options. But don’t hold back: Life is about exploring the pasta-bilities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c!-- iframe plugin v.4.3 wordpress.org/plugins/iframe/ -->\u003cbr>\n\u003ciframe src=\"https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/1/embed?mid=1lfoHy_ggchEPgcygxeTUIRNHpDHcE-1E\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" scrolling=\"yes\" class=\"iframe-class\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://annachikadaiusa.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Annachikada\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139129\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139129\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-800x515.jpg\" alt=\"Closeup Image of Kerala Rice Flour Breakfast\" width=\"800\" height=\"515\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-800x515.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-1020x656.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-160x103.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-768x494.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-1536x988.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-2048x1318.jpg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-1920x1235.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Idiyappam \u003ccite>(iStock)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Idiyappam\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This South Bay Tamilian restaurant is the closest I’ve been able to get to my athai’s (Tamil for aunt) cooking. Though this place is best known for its banana leaf meals, their idiyappam—a rice noodle dish that’s familiar in Kerala, Tamil Nadu and parts of Sri Lanka—brings back the nostalgia of watching her crank a metal contraption. Dough pressed through the machine formed noodles that were later steamed. Often, Tamilian and South Indian food is conflated strictly to dosa and idli, and it’s finding places like this in the Bay that push people’s understanding past that narrow definition. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for takeout Monday through Friday 11:30am–10pm; Saturday 11:30am–10pm; Sunday 11:30am–10pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>80 W El Camino Real, Mountain View\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>650-282-5737\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.flourandwater.com/\">\u003cb>Flour + Water\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CE7WDu1sLTp/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Porchetta triangoli\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the heart of the Mission, Flour + Water has always been known for its pasta, wood-fired pizza and other Italian dishes. The pastas are made in-house and change seasonally, but each one is unique and a treat to take home and eat. On my latest visit, the porchetta triangoli was particularly interesting with in-season sweet mission figs, meaty roasted eggplant and fresh zippy mint. \u003ci>—U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for outdoor dining, pickup or delivery\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2401 Harrison St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-826-7000\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.greatchinaberkeley.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Great China\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BStlTYHjBbr/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Ginger scallion Dungeness crab with hand-pulled noodles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside tag=\"noodles2020\" label=\"More Noodles.\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During Dungeness crab season, the ginger scallion sauce drips from the crab onto the noodles to create a delightfully messy eating experience. You’ll need shamelessness (if eating in front of others) and plenty of wet naps. Aside from the crab noodles, the Zha Jiang Mien is also worth ordering. This Berkeley restaurant has been specializing in Northern Chinese cuisine since 1985. They also have a hefty, award-winning beer and wine collection, some of which is offered to-go. \u003ci>—U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for pickup and delivery Wednesday through Monday 11:30am–2:30pm; 5–8:30pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2190 Bancroft Way, Berkeley\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>510-843-7996\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://hkeo.us/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Hong Kong East Ocean Seafood Restaurant\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BvpNX4AlrWw/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Pan-fried crispy noodles and braised soft noodles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This gem of a place in Emeryville is a bit of a trek, but if you who love noodles and seafood, it’s worth it. The expansive restaurant was packed to the brim for dim sum brunch and had some of the best views in the pre-pandemic era. While the dining room is currently closed, their noodle dishes still travel well for takeout. \u003ci>–U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for takeout Monday through Sunday 11am–6pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3199 Powell St., Emeryville\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>510-655-3388\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.izaramen.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Iza Ramen\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B-vW6GTBCIY/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Spicy Iza Ramen with an extra egg and butter corn\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to ramen, it’s hard to find one dish that transports and tastes as good in-restaurant as it does assembled at home, but Iza Ramen succeeds where others fail. The big, comforting bowl of fat-rich broth with noodles and that jammy egg is everything we need right now. \u003ci>—U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for takeout\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>237 Fillmore St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-926-8173\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Cantonese-Restaurant/King-Of-Noodles-145673765464356/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">King of Noodles\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CEPN5yrHVOR/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Lamb noodles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time I went to this hole-in-the-wall was with my food best friend about a year after moving to San Francisco. Plates and plates of noodles kept arriving at our table: cilantro bean noodles; noodles in soup; and the epitome of joy, lamb noodles. It’s all about that al dente chew and the beautiful mess that comes from eating the saucy medium-cooked lamb with a pleasantly spicy broth that’s not overwhelming and builds with every bite. It’s also a generous order, so don’t feel bad if you have to share. This Irving Street spot’s name speaks for itself. \u003ci>—U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for takeout or delivery Thursday through Sunday 12–3pm, 5–8:30pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1639 Irving St., San Francisco\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">415-56608318\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://kagawayaudon.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Kagawa-Ya Udon\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CFxOVBRBY3q/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here, it’s all about the celebration of udon noodles, plump and perfect for slurping. The husband and wife duo started the restaurant as way to show that fast food can also mean good food. Their udon is aged for two days before being formed into noodles. \u003ci>—U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Available for takeout and delivery Monday through Friday 11am–2pm and 5-8pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1455 Market St., Suite 3A, San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-703-0995\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.lanzhouhandpullednoodle.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Lanzhou Hand Pulled Noodles\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CCOqNvAFqGJ/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Focusing on dishes from the Gansu Province’s capital Lan Zhou, this restaurant is best known for its beef noodles, served with slices of turnip and seasoned with a numbing chili peppercorn sauce. Beyond that, hand-pulled noodles are on full display in a variety of forms: cold, spicy, in soup and more. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for takeout and delivery Wednesday through Monday 11am–3pm, 5-9pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1818 Milmont Dr., Milpitas\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>669-284-3959\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Lime Tree SF\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BskAIJqHxCm/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Laksa or Singapore noodles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lime Tree is one of a handful of Malaysian restaurants in the city. As far as the laksa goes, it’s one of the better versions in the city, where the complexity of the broth really comes through. Here, the broth takes center stage with the costar being the noodles, puffed tofu and seafood. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for takeout\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>450 Irving St. A, and 836 Clement St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-665-1415; 415-831-8811\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://www.marcellaslasagneria.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Marcella’s\u003c/b> \u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/Bae4WEQgE5r/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Classic bolognese lasagna\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lasagna is in fact a noodle. That’s not a worthwhile debate. A better concern is where to get it when you can’t manage to make it at home. Marcella’s is the answer. The Dogpatch lasagneria is a family-owned operation that churns out lasagnas in seven different options including the classic bolognese, abruzzo featuring homemade sausages and a pancetta-infused bianca. Besides those offerings, Marcella’s also has pastas, also homemade, and Italian sandwiches all available to go. The cozy restaurant is used to operating on a takeout basis so they’re fit to adapt under the pandemic’s restrictions. \u003ci>—R.G.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for pickup Tuesday through Saturday, 10:00am–2:30pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1099 Tennessee St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-920-2225\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://shandongoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Shan Dong\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139142\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139142\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-800x534.jpeg\" alt=\"noodles\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-800x534.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-1020x681.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-768x513.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-1536x1025.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1.jpeg 1600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shan Dong\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Hand-pulled noodles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are many ways to measure a noodle’s quality. Al dente signifies a desired resistance to teeth that a just-cooked-right pasta presents. The homemade hand-pulled noodles at Shan Dong make me wonder about another measure: the time it takes my teeth to meet through a noodle. It’s a question of both bounce and resistance, and Shan Dong’s noodles hold that balance deliciously. The hand-pulled wonders are available in a variety of dishes, including the beloved chow mein, a sesame paste glazed variety and the Oakland Chinatown staple. There are noodle dishes that have you picking around the starch looking for the meat, the veggies or the shrimp but that won’t be the case at Shan Dong. \u003cem>—R.G.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for takeout during lunch and dinner everyday except Monday\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>328 10th St. #101, Oakland\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>510-839-2299\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://phoaosen.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Pho Aosen\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B_Vw_MYhxQb/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Traditional pho or pho ga\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fall has arrived and winter is to follow which makes a warm bowl of pho the most appealing meal any time of the day. Pho Aosen is the reliable pair of restaurants in Albany and Oakland that serve up pho alongside bun and other Vietnamese favorites. Aosen’s pho selection is deep, with over 10 different possibilities of steak, brisket and tendons—and three combinations that feature tripe. For chicken soup lovers, there’s pho ga, and vegetarians are similarly accommodated. Pre-pandemic, Aosen’s Albany location was especially worth visiting—a former Sizzler converted into a family-friendly and plant-filled eatery. For now, takeout will have to do. \u003ci>—R.G.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open all day except Wednesday\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>665 San Pablo Ave., Albany and 1139 E 12th St., Oakland\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>510-679-5000; 510-835-5588\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://sobaichioakland.com/\">Soba Ichi\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CDW9Z1VhSal/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In West Oakland, Koichi Ishii makes soba by hand, milling the buckwheat, rolling out the dough and cutting the noodles with special tools daily. He studied the art of soba-making for years in his hometown of Yamagata and he is one of a very small handful of chefs in the United States who have studied and make soba by hand. The menu is small, but it’s the perfect ode to the soba noodle. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Noodles available for takeout Thursday through Sunday 12–3pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2311A Magnolia St., West Oakland\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>510-465-1969\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.spqrsf.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">SPQR\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CDej42rJ793/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to pasta, SPQR dedicates itself to contemporary Italian cuisine. Michelin-starred chef Matthew Accarrino uses seasonal ingredients to accompany noodles that bring comfort. In the more relaxed pandemic variation of the restaurant, the al a carte menu is available for takeout, indoor and outdoor dining. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for indoor and outdoor dining for dinner daily 5-8pm; Saturday and Sunday lunch 1-3pm; takeout Wednesday through Sunday 3-8pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1911 Fillmore St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-771-7779\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.suppenkuche.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Suppenkuche\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Jagerschnitzel or the Käsepätzle\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spätzle is a fresh egg pasta popular in Germany, Switzerland and Hungary. At Suppenkuche, there are three versions to try. The Jagerschnitzel is served with a juicy pork loin. The Saurbraten comes with red cabbage and cranberry sauce. And the Käsepätzle is a vegetarian-friendly version served with an onion butter sauce. The gruyere envelopes the beautifully light noodles. The restaurant has been around since 1993 from Fabrizio Wiest and Thomas Klausmann, and it’s modeled after a Bavarian beer hall, reminiscent of Wiest’s childhood. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for takeout and delivery Tuesday through Friday, 4:30–8:30pm; Saturday 12-8:30pm; Sunday 1-7pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>525 Laguna St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-252-9289\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/universal-bakery-san-francisco\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Universal Bakery\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BMSgsKgBc7i/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order:\u003c/strong> Chow mein sandwich\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While this Guatemalan bakery is best known for its empanadas, pastries and bread, the chow mein sandwich is an ode to all carbs. Chow mein came to Guatemala by way of Chinese immigrants who arrived for work opportunities. And the chow mein sandwich is a piece of history that \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/06/24/732028721/how-the-chow-mein-sandwich-claimed-a-small-slice-of-new-england-history\">tells a story\u003c/a> of patterns of migration through both Guatemala and the United States. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for takeout daily 6am–7:30pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3458 Mission St., San Francisco and 2803 Geneva Ave., Daly City\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-821-4871\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yukolthai.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Yukol Place\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BBv_NQEH5lq/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Pork pad see ew\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are many versions of pad see ew all around the Bay Area, but this is a personal favorite. Back in the pre-coronavirus times, I once took this and some green curry along with me for a red eye dinner. Those were the days. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for takeout daily 11:30am–3pm and 5–10pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2380 Lombard St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-922-1599\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Taste the noodles from all over the world right here in the Bay Area. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621632454,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":true,"iframeSrcs":["https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/1/embed"],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":37,"wordCount":2117},"headData":{"title":"Your Guide to the Bay Area’s Best Noodles | KQED","description":"Taste the noodles from all over the world right here in the Bay Area. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"139121 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=139121","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/10/02/your-guide-to-the-bay-areas-best-noodles/","disqusTitle":"Your Guide to the Bay Area’s Best Noodles","source":"KQED Noodle Week","sourceUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/noodles","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/139121/your-guide-to-the-bay-areas-best-noodles","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Noodles take many forms: spaetzle, soaking in pho, vermicelli in spring rolls, carbonara, sev and sevai, the list goes on and on. For that reason, we’ve compiled a guide of Bay Area spots to get your noodle on. Whether they are noodle specialists or the place we’ve identified with the best version of that dish in the Bay, this list brings us the comfort of carbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you’re out and about with your favorites, share them with us via the hashtag #kqednoodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a reminder, things are constantly changing during the pandemic. It’s best to call ahead to know what’s available for takeout, pickup or dining-in options. But don’t hold back: Life is about exploring the pasta-bilities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c!-- iframe plugin v.4.3 wordpress.org/plugins/iframe/ -->\u003cbr>\n\u003ciframe src=\"https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/1/embed?mid=1lfoHy_ggchEPgcygxeTUIRNHpDHcE-1E\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" scrolling=\"yes\" class=\"iframe-class\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://annachikadaiusa.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Annachikada\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139129\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139129\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-800x515.jpg\" alt=\"Closeup Image of Kerala Rice Flour Breakfast\" width=\"800\" height=\"515\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-800x515.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-1020x656.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-160x103.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-768x494.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-1536x988.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-2048x1318.jpg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-1920x1235.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Idiyappam \u003ccite>(iStock)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Idiyappam\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This South Bay Tamilian restaurant is the closest I’ve been able to get to my athai’s (Tamil for aunt) cooking. Though this place is best known for its banana leaf meals, their idiyappam—a rice noodle dish that’s familiar in Kerala, Tamil Nadu and parts of Sri Lanka—brings back the nostalgia of watching her crank a metal contraption. Dough pressed through the machine formed noodles that were later steamed. Often, Tamilian and South Indian food is conflated strictly to dosa and idli, and it’s finding places like this in the Bay that push people’s understanding past that narrow definition. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for takeout Monday through Friday 11:30am–10pm; Saturday 11:30am–10pm; Sunday 11:30am–10pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>80 W El Camino Real, Mountain View\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>650-282-5737\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.flourandwater.com/\">\u003cb>Flour + Water\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"CE7WDu1sLTp"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Porchetta triangoli\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the heart of the Mission, Flour + Water has always been known for its pasta, wood-fired pizza and other Italian dishes. The pastas are made in-house and change seasonally, but each one is unique and a treat to take home and eat. On my latest visit, the porchetta triangoli was particularly interesting with in-season sweet mission figs, meaty roasted eggplant and fresh zippy mint. \u003ci>—U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for outdoor dining, pickup or delivery\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2401 Harrison St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-826-7000\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.greatchinaberkeley.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Great China\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"BStlTYHjBbr"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Ginger scallion Dungeness crab with hand-pulled noodles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"noodles2020","label":"More Noodles. "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During Dungeness crab season, the ginger scallion sauce drips from the crab onto the noodles to create a delightfully messy eating experience. You’ll need shamelessness (if eating in front of others) and plenty of wet naps. Aside from the crab noodles, the Zha Jiang Mien is also worth ordering. This Berkeley restaurant has been specializing in Northern Chinese cuisine since 1985. They also have a hefty, award-winning beer and wine collection, some of which is offered to-go. \u003ci>—U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for pickup and delivery Wednesday through Monday 11:30am–2:30pm; 5–8:30pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2190 Bancroft Way, Berkeley\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>510-843-7996\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://hkeo.us/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Hong Kong East Ocean Seafood Restaurant\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"BvpNX4AlrWw"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Pan-fried crispy noodles and braised soft noodles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This gem of a place in Emeryville is a bit of a trek, but if you who love noodles and seafood, it’s worth it. The expansive restaurant was packed to the brim for dim sum brunch and had some of the best views in the pre-pandemic era. While the dining room is currently closed, their noodle dishes still travel well for takeout. \u003ci>–U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for takeout Monday through Sunday 11am–6pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3199 Powell St., Emeryville\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>510-655-3388\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.izaramen.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Iza Ramen\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B-vW6GTBCIY"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Spicy Iza Ramen with an extra egg and butter corn\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to ramen, it’s hard to find one dish that transports and tastes as good in-restaurant as it does assembled at home, but Iza Ramen succeeds where others fail. The big, comforting bowl of fat-rich broth with noodles and that jammy egg is everything we need right now. \u003ci>—U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for takeout\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>237 Fillmore St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-926-8173\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Cantonese-Restaurant/King-Of-Noodles-145673765464356/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">King of Noodles\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"CEPN5yrHVOR"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Lamb noodles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time I went to this hole-in-the-wall was with my food best friend about a year after moving to San Francisco. Plates and plates of noodles kept arriving at our table: cilantro bean noodles; noodles in soup; and the epitome of joy, lamb noodles. It’s all about that al dente chew and the beautiful mess that comes from eating the saucy medium-cooked lamb with a pleasantly spicy broth that’s not overwhelming and builds with every bite. It’s also a generous order, so don’t feel bad if you have to share. This Irving Street spot’s name speaks for itself. \u003ci>—U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for takeout or delivery Thursday through Sunday 12–3pm, 5–8:30pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1639 Irving St., San Francisco\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">415-56608318\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://kagawayaudon.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Kagawa-Ya Udon\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"CFxOVBRBY3q"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Here, it’s all about the celebration of udon noodles, plump and perfect for slurping. The husband and wife duo started the restaurant as way to show that fast food can also mean good food. Their udon is aged for two days before being formed into noodles. \u003ci>—U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Available for takeout and delivery Monday through Friday 11am–2pm and 5-8pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1455 Market St., Suite 3A, San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-703-0995\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.lanzhouhandpullednoodle.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Lanzhou Hand Pulled Noodles\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"CCOqNvAFqGJ"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Focusing on dishes from the Gansu Province’s capital Lan Zhou, this restaurant is best known for its beef noodles, served with slices of turnip and seasoned with a numbing chili peppercorn sauce. Beyond that, hand-pulled noodles are on full display in a variety of forms: cold, spicy, in soup and more. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for takeout and delivery Wednesday through Monday 11am–3pm, 5-9pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1818 Milmont Dr., Milpitas\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>669-284-3959\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Lime Tree SF\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"BskAIJqHxCm"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Laksa or Singapore noodles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lime Tree is one of a handful of Malaysian restaurants in the city. As far as the laksa goes, it’s one of the better versions in the city, where the complexity of the broth really comes through. Here, the broth takes center stage with the costar being the noodles, puffed tofu and seafood. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for takeout\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>450 Irving St. A, and 836 Clement St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-665-1415; 415-831-8811\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://www.marcellaslasagneria.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Marcella’s\u003c/b> \u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"Bae4WEQgE5r"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Classic bolognese lasagna\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lasagna is in fact a noodle. That’s not a worthwhile debate. A better concern is where to get it when you can’t manage to make it at home. Marcella’s is the answer. The Dogpatch lasagneria is a family-owned operation that churns out lasagnas in seven different options including the classic bolognese, abruzzo featuring homemade sausages and a pancetta-infused bianca. Besides those offerings, Marcella’s also has pastas, also homemade, and Italian sandwiches all available to go. The cozy restaurant is used to operating on a takeout basis so they’re fit to adapt under the pandemic’s restrictions. \u003ci>—R.G.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for pickup Tuesday through Saturday, 10:00am–2:30pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1099 Tennessee St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-920-2225\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://shandongoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Shan Dong\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139142\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139142\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-800x534.jpeg\" alt=\"noodles\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-800x534.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-1020x681.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-768x513.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-1536x1025.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1.jpeg 1600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shan Dong\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Hand-pulled noodles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are many ways to measure a noodle’s quality. Al dente signifies a desired resistance to teeth that a just-cooked-right pasta presents. The homemade hand-pulled noodles at Shan Dong make me wonder about another measure: the time it takes my teeth to meet through a noodle. It’s a question of both bounce and resistance, and Shan Dong’s noodles hold that balance deliciously. The hand-pulled wonders are available in a variety of dishes, including the beloved chow mein, a sesame paste glazed variety and the Oakland Chinatown staple. There are noodle dishes that have you picking around the starch looking for the meat, the veggies or the shrimp but that won’t be the case at Shan Dong. \u003cem>—R.G.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for takeout during lunch and dinner everyday except Monday\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>328 10th St. #101, Oakland\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>510-839-2299\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://phoaosen.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Pho Aosen\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B_Vw_MYhxQb"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Traditional pho or pho ga\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fall has arrived and winter is to follow which makes a warm bowl of pho the most appealing meal any time of the day. Pho Aosen is the reliable pair of restaurants in Albany and Oakland that serve up pho alongside bun and other Vietnamese favorites. Aosen’s pho selection is deep, with over 10 different possibilities of steak, brisket and tendons—and three combinations that feature tripe. For chicken soup lovers, there’s pho ga, and vegetarians are similarly accommodated. Pre-pandemic, Aosen’s Albany location was especially worth visiting—a former Sizzler converted into a family-friendly and plant-filled eatery. For now, takeout will have to do. \u003ci>—R.G.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open all day except Wednesday\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>665 San Pablo Ave., Albany and 1139 E 12th St., Oakland\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>510-679-5000; 510-835-5588\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://sobaichioakland.com/\">Soba Ichi\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"CDW9Z1VhSal"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In West Oakland, Koichi Ishii makes soba by hand, milling the buckwheat, rolling out the dough and cutting the noodles with special tools daily. He studied the art of soba-making for years in his hometown of Yamagata and he is one of a very small handful of chefs in the United States who have studied and make soba by hand. The menu is small, but it’s the perfect ode to the soba noodle. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Noodles available for takeout Thursday through Sunday 12–3pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2311A Magnolia St., West Oakland\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>510-465-1969\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.spqrsf.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">SPQR\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"CDej42rJ793"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When it comes to pasta, SPQR dedicates itself to contemporary Italian cuisine. Michelin-starred chef Matthew Accarrino uses seasonal ingredients to accompany noodles that bring comfort. In the more relaxed pandemic variation of the restaurant, the al a carte menu is available for takeout, indoor and outdoor dining. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for indoor and outdoor dining for dinner daily 5-8pm; Saturday and Sunday lunch 1-3pm; takeout Wednesday through Sunday 3-8pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1911 Fillmore St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-771-7779\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.suppenkuche.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Suppenkuche\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Jagerschnitzel or the Käsepätzle\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spätzle is a fresh egg pasta popular in Germany, Switzerland and Hungary. At Suppenkuche, there are three versions to try. The Jagerschnitzel is served with a juicy pork loin. The Saurbraten comes with red cabbage and cranberry sauce. And the Käsepätzle is a vegetarian-friendly version served with an onion butter sauce. The gruyere envelopes the beautifully light noodles. The restaurant has been around since 1993 from Fabrizio Wiest and Thomas Klausmann, and it’s modeled after a Bavarian beer hall, reminiscent of Wiest’s childhood. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for takeout and delivery Tuesday through Friday, 4:30–8:30pm; Saturday 12-8:30pm; Sunday 1-7pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>525 Laguna St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-252-9289\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/universal-bakery-san-francisco\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Universal Bakery\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"BMSgsKgBc7i"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order:\u003c/strong> Chow mein sandwich\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While this Guatemalan bakery is best known for its empanadas, pastries and bread, the chow mein sandwich is an ode to all carbs. Chow mein came to Guatemala by way of Chinese immigrants who arrived for work opportunities. And the chow mein sandwich is a piece of history that \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/06/24/732028721/how-the-chow-mein-sandwich-claimed-a-small-slice-of-new-england-history\">tells a story\u003c/a> of patterns of migration through both Guatemala and the United States. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for takeout daily 6am–7:30pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3458 Mission St., San Francisco and 2803 Geneva Ave., Daly City\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-821-4871\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yukolthai.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Yukol Place\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"BBv_NQEH5lq"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Pork pad see ew\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are many versions of pad see ew all around the Bay Area, but this is a personal favorite. Back in the pre-coronavirus times, I once took this and some green curry along with me for a red eye dinner. Those were the days. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for takeout daily 11:30am–3pm and 5–10pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2380 Lombard St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-922-1599\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/139121/your-guide-to-the-bay-areas-best-noodles","authors":["11689","11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_16558","bayareabites_17082"],"tags":["bayareabites_9037","bayareabites_16974","bayareabites_14773","bayareabites_16975","bayareabites_16557","bayareabites_16972","bayareabites_13220","bayareabites_16971","bayareabites_377","bayareabites_16973","bayareabites_16940","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_14745","bayareabites_14752","bayareabites_14746"],"featImg":"bayareabites_139122","label":"source_bayareabites_139121"},"bayareabites_138778":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_138778","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"138778","score":null,"sort":[1596647284000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"creators-popular-sm-vegan-pop-up-find-a-permanent-home","title":"Creators of Popular S+M Vegan Pop-Up Find a Permanent Home","publishDate":1596647284,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>After some years of looking for a permanent space, Lion Dance Cafe, the brick-and-mortar concept from C-Y Marie Chia and Shane Stanbridge has finally found a home in downtown Oakland. Taking over the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/138052/covid-related-bay-area-restaurant-permanent-closures-in-june-and-july-so-far\">former Liba Falafel\u003c/a> space on 17th Street, Chia and Stanbridge have \u003ca href=\"https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/cychia/lion-dance-cafe-by-s-m-vegan\">kicked off a fundraiser\u003c/a> for a final push toward opening their vegan Singaporean restaurant, set to open for service in September.\u003cbr>\n[aside tag=\"foodnews\" label=\"More Food News.\"]\u003cbr>\nFor the past few years, the duo has been popping up at different locations across the Bay Area as \u003ca href=\"https://smvegans.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">S+M Vegan\u003c/a>, \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> including most recently at Eli’s Mile High Club in Oakland\u003c/span>. When the bar and eatery shut its doors after shelter-in-place orders in March, Chia and Stanbridge’s business came to a halt as well. “We realized that we were going to have to find a different solution for our income [because] at the same time, catering was getting cancelled left and right,” Chia explained adding that catering orders made up a majority of their revenue. “The pop-ups were definitely significant but they were more test menu items, [ways to] get the word out, connect with people but catering was the bread and butter.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138773\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138773\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon-800x1000.jpeg\" alt=\"S+M Vegan's take on Singapore beehoon with vegetables and fresh chili sambal.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1000\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon-800x1000.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon-1020x1275.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon-160x200.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon-768x960.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon.jpeg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">S+M Vegan's take on Singapore beehoon with vegetables and fresh chili sambal. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Lion Dance Cafe)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The duo found a temporary kitchen and outpost at Tacos Oscar, Oscar Michel and Jake Weiss’ efficient storage container operation in Oakland. While Michel and Weiss sorted out their own restaurant’s future in the wake of the pandemic, S+M took it over from late March through late May for a take-out menu that customers pre-ordered for pick-up and delivery. “[The pre-order model] was out of concern for our customer's safety. We don't want lines to form in front and this way,” said Chia. Despite the pandemic, S+M found great success. “The last day, we sold out of 400 items in under 8 minutes. That's when we realized we can really keep doing this if only we had our own space with more room to safely hire people,” she added.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At their new location, Chia and Stanbridge are joined by a third partner, Rachel Metcalf. The team was able to secure the lease on the restaurant space by using their savings and are turning to Kickstarter to fill the rest of the gaps. The new space, which Chia describes as turnkey and not in need of major work, is on track for a September opening though permits and statewide orders on the pandemic will play a role. Chia hopes the new space means more crowd favorites like their beloved shaobing sandwiches, laksas and new items on the menu for customers who’ve stuck with the pop-up as it hopped around town. “There's so many things we want to show people,” she said. “We're hoping to eventually apply for a beer and wine license and do sambal micheladas.” By this time next year, Chia hopes to add an ice machine to make desserts from her childhood, like ice kachang and burbur cha cha.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Lion Dance Cafe is taking up the over the former Liba Falafel space on 17th Street in Oakland. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621633678,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":5,"wordCount":547},"headData":{"title":"Creators of Popular S+M Vegan Pop-Up Find a Permanent Home | KQED","description":"Lion Dance Cafe is taking up the over the former Liba Falafel space on 17th Street in Oakland. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"138778 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=138778","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/08/05/creators-popular-sm-vegan-pop-up-find-a-permanent-home/","disqusTitle":"Creators of Popular S+M Vegan Pop-Up Find a Permanent Home","path":"/bayareabites/138778/creators-popular-sm-vegan-pop-up-find-a-permanent-home","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>After some years of looking for a permanent space, Lion Dance Cafe, the brick-and-mortar concept from C-Y Marie Chia and Shane Stanbridge has finally found a home in downtown Oakland. Taking over the \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/138052/covid-related-bay-area-restaurant-permanent-closures-in-june-and-july-so-far\">former Liba Falafel\u003c/a> space on 17th Street, Chia and Stanbridge have \u003ca href=\"https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/cychia/lion-dance-cafe-by-s-m-vegan\">kicked off a fundraiser\u003c/a> for a final push toward opening their vegan Singaporean restaurant, set to open for service in September.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"foodnews","label":"More Food News. "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nFor the past few years, the duo has been popping up at different locations across the Bay Area as \u003ca href=\"https://smvegans.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">S+M Vegan\u003c/a>, \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> including most recently at Eli’s Mile High Club in Oakland\u003c/span>. When the bar and eatery shut its doors after shelter-in-place orders in March, Chia and Stanbridge’s business came to a halt as well. “We realized that we were going to have to find a different solution for our income [because] at the same time, catering was getting cancelled left and right,” Chia explained adding that catering orders made up a majority of their revenue. “The pop-ups were definitely significant but they were more test menu items, [ways to] get the word out, connect with people but catering was the bread and butter.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138773\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138773\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon-800x1000.jpeg\" alt=\"S+M Vegan's take on Singapore beehoon with vegetables and fresh chili sambal.\" width=\"800\" height=\"1000\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon-800x1000.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon-1020x1275.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon-160x200.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon-768x960.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/08/liondancecafebeehoon.jpeg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">S+M Vegan's take on Singapore beehoon with vegetables and fresh chili sambal. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Lion Dance Cafe)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The duo found a temporary kitchen and outpost at Tacos Oscar, Oscar Michel and Jake Weiss’ efficient storage container operation in Oakland. While Michel and Weiss sorted out their own restaurant’s future in the wake of the pandemic, S+M took it over from late March through late May for a take-out menu that customers pre-ordered for pick-up and delivery. “[The pre-order model] was out of concern for our customer's safety. We don't want lines to form in front and this way,” said Chia. Despite the pandemic, S+M found great success. “The last day, we sold out of 400 items in under 8 minutes. That's when we realized we can really keep doing this if only we had our own space with more room to safely hire people,” she added.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At their new location, Chia and Stanbridge are joined by a third partner, Rachel Metcalf. The team was able to secure the lease on the restaurant space by using their savings and are turning to Kickstarter to fill the rest of the gaps. The new space, which Chia describes as turnkey and not in need of major work, is on track for a September opening though permits and statewide orders on the pandemic will play a role. Chia hopes the new space means more crowd favorites like their beloved shaobing sandwiches, laksas and new items on the menu for customers who’ve stuck with the pop-up as it hopped around town. “There's so many things we want to show people,” she said. “We're hoping to eventually apply for a beer and wine license and do sambal micheladas.” By this time next year, Chia hopes to add an ice machine to make desserts from her childhood, like ice kachang and burbur cha cha.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/138778/creators-popular-sm-vegan-pop-up-find-a-permanent-home","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_17082"],"tags":["bayareabites_16909","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_16908","bayareabites_14042","bayareabites_16907","bayareabites_1871"],"featImg":"bayareabites_138772","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_136360":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_136360","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"136360","score":null,"sort":[1582846789000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"chef-tanya-hollands-town-fare-raises-the-oakland-museums-culinary-profile","title":"Chef Tanya Holland's Town Fare Raises the Oakland Museum's Culinary Profile","publishDate":1582846789,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Starting this summer at the \u003ca href=\"https://museumca.org/\">Oakland Museum of California,\u003c/a> Tanya Holland will head a new cafe serving up California soul food. Town Fare at OMCA will be the second post of the chef and former \u003cem>Top Chef\u003c/em> contestant, whose celebrated restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://www.brownsugarkitchen.com/\">Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/a>, recently relocated to Broadway near Grand Avenue. (The San Francisco Ferry Building location of Brown Sugar Kitchen closed last month.)\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Unpretentious and delicious” is how Holland describes the upcoming menu at Town Fare, which will open in August after OMCA undergoes a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13865204/oakland-museum-of-california-to-undergo-20m-renovation-to-exterior-courtyard\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">$20 million renovation\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. As part of the remodel, led by Oakland's \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11776572/two-bay-area-residents-named-2019-macarthur-genius-grant-winners\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Hood Designs\u003c/a> and San Francisco's Mark Cavagnero Associates, the museum’s garden and cafe will be accessible to the public without an admission ticket. In addition to breakfast, lunch and dinner, Town Fare is expected to stay open late for the museum’s weekly Friday Night at OMCA programs. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Holland explains over the phone that she’s inspired by recent conversations around agriculture’s role in global change. As such, the menu at Town Fare will be vegetable-forward (though not strictly vegetarian) and consider alternative protein sources. “\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The more operations I have, the more purchasing power I have, the more influence I can have,” Holland says of her role in fighting climate change as a restaurateur.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136367\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-136367\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Interior-of-Cafe-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"The Oakland Museum of California's new cafe and courtyard, set to open in August, will be be accessible to the public. \" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Interior-of-Cafe-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Interior-of-Cafe-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Interior-of-Cafe-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Interior-of-Cafe-1020x574.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Oakland Museum of California's new cafe and courtyard will be be accessible to the public. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of OMCA)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The vegetable-centered menu will also allow the chef to exercise some creative freedom. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I have a huge repertoire of cooking that I've not really been able to use because of the concept of Brown Sugar Kitchen,” says the French-trained chef, adding that she expects to collaborate with the museum and other chefs on special menus. “I really want to use this platform to embrace that, and do some pop ups with colleagues, and collaborate with the museum when they have special exhibits.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_125020,bayareabites_122533,bayareabites_123732,bayareabites_123715,bayareabites_123707 ' label='All Things Tanya Holland']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Holland, a self-described architecture buff who carefully considers the artwork at her restaurants, says she’s excited to combine those passions at Town Fare. “I think of cooking as an art form, but I have not had the privilege to, at least in my mind, to fully just focus on it as an art form because I've been busy running a business and trying to raise money and get access to everything,” Holland explains. “[With] the way now that the Brown Sugar Kitchen in Uptown is starting too stabilize, and being able to run without me, this venue will give me a chance to get back to Tanya the creative a little bit more, which is exciting.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The museum’s former cafe, Blue Oak Cafe, is currently closed. Construction is set to begin early next month and, in the interim, a lunch-only pop-up from chef Dionne Knox’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.zellassoulfulkitchen.com/\">Zella’s Soulful Kitchen\u003c/a> will take over the first floor lobby.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The Brown Sugar Kitchen chef's vegetable-forward cafe promises creative collaborations and unpretentious fare.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1582846789,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":9,"wordCount":520},"headData":{"title":"Chef Tanya Holland's Town Fare Raises the Oakland Museum's Culinary Profile | KQED","description":"The Brown Sugar Kitchen chef's vegetable-forward cafe promises creative collaborations and unpretentious fare.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"136360 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=136360","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/02/27/chef-tanya-hollands-town-fare-raises-the-oakland-museums-culinary-profile/","disqusTitle":"Chef Tanya Holland's Town Fare Raises the Oakland Museum's Culinary Profile","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/136360/chef-tanya-hollands-town-fare-raises-the-oakland-museums-culinary-profile","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Starting this summer at the \u003ca href=\"https://museumca.org/\">Oakland Museum of California,\u003c/a> Tanya Holland will head a new cafe serving up California soul food. Town Fare at OMCA will be the second post of the chef and former \u003cem>Top Chef\u003c/em> contestant, whose celebrated restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://www.brownsugarkitchen.com/\">Brown Sugar Kitchen\u003c/a>, recently relocated to Broadway near Grand Avenue. (The San Francisco Ferry Building location of Brown Sugar Kitchen closed last month.)\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Unpretentious and delicious” is how Holland describes the upcoming menu at Town Fare, which will open in August after OMCA undergoes a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13865204/oakland-museum-of-california-to-undergo-20m-renovation-to-exterior-courtyard\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">$20 million renovation\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. As part of the remodel, led by Oakland's \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11776572/two-bay-area-residents-named-2019-macarthur-genius-grant-winners\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Hood Designs\u003c/a> and San Francisco's Mark Cavagnero Associates, the museum’s garden and cafe will be accessible to the public without an admission ticket. In addition to breakfast, lunch and dinner, Town Fare is expected to stay open late for the museum’s weekly Friday Night at OMCA programs. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Holland explains over the phone that she’s inspired by recent conversations around agriculture’s role in global change. As such, the menu at Town Fare will be vegetable-forward (though not strictly vegetarian) and consider alternative protein sources. “\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The more operations I have, the more purchasing power I have, the more influence I can have,” Holland says of her role in fighting climate change as a restaurateur.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136367\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-136367\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Interior-of-Cafe-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"The Oakland Museum of California's new cafe and courtyard, set to open in August, will be be accessible to the public. \" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Interior-of-Cafe-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Interior-of-Cafe-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Interior-of-Cafe-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/02/Interior-of-Cafe-1020x574.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Oakland Museum of California's new cafe and courtyard will be be accessible to the public. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of OMCA)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The vegetable-centered menu will also allow the chef to exercise some creative freedom. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I have a huge repertoire of cooking that I've not really been able to use because of the concept of Brown Sugar Kitchen,” says the French-trained chef, adding that she expects to collaborate with the museum and other chefs on special menus. “I really want to use this platform to embrace that, and do some pop ups with colleagues, and collaborate with the museum when they have special exhibits.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_125020,bayareabites_122533,bayareabites_123732,bayareabites_123715,bayareabites_123707 ","label":"All Things Tanya Holland "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Holland, a self-described architecture buff who carefully considers the artwork at her restaurants, says she’s excited to combine those passions at Town Fare. “I think of cooking as an art form, but I have not had the privilege to, at least in my mind, to fully just focus on it as an art form because I've been busy running a business and trying to raise money and get access to everything,” Holland explains. “[With] the way now that the Brown Sugar Kitchen in Uptown is starting too stabilize, and being able to run without me, this venue will give me a chance to get back to Tanya the creative a little bit more, which is exciting.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The museum’s former cafe, Blue Oak Cafe, is currently closed. Construction is set to begin early next month and, in the interim, a lunch-only pop-up from chef Dionne Knox’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.zellassoulfulkitchen.com/\">Zella’s Soulful Kitchen\u003c/a> will take over the first floor lobby.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/136360/chef-tanya-hollands-town-fare-raises-the-oakland-museums-culinary-profile","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_8924","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_10821","bayareabites_10545","bayareabites_8925","bayareabites_108","bayareabites_14826"],"featImg":"bayareabites_136366","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_136148":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_136148","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"136148","score":null,"sort":[1579745548000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"before-impossible-burgers-the-bay-area-perfected-fake-meats-for-decades","title":"Before Impossible Burgers, the Bay Area Perfected Fake Meats for Decades","publishDate":1579745548,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For a lot of us in the Bay Area, it’s like watching the rest of the country catch up. New waves of lab-engineered alternative proteins are sweeping the nation. They promise to be so much like their meat muses that it’s hard to tell the difference. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Los Angeles’s Beyond Meat has made waves with its rising stocks and its beef, chicken and pork-inspired products. These now include patties and sausages sold at fast food chains like Carl’s Jr. and Subway. The Redwood City-based Impossible Foods first debuted its burger patty at upscale restaurants like Momofuku Nishi in New York and San Francisco’s now-closed Jardinière before scaling up through a partnership with Burger King last year. With their marketing language and their venture capital funding models, both companies are more Silicon Valley than Bay Area natural grocery store.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bay Area history is replete with vegan “meats.” Some, like lentil and black bean burgers, are impossible to mistake with beef. They proudly stand, or rather lay, as legume patties. But for years, a variety of Bay Area restaurants and grocery stores have imitated the fleshy textures of beef, poultry and pork to much success. At Chinese restaurants in the Bay and beyond, vegan meats absorb sauces and hold chew convincingly—even though they’re genetically closer to the broccoli on the plate beside them than any poultry product. In fact, fake meat likely first emerged in \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vice.com/en_asia/article/8xyqqz/origin-of-fake-meat-chinese-cuisine\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chinese cuisine\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> as early as the 7th century. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vegelutiontrading.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Market\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Oakland’s Chinatown, there is no language around “optimized protein,” but rather shelves and fridges full of plant-based proteins, in the shape of chicken nuggets, shrimps and more. The market, which provides wholesale meat substitutes for restaurants all over the Bay Area, including \u003ca href=\"https://rnglounge.com/\">R&G Lounge\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thebutchersson_official/?hl=en\">The Butcher’s Son\u003c/a>, has been around since at least 1996. That’s co-owner Samuel Wong’s estimate. Wong took over the market, which imports a lot of its goods from Taiwan, last January from the now-retired Layonna Wang. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I spent over two months with her before she handed it over to me,” he says. “I was a cashier. I was a delivery driver. She questioned me a lot of times. She doesn’t want people to take over and then end [the business].” Since assuming control, Wong has noticed a big growth in his wholesale business. That includes new customers as well as increased demand from longtime clients. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136156\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136156\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105.jpg\" alt=\"Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Store in Oakland's Chinatown.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-1020x765.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Store in Oakland's Chinatown. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Indeed, the demand for meat-free meat shows no sign of slowing. This year, Impossible Foods is shifting its attention to pork while Beyond Meats eyes chicken as its next big game. Last summer, the latter teased a fried-chicken product at a KFC in Atlanta, which \u003ca href=\"https://techcrunch.com/2019/08/26/kentucky-fried-chicken-goes-beyond-chicken-in-partnership-with-beyond-meat/\">sold out in five hours\u003c/a>. As consumers wait and see what new batches of meat-free alternatives these large-scale companies cook up, Bay Area residents can revisit some old, faithful favorites that serve vegan and vegetarian proteins with flavors from across the world.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>San Francisco\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/rheas-deli-and-market-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Rhea’s Deli\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Mission district deli and sandwich shop, offers two meat-free options, including a marinated “vege-beef” steak sandwich. Their beloved vegan BBQ chicken sandwich features Layonna’s chicken drumsticks dressed with plenty of pickled fixings and chili sauce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/love-n-haight-deli-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Love N’ Haight\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Lower Haight family-run institution, has been serving meat-free dutch crunch sandwiches, salads and various deli sundries for over two decades. Owner Fey Chao and her family, who converted the deli’s menu to fully vegetarian in 2013 according to Hoodline, have kept their prices very accessible. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://goldeneravegan.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Golden Era Vegan Restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> opened in 1999, making it a veteran in the fake meat game. The restaurant serves up dishes with Vietnamese, Chinese, Indian and Thai influences and totally free of any animal products. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Oakland\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/officialveganmob/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegan Mob\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the much buzzed-about Oakland soul food restaurant, boasts hour-long lines even months after its opening last October. The plant-based menu of chef and owner Toriano Gordon features brisket, gumbo and fried chicken. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B7T8qdVAcOl/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/gay4u.biz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gay 4 U\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the second incarnation of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/135485/hella-vegan-eats-is-reborn-in-oakland-as-gay-4-u\">Hella Vegan Eats\u003c/a>, features a few “meat” products, including a chickpea and seitan burger patty and a non-GMO soy chicken and waffle burger. Chef Sofi Espice, who offers free meals for trans people of color, also uses jackfruit in their taco dish at Gay 4 U. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B6qqxF0B6xw/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/aburayaoakland/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Aburaya\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Japanese punk-themed fried chicken spot, has always had a soft spot for vegans since its opening in 2014. All of the restaurant's fried combos come in both cauliflower and Layonna soy-chicken versions with an egg-free miso ranch dressing. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Berkeley\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flacosvegmex/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flacos\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> has been serving up delicious vegan Mexican food since 2010 (and might soon be moving pending a housing development that’s set to take over their lot). Animal-free proteins sourced from Layonna’s can be found in their delicious mole and crispy taquitos.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BECD5fbERqI/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thebutchersson_official/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Butcher’s Son\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> quickly outgrew its outpost on University Avenue and moved up the street to a bigger storefront with a deli market on top of their sandwich operation. According to Berkeleyside, the owners of the restaurant are also planning to take over Pizza Moda, converting it into \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2019/12/10/pizza-moda-to-become-a-sister-vegan-italian-restaurant-for-the-butchers-son\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a vegan Italian restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> set to open this winter. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B6RD-tkgY9o/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/long-life-vegi-house-berkeley?sort_by=date_desc\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Long Live Vegi House\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">’s lunch specials have made loyal fans of East Bay residents. The long-running restaurant recently moved to a new location but has kept the same menu featuring Mongolian beef, Kung Pao chicken and sweet and sour pork, all served with plenty of vegetables. Beware that while the restaurant’s meats are vegetarian, its seafood offerings are really seafood. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"As the rest of the country is swept up by a new wave, Layonna Vegetarian Health Food and others keep on serving tasty meat alternatives.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1579915254,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":1027},"headData":{"title":"Before Impossible Burgers, the Bay Area Perfected Fake Meats for Decades | KQED","description":"As the rest of the country is swept up by a new wave, Layonna Vegetarian Health Food and others keep on serving tasty meat alternatives.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"136148 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=136148","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/01/22/before-impossible-burgers-the-bay-area-perfected-fake-meats-for-decades/","disqusTitle":"Before Impossible Burgers, the Bay Area Perfected Fake Meats for Decades","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/136148/before-impossible-burgers-the-bay-area-perfected-fake-meats-for-decades","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For a lot of us in the Bay Area, it’s like watching the rest of the country catch up. New waves of lab-engineered alternative proteins are sweeping the nation. They promise to be so much like their meat muses that it’s hard to tell the difference. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Los Angeles’s Beyond Meat has made waves with its rising stocks and its beef, chicken and pork-inspired products. These now include patties and sausages sold at fast food chains like Carl’s Jr. and Subway. The Redwood City-based Impossible Foods first debuted its burger patty at upscale restaurants like Momofuku Nishi in New York and San Francisco’s now-closed Jardinière before scaling up through a partnership with Burger King last year. With their marketing language and their venture capital funding models, both companies are more Silicon Valley than Bay Area natural grocery store.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bay Area history is replete with vegan “meats.” Some, like lentil and black bean burgers, are impossible to mistake with beef. They proudly stand, or rather lay, as legume patties. But for years, a variety of Bay Area restaurants and grocery stores have imitated the fleshy textures of beef, poultry and pork to much success. At Chinese restaurants in the Bay and beyond, vegan meats absorb sauces and hold chew convincingly—even though they’re genetically closer to the broccoli on the plate beside them than any poultry product. In fact, fake meat likely first emerged in \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vice.com/en_asia/article/8xyqqz/origin-of-fake-meat-chinese-cuisine\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chinese cuisine\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> as early as the 7th century. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vegelutiontrading.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Market\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Oakland’s Chinatown, there is no language around “optimized protein,” but rather shelves and fridges full of plant-based proteins, in the shape of chicken nuggets, shrimps and more. The market, which provides wholesale meat substitutes for restaurants all over the Bay Area, including \u003ca href=\"https://rnglounge.com/\">R&G Lounge\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thebutchersson_official/?hl=en\">The Butcher’s Son\u003c/a>, has been around since at least 1996. That’s co-owner Samuel Wong’s estimate. Wong took over the market, which imports a lot of its goods from Taiwan, last January from the now-retired Layonna Wang. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I spent over two months with her before she handed it over to me,” he says. “I was a cashier. I was a delivery driver. She questioned me a lot of times. She doesn’t want people to take over and then end [the business].” Since assuming control, Wong has noticed a big growth in his wholesale business. That includes new customers as well as increased demand from longtime clients. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136156\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136156\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105.jpg\" alt=\"Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Store in Oakland's Chinatown.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-1020x765.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Store in Oakland's Chinatown. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Indeed, the demand for meat-free meat shows no sign of slowing. This year, Impossible Foods is shifting its attention to pork while Beyond Meats eyes chicken as its next big game. Last summer, the latter teased a fried-chicken product at a KFC in Atlanta, which \u003ca href=\"https://techcrunch.com/2019/08/26/kentucky-fried-chicken-goes-beyond-chicken-in-partnership-with-beyond-meat/\">sold out in five hours\u003c/a>. As consumers wait and see what new batches of meat-free alternatives these large-scale companies cook up, Bay Area residents can revisit some old, faithful favorites that serve vegan and vegetarian proteins with flavors from across the world.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>San Francisco\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/rheas-deli-and-market-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Rhea’s Deli\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Mission district deli and sandwich shop, offers two meat-free options, including a marinated “vege-beef” steak sandwich. Their beloved vegan BBQ chicken sandwich features Layonna’s chicken drumsticks dressed with plenty of pickled fixings and chili sauce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/love-n-haight-deli-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Love N’ Haight\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Lower Haight family-run institution, has been serving meat-free dutch crunch sandwiches, salads and various deli sundries for over two decades. Owner Fey Chao and her family, who converted the deli’s menu to fully vegetarian in 2013 according to Hoodline, have kept their prices very accessible. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://goldeneravegan.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Golden Era Vegan Restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> opened in 1999, making it a veteran in the fake meat game. The restaurant serves up dishes with Vietnamese, Chinese, Indian and Thai influences and totally free of any animal products. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Oakland\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/officialveganmob/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegan Mob\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the much buzzed-about Oakland soul food restaurant, boasts hour-long lines even months after its opening last October. The plant-based menu of chef and owner Toriano Gordon features brisket, gumbo and fried chicken. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B7T8qdVAcOl"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/gay4u.biz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gay 4 U\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the second incarnation of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/135485/hella-vegan-eats-is-reborn-in-oakland-as-gay-4-u\">Hella Vegan Eats\u003c/a>, features a few “meat” products, including a chickpea and seitan burger patty and a non-GMO soy chicken and waffle burger. Chef Sofi Espice, who offers free meals for trans people of color, also uses jackfruit in their taco dish at Gay 4 U. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B6qqxF0B6xw"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/aburayaoakland/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Aburaya\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Japanese punk-themed fried chicken spot, has always had a soft spot for vegans since its opening in 2014. All of the restaurant's fried combos come in both cauliflower and Layonna soy-chicken versions with an egg-free miso ranch dressing. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Berkeley\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flacosvegmex/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flacos\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> has been serving up delicious vegan Mexican food since 2010 (and might soon be moving pending a housing development that’s set to take over their lot). Animal-free proteins sourced from Layonna’s can be found in their delicious mole and crispy taquitos.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"BECD5fbERqI"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thebutchersson_official/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Butcher’s Son\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> quickly outgrew its outpost on University Avenue and moved up the street to a bigger storefront with a deli market on top of their sandwich operation. According to Berkeleyside, the owners of the restaurant are also planning to take over Pizza Moda, converting it into \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2019/12/10/pizza-moda-to-become-a-sister-vegan-italian-restaurant-for-the-butchers-son\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a vegan Italian restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> set to open this winter. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B6RD-tkgY9o"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/long-life-vegi-house-berkeley?sort_by=date_desc\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Long Live Vegi House\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">’s lunch specials have made loyal fans of East Bay residents. The long-running restaurant recently moved to a new location but has kept the same menu featuring Mongolian beef, Kung Pao chicken and sweet and sour pork, all served with plenty of vegetables. Beware that while the restaurant’s meats are vegetarian, its seafood offerings are really seafood. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/136148/before-impossible-burgers-the-bay-area-perfected-fake-meats-for-decades","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_264","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_181","bayareabites_60","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_14751","bayareabites_2386","bayareabites_9710","bayareabites_13931","bayareabites_330","bayareabites_758","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_9714","bayareabites_14745","bayareabites_1180","bayareabites_1871","bayareabites_13973"],"featImg":"bayareabites_136153","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"On Our Watch from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/onourwatch","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"1"},"link":"/podcasts/onourwatch","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1567098962","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/onourwatch","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0OLWoyizopu6tY1XiuX70x","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/On-Our-Watch-p1436229/","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/show/on-our-watch","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510360/podcast.xml"}},"on-the-media":{"id":"on-the-media","title":"On The Media","info":"Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. 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