What Is 'Natural' Food? A Riddle Wrapped In Notions Of Good And Evil
Can You Trust The "Natural" Label on Food Products?
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It's an ancient philosophical question with no easy answers.","publishDate":1462724406,"status":"inherit","parent":109175,"modified":1462724896,"caption":"The FDA is asking consumers to help define what \"natural\" food is. It's an ancient philosophical question with no easy answers.","credit":"Jutta Kuss/fStop/Getty Images ","description":"The FDA is asking consumers to help define what \"natural\" food is. It's an ancient philosophical question with no easy answers.","imgSizes":{"thumbnail":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/allnatural_enl-dcb05c3fac76047368db54554646ead9da51057d-400x277.jpg","width":400,"height":277,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"medium":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/allnatural_enl-dcb05c3fac76047368db54554646ead9da51057d-800x555.jpg","width":800,"height":555,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"medium_large":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/allnatural_enl-dcb05c3fac76047368db54554646ead9da51057d-768x533.jpg","width":768,"height":533,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"large":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/allnatural_enl-dcb05c3fac76047368db54554646ead9da51057d-1440x999.jpg","width":1440,"height":999,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"fd-lrg":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/allnatural_enl-dcb05c3fac76047368db54554646ead9da51057d-1920x1332.jpg","width":1920,"height":1332,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"fd-med":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/allnatural_enl-dcb05c3fac76047368db54554646ead9da51057d-1180x818.jpg","width":1180,"height":818,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"fd-sm":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/allnatural_enl-dcb05c3fac76047368db54554646ead9da51057d-960x666.jpg","width":960,"height":666,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"post-thumbnail":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/allnatural_enl-dcb05c3fac76047368db54554646ead9da51057d-672x372.jpg","width":672,"height":372,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"twentyfourteen-full-width":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/allnatural_enl-dcb05c3fac76047368db54554646ead9da51057d-1038x576.jpg","width":1038,"height":576,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"guest-author-32":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/allnatural_enl-dcb05c3fac76047368db54554646ead9da51057d-32x32.jpg","width":32,"height":32,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"guest-author-64":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/allnatural_enl-dcb05c3fac76047368db54554646ead9da51057d-64x64.jpg","width":64,"height":64,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"guest-author-96":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/allnatural_enl-dcb05c3fac76047368db54554646ead9da51057d-96x96.jpg","width":96,"height":96,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"guest-author-128":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/allnatural_enl-dcb05c3fac76047368db54554646ead9da51057d-128x128.jpg","width":128,"height":128,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"cat_post_thumb_sizecategory-posts-2":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/allnatural_enl-dcb05c3fac76047368db54554646ead9da51057d-150x150.jpg","width":150,"height":150,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"detail":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/allnatural_enl-dcb05c3fac76047368db54554646ead9da51057d-150x150.jpg","width":150,"height":150,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"kqedFullSize":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/allnatural_enl-dcb05c3fac76047368db54554646ead9da51057d.jpg","width":2000,"height":1387}},"fetchFailed":false,"isLoading":false},"bayareabites_87439":{"type":"attachments","id":"bayareabites_87439","meta":{"index":"attachments_1591205162","site":"bayareabites","id":"87439","found":true},"title":"funny_food_labels_by_tiffany_terry","publishDate":1410478336,"status":"inherit","parent":87432,"modified":1410478336,"caption":"Funny Food labels. 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Learn more at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/\">cuesa.org\u003c/a>.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/323b5bab8e802e76af5b72a66b7c6987?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"cuesa","facebook":"CUESA","instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["author"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"CUESA | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/323b5bab8e802e76af5b72a66b7c6987?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/323b5bab8e802e76af5b72a66b7c6987?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/cuesa"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_109175":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_109175","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"109175","score":null,"sort":[1462807381000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"what-is-natural-food-a-riddle-wrapped-in-notions-of-good-and-evil","title":"What Is 'Natural' Food? A Riddle Wrapped In Notions Of Good And Evil","publishDate":1462807381,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Americans have until \u003ca href=\"http://www.fda.gov/Food/GuidanceRegulation/GuidanceDocumentsRegulatoryInformation/LabelingNutrition/ucm456090.htm\">May 10th\u003c/a> to help the Food and Drug Administration with one of philosophy's greatest riddles: What is the meaning of \"natural\"?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given our current attitudes, the riddle might be better described as religious. \u003ca href=\"http://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052702304470504579163933732367084#:uc22dcUgngDmBA\">Data show\u003c/a> that 51 percent of us shop for \"all natural\" food – shelling out some $40 billion a year on these products. We even \u003ca href=\"https://www.qsrmagazine.com/news/consumers-care-more-about-natural-foods-organic\">choose\u003c/a> natural over organic, market analysts have found. Natural has become the non-denominational version of kosher, and orthodoxy is on the rise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The religiosity is apparent in the 4,863 public comments that have already been submitted to the FDA online. Natural and unnatural read like Manichean synonyms for good and evil. Some comments are \u003ca href=\"https://www.regulations.gov/#!documentDetail;D=FDA-2014-N-1207-2911\">explicitly\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://www.regulations.gov/#!documentDetail;D=FDA-2014-N-1207-0310\">theological\u003c/a>: \"Natural should be limited to those ingredients that have been created by God.\" Others refer to violations of Mother \u003ca href=\"https://www.regulations.gov/#!docketBrowser;rpp=25;po=0;s=%2522nature%252Bintended%2522;dct=PS;D=FDA-2014-N-1207\">Nature's intentions\u003c/a>. Behind virtually all of them pulses an intense desire for salvation from modernity's perceived sins: \u003ca href=\"https://www.regulations.gov/#!docketBrowser;rpp=25;po=0;s=Gmo;dct=PS;D=FDA-2014-N-1207\">GMOs\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.regulations.gov/#!docketBrowser;rpp=25;po=0;s=pesticides;dct=PS;D=FDA-2014-N-1207\">pesticides\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.regulations.gov/#!docketBrowser;rpp=25;po=0;s=chemicals;dct=PS;D=FDA-2014-N-1207\">chemicals\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.regulations.gov/#!docketBrowser;rpp=25;po=0;s=artificial;dct=PS;D=FDA-2014-N-1207\">artificiality\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.regulations.gov/#!docketBrowser;rpp=25;po=0;s=synthetic;dct=PS;D=FDA-2014-N-1207\">synthetics\u003c/a>. We ate, greedily, from the tree of scientific knowledge. Now we are condemned to suffer outside of Eden, unless we find a natural way back in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fair warning, though: Crowdsourcing theology is no easy task. This latest effort is actually round three for the U.S. government. Back in 1974, the Federal Trade Commission proposed codifying a simple definition: \"Natural\" foods are \"those with no artificial ingredients and only minimal processing.\" Public comments poured in. The FTC deliberated for nine years, then gave up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A fundamental problem exists,\" explained then-chairman James C. Miller. \"The context in which 'natural' is used determines its meaning. It is unlikely that consumers expect the same thing from a natural apple as they do from natural ice cream.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The FDA's first attempt \u003ca href=\"https://www.federalregister.gov/articles/2015/11/12/2015-28779/use-of-the-term-natural-in-the-labeling-of-human-food-products-request-for-information-and-comments\">met with a similar fate\u003c/a>. In 1991 the agency invited input on the definition of \"natural,\" noting widespread belief that natural foods are \"somehow more wholesome.\" But like the FTC, the FDA also gave up, this time blaming the failure on us: \"None of the comments provided FDA with a specific direction to follow for developing a definition.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That was fine until 2009, \u003ca href=\"http://heinonline.org/HOL/LandingPage?handle=hein.journals/rol34&div=22&id=&page=\">when a wave\u003c/a> of lawsuits started to hit food manufacturers. Plaintiffs argued that Snapple's \"all natural\" designation was deceptive because its drinks contained high fructose corn syrup. Ditto for many of Nature Valley's products — which, \u003ca href=\"http://tushnet.blogspot.com/2013/05/another-court-rejects-waiting-for-fda.html\">it was noted\u003c/a>, were deceptively festooned with \"images of forests, mountains, and seaside landscapes.\" Twin lawsuits against Ben and Jerry's and Häagen-Dazs helped to clarify what consumers expect from \"natural\" ice cream — \u003cem>not\u003c/em> Dutch-processed cocoa, apparently, which is alkalized with potassium carbonate, a synthetic ingredient. Even Whole Foods — the Church itself! — \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnavigator-usa.com/Regulation/Whole-Foods-targeted-in-new-lawsuit-over-all-natural-claims\">is currently being sued\u003c/a> for advertising its bread as \"all-natural,\" despite containing sodium acid pyrophosphate, a synthetic leavening agent allowed in \u003ca href=\"https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/7/205.605\">organic products\u003c/a> (you might know it as baking powder).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fearing endless and ambiguous legal woes, representatives of the food industry issued petitions requesting that the FDA standardize the term. At the same time, the Consumers Union, a non-profit associated with Consumer Reports, called on the FDA to \u003cem>prohibit\u003c/em> any use of the word or related derivations. (One wonders how the group envisions this playing out for Nature Valley, Back to Nature, Amy's Naturals, Organic by Nature, and the countless other companies whose names incorporate derivations of natural.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I spoke about the wisdom of defining natural food with Georgetown Law professor and false advertising expert \u003ca href=\"http://tushnet.blogspot.com/\">Rebecca Tushnet\u003c/a>. \"My initial reaction is that it's a good idea,\" she tells me. \"People think natural is better than organic, but natural doesn't have a specific meaning. That's confusing. Corporations also need a clear definition so they can use the term and stop getting sued.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her position makes sense. After all, rabbinic courts have established rules about the meaning of kosher. Otherwise the kosher seal would be useless. The time has come for government authorities, with our help, to do the same for the meaning of natural food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Before attempting to answer this question, it's worth noting that until recently, no one really asked it.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109177\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/emaciated_siddhartha_fasting_gautama_buddha_custom-bcdb5b9143f043aebe65fe24312fef7ccbb9d056-400x598.jpg\" alt=\"A statue depicts an emaciated Buddha, who denied himself food as a form of asceticism before finding enlightenment.\" width=\"400\" height=\"598\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-109177\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/emaciated_siddhartha_fasting_gautama_buddha_custom-bcdb5b9143f043aebe65fe24312fef7ccbb9d056-400x598.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/emaciated_siddhartha_fasting_gautama_buddha_custom-bcdb5b9143f043aebe65fe24312fef7ccbb9d056-800x1197.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/emaciated_siddhartha_fasting_gautama_buddha_custom-bcdb5b9143f043aebe65fe24312fef7ccbb9d056-768x1149.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/emaciated_siddhartha_fasting_gautama_buddha_custom-bcdb5b9143f043aebe65fe24312fef7ccbb9d056-1440x2154.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/emaciated_siddhartha_fasting_gautama_buddha_custom-bcdb5b9143f043aebe65fe24312fef7ccbb9d056-1180x1765.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/emaciated_siddhartha_fasting_gautama_buddha_custom-bcdb5b9143f043aebe65fe24312fef7ccbb9d056-960x1436.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A statue depicts an emaciated Buddha, who denied himself food as a form of asceticism before finding enlightenment. \u003ccite>(Akuppa John Wigham /Flickr )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though the distinction between natural and artificial — that is, made by man's art —dates back at least to \u003ca href=\"http://plato.stanford.edu/entries/artifact/#1\">Aristotle\u003c/a>, the popular romanticization of natural food stands in stark contrast to pre-modern culinary philosophies. In keeping with the idea that you are what you eat, refined people ate refined food. \u003ca href=\"http://www.rachellaudan.com/2007/09/refined-food-or-plain-food.html\">According to\u003c/a> historian Rachel Laudan, \"for most of history people wanted the most refined, the most processed, the most thoroughly cooked food possible. This was regarded as the most simple and natural food, because all the dross had been removed by the purifying effects of processing and cooking, particularly fire. Ideal foods were sugar, clarified butter or ghee, white bread, white rice, cooked fruit, wine and so on.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similarly, classical Chinese texts routinely express pity for early humans who, without the benefit of agriculture and cooking technology, were forced to eat directly from nature. \"In ancient times,\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.jstor.org/stable/4528996?seq=1#page_scan_tab_contents\">reads the \u003cem>Huainanzi\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \"people ate vegetation and drank from streams; they picked fruit from trees and ate the flesh of shellfish and insects. In those times there was much illness and suffering, as well as injury from poisons.\" Only through the alchemy of cooking\u003cstrong>, \u003c/strong>these Chinese philosophers concluded, could \"rank and putrid foods\" be transformed into something good to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both in the East and the West there have always been a minority of ascetics who denied themselves cooked, flavorful food and the products of agriculture. But unlike today, such ascetic denial was intended to distance the practitioner from the physical world, nature included. The ideal wasn't unprocessed food, but rather no food at all. Early Daoist tales tell of \"spirit men\" who subsisted entirely on wind and water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Food was flesh and flesh was suffering and fertility,\" \u003ca href=\"https://books.google.com/books?hl=en&lr=&id=9DUgmJGxZyEC&oi=fnd&pg=PP2&dq=christian+monastic+fasting&ots=iBGalbgzSJ&sig=_LAmihPO92N815TUOp29SraAFSY#v=onepage&q=renouncing%20ordinary%20food&f=false\">writes\u003c/a> the scholar Caroline Walker Bynum, describing the attitude of pious medieval Christian women. \"In renouncing ordinary food and directing their being toward the food that is Christ, women moved to God...by abandoning their flawed physicality.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The turn towards redemptive natural foods didn't begin until the 18\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century, when Romantics, led by Rousseau, began looking to the culinary past for guidance. Haute cuisine was blamed for the vices of the rich; country food bred virtuous peasants, their nature unspoiled by human artifice. \"Our appetite is only excessive,\" wrote Rousseau in 1762, \"because we try to impose on it rules other than those of nature.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109186\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/rousseau_custom-fde59d569bf9f279e842025cc4aebf9b9b7991ff-s300-c85.jpg\" alt='In the 18th century Jean Jacques Rousseau, the high priest of the Romantics, sought redemption in natural foods. \"Our appetite is only excessive,\" wrote Rousseau in 1762, \"because we try to impose on it rules other than those of nature.\"' width=\"300\" height=\"417\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109186\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In the 18th century Jean Jacques Rousseau, the high priest of the Romantics, sought redemption in natural foods. \"Our appetite is only excessive,\" wrote Rousseau in 1762, \"because we try to impose on it rules other than those of nature.\" \u003ccite>(Maurice Quentin de La Tour/Wikimedia Commons )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But among those who favored the culinary dictates of nature, there was little agreement upon their content. For Rousseau, it was vegetarianism: \"One of the proofs that the taste of flesh is not natural to man is the indifference which children exhibit for that sort of meat.\" This idea gained traction in the 19\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century, most famously in poet Percy Bysshe Shelley's 1813 essay \u003cem>A Vindication of Natural Diet\u003c/em>, which blamed flesh-eating — \"unnatural diet\" — for a litany of woes including disease, crime and depravity. Some physicians were convinced, but many others continued to emphasize the centrality of meat to our natural diets. A popular medical text of the late 19\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003ca href=\"https://books.google.com/books?id=moMfAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA108&dq=%22natural+diet%22+meat&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi1u7S8lMDMAhXI6CYKHdbuAgcQ6AEIITAB#v=onepage&q=%22natural%20diet%22%20meat&f=false\">expresses the tension\u003c/a> in a section that could easily apply today:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"On my table are two books on the diet question, written by two well-known physicians. One proves at great length that the natural diet of man is the vegetable diet. Meat, this author claims, is unnecessary and injurious. ... The other author differs from the forgoing very radically. In his view the natural diet of the normal man is largely flesh food. When doctors disagree who shall decide?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Only with the dominance of mechanized food production did the argument over \"natural\" begin to focus on the deleterious effects of processing, and come to look something like what it does in the FDA comments. In the mid-19th century, health food pioneer Sylvester Graham (of graham cracker fame) advocated for vegetarianism, but also for the superiority of whole grains and natural, unprocessed foods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It is nearly certain that the primitive inhabitants of the earth ate their food with very little, if any artificial preparation,\" \u003ca href=\"https://books.google.com/books?id=JkIPAQAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=sylvester+graham+flour&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjv8q6CmcDMAhUDMyYKHSg2AiEQ6AEIHDAA#v=onepage&q=natural%20state&f=false\">he wrote\u003c/a> approvingly, in stark contrast to the ancient Chinese. \"Food in its natural state would be the best.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the same period, food chemistry exploded — accompanied by concerns over dangerous chemicals. In her \u003ca href=\"https://jhupbooks.press.jhu.edu/content/refined-tastes\">history of sugar\u003c/a>, Wendy Woloson reports that as early as the 1830s, the medical journal \u003cem>The Lancet\u003c/em> carried articles warning about popular British candies, exported to America, that were adulterated with \"red oxide of lead, chromate of lead, and red suphuret of mercury.\" These candy makers also used cheap, poisonous dyes to attract children. Nor was it just children: People suffered the ill effects of \u003ca href=\"http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/adulteration-of-beer-with-strychnin/\">strychnine\u003c/a> in beer, \u003ca href=\"https://books.google.com/books?id=Rkc3AAAAMAAJ&pg=PA646&lpg=PA646&dq=suphate+of+copper+pickles+poison&source=bl&ots=qAZSeJQG9k&sig=ytD_fyAa44TWUKwhydglBdZNl6A&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjnlJ-JocDMAhWG2SYKHeE0CWwQ6AEIHzAA#v=onepage&q=suphate%20of%20copp\">sulphate of copper\u003c/a> in pickles, and countless other poisonous additives that proliferated in a largely unregulated food industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Notwithstanding increased oversight — most prominently the 1906 establishment of the FDA —20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century agricultural developments brought additional concerns. In her 1960s bestseller \u003cem>Silent Spring\u003c/em>, Rachel Carson called attention not only to the environmental harms of pesticide use, but also to their presence in our foods. \"Packaged foods in warehouses are subjected to repeated aerosol treatments with DDT, lindane, and other insecticides, which may penetrate the packaging materials,\" she wrote. To make matters worse, Carson warned that the government was powerless to protect us: \"The activities of the Food and Drug Administration in the field of consumer protection against pesticides are severely limited.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given the last hundred years of food history, it's hard not to sympathize with those who venerate natural food. Medical authorities have come to agree with Graham on the benefits of whole grains. Diets rich in highly refined carbohydrates – the kind found in cookies, chips and other processed snack foods – and sugary drinks are implicated in rising obesity rates and related health problems. Meanwhile, \u003ca href=\"http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/chemical-tainted-food/\">articles\u003c/a> run on a \u003ca href=\"https://www.publichealth.uga.edu/ehs/news/chemical-exposure-could-lead-obesity-uga-study-finds\">near daily basis\u003c/a> about the potential dangers of synthetic chemicals used to produce and package these foods. The powerful corporate giants that produce them spend heavily to influence science and public policy. Worst of all, there appears to be a \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodpolitics.com/?s=revolving+door\">revolving door\u003c/a> between the companies and regulatory agencies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's no wonder that people are scared. Skepticism seems warranted — which means that faith in the most recent incarnation of \"natural\" food, far from being irrational religiosity or a relic of the romantic past, might be a good way to keep ourselves and our families safe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109189\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/rachelcarson_custom-86fe41fd1487a6ae2a19073013f2aba1b82dad9f-s800-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Silent Spring author Rachel Carson testifies before a Senate panel on pesticides in 1963.\" width=\"800\" height=\"548\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109189\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/rachelcarson_custom-86fe41fd1487a6ae2a19073013f2aba1b82dad9f-s800-c85.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/rachelcarson_custom-86fe41fd1487a6ae2a19073013f2aba1b82dad9f-s800-c85-400x274.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/rachelcarson_custom-86fe41fd1487a6ae2a19073013f2aba1b82dad9f-s800-c85-768x526.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Silent Spring author Rachel Carson testifies before a Senate panel on pesticides in 1963. \u003ccite>(AP)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Despite these legitimate concerns, the long and checkered history of natural cautions against an uncritical embrace of the term, especially as some kind of panacea.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Philosophers warn of the \"appeal to nature\" fallacy, in which good is equated with natural. In addition, there seem to be nearly insurmountable difficulties with defining the term in the first place. Even the well-known food writer and activist Michael Pollan sees no real way forward. Confronted by \"such edible oxymorons as 'natural' Cheetos Puffs,\" he \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2015/05/03/magazine/why-natural-doesnt-mean-anything-anymore.html?_r=0\">throws up his hands\u003c/a>: \"Nature, if you believe in human exceptionalism, is over. We probably ought to search somewhere else for our values.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nevertheless, in the very same essay, Pollan indicates that some common sense version of natural really should guide our choices. It's not hard, he says, to figure out which of two things is more natural: \"Cane sugar or high-fructose corn syrup? Chicken or chicken nuggets? GMOs or heirloom seeds?\" The opposite of natural, on his reading, is artificial or synthetic, and it's clear that the former should be preferred to the latter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But is that really true? I interviewed philosophers and chemists to see if there was some kind of consensus on the matter. It turns out that those who think professionally about the issue are no less confused or divided than the rest of us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the philosophers. \u003ca href=\"http://www.hope.edu/academic/philosophy/faculty/\">Joseph LaPorte\u003c/a> of Hope College specializes in the language we use to classify the natural world and has written extensively on the idea of \"nature\" and \"naturalness.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"To be sure, natural doesn't mean safe,\" he told me. \"Nature produces some of the most formidable toxins in the world. But when it comes to packages of chemicals, as they exist in foods or fragrances, nature is a good bet, or at least a clue, because coevolution often suggests its safety and efficacy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109191\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/cheetos.jpg\" alt='\"Natural\" Cheetos: an edible oxymoron?' width=\"800\" height=\"532\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109191\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/cheetos.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/cheetos-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/cheetos-768x511.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Natural\" Cheetos: an edible oxymoron? \u003ccite>(Daniel Acker/Bloomberg via Getty Images )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not so fast, says York University's \u003ca href=\"http://www.yorku.ca/khalidi/\">Muhammad Ali Khalidi\u003c/a>, also a philosopher of science who specializes in classificatory language. \"Something very recent might be safe,\" he points out, \"and something that's been around for hundreds of years could be very dangerous.\" Case in point: Aryuveda, or traditional Indian medicine, has long prescribed herbal remedies that \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2015/07/31/428016419/toxic-lead-contaminates-some-traditional-ayurvedic-medicines\">contain dangerous heavy metals\u003c/a>. Smoked meats, a mainstay of non-industrial food production, are now known \u003ca href=\"http://www.cancer.gov/about-cancer/causes-prevention/risk/diet/cooked-meats-fact-sheet\">to increase cancer risk\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nor is the lack of consensus limited to the safety of natural food. Scientists also disagree on whether it makes sense to distinguish natural from synthetic products at all. Richard Sachleben, an organic chemist, told me flat-out that all chemicals are natural. Petroleum, he explained, was originally algae. Coal used to be forests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The natural enthusiasts, they like to distinguish things based on origin,\" he says. \"But that doesn't make any sense. Think about this: I could raise a pig in my backyard, and feed it corn that I grow myself. I could slaughter the pig and render the fat. I could ferment my corn and distill out the ethanol. Then I could boil wood ash, put this all together, and make bio-diesel. It would look no different chemically than if I used products derived from petroleum.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when I talked to Susie Bautista, a long-time flavor chemist turned \u003ca href=\"http://flavorscientist.com/author/flavorgal07/\">blogger\u003c/a>, she had no problem distinguishing between natural flavors —\"which are made with natural starting material, like fruits, roots, leaves and bark\"— and artificial flavors that are synthesized, bottom-up, out of chemical building blocks derived from sources like petrochemicals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think it's entirely reasonable to want natural flavors,\" she says. \"As a Mom and a consumer, I would lean towards natural flavors.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What, then, should we take from all this? If nothing else, the issues surrounding \"natural\" do not admit of easy answers. Those who shop for natural foods and fear \"chemicals\" are not necessarily irrational or anti-science. They shouldn't be mocked by (well-meaning) satirists who \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dihydrogen_monoxide_hoax\">refer to water\u003c/a> as dihydrogen monoxide or list the \u003ca href=\"http://resources3.news.com.au/images/2014/01/21/1226806/789895-2e77d7cc-823a-11e3-8c0a-8e0465bef8c3.jpg\">chemical contents\u003c/a> of an \"all-natural\" banana. At the same time, there's no good evidence that \u003ca href=\"http://groundedparents.com/2016/05/04/dont-share-robyn-obrien-posts/?utm_content=buffer4cb67&utm_medium=social&utm_source=twitter.com&utm_campaign=buffer\">parents\u003c/a> who eschew natural food and embrace GMOs are poisoning their children. Industrial agriculture, whatever its defects, shouldn't be confused with the \u003ca href=\"http://religiondispatches.org/is-monsanto-satan-the-pleasure-and-problem-of-conspiracy-theory/\">work of (Mon) Satan\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No one put the situation better than novelist John Steinbeck, who ruefully recognized these opposing perspectives within himself:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"Even while I protest the assembly-line production of our food, our songs, our language, and eventually our souls, I know that it was a rare home that baked good bread in the old days. Mother's cooking was with rare exceptions poor, that good unpasteurized milk touched only by flies and bits of manure crawled with bacteria, the healthy old-time life was riddled with aches, sudden death from unknown causes, and that sweet local speech I mourn was the child of illiteracy and ignorance.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Indeed, it's this conflicted understanding of natural, tempered by tolerance and compassion, that I heard from Nobel-Prize-winning chemist \u003ca href=\"http://www.nobelprize.org/nobel_prizes/chemistry/laureates/1981/hoffmann-bio.html\">Roald Hoffmann\u003c/a>. In addition to his accomplishments as a scientist, Hoffmann is a prolific poet and playwright who has written extensively on the intersection of science and religion, and the meaning of \"natural.\" During our long conversation he expressed sympathy for both sides of the debate, and maintained that there were no easy answers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Agriculture itself is the greatest invention for manipulating the natural and changing it that the world has ever known,\" says Hoffman. \"I would like people to be aware of that, and the chemical basis for it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nevertheless, he also maintained that everyone, laypeople and scientists alike, is attracted to what is natural — a claim \u003ca href=\"http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0195666304000455\">that has\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"http://mdm.sagepub.com/content/18/4/406.short\">empirical support\u003c/a>. For Hoffmann, natural isn't just about healthfulness, or the environment. It isn't a matter of physical identity. Even if synthetic diamonds are completely indistinguishable from geologically produced diamonds, the origin story matters: They are the same and not the same (which is also the title of one of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Same-Not-Roald-Hoffmann/dp/0231101384/ref=mt_hardcover?_encoding=UTF8&me=\">Hoffmann's books\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Did he prefer natural products himself, I wondered?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I would like to believe there is something to the construction of natural as good for us and Earth,\" he replied after a long pause, and then laughed. \"I know my wife believes so!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ultimately, Hoffmann thinks that fear, however irrational, can only be tempered with empowerment. \"No amount of knowledge, no matter how skillfully and widely taught, will assuage fear of the synthetic,\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.roaldhoffmann.com/sites/all/files/natural_unnatural.pdf\">he argues\u003c/a>, \"unless people feel that they have something to say, politically, in the use of the materials that frighten them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is for this reason that we should applaud the FDA's current project, difficult though it may be. All of us would do well to browse the submissions, either to increase our understanding of faith that differs from our own, or to reflect on the faith that we already hold. After doing so, perhaps you'll be inspired to submit your own reflection, and together — the same and not the same — we will muddle onward in humanity's long journey towards unraveling the riddle of \"natural.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Alan Levinovitz is an assistant professor of religion at James Madison University and the author of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Gluten-Lie-Other-Myths/dp/1941393063/ref=tmm_hrd_title_0?ie=UTF8&qid=1430947149&sr=8-1\">The Gluten Lie\u003c/a>\u003cem>. He is currently working on a book about the meaning of \"natural.\" Follow him: @alanlevinovitz \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Time is almost up for consumers to tell the FDA what \"natural\" food means. It's an ancient philosophical question with no easy answers.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1462807381,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":49,"wordCount":3070},"headData":{"title":"What Is 'Natural' Food? A Riddle Wrapped In Notions Of Good And Evil | KQED","description":"Time is almost up for consumers to tell the FDA what "natural" food means. It's an ancient philosophical question with no easy answers.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"What Is 'Natural' Food? A Riddle Wrapped In Notions Of Good And Evil","datePublished":"2016-05-09T15:23:01.000Z","dateModified":"2016-05-09T15:23:01.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"109175 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=109175","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/05/09/what-is-natural-food-a-riddle-wrapped-in-notions-of-good-and-evil/","disqusTitle":"What Is 'Natural' Food? A Riddle Wrapped In Notions Of Good And Evil","nprImageCredit":"Jutta Kuss","nprByline":"Alan Levinovitz, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"fStop/Getty Images","nprStoryId":"477057872","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=477057872&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/05/08/477057872/what-is-natural-food-a-riddle-wrapped-in-notions-of-good-and-evil?ft=nprml&f=477057872","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Sun, 08 May 2016 07:00:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Sun, 08 May 2016 07:00:13 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Sun, 08 May 2016 07:00:13 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/109175/what-is-natural-food-a-riddle-wrapped-in-notions-of-good-and-evil","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Americans have until \u003ca href=\"http://www.fda.gov/Food/GuidanceRegulation/GuidanceDocumentsRegulatoryInformation/LabelingNutrition/ucm456090.htm\">May 10th\u003c/a> to help the Food and Drug Administration with one of philosophy's greatest riddles: What is the meaning of \"natural\"?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given our current attitudes, the riddle might be better described as religious. \u003ca href=\"http://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052702304470504579163933732367084#:uc22dcUgngDmBA\">Data show\u003c/a> that 51 percent of us shop for \"all natural\" food – shelling out some $40 billion a year on these products. We even \u003ca href=\"https://www.qsrmagazine.com/news/consumers-care-more-about-natural-foods-organic\">choose\u003c/a> natural over organic, market analysts have found. Natural has become the non-denominational version of kosher, and orthodoxy is on the rise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The religiosity is apparent in the 4,863 public comments that have already been submitted to the FDA online. Natural and unnatural read like Manichean synonyms for good and evil. Some comments are \u003ca href=\"https://www.regulations.gov/#!documentDetail;D=FDA-2014-N-1207-2911\">explicitly\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"https://www.regulations.gov/#!documentDetail;D=FDA-2014-N-1207-0310\">theological\u003c/a>: \"Natural should be limited to those ingredients that have been created by God.\" Others refer to violations of Mother \u003ca href=\"https://www.regulations.gov/#!docketBrowser;rpp=25;po=0;s=%2522nature%252Bintended%2522;dct=PS;D=FDA-2014-N-1207\">Nature's intentions\u003c/a>. Behind virtually all of them pulses an intense desire for salvation from modernity's perceived sins: \u003ca href=\"https://www.regulations.gov/#!docketBrowser;rpp=25;po=0;s=Gmo;dct=PS;D=FDA-2014-N-1207\">GMOs\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.regulations.gov/#!docketBrowser;rpp=25;po=0;s=pesticides;dct=PS;D=FDA-2014-N-1207\">pesticides\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.regulations.gov/#!docketBrowser;rpp=25;po=0;s=chemicals;dct=PS;D=FDA-2014-N-1207\">chemicals\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.regulations.gov/#!docketBrowser;rpp=25;po=0;s=artificial;dct=PS;D=FDA-2014-N-1207\">artificiality\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.regulations.gov/#!docketBrowser;rpp=25;po=0;s=synthetic;dct=PS;D=FDA-2014-N-1207\">synthetics\u003c/a>. We ate, greedily, from the tree of scientific knowledge. Now we are condemned to suffer outside of Eden, unless we find a natural way back in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fair warning, though: Crowdsourcing theology is no easy task. This latest effort is actually round three for the U.S. government. Back in 1974, the Federal Trade Commission proposed codifying a simple definition: \"Natural\" foods are \"those with no artificial ingredients and only minimal processing.\" Public comments poured in. The FTC deliberated for nine years, then gave up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A fundamental problem exists,\" explained then-chairman James C. Miller. \"The context in which 'natural' is used determines its meaning. It is unlikely that consumers expect the same thing from a natural apple as they do from natural ice cream.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The FDA's first attempt \u003ca href=\"https://www.federalregister.gov/articles/2015/11/12/2015-28779/use-of-the-term-natural-in-the-labeling-of-human-food-products-request-for-information-and-comments\">met with a similar fate\u003c/a>. In 1991 the agency invited input on the definition of \"natural,\" noting widespread belief that natural foods are \"somehow more wholesome.\" But like the FTC, the FDA also gave up, this time blaming the failure on us: \"None of the comments provided FDA with a specific direction to follow for developing a definition.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That was fine until 2009, \u003ca href=\"http://heinonline.org/HOL/LandingPage?handle=hein.journals/rol34&div=22&id=&page=\">when a wave\u003c/a> of lawsuits started to hit food manufacturers. Plaintiffs argued that Snapple's \"all natural\" designation was deceptive because its drinks contained high fructose corn syrup. Ditto for many of Nature Valley's products — which, \u003ca href=\"http://tushnet.blogspot.com/2013/05/another-court-rejects-waiting-for-fda.html\">it was noted\u003c/a>, were deceptively festooned with \"images of forests, mountains, and seaside landscapes.\" Twin lawsuits against Ben and Jerry's and Häagen-Dazs helped to clarify what consumers expect from \"natural\" ice cream — \u003cem>not\u003c/em> Dutch-processed cocoa, apparently, which is alkalized with potassium carbonate, a synthetic ingredient. Even Whole Foods — the Church itself! — \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnavigator-usa.com/Regulation/Whole-Foods-targeted-in-new-lawsuit-over-all-natural-claims\">is currently being sued\u003c/a> for advertising its bread as \"all-natural,\" despite containing sodium acid pyrophosphate, a synthetic leavening agent allowed in \u003ca href=\"https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/7/205.605\">organic products\u003c/a> (you might know it as baking powder).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fearing endless and ambiguous legal woes, representatives of the food industry issued petitions requesting that the FDA standardize the term. At the same time, the Consumers Union, a non-profit associated with Consumer Reports, called on the FDA to \u003cem>prohibit\u003c/em> any use of the word or related derivations. (One wonders how the group envisions this playing out for Nature Valley, Back to Nature, Amy's Naturals, Organic by Nature, and the countless other companies whose names incorporate derivations of natural.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I spoke about the wisdom of defining natural food with Georgetown Law professor and false advertising expert \u003ca href=\"http://tushnet.blogspot.com/\">Rebecca Tushnet\u003c/a>. \"My initial reaction is that it's a good idea,\" she tells me. \"People think natural is better than organic, but natural doesn't have a specific meaning. That's confusing. Corporations also need a clear definition so they can use the term and stop getting sued.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her position makes sense. After all, rabbinic courts have established rules about the meaning of kosher. Otherwise the kosher seal would be useless. The time has come for government authorities, with our help, to do the same for the meaning of natural food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Before attempting to answer this question, it's worth noting that until recently, no one really asked it.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109177\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/emaciated_siddhartha_fasting_gautama_buddha_custom-bcdb5b9143f043aebe65fe24312fef7ccbb9d056-400x598.jpg\" alt=\"A statue depicts an emaciated Buddha, who denied himself food as a form of asceticism before finding enlightenment.\" width=\"400\" height=\"598\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-109177\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/emaciated_siddhartha_fasting_gautama_buddha_custom-bcdb5b9143f043aebe65fe24312fef7ccbb9d056-400x598.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/emaciated_siddhartha_fasting_gautama_buddha_custom-bcdb5b9143f043aebe65fe24312fef7ccbb9d056-800x1197.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/emaciated_siddhartha_fasting_gautama_buddha_custom-bcdb5b9143f043aebe65fe24312fef7ccbb9d056-768x1149.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/emaciated_siddhartha_fasting_gautama_buddha_custom-bcdb5b9143f043aebe65fe24312fef7ccbb9d056-1440x2154.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/emaciated_siddhartha_fasting_gautama_buddha_custom-bcdb5b9143f043aebe65fe24312fef7ccbb9d056-1180x1765.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/emaciated_siddhartha_fasting_gautama_buddha_custom-bcdb5b9143f043aebe65fe24312fef7ccbb9d056-960x1436.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A statue depicts an emaciated Buddha, who denied himself food as a form of asceticism before finding enlightenment. \u003ccite>(Akuppa John Wigham /Flickr )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Though the distinction between natural and artificial — that is, made by man's art —dates back at least to \u003ca href=\"http://plato.stanford.edu/entries/artifact/#1\">Aristotle\u003c/a>, the popular romanticization of natural food stands in stark contrast to pre-modern culinary philosophies. In keeping with the idea that you are what you eat, refined people ate refined food. \u003ca href=\"http://www.rachellaudan.com/2007/09/refined-food-or-plain-food.html\">According to\u003c/a> historian Rachel Laudan, \"for most of history people wanted the most refined, the most processed, the most thoroughly cooked food possible. This was regarded as the most simple and natural food, because all the dross had been removed by the purifying effects of processing and cooking, particularly fire. Ideal foods were sugar, clarified butter or ghee, white bread, white rice, cooked fruit, wine and so on.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Similarly, classical Chinese texts routinely express pity for early humans who, without the benefit of agriculture and cooking technology, were forced to eat directly from nature. \"In ancient times,\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.jstor.org/stable/4528996?seq=1#page_scan_tab_contents\">reads the \u003cem>Huainanzi\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \"people ate vegetation and drank from streams; they picked fruit from trees and ate the flesh of shellfish and insects. In those times there was much illness and suffering, as well as injury from poisons.\" Only through the alchemy of cooking\u003cstrong>, \u003c/strong>these Chinese philosophers concluded, could \"rank and putrid foods\" be transformed into something good to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Both in the East and the West there have always been a minority of ascetics who denied themselves cooked, flavorful food and the products of agriculture. But unlike today, such ascetic denial was intended to distance the practitioner from the physical world, nature included. The ideal wasn't unprocessed food, but rather no food at all. Early Daoist tales tell of \"spirit men\" who subsisted entirely on wind and water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Food was flesh and flesh was suffering and fertility,\" \u003ca href=\"https://books.google.com/books?hl=en&lr=&id=9DUgmJGxZyEC&oi=fnd&pg=PP2&dq=christian+monastic+fasting&ots=iBGalbgzSJ&sig=_LAmihPO92N815TUOp29SraAFSY#v=onepage&q=renouncing%20ordinary%20food&f=false\">writes\u003c/a> the scholar Caroline Walker Bynum, describing the attitude of pious medieval Christian women. \"In renouncing ordinary food and directing their being toward the food that is Christ, women moved to God...by abandoning their flawed physicality.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The turn towards redemptive natural foods didn't begin until the 18\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century, when Romantics, led by Rousseau, began looking to the culinary past for guidance. Haute cuisine was blamed for the vices of the rich; country food bred virtuous peasants, their nature unspoiled by human artifice. \"Our appetite is only excessive,\" wrote Rousseau in 1762, \"because we try to impose on it rules other than those of nature.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109186\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/rousseau_custom-fde59d569bf9f279e842025cc4aebf9b9b7991ff-s300-c85.jpg\" alt='In the 18th century Jean Jacques Rousseau, the high priest of the Romantics, sought redemption in natural foods. \"Our appetite is only excessive,\" wrote Rousseau in 1762, \"because we try to impose on it rules other than those of nature.\"' width=\"300\" height=\"417\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109186\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In the 18th century Jean Jacques Rousseau, the high priest of the Romantics, sought redemption in natural foods. \"Our appetite is only excessive,\" wrote Rousseau in 1762, \"because we try to impose on it rules other than those of nature.\" \u003ccite>(Maurice Quentin de La Tour/Wikimedia Commons )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But among those who favored the culinary dictates of nature, there was little agreement upon their content. For Rousseau, it was vegetarianism: \"One of the proofs that the taste of flesh is not natural to man is the indifference which children exhibit for that sort of meat.\" This idea gained traction in the 19\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century, most famously in poet Percy Bysshe Shelley's 1813 essay \u003cem>A Vindication of Natural Diet\u003c/em>, which blamed flesh-eating — \"unnatural diet\" — for a litany of woes including disease, crime and depravity. Some physicians were convinced, but many others continued to emphasize the centrality of meat to our natural diets. A popular medical text of the late 19\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003ca href=\"https://books.google.com/books?id=moMfAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA108&dq=%22natural+diet%22+meat&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi1u7S8lMDMAhXI6CYKHdbuAgcQ6AEIITAB#v=onepage&q=%22natural%20diet%22%20meat&f=false\">expresses the tension\u003c/a> in a section that could easily apply today:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"On my table are two books on the diet question, written by two well-known physicians. One proves at great length that the natural diet of man is the vegetable diet. Meat, this author claims, is unnecessary and injurious. ... The other author differs from the forgoing very radically. In his view the natural diet of the normal man is largely flesh food. When doctors disagree who shall decide?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Only with the dominance of mechanized food production did the argument over \"natural\" begin to focus on the deleterious effects of processing, and come to look something like what it does in the FDA comments. In the mid-19th century, health food pioneer Sylvester Graham (of graham cracker fame) advocated for vegetarianism, but also for the superiority of whole grains and natural, unprocessed foods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It is nearly certain that the primitive inhabitants of the earth ate their food with very little, if any artificial preparation,\" \u003ca href=\"https://books.google.com/books?id=JkIPAQAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=sylvester+graham+flour&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjv8q6CmcDMAhUDMyYKHSg2AiEQ6AEIHDAA#v=onepage&q=natural%20state&f=false\">he wrote\u003c/a> approvingly, in stark contrast to the ancient Chinese. \"Food in its natural state would be the best.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the same period, food chemistry exploded — accompanied by concerns over dangerous chemicals. In her \u003ca href=\"https://jhupbooks.press.jhu.edu/content/refined-tastes\">history of sugar\u003c/a>, Wendy Woloson reports that as early as the 1830s, the medical journal \u003cem>The Lancet\u003c/em> carried articles warning about popular British candies, exported to America, that were adulterated with \"red oxide of lead, chromate of lead, and red suphuret of mercury.\" These candy makers also used cheap, poisonous dyes to attract children. Nor was it just children: People suffered the ill effects of \u003ca href=\"http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/adulteration-of-beer-with-strychnin/\">strychnine\u003c/a> in beer, \u003ca href=\"https://books.google.com/books?id=Rkc3AAAAMAAJ&pg=PA646&lpg=PA646&dq=suphate+of+copper+pickles+poison&source=bl&ots=qAZSeJQG9k&sig=ytD_fyAa44TWUKwhydglBdZNl6A&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjnlJ-JocDMAhWG2SYKHeE0CWwQ6AEIHzAA#v=onepage&q=suphate%20of%20copp\">sulphate of copper\u003c/a> in pickles, and countless other poisonous additives that proliferated in a largely unregulated food industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Notwithstanding increased oversight — most prominently the 1906 establishment of the FDA —20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century agricultural developments brought additional concerns. In her 1960s bestseller \u003cem>Silent Spring\u003c/em>, Rachel Carson called attention not only to the environmental harms of pesticide use, but also to their presence in our foods. \"Packaged foods in warehouses are subjected to repeated aerosol treatments with DDT, lindane, and other insecticides, which may penetrate the packaging materials,\" she wrote. To make matters worse, Carson warned that the government was powerless to protect us: \"The activities of the Food and Drug Administration in the field of consumer protection against pesticides are severely limited.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given the last hundred years of food history, it's hard not to sympathize with those who venerate natural food. Medical authorities have come to agree with Graham on the benefits of whole grains. Diets rich in highly refined carbohydrates – the kind found in cookies, chips and other processed snack foods – and sugary drinks are implicated in rising obesity rates and related health problems. Meanwhile, \u003ca href=\"http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/chemical-tainted-food/\">articles\u003c/a> run on a \u003ca href=\"https://www.publichealth.uga.edu/ehs/news/chemical-exposure-could-lead-obesity-uga-study-finds\">near daily basis\u003c/a> about the potential dangers of synthetic chemicals used to produce and package these foods. The powerful corporate giants that produce them spend heavily to influence science and public policy. Worst of all, there appears to be a \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodpolitics.com/?s=revolving+door\">revolving door\u003c/a> between the companies and regulatory agencies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's no wonder that people are scared. Skepticism seems warranted — which means that faith in the most recent incarnation of \"natural\" food, far from being irrational religiosity or a relic of the romantic past, might be a good way to keep ourselves and our families safe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109189\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/rachelcarson_custom-86fe41fd1487a6ae2a19073013f2aba1b82dad9f-s800-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Silent Spring author Rachel Carson testifies before a Senate panel on pesticides in 1963.\" width=\"800\" height=\"548\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109189\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/rachelcarson_custom-86fe41fd1487a6ae2a19073013f2aba1b82dad9f-s800-c85.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/rachelcarson_custom-86fe41fd1487a6ae2a19073013f2aba1b82dad9f-s800-c85-400x274.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/rachelcarson_custom-86fe41fd1487a6ae2a19073013f2aba1b82dad9f-s800-c85-768x526.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Silent Spring author Rachel Carson testifies before a Senate panel on pesticides in 1963. \u003ccite>(AP)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Despite these legitimate concerns, the long and checkered history of natural cautions against an uncritical embrace of the term, especially as some kind of panacea.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Philosophers warn of the \"appeal to nature\" fallacy, in which good is equated with natural. In addition, there seem to be nearly insurmountable difficulties with defining the term in the first place. Even the well-known food writer and activist Michael Pollan sees no real way forward. Confronted by \"such edible oxymorons as 'natural' Cheetos Puffs,\" he \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2015/05/03/magazine/why-natural-doesnt-mean-anything-anymore.html?_r=0\">throws up his hands\u003c/a>: \"Nature, if you believe in human exceptionalism, is over. We probably ought to search somewhere else for our values.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nevertheless, in the very same essay, Pollan indicates that some common sense version of natural really should guide our choices. It's not hard, he says, to figure out which of two things is more natural: \"Cane sugar or high-fructose corn syrup? Chicken or chicken nuggets? GMOs or heirloom seeds?\" The opposite of natural, on his reading, is artificial or synthetic, and it's clear that the former should be preferred to the latter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But is that really true? I interviewed philosophers and chemists to see if there was some kind of consensus on the matter. It turns out that those who think professionally about the issue are no less confused or divided than the rest of us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the philosophers. \u003ca href=\"http://www.hope.edu/academic/philosophy/faculty/\">Joseph LaPorte\u003c/a> of Hope College specializes in the language we use to classify the natural world and has written extensively on the idea of \"nature\" and \"naturalness.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"To be sure, natural doesn't mean safe,\" he told me. \"Nature produces some of the most formidable toxins in the world. But when it comes to packages of chemicals, as they exist in foods or fragrances, nature is a good bet, or at least a clue, because coevolution often suggests its safety and efficacy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109191\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/cheetos.jpg\" alt='\"Natural\" Cheetos: an edible oxymoron?' width=\"800\" height=\"532\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109191\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/cheetos.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/cheetos-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/cheetos-768x511.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Natural\" Cheetos: an edible oxymoron? \u003ccite>(Daniel Acker/Bloomberg via Getty Images )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not so fast, says York University's \u003ca href=\"http://www.yorku.ca/khalidi/\">Muhammad Ali Khalidi\u003c/a>, also a philosopher of science who specializes in classificatory language. \"Something very recent might be safe,\" he points out, \"and something that's been around for hundreds of years could be very dangerous.\" Case in point: Aryuveda, or traditional Indian medicine, has long prescribed herbal remedies that \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2015/07/31/428016419/toxic-lead-contaminates-some-traditional-ayurvedic-medicines\">contain dangerous heavy metals\u003c/a>. Smoked meats, a mainstay of non-industrial food production, are now known \u003ca href=\"http://www.cancer.gov/about-cancer/causes-prevention/risk/diet/cooked-meats-fact-sheet\">to increase cancer risk\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nor is the lack of consensus limited to the safety of natural food. Scientists also disagree on whether it makes sense to distinguish natural from synthetic products at all. Richard Sachleben, an organic chemist, told me flat-out that all chemicals are natural. Petroleum, he explained, was originally algae. Coal used to be forests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The natural enthusiasts, they like to distinguish things based on origin,\" he says. \"But that doesn't make any sense. Think about this: I could raise a pig in my backyard, and feed it corn that I grow myself. I could slaughter the pig and render the fat. I could ferment my corn and distill out the ethanol. Then I could boil wood ash, put this all together, and make bio-diesel. It would look no different chemically than if I used products derived from petroleum.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when I talked to Susie Bautista, a long-time flavor chemist turned \u003ca href=\"http://flavorscientist.com/author/flavorgal07/\">blogger\u003c/a>, she had no problem distinguishing between natural flavors —\"which are made with natural starting material, like fruits, roots, leaves and bark\"— and artificial flavors that are synthesized, bottom-up, out of chemical building blocks derived from sources like petrochemicals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think it's entirely reasonable to want natural flavors,\" she says. \"As a Mom and a consumer, I would lean towards natural flavors.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What, then, should we take from all this? If nothing else, the issues surrounding \"natural\" do not admit of easy answers. Those who shop for natural foods and fear \"chemicals\" are not necessarily irrational or anti-science. They shouldn't be mocked by (well-meaning) satirists who \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dihydrogen_monoxide_hoax\">refer to water\u003c/a> as dihydrogen monoxide or list the \u003ca href=\"http://resources3.news.com.au/images/2014/01/21/1226806/789895-2e77d7cc-823a-11e3-8c0a-8e0465bef8c3.jpg\">chemical contents\u003c/a> of an \"all-natural\" banana. At the same time, there's no good evidence that \u003ca href=\"http://groundedparents.com/2016/05/04/dont-share-robyn-obrien-posts/?utm_content=buffer4cb67&utm_medium=social&utm_source=twitter.com&utm_campaign=buffer\">parents\u003c/a> who eschew natural food and embrace GMOs are poisoning their children. Industrial agriculture, whatever its defects, shouldn't be confused with the \u003ca href=\"http://religiondispatches.org/is-monsanto-satan-the-pleasure-and-problem-of-conspiracy-theory/\">work of (Mon) Satan\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No one put the situation better than novelist John Steinbeck, who ruefully recognized these opposing perspectives within himself:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"Even while I protest the assembly-line production of our food, our songs, our language, and eventually our souls, I know that it was a rare home that baked good bread in the old days. Mother's cooking was with rare exceptions poor, that good unpasteurized milk touched only by flies and bits of manure crawled with bacteria, the healthy old-time life was riddled with aches, sudden death from unknown causes, and that sweet local speech I mourn was the child of illiteracy and ignorance.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Indeed, it's this conflicted understanding of natural, tempered by tolerance and compassion, that I heard from Nobel-Prize-winning chemist \u003ca href=\"http://www.nobelprize.org/nobel_prizes/chemistry/laureates/1981/hoffmann-bio.html\">Roald Hoffmann\u003c/a>. In addition to his accomplishments as a scientist, Hoffmann is a prolific poet and playwright who has written extensively on the intersection of science and religion, and the meaning of \"natural.\" During our long conversation he expressed sympathy for both sides of the debate, and maintained that there were no easy answers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Agriculture itself is the greatest invention for manipulating the natural and changing it that the world has ever known,\" says Hoffman. \"I would like people to be aware of that, and the chemical basis for it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nevertheless, he also maintained that everyone, laypeople and scientists alike, is attracted to what is natural — a claim \u003ca href=\"http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0195666304000455\">that has\u003c/a> \u003ca href=\"http://mdm.sagepub.com/content/18/4/406.short\">empirical support\u003c/a>. For Hoffmann, natural isn't just about healthfulness, or the environment. It isn't a matter of physical identity. Even if synthetic diamonds are completely indistinguishable from geologically produced diamonds, the origin story matters: They are the same and not the same (which is also the title of one of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Same-Not-Roald-Hoffmann/dp/0231101384/ref=mt_hardcover?_encoding=UTF8&me=\">Hoffmann's books\u003c/a>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Did he prefer natural products himself, I wondered?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I would like to believe there is something to the construction of natural as good for us and Earth,\" he replied after a long pause, and then laughed. \"I know my wife believes so!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ultimately, Hoffmann thinks that fear, however irrational, can only be tempered with empowerment. \"No amount of knowledge, no matter how skillfully and widely taught, will assuage fear of the synthetic,\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.roaldhoffmann.com/sites/all/files/natural_unnatural.pdf\">he argues\u003c/a>, \"unless people feel that they have something to say, politically, in the use of the materials that frighten them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It is for this reason that we should applaud the FDA's current project, difficult though it may be. All of us would do well to browse the submissions, either to increase our understanding of faith that differs from our own, or to reflect on the faith that we already hold. After doing so, perhaps you'll be inspired to submit your own reflection, and together — the same and not the same — we will muddle onward in humanity's long journey towards unraveling the riddle of \"natural.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Alan Levinovitz is an assistant professor of religion at James Madison University and the author of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Gluten-Lie-Other-Myths/dp/1941393063/ref=tmm_hrd_title_0?ie=UTF8&qid=1430947149&sr=8-1\">The Gluten Lie\u003c/a>\u003cem>. He is currently working on a book about the meaning of \"natural.\" Follow him: @alanlevinovitz \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/109175/what-is-natural-food-a-riddle-wrapped-in-notions-of-good-and-evil","authors":["byline_bayareabites_109175"],"categories":["bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_2608","bayareabites_10774","bayareabites_15448","bayareabites_13797"],"featImg":"bayareabites_109176","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_87432":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_87432","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"87432","score":null,"sort":[1410479095000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"can-you-trust-natural","title":"Can You Trust The \"Natural\" Label on Food Products?","publishDate":1410479095,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87439\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 610px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/funny_food_labels_by_tiffany_terry.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/funny_food_labels_by_tiffany_terry.jpg\" alt=\"Funny Food labels. Photo: Tiffany Terry/Flickr\" width=\"610\" height=\"407\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87439\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Funny Food labels. Photo: \u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/35168673@N03/5782038776/in/photolist-9NWsFJ-56aZTG-bLz1e6-biSbFH-8HbhwF-dY7ynP-htGXNQ-fH2LyU-jTzyPB-fypQxi-2kjiFu-5bzfyL-8varws-a3PXJs-4E1mdd-nvYXXK-9S24eW-efRNXE-71YS9q-arEbnQ-7E8Avw-7SZppR-hjHhNL-7swMxo-7E8AQG-2HccJC-rbTjw-8GucHq-8Gr2cT-8GucDb-LadAS-78ZJQv-4UZeLA-7ssP2R-7FvgUh-6r9yTE-6r5pcR-6r5onz-6r9zi5-6r9yfU-6r9y8W-6r5ooe-6r5p2K-6r9zhj-6r5nWR-6r9y3C-6r9y1G-6r9ymh-6r5p1R-6r9ypy\" target=\"_blank\">Tiffany Terry/Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Post by Brie Mazurek,\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/article/can-you-trust-natural\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>CUESA\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (9/5/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you think the “natural” label means that a food product contains no artificial ingredients, pesticides, antibiotics, or GMOs, you’re mistaken—but you’re not alone. According to a recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.takepart.com/article/2014/06/16/consumer-reports\" target=\"_blank\">Consumer Reports survey\u003c/a>, 59% of consumers seek out the natural label, despite the fact that it has little or no meaning in the marketplace and no federal or third-party standards or verification.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We spoke with Urvashi Rangan, PhD, executive director of the Consumer Reports Food Safety & Sustainability Center, to learn more about sneaky food labels and a \u003ca href=\"https://takeaction.takepart.com/actions/stop-confusing-consumers-ban-the-natural-label\" target=\"_blank\">campaign to ban the term “natural.”\u003c/a> On September 19, you can join \u003ca href=\"https://sites.google.com/a/consumer.org/consumer-reports-food-label-conference/\" target=\"_blank\">Consumer Reports’ “American’s Most Wanted Labels” conference\u003c/a> to find out which labels you can or can’t trust, and learn about efforts to bring credibility to food labels for animal welfare, fair trade, and sustainability.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: Tell us about your work on food labels at Consumer Reports.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Urvashi Rangan:\u003c/strong> We have been looking at the landscape of eco-labels in food for some time now to see which labels really add value and how much. We have spent a lot of time watchdogging the organic label over the last 15 years and working with the USDA grass-fed claim to make sure those standards are meaningful. We’ve always been supportive of the fact that there’s a continuum of sustainability out there, and credible labeling is a way to move the sustainable marketplace.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: What does the word “natural” mean on a food product?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>UV:\u003c/strong> The “natural” label on food doesn’t have a whole lot of meaning. On meat, it means nothing artificial is added to the cut of meat itself, but that’s woefully short of consumer expectations. An overwhelming majority say that they think that “natural” means no artificial ingredients and no pesticides—all things one would think a “natural” product ought to be. Poll after poll shows that people think the natural label means more than it does, and recent polling shows that about one-third of consumers think natural and organic mean the same thing, when they don’t.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: Tell us about the campaign to ban the word “natural” on food products. Why ban it instead of demanding better standards?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>UV:\u003c/strong> We already have an entire organic program, which took an act of Congress to pass and 12 years to get into regulation so that it’s now a verified label. Organic is not perfect, but it provides a way to hold food producers accountable. There isn’t the same mechanism for “natural” at all. There are virtually no standards behind it and no premarket verification, so why waste time and taxpayer dollars when we already have the organic framework?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the last few years we’ve had over 200 lawsuits filed on misleading “natural” products that contain GMOs, artificial colors, flavors, preservatives, and so on. When the courts asked the FDA to define the term and stop tying up the courts, the FDA respectfully declined. So what we would like them to do then is just ban it, so that the credible labels can compete effectively and get better over time. They can’t do that when the marketplace is flooded with noisy claims like “natural” that don’t mean anything.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: If “natural” is banned, won’t food manufacturers adapt and use other unregulated terms like “simple,” “pure,” and “real”?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87441\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/urvashi_rangan.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/urvashi_rangan.jpg\" alt=\"Urvashi Rangan, PhD, executive director of the Consumer Reports Food Safety & Sustainability Center. Photo courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"250\" height=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87441\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Urvashi Rangan, PhD, executive director of the Consumer Reports Food Safety & Sustainability Center. Photo courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>UV:\u003c/strong> That’s part of our greater effort in trying to get rid of greenwashing in the marketplace, which is going to have to come from agencies like the Federal Trade Commission, whose entire job is to prevent deceptive and misleading business practices. We need better coordination at the government level to make sure deceptive labels don’t get out there. In the meantime, we’re going to have to tackle them label by label. “Natural” is the biggest offender, but it’s the first in line of many labels that don’t mean anything, such as “free range,” “no nitrates,” “hypoallergenic,” and “fragrance free.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Companies change their marketing strategies all the time. The burgeoning of “natural” on the market suggests that companies know that they can make a premium on that label. They know that label is appealing to consumers and yet they don’t have to do very much to put it on their package.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: As a result of a class-action lawsuit last year, Naked Juice \u003ca href=\"http://www.takepart.com/article/2013/07/18/naked-juice-settles-lawsuit\" target=\"_blank\">dropped the word “natural”\u003c/a> from their labels. What role do the courts and public consumer pressure play in policing some of these misleading labels?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>UV:\u003c/strong> There have been a lot of lawsuits, and often what it comes down to is the FDA doesn’t have any standards, so there’s nothing to enforce. Almost every judge has had to come up with standards, which is a backward approach. Consumers have not really had the right to take on companies in this space, until \u003ca href=\"http://notinmyfood.org/posts/4088-a-win-for-pom-is-a-win-for-consumers\" target=\"_blank\">POM vs. Minute Maid (Coca-Cola)\u003c/a>. There was a landmark decision by the Supreme Court that essentially said that even if the FDA says a claim is not misleading, that doesn’t mean it’s not. Now people will actually have the right to sue for being misled. That will be pivotal in cases going forward.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What’s most problematic is how much time and money gets tied up in these court cases for something that clearly needs better definition. It’s interesting that it’s taken public opinion to start to shift what the court’s opinion ought to be, and I’m hoping that we’ll see some of that trickle down in terms of better regulations, but no one should hold their breath.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: What advice do you have for consumers who want to see better regulation of these labels?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>UV:\u003c/strong> We’ve been trying to give consumers the information to empower them to make better decisions (see \u003ca href=\"http://www.greenerchoices.org/eco-labels/eco-home.cfm?redirect=1\" target=\"_blank\">eco-labels.org\u003c/a>). This campaign is really about getting consumers involved in telling the government what they want. When we started this work 15 years ago, the questions consumers had were, “Is that label meaningful? Is it verified? Is it consistent?” What we know now is we’ve got a more sophisticated consumer who wants to know what these labels mean in terms of GMOs in seed, ammonia levels in chicken coops, slaughter practices and transport, or humane treatment. If we can give people the ability to make those decisions in a more informed way, then this campaign will be a success.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: What can we look forward to at the food labels conference on September 19?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>UV:\u003c/strong> I think everybody will take something away from the conference. We’re taking a very deep dive into animal welfare and worker welfare. We’re talking with the first chair of the National Organic Standards Board about where the label has been and where it’s going. We’re going to talk to farmers about their challenges in terms of being on the progressive edge, and certifiers who are really doing amazing work to hold the gold standard. We’re trying to show the bright side out there. Having people be better educated will allow them to ask better questions, which will allow the market to, we hope, improve over time.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"If you think the “natural” label means that a food product contains no artificial ingredients, pesticides, antibiotics, or GMOs, you’re mistaken—but you’re not alone. CUESA spoke with Urvashi Rangan, PhD, executive director of the Consumer Reports Food Safety & Sustainability Center, to learn more about sneaky food labels and a campaign to ban the term “natural.”","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1410482072,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":22,"wordCount":1329},"headData":{"title":"Can You Trust The \"Natural\" Label on Food Products? | KQED","description":"If you think the “natural” label means that a food product contains no artificial ingredients, pesticides, antibiotics, or GMOs, you’re mistaken—but you’re not alone. CUESA spoke with Urvashi Rangan, PhD, executive director of the Consumer Reports Food Safety & Sustainability Center, to learn more about sneaky food labels and a campaign to ban the term “natural.”","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Can You Trust The \"Natural\" Label on Food Products?","datePublished":"2014-09-11T23:44:55.000Z","dateModified":"2014-09-12T00:34:32.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"87432 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=87432","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/09/11/can-you-trust-natural/","disqusTitle":"Can You Trust The \"Natural\" Label on Food Products?","path":"/bayareabites/87432/can-you-trust-natural","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87439\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 610px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/funny_food_labels_by_tiffany_terry.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/funny_food_labels_by_tiffany_terry.jpg\" alt=\"Funny Food labels. Photo: Tiffany Terry/Flickr\" width=\"610\" height=\"407\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87439\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Funny Food labels. Photo: \u003ca href=\"https://www.flickr.com/photos/35168673@N03/5782038776/in/photolist-9NWsFJ-56aZTG-bLz1e6-biSbFH-8HbhwF-dY7ynP-htGXNQ-fH2LyU-jTzyPB-fypQxi-2kjiFu-5bzfyL-8varws-a3PXJs-4E1mdd-nvYXXK-9S24eW-efRNXE-71YS9q-arEbnQ-7E8Avw-7SZppR-hjHhNL-7swMxo-7E8AQG-2HccJC-rbTjw-8GucHq-8Gr2cT-8GucDb-LadAS-78ZJQv-4UZeLA-7ssP2R-7FvgUh-6r9yTE-6r5pcR-6r5onz-6r9zi5-6r9yfU-6r9y8W-6r5ooe-6r5p2K-6r9zhj-6r5nWR-6r9y3C-6r9y1G-6r9ymh-6r5p1R-6r9ypy\" target=\"_blank\">Tiffany Terry/Flickr\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Post by Brie Mazurek,\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/article/can-you-trust-natural\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>CUESA\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (9/5/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you think the “natural” label means that a food product contains no artificial ingredients, pesticides, antibiotics, or GMOs, you’re mistaken—but you’re not alone. According to a recent \u003ca href=\"http://www.takepart.com/article/2014/06/16/consumer-reports\" target=\"_blank\">Consumer Reports survey\u003c/a>, 59% of consumers seek out the natural label, despite the fact that it has little or no meaning in the marketplace and no federal or third-party standards or verification.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We spoke with Urvashi Rangan, PhD, executive director of the Consumer Reports Food Safety & Sustainability Center, to learn more about sneaky food labels and a \u003ca href=\"https://takeaction.takepart.com/actions/stop-confusing-consumers-ban-the-natural-label\" target=\"_blank\">campaign to ban the term “natural.”\u003c/a> On September 19, you can join \u003ca href=\"https://sites.google.com/a/consumer.org/consumer-reports-food-label-conference/\" target=\"_blank\">Consumer Reports’ “American’s Most Wanted Labels” conference\u003c/a> to find out which labels you can or can’t trust, and learn about efforts to bring credibility to food labels for animal welfare, fair trade, and sustainability.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: Tell us about your work on food labels at Consumer Reports.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Urvashi Rangan:\u003c/strong> We have been looking at the landscape of eco-labels in food for some time now to see which labels really add value and how much. We have spent a lot of time watchdogging the organic label over the last 15 years and working with the USDA grass-fed claim to make sure those standards are meaningful. We’ve always been supportive of the fact that there’s a continuum of sustainability out there, and credible labeling is a way to move the sustainable marketplace.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: What does the word “natural” mean on a food product?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>UV:\u003c/strong> The “natural” label on food doesn’t have a whole lot of meaning. On meat, it means nothing artificial is added to the cut of meat itself, but that’s woefully short of consumer expectations. An overwhelming majority say that they think that “natural” means no artificial ingredients and no pesticides—all things one would think a “natural” product ought to be. Poll after poll shows that people think the natural label means more than it does, and recent polling shows that about one-third of consumers think natural and organic mean the same thing, when they don’t.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: Tell us about the campaign to ban the word “natural” on food products. Why ban it instead of demanding better standards?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>UV:\u003c/strong> We already have an entire organic program, which took an act of Congress to pass and 12 years to get into regulation so that it’s now a verified label. Organic is not perfect, but it provides a way to hold food producers accountable. There isn’t the same mechanism for “natural” at all. There are virtually no standards behind it and no premarket verification, so why waste time and taxpayer dollars when we already have the organic framework?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the last few years we’ve had over 200 lawsuits filed on misleading “natural” products that contain GMOs, artificial colors, flavors, preservatives, and so on. When the courts asked the FDA to define the term and stop tying up the courts, the FDA respectfully declined. So what we would like them to do then is just ban it, so that the credible labels can compete effectively and get better over time. They can’t do that when the marketplace is flooded with noisy claims like “natural” that don’t mean anything.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: If “natural” is banned, won’t food manufacturers adapt and use other unregulated terms like “simple,” “pure,” and “real”?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_87441\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/urvashi_rangan.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/09/urvashi_rangan.jpg\" alt=\"Urvashi Rangan, PhD, executive director of the Consumer Reports Food Safety & Sustainability Center. Photo courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"250\" height=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-87441\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Urvashi Rangan, PhD, executive director of the Consumer Reports Food Safety & Sustainability Center. Photo courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>UV:\u003c/strong> That’s part of our greater effort in trying to get rid of greenwashing in the marketplace, which is going to have to come from agencies like the Federal Trade Commission, whose entire job is to prevent deceptive and misleading business practices. We need better coordination at the government level to make sure deceptive labels don’t get out there. In the meantime, we’re going to have to tackle them label by label. “Natural” is the biggest offender, but it’s the first in line of many labels that don’t mean anything, such as “free range,” “no nitrates,” “hypoallergenic,” and “fragrance free.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Companies change their marketing strategies all the time. The burgeoning of “natural” on the market suggests that companies know that they can make a premium on that label. They know that label is appealing to consumers and yet they don’t have to do very much to put it on their package.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: As a result of a class-action lawsuit last year, Naked Juice \u003ca href=\"http://www.takepart.com/article/2013/07/18/naked-juice-settles-lawsuit\" target=\"_blank\">dropped the word “natural”\u003c/a> from their labels. What role do the courts and public consumer pressure play in policing some of these misleading labels?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>UV:\u003c/strong> There have been a lot of lawsuits, and often what it comes down to is the FDA doesn’t have any standards, so there’s nothing to enforce. Almost every judge has had to come up with standards, which is a backward approach. Consumers have not really had the right to take on companies in this space, until \u003ca href=\"http://notinmyfood.org/posts/4088-a-win-for-pom-is-a-win-for-consumers\" target=\"_blank\">POM vs. Minute Maid (Coca-Cola)\u003c/a>. There was a landmark decision by the Supreme Court that essentially said that even if the FDA says a claim is not misleading, that doesn’t mean it’s not. Now people will actually have the right to sue for being misled. That will be pivotal in cases going forward.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What’s most problematic is how much time and money gets tied up in these court cases for something that clearly needs better definition. It’s interesting that it’s taken public opinion to start to shift what the court’s opinion ought to be, and I’m hoping that we’ll see some of that trickle down in terms of better regulations, but no one should hold their breath.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: What advice do you have for consumers who want to see better regulation of these labels?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>UV:\u003c/strong> We’ve been trying to give consumers the information to empower them to make better decisions (see \u003ca href=\"http://www.greenerchoices.org/eco-labels/eco-home.cfm?redirect=1\" target=\"_blank\">eco-labels.org\u003c/a>). This campaign is really about getting consumers involved in telling the government what they want. When we started this work 15 years ago, the questions consumers had were, “Is that label meaningful? Is it verified? Is it consistent?” What we know now is we’ve got a more sophisticated consumer who wants to know what these labels mean in terms of GMOs in seed, ammonia levels in chicken coops, slaughter practices and transport, or humane treatment. If we can give people the ability to make those decisions in a more informed way, then this campaign will be a success.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: What can we look forward to at the food labels conference on September 19?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>UV:\u003c/strong> I think everybody will take something away from the conference. We’re taking a very deep dive into animal welfare and worker welfare. We’re talking with the first chair of the National Organic Standards Board about where the label has been and where it’s going. We’re going to talk to farmers about their challenges in terms of being on the progressive edge, and certifiers who are really doing amazing work to hold the gold standard. We’re trying to show the bright side out there. Having people be better educated will allow them to ask better questions, which will allow the market to, we hope, improve over time.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/87432/can-you-trust-natural","authors":["5484"],"categories":["bayareabites_12276","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_13745","bayareabites_10774","bayareabites_13797","bayareabites_11524"],"featImg":"bayareabites_87439","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? 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