How to Support Local Restaurants this Cinco de Mayo
Before Impossible Burgers, the Bay Area Perfected Fake Meats for Decades
Life After Pop-Up: Oakland's Lovely's and San Francisco's Chicáno Nuevo Seek Permanence
5 Fruitvale Food Trucks That Put Regional Mexican Plates on the Map
Oakland’s Tamarindo Antojeria To Close After 14 Years of Regional Mexican Dining
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The Story of Netflix's 'Las Crónicas Del Taco' Is a Bay Area Story Too
Five Late Night Wings, Tacos and Breakfasts Eats In the East Bay
First Taste: A native Oaxacan chef takes the helm at Thomas Keller's La Calenda
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In the food world, it's often associated with margaritas and PR emails about creating your own fiesta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the fifth of May, for the most part, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/pop/23804/think-you-know-what-cinco-de-mayo-means-youre-probably-wrong\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"> commemorates the Battle of Puebla\u003c/a> in 1862. It's a holiday that's \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2012/04/30/151693973/the-truth-about-cinco-de-mayo\">widely celebrated in the U.S\u003c/a>., but it's not something that's a big deal throughout Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what's an appropriate way to celebrate this holiday? For some, it's using the day as a\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/codeswitch/2014/05/02/308624630/cinco-de-mayo-whose-holiday-is-it-anyway\"> reflection on what it means to be Mexican-American\u003c/a>. For others, it may be trying to find local businesses to support, especially during the coronavirus pandemic. That's where this guide comes in. Use it to find new or favorite spots for takeout or delivery.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone wp-image-137080 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/cooked-food-on-blue-plate-2092507-800x534.jpg\" alt=\"Tacos and beans and rice\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/cooked-food-on-blue-plate-2092507-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/cooked-food-on-blue-plate-2092507-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/cooked-food-on-blue-plate-2092507-768x513.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/cooked-food-on-blue-plate-2092507-1020x681.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/h2>\n\u003ch2>San Francisco\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.elbuencomersf.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>El Buen Comer\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef-owner Isabel Caudillo brings traditional Mexico City homecooking to San Francisco with a limited to-go menu that need to be ordered ahead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Sopes de Chicharrón and Rajas con Crema.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.lacanastasf.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>La Canasta\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Cow Hollow, La Canasta has been in the neighborhood since 1987. The restaurant is open for delivery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Arrachera Asada and Cochinita Pibil.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.donpistos.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Don Pistos\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the Union St. location is temporarily closed, Don Pisto's in the Marina is open for delivery via UberEats. The limited Tex-Mex menu features giant tacos, combo plates or a chicken dinner with optional sides.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Coca-Cola carnitas and spicy tamarind margarita.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nopalitosf.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Nopalito\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The well-known Mexican restaurant is open for pickup and delivery. It also offers cold meal kits at the Broderick location. The Ninth Street location is open for call-ahead takeout or delivery via Caviar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Carnitas take-home meal kit or the Tinga de Pollo take-home meal kit.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.taqueriazorro.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Taqueria Zorro\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Currently open for call-in pickups or via delivery partners, this North Beach spot appeals to the late-night crowd. If ordering a burrito, ask for the salsa on the side to prevent sogginess during transport.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Chile Relleno or Mojado burrito.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-137103\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/GettyImages-1173654422-800x532.jpg\" alt=\"Tray of tacos\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/GettyImages-1173654422-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/GettyImages-1173654422-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/GettyImages-1173654422-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/GettyImages-1173654422-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/GettyImages-1173654422.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>East Bay\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/la_grana_fish_oakland/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>La Grana Fish\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The popular food truck recently moved to \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/4/24/21233736/la-grana-fish-quesabirria-fruitvale-aloha-club-takeout-delivery\">a new lot in Fruitvale\u003c/a>, offering its famed quesabirria tacos to go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Quesabirria tacos.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.losmoles.com/\">\u003cstrong>Los Moles\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Typically, the weekend brunch is the way to go at Los Moles. The restaurant has a location in San Rafael and in Emeryville. Both are offering pickup and delivery. Alcoholic beverages must by ordered by phone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Plato de Mole and Pipian and Mama Elena\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nidooakland.com/\">\u003cstrong>Nido\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though Nido offers a Cinco de Mayo box, this Oakland spot also has a specific shelter-in-place menu with large-format cocktails. One option is a $55 family meal for four with a choice of meat and sides.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Mole poblano quesadilla. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.toasttab.com/rico-rico-taco/v3\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Rico Rico Taco\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rico Rico Taco is open for pickup via Toast. This Lakeshore spot is vegetarian friendly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Nopales tacos or huarachito.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.xingones.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Xingones at Fort Green\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For tacos and fried chicken, Xingones is your place. Call or order online for takeout.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Fried Chicken and Waffles, Taquitos de Pollo or Pollo Tin Tin tacos. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone wp-image-137083 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/iStock-959141946-800x308.jpg\" alt=\"Burrito\" width=\"800\" height=\"308\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/iStock-959141946-800x308.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/iStock-959141946-160x62.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/iStock-959141946-768x296.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/iStock-959141946-1020x393.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>South Bay\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.guerrerostaqueria.com/\">\u003cstrong>Guerrero's Taqueria\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Pacifica, this spot is open for takeout, offering a wide variety of options from shrimp quesadillas to a full range of burritos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Al pastor burrito and horchata.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_118885' label='Bay Area Bites Guide to 6 Favorite Taco Spots South of San Francisco']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Mexican-Restaurant/La-Mexicana-aka-the-chicken-163484930352472/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Taqueria La Gallina\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This Half Moon Bay taqueria has a menu that ranges from tacos to fried chicken and burgers. But the fish tacos are what La Gallina is known for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Devil Shrimp or Deep-Fried Shrimp tacos. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-137084\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/iStock-1202297826-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Tostadas\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/iStock-1202297826-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/iStock-1202297826-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/iStock-1202297826-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/iStock-1202297826-1020x680.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>North Bay\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Delicias-Elenita-Taco-Truck/158716947494531\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Delicias Elenitas\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A longtime favorite in Santa Rosa, this truck has stayed open with a full menu and late hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Chicken tacos, elote, or huaraches.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://grillys.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Grilly's\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The popular Marin restaurant is taking call-in takeout orders. The full menu is still available.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Achiote Pork taco.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://lolas-taqueria.business.site/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Lola's Taqueria\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This Marin County Mexican restaurant in Belvedere is vegan and vegetarian friendly. They're open for takeout until 9pm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Chicken tostadas.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.playamv.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Playa\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The trendy Mill Valley restaurant is doing takeout during shelter-in-place. Orders need to be called in. The restaurant also offers to-go cocktails with a takeout order, and has a GoFundMe to help families and staff who need financial assistance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Queso Fundido, Champinon or Grilled Mahi Mahi tacos and the Oaxacan Margarita.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Have a favorite taqueria doing delivery that we didn't include? \u003ca href=\"mailto:uramakrishnan@kqed.org\">Email us.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Our guide to Bay Area Mexican restaurants offering takeout or delivery with tantalizing menu options.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1588702142,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":58,"wordCount":782},"headData":{"title":"16 Bay Area Restaurants to Support this Cinco de Mayo | KQED","description":"Our guide to Bay Area Mexican restaurants offering takeout or delivery with tantalizing menu options.","ogTitle":"This Cinco de Mayo, Order Mexican Food Takeout From These Bay Area Faves","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"How to Support Local Restaurants this Cinco de Mayo","datePublished":"2020-05-05T18:04:16.000Z","dateModified":"2020-05-05T18:09:02.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"137076 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=137076","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/05/05/how-to-support-restaurants-businesses-this-cinco-de-mayo/","disqusTitle":"How to Support Local Restaurants this Cinco de Mayo","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/137076/how-to-support-restaurants-businesses-this-cinco-de-mayo","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Cinco de Mayo is complicated. In the food world, it's often associated with margaritas and PR emails about creating your own fiesta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the fifth of May, for the most part, \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/pop/23804/think-you-know-what-cinco-de-mayo-means-youre-probably-wrong\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"> commemorates the Battle of Puebla\u003c/a> in 1862. It's a holiday that's \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2012/04/30/151693973/the-truth-about-cinco-de-mayo\">widely celebrated in the U.S\u003c/a>., but it's not something that's a big deal throughout Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what's an appropriate way to celebrate this holiday? For some, it's using the day as a\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/codeswitch/2014/05/02/308624630/cinco-de-mayo-whose-holiday-is-it-anyway\"> reflection on what it means to be Mexican-American\u003c/a>. For others, it may be trying to find local businesses to support, especially during the coronavirus pandemic. That's where this guide comes in. Use it to find new or favorite spots for takeout or delivery.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone wp-image-137080 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/cooked-food-on-blue-plate-2092507-800x534.jpg\" alt=\"Tacos and beans and rice\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/cooked-food-on-blue-plate-2092507-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/cooked-food-on-blue-plate-2092507-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/cooked-food-on-blue-plate-2092507-768x513.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/cooked-food-on-blue-plate-2092507-1020x681.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/h2>\n\u003ch2>San Francisco\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.elbuencomersf.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>El Buen Comer\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef-owner Isabel Caudillo brings traditional Mexico City homecooking to San Francisco with a limited to-go menu that need to be ordered ahead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Sopes de Chicharrón and Rajas con Crema.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.lacanastasf.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>La Canasta\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Cow Hollow, La Canasta has been in the neighborhood since 1987. The restaurant is open for delivery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Arrachera Asada and Cochinita Pibil.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.donpistos.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Don Pistos\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the Union St. location is temporarily closed, Don Pisto's in the Marina is open for delivery via UberEats. The limited Tex-Mex menu features giant tacos, combo plates or a chicken dinner with optional sides.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Coca-Cola carnitas and spicy tamarind margarita.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nopalitosf.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Nopalito\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The well-known Mexican restaurant is open for pickup and delivery. It also offers cold meal kits at the Broderick location. The Ninth Street location is open for call-ahead takeout or delivery via Caviar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Carnitas take-home meal kit or the Tinga de Pollo take-home meal kit.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.taqueriazorro.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Taqueria Zorro\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Currently open for call-in pickups or via delivery partners, this North Beach spot appeals to the late-night crowd. If ordering a burrito, ask for the salsa on the side to prevent sogginess during transport.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Chile Relleno or Mojado burrito.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-137103\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/GettyImages-1173654422-800x532.jpg\" alt=\"Tray of tacos\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/GettyImages-1173654422-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/GettyImages-1173654422-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/GettyImages-1173654422-768x511.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/GettyImages-1173654422-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/GettyImages-1173654422.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>East Bay\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/la_grana_fish_oakland/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>La Grana Fish\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The popular food truck recently moved to \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2020/4/24/21233736/la-grana-fish-quesabirria-fruitvale-aloha-club-takeout-delivery\">a new lot in Fruitvale\u003c/a>, offering its famed quesabirria tacos to go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Quesabirria tacos.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.losmoles.com/\">\u003cstrong>Los Moles\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Typically, the weekend brunch is the way to go at Los Moles. The restaurant has a location in San Rafael and in Emeryville. Both are offering pickup and delivery. Alcoholic beverages must by ordered by phone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Plato de Mole and Pipian and Mama Elena\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nidooakland.com/\">\u003cstrong>Nido\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though Nido offers a Cinco de Mayo box, this Oakland spot also has a specific shelter-in-place menu with large-format cocktails. One option is a $55 family meal for four with a choice of meat and sides.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Mole poblano quesadilla. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.toasttab.com/rico-rico-taco/v3\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Rico Rico Taco\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rico Rico Taco is open for pickup via Toast. This Lakeshore spot is vegetarian friendly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Nopales tacos or huarachito.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.xingones.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Xingones at Fort Green\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For tacos and fried chicken, Xingones is your place. Call or order online for takeout.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Fried Chicken and Waffles, Taquitos de Pollo or Pollo Tin Tin tacos. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone wp-image-137083 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/iStock-959141946-800x308.jpg\" alt=\"Burrito\" width=\"800\" height=\"308\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/iStock-959141946-800x308.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/iStock-959141946-160x62.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/iStock-959141946-768x296.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/iStock-959141946-1020x393.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>South Bay\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.guerrerostaqueria.com/\">\u003cstrong>Guerrero's Taqueria\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Pacifica, this spot is open for takeout, offering a wide variety of options from shrimp quesadillas to a full range of burritos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Al pastor burrito and horchata.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_118885","label":"Bay Area Bites Guide to 6 Favorite Taco Spots South of San Francisco "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Mexican-Restaurant/La-Mexicana-aka-the-chicken-163484930352472/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Taqueria La Gallina\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This Half Moon Bay taqueria has a menu that ranges from tacos to fried chicken and burgers. But the fish tacos are what La Gallina is known for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Devil Shrimp or Deep-Fried Shrimp tacos. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-137084\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/iStock-1202297826-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Tostadas\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/iStock-1202297826-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/iStock-1202297826-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/iStock-1202297826-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/iStock-1202297826-1020x680.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>North Bay\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Delicias-Elenita-Taco-Truck/158716947494531\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Delicias Elenitas\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A longtime favorite in Santa Rosa, this truck has stayed open with a full menu and late hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Chicken tacos, elote, or huaraches.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://grillys.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Grilly's\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The popular Marin restaurant is taking call-in takeout orders. The full menu is still available.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Achiote Pork taco.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://lolas-taqueria.business.site/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Lola's Taqueria\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This Marin County Mexican restaurant in Belvedere is vegan and vegetarian friendly. They're open for takeout until 9pm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Chicken tostadas.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.playamv.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cstrong>Playa\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The trendy Mill Valley restaurant is doing takeout during shelter-in-place. Orders need to be called in. The restaurant also offers to-go cocktails with a takeout order, and has a GoFundMe to help families and staff who need financial assistance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>What to order: Queso Fundido, Champinon or Grilled Mahi Mahi tacos and the Oaxacan Margarita.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Have a favorite taqueria doing delivery that we didn't include? \u003ca href=\"mailto:uramakrishnan@kqed.org\">Email us.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/137076/how-to-support-restaurants-businesses-this-cinco-de-mayo","authors":["11689"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_9516","bayareabites_957","bayareabites_2258","bayareabites_16575","bayareabites_16557","bayareabites_13420","bayareabites_758","bayareabites_16191","bayareabites_16578","bayareabites_767","bayareabites_12201"],"featImg":"bayareabites_137102","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_136148":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_136148","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"136148","score":null,"sort":[1579745548000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"before-impossible-burgers-the-bay-area-perfected-fake-meats-for-decades","title":"Before Impossible Burgers, the Bay Area Perfected Fake Meats for Decades","publishDate":1579745548,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For a lot of us in the Bay Area, it’s like watching the rest of the country catch up. New waves of lab-engineered alternative proteins are sweeping the nation. They promise to be so much like their meat muses that it’s hard to tell the difference. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Los Angeles’s Beyond Meat has made waves with its rising stocks and its beef, chicken and pork-inspired products. These now include patties and sausages sold at fast food chains like Carl’s Jr. and Subway. The Redwood City-based Impossible Foods first debuted its burger patty at upscale restaurants like Momofuku Nishi in New York and San Francisco’s now-closed Jardinière before scaling up through a partnership with Burger King last year. With their marketing language and their venture capital funding models, both companies are more Silicon Valley than Bay Area natural grocery store.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bay Area history is replete with vegan “meats.” Some, like lentil and black bean burgers, are impossible to mistake with beef. They proudly stand, or rather lay, as legume patties. But for years, a variety of Bay Area restaurants and grocery stores have imitated the fleshy textures of beef, poultry and pork to much success. At Chinese restaurants in the Bay and beyond, vegan meats absorb sauces and hold chew convincingly—even though they’re genetically closer to the broccoli on the plate beside them than any poultry product. In fact, fake meat likely first emerged in \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vice.com/en_asia/article/8xyqqz/origin-of-fake-meat-chinese-cuisine\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chinese cuisine\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> as early as the 7th century. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vegelutiontrading.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Market\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Oakland’s Chinatown, there is no language around “optimized protein,” but rather shelves and fridges full of plant-based proteins, in the shape of chicken nuggets, shrimps and more. The market, which provides wholesale meat substitutes for restaurants all over the Bay Area, including \u003ca href=\"https://rnglounge.com/\">R&G Lounge\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thebutchersson_official/?hl=en\">The Butcher’s Son\u003c/a>, has been around since at least 1996. That’s co-owner Samuel Wong’s estimate. Wong took over the market, which imports a lot of its goods from Taiwan, last January from the now-retired Layonna Wang. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I spent over two months with her before she handed it over to me,” he says. “I was a cashier. I was a delivery driver. She questioned me a lot of times. She doesn’t want people to take over and then end [the business].” Since assuming control, Wong has noticed a big growth in his wholesale business. That includes new customers as well as increased demand from longtime clients. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136156\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136156\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105.jpg\" alt=\"Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Store in Oakland's Chinatown.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-1020x765.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Store in Oakland's Chinatown. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Indeed, the demand for meat-free meat shows no sign of slowing. This year, Impossible Foods is shifting its attention to pork while Beyond Meats eyes chicken as its next big game. Last summer, the latter teased a fried-chicken product at a KFC in Atlanta, which \u003ca href=\"https://techcrunch.com/2019/08/26/kentucky-fried-chicken-goes-beyond-chicken-in-partnership-with-beyond-meat/\">sold out in five hours\u003c/a>. As consumers wait and see what new batches of meat-free alternatives these large-scale companies cook up, Bay Area residents can revisit some old, faithful favorites that serve vegan and vegetarian proteins with flavors from across the world.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>San Francisco\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/rheas-deli-and-market-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Rhea’s Deli\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Mission district deli and sandwich shop, offers two meat-free options, including a marinated “vege-beef” steak sandwich. Their beloved vegan BBQ chicken sandwich features Layonna’s chicken drumsticks dressed with plenty of pickled fixings and chili sauce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/love-n-haight-deli-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Love N’ Haight\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Lower Haight family-run institution, has been serving meat-free dutch crunch sandwiches, salads and various deli sundries for over two decades. Owner Fey Chao and her family, who converted the deli’s menu to fully vegetarian in 2013 according to Hoodline, have kept their prices very accessible. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://goldeneravegan.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Golden Era Vegan Restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> opened in 1999, making it a veteran in the fake meat game. The restaurant serves up dishes with Vietnamese, Chinese, Indian and Thai influences and totally free of any animal products. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Oakland\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/officialveganmob/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegan Mob\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the much buzzed-about Oakland soul food restaurant, boasts hour-long lines even months after its opening last October. The plant-based menu of chef and owner Toriano Gordon features brisket, gumbo and fried chicken. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B7T8qdVAcOl/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/gay4u.biz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gay 4 U\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the second incarnation of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/135485/hella-vegan-eats-is-reborn-in-oakland-as-gay-4-u\">Hella Vegan Eats\u003c/a>, features a few “meat” products, including a chickpea and seitan burger patty and a non-GMO soy chicken and waffle burger. Chef Sofi Espice, who offers free meals for trans people of color, also uses jackfruit in their taco dish at Gay 4 U. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B6qqxF0B6xw/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/aburayaoakland/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Aburaya\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Japanese punk-themed fried chicken spot, has always had a soft spot for vegans since its opening in 2014. All of the restaurant's fried combos come in both cauliflower and Layonna soy-chicken versions with an egg-free miso ranch dressing. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Berkeley\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flacosvegmex/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flacos\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> has been serving up delicious vegan Mexican food since 2010 (and might soon be moving pending a housing development that’s set to take over their lot). Animal-free proteins sourced from Layonna’s can be found in their delicious mole and crispy taquitos.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BECD5fbERqI/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thebutchersson_official/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Butcher’s Son\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> quickly outgrew its outpost on University Avenue and moved up the street to a bigger storefront with a deli market on top of their sandwich operation. According to Berkeleyside, the owners of the restaurant are also planning to take over Pizza Moda, converting it into \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2019/12/10/pizza-moda-to-become-a-sister-vegan-italian-restaurant-for-the-butchers-son\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a vegan Italian restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> set to open this winter. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B6RD-tkgY9o/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/long-life-vegi-house-berkeley?sort_by=date_desc\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Long Live Vegi House\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">’s lunch specials have made loyal fans of East Bay residents. The long-running restaurant recently moved to a new location but has kept the same menu featuring Mongolian beef, Kung Pao chicken and sweet and sour pork, all served with plenty of vegetables. Beware that while the restaurant’s meats are vegetarian, its seafood offerings are really seafood. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"As the rest of the country is swept up by a new wave, Layonna Vegetarian Health Food and others keep on serving tasty meat alternatives.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1579915254,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":1027},"headData":{"title":"Before Impossible Burgers, the Bay Area Perfected Fake Meats for Decades | KQED","description":"As the rest of the country is swept up by a new wave, Layonna Vegetarian Health Food and others keep on serving tasty meat alternatives.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Before Impossible Burgers, the Bay Area Perfected Fake Meats for Decades","datePublished":"2020-01-23T02:12:28.000Z","dateModified":"2020-01-25T01:20:54.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"136148 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=136148","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/01/22/before-impossible-burgers-the-bay-area-perfected-fake-meats-for-decades/","disqusTitle":"Before Impossible Burgers, the Bay Area Perfected Fake Meats for Decades","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/136148/before-impossible-burgers-the-bay-area-perfected-fake-meats-for-decades","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For a lot of us in the Bay Area, it’s like watching the rest of the country catch up. New waves of lab-engineered alternative proteins are sweeping the nation. They promise to be so much like their meat muses that it’s hard to tell the difference. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Los Angeles’s Beyond Meat has made waves with its rising stocks and its beef, chicken and pork-inspired products. These now include patties and sausages sold at fast food chains like Carl’s Jr. and Subway. The Redwood City-based Impossible Foods first debuted its burger patty at upscale restaurants like Momofuku Nishi in New York and San Francisco’s now-closed Jardinière before scaling up through a partnership with Burger King last year. With their marketing language and their venture capital funding models, both companies are more Silicon Valley than Bay Area natural grocery store.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bay Area history is replete with vegan “meats.” Some, like lentil and black bean burgers, are impossible to mistake with beef. They proudly stand, or rather lay, as legume patties. But for years, a variety of Bay Area restaurants and grocery stores have imitated the fleshy textures of beef, poultry and pork to much success. At Chinese restaurants in the Bay and beyond, vegan meats absorb sauces and hold chew convincingly—even though they’re genetically closer to the broccoli on the plate beside them than any poultry product. In fact, fake meat likely first emerged in \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vice.com/en_asia/article/8xyqqz/origin-of-fake-meat-chinese-cuisine\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Chinese cuisine\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> as early as the 7th century. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.vegelutiontrading.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Market\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Oakland’s Chinatown, there is no language around “optimized protein,” but rather shelves and fridges full of plant-based proteins, in the shape of chicken nuggets, shrimps and more. The market, which provides wholesale meat substitutes for restaurants all over the Bay Area, including \u003ca href=\"https://rnglounge.com/\">R&G Lounge\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thebutchersson_official/?hl=en\">The Butcher’s Son\u003c/a>, has been around since at least 1996. That’s co-owner Samuel Wong’s estimate. Wong took over the market, which imports a lot of its goods from Taiwan, last January from the now-retired Layonna Wang. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“I spent over two months with her before she handed it over to me,” he says. “I was a cashier. I was a delivery driver. She questioned me a lot of times. She doesn’t want people to take over and then end [the business].” Since assuming control, Wong has noticed a big growth in his wholesale business. That includes new customers as well as increased demand from longtime clients. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136156\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136156\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105.jpg\" alt=\"Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Store in Oakland's Chinatown.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/IMG_1105-1020x765.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Layonna Vegetarian Health Food Store in Oakland's Chinatown. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Indeed, the demand for meat-free meat shows no sign of slowing. This year, Impossible Foods is shifting its attention to pork while Beyond Meats eyes chicken as its next big game. Last summer, the latter teased a fried-chicken product at a KFC in Atlanta, which \u003ca href=\"https://techcrunch.com/2019/08/26/kentucky-fried-chicken-goes-beyond-chicken-in-partnership-with-beyond-meat/\">sold out in five hours\u003c/a>. As consumers wait and see what new batches of meat-free alternatives these large-scale companies cook up, Bay Area residents can revisit some old, faithful favorites that serve vegan and vegetarian proteins with flavors from across the world.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>San Francisco\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/rheas-deli-and-market-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Rhea’s Deli\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Mission district deli and sandwich shop, offers two meat-free options, including a marinated “vege-beef” steak sandwich. Their beloved vegan BBQ chicken sandwich features Layonna’s chicken drumsticks dressed with plenty of pickled fixings and chili sauce. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/love-n-haight-deli-san-francisco\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Love N’ Haight\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Lower Haight family-run institution, has been serving meat-free dutch crunch sandwiches, salads and various deli sundries for over two decades. Owner Fey Chao and her family, who converted the deli’s menu to fully vegetarian in 2013 according to Hoodline, have kept their prices very accessible. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://goldeneravegan.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Golden Era Vegan Restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> opened in 1999, making it a veteran in the fake meat game. The restaurant serves up dishes with Vietnamese, Chinese, Indian and Thai influences and totally free of any animal products. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Oakland\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/officialveganmob/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Vegan Mob\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the much buzzed-about Oakland soul food restaurant, boasts hour-long lines even months after its opening last October. The plant-based menu of chef and owner Toriano Gordon features brisket, gumbo and fried chicken. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B7T8qdVAcOl"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/gay4u.biz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Gay 4 U\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the second incarnation of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/135485/hella-vegan-eats-is-reborn-in-oakland-as-gay-4-u\">Hella Vegan Eats\u003c/a>, features a few “meat” products, including a chickpea and seitan burger patty and a non-GMO soy chicken and waffle burger. Chef Sofi Espice, who offers free meals for trans people of color, also uses jackfruit in their taco dish at Gay 4 U. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B6qqxF0B6xw"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/aburayaoakland/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Aburaya\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Japanese punk-themed fried chicken spot, has always had a soft spot for vegans since its opening in 2014. All of the restaurant's fried combos come in both cauliflower and Layonna soy-chicken versions with an egg-free miso ranch dressing. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Berkeley\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/flacosvegmex/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Flacos\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> has been serving up delicious vegan Mexican food since 2010 (and might soon be moving pending a housing development that’s set to take over their lot). Animal-free proteins sourced from Layonna’s can be found in their delicious mole and crispy taquitos.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"BECD5fbERqI"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/thebutchersson_official/?hl=en\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The Butcher’s Son\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> quickly outgrew its outpost on University Avenue and moved up the street to a bigger storefront with a deli market on top of their sandwich operation. According to Berkeleyside, the owners of the restaurant are also planning to take over Pizza Moda, converting it into \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2019/12/10/pizza-moda-to-become-a-sister-vegan-italian-restaurant-for-the-butchers-son\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">a vegan Italian restaurant\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> set to open this winter. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B6RD-tkgY9o"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/long-life-vegi-house-berkeley?sort_by=date_desc\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Long Live Vegi House\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">’s lunch specials have made loyal fans of East Bay residents. The long-running restaurant recently moved to a new location but has kept the same menu featuring Mongolian beef, Kung Pao chicken and sweet and sour pork, all served with plenty of vegetables. Beware that while the restaurant’s meats are vegetarian, its seafood offerings are really seafood. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/136148/before-impossible-burgers-the-bay-area-perfected-fake-meats-for-decades","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_264","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_181","bayareabites_60","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_14751","bayareabites_2386","bayareabites_9710","bayareabites_13931","bayareabites_330","bayareabites_758","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_9714","bayareabites_14745","bayareabites_1180","bayareabites_1871","bayareabites_13973"],"featImg":"bayareabites_136153","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_135968":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_135968","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"135968","score":null,"sort":[1576704458000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"life-after-pop-up-oaklands-lovelys-and-san-franciscos-chicano-nuevo-seek-permanence","title":"Life After Pop-Up: Oakland's Lovely's and San Francisco's Chicáno Nuevo Seek Permanence","publishDate":1576704458,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>The line at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lovelys__oakland/\">Lovely’s\u003c/a> stretched for two blocks, past other eateries, when the Oakland burger joint popped up at Tacos Oscar after a month-long hiatus this September. Those who decided to brave the wait wouldn’t get a bite for hours. “People are telling me, ‘Congratulations.’ And I hated that experience,” remembers Mikey Yoon, the chef behind Lovely’s. “I don't want people to wait three hours for a five-dollar burger.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_127083,bayareabites_133040' label='More pop-ups around the Bay']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The scene may seem both exciting and daunting for any chef, but it’s especially challenging for pop-up chefs who cook in unfamiliar kitchens with limited storage and a modest staff (if any at all), while competing with their nomadic peers and established brick-and-mortar restaurants for the attention of patrons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“To have a successful one-off pop-up, you have to knock it out of the park,” Yoon says. “There [are] so many things involved. There’s people that are helping me out that day. How much have they worked with me? How hard is the process? They’re also in a new setting.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For me, consistency is super key. You want to deliver the perfect product that you’ve been working on so hard,” Yoon adds. “To be honest, for the last couple pop-ups I’ve been pretty disappointed in myself or just the process of it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pop-up restaurants in the Bay Area have been on a steady rise over the last decade, intersecting with escalating rents and a volatile job market following the 2008 financial crisis. Creative, often self-taught chefs took to the street offering regionally specific and experimental dishes to patrons at affordable prices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though rents show no signs of ebbing, many pop-up owners still angle for some permanence, even if it’s in a less traditional space like a shipping container. Others take over kitchens at bars and restaurants with leases more like artist residencies than commercial tenancies. Stability benefits both chefs and their customers—one gains steady income, the other a more consistent product.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Surviving the Hype\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Before the September pop-up at Tacos Oscar, Lovely’s built a dedicated fan base through its classic American diner fare at Piedmont Avenue bar The Lodge, where Yoon popped up consistently from June 2018 until July 2019. There, from the bar’s tiny kitchen, he churned out fried chicken sandwiches and his coveted “OG” burgers (American cheese topped smashed patty and all the fixings in a potato bun).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136000\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136000\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender.jpeg\" alt=\"A drive thru burger and an OG burger from Oakland's Lovely's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1029\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender.jpeg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-160x86.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-800x429.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-768x412.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-1020x547.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-1200x643.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A drive thru burger and an OG burger from Lovely's. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Mikey Yoon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The burger, along with Lovely’s entire menu, is an ode to the uncomplicated and reliable offerings from the lunch delis and diners that Yoon loved in his Midwest and East Coast days. In fact, his parents ran a few of those delis themselves in his home state of Maryland. “It definitely represented my parents,” he recalls. “Out there, it’s a cheeseburger, steak and cheese, chopped cheese, french fries from a bag. It was super affordable.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hype around Lovely’s coincided with Yoon’s announcement that he’d be leaving his year-long post at The Lodge to find a permanent spot of his own. With a single, stable location, Yoon can avoid the stress of Bay Area residents’ avid pursuit for the newest and most ephemeral food experiences—a chase that’s become gamified thanks to social feeds. “In a pop-up context it almost seems like it’s not even about the food. It’s about the process of it,” he says. “People want the experience of, I hate to say it, maybe waiting in line because everyone else is doing it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135970\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135970\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315.jpeg\" alt=\"Lovely's chef Mikey Yoon along with Javi Palacios and Cameron Kauzer working a pop-up at Eli's Mile High Club.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315.jpeg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-1200x900.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lovely's chef Mikey Yoon along with Javi Palacios and Cameron Kauzer working a pop-up at Eli's Mile High Club. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To mitigate the wait time of his September pop-up, Yoon opted for weekend-long takeovers of the kitchen at Eli’s Mile High Club while securing a future home for Lovely’s. “The margins for restaurants aren’t high really, especially if I’m selling a five or six dollar burger,” Yoon explains. “I needed to find a situation to where I can keep my prices low and still have my goals intact.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To that end, he’s hoping to finalize a deal with a brewery set to open in Oakland’s Pill Hill neighborhood next summer. “On the financial end, it works wonders for me because they’re kind of doing the heavy lifting. They’re building the kitchen. I don’t have to put all of this investment down,” he says. He’ll keep mum on other details until the deal is inked.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Drinking Buddies\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>On the other side of the bridge in San Francisco, chef Abraham Nunez is also searching for a permanent spot for his \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chicano_nuevo/?hl=en\">Chicáno Nuevo\u003c/a> pop-up. In 2015, Nunez started selling tamales and fish tacos at the original Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack location after the eatery moved down the street. Soon enough, the owner asked him to take over the kitchen; Nunez ran his pop-up for a year until the building sold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BybOwFYB9y2/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Originally from San Diego and Tijuana, Nunez was excited to offer the regionally specific Mexican food he grew up eating, like the Baja-style fish tacos he serves with a salmon caldo. Besides his specialized menu, Nunez also sees the value of his pop-up for bars and breweries who sell liquor under a 47 license, which requires a facility be a “bona fide eating place” with over half its sales coming from food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some new bar owners that don’t have experience to run a kitchen are looking to people like me who have a following of people and already a brand, a central dish, a focal point and a strategy,” he says. “The pop-up as a service is highly desirable because you come in and you run their kitchen. They don’t have to go out and hire and train and work out their recipes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The former musician compares running a pop-up to being in a band, playing shows in a different venue every weekend. “It feels almost exactly the same,” Nunez says. “Rehearse, get the band together, perform a show. Prep, get the food and ingredients and equipment together and go perform, do a pop-up. Then you pack up your gear at the end of the night and you go home.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Currently, Nunez is touring Chicáno Nuevo at Old Devil Moon, El Rio and Casements. Starting next year, he’s hoping to be in a permanent spot on 16th and Mission Streets. The chef is in the final stages of negotiations for a commercial space through the Mission Housing Development Corporation, a community-based organization dedicated to creating and preserving high-quality affordable housing for Mission residents.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Better Together\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>[aside postID=\"bayareabites_135485,checkplease_20198\" label='Gay 4 U is Reborn and Aburaya is on Check, Please!']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Terry Sok-Wolfson, along with her wife and business partner Julia Sok-Wolfson, bought downtown Oakland lunch institution Garden House in 2014, a pop-up helped them survive their first year as business owners. Adachi Hiroyuki launched dinner service at the lunch-only restaurant with \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/aburayaoakland/?hl=en\">Aburaya\u003c/a>, a punk rock-influenced Japanese fried chicken spot with a cult following. With Hiroyuki splitting the rent with them, the Sok-Wolfsons were able to keep afloat as new business owners. “I knew in my heart that it’d become increasingly difficult to run a business in downtown Oakland,” Terry says. “[The pop-up] is what ultimately gave us an opportunity to succeed and grow as much as we have.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After Aburaya spun out to their own location, with the Sok-Wolfsons staying on as business partners, Garden House’s building sold in 2017. The couple renovated the restaurant and negotiated a new lease with pop-ups in mind. “Aburaya has turned into something that none of us could’ve imagined,” Terry explains. “If we’re able to give someone else an opportunity to grow as much as Aburaya has, someone that is a part of the community, doing things for the community, then that’s definitely something we want to [do].”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B6DTBmmBmFk/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This October, Sofi Espice’s colorful vegan pop-up, Gay 4 U, moved into Garden House for dinner and brunch service after losing their semi-permanent spot at Classic Cars West. Now that they’re on more solid financial footing at Garden House, the Sok-Wolfsons are offering Espice a more flexible lease option, including marginally increasing rent that can take the pressure off of the pop-up in the first few months. “I think it’s impossible to run a pop-up without a venue that supports you. And it’s also almost impossible to just run a simple small family restaurant,” Terry says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m very committed to Oakland in as many ways as I can be. Allowing pop-ups and trying to help incubate folks was my way of trying to ensure that Oakland's culinary creative scene stays around.”\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"As the Bay Area pop-up scene grows, pop-up chefs and restaurant owners make accommodations for a new phase in the ephemeral dining trend. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1576777666,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":1641},"headData":{"title":"Life After Pop-Up: Oakland's Lovely's and San Francisco's Chicáno Nuevo Seek Permanence | KQED","description":"As the Bay Area pop-up scene grows, pop-up chefs and restaurant owners make accommodations for a new phase in the ephemeral dining trend. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Life After Pop-Up: Oakland's Lovely's and San Francisco's Chicáno Nuevo Seek Permanence","datePublished":"2019-12-18T21:27:38.000Z","dateModified":"2019-12-19T17:47:46.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"135968 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=135968","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/12/18/life-after-pop-up-oaklands-lovelys-and-san-franciscos-chicano-nuevo-seek-permanence/","disqusTitle":"Life After Pop-Up: Oakland's Lovely's and San Francisco's Chicáno Nuevo Seek Permanence","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/135968/life-after-pop-up-oaklands-lovelys-and-san-franciscos-chicano-nuevo-seek-permanence","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The line at \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lovelys__oakland/\">Lovely’s\u003c/a> stretched for two blocks, past other eateries, when the Oakland burger joint popped up at Tacos Oscar after a month-long hiatus this September. Those who decided to brave the wait wouldn’t get a bite for hours. “People are telling me, ‘Congratulations.’ And I hated that experience,” remembers Mikey Yoon, the chef behind Lovely’s. “I don't want people to wait three hours for a five-dollar burger.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_127083,bayareabites_133040","label":"More pop-ups around the Bay "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The scene may seem both exciting and daunting for any chef, but it’s especially challenging for pop-up chefs who cook in unfamiliar kitchens with limited storage and a modest staff (if any at all), while competing with their nomadic peers and established brick-and-mortar restaurants for the attention of patrons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“To have a successful one-off pop-up, you have to knock it out of the park,” Yoon says. “There [are] so many things involved. There’s people that are helping me out that day. How much have they worked with me? How hard is the process? They’re also in a new setting.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“For me, consistency is super key. You want to deliver the perfect product that you’ve been working on so hard,” Yoon adds. “To be honest, for the last couple pop-ups I’ve been pretty disappointed in myself or just the process of it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pop-up restaurants in the Bay Area have been on a steady rise over the last decade, intersecting with escalating rents and a volatile job market following the 2008 financial crisis. Creative, often self-taught chefs took to the street offering regionally specific and experimental dishes to patrons at affordable prices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though rents show no signs of ebbing, many pop-up owners still angle for some permanence, even if it’s in a less traditional space like a shipping container. Others take over kitchens at bars and restaurants with leases more like artist residencies than commercial tenancies. Stability benefits both chefs and their customers—one gains steady income, the other a more consistent product.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Surviving the Hype\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Before the September pop-up at Tacos Oscar, Lovely’s built a dedicated fan base through its classic American diner fare at Piedmont Avenue bar The Lodge, where Yoon popped up consistently from June 2018 until July 2019. There, from the bar’s tiny kitchen, he churned out fried chicken sandwiches and his coveted “OG” burgers (American cheese topped smashed patty and all the fixings in a potato bun).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136000\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136000\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender.jpeg\" alt=\"A drive thru burger and an OG burger from Oakland's Lovely's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1029\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender.jpeg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-160x86.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-800x429.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-768x412.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-1020x547.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/FullSizeRender-1200x643.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A drive thru burger and an OG burger from Lovely's. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Mikey Yoon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The burger, along with Lovely’s entire menu, is an ode to the uncomplicated and reliable offerings from the lunch delis and diners that Yoon loved in his Midwest and East Coast days. In fact, his parents ran a few of those delis themselves in his home state of Maryland. “It definitely represented my parents,” he recalls. “Out there, it’s a cheeseburger, steak and cheese, chopped cheese, french fries from a bag. It was super affordable.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hype around Lovely’s coincided with Yoon’s announcement that he’d be leaving his year-long post at The Lodge to find a permanent spot of his own. With a single, stable location, Yoon can avoid the stress of Bay Area residents’ avid pursuit for the newest and most ephemeral food experiences—a chase that’s become gamified thanks to social feeds. “In a pop-up context it almost seems like it’s not even about the food. It’s about the process of it,” he says. “People want the experience of, I hate to say it, maybe waiting in line because everyone else is doing it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135970\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135970\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315.jpeg\" alt=\"Lovely's chef Mikey Yoon along with Javi Palacios and Cameron Kauzer working a pop-up at Eli's Mile High Club.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315.jpeg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Lovelys_3315-1200x900.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lovely's chef Mikey Yoon along with Javi Palacios and Cameron Kauzer working a pop-up at Eli's Mile High Club. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To mitigate the wait time of his September pop-up, Yoon opted for weekend-long takeovers of the kitchen at Eli’s Mile High Club while securing a future home for Lovely’s. “The margins for restaurants aren’t high really, especially if I’m selling a five or six dollar burger,” Yoon explains. “I needed to find a situation to where I can keep my prices low and still have my goals intact.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To that end, he’s hoping to finalize a deal with a brewery set to open in Oakland’s Pill Hill neighborhood next summer. “On the financial end, it works wonders for me because they’re kind of doing the heavy lifting. They’re building the kitchen. I don’t have to put all of this investment down,” he says. He’ll keep mum on other details until the deal is inked.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Drinking Buddies\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>On the other side of the bridge in San Francisco, chef Abraham Nunez is also searching for a permanent spot for his \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/chicano_nuevo/?hl=en\">Chicáno Nuevo\u003c/a> pop-up. In 2015, Nunez started selling tamales and fish tacos at the original Emmy’s Spaghetti Shack location after the eatery moved down the street. Soon enough, the owner asked him to take over the kitchen; Nunez ran his pop-up for a year until the building sold.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"BybOwFYB9y2"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Originally from San Diego and Tijuana, Nunez was excited to offer the regionally specific Mexican food he grew up eating, like the Baja-style fish tacos he serves with a salmon caldo. Besides his specialized menu, Nunez also sees the value of his pop-up for bars and breweries who sell liquor under a 47 license, which requires a facility be a “bona fide eating place” with over half its sales coming from food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some new bar owners that don’t have experience to run a kitchen are looking to people like me who have a following of people and already a brand, a central dish, a focal point and a strategy,” he says. “The pop-up as a service is highly desirable because you come in and you run their kitchen. They don’t have to go out and hire and train and work out their recipes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The former musician compares running a pop-up to being in a band, playing shows in a different venue every weekend. “It feels almost exactly the same,” Nunez says. “Rehearse, get the band together, perform a show. Prep, get the food and ingredients and equipment together and go perform, do a pop-up. Then you pack up your gear at the end of the night and you go home.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Currently, Nunez is touring Chicáno Nuevo at Old Devil Moon, El Rio and Casements. Starting next year, he’s hoping to be in a permanent spot on 16th and Mission Streets. The chef is in the final stages of negotiations for a commercial space through the Mission Housing Development Corporation, a community-based organization dedicated to creating and preserving high-quality affordable housing for Mission residents.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Better Together\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_135485,checkplease_20198","label":"Gay 4 U is Reborn and Aburaya is on Check, Please! "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Terry Sok-Wolfson, along with her wife and business partner Julia Sok-Wolfson, bought downtown Oakland lunch institution Garden House in 2014, a pop-up helped them survive their first year as business owners. Adachi Hiroyuki launched dinner service at the lunch-only restaurant with \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/aburayaoakland/?hl=en\">Aburaya\u003c/a>, a punk rock-influenced Japanese fried chicken spot with a cult following. With Hiroyuki splitting the rent with them, the Sok-Wolfsons were able to keep afloat as new business owners. “I knew in my heart that it’d become increasingly difficult to run a business in downtown Oakland,” Terry says. “[The pop-up] is what ultimately gave us an opportunity to succeed and grow as much as we have.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After Aburaya spun out to their own location, with the Sok-Wolfsons staying on as business partners, Garden House’s building sold in 2017. The couple renovated the restaurant and negotiated a new lease with pop-ups in mind. “Aburaya has turned into something that none of us could’ve imagined,” Terry explains. “If we’re able to give someone else an opportunity to grow as much as Aburaya has, someone that is a part of the community, doing things for the community, then that’s definitely something we want to [do].”\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B6DTBmmBmFk"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>This October, Sofi Espice’s colorful vegan pop-up, Gay 4 U, moved into Garden House for dinner and brunch service after losing their semi-permanent spot at Classic Cars West. Now that they’re on more solid financial footing at Garden House, the Sok-Wolfsons are offering Espice a more flexible lease option, including marginally increasing rent that can take the pressure off of the pop-up in the first few months. “I think it’s impossible to run a pop-up without a venue that supports you. And it’s also almost impossible to just run a simple small family restaurant,” Terry says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m very committed to Oakland in as many ways as I can be. Allowing pop-ups and trying to help incubate folks was my way of trying to ensure that Oakland's culinary creative scene stays around.”\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/135968/life-after-pop-up-oaklands-lovelys-and-san-franciscos-chicano-nuevo-seek-permanence","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_16526","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_181","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_1964","bayareabites_9710","bayareabites_669","bayareabites_330","bayareabites_16494","bayareabites_758","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_4043","bayareabites_767"],"featImg":"bayareabites_135995","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_135813":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_135813","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"135813","score":null,"sort":[1576546148000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"5-food-trucks-that-put-regional-mexican-plates-on-the-map","title":"5 Fruitvale Food Trucks That Put Regional Mexican Plates on the Map","publishDate":1576546148,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>All across Mexico, regional dishes are as varied as the terrain, language and cultural traditions. In Oakland's Fruitvale district, the many \u003cem>taqueros\u003c/em> and food vendors along the streets coalesce to map complex patterns of migration and weave a vibrant tapestry of food traditions from across the Americas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the dishes from these traditions are delicious, too. We recently visited five food trucks in the neighborhood to understand the regional distinctions of their offerings and hear from the people who make them. Come along with us to experience the many flavors of Fruitvale—and bring your appetite.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Aguachiles el Tamarindo\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 3053 International Blvd., Oakland, CA\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cstrong>Regions:\u003c/strong> Sinaloa, Baja California and Jalisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Afternoons, weekends\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try: \u003c/strong>\u003cem>Torre de mariscos\u003c/em>, Baja-style \u003cem>tacos de pescado \u003c/em>and \u003cem>camaron\u003c/em>, ceviche \u003cem>verde\u003c/em>, mango and \u003cem>chamoy\u003c/em> ceviche\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135897\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135897\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Torre Sinaloense with scallops, shrimp, cucumber, imitation crab, tomato, avocado and covered with salsa negra.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Enrique Galindo (El Grio, Jalisco) and family's Torre de Mariscos estilo Sinaloense with scallops, shrimp, cucumber, imitation crab, chiltepin, tomato, avocado and covered with salsa negra. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>An offshoot of Enrique Galindo and family's long-established taqueria enterprise Mi Grullense, Aguachiles el Tamarindo offers delicious taco and torta staples. But what sets them apart is their vast menu of seafood—ceviches, tostadas, cocteles and their show-stopper: the \u003cem>torre de mariscos\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Literally translated as a “tower of seafood,” the \u003cem>torre\u003c/em> has five-plus layers of tender scallops, \u003cem>jaiba\u003c/em> (imitation crab), shrimp, octopus, chiltepin, avocado, onion, tomato and cucumber, all drenched in a family recipe of Sinaloa-style \u003cem>salsa negra\u003c/em>—a punchy combination of Maggi sauce and secret ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote]To their Flamin' Hot competitor Taco Bell, manager Adriana Nieto says, \"\u003cem>Que se vaya!\u003c/em>\"[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a popular truck destination, Aguachiles el Tamarindo has creatively adapted to waves of new clientele. They've produced unique items on their menu to satisfy the cravings of locals from a variety of international traditions, including a Vietnamese and Cajun-style shrimp boil and poppin' diaspora dishes like Flamin' Hot Cheeto nachos. To their Flamin' Hot competitor Taco Bell, manager Adriana Nieto says, \"\u003cem>Que se vaya!\u003c/em>\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip:\u003c/strong> Keep coming back. The menu is so large that it will take a long time to try all of their offerings.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>El Pipirin\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 3315 Farnam St., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegion:\u003c/strong> Guadalajara, Jalisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Afternoons, early evenings\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Torta ahogada\u003c/em>, \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>, \u003cem>barbacoa de res\u003c/em>, guava and cream empanadas\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135903\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135903\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Tomato salsa (L) and chile de arbol (R) torta ahogada at El Pipirin.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tomato salsa (L) and chile de arbol (R) torta ahogada at El Pipirin. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jorge Ayllon established El Pipirin 29 years ago to bring the tastes and \u003cem>costumbres\u003c/em> of Guadalajara, Jalisco to the Bay. With pride, his family set out to offer items that couldn't be found in other restaurants in the region. That's partly what makes their \u003cem>barbacoa\u003c/em> so unique. Beyond swapping \u003cem>borrega \u003c/em>(sheep) for \u003cem>res \u003c/em>(beef) and \u003cem>lengua\u003c/em> (tongue)\u003cem>, \u003c/em>Ayllon and family use a special oven to duplicate the dish's traditional preparation, which involves cooking the meat in an underground oven for 20 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But one dish takes center stage at El Pipirin, and that's the Torta Ahogada. They've mastered the recipe over the years to produce a torta that's identical to the one you might order in Guadalajara. Its core elements include a soft-yet-sturdy \u003cem>bolillo\u003c/em> layered with beans, \u003ci>barbacoa \u003c/i>and drenched with an extra spicy \u003cem>chile de arbol \u003c/em>or a mild tomato salsa. The fiery sandwich wouldn't be complete without a garnish of finely-sliced white onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size='large' align='right' citation='Jorge Ayllon']\"El chile tiene que ser muy bravo, para que siempre venga la gente.\"[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The item that stands out as a personal favorite of ours is their \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>. Each cup bursts diced onions, finely stewed bits of \u003cem>barbacoa\u003c/em>, and a zing of lime. Beyond its singular flavor and mouth-watering aromatics, the beefy broth is loaded with a surprise ingredient: garbanzo beans. The convergence of acid, fat, heat and salt blend into an unforgettable stew perfect for dipping or enjoyed on its own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Enjoy a mini empanada made fresh daily with original ingredients including sweet cream, guava and strawberry.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>La Grana Fish\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 865 50th Ave., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions:\u003c/strong> Jalisco, Baja California, Michoacán and Sinaloa\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Saturdays and Sundays, while ingredients last\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Quesabirrias\u003c/em> (Tijuana), \u003cem>papas rellenas\u003c/em> (Mazatlán), \u003cem>aguachile\u003c/em> ceviche (Jalisco), fresh ahi tuna tostada, michelada mix\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135898\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135898\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Micheladas, cevice de aguachile, quesabirrias, papas rellenas.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Micheladas, cevice de aguachile, quesabirrias, papas rellenas. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you’ve checked your Instagram feed lately, chances are you’ve caught a glimpse of \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> accompanied by a steaming cup of \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>. \u003cem>Quesabirria\u003c/em> offerings are popping up in locations across the Bay Area and are quickly gaining a cult-like fan base. What sets the Tijuana \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> apart from its taco counterparts is the decadent combination of melty \u003cem>queso quesadilla, \u003c/em>crispy cheese edges and a heaping scoop of tangy, tender stewed \u003cem>birria de res\u003c/em>—all wrapped in a chile-dipped corn tortilla. Dunk your \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> into a steaming cup of \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>, and you’re on your way to an explosion of flavor that satisfies with every bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Grana Fish’s second show-stopper is their \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cem>papas rellenas\u003c/em>, or twice-baked potatoes,\u003c/span> with roots in Mazatlán, Sinaloa. Each giant potato teems with cheese, bacon, pickled jalapeños, a meat of your choice and a dash of green onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But don't snooze on their seafood fare—particularly the \u003cem>ceviche aguachile\u003c/em>. The recipe comes from owner Alvaro Ramos' hometown, Autlán de la Grana, Jalisco. The contrasting bite of serrano chile and pickled red onion against the tender shrimp dethrones offerings from local ceviche competitors. If you're looking for something wholly unique to La Grana fish, try their fresh ahi tuna tostada.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size='large' align='right' citation='Ana Morales']\"It's just the two of us. We would like to expand to have a restaurant. That's our dream.\"[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owners Alvaro Ramos (Jalisco) and Ana Morales (Michoacán) have big dreams for La Grana Fish. What started out as a small cart launched into a popular weekend truck. Their hope is to one day open a \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">brick-and-mortar restaurant\u003c/span>, and if the long lines of eager customers prove anything, they're well on their way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Get your stuffed baked potato \u003cem>mar y tierra\u003c/em> style with carne asada and shrimp.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>El Charro\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 1502 Fruitvale Ave., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions: \u003c/strong>Familiar across Mexico, but a specialty in the north\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Saturdays and Sundays, late morning/early lunch\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try: \u003c/strong>\u003cem>Pollo asado\u003c/em> (\u003cem>al carbon\u003c/em>), ribs, papaya \u003cem>agua fresca\u003c/em> (pending availability)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135906\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135906\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Half-chicken meal of pollo al carbon, rice beans and tortillas from El Charro in East Oakland.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Half-chicken meal of pollo al carbon, rice, beans and tortillas from El Charro in East Oakland. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cooking whole chickens over charcoal is a technique shared and adapted throughout all of the Americas. In Peru, \u003cem>pollo a la brasa\u003c/em> served with yucca fries is popular, while \u003cem>pollo al carbon\u003c/em> (literally chicken to the coal) is popular across Mexico from Chihuahua to the Yucatán.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fire-braised roasted chicken is often served with fresh corn tortillas, pico de gallo and a fresh salsa of your choice (most commonly a red salsa made with broiled chile and tomatoes or a green salsa of tomatillo, jalapeño, serrano and onion).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Attached to a bustling market specializing in Latin American goods, El Charro’s custom charcoal grill churns out whole chickens and dry-rub ribs street-side from their food truck or for purchase inside the store. You can count on freshly charred chicken (and dry-rub ribs!) \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mondays–Sundays\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> starting at 8am.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Quench your thirst with any of their \u003cem>aguas frescas. \u003c/em>Papaya, pineapple, watermelon, tamarindo, jamaica are popular, depending on seasonal availability.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Tamales Acapulco Doña Tere\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 4559 International Blvd., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions:\u003c/strong> Guerrero and South Central Mexico\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go: \u003c/strong>Weekdays and Saturdays, late morning/early afternoon\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> Tamales de \u003cem>mole rojo\u003c/em>, chicharron \u003cem>tacos de canasta\u003c/em> (also known as \u003cem>al vapor\u003c/em>)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135909\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135909\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Mole rojo tamal and tamal de puerco from Tamales Acapulco in East Oakland.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mole rojo tamal and tamal de puerco from Tamales Acapulco in East Oakland. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Teresa Mondragon of Tamales Acapulco is a food entrepreneur fondly known as Doña Tere. As reported in \u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2017/10/09/tamales-acapulco-oaklands-original-tamal-joint\">Berkeleyside\u003c/a>, she's among a cohort who helped change local laws for food vending in Fruitvale nearly 20 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's what brought her food truck to Fruitvale, where she offers \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">some of the most-coveted tamales in the neighborhood\u003c/span> as well as\u003cem> tacos de canasta\u003c/em>, tortas and pupusas (a Salvadorean staple).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While mole recipes from Oaxaca and Puebla have gained the greatest popularity in the United States, it's important to remember that the indigenous roots of mole span far and wide across Central and Southern Mexico.\u003c/span> And the state of Guerrero has its own mole traditions, including the adoption of the green and nutty\u003cem> pipian, \u003c/em>as well as \u003cem>mole rosa\u003c/em> and\u003cem> mole rojo\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Doña Tere has mastered the latter. What’s special about her approach is how she folds the mole sauce into the \u003cem>masa \u003c/em>of the tamal, infusing her \u003cem>maiz\u003c/em> with the richness and complexity of pork-stewed red mole. Add a few \u003cem>tacos de canasta \u003c/em>to your order and let the fatty, stewed \u003cem>chicharron\u003c/em> and salsa verde melt on your tongue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While this food is served and consumed quickly, it's not fast food. Rather, it's a carefully-crafted \u003cem>antojito\u003c/em> (little craving) bundled in regional pride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip:\u003c/strong> On cold days, ask for \u003cem>champurrado\u003c/em>, and let the creamy combo of \u003cem>atole, piloncillo, canela, \u003c/em>chocolate and milk warm you from the inside out.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cem>Follow our eating adventures with some of our favorite dishes from these five trucks: \u003c/em>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" size=\"medium\" ids=\"135896,135895,135902,135904,135905,135907,135901,135900,135899,135908,135912,135929\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch4>\u003cem>Hungry? Use our Google Map to find each of these spots in East Oakland. \u003c/em>\u003c/h4>\n\u003cp>\u003c!-- iframe plugin v.4.3 wordpress.org/plugins/iframe/ -->\u003cbr>\n\u003ciframe src=\"https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/2/embed?mid=1CH9ZSu7sy0moLZgXFMJrwkokteKws56n\" width=\"800\" height=\"500\" scrolling=\"yes\" class=\"iframe-class\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"From Sinaloa to Jalisco, these five food trucks in Oakland's Fruitvale district highlight the regional distinction of specialty plates of Mexico with pride. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1583623797,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":true,"iframeSrcs":["https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/2/embed"],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":true,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":37,"wordCount":1672},"headData":{"title":"5 Fruitvale Food Trucks That Put Regional Mexican Plates on the Map | KQED","description":"From Sinaloa to Jalisco, these five food trucks in Oakland's Fruitvale district highlight the regional distinction of specialty plates of Mexico with pride. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"5 Fruitvale Food Trucks That Put Regional Mexican Plates on the Map","datePublished":"2019-12-17T01:29:08.000Z","dateModified":"2020-03-07T23:29:57.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"135813 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=135813","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/12/16/5-food-trucks-that-put-regional-mexican-plates-on-the-map/","disqusTitle":"5 Fruitvale Food Trucks That Put Regional Mexican Plates on the Map","nprByline":"Lina Blanco, Masha Pershay","nprAudio":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/2019/12/MexFoodTrucks2way191221.wav","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/135813/5-food-trucks-that-put-regional-mexican-plates-on-the-map","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/2019/12/MexFoodTrucks2way191221.wav","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>All across Mexico, regional dishes are as varied as the terrain, language and cultural traditions. In Oakland's Fruitvale district, the many \u003cem>taqueros\u003c/em> and food vendors along the streets coalesce to map complex patterns of migration and weave a vibrant tapestry of food traditions from across the Americas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the dishes from these traditions are delicious, too. We recently visited five food trucks in the neighborhood to understand the regional distinctions of their offerings and hear from the people who make them. Come along with us to experience the many flavors of Fruitvale—and bring your appetite.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Aguachiles el Tamarindo\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 3053 International Blvd., Oakland, CA\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cstrong>Regions:\u003c/strong> Sinaloa, Baja California and Jalisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Afternoons, weekends\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try: \u003c/strong>\u003cem>Torre de mariscos\u003c/em>, Baja-style \u003cem>tacos de pescado \u003c/em>and \u003cem>camaron\u003c/em>, ceviche \u003cem>verde\u003c/em>, mango and \u003cem>chamoy\u003c/em> ceviche\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135897\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135897\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Torre Sinaloense with scallops, shrimp, cucumber, imitation crab, tomato, avocado and covered with salsa negra.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Enrique Galindo (El Grio, Jalisco) and family's Torre de Mariscos estilo Sinaloense with scallops, shrimp, cucumber, imitation crab, chiltepin, tomato, avocado and covered with salsa negra. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>An offshoot of Enrique Galindo and family's long-established taqueria enterprise Mi Grullense, Aguachiles el Tamarindo offers delicious taco and torta staples. But what sets them apart is their vast menu of seafood—ceviches, tostadas, cocteles and their show-stopper: the \u003cem>torre de mariscos\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Literally translated as a “tower of seafood,” the \u003cem>torre\u003c/em> has five-plus layers of tender scallops, \u003cem>jaiba\u003c/em> (imitation crab), shrimp, octopus, chiltepin, avocado, onion, tomato and cucumber, all drenched in a family recipe of Sinaloa-style \u003cem>salsa negra\u003c/em>—a punchy combination of Maggi sauce and secret ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"To their Flamin' Hot competitor Taco Bell, manager Adriana Nieto says, \"\u003cem>Que se vaya!\u003c/em>\"","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a popular truck destination, Aguachiles el Tamarindo has creatively adapted to waves of new clientele. They've produced unique items on their menu to satisfy the cravings of locals from a variety of international traditions, including a Vietnamese and Cajun-style shrimp boil and poppin' diaspora dishes like Flamin' Hot Cheeto nachos. To their Flamin' Hot competitor Taco Bell, manager Adriana Nieto says, \"\u003cem>Que se vaya!\u003c/em>\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip:\u003c/strong> Keep coming back. The menu is so large that it will take a long time to try all of their offerings.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>El Pipirin\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 3315 Farnam St., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegion:\u003c/strong> Guadalajara, Jalisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Afternoons, early evenings\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Torta ahogada\u003c/em>, \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>, \u003cem>barbacoa de res\u003c/em>, guava and cream empanadas\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135903\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135903\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Tomato salsa (L) and chile de arbol (R) torta ahogada at El Pipirin.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tomato salsa (L) and chile de arbol (R) torta ahogada at El Pipirin. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jorge Ayllon established El Pipirin 29 years ago to bring the tastes and \u003cem>costumbres\u003c/em> of Guadalajara, Jalisco to the Bay. With pride, his family set out to offer items that couldn't be found in other restaurants in the region. That's partly what makes their \u003cem>barbacoa\u003c/em> so unique. Beyond swapping \u003cem>borrega \u003c/em>(sheep) for \u003cem>res \u003c/em>(beef) and \u003cem>lengua\u003c/em> (tongue)\u003cem>, \u003c/em>Ayllon and family use a special oven to duplicate the dish's traditional preparation, which involves cooking the meat in an underground oven for 20 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But one dish takes center stage at El Pipirin, and that's the Torta Ahogada. They've mastered the recipe over the years to produce a torta that's identical to the one you might order in Guadalajara. Its core elements include a soft-yet-sturdy \u003cem>bolillo\u003c/em> layered with beans, \u003ci>barbacoa \u003c/i>and drenched with an extra spicy \u003cem>chile de arbol \u003c/em>or a mild tomato salsa. The fiery sandwich wouldn't be complete without a garnish of finely-sliced white onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"\"El chile tiene que ser muy bravo, para que siempre venga la gente.\"","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"large","align":"right","citation":"Jorge Ayllon","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The item that stands out as a personal favorite of ours is their \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>. Each cup bursts diced onions, finely stewed bits of \u003cem>barbacoa\u003c/em>, and a zing of lime. Beyond its singular flavor and mouth-watering aromatics, the beefy broth is loaded with a surprise ingredient: garbanzo beans. The convergence of acid, fat, heat and salt blend into an unforgettable stew perfect for dipping or enjoyed on its own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Enjoy a mini empanada made fresh daily with original ingredients including sweet cream, guava and strawberry.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>La Grana Fish\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 865 50th Ave., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions:\u003c/strong> Jalisco, Baja California, Michoacán and Sinaloa\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Saturdays and Sundays, while ingredients last\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Quesabirrias\u003c/em> (Tijuana), \u003cem>papas rellenas\u003c/em> (Mazatlán), \u003cem>aguachile\u003c/em> ceviche (Jalisco), fresh ahi tuna tostada, michelada mix\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135898\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135898\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Micheladas, cevice de aguachile, quesabirrias, papas rellenas.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Micheladas, cevice de aguachile, quesabirrias, papas rellenas. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you’ve checked your Instagram feed lately, chances are you’ve caught a glimpse of \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> accompanied by a steaming cup of \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>. \u003cem>Quesabirria\u003c/em> offerings are popping up in locations across the Bay Area and are quickly gaining a cult-like fan base. What sets the Tijuana \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> apart from its taco counterparts is the decadent combination of melty \u003cem>queso quesadilla, \u003c/em>crispy cheese edges and a heaping scoop of tangy, tender stewed \u003cem>birria de res\u003c/em>—all wrapped in a chile-dipped corn tortilla. Dunk your \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> into a steaming cup of \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>, and you’re on your way to an explosion of flavor that satisfies with every bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Grana Fish’s second show-stopper is their \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cem>papas rellenas\u003c/em>, or twice-baked potatoes,\u003c/span> with roots in Mazatlán, Sinaloa. Each giant potato teems with cheese, bacon, pickled jalapeños, a meat of your choice and a dash of green onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But don't snooze on their seafood fare—particularly the \u003cem>ceviche aguachile\u003c/em>. The recipe comes from owner Alvaro Ramos' hometown, Autlán de la Grana, Jalisco. The contrasting bite of serrano chile and pickled red onion against the tender shrimp dethrones offerings from local ceviche competitors. If you're looking for something wholly unique to La Grana fish, try their fresh ahi tuna tostada.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"\"It's just the two of us. We would like to expand to have a restaurant. That's our dream.\"","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"large","align":"right","citation":"Ana Morales","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owners Alvaro Ramos (Jalisco) and Ana Morales (Michoacán) have big dreams for La Grana Fish. What started out as a small cart launched into a popular weekend truck. Their hope is to one day open a \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">brick-and-mortar restaurant\u003c/span>, and if the long lines of eager customers prove anything, they're well on their way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Get your stuffed baked potato \u003cem>mar y tierra\u003c/em> style with carne asada and shrimp.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>El Charro\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 1502 Fruitvale Ave., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions: \u003c/strong>Familiar across Mexico, but a specialty in the north\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Saturdays and Sundays, late morning/early lunch\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try: \u003c/strong>\u003cem>Pollo asado\u003c/em> (\u003cem>al carbon\u003c/em>), ribs, papaya \u003cem>agua fresca\u003c/em> (pending availability)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135906\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135906\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Half-chicken meal of pollo al carbon, rice beans and tortillas from El Charro in East Oakland.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Half-chicken meal of pollo al carbon, rice, beans and tortillas from El Charro in East Oakland. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cooking whole chickens over charcoal is a technique shared and adapted throughout all of the Americas. In Peru, \u003cem>pollo a la brasa\u003c/em> served with yucca fries is popular, while \u003cem>pollo al carbon\u003c/em> (literally chicken to the coal) is popular across Mexico from Chihuahua to the Yucatán.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fire-braised roasted chicken is often served with fresh corn tortillas, pico de gallo and a fresh salsa of your choice (most commonly a red salsa made with broiled chile and tomatoes or a green salsa of tomatillo, jalapeño, serrano and onion).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Attached to a bustling market specializing in Latin American goods, El Charro’s custom charcoal grill churns out whole chickens and dry-rub ribs street-side from their food truck or for purchase inside the store. You can count on freshly charred chicken (and dry-rub ribs!) \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mondays–Sundays\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> starting at 8am.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Quench your thirst with any of their \u003cem>aguas frescas. \u003c/em>Papaya, pineapple, watermelon, tamarindo, jamaica are popular, depending on seasonal availability.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Tamales Acapulco Doña Tere\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 4559 International Blvd., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions:\u003c/strong> Guerrero and South Central Mexico\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go: \u003c/strong>Weekdays and Saturdays, late morning/early afternoon\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> Tamales de \u003cem>mole rojo\u003c/em>, chicharron \u003cem>tacos de canasta\u003c/em> (also known as \u003cem>al vapor\u003c/em>)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135909\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135909\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Mole rojo tamal and tamal de puerco from Tamales Acapulco in East Oakland.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mole rojo tamal and tamal de puerco from Tamales Acapulco in East Oakland. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Teresa Mondragon of Tamales Acapulco is a food entrepreneur fondly known as Doña Tere. As reported in \u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2017/10/09/tamales-acapulco-oaklands-original-tamal-joint\">Berkeleyside\u003c/a>, she's among a cohort who helped change local laws for food vending in Fruitvale nearly 20 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's what brought her food truck to Fruitvale, where she offers \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">some of the most-coveted tamales in the neighborhood\u003c/span> as well as\u003cem> tacos de canasta\u003c/em>, tortas and pupusas (a Salvadorean staple).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While mole recipes from Oaxaca and Puebla have gained the greatest popularity in the United States, it's important to remember that the indigenous roots of mole span far and wide across Central and Southern Mexico.\u003c/span> And the state of Guerrero has its own mole traditions, including the adoption of the green and nutty\u003cem> pipian, \u003c/em>as well as \u003cem>mole rosa\u003c/em> and\u003cem> mole rojo\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Doña Tere has mastered the latter. What’s special about her approach is how she folds the mole sauce into the \u003cem>masa \u003c/em>of the tamal, infusing her \u003cem>maiz\u003c/em> with the richness and complexity of pork-stewed red mole. Add a few \u003cem>tacos de canasta \u003c/em>to your order and let the fatty, stewed \u003cem>chicharron\u003c/em> and salsa verde melt on your tongue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While this food is served and consumed quickly, it's not fast food. Rather, it's a carefully-crafted \u003cem>antojito\u003c/em> (little craving) bundled in regional pride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip:\u003c/strong> On cold days, ask for \u003cem>champurrado\u003c/em>, and let the creamy combo of \u003cem>atole, piloncillo, canela, \u003c/em>chocolate and milk warm you from the inside out.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cem>Follow our eating adventures with some of our favorite dishes from these five trucks: \u003c/em>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","size":"medium","ids":"135896,135895,135902,135904,135905,135907,135901,135900,135899,135908,135912,135929","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch4>\u003cem>Hungry? Use our Google Map to find each of these spots in East Oakland. \u003c/em>\u003c/h4>\n\u003cp>\u003c!-- iframe plugin v.4.3 wordpress.org/plugins/iframe/ -->\u003cbr>\n\u003ciframe src=\"https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/2/embed?mid=1CH9ZSu7sy0moLZgXFMJrwkokteKws56n\" width=\"800\" height=\"500\" scrolling=\"yes\" class=\"iframe-class\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/135813/5-food-trucks-that-put-regional-mexican-plates-on-the-map","authors":["byline_bayareabites_135813"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_16525","bayareabites_16519","bayareabites_11079","bayareabites_16263","bayareabites_9710","bayareabites_13800","bayareabites_16522","bayareabites_16524","bayareabites_14177","bayareabites_13606","bayareabites_180","bayareabites_758","bayareabites_2561","bayareabites_15518","bayareabites_16518","bayareabites_16523","bayareabites_767","bayareabites_574","bayareabites_16520","bayareabites_16521"],"featImg":"bayareabites_135959","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_135612":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_135612","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"135612","score":null,"sort":[1574378410000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"oaklands-tamarindo-antojeria-to-close-after-14-years-of-regional-mexican-dining","title":"Oakland’s Tamarindo Antojeria To Close After 14 Years of Regional Mexican Dining","publishDate":1574378410,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_135485' label='More East Bay Food News']\u003cbr>\nAfter 14 years in a sunlit corner of Old Oakland, \u003ca href=\"http://www.tamarindoantojeria.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Tamarindo Antojeria\u003c/a> is closing its doors at the end of next month. Chef Gloria Dominguez, who owns the restaurant with her son Alfonso Dominguez, has been serving up antojitos and larger plates from across Mexico’s diverse culinary regions since 2005. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tamarindo468/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">On the Instagram post\u003c/a> announcing their closing, fans of the family-run restaurant recalled the meals and celebrations they’ve had at Tamarindo over the years shouting out their favorites from the eatery’s menus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B5EsxeshkJm/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On the phone on Wednesday afternoon, Alfonso tells me that his family has mulled over this decision for the past year knowing their lease would be up at the end of 2019. “\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">15 years is a big chunk of time to do whatever you're doing,” Dominguez says.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> In Oakland, where real estate prices have skyrocketed over the past decade, it’s a common sight to see restaurant closures coincide with lease terms. \u003c/span>\u003cbr>\n[pullquote size='medium' align='right' citation='Alfonso Dominguez']'For years, my Michael Bauer was the abuelita. I didn't care about any food critics at all because our success was seeing a grandma or seeing two generations sit down and eating.'[/pullquote]\u003cbr>\n\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In 2005, Tamarindo was one of the few restaurants that warmed up the Oakland restaurant scene along with \u003ca href=\"http://lukasoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Luka’s Taproom\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzaiolooakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Pizzaiolo\u003c/a> both of which opened around the same time. “\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It was a risk,” Dominguez says. “No one believed in Oakland at that time. No one. Especially downtown.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Beyond that risk, there was also his mother’s vision to serve authentic dishes from all over Mexico plated as small bites, an uncommon proposition for diners back then. “At that time, [no] one knew what mezcal was. No one knew what a lot of the dishes were,” he recalls. “No one even knew what antojeria meant. We were probably one of the first to introduce that word [here].\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135622\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135622\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo1-800x534.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Gloria Dominguez and her son Alfonso Dominguez.\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo1-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo1-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo1-1200x801.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Gloria Dominguez and her son Alfonso Dominguez. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Alfonso Dominguez)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But Gloria, a self-taught chef, continued to serve up Cochinita Pibil, a Yucatan speciality, and mulitas just like they’re made in Tijuana. “\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">What we kept true is the true recipes from Mexico. It wasn't a take of a classically trained chef doing Mexican food. It wasn't California food.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“For years, my Michael Bauer was the abuelita. I didn't care about any food critics at all because our success was seeing a grandma or seeing two generations sit down and eating.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Over the course of their run, Dominguez says the margins for running a restaurant have gotten very small. “I have no more margins,” he says frankly. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Beyond that, he describes the work as taxing not just financially but morally. “I should be paying 30 dollars an hour for people who do tamale work and I can't do it because it's economically impossible. For them to have to work three or four jobs, it's taxing on one's morals.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135624\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo3.jpg\" alt=\"A spread at Oakland's Tamarindo Antojeria which is set to close at the end of the year.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135624\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo3.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo3-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo3-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo3-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo3-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo3-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A spread at Oakland's Tamarindo Antojeria which is set to close at the end of the year. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Alfonso Dominguez)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With the last day of service coming up on November 30, Tamarindo will close out the year with mezcal tastings and parties serving up less common tacos and other foods that their diners have finally caught up to. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We're going to be doing events all of December and have fun and use the space other than service. We might even do a quinceanera because we're 15,” says Dominguez.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Tamarindo Antojeria’s 15th anniversary will be a bittersweet celebration when they close at the end of this year.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1574379017,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":12,"wordCount":640},"headData":{"title":"Oakland’s Tamarindo Antojeria To Close After 14 Years of Regional Mexican Dining | KQED","description":"Tamarindo Antojeria’s 15th anniversary will be a bittersweet celebration when they close at the end of this year.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Oakland’s Tamarindo Antojeria To Close After 14 Years of Regional Mexican Dining","datePublished":"2019-11-21T23:20:10.000Z","dateModified":"2019-11-21T23:30:17.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"135612 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=135612","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/11/21/oaklands-tamarindo-antojeria-to-close-after-14-years-of-regional-mexican-dining/","disqusTitle":"Oakland’s Tamarindo Antojeria To Close After 14 Years of Regional Mexican Dining","path":"/bayareabites/135612/oaklands-tamarindo-antojeria-to-close-after-14-years-of-regional-mexican-dining","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_135485","label":"More East Bay Food News "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nAfter 14 years in a sunlit corner of Old Oakland, \u003ca href=\"http://www.tamarindoantojeria.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Tamarindo Antojeria\u003c/a> is closing its doors at the end of next month. Chef Gloria Dominguez, who owns the restaurant with her son Alfonso Dominguez, has been serving up antojitos and larger plates from across Mexico’s diverse culinary regions since 2005. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tamarindo468/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">On the Instagram post\u003c/a> announcing their closing, fans of the family-run restaurant recalled the meals and celebrations they’ve had at Tamarindo over the years shouting out their favorites from the eatery’s menus.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B5EsxeshkJm"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On the phone on Wednesday afternoon, Alfonso tells me that his family has mulled over this decision for the past year knowing their lease would be up at the end of 2019. “\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">15 years is a big chunk of time to do whatever you're doing,” Dominguez says.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> In Oakland, where real estate prices have skyrocketed over the past decade, it’s a common sight to see restaurant closures coincide with lease terms. \u003c/span>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"'For years, my Michael Bauer was the abuelita. I didn't care about any food critics at all because our success was seeing a grandma or seeing two generations sit down and eating.'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"medium","align":"right","citation":"Alfonso Dominguez","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In 2005, Tamarindo was one of the few restaurants that warmed up the Oakland restaurant scene along with \u003ca href=\"http://lukasoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Luka’s Taproom\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzaiolooakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Pizzaiolo\u003c/a> both of which opened around the same time. “\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It was a risk,” Dominguez says. “No one believed in Oakland at that time. No one. Especially downtown.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Beyond that risk, there was also his mother’s vision to serve authentic dishes from all over Mexico plated as small bites, an uncommon proposition for diners back then. “At that time, [no] one knew what mezcal was. No one knew what a lot of the dishes were,” he recalls. “No one even knew what antojeria meant. We were probably one of the first to introduce that word [here].\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135622\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135622\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo1-800x534.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Gloria Dominguez and her son Alfonso Dominguez.\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo1-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo1-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo1-1200x801.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Gloria Dominguez and her son Alfonso Dominguez. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Alfonso Dominguez)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">But Gloria, a self-taught chef, continued to serve up Cochinita Pibil, a Yucatan speciality, and mulitas just like they’re made in Tijuana. “\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">What we kept true is the true recipes from Mexico. It wasn't a take of a classically trained chef doing Mexican food. It wasn't California food.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“For years, my Michael Bauer was the abuelita. I didn't care about any food critics at all because our success was seeing a grandma or seeing two generations sit down and eating.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Over the course of their run, Dominguez says the margins for running a restaurant have gotten very small. “I have no more margins,” he says frankly. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Beyond that, he describes the work as taxing not just financially but morally. “I should be paying 30 dollars an hour for people who do tamale work and I can't do it because it's economically impossible. For them to have to work three or four jobs, it's taxing on one's morals.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135624\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo3.jpg\" alt=\"A spread at Oakland's Tamarindo Antojeria which is set to close at the end of the year.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135624\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo3.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo3-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo3-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo3-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo3-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/tamarindo3-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A spread at Oakland's Tamarindo Antojeria which is set to close at the end of the year. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Alfonso Dominguez)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With the last day of service coming up on November 30, Tamarindo will close out the year with mezcal tastings and parties serving up less common tacos and other foods that their diners have finally caught up to. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We're going to be doing events all of December and have fun and use the space other than service. We might even do a quinceanera because we're 15,” says Dominguez.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/135612/oaklands-tamarindo-antojeria-to-close-after-14-years-of-regional-mexican-dining","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_181"],"tags":["bayareabites_758","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_92","bayareabites_16501"],"featImg":"bayareabites_135650","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_135518":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_135518","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"135518","score":null,"sort":[1574180736000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"what-it-means-to-decolonize-your-diet","title":"What It Means to Decolonize Your Diet","publishDate":1574180736,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ci>by Savannah Kuang, CUESA Staff\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we approach Thanksgiving and the holiday season, many families are preparing to celebrate this holiday with gratitude, food, and quality time together. However, Thanksgiving also comes with painful colonial origins and a reminder of the atrocities indigenous peoples had to face, and still face to this day. Stories told about the first Thanksgiving \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/11/21/us/thanksgiving-myths-fact-check.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">erase that history and cover up difficult truths\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='news_11638976,arts_13850246']\u003cbr>\nThanksgiving also provides an opportunity to dismantle that narrative and decolonize the American tradition, which can be done through food, standing in solidarity with indigenous communities, and learning about the history that goes against the American mythos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In their cookbook \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.indiebound.org/book/9781551525921\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Decolonize Your Diet: Plant-Based Mexican-American Recipes for Health and Healing\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, Bay Area professors Luz Calvo and Catriona Rueda Esquibel reclaim the pre-colonial roots of Mexican cuisine, exploring indigenous traditions that are still kept alive today. They promote a plant-based diet rich in plants native to the Americas while embracing food as medicine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We spoke with Luz about how our American food system has been colonized, how we can disrupt that system, and what we can do to honor and preserve the foodways of America’s native and rightful inhabitants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135521\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135521\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/calvo_esquibel.jpg\" alt=\"Bay Area professors Luz Calvo and Catriona Rueda Esquibel\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1000\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/calvo_esquibel.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/calvo_esquibel-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/calvo_esquibel-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/calvo_esquibel-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/calvo_esquibel-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/calvo_esquibel-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bay Area professors Luz Calvo and Catriona Rueda Esquibel \u003ccite>(Tracey Kusiewicz/Foodie Photography)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: Can you tell us a bit about your and Catriona’s backgrounds, and what inspired you to write this cookbook?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Luz Calvo:\u003c/strong> Catriona and I are both Latinx and scholars of Latinx studies, and one side of both of our families are from Sonora, Mexico. But what really motivated us to write this cookbook was my breast cancer diagnosis in 2006. It was a big moment for me because I needed to figure out what constitutes healthy eating, but also what I should be eating. I did tons of research, and my findings on cancer-related diets were mostly based on the Mediterranean diet as a model for healthy eating, which wasn’t satisfying to me in terms of the food I grew up eating. So both of us started researching ancestral Mexican diets and food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We found a \u003ca href=\"https://cebp.aacrjournals.org/content/14/12/2905\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">2005 San Francisco based study\u003c/a> that showed Latinx born in the United States have twice the risk of breast cancer compared to Latinx who were born in their home country. This flipped the switch for us because we started to wonder about why one group is impacted by this more than the other, and this turned into more questions. Dietary factors were briefly mentioned in the study, but it didn’t explain why.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, we did more research and found a phenomenon called the Latina/o Immigrant Paradox, which is that overall, Latinx immigrants arrive in the United States a lot healthier, and throughout generations, they start to lose the health benefits they had when they arrived. With that in mind, it started to feel right to eat this way, and we dove deeper into this way of eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135522\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135522\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonizeyourdiet.jpg\" alt=\"Decolonize Your Diet by Luz Calvo and Catriona Rueda Esquibel\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1687\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonizeyourdiet.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonizeyourdiet-160x180.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonizeyourdiet-800x900.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonizeyourdiet-768x864.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonizeyourdiet-1020x1147.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonizeyourdiet-1067x1200.jpg 1067w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Decolonize Your Diet by Luz Calvo and Catriona Rueda Esquibel\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How has the food system been colonized in the Americas?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we looked at the foods of Mesoamerica, we looked at the healthiest foods that were grown by indigenous peoples for thousands of years and that continue to be grown today, such as beans, corn, squash, \u003cem>quelites\u003c/em> (edible wild greens, specifically \u003ca href=\"https://cuesa.org/food/lambsquarters\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">lambsquarters\u003c/a>), and \u003cem>verdolagas\u003c/em> (\u003ca href=\"https://cuesa.org/food/purslane\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">purslane\u003c/a>). Most of this diet is plant-based. When the Spaniards came, they introduced meat such as pork and beef, as well as sugar. These types of food have historically caused many health problems. So, as a political statement and analysis, we wanted to draw attention to the multi-facets of colonization toward Chicanx/Latinx people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, there’s also the colonization of the Southwest, which imposed the American diet on Mexican communities. At the turn of the century, Americans have tried to convince Mexican mothers to start feeding their kids sandwiches instead of tacos, and that white bread was better than corn tortillas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I think about decolonizing our diet, it’s not just about health because our bodies are connected to the air, the water, and the food supply. We have to be thinking about bigger issues and focus on decolonization as a framework. Moreover, we have to acknowledge that farmworkers are also being exploited in the fields so that we can eat fresh vegetables, and the water is being polluted while indigenous peoples have been denied access to their land for ceremonies and growing their food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135523\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135523\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonize-dishes.jpg\" alt=\"Plant-based dishes discussed in 'Decolonize Your Diet'\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1000\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonize-dishes.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonize-dishes-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonize-dishes-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonize-dishes-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonize-dishes-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonize-dishes-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When the Spaniards came, they introduced meat such as pork and beef, as well as sugar. \u003ccite>(Tracey Kusiewicz/Foodie Photography)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are some of the common misconceptions about Mexican food that you’re addressing in your cookbook?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you look at Mexican cuisine regionally and also throughout time, there have been infinite variations on every dish. For example, we like to talk about tamales. Here in the United States, especially California, there are particular varieties of tamales that have been considered “authentic.” But that’s not quite true. If you go to Mexico today, you can see so many different kinds of tamales that we have never heard of. Also, if you look at this historically, tamales were sold with a wide array of fillings, many of which were plant-based, sweet, or filled with animal meat that was hunted beforehand. There’s also that misconception where Mexican food is very meat- and cheese-based. It’s not that common for people to eat that way in Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are some native ingredients available here in the Bay Area that folks may not be aware of?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s a huge lack of knowledge around these ingredients, such as tomatoes, squash, and corn. The assumption is that tomatoes originated in Italy, which isn’t true because the seeds are cultivated from here. You can also find squash in farmers markets with Italian names, when in fact they’re native to the Americas. I’ve also seen \u003cem>verdolaga\u003c/em> (purslane) in farmers markets, which I think is cool to be reclaimed, as well as \u003cem>quelites\u003c/em> (lambsquarters) and wild onions. Verdolaga tends to grow wild in the fields and has traditionally been a part of Mexican diets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135524\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135524\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/lambsquarters.jpeg\" alt=\"Edible wild greens (lambsquarters)\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/lambsquarters.jpeg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/lambsquarters-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/lambsquarters-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/lambsquarters-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/lambsquarters-1020x680.jpeg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Edible wild greens (lambsquarters) \u003ccite>(CUESA)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Thinking about Thanksgiving, a holiday rooted in America’s colonial history, what are some ways we can start decolonizing what we eat?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One thing we always think about in terms of decolonization is the importance of having gratitude, offering blessings, and recognizing the labor that went into the food. Grounding ourselves in gratitude and appreciation as a daily practice can be vital toward food decolonization.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also want to point out that we can take personal steps to decolonize how we eat, but I also think that we should take active stances of solidarity with indigenous peoples on this land. Learn about the food you’re eating and the labor that made it possible for that food to come to your table. Because all of this is interconnected, we have to step up our engagement in political processes that are affecting us as humans and the planet. America has a complex colonial history, so we have to start becoming more aware of these issues in order to get there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Find more tips in Luz Calvo and Catriona Rueda Esquibel’s cookbook \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.indiebound.org/book/9781551525921\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Decolonize Your Diet\u003c/a>\u003cem>, and \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/11/15/6-foods-native-to-the-americas/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">learn more about foods that are native to the Americas\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"In 'Decolonize Your Diet', Bay Area professors Luz Calvo and Catriona Rueda Esquibel redefine \"traditional\" Mexican food and explore indigenous traditions that are still kept alive today.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1574789284,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":22,"wordCount":1256},"headData":{"title":"What It Means to Decolonize Your Diet | KQED","description":"In 'Decolonize Your Diet', Bay Area professors Luz Calvo and Catriona Rueda Esquibel redefine "traditional" Mexican food and explore indigenous traditions that are still kept alive today.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"What It Means to Decolonize Your Diet","datePublished":"2019-11-19T16:25:36.000Z","dateModified":"2019-11-26T17:28:04.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"135518 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=135518","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/11/19/what-it-means-to-decolonize-your-diet/","disqusTitle":"What It Means to Decolonize Your Diet","path":"/bayareabites/135518/what-it-means-to-decolonize-your-diet","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ci>by Savannah Kuang, CUESA Staff\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we approach Thanksgiving and the holiday season, many families are preparing to celebrate this holiday with gratitude, food, and quality time together. However, Thanksgiving also comes with painful colonial origins and a reminder of the atrocities indigenous peoples had to face, and still face to this day. Stories told about the first Thanksgiving \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2017/11/21/us/thanksgiving-myths-fact-check.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">erase that history and cover up difficult truths\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"news_11638976,arts_13850246","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nThanksgiving also provides an opportunity to dismantle that narrative and decolonize the American tradition, which can be done through food, standing in solidarity with indigenous communities, and learning about the history that goes against the American mythos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In their cookbook \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.indiebound.org/book/9781551525921\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Decolonize Your Diet: Plant-Based Mexican-American Recipes for Health and Healing\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, Bay Area professors Luz Calvo and Catriona Rueda Esquibel reclaim the pre-colonial roots of Mexican cuisine, exploring indigenous traditions that are still kept alive today. They promote a plant-based diet rich in plants native to the Americas while embracing food as medicine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We spoke with Luz about how our American food system has been colonized, how we can disrupt that system, and what we can do to honor and preserve the foodways of America’s native and rightful inhabitants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135521\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135521\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/calvo_esquibel.jpg\" alt=\"Bay Area professors Luz Calvo and Catriona Rueda Esquibel\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1000\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/calvo_esquibel.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/calvo_esquibel-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/calvo_esquibel-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/calvo_esquibel-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/calvo_esquibel-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/calvo_esquibel-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bay Area professors Luz Calvo and Catriona Rueda Esquibel \u003ccite>(Tracey Kusiewicz/Foodie Photography)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: Can you tell us a bit about your and Catriona’s backgrounds, and what inspired you to write this cookbook?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Luz Calvo:\u003c/strong> Catriona and I are both Latinx and scholars of Latinx studies, and one side of both of our families are from Sonora, Mexico. But what really motivated us to write this cookbook was my breast cancer diagnosis in 2006. It was a big moment for me because I needed to figure out what constitutes healthy eating, but also what I should be eating. I did tons of research, and my findings on cancer-related diets were mostly based on the Mediterranean diet as a model for healthy eating, which wasn’t satisfying to me in terms of the food I grew up eating. So both of us started researching ancestral Mexican diets and food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We found a \u003ca href=\"https://cebp.aacrjournals.org/content/14/12/2905\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">2005 San Francisco based study\u003c/a> that showed Latinx born in the United States have twice the risk of breast cancer compared to Latinx who were born in their home country. This flipped the switch for us because we started to wonder about why one group is impacted by this more than the other, and this turned into more questions. Dietary factors were briefly mentioned in the study, but it didn’t explain why.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, we did more research and found a phenomenon called the Latina/o Immigrant Paradox, which is that overall, Latinx immigrants arrive in the United States a lot healthier, and throughout generations, they start to lose the health benefits they had when they arrived. With that in mind, it started to feel right to eat this way, and we dove deeper into this way of eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135522\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135522\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonizeyourdiet.jpg\" alt=\"Decolonize Your Diet by Luz Calvo and Catriona Rueda Esquibel\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1687\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonizeyourdiet.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonizeyourdiet-160x180.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonizeyourdiet-800x900.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonizeyourdiet-768x864.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonizeyourdiet-1020x1147.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonizeyourdiet-1067x1200.jpg 1067w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Decolonize Your Diet by Luz Calvo and Catriona Rueda Esquibel\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How has the food system been colonized in the Americas?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we looked at the foods of Mesoamerica, we looked at the healthiest foods that were grown by indigenous peoples for thousands of years and that continue to be grown today, such as beans, corn, squash, \u003cem>quelites\u003c/em> (edible wild greens, specifically \u003ca href=\"https://cuesa.org/food/lambsquarters\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">lambsquarters\u003c/a>), and \u003cem>verdolagas\u003c/em> (\u003ca href=\"https://cuesa.org/food/purslane\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">purslane\u003c/a>). Most of this diet is plant-based. When the Spaniards came, they introduced meat such as pork and beef, as well as sugar. These types of food have historically caused many health problems. So, as a political statement and analysis, we wanted to draw attention to the multi-facets of colonization toward Chicanx/Latinx people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, there’s also the colonization of the Southwest, which imposed the American diet on Mexican communities. At the turn of the century, Americans have tried to convince Mexican mothers to start feeding their kids sandwiches instead of tacos, and that white bread was better than corn tortillas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I think about decolonizing our diet, it’s not just about health because our bodies are connected to the air, the water, and the food supply. We have to be thinking about bigger issues and focus on decolonization as a framework. Moreover, we have to acknowledge that farmworkers are also being exploited in the fields so that we can eat fresh vegetables, and the water is being polluted while indigenous peoples have been denied access to their land for ceremonies and growing their food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135523\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135523\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonize-dishes.jpg\" alt=\"Plant-based dishes discussed in 'Decolonize Your Diet'\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1000\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonize-dishes.jpg 1500w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonize-dishes-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonize-dishes-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonize-dishes-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonize-dishes-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/decolonize-dishes-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When the Spaniards came, they introduced meat such as pork and beef, as well as sugar. \u003ccite>(Tracey Kusiewicz/Foodie Photography)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are some of the common misconceptions about Mexican food that you’re addressing in your cookbook?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you look at Mexican cuisine regionally and also throughout time, there have been infinite variations on every dish. For example, we like to talk about tamales. Here in the United States, especially California, there are particular varieties of tamales that have been considered “authentic.” But that’s not quite true. If you go to Mexico today, you can see so many different kinds of tamales that we have never heard of. Also, if you look at this historically, tamales were sold with a wide array of fillings, many of which were plant-based, sweet, or filled with animal meat that was hunted beforehand. There’s also that misconception where Mexican food is very meat- and cheese-based. It’s not that common for people to eat that way in Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are some native ingredients available here in the Bay Area that folks may not be aware of?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s a huge lack of knowledge around these ingredients, such as tomatoes, squash, and corn. The assumption is that tomatoes originated in Italy, which isn’t true because the seeds are cultivated from here. You can also find squash in farmers markets with Italian names, when in fact they’re native to the Americas. I’ve also seen \u003cem>verdolaga\u003c/em> (purslane) in farmers markets, which I think is cool to be reclaimed, as well as \u003cem>quelites\u003c/em> (lambsquarters) and wild onions. Verdolaga tends to grow wild in the fields and has traditionally been a part of Mexican diets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135524\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1200px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135524\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/lambsquarters.jpeg\" alt=\"Edible wild greens (lambsquarters)\" width=\"1200\" height=\"800\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/lambsquarters.jpeg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/lambsquarters-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/lambsquarters-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/lambsquarters-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/lambsquarters-1020x680.jpeg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Edible wild greens (lambsquarters) \u003ccite>(CUESA)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Thinking about Thanksgiving, a holiday rooted in America’s colonial history, what are some ways we can start decolonizing what we eat?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One thing we always think about in terms of decolonization is the importance of having gratitude, offering blessings, and recognizing the labor that went into the food. Grounding ourselves in gratitude and appreciation as a daily practice can be vital toward food decolonization.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also want to point out that we can take personal steps to decolonize how we eat, but I also think that we should take active stances of solidarity with indigenous peoples on this land. Learn about the food you’re eating and the labor that made it possible for that food to come to your table. Because all of this is interconnected, we have to step up our engagement in political processes that are affecting us as humans and the planet. America has a complex colonial history, so we have to start becoming more aware of these issues in order to get there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Find more tips in Luz Calvo and Catriona Rueda Esquibel’s cookbook \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.indiebound.org/book/9781551525921\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Decolonize Your Diet\u003c/a>\u003cem>, and \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/11/15/6-foods-native-to-the-americas/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">learn more about foods that are native to the Americas\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/135518/what-it-means-to-decolonize-your-diet","authors":["5484"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_95","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_2407","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1763"],"tags":["bayareabites_237","bayareabites_758","bayareabites_15584"],"featImg":"bayareabites_135520","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_134397":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_134397","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"134397","score":null,"sort":[1565736230000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-story-of-netflixs-las-cronicas-del-taco-is-a-bay-area-story-too","title":"The Story of Netflix's 'Las Crónicas Del Taco' Is a Bay Area Story Too","publishDate":1565736230,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_129463,bayareabites_101583' label='More Taco Stories']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The late L.A. Times restaurant critic, Jonathan Gold used to say about tacos, “...when we move to New York or Paris, it is tacos that haunt our dreams; when we are hungry after a night of dancing, it is the taqueros who nourish us, who appear precisely where and when we need them the most.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gold was right, and if he were alive today, he would be incredibly proud to see that \u003ca href=\"https://www.lataco.com/a-cold-email-from-a-food-obsessed-teen-why-i-owe-everything-to-jonathan-gold/\">his former restaurant scout, Javier Cabral\u003c/a> (now editor of L.A. Taco) became an associate producer and taco scout behind the recently premiered Netflix series, \u003cem>Las Crónicas del Taco\u003c/em> (Taco Chronicles). The show takes viewers on a journey through various parts of Mexico, to dissect how tacos such as asada, al pastor, carnitas, barbacoa, canasta, and guisados land on your plate, their history, and the labor of love behind them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134410\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134410\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/las-cronicas-del-taco-concept-art-e1565712544229.jpg\" alt=\"Netflix's documentary series 'Las Crónicas del Taco' was released in July 2019.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Netflix's documentary series 'Las Crónicas del Taco' \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Netflix)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cabral became involved with the project thanks to the creator of the series, Mexican producer, Pablo Cruz. For those not familiar with his work, Cruz is behind projects such as the movie \u003cem>Miss Bala\u003c/em> starring Gina Rodriguez, the AMC TV show, \u003cem>Fear The Walking Dead\u003c/em>, and the Spanish series, \u003cem>Luis Miguel\u003c/em> (now streaming on Netflix).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We had an instant creative food chemistry, we both love food in a very obsessive and human level,” Cabral said. “We love the stories of the people behind it, especially now in this day and age where that stuff really matters for political and ethical reasons.” The two initially met years prior over Korean style smoked duck bbq at a restaurant in L.A.'s Koreatown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their eye, not only for the delectable visions of the tacos in each episode but also the personal stories behind it, genuinely sets the series apart from others currently streaming on the platform. And so, Cabral set off on a year-long mission to find the taqueros and their respective taquerias that would ultimately land in the show. The hashtag \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/tacosforpablo/\">#tacosforpablo\u003c/a> on Instagram showcases his journey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>http://www.instagram.com/p/Bv5-jg0BZNT/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What they wanted was for viewers in both Mexico and the United States to feel connected to each episode. Living in L.A., Cabral captured noticeable cultural differences between the way tacos are seen in Mexico versus here in the states. “In the U.S., tacos are taken for granted, its deliciousness, and cost-effectiveness,” Cabral said of some people expecting a taco to be cheap. “In Mexico, tacos are just tacos, people just love them. Tacos are celebrated as a way of life.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Tacos are a collective experience,” Cruz said. “Mexicans don’t take them for granted.” For Cruz, tacos are unequivocal, the maximum representative of Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While working on the series, he also wanted to avoid the Taco Chronicles from being seen from an outside perspective. Instead of celebrity chefs, each episode is narrated by the taco itself thanks to the work of voiceover actors. “We wanted to give each type of taco a personality,” Cruz said of the distinctive voice narrating each episode. The goal, Cruz added was to showcase the actual taqueros. “There’s no one better to talk about their creative food journey, than the taqueros themselves.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The process taqueros work through—how they develop their craft—is something he knows doesn’t only happen in Mexico, and can also be seen here in the states. His favorite place comes out of the neighborhood in L.A. where he resides. “Just imagine the story, an immigrant family from Oaxaca, they come [to the states] and set up their taco stand.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Series creator Cruz said, “the taco is an art, [and] this series pays homage to tradition.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in the Bay Area, there are countless similar stories of perseverance. Some of the best food you have probably eaten comes thanks to the labor of immigrants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134412\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134412\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Business partners Leonel Oblea and Victor Guzman in front of their taco truck, La Santa Torta. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For business partners Leonel (Leo) Oblea and Victor Guzman, opening the taco truck \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lasantatorta/?hl=en\">La Santa Torta\u003c/a> where they specialize in Jalisco style birria and consome was a result of wrongdoings by the Trump Administration. Both Oblea and Guzman are Dreamers (a name given to young adults who came to the States as kids at no fault of their own). Both are \u003ca href=\"https://www.nilc.org/issues/daca/\">DACA\u003c/a> recipients (the Deferred Action for Childhood Arrivals is a policy implemented by the Obama Administration which granted Dreamers the opportunity to apply for a work permit).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In March of 2018, the program was rescinded by the then Attorney General Jeff Sessions. It meant that thousands of Dreamers were put back in limbo, and many whose work permits expired that year would lose their status. Oblea and Guzman were two of those Dreamers who lost their jobs after their work permits expired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134419\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134419\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos.jpg\" alt=\"La Santa Torta specializes in Jalisco style birria and consome.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Santa Torta specializes in Jalisco style birria and consome. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For Oblea, the labor of love behind the food at La Santa Torta is deeply personal for him. “My goal [with my food] is to make people feel like they are back in Jalisco,” Oblea who is unable to return to Mexico said. Thanks to a ruling in the U.S. district court in the District of Columbia, he and Guzman are able to renew their work permits once more (DACA recipients who previously held a work permit can submit the $495 fee to renew their two-year work permit).\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_132646,bayareabites_118885' align='left' label='Eat More Tacos']\u003cbr>\nIn the year-and-half, since they opened, Oblea and Guzman already have a second truck, and their goal is to expand to a brick and mortar in Oakland. They see their food and service as a way to help those who are much like them and cannot travel back to Mexico. “Our spices come from the mercado de abastos in Guadalajara,” Oblea said. “My grandma goes out there and brings us back chiles de Yahualica which we use in our salsa, and spices for the birria.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our food is comfort food,” Oblea said of making his customers feel close to home. “It tastes like Mexico, it takes them back [in the form a taco de birria].”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134413\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134413\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic.jpg\" alt=\"Dominic Prado, the taquero behind Tacos El Último Baile\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dominic Prado, the taquero behind Tacos El Último Baile \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Dominic Prado)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not far from the Jack London Square neighborhood where you can find La Santa Torta, another taco truck is gaining notoriety and a cult following. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tacoselultimobaile/?hl=en\">Tacos El Último Baile\u003c/a> started off as a taco stand, much like Pablo Cruz’s favorite place in L.A.. Back in 2016, Dominic Prado, the taquero behind it, started out of the outdoor space of The Legionnaire Saloon, a bar in the Uptown neighborhood of Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Prado is the proud owner of an actual truck. Most weekends, you’ll catch him at “23rd and Telegraph,” as he often advertises on the business’s Instagram account. Other times, you might see the truck outside of Bandcamp off Broadway, but still in the same vicinity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Prado who spent time in Mexico, the best tacos al pastor he’s ever tried are from the Mexican state of Morelos in the city of Cuernavaca. The best asada out of the many places here in the States and in Mexico where he has tried tacos? “In Tijuana, but also, Calexico has better tacos than Mexicali,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prado takes pride in making the asada and chicken meat al carbon. A process which basically means grilling meat over mesquite charcoal. “Not all charcoal is the same,” Prado said. He has a favorite type which is a quintessential part of his secrets behind how he grills the meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134414\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134414\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos.jpg\" alt=\"Prado makes his asada and chicken meat al carbon.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prado makes his asada and chicken meat al carbon. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area taquero scene is such that instead of competitiveness, you’ll often see taqueros like Miguel Escobedo of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/alpastorpapi415/?hl=en\">Al Pastor Papi\u003c/a> rooting for other comrades and posting pictures of them on his social media. \"Those are the homies,” he said of La Santa Torta and Tacos El Último Baile.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Escobedo is a recognized name and face in the Bay Area food scene. For many years, he was part-owner of a popular Mexican restaurant in San Francisco. In 2012, he competed in the Food Network show \u003cem>Chopped\u003c/em>. Escobedo also competed in \u003cem>Throwdown with Bobby Flay\u003c/em>, where his triple threat burrito was the champion against the Food Network chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before his departure from the restaurant in San Francisco, Escobedo had been looking into incorporating tacos al pastor into the menu, but he also wanted his tacos to represent their pure form. “I wanted to go back home and keep it one hundred percent real,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134415\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134415\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit.jpg\" alt=\"A trompo is a vertical grill in which the pork meat for al pastor tacos is slowly cooked.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A trompo is a vertical grill in which the pork meat for al pastor tacos is slowly cooked. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In order to do this, his first order of business was to order a trompo, the vertical grill in which the pork meat is slowly cooked. “When I received the trompo, and I opened and touched it, I felt like when I was 14 and received my first turntables,” the now retired formerly known DJ MR.E said. He knew he was onto something with his soon to be Al Pastor Papi taco truck.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_117626,bayareabites_103206' label='Make Your Own Tacos']\u003cbr>\nIn order to bring a piece of Mexico City (where he was born) back with him and make his al pastor tacos a success, Escobedo knew had to go back there to delve into what it would take to preserve the culture of this now ancestral dish. “I needed to get some street game,” he said of traveling to Mexico to talk to local taqueros but also to take a crash course at the Instituto de Gastronomía México.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There, he was able to learn the mother recipe of al pastor from one of the chefs teaching the course. “He [the chef] solidified my sentiments that this is where I needed to be,” Escobedo said, and everything he learned about the making of the al pastor meat was brought back to San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134416\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134416\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos.jpg\" alt=\"“The usual order is tacos al pastor, y una coca-cola [Mexican coke],” says Escobedo.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1441\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos-1020x766.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos-1200x901.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">“The usual order is tacos al pastor, y una coca-cola [Mexican coke],” says Escobedo. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Escobedo takes pride in each taco he serves, and much like the owners of La Santa Torta, he sees the gleaming faces of chilangos (a name given to those from Mexico City) who come by Al Pastor Papi to gets tacos and with each bite feel like they are back home, “the usual order is tacos al pastor, y una coca-cola [Mexican coke],” he added.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The lack of taquerias equipped with trompos is partly to blame for the lack of authentic tacos al pastor in the Bay Area. Another hurdle is an ordinance with the health department which doesn’t allow for the meat to be sliced off the trompo and served immediately on the tortilla. The meat that goes in the tacos has to first be put on the flat top, then inside the tortilla.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This added step deviates from the original way of serving tacos al pastor like they do back in Mexico City. “I want to lead the fight in educating the health department [inspectors] on what can be done to be able to get the meat right off the trompo,” Escobedo said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134409\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134409\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi.jpg\" alt=\"Miguel Escobedo of Al Pastor Papi holds up his trompo-roasted al pastor.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Miguel Escobedo of Al Pastor Papi holds up his trompo-roasted al pastor. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Just as tacos are honored in 'Las Crónicas Del Taco', taqueros in the Bay Area are sharing and celebrating their own stories and traditions through their own taco offerings.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1565736230,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":30,"wordCount":1989},"headData":{"title":"The Story of Netflix's 'Las Crónicas Del Taco' Is a Bay Area Story Too | KQED","description":"Just as tacos are honored in 'Las Crónicas Del Taco', taqueros in the Bay Area are sharing and celebrating their own stories and traditions through their own taco offerings.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The Story of Netflix's 'Las Crónicas Del Taco' Is a Bay Area Story Too","datePublished":"2019-08-13T22:43:50.000Z","dateModified":"2019-08-13T22:43:50.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"134397 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=134397","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/08/13/the-story-of-netflixs-las-cronicas-del-taco-is-a-bay-area-story-too/","disqusTitle":"The Story of Netflix's 'Las Crónicas Del Taco' Is a Bay Area Story Too","path":"/bayareabites/134397/the-story-of-netflixs-las-cronicas-del-taco-is-a-bay-area-story-too","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_129463,bayareabites_101583","label":"More Taco Stories "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The late L.A. Times restaurant critic, Jonathan Gold used to say about tacos, “...when we move to New York or Paris, it is tacos that haunt our dreams; when we are hungry after a night of dancing, it is the taqueros who nourish us, who appear precisely where and when we need them the most.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gold was right, and if he were alive today, he would be incredibly proud to see that \u003ca href=\"https://www.lataco.com/a-cold-email-from-a-food-obsessed-teen-why-i-owe-everything-to-jonathan-gold/\">his former restaurant scout, Javier Cabral\u003c/a> (now editor of L.A. Taco) became an associate producer and taco scout behind the recently premiered Netflix series, \u003cem>Las Crónicas del Taco\u003c/em> (Taco Chronicles). The show takes viewers on a journey through various parts of Mexico, to dissect how tacos such as asada, al pastor, carnitas, barbacoa, canasta, and guisados land on your plate, their history, and the labor of love behind them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134410\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134410\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/las-cronicas-del-taco-concept-art-e1565712544229.jpg\" alt=\"Netflix's documentary series 'Las Crónicas del Taco' was released in July 2019.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Netflix's documentary series 'Las Crónicas del Taco' \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Netflix)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cabral became involved with the project thanks to the creator of the series, Mexican producer, Pablo Cruz. For those not familiar with his work, Cruz is behind projects such as the movie \u003cem>Miss Bala\u003c/em> starring Gina Rodriguez, the AMC TV show, \u003cem>Fear The Walking Dead\u003c/em>, and the Spanish series, \u003cem>Luis Miguel\u003c/em> (now streaming on Netflix).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We had an instant creative food chemistry, we both love food in a very obsessive and human level,” Cabral said. “We love the stories of the people behind it, especially now in this day and age where that stuff really matters for political and ethical reasons.” The two initially met years prior over Korean style smoked duck bbq at a restaurant in L.A.'s Koreatown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their eye, not only for the delectable visions of the tacos in each episode but also the personal stories behind it, genuinely sets the series apart from others currently streaming on the platform. And so, Cabral set off on a year-long mission to find the taqueros and their respective taquerias that would ultimately land in the show. The hashtag \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/tacosforpablo/\">#tacosforpablo\u003c/a> on Instagram showcases his journey.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"Bv5-jg0BZNT"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>What they wanted was for viewers in both Mexico and the United States to feel connected to each episode. Living in L.A., Cabral captured noticeable cultural differences between the way tacos are seen in Mexico versus here in the states. “In the U.S., tacos are taken for granted, its deliciousness, and cost-effectiveness,” Cabral said of some people expecting a taco to be cheap. “In Mexico, tacos are just tacos, people just love them. Tacos are celebrated as a way of life.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Tacos are a collective experience,” Cruz said. “Mexicans don’t take them for granted.” For Cruz, tacos are unequivocal, the maximum representative of Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While working on the series, he also wanted to avoid the Taco Chronicles from being seen from an outside perspective. Instead of celebrity chefs, each episode is narrated by the taco itself thanks to the work of voiceover actors. “We wanted to give each type of taco a personality,” Cruz said of the distinctive voice narrating each episode. The goal, Cruz added was to showcase the actual taqueros. “There’s no one better to talk about their creative food journey, than the taqueros themselves.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The process taqueros work through—how they develop their craft—is something he knows doesn’t only happen in Mexico, and can also be seen here in the states. His favorite place comes out of the neighborhood in L.A. where he resides. “Just imagine the story, an immigrant family from Oaxaca, they come [to the states] and set up their taco stand.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Series creator Cruz said, “the taco is an art, [and] this series pays homage to tradition.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in the Bay Area, there are countless similar stories of perseverance. Some of the best food you have probably eaten comes thanks to the labor of immigrants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134412\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134412\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-truck-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Business partners Leonel Oblea and Victor Guzman in front of their taco truck, La Santa Torta. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For business partners Leonel (Leo) Oblea and Victor Guzman, opening the taco truck \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/lasantatorta/?hl=en\">La Santa Torta\u003c/a> where they specialize in Jalisco style birria and consome was a result of wrongdoings by the Trump Administration. Both Oblea and Guzman are Dreamers (a name given to young adults who came to the States as kids at no fault of their own). Both are \u003ca href=\"https://www.nilc.org/issues/daca/\">DACA\u003c/a> recipients (the Deferred Action for Childhood Arrivals is a policy implemented by the Obama Administration which granted Dreamers the opportunity to apply for a work permit).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In March of 2018, the program was rescinded by the then Attorney General Jeff Sessions. It meant that thousands of Dreamers were put back in limbo, and many whose work permits expired that year would lose their status. Oblea and Guzman were two of those Dreamers who lost their jobs after their work permits expired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134419\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134419\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos.jpg\" alt=\"La Santa Torta specializes in Jalisco style birria and consome.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/la-santa-torta-birria-tacos-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Santa Torta specializes in Jalisco style birria and consome. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For Oblea, the labor of love behind the food at La Santa Torta is deeply personal for him. “My goal [with my food] is to make people feel like they are back in Jalisco,” Oblea who is unable to return to Mexico said. Thanks to a ruling in the U.S. district court in the District of Columbia, he and Guzman are able to renew their work permits once more (DACA recipients who previously held a work permit can submit the $495 fee to renew their two-year work permit).\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_132646,bayareabites_118885","align":"left","label":"Eat More Tacos "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nIn the year-and-half, since they opened, Oblea and Guzman already have a second truck, and their goal is to expand to a brick and mortar in Oakland. They see their food and service as a way to help those who are much like them and cannot travel back to Mexico. “Our spices come from the mercado de abastos in Guadalajara,” Oblea said. “My grandma goes out there and brings us back chiles de Yahualica which we use in our salsa, and spices for the birria.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our food is comfort food,” Oblea said of making his customers feel close to home. “It tastes like Mexico, it takes them back [in the form a taco de birria].”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134413\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134413\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic.jpg\" alt=\"Dominic Prado, the taquero behind Tacos El Último Baile\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/el-ultimo-baile-dominic-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dominic Prado, the taquero behind Tacos El Último Baile \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Dominic Prado)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Not far from the Jack London Square neighborhood where you can find La Santa Torta, another taco truck is gaining notoriety and a cult following. \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/tacoselultimobaile/?hl=en\">Tacos El Último Baile\u003c/a> started off as a taco stand, much like Pablo Cruz’s favorite place in L.A.. Back in 2016, Dominic Prado, the taquero behind it, started out of the outdoor space of The Legionnaire Saloon, a bar in the Uptown neighborhood of Oakland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, Prado is the proud owner of an actual truck. Most weekends, you’ll catch him at “23rd and Telegraph,” as he often advertises on the business’s Instagram account. Other times, you might see the truck outside of Bandcamp off Broadway, but still in the same vicinity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Prado who spent time in Mexico, the best tacos al pastor he’s ever tried are from the Mexican state of Morelos in the city of Cuernavaca. The best asada out of the many places here in the States and in Mexico where he has tried tacos? “In Tijuana, but also, Calexico has better tacos than Mexicali,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prado takes pride in making the asada and chicken meat al carbon. A process which basically means grilling meat over mesquite charcoal. “Not all charcoal is the same,” Prado said. He has a favorite type which is a quintessential part of his secrets behind how he grills the meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134414\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134414\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos.jpg\" alt=\"Prado makes his asada and chicken meat al carbon.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/ultimo-baile-tacos-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prado makes his asada and chicken meat al carbon. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area taquero scene is such that instead of competitiveness, you’ll often see taqueros like Miguel Escobedo of \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/alpastorpapi415/?hl=en\">Al Pastor Papi\u003c/a> rooting for other comrades and posting pictures of them on his social media. \"Those are the homies,” he said of La Santa Torta and Tacos El Último Baile.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Escobedo is a recognized name and face in the Bay Area food scene. For many years, he was part-owner of a popular Mexican restaurant in San Francisco. In 2012, he competed in the Food Network show \u003cem>Chopped\u003c/em>. Escobedo also competed in \u003cem>Throwdown with Bobby Flay\u003c/em>, where his triple threat burrito was the champion against the Food Network chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before his departure from the restaurant in San Francisco, Escobedo had been looking into incorporating tacos al pastor into the menu, but he also wanted his tacos to represent their pure form. “I wanted to go back home and keep it one hundred percent real,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134415\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134415\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit.jpg\" alt=\"A trompo is a vertical grill in which the pork meat for al pastor tacos is slowly cooked.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-spit-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A trompo is a vertical grill in which the pork meat for al pastor tacos is slowly cooked. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In order to do this, his first order of business was to order a trompo, the vertical grill in which the pork meat is slowly cooked. “When I received the trompo, and I opened and touched it, I felt like when I was 14 and received my first turntables,” the now retired formerly known DJ MR.E said. He knew he was onto something with his soon to be Al Pastor Papi taco truck.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_117626,bayareabites_103206","label":"Make Your Own Tacos "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nIn order to bring a piece of Mexico City (where he was born) back with him and make his al pastor tacos a success, Escobedo knew had to go back there to delve into what it would take to preserve the culture of this now ancestral dish. “I needed to get some street game,” he said of traveling to Mexico to talk to local taqueros but also to take a crash course at the Instituto de Gastronomía México.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There, he was able to learn the mother recipe of al pastor from one of the chefs teaching the course. “He [the chef] solidified my sentiments that this is where I needed to be,” Escobedo said, and everything he learned about the making of the al pastor meat was brought back to San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134416\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134416\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos.jpg\" alt=\"“The usual order is tacos al pastor, y una coca-cola [Mexican coke],” says Escobedo.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1441\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos-1020x766.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-tacos-1200x901.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">“The usual order is tacos al pastor, y una coca-cola [Mexican coke],” says Escobedo. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Escobedo takes pride in each taco he serves, and much like the owners of La Santa Torta, he sees the gleaming faces of chilangos (a name given to those from Mexico City) who come by Al Pastor Papi to gets tacos and with each bite feel like they are back home, “the usual order is tacos al pastor, y una coca-cola [Mexican coke],” he added.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The lack of taquerias equipped with trompos is partly to blame for the lack of authentic tacos al pastor in the Bay Area. Another hurdle is an ordinance with the health department which doesn’t allow for the meat to be sliced off the trompo and served immediately on the tortilla. The meat that goes in the tacos has to first be put on the flat top, then inside the tortilla.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This added step deviates from the original way of serving tacos al pastor like they do back in Mexico City. “I want to lead the fight in educating the health department [inspectors] on what can be done to be able to get the meat right off the trompo,” Escobedo said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134409\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-134409\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi.jpg\" alt=\"Miguel Escobedo of Al Pastor Papi holds up his trompo-roasted al pastor.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/08/al-pastor-papi-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Miguel Escobedo of Al Pastor Papi holds up his trompo-roasted al pastor. \u003ccite>(Azucena Rasilla)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/134397/the-story-of-netflixs-las-cronicas-del-taco-is-a-bay-area-story-too","authors":["11624"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_2407","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_181","bayareabites_61","bayareabites_1593"],"tags":["bayareabites_9710","bayareabites_16452","bayareabites_758","bayareabites_15182","bayareabites_16451"],"featImg":"bayareabites_134421","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_132646":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_132646","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"132646","score":null,"sort":[1551716233000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"five-late-night-wings-tacos-and-breakfasts-eats-in-the-east-bay","title":"Five Late Night Wings, Tacos and Breakfasts Eats In the East Bay","publishDate":1551716233,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>We’ve all been there. We’ve been with someone who was so hungry and impatient that they demanded, loudly, that food be thrown into their gob instantaneously. Whether you’re coming from the club, a gathering, getting off that late night shift or just want to get outside for a while, we’ve got you covered. While some of these late night spots might already be your go-to destinations for all things soak-up-the-booze, maybe you’re just someone who loves to patronize eateries while the rest of the world sleeps.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Sam’s Quarter Pound Burgers\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/18401+Hesperian+Blvd,+San+Lorenzo,+CA+94580/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x808f91075f6deced:0xd3258b09fd523b73?ved=2ahUKEwjFxtH4k7XgAhUmwFQKHWTYAUsQ8gEwAHoECAAQAQ\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">18401 Hesperian Blvd\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Lorenzo, CA\u003cbr>\n94580\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132649\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-132649 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/13308681_10207652685809895_3369162299573985857_o-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/13308681_10207652685809895_3369162299573985857_o-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/13308681_10207652685809895_3369162299573985857_o-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/13308681_10207652685809895_3369162299573985857_o-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/13308681_10207652685809895_3369162299573985857_o-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/13308681_10207652685809895_3369162299573985857_o-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Drive-thru at Sam’s Quarter Pound Burger (Jerry Wong via Facebook)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There used to be nine locations throughout the SF Bay Area, but now you can only find \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.samssuperburgers.com/\">Sam’s Burgers\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in San Lorenzo and San Leandro. There’s hardly any information online about these two locations. When I discovered a website for Sam’s, I reached out to the webmaster inquiring about more information. Even he didn’t know anything, “...\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">when I did try to look them up, I never had any luck finding any contact informa\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">tion for them either.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With a little bit of dig, I found a business listing stating that both locations are currently up for sale as turn-keys. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Sam's Super Burgers No. 1 has been operating in this same location since the 1960s. The present owner has been operating the business since 2001.” These locations are incredibly convenient to two types of people: those who begrudge stripping themselves of their pajamas in order to acquire late night munchies and those who would like an alternative to corporate fast food chains. The menu is extremely limited, with only 11 options plus beverages. But, I guess it makes it easier for you to focus on what you want to order. Indulge yourself in one of their cheeseburgers, cheese fries, milkshakes and a corn dog — they’re one of the few spots left making their corn dogs in house!\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Tacos El Autlense\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/601+San+Pablo+Ave,+Albany,+CA+94706/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x808579255ab3464b:0x1a1d72988c4bf877?ved=2ahUKEwja7-GYtLXgAhWhPH0KHc5tAPUQ8gEwAHoECAAQAQ\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">601 San Pablo Ave\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAlbany, CA\u003cbr>\n94706\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-132653 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/415300_364234386930124_772756488_o-800x534.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/415300_364234386930124_772756488_o-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/415300_364234386930124_772756488_o-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/415300_364234386930124_772756488_o-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/415300_364234386930124_772756488_o-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/415300_364234386930124_772756488_o.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rodrigo and Enedina Anguiano, owners of Tacos El Autlense (Jeremy Brooks)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/hotsytacos/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Tacos El Autlense’s\u003c/a> Facebook claims, “The best tacos this side of International Blvd” and I’m in no position to argue that. When the atheists are lining up to receive a side of “porque nada es imposible para dios” (because nothing is impossible with god) with their tacos, you know the food is otherworldly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The truck used to be situated in Richmond, Ca, but moved to their current location in 2010 when the Hotsy Totsy bar asked them to fill a void. Before these tacos, Autlán de Navarro’s only claim to fame, known to me, was birthing Carlos Santana. The tacos brought the truck its second claim to fame: an Instagram photo showing that \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/BmFOpqOh79A/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Alexis Ohanian\u003c/a> brought Serena Williams there to chomp down! The truck is open late every day of the week to provide a much needed sponge of flavor to those stumbling out of the bar that the truck shares a parking lot with. This is also one of the only trucks to use yellow corn tortillas (it’s a bigger deal than you think).\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Nikko’s Family Restaurant\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/340+23rd+Ave,+Oakland,+CA+94606/@37.773379,-122.2378197,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f86ec8b346b5b:0x9b7256f535ec9085!8m2!3d37.773379!4d-122.235631\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">340 23rd Ave\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA\u003cbr>\n94606\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BVIJt9ijIWV/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Located in the middle of an incredibly busy and circular intersection, Nikko’s opened its doors in 1956. They’ve been serving the East Oakland community for 24 hours a day for over 60 years. That’s a lot of french fries. As one of two 24 hour non-chain restaurants in the entire East Bay (the other being \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1/4 Lb Big Burger in Martinez), you get a parking lot, a chill environment and affordable prices. You’ll often find an interesting intersection of late night constituents from Oakland and Alameda, since the restaurant sits right at the entrance (or exit) of the Park Street bridge. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">You’ll also find your model diner with a veneer counter and stools facing the kitchen. There’s several booths with vinyl seats. It’s best to leave any fresh leafy greens out of the equation for fear of disappointment —stick to things like their patty melts. Even better, try The San Franciscan: a beef patty on butter griddled sourdough bread slices with Swiss cheese and fried onions.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Rudy’s Can’t Fail Cafe\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Rudy's+Can't+Fail+Cafe/@37.8309642,-122.2881817,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80857e1518030fc1:0xea496f32d455a58d!8m2!3d37.83096!4d-122.285993\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">4081 Hollis St\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nEmeryville, CA 94608\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BkYL39HgQJ6/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although the Oakland branch of \u003ca href=\"https://www.iamrudy.com/menu/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Rudy’s\u003c/a> shuttered its doors in 2018, this Rudy’s seems to be undefeated as the Emeryville go-to during all hours of the night and day. Don’t even think about coming here on the weekends without standing in giant lines! There are some fun trivia facts about Rudy’s people will always tell you: first, the restaurant was named after the 1979 song Rudie Can't Fail by The Clash and second, co-owner Mike Dirnt, the Berkeley-born bassist for the band Green Day, help to establish the original Rudy's in 2002. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Rudy’s extensive menu reminds you that not everything you eat late at night has to be soaked in grease. They offer some solid healthy options like grilled chicken salads and club sandwiches. But, make no mistake, you can still find those Americana classics: patty melts, fried chicken dinners and pie!\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Monkey King Pub & Grub\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/1315+Park+St,+Alameda,+CA+94501/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x808f86bdc2f73311:0x37db1cd6d034af1f?ved=2ahUKEwjvs_SOxb7gAhXLIDQIHVBvDiUQ8gEwAHoECAAQAQ\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">1315 Park St\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAlameda, CA 94501\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BmRRBL1n4X9/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It seems like Alameda shuts down early. With its popular bars like Forbidden Island Tiki Lounge (seen on HBO’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://siliconvalleyism.com/silicon-valley-filming-locations.php\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Silicon Valley\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">) and Lucky 13, patrons are bound to be on the lookout for some grub come last call. Opened in 2012, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/18204/check-please-bay-area-season-12-reviews-monkey-king-pub-and-grub-farmstead-at-long-meadow-ranch-grand-lake-kitchen\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Monkey King Pub & Grub\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> does the job with hours going as late as 2am. They’ll even deliver during all of their opening hours. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Monkey King Pub & Grub doesn’t seem to have any stand out dishes because it’s all so good! Their dried fried ribs seem to be just as popular as their jambalaya fried rice (add optional runny yolk), jambalaya noodles, garlic noodles and chicken wings. But, one of their more unique offerings are Disco Fries which are a uniquely New Jersey creation and can be seen on a lot of East Coast diner menus. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you happen to be around during regular humanoid hours, you can also visit their Monkey King at the Brewery, which has some different food options than the pub. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Five spots to eat at night from taco trucks, Asian mashups and a diner opened by a famous band member.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1551808917,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":19,"wordCount":1143},"headData":{"title":"Five Late Night Wings, Tacos and Breakfasts Eats In the East Bay | KQED","description":"Five spots to eat at night from taco trucks, Asian mashups and a diner opened by a famous band member.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Five Late Night Wings, Tacos and Breakfasts Eats In the East Bay","datePublished":"2019-03-04T16:17:13.000Z","dateModified":"2019-03-05T18:01:57.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"132646 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=132646","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/03/04/five-late-night-wings-tacos-and-breakfasts-eats-in-the-east-bay/","disqusTitle":"Five Late Night Wings, Tacos and Breakfasts Eats In the East Bay","path":"/bayareabites/132646/five-late-night-wings-tacos-and-breakfasts-eats-in-the-east-bay","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>We’ve all been there. We’ve been with someone who was so hungry and impatient that they demanded, loudly, that food be thrown into their gob instantaneously. Whether you’re coming from the club, a gathering, getting off that late night shift or just want to get outside for a while, we’ve got you covered. While some of these late night spots might already be your go-to destinations for all things soak-up-the-booze, maybe you’re just someone who loves to patronize eateries while the rest of the world sleeps.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Sam’s Quarter Pound Burgers\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/18401+Hesperian+Blvd,+San+Lorenzo,+CA+94580/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x808f91075f6deced:0xd3258b09fd523b73?ved=2ahUKEwjFxtH4k7XgAhUmwFQKHWTYAUsQ8gEwAHoECAAQAQ\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">18401 Hesperian Blvd\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nSan Lorenzo, CA\u003cbr>\n94580\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132649\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-132649 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/13308681_10207652685809895_3369162299573985857_o-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/13308681_10207652685809895_3369162299573985857_o-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/13308681_10207652685809895_3369162299573985857_o-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/13308681_10207652685809895_3369162299573985857_o-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/13308681_10207652685809895_3369162299573985857_o-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/13308681_10207652685809895_3369162299573985857_o-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Drive-thru at Sam’s Quarter Pound Burger (Jerry Wong via Facebook)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There used to be nine locations throughout the SF Bay Area, but now you can only find \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.samssuperburgers.com/\">Sam’s Burgers\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in San Lorenzo and San Leandro. There’s hardly any information online about these two locations. When I discovered a website for Sam’s, I reached out to the webmaster inquiring about more information. Even he didn’t know anything, “...\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">when I did try to look them up, I never had any luck finding any contact informa\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">tion for them either.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">With a little bit of dig, I found a business listing stating that both locations are currently up for sale as turn-keys. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Sam's Super Burgers No. 1 has been operating in this same location since the 1960s. The present owner has been operating the business since 2001.” These locations are incredibly convenient to two types of people: those who begrudge stripping themselves of their pajamas in order to acquire late night munchies and those who would like an alternative to corporate fast food chains. The menu is extremely limited, with only 11 options plus beverages. But, I guess it makes it easier for you to focus on what you want to order. Indulge yourself in one of their cheeseburgers, cheese fries, milkshakes and a corn dog — they’re one of the few spots left making their corn dogs in house!\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Tacos El Autlense\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/601+San+Pablo+Ave,+Albany,+CA+94706/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x808579255ab3464b:0x1a1d72988c4bf877?ved=2ahUKEwja7-GYtLXgAhWhPH0KHc5tAPUQ8gEwAHoECAAQAQ\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">601 San Pablo Ave\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAlbany, CA\u003cbr>\n94706\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-132653 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/415300_364234386930124_772756488_o-800x534.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/415300_364234386930124_772756488_o-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/415300_364234386930124_772756488_o-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/415300_364234386930124_772756488_o-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/415300_364234386930124_772756488_o-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/415300_364234386930124_772756488_o.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rodrigo and Enedina Anguiano, owners of Tacos El Autlense (Jeremy Brooks)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/hotsytacos/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Tacos El Autlense’s\u003c/a> Facebook claims, “The best tacos this side of International Blvd” and I’m in no position to argue that. When the atheists are lining up to receive a side of “porque nada es imposible para dios” (because nothing is impossible with god) with their tacos, you know the food is otherworldly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The truck used to be situated in Richmond, Ca, but moved to their current location in 2010 when the Hotsy Totsy bar asked them to fill a void. Before these tacos, Autlán de Navarro’s only claim to fame, known to me, was birthing Carlos Santana. The tacos brought the truck its second claim to fame: an Instagram photo showing that \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/p/BmFOpqOh79A/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Alexis Ohanian\u003c/a> brought Serena Williams there to chomp down! The truck is open late every day of the week to provide a much needed sponge of flavor to those stumbling out of the bar that the truck shares a parking lot with. This is also one of the only trucks to use yellow corn tortillas (it’s a bigger deal than you think).\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Nikko’s Family Restaurant\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/340+23rd+Ave,+Oakland,+CA+94606/@37.773379,-122.2378197,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f86ec8b346b5b:0x9b7256f535ec9085!8m2!3d37.773379!4d-122.235631\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">340 23rd Ave\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA\u003cbr>\n94606\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"BVIJt9ijIWV"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Located in the middle of an incredibly busy and circular intersection, Nikko’s opened its doors in 1956. They’ve been serving the East Oakland community for 24 hours a day for over 60 years. That’s a lot of french fries. As one of two 24 hour non-chain restaurants in the entire East Bay (the other being \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1/4 Lb Big Burger in Martinez), you get a parking lot, a chill environment and affordable prices. You’ll often find an interesting intersection of late night constituents from Oakland and Alameda, since the restaurant sits right at the entrance (or exit) of the Park Street bridge. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">You’ll also find your model diner with a veneer counter and stools facing the kitchen. There’s several booths with vinyl seats. It’s best to leave any fresh leafy greens out of the equation for fear of disappointment —stick to things like their patty melts. Even better, try The San Franciscan: a beef patty on butter griddled sourdough bread slices with Swiss cheese and fried onions.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Rudy’s Can’t Fail Cafe\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Rudy's+Can't+Fail+Cafe/@37.8309642,-122.2881817,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80857e1518030fc1:0xea496f32d455a58d!8m2!3d37.83096!4d-122.285993\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">4081 Hollis St\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nEmeryville, CA 94608\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"BkYL39HgQJ6"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although the Oakland branch of \u003ca href=\"https://www.iamrudy.com/menu/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Rudy’s\u003c/a> shuttered its doors in 2018, this Rudy’s seems to be undefeated as the Emeryville go-to during all hours of the night and day. Don’t even think about coming here on the weekends without standing in giant lines! There are some fun trivia facts about Rudy’s people will always tell you: first, the restaurant was named after the 1979 song Rudie Can't Fail by The Clash and second, co-owner Mike Dirnt, the Berkeley-born bassist for the band Green Day, help to establish the original Rudy's in 2002. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Rudy’s extensive menu reminds you that not everything you eat late at night has to be soaked in grease. They offer some solid healthy options like grilled chicken salads and club sandwiches. But, make no mistake, you can still find those Americana classics: patty melts, fried chicken dinners and pie!\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Monkey King Pub & Grub\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/1315+Park+St,+Alameda,+CA+94501/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x808f86bdc2f73311:0x37db1cd6d034af1f?ved=2ahUKEwjvs_SOxb7gAhXLIDQIHVBvDiUQ8gEwAHoECAAQAQ\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">1315 Park St\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAlameda, CA 94501\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"BmRRBL1n4X9"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It seems like Alameda shuts down early. With its popular bars like Forbidden Island Tiki Lounge (seen on HBO’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://siliconvalleyism.com/silicon-valley-filming-locations.php\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Silicon Valley\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">) and Lucky 13, patrons are bound to be on the lookout for some grub come last call. Opened in 2012, \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease/18204/check-please-bay-area-season-12-reviews-monkey-king-pub-and-grub-farmstead-at-long-meadow-ranch-grand-lake-kitchen\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Monkey King Pub & Grub\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> does the job with hours going as late as 2am. They’ll even deliver during all of their opening hours. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Monkey King Pub & Grub doesn’t seem to have any stand out dishes because it’s all so good! Their dried fried ribs seem to be just as popular as their jambalaya fried rice (add optional runny yolk), jambalaya noodles, garlic noodles and chicken wings. But, one of their more unique offerings are Disco Fries which are a uniquely New Jersey creation and can be seen on a lot of East Coast diner menus. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you happen to be around during regular humanoid hours, you can also visit their Monkey King at the Brewery, which has some different food options than the pub. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/132646/five-late-night-wings-tacos-and-breakfasts-eats-in-the-east-bay","authors":["11551"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_264","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_13746","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_181"],"tags":["bayareabites_16336","bayareabites_13285","bayareabites_9995","bayareabites_16244","bayareabites_16243","bayareabites_14453","bayareabites_8369","bayareabites_758","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_16335"],"featImg":"bayareabites_132788","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_132634":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_132634","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"132634","score":null,"sort":[1550868589000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"first-taste-a-native-oaxacan-chef-takes-the-helm-at-thomas-kellers-la-calenda","title":"First Taste: A native Oaxacan chef takes the helm at Thomas Keller's La Calenda","publishDate":1550868589,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>by Jess Lander\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci>Chef Thomas Keller trades escargot and frites for fresh-pressed tortillas and mole at his new Mexican joint \u003ca href=\"lacalendamex.com\">La Calenda\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Opened in the space once home to Hurley's restaurant, La Calenda shares the same couple blocks as Keller's French Laundry, Bouchon Bistro, Bouchon Bakery, and Ad Hoc—but that's about all it has in common with its Yountville comrades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132636\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132636\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4.jpg\" alt=\"Copper penny tiling on the bar top.\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Copper penny tiling on the bar top. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>The Vibe\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Focused on authentic Mexican cuisine, La Calenda radiates the joyful spirit of the traditional Oaxacan festivities for which it's named. This isn't buttoned-up fine dining; casual and family-friendly, the servers wear T-shirts and the staff is so nice it's as if they spike the air with tequila. Loud Mexican music emanates from the speakers, but even that gets drowned out by lively conversations between diners. A dinner bell that hangs from the open kitchen is rung periodically and frivolously, simply because it's fun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pink-walled restaurant has the look of a traditional taqueria, but this is Napa Valley, so it's rustic-chic, not a dive. Much of the decor was handpicked from Mexico, down to the hand-blown glassware and mismatched wooden chairs. A hand-painted mural brightens the bar area that seats 14; the bar top has a unique copper penny tiling. A large outdoor patio is set to flourish post-winter but for now, 86 seats fill the dining room and there's been a line out the door each night since the place opened at the start of the new year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132641\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132641\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-5.jpg\" alt=\"La Calenda serves up a handful of large plates, like Puerco en Mole Verde.\" width=\"980\" height=\"1470\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-5.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-5-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-5-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-5-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Calenda serves up a handful of large plates, like Puerco en Mole Verde. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the heart of the restaurant is a large open kitchen. Diners can watch the culinary team hand-press tortillas—they press between 700 and 900 each day—and slice al pastor from a spinning rotisserie.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Chef\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Chef de Cuisine Kaelin Ulrich Trilling didn't come up the ranks of Keller's world. The idea of working for the decorated chef, let alone heading up one of his restaurants, was a mere pipe dream for the 26-year-old, who grew up in Oaxaca. His mother Susana Trilling, a celebrity chef in her own right, founded the renowned Seasons of My Heart Cooking School in Oaxaca and Trilling draws inspiration from several of her recipes, like the much talked about mole negro, an arduous, three-day process that utilizes roughly 30 ingredients and five types of chiles. \"When I make mole here and taste it, I close my eyes and it brings me back to my childhood every time,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most challenging part of the gig has been adapting Mexican cooking techniques to America's health department standards. Back home, Trilling makes mole with a bamboo stick and barbacoa is ceremoniously cooked all day in giant pits in the ground. At La Calenda he attempts to recreate the pit in the oven, wrapping the meat in avocado leaves and cooking it at 500 degrees for hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132637\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132637\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-1-1.jpg\" alt=\"Four different types of heirloom corn brought in from Mexico.\" width=\"980\" height=\"792\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-1-1.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-1-1-160x129.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-1-1-800x647.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-1-1-768x621.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Four different types of heirloom corn brought in from Mexico. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>The Food\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Like the decor, a majority of ingredients come directly from Mexico, including many types of heirloom corn—from blue to red to pink—sourced from varying regions. The team will also pluck herbs and produce from The French Laundry Culinary Garden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trilling has a story for every ingredient and every dish. Even the Caesar Salad, which seems out of place, has ties to Mexico: Legend has it that an Italian immigrant invented the recipe in Tijuana. Ironically, chips and salsa are actually an American tradition, but since stateside diners expect it, Trilling says he wants his to be the best. La Calenda serves six salsas total, my favorites being the habanero, which was well balanced and not as hot as one might expect, and avocado.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starting off strong, the cachete de res en mole chichilo ($13)—braised beef cheek and another one of Trilling's mother's recipes—and the quesadilla al pastor ($9), a taqueria staple in Mexico made here with pineapple and Chihuahua cheese, were both standouts of the meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I tried all six tacos ($11-13 for two). The barbacoa and carnitas top my list; both meats were melt-in-your-mouth tender. With the exception of the Caesar salad croutons and desserts, the entire menu is gluten-free and there are plenty of vegetarian options as well, including a butternut squash tamale wrapped in an avocado leaf ($6) and mushroom tacos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132639\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132639\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-3-1.jpg\" alt=\"The menu features two types of tamals, one with butternut squash.\" width=\"980\" height=\"1470\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-3-1.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-3-1-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-3-1-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-3-1-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu features two types of tamals, one with butternut squash. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For dessert ($9), you can't go wrong with the churros or the tres leches cake, which for once, isn't too dry. The rice pudding has a nice surprise in the form of a mango sauce at the bottom. Mix it all up before you eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132638\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132638\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-2-1.jpg\" alt=\"Churros are a dessert staple at La Calenda.\" width=\"980\" height=\"1470\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-2-1.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-2-1-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-2-1-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-2-1-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Churros are a dessert staple at La Calenda. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>The Drinks\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>La Calenda has collected more than 30 mezcals and tequilas used throughout a large cocktail menu ($12-$14) and curated a Mexican-heavy wine list—it is likely the most comprehensive wine list you've ever seen at a Mexican restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Admittedly, the La Calenda margarita wasn't my favorite. A little too sweet for my taste, it features pineapple agave syrup that really dominates the drink, but it does come in an Instagrammable piña cup. There is, of course, a classic margarita, which you can order by the pitcher for $50.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132640\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132640\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-1.jpg\" alt=\"The Tahona Sol is a reinvention of the classic Tequila Sunrise.\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-1.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-1-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Tahona Sol is a reinvention of the classic Tequila Sunrise. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The spicy Fenix (Reposado tequila, jalapeño-infused syrup, mango, lime, and tamarind soda) and the Tahona Sol left lasting impressions. The latter was touted as a play on a Tequila Sunrise, but I think that actually does this cocktail a disservice. Switching out OJ for tangerine juice and hibiscus, it's a great reinvention of the overrated (IMO) concoction that gained popularity in the '70s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Calenda is open daily, 5-11pm and does not take reservations. At some point in February, they will open for lunch as well from 11am to 5pm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.7x7.com/-1-2626773823.html\">7x7 Bay Area\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Chef Thomas Keller trades escargot and frites for fresh-pressed tortillas and mole at his new Mexican joint La Calenda.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1550868589,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":1055},"headData":{"title":"First Taste: A native Oaxacan chef takes the helm at Thomas Keller's La Calenda | KQED","description":"Chef Thomas Keller trades escargot and frites for fresh-pressed tortillas and mole at his new Mexican joint La Calenda.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"First Taste: A native Oaxacan chef takes the helm at Thomas Keller's La Calenda","datePublished":"2019-02-22T20:49:49.000Z","dateModified":"2019-02-22T20:49:49.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"132634 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=132634","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/02/22/first-taste-a-native-oaxacan-chef-takes-the-helm-at-thomas-kellers-la-calenda/","disqusTitle":"First Taste: A native Oaxacan chef takes the helm at Thomas Keller's La Calenda","path":"/bayareabites/132634/first-taste-a-native-oaxacan-chef-takes-the-helm-at-thomas-kellers-la-calenda","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>by Jess Lander\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci>Chef Thomas Keller trades escargot and frites for fresh-pressed tortillas and mole at his new Mexican joint \u003ca href=\"lacalendamex.com\">La Calenda\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Opened in the space once home to Hurley's restaurant, La Calenda shares the same couple blocks as Keller's French Laundry, Bouchon Bistro, Bouchon Bakery, and Ad Hoc—but that's about all it has in common with its Yountville comrades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132636\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132636\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4.jpg\" alt=\"Copper penny tiling on the bar top.\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Copper penny tiling on the bar top. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>The Vibe\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Focused on authentic Mexican cuisine, La Calenda radiates the joyful spirit of the traditional Oaxacan festivities for which it's named. This isn't buttoned-up fine dining; casual and family-friendly, the servers wear T-shirts and the staff is so nice it's as if they spike the air with tequila. Loud Mexican music emanates from the speakers, but even that gets drowned out by lively conversations between diners. A dinner bell that hangs from the open kitchen is rung periodically and frivolously, simply because it's fun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pink-walled restaurant has the look of a traditional taqueria, but this is Napa Valley, so it's rustic-chic, not a dive. Much of the decor was handpicked from Mexico, down to the hand-blown glassware and mismatched wooden chairs. A hand-painted mural brightens the bar area that seats 14; the bar top has a unique copper penny tiling. A large outdoor patio is set to flourish post-winter but for now, 86 seats fill the dining room and there's been a line out the door each night since the place opened at the start of the new year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132641\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132641\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-5.jpg\" alt=\"La Calenda serves up a handful of large plates, like Puerco en Mole Verde.\" width=\"980\" height=\"1470\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-5.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-5-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-5-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-5-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Calenda serves up a handful of large plates, like Puerco en Mole Verde. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the heart of the restaurant is a large open kitchen. Diners can watch the culinary team hand-press tortillas—they press between 700 and 900 each day—and slice al pastor from a spinning rotisserie.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Chef\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Chef de Cuisine Kaelin Ulrich Trilling didn't come up the ranks of Keller's world. The idea of working for the decorated chef, let alone heading up one of his restaurants, was a mere pipe dream for the 26-year-old, who grew up in Oaxaca. His mother Susana Trilling, a celebrity chef in her own right, founded the renowned Seasons of My Heart Cooking School in Oaxaca and Trilling draws inspiration from several of her recipes, like the much talked about mole negro, an arduous, three-day process that utilizes roughly 30 ingredients and five types of chiles. \"When I make mole here and taste it, I close my eyes and it brings me back to my childhood every time,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most challenging part of the gig has been adapting Mexican cooking techniques to America's health department standards. Back home, Trilling makes mole with a bamboo stick and barbacoa is ceremoniously cooked all day in giant pits in the ground. At La Calenda he attempts to recreate the pit in the oven, wrapping the meat in avocado leaves and cooking it at 500 degrees for hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132637\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132637\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-1-1.jpg\" alt=\"Four different types of heirloom corn brought in from Mexico.\" width=\"980\" height=\"792\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-1-1.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-1-1-160x129.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-1-1-800x647.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-1-1-768x621.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Four different types of heirloom corn brought in from Mexico. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>The Food\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Like the decor, a majority of ingredients come directly from Mexico, including many types of heirloom corn—from blue to red to pink—sourced from varying regions. The team will also pluck herbs and produce from The French Laundry Culinary Garden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trilling has a story for every ingredient and every dish. Even the Caesar Salad, which seems out of place, has ties to Mexico: Legend has it that an Italian immigrant invented the recipe in Tijuana. Ironically, chips and salsa are actually an American tradition, but since stateside diners expect it, Trilling says he wants his to be the best. La Calenda serves six salsas total, my favorites being the habanero, which was well balanced and not as hot as one might expect, and avocado.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starting off strong, the cachete de res en mole chichilo ($13)—braised beef cheek and another one of Trilling's mother's recipes—and the quesadilla al pastor ($9), a taqueria staple in Mexico made here with pineapple and Chihuahua cheese, were both standouts of the meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I tried all six tacos ($11-13 for two). The barbacoa and carnitas top my list; both meats were melt-in-your-mouth tender. With the exception of the Caesar salad croutons and desserts, the entire menu is gluten-free and there are plenty of vegetarian options as well, including a butternut squash tamale wrapped in an avocado leaf ($6) and mushroom tacos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132639\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132639\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-3-1.jpg\" alt=\"The menu features two types of tamals, one with butternut squash.\" width=\"980\" height=\"1470\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-3-1.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-3-1-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-3-1-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-3-1-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu features two types of tamals, one with butternut squash. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For dessert ($9), you can't go wrong with the churros or the tres leches cake, which for once, isn't too dry. The rice pudding has a nice surprise in the form of a mango sauce at the bottom. Mix it all up before you eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132638\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132638\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-2-1.jpg\" alt=\"Churros are a dessert staple at La Calenda.\" width=\"980\" height=\"1470\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-2-1.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-2-1-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-2-1-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-2-1-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Churros are a dessert staple at La Calenda. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>The Drinks\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>La Calenda has collected more than 30 mezcals and tequilas used throughout a large cocktail menu ($12-$14) and curated a Mexican-heavy wine list—it is likely the most comprehensive wine list you've ever seen at a Mexican restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Admittedly, the La Calenda margarita wasn't my favorite. A little too sweet for my taste, it features pineapple agave syrup that really dominates the drink, but it does come in an Instagrammable piña cup. There is, of course, a classic margarita, which you can order by the pitcher for $50.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132640\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132640\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-1.jpg\" alt=\"The Tahona Sol is a reinvention of the classic Tequila Sunrise.\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-1.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-1-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Tahona Sol is a reinvention of the classic Tequila Sunrise. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The spicy Fenix (Reposado tequila, jalapeño-infused syrup, mango, lime, and tamarind soda) and the Tahona Sol left lasting impressions. The latter was touted as a play on a Tequila Sunrise, but I think that actually does this cocktail a disservice. Switching out OJ for tangerine juice and hibiscus, it's a great reinvention of the overrated (IMO) concoction that gained popularity in the '70s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Calenda is open daily, 5-11pm and does not take reservations. At some point in February, they will open for lunch as well from 11am to 5pm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.7x7.com/-1-2626773823.html\">7x7 Bay Area\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/132634/first-taste-a-native-oaxacan-chef-takes-the-helm-at-thomas-kellers-la-calenda","authors":["11590"],"categories":["bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_15155","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10"],"tags":["bayareabites_3328","bayareabites_16307","bayareabites_758","bayareabites_16045","bayareabites_3472","bayareabites_3787"],"featImg":"bayareabites_132635","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. 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Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. 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