The Bay Area Restaurant System Was Always Broken. How Do We Fix It?
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Bay Area\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. \u003c/span>","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a0ce8718461a291f08887a424d1ce561?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"checkplease","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["editor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Olivia Won | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a0ce8718461a291f08887a424d1ce561?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a0ce8718461a291f08887a424d1ce561?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/owon"},"rgebreyesus":{"type":"authors","id":"11625","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"11625","found":true},"name":"Ruth Gebreyesus","firstName":"Ruth","lastName":"Gebreyesus","slug":"rgebreyesus","email":"rgebreyesus@KQED.org","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":"Food Writer","bio":"Ruth Gebreyesus is a freelance writer and producer based in the Bay Area. Through stories across various mediums, Ruth explores the creation and consumption of cultural products. You can find more of her work \u003ca href=\"https://www.kotetakotet.com/\">here\u003c/a>.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/68980beab511750abbb1a58f1c768b45?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"root_g","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["subscriber"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["subscriber"]},{"site":"checkplease","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["editor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Ruth Gebreyesus | KQED","description":"Food Writer","ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/68980beab511750abbb1a58f1c768b45?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/68980beab511750abbb1a58f1c768b45?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/rgebreyesus"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_137260":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_137260","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"137260","score":null,"sort":[1589930986000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-bay-area-restaurant-system-was-always-broken-how-do-we-fix-it","title":"The Bay Area Restaurant System Was Always Broken. How Do We Fix It?","publishDate":1589930986,"format":"image","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Before the COVID-19 pandemic, the Bay Area \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">food\u003c/span> industry was in a quiet but persistent crisis. The majority of \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">restaurant\u003c/span> workers earned far below a living wage for the region, even for jobs with tips factored in. Steadily rising residential and commercial rents meant that \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">restaurant\u003c/span> owners swallowed slim margins as an industry standard that would outlive their ambitions. Farmworkers across the state toiled from dusk until dawn with no employer or government safety nets to count on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then the pandemic hit and “everything changed,” said Mourad Lahlou, the chef and owner of Mourad and Aziza in San Francisco. “It shattered what was solid, and it exposed what was weak.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From farms to restaurants and workers, there’s a lot of uncertainty that hangs over food systems and its fragile infrastructure. Amidst the crisis, is there potential to rebuild a more equitable food industry? What solutions could address the flaws that predate the pandemic? These are the questions we asked seven Bay Area food figures who are grappling with long-lived issues magnified by a new reality.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Restaurant Dilemma\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou, chef and owner of Mourad and Aziza\u003cem>: \u003c/em>\u003c/strong>The problem is not so much when we're going to be able to open our restaurants again. What's going to happen is they're going to let us open at half capacity. People are going to be freaked out about sitting around other people. We're going to start taking temperatures of people who come in. We're going to start wearing gloves and masks and have disposable menus as if we were a business that had a big margin where we can afford to do these things. Our rent is going to be the same. The insurance companies are going to charge the same premiums. Minimum wage is still the same. It's incomprehensible to even think that anybody is going to survive this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If we don't really address these issues now in a very forceful way, I truly believe that the impact of this is going to last way beyond the vaccine or the eradication of this pandemic. That's what keeps me up at night. It’s so scary to me that only the big corporations are going to have the means and the possibility to open restaurants whenever they want, wherever they want. That desire for people to share their culture wherever they're coming from, I'm afraid that's going to go away and the diversity [of the industry] is going to be damaged.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137277\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137277\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-800x533.jpeg\" alt=\"Mourad Lahlou of Aziza and Mourad in San Francisco fears the pandemic and its aftermath will decimate diversity in dining. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-1020x680.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mourad Lahlou of Aziza and Mourad in San Francisco fears the pandemic and its aftermath will decimate diversity in dining. \u003ccite>(Jude Rywelski )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There were almost immoral conditions for people to be able to survive in cities like San Francisco where people could not even afford to live in the places they work. We, as a public and as operators, talked about it quite a bit, but we were never able to turn the corner on it. In return, we were squeezing everybody from the farmer to staff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote citation='Emiliana Puyana']'For some folks reopening their doors will be a similar investment to the investment they had to make when they opened their restaurant in the first place.'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Emiliana Puyana, Program Manager, La Cocina:\u003c/strong> What we've overwhelmingly seen at La Cocina is a reduction in sales and revenue, anywhere from 80% all the way up to 100%. The food industry is incredibly difficult. It's a business with such slim profit margins where seven to 10 percent is an industry standard. Commercial real estate in this town is untenable. That piece of the puzzle has played a big role in this effort to survive the crisis. The vast majority of businesses that cannot reach some sort of full rent abatement or meaningful rent negotiations with their landlords — it will be impossible [for them] to reopen. And that's not taking into account other outstanding loans that businesses might have, rehiring so many employees and restocking your kitchens. For some folks, reopening their doors will be a similar investment to the investment they had to make when they opened their restaurant in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a really difficult time, a time that puts a lot of people's livelihoods at risk. Not just the restaurant owners, but everybody that's employed within this industry. But it also allows this industry a chance to reassess and build a system that takes more factors into account. Not all restaurants are built the same. What a small mom-and-pop shop in the Mission needs might look very different than what a small mom-and-pop shop in [San Francisco's] Chinatown needs. It's not until we start really working together with the support of folks who can bring about change and fight on our behalf that we'll see the outcome we need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137278\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137278\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-800x568.png\" alt=\"Incubator La Cocina's is offering multi-meal food boxes to offset the severe fall in revenue its businesses have experienced.\" width=\"800\" height=\"568\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-800x568.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-160x114.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-768x545.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-1020x724.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung.png 1491w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Incubator La Cocina offers food boxes from its businesses to offset their revenue losses. \u003ccite>(Gene X Hwang / Orange Photography )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We are very fortunate to not have a \u003ca href=\"https://time.com/5404475/history-tipping-american-restaurants-civil-war/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">tipped minimum wage\u003c/a> here in the state of California. But at the same time, the vast majority of our employees in the food industry are not [getting] a living wage [and] restaurant owners are unable to bear any more weight on that front. I don't know what the answer is there, but it seems like we need to ensure that we have affordable housing and more of it so that we can keep folks wanting to work in this industry in our area, which was already a huge problem before this crisis hit. Will there be anybody willing to work for $15 an hour or $16 an hour, when they're going to need to be on a crowded train coming into cities to work from wherever they live in order to be able to afford housing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria Moreno, Community Organizer, Restaurant Opportunities Center\u003c/strong>: I feel really privileged and honored to be doing this work during this time. I feel like now more than ever an organization like ours has proved to be essential for workers. [We’re] getting funds out to people, answering people's critical questions [so they can] receive benefits for those who have benefits, advocating for those who don't receive any benefits, and uplifting the voice of workers from all sectors and from all socioeconomic backgrounds. It has felt really purposeful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote citation='Maria Moreno']'This industry is so fragile and there's so many people that depend on it. Why continue to pretend that it's not a professional career?'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This industry is so fragile and there's so many people that depend on it. Why continue to pretend that it's not a professional career? It is for so many. So why don't we treat it like that? I want an industry where we're considered a real professional career. We can send that message by providing paid sick time for everyone, [by] providing health benefits, by providing ways for people to save their money in the same way that other companies allow you to [make] investments.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Inequities that Predate the Pandemic\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shakirah Simley, Director of San Francisco's Office of Racial Equity: \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was a disaster before the pandemic. Public health emergencies exploit existing systemic inequalities across the board. Prior to the pandemic, one in four San Franciscans, that's over 200,000 people, were experiencing food insecurity. And now, [that] number has likely skyrocketed. We have existing food insecurity, we have people who are laid off and becoming newly food insecure. We have the particulars of the pandemics that make it hard to access food: transportation, the need to socially distance, the need to wear face covering, limitation on store hours and the impact that COVID-19 continues up the chain for our farmers, for our producers. In the Bay Area, we are surrounded by so much wealth. For us to be tackling such a baseline need and how much it has expanded is really intense.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postid='bayareabites_136549,bayareabites_136564,bayareabites_136903' label='The Food Industry Adapts']\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't think just because we open again, it's going to go back to “normal.” This society was never normal for a lot of people. It was never normal for communities of color, for LGBTQI communities, for folks who are undocumented.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vincent Medina, co-founder, Cafe Ohlone:\u003c/strong> We come from this community that's had disease imposed as a weapon and weaponized against our people in the past. When we shut down [Cafe Ohlone], we knew that we had to turn that moment into focused work for our community: making sure that our elders [had] enough food, that our grandparents had what they needed; that people knew to prepare before grocery stores would be entirely swarmed; that we were able to find ways to provide culture to our community, even if it meant digitally; finding ways to share language, [and] spend this extent of time really searching through those old archives about ways that our community has historically responded to epidemics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137275\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137275\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-800x484.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"484\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-800x484.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-160x97.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-768x464.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-1020x617.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone.png 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino have convened with Cafe Ohlone staff digitally while focusing their attention towards caring for elders in their community. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cafe Ohlone)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Our Tribe, the Muwekma Ohlone Tribe, was historically recognized by the American government, called the Verona Band Alameda County and based on the Pleasanton Rancheria, which was the sovereign piece of Indian land in Pleasanton. That's where my great grandmother was born. As a result of UC Berkeley in 1925 erroneously writing that our people were extinct, in 1927 an agent from the Bureau of Indian affairs struck our Tribe off the list of recognized tribes. Ever since then, our Tribe has been working to have that federal recognition restored. What this means [is] that we don't have a protected land base where we could be able to live together as a community. Nowadays, what we do is we negotiate relationships with park districts. We negotiated gathering permits with certain East Bay regional parks [and] we've been able to gather our foods there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Louis Trevino, co-founder, Cafe Ohlone: \u003c/strong>The East Bay Park District and the Hayward Area Recreation District and other park districts in the area deciding to close trails and parks [where it is] difficult to social distance is a responsible thing to do, but it is also a way that the park districts are exercising the ability to lock the gates. [Doing so] excludes the most local indigenous people, Vincent's family here in the East Bay, the Muwekma Ohlone Tribe, from being able to go out into their ancestral places. It sheds light on the fact that even though today we have been able to negotiate leverage positive relationships with the East Bay park park district, that relationship still exists within a colonial framework.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote citation='Vincent Medina']'In this time of a slowdown, we can really dream and imagine.'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vincent Medina: \u003c/strong>We want to make sure that we're continuing to do what we do, where we gather our foods with prayer and gratitude. We feed our community and we teach the public. But we also know that whatever we're going to do into the future, it's going to have to move slowly, carefully and cautiously. And Cafe Ohlone, it’s not going to look exactly like what it did before the shutdown where the cafe was so full that we would have to turn some people away for that time and invite them back. One of the potential outcomes of all of this could be this beautiful transformative time where a lot of those flaws that are having light shed on them can be corrected and fixed. In this time of a slowdown, we can really dream and imagine right now as we're, as we're all stuck inside. We know that our wisdom as Ohlone people and the wisdom that our elders carry and teach is more needed right now than ever. It has the ability to teach us that there's a better way forward that can transform the faltering society that we're living in, into something that's much more meaningful and richer.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Finding Solutions and Leveraging Momentum\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shakirah Simley: \u003c/strong>Sometimes what you see within pandemics is that you can be more flexible and creative in thinking about recovery. Advocates have been working for half a decade to get people to be able to buy groceries online with food stamps, and it happened in a snap. I'm hoping [we keep] the flexibility and adaptability of some of these federal and state programs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm hoping there's a greater appreciation or direct relationships with people who feed you, from restaurant owners to farmers to artisans folks to your grocer. People are asking themselves, \"If our industrial food system fails, what can I get locally to help me meet this need?\" [The answer] is built on relationships.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of our local restaurants, farmers markets and grocers have rather been extremely adaptive. That’s really powerful and I hope they're able to sustain that model and so we'd have more community, neighborhood-based feeding models. Even from aunty who lives in one housing development making plates for everybody and delivering it door to door with plates wrapped in aluminum foil. That needs to be maintained. The industry itself is stepping up and being adaptive, but there's individual people who have stepped up to feed their neighborhood, and often for free.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou: \u003c/strong>The majority of the work we've been doing with [Bay Area Hospitality Coalition] is to help the community and our fellow industry people. But at the same time, it's been good for us because we are talking to each other. It's a therapeutic session every day where we cry one day, we yell one day, we laugh one day. We're supportive of each other and it's been really wonderful. I've never been closer to my chef or hospitality community as much as I am right now. One of the ideas that I had was to ask the federal or state government to compensate us if we're mandated to open at half capacity. To compensate the other half so that we are able to pay people what we're supposed to pay them. We are able to pay our rents without being harassed. We are able to pay our purveyors, our farmers without asking them to wait 30 days or 60 days before they get a check.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137273\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137273\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Restaurant Opportunity Center's Maria Moreno is working towards safety nets for undocumented workers in the restaurant industry. \" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Restaurant Opportunity Center's Maria Moreno insists service work in the restaurant industry be treated as a career. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Maria Moreno)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria Moreno: \u003c/strong>Right now we're working on a “right to return” policy to ensure that workers who were already hired by restaurants all over the Bay Area actually have a place to come back to. And not just in restaurants, but all kinds of jobs. The policy requires [businesses] to rehire laid-off workers before hiring other people. If they only need 50% of the staff that they had before, that's okay. They just have to bring back laid-off workers who have worked there the longest and in qualifications that they need until they have as many workers as they need. It's not asking businesses to take on more than they can handle.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Personal and Corporate Accountability\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Jocelyn Jackson, co-founder of People’s Kitchen Collective:\u003c/strong> People want to say “You have my thoughts and prayers,” or there's the feeling of wanting to do the hero worship [of] the folks that are on the frontline. I appreciate the intention of that, but what doesn't happen at that celebration of their sacrifice is acknowledging that the people deeply impacted by these capitalists or profit-driven decisions are being put in harm's way. It doesn't matter if we call them heroes if they can't also be supported in their humanity. And that means having the pay that respects the value of who they are, the safety equipment that they need, the healthcare that they need, the housing. To have the visibility that's required for our economy to totally, absolutely shift forevermore away from something that invisibilizes and dehumanizes them. Folks that are getting the support like the medical community, they deserve it, absolutely they do—but are food workers getting that same support? Are they getting the offers of free meals for a year? Are they being offered hotel rooms so they can quarantine so they don't put their families at risk? No, because the disposable nature of the food community is so entrenched in the habits of this industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote citation='Jocelyn Jackson']' It doesn't matter if we call them heroes if they can't also be supported in their humanity.'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Accountability is often achieved through watchdog groups—people taking the initiative and the personal responsibility to hold corporations accountable for their actions. There needs to be a new wave of that in the activist world. It's not simply mutual aid. It's not just the activism of protest. It's not an easy task. [But] it's essential because we're using this phrase “essential workers,” and it feels like a misnomer because of the treatment that they're experiencing. The essential quality is their humanity and for that to be lifted up and for that to be amplified is one of the biggest parts of re-shaping the food community so that it is supportive of everyone at every level and not filled with the dynamics of disposability.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137274\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137274\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">People's Kitchen Collective founders Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson have spent the past 10 years imagining and working towards more equitable food systems. \u003ccite>(Sana Javeri Kadri)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik, co-founder, People’s Kitchen Collective: \u003c/strong>We don't want this to return to the way things were, and it can’t. [People’s Kitchen Collective] is always in a state of change, but I think that in times of crisis, we are more ourselves and the problems bubble up in neon in a way that they demand more of our attention. As we make decisions about how it is that we feed ourselves and each other, one of the biggest challenges for me in this pandemic is the ways we are used to supporting our community could also be harmful in terms of gathering in large numbers. We're planning for future events including Life is Living and looking to distribute food instead of gathering together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have both hope and disillusionment around [the future]. I do think that this moment is about the alienation of labor laid bare and what that means for restoring our whole selves as people. [I] think about this question that a former student of mine, Marianna Martinez, asked me: “What are our jobs outside of capitalism?” What are we really meant to be doing? Are we meant to be caring for an elder in our family? Are we meant to be a writer? Are we meant to help people start gardens? How can more of our lives be taken up with the activities where we are the brightest? I would ask that if you are a person who is waiting for things to go back to normal, to think about all of the people for whom that is not true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's about asking those questions and they're difficult to reckon with in the face of so much real loss and real fear. It is so important to think about our collective survival in a way that truly supports, not just any one person, but how we can get there together because that's the only way we're going to get there.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Chefs and organizers respond to COVID-19 and imagine what future awaits the food industry. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621634313,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":35,"wordCount":3353},"headData":{"title":"The Bay Area Restaurant System Was Always Broken. How Do We Fix It? | KQED","description":"Chefs and organizers respond to COVID-19 and imagine what future awaits the food industry. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"137260 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=137260","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/05/19/the-bay-area-restaurant-system-was-always-broken-how-do-we-fix-it/","disqusTitle":"The Bay Area Restaurant System Was Always Broken. How Do We Fix It?","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/137260/the-bay-area-restaurant-system-was-always-broken-how-do-we-fix-it","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Before the COVID-19 pandemic, the Bay Area \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">food\u003c/span> industry was in a quiet but persistent crisis. The majority of \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">restaurant\u003c/span> workers earned far below a living wage for the region, even for jobs with tips factored in. Steadily rising residential and commercial rents meant that \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">restaurant\u003c/span> owners swallowed slim margins as an industry standard that would outlive their ambitions. Farmworkers across the state toiled from dusk until dawn with no employer or government safety nets to count on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then the pandemic hit and “everything changed,” said Mourad Lahlou, the chef and owner of Mourad and Aziza in San Francisco. “It shattered what was solid, and it exposed what was weak.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From farms to restaurants and workers, there’s a lot of uncertainty that hangs over food systems and its fragile infrastructure. Amidst the crisis, is there potential to rebuild a more equitable food industry? What solutions could address the flaws that predate the pandemic? These are the questions we asked seven Bay Area food figures who are grappling with long-lived issues magnified by a new reality.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Restaurant Dilemma\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou, chef and owner of Mourad and Aziza\u003cem>: \u003c/em>\u003c/strong>The problem is not so much when we're going to be able to open our restaurants again. What's going to happen is they're going to let us open at half capacity. People are going to be freaked out about sitting around other people. We're going to start taking temperatures of people who come in. We're going to start wearing gloves and masks and have disposable menus as if we were a business that had a big margin where we can afford to do these things. Our rent is going to be the same. The insurance companies are going to charge the same premiums. Minimum wage is still the same. It's incomprehensible to even think that anybody is going to survive this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If we don't really address these issues now in a very forceful way, I truly believe that the impact of this is going to last way beyond the vaccine or the eradication of this pandemic. That's what keeps me up at night. It’s so scary to me that only the big corporations are going to have the means and the possibility to open restaurants whenever they want, wherever they want. That desire for people to share their culture wherever they're coming from, I'm afraid that's going to go away and the diversity [of the industry] is going to be damaged.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137277\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137277\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-800x533.jpeg\" alt=\"Mourad Lahlou of Aziza and Mourad in San Francisco fears the pandemic and its aftermath will decimate diversity in dining. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-1020x680.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mourad Lahlou of Aziza and Mourad in San Francisco fears the pandemic and its aftermath will decimate diversity in dining. \u003ccite>(Jude Rywelski )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There were almost immoral conditions for people to be able to survive in cities like San Francisco where people could not even afford to live in the places they work. We, as a public and as operators, talked about it quite a bit, but we were never able to turn the corner on it. In return, we were squeezing everybody from the farmer to staff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"'For some folks reopening their doors will be a similar investment to the investment they had to make when they opened their restaurant in the first place.'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"citation":"Emiliana Puyana","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Emiliana Puyana, Program Manager, La Cocina:\u003c/strong> What we've overwhelmingly seen at La Cocina is a reduction in sales and revenue, anywhere from 80% all the way up to 100%. The food industry is incredibly difficult. It's a business with such slim profit margins where seven to 10 percent is an industry standard. Commercial real estate in this town is untenable. That piece of the puzzle has played a big role in this effort to survive the crisis. The vast majority of businesses that cannot reach some sort of full rent abatement or meaningful rent negotiations with their landlords — it will be impossible [for them] to reopen. And that's not taking into account other outstanding loans that businesses might have, rehiring so many employees and restocking your kitchens. For some folks, reopening their doors will be a similar investment to the investment they had to make when they opened their restaurant in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a really difficult time, a time that puts a lot of people's livelihoods at risk. Not just the restaurant owners, but everybody that's employed within this industry. But it also allows this industry a chance to reassess and build a system that takes more factors into account. Not all restaurants are built the same. What a small mom-and-pop shop in the Mission needs might look very different than what a small mom-and-pop shop in [San Francisco's] Chinatown needs. It's not until we start really working together with the support of folks who can bring about change and fight on our behalf that we'll see the outcome we need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137278\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137278\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-800x568.png\" alt=\"Incubator La Cocina's is offering multi-meal food boxes to offset the severe fall in revenue its businesses have experienced.\" width=\"800\" height=\"568\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-800x568.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-160x114.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-768x545.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-1020x724.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung.png 1491w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Incubator La Cocina offers food boxes from its businesses to offset their revenue losses. \u003ccite>(Gene X Hwang / Orange Photography )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We are very fortunate to not have a \u003ca href=\"https://time.com/5404475/history-tipping-american-restaurants-civil-war/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">tipped minimum wage\u003c/a> here in the state of California. But at the same time, the vast majority of our employees in the food industry are not [getting] a living wage [and] restaurant owners are unable to bear any more weight on that front. I don't know what the answer is there, but it seems like we need to ensure that we have affordable housing and more of it so that we can keep folks wanting to work in this industry in our area, which was already a huge problem before this crisis hit. Will there be anybody willing to work for $15 an hour or $16 an hour, when they're going to need to be on a crowded train coming into cities to work from wherever they live in order to be able to afford housing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria Moreno, Community Organizer, Restaurant Opportunities Center\u003c/strong>: I feel really privileged and honored to be doing this work during this time. I feel like now more than ever an organization like ours has proved to be essential for workers. [We’re] getting funds out to people, answering people's critical questions [so they can] receive benefits for those who have benefits, advocating for those who don't receive any benefits, and uplifting the voice of workers from all sectors and from all socioeconomic backgrounds. It has felt really purposeful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"'This industry is so fragile and there's so many people that depend on it. Why continue to pretend that it's not a professional career?'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"citation":"Maria Moreno","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This industry is so fragile and there's so many people that depend on it. Why continue to pretend that it's not a professional career? It is for so many. So why don't we treat it like that? I want an industry where we're considered a real professional career. We can send that message by providing paid sick time for everyone, [by] providing health benefits, by providing ways for people to save their money in the same way that other companies allow you to [make] investments.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Inequities that Predate the Pandemic\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shakirah Simley, Director of San Francisco's Office of Racial Equity: \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was a disaster before the pandemic. Public health emergencies exploit existing systemic inequalities across the board. Prior to the pandemic, one in four San Franciscans, that's over 200,000 people, were experiencing food insecurity. And now, [that] number has likely skyrocketed. We have existing food insecurity, we have people who are laid off and becoming newly food insecure. We have the particulars of the pandemics that make it hard to access food: transportation, the need to socially distance, the need to wear face covering, limitation on store hours and the impact that COVID-19 continues up the chain for our farmers, for our producers. In the Bay Area, we are surrounded by so much wealth. For us to be tackling such a baseline need and how much it has expanded is really intense.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_136549,bayareabites_136564,bayareabites_136903","label":"The Food Industry Adapts "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't think just because we open again, it's going to go back to “normal.” This society was never normal for a lot of people. It was never normal for communities of color, for LGBTQI communities, for folks who are undocumented.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vincent Medina, co-founder, Cafe Ohlone:\u003c/strong> We come from this community that's had disease imposed as a weapon and weaponized against our people in the past. When we shut down [Cafe Ohlone], we knew that we had to turn that moment into focused work for our community: making sure that our elders [had] enough food, that our grandparents had what they needed; that people knew to prepare before grocery stores would be entirely swarmed; that we were able to find ways to provide culture to our community, even if it meant digitally; finding ways to share language, [and] spend this extent of time really searching through those old archives about ways that our community has historically responded to epidemics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137275\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137275\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-800x484.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"484\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-800x484.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-160x97.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-768x464.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-1020x617.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone.png 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino have convened with Cafe Ohlone staff digitally while focusing their attention towards caring for elders in their community. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cafe Ohlone)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Our Tribe, the Muwekma Ohlone Tribe, was historically recognized by the American government, called the Verona Band Alameda County and based on the Pleasanton Rancheria, which was the sovereign piece of Indian land in Pleasanton. That's where my great grandmother was born. As a result of UC Berkeley in 1925 erroneously writing that our people were extinct, in 1927 an agent from the Bureau of Indian affairs struck our Tribe off the list of recognized tribes. Ever since then, our Tribe has been working to have that federal recognition restored. What this means [is] that we don't have a protected land base where we could be able to live together as a community. Nowadays, what we do is we negotiate relationships with park districts. We negotiated gathering permits with certain East Bay regional parks [and] we've been able to gather our foods there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Louis Trevino, co-founder, Cafe Ohlone: \u003c/strong>The East Bay Park District and the Hayward Area Recreation District and other park districts in the area deciding to close trails and parks [where it is] difficult to social distance is a responsible thing to do, but it is also a way that the park districts are exercising the ability to lock the gates. [Doing so] excludes the most local indigenous people, Vincent's family here in the East Bay, the Muwekma Ohlone Tribe, from being able to go out into their ancestral places. It sheds light on the fact that even though today we have been able to negotiate leverage positive relationships with the East Bay park park district, that relationship still exists within a colonial framework.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"'In this time of a slowdown, we can really dream and imagine.'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"citation":"Vincent Medina","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vincent Medina: \u003c/strong>We want to make sure that we're continuing to do what we do, where we gather our foods with prayer and gratitude. We feed our community and we teach the public. But we also know that whatever we're going to do into the future, it's going to have to move slowly, carefully and cautiously. And Cafe Ohlone, it’s not going to look exactly like what it did before the shutdown where the cafe was so full that we would have to turn some people away for that time and invite them back. One of the potential outcomes of all of this could be this beautiful transformative time where a lot of those flaws that are having light shed on them can be corrected and fixed. In this time of a slowdown, we can really dream and imagine right now as we're, as we're all stuck inside. We know that our wisdom as Ohlone people and the wisdom that our elders carry and teach is more needed right now than ever. It has the ability to teach us that there's a better way forward that can transform the faltering society that we're living in, into something that's much more meaningful and richer.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Finding Solutions and Leveraging Momentum\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shakirah Simley: \u003c/strong>Sometimes what you see within pandemics is that you can be more flexible and creative in thinking about recovery. Advocates have been working for half a decade to get people to be able to buy groceries online with food stamps, and it happened in a snap. I'm hoping [we keep] the flexibility and adaptability of some of these federal and state programs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm hoping there's a greater appreciation or direct relationships with people who feed you, from restaurant owners to farmers to artisans folks to your grocer. People are asking themselves, \"If our industrial food system fails, what can I get locally to help me meet this need?\" [The answer] is built on relationships.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of our local restaurants, farmers markets and grocers have rather been extremely adaptive. That’s really powerful and I hope they're able to sustain that model and so we'd have more community, neighborhood-based feeding models. Even from aunty who lives in one housing development making plates for everybody and delivering it door to door with plates wrapped in aluminum foil. That needs to be maintained. The industry itself is stepping up and being adaptive, but there's individual people who have stepped up to feed their neighborhood, and often for free.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou: \u003c/strong>The majority of the work we've been doing with [Bay Area Hospitality Coalition] is to help the community and our fellow industry people. But at the same time, it's been good for us because we are talking to each other. It's a therapeutic session every day where we cry one day, we yell one day, we laugh one day. We're supportive of each other and it's been really wonderful. I've never been closer to my chef or hospitality community as much as I am right now. One of the ideas that I had was to ask the federal or state government to compensate us if we're mandated to open at half capacity. To compensate the other half so that we are able to pay people what we're supposed to pay them. We are able to pay our rents without being harassed. We are able to pay our purveyors, our farmers without asking them to wait 30 days or 60 days before they get a check.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137273\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137273\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Restaurant Opportunity Center's Maria Moreno is working towards safety nets for undocumented workers in the restaurant industry. \" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Restaurant Opportunity Center's Maria Moreno insists service work in the restaurant industry be treated as a career. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Maria Moreno)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria Moreno: \u003c/strong>Right now we're working on a “right to return” policy to ensure that workers who were already hired by restaurants all over the Bay Area actually have a place to come back to. And not just in restaurants, but all kinds of jobs. The policy requires [businesses] to rehire laid-off workers before hiring other people. If they only need 50% of the staff that they had before, that's okay. They just have to bring back laid-off workers who have worked there the longest and in qualifications that they need until they have as many workers as they need. It's not asking businesses to take on more than they can handle.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Personal and Corporate Accountability\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Jocelyn Jackson, co-founder of People’s Kitchen Collective:\u003c/strong> People want to say “You have my thoughts and prayers,” or there's the feeling of wanting to do the hero worship [of] the folks that are on the frontline. I appreciate the intention of that, but what doesn't happen at that celebration of their sacrifice is acknowledging that the people deeply impacted by these capitalists or profit-driven decisions are being put in harm's way. It doesn't matter if we call them heroes if they can't also be supported in their humanity. And that means having the pay that respects the value of who they are, the safety equipment that they need, the healthcare that they need, the housing. To have the visibility that's required for our economy to totally, absolutely shift forevermore away from something that invisibilizes and dehumanizes them. Folks that are getting the support like the medical community, they deserve it, absolutely they do—but are food workers getting that same support? Are they getting the offers of free meals for a year? Are they being offered hotel rooms so they can quarantine so they don't put their families at risk? No, because the disposable nature of the food community is so entrenched in the habits of this industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"' It doesn't matter if we call them heroes if they can't also be supported in their humanity.'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"citation":"Jocelyn Jackson","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Accountability is often achieved through watchdog groups—people taking the initiative and the personal responsibility to hold corporations accountable for their actions. There needs to be a new wave of that in the activist world. It's not simply mutual aid. It's not just the activism of protest. It's not an easy task. [But] it's essential because we're using this phrase “essential workers,” and it feels like a misnomer because of the treatment that they're experiencing. The essential quality is their humanity and for that to be lifted up and for that to be amplified is one of the biggest parts of re-shaping the food community so that it is supportive of everyone at every level and not filled with the dynamics of disposability.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137274\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137274\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">People's Kitchen Collective founders Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson have spent the past 10 years imagining and working towards more equitable food systems. \u003ccite>(Sana Javeri Kadri)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik, co-founder, People’s Kitchen Collective: \u003c/strong>We don't want this to return to the way things were, and it can’t. [People’s Kitchen Collective] is always in a state of change, but I think that in times of crisis, we are more ourselves and the problems bubble up in neon in a way that they demand more of our attention. As we make decisions about how it is that we feed ourselves and each other, one of the biggest challenges for me in this pandemic is the ways we are used to supporting our community could also be harmful in terms of gathering in large numbers. We're planning for future events including Life is Living and looking to distribute food instead of gathering together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have both hope and disillusionment around [the future]. I do think that this moment is about the alienation of labor laid bare and what that means for restoring our whole selves as people. [I] think about this question that a former student of mine, Marianna Martinez, asked me: “What are our jobs outside of capitalism?” What are we really meant to be doing? Are we meant to be caring for an elder in our family? Are we meant to be a writer? Are we meant to help people start gardens? How can more of our lives be taken up with the activities where we are the brightest? I would ask that if you are a person who is waiting for things to go back to normal, to think about all of the people for whom that is not true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's about asking those questions and they're difficult to reckon with in the face of so much real loss and real fear. It is so important to think about our collective survival in a way that truly supports, not just any one person, but how we can get there together because that's the only way we're going to get there.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/137260/the-bay-area-restaurant-system-was-always-broken-how-do-we-fix-it","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_17082","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_595","bayareabites_16607","bayareabites_16575","bayareabites_16557","bayareabites_16603","bayareabites_16604","bayareabites_295","bayareabites_16605","bayareabites_8790","bayareabites_289","bayareabites_16602","bayareabites_15822","bayareabites_16606","bayareabites_16608","bayareabites_8577"],"featImg":"bayareabites_137282","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_137174":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_137174","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"137174","score":null,"sort":[1589405131000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"check-please-bay-area-presents-mahilas-mamak-fried-chicken","title":"'Check, Please! Bay Area' Presents: Mahila's Mamak Fried Chicken","publishDate":1589405131,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_137157,bayareabites_137114' label ='More Check, Please! Recipes To Try']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Featured on this week's \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease\">\u003cem>Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/em>\u003c/a>,\u003ca href=\"https://www.azalinas.com/\"> Mahila by Azalina's\u003c/a> is the deeply personal project of Chef Azalina Eusope, dedicated to the generations of women who raised her (Mahila translates to \"becoming a woman\"). Azalina, a fifth-generation mamak food vendor, strives to bring mamak Malaysian cuisine into the spotlight with dishes that evoke the meals from her childhood in Penang. Here's Eusope's Mamak Fried Chicken from Mahila that you can make at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137185\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 512px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-137185 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/Mahila_5793-e1589385929424.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"512\" height=\"435\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/Mahila_5793-e1589385929424.jpg 512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/Mahila_5793-e1589385929424-160x136.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 512px) 100vw, 512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Azalina Eusope as a child. Her Noe Valley restaurant Mahila is dedicated to the generations of women who raised her. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Azalina Eusope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The fried chicken marinade has a variety of spices that really bring it to life. This recipe uses a blender instead of a large mortar and pestle Azalina grew up using in her grandmother's house. A long marination yields a dark, caramelized coating of bloomed spice, perfectly accented by a garnish of fresh mint and crunchy, sharp daikon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>To cook alongside Azalina, check out her video tutorial featured on \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kqedbayareabites/\">@kqedbayareabites\u003c/a>' Instagram Story.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137180\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-137180\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/Marinade.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"720\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/Marinade.png 720w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/Marinade-160x284.png 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Azalina Eusope recommends letting the meat marinate for 24 hours for maximum flavor development. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Azalina Eusope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Mamak Fried Chicken\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 whole chicken cut into 14 pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp ginger, peeled and cut into small pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 cloves garlic, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 whole shallots, finely diced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp cumin seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp fennel seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>5 stalks lemongrass\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tbsp salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/3 cup roasted turmeric\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup curry leaves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>8-12 chili de Arbol\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup honey\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp lemon juice, plus extra for garnish\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2-4 tbsp water, if needed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Rice bran oil to fry*\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mint, to garnish\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Daikon radish, cut in thin sticks, to garnish\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>*\u003cem>Editor's Note: If you don't have rice bran oil, you can try using any oil with a higher smoke point, like peanut or vegetable oil. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Wash and rinse chicken. Pat dry.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a blender, add honey, 2 tbsp water, ginger, garlic, onion, lemongrass, fennel, cumin, chili, curry leaves, salt, turmeric, and lemon juice. Purée until all spices breaks down .\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Rub all or half of the marinade onto the pieces of chicken.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Marinate for a minimum of 2-6 hours and up to 24 hours for ideal flavor development.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Heat oil for frying to hit 320-325F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Slowly put some of the chicken pieces inside the pot and fry them according to the size and thickness of the chicken to ensure all the pieces cook evenly. Thighs and drumstick cook for 12-15 min, wings, hearts, and neck cook for 10-15 min and breasts cook for 15-20 min.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The honey in the marinade will yield a slightly dark color from the caramelization. Azalina notes, \"Don’t be alarmed. It’s utter deliciousness!!\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Finish cooking the remaining of the meat.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Garnish with chopped mint, crisp daikon and squeeze of lemon juice .\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137181\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-137181\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/Chicken-fry-3.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"720\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/Chicken-fry-3.png 720w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/Chicken-fry-3-160x284.png 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Azalina Eusope, achieving \"utter deliciousness\" while frying chicken pieces. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Azalina Eusope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Tune in to watch the \u003ca href=\"http://kqed.org/checkplease\">Check, Please! Bay Area episode\u003c/a> featuring Mahila by Azalina's as well as a Mano and Le Paradis, this Thursday at 7:30pm on KQED 9\u003cb>.\u003c/b>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Mahila by Azalina's brings Mamak Malaysian cuisine from 'Check Please! Bay Area' to your home kitchen with Chef Eusope's Mamak Fried Chicken recipe.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621634349,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":9,"wordCount":546},"headData":{"title":"'Check, Please! Bay Area' Presents: Mahila's Mamak Fried Chicken | KQED","description":"Mahila by Azalina's brings Mamak Malaysian cuisine from 'Check Please! Bay Area' to your home kitchen with Chef Eusope's Mamak Fried Chicken recipe.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"137174 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=137174","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/05/13/check-please-bay-area-presents-mahilas-mamak-fried-chicken/","disqusTitle":"'Check, Please! Bay Area' Presents: Mahila's Mamak Fried Chicken","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/137174/check-please-bay-area-presents-mahilas-mamak-fried-chicken","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_137157,bayareabites_137114","label":"More Check, Please! Recipes To Try "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Featured on this week's \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/checkplease\">\u003cem>Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/em>\u003c/a>,\u003ca href=\"https://www.azalinas.com/\"> Mahila by Azalina's\u003c/a> is the deeply personal project of Chef Azalina Eusope, dedicated to the generations of women who raised her (Mahila translates to \"becoming a woman\"). Azalina, a fifth-generation mamak food vendor, strives to bring mamak Malaysian cuisine into the spotlight with dishes that evoke the meals from her childhood in Penang. Here's Eusope's Mamak Fried Chicken from Mahila that you can make at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137185\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 512px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-137185 size-full\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/Mahila_5793-e1589385929424.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"512\" height=\"435\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/Mahila_5793-e1589385929424.jpg 512w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/Mahila_5793-e1589385929424-160x136.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 512px) 100vw, 512px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Azalina Eusope as a child. Her Noe Valley restaurant Mahila is dedicated to the generations of women who raised her. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Azalina Eusope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The fried chicken marinade has a variety of spices that really bring it to life. This recipe uses a blender instead of a large mortar and pestle Azalina grew up using in her grandmother's house. A long marination yields a dark, caramelized coating of bloomed spice, perfectly accented by a garnish of fresh mint and crunchy, sharp daikon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>To cook alongside Azalina, check out her video tutorial featured on \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/kqedbayareabites/\">@kqedbayareabites\u003c/a>' Instagram Story.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137180\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-137180\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/Marinade.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"720\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/Marinade.png 720w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/Marinade-160x284.png 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Azalina Eusope recommends letting the meat marinate for 24 hours for maximum flavor development. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Azalina Eusope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Mamak Fried Chicken\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1 whole chicken cut into 14 pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp ginger, peeled and cut into small pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 cloves garlic, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 whole shallots, finely diced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp cumin seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp fennel seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>5 stalks lemongrass\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tbsp salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/3 cup roasted turmeric\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup curry leaves\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>8-12 chili de Arbol\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup honey\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp lemon juice, plus extra for garnish\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2-4 tbsp water, if needed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Rice bran oil to fry*\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mint, to garnish\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Daikon radish, cut in thin sticks, to garnish\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>*\u003cem>Editor's Note: If you don't have rice bran oil, you can try using any oil with a higher smoke point, like peanut or vegetable oil. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Wash and rinse chicken. Pat dry.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a blender, add honey, 2 tbsp water, ginger, garlic, onion, lemongrass, fennel, cumin, chili, curry leaves, salt, turmeric, and lemon juice. Purée until all spices breaks down .\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Rub all or half of the marinade onto the pieces of chicken.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Marinate for a minimum of 2-6 hours and up to 24 hours for ideal flavor development.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Heat oil for frying to hit 320-325F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Slowly put some of the chicken pieces inside the pot and fry them according to the size and thickness of the chicken to ensure all the pieces cook evenly. Thighs and drumstick cook for 12-15 min, wings, hearts, and neck cook for 10-15 min and breasts cook for 15-20 min.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The honey in the marinade will yield a slightly dark color from the caramelization. Azalina notes, \"Don’t be alarmed. It’s utter deliciousness!!\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Finish cooking the remaining of the meat.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Garnish with chopped mint, crisp daikon and squeeze of lemon juice .\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137181\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 720px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-137181\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/Chicken-fry-3.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"720\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/Chicken-fry-3.png 720w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/Chicken-fry-3-160x284.png 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Azalina Eusope, achieving \"utter deliciousness\" while frying chicken pieces. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Azalina Eusope)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Tune in to watch the \u003ca href=\"http://kqed.org/checkplease\">Check, Please! Bay Area episode\u003c/a> featuring Mahila by Azalina's as well as a Mano and Le Paradis, this Thursday at 7:30pm on KQED 9\u003cb>.\u003c/b>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/137174/check-please-bay-area-presents-mahilas-mamak-fried-chicken","authors":["5083","11614"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_17082","bayareabites_1246","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_16583","bayareabites_16582","bayareabites_757","bayareabites_763","bayareabites_621","bayareabites_330","bayareabites_295","bayareabites_16584","bayareabites_16581","bayareabites_1591","bayareabites_14738","bayareabites_14745"],"featImg":"bayareabites_137186","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_133959":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_133959","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"133959","score":null,"sort":[1560791749000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-food-business-incubator-that-helps-immigrant-women-pursue-the-american-dream","title":"The Food Business Incubator That Helps Immigrant Women Pursue The American Dream","publishDate":1560791749,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>[aside tag='la-cocina' label='More on La Cocina']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"La Cocina\" means \"the kitchen\" in Spanish. It's also the name of a business incubator based in San Francisco's Mission District. Since it began in 2005, it's been helping local food entrepreneurs, many of whom are low-income immigrant women, develop their small businesses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the years, many of its alumni have found success: More than 50 chefs in its program have become self-sufficient business owners, and many of them have opened their own brick-and-mortar restaurants. Two alumnae of its culinary program, Nite Yun and Reem Assil, were even recognized as semi-finalists for prestigious James Beard awards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A new cookbook, \u003cem>We are La Cocina: Recipes in Pursuit of the American Dream\u003c/em>, tells some of their stories.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133962\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/ewp2018_lacocina_teranga-3167_custom-f40d413052e155adfc8b7bb485ec076102e2f135-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Mafé is a peanut stew that Nafy Flatley started cooking when she was 8 in Senegal. She is the owner of Teranga, a beverage company she founded with help from La Cocina.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"2397\" class=\"size-full wp-image-133962\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/ewp2018_lacocina_teranga-3167_custom-f40d413052e155adfc8b7bb485ec076102e2f135-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/ewp2018_lacocina_teranga-3167_custom-f40d413052e155adfc8b7bb485ec076102e2f135-s1600-c85-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/ewp2018_lacocina_teranga-3167_custom-f40d413052e155adfc8b7bb485ec076102e2f135-s1600-c85-800x1199.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/ewp2018_lacocina_teranga-3167_custom-f40d413052e155adfc8b7bb485ec076102e2f135-s1600-c85-768x1151.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/ewp2018_lacocina_teranga-3167_custom-f40d413052e155adfc8b7bb485ec076102e2f135-s1600-c85-1020x1528.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/ewp2018_lacocina_teranga-3167_custom-f40d413052e155adfc8b7bb485ec076102e2f135-s1600-c85-801x1200.jpg 801w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mafé is a peanut stew that Nafy Flatley started cooking when she was 8 in Senegal. She is the owner of Teranga, a beverage company she founded with help from La Cocina. \u003ccite>(Eric Wolfinger)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Executive director Caleb Zigas says the non-profit La Cocina grew out of two grassroots economic development organization who found many people cooking at their homes and selling food on the streets. The vendors needed an affordable commercial kitchen space and technical assistance in order for their businesses to be legally viable. La Cocina provided just such a space, in addition to helping them develop business plans, pull city permits and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Zigas says as many as eight businesses can work in the kitchen space at La Cocina at any one time. Some can prep for a farmer's market sale, corporate catering gigs or weddings, while others might be making and packaging their food products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's just an incredible and exciting range of techniques, flavors, perspectives, age, language. And that's a really beautiful thing,\" he says. \"But I think we would be doing a disservice to reality of the space if we also didn't talk about how tense that can be, to have that many people from different places in the world come together, certainly with a shared purpose.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later this year, La Cocina plans to open a marketplace in the Tenderloin District.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Twice a year, La Cocina hosts \"\u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/\">F&B: Voices from the Kitchen\u003c/a>,\" a storytelling project where their chefs can tell their own stories, as they do in the new cookbook. Some of the chefs will be on tour to promote the book, whose proceeds will go to support La Cocina entrepreneurs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>NPR caught up with several La Cocina chefs, who shared their stories:\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Mariko Grady, \u003ca href=\"http://aedansf.com/\">Aedan Fermented Foods\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133963\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/mariko_custom-935c4e89d60db336cda2b115d8ad2237fafb6cdf-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Mariko Grady had a 30-year career as a singer and dancer in Japan, and founded a theatrical dance company there. Now she sells her homemade miso at the Ferry Plaza Farmer's Market.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1199\" class=\"size-full wp-image-133963\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/mariko_custom-935c4e89d60db336cda2b115d8ad2237fafb6cdf-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/mariko_custom-935c4e89d60db336cda2b115d8ad2237fafb6cdf-s1600-c85-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/mariko_custom-935c4e89d60db336cda2b115d8ad2237fafb6cdf-s1600-c85-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/mariko_custom-935c4e89d60db336cda2b115d8ad2237fafb6cdf-s1600-c85-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/mariko_custom-935c4e89d60db336cda2b115d8ad2237fafb6cdf-s1600-c85-1020x764.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/mariko_custom-935c4e89d60db336cda2b115d8ad2237fafb6cdf-s1600-c85-1200x899.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mariko Grady had a 30-year career as a singer and dancer in Japan, and founded a theatrical dance company there. Now she sells her homemade miso at the Ferry Plaza Farmer's Market. \u003ccite>(Mandalit del Barco)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At La Cocina, you can often hear Mariko Grady singing or humming as she prepares miso, \u003cem>koji\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>amasake\u003c/em>. Her fermented products comes in four different flavors, including mushroom and chicken, to be used in soups and sauces. She originally brought the fermenting rice and Barley \u003cem>koji\u003c/em> seeds from Japan, where she had a 30-year career as a singer and dancer with the prestigious modern theatrical dance group she founded, Pappa Tarahumara. They performed around the world, and 16 years ago, had a one-night show in San Francisco. The man who would become her husband was in the audience. She soon joined him in San Francisco, often returning to Tokyo to rehearse. But after the earthquake and tsunami hit Japan in 2011, her company disbanded. \"It was very difficult to get enough money from the government, \" she says, \"and every member of the company decided to reset their life.\" Grady focused on nourishing her family and creating a line of fermented products that she sells online, at local Bay Area stores and at the \u003ca href=\"https://cuesa.org/markets/ferry-plaza-farmers-market-saturday\">Ferry Plaza Farmers Market\u003c/a>. She began at La Cocina in 2012 and named her business after her son, Aedon. (Written in Kanji characters, the name means \"wisdom\" and \"handed down from generation to generation.\") Grady says she listens to her body carefully – both when to perform and when to make miso. Her fermented products are \"also full of wisdom about how to relate to nature and how to create a healthy life,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Aisan Hoss And Mehdi Parnia, \u003ca href=\"https://www.oynanaturalfoods.com/\">Oyna Natural Foods\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133964\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/aisan-_-mehdi_-daughter_custom-715f5cbd163f1519a23cfe5961125a9ca1675c12-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1179\" class=\"size-full wp-image-133964\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/aisan-_-mehdi_-daughter_custom-715f5cbd163f1519a23cfe5961125a9ca1675c12-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/aisan-_-mehdi_-daughter_custom-715f5cbd163f1519a23cfe5961125a9ca1675c12-s1600-c85-160x118.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/aisan-_-mehdi_-daughter_custom-715f5cbd163f1519a23cfe5961125a9ca1675c12-s1600-c85-800x590.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/aisan-_-mehdi_-daughter_custom-715f5cbd163f1519a23cfe5961125a9ca1675c12-s1600-c85-768x566.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/aisan-_-mehdi_-daughter_custom-715f5cbd163f1519a23cfe5961125a9ca1675c12-s1600-c85-1020x752.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/aisan-_-mehdi_-daughter_custom-715f5cbd163f1519a23cfe5961125a9ca1675c12-s1600-c85-1200x884.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aisan Hoss with her husband and business partner, Mehdi Parnia, hold their 3-month-old daughter, Selma, as they sell their homemade kukus at the Ferry Plaza Farmer's Market. \u003ccite>(Mandalit del Barco)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In post-revolutionary Iran, authorities can prosecute someone for any form of dancing they deem \"indecent\" or \"immoral.\" So from the age of 12, Aisan Hoss had to dance in private studios, and Mehdi Parnia had to listen to his favorite band, Metallica, only in secret. They fell in love as teenagers in Tehran, and moved briefly to London so she could study dance freely. They returned to Iran, where she ran a popular underground dance studio, but ultimately, they decided to leave their family and friends behind for a new life in California. Parnia came up with the idea for them to start a business making Iranian \u003cem>kukus \u003c/em>-- fritatas packed with fresh herbs and vegetables, with egg as a binder. They're served with pickles, tomatoes, sauces and dips. Three years ago, Hoss and Parnia launched their business, Oyna Natural Foods, through La Cocina. Now, they have \u003cem>kukus\u003c/em> stands at Bay Area farmers markets. Oyna, incidentally, is the Iranian verb meaning \"to dance.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Rosa Martinez, \u003ca href=\"https://www.origensf.com/\">Origen\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133965\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/rosa-martinez_custom-76297b0472fdff66b6c73d6a6b01cb3ef2adb790-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Rosa Martinez remembers a harrowing journey crossing the U.S.-Mexico border. Now she cooks delicacies from her native Oaxaca at La Cocina.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1196\" class=\"size-full wp-image-133965\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/rosa-martinez_custom-76297b0472fdff66b6c73d6a6b01cb3ef2adb790-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/rosa-martinez_custom-76297b0472fdff66b6c73d6a6b01cb3ef2adb790-s1600-c85-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/rosa-martinez_custom-76297b0472fdff66b6c73d6a6b01cb3ef2adb790-s1600-c85-800x598.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/rosa-martinez_custom-76297b0472fdff66b6c73d6a6b01cb3ef2adb790-s1600-c85-768x574.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/rosa-martinez_custom-76297b0472fdff66b6c73d6a6b01cb3ef2adb790-s1600-c85-1020x762.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/rosa-martinez_custom-76297b0472fdff66b6c73d6a6b01cb3ef2adb790-s1600-c85-1200x897.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rosa Martinez remembers a harrowing journey crossing the U.S.-Mexico border. Now she cooks delicacies from her native Oaxaca at La Cocina. \u003ccite>(Mandalit del Barco)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While cleaning houses and babysitting for families in San Francisco, Rosa Martinez dreamed of opening her own restaurant. For now, you can find her at La Cocina, cooking \u003cem>chilito de puerco\u003c/em> and other delicacies from her native Oaxaca. Martinez grew up in a rural Mexican village in Oaxaca, where her father worked mining stones from the river. Her mother sold homemade tamales and other food in the town plaza. Martinez left to study in Acapulco, then moved to Texas. She says she crossed the U.S.-Mexico border several times to care for her ailing father and mother and to bring her American-born children to meet them. Her final crossing was the most harrowing. Martinez remembers being crammed into a big truck's hidden metal box, with 20 other people. \"It was really, really scary. We could not move,\" she recalls. There wasn't much air to breathe. \"I thought I was going to die.\" Someone next to her fainted, and then a man offered her a sip of blue Gatorade. \"It was a miracle,\" she says, adding that since then, she's had other miracles: getting her green card, then her U.S. citizenship, and buying a home in San Francisco. Martinez started at La Cocina in 2016 and now caters and sells her food at farmer's markets while she saves up for her own restaurant one day.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Shani Jones, \u003c/strong>\u003ca href=\"https://peachespatties.com/\">\u003cstrong>Peaches Patties\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133966\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/shanti-jones_custom-1ffcb114dec1e8a15903db880a04d53bc7cd694c-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Shani Jones and her husband, Yeheyis Bedada, sell Jamaican patties at their kiosk in San Francisco's Bernal Heights neighborhood.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1199\" class=\"size-full wp-image-133966\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/shanti-jones_custom-1ffcb114dec1e8a15903db880a04d53bc7cd694c-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/shanti-jones_custom-1ffcb114dec1e8a15903db880a04d53bc7cd694c-s1600-c85-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/shanti-jones_custom-1ffcb114dec1e8a15903db880a04d53bc7cd694c-s1600-c85-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/shanti-jones_custom-1ffcb114dec1e8a15903db880a04d53bc7cd694c-s1600-c85-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/shanti-jones_custom-1ffcb114dec1e8a15903db880a04d53bc7cd694c-s1600-c85-1020x764.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/shanti-jones_custom-1ffcb114dec1e8a15903db880a04d53bc7cd694c-s1600-c85-1200x899.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shani Jones and her husband, Yeheyis Bedada, sell Jamaican patties at their kiosk in San Francisco's Bernal Heights neighborhood. \u003ccite>(Mandalit del Barco)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Shani Jones is a native San Franciscan. Her father was born in New Orleans, her mother, in Jamaica. She says their home was always filled with a variety of spices and dishes like jerk chicken and Jamaican patties – savory pastries filled with beef or chicken. Jones says she learned to cook from her mother, whose nickname was Peaches. After returning from college in Atlanta, Jones earned her MBA\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>in\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>organizational leadership and management while driving a LYFT car. She often told passengers about her idea of opening a catering company with her mom's recipes. They steered her to La Cocina, where she developed her own business, named after her mother. Five years later, she caters and runs a kiosk at a small food cooperative in Bernal Heights, where some of her handmade patties have an Ethiopian twist, \"because my husband is Ethiopian.\" Jones has big aspirations for Peaches Patties: \"The ultimate goal,\" she says, \"is to be the patty kingpin of the West Coast.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Nina Gregory edited this story for radio; Maria Godoy edited it for digital.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/06/16/730620774/the-food-business-incubator-that-helps-immigrant-women-pursue-the-american-dream\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Since 2005, San Francisco's La Cocina has helped low-income entrepreneurs grow their businesses. Some went on to recognition from the prestigious James Beard awards. A new book tells their stories.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1560791749,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":18,"wordCount":1405},"headData":{"title":"The Food Business Incubator That Helps Immigrant Women Pursue The American Dream | KQED","description":"Since 2005, San Francisco's La Cocina has helped low-income entrepreneurs grow their businesses. Some went on to recognition from the prestigious James Beard awards. A new book tells their stories.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"133959 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=133959","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/06/17/the-food-business-incubator-that-helps-immigrant-women-pursue-the-american-dream/","disqusTitle":"The Food Business Incubator That Helps Immigrant Women Pursue The American Dream","nprByline":"Mandalit del Barco, NPR Food","path":"/bayareabites/133959/the-food-business-incubator-that-helps-immigrant-women-pursue-the-american-dream","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"la-cocina","label":"More on La Cocina "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"La Cocina\" means \"the kitchen\" in Spanish. It's also the name of a business incubator based in San Francisco's Mission District. Since it began in 2005, it's been helping local food entrepreneurs, many of whom are low-income immigrant women, develop their small businesses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the years, many of its alumni have found success: More than 50 chefs in its program have become self-sufficient business owners, and many of them have opened their own brick-and-mortar restaurants. Two alumnae of its culinary program, Nite Yun and Reem Assil, were even recognized as semi-finalists for prestigious James Beard awards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A new cookbook, \u003cem>We are La Cocina: Recipes in Pursuit of the American Dream\u003c/em>, tells some of their stories.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133962\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/ewp2018_lacocina_teranga-3167_custom-f40d413052e155adfc8b7bb485ec076102e2f135-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Mafé is a peanut stew that Nafy Flatley started cooking when she was 8 in Senegal. She is the owner of Teranga, a beverage company she founded with help from La Cocina.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"2397\" class=\"size-full wp-image-133962\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/ewp2018_lacocina_teranga-3167_custom-f40d413052e155adfc8b7bb485ec076102e2f135-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/ewp2018_lacocina_teranga-3167_custom-f40d413052e155adfc8b7bb485ec076102e2f135-s1600-c85-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/ewp2018_lacocina_teranga-3167_custom-f40d413052e155adfc8b7bb485ec076102e2f135-s1600-c85-800x1199.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/ewp2018_lacocina_teranga-3167_custom-f40d413052e155adfc8b7bb485ec076102e2f135-s1600-c85-768x1151.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/ewp2018_lacocina_teranga-3167_custom-f40d413052e155adfc8b7bb485ec076102e2f135-s1600-c85-1020x1528.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/ewp2018_lacocina_teranga-3167_custom-f40d413052e155adfc8b7bb485ec076102e2f135-s1600-c85-801x1200.jpg 801w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mafé is a peanut stew that Nafy Flatley started cooking when she was 8 in Senegal. She is the owner of Teranga, a beverage company she founded with help from La Cocina. \u003ccite>(Eric Wolfinger)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Executive director Caleb Zigas says the non-profit La Cocina grew out of two grassroots economic development organization who found many people cooking at their homes and selling food on the streets. The vendors needed an affordable commercial kitchen space and technical assistance in order for their businesses to be legally viable. La Cocina provided just such a space, in addition to helping them develop business plans, pull city permits and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Zigas says as many as eight businesses can work in the kitchen space at La Cocina at any one time. Some can prep for a farmer's market sale, corporate catering gigs or weddings, while others might be making and packaging their food products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's just an incredible and exciting range of techniques, flavors, perspectives, age, language. And that's a really beautiful thing,\" he says. \"But I think we would be doing a disservice to reality of the space if we also didn't talk about how tense that can be, to have that many people from different places in the world come together, certainly with a shared purpose.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later this year, La Cocina plans to open a marketplace in the Tenderloin District.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Twice a year, La Cocina hosts \"\u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/\">F&B: Voices from the Kitchen\u003c/a>,\" a storytelling project where their chefs can tell their own stories, as they do in the new cookbook. Some of the chefs will be on tour to promote the book, whose proceeds will go to support La Cocina entrepreneurs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>NPR caught up with several La Cocina chefs, who shared their stories:\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Mariko Grady, \u003ca href=\"http://aedansf.com/\">Aedan Fermented Foods\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133963\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/mariko_custom-935c4e89d60db336cda2b115d8ad2237fafb6cdf-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Mariko Grady had a 30-year career as a singer and dancer in Japan, and founded a theatrical dance company there. Now she sells her homemade miso at the Ferry Plaza Farmer's Market.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1199\" class=\"size-full wp-image-133963\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/mariko_custom-935c4e89d60db336cda2b115d8ad2237fafb6cdf-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/mariko_custom-935c4e89d60db336cda2b115d8ad2237fafb6cdf-s1600-c85-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/mariko_custom-935c4e89d60db336cda2b115d8ad2237fafb6cdf-s1600-c85-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/mariko_custom-935c4e89d60db336cda2b115d8ad2237fafb6cdf-s1600-c85-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/mariko_custom-935c4e89d60db336cda2b115d8ad2237fafb6cdf-s1600-c85-1020x764.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/mariko_custom-935c4e89d60db336cda2b115d8ad2237fafb6cdf-s1600-c85-1200x899.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mariko Grady had a 30-year career as a singer and dancer in Japan, and founded a theatrical dance company there. Now she sells her homemade miso at the Ferry Plaza Farmer's Market. \u003ccite>(Mandalit del Barco)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At La Cocina, you can often hear Mariko Grady singing or humming as she prepares miso, \u003cem>koji\u003c/em>, and \u003cem>amasake\u003c/em>. Her fermented products comes in four different flavors, including mushroom and chicken, to be used in soups and sauces. She originally brought the fermenting rice and Barley \u003cem>koji\u003c/em> seeds from Japan, where she had a 30-year career as a singer and dancer with the prestigious modern theatrical dance group she founded, Pappa Tarahumara. They performed around the world, and 16 years ago, had a one-night show in San Francisco. The man who would become her husband was in the audience. She soon joined him in San Francisco, often returning to Tokyo to rehearse. But after the earthquake and tsunami hit Japan in 2011, her company disbanded. \"It was very difficult to get enough money from the government, \" she says, \"and every member of the company decided to reset their life.\" Grady focused on nourishing her family and creating a line of fermented products that she sells online, at local Bay Area stores and at the \u003ca href=\"https://cuesa.org/markets/ferry-plaza-farmers-market-saturday\">Ferry Plaza Farmers Market\u003c/a>. She began at La Cocina in 2012 and named her business after her son, Aedon. (Written in Kanji characters, the name means \"wisdom\" and \"handed down from generation to generation.\") Grady says she listens to her body carefully – both when to perform and when to make miso. Her fermented products are \"also full of wisdom about how to relate to nature and how to create a healthy life,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Aisan Hoss And Mehdi Parnia, \u003ca href=\"https://www.oynanaturalfoods.com/\">Oyna Natural Foods\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133964\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/aisan-_-mehdi_-daughter_custom-715f5cbd163f1519a23cfe5961125a9ca1675c12-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1179\" class=\"size-full wp-image-133964\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/aisan-_-mehdi_-daughter_custom-715f5cbd163f1519a23cfe5961125a9ca1675c12-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/aisan-_-mehdi_-daughter_custom-715f5cbd163f1519a23cfe5961125a9ca1675c12-s1600-c85-160x118.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/aisan-_-mehdi_-daughter_custom-715f5cbd163f1519a23cfe5961125a9ca1675c12-s1600-c85-800x590.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/aisan-_-mehdi_-daughter_custom-715f5cbd163f1519a23cfe5961125a9ca1675c12-s1600-c85-768x566.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/aisan-_-mehdi_-daughter_custom-715f5cbd163f1519a23cfe5961125a9ca1675c12-s1600-c85-1020x752.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/aisan-_-mehdi_-daughter_custom-715f5cbd163f1519a23cfe5961125a9ca1675c12-s1600-c85-1200x884.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aisan Hoss with her husband and business partner, Mehdi Parnia, hold their 3-month-old daughter, Selma, as they sell their homemade kukus at the Ferry Plaza Farmer's Market. \u003ccite>(Mandalit del Barco)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In post-revolutionary Iran, authorities can prosecute someone for any form of dancing they deem \"indecent\" or \"immoral.\" So from the age of 12, Aisan Hoss had to dance in private studios, and Mehdi Parnia had to listen to his favorite band, Metallica, only in secret. They fell in love as teenagers in Tehran, and moved briefly to London so she could study dance freely. They returned to Iran, where she ran a popular underground dance studio, but ultimately, they decided to leave their family and friends behind for a new life in California. Parnia came up with the idea for them to start a business making Iranian \u003cem>kukus \u003c/em>-- fritatas packed with fresh herbs and vegetables, with egg as a binder. They're served with pickles, tomatoes, sauces and dips. Three years ago, Hoss and Parnia launched their business, Oyna Natural Foods, through La Cocina. Now, they have \u003cem>kukus\u003c/em> stands at Bay Area farmers markets. Oyna, incidentally, is the Iranian verb meaning \"to dance.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Rosa Martinez, \u003ca href=\"https://www.origensf.com/\">Origen\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133965\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/rosa-martinez_custom-76297b0472fdff66b6c73d6a6b01cb3ef2adb790-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Rosa Martinez remembers a harrowing journey crossing the U.S.-Mexico border. Now she cooks delicacies from her native Oaxaca at La Cocina.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1196\" class=\"size-full wp-image-133965\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/rosa-martinez_custom-76297b0472fdff66b6c73d6a6b01cb3ef2adb790-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/rosa-martinez_custom-76297b0472fdff66b6c73d6a6b01cb3ef2adb790-s1600-c85-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/rosa-martinez_custom-76297b0472fdff66b6c73d6a6b01cb3ef2adb790-s1600-c85-800x598.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/rosa-martinez_custom-76297b0472fdff66b6c73d6a6b01cb3ef2adb790-s1600-c85-768x574.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/rosa-martinez_custom-76297b0472fdff66b6c73d6a6b01cb3ef2adb790-s1600-c85-1020x762.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/rosa-martinez_custom-76297b0472fdff66b6c73d6a6b01cb3ef2adb790-s1600-c85-1200x897.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rosa Martinez remembers a harrowing journey crossing the U.S.-Mexico border. Now she cooks delicacies from her native Oaxaca at La Cocina. \u003ccite>(Mandalit del Barco)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>While cleaning houses and babysitting for families in San Francisco, Rosa Martinez dreamed of opening her own restaurant. For now, you can find her at La Cocina, cooking \u003cem>chilito de puerco\u003c/em> and other delicacies from her native Oaxaca. Martinez grew up in a rural Mexican village in Oaxaca, where her father worked mining stones from the river. Her mother sold homemade tamales and other food in the town plaza. Martinez left to study in Acapulco, then moved to Texas. She says she crossed the U.S.-Mexico border several times to care for her ailing father and mother and to bring her American-born children to meet them. Her final crossing was the most harrowing. Martinez remembers being crammed into a big truck's hidden metal box, with 20 other people. \"It was really, really scary. We could not move,\" she recalls. There wasn't much air to breathe. \"I thought I was going to die.\" Someone next to her fainted, and then a man offered her a sip of blue Gatorade. \"It was a miracle,\" she says, adding that since then, she's had other miracles: getting her green card, then her U.S. citizenship, and buying a home in San Francisco. Martinez started at La Cocina in 2016 and now caters and sells her food at farmer's markets while she saves up for her own restaurant one day.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Shani Jones, \u003c/strong>\u003ca href=\"https://peachespatties.com/\">\u003cstrong>Peaches Patties\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133966\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/shanti-jones_custom-1ffcb114dec1e8a15903db880a04d53bc7cd694c-s1600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Shani Jones and her husband, Yeheyis Bedada, sell Jamaican patties at their kiosk in San Francisco's Bernal Heights neighborhood.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1199\" class=\"size-full wp-image-133966\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/shanti-jones_custom-1ffcb114dec1e8a15903db880a04d53bc7cd694c-s1600-c85.jpg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/shanti-jones_custom-1ffcb114dec1e8a15903db880a04d53bc7cd694c-s1600-c85-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/shanti-jones_custom-1ffcb114dec1e8a15903db880a04d53bc7cd694c-s1600-c85-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/shanti-jones_custom-1ffcb114dec1e8a15903db880a04d53bc7cd694c-s1600-c85-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/shanti-jones_custom-1ffcb114dec1e8a15903db880a04d53bc7cd694c-s1600-c85-1020x764.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/06/shanti-jones_custom-1ffcb114dec1e8a15903db880a04d53bc7cd694c-s1600-c85-1200x899.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shani Jones and her husband, Yeheyis Bedada, sell Jamaican patties at their kiosk in San Francisco's Bernal Heights neighborhood. \u003ccite>(Mandalit del Barco)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Shani Jones is a native San Franciscan. Her father was born in New Orleans, her mother, in Jamaica. She says their home was always filled with a variety of spices and dishes like jerk chicken and Jamaican patties – savory pastries filled with beef or chicken. Jones says she learned to cook from her mother, whose nickname was Peaches. After returning from college in Atlanta, Jones earned her MBA\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>in\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>organizational leadership and management while driving a LYFT car. She often told passengers about her idea of opening a catering company with her mom's recipes. They steered her to La Cocina, where she developed her own business, named after her mother. Five years later, she caters and runs a kiosk at a small food cooperative in Bernal Heights, where some of her handmade patties have an Ethiopian twist, \"because my husband is Ethiopian.\" Jones has big aspirations for Peaches Patties: \"The ultimate goal,\" she says, \"is to be the patty kingpin of the West Coast.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Nina Gregory edited this story for radio; Maria Godoy edited it for digital.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/06/16/730620774/the-food-business-incubator-that-helps-immigrant-women-pursue-the-american-dream\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/133959/the-food-business-incubator-that-helps-immigrant-women-pursue-the-american-dream","authors":["byline_bayareabites_133959"],"categories":["bayareabites_95","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_181"],"tags":["bayareabites_2172","bayareabites_295","bayareabites_16272"],"featImg":"bayareabites_133961","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_129373":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_129373","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"129373","score":null,"sort":[1532699550000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"five-la-cocina-graduates-who-now-have-brick-and-mortar-food-businesses","title":"Five La Cocina Graduates Who Now Have Brick-and-Mortar Food Businesses","publishDate":1532699550,"format":"image","headTitle":"New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":16196,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>When you step inside the Outer Mission complex that houses the \u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a> food business incubator kitchen and offices on a regular weekday afternoon, it’s easy to be overwhelmed by the busy chefs, the delicious smells of baked goods and roasting meats, and the constant whirl of activity in preparation for the various markets, kiosks and catering events coming up in a few hours. There are spots for eight participants in this kitchen and it definitely seems like a ninth would be impossible to squeeze in. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129706\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new.jpg\" alt=\"In the busy kitchen at La Cocina headquarters.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129706\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In the busy kitchen at La Cocina headquarters. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The space might be tight but the goals for the nonprofit are admirably enormous. Its mission is to find talented low-income food entrepreneurs, generally women of color and immigrant communities (a handful of men have been in the program, including the very successful \u003ca href=\"http://www.onigilly.com/\">Onigilly\u003c/a> concept). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/people\">Caleb Zigas\u003c/a>, La Cocina’s Executive Director who has been involved since it debuted in 2005, told us that the incubator’s 11 staff members avoid using words like “teach” or “empower.” These women have already identified a product that they excel at and a worthy price for it — they aren’t starting from scratch concept-wise, but they usually are just cooking for friends or selling from home. Zigas pointed out that, “They know everything there is to know about business. What they may not know is how to formalize that business into a marketplace that intentionally throws up barriers.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129715\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1.jpg\" alt=\"La Cocina's Executive Director Caleb Zigas in the kitchen at La Cocina headquarters.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1588\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129715\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-160x132.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-800x662.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-768x635.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-1020x844.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-1200x993.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-1180x976.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-960x794.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-240x199.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-375x310.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-520x430.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Cocina's Executive Director Caleb Zigas in the kitchen at La Cocina headquarters. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We talked with five of La Cocina’s graduates who now have brick-and-mortar restaurants or kiosks. There were universal problems acknowledged by all where they could never possibly have defeated certain barriers without La Cocina’s assistance — the surging real estate prices, not speaking English well or looking a certain way being chief among them. Even La Cocina itself faces some of these problems for its proposed food hall planned for the heart of the struggling Tenderloin in 2019. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Cocina’s program has three application deadlines a year and information orientations for interested individuals every other month. Once you’re in the program, it can take up to eight years to go through pre-incubation planning, the incubation period, finding capital and space, the exit to that space, and finally “graduation” when the business is self-sufficient. Yes, it can be as brisk as a one-year degree in theory but is much more likely to be a lengthy medical school and residency-type of time frame.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Cocina graduates have had incredible success in a wide variety of cuisines and business types. We talked with women serving Cambodian, Southern, Mexican, Arab and Gujarat (Indian) cooking. The current class includes Nepalese, Jamaican, Japanese and Salvadoran-themed businesses. Over 30 brick-and-mortars from graduates exist around the Bay Area (a handful are commissary kitchens).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those present entrepreneurs in the La Cocina kitchen are following in the esteemed footsteps of women who never thought they would ever call a restaurant their own. Here are the stories of five graduates who are now navigating the Bay Area restaurant scene with their own businesses.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.besharamrestaurant.com/\">Besharam\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Besharam/@37.754276,-122.3916646,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7f0ce31950a5:0x7718a923d0103fe2!8m2!3d37.7542718!4d-122.3894705\">1275 Minnesota St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129719\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new.jpg\" alt=\"Besharam interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129719\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Besharam interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Barely 45 diners can fit into the serene, colorful dining room of Besharam, a spunky newcomer located in the Minnesota Street Project art gallery complex, in a far industrial corner of the Dogpatch. Despite the small size and isolated location, Besharam screams with relentless character that can be as boisterous as the heat in the spiced garlic sauce served with the grilled chicken kebab and hand-rolled flatbread at lunch. \u003cstrong>Chef and co-owner Heena Patel\u003c/strong> decided on the name, “shameless” in Hindi, because she knows she’s different than everyone else — in her family, in the Bay Area, in the world — and she isn’t afraid to show that, hey, she’s running the show at a restaurant in San Francisco and never in a million years would she have expected that while growing up as the second of five daughters in the Gujarat state of India.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is bleu cheese naan with wasabi raita on the menu and a giant pop-art mural by \u003ca href=\"https://hatecopy.com/\">HateCopy’s Maria Qamar\u003c/a> next to the open kitchen with a Hindi woman drinking a cocktail. The soundtrack is bumping all lunch and dinner-long with Michael Jackson, Indian pop and seemingly everything in between. It’s definitely Heena’s restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129731\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Chef and Partner Heena Patel in front of pop-art mural by HateCopy’s Maria Qamar\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129731\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef and Partner Heena Patel in front of pop-art mural by HateCopy’s Maria Qamar. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, there are pavs (sliders, a classic street food) served with little gems and pickled shiitake mushrooms on the menu, co-existing with a grilled zucchini salad and fish moilee with coconut curry and turmeric rice. In the evening, there are shishito peppers stuffed with a tamarind and chickpea filling; edamame dumplings in a lentil broth; paratha tacos accented by a strawberry-mint chutney; and ghee-roasted pork chops. Heema puts her Gujarat-meets-world philosophy about the always hotly debated “authenticity” question very bluntly: “You can take it or leave it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129740\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled Chicken Kabobs: Hand-rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129740\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grilled Chicken Kabobs: Hand-rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After all, she’s come all the way to this point from Gujarat to London to Marin County to full-time restaurant in San Francisco. She defeated the odds and has earned the right to cook what she wants to cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129737\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new.jpg\" alt=\"Heena Patel rolls dough for flatbread in back kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129737\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Heena Patel rolls dough for flatbread in back kitchen. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She got a home-science degree from Mumbai University and was given the common “a or b” decision from her father — continue studying and get a master’s degree, or go to London and find a man to marry. She elected for the latter and amidst all the boys who lined up for her, she found her husband, Paresh, after two weeks. When she was 25-years old and Paresh was 30, the couple and their then three-year old daughter moved from London to Marin County on a business visa. The two ran an adjacent liquor store and flower shop in Terra Linda (by San Rafael) for 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129738\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled Paneer Kabobs: Hand rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129738\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grilled Paneer Kabobs: Hand rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It wasn’t easy upon arriving in California for Heena, being someone who looks differently, speaks differently and didn’t know a word of English at the time. In 1992, Heena would struggle on the phone at the shops, answering calls and unable to communicate clearly, despite her best efforts. On the other end of the line, one particularly disrespectful man screamed at her for her lack of English and to this day gets her worked up emotionally. It was not a welcoming way for her to step into a supposedly welcoming country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sitting down with La Cocina alums in the past few weeks, we’ve found a theme in how there was a mutual connection that led the chef/entrepreneur to the program. That happened in 2013 for Heena where she self-admittedly had “zero idea of the food business” but “checked off all the boxes” for what La Cocina looks for. Heena really wanted to open a concept for serving her style of traditional and not-so-traditional Gujarati cuisine, and the program helped her craft a 90-page business plan…for the truck. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129742\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new.jpg\" alt=\"Besharam Lunch Menu.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129742\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Besharam Lunch Menu. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Have you seen that truck around San Francisco? Nope, we didn’t think so, because it never ended up happening. Instead, she started “Rasoi,” a Ferry Building farmers' market vendor concept. Heena also held pop-ups at the likes of Jardinière and State Bird Provisions. At the latter, she served a dessert to chef and co-owner Stuart Brioza, who was beyond thrilled with his first taste, seemingly having a life-altering epiphany. Talk about the ultimate compliment and confidence booster for a shy, upstart cook like Heena.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129746\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new.jpg\" alt=\"A tray of Besharam desserts.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129746\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A tray of Besharam desserts. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then it all happened so fast with the restaurateur Daniel Patterson after La Cocina connected the two and she was invited to have lunch with him at his restaurant, Alta, in the Minnesota Street Project. Yes, that Daniel Patterson, the chef known for high-end cooking at San Francisco fine dining stalwarts like the now-closed Elisabeth Daniel and Coi. Heena was skeptical and even admitted to us, “I googled him — who is Daniel Patterson?” Recently, Patterson has become instrumental in championing socioeconomic diversity by working with Restaurants Opportunities Center United and helping aspiring restaurateurs, like Heena, defeat the odds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the lunch, Patterson offered the Alta space to Heena. It swept her off her feet. She could cook and do what she does so well, and be helped in what she’s less experienced with. Now, two months since opening, Heena has even more respect for Patterson than before she went into business with him. Simply put — the system of passionate chef, La Cocina education and renowned chef mentor/business system is working.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/qITc3R1akO0\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To date, the biggest question from diners for Heena has been, “Where is the chicken tikka masala?”, pigeon-holing the most well-known Indian dish to Americans that isn’t even a traditional Indian dish. (Answer: not at this restaurant). Heena has also been shocked by how savvy her customers are, estimating about 90% have an open mind (and don’t care about the lack of tikka masala) and love her adorably different, somewhat quirky concept. She also is hugely surprised by how many Indian customers just keep coming and coming, often with big groups of non-Indian colleagues and friends. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, it has been quite the journey from Gujarat to the Dogpatch for Heena and Paresh. Their 29-year old daughter is studying for the bar exam and their 21-year old son is an aspiring journalist, studying at Vassar College in New York. Everyone chips in to help at Besharam, whether on the floor or from afar. Both kids help their mom with something that is definitely not one of her biggest strengths: social media. Meanwhile, at the restaurant, Paresh helps with the front-of-house and also assists on the wine and newly-launched cocktail program with Alta Group Beverage Director, Aaron Paul. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paresh should also get lots of credit for allowing San Francisco to have the privilege of knowing what he’s known for decades — how talented a chef Heena is. Once, when she was doubting if a restaurant would ever happen, he assured her that “what you serve is basic but people are hungry for it.” He was very correct, though bleu cheese naan is definitely not basic. San Francisco was starving for the open-minded style of cooking that Heena brings to the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129728\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new.jpg\" alt=\"Besharam signage on the front door.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129728\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Besharam signage on the front door. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.huaracheloco.com/\">El Huarache Loco\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/El+Huarache+Loco/@37.9474025,-122.5116057,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80859a43f733d57f:0xdf3b9d5506983993!8m2!3d37.9473983!4d-122.5094116\">1803 Larkspur Landing Circle, Larkspur\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129756\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new.jpg\" alt=\"Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at El Huarache Loco.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129756\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at El Huarache Loco. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>No, there are no burritos on the menu at \u003cstrong>Veronica Salazar’s\u003c/strong> restaurant inside Larkspur’s tony Marin Country Mart. Of course, that’s one of the first things a good percentage of her diners notice on an initial visit and ask about. For Salazar, it’s pretty simple why there are no burritos to be found at El Huarache Loco — burritos aren’t really something people eat in Mexico. “Find them at Walmart” is her advice if you want a burrito in Mexico City because they serve them in the frozen food aisle (though she can’t vouch for if they’re delicious at all). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129759\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new.jpg\" alt=\"Huarache Con Costillo\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129759\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Huarache Con Costillo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>However, diners will find a thrilling roster of Mexico City street food and home cooking staples at El Huarache Loco, beginning with the namesake huaraches. They are thin-pressed, oval-shaped masa “tortillas” that are often thought of as “sandal-shaped.” If you’re still having trouble, just picture a flattened tamale, minus the banana leaf and with the fillings on top of the masa, and you’re kind of on the right track. The huarache is a platform for all kinds of toppings from ham, bacon and chorizo to tender rib meat (“costilla”) to the must-try nopales salad (cactus!). There is a thin layer of black bean paste between the tortilla and the toppings, then crowning garnishes of a rustic-zesty red salsa, cilantro, onions, cheese and the all-important squiggles of cool crema. Yes, it’s all kind of crazy but really it’s just downright delicious. (The “loco” in the name, by the way, is because it’s a fun word and El Huarache Loco is a common restaurant name in Mexico.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trust us, you’ll be wishing every burrito place served huaraches after your first one from Salazar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129852\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new.jpg\" alt=\"Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at work in the open kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129852\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at work in the open kitchen. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She has been cooking them each Saturday morning at the Alemany Farmers' Market (the “People’s Market”) since 2006, just a year after joining the La Cocina program. Since coming to the Bay Area in 1995 with her husband, she had been cooking food at home for friends, family and pretty much anyone who wanted a taste of the CDMX (Ciudad de Mexico, the name Mexico City is often referred to in Mexico). Salazar first heard about a kitchen for low-income women from a news story on Univision and was soon in touch with La Cocina thanks to one of her customers. Salazar also was involved with the now-shuttered Women’s Initiative for Self Employment (also known as ALAS), who helped her hatch the all-important business plan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129765\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new.jpg\" alt=\"Quesadilla Chilanga with Huitlacoche\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129765\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Quesadilla Chilanga with Huitlacoche \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fast-forward to 2012 and Salazar’s popularity at Alemany made her a favorite of critics and diners alike (count this writer as one who visited in the early days and became an enormous fan). A developer in Marin County was looking for a chef to run a Mexican restaurant in their new rustic, high-end shopping complex by the Larkspur Ferry Terminal. Salazar noted to us recently that it was a pretty “ugly, lonely looking place” at first. But, she believed in it. The commute wouldn’t be so bad (after all, from her home in San Francisco, it takes just as long to get to La Cocina as it does to drive to Larkspur) and the crowds would come just like at Alemany.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129762\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fish taco\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129762\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fish taco \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The risk clearly worked as El Huarache Loco became the first restaurant opened by a La Cocina alum. Salazar pays homage to her La Cocina roots with a 2011 picture of her in the incubator’s kitchen with three fellow chefs, all of whom have successful full-time concepts today. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129767\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new.jpg\" alt=\"Inside El Huarache Loco with 2011 photo of her in La Cocina incubator’s kitchen on the wall.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129767\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside El Huarache Loco with 2011 photo of her in La Cocina incubator’s kitchen on the wall. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Around the restaurant, she also has many distinct nods to her Mexico City home and her family — a family that has run a restaurant, Caldos Rivera, for more than 60 years in the heart of the chaotic city. Salazar told us that as a woman in Mexico, “To live, you have to learn how to cook.” These dishes have been with her forever. Beyond huaraches, the menu in Larkspur includes “antojitos” (CDMX specials and appetizers), like a delicate, curled huitlacoche-filled (dark black corn fungus) quesadilla that is nothing like the greasy, cheesy, flat Tex-Mex quesadillas you’ve surely tried. There are other unfamiliar names to most Bay Area diners like pambazos, sopes, gorditas and tostadas. Breakfast features huevos rancheros and chilaquiles. There are also more familiar tacos in myriad formats and fillings, along with daily specials and enchiladas that are again not recognizable to most diners in the audience. Salazar honors her mother in the chop-like house “Doña Luz” salad with a smorgasbord of great ingredients because her mother was so great at tying together surplus ingredients into a salad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129760\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ensalada Doña Luz\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129760\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ensalada Doña Luz \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salazar doesn’t cut any corners. She makes her own masa for the tortillas; fantastic and not-too-sweet agua frescas are housemade; and the guacamole is prepared from scratch, along with a half-dozen types of salsa. She has had to adapt a bit for the Marin audience. Remember, while there are lots of adventurous diners ready to eat anything, anywhere — there are also plenty of soccer moms and rushed ferry commuters stopping by. So, tripe-filled menudo quickly left the menu. There is no tongue amongst the taco meats. There is, however, alphabet soup on the kid’s menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129764\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new.jpg\" alt=\"Agua frescas are housemade: jimica (hibiscus), pineapple and watermelon.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129764\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Agua frescas are housemade: jimica (hibiscus), pineapple and watermelon. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salazar has found a home in a place that is about as far a 180-degree spin from hectic Mexico City as you can get. Inside El Huacache Loco, there are giant handmade rancho-style chairs and lots of the customary singing and dancing skeletons from Dia de los Muertos celebrations that you might find in her home city. Then walk outside and you’ll see a pond with koi and turtles, lots of relaxed locals who just left yoga class, and you’ll certainly notice how the exterior of El Huarache Loco is the same as everything else in the charming shopping area (freshly painted, chic farmhouse-looking). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new.jpg\" alt=\"El Huarache Loco outside eating area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129766\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">El Huarache Loco outside eating area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In bucolic Marin, Salazar is still trying to defeat the naysayers who claim that this isn’t “real Mexican food.” Quite simply, anyone can think what they want to think, but we know that they’re wrong. Salazar definitely knows that they’re wrong because she is one of the Bay Area’s great ambassadors of the cuisine from one of the world’s grandest and most culturally enriching cities. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.minniebellssoul.com/\">Minnie Bell’s Soul Food Movement\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Public+Market/@37.8412911,-122.2938373,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x68a7c0c0b72fc684!8m2!3d37.8412911!4d-122.2938373\">5959 Shellmound St., Emeryville\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129780\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fernay McPherson, the Chef-Owner of Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129780\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fernay McPherson, the Chef-Owner of Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Excuse me! I hate to interrupt, but may I just say that she makes THE best fried chicken I have ever had.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few seconds later, both the glowing customer and Fernay McPherson, the Chef-Owner of Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement, lightheartedly assure this food writer that this moment wasn’t staged for our interview. He genuinely feels that this crispy, succulent, rosemary-flecked plate of fried chicken was the greatest that he had ever encountered, even surpassing his longtime prior gold standard — of course, his own recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129784\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Millie Bell's Rosemary Fried Chicken and Cornbread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129784\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Millie Bell's Rosemary Fried Chicken and Cornbread. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As an hour goes by with McPherson, nobody else stops the interview other than a coworker asking a fryer question or her 13-year old son, Eric, stopping by because his summer job right now is working for his mom’s Emeryville Public Market kiosk four-days-a-week (Eric’s mom informs us that his favorite part of the job is counting the hours he’s worked and charging those hours). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129797\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fernay McPherson, fellow employee and Fernay's son Eric (R) working at the Minnie Bell's kiosk.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129797\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fernay McPherson, fellow employee and Fernay's son Eric (R) working at the Minnie Bell's kiosk. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But, once McPherson is back at her post in the tiny Minnie Bell’s space, roving between the cash register, the two fryers, the refrigerator full of Kool-Aid (a LOT of freshly-mixed, not exactly all-natural Kool-Aid), and the back’s prep areas, she’s receiving constant praise from happy customers of all ages and backgrounds. Maybe it’s the fact that the kiosk is in an isolated corner of a Public Market with constant construction? Maybe it’s McPherson’s ever-present upbeat charm? Maybe it’s because they’re all drinking the Minnie Bell’s Kool-Aid? Maybe…it’s the rosemary?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129793\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new.jpg\" alt=\"A sprig of fried rosemary accompanies the Rosemary Fried Chicken.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129793\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sprig of fried rosemary accompanies the Rosemary Fried Chicken. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Yes, the rosemary fried chicken. It’s everything that a legendary fried chicken should be with a crunchy, ready-to-shatter crust that is gleefully free of grease, and meat that is as juicy as a ripe summer peach, whether you’re munching on drumstick, wing, breast or thigh. Rosemary has been the recipe’s staple since her early adult cooking days when she had rosemary on hand and sampled with it. Her recipe has no seasoning nor any buttermilk or a second dredging of batter. McPherson’s key move is to give the chicken a rosemary-hot sauce marinade for 24 hours or more. Then she fries the chicken and rosemary in clean oil (the kiosk closes between lunch and dinner for a labor-intensive oil switch-out). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129801\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new.jpg\" alt=\"The kiosk closes between lunch and dinner for a labor-intensive oil switch-out.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129801\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The kiosk closes between lunch and dinner for a labor-intensive oil switch-out. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With all of this chicken talk, Minnie Bell’s is by no means a one-hit wonder. The menu sticks to roughly a half-dozen supporting cast members, all of whom are vegetarian (no bacon, no lard). Well, the three-cheese mac & cheese with Parmesan, fontina and cheddar isn’t exactly a light selection, nor is the sweeter, fluffier-style of cornbread that McPherson makes with lots of brown butter. However, the smoky vegan red rice and beans and the red chili-accented braised greens are miles ahead of their peers in flavor complexity and a clean brightness that is never associated with them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new.jpg\" alt=\"Three-cheese Mac & Cheese with Parmesan.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129782\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Three-cheese Mac & Cheese with Parmesan. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129804\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new.jpg\" alt=\"Braised Greens.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129804\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Braised Greens. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new.jpg\" alt=\"Red Beans & Rice Salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Red Beans & Rice Salad. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>McPherson’s family is originally from New Mexico and Texas, and came to California as part of the mid-century Great Migration, a period when the Fillmore was booming as the “Harlem of the West.” A generation later, McPherson has called the Fillmore “home” for all but a couple years when she attended cooking school in Sacramento. Sadly, she has witnessed that neighborhood boom steadily fade. She’s hoping that one day Minnie Bell’s can play a part in bringing back that vibrant heyday for the corridor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129789\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new.jpg\" alt=\"McPherson has called the Fillmore “home” and that is reflected on the back of Minnie Bell's T-shirts which say "EST. IN FILLMOE."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129789\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">McPherson has called the Fillmore “home” and that is reflected on the back of Minnie Bell's T-shirts which say \"EST. IN FILLMOE.\" \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At first, her role in the kitchen for the family was to grate cheese for mac ‘n’ cheese, an activity that she admittedly “dreaded.” The first recipe she had to master was a Betty Crocker Dinette Cake. She gradually learned how to cook her family’s soul food recipes from her late grandmother Lillie Bell and her great aunt Minnie (now 85 years old). Their impact on her personal and professional life years later are why both are the namesakes of Minnie Bell’s and, frankly, why she was compelled to become a chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129781\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fernay McPherson's late grandmother Lillie Bell (R) and her great aunt Minnie (now 85 years old)\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129781\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fernay McPherson's late grandmother Lillie Bell (R) and her great aunt Minnie (now 85 years old) \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The concept launched as a mobile catering company, hence the Soul “Movement.” She joined La Cocina in 2011 and participated in the Fillmore Mobile Food Vendor and Artisan Marketplace program, a small business course that La Cocina taught with Urban Solutions, a nonprofit economic development organization. “Small businesses are what make the world go around,” McPherson tells us. Sadly, seven years later, the city is still “sleeping on the fact that we’re small businesses.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During her time with La Cocina, Minnie Bell’s became increasingly in demand for catering and pop-ups, with the most notable of the latter being a substantial run at Wing Wings in the Lower Haight. Still, the permanent restaurant just wouldn’t come, but luckily a yearlong lease in the Emeryville Public Market emerged after fellow La Cocina alum Nyum Bai left.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129812\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new.jpg\" alt=\""Nourish The Public + Nourish Yourself" signage at The Emeryville Public Market next to Minnie Bell's kiosk.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129812\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Nourish The Public + Nourish Yourself\" signage at The Emeryville Public Market next to Minnie Bell's kiosk. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Fillmore is having huge dining growth, started by the blockbuster State Bird Provisions, and recently followed by the likes of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery\u003c/a>, Wise Sons and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/128414/merchant-roots-daytime-grocer-and-imaginative-nighttime-tasting-menu-table-arrives-on-fillmore\">Merchant Roots\u003c/a>. All are delicious and small (ish) businesses — and all are not black-owned. For McPherson, the scene on Fillmore is “bittersweet” because these are very worthy and considerate additions to the neighborhood, but “it’s a mystery” to her and “an eyesore for the community” how there are still so many prominently vacant storefronts in the corridor. Real estate developers keep holding out for someone to pay bigger and bigger bucks. It’s about the money. It’s all about the money. In the meantime, the potentially vibrant culture and significant foot traffic is kept away, other than the nightly State Bird Provisions line.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soon, McPherson will get her permanent restaurant because she is an immensely gifted chef with the fervently devoted following that she deserves like that raving diner who paused our interview. Those fans will follow Minnie Bell’s wherever its movement goes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129792\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new.jpg\" alt=\"Signage for Minnie Bell's Soul Movement.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129792\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Signage for Minnie Bell's Soul Movement. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nyumbai.com/\">Nyum Bai\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Nyum+Bai/@37.7763222,-122.224679,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0xc85f72f420fd5355?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjX94G4g63cAhVD7VQKHe60B8UQ_BIItAEwDQ\">3340 E 12th St., Oakland Suite 11\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taste the steamed fish soufflé called “amok” and dip some exquisitely trimmed cucumbers into “prahok,” a homey and spicy ground pork dip, and you’ll simultaneously experience profound beauty and pain through a cuisine’s powerful story. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new.jpg\" alt=\"Prahok Ktiss\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129834\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prahok Ktiss \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is so much joy in Cambodian cooking, whether starting with a banana blossom, cabbage and sweet basil “ngoum banana salad” or digging into the slightly sweet, profoundly earthy and balanced “kuy teav Phnom Penh” noodles in a seven-hour pork broth that tastes much more like a complex craft cocktail at Trick Dog than the rugged tonkotsu ramen broth you would be expecting. Along with the food, there is tremendous beauty in the stunning natural setting and rich culture of Cambodia, one that is not very well known to the Bay Area audience. As Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Oakland’s five-month old restaurant, Nyum Bai, unfortunately points out — everyone seems to know about Angkor Wat’s temples and the genocide, and that’s about it for Cambodia. She’s trying to change that one guest at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129825\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai making Ngoum Banana Salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129825\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai making Ngoum Banana Salad. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129841\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad.jpg\" alt=\"Nite Yun in Nyum Bai kitchen carrying finished Ngoum Banana Salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1077\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129841\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-800x449.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-768x431.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-1020x572.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-1200x673.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-1180x662.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-960x539.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-375x210.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-520x292.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite Yun in Nyum Bai kitchen carrying finished Ngoum Banana Salad. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129829\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ngoum Banana Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129829\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ngoum Banana Salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Nite’s earliest memories from her youth are eating rice with her hands on the floor of her family’s apartment in Stockton while mid-century Khmer rock and roll music played in the background. That was a common portrait of her life growing up in the Central Valley town, where she constantly grappled with the question of identity that countless immigrants in this country think about. Her life was nothing similar to her friends in high school — they probably didn’t even know where Cambodia was and definitely didn’t eat rice with their hands. On the flip side, she wasn’t really part of the Americana culture of eating hamburgers and watching TV shows all the time. Nite just focused on school and family, spending most of her time at home with her parents and two brothers (she’s the middle child). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129820\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kuy Teav Phnom Penh\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129820\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kuy Teav Phnom Penh \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129821\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kuy Teav Phnom Penh with noodles displayed.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129821\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kuy Teav Phnom Penh with noodles displayed. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She doesn’t have memories of before Stockton. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nite’s parents dodged land mines, worked in labor camps and managed to flee the horrific genocide during the Khmer Rouge’s reign of terror in Cambodia during the late 1970s. Her parents spent five years in a refugee camp in Thailand where Nite was born. The family was sponsored by a church group in Texas and immigrated to the U.S. before quickly relocating to Stockton because of the large Cambodian expat community there. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nite didn’t fully understand the scope of the genocide or why her parents didn’t open up much about their past until well into her youth. She acknowledges now that they struggled with a form of PTSD and that is a reason that she learned very little about her mysterious homeland of Cambodia until she grew older.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trips back to Cambodia in her early adult years helped Nite better understand her heritage and planted the idea of Nyum Bai in her mind. At first, she spent four years at SF State in the nursing program but knew that wasn’t for her, telling us, “How could I be a nurse if I didn’t care? It was all compounded. Everything that was in the hospital I was so unhappy about, like learning about it was one thing, but actually working in the hospital, wearing scrubs [and] the lighting, the smells and everything, it was like, ‘Get me out of here!’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was on her third trip back to Cambodia, while eating a bowl of soup in a market, that she realized she should start her own food business. Through Nyum Bai, Nite says, she could open up her country by “sharing Cambodia [and] teaching people about Cambodia through the cuisine, but also a way for people to reunite with their roots.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129848\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Take Away Window at Nyum Bai.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129848\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Take Away Window at Nyum Bai. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She had no idea how this was going to actually be a business. She didn’t have any formal culinary training other than cooking extensively with her mom and then on her own at college when she started missing her mom’s recipes. Though she lacked the business plan, she definitely didn’t lack what she describes as “purpose.” Nite set about on her own doing recipe testing and held private dinners at her home. A visit to the 2009 La Cocina Street Food Festival convinced her to reach out to the organization but she didn’t feel ready to truly be an entrepreneur. She incorrectly doubted herself. After all, she even knew that one of her mom’s frequent sayings, “Nyum Bai,” (a Cambodian phrase for “Eat rice” or “Let’s eat!”) should be the name of this future concept. Instead of having a formal interview, Nite was asked to cater a board meeting for La Cocina and that become an informal interview — a “trick” she admits — and Nite joined in 2014. Nyum Bai found a stall in the Emeryville Public Market in early 2017 (now occupied by Minnie Bell’s) and that expansion made the entire Bay Area realize that Cambodian food should be, and thankfully now is, on the map of vital cuisines to sample and learn more about.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emeryville gave her lessons that she badly needed for achieving that grander dream — her own spot. Some of the challenges she encountered and had to get past included “learning how to be a leader, scaling up recipes, sharing my stories and opening up to strangers.” It didn’t take long for the opportunity of a permanent Oakland spot to appear. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129823\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new.jpg\" alt=\"Colorful Nyum Bai interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129823\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Colorful Nyum Bai interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The owner of the Fruitvale, Oakland burgers and craft beers spot, The Half Orange, was connected to La Cocina and informed the organization that he was going to be closing the business. Around the same time, Nite’s yearlong lease for Emeryville was winding down. It was a no-brainer match for Nyum Bai and Fruitvale (though her commute from West Oakland has gone from five minutes to fifteen minutes!). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129831\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nyum Bai interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129831\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nyum Bai interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Half Orange’s narrow space, open kitchen and charming patio area, plus Fruitvale’s diversity and constant energy just felt like Nyum Bai’s right home. The dining room has a striking pink neon and aquatic blue slatted fixture, cheery bursts of white and bright colored paints, and Khmer rock and roll albums on the walls. The outside patio is festive and bustling, feeling like it could be a roadside market with its narrow bench seating, but is also singularly “Oakland” via the neighboring market’s mariachi music and piñatas. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129815\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nyum Bai dinner and lunch menus.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129815\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nyum Bai dinner and lunch menus. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The extensive dinner menu has three sections: starters like grilled beef skewers with a honey and “kroeung” (a Cambodian spice paste) dipping sauce, or taro, pork and glass noodle-filled crispy rolls; a trio of noodles dishes under their own heading; and “With Rice” dishes ranging from crispy catfish topped with green mango salad to the southern Khmer sweet and peppery pork belly stew called “koh.” Weekday lunch is counter-service and an abbreviated menu of noodles, rice plates, snacks and some intriguing salad and sandwich creations (new fried chicken sandwich alert!). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129849\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nyum Bai outdoor eating space.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129849\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nyum Bai outdoor eating space. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fruitvale has been unpredictable in the early going for business because foot traffic can be a challenge (it’s a block removed from the BART station) and there isn’t the natural pull of a built-in residential area. Nite has really enjoyed seeing the mix of travelers going to Cambodia or those who recently visited, the countless adventurous Bay Area diners always on the lookout for learning about global cuisines, and how the region’s Cambodian population has certainly embraced her concept. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nyum Bai is a deeply personal restaurant that reaches back to before Nite was born. You can feel that pain from her country’s past but the joy in the country’s resilience since such unspeakable tragedy. She wanted to provide “a space for the old and the new generation of Cambodians to come together and start healing” and has accomplished that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129830\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai in Oakland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129830\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“If you ever feel like giving up,” Nite says, “just remind yourself why you started the business in the first place.” Words can’t describe what her parents and her homeland went through. At least there is the warmth and beauty of food to connect generations and comfort each other.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://reemscalifornia.com/\">Reem’s\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Reem's+California/@37.7754485,-122.2247451,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x850f93f103291775!8m2!3d37.7754485!4d-122.2247451\">3301 E 12th St #133, Oakland\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://dyafaoakland.com/\">Dyafa\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Dyafa/@37.7936067,-122.2743699,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xe8e7c53f0e32d9ab!8m2!3d37.7936067!4d-122.2743699\">44 Webster St., Oakland\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129869\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new.jpg\" alt=\"#FEELTHEWARMTH at Reem's. Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner wearing her restaurant's t-shirt.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129869\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">#FEELTHEWARMTH at Reem's. Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner wearing her restaurant's t-shirt. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Oakland doesn’t have a Tony Bennett-style flowery ballad nor does it boast iconic and widely photographed pyramids, cable cars and curvy, steep, garden-decorated streets. That’s not Oakland. You don’t leave your heart in The Town; you give your heart to it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129888\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner of Reem’s.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129888\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner of Reem’s.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That has been the case for Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner of Reem’s in Fruitvale and Chef-Partner with Dyafa in Jack London Square, since she moved to Oakland. Growing up in the small Arab community just outside Boston and attending nearby Tufts University, Massachusetts never felt like a place meant for her, for reasons well beyond the predictably harsh winters. Oakland finally felt like “home” with its diversity, its energy and its sense of community. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129866\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new.jpg\" alt=\"Welcome sign at Reem's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129866\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Welcome sign at Reem's. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Reem’s mother is Palestinian and her father is Syrian. The two met after both relocated to Beirut before coming to the United States together. All through her youth, Reem felt like a “stranger in a strange land,” trying to truly figure out her identity. She definitely didn’t think that identity was going to be as a chef — she actually wanted to be an actress and then shifted towards social justice and “trying to change the world” while at Tufts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Reem moved to the Bay Area in 2005 because she “was over Boston” and could crash on her uncle’s couch in Daly City, she ended up working at non-profits and as a community organizer in Oakland for a range of causes and issues from airport labor to urban development policies. It was on a trip in 2010 (just before the Arab Spring) to Lebanon and Syria when the idea for Reem’s was largely created after she absolutely adored the many street corner bakeries in Beirut and Damascus. She was struck not just by how delicious the pastries were, but also how these omnipresent bakeries were sort of like sanctuaries in a city full of constant turmoil — a situation not unlike Oakland, except her new home didn’t have those much-needed communal gathering spots. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129868\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new.jpg\" alt=\"What's a Man'oushe?\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129868\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">What's a Man'oushe? \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129876\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new.jpg\" alt=\"Za'atar Man'oushe.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129876\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Za'atar Man'oushe. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, Reem signed up for baking and pastry classes at Laney College in Oakland, but left after six months to join the well-known, worker-owned Arizmendi Bakery and Pizzeria in Emeryville. After those formative days, there was no doubt where Reem’s career was heading. She was connected to La Cocina in 2014 through the Women’s Initiative Center and initially wanted to have a wood-fired oven attached to a truck à la \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/37826/jon-darskys-del-popolo-pizza-of-the-people\">Del Popolo\u003c/a> to cook her signature item, mana’eesh (puffy pita-like flatbreads). However, she points out that “out of practicality and learning how to run a food business, that concept changed.” Plus, her mom (incorrectly) had doubts about whether Americans would even like mana’eesh. The Reem’s concept pop-ups began first at the Mission Community Market and shortly thereafter she was a mega-hit at several farmers' markets, including the Ferry Building. Her production for the markets and catering was bursting at the seams of La Cocina. She essentially had to go. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129880\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese Man'Oushe with added Veg Mix and Farm Fresh Egg.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese Man'Oushe with added Veg Mix and Farm Fresh Egg. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With fortuitous timing, Reem was connected to a former Chinese fast food restaurant space in busy Fruitvale Village as her production was surging. It was the perfect spot geographically and physically for Reem’s brick-and-mortar debut, complete with plenty of baking and mana'eesh oven space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129883\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil's husband, J behind the front counter at Reem's. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129883\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem's husband, J behind the front counter sporting a shirt that says \"Freedom to STAY, Freedom to MOVE, Freedom to RETURN.\" \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129884\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem's entryway, mural, display case, open kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129884\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem's entryway, mural, display case, open kitchen. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129870\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new.jpg\" alt=\"The dining area at Reem's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129870\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The dining area at Reem's. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bakery/café has become a fixture for a diverse range of customers, heavy on families in the daytime and commuters in the evening. They come together to enjoy Reem’s “unapologetically Arab street food” with “California love.” That means saj wraps (flatbreads cooked on a dome-shaped griddle) and oven-baked mana’eesh topped with anything from za’atar made in Jordan to avocado to falafel to sujuk (a beef sausage) to soft-yolk farm fresh eggs. Guests will also find various baked goods, fattoush, spreads, and handheld “mu’ajinaat” pastries in flavors like lamb, pomegranate and pine nut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129877\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new.jpg\" alt=\"Falafel Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129877\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Falafel Salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129873\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new.jpg\" alt=\"The baking area at Reem's is visible from outside and people can watch baking in action.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129873\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The baking area at Reem's is visible from outside and people can watch baking in action. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129875\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new.jpg\" alt=\"Making Mana'eesh in the open kitchen area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129875\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Making Mana'eesh in the open kitchen area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bakery took years to plan. The second restaurant took weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reem and the chef-restaurateur Daniel Patterson have both long been involved with \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/\">Restaurants Opportunities Center United\u003c/a>, an organization devoted to improving working conditions, wages and diversity in restaurant labor. A few months ago, Patterson informed Reem that his Jack London Square restaurant Haven was going to pivot concepts. She pitched to Patterson the idea of Dyafa, a hipper, more ambitious take on Arab cuisine concept named for “hospitality.” Quickly, Dyafa came to fruition and opened in April 2018, just a month after her son Zain was born. Talk about a busy spring and current summer for Reem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129900\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new.jpg\" alt=\"Dyafa dining area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129900\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dyafa dining area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129902\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new.jpg\" alt=\"Open kitchen at Dyafa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129902\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Open kitchen at Dyafa. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dyafa is very much “of the moment,” part of a nationwide trend of chic and eclectic Middle Eastern fine dining restaurants. At lunch and dinner, diners at Dyafa usually start with an order of those same mezze spreads as at Reem’s, highlighted by a smoky baba ghanoush that is so smoky that you’d swear it has an ounce of mezcal in it. Lunch tends to be more simpler fare, led by saj wraps that might be the “shish tawook” filled with spicy chicken kebab or turmeric-spiced cauliflower, eggplant and feta cheese in the “Steph Curry.” The latter is obviously an Oakland must-order for the name alone. Dinner sports a much more extensive selection of cold mezze and hot mezze, plus large plates like sumac-spiced chicken confit and braised lamb shank with garlic yogurt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129903\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new.jpg\" alt=\"Mezze Sampler at Dyafa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129903\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mezze Sampler at Dyafa. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129904\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new.jpg\" alt=\"Steph Curry saj: turmeric-spiced cauliflower, eggplant, feta, roasted garlic.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129904\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dyafa's Steph Curry saj: turmeric-spiced cauliflower, eggplant, feta, roasted garlic. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The two restaurants reside in two complete opposite worlds view-wise. Dyafa looks at the Oakland Estuary’s leisurely boats and tourist scene, while Reem’s 40-seat dining room and vast patio gazes at the frenetic area around Fruitvale BART. Only Dyafa, though, has a popular bar with excellent Arab-leaning cocktails from Alta Group Beverage Director Aaron Paul that seem to be popular even at noon on a weekday, with witty names to boot like To Yaffa With Love (vodka, cara cara orange, curaçao, Grand Poppy liqueur). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129908\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new.jpg\" alt=\"View of outdoor patio and Oakland Estuary in Jack London Square.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129908\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">View of outdoor patio and Oakland Estuary in Jack London Square. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129901\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new.jpg\" alt=\"Bar at Dyafa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129901\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bar at Dyafa. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129905\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new.jpg\" alt=\"Dyafa's nature design with tree roots dangling from exposed rafters.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129905\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dyafa's nature design with tree roots dangling from exposed rafters. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dyafa also sports a sleek Middle East-meets-California nature design with tree roots dangling from exposed rafters and mosaic tiles on the floor. Reem’s is definitely not trying to be anything hip or lounge-like. Instead, the space is homey and charming as both a meal-gathering place and weekday freelance workforce office. It boasts bright colors (think light green, pink, yellow); Arabic script on the walls including the names of Kickstarter donors; a bakery case, open kitchen and ordering counter; and a mural of Rasmea Odeh and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shooting_of_Oscar_Grant\">Oscar Grant\u003c/a> (the unarmed black man killed at Fruitvale BART in 2009).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129863\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil stands by the mural of Rasmea Odeh and Oscar Grant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129863\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem Assil stands by the mural of Rasmea Odeh and Oscar Grant. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ah, the mural. Much has been written about the controversy of the mural and Eater SF’s Andrew Dalton has a thorough breakdown of the situation last summer when “J., the Jewish News of California,” featured an op-ed denouncing the artwork’s meaning and a \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2017/6/23/15820576/reems-arab-bakery-rasema-odeh-oakland-controversy\">large controversy\u003c/a> emerged. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129874\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1858px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new.jpg\" alt=\"Statement about the mural.\" width=\"1858\" height=\"1239\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129874\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new.jpg 1858w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1858px) 100vw, 1858px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Statement about the mural. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the aftermath, there were death threats, a cascade of threatening Yelp reviews (mostly from non-diners), protesters, a need for Oakland police to be stationed outside, and even a star turn in, of all places, \u003ca href=\"https://www.breitbart.com/california/2017/06/20/oakland-bakery-pays-homage-to-convicted-soon-to-be-deported-palestinian-terrorist-rasmea-odeh/\">Breitbart\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That all was definitely not in the business plan for a place that encourages to \u003cstrong>“#Feelthewarmth”\u003c/strong> and has a vision to “build strong, resilient community” in the power of food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The mural is important to Reem because she sees Odeh, a Palestinian, as a “symbol of unfairness in immigration.” Odeh was convicted in 1969 of being involved in a supermarket bombing that killed two Israeli students in Jerusalem. After a decade in jail, she was freed in a prisoner exchange with the Palestinians and immigrated to the U.S. in the 1990s. She was instrumental in organizing the massive Women’s Marches of January 2017, but, because officials claimed that her conviction from 1969 was never reported to U.S. officials, Odeh was deported back to her homeland of Jordan last fall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reem continually seeks the healthy discussion that the topic badly needs, telling us “a lot of it wasn’t even about the mural. It was the fact that I was Palestinian and Arab.” She admits, “Naturally, that could’ve broken me down and forced me to be quiet, which, at the beginning I was afraid and didn’t know how to maneuver.” However, “the community came through ten times as much than the other side, like ‘we have your back.’ It created an opportunity for me to educate folks about who Rasmea is and why she’s important. And who Oscar Grant is and why the symbol of him on my wall is important.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Race, religion, police actions, the question of Israel and Palestine, immigration — these are of course complex and touchy subjects, no doubt egged on by the current administration as Reem is quick to point out. Regardless of mural opinions, we all can agree that disrespectful Yelp reviews don’t help anything and that Reem’s model of worker fairness and community togetherness is a model that can — and should — defeat religious and political barriers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At La Cocina, Reem realized that, yes, she wanted a small bakery but also be to big picture-minded. Remember “saving the world” at Tufts? She’s working at it. Reem and her peers are already making progress right at home in Fruitvale with a food and drink “ecosystem” between the bakery and neighbors \u003ca href=\"http://www.aleindustries.com/\">Ale Industries\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.redbaycoffee.com/\">Red Bay Coffee\u003c/a> (you can get both at Reem’s). She is hoping to make her own za’atar blend by hiring a group of refugees in the Bay Area to do the work. Who knows what else is on the horizon?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“So much of my restaurants are an homage to Oakland,” Reem acknowledges. Whether you’re dining at Reem’s restaurants in Fruitvale or Jack London Square, you know that you’re at a place trying to lift up its community and you’re very much in Oakland. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"A tour through the menus and remarkable stories of six Bay Area restaurants from five La Cocina kitchen incubator graduates.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1532972453,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":86,"wordCount":7842},"headData":{"title":"Five La Cocina Graduates Who Now Have Brick-and-Mortar Food Businesses | KQED","description":"A tour through the menus and remarkable stories of six Bay Area restaurants from five La Cocina kitchen incubator graduates.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"129373 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=129373","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/07/27/five-la-cocina-graduates-who-now-have-brick-and-mortar-food-businesses/","disqusTitle":"Five La Cocina Graduates Who Now Have Brick-and-Mortar Food Businesses","nprByline":"\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/trevorfelch\">Trevor Felch\u003c/a> (writer), \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/wendy-goodfriend\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a> (photos/video)","path":"/bayareabites/129373/five-la-cocina-graduates-who-now-have-brick-and-mortar-food-businesses","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When you step inside the Outer Mission complex that houses the \u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a> food business incubator kitchen and offices on a regular weekday afternoon, it’s easy to be overwhelmed by the busy chefs, the delicious smells of baked goods and roasting meats, and the constant whirl of activity in preparation for the various markets, kiosks and catering events coming up in a few hours. There are spots for eight participants in this kitchen and it definitely seems like a ninth would be impossible to squeeze in. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129706\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new.jpg\" alt=\"In the busy kitchen at La Cocina headquarters.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129706\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In the busy kitchen at La Cocina headquarters. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The space might be tight but the goals for the nonprofit are admirably enormous. Its mission is to find talented low-income food entrepreneurs, generally women of color and immigrant communities (a handful of men have been in the program, including the very successful \u003ca href=\"http://www.onigilly.com/\">Onigilly\u003c/a> concept). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/people\">Caleb Zigas\u003c/a>, La Cocina’s Executive Director who has been involved since it debuted in 2005, told us that the incubator’s 11 staff members avoid using words like “teach” or “empower.” These women have already identified a product that they excel at and a worthy price for it — they aren’t starting from scratch concept-wise, but they usually are just cooking for friends or selling from home. Zigas pointed out that, “They know everything there is to know about business. What they may not know is how to formalize that business into a marketplace that intentionally throws up barriers.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129715\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1.jpg\" alt=\"La Cocina's Executive Director Caleb Zigas in the kitchen at La Cocina headquarters.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1588\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129715\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-160x132.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-800x662.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-768x635.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-1020x844.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-1200x993.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-1180x976.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-960x794.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-240x199.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-375x310.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-520x430.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Cocina's Executive Director Caleb Zigas in the kitchen at La Cocina headquarters. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We talked with five of La Cocina’s graduates who now have brick-and-mortar restaurants or kiosks. There were universal problems acknowledged by all where they could never possibly have defeated certain barriers without La Cocina’s assistance — the surging real estate prices, not speaking English well or looking a certain way being chief among them. Even La Cocina itself faces some of these problems for its proposed food hall planned for the heart of the struggling Tenderloin in 2019. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Cocina’s program has three application deadlines a year and information orientations for interested individuals every other month. Once you’re in the program, it can take up to eight years to go through pre-incubation planning, the incubation period, finding capital and space, the exit to that space, and finally “graduation” when the business is self-sufficient. Yes, it can be as brisk as a one-year degree in theory but is much more likely to be a lengthy medical school and residency-type of time frame.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Cocina graduates have had incredible success in a wide variety of cuisines and business types. We talked with women serving Cambodian, Southern, Mexican, Arab and Gujarat (Indian) cooking. The current class includes Nepalese, Jamaican, Japanese and Salvadoran-themed businesses. Over 30 brick-and-mortars from graduates exist around the Bay Area (a handful are commissary kitchens).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those present entrepreneurs in the La Cocina kitchen are following in the esteemed footsteps of women who never thought they would ever call a restaurant their own. Here are the stories of five graduates who are now navigating the Bay Area restaurant scene with their own businesses.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.besharamrestaurant.com/\">Besharam\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Besharam/@37.754276,-122.3916646,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7f0ce31950a5:0x7718a923d0103fe2!8m2!3d37.7542718!4d-122.3894705\">1275 Minnesota St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129719\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new.jpg\" alt=\"Besharam interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129719\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Besharam interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Barely 45 diners can fit into the serene, colorful dining room of Besharam, a spunky newcomer located in the Minnesota Street Project art gallery complex, in a far industrial corner of the Dogpatch. Despite the small size and isolated location, Besharam screams with relentless character that can be as boisterous as the heat in the spiced garlic sauce served with the grilled chicken kebab and hand-rolled flatbread at lunch. \u003cstrong>Chef and co-owner Heena Patel\u003c/strong> decided on the name, “shameless” in Hindi, because she knows she’s different than everyone else — in her family, in the Bay Area, in the world — and she isn’t afraid to show that, hey, she’s running the show at a restaurant in San Francisco and never in a million years would she have expected that while growing up as the second of five daughters in the Gujarat state of India.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is bleu cheese naan with wasabi raita on the menu and a giant pop-art mural by \u003ca href=\"https://hatecopy.com/\">HateCopy’s Maria Qamar\u003c/a> next to the open kitchen with a Hindi woman drinking a cocktail. The soundtrack is bumping all lunch and dinner-long with Michael Jackson, Indian pop and seemingly everything in between. It’s definitely Heena’s restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129731\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Chef and Partner Heena Patel in front of pop-art mural by HateCopy’s Maria Qamar\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129731\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef and Partner Heena Patel in front of pop-art mural by HateCopy’s Maria Qamar. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, there are pavs (sliders, a classic street food) served with little gems and pickled shiitake mushrooms on the menu, co-existing with a grilled zucchini salad and fish moilee with coconut curry and turmeric rice. In the evening, there are shishito peppers stuffed with a tamarind and chickpea filling; edamame dumplings in a lentil broth; paratha tacos accented by a strawberry-mint chutney; and ghee-roasted pork chops. Heema puts her Gujarat-meets-world philosophy about the always hotly debated “authenticity” question very bluntly: “You can take it or leave it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129740\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled Chicken Kabobs: Hand-rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129740\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grilled Chicken Kabobs: Hand-rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After all, she’s come all the way to this point from Gujarat to London to Marin County to full-time restaurant in San Francisco. She defeated the odds and has earned the right to cook what she wants to cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129737\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new.jpg\" alt=\"Heena Patel rolls dough for flatbread in back kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129737\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Heena Patel rolls dough for flatbread in back kitchen. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She got a home-science degree from Mumbai University and was given the common “a or b” decision from her father — continue studying and get a master’s degree, or go to London and find a man to marry. She elected for the latter and amidst all the boys who lined up for her, she found her husband, Paresh, after two weeks. When she was 25-years old and Paresh was 30, the couple and their then three-year old daughter moved from London to Marin County on a business visa. The two ran an adjacent liquor store and flower shop in Terra Linda (by San Rafael) for 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129738\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled Paneer Kabobs: Hand rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129738\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grilled Paneer Kabobs: Hand rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It wasn’t easy upon arriving in California for Heena, being someone who looks differently, speaks differently and didn’t know a word of English at the time. In 1992, Heena would struggle on the phone at the shops, answering calls and unable to communicate clearly, despite her best efforts. On the other end of the line, one particularly disrespectful man screamed at her for her lack of English and to this day gets her worked up emotionally. It was not a welcoming way for her to step into a supposedly welcoming country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sitting down with La Cocina alums in the past few weeks, we’ve found a theme in how there was a mutual connection that led the chef/entrepreneur to the program. That happened in 2013 for Heena where she self-admittedly had “zero idea of the food business” but “checked off all the boxes” for what La Cocina looks for. Heena really wanted to open a concept for serving her style of traditional and not-so-traditional Gujarati cuisine, and the program helped her craft a 90-page business plan…for the truck. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129742\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new.jpg\" alt=\"Besharam Lunch Menu.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129742\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Besharam Lunch Menu. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Have you seen that truck around San Francisco? Nope, we didn’t think so, because it never ended up happening. Instead, she started “Rasoi,” a Ferry Building farmers' market vendor concept. Heena also held pop-ups at the likes of Jardinière and State Bird Provisions. At the latter, she served a dessert to chef and co-owner Stuart Brioza, who was beyond thrilled with his first taste, seemingly having a life-altering epiphany. Talk about the ultimate compliment and confidence booster for a shy, upstart cook like Heena.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129746\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new.jpg\" alt=\"A tray of Besharam desserts.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129746\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A tray of Besharam desserts. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then it all happened so fast with the restaurateur Daniel Patterson after La Cocina connected the two and she was invited to have lunch with him at his restaurant, Alta, in the Minnesota Street Project. Yes, that Daniel Patterson, the chef known for high-end cooking at San Francisco fine dining stalwarts like the now-closed Elisabeth Daniel and Coi. Heena was skeptical and even admitted to us, “I googled him — who is Daniel Patterson?” Recently, Patterson has become instrumental in championing socioeconomic diversity by working with Restaurants Opportunities Center United and helping aspiring restaurateurs, like Heena, defeat the odds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the lunch, Patterson offered the Alta space to Heena. It swept her off her feet. She could cook and do what she does so well, and be helped in what she’s less experienced with. Now, two months since opening, Heena has even more respect for Patterson than before she went into business with him. Simply put — the system of passionate chef, La Cocina education and renowned chef mentor/business system is working.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/qITc3R1akO0'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/qITc3R1akO0'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>To date, the biggest question from diners for Heena has been, “Where is the chicken tikka masala?”, pigeon-holing the most well-known Indian dish to Americans that isn’t even a traditional Indian dish. (Answer: not at this restaurant). Heena has also been shocked by how savvy her customers are, estimating about 90% have an open mind (and don’t care about the lack of tikka masala) and love her adorably different, somewhat quirky concept. She also is hugely surprised by how many Indian customers just keep coming and coming, often with big groups of non-Indian colleagues and friends. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, it has been quite the journey from Gujarat to the Dogpatch for Heena and Paresh. Their 29-year old daughter is studying for the bar exam and their 21-year old son is an aspiring journalist, studying at Vassar College in New York. Everyone chips in to help at Besharam, whether on the floor or from afar. Both kids help their mom with something that is definitely not one of her biggest strengths: social media. Meanwhile, at the restaurant, Paresh helps with the front-of-house and also assists on the wine and newly-launched cocktail program with Alta Group Beverage Director, Aaron Paul. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paresh should also get lots of credit for allowing San Francisco to have the privilege of knowing what he’s known for decades — how talented a chef Heena is. Once, when she was doubting if a restaurant would ever happen, he assured her that “what you serve is basic but people are hungry for it.” He was very correct, though bleu cheese naan is definitely not basic. San Francisco was starving for the open-minded style of cooking that Heena brings to the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129728\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new.jpg\" alt=\"Besharam signage on the front door.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129728\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Besharam signage on the front door. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.huaracheloco.com/\">El Huarache Loco\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/El+Huarache+Loco/@37.9474025,-122.5116057,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80859a43f733d57f:0xdf3b9d5506983993!8m2!3d37.9473983!4d-122.5094116\">1803 Larkspur Landing Circle, Larkspur\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129756\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new.jpg\" alt=\"Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at El Huarache Loco.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129756\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at El Huarache Loco. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>No, there are no burritos on the menu at \u003cstrong>Veronica Salazar’s\u003c/strong> restaurant inside Larkspur’s tony Marin Country Mart. Of course, that’s one of the first things a good percentage of her diners notice on an initial visit and ask about. For Salazar, it’s pretty simple why there are no burritos to be found at El Huarache Loco — burritos aren’t really something people eat in Mexico. “Find them at Walmart” is her advice if you want a burrito in Mexico City because they serve them in the frozen food aisle (though she can’t vouch for if they’re delicious at all). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129759\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new.jpg\" alt=\"Huarache Con Costillo\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129759\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Huarache Con Costillo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>However, diners will find a thrilling roster of Mexico City street food and home cooking staples at El Huarache Loco, beginning with the namesake huaraches. They are thin-pressed, oval-shaped masa “tortillas” that are often thought of as “sandal-shaped.” If you’re still having trouble, just picture a flattened tamale, minus the banana leaf and with the fillings on top of the masa, and you’re kind of on the right track. The huarache is a platform for all kinds of toppings from ham, bacon and chorizo to tender rib meat (“costilla”) to the must-try nopales salad (cactus!). There is a thin layer of black bean paste between the tortilla and the toppings, then crowning garnishes of a rustic-zesty red salsa, cilantro, onions, cheese and the all-important squiggles of cool crema. Yes, it’s all kind of crazy but really it’s just downright delicious. (The “loco” in the name, by the way, is because it’s a fun word and El Huarache Loco is a common restaurant name in Mexico.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trust us, you’ll be wishing every burrito place served huaraches after your first one from Salazar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129852\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new.jpg\" alt=\"Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at work in the open kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129852\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at work in the open kitchen. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She has been cooking them each Saturday morning at the Alemany Farmers' Market (the “People’s Market”) since 2006, just a year after joining the La Cocina program. Since coming to the Bay Area in 1995 with her husband, she had been cooking food at home for friends, family and pretty much anyone who wanted a taste of the CDMX (Ciudad de Mexico, the name Mexico City is often referred to in Mexico). Salazar first heard about a kitchen for low-income women from a news story on Univision and was soon in touch with La Cocina thanks to one of her customers. Salazar also was involved with the now-shuttered Women’s Initiative for Self Employment (also known as ALAS), who helped her hatch the all-important business plan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129765\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new.jpg\" alt=\"Quesadilla Chilanga with Huitlacoche\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129765\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Quesadilla Chilanga with Huitlacoche \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fast-forward to 2012 and Salazar’s popularity at Alemany made her a favorite of critics and diners alike (count this writer as one who visited in the early days and became an enormous fan). A developer in Marin County was looking for a chef to run a Mexican restaurant in their new rustic, high-end shopping complex by the Larkspur Ferry Terminal. Salazar noted to us recently that it was a pretty “ugly, lonely looking place” at first. But, she believed in it. The commute wouldn’t be so bad (after all, from her home in San Francisco, it takes just as long to get to La Cocina as it does to drive to Larkspur) and the crowds would come just like at Alemany.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129762\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fish taco\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129762\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fish taco \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The risk clearly worked as El Huarache Loco became the first restaurant opened by a La Cocina alum. Salazar pays homage to her La Cocina roots with a 2011 picture of her in the incubator’s kitchen with three fellow chefs, all of whom have successful full-time concepts today. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129767\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new.jpg\" alt=\"Inside El Huarache Loco with 2011 photo of her in La Cocina incubator’s kitchen on the wall.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129767\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside El Huarache Loco with 2011 photo of her in La Cocina incubator’s kitchen on the wall. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Around the restaurant, she also has many distinct nods to her Mexico City home and her family — a family that has run a restaurant, Caldos Rivera, for more than 60 years in the heart of the chaotic city. Salazar told us that as a woman in Mexico, “To live, you have to learn how to cook.” These dishes have been with her forever. Beyond huaraches, the menu in Larkspur includes “antojitos” (CDMX specials and appetizers), like a delicate, curled huitlacoche-filled (dark black corn fungus) quesadilla that is nothing like the greasy, cheesy, flat Tex-Mex quesadillas you’ve surely tried. There are other unfamiliar names to most Bay Area diners like pambazos, sopes, gorditas and tostadas. Breakfast features huevos rancheros and chilaquiles. There are also more familiar tacos in myriad formats and fillings, along with daily specials and enchiladas that are again not recognizable to most diners in the audience. Salazar honors her mother in the chop-like house “Doña Luz” salad with a smorgasbord of great ingredients because her mother was so great at tying together surplus ingredients into a salad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129760\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ensalada Doña Luz\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129760\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ensalada Doña Luz \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salazar doesn’t cut any corners. She makes her own masa for the tortillas; fantastic and not-too-sweet agua frescas are housemade; and the guacamole is prepared from scratch, along with a half-dozen types of salsa. She has had to adapt a bit for the Marin audience. Remember, while there are lots of adventurous diners ready to eat anything, anywhere — there are also plenty of soccer moms and rushed ferry commuters stopping by. So, tripe-filled menudo quickly left the menu. There is no tongue amongst the taco meats. There is, however, alphabet soup on the kid’s menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129764\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new.jpg\" alt=\"Agua frescas are housemade: jimica (hibiscus), pineapple and watermelon.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129764\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Agua frescas are housemade: jimica (hibiscus), pineapple and watermelon. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salazar has found a home in a place that is about as far a 180-degree spin from hectic Mexico City as you can get. Inside El Huacache Loco, there are giant handmade rancho-style chairs and lots of the customary singing and dancing skeletons from Dia de los Muertos celebrations that you might find in her home city. Then walk outside and you’ll see a pond with koi and turtles, lots of relaxed locals who just left yoga class, and you’ll certainly notice how the exterior of El Huarache Loco is the same as everything else in the charming shopping area (freshly painted, chic farmhouse-looking). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new.jpg\" alt=\"El Huarache Loco outside eating area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129766\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">El Huarache Loco outside eating area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In bucolic Marin, Salazar is still trying to defeat the naysayers who claim that this isn’t “real Mexican food.” Quite simply, anyone can think what they want to think, but we know that they’re wrong. Salazar definitely knows that they’re wrong because she is one of the Bay Area’s great ambassadors of the cuisine from one of the world’s grandest and most culturally enriching cities. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.minniebellssoul.com/\">Minnie Bell’s Soul Food Movement\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Public+Market/@37.8412911,-122.2938373,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x68a7c0c0b72fc684!8m2!3d37.8412911!4d-122.2938373\">5959 Shellmound St., Emeryville\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129780\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fernay McPherson, the Chef-Owner of Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129780\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fernay McPherson, the Chef-Owner of Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Excuse me! I hate to interrupt, but may I just say that she makes THE best fried chicken I have ever had.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few seconds later, both the glowing customer and Fernay McPherson, the Chef-Owner of Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement, lightheartedly assure this food writer that this moment wasn’t staged for our interview. He genuinely feels that this crispy, succulent, rosemary-flecked plate of fried chicken was the greatest that he had ever encountered, even surpassing his longtime prior gold standard — of course, his own recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129784\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Millie Bell's Rosemary Fried Chicken and Cornbread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129784\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Millie Bell's Rosemary Fried Chicken and Cornbread. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As an hour goes by with McPherson, nobody else stops the interview other than a coworker asking a fryer question or her 13-year old son, Eric, stopping by because his summer job right now is working for his mom’s Emeryville Public Market kiosk four-days-a-week (Eric’s mom informs us that his favorite part of the job is counting the hours he’s worked and charging those hours). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129797\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fernay McPherson, fellow employee and Fernay's son Eric (R) working at the Minnie Bell's kiosk.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129797\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fernay McPherson, fellow employee and Fernay's son Eric (R) working at the Minnie Bell's kiosk. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But, once McPherson is back at her post in the tiny Minnie Bell’s space, roving between the cash register, the two fryers, the refrigerator full of Kool-Aid (a LOT of freshly-mixed, not exactly all-natural Kool-Aid), and the back’s prep areas, she’s receiving constant praise from happy customers of all ages and backgrounds. Maybe it’s the fact that the kiosk is in an isolated corner of a Public Market with constant construction? Maybe it’s McPherson’s ever-present upbeat charm? Maybe it’s because they’re all drinking the Minnie Bell’s Kool-Aid? Maybe…it’s the rosemary?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129793\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new.jpg\" alt=\"A sprig of fried rosemary accompanies the Rosemary Fried Chicken.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129793\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sprig of fried rosemary accompanies the Rosemary Fried Chicken. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Yes, the rosemary fried chicken. It’s everything that a legendary fried chicken should be with a crunchy, ready-to-shatter crust that is gleefully free of grease, and meat that is as juicy as a ripe summer peach, whether you’re munching on drumstick, wing, breast or thigh. Rosemary has been the recipe’s staple since her early adult cooking days when she had rosemary on hand and sampled with it. Her recipe has no seasoning nor any buttermilk or a second dredging of batter. McPherson’s key move is to give the chicken a rosemary-hot sauce marinade for 24 hours or more. Then she fries the chicken and rosemary in clean oil (the kiosk closes between lunch and dinner for a labor-intensive oil switch-out). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129801\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new.jpg\" alt=\"The kiosk closes between lunch and dinner for a labor-intensive oil switch-out.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129801\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The kiosk closes between lunch and dinner for a labor-intensive oil switch-out. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With all of this chicken talk, Minnie Bell’s is by no means a one-hit wonder. The menu sticks to roughly a half-dozen supporting cast members, all of whom are vegetarian (no bacon, no lard). Well, the three-cheese mac & cheese with Parmesan, fontina and cheddar isn’t exactly a light selection, nor is the sweeter, fluffier-style of cornbread that McPherson makes with lots of brown butter. However, the smoky vegan red rice and beans and the red chili-accented braised greens are miles ahead of their peers in flavor complexity and a clean brightness that is never associated with them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new.jpg\" alt=\"Three-cheese Mac & Cheese with Parmesan.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129782\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Three-cheese Mac & Cheese with Parmesan. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129804\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new.jpg\" alt=\"Braised Greens.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129804\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Braised Greens. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new.jpg\" alt=\"Red Beans & Rice Salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Red Beans & Rice Salad. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>McPherson’s family is originally from New Mexico and Texas, and came to California as part of the mid-century Great Migration, a period when the Fillmore was booming as the “Harlem of the West.” A generation later, McPherson has called the Fillmore “home” for all but a couple years when she attended cooking school in Sacramento. Sadly, she has witnessed that neighborhood boom steadily fade. She’s hoping that one day Minnie Bell’s can play a part in bringing back that vibrant heyday for the corridor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129789\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new.jpg\" alt=\"McPherson has called the Fillmore “home” and that is reflected on the back of Minnie Bell's T-shirts which say "EST. IN FILLMOE."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129789\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">McPherson has called the Fillmore “home” and that is reflected on the back of Minnie Bell's T-shirts which say \"EST. IN FILLMOE.\" \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At first, her role in the kitchen for the family was to grate cheese for mac ‘n’ cheese, an activity that she admittedly “dreaded.” The first recipe she had to master was a Betty Crocker Dinette Cake. She gradually learned how to cook her family’s soul food recipes from her late grandmother Lillie Bell and her great aunt Minnie (now 85 years old). Their impact on her personal and professional life years later are why both are the namesakes of Minnie Bell’s and, frankly, why she was compelled to become a chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129781\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fernay McPherson's late grandmother Lillie Bell (R) and her great aunt Minnie (now 85 years old)\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129781\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fernay McPherson's late grandmother Lillie Bell (R) and her great aunt Minnie (now 85 years old) \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The concept launched as a mobile catering company, hence the Soul “Movement.” She joined La Cocina in 2011 and participated in the Fillmore Mobile Food Vendor and Artisan Marketplace program, a small business course that La Cocina taught with Urban Solutions, a nonprofit economic development organization. “Small businesses are what make the world go around,” McPherson tells us. Sadly, seven years later, the city is still “sleeping on the fact that we’re small businesses.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During her time with La Cocina, Minnie Bell’s became increasingly in demand for catering and pop-ups, with the most notable of the latter being a substantial run at Wing Wings in the Lower Haight. Still, the permanent restaurant just wouldn’t come, but luckily a yearlong lease in the Emeryville Public Market emerged after fellow La Cocina alum Nyum Bai left.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129812\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new.jpg\" alt=\""Nourish The Public + Nourish Yourself" signage at The Emeryville Public Market next to Minnie Bell's kiosk.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129812\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Nourish The Public + Nourish Yourself\" signage at The Emeryville Public Market next to Minnie Bell's kiosk. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Fillmore is having huge dining growth, started by the blockbuster State Bird Provisions, and recently followed by the likes of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery\u003c/a>, Wise Sons and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/128414/merchant-roots-daytime-grocer-and-imaginative-nighttime-tasting-menu-table-arrives-on-fillmore\">Merchant Roots\u003c/a>. All are delicious and small (ish) businesses — and all are not black-owned. For McPherson, the scene on Fillmore is “bittersweet” because these are very worthy and considerate additions to the neighborhood, but “it’s a mystery” to her and “an eyesore for the community” how there are still so many prominently vacant storefronts in the corridor. Real estate developers keep holding out for someone to pay bigger and bigger bucks. It’s about the money. It’s all about the money. In the meantime, the potentially vibrant culture and significant foot traffic is kept away, other than the nightly State Bird Provisions line.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soon, McPherson will get her permanent restaurant because she is an immensely gifted chef with the fervently devoted following that she deserves like that raving diner who paused our interview. Those fans will follow Minnie Bell’s wherever its movement goes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129792\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new.jpg\" alt=\"Signage for Minnie Bell's Soul Movement.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129792\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Signage for Minnie Bell's Soul Movement. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nyumbai.com/\">Nyum Bai\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Nyum+Bai/@37.7763222,-122.224679,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0xc85f72f420fd5355?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjX94G4g63cAhVD7VQKHe60B8UQ_BIItAEwDQ\">3340 E 12th St., Oakland Suite 11\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taste the steamed fish soufflé called “amok” and dip some exquisitely trimmed cucumbers into “prahok,” a homey and spicy ground pork dip, and you’ll simultaneously experience profound beauty and pain through a cuisine’s powerful story. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new.jpg\" alt=\"Prahok Ktiss\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129834\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prahok Ktiss \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is so much joy in Cambodian cooking, whether starting with a banana blossom, cabbage and sweet basil “ngoum banana salad” or digging into the slightly sweet, profoundly earthy and balanced “kuy teav Phnom Penh” noodles in a seven-hour pork broth that tastes much more like a complex craft cocktail at Trick Dog than the rugged tonkotsu ramen broth you would be expecting. Along with the food, there is tremendous beauty in the stunning natural setting and rich culture of Cambodia, one that is not very well known to the Bay Area audience. As Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Oakland’s five-month old restaurant, Nyum Bai, unfortunately points out — everyone seems to know about Angkor Wat’s temples and the genocide, and that’s about it for Cambodia. She’s trying to change that one guest at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129825\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai making Ngoum Banana Salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129825\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai making Ngoum Banana Salad. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129841\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad.jpg\" alt=\"Nite Yun in Nyum Bai kitchen carrying finished Ngoum Banana Salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1077\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129841\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-800x449.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-768x431.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-1020x572.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-1200x673.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-1180x662.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-960x539.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-375x210.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-520x292.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite Yun in Nyum Bai kitchen carrying finished Ngoum Banana Salad. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129829\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ngoum Banana Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129829\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ngoum Banana Salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Nite’s earliest memories from her youth are eating rice with her hands on the floor of her family’s apartment in Stockton while mid-century Khmer rock and roll music played in the background. That was a common portrait of her life growing up in the Central Valley town, where she constantly grappled with the question of identity that countless immigrants in this country think about. Her life was nothing similar to her friends in high school — they probably didn’t even know where Cambodia was and definitely didn’t eat rice with their hands. On the flip side, she wasn’t really part of the Americana culture of eating hamburgers and watching TV shows all the time. Nite just focused on school and family, spending most of her time at home with her parents and two brothers (she’s the middle child). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129820\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kuy Teav Phnom Penh\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129820\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kuy Teav Phnom Penh \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129821\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kuy Teav Phnom Penh with noodles displayed.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129821\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kuy Teav Phnom Penh with noodles displayed. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She doesn’t have memories of before Stockton. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nite’s parents dodged land mines, worked in labor camps and managed to flee the horrific genocide during the Khmer Rouge’s reign of terror in Cambodia during the late 1970s. Her parents spent five years in a refugee camp in Thailand where Nite was born. The family was sponsored by a church group in Texas and immigrated to the U.S. before quickly relocating to Stockton because of the large Cambodian expat community there. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nite didn’t fully understand the scope of the genocide or why her parents didn’t open up much about their past until well into her youth. She acknowledges now that they struggled with a form of PTSD and that is a reason that she learned very little about her mysterious homeland of Cambodia until she grew older.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trips back to Cambodia in her early adult years helped Nite better understand her heritage and planted the idea of Nyum Bai in her mind. At first, she spent four years at SF State in the nursing program but knew that wasn’t for her, telling us, “How could I be a nurse if I didn’t care? It was all compounded. Everything that was in the hospital I was so unhappy about, like learning about it was one thing, but actually working in the hospital, wearing scrubs [and] the lighting, the smells and everything, it was like, ‘Get me out of here!’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was on her third trip back to Cambodia, while eating a bowl of soup in a market, that she realized she should start her own food business. Through Nyum Bai, Nite says, she could open up her country by “sharing Cambodia [and] teaching people about Cambodia through the cuisine, but also a way for people to reunite with their roots.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129848\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Take Away Window at Nyum Bai.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129848\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Take Away Window at Nyum Bai. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She had no idea how this was going to actually be a business. She didn’t have any formal culinary training other than cooking extensively with her mom and then on her own at college when she started missing her mom’s recipes. Though she lacked the business plan, she definitely didn’t lack what she describes as “purpose.” Nite set about on her own doing recipe testing and held private dinners at her home. A visit to the 2009 La Cocina Street Food Festival convinced her to reach out to the organization but she didn’t feel ready to truly be an entrepreneur. She incorrectly doubted herself. After all, she even knew that one of her mom’s frequent sayings, “Nyum Bai,” (a Cambodian phrase for “Eat rice” or “Let’s eat!”) should be the name of this future concept. Instead of having a formal interview, Nite was asked to cater a board meeting for La Cocina and that become an informal interview — a “trick” she admits — and Nite joined in 2014. Nyum Bai found a stall in the Emeryville Public Market in early 2017 (now occupied by Minnie Bell’s) and that expansion made the entire Bay Area realize that Cambodian food should be, and thankfully now is, on the map of vital cuisines to sample and learn more about.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emeryville gave her lessons that she badly needed for achieving that grander dream — her own spot. Some of the challenges she encountered and had to get past included “learning how to be a leader, scaling up recipes, sharing my stories and opening up to strangers.” It didn’t take long for the opportunity of a permanent Oakland spot to appear. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129823\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new.jpg\" alt=\"Colorful Nyum Bai interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129823\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Colorful Nyum Bai interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The owner of the Fruitvale, Oakland burgers and craft beers spot, The Half Orange, was connected to La Cocina and informed the organization that he was going to be closing the business. Around the same time, Nite’s yearlong lease for Emeryville was winding down. It was a no-brainer match for Nyum Bai and Fruitvale (though her commute from West Oakland has gone from five minutes to fifteen minutes!). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129831\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nyum Bai interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129831\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nyum Bai interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Half Orange’s narrow space, open kitchen and charming patio area, plus Fruitvale’s diversity and constant energy just felt like Nyum Bai’s right home. The dining room has a striking pink neon and aquatic blue slatted fixture, cheery bursts of white and bright colored paints, and Khmer rock and roll albums on the walls. The outside patio is festive and bustling, feeling like it could be a roadside market with its narrow bench seating, but is also singularly “Oakland” via the neighboring market’s mariachi music and piñatas. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129815\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nyum Bai dinner and lunch menus.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129815\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nyum Bai dinner and lunch menus. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The extensive dinner menu has three sections: starters like grilled beef skewers with a honey and “kroeung” (a Cambodian spice paste) dipping sauce, or taro, pork and glass noodle-filled crispy rolls; a trio of noodles dishes under their own heading; and “With Rice” dishes ranging from crispy catfish topped with green mango salad to the southern Khmer sweet and peppery pork belly stew called “koh.” Weekday lunch is counter-service and an abbreviated menu of noodles, rice plates, snacks and some intriguing salad and sandwich creations (new fried chicken sandwich alert!). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129849\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nyum Bai outdoor eating space.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129849\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nyum Bai outdoor eating space. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fruitvale has been unpredictable in the early going for business because foot traffic can be a challenge (it’s a block removed from the BART station) and there isn’t the natural pull of a built-in residential area. Nite has really enjoyed seeing the mix of travelers going to Cambodia or those who recently visited, the countless adventurous Bay Area diners always on the lookout for learning about global cuisines, and how the region’s Cambodian population has certainly embraced her concept. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nyum Bai is a deeply personal restaurant that reaches back to before Nite was born. You can feel that pain from her country’s past but the joy in the country’s resilience since such unspeakable tragedy. She wanted to provide “a space for the old and the new generation of Cambodians to come together and start healing” and has accomplished that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129830\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai in Oakland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129830\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“If you ever feel like giving up,” Nite says, “just remind yourself why you started the business in the first place.” Words can’t describe what her parents and her homeland went through. At least there is the warmth and beauty of food to connect generations and comfort each other.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://reemscalifornia.com/\">Reem’s\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Reem's+California/@37.7754485,-122.2247451,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x850f93f103291775!8m2!3d37.7754485!4d-122.2247451\">3301 E 12th St #133, Oakland\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://dyafaoakland.com/\">Dyafa\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Dyafa/@37.7936067,-122.2743699,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xe8e7c53f0e32d9ab!8m2!3d37.7936067!4d-122.2743699\">44 Webster St., Oakland\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129869\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new.jpg\" alt=\"#FEELTHEWARMTH at Reem's. Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner wearing her restaurant's t-shirt.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129869\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">#FEELTHEWARMTH at Reem's. Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner wearing her restaurant's t-shirt. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Oakland doesn’t have a Tony Bennett-style flowery ballad nor does it boast iconic and widely photographed pyramids, cable cars and curvy, steep, garden-decorated streets. That’s not Oakland. You don’t leave your heart in The Town; you give your heart to it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129888\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner of Reem’s.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129888\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner of Reem’s.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That has been the case for Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner of Reem’s in Fruitvale and Chef-Partner with Dyafa in Jack London Square, since she moved to Oakland. Growing up in the small Arab community just outside Boston and attending nearby Tufts University, Massachusetts never felt like a place meant for her, for reasons well beyond the predictably harsh winters. Oakland finally felt like “home” with its diversity, its energy and its sense of community. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129866\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new.jpg\" alt=\"Welcome sign at Reem's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129866\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Welcome sign at Reem's. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Reem’s mother is Palestinian and her father is Syrian. The two met after both relocated to Beirut before coming to the United States together. All through her youth, Reem felt like a “stranger in a strange land,” trying to truly figure out her identity. She definitely didn’t think that identity was going to be as a chef — she actually wanted to be an actress and then shifted towards social justice and “trying to change the world” while at Tufts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Reem moved to the Bay Area in 2005 because she “was over Boston” and could crash on her uncle’s couch in Daly City, she ended up working at non-profits and as a community organizer in Oakland for a range of causes and issues from airport labor to urban development policies. It was on a trip in 2010 (just before the Arab Spring) to Lebanon and Syria when the idea for Reem’s was largely created after she absolutely adored the many street corner bakeries in Beirut and Damascus. She was struck not just by how delicious the pastries were, but also how these omnipresent bakeries were sort of like sanctuaries in a city full of constant turmoil — a situation not unlike Oakland, except her new home didn’t have those much-needed communal gathering spots. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129868\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new.jpg\" alt=\"What's a Man'oushe?\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129868\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">What's a Man'oushe? \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129876\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new.jpg\" alt=\"Za'atar Man'oushe.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129876\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Za'atar Man'oushe. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, Reem signed up for baking and pastry classes at Laney College in Oakland, but left after six months to join the well-known, worker-owned Arizmendi Bakery and Pizzeria in Emeryville. After those formative days, there was no doubt where Reem’s career was heading. She was connected to La Cocina in 2014 through the Women’s Initiative Center and initially wanted to have a wood-fired oven attached to a truck à la \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/37826/jon-darskys-del-popolo-pizza-of-the-people\">Del Popolo\u003c/a> to cook her signature item, mana’eesh (puffy pita-like flatbreads). However, she points out that “out of practicality and learning how to run a food business, that concept changed.” Plus, her mom (incorrectly) had doubts about whether Americans would even like mana’eesh. The Reem’s concept pop-ups began first at the Mission Community Market and shortly thereafter she was a mega-hit at several farmers' markets, including the Ferry Building. Her production for the markets and catering was bursting at the seams of La Cocina. She essentially had to go. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129880\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese Man'Oushe with added Veg Mix and Farm Fresh Egg.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese Man'Oushe with added Veg Mix and Farm Fresh Egg. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With fortuitous timing, Reem was connected to a former Chinese fast food restaurant space in busy Fruitvale Village as her production was surging. It was the perfect spot geographically and physically for Reem’s brick-and-mortar debut, complete with plenty of baking and mana'eesh oven space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129883\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil's husband, J behind the front counter at Reem's. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129883\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem's husband, J behind the front counter sporting a shirt that says \"Freedom to STAY, Freedom to MOVE, Freedom to RETURN.\" \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129884\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem's entryway, mural, display case, open kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129884\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem's entryway, mural, display case, open kitchen. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129870\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new.jpg\" alt=\"The dining area at Reem's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129870\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The dining area at Reem's. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bakery/café has become a fixture for a diverse range of customers, heavy on families in the daytime and commuters in the evening. They come together to enjoy Reem’s “unapologetically Arab street food” with “California love.” That means saj wraps (flatbreads cooked on a dome-shaped griddle) and oven-baked mana’eesh topped with anything from za’atar made in Jordan to avocado to falafel to sujuk (a beef sausage) to soft-yolk farm fresh eggs. Guests will also find various baked goods, fattoush, spreads, and handheld “mu’ajinaat” pastries in flavors like lamb, pomegranate and pine nut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129877\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new.jpg\" alt=\"Falafel Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129877\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Falafel Salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129873\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new.jpg\" alt=\"The baking area at Reem's is visible from outside and people can watch baking in action.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129873\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The baking area at Reem's is visible from outside and people can watch baking in action. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129875\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new.jpg\" alt=\"Making Mana'eesh in the open kitchen area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129875\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Making Mana'eesh in the open kitchen area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bakery took years to plan. The second restaurant took weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reem and the chef-restaurateur Daniel Patterson have both long been involved with \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/\">Restaurants Opportunities Center United\u003c/a>, an organization devoted to improving working conditions, wages and diversity in restaurant labor. A few months ago, Patterson informed Reem that his Jack London Square restaurant Haven was going to pivot concepts. She pitched to Patterson the idea of Dyafa, a hipper, more ambitious take on Arab cuisine concept named for “hospitality.” Quickly, Dyafa came to fruition and opened in April 2018, just a month after her son Zain was born. Talk about a busy spring and current summer for Reem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129900\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new.jpg\" alt=\"Dyafa dining area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129900\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dyafa dining area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129902\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new.jpg\" alt=\"Open kitchen at Dyafa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129902\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Open kitchen at Dyafa. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dyafa is very much “of the moment,” part of a nationwide trend of chic and eclectic Middle Eastern fine dining restaurants. At lunch and dinner, diners at Dyafa usually start with an order of those same mezze spreads as at Reem’s, highlighted by a smoky baba ghanoush that is so smoky that you’d swear it has an ounce of mezcal in it. Lunch tends to be more simpler fare, led by saj wraps that might be the “shish tawook” filled with spicy chicken kebab or turmeric-spiced cauliflower, eggplant and feta cheese in the “Steph Curry.” The latter is obviously an Oakland must-order for the name alone. Dinner sports a much more extensive selection of cold mezze and hot mezze, plus large plates like sumac-spiced chicken confit and braised lamb shank with garlic yogurt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129903\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new.jpg\" alt=\"Mezze Sampler at Dyafa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129903\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mezze Sampler at Dyafa. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129904\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new.jpg\" alt=\"Steph Curry saj: turmeric-spiced cauliflower, eggplant, feta, roasted garlic.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129904\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dyafa's Steph Curry saj: turmeric-spiced cauliflower, eggplant, feta, roasted garlic. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The two restaurants reside in two complete opposite worlds view-wise. Dyafa looks at the Oakland Estuary’s leisurely boats and tourist scene, while Reem’s 40-seat dining room and vast patio gazes at the frenetic area around Fruitvale BART. Only Dyafa, though, has a popular bar with excellent Arab-leaning cocktails from Alta Group Beverage Director Aaron Paul that seem to be popular even at noon on a weekday, with witty names to boot like To Yaffa With Love (vodka, cara cara orange, curaçao, Grand Poppy liqueur). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129908\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new.jpg\" alt=\"View of outdoor patio and Oakland Estuary in Jack London Square.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129908\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">View of outdoor patio and Oakland Estuary in Jack London Square. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129901\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new.jpg\" alt=\"Bar at Dyafa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129901\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bar at Dyafa. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129905\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new.jpg\" alt=\"Dyafa's nature design with tree roots dangling from exposed rafters.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129905\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dyafa's nature design with tree roots dangling from exposed rafters. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dyafa also sports a sleek Middle East-meets-California nature design with tree roots dangling from exposed rafters and mosaic tiles on the floor. Reem’s is definitely not trying to be anything hip or lounge-like. Instead, the space is homey and charming as both a meal-gathering place and weekday freelance workforce office. It boasts bright colors (think light green, pink, yellow); Arabic script on the walls including the names of Kickstarter donors; a bakery case, open kitchen and ordering counter; and a mural of Rasmea Odeh and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shooting_of_Oscar_Grant\">Oscar Grant\u003c/a> (the unarmed black man killed at Fruitvale BART in 2009).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129863\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil stands by the mural of Rasmea Odeh and Oscar Grant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129863\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem Assil stands by the mural of Rasmea Odeh and Oscar Grant. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ah, the mural. Much has been written about the controversy of the mural and Eater SF’s Andrew Dalton has a thorough breakdown of the situation last summer when “J., the Jewish News of California,” featured an op-ed denouncing the artwork’s meaning and a \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2017/6/23/15820576/reems-arab-bakery-rasema-odeh-oakland-controversy\">large controversy\u003c/a> emerged. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129874\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1858px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new.jpg\" alt=\"Statement about the mural.\" width=\"1858\" height=\"1239\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129874\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new.jpg 1858w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1858px) 100vw, 1858px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Statement about the mural. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the aftermath, there were death threats, a cascade of threatening Yelp reviews (mostly from non-diners), protesters, a need for Oakland police to be stationed outside, and even a star turn in, of all places, \u003ca href=\"https://www.breitbart.com/california/2017/06/20/oakland-bakery-pays-homage-to-convicted-soon-to-be-deported-palestinian-terrorist-rasmea-odeh/\">Breitbart\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That all was definitely not in the business plan for a place that encourages to \u003cstrong>“#Feelthewarmth”\u003c/strong> and has a vision to “build strong, resilient community” in the power of food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The mural is important to Reem because she sees Odeh, a Palestinian, as a “symbol of unfairness in immigration.” Odeh was convicted in 1969 of being involved in a supermarket bombing that killed two Israeli students in Jerusalem. After a decade in jail, she was freed in a prisoner exchange with the Palestinians and immigrated to the U.S. in the 1990s. She was instrumental in organizing the massive Women’s Marches of January 2017, but, because officials claimed that her conviction from 1969 was never reported to U.S. officials, Odeh was deported back to her homeland of Jordan last fall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reem continually seeks the healthy discussion that the topic badly needs, telling us “a lot of it wasn’t even about the mural. It was the fact that I was Palestinian and Arab.” She admits, “Naturally, that could’ve broken me down and forced me to be quiet, which, at the beginning I was afraid and didn’t know how to maneuver.” However, “the community came through ten times as much than the other side, like ‘we have your back.’ It created an opportunity for me to educate folks about who Rasmea is and why she’s important. And who Oscar Grant is and why the symbol of him on my wall is important.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Race, religion, police actions, the question of Israel and Palestine, immigration — these are of course complex and touchy subjects, no doubt egged on by the current administration as Reem is quick to point out. Regardless of mural opinions, we all can agree that disrespectful Yelp reviews don’t help anything and that Reem’s model of worker fairness and community togetherness is a model that can — and should — defeat religious and political barriers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At La Cocina, Reem realized that, yes, she wanted a small bakery but also be to big picture-minded. Remember “saving the world” at Tufts? She’s working at it. Reem and her peers are already making progress right at home in Fruitvale with a food and drink “ecosystem” between the bakery and neighbors \u003ca href=\"http://www.aleindustries.com/\">Ale Industries\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.redbaycoffee.com/\">Red Bay Coffee\u003c/a> (you can get both at Reem’s). She is hoping to make her own za’atar blend by hiring a group of refugees in the Bay Area to do the work. Who knows what else is on the horizon?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“So much of my restaurants are an homage to Oakland,” Reem acknowledges. Whether you’re dining at Reem’s restaurants in Fruitvale or Jack London Square, you know that you’re at a place trying to lift up its community and you’re very much in Oakland. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/129373/five-la-cocina-graduates-who-now-have-brick-and-mortar-food-businesses","authors":["byline_bayareabites_129373"],"series":["bayareabites_16196"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_13746","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_15155","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_358"],"tags":["bayareabites_16211","bayareabites_16212","bayareabites_9845","bayareabites_295","bayareabites_16213","bayareabites_15743","bayareabites_15551"],"featImg":"bayareabites_129917","label":"bayareabites_16196"},"bayareabites_127744":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_127744","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"127744","score":null,"sort":[1525719619000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"table-talk-enjoy-being-outside-with-presidio-twilight-mothers-day-picks-for-food-loving-moms-tune-in-to-fb-voices-from-the-kitchen","title":"Table Talk: Enjoy Being Outside with Presidio Twilight, Mother’s Day Picks for Food-Loving Moms, Tune In to F&B Voices from the Kitchen","publishDate":1525719619,"format":"standard","headTitle":"KQED’s Table Talk | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":16115,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Rain is less and less in the forecast, so it’s a good time to eat alfresco at Presidio Twilight on Thursdays or Presidio Picnic on Sundays. There’s also the new rooftop bar from Twenty Five Lusk in case you don’t like nature. If you’re looking for some Mother’s Day options in San Francisco, check out these three ideas for moms who love to eat. Mark your calendar for the latest F&B Voices from the Kitchen from La Cocina, and Uptown Oakland gets an SF burger shop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127751\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1201px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-127751\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1.jpg\" alt=\"Presidio Twilight has returned on Thursdays—bring on the lobster rolls and fire pits.\" width=\"1201\" height=\"801\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1.jpg 1201w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1201px) 100vw, 1201px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Presidio Twilight has returned on Thursdays—bring on the lobster rolls and fire pits. \u003ccite>(Eric Bailey)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Presidio Twilight and Presidio Picnic\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Main+Parade+Ground,+Sheridan+Ave,+San+Francisco,+CA+94129/@37.8008499,-122.4622896,16.34z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x808586d82b468047:0x888879a31caf693!8m2!3d37.8005654!4d-122.458334\">Main Parade Ground, Sheridan Ave., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s that time of the year when San Franciscans go from a down jacket to sweater and hat (but always a scarf), and it’s also when \u003ca href=\"https://www.presidio.gov/events/presidio-twilight\">Presidio Twilight\u003c/a> returns, thanks to \u003ca href=\"https://www.presidio.gov/\">The Presidio Trust\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://offthegrid.com/\">Off the Grid\u003c/a>. Starting on May 17, every \u003cstrong>Thursday evening from 5pm–9pm\u003c/strong>, you can come down to the Main Parade Ground with your posse and gather around the fire pits and 30 cabanas (complete with lanterns), and take your pick of vittles from vendors like \u003cstrong>Mozzeria\u003c/strong> (Neapolitan pizza), lobster rolls from \u003cstrong>Cousins Maine Lobster\u003c/strong> (ask them to tell you about their \u003cem>Shark Tank\u003c/em> experience), and \u003cstrong>Johnny Doughnuts\u003c/strong> for dessert. New additions include \u003cstrong>I Love Cheesesteak\u003c/strong>, offering Asian-fusion cheesesteak like seasoned ribeye bao with onion, bell peppers, nacho cheese, and bacon. Don’t tell your cardiologist. There’s also live music and outdoor games (good idea to move around after the cheesesteak).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another option is the popular \u003ca href=\"https://www.presidio.gov/events/presidio-picnic\">Presidio Picnic\u003c/a>, which already returned on \u003cstrong>Sundays, 11am–4pm\u003c/strong> — grab your friends, a blanket, sunscreen, and enjoy up to 25 different food vendors, and a yoga class at 11am.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kudos to the organizers for trying to make both zero-waste events! All containers provided by food vendors are compostable, and no plastic straws or water bottles are sold—please \"leave no trace\" and think about taking \u003ca href=\"http://presidio.gov/transportation\">public transpo\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127753\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-127753\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1.jpg\" alt=\"The well-appointed rooftop space at Rooftop 25.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1334\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The well-appointed rooftop space at Rooftop 25. \u003ccite>(Anne-Claire Thieulon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Twenty-Five Lusk's Rooftop 25\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/25+Lusk/@37.7785673,-122.3965769,17z/data=!4m13!1m7!3m6!1s0x808f7fd640283cc3:0x34e12525eccbd2b5!2s25+Lusk+St,+San+Francisco,+CA+94107!3b1!8m2!3d37.7785673!4d-122.3943829!3m4!1s0x808f7fd640263903:0xf813d8d02ecda3b3!8m2!3d37.7784685!4d-122.3943108\">25 Lusk St, San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Want more fresh air? You got it. Now open in SoMa is the new rooftop bar at \u003ca href=\"http://www.25lusk.com/\">Twenty-Five Lusk\u003c/a> called \u003cstrong>Rooftop 25\u003c/strong>. Not only is it spacious, with room for 100 guests, but it’s also tricked out with a windscreen, retractable canopy, heaters, and blankets, plus there’s a cabana lounge that fits 14 (snuggle up). Designer Cass Calder Smith from CCS Architecture + Design obviously understands San Francisco weather.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here’s the fun part: it’s open \u003cstrong>Sun–Wed 11:30am–8pm and Thu–Sat 11:30am–10pm\u003c/strong>, so you can come by for chef Matthew Dolan’s menu for lunch or happy hour or dinner. Or that magic window in SF weather when we have sun for an hour at 3pm, ha. Bites include roasted oysters with tequila-yuzu butter, wood-fired pizzas or prawns, flatiron steak salad, and a Dungeness crab roll. The cocktails are also meant to be fun, including a spicy blended passion fruit margarita and bottled cocktails.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127756\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-127756\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new.jpg\" alt=\"La Cocina’s F&B Voices from the Kitchen brings speakers from all over the U.S.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Cocina’s F&B Voices from the Kitchen brings speakers from all over the U.S. \u003ccite>(tablehopper.com)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>La Cocina’s F&B Voices from the Kitchen\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Gray+Area+%2F+Grand+Theater/@37.7544054,-122.4205433,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x8085808504553e4f:0x1a2a4247dede4756!8m2!3d37.7544054!4d-122.4183493\">The Gray Theater, 2665 Mission St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFriday, June 1, 6pm-8:30pm\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/fb-voices-from-the-kitchen-service-tickets-45488665824\">Get Tickets\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Have you ever had the chance to attend La Cocina’s \u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/\">F&B: Voices from the Kitchen\u003c/a>? It’s a biannual series of storytelling events based around a theme, sharing stories, perspectives, and voices from and about the cooks and kitchens, and people that are heard from less often than others. It’s always a poignant and revealing evening, and proceeds from F&B support La Cocina’s business incubator program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next event is on Friday, June 1, and it’s based on the theme of \u003cstrong>service\u003c/strong>, sure to be a rich topic. The night of storytellers will include Chris Colin, journalist and author; Rachel Levin, writer and editor; Binita Pradhan, owner of Bini's Kitchen; Shanna Farrell, oral historian and author of \u003cem>Bay Area Cocktails\u003c/em>;\u003cem> \u003c/em>Randy Fertel, writer and philanthropist; and many more. \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/fb-voices-from-the-kitchen-service-tickets-45488665824\">Tickets\u003c/a> are $65 (plus $4.24 service fee), and there’s always some tasty food and drink at the beginning too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127755\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1638px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-127755\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs.jpg\" alt=\"Beef short rib curry at Rooh.\" width=\"1638\" height=\"2048\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs.jpg 1638w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs-160x200.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs-768x960.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs-960x1200.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs-1180x1475.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs-240x300.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs-375x469.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs-520x650.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1638px) 100vw, 1638px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beef short rib curry at Rooh. \u003ccite>(Kelly Puleio)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Mother's Day in San Francisco\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>54 Mint\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/54+Mint+SF/@37.7825768,-122.4101756,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580842deb933f:0xfee4397b25a1c505!8m2!3d37.7825768!4d-122.4079816\">16 Mint Plaza, San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nReservations: 415-543-5100; Hours: 12pm–8pm\u003cbr>\n$55 per person (tax, gratuity, and beverages not included)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mother’s Day\u003c/strong> is fast approaching (\u003cstrong>Sunday, May 13\u003c/strong>, gang!), and it’s the one day you really need to make sure your mom is well-fed—after all the years of feeding you, it’s the least you can do. If your mama is more like a food-lovin’ \u003cem>mamma\u003c/em>, you’ll want to take her to \u003ca href=\"http://www.54mint.com/sanfrancisco\">54 Mint\u003c/a>, since the Italians know all about honoring their mothers! Their \u003ca href=\"http://www.54mint.com/upcoming-events\">three-course, family-style meal\u003c/a> is available from 12pm–8pm, and includes choices like fava bean and pea-shoot salad with pecorino (eat your greens!), porchetta, and tiramisu.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tawla\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Tawla/@37.7696322,-122.4245722,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e2046be4779:0xcebfb5042cfbd738!8m2!3d37.7696322!4d-122.4223782\">206 Valencia St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: 11am–2pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If mom’s palate leans more toward the adventurous, \u003ca href=\"http://www.tawlasf.com/\">Tawla\u003c/a> is hosting an Eastern Mediterranean feast, and good news, you can come by for a savory brunch on either \u003cstrong>Saturday, May 12 or Sunday, May 13\u003c/strong>. There’s their incredible housemade pide (cheese-stuffed flatbread, with fresh chile and herb salad, pickles), roast leg of lamb with three sauces, and their special batata harra (crispy potatoes, maras, sumac, and you can add an egg, which is a great idea), plus other sides and vegetable dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ROOH\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Rooh/@37.7812983,-122.3948759,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580787b995e7f:0x48f12b30cd7c8cdd!8m2!3d37.7812983!4d-122.3926819\">333 Brannan St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: 11am-2:30pm and 5pm-9pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another spot that should be mom-approved (mine loved it) is \u003ca href=\"http://roohsf.com/\">ROOH\u003c/a> in SoMa. This stylin’ progressive Indian restaurant is offering a three-course, prix fixe menu ($45) with flavorful dishes like tandoori monkfish, beef short rib curry, and coconut halwa bread pudding for dessert. Don’t miss their gorg brunch cocktails. ROOH will be open for both brunch (11am-2:30pm) and dinner (5-9pm) on \u003cstrong>Sunday, May 12 for Mother’s Day\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127754\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-127754\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new.jpg\" alt=\"Roam Artisan Burgers is opening a location in Uptown Oakland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new-1200x801.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new-960x641.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roam Artisan Burgers is opening a location in Uptown Oakland. \u003ccite>(Kassie Borreson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Roam Artisan Burgers is opening a location in Uptown Oakland\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Roam+Artisan+Burgers/@37.8092961,-122.2721718,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f80adebff3a43:0xfd8a5498bdb96361!8m2!3d37.8092961!4d-122.2699778\">1951 Telegraph Ave., Oakland\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: Daily 11:30am–10pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Burger fans in the East Bay are about to get a second location of \u003ca href=\"http://www.roamburgers.com/\">Roam Artisan Burgers\u003c/a>—this latest one (their fifth) is \u003cstrong>opening in Uptown Oakland on May 11\u003c/strong>, just conveniently a block away from the Fox and Paramount Theaters. Roam is known for their sustainable sourcing and approach (the build-out was highly eco-conscious as well). The burgers are made with sustainable meats, including 100-percent grass-fed beef, free-range turkey, and an organic veggie burger. I go back to the Tejano again and again (pepper jack, jalapeño relish, avocado, tomato, white corn strips, herb ranch). There’s the fry-fecta too (russet fries, sweet potato fries, and zucchini-onion). You want a shake with that? They’re Straus Family Creamery shakes, and there’s even kombucha on tap. \u003cstrong>Bonus:\u003c/strong> this location will feature a special Springtime Burger with chimichurri, fresh mozzarella, tomato, arugula, and herb mayo. There will also be indoor and outdoor dining.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Mother’s Day options in San Francisco, get outside with the return of Presidio Twilight and Picnic, and don’t miss the latest F&B Voices from the Kitchen from La Cocina.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1525827342,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":21,"wordCount":1308},"headData":{"title":"Table Talk: Enjoy Being Outside with Presidio Twilight, Mother’s Day Picks for Food-Loving Moms, Tune In to F&B Voices from the Kitchen | KQED","description":"Mother’s Day options in San Francisco, get outside with the return of Presidio Twilight and Picnic, and don’t miss the latest F&B Voices from the Kitchen from La Cocina.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"127744 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=127744","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/05/07/table-talk-enjoy-being-outside-with-presidio-twilight-mothers-day-picks-for-food-loving-moms-tune-in-to-fb-voices-from-the-kitchen/","disqusTitle":"Table Talk: Enjoy Being Outside with Presidio Twilight, Mother’s Day Picks for Food-Loving Moms, Tune In to F&B Voices from the Kitchen","path":"/bayareabites/127744/table-talk-enjoy-being-outside-with-presidio-twilight-mothers-day-picks-for-food-loving-moms-tune-in-to-fb-voices-from-the-kitchen","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Rain is less and less in the forecast, so it’s a good time to eat alfresco at Presidio Twilight on Thursdays or Presidio Picnic on Sundays. There’s also the new rooftop bar from Twenty Five Lusk in case you don’t like nature. If you’re looking for some Mother’s Day options in San Francisco, check out these three ideas for moms who love to eat. Mark your calendar for the latest F&B Voices from the Kitchen from La Cocina, and Uptown Oakland gets an SF burger shop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127751\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1201px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-127751\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1.jpg\" alt=\"Presidio Twilight has returned on Thursdays—bring on the lobster rolls and fire pits.\" width=\"1201\" height=\"801\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1.jpg 1201w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Off-the-Grid-Twilight-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1201px) 100vw, 1201px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Presidio Twilight has returned on Thursdays—bring on the lobster rolls and fire pits. \u003ccite>(Eric Bailey)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Presidio Twilight and Presidio Picnic\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Main+Parade+Ground,+Sheridan+Ave,+San+Francisco,+CA+94129/@37.8008499,-122.4622896,16.34z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x808586d82b468047:0x888879a31caf693!8m2!3d37.8005654!4d-122.458334\">Main Parade Ground, Sheridan Ave., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s that time of the year when San Franciscans go from a down jacket to sweater and hat (but always a scarf), and it’s also when \u003ca href=\"https://www.presidio.gov/events/presidio-twilight\">Presidio Twilight\u003c/a> returns, thanks to \u003ca href=\"https://www.presidio.gov/\">The Presidio Trust\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://offthegrid.com/\">Off the Grid\u003c/a>. Starting on May 17, every \u003cstrong>Thursday evening from 5pm–9pm\u003c/strong>, you can come down to the Main Parade Ground with your posse and gather around the fire pits and 30 cabanas (complete with lanterns), and take your pick of vittles from vendors like \u003cstrong>Mozzeria\u003c/strong> (Neapolitan pizza), lobster rolls from \u003cstrong>Cousins Maine Lobster\u003c/strong> (ask them to tell you about their \u003cem>Shark Tank\u003c/em> experience), and \u003cstrong>Johnny Doughnuts\u003c/strong> for dessert. New additions include \u003cstrong>I Love Cheesesteak\u003c/strong>, offering Asian-fusion cheesesteak like seasoned ribeye bao with onion, bell peppers, nacho cheese, and bacon. Don’t tell your cardiologist. There’s also live music and outdoor games (good idea to move around after the cheesesteak).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another option is the popular \u003ca href=\"https://www.presidio.gov/events/presidio-picnic\">Presidio Picnic\u003c/a>, which already returned on \u003cstrong>Sundays, 11am–4pm\u003c/strong> — grab your friends, a blanket, sunscreen, and enjoy up to 25 different food vendors, and a yoga class at 11am.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kudos to the organizers for trying to make both zero-waste events! All containers provided by food vendors are compostable, and no plastic straws or water bottles are sold—please \"leave no trace\" and think about taking \u003ca href=\"http://presidio.gov/transportation\">public transpo\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127753\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-127753\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1.jpg\" alt=\"The well-appointed rooftop space at Rooftop 25.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1334\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Rooftop25-side_Anne-ClaireThieulon-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The well-appointed rooftop space at Rooftop 25. \u003ccite>(Anne-Claire Thieulon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Twenty-Five Lusk's Rooftop 25\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/25+Lusk/@37.7785673,-122.3965769,17z/data=!4m13!1m7!3m6!1s0x808f7fd640283cc3:0x34e12525eccbd2b5!2s25+Lusk+St,+San+Francisco,+CA+94107!3b1!8m2!3d37.7785673!4d-122.3943829!3m4!1s0x808f7fd640263903:0xf813d8d02ecda3b3!8m2!3d37.7784685!4d-122.3943108\">25 Lusk St, San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Want more fresh air? You got it. Now open in SoMa is the new rooftop bar at \u003ca href=\"http://www.25lusk.com/\">Twenty-Five Lusk\u003c/a> called \u003cstrong>Rooftop 25\u003c/strong>. Not only is it spacious, with room for 100 guests, but it’s also tricked out with a windscreen, retractable canopy, heaters, and blankets, plus there’s a cabana lounge that fits 14 (snuggle up). Designer Cass Calder Smith from CCS Architecture + Design obviously understands San Francisco weather.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here’s the fun part: it’s open \u003cstrong>Sun–Wed 11:30am–8pm and Thu–Sat 11:30am–10pm\u003c/strong>, so you can come by for chef Matthew Dolan’s menu for lunch or happy hour or dinner. Or that magic window in SF weather when we have sun for an hour at 3pm, ha. Bites include roasted oysters with tequila-yuzu butter, wood-fired pizzas or prawns, flatiron steak salad, and a Dungeness crab roll. The cocktails are also meant to be fun, including a spicy blended passion fruit margarita and bottled cocktails.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127756\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-127756\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new.jpg\" alt=\"La Cocina’s F&B Voices from the Kitchen brings speakers from all over the U.S.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/fandb-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Cocina’s F&B Voices from the Kitchen brings speakers from all over the U.S. \u003ccite>(tablehopper.com)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>La Cocina’s F&B Voices from the Kitchen\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Gray+Area+%2F+Grand+Theater/@37.7544054,-122.4205433,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x8085808504553e4f:0x1a2a4247dede4756!8m2!3d37.7544054!4d-122.4183493\">The Gray Theater, 2665 Mission St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFriday, June 1, 6pm-8:30pm\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/fb-voices-from-the-kitchen-service-tickets-45488665824\">Get Tickets\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Have you ever had the chance to attend La Cocina’s \u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/\">F&B: Voices from the Kitchen\u003c/a>? It’s a biannual series of storytelling events based around a theme, sharing stories, perspectives, and voices from and about the cooks and kitchens, and people that are heard from less often than others. It’s always a poignant and revealing evening, and proceeds from F&B support La Cocina’s business incubator program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next event is on Friday, June 1, and it’s based on the theme of \u003cstrong>service\u003c/strong>, sure to be a rich topic. The night of storytellers will include Chris Colin, journalist and author; Rachel Levin, writer and editor; Binita Pradhan, owner of Bini's Kitchen; Shanna Farrell, oral historian and author of \u003cem>Bay Area Cocktails\u003c/em>;\u003cem> \u003c/em>Randy Fertel, writer and philanthropist; and many more. \u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/fb-voices-from-the-kitchen-service-tickets-45488665824\">Tickets\u003c/a> are $65 (plus $4.24 service fee), and there’s always some tasty food and drink at the beginning too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127755\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1638px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-127755\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs.jpg\" alt=\"Beef short rib curry at Rooh.\" width=\"1638\" height=\"2048\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs.jpg 1638w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs-160x200.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs-800x1000.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs-768x960.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs-1020x1275.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs-960x1200.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs-1180x1475.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs-240x300.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs-375x469.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/rooh-ribs-520x650.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1638px) 100vw, 1638px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beef short rib curry at Rooh. \u003ccite>(Kelly Puleio)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Mother's Day in San Francisco\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>54 Mint\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/54+Mint+SF/@37.7825768,-122.4101756,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580842deb933f:0xfee4397b25a1c505!8m2!3d37.7825768!4d-122.4079816\">16 Mint Plaza, San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nReservations: 415-543-5100; Hours: 12pm–8pm\u003cbr>\n$55 per person (tax, gratuity, and beverages not included)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mother’s Day\u003c/strong> is fast approaching (\u003cstrong>Sunday, May 13\u003c/strong>, gang!), and it’s the one day you really need to make sure your mom is well-fed—after all the years of feeding you, it’s the least you can do. If your mama is more like a food-lovin’ \u003cem>mamma\u003c/em>, you’ll want to take her to \u003ca href=\"http://www.54mint.com/sanfrancisco\">54 Mint\u003c/a>, since the Italians know all about honoring their mothers! Their \u003ca href=\"http://www.54mint.com/upcoming-events\">three-course, family-style meal\u003c/a> is available from 12pm–8pm, and includes choices like fava bean and pea-shoot salad with pecorino (eat your greens!), porchetta, and tiramisu.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tawla\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Tawla/@37.7696322,-122.4245722,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7e2046be4779:0xcebfb5042cfbd738!8m2!3d37.7696322!4d-122.4223782\">206 Valencia St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: 11am–2pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If mom’s palate leans more toward the adventurous, \u003ca href=\"http://www.tawlasf.com/\">Tawla\u003c/a> is hosting an Eastern Mediterranean feast, and good news, you can come by for a savory brunch on either \u003cstrong>Saturday, May 12 or Sunday, May 13\u003c/strong>. There’s their incredible housemade pide (cheese-stuffed flatbread, with fresh chile and herb salad, pickles), roast leg of lamb with three sauces, and their special batata harra (crispy potatoes, maras, sumac, and you can add an egg, which is a great idea), plus other sides and vegetable dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ROOH\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Rooh/@37.7812983,-122.3948759,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808580787b995e7f:0x48f12b30cd7c8cdd!8m2!3d37.7812983!4d-122.3926819\">333 Brannan St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: 11am-2:30pm and 5pm-9pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another spot that should be mom-approved (mine loved it) is \u003ca href=\"http://roohsf.com/\">ROOH\u003c/a> in SoMa. This stylin’ progressive Indian restaurant is offering a three-course, prix fixe menu ($45) with flavorful dishes like tandoori monkfish, beef short rib curry, and coconut halwa bread pudding for dessert. Don’t miss their gorg brunch cocktails. ROOH will be open for both brunch (11am-2:30pm) and dinner (5-9pm) on \u003cstrong>Sunday, May 12 for Mother’s Day\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_127754\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-127754\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new.jpg\" alt=\"Roam Artisan Burgers is opening a location in Uptown Oakland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new-1200x801.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new-960x641.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/05/Roam_burger-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roam Artisan Burgers is opening a location in Uptown Oakland. \u003ccite>(Kassie Borreson)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Roam Artisan Burgers is opening a location in Uptown Oakland\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Roam+Artisan+Burgers/@37.8092961,-122.2721718,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f80adebff3a43:0xfd8a5498bdb96361!8m2!3d37.8092961!4d-122.2699778\">1951 Telegraph Ave., Oakland\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHours: Daily 11:30am–10pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Burger fans in the East Bay are about to get a second location of \u003ca href=\"http://www.roamburgers.com/\">Roam Artisan Burgers\u003c/a>—this latest one (their fifth) is \u003cstrong>opening in Uptown Oakland on May 11\u003c/strong>, just conveniently a block away from the Fox and Paramount Theaters. Roam is known for their sustainable sourcing and approach (the build-out was highly eco-conscious as well). The burgers are made with sustainable meats, including 100-percent grass-fed beef, free-range turkey, and an organic veggie burger. I go back to the Tejano again and again (pepper jack, jalapeño relish, avocado, tomato, white corn strips, herb ranch). There’s the fry-fecta too (russet fries, sweet potato fries, and zucchini-onion). You want a shake with that? They’re Straus Family Creamery shakes, and there’s even kombucha on tap. \u003cstrong>Bonus:\u003c/strong> this location will feature a special Springtime Burger with chimichurri, fresh mozzarella, tomato, arugula, and herb mayo. There will also be indoor and outdoor dining.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/127744/table-talk-enjoy-being-outside-with-presidio-twilight-mothers-day-picks-for-food-loving-moms-tune-in-to-fb-voices-from-the-kitchen","authors":["11398"],"series":["bayareabites_16115"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_295","bayareabites_16144","bayareabites_16145","bayareabites_16146"],"featImg":"bayareabites_127749","label":"bayareabites_16115"},"bayareabites_125827":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_125827","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"125827","score":null,"sort":[1521305421000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"oyna-natural-foods-brings-persian-culture-and-kuku-to-the-bay-area","title":"Oyna Natural Foods Brings Persian Culture and Kuku to the Bay Area","publishDate":1521305421,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Business partners and lifemates Aisan Hoss and Mehdi Parnia had no intention of going into the food business when they first left Iran. As a dancer and a civil engineer respectively, Aisan and Mehdi immigrated to the United States with the hopes of finding a welcoming place to call home. But with a shared love for the food of their homeland, they wound up embarking on a mission to bring Persian cuisine to the Bay Area, starting with \u003cem>kuku\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Finding Home in Dance and in Food\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Aisan’s art begins with a love of dance. While living with Mehdi in their home country of Iran, Aisan opened up a dance studio, even though it was officially illegal to dance in Iran. Through word-of-mouth, the underground studio grew so exponentially that it caught the attention of the government, so she decided to apply for a dance program abroad.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID=\"food_1332170\" label=\"Taste This: Kuku, The Persian Frittata\"]\u003cbr>\nIn 2013, Mehdi and Aisan moved to the United States, so that she could freely pursue her passion for dance. When she arrived in Oakland with a scholarship to Mills College, Aisan was overwhelmed with the sense of community she felt from her fellow students. Aisan and Mehdi began to feel at home in a different country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I wondered, ‘Why are people so nice here?’” she recalls. “Any problems I had, people would tell me how they were going to help fix them.” Medhi adds, “It’s about feeling accepted. People here are interested in listening to my story and where I came from.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Aisan’s dance program came to an end, the couple had to decide whether or not they would continue to stay in the United States. Mehdi and Aisan decided they needed a long-term plan in order to make that decision. That’s when the idea of starting \u003ca href=\"https://cuesa.org/seller/oyna-natural-foods\">Oyna Natural Foods\u003c/a> to share Persian cuisine came to life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125830\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 610px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/DSC_0140-web-crop.jpg\" alt=\"Oyna’s kuku\" width=\"610\" height=\"407\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125830\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/DSC_0140-web-crop.jpg 610w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/DSC_0140-web-crop-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/DSC_0140-web-crop-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/DSC_0140-web-crop-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/DSC_0140-web-crop-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 610px) 100vw, 610px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oyna’s kuku \u003ccite>(CUESA)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Kuku 101\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>A kuku is best described as a savory Persian-style frittata, but unlike a frittata, the kuku contains a lot less egg. Persian food is heavily based on herbs, and the kuku is no exception, made up of over 70 percent herbs and vegetables. Oyna’s kuku are dairy- and gluten-free, with no sugar added. In a country where unhealthy, processed food is so readily available, Mehdi and Aisan saw a need for fresh, healthy, ready-to-eat food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In April of 2016, the couple enrolled in \u003ca href=\"https://cuesa.org/seller/la-cocina\">La Cocina’s\u003c/a> food business incubator program. Although Aisan was the mastermind behind their signature kuku, the recipe wasn’t cemented until after they were accepted into the program. In fact, Aisan was unsure whether or not she would be able to recreate the traditional Persian frittata.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We knew we were going to have a Persian food business, but we didn’t know what we were going to make. One day, Mehdi comes home and says ‘I found it. We are going to make kuku,’” Aisan says. “Who is going to make these kuku? I have made it once, and it ended up like stone!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After Aisan’s countless test batches, and with Mehdi’s meticulous recipe record-keeping, they were able to hone their signature kuku recipes. “The thing about me is that I have to be a master at things,” she says. “I feel like there are a lot of great chefs in the Bay Area, and I don’t want to call myself a chef yet because I want to give them the respect they deserve. They have been doing this for years. Just like dancing, you can’t do three months of training and call yourself a professional dancer.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fast forward to Oyna’s first market day in Walnut Creek in January 2017, and the crowd of people trying to get a taste of kuku would beg to differ. “Although Persians absolutely love our kuku when we bring them to catering events, we didn’t know if Americans would like them,” says Aisan. Despite it being a rainy day, Oyna completely sold out within the first two hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last fall, Oyna started bringing kuku to the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market in San Francisco. The most popular item on the menu is the Sabzi kuku—the signature kuku of Iran—made with chives, parsley, cilantro, dill, walnut, and barberry. All kuku can be paired with Oyna’s garlic-yogurt and mint-parsley sauces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125829\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 610px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/aisan-and-mehdi_oyna.jpg\" alt=\"Aisan Hoss and Mehdi Parnia owners of Oyna Natural Foods\" width=\"610\" height=\"407\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125829\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/aisan-and-mehdi_oyna.jpg 610w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/aisan-and-mehdi_oyna-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/aisan-and-mehdi_oyna-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/aisan-and-mehdi_oyna-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/aisan-and-mehdi_oyna-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 610px) 100vw, 610px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aisan Hoss and Mehdi Parnia owners of Oyna Natural Foods \u003ccite>(CUESA)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Food as a Bridge Beyond Politics\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Behind every food is a culture and a country of origin, but Aisan firmly believes that people should be able enjoy food without having to bring one’s preconceptions or politics to the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some customers have been hesitant to try kuku when they see the word Persian, which is why Oyna is on a mission to deliver products made with all fresh ingredients and to raise awareness about Persian culture through your tastebuds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When people try to ask us about politics we just say, ‘Let’s talk about food,’” says Aisan. “First we draw them in with the taste of the food, then without knowing it, they become a fan of the cuisine. Then they want to know how we eat in Iran, and they slowly get closer to the culture. And that’s really valuable to us.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Visit Oyna Natural Foods at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market on Saturdays (8 am to 2 pm) and stop by the CUESA Classroom today (3/17/18) at 12:00 for a \u003ca href=\"https://cuesa.org/event/2018/aisan-hoss-oyna-natural-foods\">Market to Table Demo with Aisan Hoss\u003c/a>. In celebration of Persian New Year, Oyna will be serving saffron herb rice to pair with the Sabzi kuku at their booth this Saturday.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Aisan Hoss and Mehdi Parnia, La Cocina graduates, started Oyna Natural Foods to brings Persian culture and Kuku to the Bay Area.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1552931191,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":1033},"headData":{"title":"Oyna Natural Foods Brings Persian Culture and Kuku to the Bay Area | KQED","description":"Aisan Hoss and Mehdi Parnia, La Cocina graduates, started Oyna Natural Foods to brings Persian culture and Kuku to the Bay Area.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"125827 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=125827","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/03/17/oyna-natural-foods-brings-persian-culture-and-kuku-to-the-bay-area/","disqusTitle":"Oyna Natural Foods Brings Persian Culture and Kuku to the Bay Area","nprByline":"Daisy Prad, \u003ca href=\"https://cuesa.org/\">CUESA\u003c/a>","path":"/bayareabites/125827/oyna-natural-foods-brings-persian-culture-and-kuku-to-the-bay-area","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Business partners and lifemates Aisan Hoss and Mehdi Parnia had no intention of going into the food business when they first left Iran. As a dancer and a civil engineer respectively, Aisan and Mehdi immigrated to the United States with the hopes of finding a welcoming place to call home. But with a shared love for the food of their homeland, they wound up embarking on a mission to bring Persian cuisine to the Bay Area, starting with \u003cem>kuku\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Finding Home in Dance and in Food\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Aisan’s art begins with a love of dance. While living with Mehdi in their home country of Iran, Aisan opened up a dance studio, even though it was officially illegal to dance in Iran. Through word-of-mouth, the underground studio grew so exponentially that it caught the attention of the government, so she decided to apply for a dance program abroad.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"food_1332170","label":"Taste This: Kuku, The Persian Frittata "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nIn 2013, Mehdi and Aisan moved to the United States, so that she could freely pursue her passion for dance. When she arrived in Oakland with a scholarship to Mills College, Aisan was overwhelmed with the sense of community she felt from her fellow students. Aisan and Mehdi began to feel at home in a different country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I wondered, ‘Why are people so nice here?’” she recalls. “Any problems I had, people would tell me how they were going to help fix them.” Medhi adds, “It’s about feeling accepted. People here are interested in listening to my story and where I came from.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Aisan’s dance program came to an end, the couple had to decide whether or not they would continue to stay in the United States. Mehdi and Aisan decided they needed a long-term plan in order to make that decision. That’s when the idea of starting \u003ca href=\"https://cuesa.org/seller/oyna-natural-foods\">Oyna Natural Foods\u003c/a> to share Persian cuisine came to life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125830\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 610px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/DSC_0140-web-crop.jpg\" alt=\"Oyna’s kuku\" width=\"610\" height=\"407\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125830\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/DSC_0140-web-crop.jpg 610w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/DSC_0140-web-crop-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/DSC_0140-web-crop-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/DSC_0140-web-crop-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/DSC_0140-web-crop-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 610px) 100vw, 610px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Oyna’s kuku \u003ccite>(CUESA)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Kuku 101\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>A kuku is best described as a savory Persian-style frittata, but unlike a frittata, the kuku contains a lot less egg. Persian food is heavily based on herbs, and the kuku is no exception, made up of over 70 percent herbs and vegetables. Oyna’s kuku are dairy- and gluten-free, with no sugar added. In a country where unhealthy, processed food is so readily available, Mehdi and Aisan saw a need for fresh, healthy, ready-to-eat food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In April of 2016, the couple enrolled in \u003ca href=\"https://cuesa.org/seller/la-cocina\">La Cocina’s\u003c/a> food business incubator program. Although Aisan was the mastermind behind their signature kuku, the recipe wasn’t cemented until after they were accepted into the program. In fact, Aisan was unsure whether or not she would be able to recreate the traditional Persian frittata.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We knew we were going to have a Persian food business, but we didn’t know what we were going to make. One day, Mehdi comes home and says ‘I found it. We are going to make kuku,’” Aisan says. “Who is going to make these kuku? I have made it once, and it ended up like stone!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After Aisan’s countless test batches, and with Mehdi’s meticulous recipe record-keeping, they were able to hone their signature kuku recipes. “The thing about me is that I have to be a master at things,” she says. “I feel like there are a lot of great chefs in the Bay Area, and I don’t want to call myself a chef yet because I want to give them the respect they deserve. They have been doing this for years. Just like dancing, you can’t do three months of training and call yourself a professional dancer.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fast forward to Oyna’s first market day in Walnut Creek in January 2017, and the crowd of people trying to get a taste of kuku would beg to differ. “Although Persians absolutely love our kuku when we bring them to catering events, we didn’t know if Americans would like them,” says Aisan. Despite it being a rainy day, Oyna completely sold out within the first two hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last fall, Oyna started bringing kuku to the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market in San Francisco. The most popular item on the menu is the Sabzi kuku—the signature kuku of Iran—made with chives, parsley, cilantro, dill, walnut, and barberry. All kuku can be paired with Oyna’s garlic-yogurt and mint-parsley sauces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125829\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 610px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/aisan-and-mehdi_oyna.jpg\" alt=\"Aisan Hoss and Mehdi Parnia owners of Oyna Natural Foods\" width=\"610\" height=\"407\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125829\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/aisan-and-mehdi_oyna.jpg 610w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/aisan-and-mehdi_oyna-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/aisan-and-mehdi_oyna-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/aisan-and-mehdi_oyna-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/03/aisan-and-mehdi_oyna-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 610px) 100vw, 610px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aisan Hoss and Mehdi Parnia owners of Oyna Natural Foods \u003ccite>(CUESA)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Food as a Bridge Beyond Politics\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Behind every food is a culture and a country of origin, but Aisan firmly believes that people should be able enjoy food without having to bring one’s preconceptions or politics to the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some customers have been hesitant to try kuku when they see the word Persian, which is why Oyna is on a mission to deliver products made with all fresh ingredients and to raise awareness about Persian culture through your tastebuds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When people try to ask us about politics we just say, ‘Let’s talk about food,’” says Aisan. “First we draw them in with the taste of the food, then without knowing it, they become a fan of the cuisine. Then they want to know how we eat in Iran, and they slowly get closer to the culture. And that’s really valuable to us.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Visit Oyna Natural Foods at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market on Saturdays (8 am to 2 pm) and stop by the CUESA Classroom today (3/17/18) at 12:00 for a \u003ca href=\"https://cuesa.org/event/2018/aisan-hoss-oyna-natural-foods\">Market to Table Demo with Aisan Hoss\u003c/a>. In celebration of Persian New Year, Oyna will be serving saffron herb rice to pair with the Sabzi kuku at their booth this Saturday.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/125827/oyna-natural-foods-brings-persian-culture-and-kuku-to-the-bay-area","authors":["byline_bayareabites_125827"],"categories":["bayareabites_95","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_1875"],"tags":["bayareabites_237","bayareabites_295","bayareabites_16364","bayareabites_11896"],"featImg":"bayareabites_125831","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_121997":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_121997","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"121997","score":null,"sort":[1509115900000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"stories-of-soup-sandwiches-and-spuds-illuminate-the-subject-of-refuge-at-la-cocinas-voices-from-the-kitchen","title":"Stories of Soup, Sandwiches and Spuds Illuminate the Subject of Refuge at La Cocina’s ‘Voices from the Kitchen’ ","publishDate":1509115900,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>An unlikely pair of very American sandwiches, a Reuben and a PB&J, ushered in an evening of eloquently told tales illuminating many facets of \u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/storytellers/http:/voicesfromthekitchen.org/storytellers/\">Refuge\u003c/a> at The Swedish American Hall on October 19. \u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a>’s latest storytelling performance of \u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/\">F&B: Voices from the Kitchen\u003c/a>, featured impassioned words and searing images from more than a dozen writers, filmmakers, chefs and graduates of its incubator program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122108\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new.jpg\" alt=\"Geetika Agrawal, Senior Program Manager at La Cocina and Heena Patel, from Gujarat India, a La Cocina entrepreneur and founder of Rasoi.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122108\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Geetika Agrawal, Senior Program Manager at La Cocina, Reuben the sandwich, and Heena Patel, from Gujarat India, a La Cocina entrepreneur and founder of Rasoi. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To Heena Patel, an immigrant from Gujarat India who came to the U.S. 25 years ago, permanent refuge in America became possible thanks to a Reuben sandwich. She and her husband initially owned a flower shop and a liquor store. Even though she already worked 12 hours a day, when a neighbor inquired if she would manage his restaurant, she accepted, as it represented a pathway to citizenship. The only snag was that the menu of Hofbrau, the restaurant in question, consisted almost entirely of meat. And meat was something the vegetarian Patel had never even tasted. Nevertheless, this determined woman mastered the art of making the perfect hot corned beef, Swiss cheese and sauerkraut sandwich. On the proudest day of her life, when she became an American citizen, she told us she offered her thanks to “Reuben” who made it all possible. With support from La Cocina, she has now created her own business, Rasoi, cooking vegetarian Gujarati Indian dishes for the Ferry Building Farmers Market. But she dreams of a future food truck and restaurant; dreams, she admitted, that are full of stars (Michelin stars, that is).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sharing the stage with Patel was American-born Geetika Agrawal, Senior Program Manager at La Cocina, whose Indian immigrant parents supported her Americanization by sending her to school every day with a “real American lunch.” Her mother lovingly packed her a Capri Sun, fruit, a granola bar and a green peanut butter and jelly sandwich until the middle of third grade when someone made fun of her green sandwich. (The mysterious green ingredient turned out to have been mint jelly, judged by her parents to be the most interesting of all the jam flavors in the market). After third grade, this novel culinary combo was shelved and almost forgotten. Until Agrawal, as a freshman in college, was shocked to find at her dorm’s dining hall, “lamb paired with a familiar old friend. I never imagined it as a condiment for meat,” she admits. “These moments of discomfort make me feel connected to my Indian-ness.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122115\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new.jpg\" alt=\"The mysterious green ingredient turned out to have been mint jelly, judged by Geetika Agrawal's parents to be the most interesting of all the jam flavors in the market.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122115\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The mysterious green ingredient turned out to have been mint jelly, judged by Geetika Agrawal's parents to be the most interesting of all the jam flavors in the market. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Many of the evening’s stories shared tales of triumph. Award-winning author \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/weta/myjourneyhome/andrew/index.html\">Andrew Lam\u003c/a> delivered an ode to the resilience of pho, the noodle soup with the aromatic broth from his native Vietnam, which has spread out in a seemingly unstoppable diaspora to every corner of the world. It’s a “global pho-nomenon,” quipped Lam, who came to America at the age of 11, at the end of the Vietnam War.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122118\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new.jpg\" alt=\"Award-winning author Andrew Lam delivered an ode to the resilience of pho, the noodle soup with the aromatic broth from his native Vietnam.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122118\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Award-winning author Andrew Lam delivered an ode to the resilience of pho, the noodle soup with the aromatic broth from his native Vietnam. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Vietnamese soup’s exact origins are somewhat clouded. But what’s clear is that its beef broth is perfumed with spices representing a mélange of foreign flavors, including Chinese and French ingredients, and is a testament to the resilience of its people. Pho, Lam informed us, is undoubtedly Vietnamese because it incorporates foreign influences – like its country, whose history includes being conquered by various foreign powers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122124\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new.jpg\" alt=\"Since expulsion from their homeland, Vietnamese people and their beloved soup have been flung across the globe.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122124\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Since expulsion from their homeland, Vietnamese people and their beloved soup have been flung across the globe. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>People adapt to survive but retain their distinctive Vietnamese identity, as does pho. Since expulsion from their homeland, Vietnamese people and their beloved soup have been flung across the globe. Pho can now be found in the furthest corners of the planet, from Antarctica to Ile de la Reunion, lovingly made by Vietnamese refugees who cannot imagine life without its comfort. The humble bowl of soup that represented their national treasure now appeals to their hope for posterity. While the people of Vietnam have scattered, Lam takes comfort in knowing something from his homeland has survived and the delectable aroma of broth with its pungent notes of cardamom, cinnamon, ginger and star anise is permeating the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122122\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new.jpg\" alt=\"Savanna Ferguson shared the story of immigrants, both human and vegetal; specifically how the humble potato saved and almost doomed Ireland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122122\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Savanna Ferguson shared the story of immigrants, both human and vegetal; specifically how the humble potato saved and almost doomed Ireland. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Savanna Ferguson shared the story of immigrants, both human and vegetal; specifically how the humble potato saved and almost doomed Ireland. Potatoes were not native to Ireland. The tuber, originally from Peru, was introduced to Ireland in the late 16\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century, at a time when food shortages were common. The potato quickly made itself at home in chilly Irish weather and rocky land. It was the perfect food: easy to grow, easy to harvest and easy to cook. And because it was almost nutritionally complete, the Irish populace thrived for generations. And then, in 1845, “potato blight” came to Ireland, its rot turning the tuber to mush. For five years, crops failed, killing one million people and forcing two million to emigrate. One million Irish immigrants came to the to U.S. to find refuge and changed our country forever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122121\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new.jpg\" alt=\"Savanna Ferguson telling her story No Known Substitute to the audience at The Swedish American Hall.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122121\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Savanna Ferguson telling her story \"No Known Substitute\" to the audience at The Swedish American Hall. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In these days of heated debate over immigration, it is instructive to recall how much Irish immigrants were hated, prohibited from working, and described as” less than human.” These phrases seems depressingly familiar. Today, 10% of our country (34 million Americans) can trace Irish roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122130\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"A conversation between Justin Phillips, food writer for the San Francisco Chronicle and Shani Jones, owner of Peaches Patties, a Jamaican food kiosk.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122130\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A conversation between Justin Phillips, food writer for the San Francisco Chronicle and Shani Jones, owner of Peaches Patties, a Jamaican food kiosk. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Next, we were treated to a conversation between Justin Phillips, food writer for the San Francisco Chronicle and Shani Jones, owner of Peaches Patties, a Jamaican food kiosk. They compared notes on their shared experiences and their reverse life trajectories: Phillips, a Black man, grew up in Alexandria, Virginia and recently moved to San Francisco, and Jones, a native San Franciscan, from a dwindling Black population, moved to Atlanta, Georgia to attend college at a HBCU (Historically Black Colleges and Universities) and returned home. They each related moments of cultural insensitivity in remarks from white people in both parts of the country such as, “You’re Black, but not Black-Black” or “You’re not like the rest of them!” Now that Jones has opened a kiosk to make and sell food inspired by her Jamaican mother, she has, in essence, opened herself up to even more offensive interactions, for example, being urged to speak with a Jamaican accent while serving her food. Their take-home-thought for the evening: there are culturally insensitive people everywhere. Phillips and Jones are two of only 50,000 Black residents in San Francisco, a city of 860,000. With these slim odds, Phillips cautioned the audience to take notice, “When you see two Black people talking about issues like this in public,” Phillips said, “It’s a unicorn moment.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122132\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new.jpg\" alt=\"Shani Jones has opened Peaches Patties, a kiosk to make and sell food inspired by her Jamaican mother.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122132\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shani Jones has opened Peaches Patties, a kiosk to make and sell food inspired by her Jamaican mother. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Other stories of refuge revealed tales of pain and loss. John Birdsall, an award-winning local writer, delivered a history lesson interwoven with personal travel tales exploring the refuge of queer safe spaces that exist around the world. He described how Berlin became the birthplace of queer safe space in the 1890s, when its bars and clubs flourished openly until the Weimer Republic came to power in the early 20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century. But when Berlin’s gay bars were closed down, Birdsall says, “the idea and the hope of refuge could not be extinguished.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122128\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new.jpg\" alt=\"John Birdsall, an award-winning local writer, delivered a history lesson interwoven with personal travel tales exploring the refuge of queer safe spaces that exist around the world.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122128\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">John Birdsall, an award-winning local writer, delivered a history lesson interwoven with personal travel tales exploring the refuge of queer safe spaces that exist around the world. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For Birdsall, his own travel stories “meant moving in a shadow world” of gay-owned B&B’s, frequenting bars and clubs in “gayberhoods” and queer enclaves – places that would supposedly shield their patrons from violence. But from the horrifying genocide of gays in Nazi Germany to the massacre at Pulse Night Club in 2016, it is clear that these supposedly protected zones of refuge cannot, in fact, promise safety.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122135\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new.jpg\" alt=\"The most powerful example of the connection between food and refuge came in film clips from an upcoming documentary called: Soufra: A Recipe from a Refugee Food Truck, presented by producer Trevor Hall.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122135\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The most powerful example of the connection between food and refuge came in film clips from an upcoming documentary called: Soufra: A Recipe from a Refugee Food Truck, presented by producer Trevor Hall. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The evening included dance and song performances plus short films interspersed between speakers. The most powerful example of the connection between food and refuge came in film clips from an upcoming documentary called: \u003cem>Soufra: A Recipe from a Refugee Food Truck\u003c/em>, presented by producer Trevor Hall. He described Burj el-Barajneh refugee camp outside Beirut, Lebanon, where 50,000 people are crowded into narrow alleys and seven-story buildings within a one square kilometer space. In clips from the film, we see women in colorful hijabs chopping vegetables, chatting, cooking and laughing. What is not immediately apparent is their status as “prisoners,” since they lack the financial and political means to leave the camp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122134\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new.jpg\" alt=\"In another clip, we meet Mariam al Shaar, an entrepreneur who was born and has lived her whole life in Burj el-Barajneh.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122134\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In another clip, we meet Mariam al Shaar, an entrepreneur who was born and has lived her whole life in Burj el-Barajneh. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In another clip, we meet Mariam al Shaar, an entrepreneur who was born and has lived her whole life in Burj el-Barajneh. Yet Al Shaar is determined to harness the energy, resourcefulness and creativity of the women of the camp through their food. She is a social entrepreneur with a vision and a plan to uplift the lives of the women through cooking and selling their food. Since the women come from various backgrounds, Palestinian, Syrian, Egyptian and Iraqi, the process includes them teaching each other classic dishes from their cultures. The story of Mariam al Shaar illustrates the power of food to bring people together, empower them and create refuge where there is none. This documentary feature film will be coming out in November.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Can food supply refuge to immigrants, refugees and those marginalized at home? Powerful stories at La Cocina's Voices from the Kitchen illuminate our human struggle for safety and belonging. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1509755724,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":15,"wordCount":1821},"headData":{"title":"Stories of Soup, Sandwiches and Spuds Illuminate the Subject of Refuge at La Cocina’s ‘Voices from the Kitchen’ | KQED","description":"Can food supply refuge to immigrants, refugees and those marginalized at home? Powerful stories at La Cocina's Voices from the Kitchen illuminate our human struggle for safety and belonging. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"121997 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=121997","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/10/27/stories-of-soup-sandwiches-and-spuds-illuminate-the-subject-of-refuge-at-la-cocinas-voices-from-the-kitchen/","disqusTitle":"Stories of Soup, Sandwiches and Spuds Illuminate the Subject of Refuge at La Cocina’s ‘Voices from the Kitchen’ ","source":"Politics, Activism, Food Safety","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/politics-activism-food-safety/","path":"/bayareabites/121997/stories-of-soup-sandwiches-and-spuds-illuminate-the-subject-of-refuge-at-la-cocinas-voices-from-the-kitchen","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>An unlikely pair of very American sandwiches, a Reuben and a PB&J, ushered in an evening of eloquently told tales illuminating many facets of \u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/storytellers/http:/voicesfromthekitchen.org/storytellers/\">Refuge\u003c/a> at The Swedish American Hall on October 19. \u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a>’s latest storytelling performance of \u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/\">F&B: Voices from the Kitchen\u003c/a>, featured impassioned words and searing images from more than a dozen writers, filmmakers, chefs and graduates of its incubator program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122108\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new.jpg\" alt=\"Geetika Agrawal, Senior Program Manager at La Cocina and Heena Patel, from Gujarat India, a La Cocina entrepreneur and founder of Rasoi.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122108\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8068-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Geetika Agrawal, Senior Program Manager at La Cocina, Reuben the sandwich, and Heena Patel, from Gujarat India, a La Cocina entrepreneur and founder of Rasoi. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To Heena Patel, an immigrant from Gujarat India who came to the U.S. 25 years ago, permanent refuge in America became possible thanks to a Reuben sandwich. She and her husband initially owned a flower shop and a liquor store. Even though she already worked 12 hours a day, when a neighbor inquired if she would manage his restaurant, she accepted, as it represented a pathway to citizenship. The only snag was that the menu of Hofbrau, the restaurant in question, consisted almost entirely of meat. And meat was something the vegetarian Patel had never even tasted. Nevertheless, this determined woman mastered the art of making the perfect hot corned beef, Swiss cheese and sauerkraut sandwich. On the proudest day of her life, when she became an American citizen, she told us she offered her thanks to “Reuben” who made it all possible. With support from La Cocina, she has now created her own business, Rasoi, cooking vegetarian Gujarati Indian dishes for the Ferry Building Farmers Market. But she dreams of a future food truck and restaurant; dreams, she admitted, that are full of stars (Michelin stars, that is).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sharing the stage with Patel was American-born Geetika Agrawal, Senior Program Manager at La Cocina, whose Indian immigrant parents supported her Americanization by sending her to school every day with a “real American lunch.” Her mother lovingly packed her a Capri Sun, fruit, a granola bar and a green peanut butter and jelly sandwich until the middle of third grade when someone made fun of her green sandwich. (The mysterious green ingredient turned out to have been mint jelly, judged by her parents to be the most interesting of all the jam flavors in the market). After third grade, this novel culinary combo was shelved and almost forgotten. Until Agrawal, as a freshman in college, was shocked to find at her dorm’s dining hall, “lamb paired with a familiar old friend. I never imagined it as a condiment for meat,” she admits. “These moments of discomfort make me feel connected to my Indian-ness.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122115\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new.jpg\" alt=\"The mysterious green ingredient turned out to have been mint jelly, judged by Geetika Agrawal's parents to be the most interesting of all the jam flavors in the market.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122115\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8060-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The mysterious green ingredient turned out to have been mint jelly, judged by Geetika Agrawal's parents to be the most interesting of all the jam flavors in the market. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Many of the evening’s stories shared tales of triumph. Award-winning author \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/weta/myjourneyhome/andrew/index.html\">Andrew Lam\u003c/a> delivered an ode to the resilience of pho, the noodle soup with the aromatic broth from his native Vietnam, which has spread out in a seemingly unstoppable diaspora to every corner of the world. It’s a “global pho-nomenon,” quipped Lam, who came to America at the age of 11, at the end of the Vietnam War.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122118\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new.jpg\" alt=\"Award-winning author Andrew Lam delivered an ode to the resilience of pho, the noodle soup with the aromatic broth from his native Vietnam.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122118\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8093-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Award-winning author Andrew Lam delivered an ode to the resilience of pho, the noodle soup with the aromatic broth from his native Vietnam. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Vietnamese soup’s exact origins are somewhat clouded. But what’s clear is that its beef broth is perfumed with spices representing a mélange of foreign flavors, including Chinese and French ingredients, and is a testament to the resilience of its people. Pho, Lam informed us, is undoubtedly Vietnamese because it incorporates foreign influences – like its country, whose history includes being conquered by various foreign powers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122124\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new.jpg\" alt=\"Since expulsion from their homeland, Vietnamese people and their beloved soup have been flung across the globe.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122124\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8116-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Since expulsion from their homeland, Vietnamese people and their beloved soup have been flung across the globe. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>People adapt to survive but retain their distinctive Vietnamese identity, as does pho. Since expulsion from their homeland, Vietnamese people and their beloved soup have been flung across the globe. Pho can now be found in the furthest corners of the planet, from Antarctica to Ile de la Reunion, lovingly made by Vietnamese refugees who cannot imagine life without its comfort. The humble bowl of soup that represented their national treasure now appeals to their hope for posterity. While the people of Vietnam have scattered, Lam takes comfort in knowing something from his homeland has survived and the delectable aroma of broth with its pungent notes of cardamom, cinnamon, ginger and star anise is permeating the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122122\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new.jpg\" alt=\"Savanna Ferguson shared the story of immigrants, both human and vegetal; specifically how the humble potato saved and almost doomed Ireland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122122\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8194-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Savanna Ferguson shared the story of immigrants, both human and vegetal; specifically how the humble potato saved and almost doomed Ireland. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Savanna Ferguson shared the story of immigrants, both human and vegetal; specifically how the humble potato saved and almost doomed Ireland. Potatoes were not native to Ireland. The tuber, originally from Peru, was introduced to Ireland in the late 16\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century, at a time when food shortages were common. The potato quickly made itself at home in chilly Irish weather and rocky land. It was the perfect food: easy to grow, easy to harvest and easy to cook. And because it was almost nutritionally complete, the Irish populace thrived for generations. And then, in 1845, “potato blight” came to Ireland, its rot turning the tuber to mush. For five years, crops failed, killing one million people and forcing two million to emigrate. One million Irish immigrants came to the to U.S. to find refuge and changed our country forever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122121\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new.jpg\" alt=\"Savanna Ferguson telling her story No Known Substitute to the audience at The Swedish American Hall.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122121\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8203-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Savanna Ferguson telling her story \"No Known Substitute\" to the audience at The Swedish American Hall. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In these days of heated debate over immigration, it is instructive to recall how much Irish immigrants were hated, prohibited from working, and described as” less than human.” These phrases seems depressingly familiar. Today, 10% of our country (34 million Americans) can trace Irish roots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122130\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"A conversation between Justin Phillips, food writer for the San Francisco Chronicle and Shani Jones, owner of Peaches Patties, a Jamaican food kiosk.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122130\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8221-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A conversation between Justin Phillips, food writer for the San Francisco Chronicle and Shani Jones, owner of Peaches Patties, a Jamaican food kiosk. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Next, we were treated to a conversation between Justin Phillips, food writer for the San Francisco Chronicle and Shani Jones, owner of Peaches Patties, a Jamaican food kiosk. They compared notes on their shared experiences and their reverse life trajectories: Phillips, a Black man, grew up in Alexandria, Virginia and recently moved to San Francisco, and Jones, a native San Franciscan, from a dwindling Black population, moved to Atlanta, Georgia to attend college at a HBCU (Historically Black Colleges and Universities) and returned home. They each related moments of cultural insensitivity in remarks from white people in both parts of the country such as, “You’re Black, but not Black-Black” or “You’re not like the rest of them!” Now that Jones has opened a kiosk to make and sell food inspired by her Jamaican mother, she has, in essence, opened herself up to even more offensive interactions, for example, being urged to speak with a Jamaican accent while serving her food. Their take-home-thought for the evening: there are culturally insensitive people everywhere. Phillips and Jones are two of only 50,000 Black residents in San Francisco, a city of 860,000. With these slim odds, Phillips cautioned the audience to take notice, “When you see two Black people talking about issues like this in public,” Phillips said, “It’s a unicorn moment.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122132\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new.jpg\" alt=\"Shani Jones has opened Peaches Patties, a kiosk to make and sell food inspired by her Jamaican mother.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122132\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8237-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shani Jones has opened Peaches Patties, a kiosk to make and sell food inspired by her Jamaican mother. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Other stories of refuge revealed tales of pain and loss. John Birdsall, an award-winning local writer, delivered a history lesson interwoven with personal travel tales exploring the refuge of queer safe spaces that exist around the world. He described how Berlin became the birthplace of queer safe space in the 1890s, when its bars and clubs flourished openly until the Weimer Republic came to power in the early 20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> century. But when Berlin’s gay bars were closed down, Birdsall says, “the idea and the hope of refuge could not be extinguished.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122128\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new.jpg\" alt=\"John Birdsall, an award-winning local writer, delivered a history lesson interwoven with personal travel tales exploring the refuge of queer safe spaces that exist around the world.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122128\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8272-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">John Birdsall, an award-winning local writer, delivered a history lesson interwoven with personal travel tales exploring the refuge of queer safe spaces that exist around the world. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For Birdsall, his own travel stories “meant moving in a shadow world” of gay-owned B&B’s, frequenting bars and clubs in “gayberhoods” and queer enclaves – places that would supposedly shield their patrons from violence. But from the horrifying genocide of gays in Nazi Germany to the massacre at Pulse Night Club in 2016, it is clear that these supposedly protected zones of refuge cannot, in fact, promise safety.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122135\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new.jpg\" alt=\"The most powerful example of the connection between food and refuge came in film clips from an upcoming documentary called: Soufra: A Recipe from a Refugee Food Truck, presented by producer Trevor Hall.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122135\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8289-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The most powerful example of the connection between food and refuge came in film clips from an upcoming documentary called: Soufra: A Recipe from a Refugee Food Truck, presented by producer Trevor Hall. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The evening included dance and song performances plus short films interspersed between speakers. The most powerful example of the connection between food and refuge came in film clips from an upcoming documentary called: \u003cem>Soufra: A Recipe from a Refugee Food Truck\u003c/em>, presented by producer Trevor Hall. He described Burj el-Barajneh refugee camp outside Beirut, Lebanon, where 50,000 people are crowded into narrow alleys and seven-story buildings within a one square kilometer space. In clips from the film, we see women in colorful hijabs chopping vegetables, chatting, cooking and laughing. What is not immediately apparent is their status as “prisoners,” since they lack the financial and political means to leave the camp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122134\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new.jpg\" alt=\"In another clip, we meet Mariam al Shaar, an entrepreneur who was born and has lived her whole life in Burj el-Barajneh.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-122134\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/10/IMG_8322-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In another clip, we meet Mariam al Shaar, an entrepreneur who was born and has lived her whole life in Burj el-Barajneh. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In another clip, we meet Mariam al Shaar, an entrepreneur who was born and has lived her whole life in Burj el-Barajneh. Yet Al Shaar is determined to harness the energy, resourcefulness and creativity of the women of the camp through their food. She is a social entrepreneur with a vision and a plan to uplift the lives of the women through cooking and selling their food. Since the women come from various backgrounds, Palestinian, Syrian, Egyptian and Iraqi, the process includes them teaching each other classic dishes from their cultures. The story of Mariam al Shaar illustrates the power of food to bring people together, empower them and create refuge where there is none. This documentary feature film will be coming out in November.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/121997/stories-of-soup-sandwiches-and-spuds-illuminate-the-subject-of-refuge-at-la-cocinas-voices-from-the-kitchen","authors":["5283","5014"],"categories":["bayareabites_50","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_295","bayareabites_15999","bayareabites_10751"],"featImg":"bayareabites_122106","label":"source_bayareabites_121997"},"bayareabites_116718":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_116718","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"116718","score":null,"sort":[1492102241000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"la-cocinas-voices-from-the-kitchen-speak-passionately-on-race","title":"La Cocina's 'Voices from the Kitchen' Speak Passionately on Race","publishDate":1492102241,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116767\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1050px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116767\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd-.jpg\" alt=\"A full house of engaged audience members learn from Voices from the Kitchen.\" width=\"1050\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd-.jpg 1050w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1050px) 100vw, 1050px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A full house of engaged audience members learn from Voices from the Kitchen. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/JenBaxterSF/\">@JenBaxterSF\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/\" target=\"_blank\">F&B: Voices from the Kitchen\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/\" target=\"_blank\">La Cocina\u003c/a>’s latest storytelling performance on April 7 at The Swedish American Hall featured the impassioned words of more than a dozen chefs, poets, writers, historians and activists on the topic of \u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/storytellers-1-1/\">\u003cstrong>Race\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. The evening started with food and drinks from both well-known chefs and a couple of graduates from La Cocina’s Incubator program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Some highlights from the two-hour performance:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116768\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116768\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"People’s Kitchen Collective: Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson inspired the crowd with their words and songs.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1384\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-160x115.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-800x577.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-768x554.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-1020x735.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-1180x851.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-960x692.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-240x173.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-375x270.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-520x375.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">People’s Kitchen Collective: Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson inspired the crowd with their words and songs. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Co-founders of the \u003ca href=\"http://peopleskitchencollective.com/\">People’s Kitchen Collective\u003c/a> (PKC) Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson entered from the audience, while Jackson sang in a deep throaty voice, “We who believe in freedom cannot rest…until it’s found.” Then all three alternated with a barrage of wisdom: “We have so much fucking faith in the power of food to fix everything.” “For centuries, food has been a weapon...keeping us stuffed and starved.” “Food deserts are not a naturally occurring phenomenon.” “Food is a strategy for resistance.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116769\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116769\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"The PKC shared the story of the Black Panther Party's hugely successful Free Breakfast Program.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1502\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-160x125.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-800x626.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-768x601.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-1020x798.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-1180x923.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-960x751.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-240x188.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-375x293.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-520x407.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The PKC shared the story of the Black Panther Party's hugely successful Free Breakfast Program. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As inspiration, they described the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/independentlens/videos/free-breakfast-program/\">Black Panther Party’s Free Breakfast for School Children program\u003c/a> that began in Oakland in 1969 and in a few years fed over 100,000 children nationwide. It was so successful that it inspired fear in J. Edgar Hoover, the head of the FBI, who called it “the most dangerous domestic threat to national security.” The PKC explained that while the state was trying to keep food out of the hands of black and brown children, the Black Panther Party viewed breakfast as an active tool of resistance. The breakfast program was revolutionary. And now there are free breakfast and lunch programs in schools. Why don't they come with a history lesson? they ask. Why don’t we teach children the roots of that meal?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The three co-founders of the PKC then challenged the so-called “Farm to Table” movement to acknowledge that food does not magically make it from the farm to the table without the toil of people in the middle. It would be more accurately termed “Farm to Kitchen to Table.” And why, they asked, should this food be enjoyed only in restaurants? The meal can’t end at the table. It should be accessible to all people, so a better motto would be “Farm to Kitchen to Table to Streets.” And they exhorted the audience to take this message out on the streets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116770\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116770\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW.jpg\" alt='Bonnie Tsui showed some of the offensive names used for the supposedly \"Asian salad\" that is a mainstay on restaurant menus all over the country.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1607\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-160x134.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-800x670.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-768x643.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-1020x854.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-1180x988.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-960x804.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-240x201.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-375x314.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-520x435.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bonnie Tsui showed some of the offensive names used for the supposedly \"Asian salad\" that is a mainstay on restaurant menus all over the country. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Journalist \u003ca href=\"http://www.bonnietsui.com/\">Bonnie Tsui\u003c/a> shared her quest to solve “the curious case of the Asian salad,” a dish cooked up by non-Asians, which is so common on a swath of American restaurant menus that we don’t even question its Asian-ness. The mystery stems from its raw vegetable ingredients, which are not traditionally served in China. In the popular imagination, adding soy sauce or sesame oil somehow transforms it to being “Asian.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Tsui’s issue with this ubiquitous dish is less with its supposedly “Asian” ingredients and more with the variety of offensive names with which it is labeled at places like TGIFridays, Cheesecake Factory, Rainforest Café, and Applebee's. She showed slides of menus with names like “Asian Emperor salad,” “Oriental chop chop,” “Mr. Mao’s” and “secret Asian man.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though the subject is just salad, Tsui views the use of broad terms to reference an entire continent as stereotypical. The problem is that the words are a blind spot for white people who don’t consider themselves racist. And even with a bowl of salad, words do matter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116773\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116773\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW.jpg\" alt='Three members of the woman-led collaborative of people of color, Nourish/Resist, who spoke about micro-aggressions, macro-impact, \"staying woke\" and creating safe spaces.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1285\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-800x535.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-768x514.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-1020x683.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-1180x790.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-960x643.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-240x161.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-375x251.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-520x348.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Members of the woman-led collaborative of people of color, Nourish/Resist, urged people to disrupt micro-aggressions. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Three members of the \u003ca href=\"https://nourishresist.org/\">woman-led collaborative\u003c/a> of people of color, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/04/04/fighting-trump-one-delicious-meal-at-a-time-with-nourishresist/\">Nourish/Resist\u003c/a>, encouraged audience members to check their language and privilege, \"stay woke\" and create safe spaces for stories of struggle and survival. They use food as a tool for resistance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116765\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 467px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116765\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2.jpg\" alt=\"Culinary historian Michael Twitty shares stories from his childhood that ultimately led him to focus on preparing, preserving and promoting African American foodways.\" width=\"467\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2.jpg 467w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2-375x562.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 467px) 100vw, 467px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Culinary historian Michael Twitty shares stories from his childhood that ultimately led him to focus on preparing, preserving and promoting African American foodways. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/JenBaxterSF/\">@JenBaxterSF\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Culinary historian Michael Twitty, author of the award-winning blog \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/\">Afroculinaria\u003c/a>, recounted that as a kid, he hated soul food and hated being black, even though he was “the great-grandson of Jim Crow people.” If he didn’t like The Wiz, of course, he hated collard greens and chitterlings. He called okra “an instrument of Black medieval torture” and longed for fast food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until one day when his grandmother said, “we’re gonna make some lemonade” and started singing a song “lemonade, lemonade, made in the shade, stirred with a spade…” When he asked her about the song she told him it was a slave song passed down from her great-grandfather who was born into slavery. That piqued his curiosity and once he started asking questions, “the kitchen was filled with ancestors and I got to meet them.” He also learned the stories behind the iconic dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Chitterlings was the story of using the whole animal. People who had nothing could waste nothing. Collard greens represented strength.” When his grandmother said “we carried okra seeds in our hair,” he understood, that while seeds may not have literally been carried in hair, “they represent the seeds for everything we had carried in our heads and you couldn’t take that away from us.” So in teaching him about food, his grandmother taught him his own black history. As Twitty put it, “Teaching me not to hate my soul, but how to love it. “\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116771\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116771\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Saru Jayaraman of ROC exhorts the crowd to take action to end low wages, unfair practices and segregation in the restaurant industry.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"730\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-160x117.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-800x584.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-768x561.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-960x701.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-240x175.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-375x274.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-520x380.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Saru Jayaraman of ROC exhorts the crowd to take action to end low wages, unfair practices and segregation in the restaurant industry. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In her talk, entitled \"On Ending Jim Crow In The Bay Area Restaurant Industry,\" Saru Jayaraman of \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/\">ROC United\u003c/a> (Restaurant Opportunities Centers United) discussed her organization’s goal to improve wages and working conditions for the nation’s 12 million restaurant workers. She reminded the audience that while white men can earn $150,000/year as fine dining servers or bartenders, the majority of food service workers are the lowest paid of all employees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jayaraman also shared the shocking news that numerous surveys in cities across the U.S. have found that the largest race-based wage gap in the country is found right here in the Bay Area, where there is a $5.50/hour gap between white workers and workers of color. “We are better than this,\" she told the audience. “We think we are progressive, but we are not and we participate in segregation every time we eat out. Each of us has to take a part in changing the way we eat out.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then she introduced noted chef, restaurateur and author \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_Patterson_(chef)\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a>, who is spearheading a project with other chefs to desegregate their kitchens and collaborate on the \u003ca href=\"http://www.eastbayexpress.com/WhatTheFork/archives/2016/02/16/a-nonprofit-restaurant-in-east-oakland-will-aim-to-prioritize-people-over-profits\">upcoming COLORS restaurant\u003c/a> in Oakland. Located near the Fruitvale BART station, it will train hundred of workers of color. Patterson wants to create a model for standardizing hiring and promotions because “as long as there is implicit bias, you can train all the workers in the world but they will never get hired.” His goal is to change the face of fine dining “until fine dining does not resemble Trump's America.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1050px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116766\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2.jpg\" alt=\"Stephanie Fields shares her stories of growing up in the rural South and discovering La Cocina, where she got support for her business Sugarfoot.\" width=\"1050\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2.jpg 1050w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1050px) 100vw, 1050px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stephanie Fields shares her stories of growing up in the rural South and discovering La Cocina, where she got support for her business Sugarfoot. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/JenBaxterSF/\">@JenBaxterSF\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One of the most compelling stories of the evening was delivered by Stephanie Fields, of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sugarfootkitchen.com\">Sugarfoot Kitchen\u003c/a>, a “Southern comfort catering company,” and a graduate of La Cocina. Her pepper jelly turkey meatballs were a standout at the pre-show food tasting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fields described her hometown of Henderson, North Carolina in the rural South, a place where the working poor are disillusioned and angry and 36% of residents live in poverty. In a town where 60% of the population is Black, she told us, “You can still call up the KKK for your daily dose of hate from Grand Wizard Mr. Bobbit (and she played his offensive phone recording to prove it). While her family often used the n-word in anger, Fields grew up with friends from both cultures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116774\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116774\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Stephanie Fields' moist and flavorful pepper turkey meatballs were a crowd pleaser.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stephanie Fields' moist and flavorful pepper turkey meatballs were a crowd pleaser. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She started her business through La Cocina’s incubator program in 2013 and plans to open her Southern restaurant in San Francisco’s Portola district this fall. But Fields confessed that a crisis of conscience almost caused her to close Sugarfoot just one month after she opened it. It happened when she read an open letter that Michael Twitty penned to \u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/06/19/paula-deen-racist-comments-n-word-caught-on-video_n_3467287.html\">Paula Deen after the uproar\u003c/a> about her use of racist comments. He wrote, “We are surrounded by culinary injustice where some Southerners take credit for things that enslaved Africans and their descendants played key roles in disseminating.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fields stated, “I had to make a choice not to be “some southerner.” After reading Twitty’s words, she realized that there would be no Southern food without slavery and wondered if she could still claim the food she grew up on -- the okra, collard greens and cheese grits -- as her own. After doing research and talking to friends across race and gender lines, she decided, “I am Southern and I had to eat something.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She also realized: “I cannot undo the pain, undo the shame and undo the history, but what I can do is acknowledge where this food comes from and I can be grateful and be kind.” “Empathy,” she added, “is being a member of a tribe that isn’t yours, but still is.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The next \u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/\">F&B: Voices from the Kitchen\u003c/a> event will be on October 19 with the theme: \u003cstrong>Refuge\u003c/strong>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"La Cocina’s stirring storytelling performance on Race had writers, historians and activists discussing the connection between food and resistance. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1492474573,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":23,"wordCount":1821},"headData":{"title":"La Cocina's 'Voices from the Kitchen' Speak Passionately on Race | KQED","description":"La Cocina’s stirring storytelling performance on Race had writers, historians and activists discussing the connection between food and resistance. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"116718 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=116718","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/04/13/la-cocinas-voices-from-the-kitchen-speak-passionately-on-race/","disqusTitle":"La Cocina's 'Voices from the Kitchen' Speak Passionately on Race","source":"Politics & Activism","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/politics-activism-food-safety/","path":"/bayareabites/116718/la-cocinas-voices-from-the-kitchen-speak-passionately-on-race","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116767\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1050px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116767\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd-.jpg\" alt=\"A full house of engaged audience members learn from Voices from the Kitchen.\" width=\"1050\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd-.jpg 1050w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-the-crowd--520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1050px) 100vw, 1050px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A full house of engaged audience members learn from Voices from the Kitchen. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/JenBaxterSF/\">@JenBaxterSF\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/\" target=\"_blank\">F&B: Voices from the Kitchen\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/\" target=\"_blank\">La Cocina\u003c/a>’s latest storytelling performance on April 7 at The Swedish American Hall featured the impassioned words of more than a dozen chefs, poets, writers, historians and activists on the topic of \u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/storytellers-1-1/\">\u003cstrong>Race\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>. The evening started with food and drinks from both well-known chefs and a couple of graduates from La Cocina’s Incubator program.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Some highlights from the two-hour performance:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116768\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116768\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"People’s Kitchen Collective: Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson inspired the crowd with their words and songs.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1384\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-160x115.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-800x577.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-768x554.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-1020x735.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-1180x851.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-960x692.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-240x173.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-375x270.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/1-PKC-NEW-520x375.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">People’s Kitchen Collective: Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson inspired the crowd with their words and songs. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Co-founders of the \u003ca href=\"http://peopleskitchencollective.com/\">People’s Kitchen Collective\u003c/a> (PKC) Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson entered from the audience, while Jackson sang in a deep throaty voice, “We who believe in freedom cannot rest…until it’s found.” Then all three alternated with a barrage of wisdom: “We have so much fucking faith in the power of food to fix everything.” “For centuries, food has been a weapon...keeping us stuffed and starved.” “Food deserts are not a naturally occurring phenomenon.” “Food is a strategy for resistance.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116769\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116769\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"The PKC shared the story of the Black Panther Party's hugely successful Free Breakfast Program.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1502\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-160x125.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-800x626.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-768x601.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-1020x798.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-1180x923.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-960x751.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-240x188.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-375x293.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/2-PKC-BPP-NEW-520x407.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The PKC shared the story of the Black Panther Party's hugely successful Free Breakfast Program. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As inspiration, they described the \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/independentlens/videos/free-breakfast-program/\">Black Panther Party’s Free Breakfast for School Children program\u003c/a> that began in Oakland in 1969 and in a few years fed over 100,000 children nationwide. It was so successful that it inspired fear in J. Edgar Hoover, the head of the FBI, who called it “the most dangerous domestic threat to national security.” The PKC explained that while the state was trying to keep food out of the hands of black and brown children, the Black Panther Party viewed breakfast as an active tool of resistance. The breakfast program was revolutionary. And now there are free breakfast and lunch programs in schools. Why don't they come with a history lesson? they ask. Why don’t we teach children the roots of that meal?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The three co-founders of the PKC then challenged the so-called “Farm to Table” movement to acknowledge that food does not magically make it from the farm to the table without the toil of people in the middle. It would be more accurately termed “Farm to Kitchen to Table.” And why, they asked, should this food be enjoyed only in restaurants? The meal can’t end at the table. It should be accessible to all people, so a better motto would be “Farm to Kitchen to Table to Streets.” And they exhorted the audience to take this message out on the streets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116770\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116770\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW.jpg\" alt='Bonnie Tsui showed some of the offensive names used for the supposedly \"Asian salad\" that is a mainstay on restaurant menus all over the country.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1607\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-160x134.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-800x670.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-768x643.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-1020x854.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-1180x988.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-960x804.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-240x201.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-375x314.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/3-Asian-salad-NEW-520x435.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bonnie Tsui showed some of the offensive names used for the supposedly \"Asian salad\" that is a mainstay on restaurant menus all over the country. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Journalist \u003ca href=\"http://www.bonnietsui.com/\">Bonnie Tsui\u003c/a> shared her quest to solve “the curious case of the Asian salad,” a dish cooked up by non-Asians, which is so common on a swath of American restaurant menus that we don’t even question its Asian-ness. The mystery stems from its raw vegetable ingredients, which are not traditionally served in China. In the popular imagination, adding soy sauce or sesame oil somehow transforms it to being “Asian.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Tsui’s issue with this ubiquitous dish is less with its supposedly “Asian” ingredients and more with the variety of offensive names with which it is labeled at places like TGIFridays, Cheesecake Factory, Rainforest Café, and Applebee's. She showed slides of menus with names like “Asian Emperor salad,” “Oriental chop chop,” “Mr. Mao’s” and “secret Asian man.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though the subject is just salad, Tsui views the use of broad terms to reference an entire continent as stereotypical. The problem is that the words are a blind spot for white people who don’t consider themselves racist. And even with a bowl of salad, words do matter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116773\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116773\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW.jpg\" alt='Three members of the woman-led collaborative of people of color, Nourish/Resist, who spoke about micro-aggressions, macro-impact, \"staying woke\" and creating safe spaces.' width=\"1920\" height=\"1285\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-800x535.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-768x514.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-1020x683.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-1180x790.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-960x643.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-240x161.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-375x251.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/nourish-resist-NEW-520x348.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Members of the woman-led collaborative of people of color, Nourish/Resist, urged people to disrupt micro-aggressions. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Three members of the \u003ca href=\"https://nourishresist.org/\">woman-led collaborative\u003c/a> of people of color, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/04/04/fighting-trump-one-delicious-meal-at-a-time-with-nourishresist/\">Nourish/Resist\u003c/a>, encouraged audience members to check their language and privilege, \"stay woke\" and create safe spaces for stories of struggle and survival. They use food as a tool for resistance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116765\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 467px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116765\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2.jpg\" alt=\"Culinary historian Michael Twitty shares stories from his childhood that ultimately led him to focus on preparing, preserving and promoting African American foodways.\" width=\"467\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2.jpg 467w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2-240x360.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Michael-Twitty-2-375x562.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 467px) 100vw, 467px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Culinary historian Michael Twitty shares stories from his childhood that ultimately led him to focus on preparing, preserving and promoting African American foodways. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/JenBaxterSF/\">@JenBaxterSF\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Culinary historian Michael Twitty, author of the award-winning blog \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/\">Afroculinaria\u003c/a>, recounted that as a kid, he hated soul food and hated being black, even though he was “the great-grandson of Jim Crow people.” If he didn’t like The Wiz, of course, he hated collard greens and chitterlings. He called okra “an instrument of Black medieval torture” and longed for fast food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Until one day when his grandmother said, “we’re gonna make some lemonade” and started singing a song “lemonade, lemonade, made in the shade, stirred with a spade…” When he asked her about the song she told him it was a slave song passed down from her great-grandfather who was born into slavery. That piqued his curiosity and once he started asking questions, “the kitchen was filled with ancestors and I got to meet them.” He also learned the stories behind the iconic dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Chitterlings was the story of using the whole animal. People who had nothing could waste nothing. Collard greens represented strength.” When his grandmother said “we carried okra seeds in our hair,” he understood, that while seeds may not have literally been carried in hair, “they represent the seeds for everything we had carried in our heads and you couldn’t take that away from us.” So in teaching him about food, his grandmother taught him his own black history. As Twitty put it, “Teaching me not to hate my soul, but how to love it. “\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116771\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116771\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Saru Jayaraman of ROC exhorts the crowd to take action to end low wages, unfair practices and segregation in the restaurant industry.\" width=\"1000\" height=\"730\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW.jpg 1000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-160x117.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-800x584.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-768x561.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-960x701.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-240x175.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-375x274.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/5-Saru-NEW-520x380.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Saru Jayaraman of ROC exhorts the crowd to take action to end low wages, unfair practices and segregation in the restaurant industry. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In her talk, entitled \"On Ending Jim Crow In The Bay Area Restaurant Industry,\" Saru Jayaraman of \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/\">ROC United\u003c/a> (Restaurant Opportunities Centers United) discussed her organization’s goal to improve wages and working conditions for the nation’s 12 million restaurant workers. She reminded the audience that while white men can earn $150,000/year as fine dining servers or bartenders, the majority of food service workers are the lowest paid of all employees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jayaraman also shared the shocking news that numerous surveys in cities across the U.S. have found that the largest race-based wage gap in the country is found right here in the Bay Area, where there is a $5.50/hour gap between white workers and workers of color. “We are better than this,\" she told the audience. “We think we are progressive, but we are not and we participate in segregation every time we eat out. Each of us has to take a part in changing the way we eat out.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then she introduced noted chef, restaurateur and author \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_Patterson_(chef)\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a>, who is spearheading a project with other chefs to desegregate their kitchens and collaborate on the \u003ca href=\"http://www.eastbayexpress.com/WhatTheFork/archives/2016/02/16/a-nonprofit-restaurant-in-east-oakland-will-aim-to-prioritize-people-over-profits\">upcoming COLORS restaurant\u003c/a> in Oakland. Located near the Fruitvale BART station, it will train hundred of workers of color. Patterson wants to create a model for standardizing hiring and promotions because “as long as there is implicit bias, you can train all the workers in the world but they will never get hired.” His goal is to change the face of fine dining “until fine dining does not resemble Trump's America.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1050px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116766\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2.jpg\" alt=\"Stephanie Fields shares her stories of growing up in the rural South and discovering La Cocina, where she got support for her business Sugarfoot.\" width=\"1050\" height=\"700\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2.jpg 1050w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/@JenBaxterSF-Sugarfoot-2-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1050px) 100vw, 1050px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stephanie Fields shares her stories of growing up in the rural South and discovering La Cocina, where she got support for her business Sugarfoot. \u003ccite>(\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/JenBaxterSF/\">@JenBaxterSF\u003c/a>)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>One of the most compelling stories of the evening was delivered by Stephanie Fields, of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sugarfootkitchen.com\">Sugarfoot Kitchen\u003c/a>, a “Southern comfort catering company,” and a graduate of La Cocina. Her pepper jelly turkey meatballs were a standout at the pre-show food tasting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fields described her hometown of Henderson, North Carolina in the rural South, a place where the working poor are disillusioned and angry and 36% of residents live in poverty. In a town where 60% of the population is Black, she told us, “You can still call up the KKK for your daily dose of hate from Grand Wizard Mr. Bobbit (and she played his offensive phone recording to prove it). While her family often used the n-word in anger, Fields grew up with friends from both cultures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_116774\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-116774\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Stephanie Fields' moist and flavorful pepper turkey meatballs were a crowd pleaser.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/04/turkey-meatballs-NEW-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stephanie Fields' moist and flavorful pepper turkey meatballs were a crowd pleaser. \u003ccite>(Anna Mindess)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She started her business through La Cocina’s incubator program in 2013 and plans to open her Southern restaurant in San Francisco’s Portola district this fall. But Fields confessed that a crisis of conscience almost caused her to close Sugarfoot just one month after she opened it. It happened when she read an open letter that Michael Twitty penned to \u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/06/19/paula-deen-racist-comments-n-word-caught-on-video_n_3467287.html\">Paula Deen after the uproar\u003c/a> about her use of racist comments. He wrote, “We are surrounded by culinary injustice where some Southerners take credit for things that enslaved Africans and their descendants played key roles in disseminating.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fields stated, “I had to make a choice not to be “some southerner.” After reading Twitty’s words, she realized that there would be no Southern food without slavery and wondered if she could still claim the food she grew up on -- the okra, collard greens and cheese grits -- as her own. After doing research and talking to friends across race and gender lines, she decided, “I am Southern and I had to eat something.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She also realized: “I cannot undo the pain, undo the shame and undo the history, but what I can do is acknowledge where this food comes from and I can be grateful and be kind.” “Empathy,” she added, “is being a member of a tribe that isn’t yours, but still is.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The next \u003ca href=\"http://voicesfromthekitchen.org/\">F&B: Voices from the Kitchen\u003c/a> event will be on October 19 with the theme: \u003cstrong>Refuge\u003c/strong>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/116718/la-cocinas-voices-from-the-kitchen-speak-passionately-on-race","authors":["5283"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_2407","bayareabites_1865","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_295","bayareabites_15821","bayareabites_15810","bayareabites_15822","bayareabites_14803","bayareabites_11424"],"featImg":"bayareabites_116768","label":"source_bayareabites_116718"},"bayareabites_93967":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_93967","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"93967","score":null,"sort":[1426543369000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"womens-history-month-women-who-are-transforming-our-food-system","title":"Women's History Month: Women Who are Transforming Our Food System","publishDate":1426543369,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93974\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 610px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/La_Cocina_gala_Drew-Altizer.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/La_Cocina_gala_Drew-Altizer.jpg\" alt=\"La Cocina gala. Photo: Drew Altizer Photography\" width=\"610\" height=\"407\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93974\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/La_Cocina_gala_Drew-Altizer.jpg 610w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/La_Cocina_gala_Drew-Altizer-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/La_Cocina_gala_Drew-Altizer-320x214.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 610px) 100vw, 610px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Cocina gala. Photo: Drew Altizer Photography\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>By Brie Mazurek, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/article/miso-mealworms-women-cook-success\" target=\"_blank\">CUESA\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Women’s History Month, CUESA is spotlighting women who are transforming our food system. This week we take you behind the scenes at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\" target=\"_blank\">La Cocina\u003c/a>, a nonprofit food business incubator for low-income women, now in its 10th year. CUESA supports La Cocina by featuring a different entrepreneur at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market each month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Mariko Grady joined La Cocina’s incubator kitchen three years ago, the thought of owning her own business was little more than a dream. Following the earthquake, tsunami, and nuclear disaster that devastated Japan in 2011, she had started selling her homemade misos and kojis to friends to raise money to donate to victims in her home country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grady found that there was a hunger for her handcrafted ferments even after she completed her fundraising campaign. She came to La Cocina to formalize her cottage food operation, so she could share her passion for the healthy foods of Japan with a wider American audience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“La Cocina gave me many chances to think about what I wanted to do,” says Grady, now the owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.aedansf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Aedan Fermented Foods\u003c/a>. “At that time, I had no idea. I just knew I wanted to do a business, and I wanted a commercial kitchen and insurance.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>A Fighting Chance\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>The number of women- and minority-owned businesses in the US is growing fast. According to the Census Bureau’s 2007 Survey of Business Owners, women-owned businesses account for \u003ca href=\"https://www.census.gov/econ/sbo/getsof.html?07women\" target=\"_blank\">28.7%\u003c/a> of all businesses, and minority businesses make up \u003ca href=\"https://www.census.gov/econ/sbo/getsof.html?07cosum\" target=\"_blank\">21.3%\u003c/a> of the total. Minority business ownership increased at \u003ca href=\"https://www.census.gov/newsroom/releases/archives/economic_census/cb10-107.html\" target=\"_blank\">twice the national rate\u003c/a> between 2002 and 2007.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2005, La Cocina was founded in San Francisco’s Mission District to meet a growing need for support of women-owned food businesses, specifically low-income women from immigrant communities and communities of color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93975\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/leticia_landa.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/leticia_landa.jpg\" alt=\"Leticia Landa. Photo: La Cocina\" width=\"250\" height=\"293\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93975\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Leticia Landa. Photo: La Cocina\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“That focus is a reflection of the unfortunate reality of our economy, particularly in our food system,” says La Cocina Deputy Director Leticia Landa. “If you look around the city and country, the vast majority of people in ownership positions are men.” Beyond the economic and bureaucratic hurdles of opening a licensed food business, women may face sexist stereotypes about their physical strength and ability in the workplace. For some, family responsibilities can create additional challenges, especially in an industry where working late nights and weekends is often part of the norm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the 1990s, the \u003ca href=\"http://oaklandlocal.com/2014/04/womens-initiative-for-self-employment-closes-its-doors/\" target=\"_blank\">now-defunct Women’s Initiative for Self-Employment\u003c/a>, a training program for women entrepreneurs, found that many women writing food business plans were not launching their businesses. To find out why, the organization conducted a study and found that the bottleneck was affordable kitchen spaces. “It was too expensive to get permitted, so people were remaining informal,” says Landa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With help from the Women’s Initiative, the Women’s Foundation of California, and a generous donor, a nonprofit was formed to provide licensed commercial cooking space, business training, and marketing support for these innovative fledgling businesses. La Cocina (literally “the kitchen” in Spanish) currently works with 37 entrepreneurs (34 of which are women) and has launched 19 businesses over the last 10 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We don’t create entrepreneurs,” says Landa. “People come to us, and they already have incredible products, and they’re already talented at selling them. It’s a matter of providing resources.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>From Concept to Market\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Entry into La Cocina’s incubator is limited and highly competitive. After attending an orientation, applicants must submit a comprehensive business plan and application detailing their vision, experience, and dedication.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Promising candidates are interviewed and their products are taste-tested, one of the most important parts of the application process. “We want to find people who are making something unique and have a chance to survive in a very competitive landscape,” says Landa. “We care a lot about product quality and business viability.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once accepted, participants start a six- to eight-month pre-incubation curriculum, which covers topics like marketing, product development, operations, and finances. They then begin formal incubation, which can take several years. Entrepreneurs are matched with La Cocina graduates and other business owners in the community to serve as mentors, and graphic designers to help them develop their brand. They test products and build a following through direct sales, retail, or catering. Within the first couple years, the majority of entrepreneurs hire at least two people to help them in their kitchen, according to Landa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During their training, participants have the opportunity to sell their products directly to customers at La Cocina events like the annual \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/San-Francisco-Street-Food-Festival-to-live-on-at-6127937.php\" target=\"_blank\">San Francisco Street Food Festival\u003c/a> and a kiosk inside the Ferry Building. La Cocina also partners with CUESA to showcase a different program participant at the Saturday farmers market each month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“What’s so incredible about our relationship with CUESA is it provides people with a place to have initial sales,” says Landa. “When you’re just getting started, it’s hard to get accepted into a farmers market. You need to be able to start testing your products in front of customers.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Bugs for the Masses\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93973\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/don_bugito_by_Marcela_Rico.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/don_bugito_by_Marcela_Rico.jpg\" alt=\"Monica Martinez. Photo: Marcela Rico\" width=\"250\" height=\"192\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93973\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monica Martinez. Photo: Marcela Rico\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Monica Martinez, an artist and designer who immigrated to the US from Mexico City, is one of La Cocina’s current entrepreneurs. Inspired by pre-Hispanic Mexican cuisine, she created an art project building \u003ca href=\"http://monicamartinez.com/section/188863_Wurm_Haus_Unit_Home_Micro_Farm_2010.html\" target=\"_blank\">micro farms\u003c/a> that people could use to raise insects as a low-input alternative protein source.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But she soon realized that there was a lot of education to be done around the ancient practice of entomophagy (eating bugs), and it might be better to help Americans warm up to the idea by first creating delicious food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When she moved to San Francisco, Martinez found herself among 100 attendees at a La Cocina orientation and decided to apply. For several months, she developed her business plan for a bug-based street food business called \u003ca href=\"http://www.donbugito.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Don Bugito\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I was a little skeptical about whether [the judges on the committee] were going to want to try my food, because it was all edible insects,’” recalls Martinez. “But they were very amazed and positive.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the last five years, growing Don Bugito has had its challenges, as American eaters are still largely unaccustomed to eating bugs. Martinez has switched from a food truck model to crunchy packaged treats like chocolate-covered superworms and chile-lime crickets. She’s working on developing her product line, and recently introduced a maple cricket granola.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Interest in edible insects is \u003ca href=\"http://www.bloomberg.com/bw/articles/2014-10-02/crickets-the-insect-food-of-the-future-is-finally-here\" target=\"_blank\">on the rise\u003c/a>, and with a marketing boost from La Cocina, Don Bugito has helped elevate the trend. Venues like the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market have given Martinez opportunities to introduce her product to a curious but receptive audience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s been a journey, and it’s been amazing to have the support of La Cocina along the way,” she says. “People take Don Bugito seriously. Just the fact that we’re at the farmers market makes people think about edible insects as food, and that’s amazing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Spreading Roots\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93972\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/aedan.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/aedan.jpg\" alt=\"Aedan Fermented Foods. Photo courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"250\" height=\"329\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93972\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aedan Fermented Foods. Photo courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The incubation time in La Cocina’s program varies by participant. While a few entrepreneurs have bowed out of the program for personal or professional reasons, most naturally grow out of La Cocina’s shared kitchen and graduate by opening their own restaurant or production space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Grady, being a part of La Cocina is helping her refine her vision for Aedan Fermented Foods. As a mother herself, she’s motivated to help busy parents nourish their families and has started teaching classes to share her techniques. “My dream is not manufacturing my product in some factory. It’s sharing with people how to make miso and create healthy meals at home.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Christine Doerr, owner of chocolatier \u003ca href=\"http://www.neococoa.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Neo Cocoa\u003c/a>, graduated from the program in 2011 when she opened her own kitchen in Belmont. For her, the benefits of being a part of La Cocina extend well beyond just business training. “I’ve made some of the best business relationships, as well as some great personal friends,” she says. “The current program participants are a huge inspiration to me also.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Landa says that the community experience is one of the largest unspoken perks of La Cocina’s program. “People swap stories and exchange tips and tricks,” she says. “That part of our community is really valuable, having so many entrepreneurs in one place who are able to support each other in their challenges.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Martinez agrees. “La Cocina is backing me up, and that’s really huge. I think that’s why Don Bugito is still alive.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Look for Don Bugito at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market on Saturdays in March 2015, and Aedan Fermented Foods in April 2015.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"For Women’s History Month, CUESA is spotlighting women who are transforming our food system. This week we take you behind the scenes at La Cocina, a nonprofit food business incubator for low-income women, now in its 10th year. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1426544218,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":31,"wordCount":1545},"headData":{"title":"Women's History Month: Women Who are Transforming Our Food System | KQED","description":"For Women’s History Month, CUESA is spotlighting women who are transforming our food system. This week we take you behind the scenes at La Cocina, a nonprofit food business incubator for low-income women, now in its 10th year. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"93967 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=93967","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/03/16/womens-history-month-women-who-are-transforming-our-food-system/","disqusTitle":"Women's History Month: Women Who are Transforming Our Food System","path":"/bayareabites/93967/womens-history-month-women-who-are-transforming-our-food-system","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93974\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 610px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/La_Cocina_gala_Drew-Altizer.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/La_Cocina_gala_Drew-Altizer.jpg\" alt=\"La Cocina gala. Photo: Drew Altizer Photography\" width=\"610\" height=\"407\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93974\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/La_Cocina_gala_Drew-Altizer.jpg 610w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/La_Cocina_gala_Drew-Altizer-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/La_Cocina_gala_Drew-Altizer-320x214.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 610px) 100vw, 610px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Cocina gala. Photo: Drew Altizer Photography\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>By Brie Mazurek, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/article/miso-mealworms-women-cook-success\" target=\"_blank\">CUESA\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Women’s History Month, CUESA is spotlighting women who are transforming our food system. This week we take you behind the scenes at \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\" target=\"_blank\">La Cocina\u003c/a>, a nonprofit food business incubator for low-income women, now in its 10th year. CUESA supports La Cocina by featuring a different entrepreneur at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market each month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Mariko Grady joined La Cocina’s incubator kitchen three years ago, the thought of owning her own business was little more than a dream. Following the earthquake, tsunami, and nuclear disaster that devastated Japan in 2011, she had started selling her homemade misos and kojis to friends to raise money to donate to victims in her home country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grady found that there was a hunger for her handcrafted ferments even after she completed her fundraising campaign. She came to La Cocina to formalize her cottage food operation, so she could share her passion for the healthy foods of Japan with a wider American audience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“La Cocina gave me many chances to think about what I wanted to do,” says Grady, now the owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.aedansf.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Aedan Fermented Foods\u003c/a>. “At that time, I had no idea. I just knew I wanted to do a business, and I wanted a commercial kitchen and insurance.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>A Fighting Chance\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>The number of women- and minority-owned businesses in the US is growing fast. According to the Census Bureau’s 2007 Survey of Business Owners, women-owned businesses account for \u003ca href=\"https://www.census.gov/econ/sbo/getsof.html?07women\" target=\"_blank\">28.7%\u003c/a> of all businesses, and minority businesses make up \u003ca href=\"https://www.census.gov/econ/sbo/getsof.html?07cosum\" target=\"_blank\">21.3%\u003c/a> of the total. Minority business ownership increased at \u003ca href=\"https://www.census.gov/newsroom/releases/archives/economic_census/cb10-107.html\" target=\"_blank\">twice the national rate\u003c/a> between 2002 and 2007.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2005, La Cocina was founded in San Francisco’s Mission District to meet a growing need for support of women-owned food businesses, specifically low-income women from immigrant communities and communities of color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93975\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/leticia_landa.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/leticia_landa.jpg\" alt=\"Leticia Landa. Photo: La Cocina\" width=\"250\" height=\"293\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93975\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Leticia Landa. Photo: La Cocina\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“That focus is a reflection of the unfortunate reality of our economy, particularly in our food system,” says La Cocina Deputy Director Leticia Landa. “If you look around the city and country, the vast majority of people in ownership positions are men.” Beyond the economic and bureaucratic hurdles of opening a licensed food business, women may face sexist stereotypes about their physical strength and ability in the workplace. For some, family responsibilities can create additional challenges, especially in an industry where working late nights and weekends is often part of the norm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the 1990s, the \u003ca href=\"http://oaklandlocal.com/2014/04/womens-initiative-for-self-employment-closes-its-doors/\" target=\"_blank\">now-defunct Women’s Initiative for Self-Employment\u003c/a>, a training program for women entrepreneurs, found that many women writing food business plans were not launching their businesses. To find out why, the organization conducted a study and found that the bottleneck was affordable kitchen spaces. “It was too expensive to get permitted, so people were remaining informal,” says Landa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With help from the Women’s Initiative, the Women’s Foundation of California, and a generous donor, a nonprofit was formed to provide licensed commercial cooking space, business training, and marketing support for these innovative fledgling businesses. La Cocina (literally “the kitchen” in Spanish) currently works with 37 entrepreneurs (34 of which are women) and has launched 19 businesses over the last 10 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We don’t create entrepreneurs,” says Landa. “People come to us, and they already have incredible products, and they’re already talented at selling them. It’s a matter of providing resources.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>From Concept to Market\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Entry into La Cocina’s incubator is limited and highly competitive. After attending an orientation, applicants must submit a comprehensive business plan and application detailing their vision, experience, and dedication.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Promising candidates are interviewed and their products are taste-tested, one of the most important parts of the application process. “We want to find people who are making something unique and have a chance to survive in a very competitive landscape,” says Landa. “We care a lot about product quality and business viability.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once accepted, participants start a six- to eight-month pre-incubation curriculum, which covers topics like marketing, product development, operations, and finances. They then begin formal incubation, which can take several years. Entrepreneurs are matched with La Cocina graduates and other business owners in the community to serve as mentors, and graphic designers to help them develop their brand. They test products and build a following through direct sales, retail, or catering. Within the first couple years, the majority of entrepreneurs hire at least two people to help them in their kitchen, according to Landa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During their training, participants have the opportunity to sell their products directly to customers at La Cocina events like the annual \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/San-Francisco-Street-Food-Festival-to-live-on-at-6127937.php\" target=\"_blank\">San Francisco Street Food Festival\u003c/a> and a kiosk inside the Ferry Building. La Cocina also partners with CUESA to showcase a different program participant at the Saturday farmers market each month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“What’s so incredible about our relationship with CUESA is it provides people with a place to have initial sales,” says Landa. “When you’re just getting started, it’s hard to get accepted into a farmers market. You need to be able to start testing your products in front of customers.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Bugs for the Masses\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93973\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/don_bugito_by_Marcela_Rico.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/don_bugito_by_Marcela_Rico.jpg\" alt=\"Monica Martinez. Photo: Marcela Rico\" width=\"250\" height=\"192\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93973\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Monica Martinez. Photo: Marcela Rico\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Monica Martinez, an artist and designer who immigrated to the US from Mexico City, is one of La Cocina’s current entrepreneurs. Inspired by pre-Hispanic Mexican cuisine, she created an art project building \u003ca href=\"http://monicamartinez.com/section/188863_Wurm_Haus_Unit_Home_Micro_Farm_2010.html\" target=\"_blank\">micro farms\u003c/a> that people could use to raise insects as a low-input alternative protein source.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But she soon realized that there was a lot of education to be done around the ancient practice of entomophagy (eating bugs), and it might be better to help Americans warm up to the idea by first creating delicious food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When she moved to San Francisco, Martinez found herself among 100 attendees at a La Cocina orientation and decided to apply. For several months, she developed her business plan for a bug-based street food business called \u003ca href=\"http://www.donbugito.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Don Bugito\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I was a little skeptical about whether [the judges on the committee] were going to want to try my food, because it was all edible insects,’” recalls Martinez. “But they were very amazed and positive.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the last five years, growing Don Bugito has had its challenges, as American eaters are still largely unaccustomed to eating bugs. Martinez has switched from a food truck model to crunchy packaged treats like chocolate-covered superworms and chile-lime crickets. She’s working on developing her product line, and recently introduced a maple cricket granola.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Interest in edible insects is \u003ca href=\"http://www.bloomberg.com/bw/articles/2014-10-02/crickets-the-insect-food-of-the-future-is-finally-here\" target=\"_blank\">on the rise\u003c/a>, and with a marketing boost from La Cocina, Don Bugito has helped elevate the trend. Venues like the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market have given Martinez opportunities to introduce her product to a curious but receptive audience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s been a journey, and it’s been amazing to have the support of La Cocina along the way,” she says. “People take Don Bugito seriously. Just the fact that we’re at the farmers market makes people think about edible insects as food, and that’s amazing.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Spreading Roots\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_93972\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/aedan.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/03/aedan.jpg\" alt=\"Aedan Fermented Foods. Photo courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"250\" height=\"329\" class=\"size-full wp-image-93972\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Aedan Fermented Foods. Photo courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The incubation time in La Cocina’s program varies by participant. While a few entrepreneurs have bowed out of the program for personal or professional reasons, most naturally grow out of La Cocina’s shared kitchen and graduate by opening their own restaurant or production space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Grady, being a part of La Cocina is helping her refine her vision for Aedan Fermented Foods. As a mother herself, she’s motivated to help busy parents nourish their families and has started teaching classes to share her techniques. “My dream is not manufacturing my product in some factory. It’s sharing with people how to make miso and create healthy meals at home.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Christine Doerr, owner of chocolatier \u003ca href=\"http://www.neococoa.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Neo Cocoa\u003c/a>, graduated from the program in 2011 when she opened her own kitchen in Belmont. For her, the benefits of being a part of La Cocina extend well beyond just business training. “I’ve made some of the best business relationships, as well as some great personal friends,” she says. “The current program participants are a huge inspiration to me also.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Landa says that the community experience is one of the largest unspoken perks of La Cocina’s program. “People swap stories and exchange tips and tricks,” she says. “That part of our community is really valuable, having so many entrepreneurs in one place who are able to support each other in their challenges.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Martinez agrees. “La Cocina is backing me up, and that’s really huge. I think that’s why Don Bugito is still alive.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Look for Don Bugito at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market on Saturdays in March 2015, and Aedan Fermented Foods in April 2015.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/93967/womens-history-month-women-who-are-transforming-our-food-system","authors":["5484"],"categories":["bayareabites_12276","bayareabites_95","bayareabites_1763"],"tags":["bayareabites_14213","bayareabites_9872","bayareabites_295","bayareabites_14212","bayareabites_14211"],"featImg":"bayareabites_93974","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.","airtime":"THU 10pm, FRI 1am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Commonwealth Club of California"},"link":"/radio/program/commonwealth-club","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Commonwealth-Club-of-California-p1060/"}},"considerthis":{"id":"considerthis","title":"Consider This","tagline":"Make sense of the day","info":"Make sense of the day. Every weekday afternoon, Consider This helps you consider the major stories of the day in less than 15 minutes, featuring the reporting and storytelling resources of NPR. 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