Italy's Coffee Culture Brims With Rituals And Mysterious Rules
The Pizza Connection: Fighting The Mafia Through Food
A Theme Park for Foodies? Italians Say Bologna
Tortellini, The Dumpling Inspired By Venus' Navel
From Ramen To Rotini: Following The Noodles Of The Silk Road
Italian University Spreads The 'Gelato Gospel'
Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in Five Minutes a Day
Memories of an Italian Christmas
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She has been blogging since 1999, before blog engines even existed and a great readership consisted of a handful of friends who occasionally thought to check out your site. In 2005 she started her first food blog, which she repurposed in 2007 to become \u003ca title=\"The Culinary Life Newsletter\" href=\"http://www.theculinarylife.com/the-culinary-life-newsletter/\">The Culinary Life\u003c/a>.\r\n\r\nStephanie can be called many things: food writer, essayist, professional recipe developer, cookbook author, social media consultant, videographer, documentary maker, website developer, archivist of life. Despite all of these titles, she most commonly responds to \u003cem>Steph\u003c/em>.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/4e633bfddf4ed76efe897ef25d046d6a?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"sstiavetti","facebook":"sstiavetti","instagram":null,"linkedin":"sstiavetti","sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Stephanie Stiavetti | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/4e633bfddf4ed76efe897ef25d046d6a?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/4e633bfddf4ed76efe897ef25d046d6a?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/stephaniestiavetti"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_119153":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_119153","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"119153","score":null,"sort":[1500072764000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"italys-coffee-culture-brims-with-rituals-and-mysterious-rules","title":"Italy's Coffee Culture Brims With Rituals And Mysterious Rules","publishDate":1500072764,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to Morning Edition:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttps://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2017/07/20170714_me_italys_coffee_culture_brims_with_rituals_and_mysterious_rules.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coffee — it's something many can't start the day without. In Italy, it is a cultural mainstay, and the country is perhaps the beverage's spiritual home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, Italy gave us the lingo — espresso, cappuccino, latte — and its coffee culture is filled with rituals and mysterious rules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Caffé Greco is Rome's oldest café. Founded in 1760, it's also the second oldest in all of Italy, after Florian in Venice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119154\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1438px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae.jpg\" alt=\"The entrance to Caffé Greco, the oldest café in Rome.\" width=\"1438\" height=\"1383\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119154\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae.jpg 1438w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae-160x154.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae-800x769.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae-768x739.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae-1020x981.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae-1180x1135.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae-960x923.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae-240x231.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae-375x361.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae-520x500.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae-32x32.jpg 32w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1438px) 100vw, 1438px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entrance to Caffé Greco, the oldest café in Rome. \u003ccite>(Sylvia Poggioli/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On a recent hot summer afternoon, Caffé Greco was packed with tourists on settees upholstered in red velvet. They sipped coffee served on tiny, marble tables, while admiring 18th-century landscape paintings that hang along damask-lined walls.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maitre d' Simone Rampone said that thanks to the quality of its coffee, Caffé Greco soon became very popular and was a favorite of writers from all over Europe, such as \"Byron, Shelley, Keats, Gogol from Russia, Stendhal.\" He pointed out that we were sitting on the couch that belonged to Hans Christian Andersen, who for a time lived upstairs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coffee was introduced to Europe in the 17th century. But it wasn't until the invention of a steam-driven, coffee-making machine in the late 19th century that Italy gave the world espresso.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Espresso is not a particular coffee bean or type of roast. It's a method to brew finely ground and compacted coffee very fast, with very hot water, at very high pressure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Moreno Faina is the director of the University of Coffee, based in Trieste. Owned by the Illy coffee company, it holds courses for baristas, coffee producers and coffee bar managers. This is how he describes Italy's signature coffee beverage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119155\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1451px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4.jpg\" alt=\"Caffé Greco maitre d' Simone Rampone sits on Hans Christian Andersen's couch.\" width=\"1451\" height=\"1306\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119155\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4.jpg 1451w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4-160x144.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4-800x720.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4-768x691.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4-1020x918.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4-1180x1062.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4-960x864.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4-240x216.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4-375x338.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4-520x468.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1451px) 100vw, 1451px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Caffé Greco maitre d' Simone Rampone sits on Hans Christian Andersen's couch. \u003ccite>(Sylvia Poggioli/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"So you need an espresso, you ask for an espresso and a barista will serve immediately the espresso just for you. In all other cases,\" adds Faina, \"when you ask for a coffee, the coffee has already been prepared, while espresso must be prepared on express order.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A landmark in Rome's Monti neighborhood is the Er Baretto café. Owner Marco Eskandar, an Egyptian by birth, and longtime Italian resident, reveals the secret of good espresso.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's the 5 M's,\" says Eskandar. \"M\u003cem>iscela\u003c/em> — blend; \u003cem>macchina, \u003c/em>the coffee machine; \u003cem>macinino, \u003c/em>the grinder; \u003cem>manutenzione, \u003c/em>machine maintenance; and \u003cem>mano,\u003c/em> the skill of the barista.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eskandar is also a master of cappuccino — espresso and milk named for the color of the robes of Capuchin monks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the coffee brews, he twirls a metal pitcher of milk under a spout of steam. When the milk turns frothy, he carefully pours it over the espresso, making it the canvas for a little work of art — a beautiful white tulip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Italian custom, I am violating an Italian taboo: It's afternoon and cappuccino is considered a breakfast beverage never, ever to be consumed after late morning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elizabeth Minchilli — an American who writes about Italian food, wine and culture — says this unwritten law derives from a national obsession with digestion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I don't think after a meal you would have a warm cup of milk,\" she says. Echoing the Italian coffee mantra, she says, \"it's \u003cem>pesante\u003c/em>, it's heavy!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Minchilli often warns Americans that if they order a latte here, all they'll get is a glass of milk. She stresses that Italian coffee culture has much to do with when and where the beverage is consumed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's always this social occasion, whether it is in the morning, afternoon, or 6 in the evening, and there are rituals that go along with it,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most common ritual is drinking coffee standing up at a bar, chatting with the barista.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in Rome, you'll often hear a person order an espresso or cappuccino served in a glass — many claim it tastes better than in a porcelain cup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And there are many varieties to choose from, from \u003cem>caffé' macchiato\u003c/em> — stained with a swirl of milk, to \u003cem>caffé corretto\u003c/em> — an espresso corrected with a shot of grappa or cognac. And, for summer, says Minchilli, there are refreshing variations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Shakerato\u003c/em>, it's when they put a shot of espresso into a cocktail shaker with ice and shake it, shake it, shake it, until it gets foamy and the ice kind of melts and crystalizes and then they pour it into a goblet. And that's fantastic!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, there's \u003cem>Granita di Caffé\u003c/em> — a frozen mix of coffee, sugar and water usually served with a big dollop of whipped cream on top — which is how Italians even turned their beloved espresso into dessert. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>. To see more, visit http://www.npr.org/.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Italy%27s+Coffee+Culture+Brims+With+Rituals+And+Mysterious+Rules&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\n\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Can you drink cappuccino after breakfast? Should you take espresso in a cup or a glass? Italy, perhaps the spiritual home of coffee, has much to say about when and how to enjoy it.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1500072764,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":27,"wordCount":839},"headData":{"title":"Italy's Coffee Culture Brims With Rituals And Mysterious Rules | KQED","description":"Can you drink cappuccino after breakfast? Should you take espresso in a cup or a glass? Italy, perhaps the spiritual home of coffee, has much to say about when and how to enjoy it.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Italy's Coffee Culture Brims With Rituals And Mysterious Rules","datePublished":"2017-07-14T22:52:44.000Z","dateModified":"2017-07-14T22:52:44.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"119153 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=119153","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/07/14/italys-coffee-culture-brims-with-rituals-and-mysterious-rules/","disqusTitle":"Italy's Coffee Culture Brims With Rituals And Mysterious Rules","source":"Coffee","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/beverages-2/tea-and-coffee/","nprByline":"Sylvia Poggioli, NPR Food","nprStoryId":"535638587","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=535638587&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/07/14/535638587/italys-coffee-culture-brims-with-rituals-and-mysterious-rules?ft=nprml&f=535638587","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Fri, 14 Jul 2017 13:29:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Fri, 14 Jul 2017 04:57:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Fri, 14 Jul 2017 16:05:06 -0400","nprAudio":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2017/07/20170714_me_italys_coffee_culture_brims_with_rituals_and_mysterious_rules.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=295&p=3&story=535638587&t=progseg&e=537172781&seg=3&ft=nprml&f=535638587","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1537174858-5a339e.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=295&p=3&story=535638587&t=progseg&e=537172781&seg=3&ft=nprml&f=535638587","path":"/bayareabites/119153/italys-coffee-culture-brims-with-rituals-and-mysterious-rules","audioUrl":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2017/07/20170714_me_italys_coffee_culture_brims_with_rituals_and_mysterious_rules.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=295&p=3&story=535638587&t=progseg&e=537172781&seg=3&ft=nprml&f=535638587","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to Morning Edition:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"nprOneAudioLink","attributes":{"named":{"src":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2017/07/20170714_me_italys_coffee_culture_brims_with_rituals_and_mysterious_rules.mp3"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coffee — it's something many can't start the day without. In Italy, it is a cultural mainstay, and the country is perhaps the beverage's spiritual home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After all, Italy gave us the lingo — espresso, cappuccino, latte — and its coffee culture is filled with rituals and mysterious rules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Caffé Greco is Rome's oldest café. Founded in 1760, it's also the second oldest in all of Italy, after Florian in Venice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119154\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1438px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae.jpg\" alt=\"The entrance to Caffé Greco, the oldest café in Rome.\" width=\"1438\" height=\"1383\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119154\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae.jpg 1438w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae-160x154.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae-800x769.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae-768x739.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae-1020x981.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae-1180x1135.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae-960x923.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae-240x231.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae-375x361.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae-520x500.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/caf-greco-entrance_custom-527306533fb75fa99b7dd87220430903ca4654ae-32x32.jpg 32w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1438px) 100vw, 1438px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The entrance to Caffé Greco, the oldest café in Rome. \u003ccite>(Sylvia Poggioli/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On a recent hot summer afternoon, Caffé Greco was packed with tourists on settees upholstered in red velvet. They sipped coffee served on tiny, marble tables, while admiring 18th-century landscape paintings that hang along damask-lined walls.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maitre d' Simone Rampone said that thanks to the quality of its coffee, Caffé Greco soon became very popular and was a favorite of writers from all over Europe, such as \"Byron, Shelley, Keats, Gogol from Russia, Stendhal.\" He pointed out that we were sitting on the couch that belonged to Hans Christian Andersen, who for a time lived upstairs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coffee was introduced to Europe in the 17th century. But it wasn't until the invention of a steam-driven, coffee-making machine in the late 19th century that Italy gave the world espresso.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Espresso is not a particular coffee bean or type of roast. It's a method to brew finely ground and compacted coffee very fast, with very hot water, at very high pressure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Moreno Faina is the director of the University of Coffee, based in Trieste. Owned by the Illy coffee company, it holds courses for baristas, coffee producers and coffee bar managers. This is how he describes Italy's signature coffee beverage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_119155\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1451px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4.jpg\" alt=\"Caffé Greco maitre d' Simone Rampone sits on Hans Christian Andersen's couch.\" width=\"1451\" height=\"1306\" class=\"size-full wp-image-119155\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4.jpg 1451w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4-160x144.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4-800x720.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4-768x691.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4-1020x918.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4-1180x1062.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4-960x864.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4-240x216.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4-375x338.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/07/maitre-simone_custom-ecbf4f13c7c3bbe3de528a946acc3077ad793be4-520x468.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1451px) 100vw, 1451px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Caffé Greco maitre d' Simone Rampone sits on Hans Christian Andersen's couch. \u003ccite>(Sylvia Poggioli/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"So you need an espresso, you ask for an espresso and a barista will serve immediately the espresso just for you. In all other cases,\" adds Faina, \"when you ask for a coffee, the coffee has already been prepared, while espresso must be prepared on express order.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A landmark in Rome's Monti neighborhood is the Er Baretto café. Owner Marco Eskandar, an Egyptian by birth, and longtime Italian resident, reveals the secret of good espresso.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's the 5 M's,\" says Eskandar. \"M\u003cem>iscela\u003c/em> — blend; \u003cem>macchina, \u003c/em>the coffee machine; \u003cem>macinino, \u003c/em>the grinder; \u003cem>manutenzione, \u003c/em>machine maintenance; and \u003cem>mano,\u003c/em> the skill of the barista.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eskandar is also a master of cappuccino — espresso and milk named for the color of the robes of Capuchin monks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the coffee brews, he twirls a metal pitcher of milk under a spout of steam. When the milk turns frothy, he carefully pours it over the espresso, making it the canvas for a little work of art — a beautiful white tulip.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Italian custom, I am violating an Italian taboo: It's afternoon and cappuccino is considered a breakfast beverage never, ever to be consumed after late morning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elizabeth Minchilli — an American who writes about Italian food, wine and culture — says this unwritten law derives from a national obsession with digestion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I don't think after a meal you would have a warm cup of milk,\" she says. Echoing the Italian coffee mantra, she says, \"it's \u003cem>pesante\u003c/em>, it's heavy!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Minchilli often warns Americans that if they order a latte here, all they'll get is a glass of milk. She stresses that Italian coffee culture has much to do with when and where the beverage is consumed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's always this social occasion, whether it is in the morning, afternoon, or 6 in the evening, and there are rituals that go along with it,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most common ritual is drinking coffee standing up at a bar, chatting with the barista.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in Rome, you'll often hear a person order an espresso or cappuccino served in a glass — many claim it tastes better than in a porcelain cup.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And there are many varieties to choose from, from \u003cem>caffé' macchiato\u003c/em> — stained with a swirl of milk, to \u003cem>caffé corretto\u003c/em> — an espresso corrected with a shot of grappa or cognac. And, for summer, says Minchilli, there are refreshing variations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Shakerato\u003c/em>, it's when they put a shot of espresso into a cocktail shaker with ice and shake it, shake it, shake it, until it gets foamy and the ice kind of melts and crystalizes and then they pour it into a goblet. And that's fantastic!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, there's \u003cem>Granita di Caffé\u003c/em> — a frozen mix of coffee, sugar and water usually served with a big dollop of whipped cream on top — which is how Italians even turned their beloved espresso into dessert. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>. To see more, visit http://www.npr.org/.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Italy%27s+Coffee+Culture+Brims+With+Rituals+And+Mysterious+Rules&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\n\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/119153/italys-coffee-culture-brims-with-rituals-and-mysterious-rules","authors":["byline_bayareabites_119153"],"categories":["bayareabites_13306","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1248","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_125","bayareabites_13468","bayareabites_8646"],"featImg":"bayareabites_119158","label":"source_bayareabites_119153"},"bayareabites_81391":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_81391","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"81391","score":null,"sort":[1399386157000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-pizza-connection-fighting-the-mafia-through-food","title":"The Pizza Connection: Fighting The Mafia Through Food ","publishDate":1399386157,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81392\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1502px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/the-pizza-connection_francesco-galante-in-vineyards1_wide-00156d912000b8697d84bada4b3cddf503eaebdc.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/the-pizza-connection_francesco-galante-in-vineyards1_wide-00156d912000b8697d84bada4b3cddf503eaebdc.jpg\" alt=\"Francesco Galante leads the Libera Terra, a cooperative of farmers and producers who create food and jobs outside of the Mafia's control. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"1502\" height=\"843\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81392\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Francesco Galante leads the Libera Terra, a cooperative of farmers and producers who create food and jobs outside of the Mafia's control. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/06/306874351/the-pizza-connection-fighting-the-mafia-through-food\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140506_me_the_pizza_connection_fighting_the_mafia_through_food_.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by The \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/5252035/the-kitchen-sisters\">Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/06/306874351/the-pizza-connection-fighting-the-mafia-through-food\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/6/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In recent years, the effort to bring the Mafia under control in Sicily has spilled over into the world of food. Today a movement of small organic agricultural cooperatives has sprung up across the island to farm land once confiscated by the Mafia and bring these goods to a global market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://liberaterra.it/it/home/\">Libera Terra\u003c/a> means free land, or land free from Mafia. A cooperative of farmers and other producers working under this banner creates organic olive oil, wine, pasta, grains and more and provides Mafia-free jobs in a country with staggering unemployment, deep-seated corruption and a rich kitchen tradition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's very difficult to buy something to eat here in Sicily and be sure that it has nothing to do with the Mafia,\" says Gabrielle Mastrilli. \"When you eat food with the Libera Terra label, you are sure that the product and the worker, they don't have anything to do with the Mafia.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mastrilli is a photographer and writer who, like so many of the young people of the island, had left to find work, specifically Mafia-free work. His family has a long history in organizing Sicilian agriculture against the Mafia's stronghold on wages, working conditions and employment in the fields. With the birth of Libera Terra, Gabriele has recently returned to the island to promote the cooperatives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81394\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/the-pizza-connection_salvatore-rino-painting_vert-0ee313e2f7555f6a69f3ba35c308bc5cb772734a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/the-pizza-connection_salvatore-rino-painting_vert-0ee313e2f7555f6a69f3ba35c308bc5cb772734a.jpg\" alt=\"A painting of Mafia boss Salvatore Riina, on display at the Museo Anti-Mafia in Corleone, Sicily. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81394\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A painting of Mafia boss Salvatore Riina, on display at the Museo Anti-Mafia in Corleone, Sicily. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of people who have been fighting for agricultural reform across the decades were killed by the Mafia. One of them was my grandfather,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don Luigi Ciotti is another reformer and one of the founders of Libera Terra. Ciotti, an Italian priest, saw the grip the Mafia had on his country — the drug operations, the prostitution rings, the hold on the most fertile of agricultural lands — and began to organize a movement to fight back through education, employment and agriculture. \"What we grow from these lands can now be found in Italian markets,\" says Don Ciotti. \"Pasta, olive oil [and] \u003cem>mozzarella di bufala\u003c/em>, created from dairy businesses that were confiscated from the Mafia.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A Bit Of History\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The Mafia is like a snake. It's very difficult to catch,\" says Mastrilli, as he drives us to the town of Cinisi about 45 minutes from Palermo, to the former home of \u003ca href=\"http://www.peppinoimpastato.com/biografia.htm\">Peppino Impastato\u003c/a>, an anti-Mafia activist whose murder has been attributed to the local Mafia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The Mafia built the airport here to control the drug traffic between Palermo and the United States. It was called 'The Pizza Connection,'\" says Mastrilli, \"because they used to transport the heroin inside tomato cans to the be used in the United States in pizzerias.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>European narcotic distribution was once centered in Marseilles, with French chemists transforming morphine base into heroin, and shipping it from there. The operation was known as \"The French Connection\" until the early 1970s. After that, the Italian Mafia took over, explains Peter Schneider, a retired professor of sociology and anthropology at Fordham University. Schneider and his wife Jane have studied the Mafia and community in Sicily for decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Heroin traveled from Palermo to the United States in all sorts of containers — in oranges, in cans of tuna, in diplomatic pouches, even under the gowns of nuns who were coming to collect money for their orphanages in Sicily. And some came in the cans of San Marzano tomatoes,\" says Schneider.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Organic Agriculture On Former Mafia Land\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Francesco Galante — lanky, soft-spoken, intense — is the spokesman and leader of the Libera Terra. He picks up the thread as he\u003cem> \u003c/em>drives up the steep roads an hour or so from Palermo to the cooperative's vineyards that stretch up the windswept mountainside near San Giuseppe Jato. They are some of the most fertile, beautiful fields, and were once the property of Bernardo Brusca, the boss of San Guiseppe Jato until he was jailed in the 1980s. Now they are home to a thriving organic vineyard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"To be organic was a form of respect. The idea is being kind to the soil itself: to start anew, to take poisons symbolic and real poisons from the soil itself,\" says Galante.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Galante says that Libera Terra wants to make products people buy not just for their story but for their quality. They want to provide workers with fair wages and respect, improve the high unemployment rate in Sicily (especially among youth) and undo decades of systemic corruption.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>'The Mafia Burned Our Olive Trees'\u003cbr>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In our wine you can smell the sea and the mountains,\" says Angelo Sciortino, farmer and winemaker for the \u003ca href=\"http://flarenetwork.org/confprop/project/coop/placidorizzotto.htm\">Placido Rizotto Cooperative,\u003c/a> where 40 people now work in the winery and vineyards. \"We don't use a lot of machines in our production. We try to use as many people as possible. We still use the hands. Our goal is to give work.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ten years ago when the Placido Rizotto Agricultural Cooperative started, few people wanted to work for them because they were scared. \"The Mafia, they burned the field here just before the harvesting of the grain,\" says Angelo. \"Three years ago when we collected olives for the first time, we had police around us all the time, [for protection] with guns. Then last year the Mafia burned our olive trees. We don't want to want guns. We don't want police. We have to show to the people that to work with Libera [Terra], it's a good thing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bringing An End To The \u003cem>Pizzo\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As challenging as it has been to go up against the Mafia in the agricultural system, there's something else Sicilians are fighting: the practice of businesses paying \u003cem>pizzo\u003c/em> for protection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81393\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/the-pizza-connection_addiopizzo_vert-945690a730a13322171a08ae04488df77fa37e22.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/the-pizza-connection_addiopizzo_vert-945690a730a13322171a08ae04488df77fa37e22.jpg\" alt=\"The Addiopizzo sticker on the door of a restaurant or hotel in Sicily tells you the establishment does not pay extortion money to the Mafia. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81393\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Addiopizzo sticker on the door of a restaurant or hotel in Sicily tells you the establishment does not pay extortion money to the Mafia. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"In Palermo, currently 70 to 80 percent of shopkeepers pay a form of extortion, they pay for protection, they pay the \u003cem>pizzo\u003c/em>,\" says Libera Terra leader Galante. \"The idea of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.addiopizzo.org/english.asp\">Addiopizzo\u003c/a> movement is to say 'no' to the \u003cem>pizzo\u003c/em>. Farewell \u003cem>pizzo\u003c/em>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The anti-\u003cem>pizzo\u003c/em> movement began in 2004 when a group of anti-Mafia student activists decided to open a café in Palermo and began questioning what they would do if the Mafia came around, asking for \u003cem>pizzo\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They began printing out little stickers that they put on lampposts and store windows and curbstones all over the city. All of a sudden hundreds of these stickers appeared throughout Palermo and nobody knew where they came from. \u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>The stickers read:\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\"The people who pay the \u003cem>pizzo\u003c/em> are a people without dignity.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today the Addiopizzo symbol is on the doors of businesses throughout Sicily and you can chose to go to a restaurant or hotel and do business with businesses not involved in the Mafia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A Museum To Remember\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Corleone, the small town immortalized in the film \u003cem>The Godfather, \u003c/em>Walter Bonano is a guide at the Museum of the Anti-Mafia. \"'Talk about the Mafia, no matter how,' \" he says quoting Paolo Borsellino, a famous judge killed by the Mafia in 1992. \"If I talk about Mafia I don't forget Mafia. And if I don't forget Mafia, it's very hard for me to commit the same mistakes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The young, red-headed tour guide points to a photograph of the last of the godfathers, Bernardo Provenzano, from Corleone. His former house is a now a shop where they sell tomatoes from the fields he once confiscated. \"It is a symbolic thing,\" says Bonano. \"We are taking back what they stole.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Libera Terra, each of the organic, \u003cem>pizzo\u003c/em>-free products they sell in grocery stores throughout Sicily is a reminder. They have a wine called Centopassi dedicated to Peppino Impastato. They have another wine called Placido Rizotto, named for a peasant and trade union leader in Corleone assassinated by Mafia bosses in 1948.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When you drink the wine,\" says Bonano, \"it's a way to remember the work of these young heroes killed by the Mafia. It's a very symbolic thing. Maybe from an economic point of view Libera Terra is not a big business, but I like the symbolism of it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/series/91851784/hidden-kitchens-the-kitchen-sisters\">\u003cem>The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \u003cem>Davia Nelson and Nikki Silva, are Peabody Award-winning producers who create radio and multimedia stories for NPR and public broadcast. Their Hidden Kitchen Series travels the world, exploring little known kitchen rituals and traditions that explore how communities come together, from modern-day Sicily to medieval England, the Australian Outback and cool California.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"In the first installment of the new season of Hidden Kitchens, The Kitchen Sisters explore how Sicilians are reclaiming farmland and providing Mafia-free jobs in a region gripped by corruption.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1399386157,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":35,"wordCount":1511},"headData":{"title":"The Pizza Connection: Fighting The Mafia Through Food | KQED","description":"In the first installment of the new season of Hidden Kitchens, The Kitchen Sisters explore how Sicilians are reclaiming farmland and providing Mafia-free jobs in a region gripped by corruption.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The Pizza Connection: Fighting The Mafia Through Food ","datePublished":"2014-05-06T14:22:37.000Z","dateModified":"2014-05-06T14:22:37.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"81391 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=81391","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/05/06/the-pizza-connection-fighting-the-mafia-through-food/","disqusTitle":"The Pizza Connection: Fighting The Mafia Through Food ","nprByline":"The Kitchen Sisters","nprStoryId":"306874351","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=306874351&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/06/306874351/the-pizza-connection-fighting-the-mafia-through-food?ft=3&f=306874351","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 06 May 2014 08:28:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 06 May 2014 03:26:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 06 May 2014 04:38:33 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140506_me_the_pizza_connection_fighting_the_mafia_through_food_.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&ft=3&f=306874351","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1309997204-49d653.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&ft=3&f=306874351","path":"/bayareabites/81391/the-pizza-connection-fighting-the-mafia-through-food","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140506_me_the_pizza_connection_fighting_the_mafia_through_food_.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81392\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1502px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/the-pizza-connection_francesco-galante-in-vineyards1_wide-00156d912000b8697d84bada4b3cddf503eaebdc.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/the-pizza-connection_francesco-galante-in-vineyards1_wide-00156d912000b8697d84bada4b3cddf503eaebdc.jpg\" alt=\"Francesco Galante leads the Libera Terra, a cooperative of farmers and producers who create food and jobs outside of the Mafia's control. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"1502\" height=\"843\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81392\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Francesco Galante leads the Libera Terra, a cooperative of farmers and producers who create food and jobs outside of the Mafia's control. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/06/306874351/the-pizza-connection-fighting-the-mafia-through-food\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140506_me_the_pizza_connection_fighting_the_mafia_through_food_.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by The \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/5252035/the-kitchen-sisters\">Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/06/306874351/the-pizza-connection-fighting-the-mafia-through-food\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/6/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In recent years, the effort to bring the Mafia under control in Sicily has spilled over into the world of food. Today a movement of small organic agricultural cooperatives has sprung up across the island to farm land once confiscated by the Mafia and bring these goods to a global market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://liberaterra.it/it/home/\">Libera Terra\u003c/a> means free land, or land free from Mafia. A cooperative of farmers and other producers working under this banner creates organic olive oil, wine, pasta, grains and more and provides Mafia-free jobs in a country with staggering unemployment, deep-seated corruption and a rich kitchen tradition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's very difficult to buy something to eat here in Sicily and be sure that it has nothing to do with the Mafia,\" says Gabrielle Mastrilli. \"When you eat food with the Libera Terra label, you are sure that the product and the worker, they don't have anything to do with the Mafia.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mastrilli is a photographer and writer who, like so many of the young people of the island, had left to find work, specifically Mafia-free work. His family has a long history in organizing Sicilian agriculture against the Mafia's stronghold on wages, working conditions and employment in the fields. With the birth of Libera Terra, Gabriele has recently returned to the island to promote the cooperatives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81394\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/the-pizza-connection_salvatore-rino-painting_vert-0ee313e2f7555f6a69f3ba35c308bc5cb772734a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/the-pizza-connection_salvatore-rino-painting_vert-0ee313e2f7555f6a69f3ba35c308bc5cb772734a.jpg\" alt=\"A painting of Mafia boss Salvatore Riina, on display at the Museo Anti-Mafia in Corleone, Sicily. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81394\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A painting of Mafia boss Salvatore Riina, on display at the Museo Anti-Mafia in Corleone, Sicily. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of people who have been fighting for agricultural reform across the decades were killed by the Mafia. One of them was my grandfather,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don Luigi Ciotti is another reformer and one of the founders of Libera Terra. Ciotti, an Italian priest, saw the grip the Mafia had on his country — the drug operations, the prostitution rings, the hold on the most fertile of agricultural lands — and began to organize a movement to fight back through education, employment and agriculture. \"What we grow from these lands can now be found in Italian markets,\" says Don Ciotti. \"Pasta, olive oil [and] \u003cem>mozzarella di bufala\u003c/em>, created from dairy businesses that were confiscated from the Mafia.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A Bit Of History\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The Mafia is like a snake. It's very difficult to catch,\" says Mastrilli, as he drives us to the town of Cinisi about 45 minutes from Palermo, to the former home of \u003ca href=\"http://www.peppinoimpastato.com/biografia.htm\">Peppino Impastato\u003c/a>, an anti-Mafia activist whose murder has been attributed to the local Mafia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The Mafia built the airport here to control the drug traffic between Palermo and the United States. It was called 'The Pizza Connection,'\" says Mastrilli, \"because they used to transport the heroin inside tomato cans to the be used in the United States in pizzerias.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>European narcotic distribution was once centered in Marseilles, with French chemists transforming morphine base into heroin, and shipping it from there. The operation was known as \"The French Connection\" until the early 1970s. After that, the Italian Mafia took over, explains Peter Schneider, a retired professor of sociology and anthropology at Fordham University. Schneider and his wife Jane have studied the Mafia and community in Sicily for decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Heroin traveled from Palermo to the United States in all sorts of containers — in oranges, in cans of tuna, in diplomatic pouches, even under the gowns of nuns who were coming to collect money for their orphanages in Sicily. And some came in the cans of San Marzano tomatoes,\" says Schneider.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Organic Agriculture On Former Mafia Land\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Francesco Galante — lanky, soft-spoken, intense — is the spokesman and leader of the Libera Terra. He picks up the thread as he\u003cem> \u003c/em>drives up the steep roads an hour or so from Palermo to the cooperative's vineyards that stretch up the windswept mountainside near San Giuseppe Jato. They are some of the most fertile, beautiful fields, and were once the property of Bernardo Brusca, the boss of San Guiseppe Jato until he was jailed in the 1980s. Now they are home to a thriving organic vineyard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"To be organic was a form of respect. The idea is being kind to the soil itself: to start anew, to take poisons symbolic and real poisons from the soil itself,\" says Galante.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Galante says that Libera Terra wants to make products people buy not just for their story but for their quality. They want to provide workers with fair wages and respect, improve the high unemployment rate in Sicily (especially among youth) and undo decades of systemic corruption.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>'The Mafia Burned Our Olive Trees'\u003cbr>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In our wine you can smell the sea and the mountains,\" says Angelo Sciortino, farmer and winemaker for the \u003ca href=\"http://flarenetwork.org/confprop/project/coop/placidorizzotto.htm\">Placido Rizotto Cooperative,\u003c/a> where 40 people now work in the winery and vineyards. \"We don't use a lot of machines in our production. We try to use as many people as possible. We still use the hands. Our goal is to give work.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ten years ago when the Placido Rizotto Agricultural Cooperative started, few people wanted to work for them because they were scared. \"The Mafia, they burned the field here just before the harvesting of the grain,\" says Angelo. \"Three years ago when we collected olives for the first time, we had police around us all the time, [for protection] with guns. Then last year the Mafia burned our olive trees. We don't want to want guns. We don't want police. We have to show to the people that to work with Libera [Terra], it's a good thing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bringing An End To The \u003cem>Pizzo\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As challenging as it has been to go up against the Mafia in the agricultural system, there's something else Sicilians are fighting: the practice of businesses paying \u003cem>pizzo\u003c/em> for protection.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81393\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/the-pizza-connection_addiopizzo_vert-945690a730a13322171a08ae04488df77fa37e22.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/the-pizza-connection_addiopizzo_vert-945690a730a13322171a08ae04488df77fa37e22.jpg\" alt=\"The Addiopizzo sticker on the door of a restaurant or hotel in Sicily tells you the establishment does not pay extortion money to the Mafia. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81393\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Addiopizzo sticker on the door of a restaurant or hotel in Sicily tells you the establishment does not pay extortion money to the Mafia. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"In Palermo, currently 70 to 80 percent of shopkeepers pay a form of extortion, they pay for protection, they pay the \u003cem>pizzo\u003c/em>,\" says Libera Terra leader Galante. \"The idea of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.addiopizzo.org/english.asp\">Addiopizzo\u003c/a> movement is to say 'no' to the \u003cem>pizzo\u003c/em>. Farewell \u003cem>pizzo\u003c/em>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The anti-\u003cem>pizzo\u003c/em> movement began in 2004 when a group of anti-Mafia student activists decided to open a café in Palermo and began questioning what they would do if the Mafia came around, asking for \u003cem>pizzo\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They began printing out little stickers that they put on lampposts and store windows and curbstones all over the city. All of a sudden hundreds of these stickers appeared throughout Palermo and nobody knew where they came from. \u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>The stickers read:\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\"The people who pay the \u003cem>pizzo\u003c/em> are a people without dignity.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today the Addiopizzo symbol is on the doors of businesses throughout Sicily and you can chose to go to a restaurant or hotel and do business with businesses not involved in the Mafia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A Museum To Remember\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Corleone, the small town immortalized in the film \u003cem>The Godfather, \u003c/em>Walter Bonano is a guide at the Museum of the Anti-Mafia. \"'Talk about the Mafia, no matter how,' \" he says quoting Paolo Borsellino, a famous judge killed by the Mafia in 1992. \"If I talk about Mafia I don't forget Mafia. And if I don't forget Mafia, it's very hard for me to commit the same mistakes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The young, red-headed tour guide points to a photograph of the last of the godfathers, Bernardo Provenzano, from Corleone. His former house is a now a shop where they sell tomatoes from the fields he once confiscated. \"It is a symbolic thing,\" says Bonano. \"We are taking back what they stole.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Libera Terra, each of the organic, \u003cem>pizzo\u003c/em>-free products they sell in grocery stores throughout Sicily is a reminder. They have a wine called Centopassi dedicated to Peppino Impastato. They have another wine called Placido Rizotto, named for a peasant and trade union leader in Corleone assassinated by Mafia bosses in 1948.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When you drink the wine,\" says Bonano, \"it's a way to remember the work of these young heroes killed by the Mafia. It's a very symbolic thing. Maybe from an economic point of view Libera Terra is not a big business, but I like the symbolism of it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/series/91851784/hidden-kitchens-the-kitchen-sisters\">\u003cem>The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \u003cem>Davia Nelson and Nikki Silva, are Peabody Award-winning producers who create radio and multimedia stories for NPR and public broadcast. Their Hidden Kitchen Series travels the world, exploring little known kitchen rituals and traditions that explore how communities come together, from modern-day Sicily to medieval England, the Australian Outback and cool California.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/81391/the-pizza-connection-fighting-the-mafia-through-food","authors":["byline_bayareabites_81391"],"categories":["bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_34"],"tags":["bayareabites_13339","bayareabites_13335","bayareabites_8646","bayareabites_13334","bayareabites_13337","bayareabites_443","bayareabites_13338","bayareabites_13336","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_81392","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_78953":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_78953","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"78953","score":null,"sort":[1394404715000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"a-theme-park-for-foodies-italians-say-bologna","title":"A Theme Park for Foodies? Italians Say Bologna","publishDate":1394404715,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78954\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/4416942703_825113d166_o-copy_wide-d3ac7a14f8b5ef4178d6bcb128745f88ae544f29.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/4416942703_825113d166_o-copy_wide-d3ac7a14f8b5ef4178d6bcb128745f88ae544f29-1024x575.jpg\" alt=\"Customers dine at the original Eataly in Turin, Italy, which opened in 2007. Photo: demoshelsinki/Flickr\" width=\"1024\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78954\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Customers dine at the original Eataly in Turin, Italy, which opened in 2007. Photo: demoshelsinki/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2101034/sylvia-poggioli\" target=\"_blank\">Sylvia Poggiolo\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/03/09/286939246/a-theme-park-for-foodies-italians-say-bologna\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/9/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Italy has more \u003ca href=\"http://whc.unesco.org/en/statesparties/IT/\">UNESCO world heritage sites\u003c/a> than any other country in the world, and its art and cultural riches have drawn visitors for centuries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also prides itself on being a culinary mecca, where preparing, cooking and serving meals is a fine, even sacred, art. And now that the country is in the deepest and most protracted recession since World War II, why not cash in on its reputation as a paradise for visiting gourmets and gourmands?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In late February, Oscar Farinetti, who founded the Eataly chain of food emporiums, announced a new plan to help rescue economy: \"Fico Eataly World,\" a theme park devoted entirely to food and wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The project is a joint venture between Eataly and the municipality of Bologna, which is providing 86,000 square feet of land with warehouses to be transformed into food labs, grocery stores and, of course, restaurants. The price tag for the park is estimated at $55 million.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eataly, which has over two dozen branches around the world, was founded in Turin in 2007 by Farinetti, who is CEO and owns a 60 percent share. The other 40 percent is owned by cooperatives of the COOP group of supermarkets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cooperatives have their roots in the Communist Party that was powerful in the Emilia-Romagna region that surrounds Bologna in the post-war period. The founder of the Slow Food Movement, Carlo Petrini, is also left-leaning, and another example of the ties between the left and the contemporary gastronomy movement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The location for the Eataly theme park could not be more appropriate. Italy has many very different cuisines, but Bologna and Emilia-Romagna are widely, if grudgingly, recognized as the gastronomic capital of Italy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The region is the home of Parmesan cheese, prosciutto di Parma, balsamic vinegar, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/27/tortellini-the-dumpling-inspired-by-venus-navel\">tortellini\u003c/a> and lasagna, among many other delicacies. Since the Middle Ages, the city was known as Bologna La Grassa, Bologna the fat – as in, affluent and epicurean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Bologna is also home to the world's only University of Gelato, as I \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/06/17/italian-gelato-university-ice-cream\">reported\u003c/a> in 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The foreign media has referred to the planned food theme park as a \"Disneyland of Food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when I mentioned the \"Disneyland for foodies\" to people shopping at two well-known Roman outdoor markets, everyone grimaced in disgust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Sounds like something for tourists,\" Simona Vitali, a middle-aged woman shopping for groceries in Piazza San Cosimato, told me. \"We Italians have no need for such a theme park.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Farinetti \u003ca href=\"http://www.lagazzettadelmezzogiorno.it/english/eataly-planning-mega-food-theme-park-no631090\">told\u003c/a> the online English language service ANSA he hopes the park will draw annually 10 million visitors who will \"play with this magical thing, Italian food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eataly World is scheduled to open Nov. 1, 2015. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The Eataly food emporium plans to open a $55 million theme park in Italy, devoted to the nation's culinary pleasures. Some have dubbed it the \"Disneyland of food,\" but Italians aren't impressed.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1394404715,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":18,"wordCount":481},"headData":{"title":"A Theme Park for Foodies? Italians Say Bologna | KQED","description":"The Eataly food emporium plans to open a $55 million theme park in Italy, devoted to the nation's culinary pleasures. Some have dubbed it the "Disneyland of food," but Italians aren't impressed.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"A Theme Park for Foodies? Italians Say Bologna","datePublished":"2014-03-09T22:38:35.000Z","dateModified":"2014-03-09T22:38:35.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"78953 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=78953","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/03/09/a-theme-park-for-foodies-italians-say-bologna/","disqusTitle":"A Theme Park for Foodies? Italians Say Bologna","nprByline":"Sylvia Poggioli","nprStoryId":"286939246","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=286939246&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/03/09/286939246/a-theme-park-for-foodies-italians-say-bologna?ft=3&f=286939246","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Sun, 09 Mar 2014 14:36:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Sun, 09 Mar 2014 14:36:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Sun, 09 Mar 2014 14:36:37 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/78953/a-theme-park-for-foodies-italians-say-bologna","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78954\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/4416942703_825113d166_o-copy_wide-d3ac7a14f8b5ef4178d6bcb128745f88ae544f29.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/4416942703_825113d166_o-copy_wide-d3ac7a14f8b5ef4178d6bcb128745f88ae544f29-1024x575.jpg\" alt=\"Customers dine at the original Eataly in Turin, Italy, which opened in 2007. Photo: demoshelsinki/Flickr\" width=\"1024\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78954\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Customers dine at the original Eataly in Turin, Italy, which opened in 2007. Photo: demoshelsinki/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2101034/sylvia-poggioli\" target=\"_blank\">Sylvia Poggiolo\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/03/09/286939246/a-theme-park-for-foodies-italians-say-bologna\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/9/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Italy has more \u003ca href=\"http://whc.unesco.org/en/statesparties/IT/\">UNESCO world heritage sites\u003c/a> than any other country in the world, and its art and cultural riches have drawn visitors for centuries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also prides itself on being a culinary mecca, where preparing, cooking and serving meals is a fine, even sacred, art. And now that the country is in the deepest and most protracted recession since World War II, why not cash in on its reputation as a paradise for visiting gourmets and gourmands?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In late February, Oscar Farinetti, who founded the Eataly chain of food emporiums, announced a new plan to help rescue economy: \"Fico Eataly World,\" a theme park devoted entirely to food and wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The project is a joint venture between Eataly and the municipality of Bologna, which is providing 86,000 square feet of land with warehouses to be transformed into food labs, grocery stores and, of course, restaurants. The price tag for the park is estimated at $55 million.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eataly, which has over two dozen branches around the world, was founded in Turin in 2007 by Farinetti, who is CEO and owns a 60 percent share. The other 40 percent is owned by cooperatives of the COOP group of supermarkets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The cooperatives have their roots in the Communist Party that was powerful in the Emilia-Romagna region that surrounds Bologna in the post-war period. The founder of the Slow Food Movement, Carlo Petrini, is also left-leaning, and another example of the ties between the left and the contemporary gastronomy movement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The location for the Eataly theme park could not be more appropriate. Italy has many very different cuisines, but Bologna and Emilia-Romagna are widely, if grudgingly, recognized as the gastronomic capital of Italy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The region is the home of Parmesan cheese, prosciutto di Parma, balsamic vinegar, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/27/tortellini-the-dumpling-inspired-by-venus-navel\">tortellini\u003c/a> and lasagna, among many other delicacies. Since the Middle Ages, the city was known as Bologna La Grassa, Bologna the fat – as in, affluent and epicurean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Bologna is also home to the world's only University of Gelato, as I \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/06/17/italian-gelato-university-ice-cream\">reported\u003c/a> in 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The foreign media has referred to the planned food theme park as a \"Disneyland of Food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when I mentioned the \"Disneyland for foodies\" to people shopping at two well-known Roman outdoor markets, everyone grimaced in disgust.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Sounds like something for tourists,\" Simona Vitali, a middle-aged woman shopping for groceries in Piazza San Cosimato, told me. \"We Italians have no need for such a theme park.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Farinetti \u003ca href=\"http://www.lagazzettadelmezzogiorno.it/english/eataly-planning-mega-food-theme-park-no631090\">told\u003c/a> the online English language service ANSA he hopes the park will draw annually 10 million visitors who will \"play with this magical thing, Italian food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eataly World is scheduled to open Nov. 1, 2015. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/78953/a-theme-park-for-foodies-italians-say-bologna","authors":["byline_bayareabites_78953"],"categories":["bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_64","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_334","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_13146","bayareabites_13147","bayareabites_8685","bayareabites_8646","bayareabites_10921","bayareabites_198"],"featImg":"bayareabites_78959","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_68903":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_68903","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"68903","score":null,"sort":[1377625891000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"tortellini-the-dumpling-inspired-by-venus-navel","title":"Tortellini, The Dumpling Inspired By Venus' Navel","publishDate":1377625891,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68917\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/venus.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/venus.jpg\" alt=\"Even in Sandro Botticelli's painting <em>The Birth of Venus,</em> the goddess's belly resembles a plump, firm tortellino. Image: Wikimedia.org\" width=\"1120\" height=\"693\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68917\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Even in Sandro Botticelli's painting \u003cem>The Birth of Venus,\u003c/em> the goddess's belly resembles a plump, firm tortellino. Image: \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Sandro_Botticelli_-_La_nascita_di_Venere_-_Google_Art_Project_-_edited.jpg\">Wikimedia.org\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/27/210555719/tortellini-the-dumpling-inspired-by-venus-navel\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/08/20130827_me_05.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2101034/sylvia-poggioli\">Sylvia Poggioli\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/27/210555719/tortellini-the-dumpling-inspired-by-venus-navel\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (98/27/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tortellini — small circles of rolled dough folded around a filling — are one of the most renowned members of the Italian pasta family. In the land of their birth, the region near the Italian city of Bologna, they're strictly served as broth-like dumplings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Possibly no foodstuff in Italian cuisine is surrounded by so much history and lore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68916\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortellino.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortellino.jpg\" alt=\"A young boy in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy, shows off a ceramic version of a tortellino during the town's annual celebration of the pasta's nameless inventor.\" width=\"290\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68916\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A young boy in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy, shows off a ceramic version of a tortellino during the town's annual celebration of the pasta's nameless inventor. Photo courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacarbonarablog.it/\">La Carbonara blog\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Legend has it that Venus, the goddess of love, once stayed at the local tavern in the town of \u003ca href=\"https://maps.google.com/maps?q=castelfranco+emilia&ll=44.590467,11.052246&spn=5.664388,8.118896&hnear=Castelfranco+Emilia,+Provincia+di+Modena,+Emilia-Romagna,+Italy&gl=us&t=m&z=7\">Castelfranco Emilia\u003c/a>, halfway between the gastronomic giants Bologna and Modena.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The innkeeper spied on his guest through the keyhole of her room and got a partial glimpse of her. Struck by what he saw, he rushed to his kitchen, rolled out a sheet of fresh egg pasta and invented a shape inspired by Venus' navel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every year, Castelfranco Emilia celebrates its favorite son — the nameless inventor of the most sensual of all pasta shapes. Drummers, flag-throwers and local residents parade through town dressed in elaborate Renaissance costumes. On a makeshift stage, the legend of the peeping-Tom innkeeper is more or less re-enacted. The mood is festive and suitable for children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Inspired by the sight of the divine navel,\" the master of ceremonies intones, \"our innkeeper invents the prestigious ... tortellino!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While its origins may not be in antiquity, the first known tortellino recipe dates to 1570.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gianni degli Angeli is the president of the San Nicola Association, which has taken on the task of safeguarding the local region's renowned culinary traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says the No. 1 symbol of the local gastronomic culture is the tortellino. \"In times of poverty and hardship, we ate tortellini only at Christmas, Easter and at weddings, because the filling is made of costly ingredients like prosciutto and parmesan cheese,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tortellini are an integral part of family life in the Emilia region, says Massimo Bottura, chef and owner of a three-Michelin-star restaurant in Modena. \"I grew up under the kitchen table escaping my older brothers at my grandmother's, where flour fell on my feet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Turning Flour And Eggs Into Tortellini\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWomen from Castelfranco Emilia, Italy, demonstrate how they prepared 180 kilograms of tortellini for the 2012 London Olympics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"single-video\">\u003ciframe width=\"600\" height=\"338\" src=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/event/embeddedVideo.php?storyId=210555719&mediaId=211357601\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/div>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Source: Appeditor 2013 Tutti i diritti riservati\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Credit: Il Tortellino Progetto e realizzazione di Lucia Barbieri, Paola Busani e Monica Ropa\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At an international gathering of famous chefs, he said that tortellini bring out a competitive spirit. \"Every family has its own recipe for tortellini, more Parmigiano, less Parmigiano,\" he says. \"I don't put prosciutto. I want mortadella. There are more discussions about tortellini in our family, in every Emilian family, than about politics.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Politics and soccer are way outranked in Emilia by the desire to eat well — \u003cem>very\u003c/em> well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Making tortellini is an elaborate operation and has long been the domain of women known as \u003cem>sfogline\u003c/em>. The word derives from \u003cem>sfoglia,\u003c/em> the sheet of fresh egg pasta that is painstakingly rolled out by hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grazia Battistini is 63 years old, and she's been a \u003cem>sfoglina\u003c/em> for some 50 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68919\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/sfoglina-tortellini.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/sfoglina-tortellini.jpg\" alt=\"Grazia Battistini, 63, has been been making tortellini as a <em>sfoglina </em>for about 50 years. A statue of the ideal tortellino shape sits in the foreground. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\" width=\"290\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68919\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grazia Battistini, 63, has been been making tortellini as a \u003cem>sfoglina \u003c/em>for about 50 years. A statue of the ideal tortellino shape sits in the foreground. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Grandmothers and mothers handed down the tradition to daughters and granddaughters. We started when we were 7 or 8 years old,\" she says. \"If we couldn't reach the tabletop, they gave us a stool to stand on. Little by little, we learned to roll and then to cut the pasta. We had to be careful not to cut our fingers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For most of her life, Battistini says, making fresh egg pasta was an activity that involved the entire family. \"It was an occasion for socialization,\" she says. \"We were all together, men, women, children, everyone working together collectively.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Battistini gives us a demonstration on a wooden tabletop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For every 4 ounces of flour, we use one egg,\" she says. \"We make a crater in the center of the flour, and we break the eggs in the center and whisk briskly with a fork.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Battistini then starts mixing and scraping, and kneading the dough mostly with the palm of her hands — for at least 10 minutes. Once it's smooth and in the shape of a ball, she sets it aside to rest and starts on the filling, a mixture of prosciutto, mortadella, pork loin, eggs, Parmesan cheese and nutmeg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Battistini then returns to the \u003cem>sfoglia\u003c/em>\u003cem>. \u003c/em>Her entire body sways, rhythmically and sensually, as she stretches the dough over and over again with a rolling pin until it forms a large paper-thin sheet, not more than 1 millimeter thick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the sheet is ready, Battistini starts cutting it in strips and then into little squares 3 centimeters per side. She puts a dab of filling in the center, folds the square into a triangle, presses it, then rolls it around her index finger — out comes the belly-button shaped dumpling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like most Italians, Battistini has little patience for culinary experimentation and observes a rigid dogma in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68920\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortelloni.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortelloni-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Hand-made tortelloni – the larger size — are displayed at a grocery store in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-68920\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hand-made tortelloni – the larger size — are displayed at a grocery store in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The tortellino can \u003cem>only\u003c/em> be served in broth, that's what tradition teaches us. Of course, some people today serve it with butter, cream or tomato sauce, but then they're killing the taste of the filling.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once upon a time, a young man seeking a wife wanted first and foremost a master \u003cem>sfoglina\u003c/em>. But starting in the 1960s, women started working outside the home, and many no longer know how to make fresh egg pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The art of making tortellino is endangered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, a group of young graphic designers from Modena has produced \u003ca href=\"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewSoftware?id=676588559&mt=8\">an app\u003c/a> to safeguard the art of making tortellino, its history and the role in plays in the local culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lucia Barbieri says it's aimed at teaching everyone how to make tortellini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For example, men are showing a keen interest in making tortellino,\" Barbieri says. \"When I get together with a group of friends to make pasta, the men are always most enthusiastic as they learn an art that always belonged to women alone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile in Bologna, a new business opened last fall in the center of town — it's a tortellino-to-go joint, appropriately called Tortellino Bologna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Open every day until midnight, it caters to students, office workers and even housewives. Customers can order online.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's the brainchild of Federico Spisani, who left his job in a bank to embark on an effort to safeguard his grandmother's culinary traditions with a contemporary twist. He has enlisted an army of \u003cem>sfogline\u003c/em> — several of whom are in their 80s — to prepare fresh pasta every day. Servings come in Styrofoam cups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I try to unite the Italian quality of food — the best, in my opinion, in the world, — in a very fast-food way, cheap and fast,\" Spisani says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we leave, two well-dressed, middle-aged women enter the shop circumspectly and, probably hoping nobody will recognize them, they order two servings of takeaway tortellino.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"//instagram.com/p/dhMNP7OIxz/embed/\" width=\"612\" height=\"710\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" allowtransparency=\"true\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Legend has it that an innkeeper caught a glimpse of the goddess of love in her bedroom and then rushed to his kitchen to create an egg pasta inspired by Venus' belly button. Today the art of making tortellini is endangered, but several groups are devising creative ways to preserve the tradition.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1377625891,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":true,"iframeSrcs":["http://www.npr.org/templates/event/embeddedVideo.php","//instagram.com/p/dhMNP7OIxz/embed/"],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":41,"wordCount":1299},"headData":{"title":"Tortellini, The Dumpling Inspired By Venus' Navel | KQED","description":"Legend has it that an innkeeper caught a glimpse of the goddess of love in her bedroom and then rushed to his kitchen to create an egg pasta inspired by Venus' belly button. Today the art of making tortellini is endangered, but several groups are devising creative ways to preserve the tradition.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Tortellini, The Dumpling Inspired By Venus' Navel","datePublished":"2013-08-27T17:51:31.000Z","dateModified":"2013-08-27T17:51:31.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"68903 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=68903","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/27/tortellini-the-dumpling-inspired-by-venus-navel/","disqusTitle":"Tortellini, The Dumpling Inspired By Venus' Navel","nprByline":"Sylvia Poggioli","nprStoryId":"210555719","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=210555719&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/27/210555719/tortellini-the-dumpling-inspired-by-venus-navel?ft=3&f=210555719","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 27 Aug 2013 12:37:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 27 Aug 2013 04:00:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 27 Aug 2013 12:37:23 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/08/20130827_me_05.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1128&ft=3&f=210555719","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1216006342-bfd0c1.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1128&ft=3&f=210555719","path":"/bayareabites/68903/tortellini-the-dumpling-inspired-by-venus-navel","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/08/20130827_me_05.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1128&ft=3&f=210555719","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68917\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/venus.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/venus.jpg\" alt=\"Even in Sandro Botticelli's painting <em>The Birth of Venus,</em> the goddess's belly resembles a plump, firm tortellino. Image: Wikimedia.org\" width=\"1120\" height=\"693\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68917\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Even in Sandro Botticelli's painting \u003cem>The Birth of Venus,\u003c/em> the goddess's belly resembles a plump, firm tortellino. Image: \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Sandro_Botticelli_-_La_nascita_di_Venere_-_Google_Art_Project_-_edited.jpg\">Wikimedia.org\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/27/210555719/tortellini-the-dumpling-inspired-by-venus-navel\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/08/20130827_me_05.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2101034/sylvia-poggioli\">Sylvia Poggioli\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/08/27/210555719/tortellini-the-dumpling-inspired-by-venus-navel\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (98/27/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tortellini — small circles of rolled dough folded around a filling — are one of the most renowned members of the Italian pasta family. In the land of their birth, the region near the Italian city of Bologna, they're strictly served as broth-like dumplings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Possibly no foodstuff in Italian cuisine is surrounded by so much history and lore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68916\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortellino.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortellino.jpg\" alt=\"A young boy in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy, shows off a ceramic version of a tortellino during the town's annual celebration of the pasta's nameless inventor.\" width=\"290\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68916\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A young boy in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy, shows off a ceramic version of a tortellino during the town's annual celebration of the pasta's nameless inventor. Photo courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacarbonarablog.it/\">La Carbonara blog\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Legend has it that Venus, the goddess of love, once stayed at the local tavern in the town of \u003ca href=\"https://maps.google.com/maps?q=castelfranco+emilia&ll=44.590467,11.052246&spn=5.664388,8.118896&hnear=Castelfranco+Emilia,+Provincia+di+Modena,+Emilia-Romagna,+Italy&gl=us&t=m&z=7\">Castelfranco Emilia\u003c/a>, halfway between the gastronomic giants Bologna and Modena.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The innkeeper spied on his guest through the keyhole of her room and got a partial glimpse of her. Struck by what he saw, he rushed to his kitchen, rolled out a sheet of fresh egg pasta and invented a shape inspired by Venus' navel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every year, Castelfranco Emilia celebrates its favorite son — the nameless inventor of the most sensual of all pasta shapes. Drummers, flag-throwers and local residents parade through town dressed in elaborate Renaissance costumes. On a makeshift stage, the legend of the peeping-Tom innkeeper is more or less re-enacted. The mood is festive and suitable for children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Inspired by the sight of the divine navel,\" the master of ceremonies intones, \"our innkeeper invents the prestigious ... tortellino!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While its origins may not be in antiquity, the first known tortellino recipe dates to 1570.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gianni degli Angeli is the president of the San Nicola Association, which has taken on the task of safeguarding the local region's renowned culinary traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says the No. 1 symbol of the local gastronomic culture is the tortellino. \"In times of poverty and hardship, we ate tortellini only at Christmas, Easter and at weddings, because the filling is made of costly ingredients like prosciutto and parmesan cheese,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tortellini are an integral part of family life in the Emilia region, says Massimo Bottura, chef and owner of a three-Michelin-star restaurant in Modena. \"I grew up under the kitchen table escaping my older brothers at my grandmother's, where flour fell on my feet.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Turning Flour And Eggs Into Tortellini\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWomen from Castelfranco Emilia, Italy, demonstrate how they prepared 180 kilograms of tortellini for the 2012 London Olympics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"single-video\">\u003ciframe width=\"600\" height=\"338\" src=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/event/embeddedVideo.php?storyId=210555719&mediaId=211357601\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/div>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Source: Appeditor 2013 Tutti i diritti riservati\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Credit: Il Tortellino Progetto e realizzazione di Lucia Barbieri, Paola Busani e Monica Ropa\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At an international gathering of famous chefs, he said that tortellini bring out a competitive spirit. \"Every family has its own recipe for tortellini, more Parmigiano, less Parmigiano,\" he says. \"I don't put prosciutto. I want mortadella. There are more discussions about tortellini in our family, in every Emilian family, than about politics.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Politics and soccer are way outranked in Emilia by the desire to eat well — \u003cem>very\u003c/em> well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Making tortellini is an elaborate operation and has long been the domain of women known as \u003cem>sfogline\u003c/em>. The word derives from \u003cem>sfoglia,\u003c/em> the sheet of fresh egg pasta that is painstakingly rolled out by hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grazia Battistini is 63 years old, and she's been a \u003cem>sfoglina\u003c/em> for some 50 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68919\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/sfoglina-tortellini.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/sfoglina-tortellini.jpg\" alt=\"Grazia Battistini, 63, has been been making tortellini as a <em>sfoglina </em>for about 50 years. A statue of the ideal tortellino shape sits in the foreground. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\" width=\"290\" class=\"size-full wp-image-68919\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grazia Battistini, 63, has been been making tortellini as a \u003cem>sfoglina \u003c/em>for about 50 years. A statue of the ideal tortellino shape sits in the foreground. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Grandmothers and mothers handed down the tradition to daughters and granddaughters. We started when we were 7 or 8 years old,\" she says. \"If we couldn't reach the tabletop, they gave us a stool to stand on. Little by little, we learned to roll and then to cut the pasta. We had to be careful not to cut our fingers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For most of her life, Battistini says, making fresh egg pasta was an activity that involved the entire family. \"It was an occasion for socialization,\" she says. \"We were all together, men, women, children, everyone working together collectively.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Battistini gives us a demonstration on a wooden tabletop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For every 4 ounces of flour, we use one egg,\" she says. \"We make a crater in the center of the flour, and we break the eggs in the center and whisk briskly with a fork.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Battistini then starts mixing and scraping, and kneading the dough mostly with the palm of her hands — for at least 10 minutes. Once it's smooth and in the shape of a ball, she sets it aside to rest and starts on the filling, a mixture of prosciutto, mortadella, pork loin, eggs, Parmesan cheese and nutmeg.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Battistini then returns to the \u003cem>sfoglia\u003c/em>\u003cem>. \u003c/em>Her entire body sways, rhythmically and sensually, as she stretches the dough over and over again with a rolling pin until it forms a large paper-thin sheet, not more than 1 millimeter thick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the sheet is ready, Battistini starts cutting it in strips and then into little squares 3 centimeters per side. She puts a dab of filling in the center, folds the square into a triangle, presses it, then rolls it around her index finger — out comes the belly-button shaped dumpling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like most Italians, Battistini has little patience for culinary experimentation and observes a rigid dogma in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_68920\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortelloni.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/tortelloni-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Hand-made tortelloni – the larger size — are displayed at a grocery store in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-68920\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hand-made tortelloni – the larger size — are displayed at a grocery store in Castelfranco Emilia, Italy. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The tortellino can \u003cem>only\u003c/em> be served in broth, that's what tradition teaches us. Of course, some people today serve it with butter, cream or tomato sauce, but then they're killing the taste of the filling.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once upon a time, a young man seeking a wife wanted first and foremost a master \u003cem>sfoglina\u003c/em>. But starting in the 1960s, women started working outside the home, and many no longer know how to make fresh egg pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The art of making tortellino is endangered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, a group of young graphic designers from Modena has produced \u003ca href=\"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewSoftware?id=676588559&mt=8\">an app\u003c/a> to safeguard the art of making tortellino, its history and the role in plays in the local culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lucia Barbieri says it's aimed at teaching everyone how to make tortellini.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For example, men are showing a keen interest in making tortellino,\" Barbieri says. \"When I get together with a group of friends to make pasta, the men are always most enthusiastic as they learn an art that always belonged to women alone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile in Bologna, a new business opened last fall in the center of town — it's a tortellino-to-go joint, appropriately called Tortellino Bologna.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Open every day until midnight, it caters to students, office workers and even housewives. Customers can order online.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's the brainchild of Federico Spisani, who left his job in a bank to embark on an effort to safeguard his grandmother's culinary traditions with a contemporary twist. He has enlisted an army of \u003cem>sfogline\u003c/em> — several of whom are in their 80s — to prepare fresh pasta every day. Servings come in Styrofoam cups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I try to unite the Italian quality of food — the best, in my opinion, in the world, — in a very fast-food way, cheap and fast,\" Spisani says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we leave, two well-dressed, middle-aged women enter the shop circumspectly and, probably hoping nobody will recognize them, they order two servings of takeaway tortellino.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"//instagram.com/p/dhMNP7OIxz/embed/\" width=\"612\" height=\"710\" frameborder=\"0\" scrolling=\"no\" allowtransparency=\"true\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/68903/tortellini-the-dumpling-inspired-by-venus-navel","authors":["byline_bayareabites_68903"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_1544","bayareabites_766","bayareabites_8646","bayareabites_11617","bayareabites_10921","bayareabites_12271","bayareabites_12270","bayareabites_12269"],"featImg":"bayareabites_68918","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_65966":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_65966","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"65966","score":null,"sort":[1374385373000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"from-ramen-to-rotini-following-the-noodles-of-the-silk-road","title":"From Ramen To Rotini: Following The Noodles Of The Silk Road ","publishDate":1374385373,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65974\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/wontons.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/wontons.jpg\" alt=\"A member of the staff at the one-Michelin-starred restaurant Ho Hung Kee prepares wontons in Hong Kong. Photo: AFP/AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65974\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A member of the staff at the one-Michelin-starred restaurant Ho Hung Kee prepares wontons in Hong Kong. Photo: AFP/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/20/203298888/from-ramen-to-rotini-following-the-noodles-of-the-silk-road\">Weekend Edition Saturday\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesat/2013/07/20130720_wesat_08.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Anna Haensch, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/20/203298888/from-ramen-to-rotini-following-the-noodles-of-the-silk-road\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (7/20/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Popular lore has it that the Italian merchant Marco Polo was responsible for introducing the noodle to China. This legend appeals to Italians, but if you ask the Chinese, they may beg to differ.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65977\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/silk_route.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/silk_route-290x162.jpg\" alt=\"The Silk Road stretched from Eastern China to Europe and was the primary route for merchants in the ancient Chinese silk trade. Photo: Wikimedia Commons\" width=\"290\" height=\"162\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-65977\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Silk Road stretched from Eastern China to Europe and was the primary route for merchants in the ancient Chinese silk trade. Photo: Wikimedia Commons\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In her latest book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://jenlinliu.com/blog/\">On the Noodle Road\u003c/a>, \u003c/em>author \u003ca href=\"http://jenlinliu.com\">Jen Lin-Liu\u003c/a> chronicles a six-month journey along the historic Silk Road from eastern China, through central Asia, Turkey, Iran and eventually arriving in Italy, in search of the true origin of the noodle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Lin-Liu tells NPR's Linda Wertheimer, the myth of pasta traveling from West to East was first popularized by \u003cem>Macaroni Journal\u003c/em>, the official trade journal of the pasta manufacturers of the U.S. In 1929, the journal had a story \"about how Marco Polo arrived at a destination that seemed more South Pacific than Chinese and came across natives drying strands of dough.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But this couldn't possibly be correct. \"As it turns out, the Chinese don't dry their pasta the way that Italians do,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what are the historical origins of noodles in China?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"China has had a longer tradition of bread than noodles, and the ripping of dough — either boiled or cooked — into a wok of boiling water was how noodles first originated in China,\" says Lin-Liu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the Tibetan province of Qinghai, Lin-Liu finds women in a restaurant kitchen ripping long, flat strands of noodles by hand to make the square-shaped noodles that are typical to the region. Boiled in water, they are served up in a light mutton broth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're the right texture, chewy; just the right size, like a large postage stamp; and they're stir-fried in a spicy broth with bits of green peppers and onions and either lamb or beef. And they're delicious,\" Lin-Liu says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65976\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/manti.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/manti-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"In Turkey, bits of meat are wrapped in squares of pasta to make manti. Photo: thebittenworld/Flickr\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-65976\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In Turkey, bits of meat are wrapped in squares of pasta to make manti. Photo: thebittenworld/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Heading further west, she comes across all manner of small dough parcels containing spiced meats, vegetables and cheeses. The wontons and dumplings of China give way to the \u003cem>manta\u003c/em> of Central Asia, the similarly named \u003cem>manti\u003c/em> of Turkey, and finally, the tortellini of Italy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some people theorized that Ghengis Khan was responsible for carrying these filled pasta dishes all the way from China through Eastern Europe, where of course you have pierogies and other similar dishes,\" says Lin-Liu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But who does pasta best?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think that there's a real toss-up between Italy and China,\" Lin-Liu says. \"At both ends of the Silk Road, you really get a refinement of pasta and noodles that you don't really see in the central part of the route.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But this diversity along the way is what Lin-Liu believes make noodles so pleasurable. Not only can they be prepared in such different ways, but they can be topped with almost anything.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Is it possible that pasta originated in China and traveled west to Italy? Author Jen Lin-Liu travels the historic Silk Road from Beijing to Rome, tracing the evolution of pasta and sampling the offerings along the way.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1374385373,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":18,"wordCount":572},"headData":{"title":"From Ramen To Rotini: Following The Noodles Of The Silk Road | KQED","description":"Is it possible that pasta originated in China and traveled west to Italy? Author Jen Lin-Liu travels the historic Silk Road from Beijing to Rome, tracing the evolution of pasta and sampling the offerings along the way.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"From Ramen To Rotini: Following The Noodles Of The Silk Road ","datePublished":"2013-07-21T05:42:53.000Z","dateModified":"2013-07-21T05:42:53.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"65966 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=65966","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/07/20/from-ramen-to-rotini-following-the-noodles-of-the-silk-road/","disqusTitle":"From Ramen To Rotini: Following The Noodles Of The Silk Road ","nprByline":"Anna Haensch","nprStoryId":"203298888","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=203298888&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/20/203298888/from-ramen-to-rotini-following-the-noodles-of-the-silk-road?ft=3&f=203298888","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Sat, 20 Jul 2013 19:22:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Sat, 20 Jul 2013 08:00:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Sat, 20 Jul 2013 19:22:33 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesat/2013/07/20130720_wesat_08.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=203298888","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1203890638-aa95fb.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=203298888","path":"/bayareabites/65966/from-ramen-to-rotini-following-the-noodles-of-the-silk-road","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesat/2013/07/20130720_wesat_08.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=203298888","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65974\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/wontons.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/wontons.jpg\" alt=\"A member of the staff at the one-Michelin-starred restaurant Ho Hung Kee prepares wontons in Hong Kong. Photo: AFP/AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65974\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A member of the staff at the one-Michelin-starred restaurant Ho Hung Kee prepares wontons in Hong Kong. Photo: AFP/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/20/203298888/from-ramen-to-rotini-following-the-noodles-of-the-silk-road\">Weekend Edition Saturday\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesat/2013/07/20130720_wesat_08.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Anna Haensch, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/07/20/203298888/from-ramen-to-rotini-following-the-noodles-of-the-silk-road\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (7/20/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Popular lore has it that the Italian merchant Marco Polo was responsible for introducing the noodle to China. This legend appeals to Italians, but if you ask the Chinese, they may beg to differ.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65977\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/silk_route.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/silk_route-290x162.jpg\" alt=\"The Silk Road stretched from Eastern China to Europe and was the primary route for merchants in the ancient Chinese silk trade. Photo: Wikimedia Commons\" width=\"290\" height=\"162\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-65977\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Silk Road stretched from Eastern China to Europe and was the primary route for merchants in the ancient Chinese silk trade. Photo: Wikimedia Commons\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In her latest book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://jenlinliu.com/blog/\">On the Noodle Road\u003c/a>, \u003c/em>author \u003ca href=\"http://jenlinliu.com\">Jen Lin-Liu\u003c/a> chronicles a six-month journey along the historic Silk Road from eastern China, through central Asia, Turkey, Iran and eventually arriving in Italy, in search of the true origin of the noodle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Lin-Liu tells NPR's Linda Wertheimer, the myth of pasta traveling from West to East was first popularized by \u003cem>Macaroni Journal\u003c/em>, the official trade journal of the pasta manufacturers of the U.S. In 1929, the journal had a story \"about how Marco Polo arrived at a destination that seemed more South Pacific than Chinese and came across natives drying strands of dough.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But this couldn't possibly be correct. \"As it turns out, the Chinese don't dry their pasta the way that Italians do,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what are the historical origins of noodles in China?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"China has had a longer tradition of bread than noodles, and the ripping of dough — either boiled or cooked — into a wok of boiling water was how noodles first originated in China,\" says Lin-Liu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the Tibetan province of Qinghai, Lin-Liu finds women in a restaurant kitchen ripping long, flat strands of noodles by hand to make the square-shaped noodles that are typical to the region. Boiled in water, they are served up in a light mutton broth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They're the right texture, chewy; just the right size, like a large postage stamp; and they're stir-fried in a spicy broth with bits of green peppers and onions and either lamb or beef. And they're delicious,\" Lin-Liu says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65976\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/manti.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/manti-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"In Turkey, bits of meat are wrapped in squares of pasta to make manti. Photo: thebittenworld/Flickr\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-65976\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In Turkey, bits of meat are wrapped in squares of pasta to make manti. Photo: thebittenworld/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Heading further west, she comes across all manner of small dough parcels containing spiced meats, vegetables and cheeses. The wontons and dumplings of China give way to the \u003cem>manta\u003c/em> of Central Asia, the similarly named \u003cem>manti\u003c/em> of Turkey, and finally, the tortellini of Italy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some people theorized that Ghengis Khan was responsible for carrying these filled pasta dishes all the way from China through Eastern Europe, where of course you have pierogies and other similar dishes,\" says Lin-Liu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But who does pasta best?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think that there's a real toss-up between Italy and China,\" Lin-Liu says. \"At both ends of the Silk Road, you really get a refinement of pasta and noodles that you don't really see in the central part of the route.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But this diversity along the way is what Lin-Liu believes make noodles so pleasurable. Not only can they be prepared in such different ways, but they can be topped with almost anything.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/65966/from-ramen-to-rotini-following-the-noodles-of-the-silk-road","authors":["byline_bayareabites_65966"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34"],"tags":["bayareabites_272","bayareabites_2386","bayareabites_8646","bayareabites_377","bayareabites_755","bayareabites_10921","bayareabites_12059"],"featImg":"bayareabites_65975","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_63555":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_63555","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"63555","score":null,"sort":[1371513110000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"italian-gelato-university-ice-cream","title":"Italian University Spreads The 'Gelato Gospel'","publishDate":1371513110,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63582\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/gelato-university.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/gelato-university-1024x766.jpg\" alt=\"Thousands of students from around the world flock to courses near Bologna, in central Italy, at the headquarters of Carpigiani, the leading global manufacturer of gelato-making machines. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"1024\" height=\"766\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63582\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thousands of students from around the world flock to courses near Bologna, in central Italy, at the headquarters of Carpigiani, the leading global manufacturer of gelato-making machines. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/06/17/189519327/italian-university-spreads-the-gelato-gospel\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/06/20130617_atc_10.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2101034/sylvia-poggioli\">Sylvia Poggioli\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/06/17/189519327/italian-university-spreads-the-gelato-gospel\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (6/17/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Italy has secured its place in the global diet with the likes of espresso, cappuccino, pasta and pizza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The latest addition to the culinary lexicon is ... gelato, the Italian version of ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And despite tough economic times, gelato-making is a booming business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Anzola dell'Emilia, a short drive from the Italian city of Bologna, people from all over the world are lining up for courses in gelato-making.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the headquarters of Carpigiani, the world's biggest gelato machine. Next door are the \u003ca href=\"http://www.gelatouniversity.com/en/index.html?langid=en&lng=en\">Carpigiani Gelato University\u003c/a> and Museum of Gelato Culture and Technology.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A guide explains that gelato has its roots in ancient Mesopotamia, where mountain snow was mixed with fruit and beer for refreshment. She then points to a medieval document, the first written recipe for \u003cem>shrb,\u003c/em> the Arabic word from which \u003cem>sherbet \u003c/em>derives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Creamy gelato can be dated to 16th century Florence, where it was invented by an alchemist in the court of the powerful Medici family. Catherine de Medici introduced the delicacy in France after she married into the French royal family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The museum wall is covered with quotes on the joys of gelato — the French philosopher Voltaire said it's so sublime, it's a wonder it's not illegal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63586\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/gelato-university3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/gelato-university3-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Gelato-making machines through the centuries are on display at the Carpigiani Gelato museum. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63586\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gelato-making machines through the centuries are on display at the Carpigiani Gelato museum. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Gelato was a symbol of ... power,\" says Valentina Righi, vice president of the Carpigiani Foundation. \"Only rich people or aristocrats had ice cellars in their houses, in their palaces, to store the ice during the warm season.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't until the arrival of electricity in the 19th century that frozen desserts became available to all. And modern technology is making artisanal gelato-making fully democratic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The walls of the Gelato University classrooms are lined with shiny stainless steel gelato-making machines. Students wearing white smocks listen attentively to instructor Christian Bonfiglioli give the morning assignment:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're going to start with four sorbets. You can make 6 kilograms total for each recipe,\" he tells the students. \"We have, of course, to prepare also the variegato\" — a gelato of one flavor striped with another — \"so we're going to mix together white chocolate, hazelnut paste and pistachio bean.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The students get to work, mixing the basic gelato ingredients — milk, eggs and sugar — with a variety of nuts, fruits or chocolate. And then the machines start to hum as they blend and cool the mixtures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Carpigiani, the words \"ice cream\" are taboo. The most important difference is fat content: zero in sorbet, 8 percent in a tiramisu or chocolate gelato, compared with 20 to 30 percent fat in industrial ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gelato has a higher density than ice cream, which is pumped with air, and serving gelato at a slightly warmer temperature than ice cream enhances its taste as it melts in your mouth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63583\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/gelato-university1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/gelato-university1-1024x766.jpg\" alt=\"Students prepare ice cream during a course at the Gelato University of Carpigiani in Bologna, Italy, in 2011. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"1024\" height=\"766\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63583\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Students prepare ice cream during a course at the Gelato University of Carpigiani in Bologna, Italy, in 2011. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The secret of great gelato, we're told, is using the best ingredients and making small batches, so it's always fresh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instructor Alice Vignoli travels all over the world giving courses and spreading the gelato gospel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My grandmother do gelato, my mother do gelato, and I always live for gelato,\" she says. \"And for me, gelato is a passion, is not only a job. When I prepare gelato, I have a smile. [It] is a creative job, and you have the possibility to put your soul in your gelato.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since the university was founded in 2003, nearly 7,000 students — more foreigners than Italians — have taken courses ranging from a week to become a gelato maker, to four weeks to earn the title of gelato master.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And artisanal gelato, says Righi, is good business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"To make 1 kilogram of gelato,\" she says, \"you spend in raw materials between 2 and 3 euros every kilogram. And you sell it in Italy minimum at 15-20 euros. So you have got minimum 75 percent of profit margin.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some students, like Haller Alziati, are victims of Europe's economic crisis. He lost his job as a manager at an Italian TV station.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm taking the two-day full immersion course,\" he says. \"I have a big family, six children, and I need to restart my life quickly.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raynold Chan has come to improve his skills for his father's gelato shops in Hong Kong and mainland China.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He sent me over to learn more about gelato,\" Chan says, \"so hopefully, I can introduce the real gelato to the Chinese area.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other students are at a midlife crossroads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cezar Lima, a 50-year-old engineer, and his wife, a dentist, have come from Brazil. \"Me and her, we would like to do something different in the future — career change,\" he says, \"and we would like to change our regular life, to be the owners and have the direction of our lives.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63584\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/gelato-university2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/gelato-university2-1024x766.jpg\" alt=\"Nearly 7,000 students have taken courses at the Gelato University since it was founded in 2003. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"1024\" height=\"766\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63584\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nearly 7,000 students have taken courses at the Gelato University since it was founded in 2003. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Americans Kerri Bancke and her husband, David Rasmussen, plan to open a gelato shop in North Carolina, because they're tired of being constantly on the road working for the Department of Homeland Security. And besides, they just love gelato.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"American ice cream is very industrialized. This is more of an art than just food,\" says Bancke.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rasmussen adds, \"The experience we've had eating gelato here, we'd like to share that experience. Not many people get the chance to just hop on a plane and come over to Italy and try some gelato. ... And for the people who have visited Italy — they'll be able to remember that experience by coming and eating our gelato.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alumni have opened shops all over the world, from Austin, Texas, to Jakarta, Indonesia. And Carpigiani is organizing a World Gelato Tour competition — reaching the U.S. in August and September. The winner in each world region will compete at the grand finale in September 2014 for the title of World's Best Artisan Gelato.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before leaving the Gelato University, we taste some of the students' class work: white coffee and \u003cem>bacio \u003c/em>(kiss), which combines chocolate and hazelnut — creamy and simply scrumptious.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Among the many culinary treats Italy has given the world is gelato, a frozen dessert with roots in ancient Mesopotamia. Gelato lovers from all over the world are flocking to a university outside Bologna, Italy, to master the art of gelato-making. Here's a free lesson: Don't call it ice cream.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1371513110,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":36,"wordCount":1142},"headData":{"title":"Italian University Spreads The 'Gelato Gospel' | KQED","description":"Among the many culinary treats Italy has given the world is gelato, a frozen dessert with roots in ancient Mesopotamia. Gelato lovers from all over the world are flocking to a university outside Bologna, Italy, to master the art of gelato-making. Here's a free lesson: Don't call it ice cream.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Italian University Spreads The 'Gelato Gospel'","datePublished":"2013-06-17T23:51:50.000Z","dateModified":"2013-06-17T23:51:50.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"63555 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=63555","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/06/17/italian-gelato-university-ice-cream/","disqusTitle":"Italian University Spreads The 'Gelato Gospel'","nprByline":"Sylvia Poggioli","nprStoryId":"189519327","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=189519327&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/06/17/189519327/italian-university-spreads-the-gelato-gospel?ft=3&f=189519327","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 17 Jun 2013 17:45:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 17 Jun 2013 15:00:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 17 Jun 2013 17:44:58 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/06/20130617_atc_10.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=189519327","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1192790952-a7658a.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=189519327","path":"/bayareabites/63555/italian-gelato-university-ice-cream","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/06/20130617_atc_10.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=189519327","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63582\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/gelato-university.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/gelato-university-1024x766.jpg\" alt=\"Thousands of students from around the world flock to courses near Bologna, in central Italy, at the headquarters of Carpigiani, the leading global manufacturer of gelato-making machines. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"1024\" height=\"766\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63582\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thousands of students from around the world flock to courses near Bologna, in central Italy, at the headquarters of Carpigiani, the leading global manufacturer of gelato-making machines. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/06/17/189519327/italian-university-spreads-the-gelato-gospel\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2013/06/20130617_atc_10.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2101034/sylvia-poggioli\">Sylvia Poggioli\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/06/17/189519327/italian-university-spreads-the-gelato-gospel\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (6/17/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Italy has secured its place in the global diet with the likes of espresso, cappuccino, pasta and pizza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The latest addition to the culinary lexicon is ... gelato, the Italian version of ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And despite tough economic times, gelato-making is a booming business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Anzola dell'Emilia, a short drive from the Italian city of Bologna, people from all over the world are lining up for courses in gelato-making.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the headquarters of Carpigiani, the world's biggest gelato machine. Next door are the \u003ca href=\"http://www.gelatouniversity.com/en/index.html?langid=en&lng=en\">Carpigiani Gelato University\u003c/a> and Museum of Gelato Culture and Technology.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A guide explains that gelato has its roots in ancient Mesopotamia, where mountain snow was mixed with fruit and beer for refreshment. She then points to a medieval document, the first written recipe for \u003cem>shrb,\u003c/em> the Arabic word from which \u003cem>sherbet \u003c/em>derives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Creamy gelato can be dated to 16th century Florence, where it was invented by an alchemist in the court of the powerful Medici family. Catherine de Medici introduced the delicacy in France after she married into the French royal family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The museum wall is covered with quotes on the joys of gelato — the French philosopher Voltaire said it's so sublime, it's a wonder it's not illegal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63586\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/gelato-university3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/gelato-university3-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Gelato-making machines through the centuries are on display at the Carpigiani Gelato museum. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63586\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gelato-making machines through the centuries are on display at the Carpigiani Gelato museum. Photo: Sylvia Poggioli/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Gelato was a symbol of ... power,\" says Valentina Righi, vice president of the Carpigiani Foundation. \"Only rich people or aristocrats had ice cellars in their houses, in their palaces, to store the ice during the warm season.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't until the arrival of electricity in the 19th century that frozen desserts became available to all. And modern technology is making artisanal gelato-making fully democratic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The walls of the Gelato University classrooms are lined with shiny stainless steel gelato-making machines. Students wearing white smocks listen attentively to instructor Christian Bonfiglioli give the morning assignment:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're going to start with four sorbets. You can make 6 kilograms total for each recipe,\" he tells the students. \"We have, of course, to prepare also the variegato\" — a gelato of one flavor striped with another — \"so we're going to mix together white chocolate, hazelnut paste and pistachio bean.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The students get to work, mixing the basic gelato ingredients — milk, eggs and sugar — with a variety of nuts, fruits or chocolate. And then the machines start to hum as they blend and cool the mixtures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At Carpigiani, the words \"ice cream\" are taboo. The most important difference is fat content: zero in sorbet, 8 percent in a tiramisu or chocolate gelato, compared with 20 to 30 percent fat in industrial ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gelato has a higher density than ice cream, which is pumped with air, and serving gelato at a slightly warmer temperature than ice cream enhances its taste as it melts in your mouth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63583\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/gelato-university1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/gelato-university1-1024x766.jpg\" alt=\"Students prepare ice cream during a course at the Gelato University of Carpigiani in Bologna, Italy, in 2011. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"1024\" height=\"766\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63583\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Students prepare ice cream during a course at the Gelato University of Carpigiani in Bologna, Italy, in 2011. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The secret of great gelato, we're told, is using the best ingredients and making small batches, so it's always fresh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instructor Alice Vignoli travels all over the world giving courses and spreading the gelato gospel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My grandmother do gelato, my mother do gelato, and I always live for gelato,\" she says. \"And for me, gelato is a passion, is not only a job. When I prepare gelato, I have a smile. [It] is a creative job, and you have the possibility to put your soul in your gelato.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since the university was founded in 2003, nearly 7,000 students — more foreigners than Italians — have taken courses ranging from a week to become a gelato maker, to four weeks to earn the title of gelato master.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And artisanal gelato, says Righi, is good business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"To make 1 kilogram of gelato,\" she says, \"you spend in raw materials between 2 and 3 euros every kilogram. And you sell it in Italy minimum at 15-20 euros. So you have got minimum 75 percent of profit margin.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some students, like Haller Alziati, are victims of Europe's economic crisis. He lost his job as a manager at an Italian TV station.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm taking the two-day full immersion course,\" he says. \"I have a big family, six children, and I need to restart my life quickly.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raynold Chan has come to improve his skills for his father's gelato shops in Hong Kong and mainland China.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"He sent me over to learn more about gelato,\" Chan says, \"so hopefully, I can introduce the real gelato to the Chinese area.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other students are at a midlife crossroads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cezar Lima, a 50-year-old engineer, and his wife, a dentist, have come from Brazil. \"Me and her, we would like to do something different in the future — career change,\" he says, \"and we would like to change our regular life, to be the owners and have the direction of our lives.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_63584\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/gelato-university2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/06/gelato-university2-1024x766.jpg\" alt=\"Nearly 7,000 students have taken courses at the Gelato University since it was founded in 2003. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"1024\" height=\"766\" class=\"size-large wp-image-63584\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nearly 7,000 students have taken courses at the Gelato University since it was founded in 2003. Photo: Giuseppe Cacace/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Americans Kerri Bancke and her husband, David Rasmussen, plan to open a gelato shop in North Carolina, because they're tired of being constantly on the road working for the Department of Homeland Security. And besides, they just love gelato.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"American ice cream is very industrialized. This is more of an art than just food,\" says Bancke.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rasmussen adds, \"The experience we've had eating gelato here, we'd like to share that experience. Not many people get the chance to just hop on a plane and come over to Italy and try some gelato. ... And for the people who have visited Italy — they'll be able to remember that experience by coming and eating our gelato.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alumni have opened shops all over the world, from Austin, Texas, to Jakarta, Indonesia. And Carpigiani is organizing a World Gelato Tour competition — reaching the U.S. in August and September. The winner in each world region will compete at the grand finale in September 2014 for the title of World's Best Artisan Gelato.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before leaving the Gelato University, we taste some of the students' class work: white coffee and \u003cem>bacio \u003c/em>(kiss), which combines chocolate and hazelnut — creamy and simply scrumptious.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cbr>\nCopyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/63555/italian-gelato-university-ice-cream","authors":["byline_bayareabites_63555"],"categories":["bayareabites_64","bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34"],"tags":["bayareabites_1298","bayareabites_11847","bayareabites_312","bayareabites_766","bayareabites_8646","bayareabites_11617","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_63582","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_35740":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_35740","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"35740","score":null,"sort":[1325602854000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"artisan-pizza-and-flatbread-in-five-minutes-a-day","title":"Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in Five Minutes a Day","publishDate":1325602854,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/cover_image.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/cover_image.jpg\" alt=\"Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in Five Minutes a Day\" title=\"Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in Five Minutes a Day\" width=\"500\" height=\"399\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36480\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jeff Hertzberg and Zoë Francois of \u003ca href=\"http://www.theculinarylife.com/2010/artisan-bread-in-five-minutes-a-day/\">Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day\u003c/a> fame (and the followup, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0312545525/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=httpwwwwasabi-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399369&creativeASIN=0312545525\">Healthy Bread in Five Minutes a Day\u003c/a>), have just put out the third book in their wildly popular series: \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0312649940/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=httpwwwwasabi-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399373&creativeASIN=0312649940\">Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in Five Minutes a Day\u003c/a>. The duo, which consists of a medical doctor (Jeff) and an award-winning pastry chef (that would be Zoë), have spread their wings and launched an exploration of global flatbreads and the world of flavors that can be paired with them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jeff and Zoë were kind enough to take a break from their busy book tour to answer a few questions for Bay Area Bites readers. Here's a peek into what \u003ca href=\"http://www.theculinarylife.com/2011/artisan-pizza-and-flatbread-in-five-minutes-a-day/\" title=\"Jeff and Zoe Artisan Pizza Interview\">inspired their international journey\u003c/a>, and how they spent an entire year eating countless pizzas. Oh, the sacrifice!\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>This is your third book. Now that you've covered Artisan Bread In Five Minutes a Day and Healthy Bread In Five Minutes a Day, how did you come up with the idea for pizza and flatbreads?\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cstrong>Jeff\u003c/strong>: It seemed to us that the country was being swept up into a high-end pizzeria craze. These places are popping up all over the country, claiming Pizza Vera Napoletana status and all that, but it's a pretty expensive night out and our readers want something they can do at home. Plus, we already knew that the pizzas and flatbreads were clearly the fastest things in our books. After you stretch them flat, they're ready for the oven. That's not true for loaf breads, which need to rest for 45 to 90 minutes after shaping. So pizza and flatbread works for a busy weeknight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Zoë\u003c/strong>: Pizza is one of my favorite foods and this project was an excuse to eat it at every meal. My sons love this book best of all, even after two years of serving them pizza for breakfast, lunch and dinner. In fact, my oldest son now makes his own, start to finish. It is an excellent way to get kids in the kitchen.\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/Jeff-Zoe-PizzaToss-500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/Jeff-Zoe-PizzaToss-500.jpg\" alt=\"Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in Five Minutes a Day\" title=\"Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in Five Minutes a Day\" width=\"500\" height=\"627\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-36481\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>How did working on this book differ from working on the others?\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Jeff\u003c/strong>: It meant thinking back to all my travel experiences around the Mediterranean -- so for me, that's Spain, Morocco, Italy, and France. When I travel, I eat, and that's how I categorize everything. This book was basically a travelogue for me, because these breads originated in the Middle East, and spread by water. It's my favorite part of the world. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Zoë\u003c/strong>: I took my family on a research trip to Turkey, Greece and Italy. We ate our way through the countries and then I came home to recreate the flavors. It was so inspiring and I discovered a whole new world of spices being in Turkey. This book is a real adventure of flavors, beyond the pizzas that we all know and love.\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/little-bowls.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/little-bowls.jpg\" alt=\"Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in Five Minutes a Day\" title=\"Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in Five Minutes a Day\" width=\"500\" height=\"627\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-36482\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Besides the obvious pizza topic, how is Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in Five Minutes a Day different from Artisan Bread and Healthy Bread? How is it similar?\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Jeff\u003c/strong>: What's similar is that we start with dough that we optimized for long-term storage in the fridge-- up to two weeks for doughs without eggs or dairy. That's what changes everything, because you mix once, and bake up to eight half-pound pizzas, and it makes doing this nightly possible. And we have whole grain and gluten-free options in the book. So what's different? For one thing, it's a whole book of offbeat and familiar pizza toppings, fully explored. Then, about the doughs -- for the whole grain, we didn't need vital wheat gluten for this book (as we did in Healthy Bread in Five Minutes a Day) because these don't have to support a tall loaf, so less structure is needed. And in our white dough recipes, we ventured into the territory of true Italian-style flours and how to approximate them with more readily-available stuff. And, in this book, we wanted to get into our readers' entire meal, so there are more soups and dips than in our other books. These breads can form the basis for everything you eat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Zoë\u003c/strong>: We also try to make our books a tool to help people feel confident about baking everything from simple breads to a roasted-vegetable stuffed, Italian torta. Our Tips and Techniques chapters are as valuable as the recipes themselves. We want to teach people to bake, so they share the joy we get from it.\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\nFor more about Jeff and Zoë, you can visit their blog, \u003ca href=\"http://www.artisanbreadinfive.com/\" title=\"Artisan Bread in Five\">artisanbreadinfive.com\u003c/a>. And try their \u003ca href=\"http://www.theculinarylife.com/2009/gluten-free-brioche-recipe/\" title=\"Gluten Free Brioche Recipe\">gluten-free brioche recipe\u003c/a>!\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Jeff Hertzberg and Zoe Francois have spread their wings and launched an exploration of global flatbreads and the world of flavors that can be paired with them.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1324783021,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":12,"wordCount":813},"headData":{"title":"Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in Five Minutes a Day | KQED","description":"Jeff Hertzberg and Zoe Francois have spread their wings and launched an exploration of global flatbreads and the world of flavors that can be paired with them.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in Five Minutes a Day","datePublished":"2012-01-03T15:00:54.000Z","dateModified":"2011-12-25T03:17:01.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"35740 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=35740","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/03/artisan-pizza-and-flatbread-in-five-minutes-a-day/","disqusTitle":"Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in Five Minutes a Day","path":"/bayareabites/35740/artisan-pizza-and-flatbread-in-five-minutes-a-day","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/cover_image.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/cover_image.jpg\" alt=\"Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in Five Minutes a Day\" title=\"Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in Five Minutes a Day\" width=\"500\" height=\"399\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36480\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jeff Hertzberg and Zoë Francois of \u003ca href=\"http://www.theculinarylife.com/2010/artisan-bread-in-five-minutes-a-day/\">Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day\u003c/a> fame (and the followup, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0312545525/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=httpwwwwasabi-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399369&creativeASIN=0312545525\">Healthy Bread in Five Minutes a Day\u003c/a>), have just put out the third book in their wildly popular series: \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0312649940/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=httpwwwwasabi-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399373&creativeASIN=0312649940\">Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in Five Minutes a Day\u003c/a>. The duo, which consists of a medical doctor (Jeff) and an award-winning pastry chef (that would be Zoë), have spread their wings and launched an exploration of global flatbreads and the world of flavors that can be paired with them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jeff and Zoë were kind enough to take a break from their busy book tour to answer a few questions for Bay Area Bites readers. Here's a peek into what \u003ca href=\"http://www.theculinarylife.com/2011/artisan-pizza-and-flatbread-in-five-minutes-a-day/\" title=\"Jeff and Zoe Artisan Pizza Interview\">inspired their international journey\u003c/a>, and how they spent an entire year eating countless pizzas. Oh, the sacrifice!\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>This is your third book. Now that you've covered Artisan Bread In Five Minutes a Day and Healthy Bread In Five Minutes a Day, how did you come up with the idea for pizza and flatbreads?\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cstrong>Jeff\u003c/strong>: It seemed to us that the country was being swept up into a high-end pizzeria craze. These places are popping up all over the country, claiming Pizza Vera Napoletana status and all that, but it's a pretty expensive night out and our readers want something they can do at home. Plus, we already knew that the pizzas and flatbreads were clearly the fastest things in our books. After you stretch them flat, they're ready for the oven. That's not true for loaf breads, which need to rest for 45 to 90 minutes after shaping. So pizza and flatbread works for a busy weeknight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Zoë\u003c/strong>: Pizza is one of my favorite foods and this project was an excuse to eat it at every meal. My sons love this book best of all, even after two years of serving them pizza for breakfast, lunch and dinner. In fact, my oldest son now makes his own, start to finish. It is an excellent way to get kids in the kitchen.\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/Jeff-Zoe-PizzaToss-500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/Jeff-Zoe-PizzaToss-500.jpg\" alt=\"Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in Five Minutes a Day\" title=\"Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in Five Minutes a Day\" width=\"500\" height=\"627\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-36481\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>How did working on this book differ from working on the others?\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Jeff\u003c/strong>: It meant thinking back to all my travel experiences around the Mediterranean -- so for me, that's Spain, Morocco, Italy, and France. When I travel, I eat, and that's how I categorize everything. This book was basically a travelogue for me, because these breads originated in the Middle East, and spread by water. It's my favorite part of the world. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Zoë\u003c/strong>: I took my family on a research trip to Turkey, Greece and Italy. We ate our way through the countries and then I came home to recreate the flavors. It was so inspiring and I discovered a whole new world of spices being in Turkey. This book is a real adventure of flavors, beyond the pizzas that we all know and love.\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/little-bowls.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/little-bowls.jpg\" alt=\"Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in Five Minutes a Day\" title=\"Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in Five Minutes a Day\" width=\"500\" height=\"627\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-36482\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Besides the obvious pizza topic, how is Artisan Pizza and Flatbread in Five Minutes a Day different from Artisan Bread and Healthy Bread? How is it similar?\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Jeff\u003c/strong>: What's similar is that we start with dough that we optimized for long-term storage in the fridge-- up to two weeks for doughs without eggs or dairy. That's what changes everything, because you mix once, and bake up to eight half-pound pizzas, and it makes doing this nightly possible. And we have whole grain and gluten-free options in the book. So what's different? For one thing, it's a whole book of offbeat and familiar pizza toppings, fully explored. Then, about the doughs -- for the whole grain, we didn't need vital wheat gluten for this book (as we did in Healthy Bread in Five Minutes a Day) because these don't have to support a tall loaf, so less structure is needed. And in our white dough recipes, we ventured into the territory of true Italian-style flours and how to approximate them with more readily-available stuff. And, in this book, we wanted to get into our readers' entire meal, so there are more soups and dips than in our other books. These breads can form the basis for everything you eat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Zoë\u003c/strong>: We also try to make our books a tool to help people feel confident about baking everything from simple breads to a roasted-vegetable stuffed, Italian torta. Our Tips and Techniques chapters are as valuable as the recipes themselves. We want to teach people to bake, so they share the joy we get from it.\u003cbr>\n \u003cbr>\nFor more about Jeff and Zoë, you can visit their blog, \u003ca href=\"http://www.artisanbreadinfive.com/\" title=\"Artisan Bread in Five\">artisanbreadinfive.com\u003c/a>. And try their \u003ca href=\"http://www.theculinarylife.com/2009/gluten-free-brioche-recipe/\" title=\"Gluten Free Brioche Recipe\">gluten-free brioche recipe\u003c/a>!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/35740/artisan-pizza-and-flatbread-in-five-minutes-a-day","authors":["5120"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588"],"tags":["bayareabites_2097","bayareabites_8646","bayareabites_9984","bayareabites_9983","bayareabites_443","bayareabites_14743","bayareabites_9985"],"featImg":"bayareabites_36480","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_20347":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_20347","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"20347","score":null,"sort":[1293304016000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"memories-of-an-italian-christmas","title":"Memories of an Italian Christmas ","publishDate":1293304016,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/buon-natale.jpg\" alt=\"Buon Natale!\" title=\"Buon Natale!\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-20386\">Buon Natale!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are a lot of reasons that we love Italy here in San Francisco. The heritage of our city, caught in the hiss of a thousand espresso machines every morning and the beckoning scent of chopped garlic sizzling in olive oil at night, is a melting pot, to be sure, but a fine portion of the pot can be traced back to Genoa and Liguria, Venice and Rome, Sicily and Sardinia. Here, like there, we make wine, press olives, harvest rosemary from the hillsides and basil from our backyards. And naturally, we eat, drink, and talk about eating and drinking with gusto and boundless energy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>December in Bologna, where I used to live, looks a lot like a slow-food, un-commercial dream of Christmas: no tinsel, no \u003cem>Jingle Bells\u003c/em>, just pine boughs across the windowsills, tiny white lights looped across the narrow streets radiating off the central square, and in the steamy-windowed caffes, thick-as-pudding ciccolatta calda (hot chocolate) topped with a snowball of whipped cream. The busiest shops are the ones selling food, no surprise in a city that's been obsessed with seeking both knowledge (the University of Bologna is one of Europe's oldest seats of learning) and the pleasures of the table for centuries. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No Italian, it seems, can set foot in another's home at Christmastime without bringing a panettone, a puffy yeasted sweet bread studded with candied fruit. And so, brightly colored boxes the size of football helmets were stacked 10 deep at every shop, some lavishly striped with chocolate-hazelnut \u003cem>gianduia,\u003c/em> others the simplest plain \u003cem>pane d'oro,\u003c/em> without nuts or fruit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(And once they go on sale, the week after Christmas--we scored ours for 1 euro--they make extravagantly delicious French toast, especially after a New Year's Eve spent elbow-to-elbow in the main plaza watching fireworks and downing prosecco straight from the bottle.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the euro, panettone are ubiquitous throughout Italy now, with no particular regional association. But everywhere the panettone was, so was the local specialty, certosino, a flat, glossy spiced fruitcake glistening with translucent candied cherries and nuts. In the pasta shops, between the usual trays of eggy fresh tagliatelle were heaps of tiny, hand-pinched tortellini, the pride of Bologna, filled with a rich mixture of veal and mortadella and ready to be floated in golden capon broth to start the Christmas dinner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the butcher shops, fat zampone the size of a baby's pudgy arm were on proud display. There's no delicate way to describe zampone: it's a pig's trotter, bones removed, packed with a savory meat stuffing and then sewn back up so that it looks ready to walk. Simmered a long time, then served with lentils, it's a traditional dish in Emilia-Romagna, especially around New Year's. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the sweet shops, there were shiny boxes of dreamy, hazelnut-layered Fiat Cremino and Fiat Noir chocolates, made by Majani, but also chunks of \u003cem>carbone,\u003c/em> crunchy lumps of rock candy dyed black to look like coal. (It seems naughty Italian children are also in danger of getting coal for Christmas.) Santa Claus, that jolly toy-toting American immigrant, has made some inroads, but traditionally, gifts for children come not on Christmas Day but on Epiphany, delivered by a beneficent witch known as \u003cem>La Befana.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We saw her--or at least a convincing, black-shawled version of her--riding in a carriage through the streets of Bologna on the morning of January 6. A well-dressed older gentleman ahead of us, cellphone pressed to his ear, turned his head as she rode by. \"Ah, ecco La Befana!\" he said, in perfect seriousness, before resuming his conversation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bologna loves its salume (it is the home of mortadella, bastardized here into baloney) and its culatello, not to mention the sweet-salty proscuitto produced in nearby Parma. That Christmas, I learned the way to get the best proscuitto was to follow hard on the heels of the bossiest elderly lady customer in the shop. Once she'd picked out, after much discussion, the exact haunch of proscuitto she wanted out of the many in the shop, I'd hover in her wake. As soon as her purchase was wrapped up, I'd hustle to the counter, before the leg could be lifted off the slicer, and request a few \u003cem>etti\u003c/em> (100 grams) of \u003cem>lo stesso\u003c/em> (the same). (This technique can also be used very successfully re: smoked salmon in Jewish delis.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another tradition that really came into its own at this time of year was the \u003cem>aperitivi\u003c/em> spread. No corner caffe-bar would dream of serving drinks without putting out a little free something to snack on. It could be just little squares of leftover panini and a bowl of olives, or a whole mini-buffet, but it's common throughout Italy in the evening. Only in Bologna does aperitivi happen before lunch, too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, \u003cem>perche non?\u003c/em> The holidays seemed like a great time to take advantage of this, especially when friends came to visit. It was a cultural mandate, after all. After a Christmas Eve morning spent browsing through churches (each with an extravagant creche on display), excellent chocolate shops, and tiny, fiercely bustling cheese stores (but giving the equine butcher shops--marked by the golden horse heads out front--a wide berth), we ducked into a nearby caffe for a couple glasses of prosecco. The counter was loaded with an especially lavish display of tasty little snacks for the taking--craggy chunks of parmesan and cubes of mortadella, proscuitto wrapped around the skinny bread sticks known as \u003cem>grissini,\u003c/em> olives, sweet roasted red peppers, artichoke hearts, a hot cheese dip kept warm over a candle--and the perpetually chic Italians around us were happily munching. Behind the counter, one of the equally chic workers paused and held up her own glass of bubbles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Buon Natale!\" she said, looking out over the bar. \"Buon Natale a tutti!\"\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Buon Natale!\r\n\r\nThere are a lot of reasons that we love Italy here in San Francisco. The heritage of our city, caught in the hiss of a thousand espresso machines every morning and the beckoning scent of chopped garlic sizzling in olive oil at night, is a melting pot, to be sure, but a fine portion of the pot can be traced back to Genoa and Liguria, Venice and Rome, Sicily and Sardinia. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1293467666,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":15,"wordCount":1002},"headData":{"title":"Memories of an Italian Christmas | KQED","description":"Buon Natale!\r\n\r\nThere are a lot of reasons that we love Italy here in San Francisco. The heritage of our city, caught in the hiss of a thousand espresso machines every morning and the beckoning scent of chopped garlic sizzling in olive oil at night, is a melting pot, to be sure, but a fine portion of the pot can be traced back to Genoa and Liguria, Venice and Rome, Sicily and Sardinia. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Memories of an Italian Christmas ","datePublished":"2010-12-25T19:06:56.000Z","dateModified":"2010-12-27T16:34:26.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"20347 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=20347","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/12/25/memories-of-an-italian-christmas/","disqusTitle":"Memories of an Italian Christmas ","path":"/bayareabites/20347/memories-of-an-italian-christmas","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/buon-natale.jpg\" alt=\"Buon Natale!\" title=\"Buon Natale!\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-20386\">Buon Natale!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are a lot of reasons that we love Italy here in San Francisco. The heritage of our city, caught in the hiss of a thousand espresso machines every morning and the beckoning scent of chopped garlic sizzling in olive oil at night, is a melting pot, to be sure, but a fine portion of the pot can be traced back to Genoa and Liguria, Venice and Rome, Sicily and Sardinia. Here, like there, we make wine, press olives, harvest rosemary from the hillsides and basil from our backyards. And naturally, we eat, drink, and talk about eating and drinking with gusto and boundless energy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>December in Bologna, where I used to live, looks a lot like a slow-food, un-commercial dream of Christmas: no tinsel, no \u003cem>Jingle Bells\u003c/em>, just pine boughs across the windowsills, tiny white lights looped across the narrow streets radiating off the central square, and in the steamy-windowed caffes, thick-as-pudding ciccolatta calda (hot chocolate) topped with a snowball of whipped cream. The busiest shops are the ones selling food, no surprise in a city that's been obsessed with seeking both knowledge (the University of Bologna is one of Europe's oldest seats of learning) and the pleasures of the table for centuries. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>No Italian, it seems, can set foot in another's home at Christmastime without bringing a panettone, a puffy yeasted sweet bread studded with candied fruit. And so, brightly colored boxes the size of football helmets were stacked 10 deep at every shop, some lavishly striped with chocolate-hazelnut \u003cem>gianduia,\u003c/em> others the simplest plain \u003cem>pane d'oro,\u003c/em> without nuts or fruit. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(And once they go on sale, the week after Christmas--we scored ours for 1 euro--they make extravagantly delicious French toast, especially after a New Year's Eve spent elbow-to-elbow in the main plaza watching fireworks and downing prosecco straight from the bottle.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the euro, panettone are ubiquitous throughout Italy now, with no particular regional association. But everywhere the panettone was, so was the local specialty, certosino, a flat, glossy spiced fruitcake glistening with translucent candied cherries and nuts. In the pasta shops, between the usual trays of eggy fresh tagliatelle were heaps of tiny, hand-pinched tortellini, the pride of Bologna, filled with a rich mixture of veal and mortadella and ready to be floated in golden capon broth to start the Christmas dinner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the butcher shops, fat zampone the size of a baby's pudgy arm were on proud display. There's no delicate way to describe zampone: it's a pig's trotter, bones removed, packed with a savory meat stuffing and then sewn back up so that it looks ready to walk. Simmered a long time, then served with lentils, it's a traditional dish in Emilia-Romagna, especially around New Year's. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the sweet shops, there were shiny boxes of dreamy, hazelnut-layered Fiat Cremino and Fiat Noir chocolates, made by Majani, but also chunks of \u003cem>carbone,\u003c/em> crunchy lumps of rock candy dyed black to look like coal. (It seems naughty Italian children are also in danger of getting coal for Christmas.) Santa Claus, that jolly toy-toting American immigrant, has made some inroads, but traditionally, gifts for children come not on Christmas Day but on Epiphany, delivered by a beneficent witch known as \u003cem>La Befana.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We saw her--or at least a convincing, black-shawled version of her--riding in a carriage through the streets of Bologna on the morning of January 6. A well-dressed older gentleman ahead of us, cellphone pressed to his ear, turned his head as she rode by. \"Ah, ecco La Befana!\" he said, in perfect seriousness, before resuming his conversation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bologna loves its salume (it is the home of mortadella, bastardized here into baloney) and its culatello, not to mention the sweet-salty proscuitto produced in nearby Parma. That Christmas, I learned the way to get the best proscuitto was to follow hard on the heels of the bossiest elderly lady customer in the shop. Once she'd picked out, after much discussion, the exact haunch of proscuitto she wanted out of the many in the shop, I'd hover in her wake. As soon as her purchase was wrapped up, I'd hustle to the counter, before the leg could be lifted off the slicer, and request a few \u003cem>etti\u003c/em> (100 grams) of \u003cem>lo stesso\u003c/em> (the same). (This technique can also be used very successfully re: smoked salmon in Jewish delis.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another tradition that really came into its own at this time of year was the \u003cem>aperitivi\u003c/em> spread. No corner caffe-bar would dream of serving drinks without putting out a little free something to snack on. It could be just little squares of leftover panini and a bowl of olives, or a whole mini-buffet, but it's common throughout Italy in the evening. Only in Bologna does aperitivi happen before lunch, too. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, \u003cem>perche non?\u003c/em> The holidays seemed like a great time to take advantage of this, especially when friends came to visit. It was a cultural mandate, after all. After a Christmas Eve morning spent browsing through churches (each with an extravagant creche on display), excellent chocolate shops, and tiny, fiercely bustling cheese stores (but giving the equine butcher shops--marked by the golden horse heads out front--a wide berth), we ducked into a nearby caffe for a couple glasses of prosecco. The counter was loaded with an especially lavish display of tasty little snacks for the taking--craggy chunks of parmesan and cubes of mortadella, proscuitto wrapped around the skinny bread sticks known as \u003cem>grissini,\u003c/em> olives, sweet roasted red peppers, artichoke hearts, a hot cheese dip kept warm over a candle--and the perpetually chic Italians around us were happily munching. Behind the counter, one of the equally chic workers paused and held up her own glass of bubbles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Buon Natale!\" she said, looking out over the bar. \"Buon Natale a tutti!\"\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/20347/memories-of-an-italian-christmas","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_8649","bayareabites_558","bayareabites_8646","bayareabites_8648","bayareabites_14745"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. 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But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.","airtime":"THU 10pm, FRI 1am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Commonwealth Club of California"},"link":"/radio/program/commonwealth-club","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Commonwealth-Club-of-California-p1060/"}},"considerthis":{"id":"considerthis","title":"Consider This","tagline":"Make sense of the day","info":"Make sense of the day. Every weekday afternoon, Consider This helps you consider the major stories of the day in less than 15 minutes, featuring the reporting and storytelling resources of NPR. 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