Apparently the magic at Ramen Shop happens in threes, just like the trio of owners. Each course -- appetizers, ramen and dessert -- listed only three items, so we decided to be decadent diners and order the entire menu. We began with a plate of pickled vegetables that included an assortment of foraged wild matsutake mushrooms, broccoli stems, carrots and watermelon radishes ($5). This starter was followed by a delicious little gems lettuce and grapefruit salad tossed with green goddess dressing and brightened by hints of fish sauce, mint and cilantro ($10). The wild nettle fried rice with Monterey Bay squid and chili paste ($9) was my personal favorite with its mildly spicy and savory flavors.

Assorted pickles: matsutake mushrooms, broccoli stems, carrots and watermelon radishes (Jenny Oh)

Little gems lettuce salad with green goddess dressing, fish sauce and cilantro (Jenny Oh)

Wild nettle fried rice with Monterey Bay squid and chili paste (Jenny Oh)

Onto the signature dish: the ramen, which arrived in deep, handmade ceramic bowls. The evening specials featured a vegetarian miso ramen with matsusake mushrooms, Mendocino nori, salt-cured egg, sesame and green garlic ($13); Meyer lemon ramen with salt-cured egg, spit-roasted chashu and mizuna ($15); Tonkotsu (pork bone) ramen with soy-marinated egg, spit-roasted chashu, shungiku and black garlic oil ($16).

The chefs' Californian sensibility was most evident with the Meyer lemon ramen. Despite its unusual citrusy notes, I found the broth to be too understated in its flavors -- especially in comparison to the other ramen dishes. The Tonkotsu's soup was smoky and truly imparted the salty, rich taste of pork, while the miso ramen's broth was densely packed with complex flavors. There was definitely much care and preparation in the noodles -- due to the tutelage the chefs received overseas -- which were perfectly light and springy. The eggs and vegetable garnishes were fine accompaniments, although we were admittedly disappointed by the serving of only one slice of the pork with the non-vegetarian ramen.

Veggie miso ramen with mushrooms, Mendocino nori, salt-cured egg, sesame and green garlic (Jenny Oh)

Tonkotsu ramen with soy-marinated egg, spit-roasted chashu, shungiku and black garlic oil (Jenny Oh)

Meyer lemon ramen with salt-cured egg, spit-roasted chashu and mizuna (Jenny Oh)

Dessert was a trio of ice cream sandwiches, all were $5 each and presented with a side of Meyer lemon gelée: black sesame ice cream with a brown sugar cookie; amarena cherry ice cream with a chocolate cookie; pineapple lime ice cream with a vanilla cookie. The pineapple confection was far too sweet and piña colada-esque for our taste, but the other two were among the highlights of our meal.

Black sesame ice cream with brown sugar cookie (Jenny Oh)

Amarena cherry ice cream with chocolate cookie (Jenny Oh)

Pineapple lime ice cream with vanilla cookie (Jenny Oh)

As we finished up our dinner, we noticed the lounge had filled up to capacity with patrons eagerly waiting for an empty table. I'm sure Ramen Shop's locally-sourced, seasonally-driven take on these beloved noodles will become a neighborhood staple, just like the perennially popular Zachary's Pizza located right across the street. Maybe even some South Bay folks will travel northward to see how it compares to their own nearby favorites.

Ramen Shop
Address: Map

5812 College Avenue
Oakland, CA
Ph: 510-788-6370

Schedule:
4PM to midnight, except Tuesdays
No reservations

Twitter: @ramenoakland

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