In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs. When the batter has cooled, pour half the egg into the batter and beat until incorporated. Add the remaining egg and beat until incorporated. After each egg is added, the mixture separates and appears shiny, but it returns to a smooth paste with vigorous beating. Add the thyme or chives and gruyere and beat until incorporated. Let the paste cool for 10 minutes.

Position 2 racks evenly in the oven and preheat to 425°F (220°C). Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Fit a pastry bag with a 5⁄8-inch (1.5-cm) plain tip and fill the bag with the paste. For each gougère, pipe about 2 tsp paste onto a prepared pan, forming a mound about 1 inch (2.5 mm) in diameter. Space the mounds at least 2 inches (5 cm) apart. You should have about 36 gougères.

Bake for 8 minutes, then reduce the heat to 375°F (190°C), quickly swap the pans, and continue baking until golden brown, about 13 minutes. Serve at once (they will be a bit more gooey on the inside) or prop the oven door open with a wooden spoon and allow the puffs to dry out a bit more, about 5 minutes.

GougèresGougères

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