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We never think about it as a drug or an addiction, but that's exactly what it is,\" Pollan says. \"I thought, why not explore that relationship?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pollan's new audiobook, \u003cem>Caffeine, \u003c/em>explores the science of caffeine addiction and withdrawal — and the broader impact coffee and tea have had on the modern world. Caffeine, he says, is a powerful drug that alters the brain in surprising ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There are studies that show that people's both \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5107567/\">mental performance\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19088794-caffeine-and-sports-performance/\">athletic performance\u003c/a> are improved by coffee,\" he says. \"If you have a cup of coffee after you've learned something or read a textbook chapter, you are more likely to test better on it the next day.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was only when he quit caffeine cold turkey that Pollan fully appreciated the mental and psychological boost his morning cup of coffee had provided: \"I just couldn't focus,\" he says. \"I lost confidence. The whole book seemed like a really stupid idea. And loss of confidence is actually listed as one of the symptoms of caffeine withdrawal.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eventually the withdrawal symptoms subsided. Pollan lasted three months without caffeine — during which time, he says, his quality of sleep improved markedly. But now his research is complete and he's returned to his daily caffeine fix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think the word 'addiction' has a lot of moral baggage attached to it,\" he says. \"As [Johns Hopkins researcher] Roland Griffeth told me, if you have a steady supply of something, you can afford it and it's not interfering with your life, there's nothing wrong with being addicted.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview highlights \u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On his experience of giving up caffeine for three months\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The thing that really struck me was that I've never had [attention deficit hyperactivity disorder]. I can focus pretty well. I felt like, oh, this is what ADHD is like. I can't keep stuff out of the peripheries. The peripheral information and sense data keeps rushing in and getting in the way. I felt like I was a horse that had taken its blinders off, and suddenly I could see too many degrees of circumference. So that was a real problem for working. I really had trouble sitting and writing and staying still.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After a few days, this began to lift. I think anyone who delays having their morning cup of coffee knows what I'm talking about, but there was a kind of a sense of a veil or fog that had descended between me and reality. I was just kind of muzzy-headed and that gradually lifted. But I have to say, even weeks later, I felt like there was a little mental hitch between me and reality. I felt as if this wasn't my natural language — speaking in another language, which never goes that well or that smoothly. ... I got over it eventually, and I wrote a big chunk of the piece without the influence of caffeine. ... But it was an interesting three months. I recommend it actually. I think it's a really interesting exercise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how going without caffeine improved his sleep \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was amazing. I was sleeping like a teenager again. I would pop off, and just sleep through the night — which I don't do that often. And I had some great sleeps. I guess that was the the big compensating benefit of giving up caffeine. ... Caffeine is the enemy of good sleep. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a problem in ways we don't perceive, because caffeine undermines the quality — not necessarily the quantity — but the quality of our sleep. And specifically, one very particular kind of sleep, which I'd never heard of before, called \"slow wave\" or \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2019/10/31/775068218/how-deep-sleep-may-help-the-brain-clear-alzheimers-toxins\">deep sleep\u003c/a>. This isn't REM sleep where you're having dreams, or light sleep. This is a really deep place you go for not that long a part of the night, but it's really important to your mental and physical health. It's where these slow waves start radiating from the front of your brain into the back, and they kind of harmonize all the neurons, get them on the same page. It's where you kind of take memories from short-term working memory and put them in their proper place. It's like cleaning up the desktop on your computer at the end of the day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2017/10/16/558058812/sleep-scientist-warns-against-walking-through-life-in-an-underslept-state\">Matt Walker\u003c/a>, the psychologist who wrote \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/books/titles/558061359/why-we-sleep-unlocking-the-power-of-sleep-and-dreams\">\u003cem>Why We Sleep\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, thinks that this is very important to our health to have sufficient amounts of deep sleep. As we get older, we have less of it naturally. And coffee or tea cuts into that, even if you stop drinking it, say, at noon, because caffeine has a very long half-life and quarter-life. So, for example, the caffeine you ingest at noon — a quarter of it is still circulating in your bloodstream at midnight. It's still around. And this is the subtle and, perhaps, insidious effect it's having on you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how caffeine withdrawal works \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's beginning when you wake up. I mean, you haven't had coffee or tea since sometime the day before. ... All those people who tell you, \"I'm not civil\" [or] \"I'm not fit for human conversation until I have a cup of coffee.\" They're beginning to go through that withdrawal. They're starting to feel a little off — that muzzy-ness is coming in. Maybe they have a headache. Maybe they're a little irritable. And then they have that cup of coffee and the pleasure they're getting from it, I learned, is not simply the lift, the euphoric lift of the drug. It's the suppression of the symptoms of withdrawal. We go through that cycle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the things you learn when you take a caffeine fast, as I did, is that the experience of caffeine is very different to a caffeine virgin or a restored caffeine virgin, as I was, than it is to someone who's addicted. Those people [who are addicted] are getting a little bit of lift, but mostly what they're getting is the relief from these symptoms that are about to come down on them. And that feels pretty good. You're back to baseline. But when you're off for a few months, man, it's something else. It's a very powerful drug experience. And I was not prepared for it at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how caffeine keeps us alert\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We have a neurotransmitter called \u003ca href=\"https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Adenosine\">adenosine\u003c/a>. ... Over the course of the day, levels of it rise and its job is to gradually make us tired — create what's called \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/transcripts/705224359?storyId=705224359?storyId=705224359\">sleep pressure\u003c/a>. So, eventually, we turn out the lights and go to sleep, [and] there is a receptor that the adenosine fits into. And, as it turns out, caffeine fits into the same receptor — it gets there before the adenosine has a chance to. So it essentially blocks the action of that neurotransmitter — you never get the signal that you're tired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size='large' align='right' citation='Michael Pollan']'Caffeine really helps capitalism conquer the frontier of night. ... To break those circadian rhythms is a huge deal.'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eventually, though, the adenosine — it's not like it goes away. It keeps building up the level in your bloodstream, keeps building up, so that when the caffeine is finally metabolized and the receptors are available again. Voom! You get hit by a flood of adenosine and you get really tired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what would you do then? Well, you'd have another cup of coffee and start the cycle all over again. ... That's what keeps us awake. That's the alertness of caffeine. But it does also act on some other network, such as the dopamine network, and that's \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2017/11/23/566034172/human-brains-have-evolved-unique-feel-good-circuits\">part of what gives us the euphoria\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how caffeine helped capitalism \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We have these circadian rhythms that organize and govern our lives — and they're hard to break. And I don't know that you could ever have had a night shift or even a late shift before you had caffeine. Caffeine really helps capitalism conquer the frontier of night. And that's why it was \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/04/07/396664685/tea-tuesdays-how-tea-sugar-reshaped-the-british-empire\">so important to the industrial revolution\u003c/a>, where you had these expensive machines you wanted to keep running all night and you moved to two and three shifts. Did people work at night before that? Not very much. That's why I do think the impact on the modern world has been profound and that this has had a huge effect on our civilization and and on ourselves. To break those circadian rhythms is a huge deal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How coffee and tea historically relied on slave labor \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's a really ugly history behind both of them. [On] the early \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/parallels/2013/11/12/244563532/photos-reveal-harsh-detail-of-brazils-history-with-slavery\">coffee plantations in Brazil\u003c/a>, all the workers were slaves. But even later, when you have post-slavery Central America, these were brutal places to work. The thing about growing coffee and tea is you need a lot of labor, because the shrubs have to be pruned. I went coffee picking in Colombia and it's really hard work. It's kind of a spiky plant and it grows on such a steep hillside. You can't get your footing. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a very dark history. And like a lot of things, we're participating in these commodity chains and we have no idea what's behind it. I mean, who among us has seen a coffee plant or a tea plant, except in photography? But at the other end of those food chains, it has often been quite a bit of brutality. And, of course, coffee and tea drove demand for sugar, and sugar was at the very heart of the slave trade in the Caribbean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how climate change could affect coffee production \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a very demanding plant, and it's very picky. It has to have exactly the right altitude, water ... all this kind of stuff, which is concerning now because coffee faces a tremendous threat from climate change. There is a narrow band of conditions that make coffee happy. And the estimates now [from] the climate scientists — and this will be alarming to the fellow addicts out there — is that 50 percent of the coffee-growing regions will not be able to support the coffee plant by 2050. So capitalism may be killing the golden goose as climate change undermines coffee production. ... We may look back and say we lived in this golden age of good coffee that lasted from 1966 to 2050 — and then it'll be downhill from there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Sam Briger and Thea Chaloner produced and edited the audio of this interview. Bridget Bentz and Molly Seavy-Nesper adapted it for the Web.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2020 Fresh Air. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/programs/fresh-air/\">Fresh Air\u003c/a>.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Michael+Pollan+Explains+Caffeine+Cravings+%28And+Why+You+Don%27t+Have+To+Quit%29&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"When Pollan decided to write about caffeine, he gave it up — cold turkey. \"I just couldn't focus,\" he says. \"I was irritable. I lost confidence.\" Caffeine reshapes the brain in surprising ways.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1581368748,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":33,"wordCount":1867},"headData":{"title":"Michael Pollan Explains Caffeine Cravings (And Why You Don't Have To Quit) | KQED","description":"When Pollan decided to write about caffeine, he gave it up — cold turkey. "I just couldn't focus," he says. "I was irritable. I lost confidence." Caffeine reshapes the brain in surprising ways.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"136232 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=136232","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/02/10/michael-pollan-explains-caffeine-cravings-and-why-you-dont-have-to-quit/","disqusTitle":"Michael Pollan Explains Caffeine Cravings (And Why You Don't Have To Quit)","nprImageCredit":"Abdulrhman Al Shidokhi","nprByline":"Terry Gross","nprImageAgency":"Getty Images","nprStoryId":"803394030","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=803394030&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2020/02/10/803394030/michael-pollan-explains-caffeine-cravings-and-why-you-dont-have-to-quit?ft=nprml&f=803394030","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 10 Feb 2020 13:50:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 10 Feb 2020 12:00:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 10 Feb 2020 12:24:01 -0500","nprAudio":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2020/02/20200210_fa_01.mp3?orgId=427869011&topicId=1128&d=2151&p=13&story=803394030&ft=nprml&f=803394030","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1804561298-2b6039.m3u?orgId=427869011&topicId=1128&d=2151&p=13&story=803394030&ft=nprml&f=803394030","path":"/bayareabites/136232/michael-pollan-explains-caffeine-cravings-and-why-you-dont-have-to-quit","audioUrl":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2020/02/20200210_fa_01.mp3?orgId=427869011&topicId=1128&d=2151&p=13&story=803394030&ft=nprml&f=803394030","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_136052,bayareabites_133282,bayareabites_130682","label":"More Stories for You "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After wrapping up \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/books/titles/611229306/how-to-change-your-mind-what-the-new-science-of-psychedelics-teaches-us-about-co\">his book\u003c/a> about the potential therapeutic benefits of psychedelic drugs, author Michael Pollan turned his attention to a drug that's hidden \"in plain sight\" in many people's lives: caffeine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Here's a drug we use every day. ... We never think about it as a drug or an addiction, but that's exactly what it is,\" Pollan says. \"I thought, why not explore that relationship?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pollan's new audiobook, \u003cem>Caffeine, \u003c/em>explores the science of caffeine addiction and withdrawal — and the broader impact coffee and tea have had on the modern world. Caffeine, he says, is a powerful drug that alters the brain in surprising ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There are studies that show that people's both \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5107567/\">mental performance\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19088794-caffeine-and-sports-performance/\">athletic performance\u003c/a> are improved by coffee,\" he says. \"If you have a cup of coffee after you've learned something or read a textbook chapter, you are more likely to test better on it the next day.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was only when he quit caffeine cold turkey that Pollan fully appreciated the mental and psychological boost his morning cup of coffee had provided: \"I just couldn't focus,\" he says. \"I lost confidence. The whole book seemed like a really stupid idea. And loss of confidence is actually listed as one of the symptoms of caffeine withdrawal.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eventually the withdrawal symptoms subsided. Pollan lasted three months without caffeine — during which time, he says, his quality of sleep improved markedly. But now his research is complete and he's returned to his daily caffeine fix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think the word 'addiction' has a lot of moral baggage attached to it,\" he says. \"As [Johns Hopkins researcher] Roland Griffeth told me, if you have a steady supply of something, you can afford it and it's not interfering with your life, there's nothing wrong with being addicted.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview highlights \u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On his experience of giving up caffeine for three months\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The thing that really struck me was that I've never had [attention deficit hyperactivity disorder]. I can focus pretty well. I felt like, oh, this is what ADHD is like. I can't keep stuff out of the peripheries. The peripheral information and sense data keeps rushing in and getting in the way. I felt like I was a horse that had taken its blinders off, and suddenly I could see too many degrees of circumference. So that was a real problem for working. I really had trouble sitting and writing and staying still.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After a few days, this began to lift. I think anyone who delays having their morning cup of coffee knows what I'm talking about, but there was a kind of a sense of a veil or fog that had descended between me and reality. I was just kind of muzzy-headed and that gradually lifted. But I have to say, even weeks later, I felt like there was a little mental hitch between me and reality. I felt as if this wasn't my natural language — speaking in another language, which never goes that well or that smoothly. ... I got over it eventually, and I wrote a big chunk of the piece without the influence of caffeine. ... But it was an interesting three months. I recommend it actually. I think it's a really interesting exercise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how going without caffeine improved his sleep \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was amazing. I was sleeping like a teenager again. I would pop off, and just sleep through the night — which I don't do that often. And I had some great sleeps. I guess that was the the big compensating benefit of giving up caffeine. ... Caffeine is the enemy of good sleep. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a problem in ways we don't perceive, because caffeine undermines the quality — not necessarily the quantity — but the quality of our sleep. And specifically, one very particular kind of sleep, which I'd never heard of before, called \"slow wave\" or \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2019/10/31/775068218/how-deep-sleep-may-help-the-brain-clear-alzheimers-toxins\">deep sleep\u003c/a>. This isn't REM sleep where you're having dreams, or light sleep. This is a really deep place you go for not that long a part of the night, but it's really important to your mental and physical health. It's where these slow waves start radiating from the front of your brain into the back, and they kind of harmonize all the neurons, get them on the same page. It's where you kind of take memories from short-term working memory and put them in their proper place. It's like cleaning up the desktop on your computer at the end of the day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2017/10/16/558058812/sleep-scientist-warns-against-walking-through-life-in-an-underslept-state\">Matt Walker\u003c/a>, the psychologist who wrote \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/books/titles/558061359/why-we-sleep-unlocking-the-power-of-sleep-and-dreams\">\u003cem>Why We Sleep\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, thinks that this is very important to our health to have sufficient amounts of deep sleep. As we get older, we have less of it naturally. And coffee or tea cuts into that, even if you stop drinking it, say, at noon, because caffeine has a very long half-life and quarter-life. So, for example, the caffeine you ingest at noon — a quarter of it is still circulating in your bloodstream at midnight. It's still around. And this is the subtle and, perhaps, insidious effect it's having on you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how caffeine withdrawal works \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's beginning when you wake up. I mean, you haven't had coffee or tea since sometime the day before. ... All those people who tell you, \"I'm not civil\" [or] \"I'm not fit for human conversation until I have a cup of coffee.\" They're beginning to go through that withdrawal. They're starting to feel a little off — that muzzy-ness is coming in. Maybe they have a headache. Maybe they're a little irritable. And then they have that cup of coffee and the pleasure they're getting from it, I learned, is not simply the lift, the euphoric lift of the drug. It's the suppression of the symptoms of withdrawal. We go through that cycle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the things you learn when you take a caffeine fast, as I did, is that the experience of caffeine is very different to a caffeine virgin or a restored caffeine virgin, as I was, than it is to someone who's addicted. Those people [who are addicted] are getting a little bit of lift, but mostly what they're getting is the relief from these symptoms that are about to come down on them. And that feels pretty good. You're back to baseline. But when you're off for a few months, man, it's something else. It's a very powerful drug experience. And I was not prepared for it at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how caffeine keeps us alert\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We have a neurotransmitter called \u003ca href=\"https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Adenosine\">adenosine\u003c/a>. ... Over the course of the day, levels of it rise and its job is to gradually make us tired — create what's called \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/transcripts/705224359?storyId=705224359?storyId=705224359\">sleep pressure\u003c/a>. So, eventually, we turn out the lights and go to sleep, [and] there is a receptor that the adenosine fits into. And, as it turns out, caffeine fits into the same receptor — it gets there before the adenosine has a chance to. So it essentially blocks the action of that neurotransmitter — you never get the signal that you're tired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"'Caffeine really helps capitalism conquer the frontier of night. ... To break those circadian rhythms is a huge deal.'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"large","align":"right","citation":"Michael Pollan","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eventually, though, the adenosine — it's not like it goes away. It keeps building up the level in your bloodstream, keeps building up, so that when the caffeine is finally metabolized and the receptors are available again. Voom! You get hit by a flood of adenosine and you get really tired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And what would you do then? Well, you'd have another cup of coffee and start the cycle all over again. ... That's what keeps us awake. That's the alertness of caffeine. But it does also act on some other network, such as the dopamine network, and that's \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2017/11/23/566034172/human-brains-have-evolved-unique-feel-good-circuits\">part of what gives us the euphoria\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how caffeine helped capitalism \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We have these circadian rhythms that organize and govern our lives — and they're hard to break. And I don't know that you could ever have had a night shift or even a late shift before you had caffeine. Caffeine really helps capitalism conquer the frontier of night. And that's why it was \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/04/07/396664685/tea-tuesdays-how-tea-sugar-reshaped-the-british-empire\">so important to the industrial revolution\u003c/a>, where you had these expensive machines you wanted to keep running all night and you moved to two and three shifts. Did people work at night before that? Not very much. That's why I do think the impact on the modern world has been profound and that this has had a huge effect on our civilization and and on ourselves. To break those circadian rhythms is a huge deal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How coffee and tea historically relied on slave labor \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's a really ugly history behind both of them. [On] the early \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/parallels/2013/11/12/244563532/photos-reveal-harsh-detail-of-brazils-history-with-slavery\">coffee plantations in Brazil\u003c/a>, all the workers were slaves. But even later, when you have post-slavery Central America, these were brutal places to work. The thing about growing coffee and tea is you need a lot of labor, because the shrubs have to be pruned. I went coffee picking in Colombia and it's really hard work. It's kind of a spiky plant and it grows on such a steep hillside. You can't get your footing. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a very dark history. And like a lot of things, we're participating in these commodity chains and we have no idea what's behind it. I mean, who among us has seen a coffee plant or a tea plant, except in photography? But at the other end of those food chains, it has often been quite a bit of brutality. And, of course, coffee and tea drove demand for sugar, and sugar was at the very heart of the slave trade in the Caribbean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how climate change could affect coffee production \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a very demanding plant, and it's very picky. It has to have exactly the right altitude, water ... all this kind of stuff, which is concerning now because coffee faces a tremendous threat from climate change. There is a narrow band of conditions that make coffee happy. And the estimates now [from] the climate scientists — and this will be alarming to the fellow addicts out there — is that 50 percent of the coffee-growing regions will not be able to support the coffee plant by 2050. So capitalism may be killing the golden goose as climate change undermines coffee production. ... We may look back and say we lived in this golden age of good coffee that lasted from 1966 to 2050 — and then it'll be downhill from there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Sam Briger and Thea Chaloner produced and edited the audio of this interview. Bridget Bentz and Molly Seavy-Nesper adapted it for the Web.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2020 Fresh Air. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/programs/fresh-air/\">Fresh Air\u003c/a>.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Michael+Pollan+Explains+Caffeine+Cravings+%28And+Why+You+Don%27t+Have+To+Quit%29&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/136232/michael-pollan-explains-caffeine-cravings-and-why-you-dont-have-to-quit","authors":["byline_bayareabites_136232"],"tags":["bayareabites_10936","bayareabites_125","bayareabites_9710","bayareabites_11278","bayareabites_1270","bayareabites_14756","bayareabites_12148","bayareabites_185"],"featImg":"bayareabites_136235","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_113076":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_113076","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"113076","score":null,"sort":[1477649833000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"in-appetites-bourdain-pleases-the-toughest-food-critic-his-9-year-old","title":"In 'Appetites,' Bourdain Pleases The Toughest Food Critic (His 9-Year-Old)","publishDate":1477649833,"format":"audio","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on Fresh Air:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttps://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2016/10/20161027_fa_01.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the host of the Peabody Award-winning series \u003cem>Parts Unknown,\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>Anthony Bourdain has visited conflict zones like Beirut, Congo, Gaza and Libya — places his CNN colleagues routinely cover. But Bourdain is clear that he doesn't want to be mistaken for a journalist.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Journalists drop into a situation, ask a question, and people sort of tighten up,\" he tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Dave Davies. \"Whereas if you sit down with people and just say, 'Hey what makes you happy? What do you like to eat?' They'll tell you extraordinary things, many of which have nothing to do with food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bourdain says experiencing the everyday lives of people around the globe helps give depth to the news reports about those places. \"I mean, who are these people we are talking about when we talk about Benghazi or Libya?\" he says. \"Is it not useful to see them with their kids, to see how their everyday lives are?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what does Anthony Bourdain eat when he's at home, being \"ordinary\"? During the course of his 16-year-long career in television, he has developed a reputation for trying just about anything — including unwashed pig rectum and rotten shark. But his new cookbook, \u003cem>Appetites\u003c/em>, focuses on food he eats at home with his young daughter, including mac and cheese, burgers and some of his favorite Asian dishes, like Korean army stew.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When I cook at home it's with a 9-year-old girl in mind,\" he says. \"I mean, she's who I need to please, and if she's not happy, I'm not happy. The whole house revolves around her and her friends. So it's reflective of that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_113082\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/9780062409959_custom-b00faa2004d5b1cf6232d31bd66e1bf2b86167fa-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Appetites by Anthony Bourdain\" width=\"400\" height=\"505\" class=\"size-full wp-image-113082\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/9780062409959_custom-b00faa2004d5b1cf6232d31bd66e1bf2b86167fa-s600-c85.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/9780062409959_custom-b00faa2004d5b1cf6232d31bd66e1bf2b86167fa-s600-c85-160x202.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/9780062409959_custom-b00faa2004d5b1cf6232d31bd66e1bf2b86167fa-s600-c85-240x303.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/9780062409959_custom-b00faa2004d5b1cf6232d31bd66e1bf2b86167fa-s600-c85-375x473.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/498575240/appetites\">Appetites\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Anthony Bourdain\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the cookbook \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wanted it to be useful, approachable, reflective of the life I've lived over the past eight or nine years as a father, as opposed to a professional trying to dazzle with pretty pictures and food that's different than everybody else's. ... I wanted to make a beautiful cookbook, [a] creative-looking one, spoken in honest, straight-forward, casual terms that gives the reader reasonable expectations, that encourages them to organize themselves in the way that I've found to be useful as a professional.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's also reflective of, I think, age, and all those years in the restaurant business. Most chefs I know after work do not want to go out to dinner and be forced to think about what they're eating in a critical or analytical way. They want to experience food as they did as children, in an emotional way. The pure pleasure of that bowl of spicy noodles or even a bowl of soup that their mom gave them on a rainy day when they'd been bullied in school. I mean, that's a happy time when you can escape this world and lose yourself in food. These are recipes where hopefully, I try to evoke those feelings and emotions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>starting out as a dishwasher and\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>what attracted him to the restaurant industry \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_113078\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-1020x765.jpg\" alt='Bourdain began his career as a dishwasher, and jokes that he learned \"all the most important lessons\" of his life scrubbing dishes.' width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"size-large wp-image-113078\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bourdain began his career as a dishwasher, and jokes that he learned \"all the most important lessons\" of his life scrubbing dishes. \u003ccite>(David Scott Holloway/Ecco)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I started working as a dishwasher one summer and it was really a big event for me, because up to that point I was lazy. I was the kid that if you hired me to shovel your walk in winter, I would really do a terrible job of it, probably find a way to weasel out. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The kitchen brigade [were] the first people whose respect I wanted, and the first time in my life that I went home feeling respect for myself. It was very hard work. You had to be there on time. There were certain absolutes, certain absolute rules, and for whatever reason I responded to that. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was a happy dishwasher. I jokingly say that I learned every important lesson, all the most important lessons of my life, as a dishwasher. In some ways that's true. Thomas Keller, the great chef, talks about ... the magic of discovering that you line the dirty dishes up, you push them in the machine, and they come out clean every time. There's something very comforting about that. ... I still like being at the bottom of a steep learning curve. I liked being the worst in the kitchen and struggling every day to earn respect and status within that hierarchy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On writing\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> his first cookbook, \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Kitchen Confidential,\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>and finding his writing voice\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think, to a great extent, the reason \u003cem>Kitchen Confidential\u003c/em> sounds like it does is I just didn't have the luxury or the burden of a lot of time to sit around and contemplate the mysteries of the universe. I had to wake up at 5 o'clock in the morning, write for an hour and a half, and then I had to go to work to a real job. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was liberating in the sense that I had no time to think about what I was writing. I certainly had no customer or reader in mind, because I was quite sure no one would ever read it. That was in many ways a very liberating place to be. I've kind of tried to stick with that business model since.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>twice\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>being given the honor to kill a pig for a village feast in Borneo \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That first time I don't think I had ever killed an animal before. I had been ordering them up as a chef over the phone, so I was culpable in the death of many animals. But here I was being asked to physically plunge a spear into the heart of a pig. It seemed to me the height of hypocrisy, however uncomfortable I might've been with that, to put it off on somebody else. I had been responsible for the death of many animals. Here I'm being asked, I didn't want to let the team down. I didn't want to dishonor the village or embarrass anyone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time was very, very, very, very difficult. My camera guys almost passed out, it was certainly very difficult for me. The second time, as much as I'd like to say that it was still really hard, and I think I said in the voiceover, I don't know what it says about me, probably something very bad, that I have become — I have changed over time. I'd like to think in good ways, for the most part, but I've also become more callous. I've become able to plunge a spear into the heart of a screaming pig and live with that much more comfortably than I did the first time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On finding great neighborhood places and hearing reactions from locals \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ideally I'll go to a place, like I'll find a little bar in Rio, let's say, some little local place that perfectly expresses the neighborhood. It's not a tourist-friendly place, for lack of a better word, I hate this word but I'll use it anyway — \"authentic.\" I'll feature that on the show.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The response I'm looking for is to hear from someone from the neighborhood saying, \"How did you ever find that place? I thought only we knew about it. It's truly a place that we love and is reflective of our culture and our neighborhood.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But on the other hand, it's kind of a destructive process because if I name the place — and I don't always when it's a place like that — I change it. The next time I go back, there's tourists. There're people who've seen it on the show. Then I might hear from the same person from that neighborhood saying: \"You ruined my favorite bar!\" All the regular customers have run away and it's filled with tourists in ugly T-shirts and flip-flops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On food he hesitates to eat \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If freshness and hygiene is a question, generally it's tribal situations that are problematic, where the whole tribe, the chief is offering you something that's what they have. Often they don't have refrigeration, it's often old — their tolerance for meat that's even spoiled is higher than [that of] my relatively sensitive stomach. Often these dishes are eaten in one large bowl with the whole tribe jamming their fingers in. So yeah, rotten food, food that's clearly not clean, water that's clearly not good — those are a challenge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the flavor spectrum, I'm pretty good with just about everything. ... When you get to, like, rotten shark in Iceland, I mean I could do it, but I'd rather not. Won't be doing that again. It's unpleasant but it's not the end of the world. I don't know, for sheer soul-destroying misery, if you're talking about a bite of food that just makes me question the future of the human race and sends me into a spiral of depression, I think eating an airport Johnny Rockets pretty much would be the nadir.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On getting sick \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've lost three days of work in 16 years ... only three days that I've been down for the count and confined to bed and desperately, horribly ill. Generally speaking, if it's, like, a street-food stall that's busy, even if it looks dirty as hell, if there are a lot of locals there and they're eating and they're happy, my crew will always eat at that place. Eating a Caesar salad at the major chain hotel in Central Africa or the Middle East, that's where you run into trouble, stomach-wise, generally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On losing interest in fine dining, because of his love of street food \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm happiest experiencing food in the most purely emotional way. And it's true of most of my chef friends as well. When it's, like, street food or a one-chef, one-dish operation, or somebody who's just really, really good at one or two or three things that they've been doing for a very long time, that's very reflective of their ethnicity or their culture or their nationality — those are the things that just make me happy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm spoiled, like a lot of fellow chefs. We get a lot of fine wines and dinners thrown our way and you do reach this enviable point where you just don't want to sit there for four hours, with course after course after course. It's too much, first of all. It doesn't feel good at the end of that time, and it's not interesting. And if the waiter is taking 10 minutes to describe each dish [and] it'll only take you three to eat it, something's really wrong. I think people lose sight of the fact that chefs should be ultimately in the pleasure business, not in the look-at-me business. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/programs/fresh-air/\">Fresh Air\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Anthony Bourdain's new cookbook features comfort food he cooks for his young daughter. \"She's who I need to please, and if she's not happy, I'm not happy,\" he says.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1477649833,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":34,"wordCount":1894},"headData":{"title":"In 'Appetites,' Bourdain Pleases The Toughest Food Critic (His 9-Year-Old) | KQED","description":"Anthony Bourdain's new cookbook features comfort food he cooks for his young daughter. "She's who I need to please, and if she's not happy, I'm not happy," he says.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"113076 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=113076","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/10/28/in-appetites-bourdain-pleases-the-toughest-food-critic-his-9-year-old/","disqusTitle":"In 'Appetites,' Bourdain Pleases The Toughest Food Critic (His 9-Year-Old)","nprImageAgency":"Ecco","nprStoryId":"499308031","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=499308031&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/10/27/499308031/in-appetites-bourdain-pleases-the-toughest-food-critic-his-9-year-old?ft=nprml&f=499308031","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 27 Oct 2016 17:15:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 27 Oct 2016 16:04:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 27 Oct 2016 17:15:17 -0400","nprAudio":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2016/10/20161027_fa_01.mp3?orgId=427869011&topicId=1053&d=2240&p=13&story=499308031&t=progseg&e=499589567&seg=1&ft=nprml&f=499308031","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1499616639-ed6d35.m3u?orgId=427869011&topicId=1053&d=2240&p=13&story=499308031&t=progseg&e=499589567&seg=1&ft=nprml&f=499308031","path":"/bayareabites/113076/in-appetites-bourdain-pleases-the-toughest-food-critic-his-9-year-old","audioUrl":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2016/10/20161027_fa_01.mp3?orgId=427869011&topicId=1053&d=2240&p=13&story=499308031&t=progseg&e=499589567&seg=1&ft=nprml&f=499308031","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on Fresh Air:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"nprOneAudioLink","attributes":{"named":{"src":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2016/10/20161027_fa_01.mp3"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the host of the Peabody Award-winning series \u003cem>Parts Unknown,\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>Anthony Bourdain has visited conflict zones like Beirut, Congo, Gaza and Libya — places his CNN colleagues routinely cover. But Bourdain is clear that he doesn't want to be mistaken for a journalist.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Journalists drop into a situation, ask a question, and people sort of tighten up,\" he tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Dave Davies. \"Whereas if you sit down with people and just say, 'Hey what makes you happy? What do you like to eat?' They'll tell you extraordinary things, many of which have nothing to do with food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bourdain says experiencing the everyday lives of people around the globe helps give depth to the news reports about those places. \"I mean, who are these people we are talking about when we talk about Benghazi or Libya?\" he says. \"Is it not useful to see them with their kids, to see how their everyday lives are?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what does Anthony Bourdain eat when he's at home, being \"ordinary\"? During the course of his 16-year-long career in television, he has developed a reputation for trying just about anything — including unwashed pig rectum and rotten shark. But his new cookbook, \u003cem>Appetites\u003c/em>, focuses on food he eats at home with his young daughter, including mac and cheese, burgers and some of his favorite Asian dishes, like Korean army stew.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When I cook at home it's with a 9-year-old girl in mind,\" he says. \"I mean, she's who I need to please, and if she's not happy, I'm not happy. The whole house revolves around her and her friends. So it's reflective of that.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_113082\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/9780062409959_custom-b00faa2004d5b1cf6232d31bd66e1bf2b86167fa-s600-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Appetites by Anthony Bourdain\" width=\"400\" height=\"505\" class=\"size-full wp-image-113082\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/9780062409959_custom-b00faa2004d5b1cf6232d31bd66e1bf2b86167fa-s600-c85.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/9780062409959_custom-b00faa2004d5b1cf6232d31bd66e1bf2b86167fa-s600-c85-160x202.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/9780062409959_custom-b00faa2004d5b1cf6232d31bd66e1bf2b86167fa-s600-c85-240x303.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/9780062409959_custom-b00faa2004d5b1cf6232d31bd66e1bf2b86167fa-s600-c85-375x473.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/498575240/appetites\">Appetites\u003c/a>\u003cbr>by Anthony Bourdain\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the cookbook \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wanted it to be useful, approachable, reflective of the life I've lived over the past eight or nine years as a father, as opposed to a professional trying to dazzle with pretty pictures and food that's different than everybody else's. ... I wanted to make a beautiful cookbook, [a] creative-looking one, spoken in honest, straight-forward, casual terms that gives the reader reasonable expectations, that encourages them to organize themselves in the way that I've found to be useful as a professional.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's also reflective of, I think, age, and all those years in the restaurant business. Most chefs I know after work do not want to go out to dinner and be forced to think about what they're eating in a critical or analytical way. They want to experience food as they did as children, in an emotional way. The pure pleasure of that bowl of spicy noodles or even a bowl of soup that their mom gave them on a rainy day when they'd been bullied in school. I mean, that's a happy time when you can escape this world and lose yourself in food. These are recipes where hopefully, I try to evoke those feelings and emotions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>starting out as a dishwasher and\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>what attracted him to the restaurant industry \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_113078\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-1020x765.jpg\" alt='Bourdain began his career as a dishwasher, and jokes that he learned \"all the most important lessons\" of his life scrubbing dishes.' width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"size-large wp-image-113078\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-bourdain-photo-4_-please-credit-cnn-a5ea0cb7a7a416b4f660ad237abcbc2e6cd57544-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bourdain began his career as a dishwasher, and jokes that he learned \"all the most important lessons\" of his life scrubbing dishes. \u003ccite>(David Scott Holloway/Ecco)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I started working as a dishwasher one summer and it was really a big event for me, because up to that point I was lazy. I was the kid that if you hired me to shovel your walk in winter, I would really do a terrible job of it, probably find a way to weasel out. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The kitchen brigade [were] the first people whose respect I wanted, and the first time in my life that I went home feeling respect for myself. It was very hard work. You had to be there on time. There were certain absolutes, certain absolute rules, and for whatever reason I responded to that. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was a happy dishwasher. I jokingly say that I learned every important lesson, all the most important lessons of my life, as a dishwasher. In some ways that's true. Thomas Keller, the great chef, talks about ... the magic of discovering that you line the dirty dishes up, you push them in the machine, and they come out clean every time. There's something very comforting about that. ... I still like being at the bottom of a steep learning curve. I liked being the worst in the kitchen and struggling every day to earn respect and status within that hierarchy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On writing\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> his first cookbook, \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Kitchen Confidential,\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>and finding his writing voice\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think, to a great extent, the reason \u003cem>Kitchen Confidential\u003c/em> sounds like it does is I just didn't have the luxury or the burden of a lot of time to sit around and contemplate the mysteries of the universe. I had to wake up at 5 o'clock in the morning, write for an hour and a half, and then I had to go to work to a real job. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was liberating in the sense that I had no time to think about what I was writing. I certainly had no customer or reader in mind, because I was quite sure no one would ever read it. That was in many ways a very liberating place to be. I've kind of tried to stick with that business model since.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>twice\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>being given the honor to kill a pig for a village feast in Borneo \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That first time I don't think I had ever killed an animal before. I had been ordering them up as a chef over the phone, so I was culpable in the death of many animals. But here I was being asked to physically plunge a spear into the heart of a pig. It seemed to me the height of hypocrisy, however uncomfortable I might've been with that, to put it off on somebody else. I had been responsible for the death of many animals. Here I'm being asked, I didn't want to let the team down. I didn't want to dishonor the village or embarrass anyone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time was very, very, very, very difficult. My camera guys almost passed out, it was certainly very difficult for me. The second time, as much as I'd like to say that it was still really hard, and I think I said in the voiceover, I don't know what it says about me, probably something very bad, that I have become — I have changed over time. I'd like to think in good ways, for the most part, but I've also become more callous. I've become able to plunge a spear into the heart of a screaming pig and live with that much more comfortably than I did the first time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On finding great neighborhood places and hearing reactions from locals \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ideally I'll go to a place, like I'll find a little bar in Rio, let's say, some little local place that perfectly expresses the neighborhood. It's not a tourist-friendly place, for lack of a better word, I hate this word but I'll use it anyway — \"authentic.\" I'll feature that on the show.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The response I'm looking for is to hear from someone from the neighborhood saying, \"How did you ever find that place? I thought only we knew about it. It's truly a place that we love and is reflective of our culture and our neighborhood.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But on the other hand, it's kind of a destructive process because if I name the place — and I don't always when it's a place like that — I change it. The next time I go back, there's tourists. There're people who've seen it on the show. Then I might hear from the same person from that neighborhood saying: \"You ruined my favorite bar!\" All the regular customers have run away and it's filled with tourists in ugly T-shirts and flip-flops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On food he hesitates to eat \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If freshness and hygiene is a question, generally it's tribal situations that are problematic, where the whole tribe, the chief is offering you something that's what they have. Often they don't have refrigeration, it's often old — their tolerance for meat that's even spoiled is higher than [that of] my relatively sensitive stomach. Often these dishes are eaten in one large bowl with the whole tribe jamming their fingers in. So yeah, rotten food, food that's clearly not clean, water that's clearly not good — those are a challenge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the flavor spectrum, I'm pretty good with just about everything. ... When you get to, like, rotten shark in Iceland, I mean I could do it, but I'd rather not. Won't be doing that again. It's unpleasant but it's not the end of the world. I don't know, for sheer soul-destroying misery, if you're talking about a bite of food that just makes me question the future of the human race and sends me into a spiral of depression, I think eating an airport Johnny Rockets pretty much would be the nadir.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On getting sick \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've lost three days of work in 16 years ... only three days that I've been down for the count and confined to bed and desperately, horribly ill. Generally speaking, if it's, like, a street-food stall that's busy, even if it looks dirty as hell, if there are a lot of locals there and they're eating and they're happy, my crew will always eat at that place. Eating a Caesar salad at the major chain hotel in Central Africa or the Middle East, that's where you run into trouble, stomach-wise, generally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On losing interest in fine dining, because of his love of street food \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm happiest experiencing food in the most purely emotional way. And it's true of most of my chef friends as well. When it's, like, street food or a one-chef, one-dish operation, or somebody who's just really, really good at one or two or three things that they've been doing for a very long time, that's very reflective of their ethnicity or their culture or their nationality — those are the things that just make me happy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm spoiled, like a lot of fellow chefs. We get a lot of fine wines and dinners thrown our way and you do reach this enviable point where you just don't want to sit there for four hours, with course after course after course. It's too much, first of all. It doesn't feel good at the end of that time, and it's not interesting. And if the waiter is taking 10 minutes to describe each dish [and] it'll only take you three to eat it, something's really wrong. I think people lose sight of the fact that chefs should be ultimately in the pleasure business, not in the look-at-me business. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/programs/fresh-air/\">Fresh Air\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/113076/in-appetites-bourdain-pleases-the-toughest-food-critic-his-9-year-old","authors":["5403"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_2407","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_34"],"tags":["bayareabites_2213","bayareabites_15666","bayareabites_11278"],"featImg":"bayareabites_113077","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_106122":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_106122","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"106122","score":null,"sort":[1453412409000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"times-restaurant-critic-dishes-on-guy-fieri-and-reviews-that-stir-the-pot","title":"'Times' Restaurant Critic Dishes On Guy Fieri — And Reviews That Stir The Pot","publishDate":1453412409,"format":"audio","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Interview on Fresh Air:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2016/01/20160121_fa_01.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pete Wells has a job that most people can only dream of. As restaurant critic for \u003cem>The\u003c/em> \u003cem>New York Times,\u003c/em> he gets paid to eat out four or five nights a week — often at quite pricey places — on someone else's dime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for Wells, going out for drinks and delectable meals is still work. He tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Dave Davies that coming up with words to describe flavors is something he \"wrestles with all the time.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I find that the dead-end route is to try to describe what's going on in your mouth,\" he says. \"If you say, 'Oh, there was a little bit of acidity from the lime juice on the left side of my tongue, and then this beautiful, smooth pureed potato with some crunchy shallots on top, and it all came together,' you never will get out of that sentence alive.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, Wells likes to describe a food's presentation in a way that gives the reader a feel for what it is like to eat: \"My feeling is, if I can describe the way a steak looks on the plate, when it's just kind of juices are coming out, and it's almost alive, and just wants to be eaten, I hope that people will feel it, more than they will feel me describing the tangy minerality of the dry-aged beef between my teeth.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On beginning his \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2016/01/13/dining/pete-wells-per-se-review.html?_r=1&mtrref=undefined\">very critical review\u003c/a> of one of New York City's most expensive restaurants, Per Se, by describing the poor service as \"\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>the slow creep of mediocrity\"\u003c/strong> \u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is often with restaurant reviews in particular, I think, this kind of impulse to be deferential and bow down to the greatness of the restaurant and the greatness of the chef, and then with great regret to say, \"And yet, all is not as it should be in the kingdom,\" and I didn't want to do any of that. I just think that we show an awful lot of deference to chefs in our culture and maybe not enough deference to customers, and I wanted this review to come out and say, \"Yes, this is a very respected chef, but are the people at the table being respected in the same way?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On his \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/11/14/dining/reviews/restaurant-review-guys-american-kitchen-bar-in-times-square.html\">infamous takedown\u003c/a> of Guy Fieri's restaurant, Guy's American Kitchen & Bar, in Times Square\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wanted to like the restaurant. I wanted the restaurant to be the same kind of celebration of grease on your elbows and grease on your ears and grease on your nose, Americans wallowing in unhealthy, unwholesome joy. ... It's flashy and energetic-looking, and it seems like it's going to be this wild, crazy party. And then the food arrives and it's no party at all. At all. All of the promises of the restaurant kind of die on the plate ... [like] these nachos that had this kind of gray turkey pulp on them. I don't think I've ever met nachos that I didn't like before. It's almost inconceivable that nachos can be bad. It makes no sense.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the reaction to his brutally negative review of Fieri's restaurant\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of people rejoiced and thought that I was putting this interloper from television back in his place, which was not my intention. And then a lot of people thought I was being a snobby East Coast elitist who was belittling the common people and making fun of their tastes, which was not my intention at all. I wanted to say, \"This can be great food, this should be great food, why isn't it great food?\" But it was wild. It was really wild. I try to respond to emails that people send me after reviews come out, and that was the one time when I just absolutely could not. I couldn't keep up. There were so many and all over the place, positive and negative. After a few days, the really nasty ones started to come in, which really surprised me, because the review had been out for three or four days and then all of a sudden I started to get these really profane and vicious emails, one after another. Somebody wished that my kids would get cancer and I thought, \"What have I done here?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On his joyous \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2015/12/30/dining/senor-frogs-review.html?_r=0\">review \u003c/a>of\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> Señor Frog\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>, \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>a spring-break-themed restaurant in Times Square, \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>where he danced in a conga line wearing a 3-foot-high crown of yellow and orange balloons \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>and drank a margarita out of a phallus-shaped glass\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reason I wanted to write about it was because — it's not the most sophisticated fun in the world, it's maybe not even my kind of fun, but it was fun. And I was really struck by how solemn so many of the restaurants I review have become. As I said in the review, it's become like going to church. Everybody used to say going to restaurants ... is like theater, there's stage sets, there's drama, there's play acting and you watch the show. And now, boy, everything's just become so serious. And you sit at the counter and the chef comes out and tells you what he did to the Brussels sprouts leaves and no, there's not a lot of dancing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/programs/fresh-air/\" target=\"_blank\">Fresh Air\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Restaurant critic Pete Wells tries to keep the customer in mind with all of his reviews. \"We show awful lot of deference to chefs in our culture and maybe not enough deference to customers,\" he says.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1453424697,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":928},"headData":{"title":"'Times' Restaurant Critic Dishes On Guy Fieri — And Reviews That Stir The Pot | KQED","description":"Restaurant critic Pete Wells tries to keep the customer in mind with all of his reviews. "We show awful lot of deference to chefs in our culture and maybe not enough deference to customers," he says.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"106122 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=106122","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/01/21/times-restaurant-critic-dishes-on-guy-fieri-and-reviews-that-stir-the-pot/","disqusTitle":"'Times' Restaurant Critic Dishes On Guy Fieri — And Reviews That Stir The Pot","nprImageAgency":"Krista/Flickr","nprStoryId":"463825817","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=463825817&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/01/21/463825817/times-restaurant-critic-dishes-on-guy-fieri-and-reviews-that-stir-the-pot?ft=nprml&f=463825817","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 21 Jan 2016 16:22:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 21 Jan 2016 14:23:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 21 Jan 2016 16:22:41 -0500","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2016/01/20160121_fa_01.mp3?orgId=427869011&topicId=1053&d=1479&p=13&story=463825817&t=progseg&e=463832078&seg=1&ft=nprml&f=463825817","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1463852950-777462.m3u?orgId=427869011&topicId=1053&d=1479&p=13&story=463825817&t=progseg&e=463832078&seg=1&ft=nprml&f=463825817","path":"/bayareabites/106122/times-restaurant-critic-dishes-on-guy-fieri-and-reviews-that-stir-the-pot","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2016/01/20160121_fa_01.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Interview on Fresh Air:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2016/01/20160121_fa_01.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pete Wells has a job that most people can only dream of. As restaurant critic for \u003cem>The\u003c/em> \u003cem>New York Times,\u003c/em> he gets paid to eat out four or five nights a week — often at quite pricey places — on someone else's dime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for Wells, going out for drinks and delectable meals is still work. He tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Dave Davies that coming up with words to describe flavors is something he \"wrestles with all the time.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I find that the dead-end route is to try to describe what's going on in your mouth,\" he says. \"If you say, 'Oh, there was a little bit of acidity from the lime juice on the left side of my tongue, and then this beautiful, smooth pureed potato with some crunchy shallots on top, and it all came together,' you never will get out of that sentence alive.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Instead, Wells likes to describe a food's presentation in a way that gives the reader a feel for what it is like to eat: \"My feeling is, if I can describe the way a steak looks on the plate, when it's just kind of juices are coming out, and it's almost alive, and just wants to be eaten, I hope that people will feel it, more than they will feel me describing the tangy minerality of the dry-aged beef between my teeth.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On beginning his \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2016/01/13/dining/pete-wells-per-se-review.html?_r=1&mtrref=undefined\">very critical review\u003c/a> of one of New York City's most expensive restaurants, Per Se, by describing the poor service as \"\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>the slow creep of mediocrity\"\u003c/strong> \u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is often with restaurant reviews in particular, I think, this kind of impulse to be deferential and bow down to the greatness of the restaurant and the greatness of the chef, and then with great regret to say, \"And yet, all is not as it should be in the kingdom,\" and I didn't want to do any of that. I just think that we show an awful lot of deference to chefs in our culture and maybe not enough deference to customers, and I wanted this review to come out and say, \"Yes, this is a very respected chef, but are the people at the table being respected in the same way?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On his \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/11/14/dining/reviews/restaurant-review-guys-american-kitchen-bar-in-times-square.html\">infamous takedown\u003c/a> of Guy Fieri's restaurant, Guy's American Kitchen & Bar, in Times Square\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I wanted to like the restaurant. I wanted the restaurant to be the same kind of celebration of grease on your elbows and grease on your ears and grease on your nose, Americans wallowing in unhealthy, unwholesome joy. ... It's flashy and energetic-looking, and it seems like it's going to be this wild, crazy party. And then the food arrives and it's no party at all. At all. All of the promises of the restaurant kind of die on the plate ... [like] these nachos that had this kind of gray turkey pulp on them. I don't think I've ever met nachos that I didn't like before. It's almost inconceivable that nachos can be bad. It makes no sense.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the reaction to his brutally negative review of Fieri's restaurant\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of people rejoiced and thought that I was putting this interloper from television back in his place, which was not my intention. And then a lot of people thought I was being a snobby East Coast elitist who was belittling the common people and making fun of their tastes, which was not my intention at all. I wanted to say, \"This can be great food, this should be great food, why isn't it great food?\" But it was wild. It was really wild. I try to respond to emails that people send me after reviews come out, and that was the one time when I just absolutely could not. I couldn't keep up. There were so many and all over the place, positive and negative. After a few days, the really nasty ones started to come in, which really surprised me, because the review had been out for three or four days and then all of a sudden I started to get these really profane and vicious emails, one after another. Somebody wished that my kids would get cancer and I thought, \"What have I done here?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On his joyous \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2015/12/30/dining/senor-frogs-review.html?_r=0\">review \u003c/a>of\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> Señor Frog\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>, \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>a spring-break-themed restaurant in Times Square, \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>where he danced in a conga line wearing a 3-foot-high crown of yellow and orange balloons \u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>and drank a margarita out of a phallus-shaped glass\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reason I wanted to write about it was because — it's not the most sophisticated fun in the world, it's maybe not even my kind of fun, but it was fun. And I was really struck by how solemn so many of the restaurants I review have become. As I said in the review, it's become like going to church. Everybody used to say going to restaurants ... is like theater, there's stage sets, there's drama, there's play acting and you watch the show. And now, boy, everything's just become so serious. And you sit at the counter and the chef comes out and tells you what he did to the Brussels sprouts leaves and no, there's not a lot of dancing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/programs/fresh-air/\" target=\"_blank\">Fresh Air\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/106122/times-restaurant-critic-dishes-on-guy-fieri-and-reviews-that-stir-the-pot","authors":["5403"],"categories":["bayareabites_34","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10"],"tags":["bayareabites_15220","bayareabites_11278","bayareabites_2288","bayareabites_3226","bayareabites_15219","bayareabites_15221","bayareabites_1197","bayareabites_15222"],"featImg":"bayareabites_106123","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_99451":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_99451","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"99451","score":null,"sort":[1439655891000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"celebrating-julia-childs-birthday-with-a-1989-fresh-air-interview","title":"Celebrating Julia Child's Birthday With A 1989 Fresh Air Interview","publishDate":1439655891,"format":"audio","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Interview on Fresh Air with Terry Gross:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2009/08/20090807_fa_02.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an interview from the 1980s, Julia Child recalls being hooked on French cooking from the very first bite. She made it her passion her life, spending her career guiding American amateurs through the fabled intricacies of French cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Originally from Pasadena, Calif., Child was in her 30s when she arrived in Paris with her husband, a U.S. diplomat. After that first magical experience with French cuisine, she signed up for a course at the fabled Cordon Bleu cooking school in Paris. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eventually, it was Child herself who was teaching classes, along with her future collaborators on \u003cem>Mastering the Art of French Cooking\u003c/em>, Simone Beck and Louisette Bertholle. That landmark, two-volume book appeared in 1958.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Child would go on to host eight television cooking series, including the Emmy Award-winning \u003cem>The French Chef\u003c/em>, which appeared on over 100 public television stations in the U.S. She died in 2004 at the age of 91.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This interview was originally broadcast Nov. 14, 1989\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"For generations of Americans, chef Julia Child was a fearless guide through the complexities of French cooking — on the page, and on her eight TV shows. \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em> revisits an interview with Child from 1989.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1439753880,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":9,"wordCount":192},"headData":{"title":"Celebrating Julia Child's Birthday With A 1989 Fresh Air Interview | KQED","description":"For generations of Americans, chef Julia Child was a fearless guide through the complexities of French cooking — on the page, and on her eight TV shows. Fresh Air revisits an interview with Child from 1989.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"99451 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=99451","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/08/15/celebrating-julia-childs-birthday-with-a-1989-fresh-air-interview/","disqusTitle":"Celebrating Julia Child's Birthday With A 1989 Fresh Air Interview","nprStoryId":"111653075","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=111653075&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=111653075&ft=nprml&f=111653075","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Fri, 07 Aug 2009 12:32:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Fri, 07 Aug 2009 09:14:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Fri, 04 Mar 2011 05:00:33 -0500","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2009/08/20090807_fa_02.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1022&d=895&p=13&story=111653075&t=progseg&e=111653103&seg=2&ft=nprml&f=111653075","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1111653074-1506a6.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1022&d=895&p=13&story=111653075&t=progseg&e=111653103&seg=2&ft=nprml&f=111653075","path":"/bayareabites/99451/celebrating-julia-childs-birthday-with-a-1989-fresh-air-interview","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2009/08/20090807_fa_02.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1022&d=895&p=13&story=111653075&t=progseg&e=111653103&seg=2&ft=nprml&f=111653075","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Interview on Fresh Air with Terry Gross:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2009/08/20090807_fa_02.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an interview from the 1980s, Julia Child recalls being hooked on French cooking from the very first bite. She made it her passion her life, spending her career guiding American amateurs through the fabled intricacies of French cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Originally from Pasadena, Calif., Child was in her 30s when she arrived in Paris with her husband, a U.S. diplomat. After that first magical experience with French cuisine, she signed up for a course at the fabled Cordon Bleu cooking school in Paris. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eventually, it was Child herself who was teaching classes, along with her future collaborators on \u003cem>Mastering the Art of French Cooking\u003c/em>, Simone Beck and Louisette Bertholle. That landmark, two-volume book appeared in 1958.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Child would go on to host eight television cooking series, including the Emmy Award-winning \u003cem>The French Chef\u003c/em>, which appeared on over 100 public television stations in the U.S. She died in 2004 at the age of 91.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This interview was originally broadcast Nov. 14, 1989\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/99451/celebrating-julia-childs-birthday-with-a-1989-fresh-air-interview","authors":["5403"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_2090"],"tags":["bayareabites_11278","bayareabites_83"],"featImg":"bayareabites_99452","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_89251":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_89251","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"89251","score":null,"sort":[1414114512000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"test-kitchen-how-to-buy-the-safest-meat-and-make-the-juiciest-steaks","title":"'Test Kitchen': How To Buy The Safest Meat And Make The Juiciest Steaks","publishDate":1414114512,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_89252\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/sfs_pansearedsteakbw_0011_1-photog-carltremblay_wide-693100e37cc28c969606fe4fceb90299bdff75f0-e1414101459604.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/sfs_pansearedsteakbw_0011_1-photog-carltremblay_wide-693100e37cc28c969606fe4fceb90299bdff75f0-e1414101459604.jpg\" alt=\"America's Test Kitchen recommends cooking meat, like this pan-seared steak, at a moderate temperature to seal in the juices. Photo: Carl Tremblay/Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\" width=\"1000\" height=\"563\" class=\"size-full wp-image-89252\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">America's Test Kitchen recommends cooking meat, like this pan-seared steak, at a moderate temperature to seal in the juices. Photo: Carl Tremblay/Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Listen to Fresh Air (10/23/14)\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/10/20141023_fa_01.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When shopping for meat, sometimes the options can be dizzying — what's the difference between an organic, free-range or air-chilled chicken? \u003cem>The Cook's Illustrated Meat Book \u003c/em>offers insights.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's about how to shop for, store, season and cook meat and poultry — and how to prevent contaminating your kitchen with bacteria from the raw meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/meatbook.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/meatbook.jpg\" alt=\"Cook's Illustrated Meat Book\" width=\"300\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-89259\">\u003c/a>\" 'Free range' can be a bit of a misnomer,\" Bridget Lancaster, executive food editor of the Test Kitchen, tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Terry Gross. \"When you see 'free range' or even 'pasture raised,' that doesn't necessarily mean that the hens and chickens are out roaming free and having a party outside. ... Unless you visit the chicken farm, you almost don't know how the chickens are being raised.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So she and Jack Bishop, editorial director of America's Test Kitchen, who edited the cookbook, suggest consumers look for the organic label.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The two editors also talk about whether you can defrost meat in a hurry, how to make the juiciest steak and why you shouldn't pack your burgers too tight.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On buying \"natural\" vs. \"organic\" meat \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Jack Bishop:\u003c/strong> The thing you really want to look for is the USDA organic seal. A lot of other terms may be on the label, including the term \"natural,\" but those aren't regulated by the government. So you really want to look for that organic seal, which indicates that you're getting a product [with] no hormones, no antibiotics, no pesticides in the feed. The farming practices are better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Natural\" just means no additives. And if you're buying a piece of meat and they haven't added anything to the piece of meat, it doesn't really say anything about the way the animal was raised, which is I think what most people are concerned about. In most cases that doesn't really mean very much when you're shopping for chicken or beef or pork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On purchasing \"water-chilled\" vs. \"air-chilled\" \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bishop:\u003c/strong> I think that whether [the meat] is water-chilled or air-chilled is a much bigger difference [than free-range vs. pasture-raised]. After the chicken has been plucked, in the processing they need to chill the bird and they can either do it by putting it in very cold water, or putting it in a very cold refrigerated area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_89254\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/sfs_extra-crunchy_fried_chicken-photog-carltremblay-2f238e2521ba6ae485888cceec0305752a728641-e1414113863752.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/sfs_extra-crunchy_fried_chicken-photog-carltremblay-2f238e2521ba6ae485888cceec0305752a728641-e1414113863752.jpg\" alt=\"Air-chilled chicken retains flavor and costs less than a water-chilled bird, says Jack Bishop, editorial director of America's Test Kitchen. Photo: Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-89254\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Air-chilled chicken retains flavor and costs less than a water-chilled bird, says Jack Bishop, editorial director of America's Test Kitchen. Photo: Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If they do it in the water, the bird picks up a lot of water weight — 5 to 10 percent additional water weight. And so in addition to paying for a lot of water, which doesn't seem like a very good deal, that water washes out the flavor and [the meat] is very bland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So one of the things that we recommend in the Test Kitchen is that you look for an \"air-chilled\" bird. ... If you read the label carefully, you can see those words on there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the myth that searing seals in the juices \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bridget Lancaster:\u003c/strong> I think people think it's true because when you're searing meat, you're kind of tightening the exterior so ... [they think] that it's trapping that juice inside. But actually the opposite is happening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Any time you introduce meat or poultry to really high heat, whether it's a very hot oven or right on the stovetop, that contraction of the meat fibers [is] squeezing out liquid. So the higher the heat, the faster this happens. ... If you sear something over high heat, you'll have a much drier piece of meat or poultry than if you cook it at a more moderate temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On defrosting meat in a hurry \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bishop:\u003c/strong> This only applies to small pieces of meat, so a chicken breast or an individual steak — it does not apply to a roast or a whole bird. But if you want to put it (still in its zipper-lock bag) in hot tap water, put it in a bowl and fill it with hot tap water. We found that actually works — it only takes 30 minutes, so there's not enough time for the bacteria to start growing as opposed to if you just throw it out on the counter and it has been eight hours sitting on the counter defrosting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In about 30 minutes, if you're talking about a 6- or 8- or even 10-ounce piece of meat, it's going to be thawed enough that you can go ahead and cook it. ... It's [a] much better way than if you do it in the microwave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On letting meat rest after cooking\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lancaster:\u003c/strong> For steaks, you usually want to rest them for the bare minimum 10 minutes, 20 minutes even, if you have the time. You want to tent the steaks with a piece of foil to keep them nice and warm but the resting is actually the final step of cooking. When you take meat out of an oven or off the stovetop, it still is cooking. It has a lot of residual heat still in the meat, so by letting it rest, you're allowing those meat fibers to relax. Any of the meat juices that have been pushed toward the exterior of the meat are now absorbed into the steaks in this case, and again, you'll have a much easier time slicing it with those juices staying in the meat instead of flooding your carving board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On why you shouldn't pack your burgers too tight \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lancaster:\u003c/strong> Every time you touch, grind, move, look at ground meat, it starts to release a protein that's really, really sticky called myosin. ... Basically, when you grind beef, you're damaging the meat fibers — so the more you damage it or touch it or pack it, the more of that sticky protein is going to be formed. And the sticky protein sometimes might not be a bad thing — for instance, [for] something like meatloaf, where you want a bit more cohesion. But for a burger, where you're going to bite into it, you want it to almost just hang together. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We kind of bundle the meat into mounds and then very gently pack the meat into patties. By \"pack,\" I really mean it's ... hands-off — it's like you're cradling a newborn baby, almost. You have to be very, very gentle with it. The best part of that is the surface of the burger itself is not completely smooth — it's got all these crags and crevices in it. So when you go to cook it, you're going to have a really nice crust that forms on the sides of the beef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On buttermilk mashed potatoes \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bishop:\u003c/strong> You actually don't boil the potatoes and then drain them and then add the dairy. You cook the potatoes right in the buttermilk. You're doing this in a covered pot; you're kind of braising the potatoes in the flavoring agent. You add a little baking soda to them to help break them down — and then when you've got the potato cubes nicely cooked, you mash them right in the pot. At this point you add some butter to them, but there's no last-minute draining the potatoes in a colander in the sink. ... It's a one-pot operation. It's really simple.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003c/h3>\n\u003ch3>Tips For The Best Old-Fashioned Burgers\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/carl-tremblay-pubburger_custom-bb09fbaad11f516932edec17a4628a23ac8e72c3-e1414113988669.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/carl-tremblay-pubburger_custom-bb09fbaad11f516932edec17a4628a23ac8e72c3-e1414113988669.jpg\" alt=\"To make the best (and safest) burger, America's Test Kitchen recommends grinding the meat at home and packing it loosely.\" width=\"300\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-89253\">\u003c/a>*Start with grinding larger cuts of beef instead of buying pre-ground beef. Pre-ground beef is usually ground too fine, and overgrinding creates a tougher patty (the sticky protein myosin is released each time the beef is damaged).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Grinding beef at home is safer. Pre-ground beef can contain the DNA from hundreds of different animals, which raises the risk of contamination.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*A combination of beef short ribs and sirloin steak tips are ground for flavor (steak tips) and richness (short ribs).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Par-freeze 1-inch chunks of beef for 15-25 minutes, then grind in batches in a food processor — no meat grinder necessary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Pack the patties loosely. This creates a more tender burger and allows the fat in the meat to bubble to the surface and drip back down into the meat. The result is a juicier burger with a hearty crust.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>The Cook's Illustrated Meat Book.\u003cem> Excerpted by permission of America's Test Kitchen.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>How To Make Oven-Fried Bacon\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>*\u003c/strong>Use a rimmed baking sheet to hold and cook several strips of bacon at a time (instead of three to four in a skillet).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Cook in 400-degree oven until medium well done (9 to 10 minutes) or crisp (11 to 12 minutes.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Bacon does not need to be turned or flipped during cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Bacon is more evenly cooked, and stays flat in the pan — unlike skillet-cooked bacon, which curls and spatters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>The Cook's Illustrated Meat Book.\u003cem> Excerpted by permission of America's Test Kitchen.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_89255\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/sfs_buttermilk_mashed_potatoes-4_custom-0c7a37d975cf11cad82fe0dd534d2ba55d55e6f6-e1414114131112.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/sfs_buttermilk_mashed_potatoes-4_custom-0c7a37d975cf11cad82fe0dd534d2ba55d55e6f6-e1414114131112.jpg\" alt=\"Buttermilk mashed potatoes. Photo: Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-89255\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Buttermilk mashed potatoes. Photo: Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ideally, buttermilk mashed potatoes should be simultaneously tart and rich, like a baked potato drenched in butter and dolloped with sour cream. But when I simply stirred buttermilk instead of the usual cream into boiled and mashed Yukon gold potatoes (their naturally creamy texture lends itself to a mash), the buttermilk flavor never showed up. The obvious fix — more buttermilk — turned the mash into soup. For other recipes, the test kitchen has had success cooking potatoes in cream rather than boiling them in water. The potatoes drink up the cream, and you can imagine how fabulous that tastes. I tried the same method with buttermilk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Following our recipe ratios, I peeled and cubed 2 pounds of potatoes and cooked them with butter, salt, and 1 1/2 cups of buttermilk. But when I uncovered the pot 25 minutes later, I discovered things had gone drastically wrong. The buttermilk had separated, the potato cubes hadn't softened, and the mash was so sour, tasters wondered if I'd checked the date on the buttermilk carton. Happily, the separated buttermilk turned out to be a nonissue — once I mashed the potatoes, the problem disappeared. Buttermilk is acidic, and I knew acid slows cooking. I figured that's why the potatoes weren't cooking all the way through.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To balance the buttermilk, I added a pinch of baking soda — an old test kitchen trick; now, the potatoes cooked through expediently. At the same time, I gradually cut the buttermilk back, landing at 1 cup thinned with 6 tablespoons of water. This kept the sourness in check, but now that the buttermilk was simmering for a half-hour, its flavor dulled. The next time I made the mash, I held back 1/4 cup of the buttermilk and folded it in at the end.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(Serves 4)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't be alarmed if the buttermilk looks separated. Once you mash in the potatoes, the puree comes together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled, quartered and cut into 1/2-inch pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup buttermilk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 tablespoons water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/8 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Add potatoes, 2 tablespoons butter, 3/4 cup buttermilk, water, baking soda, and 1/2 teaspoon salt to a Dutch oven and stir to combine. Bring to boil, cover, and reduce heat to low. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are nearly tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove lid and cook over medium heat until liquid has nearly evaporated, about 3 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Off heat, add remaining butter to pot and mash with potato masher until smooth. Using rubber spatula, fold in remaining buttermilk until absorbed and potatoes are creamy. Season with salt and pepper. Serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>The Cook's Illustrated Meat Book.\u003cem> Excerpted by permission of America's Test Kitchen.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"\u003cem>The Cook's Illustrated Meat Book\u003c/em> gives tips on how to shop for, store, season and cook meat. Why shouldn't you pack your burgers too tight? Two America's Test Kitchen editors explain.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1414114512,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":54,"wordCount":2069},"headData":{"title":"'Test Kitchen': How To Buy The Safest Meat And Make The Juiciest Steaks | KQED","description":"The Cook's Illustrated Meat Book gives tips on how to shop for, store, season and cook meat. Why shouldn't you pack your burgers too tight? Two America's Test Kitchen editors explain.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"89251 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=89251","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/10/23/test-kitchen-how-to-buy-the-safest-meat-and-make-the-juiciest-steaks/","disqusTitle":"'Test Kitchen': How To Buy The Safest Meat And Make The Juiciest Steaks","nprStoryId":"358101692","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=358101692&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/10/23/358101692/test-kitchen-how-to-buy-the-safest-meat-and-make-the-juiciest-steaks?ft=3&f=358101692","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 23 Oct 2014 16:24:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 23 Oct 2014 13:22:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 23 Oct 2014 16:23:57 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/10/20141023_fa_01.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=358101692","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1358347060-c735d6.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=358101692","path":"/bayareabites/89251/test-kitchen-how-to-buy-the-safest-meat-and-make-the-juiciest-steaks","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/10/20141023_fa_01.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_89252\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/sfs_pansearedsteakbw_0011_1-photog-carltremblay_wide-693100e37cc28c969606fe4fceb90299bdff75f0-e1414101459604.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/sfs_pansearedsteakbw_0011_1-photog-carltremblay_wide-693100e37cc28c969606fe4fceb90299bdff75f0-e1414101459604.jpg\" alt=\"America's Test Kitchen recommends cooking meat, like this pan-seared steak, at a moderate temperature to seal in the juices. Photo: Carl Tremblay/Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\" width=\"1000\" height=\"563\" class=\"size-full wp-image-89252\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">America's Test Kitchen recommends cooking meat, like this pan-seared steak, at a moderate temperature to seal in the juices. Photo: Carl Tremblay/Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Listen to Fresh Air (10/23/14)\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/10/20141023_fa_01.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When shopping for meat, sometimes the options can be dizzying — what's the difference between an organic, free-range or air-chilled chicken? \u003cem>The Cook's Illustrated Meat Book \u003c/em>offers insights.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's about how to shop for, store, season and cook meat and poultry — and how to prevent contaminating your kitchen with bacteria from the raw meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/meatbook.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/meatbook.jpg\" alt=\"Cook's Illustrated Meat Book\" width=\"300\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-89259\">\u003c/a>\" 'Free range' can be a bit of a misnomer,\" Bridget Lancaster, executive food editor of the Test Kitchen, tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Terry Gross. \"When you see 'free range' or even 'pasture raised,' that doesn't necessarily mean that the hens and chickens are out roaming free and having a party outside. ... Unless you visit the chicken farm, you almost don't know how the chickens are being raised.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So she and Jack Bishop, editorial director of America's Test Kitchen, who edited the cookbook, suggest consumers look for the organic label.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The two editors also talk about whether you can defrost meat in a hurry, how to make the juiciest steak and why you shouldn't pack your burgers too tight.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Interview Highlights\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On buying \"natural\" vs. \"organic\" meat \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Jack Bishop:\u003c/strong> The thing you really want to look for is the USDA organic seal. A lot of other terms may be on the label, including the term \"natural,\" but those aren't regulated by the government. So you really want to look for that organic seal, which indicates that you're getting a product [with] no hormones, no antibiotics, no pesticides in the feed. The farming practices are better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Natural\" just means no additives. And if you're buying a piece of meat and they haven't added anything to the piece of meat, it doesn't really say anything about the way the animal was raised, which is I think what most people are concerned about. In most cases that doesn't really mean very much when you're shopping for chicken or beef or pork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On purchasing \"water-chilled\" vs. \"air-chilled\" \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bishop:\u003c/strong> I think that whether [the meat] is water-chilled or air-chilled is a much bigger difference [than free-range vs. pasture-raised]. After the chicken has been plucked, in the processing they need to chill the bird and they can either do it by putting it in very cold water, or putting it in a very cold refrigerated area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_89254\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/sfs_extra-crunchy_fried_chicken-photog-carltremblay-2f238e2521ba6ae485888cceec0305752a728641-e1414113863752.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/sfs_extra-crunchy_fried_chicken-photog-carltremblay-2f238e2521ba6ae485888cceec0305752a728641-e1414113863752.jpg\" alt=\"Air-chilled chicken retains flavor and costs less than a water-chilled bird, says Jack Bishop, editorial director of America's Test Kitchen. Photo: Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-89254\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Air-chilled chicken retains flavor and costs less than a water-chilled bird, says Jack Bishop, editorial director of America's Test Kitchen. Photo: Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If they do it in the water, the bird picks up a lot of water weight — 5 to 10 percent additional water weight. And so in addition to paying for a lot of water, which doesn't seem like a very good deal, that water washes out the flavor and [the meat] is very bland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So one of the things that we recommend in the Test Kitchen is that you look for an \"air-chilled\" bird. ... If you read the label carefully, you can see those words on there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the myth that searing seals in the juices \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bridget Lancaster:\u003c/strong> I think people think it's true because when you're searing meat, you're kind of tightening the exterior so ... [they think] that it's trapping that juice inside. But actually the opposite is happening.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Any time you introduce meat or poultry to really high heat, whether it's a very hot oven or right on the stovetop, that contraction of the meat fibers [is] squeezing out liquid. So the higher the heat, the faster this happens. ... If you sear something over high heat, you'll have a much drier piece of meat or poultry than if you cook it at a more moderate temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On defrosting meat in a hurry \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bishop:\u003c/strong> This only applies to small pieces of meat, so a chicken breast or an individual steak — it does not apply to a roast or a whole bird. But if you want to put it (still in its zipper-lock bag) in hot tap water, put it in a bowl and fill it with hot tap water. We found that actually works — it only takes 30 minutes, so there's not enough time for the bacteria to start growing as opposed to if you just throw it out on the counter and it has been eight hours sitting on the counter defrosting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In about 30 minutes, if you're talking about a 6- or 8- or even 10-ounce piece of meat, it's going to be thawed enough that you can go ahead and cook it. ... It's [a] much better way than if you do it in the microwave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On letting meat rest after cooking\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lancaster:\u003c/strong> For steaks, you usually want to rest them for the bare minimum 10 minutes, 20 minutes even, if you have the time. You want to tent the steaks with a piece of foil to keep them nice and warm but the resting is actually the final step of cooking. When you take meat out of an oven or off the stovetop, it still is cooking. It has a lot of residual heat still in the meat, so by letting it rest, you're allowing those meat fibers to relax. Any of the meat juices that have been pushed toward the exterior of the meat are now absorbed into the steaks in this case, and again, you'll have a much easier time slicing it with those juices staying in the meat instead of flooding your carving board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On why you shouldn't pack your burgers too tight \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lancaster:\u003c/strong> Every time you touch, grind, move, look at ground meat, it starts to release a protein that's really, really sticky called myosin. ... Basically, when you grind beef, you're damaging the meat fibers — so the more you damage it or touch it or pack it, the more of that sticky protein is going to be formed. And the sticky protein sometimes might not be a bad thing — for instance, [for] something like meatloaf, where you want a bit more cohesion. But for a burger, where you're going to bite into it, you want it to almost just hang together. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We kind of bundle the meat into mounds and then very gently pack the meat into patties. By \"pack,\" I really mean it's ... hands-off — it's like you're cradling a newborn baby, almost. You have to be very, very gentle with it. The best part of that is the surface of the burger itself is not completely smooth — it's got all these crags and crevices in it. So when you go to cook it, you're going to have a really nice crust that forms on the sides of the beef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On buttermilk mashed potatoes \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bishop:\u003c/strong> You actually don't boil the potatoes and then drain them and then add the dairy. You cook the potatoes right in the buttermilk. You're doing this in a covered pot; you're kind of braising the potatoes in the flavoring agent. You add a little baking soda to them to help break them down — and then when you've got the potato cubes nicely cooked, you mash them right in the pot. At this point you add some butter to them, but there's no last-minute draining the potatoes in a colander in the sink. ... It's a one-pot operation. It's really simple.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003c/h3>\n\u003ch3>Tips For The Best Old-Fashioned Burgers\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/carl-tremblay-pubburger_custom-bb09fbaad11f516932edec17a4628a23ac8e72c3-e1414113988669.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/carl-tremblay-pubburger_custom-bb09fbaad11f516932edec17a4628a23ac8e72c3-e1414113988669.jpg\" alt=\"To make the best (and safest) burger, America's Test Kitchen recommends grinding the meat at home and packing it loosely.\" width=\"300\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-89253\">\u003c/a>*Start with grinding larger cuts of beef instead of buying pre-ground beef. Pre-ground beef is usually ground too fine, and overgrinding creates a tougher patty (the sticky protein myosin is released each time the beef is damaged).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Grinding beef at home is safer. Pre-ground beef can contain the DNA from hundreds of different animals, which raises the risk of contamination.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*A combination of beef short ribs and sirloin steak tips are ground for flavor (steak tips) and richness (short ribs).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Par-freeze 1-inch chunks of beef for 15-25 minutes, then grind in batches in a food processor — no meat grinder necessary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Pack the patties loosely. This creates a more tender burger and allows the fat in the meat to bubble to the surface and drip back down into the meat. The result is a juicier burger with a hearty crust.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>The Cook's Illustrated Meat Book.\u003cem> Excerpted by permission of America's Test Kitchen.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>How To Make Oven-Fried Bacon\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>*\u003c/strong>Use a rimmed baking sheet to hold and cook several strips of bacon at a time (instead of three to four in a skillet).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Cook in 400-degree oven until medium well done (9 to 10 minutes) or crisp (11 to 12 minutes.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Bacon does not need to be turned or flipped during cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>*Bacon is more evenly cooked, and stays flat in the pan — unlike skillet-cooked bacon, which curls and spatters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>The Cook's Illustrated Meat Book.\u003cem> Excerpted by permission of America's Test Kitchen.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_89255\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/sfs_buttermilk_mashed_potatoes-4_custom-0c7a37d975cf11cad82fe0dd534d2ba55d55e6f6-e1414114131112.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/10/sfs_buttermilk_mashed_potatoes-4_custom-0c7a37d975cf11cad82fe0dd534d2ba55d55e6f6-e1414114131112.jpg\" alt=\"Buttermilk mashed potatoes. Photo: Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-89255\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Buttermilk mashed potatoes. Photo: Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ideally, buttermilk mashed potatoes should be simultaneously tart and rich, like a baked potato drenched in butter and dolloped with sour cream. But when I simply stirred buttermilk instead of the usual cream into boiled and mashed Yukon gold potatoes (their naturally creamy texture lends itself to a mash), the buttermilk flavor never showed up. The obvious fix — more buttermilk — turned the mash into soup. For other recipes, the test kitchen has had success cooking potatoes in cream rather than boiling them in water. The potatoes drink up the cream, and you can imagine how fabulous that tastes. I tried the same method with buttermilk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Following our recipe ratios, I peeled and cubed 2 pounds of potatoes and cooked them with butter, salt, and 1 1/2 cups of buttermilk. But when I uncovered the pot 25 minutes later, I discovered things had gone drastically wrong. The buttermilk had separated, the potato cubes hadn't softened, and the mash was so sour, tasters wondered if I'd checked the date on the buttermilk carton. Happily, the separated buttermilk turned out to be a nonissue — once I mashed the potatoes, the problem disappeared. Buttermilk is acidic, and I knew acid slows cooking. I figured that's why the potatoes weren't cooking all the way through.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To balance the buttermilk, I added a pinch of baking soda — an old test kitchen trick; now, the potatoes cooked through expediently. At the same time, I gradually cut the buttermilk back, landing at 1 cup thinned with 6 tablespoons of water. This kept the sourness in check, but now that the buttermilk was simmering for a half-hour, its flavor dulled. The next time I made the mash, I held back 1/4 cup of the buttermilk and folded it in at the end.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(Serves 4)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't be alarmed if the buttermilk looks separated. Once you mash in the potatoes, the puree comes together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled, quartered and cut into 1/2-inch pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup buttermilk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 tablespoons water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/8 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Add potatoes, 2 tablespoons butter, 3/4 cup buttermilk, water, baking soda, and 1/2 teaspoon salt to a Dutch oven and stir to combine. Bring to boil, cover, and reduce heat to low. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are nearly tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove lid and cook over medium heat until liquid has nearly evaporated, about 3 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Off heat, add remaining butter to pot and mash with potato masher until smooth. Using rubber spatula, fold in remaining buttermilk until absorbed and potatoes are creamy. Season with salt and pepper. Serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>The Cook's Illustrated Meat Book.\u003cem> Excerpted by permission of America's Test Kitchen.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/89251/test-kitchen-how-to-buy-the-safest-meat-and-make-the-juiciest-steaks","authors":["5403"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_12147","bayareabites_1964","bayareabites_11278","bayareabites_243","bayareabites_13903"],"featImg":"bayareabites_89252","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_86332":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_86332","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"86332","score":null,"sort":[1408463191000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"seeking-proof-for-why-we-feel-terrible-after-too-many-drinks","title":"Seeking Proof For Why We Feel Terrible After Too Many Drinks","publishDate":1408463191,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/08/18/341360729/seeking-proof-for-why-we-feel-terrible-after-too-many-drinks\" target=\"_blank\">Fresh Air\u003c/a>:\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/08/20140818_fa_02.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/341360832/proof-the-science-of-booze\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/proof-cover.jpg\" alt=\"Proof: The Science of Booze\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-86338\">\u003c/a>It can be nice to relax with a glass of wine, a beer or a shot of whiskey. But one drink too many, and you may be paying the price.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To understand why drinking can make us feel so good and so bad, you have to know a little about science, says journalist Adam Rogers, author of \u003cem>Proof: The Science of Booze\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Rogers notes, researchers have only just begun to explore the mystery of the hangover and share a common language around it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Hangovers have different symptoms for different people,\" Rogers tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Terry Gross. \"Some people wear their hangovers in their guts and some people have horrible headaches, but we still see all of those things as a hangover.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rogers talks about the myths of hangovers — and how hangovers can be an inflammatory response, like the flu.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86334\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/adam-rogers-c-celine-mikahala-grouard_custom-c56c4c5ee2900f9079fc5760588a210229cdf6f2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/adam-rogers-c-celine-mikahala-grouard_custom-c56c4c5ee2900f9079fc5760588a210229cdf6f2.jpg\" alt=\"Adam Rogers is the articles editor at Wired and formerly covered science and technology for Newsweek. Photo: Celine Mikahala Grouard\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86334\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Adam Rogers is the articles editor at Wired and formerly covered science and technology for Newsweek. Photo: Celine Mikahala Grouard\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview Highlights\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the myths of hangovers \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The famous one is probably dehydration. Everyone will tell you, \"Oh, it's because alcohol dehydrates you and that's what's causing the hangover.\"... [So you're told to] alternate [between water and alcohol], or have a big glass of water before you go to bed, and some of that comes from the fact that you do get dehydrated. But, in fact, the dehydration does not seem to be what's causing the hangover. You can fix the dehydration — and you're still hung over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[Also,] it's probably not the case that it's blood sugar that's causing the hangover. When you drink, your blood sugar levels are affected. But by the time you're hung over, your blood sugar levels are back to normal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's that thing about mixing your drinks — drinking beer and then drinking wine, right? Again, no, you can do the study where you can have somebody drinking the same drink and getting to the same blood alcohol level and somebody drinking different drinks and getting to the same blood alcohol and they both get the same hangover, they both report the same symptoms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On measuring and studying hangovers \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't until very recently that the researchers who studied hangovers even had a shared kind of language or vocabulary to even talk about them. They didn't even have a surveyed instrument that they could use to give people to have a reliable account of whether your hangover was worse than mine or different from mine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On a hangover being an inflammatory response \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[Scientists] finally have a survey instrument that they can give somebody and assess, \"You have a Level 9 hangover, and you have a Level 7 hangover,\" and they finally started to see that overlap with both migraine and also an inflammatory response, so the kind of thing you would have if you had the flu — where you feel achy and you feel slow and your brain doesn't work as fast and [you have] general malaise. Looking at that, they can go, \"K, let's see if in fact this is an inflammation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you look at people with hangovers, the same markers in the blood that you would see with an inflammatory response, things like cytokines, for example — which are molecule[s] that the immune [system] uses to talk to itself — actually do seem elevated, and even better, you can induce what looks like a hangover by giving somebody those same molecules. ... That's good news because if you say, \"Well, it's an inflammatory response,\" then maybe I can go with anti-inflammatory drugs, and we have those. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Author Adam Rogers says there are lots of myths about what causes hangovers. His new book, \u003cem>Proof: The Science of Booze,\u003c/em> explores these and other scientific mysteries of alcohol's effect on the body.\u003cem>\u003c/em>","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1408463224,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":18,"wordCount":641},"headData":{"title":"Seeking Proof For Why We Feel Terrible After Too Many Drinks | KQED","description":"Author Adam Rogers says there are lots of myths about what causes hangovers. His new book, Proof: The Science of Booze, explores these and other scientific mysteries of alcohol's effect on the body.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"86332 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=86332","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/08/19/seeking-proof-for-why-we-feel-terrible-after-too-many-drinks/","disqusTitle":"Seeking Proof For Why We Feel Terrible After Too Many Drinks","nprStoryId":"341360729","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=341360729&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/08/18/341360729/seeking-proof-for-why-we-feel-terrible-after-too-many-drinks?ft=3&f=341360729","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 18 Aug 2014 17:04:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 18 Aug 2014 15:35:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 18 Aug 2014 17:04:25 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/08/20140818_fa_02.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1033&ft=3&f=341360729","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1341407638-1a0f1a.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1033&ft=3&f=341360729","path":"/bayareabites/86332/seeking-proof-for-why-we-feel-terrible-after-too-many-drinks","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/08/20140818_fa_02.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/08/18/341360729/seeking-proof-for-why-we-feel-terrible-after-too-many-drinks\" target=\"_blank\">Fresh Air\u003c/a>:\u003cbr>\nhttp://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/08/20140818_fa_02.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/341360832/proof-the-science-of-booze\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/proof-cover.jpg\" alt=\"Proof: The Science of Booze\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-86338\">\u003c/a>It can be nice to relax with a glass of wine, a beer or a shot of whiskey. But one drink too many, and you may be paying the price.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To understand why drinking can make us feel so good and so bad, you have to know a little about science, says journalist Adam Rogers, author of \u003cem>Proof: The Science of Booze\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Rogers notes, researchers have only just begun to explore the mystery of the hangover and share a common language around it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Hangovers have different symptoms for different people,\" Rogers tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Terry Gross. \"Some people wear their hangovers in their guts and some people have horrible headaches, but we still see all of those things as a hangover.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rogers talks about the myths of hangovers — and how hangovers can be an inflammatory response, like the flu.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_86334\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/adam-rogers-c-celine-mikahala-grouard_custom-c56c4c5ee2900f9079fc5760588a210229cdf6f2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/08/adam-rogers-c-celine-mikahala-grouard_custom-c56c4c5ee2900f9079fc5760588a210229cdf6f2.jpg\" alt=\"Adam Rogers is the articles editor at Wired and formerly covered science and technology for Newsweek. Photo: Celine Mikahala Grouard\" width=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-86334\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Adam Rogers is the articles editor at Wired and formerly covered science and technology for Newsweek. Photo: Celine Mikahala Grouard\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview Highlights\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the myths of hangovers \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The famous one is probably dehydration. Everyone will tell you, \"Oh, it's because alcohol dehydrates you and that's what's causing the hangover.\"... [So you're told to] alternate [between water and alcohol], or have a big glass of water before you go to bed, and some of that comes from the fact that you do get dehydrated. But, in fact, the dehydration does not seem to be what's causing the hangover. You can fix the dehydration — and you're still hung over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[Also,] it's probably not the case that it's blood sugar that's causing the hangover. When you drink, your blood sugar levels are affected. But by the time you're hung over, your blood sugar levels are back to normal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's that thing about mixing your drinks — drinking beer and then drinking wine, right? Again, no, you can do the study where you can have somebody drinking the same drink and getting to the same blood alcohol level and somebody drinking different drinks and getting to the same blood alcohol and they both get the same hangover, they both report the same symptoms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On measuring and studying hangovers \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't until very recently that the researchers who studied hangovers even had a shared kind of language or vocabulary to even talk about them. They didn't even have a surveyed instrument that they could use to give people to have a reliable account of whether your hangover was worse than mine or different from mine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On a hangover being an inflammatory response \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[Scientists] finally have a survey instrument that they can give somebody and assess, \"You have a Level 9 hangover, and you have a Level 7 hangover,\" and they finally started to see that overlap with both migraine and also an inflammatory response, so the kind of thing you would have if you had the flu — where you feel achy and you feel slow and your brain doesn't work as fast and [you have] general malaise. Looking at that, they can go, \"K, let's see if in fact this is an inflammation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you look at people with hangovers, the same markers in the blood that you would see with an inflammatory response, things like cytokines, for example — which are molecule[s] that the immune [system] uses to talk to itself — actually do seem elevated, and even better, you can induce what looks like a hangover by giving somebody those same molecules. ... That's good news because if you say, \"Well, it's an inflammatory response,\" then maybe I can go with anti-inflammatory drugs, and we have those. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/86332/seeking-proof-for-why-we-feel-terrible-after-too-many-drinks","authors":["5403"],"categories":["bayareabites_301","bayareabites_13306","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_1244","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_119"],"tags":["bayareabites_13710","bayareabites_8359","bayareabites_11278","bayareabites_2688"],"featImg":"bayareabites_86333","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_84398":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_84398","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"84398","score":null,"sort":[1404266869000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-great-fish-swap-how-america-is-downgrading-its-seafood-supply","title":"'The Great Fish Swap': How America Is Downgrading Its Seafood Supply","publishDate":1404266869,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_84399\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3258px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/ap602703023166_wide-da66ea432b75f0ff0ba7c0a3900379df433f01cb.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/ap602703023166_wide-da66ea432b75f0ff0ba7c0a3900379df433f01cb.jpg\" alt='Paul Greenberg says the decline of local fish markets, and the resulting sequestration of seafood to a corner of our supermarkets, has contributed to \"the facelessness and comodification of seafood.\" Photo: J. Scott Applewhite/AP' width=\"3258\" height=\"1833\" class=\"size-full wp-image-84399\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Paul Greenberg says the decline of local fish markets, and the resulting sequestration of seafood to a corner of our supermarkets, has contributed to \"the facelessness and comodification of seafood.\" Photo: J. Scott Applewhite/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/07/01/327248504/the-great-fish-swap-how-america-is-downgrading-its-seafood-supply\">Fresh Air\u003c/a> (7/1/14) [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/07/20140701_fa_01.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's the most popular seafood in the U.S.? Shrimp. The average American eats more shrimp per capita than tuna and salmon combined. Most of that shrimp comes from Asia, and most of the salmon we eat is also imported. In fact, 91 percent of the seafood Americans eat comes from abroad, but one-third of the seafood Americans \u003cem>catch\u003c/em> gets sold to other countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shrimp and salmon are two case studies in the unraveling of America's seafood economy, according to Paul Greenberg, author of the new book \u003cem>American Catch: The Fight for Our Local Seafood.\u003c/em> Greenberg tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Terry Gross about what's driving the changes in America's seafood economy and why you should buy wild salmon frozen when its out of season.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview Highlights\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/327248318/american-catch-the-fight-for-our-local-seafood\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/fish-american-catch.jpg\" alt=\"American Catch: The Fight for Our Local Seafood by Paul Greenberg\" width=\"300\" height=\"455\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-84407\">\u003c/a>\u003cstrong>On what Greenberg calls \"The Great Fish Swap\" \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I think we're doing is we're low-grading our seafood supply. In effect what we're doing is we're sending the really great, wild stuff that we harvest here on our shores abroad, and in exchange, we're importing farm stuff that, frankly, is of an increasingly dubious nature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We export millions of tons of wild, mostly Alaska salmon abroad and import mostly farmed salmon from abroad. So salmon for salmon, we're trading wild for farmed. Another great example of this fish swap is the swapping of Alaska pollack for tilapia and pangasius [catfish]. \u003ca href=\"http://www.laweekly.com/squidink/2014/02/26/is-mcdonalds-fish-sandwich-what-fast-food-is-supposed-to-be\">Alaska pollack\u003c/a> is the thing in [McDonald's] Filet-O-Fish sandwich; it's the thing in that fake crab that you find in your California roll. We use a lot of pollack ourselves, but we send 600 million pounds of it abroad every year. And in the other direction, we get a similarly white flaky fish — tilapia or pangasius — coming to us mostly from China and Vietnam. They fill a similar fish niche, but they're very different.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On why the U.S. exports the best-quality fish \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We only eat about 15 pounds of seafood per year per capita. That's half of the global average, so there's that. The other thing is that other countries really are hip to seafood. The Chinese love seafood; the Japanese, the Koreans — they love seafood. They're willing to pay top dollar for it. We just aren't willing to do so. We want our food cheap and easy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of this fast-food commodification of seafood protein — because that's kind of what it is at this point — adds to that general preference for cheap stuff. Kind of in tandem and in league with that is the American tendency to avoid taste. ... Foodies [talk] about flavor and texture and the food movement and that kind of thing, and that's true of about 5 percent of Americans, but 95 percent of Americans really are not so into flavor. ... If we don't like the flavorsome fish — like bluefish, mackerel, things like oysters, things that really taste of the sea — if we don't like that, then we're going to go for these generic, homogenized, industrialized products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On sending American salmon to China and back for cheap labor \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_84400\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/paul-greenberg-c-justin-schein-318f4aab482515f2e5dfaaf90e525bfddad8bc1d.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/paul-greenberg-c-justin-schein-318f4aab482515f2e5dfaaf90e525bfddad8bc1d-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Paul Greenberg is also the author of Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food. Photo: Justin Schein/Courtesy of Penguin Press\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-84400\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Paul Greenberg is also the author of Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food. Photo: Justin Schein/Courtesy of Penguin Press\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A certain amount of Alaska salmon gets caught by Americans in Alaska, sent to China, defrosted, filleted, boned, refrozen and sent back to us. How's that for food miles? We don't want to pay the labor involved in boning fish and more and more of that fish that used to go make that round trip is actually staying in China because the Chinese are realizing how good it is, much to our detriment. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The labor is so much cheaper that it makes the shipping cost-effective. When you ship things via freighter, frozen, the cost per mile is relatively low compared to, say, air freighting or train travel or truck freighting.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On why you should buy wild salmon frozen, not fresh, if it's out of season \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's going to be frozen anyway. I sometimes will go to a supermarket in January and I'll see fresh, wild Alaska salmon sitting out there on ice and I just shake my head at it because I know that if it's January, there's a very little chance that that fish is fresh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearly all of the salmon, when it comes into the processing plants in Alaska, gets immediately frozen. And that's great because if you freeze a fish right out of the water it will be of the highest quality that you can get out of a frozen product. So when you go to the supermarket in January, don't go to the fresh seafood counter for your salmon; go to the frozen bins and get those nice vacuum-packed Alaska salmon things. They're just going to be of higher quality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On slave labor and the Thai shrimp industry \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The largest shrimp producer for us right now is Thailand. ... It turns out, a certain amount of the shrimp that come to us from Thailand seems to be coming to us in part as the result of \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2014/06/21/world/asia/us-gives-thailand-and-malaysia-lowest-grade-on-human-trafficking.html\">slave labor\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shrimp are fed wild fish ground up and turned into meal — trash fish, they're called, just random fish that are trolled up in the South China Sea. It turns out, a large amount of that fish is being caught by boats in which the labor onboard are slaves and that fish gets ground up and sold to Thai shrimp farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the decline of local fish markets \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We don't want fish markets in our view shed. We don't want to smell them. We don't want to look at them. So they really have been banished from the center of our cities and sequestered to a corner of our supermarkets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a process that aids all of the facelessness and commodification of seafood. ... Seafood has been taken out of the hands of the experts and put into the hands of the traders, so people really cannot identify the specificity of fish anymore. Because supermarkets rely on mass distribution systems, often frozen product, it means that the relationship between coastal producers of seafood is broken and so it's much easier for them to deal with the Syscos of the world, or these large purveyors that use these massive shrimp operations in Thailand or China, than it is for them to deal with the kind of knotty nature of local fishermen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"One-third of the seafood Americans catch is sold abroad, but most of the seafood we eat here is imported and often of lower quality. Why? Author Paul Greenberg says it has to do with American tastes.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1404266869,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":1172},"headData":{"title":"'The Great Fish Swap': How America Is Downgrading Its Seafood Supply | KQED","description":"One-third of the seafood Americans catch is sold abroad, but most of the seafood we eat here is imported and often of lower quality. Why? Author Paul Greenberg says it has to do with American tastes.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"84398 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=84398","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/07/01/the-great-fish-swap-how-america-is-downgrading-its-seafood-supply/","disqusTitle":"'The Great Fish Swap': How America Is Downgrading Its Seafood Supply","nprStoryId":"327248504","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=327248504&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/07/01/327248504/the-great-fish-swap-how-america-is-downgrading-its-seafood-supply?ft=3&f=327248504","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 01 Jul 2014 15:46:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 01 Jul 2014 13:35:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 01 Jul 2014 15:44:19 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/07/20140701_fa_01.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1033&ft=3&f=327248504","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1327366423-863b6e.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1033&ft=3&f=327248504","path":"/bayareabites/84398/the-great-fish-swap-how-america-is-downgrading-its-seafood-supply","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/07/20140701_fa_01.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_84399\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3258px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/ap602703023166_wide-da66ea432b75f0ff0ba7c0a3900379df433f01cb.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/ap602703023166_wide-da66ea432b75f0ff0ba7c0a3900379df433f01cb.jpg\" alt='Paul Greenberg says the decline of local fish markets, and the resulting sequestration of seafood to a corner of our supermarkets, has contributed to \"the facelessness and comodification of seafood.\" Photo: J. Scott Applewhite/AP' width=\"3258\" height=\"1833\" class=\"size-full wp-image-84399\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Paul Greenberg says the decline of local fish markets, and the resulting sequestration of seafood to a corner of our supermarkets, has contributed to \"the facelessness and comodification of seafood.\" Photo: J. Scott Applewhite/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/07/01/327248504/the-great-fish-swap-how-america-is-downgrading-its-seafood-supply\">Fresh Air\u003c/a> (7/1/14) \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/07/20140701_fa_01.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's the most popular seafood in the U.S.? Shrimp. The average American eats more shrimp per capita than tuna and salmon combined. Most of that shrimp comes from Asia, and most of the salmon we eat is also imported. In fact, 91 percent of the seafood Americans eat comes from abroad, but one-third of the seafood Americans \u003cem>catch\u003c/em> gets sold to other countries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shrimp and salmon are two case studies in the unraveling of America's seafood economy, according to Paul Greenberg, author of the new book \u003cem>American Catch: The Fight for Our Local Seafood.\u003c/em> Greenberg tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Terry Gross about what's driving the changes in America's seafood economy and why you should buy wild salmon frozen when its out of season.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview Highlights\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/327248318/american-catch-the-fight-for-our-local-seafood\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/fish-american-catch.jpg\" alt=\"American Catch: The Fight for Our Local Seafood by Paul Greenberg\" width=\"300\" height=\"455\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-84407\">\u003c/a>\u003cstrong>On what Greenberg calls \"The Great Fish Swap\" \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I think we're doing is we're low-grading our seafood supply. In effect what we're doing is we're sending the really great, wild stuff that we harvest here on our shores abroad, and in exchange, we're importing farm stuff that, frankly, is of an increasingly dubious nature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We export millions of tons of wild, mostly Alaska salmon abroad and import mostly farmed salmon from abroad. So salmon for salmon, we're trading wild for farmed. Another great example of this fish swap is the swapping of Alaska pollack for tilapia and pangasius [catfish]. \u003ca href=\"http://www.laweekly.com/squidink/2014/02/26/is-mcdonalds-fish-sandwich-what-fast-food-is-supposed-to-be\">Alaska pollack\u003c/a> is the thing in [McDonald's] Filet-O-Fish sandwich; it's the thing in that fake crab that you find in your California roll. We use a lot of pollack ourselves, but we send 600 million pounds of it abroad every year. And in the other direction, we get a similarly white flaky fish — tilapia or pangasius — coming to us mostly from China and Vietnam. They fill a similar fish niche, but they're very different.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On why the U.S. exports the best-quality fish \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We only eat about 15 pounds of seafood per year per capita. That's half of the global average, so there's that. The other thing is that other countries really are hip to seafood. The Chinese love seafood; the Japanese, the Koreans — they love seafood. They're willing to pay top dollar for it. We just aren't willing to do so. We want our food cheap and easy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of this fast-food commodification of seafood protein — because that's kind of what it is at this point — adds to that general preference for cheap stuff. Kind of in tandem and in league with that is the American tendency to avoid taste. ... Foodies [talk] about flavor and texture and the food movement and that kind of thing, and that's true of about 5 percent of Americans, but 95 percent of Americans really are not so into flavor. ... If we don't like the flavorsome fish — like bluefish, mackerel, things like oysters, things that really taste of the sea — if we don't like that, then we're going to go for these generic, homogenized, industrialized products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On sending American salmon to China and back for cheap labor \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_84400\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/paul-greenberg-c-justin-schein-318f4aab482515f2e5dfaaf90e525bfddad8bc1d.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/paul-greenberg-c-justin-schein-318f4aab482515f2e5dfaaf90e525bfddad8bc1d-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Paul Greenberg is also the author of Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food. Photo: Justin Schein/Courtesy of Penguin Press\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-84400\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Paul Greenberg is also the author of Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food. Photo: Justin Schein/Courtesy of Penguin Press\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A certain amount of Alaska salmon gets caught by Americans in Alaska, sent to China, defrosted, filleted, boned, refrozen and sent back to us. How's that for food miles? We don't want to pay the labor involved in boning fish and more and more of that fish that used to go make that round trip is actually staying in China because the Chinese are realizing how good it is, much to our detriment. ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The labor is so much cheaper that it makes the shipping cost-effective. When you ship things via freighter, frozen, the cost per mile is relatively low compared to, say, air freighting or train travel or truck freighting.\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On why you should buy wild salmon frozen, not fresh, if it's out of season \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's going to be frozen anyway. I sometimes will go to a supermarket in January and I'll see fresh, wild Alaska salmon sitting out there on ice and I just shake my head at it because I know that if it's January, there's a very little chance that that fish is fresh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearly all of the salmon, when it comes into the processing plants in Alaska, gets immediately frozen. And that's great because if you freeze a fish right out of the water it will be of the highest quality that you can get out of a frozen product. So when you go to the supermarket in January, don't go to the fresh seafood counter for your salmon; go to the frozen bins and get those nice vacuum-packed Alaska salmon things. They're just going to be of higher quality.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On slave labor and the Thai shrimp industry \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The largest shrimp producer for us right now is Thailand. ... It turns out, a certain amount of the shrimp that come to us from Thailand seems to be coming to us in part as the result of \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2014/06/21/world/asia/us-gives-thailand-and-malaysia-lowest-grade-on-human-trafficking.html\">slave labor\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shrimp are fed wild fish ground up and turned into meal — trash fish, they're called, just random fish that are trolled up in the South China Sea. It turns out, a large amount of that fish is being caught by boats in which the labor onboard are slaves and that fish gets ground up and sold to Thai shrimp farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the decline of local fish markets \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We don't want fish markets in our view shed. We don't want to smell them. We don't want to look at them. So they really have been banished from the center of our cities and sequestered to a corner of our supermarkets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is a process that aids all of the facelessness and commodification of seafood. ... Seafood has been taken out of the hands of the experts and put into the hands of the traders, so people really cannot identify the specificity of fish anymore. Because supermarkets rely on mass distribution systems, often frozen product, it means that the relationship between coastal producers of seafood is broken and so it's much easier for them to deal with the Syscos of the world, or these large purveyors that use these massive shrimp operations in Thailand or China, than it is for them to deal with the kind of knotty nature of local fishermen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/84398/the-great-fish-swap-how-america-is-downgrading-its-seafood-supply","authors":["5403"],"categories":["bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_376","bayareabites_11278","bayareabites_11721","bayareabites_9498","bayareabites_323","bayareabites_864"],"featImg":"bayareabites_84399","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_79335":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_79335","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"79335","score":null,"sort":[1395379474000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"test-kitchen-have-your-gluten-free-cake-and-love-eating-it-too","title":"'Test Kitchen': Have Your (Gluten-Free) Cake, And Love Eating It Too","publishDate":1395379474,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79337\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1536px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_birthday-cupcakes_0131_slide-4353dd59fef0db7dedc17fafbdb999da13a7b790.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-79337\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_birthday-cupcakes_0131_slide-4353dd59fef0db7dedc17fafbdb999da13a7b790.jpg\" alt=\"According to America's Test Kitchen, the best gluten-free flours to bake with contain four ingredients — brown rice flour, white rice flour, potato starch and tapioca starch. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\" width=\"1536\" height=\"1023\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">According to America's Test Kitchen, the best gluten-free flours to bake with contain four ingredients — brown rice flour, white rice flour, potato starch and tapioca starch. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/03/20/291873792/test-kitchen-have-your-gluten-free-cake-and-love-eating-it-too\">Fresh Air\u003c/a> (3/20/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/03/20140320_fa_01.mp3\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took hundreds of batches of muffins, cakes and cookies before Jack Bishop and Julia Collin Davison — of the public TV series \u003cem>America's Test Kitchen\u003c/em> — figured out the best ways to make delicious baked goods without gluten. They also conducted taste tests of packaged gluten-free breads and pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Terry Gross that the show's normal testing procedures \"really worked to help us get at the heart of what makes gluten-free things taste just as good as traditional baked goods.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/291877375/the-how-can-it-be-gluten-free-cookbook-revolutionary-techniques-groundbreaking-r\">\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-79344\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/how-can-it-be-gluten-free-book.jpg\" alt=\"The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook. Revolutionary Techniques. Groundbreaking Recipes. By America's Test Kitchen \" width=\"300\" height=\"374\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop and Collin Davison edited \u003cem>The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook\u003c/em>. They join \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em> to share tips, secrets and favorite recipes for gluten-free baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview Highlights\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On what gluten is and does\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop: There are two proteins in wheat — glutenin and gliadin — and they are basically wrapped around starch molecules, and they're basically inert. But when you add water or another liquid, you are bringing those proteins back to life, and they unwind from the starch molecules and attach to each other, and the more you knead or mix the dough or the batter, the more they will attach to each other and they form this elastic network that is called gluten\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The gluten is really what traps the bubbles, the carbon dioxide, that is either coming from yeast, from baking soda, from baking powder; and it's what gives bread, cookies, cake their structure. It helps turn them from doughs and batters into beautiful, risen baked goods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On common problems with gluten-free foods \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison: Gluten is kind of magical, and so when you take it out of the equation, you're left with flours that can't absorb liquid as well, they can't absorb fat as well and they can't trap those air bubbles that are really crucial for baked goods. So you wind up with things that are ... very dense and squat; they're often greasy and they crumble apart. They don't have the binding structure of gluten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the best store-bought gluten-free flour \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison: The one that we found worked best universally — and that means in cookies, in bread dough, in biscuits, in muffins — was King Arthur Flour gluten-free blend. And it is very much like, actually, our recipe for gluten-free flour blend (see recipe below) in that it uses two types of rice flours — white and brown — and it also uses two types of starches, which is potato and tapioca. And those four ingredients, we found, were really the magic key to finding a blend that worked almost as good as a wheat flour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the best gluten-free pasta \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison: We tested every brand of gluten-free pasta we could get our hands on. We tested it plain, we tested it with sauce, and one brand really rose to the top, again, in terms of its texture and flavor, and that brand is Jovial ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of the brands came out really mushy; they didn't have enough texture. Of course, you'll never get gluten-free pasta that's al dente, but the Jovial came as close to al dente as you can get. Also, it didn't have any \"off flavors\" which is a bonus in this world of gluten-free products. And ... it actually tasted more like traditional wheat pasta that any of the other brands we tried ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop: You could tell what the pasta was going to taste like by looking at the water in the pot. The real problem with any gluten-free pasta — whether it's made of corn, quinoa or brown rice, which is what the Jovial is made of — there isn't enough structure to contain the starches that are in the pasta ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Jovial has more protein and more fiber. And basically what that does is it prevents the starch molecules from bursting. During the cooking process, the starch is hydrating and swelling, which is a good thing, so that it goes from its dry state to something that you can actually eat. But in a lot of the other gluten-free pasta brands that we tested, the starches kept on swelling and eventually they exploded, and you could look in the pot and see the starches because the pasta water was now cloudy — it basically looked like milk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On foods that are impossible to make gluten-free\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison: I'll never say never because I always like a good challenge. ... Gluten-free phyllo dough — not something I think we can do — and a gluten-free puff pastry. That one — big question mark ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop: I think a croissant would be pretty hard to make gluten-free ... in large part because of the butter issue, which is the flour has so much trouble absorbing fat and you really don't want a low-fat croissant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the trick to making gluten-free sugar cookies\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison: You're dealing with the maximum amount of butter and sugar, and that's what gives a traditional sugar cookie its flavor. So [in the gluten-free version,] you can't use all that butter because it just leeches out and what you wind up with is fried cookies on the baking sheet, which are pretty disgusting. The other issue is that ... they'll just spread as much as they want, as much as they're allowed. ... When you're dealing with gluten-free batter or gluten-free cookie dough that doesn't have a lot of binders, it will just spread and spread ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The solution ... was when you take out the sugar and you take out the butter and you take out all that flavor, you need to replace it with a different kind of flavor and fat that will stay in the cookie and the fat won't leech out during baking — and that turned out to be almonds. When you think about almonds, it has a lot of natural fat in it, and those almonds will hold onto their fat and their flavor in the oven. ... So almonds, or almond flour, was the key to the sugar cookie, along with xanthan gum [as a binder].\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cupcakes\">\u003c/a>Dark Chocolate Cupcakes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Why This Recipe Works\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ultimate chocolate cupcakes are moist and tender with rich chocolate flavor. Taking a cue from the success of our moist and tender Chocolate Layer Cake, we scaled the recipe to fit in a standard 12-cup muffin tin and simply adjusted the baking time. The combination of rich chocolate flavor and light, fluffy crumb once again fooled tasters into thinking these cupcakes couldn't possibly be gluten-free. Once frosted, serve the cupcakes within a few hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79336\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_chocolate-cupcakessmall-33b4f1eaf45d3cd38ca0568e10e6cd9e07c320b7.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-79336\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_chocolate-cupcakessmall-33b4f1eaf45d3cd38ca0568e10e6cd9e07c320b7.jpg\" alt=\"Dark Chocolate Cupcakes. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1087\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dark Chocolate Cupcakes. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Makes 12 cupcakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped\u003cbr>\n1 ounce (1/3 cup) unsweetened cocoa powder\u003cbr>\n3 1/2 ounces (3/4 cup) ATK Gluten-Free Flour Blend (see recipe below)\u003cbr>\n3/4 teaspoon baking powder\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon baking soda\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon xanthan gum\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n2 large eggs\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n5 1/4 ounces (3/4 cup) sugar\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup whole milk\u003cbr>\n2 cups frosting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line 12-cup muffin tin with paper or foil liners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Microwave oil, chocolate, and cocoa together in bowl at 50 percent power, stirring occasionally, until melted, about 2 minutes. Whisk mixture until smooth, then set aside to cool slightly. In separate bowl, whisk flour blend, baking powder, baking soda, xanthan gum, and salt together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. In large bowl, whisk eggs and vanilla together. Whisk in sugar until well combined. Whisk in cooled chocolate mixture and milk until combined. Whisk in flour blend mixture until batter is thoroughly combined and smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Using ice cream scoop or large spoon, portion batter evenly into prepared muffin tin. Bake until toothpick inserted into center of cupcakes comes out clean, 16 to 18 minutes, rotating muffin tin halfway through baking. Let cupcakes cool in muffin tin on wire rack for 10 minutes. Remove cupcakes from tin and let cool completely, about 1 hour. (Unfrosted cupcakes can be stored in airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 day.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Spread or pipe frosting over top of cupcakes and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook.\u003cem> Excerpted by permission of America's Test Kitchen. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cookies\">\u003c/a>Chocolate Chip Cookies\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Why This Recipe Works\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We started our testing by swapping in our flour blend for the all-purpose flour in a standard Toll House cookie recipe. It was no surprise that these cookies had problems: They were flat, sandy, and greasy. We'd discovered during our baked goods testing that gluten-free flour blends simply can't absorb as much fat as all-purpose flour can, so cutting back on the butter helped to minimize greasiness. Less butter, along with some xanthan gum, also helped alleviate the spread issue, so the cookies didn't bake up so flat. As for the sandiness, we knew from our gluten-free muffin testing that fixing this problem required a two-step approach. The starches in our blend needed more liquid as well as more time to hydrate and soften, so we added a couple tablespoons of milk and let the dough rest for 30 minutes. This resting time also had a secondary benefit: It gave the sugar time to dissolve, which led to faster caramelization in the oven. And that meant a cookie not just with deeper flavor, but also with a chewier center and crisper edges. Finally, we wanted our cookies to be less cakey and more chewy. We realized creaming the butter, as the original Toll House recipe directs, was aerating the butter too much. Melting the butter instead, and changing the ratio of brown sugar to granulated sugar, gave our cookies the right chewy texture. The extra brown sugar also gave our cookies a more complex, toffee-like flavor. Bite for bite, this was a chocolate chip cookie that could rival the best versions of the classic. Not all brands of chocolate chips are processed in a gluten-free facility, so read labels carefully.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79338\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1108px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_chocolate_chip_cookiessmall_custom-cf7e8fd10997aa8ebc0850d811e334b486dbbb9d.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-79338\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_chocolate_chip_cookiessmall_custom-cf7e8fd10997aa8ebc0850d811e334b486dbbb9d.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate Chip Cookies. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\" width=\"1108\" height=\"1421\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate Chip Cookies. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Makes about 24 cookies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 ounces (13/4 cups) ATK Gluten-Free Flour Blend (see recipe below)\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon baking soda\u003cbr>\n3/4 teaspoon xanthan gum\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted\u003cbr>\n5 1/4 ounces (3/4 cup packed) light brown sugar\u003cbr>\n2 1/3 ounces (1/3 cup) granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n1 large egg\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons milk\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n7 1/2 ounces (11/4 cups) semisweet chocolate chips\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Whisk flour blend, baking soda, xanthan gum, and salt together in medium bowl; set aside. Whisk melted butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar together in large bowl until well combined and smooth. Whisk in egg, milk, and vanilla and continue to whisk until smooth. Stir in flour mixture with rubber spatula and mix until soft, homogeneous dough forms. Fold in chocolate chips. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let dough rest for 30 minutes. (Dough will be sticky and soft.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Using 2 soup spoons and working with about 11/2 tablespoons of dough at a time, portion dough and space 2 inches apart on prepared sheets. Bake cookies, 1 sheet at a time, until golden brown and edges have begun to set but centers are still soft, 11 to 13 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Let cookies cool on sheet for 5 minutes, then transfer to wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature. (Cookies are best eaten on day they are baked, but they can be cooled and placed immediately in airtight container and stored at room temperature for up to 1 day.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook.\u003cem> Excerpted by permission of America's Test Kitchen.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"flourblend\">\u003c/a>The America's Test Kitchen Gluten-Free Flour Blend\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Makes 42 ounces (About 9 1/3 cups)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Be sure to use potato starch, not potato flour. Tapioca starch is also sold as tapioca flour; they are interchangeable.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>24 ounces (4 1/2 cups plus 1/3 cup) white rice flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7 1/2 ounces (1 2/3 cups) brown rice flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7 ounces (1 1/3 cups) potato starch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 ounces (3/4 cup) tapioca starch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 ounce (3 tablespoons) nonfat milk powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whisk all ingredients together in a large bowl until well combined. Transfer to airtight container and refrigerate for up to 3 months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook.\u003cem> Excerpted by permission of America's Test Kitchen.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"\u003cem>America's Test Kitchen\u003c/em> knows how to make gluten-free food taste just as good as the regular stuff. They tell \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em> about the best packaged pasta, and the secrets of gluten-free baking.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1543952716,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":53,"wordCount":2225},"headData":{"title":"'Test Kitchen': Have Your (Gluten-Free) Cake, And Love Eating It Too | KQED","description":"America's Test Kitchen knows how to make gluten-free food taste just as good as the regular stuff. They tell Fresh Air about the best packaged pasta, and the secrets of gluten-free baking.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"79335 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=79335","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/03/20/test-kitchen-have-your-gluten-free-cake-and-love-eating-it-too/","disqusTitle":"'Test Kitchen': Have Your (Gluten-Free) Cake, And Love Eating It Too","nprStoryId":"291873792","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=291873792&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/2014/03/20/291873792/test-kitchen-have-your-gluten-free-cake-and-love-eating-it-too?ft=3&f=291873792","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 20 Mar 2014 17:35:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 20 Mar 2014 09:33:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 20 Mar 2014 17:35:00 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/03/20140320_fa_01.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=291873792","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1292009898-d3cfbf.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=291873792","audioTrackLength":2187,"path":"/bayareabites/79335/test-kitchen-have-your-gluten-free-cake-and-love-eating-it-too","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/03/20140320_fa_01.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=291873792","audioDuration":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79337\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1536px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_birthday-cupcakes_0131_slide-4353dd59fef0db7dedc17fafbdb999da13a7b790.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-79337\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_birthday-cupcakes_0131_slide-4353dd59fef0db7dedc17fafbdb999da13a7b790.jpg\" alt=\"According to America's Test Kitchen, the best gluten-free flours to bake with contain four ingredients — brown rice flour, white rice flour, potato starch and tapioca starch. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\" width=\"1536\" height=\"1023\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">According to America's Test Kitchen, the best gluten-free flours to bake with contain four ingredients — brown rice flour, white rice flour, potato starch and tapioca starch. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/03/20/291873792/test-kitchen-have-your-gluten-free-cake-and-love-eating-it-too\">Fresh Air\u003c/a> (3/20/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2014/03/20140320_fa_01.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took hundreds of batches of muffins, cakes and cookies before Jack Bishop and Julia Collin Davison — of the public TV series \u003cem>America's Test Kitchen\u003c/em> — figured out the best ways to make delicious baked goods without gluten. They also conducted taste tests of packaged gluten-free breads and pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Terry Gross that the show's normal testing procedures \"really worked to help us get at the heart of what makes gluten-free things taste just as good as traditional baked goods.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/291877375/the-how-can-it-be-gluten-free-cookbook-revolutionary-techniques-groundbreaking-r\">\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-79344\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/how-can-it-be-gluten-free-book.jpg\" alt=\"The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook. Revolutionary Techniques. Groundbreaking Recipes. By America's Test Kitchen \" width=\"300\" height=\"374\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop and Collin Davison edited \u003cem>The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook\u003c/em>. They join \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em> to share tips, secrets and favorite recipes for gluten-free baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview Highlights\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On what gluten is and does\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop: There are two proteins in wheat — glutenin and gliadin — and they are basically wrapped around starch molecules, and they're basically inert. But when you add water or another liquid, you are bringing those proteins back to life, and they unwind from the starch molecules and attach to each other, and the more you knead or mix the dough or the batter, the more they will attach to each other and they form this elastic network that is called gluten\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The gluten is really what traps the bubbles, the carbon dioxide, that is either coming from yeast, from baking soda, from baking powder; and it's what gives bread, cookies, cake their structure. It helps turn them from doughs and batters into beautiful, risen baked goods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On common problems with gluten-free foods \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison: Gluten is kind of magical, and so when you take it out of the equation, you're left with flours that can't absorb liquid as well, they can't absorb fat as well and they can't trap those air bubbles that are really crucial for baked goods. So you wind up with things that are ... very dense and squat; they're often greasy and they crumble apart. They don't have the binding structure of gluten.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the best store-bought gluten-free flour \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison: The one that we found worked best universally — and that means in cookies, in bread dough, in biscuits, in muffins — was King Arthur Flour gluten-free blend. And it is very much like, actually, our recipe for gluten-free flour blend (see recipe below) in that it uses two types of rice flours — white and brown — and it also uses two types of starches, which is potato and tapioca. And those four ingredients, we found, were really the magic key to finding a blend that worked almost as good as a wheat flour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the best gluten-free pasta \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison: We tested every brand of gluten-free pasta we could get our hands on. We tested it plain, we tested it with sauce, and one brand really rose to the top, again, in terms of its texture and flavor, and that brand is Jovial ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of the brands came out really mushy; they didn't have enough texture. Of course, you'll never get gluten-free pasta that's al dente, but the Jovial came as close to al dente as you can get. Also, it didn't have any \"off flavors\" which is a bonus in this world of gluten-free products. And ... it actually tasted more like traditional wheat pasta that any of the other brands we tried ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop: You could tell what the pasta was going to taste like by looking at the water in the pot. The real problem with any gluten-free pasta — whether it's made of corn, quinoa or brown rice, which is what the Jovial is made of — there isn't enough structure to contain the starches that are in the pasta ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Jovial has more protein and more fiber. And basically what that does is it prevents the starch molecules from bursting. During the cooking process, the starch is hydrating and swelling, which is a good thing, so that it goes from its dry state to something that you can actually eat. But in a lot of the other gluten-free pasta brands that we tested, the starches kept on swelling and eventually they exploded, and you could look in the pot and see the starches because the pasta water was now cloudy — it basically looked like milk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On foods that are impossible to make gluten-free\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison: I'll never say never because I always like a good challenge. ... Gluten-free phyllo dough — not something I think we can do — and a gluten-free puff pastry. That one — big question mark ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop: I think a croissant would be pretty hard to make gluten-free ... in large part because of the butter issue, which is the flour has so much trouble absorbing fat and you really don't want a low-fat croissant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the trick to making gluten-free sugar cookies\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Collin Davison: You're dealing with the maximum amount of butter and sugar, and that's what gives a traditional sugar cookie its flavor. So [in the gluten-free version,] you can't use all that butter because it just leeches out and what you wind up with is fried cookies on the baking sheet, which are pretty disgusting. The other issue is that ... they'll just spread as much as they want, as much as they're allowed. ... When you're dealing with gluten-free batter or gluten-free cookie dough that doesn't have a lot of binders, it will just spread and spread ...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The solution ... was when you take out the sugar and you take out the butter and you take out all that flavor, you need to replace it with a different kind of flavor and fat that will stay in the cookie and the fat won't leech out during baking — and that turned out to be almonds. When you think about almonds, it has a lot of natural fat in it, and those almonds will hold onto their fat and their flavor in the oven. ... So almonds, or almond flour, was the key to the sugar cookie, along with xanthan gum [as a binder].\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cupcakes\">\u003c/a>Dark Chocolate Cupcakes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Why This Recipe Works\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ultimate chocolate cupcakes are moist and tender with rich chocolate flavor. Taking a cue from the success of our moist and tender Chocolate Layer Cake, we scaled the recipe to fit in a standard 12-cup muffin tin and simply adjusted the baking time. The combination of rich chocolate flavor and light, fluffy crumb once again fooled tasters into thinking these cupcakes couldn't possibly be gluten-free. Once frosted, serve the cupcakes within a few hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79336\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_chocolate-cupcakessmall-33b4f1eaf45d3cd38ca0568e10e6cd9e07c320b7.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-79336\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_chocolate-cupcakessmall-33b4f1eaf45d3cd38ca0568e10e6cd9e07c320b7.jpg\" alt=\"Dark Chocolate Cupcakes. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1087\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dark Chocolate Cupcakes. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Makes 12 cupcakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup vegetable oil\u003cbr>\n3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped\u003cbr>\n1 ounce (1/3 cup) unsweetened cocoa powder\u003cbr>\n3 1/2 ounces (3/4 cup) ATK Gluten-Free Flour Blend (see recipe below)\u003cbr>\n3/4 teaspoon baking powder\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon baking soda\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon xanthan gum\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n2 large eggs\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n5 1/4 ounces (3/4 cup) sugar\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup whole milk\u003cbr>\n2 cups frosting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line 12-cup muffin tin with paper or foil liners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Microwave oil, chocolate, and cocoa together in bowl at 50 percent power, stirring occasionally, until melted, about 2 minutes. Whisk mixture until smooth, then set aside to cool slightly. In separate bowl, whisk flour blend, baking powder, baking soda, xanthan gum, and salt together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. In large bowl, whisk eggs and vanilla together. Whisk in sugar until well combined. Whisk in cooled chocolate mixture and milk until combined. Whisk in flour blend mixture until batter is thoroughly combined and smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Using ice cream scoop or large spoon, portion batter evenly into prepared muffin tin. Bake until toothpick inserted into center of cupcakes comes out clean, 16 to 18 minutes, rotating muffin tin halfway through baking. Let cupcakes cool in muffin tin on wire rack for 10 minutes. Remove cupcakes from tin and let cool completely, about 1 hour. (Unfrosted cupcakes can be stored in airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 day.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Spread or pipe frosting over top of cupcakes and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook.\u003cem> Excerpted by permission of America's Test Kitchen. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cookies\">\u003c/a>Chocolate Chip Cookies\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Why This Recipe Works\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We started our testing by swapping in our flour blend for the all-purpose flour in a standard Toll House cookie recipe. It was no surprise that these cookies had problems: They were flat, sandy, and greasy. We'd discovered during our baked goods testing that gluten-free flour blends simply can't absorb as much fat as all-purpose flour can, so cutting back on the butter helped to minimize greasiness. Less butter, along with some xanthan gum, also helped alleviate the spread issue, so the cookies didn't bake up so flat. As for the sandiness, we knew from our gluten-free muffin testing that fixing this problem required a two-step approach. The starches in our blend needed more liquid as well as more time to hydrate and soften, so we added a couple tablespoons of milk and let the dough rest for 30 minutes. This resting time also had a secondary benefit: It gave the sugar time to dissolve, which led to faster caramelization in the oven. And that meant a cookie not just with deeper flavor, but also with a chewier center and crisper edges. Finally, we wanted our cookies to be less cakey and more chewy. We realized creaming the butter, as the original Toll House recipe directs, was aerating the butter too much. Melting the butter instead, and changing the ratio of brown sugar to granulated sugar, gave our cookies the right chewy texture. The extra brown sugar also gave our cookies a more complex, toffee-like flavor. Bite for bite, this was a chocolate chip cookie that could rival the best versions of the classic. Not all brands of chocolate chips are processed in a gluten-free facility, so read labels carefully.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79338\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1108px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_chocolate_chip_cookiessmall_custom-cf7e8fd10997aa8ebc0850d811e334b486dbbb9d.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-79338\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/sfs_chocolate_chip_cookiessmall_custom-cf7e8fd10997aa8ebc0850d811e334b486dbbb9d.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate Chip Cookies. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\" width=\"1108\" height=\"1421\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate Chip Cookies. Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Makes about 24 cookies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 ounces (13/4 cups) ATK Gluten-Free Flour Blend (see recipe below)\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon baking soda\u003cbr>\n3/4 teaspoon xanthan gum\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon salt\u003cbr>\n8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted\u003cbr>\n5 1/4 ounces (3/4 cup packed) light brown sugar\u003cbr>\n2 1/3 ounces (1/3 cup) granulated sugar\u003cbr>\n1 large egg\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons milk\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n7 1/2 ounces (11/4 cups) semisweet chocolate chips\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Whisk flour blend, baking soda, xanthan gum, and salt together in medium bowl; set aside. Whisk melted butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar together in large bowl until well combined and smooth. Whisk in egg, milk, and vanilla and continue to whisk until smooth. Stir in flour mixture with rubber spatula and mix until soft, homogeneous dough forms. Fold in chocolate chips. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let dough rest for 30 minutes. (Dough will be sticky and soft.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Using 2 soup spoons and working with about 11/2 tablespoons of dough at a time, portion dough and space 2 inches apart on prepared sheets. Bake cookies, 1 sheet at a time, until golden brown and edges have begun to set but centers are still soft, 11 to 13 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Let cookies cool on sheet for 5 minutes, then transfer to wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature. (Cookies are best eaten on day they are baked, but they can be cooled and placed immediately in airtight container and stored at room temperature for up to 1 day.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook.\u003cem> Excerpted by permission of America's Test Kitchen.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"flourblend\">\u003c/a>The America's Test Kitchen Gluten-Free Flour Blend\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Makes 42 ounces (About 9 1/3 cups)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Be sure to use potato starch, not potato flour. Tapioca starch is also sold as tapioca flour; they are interchangeable.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>24 ounces (4 1/2 cups plus 1/3 cup) white rice flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7 1/2 ounces (1 2/3 cups) brown rice flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7 ounces (1 1/3 cups) potato starch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 ounces (3/4 cup) tapioca starch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 ounce (3 tablespoons) nonfat milk powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whisk all ingredients together in a large bowl until well combined. Transfer to airtight container and refrigerate for up to 3 months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook.\u003cem> Excerpted by permission of America's Test Kitchen.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/79335/test-kitchen-have-your-gluten-free-cake-and-love-eating-it-too","authors":["5403"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_12147","bayareabites_11278","bayareabites_138","bayareabites_11034"],"featImg":"bayareabites_79342","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_74494":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_74494","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"74494","score":null,"sort":[1385503149000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"dont-stuff-the-turkey-and-other-tips-from-americas-test-kitchen","title":"Don't Stuff The Turkey And Other Tips From 'America's Test Kitchen'","publishDate":1385503149,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74501\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/turkeytips.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/turkeytips.jpg\" alt=\"Jack Bishop recommends letting your turkey sit for at least 30 minutes before you start carving. Photo: Ruocaled/Flickr\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74501\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jack Bishop recommends letting your turkey sit for at least 30 minutes before you start carving. Photo: Ruocaled/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/11/26/247336038/dont-stuff-the-turkey-and-other-tips-from-americas-test-kitchen\">Fresh Air\u003c/a> (11/26/13) [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2013/11/20131126_fa_01.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If there's one Thanksgiving mistake Jack Bishop sees more than any other, it's people rushing to carve their birds. Bishop is editorial director of the public TV series \u003cem>America's Test Kitchen\u003c/em>. He tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Terry Gross, \"Turkey needs to rest before you carve it ... and a lot fewer juices will end up on the carving board.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop and Brigid Lancaster, also of \u003cem>America's Test Kitchen\u003c/em>, share their tips for buying, seasoning and cooking a turkey, and describe some of their favorite side dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview Highlights\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On buying, seasoning and carving your turkey\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lancaster: Don't buy too big of a bird — 12 to 14 pounds is kind of the limit. Any larger than that and you're going to have a really big problem cooking it evenly because ... the breast meat tends to cook a lot faster than the dark meat. And it's also a problem of mechanics: It's really hard to get a 20 pound turkey into some of the more modern ovens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>... After that, it's really making sure you season the turkey. We like natural turkeys, ones that aren't pre-brined or injected, so you either want to brine it — soak the turkey in salt water solution — or you can rub salt under the skin. And that really, along with time, helps to season the turkey well. You do want to let either the brine or the salt rub do its job. Salting takes a bit more time. ... Twenty-four hours is a good period of time to wait. ... It slowly seasons it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Breast meat is great when it's salted because it tends to hang on [to] its moisture a bit more, so it gives you a window or an error cushion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop: There's a rush to carve. Turkey needs to rest before you carve it. If you're using a small bird like Bridget suggests ... it's maybe 30 minutes. If you've got a larger bird, maybe 40 minutes. And there [are] two things that you're doing: One is it's much simpler to carve a bird that's not scorching hot; the second thing is you're letting the muscle fibers relax so that they can hold onto more of those juices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On getting crispy skin on your turkey \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lancaster: One way is we rub the skin with a mixture of salt and pepper and a little bit of baking powder. And the baking powder seems very odd but it actually is starting to dry out the surface just a little bit, ... that and loosening the skin and getting some of the seasoning under the skin. You can finish it off at a pretty high temperature just to give it a nice final blast of heat that will give it really nice crisp skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On not stuffing your turkey\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop: Instead, put the stuffing in a dish — but then it becomes \"dressing,\" if you want to be technical about it. The problem is, when you stuff the turkey, yes, the stuffing gets all of the wonderful flavors from the bird, but it makes it much more difficult to cook the bird. It cooks a lot more slowly and unevenly, and obviously if you've got vegetarians then they're not going to eat the stuffing. So I always do it in buttered baked dishes and cover it with foil for most of the cooking ... usually about 30 to 40 minutes until it's warm and then take off the foil so the top can crisp up and it's absolutely delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>... If you want to stuff your bird, you should actually microwave the stuffing and then you put hot stuffing inside the turkey. It's a bit of chore, frankly, but that's the best way, if you actually are going to cook a stuffed bird, is to begin with fairly hot stuffing. You want to get it to about 120 to 130 degrees, so you don't have quite that problem with ice cold stuffing slowing down the whole process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On sweet potatoes\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lancaster: You can't cook them like regular potatoes. They contain a lot more water ... so if you boil them in lots of liquid you end up with sweet potatoes that have fallen apart, sweet potatoes that are very soggy. They don't have that fluffy texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So we actually braise sweet potatoes. You slice sweet potatoes very thin, about a quarter inch, and you put them in a sauce pan or you can double the recipe and put them in a Dutch oven. And just a few tablespoons of heavy cream, a couple pats of butter and you cook it over low for a good 35 minutes or so until the potatoes are very, very tender. ... You simply mash them [and] season them with a little salt and pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On mashed potatoes\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop: A recipe I really like to make has some bold Spanish flavors in it. So it's the traditional mashed potatoes and, in the test kitchen, we think you should boil whole russet potatoes still with the skins on. And the reason that you're doing that is you don't want them to soak up more water than is necessary because you want them later on to soak up a lot of delicious half-and-half. ... Cook 30 to 40 minutes, ... drain them, let them cool a little bit and then you need to peel them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>... Rather than just adding plain old butter and half-and-half, I like to add some smoked paprika and some toasted garlic that I've already cooked in the butter first. And stir those into the potatoes, then add a little more warm half-and-half. A lot of people add cold cream at the end and then you end up with cold mashed potatoes. Warm that half-and-half, a little salt and pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A great trick if you're the kind of person that doesn't want to be doing this right before dinner, is to then put it in the slow cooker on low and you can let the mashed potatoes hang out for an hour or two in the slow cooker while you get everything else ready for dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"mashed\">\u003c/a>\u003cstrong>Classic Mashed Potatoes\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>(Serves 4)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Russet potatoes make fluffier mashed potatoes, but Yukon Golds have an appealing buttery flavor and can be used.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pounds russet potatoes, unpeeled\u003cbr> 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted\u003cbr> 1 cup warm half-and-half\u003cbr> 1 1/2 teaspoons salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Place potatoes in large saucepan and cover with 1 inch cold water. Bring to boil over high heat, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until potatoes are just tender (paring knife can be slipped in and out of potatoes with little resistance), 20 to 30 minutes. Drain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Set ricer or food mill over now-empty saucepan. Using potholder or folded dish towel (to hold potatoes) and paring knife, peel skins from potatoes. Working in batches, cut peeled potatoes into large chunks and press or mill into saucepan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Stir in butter until incorporated. Gently whisk in half-and-half, add salt, and season with pepper to taste. Serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mashed Potatoes with Smoked Paprika and Toasted Garlic\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The extra steps in this variation are worth the trouble.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While potatoes are simmering, toast 1 teaspoon smoked paprika in 8-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to small bowl; set aside. Melt 8 tablespoons butter in small saucepan over medium-low heat. Add 3 minced garlic cloves, reduce heat to low, and cook, stirring frequently, until garlic begins to brown, 12 to 14 minutes. Remove saucepan from heat immediately and set aside for 5 minutes (garlic will continue to brown). Pour butter-garlic mixture through fine-mesh strainer; reserve butter and set toasted garlic aside. Rice or mill potatoes as directed, then stir butter into potatoes until just incorporated. Season potatoes with toasted paprika, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Add warm half-and-half and stir until just combined. Serve immediately, sprinkling with reserved toasted garlic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"pecanbars\">\u003c/a>\u003cstrong>Pecan Bars\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74499\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/pecanbars.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/pecanbars.jpg\" alt=\"Pecan Bars. Photo: Daniel J. van Ackere/America's Test Kitchen\" width=\"1120\" height=\"841\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74499\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pecan Bars. Photo: Daniel J. van Ackere/America's Test Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>(Makes 16 bars)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why this recipe works: Pecan bars often suffer the same problems as their pie counterpart. To avoid an overly sweet filling, we added a hefty amount of vanilla as well as a hit of bourbon (rum works, too) and plenty of salt. For a shortbread-like crust, the food processor not only made the mixing easy but also ensured we didn't overheat the butter. Adding nuts to the crust gave it appealing texture that was a good contrast to the filling. Partially baking the crust before adding the filling (as well as the requisite pecans) and returning the pan to the oven gave us a crust with the best texture and a deeper flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can substitute dark rum for the bourbon if desired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Crust:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup (5 ounces) all-purpose flour\u003cbr> 1/3 cup packed (2 1/3 ounces) light brown sugar\u003cbr> 1/4 cup pecans, toasted and chopped coarse\u003cbr> 1 teaspoon salt\u003cbr> 1/4 teaspoon baking powder\u003cbr> 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1/2‑inch pieces and chilled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Filling:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup packed (31/2 ounces) light brown sugar\u003cbr> 1/3 cup light corn syrup\u003cbr> 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled\u003cbr> 1 tablespoon bourbon\u003cbr> 2 teaspoons vanilla extract\u003cbr> 1/2 teaspoon salt\u003cbr> 1 large egg\u003cbr> 1 3/4 cups pecans, chopped coarse\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. For the crust: Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Make foil sling by folding two long sheets of aluminum foil so that they are as wide as 8‑inch square baking pan. Lay sheets of foil in pan perpendicular to one another, with extra foil hanging over edges of pan. Push foil into corners and up sides of pan, smoothing foil flush to pan. Grease foil and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Process flour, sugar, pecans, salt, and baking powder together in food processor until combined, about five pulses. Sprinkle butter over top and pulse until mixture is pale yellow and resembles coarse cornmeal, about eight pulses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Sprinkle mixture into prepared pan and press into even layer with bottom of measuring cup. Bake crust until fragrant and beginning to brown, 20 to 24 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. For the filling: Meanwhile, whisk sugar, corn syrup, melted butter, bourbon, vanilla, and salt together in large bowl until sugar dissolves. Whisk in egg until combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Spread filling evenly over crust and sprinkle with pecans. Bake bars until top is brown and cracks start to form across surface, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating pan halfway through baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Set pan on wire rack and let bars cool completely, about two hours. Remove bars from pan using foil, cut into squares, and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem> Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Jack Bishop and Brigid Lancaster of the public TV series share tips for buying, seasoning and cooking a turkey (hint: bigger isn't necessarily better, keep lots of salt around and give the bird a break before carving.) They also give advice on how to make some of their favorite side dishes.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1385503149,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":48,"wordCount":1885},"headData":{"title":"Don't Stuff The Turkey And Other Tips From 'America's Test Kitchen' | KQED","description":"Jack Bishop and Brigid Lancaster of the public TV series share tips for buying, seasoning and cooking a turkey (hint: bigger isn't necessarily better, keep lots of salt around and give the bird a break before carving.) They also give advice on how to make some of their favorite side dishes.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"74494 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=74494","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/11/26/dont-stuff-the-turkey-and-other-tips-from-americas-test-kitchen/","disqusTitle":"Don't Stuff The Turkey And Other Tips From 'America's Test Kitchen'","nprStoryId":"247336038","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=247336038&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/2013/11/26/247336038/dont-stuff-the-turkey-and-other-tips-from-americas-test-kitchen?ft=3&f=247336038","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 26 Nov 2013 16:15:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 26 Nov 2013 11:00:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 26 Nov 2013 16:15:12 -0500","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2013/11/20131126_fa_01.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=247336038","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1247359887-762bf1.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=247336038","path":"/bayareabites/74494/dont-stuff-the-turkey-and-other-tips-from-americas-test-kitchen","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2013/11/20131126_fa_01.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=247336038","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74501\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/turkeytips.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/turkeytips.jpg\" alt=\"Jack Bishop recommends letting your turkey sit for at least 30 minutes before you start carving. Photo: Ruocaled/Flickr\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74501\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jack Bishop recommends letting your turkey sit for at least 30 minutes before you start carving. Photo: Ruocaled/Flickr\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/11/26/247336038/dont-stuff-the-turkey-and-other-tips-from-americas-test-kitchen\">Fresh Air\u003c/a> (11/26/13) \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/fa/2013/11/20131126_fa_01.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If there's one Thanksgiving mistake Jack Bishop sees more than any other, it's people rushing to carve their birds. Bishop is editorial director of the public TV series \u003cem>America's Test Kitchen\u003c/em>. He tells \u003cem>Fresh Air\u003c/em>'s Terry Gross, \"Turkey needs to rest before you carve it ... and a lot fewer juices will end up on the carving board.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop and Brigid Lancaster, also of \u003cem>America's Test Kitchen\u003c/em>, share their tips for buying, seasoning and cooking a turkey, and describe some of their favorite side dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview Highlights\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On buying, seasoning and carving your turkey\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lancaster: Don't buy too big of a bird — 12 to 14 pounds is kind of the limit. Any larger than that and you're going to have a really big problem cooking it evenly because ... the breast meat tends to cook a lot faster than the dark meat. And it's also a problem of mechanics: It's really hard to get a 20 pound turkey into some of the more modern ovens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>... After that, it's really making sure you season the turkey. We like natural turkeys, ones that aren't pre-brined or injected, so you either want to brine it — soak the turkey in salt water solution — or you can rub salt under the skin. And that really, along with time, helps to season the turkey well. You do want to let either the brine or the salt rub do its job. Salting takes a bit more time. ... Twenty-four hours is a good period of time to wait. ... It slowly seasons it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Breast meat is great when it's salted because it tends to hang on [to] its moisture a bit more, so it gives you a window or an error cushion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop: There's a rush to carve. Turkey needs to rest before you carve it. If you're using a small bird like Bridget suggests ... it's maybe 30 minutes. If you've got a larger bird, maybe 40 minutes. And there [are] two things that you're doing: One is it's much simpler to carve a bird that's not scorching hot; the second thing is you're letting the muscle fibers relax so that they can hold onto more of those juices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On getting crispy skin on your turkey \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lancaster: One way is we rub the skin with a mixture of salt and pepper and a little bit of baking powder. And the baking powder seems very odd but it actually is starting to dry out the surface just a little bit, ... that and loosening the skin and getting some of the seasoning under the skin. You can finish it off at a pretty high temperature just to give it a nice final blast of heat that will give it really nice crisp skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On not stuffing your turkey\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop: Instead, put the stuffing in a dish — but then it becomes \"dressing,\" if you want to be technical about it. The problem is, when you stuff the turkey, yes, the stuffing gets all of the wonderful flavors from the bird, but it makes it much more difficult to cook the bird. It cooks a lot more slowly and unevenly, and obviously if you've got vegetarians then they're not going to eat the stuffing. So I always do it in buttered baked dishes and cover it with foil for most of the cooking ... usually about 30 to 40 minutes until it's warm and then take off the foil so the top can crisp up and it's absolutely delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>... If you want to stuff your bird, you should actually microwave the stuffing and then you put hot stuffing inside the turkey. It's a bit of chore, frankly, but that's the best way, if you actually are going to cook a stuffed bird, is to begin with fairly hot stuffing. You want to get it to about 120 to 130 degrees, so you don't have quite that problem with ice cold stuffing slowing down the whole process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On sweet potatoes\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lancaster: You can't cook them like regular potatoes. They contain a lot more water ... so if you boil them in lots of liquid you end up with sweet potatoes that have fallen apart, sweet potatoes that are very soggy. They don't have that fluffy texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So we actually braise sweet potatoes. You slice sweet potatoes very thin, about a quarter inch, and you put them in a sauce pan or you can double the recipe and put them in a Dutch oven. And just a few tablespoons of heavy cream, a couple pats of butter and you cook it over low for a good 35 minutes or so until the potatoes are very, very tender. ... You simply mash them [and] season them with a little salt and pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On mashed potatoes\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bishop: A recipe I really like to make has some bold Spanish flavors in it. So it's the traditional mashed potatoes and, in the test kitchen, we think you should boil whole russet potatoes still with the skins on. And the reason that you're doing that is you don't want them to soak up more water than is necessary because you want them later on to soak up a lot of delicious half-and-half. ... Cook 30 to 40 minutes, ... drain them, let them cool a little bit and then you need to peel them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>... Rather than just adding plain old butter and half-and-half, I like to add some smoked paprika and some toasted garlic that I've already cooked in the butter first. And stir those into the potatoes, then add a little more warm half-and-half. A lot of people add cold cream at the end and then you end up with cold mashed potatoes. Warm that half-and-half, a little salt and pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A great trick if you're the kind of person that doesn't want to be doing this right before dinner, is to then put it in the slow cooker on low and you can let the mashed potatoes hang out for an hour or two in the slow cooker while you get everything else ready for dinner.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"mashed\">\u003c/a>\u003cstrong>Classic Mashed Potatoes\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>(Serves 4)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Russet potatoes make fluffier mashed potatoes, but Yukon Golds have an appealing buttery flavor and can be used.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pounds russet potatoes, unpeeled\u003cbr> 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted\u003cbr> 1 cup warm half-and-half\u003cbr> 1 1/2 teaspoons salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Place potatoes in large saucepan and cover with 1 inch cold water. Bring to boil over high heat, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until potatoes are just tender (paring knife can be slipped in and out of potatoes with little resistance), 20 to 30 minutes. Drain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Set ricer or food mill over now-empty saucepan. Using potholder or folded dish towel (to hold potatoes) and paring knife, peel skins from potatoes. Working in batches, cut peeled potatoes into large chunks and press or mill into saucepan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Stir in butter until incorporated. Gently whisk in half-and-half, add salt, and season with pepper to taste. Serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mashed Potatoes with Smoked Paprika and Toasted Garlic\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The extra steps in this variation are worth the trouble.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While potatoes are simmering, toast 1 teaspoon smoked paprika in 8-inch skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to small bowl; set aside. Melt 8 tablespoons butter in small saucepan over medium-low heat. Add 3 minced garlic cloves, reduce heat to low, and cook, stirring frequently, until garlic begins to brown, 12 to 14 minutes. Remove saucepan from heat immediately and set aside for 5 minutes (garlic will continue to brown). Pour butter-garlic mixture through fine-mesh strainer; reserve butter and set toasted garlic aside. Rice or mill potatoes as directed, then stir butter into potatoes until just incorporated. Season potatoes with toasted paprika, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Add warm half-and-half and stir until just combined. Serve immediately, sprinkling with reserved toasted garlic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"pecanbars\">\u003c/a>\u003cstrong>Pecan Bars\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74499\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/pecanbars.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/pecanbars.jpg\" alt=\"Pecan Bars. Photo: Daniel J. van Ackere/America's Test Kitchen\" width=\"1120\" height=\"841\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74499\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pecan Bars. Photo: Daniel J. van Ackere/America's Test Kitchen\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>(Makes 16 bars)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why this recipe works: Pecan bars often suffer the same problems as their pie counterpart. To avoid an overly sweet filling, we added a hefty amount of vanilla as well as a hit of bourbon (rum works, too) and plenty of salt. For a shortbread-like crust, the food processor not only made the mixing easy but also ensured we didn't overheat the butter. Adding nuts to the crust gave it appealing texture that was a good contrast to the filling. Partially baking the crust before adding the filling (as well as the requisite pecans) and returning the pan to the oven gave us a crust with the best texture and a deeper flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can substitute dark rum for the bourbon if desired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Crust:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup (5 ounces) all-purpose flour\u003cbr> 1/3 cup packed (2 1/3 ounces) light brown sugar\u003cbr> 1/4 cup pecans, toasted and chopped coarse\u003cbr> 1 teaspoon salt\u003cbr> 1/4 teaspoon baking powder\u003cbr> 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1/2‑inch pieces and chilled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Filling:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup packed (31/2 ounces) light brown sugar\u003cbr> 1/3 cup light corn syrup\u003cbr> 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled\u003cbr> 1 tablespoon bourbon\u003cbr> 2 teaspoons vanilla extract\u003cbr> 1/2 teaspoon salt\u003cbr> 1 large egg\u003cbr> 1 3/4 cups pecans, chopped coarse\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. For the crust: Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Make foil sling by folding two long sheets of aluminum foil so that they are as wide as 8‑inch square baking pan. Lay sheets of foil in pan perpendicular to one another, with extra foil hanging over edges of pan. Push foil into corners and up sides of pan, smoothing foil flush to pan. Grease foil and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Process flour, sugar, pecans, salt, and baking powder together in food processor until combined, about five pulses. Sprinkle butter over top and pulse until mixture is pale yellow and resembles coarse cornmeal, about eight pulses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Sprinkle mixture into prepared pan and press into even layer with bottom of measuring cup. Bake crust until fragrant and beginning to brown, 20 to 24 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. For the filling: Meanwhile, whisk sugar, corn syrup, melted butter, bourbon, vanilla, and salt together in large bowl until sugar dissolves. Whisk in egg until combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Spread filling evenly over crust and sprinkle with pecans. Bake bars until top is brown and cracks start to form across surface, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating pan halfway through baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6. Set pan on wire rack and let bars cool completely, about two hours. Remove bars from pan using foil, cut into squares, and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Courtesy of America's Test Kitchen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem> Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/74494/dont-stuff-the-turkey-and-other-tips-from-americas-test-kitchen","authors":["5403"],"categories":["bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_12147","bayareabites_12734","bayareabites_11278","bayareabites_12733","bayareabites_12148","bayareabites_530","bayareabites_543"],"featImg":"bayareabites_74500","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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