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At the same time, Uzzell is now such a fixture in the \u003cem>brigade de cuisine\u003c/em> — the French term for the hierarchy of kitchen staff — that they sometimes forget that he's deaf at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, sous chef Chris McFayden has a tendency to just talk extra loudly to Uzzell, which the kitchen staff finds amusing — as Wiedmaier quips, \"It doesn't matter how loud you are, he still can't hear you.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Uzzell's part, whether or not he can hear McFayden yelling is less about the noise and more about the lesson. \"You have to develop a thick skin,\" he says of working in a restaurant kitchen. \"You can't take criticism personally. It's not about whether or not I'm deaf.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In a kitchen,\" says McFayden, \"everybody tends to learn when the chef yells at somebody else for a mistake. With David, I have to remember that he's not going to hear me telling someone that they did something wrong; I'm going to have to make a point to make sure he knows.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After graduating in 2012 from Gallaudet University, a private university for the deaf and hard of hearing in Washington, D.C., Uzzell had a degree in history but no actual work history to help him to find a job. It's a common problem in the deaf community. According to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.nationaldeafcenter.org/deaf-people-and-employment-united-states-2016\">2016 study\u003c/a> by the National Deaf Center, just 48 percent of deaf Americans, aged 21 to 64, is employed, either full or part time, as compared to 72 percent of the hearing population.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A friend recommended that Uzzell look for work at Union Market, a popular upscale food court near Gallaudet, whose vendors catered to the nearby deaf community. Starting off as a dishwasher and working his way up through the ranks in a few professional kitchens, Uzzell arrived at Marcel's in 2014 looking for new opportunities. The fact that he was hard of hearing was not a hindrance as far as Wiedmaier was concerned, since he'd already previously employed a deaf chef at another restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bottom line, says Wiedmaier, \"I couldn't have hired David if he had no taste or sense of smell. Being deaf hasn't stopped him from being a damn good chef.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A combination of lip reading, writing, and hand signals has become de rigueur in the kitchen at Marcel's — but it's not always foolproof.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When I first started,\" recalls Uzzell, \"there were a few times when I thought Chef was asking for 'sea salt' when he was asking for 'Dijon.' The words lip-read very similarly.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McFayden's predecessor employed a laser pointer, aiming it on the counter at Uzzell's work station to alert him about new orders. In order to help communication run smoothly within the brigade, learning — and even inventing — a certain amount of sign language has become necessary to help convey the subtleties of cooking techniques.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Sometimes there's just not a sign that explains something very specific,\" says McFayden. \"When David worked at the roast station, that was trickier because there are different temperatures for the meats, like squab, elk, or bison, and timing becomes very important. So we created our own sign language, just for our kitchen.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Deaf people do have the deck stacked against them — we have to deal with a lot of factors,\" says Uzzell. \"I've been fortunate to be in a supportive and inclusive environment.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While being deaf in a hearing world is a challenge, Uzzell thinks that not being distracted by the noise around him in the kitchen can be a plus, allowing him to concentrate on the minute details that are crucial to presenting a perfectly prepared dish. Says Wiedmaier, \"He has a laser focus on his tasks.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in the kitchen at Marcel's, the staff loves to joke about the time a new cook was working on the line and couldn't get an order right, no matter how many times McFayden called it out, leading the sous chef to finally yell in exasperation, \"We've got a deaf guy that hears better than you!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While a few restaurants have been highlighted in recent years for hiring deaf employees, notably \u003ca href=\"https://www.fastcompany.com/3043126/inside-san-franciscos-deaf-owned-and-operated-pizzeria\">Mozzaria\u003c/a> in San Francisco — which is also deaf-owned — and \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtoncitypaper.com/food/article/20864298/fare-well-accommodates-way-more-than-vegan-diners\">Fare Well\u003c/a> in Washington, D.C., it still remains a tough job for the deaf to land. For Wiedmaier's part, having Uzzell on staff offers a model that he thinks other employers should take note of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's important that we do this as a society,\" he says, about providing work for people with disabilities. \"In my 45 years in the business, I've only had two deaf chefs, but that's two more than most other restaurants have ever had. It's a bit challenging, but it's also worth the challenge. David has become so integrated in our kitchen that we honestly forget that he's deaf; we've all adapted to each other to function as a team.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Uzzell agrees, suggesting that employers be willing to think outside the box when it comes to communication, in order to help the deaf integrate into the workplace. \"Don't be afraid to hire us,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, Uzzell is focused on helping Marcel's gain a coveted Michelin star, but he still has some advice for those in the deaf community looking to land a job in a restaurant kitchen: \"Bust ass, work hard, and keep your knives sharp.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://kristenhartke.com\">Kristen Hartke\u003c/a>\u003cem> is a food writer based in Washington, D.C.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"David Uzzell is deaf and works as a chef at a Washington, D.C., restaurant. Being deaf makes communication in the kitchen challenging. But Uzzell's colleagues have come up with some workarounds.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1504214547,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":27,"wordCount":1168},"headData":{"title":"Laser Pointers And Hand Signals: A Deaf Chef In The Kitchen | KQED","description":"David Uzzell is deaf and works as a chef at a Washington, D.C., restaurant. Being deaf makes communication in the kitchen challenging. But Uzzell's colleagues have come up with some workarounds.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Laser Pointers And Hand Signals: A Deaf Chef In The Kitchen","datePublished":"2017-08-31T21:22:27.000Z","dateModified":"2017-08-31T21:22:27.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"120318 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=120318","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/08/31/laser-pointers-and-hand-signals-a-deaf-chef-in-the-kitchen/","disqusTitle":"Laser Pointers And Hand Signals: A Deaf Chef In The Kitchen","source":"Deaf chefs","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/deaf/","nprByline":"Kristen Hartke, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"Kristen Hartke for NPR","nprStoryId":"546826513","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=546826513&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/08/31/546826513/laser-pointers-and-hand-signals-a-deaf-chef-in-the-kitchen?ft=nprml&f=546826513","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 31 Aug 2017 14:20:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 31 Aug 2017 06:59:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 31 Aug 2017 14:20:32 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/120318/laser-pointers-and-hand-signals-a-deaf-chef-in-the-kitchen","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Amid the hustle and bustle of the kitchen at Marcel's, a fine dining restaurant in Washington, D.C., one member of the staff is immune to the noise. It's David Uzzell, the 28-year-old \u003cem>saucier\u003c/em> responsible for such delicacies as pan-seared foie gras or mushroom mornay sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Uzzell is a deaf chef — a rarity in the vast majority of restaurant kitchens. When chef and owner Robert Wiedmaier needs to get Uzzell's attention while expediting during dinner service, he pokes him in the shoulder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"David gets poked a lot,\" says Wiedmaier. \"There might be a dent in his shoulder from my finger by now.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's not all poking, according to Uzzell. \"We've come up with some workarounds,\" he says — or writes, using one of the many notepads that are permanently kept at his station to help with more lengthy communications. Having completely lost his hearing by the time he was a year old, Uzzell is used to having to figure out how to communicate to a hearing audience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I've never seen somebody text so fast,\" says Wiedmaier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being hard of hearing in a busy restaurant kitchen means that Uzzell's coworkers have come up with a variety of ways to get his attention over the past few years, from laser pointers to elaborate hand signals. At the same time, Uzzell is now such a fixture in the \u003cem>brigade de cuisine\u003c/em> — the French term for the hierarchy of kitchen staff — that they sometimes forget that he's deaf at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fact, sous chef Chris McFayden has a tendency to just talk extra loudly to Uzzell, which the kitchen staff finds amusing — as Wiedmaier quips, \"It doesn't matter how loud you are, he still can't hear you.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Uzzell's part, whether or not he can hear McFayden yelling is less about the noise and more about the lesson. \"You have to develop a thick skin,\" he says of working in a restaurant kitchen. \"You can't take criticism personally. It's not about whether or not I'm deaf.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In a kitchen,\" says McFayden, \"everybody tends to learn when the chef yells at somebody else for a mistake. With David, I have to remember that he's not going to hear me telling someone that they did something wrong; I'm going to have to make a point to make sure he knows.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After graduating in 2012 from Gallaudet University, a private university for the deaf and hard of hearing in Washington, D.C., Uzzell had a degree in history but no actual work history to help him to find a job. It's a common problem in the deaf community. According to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.nationaldeafcenter.org/deaf-people-and-employment-united-states-2016\">2016 study\u003c/a> by the National Deaf Center, just 48 percent of deaf Americans, aged 21 to 64, is employed, either full or part time, as compared to 72 percent of the hearing population.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A friend recommended that Uzzell look for work at Union Market, a popular upscale food court near Gallaudet, whose vendors catered to the nearby deaf community. Starting off as a dishwasher and working his way up through the ranks in a few professional kitchens, Uzzell arrived at Marcel's in 2014 looking for new opportunities. The fact that he was hard of hearing was not a hindrance as far as Wiedmaier was concerned, since he'd already previously employed a deaf chef at another restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bottom line, says Wiedmaier, \"I couldn't have hired David if he had no taste or sense of smell. Being deaf hasn't stopped him from being a damn good chef.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A combination of lip reading, writing, and hand signals has become de rigueur in the kitchen at Marcel's — but it's not always foolproof.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When I first started,\" recalls Uzzell, \"there were a few times when I thought Chef was asking for 'sea salt' when he was asking for 'Dijon.' The words lip-read very similarly.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McFayden's predecessor employed a laser pointer, aiming it on the counter at Uzzell's work station to alert him about new orders. In order to help communication run smoothly within the brigade, learning — and even inventing — a certain amount of sign language has become necessary to help convey the subtleties of cooking techniques.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Sometimes there's just not a sign that explains something very specific,\" says McFayden. \"When David worked at the roast station, that was trickier because there are different temperatures for the meats, like squab, elk, or bison, and timing becomes very important. So we created our own sign language, just for our kitchen.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Deaf people do have the deck stacked against them — we have to deal with a lot of factors,\" says Uzzell. \"I've been fortunate to be in a supportive and inclusive environment.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While being deaf in a hearing world is a challenge, Uzzell thinks that not being distracted by the noise around him in the kitchen can be a plus, allowing him to concentrate on the minute details that are crucial to presenting a perfectly prepared dish. Says Wiedmaier, \"He has a laser focus on his tasks.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in the kitchen at Marcel's, the staff loves to joke about the time a new cook was working on the line and couldn't get an order right, no matter how many times McFayden called it out, leading the sous chef to finally yell in exasperation, \"We've got a deaf guy that hears better than you!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While a few restaurants have been highlighted in recent years for hiring deaf employees, notably \u003ca href=\"https://www.fastcompany.com/3043126/inside-san-franciscos-deaf-owned-and-operated-pizzeria\">Mozzaria\u003c/a> in San Francisco — which is also deaf-owned — and \u003ca href=\"http://www.washingtoncitypaper.com/food/article/20864298/fare-well-accommodates-way-more-than-vegan-diners\">Fare Well\u003c/a> in Washington, D.C., it still remains a tough job for the deaf to land. For Wiedmaier's part, having Uzzell on staff offers a model that he thinks other employers should take note of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's important that we do this as a society,\" he says, about providing work for people with disabilities. \"In my 45 years in the business, I've only had two deaf chefs, but that's two more than most other restaurants have ever had. It's a bit challenging, but it's also worth the challenge. David has become so integrated in our kitchen that we honestly forget that he's deaf; we've all adapted to each other to function as a team.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Uzzell agrees, suggesting that employers be willing to think outside the box when it comes to communication, in order to help the deaf integrate into the workplace. \"Don't be afraid to hire us,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For now, Uzzell is focused on helping Marcel's gain a coveted Michelin star, but he still has some advice for those in the deaf community looking to land a job in a restaurant kitchen: \"Bust ass, work hard, and keep your knives sharp.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://kristenhartke.com\">Kristen Hartke\u003c/a>\u003cem> is a food writer based in Washington, D.C.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/120318/laser-pointers-and-hand-signals-a-deaf-chef-in-the-kitchen","authors":["byline_bayareabites_120318"],"categories":["bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_358"],"tags":["bayareabites_9938","bayareabites_14992","bayareabites_14800"],"featImg":"bayareabites_120320","label":"source_bayareabites_120318"},"bayareabites_119538":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_119538","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"119538","score":null,"sort":[1501621516000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"farm-to-table-may-feel-virtuous-but-its-food-labor-thats-ripe-for-change","title":"Farm-To-Table May Feel Virtuous, But It's Food Labor That's Ripe For Change","publishDate":1501621516,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>Reusing (\u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/andreareusing\">\u003cem>@AndreaReusing\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>) is the James Beard award-winning chef at Lantern in Chapel Hill, N.C.\u003c/em>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Novel and thrilling in earlier days, today's farm-to-table restaurant menus have scaled new heights of supposed transparency. The specificity can be weirdly opaque, much like an actual menu item that recently made the rounds: Quail Egg Coated in the Ashes of Dried Sheep's S***. Farm-to-table fatigue is most evident in those of us who cook in farm-to-table restaurants — Even We Are Sick of Us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the 15 years since Lantern opened, guests at my Asian-influenced farm-to-table restaurant have only rarely asked why a white girl from New Jersey is cooking fried rice in North Carolina alongside a kitchen crew mostly born in Mexico. The food we cook is openly and inherently inauthentic. But guests are sometimes surprised to learn that every single thing we serve isn't both local and organic, that our relatively expensive menu yields only slim profit or that we can't afford a group health plan. Diners occasionally comment that our use of Alaskan salmon or California cilantro has detracted from a truly \"authentic\" farm-to-table experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ubiquity that makes farm-to-table meaningless also gives it its power. It has come to signify authenticity on almost any level, suggesting practices as complicated as adherence to fair labor standards, supply chain transparency or avoidance of GMOs. As farm-to-table has slipped further away from the food movement and into the realms of foodie-ism and corporate marketing, it is increasingly unhitched from the issues it is so often assumed to address.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Farm-to-table's sincere glow distracts from how the production and processing of even the most pristine ingredients — from field or dock or slaughterhouse to restaurant or school cafeteria — is nearly always configured to rely on cheap labor. Work very often performed by people who are themselves poor and hungry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inequality does not affect our food system — our food system is built on inequality and requires it to function. The components of this inequality —racism, lack of access to capital, exploitation, land loss, nutritional and health disparities in communities of color, to name some — are tightly connected. Our nearly 20-year obsession with food and chefs has neither expanded access to high-quality food nor improved nutrition in low-resource neighborhoods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Only an honest look at how food gets to the table in the U.S. can begin to unwind these connections.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food workers, as members of both the largest and lowest-paid U.S. workforce, are in a unique position to lead these conversations. Many of us have already helped incubate policy change on wage equality, organic certification and the humane treatment of animals. But a simpler and maybe even more powerful way we can be catalysts for real change in the food system is to simply tell the stories of who we are.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take immigration. Our current policy renders much of the U.S. workforce completely invisible. This is more true in the food industry than in any other place in American life. There is a widespread disconnect on the critical role recent immigrants play in producing our food and an underlying empathy gap when it comes to the reality of daily life for these low-wage food workers and their families.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, here in North Carolina, over 150,000 immigrant farm and food-processing workers harvest nearly all the local food we eat and export, but their living and working conditions would shock most Americans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our state produces half the sweet potatoes grown in the U.S. — 500,000 tons a year — which are all harvested by hand. A worker here has to dig and haul 2 tons to earn about $50. In meatpacking plants, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/08/10/489468457/fines-for-meat-industrys-safety-problems-are-embarrassingly-low\">horrific injuries and deaths\u003c/a> resulting from unsafe working conditions are widespread. Farmworkers are exposed to far more pesticides than you or I would get on our spinach. \u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/food/in-an-immigration-crackdown-who-will-pick-our-produce/2017/03/17/cc1c6df4-0a5d-11e7-93dc-00f9bdd74ed1_story.html?utm_term=.a9ff3e7a4e11\">Poverty wages\u003c/a> allow ripe strawberries to be sold cheaply enough to be displayed unrefrigerated, piled high in produce section towers. Nearly half of immigrant farmworkers and their families in North Carolina are \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncfhp.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/FMC-Farmworker-Health-Factsheet.pdf\">food insecure\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When as chefs we wonder whether a pork chop tastes better if the pig ate corn or nuts but we don't talk about the people who worked in the slaughterhouse where it was processed, we are creating a kind of theater. We encourage our audience to suspend their disbelief.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The theater our audience sees — abundant grocery stores and farmers markets, absurdly cheap fast food and our farm-to-table dining rooms — resembles what Jean Baudrillard famously called the simulacrum, a kind of heightened parallel world that, like Disneyland, is an artifice with no meaningful connection to the real world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As chefs, we need to talk more about the economic realities of our kitchens and dining rooms and allow eaters to begin to experience them as we do: imperfect places where abundance and hope exist beside scarcity and compromise. Places that are weakened by the same structural inequality that afflicts every aspect of American life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roger Ebert described the capacity of movies to be \"like a machine that generates empathy.\" With more expansive definitions of authenticity and transparency, restaurants can become empathy machines and diners will get a better understanding of the lives of the people who feed us.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This essay was crafted in response to a summit on racism and difference in food, staged at \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://rivendellwriterscolony.org/\">\u003cem>Rivendell Writers Colony\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> by \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.southernfoodways.org/\">\u003cem>The Southern Foodways Alliance \u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>and \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://tonitiptonmartin.com/foundation/\">\u003cem>Soul Summit\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Even the most wholesome ingredients are produced through cheap labor, often by people who are themselves poor and hungry. It's time the food world talks about that, says an award-winning chef.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1501621516,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":19,"wordCount":938},"headData":{"title":"Farm-To-Table May Feel Virtuous, But It's Food Labor That's Ripe For Change | KQED","description":"Even the most wholesome ingredients are produced through cheap labor, often by people who are themselves poor and hungry. It's time the food world talks about that, says an award-winning chef.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Farm-To-Table May Feel Virtuous, But It's Food Labor That's Ripe For Change","datePublished":"2017-08-01T21:05:16.000Z","dateModified":"2017-08-01T21:05:16.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"119538 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=119538","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/08/01/farm-to-table-may-feel-virtuous-but-its-food-labor-thats-ripe-for-change/","disqusTitle":"Farm-To-Table May Feel Virtuous, But It's Food Labor That's Ripe For Change","nprByline":"Andrea Reusing, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"Sandy Huffaker/AFP/Getty Images","nprStoryId":"539112692","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=539112692&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/07/30/539112692/a-chefs-plea?ft=nprml&f=539112692","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 01 Aug 2017 11:48:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Sun, 30 Jul 2017 07:18:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 01 Aug 2017 11:48:57 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/119538/farm-to-table-may-feel-virtuous-but-its-food-labor-thats-ripe-for-change","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Reusing (\u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/andreareusing\">\u003cem>@AndreaReusing\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>) is the James Beard award-winning chef at Lantern in Chapel Hill, N.C.\u003c/em>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Novel and thrilling in earlier days, today's farm-to-table restaurant menus have scaled new heights of supposed transparency. The specificity can be weirdly opaque, much like an actual menu item that recently made the rounds: Quail Egg Coated in the Ashes of Dried Sheep's S***. Farm-to-table fatigue is most evident in those of us who cook in farm-to-table restaurants — Even We Are Sick of Us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the 15 years since Lantern opened, guests at my Asian-influenced farm-to-table restaurant have only rarely asked why a white girl from New Jersey is cooking fried rice in North Carolina alongside a kitchen crew mostly born in Mexico. The food we cook is openly and inherently inauthentic. But guests are sometimes surprised to learn that every single thing we serve isn't both local and organic, that our relatively expensive menu yields only slim profit or that we can't afford a group health plan. Diners occasionally comment that our use of Alaskan salmon or California cilantro has detracted from a truly \"authentic\" farm-to-table experience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ubiquity that makes farm-to-table meaningless also gives it its power. It has come to signify authenticity on almost any level, suggesting practices as complicated as adherence to fair labor standards, supply chain transparency or avoidance of GMOs. As farm-to-table has slipped further away from the food movement and into the realms of foodie-ism and corporate marketing, it is increasingly unhitched from the issues it is so often assumed to address.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Farm-to-table's sincere glow distracts from how the production and processing of even the most pristine ingredients — from field or dock or slaughterhouse to restaurant or school cafeteria — is nearly always configured to rely on cheap labor. Work very often performed by people who are themselves poor and hungry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inequality does not affect our food system — our food system is built on inequality and requires it to function. The components of this inequality —racism, lack of access to capital, exploitation, land loss, nutritional and health disparities in communities of color, to name some — are tightly connected. Our nearly 20-year obsession with food and chefs has neither expanded access to high-quality food nor improved nutrition in low-resource neighborhoods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Only an honest look at how food gets to the table in the U.S. can begin to unwind these connections.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food workers, as members of both the largest and lowest-paid U.S. workforce, are in a unique position to lead these conversations. Many of us have already helped incubate policy change on wage equality, organic certification and the humane treatment of animals. But a simpler and maybe even more powerful way we can be catalysts for real change in the food system is to simply tell the stories of who we are.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take immigration. Our current policy renders much of the U.S. workforce completely invisible. This is more true in the food industry than in any other place in American life. There is a widespread disconnect on the critical role recent immigrants play in producing our food and an underlying empathy gap when it comes to the reality of daily life for these low-wage food workers and their families.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, here in North Carolina, over 150,000 immigrant farm and food-processing workers harvest nearly all the local food we eat and export, but their living and working conditions would shock most Americans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our state produces half the sweet potatoes grown in the U.S. — 500,000 tons a year — which are all harvested by hand. A worker here has to dig and haul 2 tons to earn about $50. In meatpacking plants, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/08/10/489468457/fines-for-meat-industrys-safety-problems-are-embarrassingly-low\">horrific injuries and deaths\u003c/a> resulting from unsafe working conditions are widespread. Farmworkers are exposed to far more pesticides than you or I would get on our spinach. \u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/food/in-an-immigration-crackdown-who-will-pick-our-produce/2017/03/17/cc1c6df4-0a5d-11e7-93dc-00f9bdd74ed1_story.html?utm_term=.a9ff3e7a4e11\">Poverty wages\u003c/a> allow ripe strawberries to be sold cheaply enough to be displayed unrefrigerated, piled high in produce section towers. Nearly half of immigrant farmworkers and their families in North Carolina are \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncfhp.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/FMC-Farmworker-Health-Factsheet.pdf\">food insecure\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When as chefs we wonder whether a pork chop tastes better if the pig ate corn or nuts but we don't talk about the people who worked in the slaughterhouse where it was processed, we are creating a kind of theater. We encourage our audience to suspend their disbelief.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The theater our audience sees — abundant grocery stores and farmers markets, absurdly cheap fast food and our farm-to-table dining rooms — resembles what Jean Baudrillard famously called the simulacrum, a kind of heightened parallel world that, like Disneyland, is an artifice with no meaningful connection to the real world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As chefs, we need to talk more about the economic realities of our kitchens and dining rooms and allow eaters to begin to experience them as we do: imperfect places where abundance and hope exist beside scarcity and compromise. Places that are weakened by the same structural inequality that afflicts every aspect of American life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roger Ebert described the capacity of movies to be \"like a machine that generates empathy.\" With more expansive definitions of authenticity and transparency, restaurants can become empathy machines and diners will get a better understanding of the lives of the people who feed us.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This essay was crafted in response to a summit on racism and difference in food, staged at \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://rivendellwriterscolony.org/\">\u003cem>Rivendell Writers Colony\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem> by \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.southernfoodways.org/\">\u003cem>The Southern Foodways Alliance \u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>and \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://tonitiptonmartin.com/foundation/\">\u003cem>Soul Summit\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/119538/farm-to-table-may-feel-virtuous-but-its-food-labor-thats-ripe-for-change","authors":["byline_bayareabites_119538"],"categories":["bayareabites_1874","bayareabites_3032","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_12504","bayareabites_13663","bayareabites_14800","bayareabites_14177"],"featImg":"bayareabites_119539","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_113679":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_113679","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"113679","score":null,"sort":[1479571259000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-people-behind-your-food-are-more-vulnerable-than-ever","title":"The People Behind Your Food Are More Vulnerable Than Ever","publishDate":1479571259,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Shanita has worked as a server in restaurants for years. The Brooklyn resident, who preferred not to use her last name, says she’s often had to work two, three, and even four jobs just to pay the bills.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When asked whether she’s ever received benefits or sick days, she burst out laughing. “I got fired from a job because I was sick,” she counters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shanita is one of 20 workers whose experiences are documented in a new report out today called “No Piece of the Pie: U.S. Food Workers in 2016.”\u003cspan id=\"more-25691\">\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The report comes from \u003ca href=\"http://foodchainworkers.org/\">Food Chain Workers Alliance\u003c/a> (FCWA), a group that has been working for years to shine a light on the 21.5 million people who are employed across the five sectors of the food chain—from production to processing, distribution, retail, and service. The report, \u003cem>No Piece of the Pie\u003c/em>, uses government data, academic literature, and in-depth illustrative interviews with workers to paint an updated picture of the bleak situation many of them face.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the food system continues to create jobs, FCWA found, workers in this industry face low wages, few benefits, unsafe working conditions, and discrimination—in many cases at levels much higher than other industries. And although the research was conducted before last week’s election, it arrives at a time when low-wage workers are likely to be particularly vulnerable to cuts to our nation’s social safety net.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_113681\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 680px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/IMG_7131-e1479066323316-680x757.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/IMG_7131-e1479066323316-680x757.jpg\" alt=\"Reyna Martinez\" width=\"680\" height=\"757\" class=\"size-full wp-image-113681\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/IMG_7131-e1479066323316-680x757.jpg 680w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/IMG_7131-e1479066323316-680x757-160x178.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/IMG_7131-e1479066323316-680x757-240x267.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/IMG_7131-e1479066323316-680x757-375x417.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/IMG_7131-e1479066323316-680x757-520x579.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 680px) 100vw, 680px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reyna Martinez \u003ccite>( Courtesy of Food Chain Workers Alliance)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Key Findings\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the report, food is now the largest employment sector in the United States, after growing 13 percent from 2010 to 2016.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the number of food sector jobs has increased significantly, they’re some of the worst jobs around. Food workers earn a median hourly wage of $10 per hour—the lowest of all industries in the country—and patterns of inequality have produced large wage gaps based on gender and race. Confounding the issue is the fact that the percentage of workers in the food system that are covered by union contracts has gone down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jose Vega, who worked in sanitation at a processing plant for Taylor Farms, a large supplier of packaged fruits, vegetables, and salads, was paid $9.50 per hour when he first started. “It was not enough to support your family, “ he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a result, many rely on public assistance, with 13 percent of food workers, or 2.8 million people, using SNAP (Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program) benefits (or “food stamps”) in 2016.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I was surprised at the increase in the number of workers who are relying on SNAP benefits,” said FCWA’s co-president Joann Lo. “It’s really sad that the workers we depend on for our food every day have to rely on food stamps to feed themselves and their families.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_113682\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 470px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung.jpg\" alt=\"Workers protesting \" width=\"470\" height=\"474\" class=\"size-full wp-image-113682\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung.jpg 470w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung-160x161.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung-240x242.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung-375x378.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 470px) 100vw, 470px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Workers protesting \u003ccite>(Courtesy of UFCW Local 770)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The rate of non-fatal workplace-caused injury and illness in the food production sector also went up, from 4.6 cases per hundred workers in 2010 to 5.5 in 2014. This rise didn’t surprise Vega, who detailed the dangers workers at Taylor Farms faced working with sanitizing chemicals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The chemicals in the drain … it would start smelling bad and some people couldn’t handle it. The smell was too strong and your stomach hurts and your eyes burn and you start getting a headache, and a lot of coughing,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He relayed one story of a chemical spill at the plant in 2015, when 12 workers were sent to the hospital. “The worst thing was, the next day, the manager … got all the workers together in the warehouse, and he told them, ‘you better not talk about what happened here. It might affect the company image and all of you guys might lose your job.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Future for Food Workers Under Trump\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of FCWA’s biggest concerns is the impact the Trump administration will have on immigrants working on farms, in factories, and elsewhere. “We’ve already heard from workers who are really afraid and concerned—even more so than under Obama—that will they get fired, or there will be more discrimination against them because they’re immigrants, whether they’re undocumented or not,” says Lo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says her group has also heard from workers who are worried about losing their insurance if this administration overturns the Affordable Care Act, as both Trump and Republicans in Congress have said they will. “The majority of food workers are already on the margins, getting paid such low wages, and not having paid sick days and other benefits,” says Lo. “So losing their health insurance will be another devastating blow.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other concern is the impact on workers’ right to organize. “Trump will be able to bring people to the National Labor Relations Board, which oversees the enforcement of the law that oversees workers right to organize and collectively bargain,” says Lo. FCWA also expects that Trump and a Republican Congress will attempt to change the national \u003ca href=\"http://www.motherjones.com/politics/2012/03/what-are-right-to-work-laws\">right-to-work laws\u003c/a>, and that will make it much harder for workers to organize and join the union. This is important because, “as we found in the research for the report, workers who are organized earn 26 percent more than those who are not,” adds Lo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_113683\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 480px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/Enrique-lecheria.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/Enrique-lecheria.png\" alt=\"Enrique Lecheria \" width=\"480\" height=\"640\" class=\"size-full wp-image-113683\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/Enrique-lecheria.png 480w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/Enrique-lecheria-160x213.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/Enrique-lecheria-240x320.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/Enrique-lecheria-375x500.png 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 480px) 100vw, 480px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Enrique Lecheria \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Migrant Justice)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Unifying the Food Movement\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the same period the report covers, consumers were \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnavigator-usa.com/Markets/US-organic-food-market-to-grow-14-from-2013-18\">increasingly demanding local, organic food\u003c/a>, and voicing concerns about how the food system affects personal health, the environment, and animal welfare. But Lo says she hasn’t always seen that concern translate to an effort to change circumstances for workers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“So many of the workers in the food system are invisible to foodies and consumers overall,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The election could change that, if other activists and organizers in the food movement can come together, however.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lo sees it as an opportunity for labor groups like FCWA to continue the work they’ve been doing for the last decade to build bridges with advocates working on environmental issues, public health, and fair prices for farmers. On a similar note, she is optimistic that impacted people in a range of communities—from Black communities to Muslims, LGBTQ, women’s rights groups, and immigrant workers—will “join forces” in the months and years ahead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>No Piece of the Pie\u003c/em> offers specific steps both policymakers and consumers can take to improve job conditions across the food system, but Lo isn’t very optimistic about seeing anything change for food workers for the better on a national level under the next administration. She does however point to work at the local level, such as advocating for \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2016/06/27/good-food-purchasing-policy-is-changing-the-food-in-l-a-schools-and-the-system-behind-it/\">good food purchasing programs\u003c/a> and other institutional buying efforts, as additional bright spots in a dim national political landscape. The passage of recent ballot efforts in \u003ca href=\"https://consumerist.com/2016/11/09/one-state-one-city-voted-to-eventually-do-away-with-sub-minimum-wages-for-tipped-workers/\">Flagstaff, Arizona, and Maine\u003c/a> that will eventually eliminate the sub-minimum wage for tipped workers were also hopeful signs, she adds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ultimately, says Lo, the recent changes will prompt a battle with little end in sight. “It’s not a choice.” She says, “We are going to organize and resist the policy changes that Trump’s administration is going to try to push through.”\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"New data suggests workers across the food system are still struggling to feed themselves and their families. And it won’t get better under Trump.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1480466263,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":27,"wordCount":1287},"headData":{"title":"The People Behind Your Food Are More Vulnerable Than Ever | KQED","description":"New data suggests workers across the food system are still struggling to feed themselves and their families. And it won’t get better under Trump.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The People Behind Your Food Are More Vulnerable Than Ever","datePublished":"2016-11-19T16:00:59.000Z","dateModified":"2016-11-30T00:37:43.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"113679 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=113679","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/11/19/the-people-behind-your-food-are-more-vulnerable-than-ever/","disqusTitle":"The People Behind Your Food Are More Vulnerable Than Ever","nprByline":"Lisa Held, \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2016/11/14/the-people-behind-your-food-are-more-vulnerable-than-ever/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>","path":"/bayareabites/113679/the-people-behind-your-food-are-more-vulnerable-than-ever","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Shanita has worked as a server in restaurants for years. The Brooklyn resident, who preferred not to use her last name, says she’s often had to work two, three, and even four jobs just to pay the bills.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When asked whether she’s ever received benefits or sick days, she burst out laughing. “I got fired from a job because I was sick,” she counters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shanita is one of 20 workers whose experiences are documented in a new report out today called “No Piece of the Pie: U.S. Food Workers in 2016.”\u003cspan id=\"more-25691\">\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The report comes from \u003ca href=\"http://foodchainworkers.org/\">Food Chain Workers Alliance\u003c/a> (FCWA), a group that has been working for years to shine a light on the 21.5 million people who are employed across the five sectors of the food chain—from production to processing, distribution, retail, and service. The report, \u003cem>No Piece of the Pie\u003c/em>, uses government data, academic literature, and in-depth illustrative interviews with workers to paint an updated picture of the bleak situation many of them face.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the food system continues to create jobs, FCWA found, workers in this industry face low wages, few benefits, unsafe working conditions, and discrimination—in many cases at levels much higher than other industries. And although the research was conducted before last week’s election, it arrives at a time when low-wage workers are likely to be particularly vulnerable to cuts to our nation’s social safety net.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_113681\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 680px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/IMG_7131-e1479066323316-680x757.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/IMG_7131-e1479066323316-680x757.jpg\" alt=\"Reyna Martinez\" width=\"680\" height=\"757\" class=\"size-full wp-image-113681\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/IMG_7131-e1479066323316-680x757.jpg 680w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/IMG_7131-e1479066323316-680x757-160x178.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/IMG_7131-e1479066323316-680x757-240x267.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/IMG_7131-e1479066323316-680x757-375x417.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/IMG_7131-e1479066323316-680x757-520x579.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 680px) 100vw, 680px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reyna Martinez \u003ccite>( Courtesy of Food Chain Workers Alliance)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Key Findings\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the report, food is now the largest employment sector in the United States, after growing 13 percent from 2010 to 2016.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the number of food sector jobs has increased significantly, they’re some of the worst jobs around. Food workers earn a median hourly wage of $10 per hour—the lowest of all industries in the country—and patterns of inequality have produced large wage gaps based on gender and race. Confounding the issue is the fact that the percentage of workers in the food system that are covered by union contracts has gone down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jose Vega, who worked in sanitation at a processing plant for Taylor Farms, a large supplier of packaged fruits, vegetables, and salads, was paid $9.50 per hour when he first started. “It was not enough to support your family, “ he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a result, many rely on public assistance, with 13 percent of food workers, or 2.8 million people, using SNAP (Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program) benefits (or “food stamps”) in 2016.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I was surprised at the increase in the number of workers who are relying on SNAP benefits,” said FCWA’s co-president Joann Lo. “It’s really sad that the workers we depend on for our food every day have to rely on food stamps to feed themselves and their families.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_113682\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 470px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung.jpg\" alt=\"Workers protesting \" width=\"470\" height=\"474\" class=\"size-full wp-image-113682\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung.jpg 470w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung-160x161.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung-240x242.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung-375x378.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung-32x32.jpg 32w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung-50x50.jpg 50w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung-64x64.jpg 64w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung-96x96.jpg 96w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung-128x128.jpg 128w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/2014-12-20-boycott-King-Cheung-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 470px) 100vw, 470px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Workers protesting \u003ccite>(Courtesy of UFCW Local 770)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The rate of non-fatal workplace-caused injury and illness in the food production sector also went up, from 4.6 cases per hundred workers in 2010 to 5.5 in 2014. This rise didn’t surprise Vega, who detailed the dangers workers at Taylor Farms faced working with sanitizing chemicals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The chemicals in the drain … it would start smelling bad and some people couldn’t handle it. The smell was too strong and your stomach hurts and your eyes burn and you start getting a headache, and a lot of coughing,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He relayed one story of a chemical spill at the plant in 2015, when 12 workers were sent to the hospital. “The worst thing was, the next day, the manager … got all the workers together in the warehouse, and he told them, ‘you better not talk about what happened here. It might affect the company image and all of you guys might lose your job.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Future for Food Workers Under Trump\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of FCWA’s biggest concerns is the impact the Trump administration will have on immigrants working on farms, in factories, and elsewhere. “We’ve already heard from workers who are really afraid and concerned—even more so than under Obama—that will they get fired, or there will be more discrimination against them because they’re immigrants, whether they’re undocumented or not,” says Lo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says her group has also heard from workers who are worried about losing their insurance if this administration overturns the Affordable Care Act, as both Trump and Republicans in Congress have said they will. “The majority of food workers are already on the margins, getting paid such low wages, and not having paid sick days and other benefits,” says Lo. “So losing their health insurance will be another devastating blow.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other concern is the impact on workers’ right to organize. “Trump will be able to bring people to the National Labor Relations Board, which oversees the enforcement of the law that oversees workers right to organize and collectively bargain,” says Lo. FCWA also expects that Trump and a Republican Congress will attempt to change the national \u003ca href=\"http://www.motherjones.com/politics/2012/03/what-are-right-to-work-laws\">right-to-work laws\u003c/a>, and that will make it much harder for workers to organize and join the union. This is important because, “as we found in the research for the report, workers who are organized earn 26 percent more than those who are not,” adds Lo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_113683\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 480px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/Enrique-lecheria.png\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/Enrique-lecheria.png\" alt=\"Enrique Lecheria \" width=\"480\" height=\"640\" class=\"size-full wp-image-113683\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/Enrique-lecheria.png 480w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/Enrique-lecheria-160x213.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/Enrique-lecheria-240x320.png 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/11/Enrique-lecheria-375x500.png 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 480px) 100vw, 480px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Enrique Lecheria \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Migrant Justice)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Unifying the Food Movement\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the same period the report covers, consumers were \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnavigator-usa.com/Markets/US-organic-food-market-to-grow-14-from-2013-18\">increasingly demanding local, organic food\u003c/a>, and voicing concerns about how the food system affects personal health, the environment, and animal welfare. But Lo says she hasn’t always seen that concern translate to an effort to change circumstances for workers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“So many of the workers in the food system are invisible to foodies and consumers overall,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The election could change that, if other activists and organizers in the food movement can come together, however.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lo sees it as an opportunity for labor groups like FCWA to continue the work they’ve been doing for the last decade to build bridges with advocates working on environmental issues, public health, and fair prices for farmers. On a similar note, she is optimistic that impacted people in a range of communities—from Black communities to Muslims, LGBTQ, women’s rights groups, and immigrant workers—will “join forces” in the months and years ahead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>No Piece of the Pie\u003c/em> offers specific steps both policymakers and consumers can take to improve job conditions across the food system, but Lo isn’t very optimistic about seeing anything change for food workers for the better on a national level under the next administration. She does however point to work at the local level, such as advocating for \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2016/06/27/good-food-purchasing-policy-is-changing-the-food-in-l-a-schools-and-the-system-behind-it/\">good food purchasing programs\u003c/a> and other institutional buying efforts, as additional bright spots in a dim national political landscape. The passage of recent ballot efforts in \u003ca href=\"https://consumerist.com/2016/11/09/one-state-one-city-voted-to-eventually-do-away-with-sub-minimum-wages-for-tipped-workers/\">Flagstaff, Arizona, and Maine\u003c/a> that will eventually eliminate the sub-minimum wage for tipped workers were also hopeful signs, she adds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ultimately, says Lo, the recent changes will prompt a battle with little end in sight. “It’s not a choice.” She says, “We are going to organize and resist the policy changes that Trump’s administration is going to try to push through.”\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/113679/the-people-behind-your-food-are-more-vulnerable-than-ever","authors":["byline_bayareabites_113679"],"categories":["bayareabites_13718","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_15689","bayareabites_14800"],"featImg":"bayareabites_113680","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_102446":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_102446","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"102446","score":null,"sort":[1445549395000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-startling-racial-divide-in-pay-for-restaurant-workers","title":"The Startling Racial Divide In Pay For Restaurant Workers","publishDate":1445549395,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>In America's fine-dining restaurants, how much workers get paid is closely correlated to the color of their skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's according to a new study from researchers at the University of Santa Cruz and UC Berkeley. The report, \u003ca href=\"https://www.scribd.com/fullscreen/285968393?access_key=key-aB2D7wLPk5XfesMYf7Wj&allow_share=true&escape=false&view_mode=scroll\">Ending Jim Crow in America's Restaurants\u003c/a>, describes how waiters at high-end restaurants may earn salaries five times greater than those of employees washing dishes, clearing tables and prepping food in the same establishment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That pay disparity among different jobs is perhaps to be expected. The troubling part is the stark racial divide the researchers found between the highest- and lowest-paid workers: Basically, white employees overwhelmingly fill the jobs with the heftiest salaries, while Latinos, blacks and other minorities occupy positions with pay closer to the poverty level. The divide is gender-based, too: White men across the restaurant industry are paid, on average in the U.S., roughly a quarter more than women, whether white or of color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The racial segregation seen among America's 11 million restaurant workers is not necessarily a result of intentional discrimination on the part of employers, says study co-author \u003ca href=\"https://ccrec.ucsc.edu/profile/chris-benner-phd\">Chris Benner\u003c/a>, a professor of environmental studies at UC Santa Cruz.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rather, it is a product of many factors that cannot easily be eliminated or addressed through policy and legislation — the way that safe working conditions or minimum wage can.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For one thing, Benner tells The Salt, Latinos tend to apply for certain types of jobs, like dishwasher, line cook and table busser. Likewise, such so-called \"back-of-house\" positions are not generally targeted by Caucasian applicants, who more often seek higher-paying bartender and waiter positions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We call this the self-selection bias,\" says Benner, whose research involved interviewing owners and managers at 12 California restaurants, half of which were high-end establishments, and closely analyzing national industry data. \"People may just not see themselves as working in a certain area.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes, he says, customers may drive the bias against immigrants filling front-of-house positions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've heard of a lot of stories where the customer actually asked for a different server, because they had a hard time understanding the accent of whoever the server is,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is not the first time a close look at the restaurant industry has revealed striking inequity in the labor force. The organization Restaurant Opportunities Centers United went undercover in 2011 and 2012 and found that upscale restaurants were racially discriminating in their hiring process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The national group sent pairs of equally qualified individuals — one person white, the other not — to apply for jobs at white tablecloth-type restaurants in Chicago, Detroit and New Orleans. The group repeated this method, called \"matched pair testing,\" 273 times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Testers of color [in Chicago] were only 53 percent as likely as white testers to get a job offer, and were less likely than white testers to receive a job interview in the first place,\" according to the resulting \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/the-great-service-divide-national/\">report\u003c/a>, published in 2014. Applicants of color fared better in the other cities, but were still far less likely than their white counterparts to get the job.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That study was led by \u003ca href=\"http://laborcenter.berkeley.edu/author/saru-jayaraman/\">Saru Jayaraman\u003c/a>, co-director of Restaurant Opportunities Centers United and the director of the Food Labor Research Institute at UC Berkeley. She tells The Salt that about 20 percent of restaurant jobs pay exceptionally well. In the San Francisco Bay Area, for example, servers and bartenders can take home as much as $180,000 per year, she says – if they're working in upper-end establishments, the kind with $125 a person tasting menus, for example.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"But these jobs are held almost exclusively by white people, and in particular, white men,\" says Jayaraman, who also collaborated with Benner on the more recent research.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Latinos, she says, tend to spend their restaurant careers in back-of-house jobs, earning somewhere closer to $30,000 per year – with few paths for promotion or pay raises. Jayaraman says she has interviewed Latino table bussers who reported having helped train newly hired white employees who were easing into positions waiting tables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Then, within weeks or months, the people they're training are earning five times what that busser is making,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>African-Americans seem to have a particularly tough plight in the restaurant industry, mostly working in down-market restaurants where wages and tips are minimal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For African-American workers, it's almost 100-percent exclusion from [fine dining restaurants] altogether,\" Jayaraman says. \"They work almost exclusively at fast-food restaurants or very casual restaurants like Red Lobster.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of the big bucks in the restaurant industry come from tipping — a practice that is increasingly coming under scrutiny. Prominent New York restaurateur Danny Meyer recently banished tipping in his eateries as a step toward equalizing the skewed pay scale. In an \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/10/14/448678237/danny-meyer-will-banish-tipping-and-raise-prices-at-his-restaurants\">interview with NPR\u003c/a>, he noted that waiters' take-home pay at fine restaurants has skyrocketed thanks to tips, but the pay of workers at the back of the house hasn't kept pace. And women workers who rely on tips may feel obliged to tolerate sexual harassment from customers, Jayaraman \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2015/10/16/opinion/why-tipping-is-wrong.html?_r=0\">argued\u003c/a> in a recent op-ed for \u003cem>The\u003c/em> \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The National Restaurant Association thinks little of the new \"Ending Jim Crow\" study.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The restaurant industry is one of the most diverse industries in America, with zero barriers to entry and endless pathways to success,\" says Katie Niebaum, the association's vice president of communications, who corresponded with The Salt via email.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Niebaum, citing U.S. Census Bureau numbers, says restaurant ownership among minorities and women \"outpaced growth in the overall industry during the last 10 years on record.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In addition, we proudly employ more women and minority managers than any other industry,\" she says. \"Two in five restaurant managers are women; overall, one in three come from a minority background.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The researchers agree that the restaurant industry is more racially diverse today in America than in the past.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that, Jayaraman warns, should not necessarily win the industry any brownie points.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It just makes the segregation more and more pernicious, because we see greater concentrations of people of color in lower-level positions,\" Jayaraman says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"At fine-dining places, white workers overwhelmingly fill jobs with the heftiest salaries, while Latinos, blacks and other minorities have jobs with pay closer to the poverty level, a study finds.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1445549395,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":29,"wordCount":1043},"headData":{"title":"The Startling Racial Divide In Pay For Restaurant Workers | KQED","description":"At fine-dining places, white workers overwhelmingly fill jobs with the heftiest salaries, while Latinos, blacks and other minorities have jobs with pay closer to the poverty level, a study finds.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The Startling Racial Divide In Pay For Restaurant Workers","datePublished":"2015-10-22T21:29:55.000Z","dateModified":"2015-10-22T21:29:55.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"102446 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=102446","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/10/22/the-startling-racial-divide-in-pay-for-restaurant-workers/","disqusTitle":"The Startling Racial Divide In Pay For Restaurant Workers","nprByline":"Alastair Bland, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/npr-food/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprStoryId":"450863158","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=450863158&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/10/22/450863158/the-startling-racial-divide-in-pay-for-restaurant-workers?ft=nprml&f=450863158","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:35:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:02:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 22 Oct 2015 16:35:14 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/102446/the-startling-racial-divide-in-pay-for-restaurant-workers","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In America's fine-dining restaurants, how much workers get paid is closely correlated to the color of their skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's according to a new study from researchers at the University of Santa Cruz and UC Berkeley. The report, \u003ca href=\"https://www.scribd.com/fullscreen/285968393?access_key=key-aB2D7wLPk5XfesMYf7Wj&allow_share=true&escape=false&view_mode=scroll\">Ending Jim Crow in America's Restaurants\u003c/a>, describes how waiters at high-end restaurants may earn salaries five times greater than those of employees washing dishes, clearing tables and prepping food in the same establishment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That pay disparity among different jobs is perhaps to be expected. The troubling part is the stark racial divide the researchers found between the highest- and lowest-paid workers: Basically, white employees overwhelmingly fill the jobs with the heftiest salaries, while Latinos, blacks and other minorities occupy positions with pay closer to the poverty level. The divide is gender-based, too: White men across the restaurant industry are paid, on average in the U.S., roughly a quarter more than women, whether white or of color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The racial segregation seen among America's 11 million restaurant workers is not necessarily a result of intentional discrimination on the part of employers, says study co-author \u003ca href=\"https://ccrec.ucsc.edu/profile/chris-benner-phd\">Chris Benner\u003c/a>, a professor of environmental studies at UC Santa Cruz.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rather, it is a product of many factors that cannot easily be eliminated or addressed through policy and legislation — the way that safe working conditions or minimum wage can.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For one thing, Benner tells The Salt, Latinos tend to apply for certain types of jobs, like dishwasher, line cook and table busser. Likewise, such so-called \"back-of-house\" positions are not generally targeted by Caucasian applicants, who more often seek higher-paying bartender and waiter positions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We call this the self-selection bias,\" says Benner, whose research involved interviewing owners and managers at 12 California restaurants, half of which were high-end establishments, and closely analyzing national industry data. \"People may just not see themselves as working in a certain area.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes, he says, customers may drive the bias against immigrants filling front-of-house positions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've heard of a lot of stories where the customer actually asked for a different server, because they had a hard time understanding the accent of whoever the server is,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is not the first time a close look at the restaurant industry has revealed striking inequity in the labor force. The organization Restaurant Opportunities Centers United went undercover in 2011 and 2012 and found that upscale restaurants were racially discriminating in their hiring process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The national group sent pairs of equally qualified individuals — one person white, the other not — to apply for jobs at white tablecloth-type restaurants in Chicago, Detroit and New Orleans. The group repeated this method, called \"matched pair testing,\" 273 times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Testers of color [in Chicago] were only 53 percent as likely as white testers to get a job offer, and were less likely than white testers to receive a job interview in the first place,\" according to the resulting \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/the-great-service-divide-national/\">report\u003c/a>, published in 2014. Applicants of color fared better in the other cities, but were still far less likely than their white counterparts to get the job.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That study was led by \u003ca href=\"http://laborcenter.berkeley.edu/author/saru-jayaraman/\">Saru Jayaraman\u003c/a>, co-director of Restaurant Opportunities Centers United and the director of the Food Labor Research Institute at UC Berkeley. She tells The Salt that about 20 percent of restaurant jobs pay exceptionally well. In the San Francisco Bay Area, for example, servers and bartenders can take home as much as $180,000 per year, she says – if they're working in upper-end establishments, the kind with $125 a person tasting menus, for example.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"But these jobs are held almost exclusively by white people, and in particular, white men,\" says Jayaraman, who also collaborated with Benner on the more recent research.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Latinos, she says, tend to spend their restaurant careers in back-of-house jobs, earning somewhere closer to $30,000 per year – with few paths for promotion or pay raises. Jayaraman says she has interviewed Latino table bussers who reported having helped train newly hired white employees who were easing into positions waiting tables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Then, within weeks or months, the people they're training are earning five times what that busser is making,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>African-Americans seem to have a particularly tough plight in the restaurant industry, mostly working in down-market restaurants where wages and tips are minimal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For African-American workers, it's almost 100-percent exclusion from [fine dining restaurants] altogether,\" Jayaraman says. \"They work almost exclusively at fast-food restaurants or very casual restaurants like Red Lobster.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of the big bucks in the restaurant industry come from tipping — a practice that is increasingly coming under scrutiny. Prominent New York restaurateur Danny Meyer recently banished tipping in his eateries as a step toward equalizing the skewed pay scale. In an \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/10/14/448678237/danny-meyer-will-banish-tipping-and-raise-prices-at-his-restaurants\">interview with NPR\u003c/a>, he noted that waiters' take-home pay at fine restaurants has skyrocketed thanks to tips, but the pay of workers at the back of the house hasn't kept pace. And women workers who rely on tips may feel obliged to tolerate sexual harassment from customers, Jayaraman \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2015/10/16/opinion/why-tipping-is-wrong.html?_r=0\">argued\u003c/a> in a recent op-ed for \u003cem>The\u003c/em> \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The National Restaurant Association thinks little of the new \"Ending Jim Crow\" study.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The restaurant industry is one of the most diverse industries in America, with zero barriers to entry and endless pathways to success,\" says Katie Niebaum, the association's vice president of communications, who corresponded with The Salt via email.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Niebaum, citing U.S. Census Bureau numbers, says restaurant ownership among minorities and women \"outpaced growth in the overall industry during the last 10 years on record.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In addition, we proudly employ more women and minority managers than any other industry,\" she says. \"Two in five restaurant managers are women; overall, one in three come from a minority background.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The researchers agree that the restaurant industry is more racially diverse today in America than in the past.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that, Jayaraman warns, should not necessarily win the industry any brownie points.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It just makes the segregation more and more pernicious, because we see greater concentrations of people of color in lower-level positions,\" Jayaraman says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/102446/the-startling-racial-divide-in-pay-for-restaurant-workers","authors":["byline_bayareabites_102446"],"categories":["bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1146","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_14998","bayareabites_14997","bayareabites_14800","bayareabites_14996","bayareabites_8832","bayareabites_11875","bayareabites_11425","bayareabites_11424","bayareabites_11318","bayareabites_9649","bayareabites_14999","bayareabites_13064"],"featImg":"bayareabites_102447","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_102276":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_102276","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"102276","score":null,"sort":[1445291706000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"survey-half-of-food-workers-go-to-work-sick-because-they-have-to","title":"Survey: Half Of Food Workers Go To Work Sick Because They Have To","publishDate":1445291706,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Flu season is here. And when the flu strikes, the luckier victims may call in sick without getting punished or losing pay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But many American workers, including those who handle our food, aren't so fortunate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fifty-one percent of food workers – who do everything from grow and process food to cook and serve it – said they \"always\" or \"frequently\" go to work when they're sick, according to the results of a \u003ca href=\"http://www.alchemysystems.com/mindofthefoodworker/\">survey\u003c/a> released Monday.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Another 38 percent said they go to work sick \"sometimes.\" \u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's a practice that can have serious public health consequences. For instance, as The Salt \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2014/06/03/318524155/norovirus-far-more-likely-to-come-from-restaurant-than-cruise-ship\">reported\u003c/a> last year, the vast majority of reported cases of norovirus — the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cdc.gov/vitalsigns/norovirus/index.html\">leading cause\u003c/a> of foodborne disease outbreaks and illnesses across the country — have been linked to infected food industry workers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it's not as if these sick food workers are careless. Nine out of 10 workers polled in the new survey said they feel responsible for the safety and well-being of their customers. Yet about 45 percent said they go to work sick because they \"can't afford to lose pay.\" And about 46 percent said they do it because \"don't want to let co-workers down.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The study was commissioned by Alchemy, a firm that works with companies across the food chain to improve safety and productivity. Alchemy CEO Jeff Eastman tells The Salt that the survey was designed to help his firm learn more about the experience of the food worker. Alchemy asked the \u003ca href=\"http://www.crpp.com/\">Center for Research and Public Policy\u003c/a>, a consulting firm, to conduct the research with more than 1,200 food workers in the U.S. and Canada\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>in July.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though some people might be tempted to point a finger at the workers for going to work sick, the reality of their situation helps explain why they do it, says \u003ca href=\"http://foodchainworkers.org/?page_id=118\">Jose Oliva\u003c/a>, co-director of the Food Chain Workers Alliance. \"A lot of these workers actually depend on every single one of the days that they work for money,\" Oliva says. \"So if you don't go to work, you don't get paid.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, a \u003ca href=\"http://foodchainworkers.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Hands-That-Feed-Us-Report.pdf\">2012 study\u003c/a>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>from Oliva's Food Chain Workers Alliance and the Restaurant Opportunities Centers United found that 79 percent of food system workers did not have paid sick days or did not know if they did. Similar to the current study, the 2012 report also found that 53 percent of workers had worked when they were sick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Oliva points to another factor in the equation: low wages. Many of the lowest-paying jobs in America are in the food industry, according to data from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bls.gov/oes/current/oes_nat.htm#00-0000\">Bureau of Labor Statistics\u003c/a>. If workers were making a living wage, Oliva says, they might have more flexibility to take an unpaid day when needed. But for workers making minimum wage, or even the federal subminimum \"tipped\" wage of $2.13 per hour, \"You just can't,\" take an unpaid day, Oliva says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to \u003ca href=\"http://laborcenter.berkeley.edu/author/saru-jayaraman/\">Saru Jayaraman\u003c/a>, co-director of the Restaurant Opportunities Centers United and director of the Food Labor Research Center at the University of California, Berkeley, workers have other incentives to come to work sick. \"It's also that they'd actually be penalized, fired or retaliated against for taking a day off when sick,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Research that the ROCU conducted in Philadelphia, for example, showed that a third of restaurant workers in that city have worked sick because they feared retaliation if they took a day off. Jayaraman, author of the 2014 book \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Behind-Kitchen-Door-Saru-Jayaraman/dp/0801479517\">Behind the Kitchen Door\u003c/a>, says workers have told her that they've reported to duty with everything from H1N1 to pink eye and typhoid fever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One of the most egregious examples that I describe in the book is a worker at a Fayetteville, N.C., Olive Garden [who] was forced to work with hepatitis A because [Olive Garden] doesn't have an earned sick leave policy,\" Jayaraman says. As a result, Jayaraman says, 3,000 people had to be tested for hepatitis A at the Cumberland County, N.C., health department.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Four states – California, Connecticut, Massachusetts and Oregon – \u003ca href=\"http://familyvaluesatwork.org/media-center/paid-sick-days-wins\">have passed legislation\u003c/a> to provide paid sick leave, in addition to a number of cities across the country. Last month, President Obama \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2015/09/07/438354750/obama-signs-order-to-extend-contractors-paid-sick-leave\">signed an executive order\u003c/a> allowing employees of federal contractors to earn up to seven paid sick days a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some food businesses are improving their policies, too. In July, Chipotle \u003ca href=\"http://ir.chipotle.com/phoenix.zhtml?c=194775&p=irol-newsArticle&ID=2069647\">expanded\u003c/a> paid sick leave to all its employees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Jayaraman says there's still \"tremendous opposition\" to paid sick leave, from the National Restaurant Association and other industry groups. (The association did not respond to multiple requests for comment from NPR.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Update, 1:57 p.m.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The National Restaurant Association's Christin Fernandez tells The Salt that her organization \"does not want workers going into work sick. Flexible scheduling is a hallmark of the restaurant industry. If a restaurant employee is not feeling well, one of good things about the industry is that they can talk to their employer ... and work out a schedule that best fits their health needs.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Sick food workers who go to work say they can't afford to stay home or don't want to let their co-workers down, a survey finds. That puts consumers at risk of getting sick from contaminated food.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1445291706,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":861},"headData":{"title":"Survey: Half Of Food Workers Go To Work Sick Because They Have To | KQED","description":"Sick food workers who go to work say they can't afford to stay home or don't want to let their co-workers down, a survey finds. That puts consumers at risk of getting sick from contaminated food.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Survey: Half Of Food Workers Go To Work Sick Because They Have To","datePublished":"2015-10-19T21:55:06.000Z","dateModified":"2015-10-19T21:55:06.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"102276 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=102276","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/10/19/survey-half-of-food-workers-go-to-work-sick-because-they-have-to/","disqusTitle":"Survey: Half Of Food Workers Go To Work Sick Because They Have To","nprByline":"Lynne Shallcross, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/npr-food/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprStoryId":"449213511","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=449213511&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/10/19/449213511/survey-half-of-food-workers-go-to-work-sick-because-they-have-to?ft=nprml&f=449213511","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 19 Oct 2015 14:47:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 19 Oct 2015 12:28:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 19 Oct 2015 14:47:43 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/102276/survey-half-of-food-workers-go-to-work-sick-because-they-have-to","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Flu season is here. And when the flu strikes, the luckier victims may call in sick without getting punished or losing pay.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But many American workers, including those who handle our food, aren't so fortunate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fifty-one percent of food workers – who do everything from grow and process food to cook and serve it – said they \"always\" or \"frequently\" go to work when they're sick, according to the results of a \u003ca href=\"http://www.alchemysystems.com/mindofthefoodworker/\">survey\u003c/a> released Monday.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Another 38 percent said they go to work sick \"sometimes.\" \u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's a practice that can have serious public health consequences. For instance, as The Salt \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2014/06/03/318524155/norovirus-far-more-likely-to-come-from-restaurant-than-cruise-ship\">reported\u003c/a> last year, the vast majority of reported cases of norovirus — the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cdc.gov/vitalsigns/norovirus/index.html\">leading cause\u003c/a> of foodborne disease outbreaks and illnesses across the country — have been linked to infected food industry workers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But it's not as if these sick food workers are careless. Nine out of 10 workers polled in the new survey said they feel responsible for the safety and well-being of their customers. Yet about 45 percent said they go to work sick because they \"can't afford to lose pay.\" And about 46 percent said they do it because \"don't want to let co-workers down.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The study was commissioned by Alchemy, a firm that works with companies across the food chain to improve safety and productivity. Alchemy CEO Jeff Eastman tells The Salt that the survey was designed to help his firm learn more about the experience of the food worker. Alchemy asked the \u003ca href=\"http://www.crpp.com/\">Center for Research and Public Policy\u003c/a>, a consulting firm, to conduct the research with more than 1,200 food workers in the U.S. and Canada\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>in July.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though some people might be tempted to point a finger at the workers for going to work sick, the reality of their situation helps explain why they do it, says \u003ca href=\"http://foodchainworkers.org/?page_id=118\">Jose Oliva\u003c/a>, co-director of the Food Chain Workers Alliance. \"A lot of these workers actually depend on every single one of the days that they work for money,\" Oliva says. \"So if you don't go to work, you don't get paid.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, a \u003ca href=\"http://foodchainworkers.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Hands-That-Feed-Us-Report.pdf\">2012 study\u003c/a>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>from Oliva's Food Chain Workers Alliance and the Restaurant Opportunities Centers United found that 79 percent of food system workers did not have paid sick days or did not know if they did. Similar to the current study, the 2012 report also found that 53 percent of workers had worked when they were sick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And Oliva points to another factor in the equation: low wages. Many of the lowest-paying jobs in America are in the food industry, according to data from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.bls.gov/oes/current/oes_nat.htm#00-0000\">Bureau of Labor Statistics\u003c/a>. If workers were making a living wage, Oliva says, they might have more flexibility to take an unpaid day when needed. But for workers making minimum wage, or even the federal subminimum \"tipped\" wage of $2.13 per hour, \"You just can't,\" take an unpaid day, Oliva says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to \u003ca href=\"http://laborcenter.berkeley.edu/author/saru-jayaraman/\">Saru Jayaraman\u003c/a>, co-director of the Restaurant Opportunities Centers United and director of the Food Labor Research Center at the University of California, Berkeley, workers have other incentives to come to work sick. \"It's also that they'd actually be penalized, fired or retaliated against for taking a day off when sick,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Research that the ROCU conducted in Philadelphia, for example, showed that a third of restaurant workers in that city have worked sick because they feared retaliation if they took a day off. Jayaraman, author of the 2014 book \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Behind-Kitchen-Door-Saru-Jayaraman/dp/0801479517\">Behind the Kitchen Door\u003c/a>, says workers have told her that they've reported to duty with everything from H1N1 to pink eye and typhoid fever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One of the most egregious examples that I describe in the book is a worker at a Fayetteville, N.C., Olive Garden [who] was forced to work with hepatitis A because [Olive Garden] doesn't have an earned sick leave policy,\" Jayaraman says. As a result, Jayaraman says, 3,000 people had to be tested for hepatitis A at the Cumberland County, N.C., health department.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Four states – California, Connecticut, Massachusetts and Oregon – \u003ca href=\"http://familyvaluesatwork.org/media-center/paid-sick-days-wins\">have passed legislation\u003c/a> to provide paid sick leave, in addition to a number of cities across the country. Last month, President Obama \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2015/09/07/438354750/obama-signs-order-to-extend-contractors-paid-sick-leave\">signed an executive order\u003c/a> allowing employees of federal contractors to earn up to seven paid sick days a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some food businesses are improving their policies, too. In July, Chipotle \u003ca href=\"http://ir.chipotle.com/phoenix.zhtml?c=194775&p=irol-newsArticle&ID=2069647\">expanded\u003c/a> paid sick leave to all its employees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Jayaraman says there's still \"tremendous opposition\" to paid sick leave, from the National Restaurant Association and other industry groups. (The association did not respond to multiple requests for comment from NPR.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Update, 1:57 p.m.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The National Restaurant Association's Christin Fernandez tells The Salt that her organization \"does not want workers going into work sick. Flexible scheduling is a hallmark of the restaurant industry. If a restaurant employee is not feeling well, one of good things about the industry is that they can talk to their employer ... and work out a schedule that best fits their health needs.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/102276/survey-half-of-food-workers-go-to-work-sick-because-they-have-to","authors":["byline_bayareabites_102276"],"categories":["bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_1146","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_14800","bayareabites_11544","bayareabites_14982"],"featImg":"bayareabites_102277","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_100134":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_100134","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"100134","score":null,"sort":[1441642179000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"these-are-the-people-who-haul-our-food-across-america","title":"These Are The People Who Haul Our Food Across America","publishDate":1441642179,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Chefs may now be celebrities, farmers our food heroes, and small-batch producers worthy of culinary canonization. Yet the workers who make up one of the largest groups in the American food system rarely get a mention: truckers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When you sit down to eat at the table, give a little thought to how this food got to your house. In most cases, it's been in the back of a trailer, driven for some distance by one of America's truckers,\" says Todd Dills, senior editor of\u003ca href=\"http://www.overdriveonline.com/\"> Overdrive Magazine\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of the drivers who haul produce and livestock across the country every day are small-scale owner-operators, says Dills. The model dates back to the 1930s, he says, when farmers would haul their own product.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, even the most orthodox locavores depend on farmers who depend on truckers to bring them seeds, tools, and machinery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Truckers like\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuhS5ehMc1s\"> Cody Blankenship\u003c/a>, owner of 4BTrucking, who operates out of Waco, Texas. He grew up in a cattle family and started off hauling animals destined for steaks and burgers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says moving livestock is some of the hardest trucking work – and not just because of \"the crazy shipping hours\" or the risk of tipping over with a top-heavy, double-decker \"bull wagon\" carrying 25,000 pounds on each floor. It also requires knowing how to handle animals, he says, and understanding, for example, what might make cattle skittish and result in injury along the drive. Because if an animal gets trampled, \"you're going to pay for half of whatever you lose,\" says Blankenship.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nowadays, he tends to haul fresh produce like green beans. But that can take him a thousand miles from home. When the harvest begins, he heads to Florida to pick up, and as the season moves north, so does Blankenship, following the crop up through Maryland, Delaware, and into Pennsylvania.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That East Coast run can take this Texas driver away from his 4 and 6-year-old daughters for as long as five weeks at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which is why Blankenship says the black-eyed pea harvest closer to home is \"probably one of my favorite things to do.\" When the spring and fall crops are ready, Blankenship hauls the Southern delicacy from south Texas, near Corpus Christi, to the cannery in Arkansas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_100136\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/image3.jpg_custom-1b3d0450b1135169a2362ea273dc7018ad9171a7-e1441574798889.jpe\" alt=\"Blankenship says truckers like him who move food and livestock spend a lot of time "out in the country, and out in the middle of nowhere, so you've got to be prepared and a little self-sufficient."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1439\" class=\"size-full wp-image-100136\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Blankenship says truckers like him who move food and livestock spend a lot of time \"out in the country, and out in the middle of nowhere, so you've got to be prepared and a little self-sufficient.\" \u003ccite>(Courtesy Cody Blankenship )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Among his various customers, Blankenship logs about a hundred thousand miles a year — the average for owner-operators. But hauling food is a very different life, he says, from the image most Americans have of truckers, of the \"guys that run from the major cities down the interstate where they can stop at a truck stop.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because they're moving farm goods, he says, \"we're out in the country, and out in the middle of nowhere, so you've got to be prepared and a little self-sufficient.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And trucking requires driving big machines in some pretty tight spots in remote places, says \u003ca href=\"http://www.lnstrucking.com/\">Larry Frick\u003c/a>. He hauls so much for the maple syrup industry in the U.S. and Canada that he's known as the \"Maple Shipping King.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I got to go a mile-and-a-half on a logging trail to get the maple syrup picked up in Vermont with a 50-foot trailer,\" Frick says. And then \"there's another one in West Virginia, where I go seven-and-a-half miles on a little one-lane road.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Salt caught up with Frick just after he'd finished a drop in Ohio. When I ask about his day, he begins by saying, \"It started last night.\" He left Wausau, Wis., where his company, L&S Trucking, is based, and drove 300 miles to Chicago for two pick-ups. As we talk, he's on his way to New York, then up to Vermont, where he'll reload with cargo headed back to Wisconsin before going south just over the Massachusetts border, where he'll pick up loads to drop in New York, Ohio and Michigan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This kind of schedule means time is a problem for a long-distance trucker. Not the hours sitting alone in the cab, but the hours wasted while waiting on unprepared clients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because owner-operators are typically paid based on a percentage or by the mile, not by the hour, \"there is no financial incentive for those who ship or receive a truck to make efficient use of that driver's time,\" says Norita Taylor of the\u003ca href=\"http://www.ooida.com/\"> Owner-Operator Independent Drivers Association\u003c/a>. So truckers, she says, \"are treated like rolling warehouses\" and are often kept waiting hours on end at loading docks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_100137\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/image6.jpg_custom-2bbf93f580eb89a88f5021cbebd095ad7d9ceaac-e1441574855128.jpe\" alt=\"Blankenship started out moving livestock, some of the hardest work in trucking. These days he tends to haul fresh produce like this load of green beans.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1425\" class=\"size-full wp-image-100137\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Blankenship started out moving livestock, some of the hardest work in trucking. These days he tends to haul fresh produce like this load of green beans. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Cody Blankenship )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As a safety measure, f\u003ca href=\"http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/regulations/hours-service/summary-hours-service-regulations\">ederal regulations\u003c/a> require drivers to work no more than 14 hours in a 24-hours period before taking a 10-hour break. And once the clock starts ticking, it doesn't stop, so sitting and waiting eats into the drive time, and that eats into the profits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Blankenship, \"Trucking is not a 9-to-5 job. It's really a 24-hour operation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which makes Labor Day just another day for drivers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'll be working all weekend,\" says Frick. \"I probably won't get home until Monday night or Tuesday. And then I've got to get back out East straight away.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He does, however, hope to be doing his own holiday grilling — using the George Foreman inside his truck cab.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Anne Bramley, a writer and independent scholar based in Norwich, U.K., is the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.powells.com/biblio/6-9781584797197-2\">Eat Feed Autumn Winter\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Farmers, chefs and small-batch producers get a lot of praise these days. Truckers are rarely mentioned — yet most of the food that ends up on our dinner tables depends on their labor.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1441730746,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":25,"wordCount":993},"headData":{"title":"These Are The People Who Haul Our Food Across America | KQED","description":"Farmers, chefs and small-batch producers get a lot of praise these days. Truckers are rarely mentioned — yet most of the food that ends up on our dinner tables depends on their labor.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"These Are The People Who Haul Our Food Across America","datePublished":"2015-09-07T16:09:39.000Z","dateModified":"2015-09-08T16:45:46.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"100134 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=100134","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/09/07/these-are-the-people-who-haul-our-food-across-america/","disqusTitle":"These Are The People Who Haul Our Food Across America","nprByline":"Anne Bramley, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprStoryId":"437308936","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=437308936&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/09/05/437308936/these-are-the-people-who-haul-our-food-across-america?ft=nprml&f=437308936","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Sat, 05 Sep 2015 07:03:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Sat, 05 Sep 2015 07:03:35 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Sat, 05 Sep 2015 07:03:35 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/100134/these-are-the-people-who-haul-our-food-across-america","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Chefs may now be celebrities, farmers our food heroes, and small-batch producers worthy of culinary canonization. Yet the workers who make up one of the largest groups in the American food system rarely get a mention: truckers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When you sit down to eat at the table, give a little thought to how this food got to your house. In most cases, it's been in the back of a trailer, driven for some distance by one of America's truckers,\" says Todd Dills, senior editor of\u003ca href=\"http://www.overdriveonline.com/\"> Overdrive Magazine\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of the drivers who haul produce and livestock across the country every day are small-scale owner-operators, says Dills. The model dates back to the 1930s, he says, when farmers would haul their own product.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, even the most orthodox locavores depend on farmers who depend on truckers to bring them seeds, tools, and machinery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Truckers like\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuhS5ehMc1s\"> Cody Blankenship\u003c/a>, owner of 4BTrucking, who operates out of Waco, Texas. He grew up in a cattle family and started off hauling animals destined for steaks and burgers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says moving livestock is some of the hardest trucking work – and not just because of \"the crazy shipping hours\" or the risk of tipping over with a top-heavy, double-decker \"bull wagon\" carrying 25,000 pounds on each floor. It also requires knowing how to handle animals, he says, and understanding, for example, what might make cattle skittish and result in injury along the drive. Because if an animal gets trampled, \"you're going to pay for half of whatever you lose,\" says Blankenship.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nowadays, he tends to haul fresh produce like green beans. But that can take him a thousand miles from home. When the harvest begins, he heads to Florida to pick up, and as the season moves north, so does Blankenship, following the crop up through Maryland, Delaware, and into Pennsylvania.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That East Coast run can take this Texas driver away from his 4 and 6-year-old daughters for as long as five weeks at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which is why Blankenship says the black-eyed pea harvest closer to home is \"probably one of my favorite things to do.\" When the spring and fall crops are ready, Blankenship hauls the Southern delicacy from south Texas, near Corpus Christi, to the cannery in Arkansas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_100136\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/image3.jpg_custom-1b3d0450b1135169a2362ea273dc7018ad9171a7-e1441574798889.jpe\" alt=\"Blankenship says truckers like him who move food and livestock spend a lot of time "out in the country, and out in the middle of nowhere, so you've got to be prepared and a little self-sufficient."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1439\" class=\"size-full wp-image-100136\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Blankenship says truckers like him who move food and livestock spend a lot of time \"out in the country, and out in the middle of nowhere, so you've got to be prepared and a little self-sufficient.\" \u003ccite>(Courtesy Cody Blankenship )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Among his various customers, Blankenship logs about a hundred thousand miles a year — the average for owner-operators. But hauling food is a very different life, he says, from the image most Americans have of truckers, of the \"guys that run from the major cities down the interstate where they can stop at a truck stop.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because they're moving farm goods, he says, \"we're out in the country, and out in the middle of nowhere, so you've got to be prepared and a little self-sufficient.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And trucking requires driving big machines in some pretty tight spots in remote places, says \u003ca href=\"http://www.lnstrucking.com/\">Larry Frick\u003c/a>. He hauls so much for the maple syrup industry in the U.S. and Canada that he's known as the \"Maple Shipping King.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I got to go a mile-and-a-half on a logging trail to get the maple syrup picked up in Vermont with a 50-foot trailer,\" Frick says. And then \"there's another one in West Virginia, where I go seven-and-a-half miles on a little one-lane road.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Salt caught up with Frick just after he'd finished a drop in Ohio. When I ask about his day, he begins by saying, \"It started last night.\" He left Wausau, Wis., where his company, L&S Trucking, is based, and drove 300 miles to Chicago for two pick-ups. As we talk, he's on his way to New York, then up to Vermont, where he'll reload with cargo headed back to Wisconsin before going south just over the Massachusetts border, where he'll pick up loads to drop in New York, Ohio and Michigan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This kind of schedule means time is a problem for a long-distance trucker. Not the hours sitting alone in the cab, but the hours wasted while waiting on unprepared clients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because owner-operators are typically paid based on a percentage or by the mile, not by the hour, \"there is no financial incentive for those who ship or receive a truck to make efficient use of that driver's time,\" says Norita Taylor of the\u003ca href=\"http://www.ooida.com/\"> Owner-Operator Independent Drivers Association\u003c/a>. So truckers, she says, \"are treated like rolling warehouses\" and are often kept waiting hours on end at loading docks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_100137\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/image6.jpg_custom-2bbf93f580eb89a88f5021cbebd095ad7d9ceaac-e1441574855128.jpe\" alt=\"Blankenship started out moving livestock, some of the hardest work in trucking. These days he tends to haul fresh produce like this load of green beans.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1425\" class=\"size-full wp-image-100137\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Blankenship started out moving livestock, some of the hardest work in trucking. These days he tends to haul fresh produce like this load of green beans. \u003ccite>(Courtesy Cody Blankenship )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As a safety measure, f\u003ca href=\"http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/regulations/hours-service/summary-hours-service-regulations\">ederal regulations\u003c/a> require drivers to work no more than 14 hours in a 24-hours period before taking a 10-hour break. And once the clock starts ticking, it doesn't stop, so sitting and waiting eats into the drive time, and that eats into the profits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Blankenship, \"Trucking is not a 9-to-5 job. It's really a 24-hour operation.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which makes Labor Day just another day for drivers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'll be working all weekend,\" says Frick. \"I probably won't get home until Monday night or Tuesday. And then I've got to get back out East straight away.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He does, however, hope to be doing his own holiday grilling — using the George Foreman inside his truck cab.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Anne Bramley, a writer and independent scholar based in Norwich, U.K., is the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.powells.com/biblio/6-9781584797197-2\">Eat Feed Autumn Winter\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/100134/these-are-the-people-who-haul-our-food-across-america","authors":["byline_bayareabites_100134"],"categories":["bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_13636","bayareabites_14799","bayareabites_14800","bayareabites_14798"],"featImg":"bayareabites_100135","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. 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Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. 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But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.","airtime":"THU 10pm, FRI 1am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Commonwealth Club of California"},"link":"/radio/program/commonwealth-club","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Commonwealth-Club-of-California-p1060/"}},"considerthis":{"id":"considerthis","title":"Consider This","tagline":"Make sense of the day","info":"Make sense of the day. Every weekday afternoon, Consider This helps you consider the major stories of the day in less than 15 minutes, featuring the reporting and storytelling resources of NPR. 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