After WWII, Mutton Fell Out Of Favor In The U.S. Can It Make A Comeback?
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Yum Yum Sauce: The Making Of An American Condiment
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Ancient Japanese Food Craft Brings Persimmons To American Palates
How A 19th Century Chemist Took On The Food Industry With A Grisly Experiment
How Suffragists Used Cookbooks As A Recipe For Subversion
Natural GMO? Sweet Potato Genetically Modified 8,000 Years Ago
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Window.\"","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/c4b735bb26404fa18ce2447d32e64291?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"nprfood","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"NPR Food | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/c4b735bb26404fa18ce2447d32e64291?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/c4b735bb26404fa18ce2447d32e64291?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/nprfood"},"lisalanders":{"type":"authors","id":"5412","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5412","found":true},"name":"Lisa Landers","firstName":"Lisa","lastName":"Landers","slug":"lisalanders","email":"llanders@KQED.org","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Lisa Landers is a producer and writer whose work includes documentaries, museum exhibitions, and educational multimedia. Her work has covered a diversity of subject matter including natural history, ecological and social issues, cultural exploration, food, music, and architecture. She’s developed and produced films for broadcasters such as National Geographic, Smithsonian Channel, and the Discovery Channel. Her work as an exhibition developer and multimedia producer has been featured at institutions including the American Museum of Natural History, the National Building Museum, and The Tech Museum. Her writing has also appeared in a wide variety of print and online publications.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/1e4aa08f6f0a92ea11a2779a453cb36d?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"quest","roles":["leadcoordinator","edit_theme_options","subscriber"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Lisa Landers | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/1e4aa08f6f0a92ea11a2779a453cb36d?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/1e4aa08f6f0a92ea11a2779a453cb36d?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/lisalanders"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_135723":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_135723","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"135723","score":null,"sort":[1574875719000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"after-wwii-mutton-fell-out-of-favor-in-the-u-s-can-it-make-a-comeback","title":"After WWII, Mutton Fell Out Of Favor In The U.S. Can It Make A Comeback?","publishDate":1574875719,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>When D'Abruzzo opened its first food kiosk in New York City's Bryant Park a few years ago, I dashed over to taste the Italian mountainous region's trademark mutton arrosticini and capture photographic proof of its existence in America, as this is not a dish often seen on our shores.\u003cbr>\n[aside tag='npr-food' num='2' label='More NPR Stories on KQED']\u003cbr>\nThanks to D'Abruzzo, hundreds, maybe thousands, of Americans would be able to sample the region's savory, salted, grilled sheep-meat-on-a-stick that is cooked with passion in Abruzzo, on its own specialized grill, called \u003cem>la furnacell\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Moments after posting photos of D'Abruzzo's arrosticini and its menu on Facebook, responses from Abruzzese friends and family came flooding in. They were excited. Proud.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>One of us — in Manhattan!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They were also uniformly thrown into a state of irascibility over one unforgivable sin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They use lamb, not mutton!\" venomously typed my Abruzzese friend, Ugo Budani, from 4,000 miles away. \"There can be no substitute!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I should note that D'Abruzzo's lamb arrosticini tastes like heaven on a stick. But that's beside the point: On this side of the Atlantic, \u003cem>not \u003c/em>having a substitute for mutton in eateries could be professional suicide — because sheep meat never got a fighting chance in the United States.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It is close to impossible to even find mutton in the U.S.,\" says Ken Albala, professor of history at California's University of the Pacific. \"It costs more to raise sheep for longer periods of time, and the decline in wool production in the U.S. is directly related to the decline in mutton as a culinary delicacy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That wasn't always the case. Old restaurant menus from the New York Public Library archives tell a different tale about mutton's desirability. A 1915 menu from Fraunces Tavern in New York City offered broiled English mutton chops with baked potatoes for $1.50 — 25 cents more than the price of its roast spring lamb. First-class passengers on the \u003cem>RMS Titanic\u003c/em> were served grilled mutton chops, while spring lamb was reserved for second class. And, at Keens Chophouse in NYC in 1941, the English mutton chop, kidney, sausage and bacon cost $1.61, just 60 cents less than its pricey filet mignon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In the early 1900s there were 237 menus with mutton,\" says Keens Steakhouse manager Bonnie Jenkins. \"But after World War II, people were celebrating. They were forced to eat mutton during war time and they wanted to get away from it. You don't see it on menus in the 1950s and '60s.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Mutton: a casualty of war\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Few foods suffered quite the same public relations calamity as a result of war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"U.S. GI's were fed canned Australian mutton, which by all accounts was just awful,\" says Bob Kennard, author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.muchadoaboutmutton.com/\">Much Ado About Mutton\u003c/a>. Wherever he travels, the Welsh mutton expert says he hears a similar story: \"I am told that someone's uncle or father came home from the war and wouldn't allow sheep meat in the house — they never wanted to see it again. It just went completely out of fashion.\"\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='news_11788566' align='left']\u003cbr>\nThe fact that mutton ever even rose to the ranks of high culinary fashion in the U.S. is nothing short of a miracle. The infamous sheep and cattle wars that took place in Western states like Texas, Arizona, Colorado and Wyoming between 1870 and 1920 threatened to bring the sheep industry to its knees. Shepherds, who were generally Native American or Latin American, required a free range and plenty of grass, which often left cattle subsiding on weeds and fighting for the same territory. Cattle farmers, who benefited from the support of government officials, viewed sheep as invaders. Armed conflicts ensued, leading to the slaughter of sheep — and men.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to the 1934 Taylor Grazing Act that regulated grazing on public land, shepherds and cattlemen could peacefully co-exist. But the fact that burgers — and not mutton chops — are served at every diner in America tells you all you need to know about who won the war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The development of railroads and refrigerated railroad cars also meant that beef could be shipped all over the country, says Sarah Wassberg Johnson, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.thefoodhistorian.com/\">food historian\u003c/a>. \"Once livestock husbandry began to become more and more specialized in the United States and people were no longer subsistence producers, mutton was relegated to more regional status — the purview of shepherds culling stock, rather than John Doe consumers in Chicago or New York City buying from the butcher,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135732\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-135732 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-800x449.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"449\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-800x449.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-768x431.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-1020x573.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15.jpg 1100w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Millennials and more experimental diners might be open to eating mutton. \u003ccite>(Robert Nickelsberg/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Slow meat in a fast-paced world\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Even if sheep had come out as victors, our faster paced post-war lifestyle — a shift from butcher shops to grocery stores, wool clothing to polyester blends, and an increase in women leaving kitchens and entering workplaces — may not have supported mutton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mutton is a high-maintenance meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You've got to cook mutton long and slow, which makes it less tough,\" Kennard says. \"A leg of mutton takes 25 minutes a pound to cook.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that's assuming you can even find mutton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In countries like the U.K., lamb meat comes from sheep aged up to 1 year, hogget from animals 1 to 2 years old, and true mutton from those 2 years and older. It's worth noting that Kennard says these categories are purely unofficial, but are what are generally accepted. There is no legal definition, apart from that of lamb. But the U.S. is limited in its categories and the majority of sheep butchered is what the U.K. would consider hogget — the U.S. doesn't recognize the difference between hogget and mutton, according to Eugenie McGuire, who breeds Black Welsh Mountain sheep at \u003ca href=\"http://desertweyr.com/\">Desert Weyr\u003c/a> ranch in Colorado.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_134870']\u003cbr>\nKeens Steakhouse (formerly known as Keens Chophouse), one of the few traditional restaurants that serves what they refer to as a mutton chop, purchases older lambs aged 10 months to one year, and usually a bit older, says Jenkins. While not considered mutton by U.K. standards, the taste of a 10-month-old lamb is still very different than that of a 6- to 8-month-old spring lamb.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The quest to score actual mutton is tricky. The meat is popular among Navajo and Pueblo peoples, is often used in Pakistani, South African and Indian curry dishes, and can be found at small suppliers like Apple Creek Farm in Maine, which sells rosemary mutton sausage.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>A hard find\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Outside of farms and niche markets, mutton still poses unique challenges. To create a tender meat, it needs to be hung in a cold room that allows its enzymes to break down. When supermarkets took over meat production, they weren't eager to hang meat because it's money in the fridge, Kennard says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McGuire, who owns a modest farm, says she pays more than $150 per sheep just to have it processed, and that a severe lack of infrastructure to support sheep farming is to blame for why the meat is so expensive to maintain and ship. A local brewery buys her mutton to make a sausage dish affectionately called Baahwurst, but a local upscale chef, also a buyer, labels his \"lamb\"on menus. Despite the popularity of the dish, McGuire says customers can't get past the label \"mutton.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Millennials and more experimental diners on both coasts might be open to eating mutton, McGuire says, but when one high-end restaurant in New York City purchased her USDA-inspected mutton, it \"cost a bloody fortune to ship — three times the cost of other meat.\" Mutton must be shipped overnight and packed in dry ice, and the additional costs, McGuire explains, include a Hazmat charge on top of an overnight shipping charge.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>A mutton revival on the horizon?\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Still, McGuire, Kennard and other champions for mutton say the meat has a lot to offer and that rebranding, re-education and investment in small processing plants are needed to create new buzz around the industry. In the U.K., where the Mutton Renaissance Campaign was founded by Prince Charles, those efforts include a push to categorize mutton by location and breed. In the U.S., farmers like McGuire are also eager to differentiate between breeds and diet (grass-fed mutton is tastier, according to experts), while celebrity butchers like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/adam_danforth/?hl=en\">Adam Danforth\u003c/a> are using social media to impart knowledge on the delicious benefits of dry-aging sheep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Danforth, Americans have been informed, told, reminded and marketed by a commercial industry that tenderness is the ultimate characteristic of good meat, and he calls it a ploy that plays into their model — because tenderness comes from the opposite conditions that flavor does. Mutton is neither tough nor gamey, he argues, and is a superior eating experience to lamb. \"In fact, lamb these days is more and more being developed to taste less like the species of sheep and more like beef to better appeal to the mainstream,\" Danforth says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mutton's best days may actually be ahead of us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Good mutton is like the best steak you've ever had,\" McGuire says. \"The biggest problem is getting people to try it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lisa Fogarty is a freelance writer from New York who covers food, health and culture. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/11/26/781652195/after-wwii-mutton-fell-out-of-favor-in-the-u-s-can-it-make-a-comeback\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":" Once the stuff of high-end cuisine, mutton consumption tanked thanks to competition from the cattle industry and GIs fed up with rations. Fans say it's time to re-embrace this underappreciated meat. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1585418046,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":30,"wordCount":1604},"headData":{"title":"After WWII, Mutton Fell Out Of Favor In The U.S. Can It Make A Comeback? | KQED","description":" Once the stuff of high-end cuisine, mutton consumption tanked thanks to competition from the cattle industry and GIs fed up with rations. Fans say it's time to re-embrace this underappreciated meat. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"135723 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=135723","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/11/27/after-wwii-mutton-fell-out-of-favor-in-the-u-s-can-it-make-a-comeback/","disqusTitle":"After WWII, Mutton Fell Out Of Favor In The U.S. Can It Make A Comeback?","nprImageCredit":"Robert Nickelsberg","nprByline":"Lisa Fogarty, NPR Food","nprImageAgency":"Getty Images","nprStoryId":"781652195","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=781652195&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/11/26/781652195/after-wwii-mutton-fell-out-of-favor-in-the-u-s-can-it-make-a-comeback?ft=nprml&f=781652195","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 26 Nov 2019 10:37:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 26 Nov 2019 10:35:05 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 26 Nov 2019 10:37:58 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/135723/after-wwii-mutton-fell-out-of-favor-in-the-u-s-can-it-make-a-comeback","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When D'Abruzzo opened its first food kiosk in New York City's Bryant Park a few years ago, I dashed over to taste the Italian mountainous region's trademark mutton arrosticini and capture photographic proof of its existence in America, as this is not a dish often seen on our shores.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"npr-food","num":"2","label":"More NPR Stories on KQED "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nThanks to D'Abruzzo, hundreds, maybe thousands, of Americans would be able to sample the region's savory, salted, grilled sheep-meat-on-a-stick that is cooked with passion in Abruzzo, on its own specialized grill, called \u003cem>la furnacell\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Moments after posting photos of D'Abruzzo's arrosticini and its menu on Facebook, responses from Abruzzese friends and family came flooding in. They were excited. Proud.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>One of us — in Manhattan!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They were also uniformly thrown into a state of irascibility over one unforgivable sin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They use lamb, not mutton!\" venomously typed my Abruzzese friend, Ugo Budani, from 4,000 miles away. \"There can be no substitute!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I should note that D'Abruzzo's lamb arrosticini tastes like heaven on a stick. But that's beside the point: On this side of the Atlantic, \u003cem>not \u003c/em>having a substitute for mutton in eateries could be professional suicide — because sheep meat never got a fighting chance in the United States.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It is close to impossible to even find mutton in the U.S.,\" says Ken Albala, professor of history at California's University of the Pacific. \"It costs more to raise sheep for longer periods of time, and the decline in wool production in the U.S. is directly related to the decline in mutton as a culinary delicacy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That wasn't always the case. Old restaurant menus from the New York Public Library archives tell a different tale about mutton's desirability. A 1915 menu from Fraunces Tavern in New York City offered broiled English mutton chops with baked potatoes for $1.50 — 25 cents more than the price of its roast spring lamb. First-class passengers on the \u003cem>RMS Titanic\u003c/em> were served grilled mutton chops, while spring lamb was reserved for second class. And, at Keens Chophouse in NYC in 1941, the English mutton chop, kidney, sausage and bacon cost $1.61, just 60 cents less than its pricey filet mignon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In the early 1900s there were 237 menus with mutton,\" says Keens Steakhouse manager Bonnie Jenkins. \"But after World War II, people were celebrating. They were forced to eat mutton during war time and they wanted to get away from it. You don't see it on menus in the 1950s and '60s.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Mutton: a casualty of war\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Few foods suffered quite the same public relations calamity as a result of war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"U.S. GI's were fed canned Australian mutton, which by all accounts was just awful,\" says Bob Kennard, author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.muchadoaboutmutton.com/\">Much Ado About Mutton\u003c/a>. Wherever he travels, the Welsh mutton expert says he hears a similar story: \"I am told that someone's uncle or father came home from the war and wouldn't allow sheep meat in the house — they never wanted to see it again. It just went completely out of fashion.\"\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"news_11788566","align":"left","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nThe fact that mutton ever even rose to the ranks of high culinary fashion in the U.S. is nothing short of a miracle. The infamous sheep and cattle wars that took place in Western states like Texas, Arizona, Colorado and Wyoming between 1870 and 1920 threatened to bring the sheep industry to its knees. Shepherds, who were generally Native American or Latin American, required a free range and plenty of grass, which often left cattle subsiding on weeds and fighting for the same territory. Cattle farmers, who benefited from the support of government officials, viewed sheep as invaders. Armed conflicts ensued, leading to the slaughter of sheep — and men.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to the 1934 Taylor Grazing Act that regulated grazing on public land, shepherds and cattlemen could peacefully co-exist. But the fact that burgers — and not mutton chops — are served at every diner in America tells you all you need to know about who won the war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The development of railroads and refrigerated railroad cars also meant that beef could be shipped all over the country, says Sarah Wassberg Johnson, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.thefoodhistorian.com/\">food historian\u003c/a>. \"Once livestock husbandry began to become more and more specialized in the United States and people were no longer subsistence producers, mutton was relegated to more regional status — the purview of shepherds culling stock, rather than John Doe consumers in Chicago or New York City buying from the butcher,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135732\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-135732 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-800x449.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"449\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-800x449.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-768x431.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15-1020x573.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mutton1_wide-beba25933c16ea876de444e3218f4eeb4b178dc4-s1100-c15.jpg 1100w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Millennials and more experimental diners might be open to eating mutton. \u003ccite>(Robert Nickelsberg/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Slow meat in a fast-paced world\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Even if sheep had come out as victors, our faster paced post-war lifestyle — a shift from butcher shops to grocery stores, wool clothing to polyester blends, and an increase in women leaving kitchens and entering workplaces — may not have supported mutton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mutton is a high-maintenance meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You've got to cook mutton long and slow, which makes it less tough,\" Kennard says. \"A leg of mutton takes 25 minutes a pound to cook.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that's assuming you can even find mutton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In countries like the U.K., lamb meat comes from sheep aged up to 1 year, hogget from animals 1 to 2 years old, and true mutton from those 2 years and older. It's worth noting that Kennard says these categories are purely unofficial, but are what are generally accepted. There is no legal definition, apart from that of lamb. But the U.S. is limited in its categories and the majority of sheep butchered is what the U.K. would consider hogget — the U.S. doesn't recognize the difference between hogget and mutton, according to Eugenie McGuire, who breeds Black Welsh Mountain sheep at \u003ca href=\"http://desertweyr.com/\">Desert Weyr\u003c/a> ranch in Colorado.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_134870","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nKeens Steakhouse (formerly known as Keens Chophouse), one of the few traditional restaurants that serves what they refer to as a mutton chop, purchases older lambs aged 10 months to one year, and usually a bit older, says Jenkins. While not considered mutton by U.K. standards, the taste of a 10-month-old lamb is still very different than that of a 6- to 8-month-old spring lamb.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The quest to score actual mutton is tricky. The meat is popular among Navajo and Pueblo peoples, is often used in Pakistani, South African and Indian curry dishes, and can be found at small suppliers like Apple Creek Farm in Maine, which sells rosemary mutton sausage.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>A hard find\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Outside of farms and niche markets, mutton still poses unique challenges. To create a tender meat, it needs to be hung in a cold room that allows its enzymes to break down. When supermarkets took over meat production, they weren't eager to hang meat because it's money in the fridge, Kennard says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>McGuire, who owns a modest farm, says she pays more than $150 per sheep just to have it processed, and that a severe lack of infrastructure to support sheep farming is to blame for why the meat is so expensive to maintain and ship. A local brewery buys her mutton to make a sausage dish affectionately called Baahwurst, but a local upscale chef, also a buyer, labels his \"lamb\"on menus. Despite the popularity of the dish, McGuire says customers can't get past the label \"mutton.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Millennials and more experimental diners on both coasts might be open to eating mutton, McGuire says, but when one high-end restaurant in New York City purchased her USDA-inspected mutton, it \"cost a bloody fortune to ship — three times the cost of other meat.\" Mutton must be shipped overnight and packed in dry ice, and the additional costs, McGuire explains, include a Hazmat charge on top of an overnight shipping charge.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>A mutton revival on the horizon?\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Still, McGuire, Kennard and other champions for mutton say the meat has a lot to offer and that rebranding, re-education and investment in small processing plants are needed to create new buzz around the industry. In the U.K., where the Mutton Renaissance Campaign was founded by Prince Charles, those efforts include a push to categorize mutton by location and breed. In the U.S., farmers like McGuire are also eager to differentiate between breeds and diet (grass-fed mutton is tastier, according to experts), while celebrity butchers like \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/adam_danforth/?hl=en\">Adam Danforth\u003c/a> are using social media to impart knowledge on the delicious benefits of dry-aging sheep.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Danforth, Americans have been informed, told, reminded and marketed by a commercial industry that tenderness is the ultimate characteristic of good meat, and he calls it a ploy that plays into their model — because tenderness comes from the opposite conditions that flavor does. Mutton is neither tough nor gamey, he argues, and is a superior eating experience to lamb. \"In fact, lamb these days is more and more being developed to taste less like the species of sheep and more like beef to better appeal to the mainstream,\" Danforth says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mutton's best days may actually be ahead of us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Good mutton is like the best steak you've ever had,\" McGuire says. \"The biggest problem is getting people to try it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lisa Fogarty is a freelance writer from New York who covers food, health and culture. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/11/26/781652195/after-wwii-mutton-fell-out-of-favor-in-the-u-s-can-it-make-a-comeback\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/135723/after-wwii-mutton-fell-out-of-favor-in-the-u-s-can-it-make-a-comeback","authors":["byline_bayareabites_135723"],"categories":["bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_1608","bayareabites_16507","bayareabites_16272"],"featImg":"bayareabites_136577","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_134764":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_134764","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"134764","score":null,"sort":[1568750178000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-spirit-of-innovation-still-thrives-in-the-good-old-kitchen-hack","title":"The Spirit Of Innovation Still Thrives In The Good Old Kitchen Hack","publishDate":1568750178,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_134687,bayareabites_133932' target=_ label='More Food History']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year marks 300 years since the publication of Daniel Defoe's blockbuster novel \u003cem>Robinson Crusoe. \u003c/em>And while its hero is rightly hailed as fiction's most famous castaway, he can just as equally stake his claim to another — more culinary — title.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Robinson Crusoe: patron saint of the kitchen hack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the man who grew, ground and baked his own organic, artisanal bread from scratch — with nary a Kitchenaid mixer in sight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an age when we are drowning in kitchen gizmos — whether it's a waterwheel-shaped device to cube a watermelon or a pint-sized mill to mince your herbs or a steel pot with buttons that promises Michelin magic — it's inspiring to recall the Herculean story of Crusoe's bread making and celebrate the kind of ingenuity it embodies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shipwrecked on a deserted island, Crusoe has no plow, no scythe, no threshing floor, no mill, no sieve, no oven. No problem. Driven by desperation, he comes up with tools and methods to turn his precious store of corn into freshly baked loaves: a bough of a tree is his harrow and a cutlass his scythe; he uses his bare hands to rub the kernels from the ears for want of a threshing floor; a mortar and pestle scooped from tree wood serve as a mill; calico and muslin neckcloths retrieved from his ship sift the coarse meal; and as for an oven — that seemingly insurmountable hurdle — rough clay pans handcrafted by him work just fine. This is jerry-riggery at its finest, and results in what to him is the most delicious loaf of bread in the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1838px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035.jpg\" alt=\"Robinson Crusoe cooked with whatever was available.\" width=\"1838\" height=\"2451\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134766\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035.jpg 1838w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1838px) 100vw, 1838px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Robinson Crusoe cooked with whatever was available. \u003ccite>(Buyenlarge/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Crusoe spirit is hardly unique. Throughout history, cooks across cultures have invented ways to overcome a lack of conventional cooking tools. This is especially true in conditions of war, captivity, scarcity – and student housing\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>America may be the cradle of the pointless gizmo but it is also the land, as food historian Frederick Opie reminds us, of the hoe cake — those crisp discs of cornbread supposedly named after the blade of the hoe on which they were baked by enslaved men and women forced to work the cotton fields of the South. \"They simply cleaned off their hoes, poured batter on it and baked their bread,\" says Opie. \"They were also known to use clam and oyster shells as knives; they sharpened them and used them to cut and grate vegetables.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vessels were scarce, but the humble gourd proved wonderfully versatile. In his memoir \u003ca href=\"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/45631/45631-h/45631-h.htm\">\u003cem>Twelve Years a Slave\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, Solomon Northup sings its praise for dispensing \"with the necessity of pails, dippers, basins, and such tin and wooden superfluities altogether.\" During WWI, the Salvation Army women sent to France as part of the war effort \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/06/07/189514005/on-national-doughnut-day-free-food-and-feel-good-history\">churned out thousands of donuts for the GIs\u003c/a>, initially using shell casings for rolling pins and helmets filled with lard to fry braided crullers. They were a sensation with the soldiers, who dubbed them the \"Donut Lassies.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This spirit of innovation was recently saluted by food critic Ruth Reichl in a piece for \u003cem>Real Simple \u003c/em>magazine, where she called out the Great American Kitchen, with its \"battery of arcane appliances,\" as something of a hoax. (\"Utter nonsense\" was how she politely put it.) Reichl joyously recalled how she and her husband made do when they were young and penniless: a bottle of cheap wine was used to roll out pastry and — charmingly — discarded ceramic flower pots were called into service to bake cakes and bread. Theirs was a small, dishwasher-free kitchen with scavenged pallets for counters, but one full of music and happiness, hungry friends and good meals. \"I'm convinced I invented the microplane,\" Reichl jokes. \"When I needed to grate Parmesan, I riffled through my husband's tool box and borrowed his rasp.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Southern cooking legend Edna Lewis would have smiled in approval. Ingenuity and thrift were values she was raised on, growing up as she did during the Depression on a farm in Freetown, Va., a town established by emancipated slaves. When she died in 2006, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2006/02/14/us/edna-lewis-89-dies-wrote-cookbooks-that-revived-refined-southern-cuisine.html\">New York Times obituary\u003c/a> noted, \"Without fancy cooking equipment, the family improvised, measuring baking powder on coins.\" Nothing was bought from the store if something at home could do the job. Buying specialized jelly bags (used to strain fruit for jelly-making) was out of the question. \"I always use the washed and bleached-out bags that Virginia hams come in, and you can also use the bags that hold popcorn rice,\" Lewis writes in \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Pursuit-Flavor-Edna-Lewis/dp/0525655514/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=in+pursuit+of+flavor&qid=1568319551&s=books&sr=1-1\">\u003cem>In Pursuit of Flavor\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. \"Just wash them well and hang them in the sun to dry and bleach.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lewis also described how, even in the summer, meat could be kept cold in a contraption called a \"spring box\":\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\"Because we had no electricity, fresh meat was not refrigerated, but we could store it and other perishables for a few days in the spring box, even during the hottest weeks of the summer. The spring box was a covered wooden box set over the run-off stream from the spring. It had holes in both ends so that a tiny trickle of cold, clear spring water passed through it and kept any food stored inside perfectly cold ... My aunt, who had a well for water rather than a spring, would put food in the bucket and keep it cold by lowering it down the well.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\"I love the Edna Lewis story about refrigeration,\" says Nashville baker and author Anne Byrn, who has improvised all her life. \"I have used a sharp paring knife to cut slivers of lemon zest when there's no zester on a photo shoot, and I know the visual tests for candy making in case there's no thermometer around,\" she says. \"This has completely frustrated my husband, John, a lover of gadgets, especially because I tossed out his red plastic shrimp deveiner when we were first married. I thought, Who needs this when you've got a sharp paring knife? ... But, I bought him a replacement!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In her book \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/American-Cake-Colonial-Gingerbread-Best-Loved/dp/1623365430/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=american+cake&qid=1568319514&s=books&sr=1-1\">\u003cem>American Cake\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>,\u003c/em> Byrn notes that Shaker women used peach twigs to whisk egg whites in the forlorn hope that it would impart a peachy flavor to the meringue. \"The Shakers were truly innovative as well as minimalists,\" she says. \"They cared for nature, and it's no small coincidence that their contribution to cooking has been the lemon pie in which you use the entire lemon.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Byrn's forthcoming book, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Skillet-Love-Steak-Recipes-Cast-Iron/dp/1538763184\">Skillet Love\u003c/a>, is a tribute to the pan that does everything. \"It's perfect for people who like to improvise and are gadget-weary. It can pound chicken flat into cutlets. And now it is my new go-to pan for baking cakes. A pound cake baked in a cast-iron skillet has a crunchy exterior and the most tender interior crumb. And oh ... while we're talking about baking, cooks used tin cans to stamp out biscuits and cookies. Which is why tin cookie cutters cut the best! \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Empty tins are a hacker's best friend. Ask the renowned chef of Italian food, Lidia Bastianich. \"For baking, I always have four empty tomato cans, cleaned, and I use them to prop up a hot baking sheet coming out of the oven to cool,\" she says. For British chef Jamie Oliver, \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/dec/02/chefs-favourite-kitchen-gadgets-equipment\">an empty jam jar\u003c/a> is his gadget \u003cem>du jour\u003c/em>. \"Super-cheap and super-useful, for anything from salad dressings and salsas to storing pulses and spices.\" One more use for the jam jar? It's the hipster's vessel of choice for drinking over-hopped, overpriced craft beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another fertile nursery of innovation is the prison. \"I've done recent work with prisoners and have been simply amazed by the things they come up with,\" says Opie, who has a fascinating podcast called \u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/fredopieshow/part-2-joint-gensius-prison-pop-ups-and-moonshine\">\u003cem>Joint Genius, Prison Pop Ups and Moonshine\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/fredopieshow/part-2-joint-gensius-prison-pop-ups-and-moonshine\">.\u003c/a> \"In one prison, there is a commissary where inmates can buy a hot pot, something to heat food but not cook or boil in — since boiling water can be used as a weapon. But there are a couple of prisoners who are really clever and they simply rewired those pots and now they use them to cook and boil food. It's amazing. They also use their T-shirts as a sieve to make all kinds of alcoholic beverages.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The T-shirt-as-sieve hack recalls Crusoe's neckcloth-as-sieve one. The bottle-as-rolling pin trick, of course, is hardly new, and Reichl will be pleased to know that when Gandhi was imprisoned by the British in 1932 during the Indian freedom struggle, he and his secretary, Mahadev Desai, used a glass bottle to roll out thin rotis (unleavened bread) when the jail warder didn't have a rolling pin handy. Opie calls these innovations \"universal ways of surviving.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If neckcloths, T-shirts, cutlasses and rasps can be pressed into service in the kitchen, kitchen products, too, can be called upon for non-culinary purposes. Chef \u003ca href=\"https://www.thebertinetkitchen.com/\">Richard Bertinet\u003c/a> says his scraper is indispensable \"for cleaning the car windscreen in winter,\" while Fergus Henderson gets lyrical about the wooden spoon: \"You can stir food, spank those who need spanking, conduct [an orchestra]. ...\" If one were to rewind all the way back to the Crusades, there is the Englishwoman named Margaret of Beverly, who defended herself in Jerusalem by\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>clapping a saucepan on her head for a helmet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In America, one of the most enduring icons of re-use is the feedsack dress, a fashionable garment that grew out of the hard years of the Depression, when creative rural housewives refashioned \u003ca href=\"https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_1105750\">feed sacks\u003c/a> and flour bags to make clothes, curtains, towels and quilts for their families. Frugality aside, creating something beautiful out of ordinary packaging gave these women a sense of pride and joy that helped lighten those bleak years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food magazines and YouTube recognize this spirit and are constantly coming up with useful tips, whether it is using a wine stopper to make thumbprint cookies; a cooling rack to steam veggies; or a shower cap to cover a dish instead of fiddly plastic wrap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who love hacks, gadgets are simply an impediment. To quote the Scottish poet Kathleen Jamie from another context, they have \"no more need of those implements than a deer has, browsing in a glade.\" The great Elizabeth David's rant against the \u003ca href=\"https://www.londonreviewbookshop.co.uk/blog/2017/3/garlic-presses-are-utterly-useless-by-elizabeth-david\">\"utterly useless\" garlic press\u003c/a> — that most divisive of all kitchen gadgets — is now legendary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there are other great chefs — Julia Child and James Beard among them — who love gadgets. Beard's joy on first encountering a food processor in Paris — he played a key role in making the Cuisinart processor a commercial success; it was a flop before he and Julia Child championed it — is perfectly understandable. The food processor, like the refrigerator, was life-changing, liberating cooks (mainly women) from the drudgery of chopping and grinding. But Beard also tended to get gulled by the flood of new and improved devices entering the market, and his editor Judith Jones complained bitterly about Corningware installing smooth-as-glass burners in his kitchen, which may have looked svelte but were as \"slow as molasses to heat up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For all his love of gadgets, Beard knew that the most intelligent and sensuous tool in the kitchen was the human hand. \"Hands are our earliest tools,\" he said. \"Cooking starts with the hands, which are so sensitive that when they touch something, they transmit messages to your brain about texture and temperature.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The gadget debate will last forever, but most cooks will raise their glass to the one gadget that's simply indispensable. Poet Wendy Cope captured its profound importance when she wrote:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The day he moved out was terrible --\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem> That evening she went through hell.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem> His absence wasn't a problem\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem> But the corkscrew had gone as well.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/09/17/760236914/the-spirit-of-innovation-still-thrives-in-the-good-old-kitchen-hack\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"What would Robinson Crusoe have done with a watermelon cuber? His spirit of ingenuity lives on in the kitchen, as inventive cooks still think beyond the norm of conventional kitchen tools.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1568750178,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":30,"wordCount":2025},"headData":{"title":"The Spirit Of Innovation Still Thrives In The Good Old Kitchen Hack | KQED","description":"What would Robinson Crusoe have done with a watermelon cuber? His spirit of ingenuity lives on in the kitchen, as inventive cooks still think beyond the norm of conventional kitchen tools.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"134764 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=134764","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/09/17/the-spirit-of-innovation-still-thrives-in-the-good-old-kitchen-hack/","disqusTitle":"The Spirit Of Innovation Still Thrives In The Good Old Kitchen Hack","nprImageCredit":"Universal History Archive","nprByline":"Nina Martyris, NPR Food","nprImageAgency":"Universal Images Group via Getty Images","nprStoryId":"760236914","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=760236914&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/09/17/760236914/the-spirit-of-innovation-still-thrives-in-the-good-old-kitchen-hack?ft=nprml&f=760236914","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 17 Sep 2019 11:21:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 17 Sep 2019 07:00:52 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 17 Sep 2019 11:21:36 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/134764/the-spirit-of-innovation-still-thrives-in-the-good-old-kitchen-hack","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_134687,bayareabites_133932","target":"_","label":"More Food History "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This year marks 300 years since the publication of Daniel Defoe's blockbuster novel \u003cem>Robinson Crusoe. \u003c/em>And while its hero is rightly hailed as fiction's most famous castaway, he can just as equally stake his claim to another — more culinary — title.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Robinson Crusoe: patron saint of the kitchen hack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is the man who grew, ground and baked his own organic, artisanal bread from scratch — with nary a Kitchenaid mixer in sight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In an age when we are drowning in kitchen gizmos — whether it's a waterwheel-shaped device to cube a watermelon or a pint-sized mill to mince your herbs or a steel pot with buttons that promises Michelin magic — it's inspiring to recall the Herculean story of Crusoe's bread making and celebrate the kind of ingenuity it embodies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shipwrecked on a deserted island, Crusoe has no plow, no scythe, no threshing floor, no mill, no sieve, no oven. No problem. Driven by desperation, he comes up with tools and methods to turn his precious store of corn into freshly baked loaves: a bough of a tree is his harrow and a cutlass his scythe; he uses his bare hands to rub the kernels from the ears for want of a threshing floor; a mortar and pestle scooped from tree wood serve as a mill; calico and muslin neckcloths retrieved from his ship sift the coarse meal; and as for an oven — that seemingly insurmountable hurdle — rough clay pans handcrafted by him work just fine. This is jerry-riggery at its finest, and results in what to him is the most delicious loaf of bread in the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1838px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035.jpg\" alt=\"Robinson Crusoe cooked with whatever was available.\" width=\"1838\" height=\"2451\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134766\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035.jpg 1838w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/09/crusoe1_vert-fb2b0294e51ad7209a1655346183f36bb75d3035-900x1200.jpg 900w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1838px) 100vw, 1838px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Robinson Crusoe cooked with whatever was available. \u003ccite>(Buyenlarge/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Crusoe spirit is hardly unique. Throughout history, cooks across cultures have invented ways to overcome a lack of conventional cooking tools. This is especially true in conditions of war, captivity, scarcity – and student housing\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>America may be the cradle of the pointless gizmo but it is also the land, as food historian Frederick Opie reminds us, of the hoe cake — those crisp discs of cornbread supposedly named after the blade of the hoe on which they were baked by enslaved men and women forced to work the cotton fields of the South. \"They simply cleaned off their hoes, poured batter on it and baked their bread,\" says Opie. \"They were also known to use clam and oyster shells as knives; they sharpened them and used them to cut and grate vegetables.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vessels were scarce, but the humble gourd proved wonderfully versatile. In his memoir \u003ca href=\"https://www.gutenberg.org/files/45631/45631-h/45631-h.htm\">\u003cem>Twelve Years a Slave\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, Solomon Northup sings its praise for dispensing \"with the necessity of pails, dippers, basins, and such tin and wooden superfluities altogether.\" During WWI, the Salvation Army women sent to France as part of the war effort \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/06/07/189514005/on-national-doughnut-day-free-food-and-feel-good-history\">churned out thousands of donuts for the GIs\u003c/a>, initially using shell casings for rolling pins and helmets filled with lard to fry braided crullers. They were a sensation with the soldiers, who dubbed them the \"Donut Lassies.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This spirit of innovation was recently saluted by food critic Ruth Reichl in a piece for \u003cem>Real Simple \u003c/em>magazine, where she called out the Great American Kitchen, with its \"battery of arcane appliances,\" as something of a hoax. (\"Utter nonsense\" was how she politely put it.) Reichl joyously recalled how she and her husband made do when they were young and penniless: a bottle of cheap wine was used to roll out pastry and — charmingly — discarded ceramic flower pots were called into service to bake cakes and bread. Theirs was a small, dishwasher-free kitchen with scavenged pallets for counters, but one full of music and happiness, hungry friends and good meals. \"I'm convinced I invented the microplane,\" Reichl jokes. \"When I needed to grate Parmesan, I riffled through my husband's tool box and borrowed his rasp.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Southern cooking legend Edna Lewis would have smiled in approval. Ingenuity and thrift were values she was raised on, growing up as she did during the Depression on a farm in Freetown, Va., a town established by emancipated slaves. When she died in 2006, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2006/02/14/us/edna-lewis-89-dies-wrote-cookbooks-that-revived-refined-southern-cuisine.html\">New York Times obituary\u003c/a> noted, \"Without fancy cooking equipment, the family improvised, measuring baking powder on coins.\" Nothing was bought from the store if something at home could do the job. Buying specialized jelly bags (used to strain fruit for jelly-making) was out of the question. \"I always use the washed and bleached-out bags that Virginia hams come in, and you can also use the bags that hold popcorn rice,\" Lewis writes in \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Pursuit-Flavor-Edna-Lewis/dp/0525655514/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=in+pursuit+of+flavor&qid=1568319551&s=books&sr=1-1\">\u003cem>In Pursuit of Flavor\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. \"Just wash them well and hang them in the sun to dry and bleach.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lewis also described how, even in the summer, meat could be kept cold in a contraption called a \"spring box\":\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\"Because we had no electricity, fresh meat was not refrigerated, but we could store it and other perishables for a few days in the spring box, even during the hottest weeks of the summer. The spring box was a covered wooden box set over the run-off stream from the spring. It had holes in both ends so that a tiny trickle of cold, clear spring water passed through it and kept any food stored inside perfectly cold ... My aunt, who had a well for water rather than a spring, would put food in the bucket and keep it cold by lowering it down the well.\"\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\"I love the Edna Lewis story about refrigeration,\" says Nashville baker and author Anne Byrn, who has improvised all her life. \"I have used a sharp paring knife to cut slivers of lemon zest when there's no zester on a photo shoot, and I know the visual tests for candy making in case there's no thermometer around,\" she says. \"This has completely frustrated my husband, John, a lover of gadgets, especially because I tossed out his red plastic shrimp deveiner when we were first married. I thought, Who needs this when you've got a sharp paring knife? ... But, I bought him a replacement!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In her book \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/American-Cake-Colonial-Gingerbread-Best-Loved/dp/1623365430/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=american+cake&qid=1568319514&s=books&sr=1-1\">\u003cem>American Cake\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>,\u003c/em> Byrn notes that Shaker women used peach twigs to whisk egg whites in the forlorn hope that it would impart a peachy flavor to the meringue. \"The Shakers were truly innovative as well as minimalists,\" she says. \"They cared for nature, and it's no small coincidence that their contribution to cooking has been the lemon pie in which you use the entire lemon.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Byrn's forthcoming book, \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Skillet-Love-Steak-Recipes-Cast-Iron/dp/1538763184\">Skillet Love\u003c/a>, is a tribute to the pan that does everything. \"It's perfect for people who like to improvise and are gadget-weary. It can pound chicken flat into cutlets. And now it is my new go-to pan for baking cakes. A pound cake baked in a cast-iron skillet has a crunchy exterior and the most tender interior crumb. And oh ... while we're talking about baking, cooks used tin cans to stamp out biscuits and cookies. Which is why tin cookie cutters cut the best! \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Empty tins are a hacker's best friend. Ask the renowned chef of Italian food, Lidia Bastianich. \"For baking, I always have four empty tomato cans, cleaned, and I use them to prop up a hot baking sheet coming out of the oven to cool,\" she says. For British chef Jamie Oliver, \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/dec/02/chefs-favourite-kitchen-gadgets-equipment\">an empty jam jar\u003c/a> is his gadget \u003cem>du jour\u003c/em>. \"Super-cheap and super-useful, for anything from salad dressings and salsas to storing pulses and spices.\" One more use for the jam jar? It's the hipster's vessel of choice for drinking over-hopped, overpriced craft beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another fertile nursery of innovation is the prison. \"I've done recent work with prisoners and have been simply amazed by the things they come up with,\" says Opie, who has a fascinating podcast called \u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/fredopieshow/part-2-joint-gensius-prison-pop-ups-and-moonshine\">\u003cem>Joint Genius, Prison Pop Ups and Moonshine\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/fredopieshow/part-2-joint-gensius-prison-pop-ups-and-moonshine\">.\u003c/a> \"In one prison, there is a commissary where inmates can buy a hot pot, something to heat food but not cook or boil in — since boiling water can be used as a weapon. But there are a couple of prisoners who are really clever and they simply rewired those pots and now they use them to cook and boil food. It's amazing. They also use their T-shirts as a sieve to make all kinds of alcoholic beverages.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The T-shirt-as-sieve hack recalls Crusoe's neckcloth-as-sieve one. The bottle-as-rolling pin trick, of course, is hardly new, and Reichl will be pleased to know that when Gandhi was imprisoned by the British in 1932 during the Indian freedom struggle, he and his secretary, Mahadev Desai, used a glass bottle to roll out thin rotis (unleavened bread) when the jail warder didn't have a rolling pin handy. Opie calls these innovations \"universal ways of surviving.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If neckcloths, T-shirts, cutlasses and rasps can be pressed into service in the kitchen, kitchen products, too, can be called upon for non-culinary purposes. Chef \u003ca href=\"https://www.thebertinetkitchen.com/\">Richard Bertinet\u003c/a> says his scraper is indispensable \"for cleaning the car windscreen in winter,\" while Fergus Henderson gets lyrical about the wooden spoon: \"You can stir food, spank those who need spanking, conduct [an orchestra]. ...\" If one were to rewind all the way back to the Crusades, there is the Englishwoman named Margaret of Beverly, who defended herself in Jerusalem by\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>clapping a saucepan on her head for a helmet. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In America, one of the most enduring icons of re-use is the feedsack dress, a fashionable garment that grew out of the hard years of the Depression, when creative rural housewives refashioned \u003ca href=\"https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_1105750\">feed sacks\u003c/a> and flour bags to make clothes, curtains, towels and quilts for their families. Frugality aside, creating something beautiful out of ordinary packaging gave these women a sense of pride and joy that helped lighten those bleak years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food magazines and YouTube recognize this spirit and are constantly coming up with useful tips, whether it is using a wine stopper to make thumbprint cookies; a cooling rack to steam veggies; or a shower cap to cover a dish instead of fiddly plastic wrap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who love hacks, gadgets are simply an impediment. To quote the Scottish poet Kathleen Jamie from another context, they have \"no more need of those implements than a deer has, browsing in a glade.\" The great Elizabeth David's rant against the \u003ca href=\"https://www.londonreviewbookshop.co.uk/blog/2017/3/garlic-presses-are-utterly-useless-by-elizabeth-david\">\"utterly useless\" garlic press\u003c/a> — that most divisive of all kitchen gadgets — is now legendary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there are other great chefs — Julia Child and James Beard among them — who love gadgets. Beard's joy on first encountering a food processor in Paris — he played a key role in making the Cuisinart processor a commercial success; it was a flop before he and Julia Child championed it — is perfectly understandable. The food processor, like the refrigerator, was life-changing, liberating cooks (mainly women) from the drudgery of chopping and grinding. But Beard also tended to get gulled by the flood of new and improved devices entering the market, and his editor Judith Jones complained bitterly about Corningware installing smooth-as-glass burners in his kitchen, which may have looked svelte but were as \"slow as molasses to heat up.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For all his love of gadgets, Beard knew that the most intelligent and sensuous tool in the kitchen was the human hand. \"Hands are our earliest tools,\" he said. \"Cooking starts with the hands, which are so sensitive that when they touch something, they transmit messages to your brain about texture and temperature.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The gadget debate will last forever, but most cooks will raise their glass to the one gadget that's simply indispensable. Poet Wendy Cope captured its profound importance when she wrote:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The day he moved out was terrible --\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem> That evening she went through hell.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem> His absence wasn't a problem\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\u003cem> But the corkscrew had gone as well.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/09/17/760236914/the-spirit-of-innovation-still-thrives-in-the-good-old-kitchen-hack\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/134764/the-spirit-of-innovation-still-thrives-in-the-good-old-kitchen-hack","authors":["byline_bayareabites_134764"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_1608","bayareabites_16465","bayareabites_16272"],"featImg":"bayareabites_134765","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_134292":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_134292","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"134292","score":null,"sort":[1564439791000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"yum-yum-sauce-the-making-of-an-american-condiment","title":"Yum Yum Sauce: The Making Of An American Condiment","publishDate":1564439791,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_100021,news_11691757' label='More Food History']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The scene is a familiar one. People sit around a rectangular table, the bulk of which is taken up by a smooth iron cooktop. Gas flames flicker underneath. A man wearing a tall red hat and a white chef's uniform approaches, pulling a cart filled with cold food, large cooking utensils and various bottles of sauces. He holds a spatula and a large metal fork. He brings them together: cling-clang, cling-clang. Eyes sparkling, he looks around the table. \"Welcome to Benihana.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More commonly referred to as hibachi, Japanese teppanyaki-style cooking has become part of the American dining experience. The combination of noodles, rice, vegetables and meat fried up on a griddle draws customers to these restaurants as much as the loud and showy flair of the chefs cooking at the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the more subtle curiosities of teppanyaki restaurants — beyond the stacked onion rings of fire and behind-the-back toss of metal utensils — is a creamy orange-pink sauce placed beside your steaming meal. Almost every teppanyaki restaurant will serve it, though its name differs depending on whom you talk to. White sauce (a deceptive moniker), shrimp sauce, yummy sauce, yum yum sauce — are all used interchangeably. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Considered by many in America to be a Japanese classic (one Reddit \u003ca href=\"https://www.reddit.com/r/asianeats/comments/2h47tc/where_can_i_find_the_infamous_whiteish_sauce_they/\">user\u003c/a> called it \"infamous\"; a \u003ca href=\"https://www.mashed.com/94639/yum-yum-sauce-recipe/\">blogger\u003c/a> speculated that there are really only \"two types of folk that dine at a hibachi restaurant, those that get double white sauce and those that don't know you can get double white sauce\"), the sauce's sweet, slightly tangy flavor varies between restaurants and regions as much as the name does. A little more sweetness in one place. A little more tang in another. Some versions are reminiscent of \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2016/8/6/12054512/fry-sauce-ketchup-mayo-utah-condiment\">fry sauce\u003c/a>, popular in the South. Such variety calls into question whether the sauce we taste in our local teppanyaki restaurants is even Japanese at all. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe not surprisingly, the answer, it appears, is no.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nancysingletonhachisu.com/\">Nancy Singleton Hachisu\u003c/a>, author of three cookbooks on traditional and modern Japanese cuisine, was confused when I first asked her about the sauce. She hadn't heard of it being used in Japan and actually objected to my initial question about hibachi restaurants. \"Since hibachi is a traditional charcoal heater for the room,\" she told me, \"I cannot think that Japan would yield information on this topic.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once I sent her a description of the sauce, which I called shrimp sauce and she called \"basically pink mayo,\" she told me that there is no evidence of its use in Japanese cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tasteofculture.com/\">Elizabeth Andoh\u003c/a>, who has lived in Japan for half a century and runs the Japanese culinary education program A Taste of Culture, was also puzzled. \"I don't know of any white sauce or shrimp sauce that is served with Japanese steak,\" she said. When I prompted her with a more detailed description, she responded, \"This sort of mayo-based ... tomato sauce is \u003cem>not\u003c/em> part of any Japanese steakhouse repertoire I know of.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And \u003ca href=\"https://www.pacific.edu/academics/schools-and-colleges/college-of-the-pacific/academics/departments-and-programs/food-studies/faculty.html\">Polly Adema\u003c/a>, director of the food studies program at California's College of the Pacific, said that the sauce's origins are fuzzy, though probably not deeply rooted in Japanese culture. Perhaps, she said, the sauce stems from congruent American and modern Japanese tastes for mayonnaise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Andoh did say that, in general, the Japanese are \"mayo crazy.\" But such speculation doesn't get you very far.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Which came first: an affection for mayo or a mayo-enriched dish?\" Adema asked. \"[It's] one of those questions we may never be able to answer.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recipe for the sauce is equally difficult to come by. I reached out to 15 different restaurants around the U.S. — large chains and independently run joints — but each turned down my request. \"We cannot divulge that information,\" a Benihana manager in Maryland told me. I received similar answers from a Sakura in New Jersey, an Edohana in Texas and a Flame in New York.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chuck Cutler ran into a very similar problem 25 years ago, when he first tasted what he calls white sauce in a teppanyaki restaurant. \"I noticed that all the other people at the table were asking for two bowls of white sauce ... so I tried it. I was instantly hooked.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cutler spent a decade asking different restaurants for the recipe, to no avail. \"It's a Japanese secret,\" chefs would tell him. One day, though, in a Florida grocery store, he stumbled across a sauce produced by a teppanyaki restaurant. He remembers it being called vegetable sauce. So he bought a bottle \"and darned if it didn't taste exactly like what I had been looking for.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Using the ingredients listed on the vegetable sauce bottle, Cutler was able to come up with his own recipe (Chuck's Easy Recipe), which, in a form of revenge against the restaurants that had rejected him, he made a website for:\u003ca href=\"http://japanese-steakhouse-white-sauce.com/\"> Japanese-Steakhouse-White-Sauce.com\u003c/a>. According to Cutler, it was the first good recipe online. Created almost a decade and a half ago, the website now has 229 pages of comments from visitors. There \"are thousands of comments from people all over the world saying, 'Oh my God, I've been looking for this forever,' \" he said. \"Ninety-eight percent of them are positive.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The popularity and intrigue around the sauce led one teppanyaki restaurant owner, Terry Ho, to start bottling it in bulk. Ho owns more than 20 restaurants in the South — some teppanyaki and some Chinese. He has lived in Albany, Ga., since the 1970s, when his grandfather immigrated to the U.S. from Taiwan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ho's sauce is called \u003ca href=\"https://www.terryhosauce.com/\">Terry Ho's Yum Yum Sauce\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The name is distinctive — and a nifty branding move. According to Ho, \"Yum Yum Sauce\" is much more appealing than white sauce or shrimp sauce, neither of which is even a vaguely accurate description of the actual sauce. \"There's no shrimp in this recipe,\" he said. \"Why are you calling it shrimp sauce?\" Yum Yum Sauce, though, is fitting: \"Well, I mean, it tastes yummy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For years, Southerners who had tasted or heard about Ho's Yum Yum Sauce — which he made a little differently from others (less oil and sugar) — would come to his restaurants asking for 16 or 20 ounces of it. He would dole it out in Styrofoam containers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134294\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/unknown-4_custom-843417781433058a5cdbbaff7c8ee1e9e1e135f1-e1564439292913.jpg\" alt=\"Terry Ho's Yum Yum Sauce is manufactured at a plant in Leesburg, Ga.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1211\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134294\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Terry Ho's Yum Yum Sauce is manufactured at a plant in Leesburg, Ga. \u003ccite>(Terry Ho)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Seeing the business potential, Ho started manufacturing and bottling the sauce on a mass scale about a decade ago. Success came quickly. The sauce worked its way to larger and larger outlets, diffusing throughout the United States. It is now sold in around 30,000 grocery stores nationwide. Ho said the company is growing by 10 to 15% every year. The sauce is also stocked in U.S. military commissaries around the world. \"There are people in Germany and Saudi Arabia buying the sauce,\" Ho proudly said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My plan is to turn Yum Yum Sauce into the next American condiment,\" he told me. \"We don't want to be just [perceived as] an Asian sauce. We want to be the next ranch.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I asked Cutler about Terry Ho's Yum Yum Sauce, he sighed. \"I tried that one, and I didn't think it was that great.\" But of course, he acknowledged, tastes are tastes. Different sauces will appeal to different people in different regions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sauce — delicious as it is —\u003cem> is\u003c/em> something different to everyone. It's what's available. What's memorable. Maybe even what has the most creative name. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/07/29/741912379/yum-yum-sauce-the-making-of-an-american-condiment\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Japanese steakhouses often serve a creamy orange-pink sauce alongside a steaming meal. Online, fans obsess over hacking the recipe for this \"Japanese classic,\" but its roots are firmly American.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1564439791,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":27,"wordCount":1300},"headData":{"title":"Yum Yum Sauce: The Making Of An American Condiment | KQED","description":"Japanese steakhouses often serve a creamy orange-pink sauce alongside a steaming meal. Online, fans obsess over hacking the recipe for this "Japanese classic," but its roots are firmly American.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"134292 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=134292","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/07/29/yum-yum-sauce-the-making-of-an-american-condiment/","disqusTitle":"Yum Yum Sauce: The Making Of An American Condiment","nprByline":"Oliver Whang","nprImageAgency":"Olivia Falcigno/NPR","nprStoryId":"741912379","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=741912379&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/07/29/741912379/yum-yum-sauce-the-making-of-an-american-condiment?ft=nprml&f=741912379","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 29 Jul 2019 18:02:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 29 Jul 2019 13:56:02 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 29 Jul 2019 18:02:50 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/134292/yum-yum-sauce-the-making-of-an-american-condiment","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_100021,news_11691757","label":"More Food History "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The scene is a familiar one. People sit around a rectangular table, the bulk of which is taken up by a smooth iron cooktop. Gas flames flicker underneath. A man wearing a tall red hat and a white chef's uniform approaches, pulling a cart filled with cold food, large cooking utensils and various bottles of sauces. He holds a spatula and a large metal fork. He brings them together: cling-clang, cling-clang. Eyes sparkling, he looks around the table. \"Welcome to Benihana.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More commonly referred to as hibachi, Japanese teppanyaki-style cooking has become part of the American dining experience. The combination of noodles, rice, vegetables and meat fried up on a griddle draws customers to these restaurants as much as the loud and showy flair of the chefs cooking at the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the more subtle curiosities of teppanyaki restaurants — beyond the stacked onion rings of fire and behind-the-back toss of metal utensils — is a creamy orange-pink sauce placed beside your steaming meal. Almost every teppanyaki restaurant will serve it, though its name differs depending on whom you talk to. White sauce (a deceptive moniker), shrimp sauce, yummy sauce, yum yum sauce — are all used interchangeably. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Considered by many in America to be a Japanese classic (one Reddit \u003ca href=\"https://www.reddit.com/r/asianeats/comments/2h47tc/where_can_i_find_the_infamous_whiteish_sauce_they/\">user\u003c/a> called it \"infamous\"; a \u003ca href=\"https://www.mashed.com/94639/yum-yum-sauce-recipe/\">blogger\u003c/a> speculated that there are really only \"two types of folk that dine at a hibachi restaurant, those that get double white sauce and those that don't know you can get double white sauce\"), the sauce's sweet, slightly tangy flavor varies between restaurants and regions as much as the name does. A little more sweetness in one place. A little more tang in another. Some versions are reminiscent of \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2016/8/6/12054512/fry-sauce-ketchup-mayo-utah-condiment\">fry sauce\u003c/a>, popular in the South. Such variety calls into question whether the sauce we taste in our local teppanyaki restaurants is even Japanese at all. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe not surprisingly, the answer, it appears, is no.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nancysingletonhachisu.com/\">Nancy Singleton Hachisu\u003c/a>, author of three cookbooks on traditional and modern Japanese cuisine, was confused when I first asked her about the sauce. She hadn't heard of it being used in Japan and actually objected to my initial question about hibachi restaurants. \"Since hibachi is a traditional charcoal heater for the room,\" she told me, \"I cannot think that Japan would yield information on this topic.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once I sent her a description of the sauce, which I called shrimp sauce and she called \"basically pink mayo,\" she told me that there is no evidence of its use in Japanese cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tasteofculture.com/\">Elizabeth Andoh\u003c/a>, who has lived in Japan for half a century and runs the Japanese culinary education program A Taste of Culture, was also puzzled. \"I don't know of any white sauce or shrimp sauce that is served with Japanese steak,\" she said. When I prompted her with a more detailed description, she responded, \"This sort of mayo-based ... tomato sauce is \u003cem>not\u003c/em> part of any Japanese steakhouse repertoire I know of.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And \u003ca href=\"https://www.pacific.edu/academics/schools-and-colleges/college-of-the-pacific/academics/departments-and-programs/food-studies/faculty.html\">Polly Adema\u003c/a>, director of the food studies program at California's College of the Pacific, said that the sauce's origins are fuzzy, though probably not deeply rooted in Japanese culture. Perhaps, she said, the sauce stems from congruent American and modern Japanese tastes for mayonnaise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Andoh did say that, in general, the Japanese are \"mayo crazy.\" But such speculation doesn't get you very far.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Which came first: an affection for mayo or a mayo-enriched dish?\" Adema asked. \"[It's] one of those questions we may never be able to answer.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The recipe for the sauce is equally difficult to come by. I reached out to 15 different restaurants around the U.S. — large chains and independently run joints — but each turned down my request. \"We cannot divulge that information,\" a Benihana manager in Maryland told me. I received similar answers from a Sakura in New Jersey, an Edohana in Texas and a Flame in New York.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chuck Cutler ran into a very similar problem 25 years ago, when he first tasted what he calls white sauce in a teppanyaki restaurant. \"I noticed that all the other people at the table were asking for two bowls of white sauce ... so I tried it. I was instantly hooked.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cutler spent a decade asking different restaurants for the recipe, to no avail. \"It's a Japanese secret,\" chefs would tell him. One day, though, in a Florida grocery store, he stumbled across a sauce produced by a teppanyaki restaurant. He remembers it being called vegetable sauce. So he bought a bottle \"and darned if it didn't taste exactly like what I had been looking for.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Using the ingredients listed on the vegetable sauce bottle, Cutler was able to come up with his own recipe (Chuck's Easy Recipe), which, in a form of revenge against the restaurants that had rejected him, he made a website for:\u003ca href=\"http://japanese-steakhouse-white-sauce.com/\"> Japanese-Steakhouse-White-Sauce.com\u003c/a>. According to Cutler, it was the first good recipe online. Created almost a decade and a half ago, the website now has 229 pages of comments from visitors. There \"are thousands of comments from people all over the world saying, 'Oh my God, I've been looking for this forever,' \" he said. \"Ninety-eight percent of them are positive.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The popularity and intrigue around the sauce led one teppanyaki restaurant owner, Terry Ho, to start bottling it in bulk. Ho owns more than 20 restaurants in the South — some teppanyaki and some Chinese. He has lived in Albany, Ga., since the 1970s, when his grandfather immigrated to the U.S. from Taiwan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ho's sauce is called \u003ca href=\"https://www.terryhosauce.com/\">Terry Ho's Yum Yum Sauce\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The name is distinctive — and a nifty branding move. According to Ho, \"Yum Yum Sauce\" is much more appealing than white sauce or shrimp sauce, neither of which is even a vaguely accurate description of the actual sauce. \"There's no shrimp in this recipe,\" he said. \"Why are you calling it shrimp sauce?\" Yum Yum Sauce, though, is fitting: \"Well, I mean, it tastes yummy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For years, Southerners who had tasted or heard about Ho's Yum Yum Sauce — which he made a little differently from others (less oil and sugar) — would come to his restaurants asking for 16 or 20 ounces of it. He would dole it out in Styrofoam containers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_134294\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/07/unknown-4_custom-843417781433058a5cdbbaff7c8ee1e9e1e135f1-e1564439292913.jpg\" alt=\"Terry Ho's Yum Yum Sauce is manufactured at a plant in Leesburg, Ga.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1211\" class=\"size-full wp-image-134294\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Terry Ho's Yum Yum Sauce is manufactured at a plant in Leesburg, Ga. \u003ccite>(Terry Ho)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Seeing the business potential, Ho started manufacturing and bottling the sauce on a mass scale about a decade ago. Success came quickly. The sauce worked its way to larger and larger outlets, diffusing throughout the United States. It is now sold in around 30,000 grocery stores nationwide. Ho said the company is growing by 10 to 15% every year. The sauce is also stocked in U.S. military commissaries around the world. \"There are people in Germany and Saudi Arabia buying the sauce,\" Ho proudly said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My plan is to turn Yum Yum Sauce into the next American condiment,\" he told me. \"We don't want to be just [perceived as] an Asian sauce. We want to be the next ranch.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I asked Cutler about Terry Ho's Yum Yum Sauce, he sighed. \"I tried that one, and I didn't think it was that great.\" But of course, he acknowledged, tastes are tastes. Different sauces will appeal to different people in different regions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sauce — delicious as it is —\u003cem> is\u003c/em> something different to everyone. It's what's available. What's memorable. Maybe even what has the most creative name. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/07/29/741912379/yum-yum-sauce-the-making-of-an-american-condiment\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/134292/yum-yum-sauce-the-making-of-an-american-condiment","authors":["byline_bayareabites_134292"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_12555","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_181"],"tags":["bayareabites_1226","bayareabites_1608","bayareabites_16272","bayareabites_16443"],"featImg":"bayareabites_134293","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_133710":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_133710","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"133710","score":null,"sort":[1558475587000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"belgian-monastery-will-brew-beer-again-after-a-220-year-pause","title":"Belgian Monastery Will Brew Beer Again, After A 220-Year Pause","publishDate":1558475587,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_118750,bayareabites_117246' label='More Beer to Sip On']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The last time Belgium's Grimbergen Abbey brewed beer, the United States was only about 20 years old. But the abbey now plans to make beer again, and for inspiration, it will turn to the original recipes and brewing instructions in its archive of medieval texts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After it was founded in 1128, the Norbertine abbey's fathers spent centuries making beer. But they were forced to stop when the abbey was destroyed in 1798. Now they want to get back into brewing — and to do it, they're hoping to use secrets they've gleaned from ancient books the abbey managed to preserve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Grimbergen name already appears on Belgian beer, thanks to licensing deals with two commercial breweries: Carlsberg brews Grimbergen beers for the international market, while Heineken-owned Alken-Maes brews for the domestic market in Belgium. The abbey gets part of those profits; now it wants to get directly involved in making the beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sketching out a new alignment of traditional monastic brewing and corporate support, Father Karel Stautemas, the abbey's subprior, says he will get formal training to help run the new microbrewery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Beer has always been part of life in the abbey and we are proud of the beers we have today,\" Father Karel said Tuesday as he announced plans for the new brewery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of the books saved from the abbey's library date to the 12th century. Those that deal with brewing beer are in Latin and Old Dutch, making it hard to quickly identify which books should be brought to bear on the new project.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've spent hours leafing through the books,\" Karel said, \"and have discovered ingredient lists for beers brewed in previous centuries, the hops used, the types of barrels and bottles, and even a list of the actual beers produced centuries ago.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The abbey is located in Grimbergen, a town about eight miles north of Brussels. The abbey has been destroyed several times since it was founded — most recently in 1798, when French soldiers destroyed the abbey and its brewery during a violent clampdown on the Catholic Church. (The area had recently been annexed by France.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133713\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/book-beer_wide-cab3950adddb942d19a6333d51acc4453e88d22c-s1600-c85.jpeg\" alt=\"The Grimbergen Abbey near Brussels aims to combine brewing traditions found in its ancient books with modern techniques.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"899\" class=\"size-full wp-image-133713\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/book-beer_wide-cab3950adddb942d19a6333d51acc4453e88d22c-s1600-c85.jpeg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/book-beer_wide-cab3950adddb942d19a6333d51acc4453e88d22c-s1600-c85-160x90.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/book-beer_wide-cab3950adddb942d19a6333d51acc4453e88d22c-s1600-c85-800x450.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/book-beer_wide-cab3950adddb942d19a6333d51acc4453e88d22c-s1600-c85-768x432.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/book-beer_wide-cab3950adddb942d19a6333d51acc4453e88d22c-s1600-c85-1020x573.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/book-beer_wide-cab3950adddb942d19a6333d51acc4453e88d22c-s1600-c85-1200x674.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Grimbergen Abbey near Brussels aims to combine brewing traditions found in its ancient books with modern techniques. \u003ccite>(Grimbergen Abbey)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That 1798 attack was devastating — but before its library was destroyed, the abbey's quick-thinking fathers knocked a hole in a wall and ferried several hundred books to safety.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the abbey's repeated destruction, it has always been rebuilt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For centuries, Grimbergen Abbey has been associated with the symbol of a phoenix. Its fathers adopted the mythical animal as part of their coat of arms in 1629, after rebuilding the abbey following religious wars. The phoenix also reflects the abbey's Latin motto: \u003cem>ardet nec consumitur\u003c/em> — \"burned but not destroyed.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The new brewery will sit inside the abbey's walls, and it will include a bar and restaurant for visitors. It's slated to open in 2020, with Karel and five or six other workers producing relatively small batches of beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for what the new beer will be like, it will use the same Belgian yeast Carlsberg currently uses to elicit rich, spicy notes in its Grimbergen brews. The abbey-produced beer will also undergo multiple fermentations and barrel aging to deepen its flavors. And the brewers will try to use local hops and some of the same approaches found in the abbey's library.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're excited to use these books to bring back the medieval techniques and ingredients to create new beers,\" said Marc-Antoine Sochon of Carlsberg, who will be the new microbrewery's head brewer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/05/21/725439880/belgian-monastery-will-brew-beer-again-after-a-220-year-pause\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The last time Belgium's Grimbergen Abbey brewed its own beer, the United States was only about 20 years old.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1558475587,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":18,"wordCount":636},"headData":{"title":"Belgian Monastery Will Brew Beer Again, After A 220-Year Pause | KQED","description":"The last time Belgium's Grimbergen Abbey brewed its own beer, the United States was only about 20 years old.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"133710 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=133710","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/05/21/belgian-monastery-will-brew-beer-again-after-a-220-year-pause/","disqusTitle":"Belgian Monastery Will Brew Beer Again, After A 220-Year Pause","nprImageCredit":"Yves Herman","nprImageAgency":"Reuters","path":"/bayareabites/133710/belgian-monastery-will-brew-beer-again-after-a-220-year-pause","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_118750,bayareabites_117246","label":"More Beer to Sip On "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The last time Belgium's Grimbergen Abbey brewed beer, the United States was only about 20 years old. But the abbey now plans to make beer again, and for inspiration, it will turn to the original recipes and brewing instructions in its archive of medieval texts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After it was founded in 1128, the Norbertine abbey's fathers spent centuries making beer. But they were forced to stop when the abbey was destroyed in 1798. Now they want to get back into brewing — and to do it, they're hoping to use secrets they've gleaned from ancient books the abbey managed to preserve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Grimbergen name already appears on Belgian beer, thanks to licensing deals with two commercial breweries: Carlsberg brews Grimbergen beers for the international market, while Heineken-owned Alken-Maes brews for the domestic market in Belgium. The abbey gets part of those profits; now it wants to get directly involved in making the beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sketching out a new alignment of traditional monastic brewing and corporate support, Father Karel Stautemas, the abbey's subprior, says he will get formal training to help run the new microbrewery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Beer has always been part of life in the abbey and we are proud of the beers we have today,\" Father Karel said Tuesday as he announced plans for the new brewery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of the books saved from the abbey's library date to the 12th century. Those that deal with brewing beer are in Latin and Old Dutch, making it hard to quickly identify which books should be brought to bear on the new project.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We've spent hours leafing through the books,\" Karel said, \"and have discovered ingredient lists for beers brewed in previous centuries, the hops used, the types of barrels and bottles, and even a list of the actual beers produced centuries ago.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The abbey is located in Grimbergen, a town about eight miles north of Brussels. The abbey has been destroyed several times since it was founded — most recently in 1798, when French soldiers destroyed the abbey and its brewery during a violent clampdown on the Catholic Church. (The area had recently been annexed by France.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_133713\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1600px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/book-beer_wide-cab3950adddb942d19a6333d51acc4453e88d22c-s1600-c85.jpeg\" alt=\"The Grimbergen Abbey near Brussels aims to combine brewing traditions found in its ancient books with modern techniques.\" width=\"1600\" height=\"899\" class=\"size-full wp-image-133713\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/book-beer_wide-cab3950adddb942d19a6333d51acc4453e88d22c-s1600-c85.jpeg 1600w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/book-beer_wide-cab3950adddb942d19a6333d51acc4453e88d22c-s1600-c85-160x90.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/book-beer_wide-cab3950adddb942d19a6333d51acc4453e88d22c-s1600-c85-800x450.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/book-beer_wide-cab3950adddb942d19a6333d51acc4453e88d22c-s1600-c85-768x432.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/book-beer_wide-cab3950adddb942d19a6333d51acc4453e88d22c-s1600-c85-1020x573.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/05/book-beer_wide-cab3950adddb942d19a6333d51acc4453e88d22c-s1600-c85-1200x674.jpeg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Grimbergen Abbey near Brussels aims to combine brewing traditions found in its ancient books with modern techniques. \u003ccite>(Grimbergen Abbey)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That 1798 attack was devastating — but before its library was destroyed, the abbey's quick-thinking fathers knocked a hole in a wall and ferried several hundred books to safety.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Despite the abbey's repeated destruction, it has always been rebuilt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For centuries, Grimbergen Abbey has been associated with the symbol of a phoenix. Its fathers adopted the mythical animal as part of their coat of arms in 1629, after rebuilding the abbey following religious wars. The phoenix also reflects the abbey's Latin motto: \u003cem>ardet nec consumitur\u003c/em> — \"burned but not destroyed.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The new brewery will sit inside the abbey's walls, and it will include a bar and restaurant for visitors. It's slated to open in 2020, with Karel and five or six other workers producing relatively small batches of beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for what the new beer will be like, it will use the same Belgian yeast Carlsberg currently uses to elicit rich, spicy notes in its Grimbergen brews. The abbey-produced beer will also undergo multiple fermentations and barrel aging to deepen its flavors. And the brewers will try to use local hops and some of the same approaches found in the abbey's library.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We're excited to use these books to bring back the medieval techniques and ingredients to create new beers,\" said Marc-Antoine Sochon of Carlsberg, who will be the new microbrewery's head brewer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/05/21/725439880/belgian-monastery-will-brew-beer-again-after-a-220-year-pause\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/133710/belgian-monastery-will-brew-beer-again-after-a-220-year-pause","authors":["5403"],"categories":["bayareabites_301","bayareabites_13306","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_14753","bayareabites_13507","bayareabites_1608","bayareabites_16272"],"featImg":"bayareabites_133711","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_132049":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_132049","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"132049","score":null,"sort":[1547059934000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"ancient-japanese-food-craft-brings-persimmons-to-american-palates","title":"Ancient Japanese Food Craft Brings Persimmons To American Palates","publishDate":1547059934,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Each autumn, as leaves fall to the ground, persimmon trees emerge from the graying landscape, their orange and red fruits gleaming like gaudy Christmas ornaments. Beloved in eastern Asia — especially Japan — persimmons get little respect in the United States, where many tree owners don't bother harvesting their crop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many Americans have never tasted a persimmon. But Brock Dolman is an impassioned fan. Every fall he goes foraging for them, and the bounty is almost limitless in rural Sonoma County, Calif., where he lives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You can drive or ride your bike around the county, and you see these enormous trees all over with just thousands and thousands of persimmons,\" says \u003ca href=\"https://oaec.org/about-us/staff/brock-dolman/\">Dolman\u003c/a>, the co-founder of a permaculture center and demonstration farm in the town of Occidental.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The rise of the persimmon\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are lots of ways to eat and prepare this fruit. Many varieties, including the fuyu and suruga, are crunchy and can be eaten right off the tree like apples. Others, including the hachiya, saijo and chocolate, are considered astringent varieties. Rich in tannins, they are unpalatable until allowed to ripen to a jelly-soft texture, at which point they can be eaten out of hand or used in baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several years ago, Dolman learned of a new way to prepare persimmons — a Japanese style called \u003cem>hoshigaki\u003c/em>. A revered delicacy in its homeland, hoshigaki is now a rapidly trending fashion — thanks in large part to social media \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/hoshigaki/?hl=en\">photo galleries\u003c/a> and persimmons' expanding appearance on restaurant menus — in California, the East Coast and other regions with persimmon-friendly climates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Japanese, hoshigaki means simply \"dried persimmon,\" yet describes a product of such labor that it has been called the Kobe beef of fruits. To make hoshigaki, producers use twine to suspend peeled persimmons — always of astringent varieties — from bamboo racks, often outdoors in the sun, other times indoors near a fan or over a warm stove. The process can take between one and two months, and every few days caretakers give regular massages to the softening persimmons, which shrivel, turn dark brown and crust over with natural sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dolman says he learned the craft both from speaking to those with firsthand experience and by watching YouTube tutorials. He has gotten the hang of the technique and recently massaged his fourth hoshigaki crop — harvested from a tree in a nearby park — toward completion. He has just a handful left of his 2017 vintage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I share them only with select friends who will really appreciate them,\" he says, adding that he often serves them with aged sheep or goat cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://sonokosakai.com/our-story/\">Sonoko Sakai\u003c/a>, a Los Angeles-based food author, spent years of her childhood in Japan, and is today one of California's hoshigaki gurus. Sakai's family was friendly with a major commercial hoshigaki producer in the Japanese city of Ogaki.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They would send us a box each year as a gift, and there were seven of us and just eight hoshigaki in the box, so they were very special,\" Sakai says. The family served the fruits with tea or, sometimes, sliced them thinly and applied them as a garnish over \u003cem>kakinamasu — \u003c/em>a daikon and persimmon pickle dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Drawing in millennials\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She only learned to dry her own persimmons about eight years ago, but she has eaten and appreciated them all her life. Today, she teaches hoshigaki classes. People of all ethnicities and backgrounds attend the workshops, she says, but one thing many have in common is that they are all relatively young.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Lots of millennials,\" says Sakai, who is 63. \"I think it's so interesting that these younger people are realizing that it's rewarding to slow down, use their hands, be patient and learn these artisanal practices from other countries.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dangling, massaging and drying persimmons could be seen as the antithesis to what so much of Western culture now demands and expects — instantaneous gratification, ordered digitally with the push of a button.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Hoshigaki is the epitome of slow food,\" Dolman says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132051\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 568px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132051\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmon-702117cf9e31a66cb05602cb14cce875e1e30a83.jpg\" alt=\"There are lots of ways to eat and prepare persimmons, but many Americans aren't sure what to do with the fruit.\" width=\"568\" height=\"426\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmon-702117cf9e31a66cb05602cb14cce875e1e30a83.jpg 568w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmon-702117cf9e31a66cb05602cb14cce875e1e30a83-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmon-702117cf9e31a66cb05602cb14cce875e1e30a83-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmon-702117cf9e31a66cb05602cb14cce875e1e30a83-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmon-702117cf9e31a66cb05602cb14cce875e1e30a83-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 568px) 100vw, 568px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">There are lots of ways to eat and prepare persimmons, but many Americans aren't sure what to do with the fruit. \u003ccite>(Alastair Bland/for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The tradition came to the United States with Japanese immigrants in the 19\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> and 20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> centuries, and it has persisted in a relatively confined cultural circle for decades. Tosh Kuratomi, of \u003ca href=\"http://www.otoworchard.com/\">Otow Orchard\u003c/a>, a major persimmon farm in California, is among those who carried the torch and helped deliver the arcane knowledge of hoshigaki into the age of the Internet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, as the do-it-yourself wisdom of hoshigaki circulates online, there seems to be little danger that the practice will go by the wayside, as has happened with many ancient food arts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sakai notes that interest seems to have surged in the past two years especially, and points out that making hoshigaki \"really isn't that difficult.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's easier than making jam,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Bethlehem, Pa., Bassem Samaan, who owns a nursery called \u003ca href=\"http://treesofjoy.com/\">Trees of Joy\u003c/a>, has grown and eaten his own persimmons for more than a decade. In 2016, he dangled and dried several dozen after learning the technique through Internet research, YouTube videos and advice from experienced friends, including a Japanese-American hoshigaki-maker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Joel Franceschi, of Sonoma County, used to travel in Japan for work. There, he saw bright orange orbs hanging on strings outside homes in mountain villages.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I did a little asking around and some Google searching, and I figured out what they were doing,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He began making hoshigaki five years ago, mainly from fruits he acquires by knocking on strangers' doors. His very tastiest hoshigaki, Franceschi says, are those that he dunked in brandy immediately after peeling and prior to hanging.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there are different ways to make hoshigaki, and farmer Jeffrey Rieger, owner of \u003ca href=\"https://www.penrynorchardspecialties.com/active/buyhoshigaki.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Penryn Orchard\u003c/a> in California's Sierra Nevada foothills, disagrees with Franceschi's technique.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Touching alcohol to them can ruin the process,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rieger grows several varieties of persimmons and has been making hoshigaki since 2005.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was a struggle to sell them at first,\" says Rieger, who says his persimmons, because multiple varieties are cross-pollinated, \"are the sweetest in the country.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But with demand rising, Rieger says, this year he sold out his hoshigaki supply through online orders almost immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132052\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 568px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132052\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmons2-b67f0cfca99671b012e43a69e3bd60900a80fe58.jpg\" alt=\"To make hoshigaki, producers use twine to suspend peeled persimmons from bamboo racks. The process can take between one and two months, and caretakers give regular massages to the softening persimmons.\" width=\"568\" height=\"426\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmons2-b67f0cfca99671b012e43a69e3bd60900a80fe58.jpg 568w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmons2-b67f0cfca99671b012e43a69e3bd60900a80fe58-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmons2-b67f0cfca99671b012e43a69e3bd60900a80fe58-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmons2-b67f0cfca99671b012e43a69e3bd60900a80fe58-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmons2-b67f0cfca99671b012e43a69e3bd60900a80fe58-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 568px) 100vw, 568px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">To make hoshigaki, producers use twine to suspend peeled persimmons from bamboo racks. The process can take between one and two months, and caretakers give regular massages to the softening persimmons. \u003ccite>(Alastair Bland/for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A challenge for newbies\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For newbies making their first hoshigaki batch, failure rates can be high. Mold can be an issue if the humidity is too high or the temperature is too low. For instance, I tried my own hand at making hoshigaki this fall from persimmons collected in and around Sebastopol, Calif. I used bamboo shoots to make a rack and twine to hang the persimmons. Though my project had the look of authenticity, the fruits did not dry rapidly enough, and as a moldy fuzz began to appear on the fruits, I rescued them from spoilage and finished them in my dehydrator.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when everything works as planned, each fruit's surface turns gummy and solid, while inside the tannins break down and the fruit softens into pulp. Finished hoshigaki are dark burgundy to black in color, often with a fluffy crust of sugar on the surface.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You're turning a fruit that's totally inedible when it's not ripe into a sweet jewel,\" says Sakai, whose forthcoming book, \u003cem>Japanese Home Cooking\u003c/em>, will include a section on hoshigaki.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And maybe that will turn more Americans onto this unusual jewel-toned fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Alastair Bland is a freelance writer based in Sebastopol, Calif., who covers food, agriculture and the environment.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit https://www.npr.org.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Ancient+Japanese+Food+Craft+Brings+Persimmons+To+American+Palates&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"A traditional Japanese preparation of persimmons called hoshigaki is starting to trend in the U.S. thanks to social media. It turns ordinary persimmons into the Kobe beef of fruits.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1547059960,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":37,"wordCount":1318},"headData":{"title":"Ancient Japanese Food Craft Brings Persimmons To American Palates | KQED","description":"A traditional Japanese preparation of persimmons called hoshigaki is starting to trend in the U.S. thanks to social media. It turns ordinary persimmons into the Kobe beef of fruits.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"132049 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=132049","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/01/09/ancient-japanese-food-craft-brings-persimmons-to-american-palates/","disqusTitle":"Ancient Japanese Food Craft Brings Persimmons To American Palates","nprImageCredit":"Alastair Bland","nprByline":"Alastair Bland, NPR Food","nprImageAgency":"for NPR","nprStoryId":"682936866","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=682936866&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/01/09/682936866/ancient-japanese-food-craft-brings-persimmons-to-american-palates?ft=nprml&f=682936866","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 09 Jan 2019 10:55:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 09 Jan 2019 08:02:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 09 Jan 2019 10:55:17 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/132049/ancient-japanese-food-craft-brings-persimmons-to-american-palates","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Each autumn, as leaves fall to the ground, persimmon trees emerge from the graying landscape, their orange and red fruits gleaming like gaudy Christmas ornaments. Beloved in eastern Asia — especially Japan — persimmons get little respect in the United States, where many tree owners don't bother harvesting their crop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many Americans have never tasted a persimmon. But Brock Dolman is an impassioned fan. Every fall he goes foraging for them, and the bounty is almost limitless in rural Sonoma County, Calif., where he lives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You can drive or ride your bike around the county, and you see these enormous trees all over with just thousands and thousands of persimmons,\" says \u003ca href=\"https://oaec.org/about-us/staff/brock-dolman/\">Dolman\u003c/a>, the co-founder of a permaculture center and demonstration farm in the town of Occidental.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The rise of the persimmon\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are lots of ways to eat and prepare this fruit. Many varieties, including the fuyu and suruga, are crunchy and can be eaten right off the tree like apples. Others, including the hachiya, saijo and chocolate, are considered astringent varieties. Rich in tannins, they are unpalatable until allowed to ripen to a jelly-soft texture, at which point they can be eaten out of hand or used in baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Several years ago, Dolman learned of a new way to prepare persimmons — a Japanese style called \u003cem>hoshigaki\u003c/em>. A revered delicacy in its homeland, hoshigaki is now a rapidly trending fashion — thanks in large part to social media \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/hoshigaki/?hl=en\">photo galleries\u003c/a> and persimmons' expanding appearance on restaurant menus — in California, the East Coast and other regions with persimmon-friendly climates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Japanese, hoshigaki means simply \"dried persimmon,\" yet describes a product of such labor that it has been called the Kobe beef of fruits. To make hoshigaki, producers use twine to suspend peeled persimmons — always of astringent varieties — from bamboo racks, often outdoors in the sun, other times indoors near a fan or over a warm stove. The process can take between one and two months, and every few days caretakers give regular massages to the softening persimmons, which shrivel, turn dark brown and crust over with natural sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dolman says he learned the craft both from speaking to those with firsthand experience and by watching YouTube tutorials. He has gotten the hang of the technique and recently massaged his fourth hoshigaki crop — harvested from a tree in a nearby park — toward completion. He has just a handful left of his 2017 vintage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I share them only with select friends who will really appreciate them,\" he says, adding that he often serves them with aged sheep or goat cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://sonokosakai.com/our-story/\">Sonoko Sakai\u003c/a>, a Los Angeles-based food author, spent years of her childhood in Japan, and is today one of California's hoshigaki gurus. Sakai's family was friendly with a major commercial hoshigaki producer in the Japanese city of Ogaki.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They would send us a box each year as a gift, and there were seven of us and just eight hoshigaki in the box, so they were very special,\" Sakai says. The family served the fruits with tea or, sometimes, sliced them thinly and applied them as a garnish over \u003cem>kakinamasu — \u003c/em>a daikon and persimmon pickle dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Drawing in millennials\u003cbr>\n\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She only learned to dry her own persimmons about eight years ago, but she has eaten and appreciated them all her life. Today, she teaches hoshigaki classes. People of all ethnicities and backgrounds attend the workshops, she says, but one thing many have in common is that they are all relatively young.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Lots of millennials,\" says Sakai, who is 63. \"I think it's so interesting that these younger people are realizing that it's rewarding to slow down, use their hands, be patient and learn these artisanal practices from other countries.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dangling, massaging and drying persimmons could be seen as the antithesis to what so much of Western culture now demands and expects — instantaneous gratification, ordered digitally with the push of a button.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Hoshigaki is the epitome of slow food,\" Dolman says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132051\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 568px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132051\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmon-702117cf9e31a66cb05602cb14cce875e1e30a83.jpg\" alt=\"There are lots of ways to eat and prepare persimmons, but many Americans aren't sure what to do with the fruit.\" width=\"568\" height=\"426\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmon-702117cf9e31a66cb05602cb14cce875e1e30a83.jpg 568w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmon-702117cf9e31a66cb05602cb14cce875e1e30a83-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmon-702117cf9e31a66cb05602cb14cce875e1e30a83-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmon-702117cf9e31a66cb05602cb14cce875e1e30a83-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmon-702117cf9e31a66cb05602cb14cce875e1e30a83-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 568px) 100vw, 568px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">There are lots of ways to eat and prepare persimmons, but many Americans aren't sure what to do with the fruit. \u003ccite>(Alastair Bland/for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The tradition came to the United States with Japanese immigrants in the 19\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> and 20\u003csup>th\u003c/sup> centuries, and it has persisted in a relatively confined cultural circle for decades. Tosh Kuratomi, of \u003ca href=\"http://www.otoworchard.com/\">Otow Orchard\u003c/a>, a major persimmon farm in California, is among those who carried the torch and helped deliver the arcane knowledge of hoshigaki into the age of the Internet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, as the do-it-yourself wisdom of hoshigaki circulates online, there seems to be little danger that the practice will go by the wayside, as has happened with many ancient food arts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sakai notes that interest seems to have surged in the past two years especially, and points out that making hoshigaki \"really isn't that difficult.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's easier than making jam,\" she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Bethlehem, Pa., Bassem Samaan, who owns a nursery called \u003ca href=\"http://treesofjoy.com/\">Trees of Joy\u003c/a>, has grown and eaten his own persimmons for more than a decade. In 2016, he dangled and dried several dozen after learning the technique through Internet research, YouTube videos and advice from experienced friends, including a Japanese-American hoshigaki-maker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Joel Franceschi, of Sonoma County, used to travel in Japan for work. There, he saw bright orange orbs hanging on strings outside homes in mountain villages.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I did a little asking around and some Google searching, and I figured out what they were doing,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He began making hoshigaki five years ago, mainly from fruits he acquires by knocking on strangers' doors. His very tastiest hoshigaki, Franceschi says, are those that he dunked in brandy immediately after peeling and prior to hanging.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But there are different ways to make hoshigaki, and farmer Jeffrey Rieger, owner of \u003ca href=\"https://www.penrynorchardspecialties.com/active/buyhoshigaki.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Penryn Orchard\u003c/a> in California's Sierra Nevada foothills, disagrees with Franceschi's technique.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Touching alcohol to them can ruin the process,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rieger grows several varieties of persimmons and has been making hoshigaki since 2005.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was a struggle to sell them at first,\" says Rieger, who says his persimmons, because multiple varieties are cross-pollinated, \"are the sweetest in the country.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But with demand rising, Rieger says, this year he sold out his hoshigaki supply through online orders almost immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132052\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 568px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132052\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmons2-b67f0cfca99671b012e43a69e3bd60900a80fe58.jpg\" alt=\"To make hoshigaki, producers use twine to suspend peeled persimmons from bamboo racks. The process can take between one and two months, and caretakers give regular massages to the softening persimmons.\" width=\"568\" height=\"426\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmons2-b67f0cfca99671b012e43a69e3bd60900a80fe58.jpg 568w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmons2-b67f0cfca99671b012e43a69e3bd60900a80fe58-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmons2-b67f0cfca99671b012e43a69e3bd60900a80fe58-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmons2-b67f0cfca99671b012e43a69e3bd60900a80fe58-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/01/persimmons2-b67f0cfca99671b012e43a69e3bd60900a80fe58-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 568px) 100vw, 568px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">To make hoshigaki, producers use twine to suspend peeled persimmons from bamboo racks. The process can take between one and two months, and caretakers give regular massages to the softening persimmons. \u003ccite>(Alastair Bland/for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A challenge for newbies\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For newbies making their first hoshigaki batch, failure rates can be high. Mold can be an issue if the humidity is too high or the temperature is too low. For instance, I tried my own hand at making hoshigaki this fall from persimmons collected in and around Sebastopol, Calif. I used bamboo shoots to make a rack and twine to hang the persimmons. Though my project had the look of authenticity, the fruits did not dry rapidly enough, and as a moldy fuzz began to appear on the fruits, I rescued them from spoilage and finished them in my dehydrator.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when everything works as planned, each fruit's surface turns gummy and solid, while inside the tannins break down and the fruit softens into pulp. Finished hoshigaki are dark burgundy to black in color, often with a fluffy crust of sugar on the surface.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You're turning a fruit that's totally inedible when it's not ripe into a sweet jewel,\" says Sakai, whose forthcoming book, \u003cem>Japanese Home Cooking\u003c/em>, will include a section on hoshigaki.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And maybe that will turn more Americans onto this unusual jewel-toned fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Alastair Bland is a freelance writer based in Sebastopol, Calif., who covers food, agriculture and the environment.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit https://www.npr.org.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=Ancient+Japanese+Food+Craft+Brings+Persimmons+To+American+Palates&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/132049/ancient-japanese-food-craft-brings-persimmons-to-american-palates","authors":["byline_bayareabites_132049"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_2638","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_358"],"tags":["bayareabites_16263","bayareabites_987","bayareabites_1608","bayareabites_10422","bayareabites_16272"],"featImg":"bayareabites_132050","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_130833":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_130833","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"130833","score":null,"sort":[1539286266000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-a-19th-century-chemist-took-on-the-food-industry-with-a-grisly-experiment","title":"How A 19th Century Chemist Took On The Food Industry With A Grisly Experiment","publishDate":1539286266,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Unlabeled stimulants in soft drinks. Formaldehyde in meat and milk. Borax — the stuff used to kill ants! — used as a common food preservative. The American food industry was once a wild and dangerous place for the consumer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Deborah Blum's new book, \u003cem>The Poison Squad,\u003c/em> is a true story about how Dr. Harvey Washington Wiley, named chief chemist of the U.S. Department of Agriculture in 1883, conducted a rather grisly experiment on human volunteers to help make food safer for consumers — and his work still echoes on today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wiley was an indefatigable activist for food safety regulations during a time when the food industry was organizing and adding substances to food without any oversight, using its might to put profits before people. But Wiley and his small band of chemists began methodically testing suspected harmful additives and revealing the effects of these dangerous compounds to the government and public.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was a long battle, but one that did make things better. Nevertheless, we still have debates today over what is safe for us to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>NPR's Ari Shapiro talks to Blum about her new book and Wiley, a formidable pioneer of food-safety regulations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This interview has been edited for length and clarity, and contains some Web-only expanded answers.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You start the book by noting that we have this conception of the food our ancestors ate as being pure and authentic, straight from the farm. What was the reality?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was about the opposite of that. To be fair, there were people who lived on the farm and ate wonderful produce from their gardens, but most people were in this period of migration to the cities. This is the rise of industrialized America in the late 19th century, so most people were eating manufactured, grocery store-bought food. I was actually shocked to discover it was horrifyingly fake, fraudulent and tainted by any and all chemicals [people] felt like putting in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So what might people in 1900 have found in their milk, or their coffee, or their spices?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I took a close look at milk, because it's a great example of just how bad things could get. Dairymen seeking to stretch their profits would thin it with water – and not always clean water. At one point, there was a case in Indiana in which it was pond water. The family found worms wiggling in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>And pond water was actually some of the safer stuff that milk was contaminated with!\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's exactly right, because once you had thinned the milk, you had to reconstitute it in all kinds of weird ways. People put chalk or plaster dust in it. They sometimes put in toxic dyes to make it more golden instead of grayish or bluish. And because it was prone to rot — this was before pasteurization and refrigeration — they would dump preservatives in it. The most popular one was formaldehyde, an embalming compound, which is not good for humans to ingest. You can actually go out and see newspaper headlines around the country during this period with \"embalmed milk scandals.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You tell stories of kids dying from eating candy that was contaminated with lead. Given that this was causing real suffering in consumers, what kinds of arguments were people making for leaving this unregulated?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's baffling, because you are in this period where food makers are knowingly using very bad things. I gave the example of arsenic, which was a green food dye also used to make the shellac that glosses up chocolate. But lead was used to color candies, and red lead was used in cheese. If people wanted to make a beautiful, orange cheddar cheese, they just dumped a little red lead in it. This is not people who didn't know it was bad, but there were things that made it permissible. There were no labels, and so there was no public pressure. It was just a pre-regulatory Wild West of food that permitted bad actors to do what they will, and so they did. It saved them a lot of money. You get this capitalistic feedback loop of people who were trying to make a living – and wanting to make more of a living. The consumer was both the guinea pig and the victim.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130836\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 395px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/9781594205149_custom-81e56572b9681c66ffe39c6e3013265a0ad7b8cb-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"The Poison Squad by Deborah Blum\" width=\"395\" height=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130836\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/9781594205149_custom-81e56572b9681c66ffe39c6e3013265a0ad7b8cb-s700-c85.jpg 395w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/9781594205149_custom-81e56572b9681c66ffe39c6e3013265a0ad7b8cb-s700-c85-160x243.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/9781594205149_custom-81e56572b9681c66ffe39c6e3013265a0ad7b8cb-s700-c85-240x365.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/9781594205149_custom-81e56572b9681c66ffe39c6e3013265a0ad7b8cb-s700-c85-375x570.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 395px) 100vw, 395px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Poison Squad by Deborah Blum \u003ccite>(Penguin Group USA)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So along comes a protagonist of your story: Dr. Harvey Washington Wiley, chief chemist of the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Why did he care so much about this issue?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've always thought of him as kind of a holy roller kind of chemist. He was the son of an itinerant preacher and farmer in Indiana who was also a conductor on the Underground Railroad. Wiley was raised to think that what he did needed to be a higher calling. He would describe chemistry that way: Chemistry is the service of good. So this tiny group of chemists that he commanded at the USDA was it on food safety. He took up that cause.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Your book is called \u003cem>The Poison Squad\u003c/em>, which comes from a project that he undertook that really shows his commitment. Describe what The Poison Squad was.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wiley basically goes out and recruits other people at the USDA, especially young clerks, to volunteer to dine very dangerously. The idea of The Poison Squad was that these young men would get three free meals a day, seven days a week – all of them paid for by the U.S. government. They have to agree not to have snacks or eat outside of these free meals. These are super fancy meals cooked by a professional chef. All of the ingredients are amazing. The only catch is: You have to agree that half of you at any given period in this experiment are going to be given capsules that contain suspect food additives. And these did include formaldehyde, and the cleaning product Borax, and salicylic acid, which we know from aspirin. And the amazing thing is that there were people lining up to volunteer for this experiment. And you wonder, 'Is this crazy or what?' You are testing suspected toxic compounds on human volunteers. But he felt that was the only way he could deal with this. You had this rising tide of really dangerous food additives and there were no safety regulations. 'How do I make a case that perhaps this is not a good idea? I'll just test it on people.' And so he did.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>To no one's surprise, if you feed people formaldehyde, or arsenic or lead, they will get sick. And when you demonstrate that, why does it still remain so difficult to outlaw these substances in food? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The food industry had been organizing itself to fight regulation. Wiley had been advocating and working with congressmen to get some kind of basic consumer protection. And these experiments caught national attention — they were front-page news, there were songs about them — and everyone was realizing that there is a lot of bad stuff in their food. There was an immediate pushback. Suddenly, congressmen are on the side of food business or getting offered more money. The food industry organizes to create a Food Manufacturers Association. They were phenomenally effective. They did a great job trying to damage Wiley's reputation publicly and deny what he was finding, and bullied and threatened congressmen to kill regulation every time it came up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Despite these long-fought fights, today there isn't formaldehyde and lead and arsenic in food the way that there was 100 years ago. Progress really was made!\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, and I would be completely irresponsible if I said that food today is as dangerous as it was in the 19th century. Once the first food-safety law was passed in 1906, two years after Wiley finished his Poison Squad experiments, you see government stepping up against some of these extremely dangerous compounds. But we are still having fights about what's safe. The list of dyes that we have in food today is the exact list that Wiley approved, minus a couple that fell out when they became known to be more toxic. So we've both improved things, and not moved forward as much as Wiley would have liked or I have come to believe we should. \u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2018 NPR. To see more, visit http://www.npr.org/.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=How+A+19th+Century+Chemist+Took+On+The+Food+Industry+With+A+Grisly+Experiment&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Deborah Blum's book, \u003cem>The Poison Squad\u003c/em>, tells how Harvey Washington Wiley and his band of chemists crusaded to remove toxins, such as arsenic and borax, from food. How? By testing them on volunteers.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1539286266,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":1414},"headData":{"title":"How A 19th Century Chemist Took On The Food Industry With A Grisly Experiment | KQED","description":"Deborah Blum's book, The Poison Squad, tells how Harvey Washington Wiley and his band of chemists crusaded to remove toxins, such as arsenic and borax, from food. How? By testing them on volunteers.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"130833 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=130833","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/10/11/how-a-19th-century-chemist-took-on-the-food-industry-with-a-grisly-experiment/","disqusTitle":"How A 19th Century Chemist Took On The Food Industry With A Grisly Experiment","nprByline":"Ari Shapiro, All Things Considered","nprStoryId":"654066794","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=654066794&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2018/10/08/654066794/how-a-19th-century-chemist-took-on-the-food-industry-with-a-grisly-experiment?ft=nprml&f=654066794","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 10 Oct 2018 00:07:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 08 Oct 2018 16:21:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 10 Oct 2018 00:07:30 -0400","nprAudio":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2018/10/20181008_atc_how_a_19th_century_chemist_took_on_the_food_industry_with_a_grisly_experiment.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=454&p=2&story=654066794&ft=nprml&f=654066794","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1655635945-931ea8.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=454&p=2&story=654066794&ft=nprml&f=654066794","audioTrackLength":455,"path":"/bayareabites/130833/how-a-19th-century-chemist-took-on-the-food-industry-with-a-grisly-experiment","audioUrl":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2018/10/20181008_atc_how_a_19th_century_chemist_took_on_the_food_industry_with_a_grisly_experiment.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=454&p=2&story=654066794&ft=nprml&f=654066794","parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Unlabeled stimulants in soft drinks. Formaldehyde in meat and milk. Borax — the stuff used to kill ants! — used as a common food preservative. The American food industry was once a wild and dangerous place for the consumer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Deborah Blum's new book, \u003cem>The Poison Squad,\u003c/em> is a true story about how Dr. Harvey Washington Wiley, named chief chemist of the U.S. Department of Agriculture in 1883, conducted a rather grisly experiment on human volunteers to help make food safer for consumers — and his work still echoes on today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wiley was an indefatigable activist for food safety regulations during a time when the food industry was organizing and adding substances to food without any oversight, using its might to put profits before people. But Wiley and his small band of chemists began methodically testing suspected harmful additives and revealing the effects of these dangerous compounds to the government and public.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was a long battle, but one that did make things better. Nevertheless, we still have debates today over what is safe for us to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>NPR's Ari Shapiro talks to Blum about her new book and Wiley, a formidable pioneer of food-safety regulations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This interview has been edited for length and clarity, and contains some Web-only expanded answers.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You start the book by noting that we have this conception of the food our ancestors ate as being pure and authentic, straight from the farm. What was the reality?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was about the opposite of that. To be fair, there were people who lived on the farm and ate wonderful produce from their gardens, but most people were in this period of migration to the cities. This is the rise of industrialized America in the late 19th century, so most people were eating manufactured, grocery store-bought food. I was actually shocked to discover it was horrifyingly fake, fraudulent and tainted by any and all chemicals [people] felt like putting in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So what might people in 1900 have found in their milk, or their coffee, or their spices?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I took a close look at milk, because it's a great example of just how bad things could get. Dairymen seeking to stretch their profits would thin it with water – and not always clean water. At one point, there was a case in Indiana in which it was pond water. The family found worms wiggling in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>And pond water was actually some of the safer stuff that milk was contaminated with!\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's exactly right, because once you had thinned the milk, you had to reconstitute it in all kinds of weird ways. People put chalk or plaster dust in it. They sometimes put in toxic dyes to make it more golden instead of grayish or bluish. And because it was prone to rot — this was before pasteurization and refrigeration — they would dump preservatives in it. The most popular one was formaldehyde, an embalming compound, which is not good for humans to ingest. You can actually go out and see newspaper headlines around the country during this period with \"embalmed milk scandals.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You tell stories of kids dying from eating candy that was contaminated with lead. Given that this was causing real suffering in consumers, what kinds of arguments were people making for leaving this unregulated?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's baffling, because you are in this period where food makers are knowingly using very bad things. I gave the example of arsenic, which was a green food dye also used to make the shellac that glosses up chocolate. But lead was used to color candies, and red lead was used in cheese. If people wanted to make a beautiful, orange cheddar cheese, they just dumped a little red lead in it. This is not people who didn't know it was bad, but there were things that made it permissible. There were no labels, and so there was no public pressure. It was just a pre-regulatory Wild West of food that permitted bad actors to do what they will, and so they did. It saved them a lot of money. You get this capitalistic feedback loop of people who were trying to make a living – and wanting to make more of a living. The consumer was both the guinea pig and the victim.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_130836\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 395px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/9781594205149_custom-81e56572b9681c66ffe39c6e3013265a0ad7b8cb-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"The Poison Squad by Deborah Blum\" width=\"395\" height=\"600\" class=\"size-full wp-image-130836\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/9781594205149_custom-81e56572b9681c66ffe39c6e3013265a0ad7b8cb-s700-c85.jpg 395w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/9781594205149_custom-81e56572b9681c66ffe39c6e3013265a0ad7b8cb-s700-c85-160x243.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/9781594205149_custom-81e56572b9681c66ffe39c6e3013265a0ad7b8cb-s700-c85-240x365.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/10/9781594205149_custom-81e56572b9681c66ffe39c6e3013265a0ad7b8cb-s700-c85-375x570.jpg 375w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 395px) 100vw, 395px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Poison Squad by Deborah Blum \u003ccite>(Penguin Group USA)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>So along comes a protagonist of your story: Dr. Harvey Washington Wiley, chief chemist of the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Why did he care so much about this issue?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've always thought of him as kind of a holy roller kind of chemist. He was the son of an itinerant preacher and farmer in Indiana who was also a conductor on the Underground Railroad. Wiley was raised to think that what he did needed to be a higher calling. He would describe chemistry that way: Chemistry is the service of good. So this tiny group of chemists that he commanded at the USDA was it on food safety. He took up that cause.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Your book is called \u003cem>The Poison Squad\u003c/em>, which comes from a project that he undertook that really shows his commitment. Describe what The Poison Squad was.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wiley basically goes out and recruits other people at the USDA, especially young clerks, to volunteer to dine very dangerously. The idea of The Poison Squad was that these young men would get three free meals a day, seven days a week – all of them paid for by the U.S. government. They have to agree not to have snacks or eat outside of these free meals. These are super fancy meals cooked by a professional chef. All of the ingredients are amazing. The only catch is: You have to agree that half of you at any given period in this experiment are going to be given capsules that contain suspect food additives. And these did include formaldehyde, and the cleaning product Borax, and salicylic acid, which we know from aspirin. And the amazing thing is that there were people lining up to volunteer for this experiment. And you wonder, 'Is this crazy or what?' You are testing suspected toxic compounds on human volunteers. But he felt that was the only way he could deal with this. You had this rising tide of really dangerous food additives and there were no safety regulations. 'How do I make a case that perhaps this is not a good idea? I'll just test it on people.' And so he did.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>To no one's surprise, if you feed people formaldehyde, or arsenic or lead, they will get sick. And when you demonstrate that, why does it still remain so difficult to outlaw these substances in food? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The food industry had been organizing itself to fight regulation. Wiley had been advocating and working with congressmen to get some kind of basic consumer protection. And these experiments caught national attention — they were front-page news, there were songs about them — and everyone was realizing that there is a lot of bad stuff in their food. There was an immediate pushback. Suddenly, congressmen are on the side of food business or getting offered more money. The food industry organizes to create a Food Manufacturers Association. They were phenomenally effective. They did a great job trying to damage Wiley's reputation publicly and deny what he was finding, and bullied and threatened congressmen to kill regulation every time it came up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Despite these long-fought fights, today there isn't formaldehyde and lead and arsenic in food the way that there was 100 years ago. Progress really was made!\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, and I would be completely irresponsible if I said that food today is as dangerous as it was in the 19th century. Once the first food-safety law was passed in 1906, two years after Wiley finished his Poison Squad experiments, you see government stepping up against some of these extremely dangerous compounds. But we are still having fights about what's safe. The list of dyes that we have in food today is the exact list that Wiley approved, minus a couple that fell out when they became known to be more toxic. So we've both improved things, and not moved forward as much as Wiley would have liked or I have come to believe we should. \u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv class=\"fullattribution\">Copyright 2018 NPR. To see more, visit http://www.npr.org/.\u003cimg src=\"https://www.google-analytics.com/__utm.gif?utmac=UA-5828686-4&utmdt=How+A+19th+Century+Chemist+Took+On+The+Food+Industry+With+A+Grisly+Experiment&utme=8(APIKey)9(MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004)\">\u003c/div>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/130833/how-a-19th-century-chemist-took-on-the-food-industry-with-a-grisly-experiment","authors":["byline_bayareabites_130833"],"categories":["bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_358"],"tags":["bayareabites_1608","bayareabites_13504"],"featImg":"bayareabites_130835","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_102996":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_102996","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"102996","score":null,"sort":[1446836431000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-suffragists-used-cookbooks-as-a-recipe-for-subversion","title":"How Suffragists Used Cookbooks As A Recipe For Subversion","publishDate":1446836431,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>In the new Meryl Streep period movie \u003cem>Suffragette\u003c/em>, Englishwomen march on the streets, smash shop windows and stage sit-ins to demand the vote. Less well-known is that across the pond, a less cinematic resistance was being staged via that most humble vehicle: the cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between 1886, when the first American suffragist cookbook was published, and 1920, when the 19th Amendment to the U.S. Constitution granted women the right to vote, there were at least a half-dozen cookbooks published by suffragette associations in the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These books were the descendants of the post-Civil War charity cookbooks, published to raise funds for war victims and church-related issues.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The suffrage cookbooks came garnished with propaganda for the Great Cause: the fight for getting women the right to vote. Recipes ranged from basic guidelines on brewing tea and boiling rice, to epicurean ones for Almond Parfait and the ever-popular \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/Recipes/Lady-Baltimore-Cake-\">Lady Baltimore Cake\u003c/a>, a layered Southern confection draped in boiled meringue frosting. Occasionally, there was a startling entry, such as that for Emergency Salad: one-tenth of an onion and nine-tenths of an apple with any salad dressing. But the bulk comprised a soothing flow of soups, gravies, breads, roasts, pies, omelets, salads, pickles and puddings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, some might ask: What were feminists doing printing cookbooks? Wasn't their whole movement aimed at empowering women beyond home and hearth?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Women used what they knew, what they could to champion their causes,\" eminent culinary archivist Jan Longone explained during a 2008\u003ca href=\"http://lecb.physics.lsa.umich.edu/wl/carma/2008/20080921-clements/20080921-umwlcd0011-150544/flash.html\"> lecture \u003c/a>at the University of Michigan, where she is adjunct curator of the \u003ca href=\"http://clements.umich.edu/longone-archive.php\">Janice Bluestein Longone Culinary Archive\u003c/a>. \"If that meant baking a cake or cooking a dinner or writing a cookbook, they did that. I need not remind the audience that for most of the 19th century, a woman had no control over her own money, her own children, her own destiny.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103023\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 426px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/book43_cover_custom-b9ce0dc3eac54f9c7c18ffe409a2667cfc654be4-s600-c85.jpg\" alt='Cover of The Woman Suffrage Cook Book, published in 1886. Hattie Burr, the editor, noted proudly that \"among the contributors are many who are eminent in their professions as teachers, lecturers, physicians, ministers, and authors — whose names are household words in the land.\"' width=\"426\" height=\"652\" class=\"size-full wp-image-103023\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/book43_cover_custom-b9ce0dc3eac54f9c7c18ffe409a2667cfc654be4-s600-c85.jpg 426w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/book43_cover_custom-b9ce0dc3eac54f9c7c18ffe409a2667cfc654be4-s600-c85-400x612.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 426px) 100vw, 426px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cover of \u003ca href=\"http://digital.lib.msu.edu/projects/cookbooks/html/books/book_43.cfm\" target=\"_blank\">The Woman Suffrage Cook Book\u003c/a>, published in 1886. Hattie Burr, the editor, noted proudly that \"among the contributors are many who are eminent in their professions as teachers, lecturers, physicians, ministers, and authors — whose names are household words in the land.\" \u003ccite>(Special Collections/Michigan State University Libraries)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But, as Longone points out, these cookbooks were also a strategic rebuttal to the snide jokes and hurtful innuendo directed against suffragists, who were painted as neglectful mothers and kitchen-hating harridans, busy politicking while their children starved. The assertion these books sought to buttress was that \"good cooking and sure voting went hand in hand,\" to quote the 1909 \u003cem>Washington Women's Cook Book\u003c/em>, which opened with the couplet:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>Give us the vote and we will cook\u003cbr> The Better for a wide outlook\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>On Dec. 13, 1886, America's first suffragist cookbook, \u003cem>The Woman's Suffrage Cook Book\u003c/em>, was launched on a drizzly but sold-out evening at a fundraiser at the Boston music hall. The hall was decorated with a white banner bearing the Massachusetts Woman Suffrage Association motto, \"Male and female created He them, and gave them dominion.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Members included the novelist Louisa May Alcott, who would become the first woman registered to vote in Concord. Though she hadn't contributed a recipe, Alcott had just published \u003cem>Jo's Boys\u003c/em>, the final book of her \u003cem>Little Women\u003c/em> series, into which she had slipped in a droll description of a statue of Minerva, the goddess of wisdom, sporting a \"Women's Rights\" slogan on her shield and a helmet ornamented with \"a tiny pestle and mortar\" — a divine nod to the compatibility between cooking and voting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recipes were contributed by regular housewives who carried a \"Mrs.\" before their name, as well as a parade of prominent suffragists who didn't.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Irish Stew, for instance, came courtesy of Cora Scott Pond, a militant prohibitionist (she declined fermented communion wine) and real-estate investor who had refused to wear a corset starting at the age of 16.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chicago obstetrician and gynecologist Alice Bunker Stockham, the fifth woman to become a licensed doctor in the U.S., sent in an elaborate recipe for Coraline Cake, which called for the cake to be split and infused with strawberry or raspberry juice, then filled with boiled custard to make a sort of \"French pie.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dr. Stockham was anti-alcohol and anti-corset but — extraordinarily for her time – pro-masturbation. She publicly endorsed it as healthy for both men and women. Her unorthodox stand positioned her as the antithesis to Sylvester Graham, the Presbyterian reformer who believed \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2014/01/looking-to-quell-sexual-urges-consider-the-graham-cracker/282769/\">rich food inflamed sexual appetite\u003c/a>, and who invented the Graham cracker (made with unrefined flour) to help Americans tame their sexual desires. By the Rev. Graham's standards, the Coraline Cake was positively orgiastic.\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Julia A. Kellogg, star student of novelist Henry James' father, contributed a veal sausage recipe. Though Henry James Sr. was in favor of universal suffrage, he forecast that \"women wouldn't avail themselves of it when it was granted.\" When Kellogg disagreed, they quarreled, according to Alfred Habegger's \u003cem>Henry James\u003c/em> \u003cem>and the 'Woman Business.'\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103025\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/alice_stockham_custom-2589fd7eff1c32458ac3c1bdfca9d65a5699672f-s600-c85-400x601.jpg\" alt=\"Among those contributing to the first suffragist cookbook, published in 1886, was Alice Bunker Stockham, a Chicago obstetrician and gynecologist who sent in an elaborate recipe for Coraline Cake. Stockham was anti-alcohol and anti-corset but — extraordinarily for her time — pro-masturbation.\" width=\"400\" height=\"601\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-103025\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/alice_stockham_custom-2589fd7eff1c32458ac3c1bdfca9d65a5699672f-s600-c85-400x601.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/alice_stockham_custom-2589fd7eff1c32458ac3c1bdfca9d65a5699672f-s600-c85.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Among those contributing to the first suffragist cookbook, published in 1886, was Alice Bunker Stockham, a Chicago obstetrician and gynecologist who sent in an elaborate recipe for Coraline Cake. Stockham was anti-alcohol and anti-corset but — extraordinarily for her time — pro-masturbation. \u003ccite>(Wikimedia Commons)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Anna Ella Carroll,\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>a political writer\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>from Maryland\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>who freed her slaves when Abraham Lincoln was elected president, and who advised him during the Civil War, sent in gruesomely explicit advice for Terrapin Soup. (\u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/history-of-turtle-soup-hunting\" target=\"_blank\">Turtle soup \u003c/a>was once an American delicacy.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Decidedly, the terrapin has to be killed before cooking, and the killing is no easy matter,\" she wrote. \"The head must be cut off, and, as the sight is peculiarly acute, the cook must exercise great ingenuity in concealing the weapon.\" The decapitated terrapin was then to be \"boiled until the feet can be easily pulled off.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sold at fairs, bazaars and women's exchanges, these cookbooks not only raised funds for the suffrage movement, says Longone, but also\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>helped women network, and gain new skills in the fields of publishing, advertising and sales.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1891, the Equal Suffrage Association of Rockford, Ill., published \u003cem>The Holiday Gift Cook Book\u003c/em>. At the time, the state's constitutional law stated: \"Idiots, lunatics, paupers, felons and women shall not be entitled to vote.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103000\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 3391px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db.jpg\" alt=\"Martha Gruening, a suffragist leader, distributes literature on the movement to passersby in New York City, circa 1912. She later earned a law degree from New York University and was active in the civil rights movement.\" width=\"3391\" height=\"2546\" class=\"size-full wp-image-103000\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db.jpg 3391w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db-800x601.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db-1440x1081.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db-1180x886.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db-960x721.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3391px) 100vw, 3391px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Martha Gruening, a suffragist leader, distributes literature on the movement to passersby in New York City, circa 1912. She later earned a law degree from New York University and was active in the civil rights movement. \u003ccite>(Paul Thompson/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Recipes were interspersed with pro-suffrage quotes by famous people such as British politician William Gladstone and abolitionist author Harriet Beecher Stowe. \"Of these, the most poignant plea is that of Clara Barton, founder of the American Red Cross,\" says Longone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barton, a legendary Civil War nurse known as the \"Angel of the Battlefield,\" wrote, \"When you were sick and wounded I toiled for you on the battlefield. Because of my work for you, I ask your aid. I ask the ballot for myself and my sex. As I stood by you, I pray you stand by me and mine.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the most fascinating of these cookbooks came from Pittsburgh in 1915. \u003cem>The Suffrage Cook Book \u003c/em>was a sumptuous cake layered with recipes, celebrity endorsements, photographs and saucy jokes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The blue cover featured a silhouette of Uncle Sam piloting the ship of state with a wheel that has only 12.5 spokes. \"The 12 spokes were for those states where women could vote before the 19th Amendment — all Western states,\" explained Longone. \"The half-spoke was for Illinois, which, at the time, allowed women to vote only in school board elections.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103001\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-400x368.jpg\" alt=\"Recipes from the Woman Suffrage Cook Book, including one for "Graham Bread" attributed to Harriet Beecher Stowe, the author of Uncle Tom's Cabin. Beecher Stowe's sister Isabella Beecher Hooker was a founder of the National Woman Suffrage Association.\" width=\"400\" height=\"368\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-103001\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-400x368.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-800x736.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-1440x1326.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-1180x1086.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-960x884.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Recipes from the Woman Suffrage Cook Book, including one for \"Graham Bread\" attributed to Harriet Beecher Stowe, the author of Uncle Tom's Cabin. Beecher Stowe's sister Isabella Beecher Hooker was a founder of the National Woman Suffrage Association. \u003ccite>(Schlesinger Library/Flickr)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Its pages were sprinkled with recipes carrying playful titles like \"Hymen Cake,\" \"Mother's Election Cake,\" \"Suffrage Salad Dressing,\" \"Suffrage Angel Cake\" and \"Parliament Gingerbread (With apologies to the English Suffragists).\" There were satirical recipes, too, such as \"Pie for a Suffragist's Doubting Husband,\" whose ingredients made for a doleful litany:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>1 qt. milk human kindness\u003cbr> 8 reasons:\u003cbr> War\u003cbr> White Slavery\u003cbr> Child Labor\u003cbr> 8,000,000 Working Women\u003cbr> Bad Roads\u003cbr> Poisonous Water\u003cbr> Impure Food\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the crust with tact and velvet gloves, using no sarcasm, especially with the upper crust. Upper crusts must be handled with extreme care, for they quickly sour if manipulated roughly.\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Another recipe, for \"Anti's Favorite Hash\" — \"anti\" being shorthand for those against the Great Cause — called for a generous handful of injustice, a pound of truth thoroughly mangled, a little vitriol for tang, and a string of nonsense to be stirred with a sharp knife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The contributors were all women, apart from a few celebrity male feminists like writer Jack London, who sent in two recipes: roast duck (\"the plucked bird should be stuffed with a tight handful of plain raw celery\"), and a version of stuffed celery, which called for Roquefort cheese, softened with butter and sherry, to be \"squeezed into the troughs\" of the celery sticks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Exhibiting political savvy, \u003cem>The Suffrage Cook Book's \u003c/em>editor, Mrs. L.O. Kleber, had invited endorsements from governors of eight states that had passed female suffrage laws (Wyoming, Arizona, California, Kansas, Idaho, Illinois, Washington and Oregon). These eminences were fulsome in their praise of women as intelligent, diligent and patriotic voters — but only up to a point.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Idaho Gov. Moses Alexander wrote: \"The impression that Woman Suffrage inspires an ambition in women to seek and hold public office is altogether wrong. The contrary is true.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hillary Clinton, Nancy Pelosi, Jan Brewer, Nikki Haley and a host of other women would surely chuckle at that. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Women seeking the right to vote published the cookbooks both to raise funds for their cause — and as a strategic rebuttal to those who painted them as neglectful mothers and kitchen-hating harridans.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1446837852,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":34,"wordCount":1664},"headData":{"title":"How Suffragists Used Cookbooks As A Recipe For Subversion | KQED","description":"Women seeking the right to vote published the cookbooks both to raise funds for their cause — and as a strategic rebuttal to those who painted them as neglectful mothers and kitchen-hating harridans.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"102996 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=102996","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/11/06/how-suffragists-used-cookbooks-as-a-recipe-for-subversion/","disqusTitle":"How Suffragists Used Cookbooks As A Recipe For Subversion","nprByline":"Nina Martyris, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprStoryId":"454246666","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=454246666&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/11/05/454246666/how-suffragists-used-cookbooks-as-a-recipe-for-subversion?ft=nprml&f=454246666","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 05 Nov 2015 14:40:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 05 Nov 2015 11:25:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 05 Nov 2015 14:40:50 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/102996/how-suffragists-used-cookbooks-as-a-recipe-for-subversion","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In the new Meryl Streep period movie \u003cem>Suffragette\u003c/em>, Englishwomen march on the streets, smash shop windows and stage sit-ins to demand the vote. Less well-known is that across the pond, a less cinematic resistance was being staged via that most humble vehicle: the cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between 1886, when the first American suffragist cookbook was published, and 1920, when the 19th Amendment to the U.S. Constitution granted women the right to vote, there were at least a half-dozen cookbooks published by suffragette associations in the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These books were the descendants of the post-Civil War charity cookbooks, published to raise funds for war victims and church-related issues.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The suffrage cookbooks came garnished with propaganda for the Great Cause: the fight for getting women the right to vote. Recipes ranged from basic guidelines on brewing tea and boiling rice, to epicurean ones for Almond Parfait and the ever-popular \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/Recipes/Lady-Baltimore-Cake-\">Lady Baltimore Cake\u003c/a>, a layered Southern confection draped in boiled meringue frosting. Occasionally, there was a startling entry, such as that for Emergency Salad: one-tenth of an onion and nine-tenths of an apple with any salad dressing. But the bulk comprised a soothing flow of soups, gravies, breads, roasts, pies, omelets, salads, pickles and puddings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, some might ask: What were feminists doing printing cookbooks? Wasn't their whole movement aimed at empowering women beyond home and hearth?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Women used what they knew, what they could to champion their causes,\" eminent culinary archivist Jan Longone explained during a 2008\u003ca href=\"http://lecb.physics.lsa.umich.edu/wl/carma/2008/20080921-clements/20080921-umwlcd0011-150544/flash.html\"> lecture \u003c/a>at the University of Michigan, where she is adjunct curator of the \u003ca href=\"http://clements.umich.edu/longone-archive.php\">Janice Bluestein Longone Culinary Archive\u003c/a>. \"If that meant baking a cake or cooking a dinner or writing a cookbook, they did that. I need not remind the audience that for most of the 19th century, a woman had no control over her own money, her own children, her own destiny.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103023\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 426px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/book43_cover_custom-b9ce0dc3eac54f9c7c18ffe409a2667cfc654be4-s600-c85.jpg\" alt='Cover of The Woman Suffrage Cook Book, published in 1886. Hattie Burr, the editor, noted proudly that \"among the contributors are many who are eminent in their professions as teachers, lecturers, physicians, ministers, and authors — whose names are household words in the land.\"' width=\"426\" height=\"652\" class=\"size-full wp-image-103023\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/book43_cover_custom-b9ce0dc3eac54f9c7c18ffe409a2667cfc654be4-s600-c85.jpg 426w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/book43_cover_custom-b9ce0dc3eac54f9c7c18ffe409a2667cfc654be4-s600-c85-400x612.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 426px) 100vw, 426px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cover of \u003ca href=\"http://digital.lib.msu.edu/projects/cookbooks/html/books/book_43.cfm\" target=\"_blank\">The Woman Suffrage Cook Book\u003c/a>, published in 1886. Hattie Burr, the editor, noted proudly that \"among the contributors are many who are eminent in their professions as teachers, lecturers, physicians, ministers, and authors — whose names are household words in the land.\" \u003ccite>(Special Collections/Michigan State University Libraries)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But, as Longone points out, these cookbooks were also a strategic rebuttal to the snide jokes and hurtful innuendo directed against suffragists, who were painted as neglectful mothers and kitchen-hating harridans, busy politicking while their children starved. The assertion these books sought to buttress was that \"good cooking and sure voting went hand in hand,\" to quote the 1909 \u003cem>Washington Women's Cook Book\u003c/em>, which opened with the couplet:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>Give us the vote and we will cook\u003cbr> The Better for a wide outlook\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>On Dec. 13, 1886, America's first suffragist cookbook, \u003cem>The Woman's Suffrage Cook Book\u003c/em>, was launched on a drizzly but sold-out evening at a fundraiser at the Boston music hall. The hall was decorated with a white banner bearing the Massachusetts Woman Suffrage Association motto, \"Male and female created He them, and gave them dominion.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Members included the novelist Louisa May Alcott, who would become the first woman registered to vote in Concord. Though she hadn't contributed a recipe, Alcott had just published \u003cem>Jo's Boys\u003c/em>, the final book of her \u003cem>Little Women\u003c/em> series, into which she had slipped in a droll description of a statue of Minerva, the goddess of wisdom, sporting a \"Women's Rights\" slogan on her shield and a helmet ornamented with \"a tiny pestle and mortar\" — a divine nod to the compatibility between cooking and voting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Recipes were contributed by regular housewives who carried a \"Mrs.\" before their name, as well as a parade of prominent suffragists who didn't.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Irish Stew, for instance, came courtesy of Cora Scott Pond, a militant prohibitionist (she declined fermented communion wine) and real-estate investor who had refused to wear a corset starting at the age of 16.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chicago obstetrician and gynecologist Alice Bunker Stockham, the fifth woman to become a licensed doctor in the U.S., sent in an elaborate recipe for Coraline Cake, which called for the cake to be split and infused with strawberry or raspberry juice, then filled with boiled custard to make a sort of \"French pie.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dr. Stockham was anti-alcohol and anti-corset but — extraordinarily for her time – pro-masturbation. She publicly endorsed it as healthy for both men and women. Her unorthodox stand positioned her as the antithesis to Sylvester Graham, the Presbyterian reformer who believed \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2014/01/looking-to-quell-sexual-urges-consider-the-graham-cracker/282769/\">rich food inflamed sexual appetite\u003c/a>, and who invented the Graham cracker (made with unrefined flour) to help Americans tame their sexual desires. By the Rev. Graham's standards, the Coraline Cake was positively orgiastic.\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Julia A. Kellogg, star student of novelist Henry James' father, contributed a veal sausage recipe. Though Henry James Sr. was in favor of universal suffrage, he forecast that \"women wouldn't avail themselves of it when it was granted.\" When Kellogg disagreed, they quarreled, according to Alfred Habegger's \u003cem>Henry James\u003c/em> \u003cem>and the 'Woman Business.'\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103025\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/alice_stockham_custom-2589fd7eff1c32458ac3c1bdfca9d65a5699672f-s600-c85-400x601.jpg\" alt=\"Among those contributing to the first suffragist cookbook, published in 1886, was Alice Bunker Stockham, a Chicago obstetrician and gynecologist who sent in an elaborate recipe for Coraline Cake. Stockham was anti-alcohol and anti-corset but — extraordinarily for her time — pro-masturbation.\" width=\"400\" height=\"601\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-103025\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/alice_stockham_custom-2589fd7eff1c32458ac3c1bdfca9d65a5699672f-s600-c85-400x601.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/alice_stockham_custom-2589fd7eff1c32458ac3c1bdfca9d65a5699672f-s600-c85.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Among those contributing to the first suffragist cookbook, published in 1886, was Alice Bunker Stockham, a Chicago obstetrician and gynecologist who sent in an elaborate recipe for Coraline Cake. Stockham was anti-alcohol and anti-corset but — extraordinarily for her time — pro-masturbation. \u003ccite>(Wikimedia Commons)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Anna Ella Carroll,\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>a political writer\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>from Maryland\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>who freed her slaves when Abraham Lincoln was elected president, and who advised him during the Civil War, sent in gruesomely explicit advice for Terrapin Soup. (\u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/history-of-turtle-soup-hunting\" target=\"_blank\">Turtle soup \u003c/a>was once an American delicacy.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Decidedly, the terrapin has to be killed before cooking, and the killing is no easy matter,\" she wrote. \"The head must be cut off, and, as the sight is peculiarly acute, the cook must exercise great ingenuity in concealing the weapon.\" The decapitated terrapin was then to be \"boiled until the feet can be easily pulled off.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sold at fairs, bazaars and women's exchanges, these cookbooks not only raised funds for the suffrage movement, says Longone, but also\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>helped women network, and gain new skills in the fields of publishing, advertising and sales.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1891, the Equal Suffrage Association of Rockford, Ill., published \u003cem>The Holiday Gift Cook Book\u003c/em>. At the time, the state's constitutional law stated: \"Idiots, lunatics, paupers, felons and women shall not be entitled to vote.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103000\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 3391px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db.jpg\" alt=\"Martha Gruening, a suffragist leader, distributes literature on the movement to passersby in New York City, circa 1912. She later earned a law degree from New York University and was active in the civil rights movement.\" width=\"3391\" height=\"2546\" class=\"size-full wp-image-103000\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db.jpg 3391w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db-800x601.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db-1440x1081.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db-1180x886.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/gettyimages-3087723-6ab5c755bc28e45d96b6bda2d442a4a53d4be0db-960x721.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3391px) 100vw, 3391px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Martha Gruening, a suffragist leader, distributes literature on the movement to passersby in New York City, circa 1912. She later earned a law degree from New York University and was active in the civil rights movement. \u003ccite>(Paul Thompson/Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Recipes were interspersed with pro-suffrage quotes by famous people such as British politician William Gladstone and abolitionist author Harriet Beecher Stowe. \"Of these, the most poignant plea is that of Clara Barton, founder of the American Red Cross,\" says Longone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Barton, a legendary Civil War nurse known as the \"Angel of the Battlefield,\" wrote, \"When you were sick and wounded I toiled for you on the battlefield. Because of my work for you, I ask your aid. I ask the ballot for myself and my sex. As I stood by you, I pray you stand by me and mine.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the most fascinating of these cookbooks came from Pittsburgh in 1915. \u003cem>The Suffrage Cook Book \u003c/em>was a sumptuous cake layered with recipes, celebrity endorsements, photographs and saucy jokes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The blue cover featured a silhouette of Uncle Sam piloting the ship of state with a wheel that has only 12.5 spokes. \"The 12 spokes were for those states where women could vote before the 19th Amendment — all Western states,\" explained Longone. \"The half-spoke was for Illinois, which, at the time, allowed women to vote only in school board elections.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_103001\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-400x368.jpg\" alt=\"Recipes from the Woman Suffrage Cook Book, including one for "Graham Bread" attributed to Harriet Beecher Stowe, the author of Uncle Tom's Cabin. Beecher Stowe's sister Isabella Beecher Hooker was a founder of the National Woman Suffrage Association.\" width=\"400\" height=\"368\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-103001\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-400x368.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-800x736.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-1440x1326.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-1180x1086.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/10311203585_bd98a36878_o_enl-870e544e75e397d8c75fcc2ee955c2d873c88a80-960x884.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Recipes from the Woman Suffrage Cook Book, including one for \"Graham Bread\" attributed to Harriet Beecher Stowe, the author of Uncle Tom's Cabin. Beecher Stowe's sister Isabella Beecher Hooker was a founder of the National Woman Suffrage Association. \u003ccite>(Schlesinger Library/Flickr)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Its pages were sprinkled with recipes carrying playful titles like \"Hymen Cake,\" \"Mother's Election Cake,\" \"Suffrage Salad Dressing,\" \"Suffrage Angel Cake\" and \"Parliament Gingerbread (With apologies to the English Suffragists).\" There were satirical recipes, too, such as \"Pie for a Suffragist's Doubting Husband,\" whose ingredients made for a doleful litany:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>1 qt. milk human kindness\u003cbr> 8 reasons:\u003cbr> War\u003cbr> White Slavery\u003cbr> Child Labor\u003cbr> 8,000,000 Working Women\u003cbr> Bad Roads\u003cbr> Poisonous Water\u003cbr> Impure Food\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the crust with tact and velvet gloves, using no sarcasm, especially with the upper crust. Upper crusts must be handled with extreme care, for they quickly sour if manipulated roughly.\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Another recipe, for \"Anti's Favorite Hash\" — \"anti\" being shorthand for those against the Great Cause — called for a generous handful of injustice, a pound of truth thoroughly mangled, a little vitriol for tang, and a string of nonsense to be stirred with a sharp knife.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The contributors were all women, apart from a few celebrity male feminists like writer Jack London, who sent in two recipes: roast duck (\"the plucked bird should be stuffed with a tight handful of plain raw celery\"), and a version of stuffed celery, which called for Roquefort cheese, softened with butter and sherry, to be \"squeezed into the troughs\" of the celery sticks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Exhibiting political savvy, \u003cem>The Suffrage Cook Book's \u003c/em>editor, Mrs. L.O. Kleber, had invited endorsements from governors of eight states that had passed female suffrage laws (Wyoming, Arizona, California, Kansas, Idaho, Illinois, Washington and Oregon). These eminences were fulsome in their praise of women as intelligent, diligent and patriotic voters — but only up to a point.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Idaho Gov. Moses Alexander wrote: \"The impression that Woman Suffrage inspires an ambition in women to seek and hold public office is altogether wrong. The contrary is true.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hillary Clinton, Nancy Pelosi, Jan Brewer, Nikki Haley and a host of other women would surely chuckle at that. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/102996/how-suffragists-used-cookbooks-as-a-recipe-for-subversion","authors":["byline_bayareabites_102996"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_112","bayareabites_15045","bayareabites_15046","bayareabites_1608","bayareabites_128","bayareabites_14738","bayareabites_15047","bayareabites_15043","bayareabites_15044","bayareabites_15049","bayareabites_15048"],"featImg":"bayareabites_102997","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_95854":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_95854","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"95854","score":null,"sort":[1430859966000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"natural-gmo-sweet-potato-genetically-modified-8000-years-ago","title":"Natural GMO? Sweet Potato Genetically Modified 8,000 Years Ago","publishDate":1430859966,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>The first genetically modified crop wasn't made by a megacorporation. Or a college scientist trying to design a more durable tomato. Nope. Nature did it -- at least 8,000 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, actually bacteria in the soil were the engineers. And the microbe's handiwork is present in sweet potatoes all around the world today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scientists at the International Potato Center in Lima, Peru, have found genes from bacteria in 291 sweet potato varieties, including ones grown in the U.S., Indonesia, China, parts of South America and Africa. The findings suggest bacteria inserted the genes into the crop's wild ancestor, long before humans started cooking up sweet potato fries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People have been eating a GMO for thousands of years without knowing it,\" says virologist \u003ca href=\"http://cipotato.org/press-room/press-releases/international-potato-center-receives-grand-challenges-explorations-grant-for-groundbreaking-research-in-global-health-and-development/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Jan Kreuze\u003c/a>, who led the study. He and his colleagues \u003ca href=\"http://www.pnas.org/content/early/2015/04/14/1419685112\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">reported\u003c/a> their findings last month in the \u003cem>Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_95862\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/14-19685-large1_wide-e022483580c487c7faff31376cbbed5726f52240-s800-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-95862\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/14-19685-large1_wide-e022483580c487c7faff31376cbbed5726f52240-s800-c85.jpg\" alt=\"A sweet rainbow: Americans like their sweet potatoes orange and packed with sugar. But in Africa, yellow and white varieties are also popular. They tend to be less sweet.\" width=\"800\" height=\"449\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/14-19685-large1_wide-e022483580c487c7faff31376cbbed5726f52240-s800-c85.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/14-19685-large1_wide-e022483580c487c7faff31376cbbed5726f52240-s800-c85-400x225.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sweet rainbow: Americans like their sweet potatoes orange and packed with sugar. But in Africa, yellow and white varieties are also popular. They tend to be less sweet. \u003ccite>( Image courtesy of the International Potato Center (CIP) )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Kreuze thinks the extra DNA helped with the domestication of the sugary vegetable in Central or South America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweet potatoes aren't tubers, like potatoes. They're roots — swollen, puffed-up parts of the root. \"We think the bacteria genes help the plant produce two hormones that change the root and make it something edible,\" Kreuze tells Goats and Soda. \"We need to prove that, but right now, we can't find any sweet potatoes without these genes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When our ancestors started to farm sweet potatoes, Krezue says, they very likely noticed the puffed up root and selected plants that carried the foreign genes. The genes stuck around as the sweet potato spread across the globe — first to Polynesia and Southeast Asia, then to Europe and Africa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, the sweet potato is the world's seventh most important crop, in terms of pounds of food produced, the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations \u003ca href=\"http://www.fao.org/wairdocs/tac/x5791e/x5791e0q.htm\">says\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In the U.S., it seems to be important only at Thanksgiving,\" Kreuze jokes. \"But in parts of Africa, it's a staple crop. It's very robust. When every other crop fails, sweet potatoes still grow.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In China, sweet potatoes are used to feed livestock. And in many other places, people saute the plant's leaves to make a yummy dish called sweet potato greens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All these farmers — whether they're tending to backyard plots in Rwanda or megafarms in China — are raising a natural GMO.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I don't think that's all that surprising,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.cspinet.org/about/cspi_staff.html\">Greg Jaffe\u003c/a>, the GMO expert at the Center for Science in the Public Interest in Washington. \"Anyone who's familiar with genetic engineering wouldn't be surprised that the [bacteria] \u003cem>Agrobacterium\u003c/em> inserted some DNA into some crops.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Making GM plants is surprisingly easy.* Scientists take a few plant cells and mix them with a special bacterium, called \u003ca href=\"http://www.apsnet.org/publications/apsnetfeatures/Pages/Agrobacterium.aspx\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Agrobacterium\u003c/a>. The microbe acts a bit like a virus: It injects a little chunk of DNA into the plant cells — which eventually finds its way to the plant's genome.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Biologists then coax the engineered cells to replicate and grow into an entire plant, with roots and shoots. Every cell in that plant then contains the bacteria's genes. \u003cem>Voila!\u003c/em> You have a GM plant. (Unlike animals, plants don't have to grow from an embryo. Many species can sprout up out from a variety of cell types.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Agrobacterium \u003c/em>is ubiquitous in soils all around the world — and infects more than 140 plants species. So it doesn't take much imagination to see how the bacteria's DNA could eventually find its way into our food. \"I suspect if you look in more crops, you'd find other examples,\" Jaffe says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So why does an 8,000-year-old GM sweet potato matter? The example might be helpful for regulators and scientists looking at the safety of GM crops, Jaffe says. \"In many African countries, some regulators and scientists are skeptical and have some concerns about whether these crops are safe,\" Jaffe says. \"This study will probably give them some comfort. It puts this technology into context.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the study won't assuage many consumers' worries about GMOs, Jaffe says. \"A lot people's concerns aren't just about whether what the scientists have done is natural or whether the crops are safe to eat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many people worry about whether GMOs increase the use of pesticides and herbicides. Or that some companies use the technology to make seeds intellectual property. \"In these instance, you have to look at the GMO on a case-by-case basis,\" Jaffe says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the case of sweet potatoes, at least, the world seems clear on all those fronts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>*There are several other ways to make GM plants. For example, another method uses a gun to shoot DNA-coated gold particles into plant cells.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"People have been farming — and eating — a GMO for thousands of years without knowing it. Scientists have found genes from bacteria in sweet potatoes around the world. So who made the GMO?","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1556669829,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":23,"wordCount":838},"headData":{"title":"Natural GMO? Sweet Potato Genetically Modified 8,000 Years Ago | KQED","description":"People have been farming — and eating — a GMO for thousands of years without knowing it. Scientists have found genes from bacteria in sweet potatoes around the world. So who made the GMO?","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"95854 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=95854","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/05/05/natural-gmo-sweet-potato-genetically-modified-8000-years-ago/","disqusTitle":"Natural GMO? Sweet Potato Genetically Modified 8,000 Years Ago","nprByline":"Michaeleen Doucleff, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\" />NPR Food\u003c/a> ","nprStoryId":"404198552","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=404198552&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/goatsandsoda/2015/05/05/404198552/natural-gmo-sweet-potato-genetically-modified-8-000-years-ago?ft=nprml&f=404198552","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 05 May 2015 14:51:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 05 May 2015 13:19:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 05 May 2015 14:51:20 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/95854/natural-gmo-sweet-potato-genetically-modified-8000-years-ago","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The first genetically modified crop wasn't made by a megacorporation. Or a college scientist trying to design a more durable tomato. Nope. Nature did it -- at least 8,000 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, actually bacteria in the soil were the engineers. And the microbe's handiwork is present in sweet potatoes all around the world today.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scientists at the International Potato Center in Lima, Peru, have found genes from bacteria in 291 sweet potato varieties, including ones grown in the U.S., Indonesia, China, parts of South America and Africa. The findings suggest bacteria inserted the genes into the crop's wild ancestor, long before humans started cooking up sweet potato fries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People have been eating a GMO for thousands of years without knowing it,\" says virologist \u003ca href=\"http://cipotato.org/press-room/press-releases/international-potato-center-receives-grand-challenges-explorations-grant-for-groundbreaking-research-in-global-health-and-development/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Jan Kreuze\u003c/a>, who led the study. He and his colleagues \u003ca href=\"http://www.pnas.org/content/early/2015/04/14/1419685112\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">reported\u003c/a> their findings last month in the \u003cem>Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_95862\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/14-19685-large1_wide-e022483580c487c7faff31376cbbed5726f52240-s800-c85.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-95862\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/14-19685-large1_wide-e022483580c487c7faff31376cbbed5726f52240-s800-c85.jpg\" alt=\"A sweet rainbow: Americans like their sweet potatoes orange and packed with sugar. But in Africa, yellow and white varieties are also popular. They tend to be less sweet.\" width=\"800\" height=\"449\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/14-19685-large1_wide-e022483580c487c7faff31376cbbed5726f52240-s800-c85.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/14-19685-large1_wide-e022483580c487c7faff31376cbbed5726f52240-s800-c85-400x225.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sweet rainbow: Americans like their sweet potatoes orange and packed with sugar. But in Africa, yellow and white varieties are also popular. They tend to be less sweet. \u003ccite>( Image courtesy of the International Potato Center (CIP) )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Kreuze thinks the extra DNA helped with the domestication of the sugary vegetable in Central or South America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweet potatoes aren't tubers, like potatoes. They're roots — swollen, puffed-up parts of the root. \"We think the bacteria genes help the plant produce two hormones that change the root and make it something edible,\" Kreuze tells Goats and Soda. \"We need to prove that, but right now, we can't find any sweet potatoes without these genes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When our ancestors started to farm sweet potatoes, Krezue says, they very likely noticed the puffed up root and selected plants that carried the foreign genes. The genes stuck around as the sweet potato spread across the globe — first to Polynesia and Southeast Asia, then to Europe and Africa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, the sweet potato is the world's seventh most important crop, in terms of pounds of food produced, the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations \u003ca href=\"http://www.fao.org/wairdocs/tac/x5791e/x5791e0q.htm\">says\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"In the U.S., it seems to be important only at Thanksgiving,\" Kreuze jokes. \"But in parts of Africa, it's a staple crop. It's very robust. When every other crop fails, sweet potatoes still grow.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In China, sweet potatoes are used to feed livestock. And in many other places, people saute the plant's leaves to make a yummy dish called sweet potato greens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All these farmers — whether they're tending to backyard plots in Rwanda or megafarms in China — are raising a natural GMO.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I don't think that's all that surprising,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.cspinet.org/about/cspi_staff.html\">Greg Jaffe\u003c/a>, the GMO expert at the Center for Science in the Public Interest in Washington. \"Anyone who's familiar with genetic engineering wouldn't be surprised that the [bacteria] \u003cem>Agrobacterium\u003c/em> inserted some DNA into some crops.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Making GM plants is surprisingly easy.* Scientists take a few plant cells and mix them with a special bacterium, called \u003ca href=\"http://www.apsnet.org/publications/apsnetfeatures/Pages/Agrobacterium.aspx\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Agrobacterium\u003c/a>. The microbe acts a bit like a virus: It injects a little chunk of DNA into the plant cells — which eventually finds its way to the plant's genome.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Biologists then coax the engineered cells to replicate and grow into an entire plant, with roots and shoots. Every cell in that plant then contains the bacteria's genes. \u003cem>Voila!\u003c/em> You have a GM plant. (Unlike animals, plants don't have to grow from an embryo. Many species can sprout up out from a variety of cell types.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Agrobacterium \u003c/em>is ubiquitous in soils all around the world — and infects more than 140 plants species. So it doesn't take much imagination to see how the bacteria's DNA could eventually find its way into our food. \"I suspect if you look in more crops, you'd find other examples,\" Jaffe says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So why does an 8,000-year-old GM sweet potato matter? The example might be helpful for regulators and scientists looking at the safety of GM crops, Jaffe says. \"In many African countries, some regulators and scientists are skeptical and have some concerns about whether these crops are safe,\" Jaffe says. \"This study will probably give them some comfort. It puts this technology into context.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the study won't assuage many consumers' worries about GMOs, Jaffe says. \"A lot people's concerns aren't just about whether what the scientists have done is natural or whether the crops are safe to eat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many people worry about whether GMOs increase the use of pesticides and herbicides. Or that some companies use the technology to make seeds intellectual property. \"In these instance, you have to look at the GMO on a case-by-case basis,\" Jaffe says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the case of sweet potatoes, at least, the world seems clear on all those fronts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>*There are several other ways to make GM plants. For example, another method uses a gun to shoot DNA-coated gold particles into plant cells.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/95854/natural-gmo-sweet-potato-genetically-modified-8000-years-ago","authors":["byline_bayareabites_95854"],"categories":["bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_1608","bayareabites_14775","bayareabites_11497","bayareabites_10771","bayareabites_2961"],"featImg":"bayareabites_95855","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_95791":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_95791","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"95791","score":null,"sort":[1430476823000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"rooibos-tea-the-myth-and-the-magic","title":"Rooibos Tea: The Myth and the Magic","publishDate":1430476823,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>I’m not a coffee drinker, but I do love my tea. For years I greeted each day with a steaming mug of Earl Grey tea by my side. In the afternoon I would make another pot of black or green tea, sipping my way through the rest of the workday. But when I started having trouble sleeping a few years ago, I cut out almost all caffeine -- with the exception of small amounts of dark chocolate, crucial to my existence. Saying goodbye to tea was tough, but I found rooibos tea -- AKA “red tea” -- to be a satisfying, caffeine-free stand-in for my usual brew. I liked its earthy flavor, and it was full-bodied enough to support a splash of milk. Plus, I was still reaping the benefits of all those antioxidants and other magical chemical compounds found in tea -- or so I thought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In truth, rooibos is not tea at all. It’s not even a distant relative to the tea plant (\u003cem>Camellia sinensis\u003c/em>). Rooibos is an herbal infusion made from a plant called \u003cem>Aspalathus linearis\u003c/em> that’s native to South Africa, where it thrives in the wild and as a cultivated crop. The word rooibos (pronounced roy-bus) translates as “red bush,” which refers to the way that the green, needle-shaped leaves turn red when they fall off the bush and oxidize in the sun. Most rooibos tea is made from these oxidized leaves, although a variety known as “green rooibos” is crafted from leaves that do not undergo oxidization.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rooibos leaves are often blended with fragrant spices, dried fruits and other flavors the same way that black teas are. I’m partial to rooibos chai, like the one made by \u003ca href=\"http://shop.numitea.com/Rooibos-Chai/p/NUMIS-10200&c=NumiTeaStore@Teabag@Herbal\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Numi\u003c/a> of Oakland and \u003ca href=\"http://www.teavana.com/the-teas/rooibos-teas\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Teavana’s\u003c/a> Dosha Chai, a loose-leaf blend that contains cinnamon, coconut, ginger, cardamom, vanilla and rose blossoms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_95801\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/teavana-CU-opt.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-95801\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/teavana-CU-opt.jpg\" alt=\"Teavana’s Dosha Chai blend.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/teavana-CU-opt.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/teavana-CU-opt-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/teavana-CU-opt-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/teavana-CU-opt-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/teavana-CU-opt-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/teavana-CU-opt-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Teavana’s Dosha Chai blend. \u003ccite>(Lisa Landers)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Although long popular in South Africa, rooibos was virtually unheard of in the U.S. until 2001, when Marin County based \u003ca href=\"http://www.republicoftea.com/?gclid=CMCXtOWJncUCFYpgfgod2HoA-Q\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Republic of Tea\u003c/a> start selling it. Today, rooibos is sold by many other companies, but they all import it from South Africa, according to The Republic of Tea’s Minister of Commerce, Kristina Richens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There have been attempts to grow it in other places without any success. It only seems to thrive in South Africa’s unique subclimate,” Richens says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The company’s rooibos sales have climbed steadily over the past 14 years. Their current menu includes more than 30 blends. One of their biggest sellers is Double Red Rooibos, a concoction that contains rooibos powder (pulverized leaves) to enrich the taste and color of the brew.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_95799\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rooibos-glassopt.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-95799\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rooibos-glassopt.jpg\" alt=\"The Republic of Tea’s most popular rooibos teas.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1420\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rooibos-glassopt.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rooibos-glassopt-400x296.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rooibos-glassopt-800x592.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rooibos-glassopt-1440x1065.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rooibos-glassopt-1180x873.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rooibos-glassopt-960x710.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Republic of Tea’s most popular rooibos teas. \u003ccite>(Lisa Landers)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I probably assumed that rooibos was an actual tea because of blends like Double Red Rooibos, that do taste a little like black tea. The myth is also perpetrated by tea purveyors, some of whom market rooibos alongside oolongs, pu-erhs and other real teas without listing it as herbal or making a clear distinction to customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The good news is that despite not being an actual, antioxidant-packed tea, studies suggest that rooibos does have some magic of its own to offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beyond the Hype, Potential Health Benefits\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_95800\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Teavana-counter-opt.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-95800\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Teavana-counter-opt.jpg\" alt=\"Teavana offers multiple rooibos blends in their Corte Madera store.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1439\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Teavana-counter-opt.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Teavana-counter-opt-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Teavana-counter-opt-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Teavana-counter-opt-1440x1079.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Teavana-counter-opt-1180x884.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Teavana-counter-opt-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Teavana offers multiple rooibos blends in their Corte Madera store. \u003ccite>(Lisa Landers)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Hype about rooibos’ potential health benefits may have peaked in the U.S. last week when Time Magazine listed it as one of the \u003ca href=\"http://time.com/3724505/50-healthiest-foods/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">50 healthiest foods of all time\u003c/a>. Although it’s tempting to write it off as just another trend set in motion by our superfood-obsessed culture, South Africans have long touted rooibos as a wonder bush with medicinal properties. For hundreds of years it's been purported to help alleviate symptoms associated with asthma, eczema, heartburn, insomnia and nausea, among other problems.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Evidence to support these claims is largely anecdotal, but there is a growing body of science-based research that suggests rooibos may offer a number of impressive health benefits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One thing we do know for sure is that rooibos is rich in beneficial polyphenols, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16927447\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">two rare flavonoids known as aspalathin and nothofagin\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11566638\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Flavonoids\u003c/a> are generally known for their potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-tumor and antiviral activities, many of which play a role in helping our bodies fend off chronic diseases. But studies of the specific flavonoids found in red tea have not been studied as extensively as others.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The South African Rooibos Council posted on its website a roundup of a \u003ca href=\"http://www.sarooibos.org.za/images/the-science-behind-rooibos-july2013.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">wide range of promising studies\u003c/a> conducted between 2009 and 2013, including research into rooibos’ ability to offer cardiovascular protection, help prevent diabetes, improve male fertility and \u003ca href=\"http://www.sarooibos.org.za/home-mainmenu-1/179-rooibos-helps-protect-against-skin-cancer\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">inhibit the development skin cancer when applied topically\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The catch is that most of the studies to date have been conducted in test tubes or with rats, as opposed to actual human beings. That said, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20833235\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">one clinical study\u003c/a> out of South Africa did catch my eye. After 40 human volunteers drank six cups of fermented rooibos daily for six weeks, researchers found that the tea had significantly reduced “bad” cholesterol (LDL), and increased “good” cholesterol (HDL). The study also suggested “the antioxidant activity of the tea could be relevant in reducing the risk of developing cardiovascular disease.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless of what further research yields, it seems to me that there are already plenty of good reasons to swap your usual hot beverage for a mug of rooibos tea on occasion. It’s tasty, calorie- and caffeine-free, and perfect for washing down a piece of dark chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Disclaimer: Although adverse reactions to rooibos have not been reported, people that are ill, have pre-existing health conditions or are taking medications should consult a physician.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Also known as “red tea,” rooibos tea offers potential health benefits, but marketing strategies can mislead consumers.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1556738671,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":18,"wordCount":987},"headData":{"title":"Rooibos Tea: The Myth and the Magic | KQED","description":"Also known as “red tea,” rooibos tea offers potential health benefits, but marketing strategies can mislead consumers.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"95791 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=95791","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/05/01/rooibos-tea-the-myth-and-the-magic/","disqusTitle":"Rooibos Tea: The Myth and the Magic","path":"/bayareabites/95791/rooibos-tea-the-myth-and-the-magic","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>I’m not a coffee drinker, but I do love my tea. For years I greeted each day with a steaming mug of Earl Grey tea by my side. In the afternoon I would make another pot of black or green tea, sipping my way through the rest of the workday. But when I started having trouble sleeping a few years ago, I cut out almost all caffeine -- with the exception of small amounts of dark chocolate, crucial to my existence. Saying goodbye to tea was tough, but I found rooibos tea -- AKA “red tea” -- to be a satisfying, caffeine-free stand-in for my usual brew. I liked its earthy flavor, and it was full-bodied enough to support a splash of milk. Plus, I was still reaping the benefits of all those antioxidants and other magical chemical compounds found in tea -- or so I thought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In truth, rooibos is not tea at all. It’s not even a distant relative to the tea plant (\u003cem>Camellia sinensis\u003c/em>). Rooibos is an herbal infusion made from a plant called \u003cem>Aspalathus linearis\u003c/em> that’s native to South Africa, where it thrives in the wild and as a cultivated crop. The word rooibos (pronounced roy-bus) translates as “red bush,” which refers to the way that the green, needle-shaped leaves turn red when they fall off the bush and oxidize in the sun. Most rooibos tea is made from these oxidized leaves, although a variety known as “green rooibos” is crafted from leaves that do not undergo oxidization.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rooibos leaves are often blended with fragrant spices, dried fruits and other flavors the same way that black teas are. I’m partial to rooibos chai, like the one made by \u003ca href=\"http://shop.numitea.com/Rooibos-Chai/p/NUMIS-10200&c=NumiTeaStore@Teabag@Herbal\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Numi\u003c/a> of Oakland and \u003ca href=\"http://www.teavana.com/the-teas/rooibos-teas\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Teavana’s\u003c/a> Dosha Chai, a loose-leaf blend that contains cinnamon, coconut, ginger, cardamom, vanilla and rose blossoms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_95801\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/teavana-CU-opt.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-95801\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/teavana-CU-opt.jpg\" alt=\"Teavana’s Dosha Chai blend.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/teavana-CU-opt.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/teavana-CU-opt-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/teavana-CU-opt-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/teavana-CU-opt-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/teavana-CU-opt-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/teavana-CU-opt-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Teavana’s Dosha Chai blend. \u003ccite>(Lisa Landers)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Although long popular in South Africa, rooibos was virtually unheard of in the U.S. until 2001, when Marin County based \u003ca href=\"http://www.republicoftea.com/?gclid=CMCXtOWJncUCFYpgfgod2HoA-Q\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Republic of Tea\u003c/a> start selling it. Today, rooibos is sold by many other companies, but they all import it from South Africa, according to The Republic of Tea’s Minister of Commerce, Kristina Richens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There have been attempts to grow it in other places without any success. It only seems to thrive in South Africa’s unique subclimate,” Richens says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The company’s rooibos sales have climbed steadily over the past 14 years. Their current menu includes more than 30 blends. One of their biggest sellers is Double Red Rooibos, a concoction that contains rooibos powder (pulverized leaves) to enrich the taste and color of the brew.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_95799\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rooibos-glassopt.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-95799\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rooibos-glassopt.jpg\" alt=\"The Republic of Tea’s most popular rooibos teas.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1420\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rooibos-glassopt.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rooibos-glassopt-400x296.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rooibos-glassopt-800x592.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rooibos-glassopt-1440x1065.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rooibos-glassopt-1180x873.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rooibos-glassopt-960x710.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Republic of Tea’s most popular rooibos teas. \u003ccite>(Lisa Landers)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I probably assumed that rooibos was an actual tea because of blends like Double Red Rooibos, that do taste a little like black tea. The myth is also perpetrated by tea purveyors, some of whom market rooibos alongside oolongs, pu-erhs and other real teas without listing it as herbal or making a clear distinction to customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The good news is that despite not being an actual, antioxidant-packed tea, studies suggest that rooibos does have some magic of its own to offer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Beyond the Hype, Potential Health Benefits\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_95800\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Teavana-counter-opt.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-95800\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Teavana-counter-opt.jpg\" alt=\"Teavana offers multiple rooibos blends in their Corte Madera store.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1439\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Teavana-counter-opt.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Teavana-counter-opt-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Teavana-counter-opt-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Teavana-counter-opt-1440x1079.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Teavana-counter-opt-1180x884.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/Teavana-counter-opt-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Teavana offers multiple rooibos blends in their Corte Madera store. \u003ccite>(Lisa Landers)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Hype about rooibos’ potential health benefits may have peaked in the U.S. last week when Time Magazine listed it as one of the \u003ca href=\"http://time.com/3724505/50-healthiest-foods/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">50 healthiest foods of all time\u003c/a>. Although it’s tempting to write it off as just another trend set in motion by our superfood-obsessed culture, South Africans have long touted rooibos as a wonder bush with medicinal properties. For hundreds of years it's been purported to help alleviate symptoms associated with asthma, eczema, heartburn, insomnia and nausea, among other problems.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Evidence to support these claims is largely anecdotal, but there is a growing body of science-based research that suggests rooibos may offer a number of impressive health benefits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One thing we do know for sure is that rooibos is rich in beneficial polyphenols, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16927447\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">two rare flavonoids known as aspalathin and nothofagin\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11566638\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Flavonoids\u003c/a> are generally known for their potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-tumor and antiviral activities, many of which play a role in helping our bodies fend off chronic diseases. But studies of the specific flavonoids found in red tea have not been studied as extensively as others.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The South African Rooibos Council posted on its website a roundup of a \u003ca href=\"http://www.sarooibos.org.za/images/the-science-behind-rooibos-july2013.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">wide range of promising studies\u003c/a> conducted between 2009 and 2013, including research into rooibos’ ability to offer cardiovascular protection, help prevent diabetes, improve male fertility and \u003ca href=\"http://www.sarooibos.org.za/home-mainmenu-1/179-rooibos-helps-protect-against-skin-cancer\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">inhibit the development skin cancer when applied topically\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The catch is that most of the studies to date have been conducted in test tubes or with rats, as opposed to actual human beings. That said, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20833235\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">one clinical study\u003c/a> out of South Africa did catch my eye. After 40 human volunteers drank six cups of fermented rooibos daily for six weeks, researchers found that the tea had significantly reduced “bad” cholesterol (LDL), and increased “good” cholesterol (HDL). The study also suggested “the antioxidant activity of the tea could be relevant in reducing the risk of developing cardiovascular disease.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless of what further research yields, it seems to me that there are already plenty of good reasons to swap your usual hot beverage for a mug of rooibos tea on occasion. It’s tasty, calorie- and caffeine-free, and perfect for washing down a piece of dark chocolate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Disclaimer: Although adverse reactions to rooibos have not been reported, people that are ill, have pre-existing health conditions or are taking medications should consult a physician.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/95791/rooibos-tea-the-myth-and-the-magic","authors":["5412"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_1248"],"tags":["bayareabites_16403","bayareabites_1608","bayareabites_16402","bayareabites_165"],"featImg":"bayareabites_95797","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/possible-5gxfizEbKOJ-pbF5ASgxrs_.1400x1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. 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But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/powerpress/1440_0018_AmericanSuburb_iTunesTile_01.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/powerpress/1440_0017_BayCurious_iTunesTile_01.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2021/10/BBC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/CodeSwitchLifeKit_StationGraphics_300x300EmailGraphic.png","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. 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