For Portland, we don’t really make sandwiches. We’re doing a panwich--of course (laughs). It’s an open pancake-wich, made with a pancake, and a little pork belly, sweet corn, Romesco sauce and a pile of greens. Then you fold it.

Bay Area Bites: Are there any dishes you are more excited about getting back to or bringing to the menu? And are there some dishes you would rather take off the menu?
Brioza: I am excited about the State Bird Provisions dish. I love that dish. There’s only a few dishes we can’t touch and one is the quail. The other is the garlic bread with the burrata. It’s almost an untouchable dish. I still really like it.

Bay Area Bites: Where do you get your inspiration from—books, people, places, websites?
Brioza: The question of inspiration is an interesting one and arises from different areas. I think that now more so than ever I get inspiration from paying attention to my surroundings and people. Inspiration and creativity is really quite powerful. Years ago I got inspired from books and dining out—that was also an impressionable time for me. Then I think something happened and I’m in this new place where I’m more inspired by the stories the food tells than the actual dishes themselves. I’m kind of on my own little path and don’t find a lot of inspiration coming from books. The stories that come from books are really quite fascinating. For me, paying attention is where the inspiration is: being in the markets, talking to your staff and other chefs, that’s kind of where it comes from. Gone are the days where I could go cover to cover in a cookbook.

Pork spare ribs with shichimi togarashi, glazed in their own juices. Photo: Mary Ladd

Bay Area Bites: After work, are there any spots you like to go to?
Brioza: Nopa is great and it’s not far away and open late. Nearby, Sheba Lounge is a cool little spot and on some nights they’ll play music really late. It’s pretty rare that I go. I think every restaurant has to have a local bar, that place you don’t have to get in a cab to, and you can just walk there.

Bay Area Bites: What are the worst and best parts of your job?
Brioza: The best honestly is just walking through the door every day. I really like working with the staff every day. I created a process with the staff for when we open the doors. It’s a rush, and pretty powerful. Everyone feels good and is welcoming guests.

The worst is the not knowing. You’re not ready for the toilet backing up. You’re never really ready for that, no matter how much you plan for it, no matter who you are. Or having someone cut themselves--pretty much anything that detracts from the mission is the worst.

Bay Area Bites: During your time off, what do you do?
Brioza: We’re not bored with what we do yet. It’s still an important topic. I love to go car camping and the simple things like sitting around the campfire. We’re always looking for new parks within an hour of us. You’re taken outside of your world and still an hour away from your home.

Bay Area Bites: Anything we can expect in the future—books, travel, food, products?
Brioza: There’s always that conversation of a cookbook. We’re not there yet. Obviously we’ve got a whole new restaurant that we’re working on. That’ll be within the year. I think we’ve got enough on our plate. We’re still riding that wave. It’s the best place to be for us.

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Stuart Brioza: State Bird Provisions, Panwiches and Renovation Planning