The roast beef itself, while tender, rare, and well seasoned, is the least remarkable aspect of the sandwich. Even the lettuce is handled with care and has a fresh, distinct crunch that brings necessary textural contrast. A generous smear of housemade mayonnaise melts into the bread; its luscious creaminess and faint sweetness will make even Duke’s fans forget about the store-bought spread. The horseradish-spiked cream cheese slathered on the top half of the bread isn’t particularly spicy, but you certainly won’t forget it’s there. Then there are the smoked pickled onions. I’m not sure how Leary figured out how to get smoke into those vinegary slivers, but I’m just fine leaving this one particular food a mystery. Tang, smoke, and crunch are the perfect foil to the lean roast beef.

Leary’s roast beef sandwich comes with house made mayonnaise, crisp lettuce, smoked pickled onions, and horseradish cream cheese. Photo: Kate Williams

But the best part of the sandwich is that eggy, brioche-like bread. Tear off a corner to eat on its own for a sweet and rich taste of what all sandwiches should be upon. Like a good burger bun, the hearty slices are substantial enough to support the generous filling, but they also squish down so it’s possible to get all the components in one bite. Leary’s bread will make you wonder why anyone would serve a sandwich on crusty bread, or (even more jarring) a crisp baguette.

I’m not one to pass up on a sandwich, so I eschewed the salads that day. But both the chicken and kale salad and the vegetarian asparagus and mushroom salad on the menu that day were a common sight in the dining room. Both are served, happily, with the wonderful bread.

A $15 sandwich and beer lunch isn’t going to replace my usual cheapskate meal of whatever leftovers are in the fridge, but it’s certainly worth the trip every once in awhile—at least until I can figure out how to have Leary’s bread in my kitchen 24/7.

Information:
Cafe Terminus
Address: Map
16 California Street
San Francisco, CA 94111
(415) 952-0481

Hours:
Mon-Fri 7am-2am, Sat 4:30pm-2am, Sun 4:30pm-10pm

Facebook: Cafe Terminus
Twitter: @CafeTerminusSF

Eric PassettiEric Passetti

Dennis Leary’s Chef-Crafted Sandwiches at Cafe Terminus are an Excellent Lunch Choice