LocoL Oakland Opens with Cheap, Tasty Burgs and Bowls
Holiday Cookbook Gift Guide: How to Match the Perfect Gift to Just the Right Gift-ee
2012 Eat Real Festival: Day 3 Highlights
Chef Profile: Maverick’s Emmanuel Eng
Let Them Cook For You: Haven
Food Secrets of Chef/Restaurateur/Writer Daniel Patterson
Interview with Amanda Hesser, The Essential New York Times Cookbook
Commis is Crackin'
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Her writing has been featured in SF Weekly, Tasting Table, the San Francisco Chronicle and elsewhere. She has shuttled \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2009/03/26/eater_map_mr_bourdains_san_francisco_whereabouts.php\">Anthony Bourdain\u003c/a> around town and mastered the art of properly loading a catering van in a flash. Mary has eaten the world’s hottest burger and loves to cook and eat. 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In fact, when I showed up at the Broadway Street location in Oakland around 5:30 p.m. on opening day, Wednesday, May 25, I thought for a second that the \"special event\" parking rate in the garage on the corner was for the opening of the small restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109739\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol.jpg\" alt=\"Locol, on Broadway in Oakland\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1079\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109739\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol-1440x809.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol-1180x663.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Locol, on Broadway in Oakland \u003ccite>(Kelly O'Mara)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It wasn't. The special event was actually the high school graduation happening at the Paramount Theater across the street. And the bustling neighborhood traffic was far more concerned with getting to their kids' event or getting home from work than with the opening of a new neighborhood restaurant. But maybe that's how a local community spot is supposed to be, just nestled in between everything else. (Or, reportedly, the lines were all there earlier in the day.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>LocoL is the second location for Choi and Patterson. The first opened in Watts about four months ago. The Bay Area spot was originally planned for the Tenderloin, but delays have pushed that opening back. Instead Choi, known for his \u003ca href=\"http://kogibbq.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Kogi BBQ trucks\u003c/a>, and Patterson, who owns restaurants \u003ca href=\"http://altaca.co/\" target=\"_blank\">Alta\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Coi\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://plumbaroakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Plum Bar\u003c/a> (around the corner), decided to bring their model of local, healthy, affordable food to the neighborhood around Broadway and Grand in Oakland. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea, which \u003ca href=\"https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/locol-revolutionary-fast-food#/\" target=\"_blank\">raised $129,000 on IndieGoGo\u003c/a>, is to bring relatively healthy and very tasty fast food to what were previously food deserts, where locals will be employed to run the kitchens and drive the menus. In the space formerly occupied by Plum, around the corner from the still open Plum Bar, this location isn't in exactly a food desert. But it's still tasty, cheap, and community-driven, and more locations are planned for West Oakland and that delayed Tenderloin project.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109741\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol3.jpg\" alt=\"The menu is affordable and items have quirky names\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109741\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol3.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol3-400x533.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol3-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol3-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol3-1440x1920.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol3-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol3-960x1280.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu is affordable and items have quirky names \u003ccite>(Kelly O'Mara)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Oakland space is medium-sized, with about 25 people fitting comfortably when I was there. It felt bustling, loud, and busy, but not overwhelmingly so. While there was a DJ blasting music in the corner, I'm guessing he was primarily there for the opening. There is a small open kitchen, with orders handed over the counter on trays. In between the signature murals on the walls, the floor is filled with wooden boxes, designed to be moved around -- which a group of kids was having fun doing over and over -- and used as tables or chairs. There are also a handful of seats and a counter outside in the small square. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109740\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol1.jpg\" alt=\"The space features giant murals and photos, with wooden boxes designed to be moved for seats or tables.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109740\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol1-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol1-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol1-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol1-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The space features giant murals and photos, with wooden boxes designed to be moved for seats or tables. \u003ccite>(Kelly O'Mara)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I was handed a \u003ca href=\"http://www.welocol.com/#oakmenu\" target=\"_blank\">menu\u003c/a> as soon as I walked through door, which consists of what they're calling \"burgs\" and \"bowls\" -- variations on burgers and rice or noodle bowls, all in the $5-7 range. There are also \"foldies\" and \"crunchies,\" ie. quesadilla-type things and nuggets, as well as $2 sides (known as \"yotchays\") like flat breads, corn chips, and slaw. Different kinds of breakfast sandwiches, yogurt and granola, and French toast holes (which sound amazing) are $3-5.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109743\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol7.jpg\" alt=\"The locol cheesburg\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109743\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol7.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol7-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol7-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol7-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol7-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol7-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol7-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The locol cheesburg \u003ccite>(Kelly O'Mara)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I ordered the Locol Cheesburg, which comes with jack cheese, scallion relish, and \"awesome sauce.\" Since I don't love relish, I almost asked for it without, but that would have been a mistake. The combination was delicious. I had expected something more along the lines of the local high-end burger shacks, like Weezy's or Super Duper, but this was something else entirely, with lots of different flavors mixing together. Even the buns were unique, denser than traditional hamburger buns -- which shouldn't come as surprise, since Chad Robertson of Tartine helped them develop the recipe for the bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was only later that I put together exactly what it was the burger tasted like to me. Down in L.A., I used to go to Choi's \u003ca href=\"http://www.alibiroomla.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Alibi Room restaurant\u003c/a> for Korean burritos that always had unexpected, but amazing, flavor combinations. This burg was distinctly from the same chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Searching for something that resembled fries -- which aren't an option on this one-of-a-kind fast food menu -- I also ordered the side of flatbread. It ended up being my favorite thing of the night. Light and fluffy, but slightly sweet, it could have passed for a healthier dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I topped all that off with a strawberry-lime agua fresca, because I have a soft spot for really good agua fresca. The only problem was it was gone way too quickly -- the one thing that wasn't completely filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109744\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol8.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol8.jpg\" alt=\"The messy chili bowl and a flatbread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109744\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol8.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol8-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol8-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol8-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol8-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol8-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol8-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The messy chili bowl and a flatbread. \u003ccite>(Kelly O'Mara)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Wanting to explore the whole menu, I also tried the messy chili bowl. It's a multi-layered bowl, coming covered in a topping of crackers and cheese and a dabble of spicy sauce, so that you can't even seen what might be beneath. But once you start digging in, there's meat, beans, and at the bottom a layer of rice, which was an unexpected but welcome surprise. Since I couldn't finish the bowl, I grabbed a lid from the shelf of utensils and napkins, took it home, and heated it back up for a late-night snack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And all that cost me less than $20. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.welocol.com/\" target=\"_blank\">LocoL\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2214 Broadway St. [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/n8oyZE\" target=\"_blank\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94612\u003cbr>\nHours: everyday, 8am-8pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/welocolfood/\" target=\"_blank\">LocoL\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/welocol\" target=\"_blank\">@WeLocol\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"LocoL opens its first Bay Area location in Oakland, serving up affordable and healthy fast food.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1464371256,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":15,"wordCount":939},"headData":{"title":"LocoL Oakland Opens with Cheap, Tasty Burgs and Bowls | KQED","description":"LocoL opens its first Bay Area location in Oakland, serving up affordable and healthy fast food.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"LocoL Oakland Opens with Cheap, Tasty Burgs and Bowls","datePublished":"2016-05-26T17:56:52.000Z","dateModified":"2016-05-27T17:47:36.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"109738 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=109738","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/05/26/locol-oakland-opens-with-cheap-tasty-burgs-and-bowls/","disqusTitle":"LocoL Oakland Opens with Cheap, Tasty Burgs and Bowls","path":"/bayareabites/109738/locol-oakland-opens-with-cheap-tasty-burgs-and-bowls","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Given the hype surrounding the opening of \u003ca href=\"http://www.welocol.com/\" target=\"_blank\">LocoL\u003c/a>, the alternative fast food restaurant from Roy Choi and Daniel Patterson, I expected there to be a line around the block. In fact, when I showed up at the Broadway Street location in Oakland around 5:30 p.m. on opening day, Wednesday, May 25, I thought for a second that the \"special event\" parking rate in the garage on the corner was for the opening of the small restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109739\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol.jpg\" alt=\"Locol, on Broadway in Oakland\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1079\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109739\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol-1440x809.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol-1180x663.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Locol, on Broadway in Oakland \u003ccite>(Kelly O'Mara)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It wasn't. The special event was actually the high school graduation happening at the Paramount Theater across the street. And the bustling neighborhood traffic was far more concerned with getting to their kids' event or getting home from work than with the opening of a new neighborhood restaurant. But maybe that's how a local community spot is supposed to be, just nestled in between everything else. (Or, reportedly, the lines were all there earlier in the day.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>LocoL is the second location for Choi and Patterson. The first opened in Watts about four months ago. The Bay Area spot was originally planned for the Tenderloin, but delays have pushed that opening back. Instead Choi, known for his \u003ca href=\"http://kogibbq.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Kogi BBQ trucks\u003c/a>, and Patterson, who owns restaurants \u003ca href=\"http://altaca.co/\" target=\"_blank\">Alta\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Coi\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://plumbaroakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Plum Bar\u003c/a> (around the corner), decided to bring their model of local, healthy, affordable food to the neighborhood around Broadway and Grand in Oakland. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea, which \u003ca href=\"https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/locol-revolutionary-fast-food#/\" target=\"_blank\">raised $129,000 on IndieGoGo\u003c/a>, is to bring relatively healthy and very tasty fast food to what were previously food deserts, where locals will be employed to run the kitchens and drive the menus. In the space formerly occupied by Plum, around the corner from the still open Plum Bar, this location isn't in exactly a food desert. But it's still tasty, cheap, and community-driven, and more locations are planned for West Oakland and that delayed Tenderloin project.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109741\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol3.jpg\" alt=\"The menu is affordable and items have quirky names\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109741\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol3.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol3-400x533.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol3-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol3-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol3-1440x1920.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol3-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol3-960x1280.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu is affordable and items have quirky names \u003ccite>(Kelly O'Mara)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Oakland space is medium-sized, with about 25 people fitting comfortably when I was there. It felt bustling, loud, and busy, but not overwhelmingly so. While there was a DJ blasting music in the corner, I'm guessing he was primarily there for the opening. There is a small open kitchen, with orders handed over the counter on trays. In between the signature murals on the walls, the floor is filled with wooden boxes, designed to be moved around -- which a group of kids was having fun doing over and over -- and used as tables or chairs. There are also a handful of seats and a counter outside in the small square. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109740\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol1.jpg\" alt=\"The space features giant murals and photos, with wooden boxes designed to be moved for seats or tables.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109740\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol1-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol1-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol1-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol1-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The space features giant murals and photos, with wooden boxes designed to be moved for seats or tables. \u003ccite>(Kelly O'Mara)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I was handed a \u003ca href=\"http://www.welocol.com/#oakmenu\" target=\"_blank\">menu\u003c/a> as soon as I walked through door, which consists of what they're calling \"burgs\" and \"bowls\" -- variations on burgers and rice or noodle bowls, all in the $5-7 range. There are also \"foldies\" and \"crunchies,\" ie. quesadilla-type things and nuggets, as well as $2 sides (known as \"yotchays\") like flat breads, corn chips, and slaw. Different kinds of breakfast sandwiches, yogurt and granola, and French toast holes (which sound amazing) are $3-5.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109743\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol7.jpg\" alt=\"The locol cheesburg\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109743\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol7.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol7-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol7-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol7-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol7-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol7-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol7-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The locol cheesburg \u003ccite>(Kelly O'Mara)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I ordered the Locol Cheesburg, which comes with jack cheese, scallion relish, and \"awesome sauce.\" Since I don't love relish, I almost asked for it without, but that would have been a mistake. The combination was delicious. I had expected something more along the lines of the local high-end burger shacks, like Weezy's or Super Duper, but this was something else entirely, with lots of different flavors mixing together. Even the buns were unique, denser than traditional hamburger buns -- which shouldn't come as surprise, since Chad Robertson of Tartine helped them develop the recipe for the bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was only later that I put together exactly what it was the burger tasted like to me. Down in L.A., I used to go to Choi's \u003ca href=\"http://www.alibiroomla.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Alibi Room restaurant\u003c/a> for Korean burritos that always had unexpected, but amazing, flavor combinations. This burg was distinctly from the same chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Searching for something that resembled fries -- which aren't an option on this one-of-a-kind fast food menu -- I also ordered the side of flatbread. It ended up being my favorite thing of the night. Light and fluffy, but slightly sweet, it could have passed for a healthier dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I topped all that off with a strawberry-lime agua fresca, because I have a soft spot for really good agua fresca. The only problem was it was gone way too quickly -- the one thing that wasn't completely filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109744\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol8.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol8.jpg\" alt=\"The messy chili bowl and a flatbread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109744\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol8.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol8-400x300.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol8-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol8-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol8-1440x1080.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol8-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/locol8-960x720.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The messy chili bowl and a flatbread. \u003ccite>(Kelly O'Mara)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Wanting to explore the whole menu, I also tried the messy chili bowl. It's a multi-layered bowl, coming covered in a topping of crackers and cheese and a dabble of spicy sauce, so that you can't even seen what might be beneath. But once you start digging in, there's meat, beans, and at the bottom a layer of rice, which was an unexpected but welcome surprise. Since I couldn't finish the bowl, I grabbed a lid from the shelf of utensils and napkins, took it home, and heated it back up for a late-night snack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And all that cost me less than $20. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.welocol.com/\" target=\"_blank\">LocoL\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2214 Broadway St. [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/n8oyZE\" target=\"_blank\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nOakland, CA 94612\u003cbr>\nHours: everyday, 8am-8pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/welocolfood/\" target=\"_blank\">LocoL\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/welocol\" target=\"_blank\">@WeLocol\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPrice range: $\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/109738/locol-oakland-opens-with-cheap-tasty-burgs-and-bowls","authors":["1459"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_181"],"tags":["bayareabites_3999","bayareabites_15479","bayareabites_15480"],"featImg":"bayareabites_109742","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_75055":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_75055","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"75055","score":null,"sort":[1387302471000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"holiday-cookbook-gift-guide-how-to-match-the-perfect-gift-to-just-the-right-gift-ee","title":"Holiday Cookbook Gift Guide: How to Match the Perfect Gift to Just the Right Gift-ee ","publishDate":1387302471,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Lots of beautiful cookbooks from Bay Area restaurants, chefs, and writers are gracing our shelves this year. But how to match the perfect gift to just the right gift-ee? We've paired our favorite food and wine books with those most likely to appreciate them. And remember the great benefit of giving cookbooks: anyone to whom you give one of these great books should feel compelled to cook from it for you at least once. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Fancy Diners Who Actually Use Their Kitchen\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743973/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Manresa: An Edible Reflection\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by David Kinch\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0714865907/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Coi: Stories and Recipes\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Daniel Patterson\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Manresa600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Manresa600.jpg\" alt=\"Manresa: An Edible Reflection by David Kinch\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75178\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps (lucky you!) these are your in-laws or longtime family friends, these well-heeled folks who have actually, gracefully, splattered their copy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579651267/kqedorg-20\">The French Laundry Cookbook\u003c/a> with use. Want to keep getting invited to their wonderful dinner parties? Splurge on a copy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743973/kqedorg-20\">Manresa: An Edible Reflection\u003c/a>, by chef David Kinch. This is a big, show-stopping doorstopper of a book, with 300+ pages lavishly illustrated with gorgeous photos by Eric Wolfinger. The recipes are accompanied by Kinch's thoughts on the hyper-seasonal, hyper-local (the restaurant has its own dedicated micro-farm) cuisine he's been turning out since 2002 at his renowned Los Gatos restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/COI-600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/COI-600.jpg\" alt=\"Coi: Stories and Recipes by Daniel Patterson\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75175\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or are your recipients strictly city people? Instead of sending them down to the peninsula, wrap up the elegant \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0714865907/kqedorg-20\">Coi: Stories and Recipes\u003c/a> by Daniel Patterson. Unlike most chefs, who rely on professional co-authors to shape their stories into evocative (or at least serviceable) prose, Patterson wrote his own text (and recipes), so nothing gets in the way of his strong personality and vision as he delves into the philosophies at work in his North Beach restaurant. The recipes, such as they are, are essays in themselves, densely written in small-font corona type alongside detailed origin stories by Patterson. Each recipe is scaled to precise tasting-menu size, with no corners cut for sous-chef-deprived home cooks; just making the restaurant's cultured butter takes more than a dozen steps and the better part of a week. Still, if your friends or family like a challenge in the kitchen, it doesn't get more sensual-cerebral than this. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Cheese Heads\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452111634/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks600.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery Cooks by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75177\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Something old, something new, something goat, something blue: For those who just can't get enough of that wonderful stuff, the top contender for dairy lovers is, of course, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452111634/kqedorg-20\">Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/a>. Owners Peggy Smith and Sue Conley tell their inspiring story of how a couple of Berkeley chefs (Smith at Chez Panisse, Conley at Bette's Oceanview Diner) ended up as the doyennes of Northern California cheese, making their own award-winning cheeses while spreading the good word about the culinary artisans and dairy farmers of West Marin and beyond. It includes a comprehensive set of recipes, many inspired by the menu at Sidekick, their Ferry Building prepared-foods counter, covering everything from egg creams and frosty flavored milks to cheese plates, cheese pairings and condiments, salads, sandwiches, and all manner of gooey, cheesy delights like crunchy Fricos (\u003cem>recipe below\u003c/em>), Smokey Blue and Bacon Souffle, and Three-Cheese Lasagna with Mushrooms and Spinach. (For more on the book, check out Brie Mazurek's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/11/03/cheese-pioneers-an-interview-with-cowgirl-creamery-about-their-first-book-cowgirl-creamery-cooks/\"> CUESA interview with Sue Conley\u003c/a>.) \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Pinterest-ing Cook\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579654673/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>One Good Dish\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by David Tanis\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/One-Good-Dish600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/One-Good-Dish600.jpg\" alt=\"One Good Dish by David Tanis\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75195\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Your niece is just out of college and IKEA-furnishing her first apartment. She loves to Instagram, she loves to pin, and she wants her food to look just as good as it tastes, but she's still figuring out her way around the kitchen. Any of Ina Gartner's easy, reliable books might feed her and her friends well, but for the hip young things among us, Ina is the mom jeans of cookbook authors. Show her you're still the cool aunt or uncle with \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579654673/kqedorg-20\">One Good Dish\u003c/a> by David Tanis. Here are appealingly simple recipes with plenty of casual style but no fuss, showing there's no need to spend a whole paycheck just to get a shareable dinner on the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Bake Sale Baker\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452113831/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>The Model Bakery Cookbook: 75 Favorite Recipes from the Beloved Napa Valley Bakery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Karen Mitchell and Sarah Mitchell Hansen with Rick Rodgers\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Model-Bakery600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Model-Bakery600.jpg\" alt=\"The Model Bakery Cookbook: 75 Favorite Recipes from the Beloved Napa Valley Bakery by Karen Mitchell and Sarah Mitchell Hansen with Rick Rodgers\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75179\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For longtime fans of Napa's Model Bakery, the recipe for their signature English muffins--so fat! so fluffy!--alone would be worth the price. But this bright, cheery baking book includes recipes for 74 more all-American favorites, starting the day off right with Cranberry-Buttermilk Scones, carroty-coconutty Morning Glory Muffins, cinnamon-sugar Morning Buns, and almond-crunchy Bear Claws, then moving on to Red Velvet Cupcakes, Carmelita Bars, triple-decker Chocolate Mousse Cake, Peach Streusel Pie, and more. (Lots of useful holiday recipes, too, from Festive Sugar Cookies, Gingerbread Cookies, Gingerbread Houses, and a chocolate-and-coffee Buche de Noel.) Prolific cookbook author Rick Rodgers provides easy-to-follow, well-tested translations of the bakery's recipes for home cooks, while mother-daughter owners Karen Mitchell and Sarah Mitchell Hansen describe how they turned this historic bakery into a much-loved destination for locals and visitors alike. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Chocolate Chemist\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579655114/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Seriously Bitter Sweet: The Ultimate Dessert Maker's Guide to Chocolate\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Alice Medrich\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Seriously-Bitter-Sweet600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Seriously-Bitter-Sweet600.jpg\" alt=\"Seriously Bitter Sweet: The Ultimate Dessert Maker’s Guide to Chocolate by Alice Medrich\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75194\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>62 percent. 70 percent. 82 percent. Now that nearly all high-end (and plenty of supermarket) brands of eating and baking chocolate are labeled with their percentage of cocoa solids, home bakers can increasingly bake with the precision of professional pastry chefs. Alice Medrich, the Bay Area's longtime queen of chocolate, has thoroughly revised and updated her 2003 classic \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579651607/kqedorg-20\">Bittersweet: Recipes and Tales from a Life in Chocolate\u003c/a> to reflect the changes in today's chocolate. Explaining how the chemistry of different chocolate percentages can affect finished recipes, Medrich takes the guesswork out of chocolate dessert-making and ensures top-quality results every time. Plus, she doesn't subscribe to darker-is-better snobbery; instead, you'll find plenty of recipes working with good quality milk and even white chocolate here. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Grain Brain\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452114307/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Tartine Book No. 3\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Chad Robertson\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Tartine-Book600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Tartine-Book600.jpg\" alt=\"Tartine Book No. 3 by Chad Robertson\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75180\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Do you even have to ask? For the bread baking geek in your life, this holiday season is just a countdown to the publishing date of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452114307/kqedorg-20\">Tartine Book No. 3\u003c/a>, Chad Robertson's follow-up to his exquisitely detailed, method-driven \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0811870413/kqedorg-20\"> Tartine Bread\u003c/a>. Like so many of his chef compatriots, Robertson has moved beyond French culinary influences, heading north to discover the dark, cold-weather grains and baking traditions in Germany and Scandinavia. Subtitled \u003cem>Modern Ancient Classic Whole\u003c/em>, this book goes funky and deep with recipes for dense loaves based not just on whole grain flours but on sprouted whole grains and seeds as well as cooked-grain porridges. Next year's must-have party snack? Robertson's stunning homemade crispbreads, whose doughs are flavored with whole herbs and spices then thinned through a pasta machine to great stained-glass effect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While this isn't a gluten-free book (Robertson uses plenty of rye and barley), it does cover a lot of interesting grains, including emmer, kamut, einkorn, and spelt (all precursors to modern wheat strains) to inspire those looking to bake with options beyond standard supermarket flours. The book isn't limited to breads and crackers, either; there are a number of surprising, inventive sweets, including Salted Chocolate-Rye Cookies, Barley-Walnut-Fig Cookies, Bohemian Apple Layer Cake, Lemon-Poppy Seed Kefir Pound Cake, and even whole-grain versions of classic French pastries like palmiers, pithiviers, sables, and eclairs. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The DIY Carnivore\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743434/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>In The Charcuterie: The Fatted Calf's Guide to Making Sausage, Salumi, Pates, Roasts, Confits, and Other Meaty Goods\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Boet_In-the-Charcuterie.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Boet_In-the-Charcuterie.jpg\" alt=\"In The Charcuterie: The Fatted Calf’s Guide to Making Sausage, Salumi, Pates, Roasts, Confits, and Other Meaty Goods by Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75173\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Happily, sourcing locally pastured, humanely raised meats isn't difficult in the Bay Area anymore. Now, your kitchen table bragging rights come from what you can do with these well-bred meats. Husband and wife team Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller of the Fatted Calf share their secrets for (safely) making delicious charcuterie at home, along with a delectable number of dolled-up, rolled-up, flavored-up roasted, grilled, and braised meat dishes. Salt, spices, care, pork fat, and time will get you through most of the recipes in this book. (For more on the book, check out Kate Williams' \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/09/18/the-fatted-calfs-new-cookbook-brings-charcuterie-favorites-into-your-kitchen/\">Bay Area Bites interview with Boetticher and Miller\u003c/a>.) \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Wine Locavore\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743000/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>The New California Wine: A Guide to the Producers and Wines Behind a Revolution in Taste\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Jon Bonne \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Bonn_New-CA-Wine600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Bonn_New-CA-Wine600.jpg\" alt=\"The New California Wine: A Guide to the Producers and Wines Behind a Revolution in Taste by Jon Bonne\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75174\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco Chronicle wine writer Jon Bonne explores the new world of California winemaking, talking to a current crop of winemakers who are more interested in making balanced, restrained, and food-friendly wines than high-alcohol, big-fruit Cabs and Chards that made California a player on the international wine scene in past years. Using offbeat varietals and, often, more natural techniques, these growers and winemakers are opening up California wines to a new generation, and Bonne is a staunch advocate with a clear, well-informed style that's accessible to both interested drinkers and dedicated collectors. (For more on the book, check out \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/10/28/beyond-the-fruit-bomb-the-new-california-wine-by-jon-bonne/\">Rachael Myrow’s interview with Jon Bonne\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Cheese Fricos\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from Cowgirl Creamery Cooks by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith (Chronicle Books). Copyright © 2013.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Traditional fricos are thin, crisp disks formed from small mounds of grated Parmesan, but you can make fricos from most hard-aged grating cheeses. Some folks like to add flour or spices to fricos, but we don’t. We think the best fricos are made simply of cheese and used as a crispy finish to a salad or a bowl of polenta. It’s easiest to make fricos in your oven using parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet as the liner for a metal baking sheet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_75176\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks_Cheese-Fricos600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks_Cheese-Fricos600.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese Fricos. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-75176\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese Fricos. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 16 fricos\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 ounces (115 gms) Parmesan cheese, grated (or any hard grating cheese)\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Preheat the oven to 375°F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet. Use a tablespoon to measure a spoonful of the grated cheese. With your fingers, shape the cheese into mounds, arranged about 4 in/10 cm apart.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake just until the fricos begin to color, turning golden brown, 2 to 4 minutes. It’s easy to burn them, so as soon as you notice them darken and smell their fragrance, take them out of the oven. Let them cool on the baking sheet for 3 minutes and then use a metal spatula to transfer the fricos to a wire rack to cool completely.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>If you like, you can make these up to 2 days ahead. Store them in an airtight container in a cool, dark spot with wax paper between them so they don’t stick together.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Warm Mocha Tart\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from Seriously Bitter Sweet by Alice Medrich (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2013.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two weeks of nonstop shortbread testing produced an unorthodox surprise: perfect shortbread made with melted butter. That shortbread became an exquisitely crunchy and flavorful base for lemon bars, a crust for cheesecake, and, ultimately, my favorite sweet tart crust. I even bake brownie batter on top of it. This remarkable crust barely shrinks in the pan, so there is no need to weight or even prick it before baking. To ensure that the bottom remains crunchy, bake the crust fully, to a deep golden brown, before pouring in the filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time I was playing with the new tart crust, I was experimenting with different cocoas, tasting and comparing natural and Dutch-process in all kinds of recipes. Voilà, rich warm cocoa custard in the simplest crust. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_75181\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Warm-Mocha-Tart1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Warm-Mocha-Tart1000.jpg\" alt=\"Warm Mocha Tart. Photo: Deborah Jones\" width=\"1000\" height=\"784\" class=\"size-full wp-image-75181\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Warm Mocha Tart. Photo: Deborah Jones\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 tart, serves 8 to 10\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Special Equipment\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n9 1/2-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cem>For the Crust\u003c/em>\n\u003cli>7 tablespoons (100 grams) unsalted butter, melted\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup (50 grams) sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 teaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (130 grams) all-purpose flour\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cem>For the Filling\u003c/em>\n\u003cli>3 tablespoons (45 grams) unsalted butter, cut into chunks\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup (100 grams) sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup (25 grams) premium unsweetened cocoa powder (natural or Dutch-process) (\u003cem>see Chocolate Note\u003c/em>)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup heavy cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/4 teaspoons instant espresso powder (such as Medaglia d’Oro), or 1½ teaspoons instant coffee powder or crystals\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large egg, lightly beaten\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To make the tart crust: Mix the butter, sugar, salt, and vanilla in a medium bowl. Add the flour and mix just until well blended. Don’t worry if the dough seems too soft. Press all of the dough very thinly and evenly into the bottom and up the sides of the tart pan.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the crust is a deep golden brown.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Meanwhile, make the filling: Place the butter, sugar, cocoa powder, and cream in a medium saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring, until the mixture is blended and smooth and begins to simmer around the edges. Remove from the heat and stir in the espresso powder and vanilla.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Just before the crust is ready, whisk the egg thoroughly into the hot chocolate mixture.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pour the filling into the hot crust and turn off the oven. Leave the tart in the oven until it quivers like tender Jell-O in the center when the pan is nudged, 10 to 12 minutes. Cool on a rack.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Serve the tart warm or at room temperature.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Variation\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Espresso Walnut Tart:\u003c/strong> The same tart in a walnut cookie crust produces a subtler but still delicious effect. You could also make it with toasted skinned hazelnuts—then I would omit the espresso powder. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reduce the butter to 6 tablespoons (85 grams) and add 2 teaspoons brandy and 1 teaspoon instant espresso powder (or a heaping teaspoon instant coffee powder or crystals) with the sugar, salt, and vanilla. In a food processor, pulverize 1/3 cup (35 grams) walnut pieces with 3/4 cup (105 grams) flour until fine. Substitute this mixture for the flour. Proceed as directed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chocolate Note:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nEither natural or Dutch-process cocoa works well here. The former has a livelier, more complex, fruity flavor, while the latter has a cozy old-fashioned flavor reminiscent of chocolate pudding. You choose.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"How to match this season's best cookbooks with the special friends and family on your gift list? Our holiday cookbook guide offers the most mouthwatering books from the Bay Area's favorite food and wine writers. Includes recipes for Parmesan Fricos and Warm Mocha Tart. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1387395864,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":44,"wordCount":2429},"headData":{"title":"Holiday Cookbook Gift Guide: How to Match the Perfect Gift to Just the Right Gift-ee | KQED","description":"How to match this season's best cookbooks with the special friends and family on your gift list? Our holiday cookbook guide offers the most mouthwatering books from the Bay Area's favorite food and wine writers. Includes recipes for Parmesan Fricos and Warm Mocha Tart. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Holiday Cookbook Gift Guide: How to Match the Perfect Gift to Just the Right Gift-ee ","datePublished":"2013-12-17T17:47:51.000Z","dateModified":"2013-12-18T19:44:24.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"75055 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=75055","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/12/17/holiday-cookbook-gift-guide-how-to-match-the-perfect-gift-to-just-the-right-gift-ee/","disqusTitle":"Holiday Cookbook Gift Guide: How to Match the Perfect Gift to Just the Right Gift-ee ","path":"/bayareabites/75055/holiday-cookbook-gift-guide-how-to-match-the-perfect-gift-to-just-the-right-gift-ee","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Lots of beautiful cookbooks from Bay Area restaurants, chefs, and writers are gracing our shelves this year. But how to match the perfect gift to just the right gift-ee? We've paired our favorite food and wine books with those most likely to appreciate them. And remember the great benefit of giving cookbooks: anyone to whom you give one of these great books should feel compelled to cook from it for you at least once. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Fancy Diners Who Actually Use Their Kitchen\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743973/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Manresa: An Edible Reflection\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by David Kinch\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0714865907/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Coi: Stories and Recipes\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Daniel Patterson\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Manresa600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Manresa600.jpg\" alt=\"Manresa: An Edible Reflection by David Kinch\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75178\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps (lucky you!) these are your in-laws or longtime family friends, these well-heeled folks who have actually, gracefully, splattered their copy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579651267/kqedorg-20\">The French Laundry Cookbook\u003c/a> with use. Want to keep getting invited to their wonderful dinner parties? Splurge on a copy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743973/kqedorg-20\">Manresa: An Edible Reflection\u003c/a>, by chef David Kinch. This is a big, show-stopping doorstopper of a book, with 300+ pages lavishly illustrated with gorgeous photos by Eric Wolfinger. The recipes are accompanied by Kinch's thoughts on the hyper-seasonal, hyper-local (the restaurant has its own dedicated micro-farm) cuisine he's been turning out since 2002 at his renowned Los Gatos restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/COI-600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/COI-600.jpg\" alt=\"Coi: Stories and Recipes by Daniel Patterson\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75175\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or are your recipients strictly city people? Instead of sending them down to the peninsula, wrap up the elegant \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0714865907/kqedorg-20\">Coi: Stories and Recipes\u003c/a> by Daniel Patterson. Unlike most chefs, who rely on professional co-authors to shape their stories into evocative (or at least serviceable) prose, Patterson wrote his own text (and recipes), so nothing gets in the way of his strong personality and vision as he delves into the philosophies at work in his North Beach restaurant. The recipes, such as they are, are essays in themselves, densely written in small-font corona type alongside detailed origin stories by Patterson. Each recipe is scaled to precise tasting-menu size, with no corners cut for sous-chef-deprived home cooks; just making the restaurant's cultured butter takes more than a dozen steps and the better part of a week. Still, if your friends or family like a challenge in the kitchen, it doesn't get more sensual-cerebral than this. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Cheese Heads\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452111634/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks600.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery Cooks by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75177\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Something old, something new, something goat, something blue: For those who just can't get enough of that wonderful stuff, the top contender for dairy lovers is, of course, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452111634/kqedorg-20\">Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/a>. Owners Peggy Smith and Sue Conley tell their inspiring story of how a couple of Berkeley chefs (Smith at Chez Panisse, Conley at Bette's Oceanview Diner) ended up as the doyennes of Northern California cheese, making their own award-winning cheeses while spreading the good word about the culinary artisans and dairy farmers of West Marin and beyond. It includes a comprehensive set of recipes, many inspired by the menu at Sidekick, their Ferry Building prepared-foods counter, covering everything from egg creams and frosty flavored milks to cheese plates, cheese pairings and condiments, salads, sandwiches, and all manner of gooey, cheesy delights like crunchy Fricos (\u003cem>recipe below\u003c/em>), Smokey Blue and Bacon Souffle, and Three-Cheese Lasagna with Mushrooms and Spinach. (For more on the book, check out Brie Mazurek's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/11/03/cheese-pioneers-an-interview-with-cowgirl-creamery-about-their-first-book-cowgirl-creamery-cooks/\"> CUESA interview with Sue Conley\u003c/a>.) \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Pinterest-ing Cook\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579654673/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>One Good Dish\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by David Tanis\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/One-Good-Dish600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/One-Good-Dish600.jpg\" alt=\"One Good Dish by David Tanis\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75195\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Your niece is just out of college and IKEA-furnishing her first apartment. She loves to Instagram, she loves to pin, and she wants her food to look just as good as it tastes, but she's still figuring out her way around the kitchen. Any of Ina Gartner's easy, reliable books might feed her and her friends well, but for the hip young things among us, Ina is the mom jeans of cookbook authors. Show her you're still the cool aunt or uncle with \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579654673/kqedorg-20\">One Good Dish\u003c/a> by David Tanis. Here are appealingly simple recipes with plenty of casual style but no fuss, showing there's no need to spend a whole paycheck just to get a shareable dinner on the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Bake Sale Baker\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452113831/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>The Model Bakery Cookbook: 75 Favorite Recipes from the Beloved Napa Valley Bakery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Karen Mitchell and Sarah Mitchell Hansen with Rick Rodgers\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Model-Bakery600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Model-Bakery600.jpg\" alt=\"The Model Bakery Cookbook: 75 Favorite Recipes from the Beloved Napa Valley Bakery by Karen Mitchell and Sarah Mitchell Hansen with Rick Rodgers\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75179\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For longtime fans of Napa's Model Bakery, the recipe for their signature English muffins--so fat! so fluffy!--alone would be worth the price. But this bright, cheery baking book includes recipes for 74 more all-American favorites, starting the day off right with Cranberry-Buttermilk Scones, carroty-coconutty Morning Glory Muffins, cinnamon-sugar Morning Buns, and almond-crunchy Bear Claws, then moving on to Red Velvet Cupcakes, Carmelita Bars, triple-decker Chocolate Mousse Cake, Peach Streusel Pie, and more. (Lots of useful holiday recipes, too, from Festive Sugar Cookies, Gingerbread Cookies, Gingerbread Houses, and a chocolate-and-coffee Buche de Noel.) Prolific cookbook author Rick Rodgers provides easy-to-follow, well-tested translations of the bakery's recipes for home cooks, while mother-daughter owners Karen Mitchell and Sarah Mitchell Hansen describe how they turned this historic bakery into a much-loved destination for locals and visitors alike. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Chocolate Chemist\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579655114/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Seriously Bitter Sweet: The Ultimate Dessert Maker's Guide to Chocolate\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Alice Medrich\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Seriously-Bitter-Sweet600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Seriously-Bitter-Sweet600.jpg\" alt=\"Seriously Bitter Sweet: The Ultimate Dessert Maker’s Guide to Chocolate by Alice Medrich\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75194\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>62 percent. 70 percent. 82 percent. Now that nearly all high-end (and plenty of supermarket) brands of eating and baking chocolate are labeled with their percentage of cocoa solids, home bakers can increasingly bake with the precision of professional pastry chefs. Alice Medrich, the Bay Area's longtime queen of chocolate, has thoroughly revised and updated her 2003 classic \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579651607/kqedorg-20\">Bittersweet: Recipes and Tales from a Life in Chocolate\u003c/a> to reflect the changes in today's chocolate. Explaining how the chemistry of different chocolate percentages can affect finished recipes, Medrich takes the guesswork out of chocolate dessert-making and ensures top-quality results every time. Plus, she doesn't subscribe to darker-is-better snobbery; instead, you'll find plenty of recipes working with good quality milk and even white chocolate here. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Grain Brain\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452114307/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Tartine Book No. 3\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Chad Robertson\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Tartine-Book600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Tartine-Book600.jpg\" alt=\"Tartine Book No. 3 by Chad Robertson\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75180\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Do you even have to ask? For the bread baking geek in your life, this holiday season is just a countdown to the publishing date of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452114307/kqedorg-20\">Tartine Book No. 3\u003c/a>, Chad Robertson's follow-up to his exquisitely detailed, method-driven \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0811870413/kqedorg-20\"> Tartine Bread\u003c/a>. Like so many of his chef compatriots, Robertson has moved beyond French culinary influences, heading north to discover the dark, cold-weather grains and baking traditions in Germany and Scandinavia. Subtitled \u003cem>Modern Ancient Classic Whole\u003c/em>, this book goes funky and deep with recipes for dense loaves based not just on whole grain flours but on sprouted whole grains and seeds as well as cooked-grain porridges. Next year's must-have party snack? Robertson's stunning homemade crispbreads, whose doughs are flavored with whole herbs and spices then thinned through a pasta machine to great stained-glass effect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While this isn't a gluten-free book (Robertson uses plenty of rye and barley), it does cover a lot of interesting grains, including emmer, kamut, einkorn, and spelt (all precursors to modern wheat strains) to inspire those looking to bake with options beyond standard supermarket flours. The book isn't limited to breads and crackers, either; there are a number of surprising, inventive sweets, including Salted Chocolate-Rye Cookies, Barley-Walnut-Fig Cookies, Bohemian Apple Layer Cake, Lemon-Poppy Seed Kefir Pound Cake, and even whole-grain versions of classic French pastries like palmiers, pithiviers, sables, and eclairs. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The DIY Carnivore\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743434/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>In The Charcuterie: The Fatted Calf's Guide to Making Sausage, Salumi, Pates, Roasts, Confits, and Other Meaty Goods\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Boet_In-the-Charcuterie.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Boet_In-the-Charcuterie.jpg\" alt=\"In The Charcuterie: The Fatted Calf’s Guide to Making Sausage, Salumi, Pates, Roasts, Confits, and Other Meaty Goods by Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75173\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Happily, sourcing locally pastured, humanely raised meats isn't difficult in the Bay Area anymore. Now, your kitchen table bragging rights come from what you can do with these well-bred meats. Husband and wife team Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller of the Fatted Calf share their secrets for (safely) making delicious charcuterie at home, along with a delectable number of dolled-up, rolled-up, flavored-up roasted, grilled, and braised meat dishes. Salt, spices, care, pork fat, and time will get you through most of the recipes in this book. (For more on the book, check out Kate Williams' \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/09/18/the-fatted-calfs-new-cookbook-brings-charcuterie-favorites-into-your-kitchen/\">Bay Area Bites interview with Boetticher and Miller\u003c/a>.) \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Wine Locavore\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743000/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>The New California Wine: A Guide to the Producers and Wines Behind a Revolution in Taste\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Jon Bonne \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Bonn_New-CA-Wine600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Bonn_New-CA-Wine600.jpg\" alt=\"The New California Wine: A Guide to the Producers and Wines Behind a Revolution in Taste by Jon Bonne\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75174\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco Chronicle wine writer Jon Bonne explores the new world of California winemaking, talking to a current crop of winemakers who are more interested in making balanced, restrained, and food-friendly wines than high-alcohol, big-fruit Cabs and Chards that made California a player on the international wine scene in past years. Using offbeat varietals and, often, more natural techniques, these growers and winemakers are opening up California wines to a new generation, and Bonne is a staunch advocate with a clear, well-informed style that's accessible to both interested drinkers and dedicated collectors. (For more on the book, check out \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/10/28/beyond-the-fruit-bomb-the-new-california-wine-by-jon-bonne/\">Rachael Myrow’s interview with Jon Bonne\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Cheese Fricos\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from Cowgirl Creamery Cooks by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith (Chronicle Books). Copyright © 2013.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Traditional fricos are thin, crisp disks formed from small mounds of grated Parmesan, but you can make fricos from most hard-aged grating cheeses. Some folks like to add flour or spices to fricos, but we don’t. We think the best fricos are made simply of cheese and used as a crispy finish to a salad or a bowl of polenta. It’s easiest to make fricos in your oven using parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet as the liner for a metal baking sheet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_75176\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks_Cheese-Fricos600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks_Cheese-Fricos600.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese Fricos. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-75176\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese Fricos. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 16 fricos\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 ounces (115 gms) Parmesan cheese, grated (or any hard grating cheese)\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Preheat the oven to 375°F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet. Use a tablespoon to measure a spoonful of the grated cheese. With your fingers, shape the cheese into mounds, arranged about 4 in/10 cm apart.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake just until the fricos begin to color, turning golden brown, 2 to 4 minutes. It’s easy to burn them, so as soon as you notice them darken and smell their fragrance, take them out of the oven. Let them cool on the baking sheet for 3 minutes and then use a metal spatula to transfer the fricos to a wire rack to cool completely.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>If you like, you can make these up to 2 days ahead. Store them in an airtight container in a cool, dark spot with wax paper between them so they don’t stick together.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Warm Mocha Tart\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from Seriously Bitter Sweet by Alice Medrich (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2013.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two weeks of nonstop shortbread testing produced an unorthodox surprise: perfect shortbread made with melted butter. That shortbread became an exquisitely crunchy and flavorful base for lemon bars, a crust for cheesecake, and, ultimately, my favorite sweet tart crust. I even bake brownie batter on top of it. This remarkable crust barely shrinks in the pan, so there is no need to weight or even prick it before baking. To ensure that the bottom remains crunchy, bake the crust fully, to a deep golden brown, before pouring in the filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time I was playing with the new tart crust, I was experimenting with different cocoas, tasting and comparing natural and Dutch-process in all kinds of recipes. Voilà, rich warm cocoa custard in the simplest crust. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_75181\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Warm-Mocha-Tart1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Warm-Mocha-Tart1000.jpg\" alt=\"Warm Mocha Tart. Photo: Deborah Jones\" width=\"1000\" height=\"784\" class=\"size-full wp-image-75181\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Warm Mocha Tart. Photo: Deborah Jones\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 tart, serves 8 to 10\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Special Equipment\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n9 1/2-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cem>For the Crust\u003c/em>\n\u003cli>7 tablespoons (100 grams) unsalted butter, melted\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup (50 grams) sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 teaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (130 grams) all-purpose flour\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cem>For the Filling\u003c/em>\n\u003cli>3 tablespoons (45 grams) unsalted butter, cut into chunks\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup (100 grams) sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup (25 grams) premium unsweetened cocoa powder (natural or Dutch-process) (\u003cem>see Chocolate Note\u003c/em>)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup heavy cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/4 teaspoons instant espresso powder (such as Medaglia d’Oro), or 1½ teaspoons instant coffee powder or crystals\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large egg, lightly beaten\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To make the tart crust: Mix the butter, sugar, salt, and vanilla in a medium bowl. Add the flour and mix just until well blended. Don’t worry if the dough seems too soft. Press all of the dough very thinly and evenly into the bottom and up the sides of the tart pan.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the crust is a deep golden brown.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Meanwhile, make the filling: Place the butter, sugar, cocoa powder, and cream in a medium saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring, until the mixture is blended and smooth and begins to simmer around the edges. Remove from the heat and stir in the espresso powder and vanilla.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Just before the crust is ready, whisk the egg thoroughly into the hot chocolate mixture.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pour the filling into the hot crust and turn off the oven. Leave the tart in the oven until it quivers like tender Jell-O in the center when the pan is nudged, 10 to 12 minutes. Cool on a rack.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Serve the tart warm or at room temperature.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Variation\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Espresso Walnut Tart:\u003c/strong> The same tart in a walnut cookie crust produces a subtler but still delicious effect. You could also make it with toasted skinned hazelnuts—then I would omit the espresso powder. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reduce the butter to 6 tablespoons (85 grams) and add 2 teaspoons brandy and 1 teaspoon instant espresso powder (or a heaping teaspoon instant coffee powder or crystals) with the sugar, salt, and vanilla. In a food processor, pulverize 1/3 cup (35 grams) walnut pieces with 3/4 cup (105 grams) flour until fine. Substitute this mixture for the flour. Proceed as directed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chocolate Note:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nEither natural or Dutch-process cocoa works well here. The former has a livelier, more complex, fruity flavor, while the latter has a cozy old-fashioned flavor reminiscent of chocolate pudding. You choose.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/75055/holiday-cookbook-gift-guide-how-to-match-the-perfect-gift-to-just-the-right-gift-ee","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_188","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_119"],"tags":["bayareabites_600","bayareabites_3998","bayareabites_14758","bayareabites_3999","bayareabites_2763","bayareabites_1531","bayareabites_1684","bayareabites_11545","bayareabites_3997","bayareabites_12791","bayareabites_12602"],"featImg":"bayareabites_75205","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_49244":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_49244","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"49244","score":null,"sort":[1348788267000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"2012-eat-real-festival-day-3-highlights","title":"2012 Eat Real Festival: Day 3 Highlights","publishDate":1348788267,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000d.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000d.jpg\" alt=\"Milk-Fed Brunch at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Milk-Fed Brunch at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49365\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Milk-Fed Brunch booth at Eat Real Festival.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>All Photos:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.coirestaurant.com\">Coi\u003c/a> chef \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/07/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson/\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a> isn't usually a five-bucks-a-plate kind of guy. \u003ca href=\"http://canerossosf.com/\">Il Cane Rosso\u003c/a> in the Ferry Building, his most casual spot, will make you a $9 egg-salad sandwich; at Jack London Square's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/10/let-them-cook-for-you-haven/\">Haven\u003c/a>, $6 will buy you a side of Chantenay carrots with hay and \u003ca href=\"http://www.vadouvan.com/\">vadouvan\u003c/a>. Toying with the tasting menu at Coi, from abalone with nettle-dandelion salsa verde to frozen lime marshmallow, will set you back a cool 165 clams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000b.jpg\" alt=\"Daniel Patterson and crew at 2012 Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Daniel Patterson and crew at 2012 Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49363\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Daniel Patterson (center) and crew at Eat Real Festival's Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But here was Patterson on a sunny Sunday morning in Oakland, surrounded by a crew of at least a dozen. Bent double over their folding-table workstations, they draped slices of grilled lamb over mounds of herby three-grain salad (farro, buckwheat, and wheat berries), doused cubes of poached veal in bone broth, and scooped slivers of string beans and fresh shelling beans over slices of fat-ringed pork confit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-veal10001.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-veal10001.jpg\" alt=\"Milk Poached Veal from Eat Real Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Milk Poached Veal from Eat Real Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49397\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Milk Poached Veal from Eat Real Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The price for each appetizer-sized plate? Five bucks, and did we mention that all the meat came from young, milk-fed animals (hence the name) raised on the pastures of \u003ca href=\"http://www.belcampoinc.com/inc/#!/company/about\">Belcampo Meats\u003c/a>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-lamb-pork500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-lamb-pork500.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled Lamb and Pig Confit at Eat Real Sunday Milk-fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Grilled Lamb and Pig Confit at Eat Real Sunday Milk-fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" height=\"747\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49368\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Grilled Lamb and Pig Confit at Eat Real Sunday Milk-fed Brunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was the Milk-Fed Brunch touted by \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatrealfest.com\">Eat Real\u003c/a>, and if grilled lamb and veal meatballs weren't exactly typical brunch fare, those who managed to find Patterson's stand, which was tucked away at the far end of the Eat Real Festival's sprawl, next to the manically shouting hucksters of the Toyota sponsors' display, enjoyed some restaurant-quality eats, made with a degree of care and flavor-layering not usually seen in such a setting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Mike-the-Bejkr1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Mike-the-Bejkr1000.jpg\" alt=\" Mike the bejkr Zakowski at Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\" Mike the bejkr Zakowski at Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49391\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mike [the bejkr] Zakowski at Eat Real Festival in Oakland\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides downing some excellent lamb and very tender veal and carrots, tracking down Patterson's booth helped us stumble upon the surprisingly un-swamped stand of Sonoma's \u003ca href=\"http://www.cultsonoma.com/2011/03/a-good-baker-mike-the-bejkr-zakowski-sonoma-valley/\">Mike the Bejkr\u003c/a>, whose artisan, wood-oven loaves are easily the match of Tartine Bakery's line-out-the-door breads. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/eatreal-bejkr1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/eatreal-bejkr1000.jpg\" alt=\"Mike the Bejkr. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Mike the Bejkr. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49390\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mike had four different loaves (including a hefty pain de campagne stenciled with \"real eat\" in flour on the crust) but the real delight was his fresh-from-the-oven Tuscan schiacciata, oval pizza-like flatbreads loaded with local farm veggies, including zucchini, onion, and red peppers. On Friday mornings at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.svcfm.org/\">Sonoma Valley Farmers' Market\u003c/a>, he says, his stall is mobbed from opening to closing; here, the lines were longer for lumpia. Still, this meant no wait for us in snagging a fresh loaf and a hot, melty-cheesed schiacciata, definitely one of the very best things we ate all weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tuscan-schiacciata500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tuscan-schiacciata500.jpg\" alt=\"Wood-Fired Schiacciata from Mike the Bejkr at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Wood-Fired Schiacciata from Mike the Bejkr at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" height=\"747\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49392\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wood-Fired Schiacciata from Mike the Bejkr at Eat Real Festival\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, with baking on our minds, it was over the \u003ca href=\"http://www.eco-sf.org\">Ecology Center SF\u003c/a>'s table, where a fire was burning in the cob-built community oven and Laurie Ellen Pelicano of \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com\">Tartine Bakery\u003c/a> was demonstrating the fine art of dough-rolling, sharing the skills she's developed making some of the dozens and dozens of galettes that Tartine Bakery sells each day. No bowl needed here; instead, Pelicano dusted her chilled butter cubes with flour, made a casual little well in a mound of flour, dropped in the butter and started rolling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tartine-eatreal560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tartine-eatreal560.jpg\" alt=\" Laurie Ellen Pelicano of Tartine Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" title=\" Laurie Ellen Pelicano of Tartine Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49399\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n \u003cem>Laurie Ellen Pelicano of Tartine Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few passes, and she had a steam-rollered heap of long, flat butter shards coated in flour. Shaped into another well, she added water (much less than you think), and started, casually again, to fold the flour-and-butter shards over themselves, gently distributing the water while scraping the mixture into a mound. As she mixed, she passed along tips on avoiding the basic mistakes most home bakers make, including:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't cut your butter in too finely, especially if you're using a food processor. Stop once the butter's the size of M&Ms; taking the mixture all the way to sand or cornmeal will make a dough that's crumbly, not flaky. Use just enough water to make it hold together; if you tap your squeezed-together handful of dough, it should fall apart. And finally, most importantly, don't overwork the finished dough. That nice, gummy, workable Play-Doh texture? Not what you want. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as a handful would hold together, it was wrapped and put in a cooler to chill. Well-prepared, Pelicano pulled out another already-chilled cube of dough and starting rolling, quickly filling her round of dough with apple slices, a squirt of lemon and a sprinkle of organic sugar, then flipping up the edges of the dough to lap over the apples. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That charming wood oven didn't do a very good job of baking Pelicano's demo galettes, which came out burned on the bottom and slightly underbaked within, but none of the watchers minded. Who would turn down a slice of Tartine-style galette, fresh out of the oven, with no line to wait in? Even better, Pelicano sent interested bakers home with chunks of her leftover dough for their own kitchen experiments. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then it was time for beer in a jar: chocolatey-dark \u003ca href=\"http://www.pacbrewlab.com/beers/squid-ink/\">Squid Ink\u003c/a>, even darker \u003ca href=\"http://www.moonlightbrewing.com/\">Death and Taxes\u003c/a>, autumn-y, crisp Bahl Hornin Mow Keef from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.avbc.com\">Anderson Valley Brewing Company\u003c/a>. And then over to the main stage, where \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Dave-the-Butcher/313452850163\"> Dave the Butcher\u003c/a> and (relative) newbie Daren King were duking it out in the Flying Knives pork-butchering competition, narrated by Belcampo Meats CEO Anya Fernald, with frequent check-ins by the team of judges. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000.jpg\" alt=\"Dave the Butcher battles Daren King at 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Dave the Butcher battles Daren King at 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49405\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dave the Butcher battles Daren King at 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000a.jpg\" alt=\"Dave the Butcher hi-fives Daren King at the conclusion of the 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Dave the Butcher hi-fives Daren King at the conclusion of the 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49413\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dave the Butcher hi-fives Daren King at the conclusion of the 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A whole pig, 45 minutes, and by the end, King won the trophy, and it was time to go home and see what we could make for dinner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/winner-butchery-contest10001.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/winner-butchery-contest10001.jpg\" alt=\"Daren King was victorious over Dave the Butcher in the Eat Real Festivals 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Daren King was victorious over Dave the Butcher in the Eat Real Festivals 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49402\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Daren King was victorious over Dave the Butcher in the Eat Real Festival's 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Daniel Patterson for five bucks, Tuscan-perfect flatbread, Tartine pastry how-tos, and a couple of flying knives: Day 3 of Eat Real. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1437801533,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":1037},"headData":{"title":"2012 Eat Real Festival: Day 3 Highlights | KQED","description":"Daniel Patterson for five bucks, Tuscan-perfect flatbread, Tartine pastry how-tos, and a couple of flying knives: Day 3 of Eat Real. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"2012 Eat Real Festival: Day 3 Highlights","datePublished":"2012-09-27T23:24:27.000Z","dateModified":"2015-07-25T05:18:53.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"49244 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=49244","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/09/27/2012-eat-real-festival-day-3-highlights/","disqusTitle":"2012 Eat Real Festival: Day 3 Highlights","path":"/bayareabites/49244/2012-eat-real-festival-day-3-highlights","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000d.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000d.jpg\" alt=\"Milk-Fed Brunch at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Milk-Fed Brunch at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49365\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Milk-Fed Brunch booth at Eat Real Festival.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>All Photos:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.coirestaurant.com\">Coi\u003c/a> chef \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/07/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson/\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a> isn't usually a five-bucks-a-plate kind of guy. \u003ca href=\"http://canerossosf.com/\">Il Cane Rosso\u003c/a> in the Ferry Building, his most casual spot, will make you a $9 egg-salad sandwich; at Jack London Square's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/10/let-them-cook-for-you-haven/\">Haven\u003c/a>, $6 will buy you a side of Chantenay carrots with hay and \u003ca href=\"http://www.vadouvan.com/\">vadouvan\u003c/a>. Toying with the tasting menu at Coi, from abalone with nettle-dandelion salsa verde to frozen lime marshmallow, will set you back a cool 165 clams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000b.jpg\" alt=\"Daniel Patterson and crew at 2012 Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Daniel Patterson and crew at 2012 Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49363\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Daniel Patterson (center) and crew at Eat Real Festival's Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But here was Patterson on a sunny Sunday morning in Oakland, surrounded by a crew of at least a dozen. Bent double over their folding-table workstations, they draped slices of grilled lamb over mounds of herby three-grain salad (farro, buckwheat, and wheat berries), doused cubes of poached veal in bone broth, and scooped slivers of string beans and fresh shelling beans over slices of fat-ringed pork confit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-veal10001.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-veal10001.jpg\" alt=\"Milk Poached Veal from Eat Real Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Milk Poached Veal from Eat Real Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49397\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Milk Poached Veal from Eat Real Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The price for each appetizer-sized plate? Five bucks, and did we mention that all the meat came from young, milk-fed animals (hence the name) raised on the pastures of \u003ca href=\"http://www.belcampoinc.com/inc/#!/company/about\">Belcampo Meats\u003c/a>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-lamb-pork500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-lamb-pork500.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled Lamb and Pig Confit at Eat Real Sunday Milk-fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Grilled Lamb and Pig Confit at Eat Real Sunday Milk-fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" height=\"747\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49368\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Grilled Lamb and Pig Confit at Eat Real Sunday Milk-fed Brunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was the Milk-Fed Brunch touted by \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatrealfest.com\">Eat Real\u003c/a>, and if grilled lamb and veal meatballs weren't exactly typical brunch fare, those who managed to find Patterson's stand, which was tucked away at the far end of the Eat Real Festival's sprawl, next to the manically shouting hucksters of the Toyota sponsors' display, enjoyed some restaurant-quality eats, made with a degree of care and flavor-layering not usually seen in such a setting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Mike-the-Bejkr1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Mike-the-Bejkr1000.jpg\" alt=\" Mike the bejkr Zakowski at Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\" Mike the bejkr Zakowski at Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49391\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mike [the bejkr] Zakowski at Eat Real Festival in Oakland\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides downing some excellent lamb and very tender veal and carrots, tracking down Patterson's booth helped us stumble upon the surprisingly un-swamped stand of Sonoma's \u003ca href=\"http://www.cultsonoma.com/2011/03/a-good-baker-mike-the-bejkr-zakowski-sonoma-valley/\">Mike the Bejkr\u003c/a>, whose artisan, wood-oven loaves are easily the match of Tartine Bakery's line-out-the-door breads. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/eatreal-bejkr1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/eatreal-bejkr1000.jpg\" alt=\"Mike the Bejkr. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Mike the Bejkr. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49390\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mike had four different loaves (including a hefty pain de campagne stenciled with \"real eat\" in flour on the crust) but the real delight was his fresh-from-the-oven Tuscan schiacciata, oval pizza-like flatbreads loaded with local farm veggies, including zucchini, onion, and red peppers. On Friday mornings at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.svcfm.org/\">Sonoma Valley Farmers' Market\u003c/a>, he says, his stall is mobbed from opening to closing; here, the lines were longer for lumpia. Still, this meant no wait for us in snagging a fresh loaf and a hot, melty-cheesed schiacciata, definitely one of the very best things we ate all weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tuscan-schiacciata500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tuscan-schiacciata500.jpg\" alt=\"Wood-Fired Schiacciata from Mike the Bejkr at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Wood-Fired Schiacciata from Mike the Bejkr at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" height=\"747\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49392\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wood-Fired Schiacciata from Mike the Bejkr at Eat Real Festival\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, with baking on our minds, it was over the \u003ca href=\"http://www.eco-sf.org\">Ecology Center SF\u003c/a>'s table, where a fire was burning in the cob-built community oven and Laurie Ellen Pelicano of \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com\">Tartine Bakery\u003c/a> was demonstrating the fine art of dough-rolling, sharing the skills she's developed making some of the dozens and dozens of galettes that Tartine Bakery sells each day. No bowl needed here; instead, Pelicano dusted her chilled butter cubes with flour, made a casual little well in a mound of flour, dropped in the butter and started rolling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tartine-eatreal560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tartine-eatreal560.jpg\" alt=\" Laurie Ellen Pelicano of Tartine Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" title=\" Laurie Ellen Pelicano of Tartine Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49399\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n \u003cem>Laurie Ellen Pelicano of Tartine Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few passes, and she had a steam-rollered heap of long, flat butter shards coated in flour. Shaped into another well, she added water (much less than you think), and started, casually again, to fold the flour-and-butter shards over themselves, gently distributing the water while scraping the mixture into a mound. As she mixed, she passed along tips on avoiding the basic mistakes most home bakers make, including:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't cut your butter in too finely, especially if you're using a food processor. Stop once the butter's the size of M&Ms; taking the mixture all the way to sand or cornmeal will make a dough that's crumbly, not flaky. Use just enough water to make it hold together; if you tap your squeezed-together handful of dough, it should fall apart. And finally, most importantly, don't overwork the finished dough. That nice, gummy, workable Play-Doh texture? Not what you want. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as a handful would hold together, it was wrapped and put in a cooler to chill. Well-prepared, Pelicano pulled out another already-chilled cube of dough and starting rolling, quickly filling her round of dough with apple slices, a squirt of lemon and a sprinkle of organic sugar, then flipping up the edges of the dough to lap over the apples. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That charming wood oven didn't do a very good job of baking Pelicano's demo galettes, which came out burned on the bottom and slightly underbaked within, but none of the watchers minded. Who would turn down a slice of Tartine-style galette, fresh out of the oven, with no line to wait in? Even better, Pelicano sent interested bakers home with chunks of her leftover dough for their own kitchen experiments. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then it was time for beer in a jar: chocolatey-dark \u003ca href=\"http://www.pacbrewlab.com/beers/squid-ink/\">Squid Ink\u003c/a>, even darker \u003ca href=\"http://www.moonlightbrewing.com/\">Death and Taxes\u003c/a>, autumn-y, crisp Bahl Hornin Mow Keef from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.avbc.com\">Anderson Valley Brewing Company\u003c/a>. And then over to the main stage, where \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Dave-the-Butcher/313452850163\"> Dave the Butcher\u003c/a> and (relative) newbie Daren King were duking it out in the Flying Knives pork-butchering competition, narrated by Belcampo Meats CEO Anya Fernald, with frequent check-ins by the team of judges. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000.jpg\" alt=\"Dave the Butcher battles Daren King at 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Dave the Butcher battles Daren King at 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49405\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dave the Butcher battles Daren King at 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000a.jpg\" alt=\"Dave the Butcher hi-fives Daren King at the conclusion of the 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Dave the Butcher hi-fives Daren King at the conclusion of the 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49413\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dave the Butcher hi-fives Daren King at the conclusion of the 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A whole pig, 45 minutes, and by the end, King won the trophy, and it was time to go home and see what we could make for dinner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/winner-butchery-contest10001.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/winner-butchery-contest10001.jpg\" alt=\"Daren King was victorious over Dave the Butcher in the Eat Real Festivals 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Daren King was victorious over Dave the Butcher in the Eat Real Festivals 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49402\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Daren King was victorious over Dave the Butcher in the Eat Real Festival's 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/49244/2012-eat-real-festival-day-3-highlights","authors":["5038","5014"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_301","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_64","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_181"],"tags":["bayareabites_3998","bayareabites_3999","bayareabites_4105","bayareabites_2642","bayareabites_10066","bayareabites_10770"],"featImg":"bayareabites_49413","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_46148":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_46148","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"46148","score":null,"sort":[1342892114000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"chef-profile-maverick%e2%80%99s-emmanel-eng","title":"Chef Profile: Maverick’s Emmanuel Eng","publishDate":1342892114,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/400EngandYouks-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/400EngandYouks-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chefs Emmanuel Eng and Scott Youkilis. photo courtesy of Maverick\" title=\"Chefs Emmanuel Eng and Scott Youkilis. photo courtesy of Maverick\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46156\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chefs Emmanuel Eng and Scott Youkilis. Photo courtesy of Maverick\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a petite-sized spot, yet shows mighty potential. \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfmaverick.com/\">Maverick restaurant\u003c/a> has spent the last seven years cranking out various forms of American food in the Mission -- at times high-brow and other times with more of a decidedly Southern and comfy bent. Owners Mike Pierce and executive chef Scott Youkilis brought on and promoted Emmanel Eng, 33, as executive chef in recent months. Eng’s artistic eye is clear in the refreshed menu and clean yet playfully creative plating style. He considers Nancy Oakes a big influencer and mentor in his culinary life and talked his way into a weekly stage that quickly led to full-time line cook work at Indigo restaurant. The Noe Valley resident cooked under Oakes at Boulevard, and has had stints at Sons & Daughters, Foreign Cinema, Quince and Aqua. Eng grew up in Portland, Oregon and studied at the Rhode Island School of Design. One of the reasons he was drawn to the Bay Area was to work for dot-coms (more on that soon) but cooking, a long-term girlfriend, bicycling and designing high-end bicycles are why he stayed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites\u003c/strong> caught up with Eng via phone interview.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did you get interested in cooking?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI went to the Rhode Island School of Design so it’s hard to say how one led to the other. In high school I was really into design and art. The correlation was working with my hands, which helped me get into cooking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Becoming a cook as a career was more a product of moving to San Francisco. During college I went to Sweden and was a backpacker. I got a job at a cafeteria: washing lettuce, slicing tomatoes, and making things like a 50-pound pile of mashed potatoes. It was not glamorous but it was fun. That put me in the world of food production: mundane food but I had to serve it. I found a lot of satisfaction seeing people enjoy and eat the food and liked having the “Jewish mom/Asian grandma” syndrome of wanting to take care of people. When I moved to San Francisco, I was doing design for a dot-com and was laid off. Since I was always eating at a lot of nice places, a friend said “Why not do a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stage_(cooking)\">stage\u003c/a>?” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I walked into Indigo and said, “I will work for free if you teach me.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Who is your mentor?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nNancy Oakes at Boulevard. I still stop by there to check in and see how she’s doing, how things are. That’s where I did most of my development. There’s that classic line cook mentality at other places of work your way up. Then you have that feeling that you’ve seen all you can see. I did that for a long time. When I got to Boulevard, I found it was a place that I really wanted to work, for five years. That’s not common for someone to stick around so long. After five years, it took me that long to say, ok, time for me to move away from line cook and Sous chef and take the leap to be chef de cuisine or open my own place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tell us more about doing your own place.\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI have thoughts about it all the time. What it’s going to be changes all the time. I wrote the business plan as a concept of what I want. My five year plan is to hopefully be chef-owner of a place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you have a significant other? How did you two meet?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy girlfriend Ann was a server at Boulevard. We didn’t get together until after she quit. We’ve been together five years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your favorite spots for food & drink in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.locandasf.com/\">Locanda\u003c/a>: I was there on Tuesday night. David Chang and a lot of people were there and it was fun. We were all chatting and hanging out. I go there pretty often for the Bucatini. I really love that the bartenders let me sit down and they create something. I may request something light and refreshing and say, \"It was hot in the kitchen today.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.koipalace.com/default.htm\">Koi Palace\u003c/a> for dim sum. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ritualroasters.com/\">Ritual Roasters\u003c/a> is where I go for coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/403Eng_Ash-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/403Eng_Ash-new.jpg\" alt=\"Burrata ashed with fig leaf ash, baby beets, Chioggia beet chips, black mission figs, pine nut and pine nut butter, charred fig leaf oil with French breakfast radishes.\" title=\"Burrata ashed with fig leaf ash, baby beets, Chioggia beet chips, black mission figs, pine nut and pine nut butter, charred fig leaf oil with French breakfast radishes.\" width=\"403\" height=\"403\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46157\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Burrata ashed with fig leaf ash, baby beets, Chioggia beet chips, black mission figs, pine nut and pine nut butter, charred fig leaf oil with French breakfast radishes. Photo courtesy of Maverick\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Happy seventh birthday, Maverick. What’s new at the restaurant?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI’ve been using ash [for the dish: burrata ashed with fig leaf ash, baby beets, Chioggia beet chips, black mission figs, pine nut and pine nut butter, charred fig leaf oil with French breakfast radishes]. For our spring version, the dish had corn ash, fiddlehead ferns and ramps. The original idea was to toast cornhusks until they’re nice and golden brown. Then I was going to make a sauce or foam. I hadn’t figured out what I was doing at that point. It smelled amazing so I put in the blender and it tasted like cocoa powder. Not bitter or burnt, and by accident. I was thinking of ash rind -- since there’s that goat cheese with a layer of ash. It makes sense -- in connection with how cheese is made and an ash rind burrata.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That evolved into a version with beets and figs, which was a combination of how \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/07/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson/\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a> at Coi took fig leaves and grilled them and turned into an oil. I copied him, because it was amazing. If corn husks burn so well, I wondered if fig leaves would. I knew someone who worked there, and I said “One day I’ll do this.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/560Eng_HalibutCheek.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/560Eng_HalibutCheek.jpg\" alt=\"halibut cheeks dusted in masa, saffron and zucchini bisque, castelvetrano olive caviar and heirloom tomato relish, bloomsdale spinach, fried zucchini sticks and lemon marigold flowers \" title=\"halibut cheeks dusted in masa, saffron and zucchini bisque, castelvetrano olive caviar and heirloom tomato relish, bloomsdale spinach, fried zucchini sticks and lemon marigold flowers \" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46165\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Halibut cheeks dusted in masa, saffron and zucchini bisque, castelvetrano olive \"caviar\" and heirloom tomato relish, Bloomsdale spinach, fried zucchini sticks and lemon marigold flowers. Photo courtesy of Maverick\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my favorite dishes from the new menu is the halibut cheek dish. Fried chicken is a crowd pleaser and I love it but it’s the least challenging dish on the menu. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Things change a lot. I’m working on new dishes: roasted corn and ginger chowder, chicken agnolotti, and stuffed Italian frying peppers with house made fromage blanc. There’ll be a play on steak and eggs for the snack menu. We had a smoked egg, so I’m looking to do shredded beef jerky on top using the American technique of dried beef and then shredding it into a more Asian thing. I grew up eating shredded beef or shredded pork on my congee. It kind of melts and has a crunchy texture. It’s not like dog treat-style beef jerky. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is your guilty food pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nCrab rangoon. That’s lowbrow American Chinese food. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Mary Ladd profiles Chef Emmanuel Eng, who is the executive chef at Maverick restaurant in the Mission. Eng describes the inspiration and technique to creating food ash for his creative plates of food. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1342901590,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":21,"wordCount":1189},"headData":{"title":"Chef Profile: Maverick’s Emmanuel Eng | KQED","description":"Mary Ladd profiles Chef Emmanuel Eng, who is the executive chef at Maverick restaurant in the Mission. Eng describes the inspiration and technique to creating food ash for his creative plates of food. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Chef Profile: Maverick’s Emmanuel Eng","datePublished":"2012-07-21T17:35:14.000Z","dateModified":"2012-07-21T20:13:10.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"46148 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=46148","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/07/21/chef-profile-maverick%e2%80%99s-emmanel-eng/","disqusTitle":"Chef Profile: Maverick’s Emmanuel Eng","path":"/bayareabites/46148/chef-profile-maverick%e2%80%99s-emmanel-eng","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/400EngandYouks-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/400EngandYouks-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chefs Emmanuel Eng and Scott Youkilis. photo courtesy of Maverick\" title=\"Chefs Emmanuel Eng and Scott Youkilis. photo courtesy of Maverick\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46156\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chefs Emmanuel Eng and Scott Youkilis. Photo courtesy of Maverick\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a petite-sized spot, yet shows mighty potential. \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfmaverick.com/\">Maverick restaurant\u003c/a> has spent the last seven years cranking out various forms of American food in the Mission -- at times high-brow and other times with more of a decidedly Southern and comfy bent. Owners Mike Pierce and executive chef Scott Youkilis brought on and promoted Emmanel Eng, 33, as executive chef in recent months. Eng’s artistic eye is clear in the refreshed menu and clean yet playfully creative plating style. He considers Nancy Oakes a big influencer and mentor in his culinary life and talked his way into a weekly stage that quickly led to full-time line cook work at Indigo restaurant. The Noe Valley resident cooked under Oakes at Boulevard, and has had stints at Sons & Daughters, Foreign Cinema, Quince and Aqua. Eng grew up in Portland, Oregon and studied at the Rhode Island School of Design. One of the reasons he was drawn to the Bay Area was to work for dot-coms (more on that soon) but cooking, a long-term girlfriend, bicycling and designing high-end bicycles are why he stayed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites\u003c/strong> caught up with Eng via phone interview.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did you get interested in cooking?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI went to the Rhode Island School of Design so it’s hard to say how one led to the other. In high school I was really into design and art. The correlation was working with my hands, which helped me get into cooking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Becoming a cook as a career was more a product of moving to San Francisco. During college I went to Sweden and was a backpacker. I got a job at a cafeteria: washing lettuce, slicing tomatoes, and making things like a 50-pound pile of mashed potatoes. It was not glamorous but it was fun. That put me in the world of food production: mundane food but I had to serve it. I found a lot of satisfaction seeing people enjoy and eat the food and liked having the “Jewish mom/Asian grandma” syndrome of wanting to take care of people. When I moved to San Francisco, I was doing design for a dot-com and was laid off. Since I was always eating at a lot of nice places, a friend said “Why not do a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stage_(cooking)\">stage\u003c/a>?” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I walked into Indigo and said, “I will work for free if you teach me.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Who is your mentor?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nNancy Oakes at Boulevard. I still stop by there to check in and see how she’s doing, how things are. That’s where I did most of my development. There’s that classic line cook mentality at other places of work your way up. Then you have that feeling that you’ve seen all you can see. I did that for a long time. When I got to Boulevard, I found it was a place that I really wanted to work, for five years. That’s not common for someone to stick around so long. After five years, it took me that long to say, ok, time for me to move away from line cook and Sous chef and take the leap to be chef de cuisine or open my own place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tell us more about doing your own place.\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI have thoughts about it all the time. What it’s going to be changes all the time. I wrote the business plan as a concept of what I want. My five year plan is to hopefully be chef-owner of a place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you have a significant other? How did you two meet?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy girlfriend Ann was a server at Boulevard. We didn’t get together until after she quit. We’ve been together five years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your favorite spots for food & drink in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.locandasf.com/\">Locanda\u003c/a>: I was there on Tuesday night. David Chang and a lot of people were there and it was fun. We were all chatting and hanging out. I go there pretty often for the Bucatini. I really love that the bartenders let me sit down and they create something. I may request something light and refreshing and say, \"It was hot in the kitchen today.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.koipalace.com/default.htm\">Koi Palace\u003c/a> for dim sum. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ritualroasters.com/\">Ritual Roasters\u003c/a> is where I go for coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/403Eng_Ash-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/403Eng_Ash-new.jpg\" alt=\"Burrata ashed with fig leaf ash, baby beets, Chioggia beet chips, black mission figs, pine nut and pine nut butter, charred fig leaf oil with French breakfast radishes.\" title=\"Burrata ashed with fig leaf ash, baby beets, Chioggia beet chips, black mission figs, pine nut and pine nut butter, charred fig leaf oil with French breakfast radishes.\" width=\"403\" height=\"403\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46157\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Burrata ashed with fig leaf ash, baby beets, Chioggia beet chips, black mission figs, pine nut and pine nut butter, charred fig leaf oil with French breakfast radishes. Photo courtesy of Maverick\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Happy seventh birthday, Maverick. What’s new at the restaurant?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI’ve been using ash [for the dish: burrata ashed with fig leaf ash, baby beets, Chioggia beet chips, black mission figs, pine nut and pine nut butter, charred fig leaf oil with French breakfast radishes]. For our spring version, the dish had corn ash, fiddlehead ferns and ramps. The original idea was to toast cornhusks until they’re nice and golden brown. Then I was going to make a sauce or foam. I hadn’t figured out what I was doing at that point. It smelled amazing so I put in the blender and it tasted like cocoa powder. Not bitter or burnt, and by accident. I was thinking of ash rind -- since there’s that goat cheese with a layer of ash. It makes sense -- in connection with how cheese is made and an ash rind burrata.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That evolved into a version with beets and figs, which was a combination of how \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/07/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson/\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a> at Coi took fig leaves and grilled them and turned into an oil. I copied him, because it was amazing. If corn husks burn so well, I wondered if fig leaves would. I knew someone who worked there, and I said “One day I’ll do this.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/560Eng_HalibutCheek.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/560Eng_HalibutCheek.jpg\" alt=\"halibut cheeks dusted in masa, saffron and zucchini bisque, castelvetrano olive caviar and heirloom tomato relish, bloomsdale spinach, fried zucchini sticks and lemon marigold flowers \" title=\"halibut cheeks dusted in masa, saffron and zucchini bisque, castelvetrano olive caviar and heirloom tomato relish, bloomsdale spinach, fried zucchini sticks and lemon marigold flowers \" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46165\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Halibut cheeks dusted in masa, saffron and zucchini bisque, castelvetrano olive \"caviar\" and heirloom tomato relish, Bloomsdale spinach, fried zucchini sticks and lemon marigold flowers. Photo courtesy of Maverick\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my favorite dishes from the new menu is the halibut cheek dish. Fried chicken is a crowd pleaser and I love it but it’s the least challenging dish on the menu. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Things change a lot. I’m working on new dishes: roasted corn and ginger chowder, chicken agnolotti, and stuffed Italian frying peppers with house made fromage blanc. There’ll be a play on steak and eggs for the snack menu. We had a smoked egg, so I’m looking to do shredded beef jerky on top using the American technique of dried beef and then shredding it into a more Asian thing. I grew up eating shredded beef or shredded pork on my congee. It kind of melts and has a crunchy texture. It’s not like dog treat-style beef jerky. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is your guilty food pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nCrab rangoon. That’s lowbrow American Chinese food. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/46148/chef-profile-maverick%e2%80%99s-emmanel-eng","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_1146","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_10615","bayareabites_409","bayareabites_3998","bayareabites_3999","bayareabites_10613","bayareabites_171","bayareabites_4003","bayareabites_10614"],"featImg":"bayareabites_46156","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_37424":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_37424","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"37424","score":null,"sort":[1326218477000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"let-them-cook-for-you-haven","title":"Let Them Cook For You: Haven ","publishDate":1326218477,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0070.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0070-e1326174935170.jpg\" alt=\"haven\" title=\"haven\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37425\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before you make a reservation at \u003ca href=\"http://www.havenoakland.com/\">Haven\u003c/a>, the latest addition to chef / restauranteur \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/07/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson/\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a>'s growing restaurant group, be sure you are hungry. Very hungry. Once you enter the beautiful wooden door that leads into the dining room, you'll have to put your New Year's fitness resolutions temporarily on hold. Your resolve will most likely waver once you scan Haven's menu and start eyeing the roasted bone marrow and braised lamb. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0073.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0073-e1326174964457.jpg\" alt=\"exterior haven\" title=\"exterior haven\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37426\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located in Jack London Square opposite \u003ca href=\"http://bocanova.com/\">Bocanova\u003c/a> and right next to \u003ca href=\"http://firstandlastchance.com/\">Heinold's First And Last Chance Saloon\u003c/a>, Haven settled into its space in mid-December of last year. In the main dining area, you can take in the view of the waterfront through its large wall of windows, or tuck yourself away in a more intimate corner of the bar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0077.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0077-e1326174999269.jpg\" alt=\"haven bar\" title=\"haven bar\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37427\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dark brown linen coasters, miniature tableaus of air plants, candles and ceramic salt cellars along with Heath dinnerware are the small formal touches that enliven the warm, natural decor of the rustic-modern space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0081.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0081-e1326175109816.jpg\" alt=\"haven coaster\" title=\"haven coaster\" width=\"550\" height=\"412\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37430\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0092.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0092-e1326175219954.jpg\" alt=\"air plant\" title=\"air plant\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37434\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ample wooden bar extends the length of the dining room and flanks the kitchen. If you enjoy a more theatrical dining experience, aim for a seat that affords you a view of the chef and her staff busy at work. We arrived early on a Monday night and were able to sit directly in front of the kitchen humming along with activity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0104.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0104-e1326175464885.jpg\" alt=\"bar\" title=\"bar\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37443\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0078.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0078-e1326175024566.jpg\" alt=\"kitchen\" title=\"kitchen\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37428\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Executive Chef Kim Alter (with the purple head scarf) and her staff at Haven\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I mentioned earlier that it's important to be as hungry as possible when dining at Haven. This is absolutely necessary if you choose the \"Let Us Cook For You\" option -- as my husband and I did -- and allow Executive Chef Kim Alter to spoil you with her 4 or 5-course family-style menu that's available for a table of two or more ($55/person for 4-courses, $65/person for 5). We elected to go with the decadent 5-course meal as this would give us a broad survey of Haven's offerings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0080.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0080-e1326175060647.jpg\" alt=\"haven menu\" title=\"haven menu\" width=\"550\" height=\"412\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37429\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The meal began with a simple and delicious amuse bouche of a white anchovy on a crostini with celery root puree. This was followed by a light, creamy fennel soup made with Meyer lemon preserves and pearl onions. The server poured each portion into our bowls tableside, which had been \"washed with absinthe\" for additional hints of anise. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0090.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0090-e1326175185419.jpg\" alt=\"amuse bouche haven\" title=\"amuse bouche haven\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37433\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0093.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0093-e1326175246405.jpg\" alt=\"fennel soup\" title=\"fennel soup\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37435\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I hope the housemade Parker House rolls that arrived in between the next course remain a staple of the restaurant, as they're probably the best ones you'll ever sink your teeth into. Salty and toasted on the outside, soft and pillowy on the inside, they were the perfect accompaniment to the Little Gem salad tossed in a gorgonzola dressing with celery, jalapeno peppers, and sprinkled with fried chicken skin. A small galvanized bucket filled with deep-fried caramelized Brussels sprouts seasoned with lime, mint and garlic had a delightful sweet and sour tang that reminded us of British \"chips\" with malt vinegar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0094.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0094-e1326175277879.jpg\" alt=\"parker house rolls\" title=\"parker house rolls\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37436\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0095.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0095-e1326175301412.jpg\" alt=\"salad\" title=\"salad\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37437\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0096.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0096-e1326175328930.jpg\" alt=\"brussels sprouts\" title=\"brussels sprouts\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37438\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Following these three delicious renditions of classic comfort food was a twist on pasta carbonara. Haven's version with housemade fettucine noodles uses a thick-cut bacon that imparts a deep smoky flavor to the sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0097.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0097-e1326175357737.jpg\" alt=\"carbonara\" title=\"carbonara\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37439\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up was a bowlful of clams with seared turnips and garlic toast, which we used to sop up the rich bacon and bourbon broth. A side of crispy, mildy spicy fingerling potatoes with seaweed, shiro soy, miso -- an unusual combination that worked well -- completed this course. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0101.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0101-e1326175415716.jpg\" alt=\"clams\" title=\"clams\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37441\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0102.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0102-e1326175437570.jpg\" alt=\"potatoes\" title=\"potatoes\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37442\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's where we began to feel quite stuffed, but there was more to come. The best dishes of the evening were served to us personally by Chef Alter: a sous vide and confit-prepared chicken (a mix of breast and leg/wing, respectively) with a generous portion of wheat berries and roasted parsnips and carrots in a sweet Banyuls-foie sauce, along with a whimsical reinvention of shepherd's pie prepared with ground pork, topped with a delicate rutabaga-derived foam and fried fingerling potatoes. And there was a savory baked cauliflower dish (garnished with a few raw florets) made with cheese from Andante Dairy and served in a \u003cem>cazuela\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0100.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0100-e1326175387310.jpg\" alt=\"chef kim alter\" title=\"chef kim alter\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37440\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0106.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0106-e1326175577831.jpg\" alt=\"sous vide chicken\" title=\"sous vide chicken\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37444\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0107.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0107-e1326174882528.jpg\" alt=\"shepherds pie\" title=\"shepherds pie\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37445\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0108.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0108-e1326174842308.jpg\" alt=\"cauliflower\" title=\"cauliflower\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37446\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0089.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0089-e1326175150718.jpg\" alt=\"chef kim alter\" title=\"chef kim alter\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37432\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chef Kim Alter plotting to fill our stomachs to the limit with dessert \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We had barely recovered from our main courses when the magnificent dessert courses arrived. The intermezzo was a grapefruit sherbet atop a tarragon custard, but the show-stopper was the baked California. Swirled with airy fennel meringue, filled with vanilla ice cream that rested on a lemony cookie crust and served with dollops of citrus and avocado, it was a sweet homage to native flavors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0109.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0109-e1326174807242.jpg\" alt=\"grapefruit sorbet\" title=\"grapefruit sorbet\" width=\"550\" height=\"313\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37447\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0111.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0111-e1326174770870.jpg\" alt=\"baked california\" title=\"baked california\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37448\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we finally put our forks down and savored the last bite of baked California, we had that same, blissfully full feeling as if it were Thanksgiving in January. Our hearty 5-course meal would have been plenty for three, so next time we'll sample some small plates or bring back a group to share in the bounty. And hats off to Chef Alter for a fine meal; I'm looking forward to the ongoing evolution of Haven. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Haven\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address: \u003c/strong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bing.com/maps/default.aspx?v=2&pc=FACEBK&mid=8100&where1=44+Webster+Street%2C+Oakland%2C+CA+94612&FORM=FBKPL0&name=Haven+Restaurant&mkt=en-US\">map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n44 Webster Street\u003cbr>\nOakland, California 94612\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (510) 663-4440\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Haven-Oakland/114954621945534\">Haven Oakland \u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/havenjacklondon\">@havenjacklondon\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n5 pm - 10 pm\u003cbr>\nFriday & Saturday\u003cbr>\n5 - 11 pm\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Before you make a reservation at Haven, the latest addition to chef / restauranteur Daniel Patterson's growing restaurant group, be sure you are hungry. Very hungry.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1326221487,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":38,"wordCount":887},"headData":{"title":"Let Them Cook For You: Haven | KQED","description":"Before you make a reservation at Haven, the latest addition to chef / restauranteur Daniel Patterson's growing restaurant group, be sure you are hungry. Very hungry.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Let Them Cook For You: Haven ","datePublished":"2012-01-10T18:01:17.000Z","dateModified":"2012-01-10T18:51:27.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"37424 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=37424","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/10/let-them-cook-for-you-haven/","disqusTitle":"Let Them Cook For You: Haven ","path":"/bayareabites/37424/let-them-cook-for-you-haven","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0070.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0070-e1326174935170.jpg\" alt=\"haven\" title=\"haven\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37425\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before you make a reservation at \u003ca href=\"http://www.havenoakland.com/\">Haven\u003c/a>, the latest addition to chef / restauranteur \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/07/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson/\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a>'s growing restaurant group, be sure you are hungry. Very hungry. Once you enter the beautiful wooden door that leads into the dining room, you'll have to put your New Year's fitness resolutions temporarily on hold. Your resolve will most likely waver once you scan Haven's menu and start eyeing the roasted bone marrow and braised lamb. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0073.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0073-e1326174964457.jpg\" alt=\"exterior haven\" title=\"exterior haven\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37426\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Located in Jack London Square opposite \u003ca href=\"http://bocanova.com/\">Bocanova\u003c/a> and right next to \u003ca href=\"http://firstandlastchance.com/\">Heinold's First And Last Chance Saloon\u003c/a>, Haven settled into its space in mid-December of last year. In the main dining area, you can take in the view of the waterfront through its large wall of windows, or tuck yourself away in a more intimate corner of the bar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0077.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0077-e1326174999269.jpg\" alt=\"haven bar\" title=\"haven bar\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37427\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dark brown linen coasters, miniature tableaus of air plants, candles and ceramic salt cellars along with Heath dinnerware are the small formal touches that enliven the warm, natural decor of the rustic-modern space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0081.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0081-e1326175109816.jpg\" alt=\"haven coaster\" title=\"haven coaster\" width=\"550\" height=\"412\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37430\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0092.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0092-e1326175219954.jpg\" alt=\"air plant\" title=\"air plant\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37434\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ample wooden bar extends the length of the dining room and flanks the kitchen. If you enjoy a more theatrical dining experience, aim for a seat that affords you a view of the chef and her staff busy at work. We arrived early on a Monday night and were able to sit directly in front of the kitchen humming along with activity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0104.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0104-e1326175464885.jpg\" alt=\"bar\" title=\"bar\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37443\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0078.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0078-e1326175024566.jpg\" alt=\"kitchen\" title=\"kitchen\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37428\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Executive Chef Kim Alter (with the purple head scarf) and her staff at Haven\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I mentioned earlier that it's important to be as hungry as possible when dining at Haven. This is absolutely necessary if you choose the \"Let Us Cook For You\" option -- as my husband and I did -- and allow Executive Chef Kim Alter to spoil you with her 4 or 5-course family-style menu that's available for a table of two or more ($55/person for 4-courses, $65/person for 5). We elected to go with the decadent 5-course meal as this would give us a broad survey of Haven's offerings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0080.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0080-e1326175060647.jpg\" alt=\"haven menu\" title=\"haven menu\" width=\"550\" height=\"412\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37429\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The meal began with a simple and delicious amuse bouche of a white anchovy on a crostini with celery root puree. This was followed by a light, creamy fennel soup made with Meyer lemon preserves and pearl onions. The server poured each portion into our bowls tableside, which had been \"washed with absinthe\" for additional hints of anise. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0090.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0090-e1326175185419.jpg\" alt=\"amuse bouche haven\" title=\"amuse bouche haven\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37433\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0093.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0093-e1326175246405.jpg\" alt=\"fennel soup\" title=\"fennel soup\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37435\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I hope the housemade Parker House rolls that arrived in between the next course remain a staple of the restaurant, as they're probably the best ones you'll ever sink your teeth into. Salty and toasted on the outside, soft and pillowy on the inside, they were the perfect accompaniment to the Little Gem salad tossed in a gorgonzola dressing with celery, jalapeno peppers, and sprinkled with fried chicken skin. A small galvanized bucket filled with deep-fried caramelized Brussels sprouts seasoned with lime, mint and garlic had a delightful sweet and sour tang that reminded us of British \"chips\" with malt vinegar. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0094.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0094-e1326175277879.jpg\" alt=\"parker house rolls\" title=\"parker house rolls\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37436\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0095.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0095-e1326175301412.jpg\" alt=\"salad\" title=\"salad\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37437\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0096.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0096-e1326175328930.jpg\" alt=\"brussels sprouts\" title=\"brussels sprouts\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37438\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Following these three delicious renditions of classic comfort food was a twist on pasta carbonara. Haven's version with housemade fettucine noodles uses a thick-cut bacon that imparts a deep smoky flavor to the sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0097.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0097-e1326175357737.jpg\" alt=\"carbonara\" title=\"carbonara\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37439\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up was a bowlful of clams with seared turnips and garlic toast, which we used to sop up the rich bacon and bourbon broth. A side of crispy, mildy spicy fingerling potatoes with seaweed, shiro soy, miso -- an unusual combination that worked well -- completed this course. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0101.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0101-e1326175415716.jpg\" alt=\"clams\" title=\"clams\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37441\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0102.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0102-e1326175437570.jpg\" alt=\"potatoes\" title=\"potatoes\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37442\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's where we began to feel quite stuffed, but there was more to come. The best dishes of the evening were served to us personally by Chef Alter: a sous vide and confit-prepared chicken (a mix of breast and leg/wing, respectively) with a generous portion of wheat berries and roasted parsnips and carrots in a sweet Banyuls-foie sauce, along with a whimsical reinvention of shepherd's pie prepared with ground pork, topped with a delicate rutabaga-derived foam and fried fingerling potatoes. And there was a savory baked cauliflower dish (garnished with a few raw florets) made with cheese from Andante Dairy and served in a \u003cem>cazuela\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0100.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0100-e1326175387310.jpg\" alt=\"chef kim alter\" title=\"chef kim alter\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37440\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0106.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0106-e1326175577831.jpg\" alt=\"sous vide chicken\" title=\"sous vide chicken\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37444\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0107.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0107-e1326174882528.jpg\" alt=\"shepherds pie\" title=\"shepherds pie\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37445\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0108.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0108-e1326174842308.jpg\" alt=\"cauliflower\" title=\"cauliflower\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37446\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0089.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0089-e1326175150718.jpg\" alt=\"chef kim alter\" title=\"chef kim alter\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37432\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chef Kim Alter plotting to fill our stomachs to the limit with dessert \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We had barely recovered from our main courses when the magnificent dessert courses arrived. The intermezzo was a grapefruit sherbet atop a tarragon custard, but the show-stopper was the baked California. Swirled with airy fennel meringue, filled with vanilla ice cream that rested on a lemony cookie crust and served with dollops of citrus and avocado, it was a sweet homage to native flavors. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0109.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0109-e1326174807242.jpg\" alt=\"grapefruit sorbet\" title=\"grapefruit sorbet\" width=\"550\" height=\"313\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37447\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0111.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/01/IMG_0111-e1326174770870.jpg\" alt=\"baked california\" title=\"baked california\" width=\"550\" height=\"308\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-37448\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we finally put our forks down and savored the last bite of baked California, we had that same, blissfully full feeling as if it were Thanksgiving in January. Our hearty 5-course meal would have been plenty for three, so next time we'll sample some small plates or bring back a group to share in the bounty. And hats off to Chef Alter for a fine meal; I'm looking forward to the ongoing evolution of Haven. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Haven\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address: \u003c/strong>\u003ca href=\"http://www.bing.com/maps/default.aspx?v=2&pc=FACEBK&mid=8100&where1=44+Webster+Street%2C+Oakland%2C+CA+94612&FORM=FBKPL0&name=Haven+Restaurant&mkt=en-US\">map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n44 Webster Street\u003cbr>\nOakland, California 94612\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (510) 663-4440\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Haven-Oakland/114954621945534\">Haven Oakland \u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/havenjacklondon\">@havenjacklondon\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n5 pm - 10 pm\u003cbr>\nFriday & Saturday\u003cbr>\n5 - 11 pm\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/37424/let-them-cook-for-you-haven","authors":["2100"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10"],"tags":["bayareabites_3999","bayareabites_14773","bayareabites_10066","bayareabites_10065","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_9525"],"featImg":"bayareabites_37440","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_20986":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_20986","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"20986","score":null,"sort":[1294432749000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson","title":"Food Secrets of Chef/Restaurateur/Writer Daniel Patterson","publishDate":1294432749,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/daniel-patterson.jpg\" alt=\"Daniel Patterson Photo by Michele Hood\" title=\"Daniel Patterson Photo by Michele Hood\" width=\"500\" height=\"494\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20987\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo Credit: Michele Hood\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/dcpatterson\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a> is a self-taught chef well known to eaters and readers for his food, expanding Bay Area restaurant group, and writing. His fine dining \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi Restaurant\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/coirestaurant\">@coirestaurant\u003c/a>) opened in 2006 in San Francisco, and won two Michelin stars in 2008. Frank Bruni of the New York Times named Coi as a top ten new restaurant outside of New York, and the San Francisco Chronicle awarded Coi four stars. Patterson opened a more casual concept called \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/canerossosf\">Il Cane Rosso\u003c/a> in the Ferry Building in 2009. \u003ca href=\"http://plumoakland.com/\">Plum\u003c/a> opened in Oakland last year. On December 1st, Patterson reported on his Twitter feed that he was the soup cook \"at least for a little while\" for the Plum lunch debut. \u003cem>Bay Area Bites\u003c/em> caught up with Patterson soon after that via phone interview.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1994 Patterson opened \u003cstrong>Babette's\u003c/strong>, his first restaurant, in Sonoma, at the age of 25. Soon after, Food & Wine Magazine named him \"Best New Chef\" in 1997 and San Francisco Focus awarded him the title of \"Rising Star Chef\" the same year. In 2000, Daniel opened \u003cstrong>Elisabeth Daniel\u003c/strong> in San Francisco, which was nominated \"Best New Restaurant\" by the James Beard Foundation in 2001. He was named \"Chef of the Year\" by San Francisco Magazine in 2007.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With natural perfumer \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/AftelierPerfume\">Mandy Aftel\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://www.aftelier.com/\">aftelier.com\u003c/a>), he wrote \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Aroma-Magic-Essential-Foods-Fragrance/dp/1579652646/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1294430027&sr=8-1\">Aroma: the Magic of Essential Oils in Food and Fragrance\u003c/a>\" in 2004. His bio says that \"It was the first cookbook to explain the use of essential oils in cooking and the connection of the sense of smell to emotion and memory in this context.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patterson reported that he and his family cook at home \"a lot\" and that he and his wife used to go out much more often before they had a child. And yes, his young son loves to eat chicken skin. As for his food favorites, Patterson paused. \"I'm not that kinda guy. I order what I'm in the mood for. It doesn't typically follow patterns.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>THE WISH LIST\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPatterson wants to visit these restaurants and said it's \"My wish list, for when I get a day off\":\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://flourandwater.com/\">Flour & Water\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthsf.com/\">Commonwealth\u003c/a>: \"I've never been.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.frances-sf.com/\">Frances\u003c/a>: \"Unbelievably, I've never been there.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>FAMILY TIME\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe chef and his wife like to dine out near their home in the the East Bay. \"Most of the places we go our geared to (our son).\" First stops are courtesy of Charlie Hallowell: \"Usually, we get pizza from \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzaiolooakland.com/\">Pizzaiolo\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.bootandshoeservice.com/\">Boot & Shoe\u003c/a>. I love their salads, and love the drinks at both... the Pizzaiolo head bartender is terrific.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another family stop: Russell & Allison Moore's \u003ca href=\"http://www.caminorestaurant.com/\">Camino Restaurant\u003c/a>, which \"is geographically close to where we live.\" Patterson will generally order \"whatever they have on the menu.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the City, Patterson's first outing of choice is the Cal-Med-Moroccan fine dining hotspot \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a>, run by Chef Mourad Lahlou: \"Let (Chef) Mourad cook.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up are organic wood-fired comfort food at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a> and organic-sustainable Mexican food with a local bent at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopalitosf.com/\">Nopalito\u003c/a>. Patterson said both restaurants are \"sensational.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Southern-Italian food and wine, \u003ca href=\"http://www.a16sf.com/%20\">A16\u003c/a> is another San Francisco favorite. \"We used to live around the corner… we don't go to the city so much anymore.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SWEETS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.bluebottlecoffee.net/locations/kiosk/\">James Freeman's Blue Bottle\u003c/a> \"has an incredible space in the middle of the city. Cakes too. It's really special.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patterson enjoys eating Humphry Slocombe ice cream. Humphry's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/12/food-secrets-of-humphry-slocombes-jake-godby-sean-vahey/\">Jake Godby\u003c/a> used to do pastry work at Coi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.junetaylorjams.com/\">June Taylor Preserves\u003c/a> hit the sweet spot: \"We always have some of these at home.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>DRINKS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a> \"is fantastic. Thad Vogler is a favorite.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I love the drinks at \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a>. Eric Atkins has been there a long time. He'll make stuff and it's always amazing.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ON READING\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHaving a family and running three restaurants seem to leave Patterson with little free time. He said that \"I've done a lot of \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/09/daniel_patterson_learns_new_yo.php\">book events\u003c/a> this year. Reading time is nonexistent. I work from eight in the morning to midnight. (So) I read in concentrated bursts. Or to research.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He did cite \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/10/harold_mcgee_talks_food_scienc.php\">Harold McGee\u003c/a>'s new \u003ca href=\"http://www.curiouscook.com/cook/home.php\">Keys to Good Cooking: A Guide to Making the Best of Foods and Recipes\u003c/a> book (The Penguin Press, $35), calling it \"fantastic.\" Daniel has written for the \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Food & Wine\u003c/em>, \u003cem>London Financial Times\u003c/em> and \u003cem>San Francisco Magazine\u003c/em>. Readers can look forward to Patterson's second book, which he is currently working on. It will be a Coi cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Daniel Patterson is a self-taught chef well known to eaters and readers for his food, expanding Bay Area restaurant group, and writing. His fine dining Coi Restaurant opened in 2006 in San Francisco, and won two Michelin stars in 2008. Frank Bruni of the New York Times named Coi as a top ten new restaurant outside of New York, and the San Francisco Chronicle awarded Coi four stars. Patterson opened a more casual concept called Il Cane Rosso in the Ferry Building in 2009. Plum opened in Oakland last year. On December 1st, Patterson reported on his Twitter feed that he was the soup cook \"at least for a little while\" for the Plum lunch debut. \u003cem>Bay Area Bites\u003c/em> caught up with Patterson soon after that via phone interview.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1294438759,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":762},"headData":{"title":"Food Secrets of Chef/Restaurateur/Writer Daniel Patterson | KQED","description":"Daniel Patterson is a self-taught chef well known to eaters and readers for his food, expanding Bay Area restaurant group, and writing. His fine dining Coi Restaurant opened in 2006 in San Francisco, and won two Michelin stars in 2008. Frank Bruni of the New York Times named Coi as a top ten new restaurant outside of New York, and the San Francisco Chronicle awarded Coi four stars. Patterson opened a more casual concept called Il Cane Rosso in the Ferry Building in 2009. Plum opened in Oakland last year. On December 1st, Patterson reported on his Twitter feed that he was the soup cook "at least for a little while" for the Plum lunch debut. Bay Area Bites caught up with Patterson soon after that via phone interview.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Food Secrets of Chef/Restaurateur/Writer Daniel Patterson","datePublished":"2011-01-07T20:39:09.000Z","dateModified":"2011-01-07T22:19:19.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"20986 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=20986","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/07/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson/","disqusTitle":"Food Secrets of Chef/Restaurateur/Writer Daniel Patterson","path":"/bayareabites/20986/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/daniel-patterson.jpg\" alt=\"Daniel Patterson Photo by Michele Hood\" title=\"Daniel Patterson Photo by Michele Hood\" width=\"500\" height=\"494\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20987\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo Credit: Michele Hood\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/dcpatterson\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a> is a self-taught chef well known to eaters and readers for his food, expanding Bay Area restaurant group, and writing. His fine dining \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi Restaurant\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/coirestaurant\">@coirestaurant\u003c/a>) opened in 2006 in San Francisco, and won two Michelin stars in 2008. Frank Bruni of the New York Times named Coi as a top ten new restaurant outside of New York, and the San Francisco Chronicle awarded Coi four stars. Patterson opened a more casual concept called \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/canerossosf\">Il Cane Rosso\u003c/a> in the Ferry Building in 2009. \u003ca href=\"http://plumoakland.com/\">Plum\u003c/a> opened in Oakland last year. On December 1st, Patterson reported on his Twitter feed that he was the soup cook \"at least for a little while\" for the Plum lunch debut. \u003cem>Bay Area Bites\u003c/em> caught up with Patterson soon after that via phone interview.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1994 Patterson opened \u003cstrong>Babette's\u003c/strong>, his first restaurant, in Sonoma, at the age of 25. Soon after, Food & Wine Magazine named him \"Best New Chef\" in 1997 and San Francisco Focus awarded him the title of \"Rising Star Chef\" the same year. In 2000, Daniel opened \u003cstrong>Elisabeth Daniel\u003c/strong> in San Francisco, which was nominated \"Best New Restaurant\" by the James Beard Foundation in 2001. He was named \"Chef of the Year\" by San Francisco Magazine in 2007.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With natural perfumer \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/AftelierPerfume\">Mandy Aftel\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://www.aftelier.com/\">aftelier.com\u003c/a>), he wrote \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Aroma-Magic-Essential-Foods-Fragrance/dp/1579652646/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1294430027&sr=8-1\">Aroma: the Magic of Essential Oils in Food and Fragrance\u003c/a>\" in 2004. His bio says that \"It was the first cookbook to explain the use of essential oils in cooking and the connection of the sense of smell to emotion and memory in this context.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patterson reported that he and his family cook at home \"a lot\" and that he and his wife used to go out much more often before they had a child. And yes, his young son loves to eat chicken skin. As for his food favorites, Patterson paused. \"I'm not that kinda guy. I order what I'm in the mood for. It doesn't typically follow patterns.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>THE WISH LIST\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPatterson wants to visit these restaurants and said it's \"My wish list, for when I get a day off\":\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://flourandwater.com/\">Flour & Water\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthsf.com/\">Commonwealth\u003c/a>: \"I've never been.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.frances-sf.com/\">Frances\u003c/a>: \"Unbelievably, I've never been there.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>FAMILY TIME\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe chef and his wife like to dine out near their home in the the East Bay. \"Most of the places we go our geared to (our son).\" First stops are courtesy of Charlie Hallowell: \"Usually, we get pizza from \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzaiolooakland.com/\">Pizzaiolo\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.bootandshoeservice.com/\">Boot & Shoe\u003c/a>. I love their salads, and love the drinks at both... the Pizzaiolo head bartender is terrific.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another family stop: Russell & Allison Moore's \u003ca href=\"http://www.caminorestaurant.com/\">Camino Restaurant\u003c/a>, which \"is geographically close to where we live.\" Patterson will generally order \"whatever they have on the menu.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the City, Patterson's first outing of choice is the Cal-Med-Moroccan fine dining hotspot \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a>, run by Chef Mourad Lahlou: \"Let (Chef) Mourad cook.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up are organic wood-fired comfort food at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a> and organic-sustainable Mexican food with a local bent at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopalitosf.com/\">Nopalito\u003c/a>. Patterson said both restaurants are \"sensational.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Southern-Italian food and wine, \u003ca href=\"http://www.a16sf.com/%20\">A16\u003c/a> is another San Francisco favorite. \"We used to live around the corner… we don't go to the city so much anymore.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SWEETS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.bluebottlecoffee.net/locations/kiosk/\">James Freeman's Blue Bottle\u003c/a> \"has an incredible space in the middle of the city. Cakes too. It's really special.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patterson enjoys eating Humphry Slocombe ice cream. Humphry's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/12/food-secrets-of-humphry-slocombes-jake-godby-sean-vahey/\">Jake Godby\u003c/a> used to do pastry work at Coi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.junetaylorjams.com/\">June Taylor Preserves\u003c/a> hit the sweet spot: \"We always have some of these at home.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>DRINKS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a> \"is fantastic. Thad Vogler is a favorite.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I love the drinks at \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a>. Eric Atkins has been there a long time. He'll make stuff and it's always amazing.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ON READING\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHaving a family and running three restaurants seem to leave Patterson with little free time. He said that \"I've done a lot of \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/09/daniel_patterson_learns_new_yo.php\">book events\u003c/a> this year. Reading time is nonexistent. I work from eight in the morning to midnight. (So) I read in concentrated bursts. Or to research.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He did cite \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/10/harold_mcgee_talks_food_scienc.php\">Harold McGee\u003c/a>'s new \u003ca href=\"http://www.curiouscook.com/cook/home.php\">Keys to Good Cooking: A Guide to Making the Best of Foods and Recipes\u003c/a> book (The Penguin Press, $35), calling it \"fantastic.\" Daniel has written for the \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Food & Wine\u003c/em>, \u003cem>London Financial Times\u003c/em> and \u003cem>San Francisco Magazine\u003c/em>. Readers can look forward to Patterson's second book, which he is currently working on. It will be a Coi cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/20986/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_595","bayareabites_8789","bayareabites_8472","bayareabites_3367","bayareabites_3998","bayareabites_3999","bayareabites_8521","bayareabites_14773","bayareabites_8399","bayareabites_8790","bayareabites_219","bayareabites_4030","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_8302","bayareabites_8785"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_18365":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_18365","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"18365","score":null,"sort":[1289157262000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"interview-with-amanda-hesser-the-essential-new-york-times-cookbook","title":"Interview with Amanda Hesser, The Essential New York Times Cookbook","publishDate":1289157262,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/amanda-hesser500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/amanda-hesser500.jpg\" alt=\"Amanda Hesser\" title=\"Amanda Hesser\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18377\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo by Sarah Shatz\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amanda Hesser is hungry. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's five p.m. on Saturday and she's been signing her latest book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0393061035/kqedorg-20\">The Essential New York Times Cookbook: Classic Recipes for a New Century\u003c/a>, since nine in the morning. Just lifting the 932-page, tomato-soup-colored tome would be a workout, packed as it is with hundreds recipes spanning the Times' entire 150-year history of food writing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She's scheduled to have a potluck dinner later with contributors to \u003ca href=\"http://www.food52.com\">food52\u003c/a>, her online community of enthusiastic home cooks, but at this moment, she's wilting, the music in the hotel bar too loud and the crowd already raucous. Thinking of Negronis, maybe a little pizza, I offer up Bruce Hill's new \u003ca href=\"http://www.zerozerosf.com/\">Zero Zero\u003c/a>, but on our way over there, Hesser suggests a detour to \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a>, Corey Lee's Asian-inspired revamp of the old Two/Hawthorne Lane space, which she's been curious to see. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant's not open yet, nor do they have a bar, but then again, Lee earned his chops at the French Laundry. This is not a place that's in the business of saying no. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also helps that the server who answers our knock instantly recognizes Hesser. Not that they open early for us, but an elegantly suited gentleman brings us out a wine list, followed by two glasses of Roederer Estate sparkler to pass the time while we wait on a bench outside the door. Looking over the serenely feng-shui'ed courtyard lined with vine-draped pergolas, Hesser notes the expansiveness and welcome that sets some San Francisco restaurants apart from their equally high-end NYC brethren. \"I haven't even been inside, and I already like this place,\" she says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once inside, we discover that while Benu may not have a bar menu, they have invested in an extremely nice line of amuse-gueles, especially, I imagine, when the \u003cem>guele\u003c/em> to be amused is Hesser's. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First up: two cubes of mountain-yam souffle, each sitting on its own little slatted wooden bench as if ready for a sauna. I tell Amanda that the first thing I looked for in the book was the Banana Tea Bread recipe immortalized in \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/New-York-Times-Cookbook-1961/dp/B000UDS3JM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1289155098&sr=8-3\">The New York Times Cookbook\u003c/a>, circa 1961, the only banana bread recipe that anyone in the world should ever need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Claiborne book was an instant classic, elegantly laid out, spare on chat but thorough on instructions and technique. It was a cookbook for ambitious homemakers and sophisticated urbanites alike, and still, if I go into the kitchen of any woman of my mother's generation, I know without looking that the distinctive blue-green-gold spine will be there in the kitchen, right between the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/SILVER-PALATE-COOKBOOK-MANHATTANS-CELEBRATED/dp/B001G6TBTS/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1289155154&sr=1-4\">Silver Palate Cookbook\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Julia-Child/e/B000AQ0XXS/ref=sr_tc_ep?qid=1289155409\">Julia Child\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Claiborne made no attempt to ingratiate himself with readers. He didn't tell you about himself; instead, he told you, in a voice of authority that brooked no dissent, how to make profiteroles, set a tea table, or stuff a breast of veal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wisely, Hesser made no attempt to update Claiborne's version. Particularly beloved recipes from his book, like that banana bread, do turn up in hers, precisely because they're now part of our collective cooking history. Claiborne chose his recipes from among those popular with readers, back when responding to a newspaper with praise or condemnation required setting pen (or typewriter) to paper and finding a stamp. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Six years in the making, the book began in 2004, when Hesser, then the food editor of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/pages/magazine/index.html\">New York Times Magazine\u003c/a>, put out a call to readers asking them to send her their crumpled, their stained, their most-loved, most-used Times recipes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over 6,000 readers replied, with picks that Hesser and her business partner Merrill Stubbs eventually winnowed (and ruthlessly tested) down to some 400 greatest hits, mostly culled from the last 40 years. Then, Hesser dived into the Times' extensive archives, reaching back all the way through the second half of the 19th century. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(Although, as she writes, \"Sharp-eyed readers may suspect that I slacked off during the 1940s and 50s, but if you could taste some of the recipes I made from this era, you would see that I am saving you from a world of hurt,\" i.e., broiled peanut-butter-and-bacon canapes.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result, comprehensive and lively, is a scrapbook of how we eat now, showing the stops along the way that led us from \u003cem>Le Cirque's Pasta Primavera\u003c/em> (1977) to \u003cem>Bulgar Salad with Pomegranate Dressing\u003c/em> (2006), from \u003cem>Green Goddess Salad\u003c/em> (invented at San Francisco's Palace Hotel in 1923, but not mentioned in the Times until 1948) to Alice Water's \u003cem>Baked Goat Cheese with Salad\u003c/em> (1983). There are snappy timelines, cross-indexed menus for every occasion, and useful lists of go-with dishes at the end of every recipe. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're fascinated by the social history of food, and food trends, the chapter introductions and headnotes will provide plenty of interesting bedtime reading. And if you just want a good recipe for meatloaf, cheesecake, or apple pie, well, you'll find that too, in many iterations. In collating all the reader responses, Hesser and Stubbs discovered, over and over, what the Times community was really cooking. A lot of meatloaves. Many cheesecakes. Any dessert featuring chocolate, apples, or lemon. Butternut squash soup and gazpacho, no-knead bread and no-cook fresh tomato sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not everything caught on; even with all those woks in the cabinets, few people were cooking Chinese at home. Covering food news for the Times, Hesser realized, \"You broadcast out, saying this is a trend happening, but it doesn't stop there. The real curation happens with the readers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's helpful to know that the chapters are ordered chronologically, so that scallops, for example, might show up in several different places within the same chapter, rather than being clustered together. This was a deliberate decision on Hesser's part, to give each chapter a historic and narrative arc, so that in, say, the dessert chapter, you can see how the 1870s fad for blancmange, a quivery, milk-based pudding with medieval roots, was followed, some hundred years later, by an equally intense 1990s craze for quivery, cream-based panna cotta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a book of newspaper recipes from such an august arbiter of taste as the Times, the tone--friendly, breezy, chatty--is surprisingly personal. In every headnote, the guiding voice is Hesser's, telling you, for example, how she loves the accolades she earns serving writer Kay Rentschler's \u003cem>Chilled Corn Soup with Honeydew Polka Dots\u003c/em>, even as Rentschler's nit-picky, madly complicated directions lead her to swear at Rentschler's recipes like other people shout at Glenn Beck. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As she writes of the soup, \"It looks pretty and people praise me. And I quietly feel great respect for Rentschler, while disliking her just the same.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Testing recipes from her predecessors in the 1970s and 80s, Hesser was prepared to cook the equivalent of those bad-haircut high school photos. \u003cem>Tuna au poivre\u003c/em>: how much more \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Bonfire_of_the_Vanities\">Bonfire of the Vanities\u003c/a> could you get? \"But you know what?\" Hesser laughs. \"Done right, it was great! There's a reason why it was so popular.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we talk, a quiet parade of doll-size snacks has been appearing on our low cube of a table. Half a preserved quail egg, bright with ginger and nestled in a tiny spoon. What looks like a cigarette rolled by elves and perched on a miniature ashtray turns out to be a succulent sliver of eel wrapped in crunchy brik pastry next to a dab of creme fraiche topped with salt and lime zest. We shatter through a couple of strips of nori-speckled flatbread, then make our way out, back onto the busy SoMa streets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.gifttool.com/registrar/ShowEventDetails?ID=1767&EID=8008\">The Art of Food Writing: An Adult Writers' Seminar\u003c/a>, a benefit for \u003ca href=\"http://www.826valencia.org\">826 Valencia\u003c/a>, will be held at the Women's Building in San Francisco on Sunday, Nov. 7th, from 7-9pm. Amanda Hesser will be in conversation with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/09/17/secrets-of-a-curator-omnivore-books-celia-sack/\">Celia Sack\u003c/a>, owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/09/23/le-fooding-fights-daniel-patterson-on-east-vs-west/\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a>, executive chef and owner of \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>. $100/person.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Follow Amanda Hesser on Twitter \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/amandahesser\">@amandahesser\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Amanda Hesser talks with Stephanie Rosenbaum about her brand-new magnum opus, \u003cem>The Essential New York Times Cookbook: Classic Recipes for a New Century\u003c/em>, spanning 150 years, 932 pages, and a lot of recipes for meatloaf, chicken, and cheesecake.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1289161379,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":1379},"headData":{"title":"Interview with Amanda Hesser, The Essential New York Times Cookbook | KQED","description":"Amanda Hesser talks with Stephanie Rosenbaum about her brand-new magnum opus, The Essential New York Times Cookbook: Classic Recipes for a New Century, spanning 150 years, 932 pages, and a lot of recipes for meatloaf, chicken, and cheesecake.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Interview with Amanda Hesser, The Essential New York Times Cookbook","datePublished":"2010-11-07T19:14:22.000Z","dateModified":"2010-11-07T20:22:59.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"18365 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=18365","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/07/interview-with-amanda-hesser-the-essential-new-york-times-cookbook/","disqusTitle":"Interview with Amanda Hesser, The Essential New York Times Cookbook","path":"/bayareabites/18365/interview-with-amanda-hesser-the-essential-new-york-times-cookbook","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/amanda-hesser500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/amanda-hesser500.jpg\" alt=\"Amanda Hesser\" title=\"Amanda Hesser\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18377\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo by Sarah Shatz\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Amanda Hesser is hungry. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's five p.m. on Saturday and she's been signing her latest book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0393061035/kqedorg-20\">The Essential New York Times Cookbook: Classic Recipes for a New Century\u003c/a>, since nine in the morning. Just lifting the 932-page, tomato-soup-colored tome would be a workout, packed as it is with hundreds recipes spanning the Times' entire 150-year history of food writing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She's scheduled to have a potluck dinner later with contributors to \u003ca href=\"http://www.food52.com\">food52\u003c/a>, her online community of enthusiastic home cooks, but at this moment, she's wilting, the music in the hotel bar too loud and the crowd already raucous. Thinking of Negronis, maybe a little pizza, I offer up Bruce Hill's new \u003ca href=\"http://www.zerozerosf.com/\">Zero Zero\u003c/a>, but on our way over there, Hesser suggests a detour to \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a>, Corey Lee's Asian-inspired revamp of the old Two/Hawthorne Lane space, which she's been curious to see. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The restaurant's not open yet, nor do they have a bar, but then again, Lee earned his chops at the French Laundry. This is not a place that's in the business of saying no. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also helps that the server who answers our knock instantly recognizes Hesser. Not that they open early for us, but an elegantly suited gentleman brings us out a wine list, followed by two glasses of Roederer Estate sparkler to pass the time while we wait on a bench outside the door. Looking over the serenely feng-shui'ed courtyard lined with vine-draped pergolas, Hesser notes the expansiveness and welcome that sets some San Francisco restaurants apart from their equally high-end NYC brethren. \"I haven't even been inside, and I already like this place,\" she says. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once inside, we discover that while Benu may not have a bar menu, they have invested in an extremely nice line of amuse-gueles, especially, I imagine, when the \u003cem>guele\u003c/em> to be amused is Hesser's. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First up: two cubes of mountain-yam souffle, each sitting on its own little slatted wooden bench as if ready for a sauna. I tell Amanda that the first thing I looked for in the book was the Banana Tea Bread recipe immortalized in \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/New-York-Times-Cookbook-1961/dp/B000UDS3JM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1289155098&sr=8-3\">The New York Times Cookbook\u003c/a>, circa 1961, the only banana bread recipe that anyone in the world should ever need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Claiborne book was an instant classic, elegantly laid out, spare on chat but thorough on instructions and technique. It was a cookbook for ambitious homemakers and sophisticated urbanites alike, and still, if I go into the kitchen of any woman of my mother's generation, I know without looking that the distinctive blue-green-gold spine will be there in the kitchen, right between the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/SILVER-PALATE-COOKBOOK-MANHATTANS-CELEBRATED/dp/B001G6TBTS/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1289155154&sr=1-4\">Silver Palate Cookbook\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Julia-Child/e/B000AQ0XXS/ref=sr_tc_ep?qid=1289155409\">Julia Child\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Claiborne made no attempt to ingratiate himself with readers. He didn't tell you about himself; instead, he told you, in a voice of authority that brooked no dissent, how to make profiteroles, set a tea table, or stuff a breast of veal. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wisely, Hesser made no attempt to update Claiborne's version. Particularly beloved recipes from his book, like that banana bread, do turn up in hers, precisely because they're now part of our collective cooking history. Claiborne chose his recipes from among those popular with readers, back when responding to a newspaper with praise or condemnation required setting pen (or typewriter) to paper and finding a stamp. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Six years in the making, the book began in 2004, when Hesser, then the food editor of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/pages/magazine/index.html\">New York Times Magazine\u003c/a>, put out a call to readers asking them to send her their crumpled, their stained, their most-loved, most-used Times recipes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over 6,000 readers replied, with picks that Hesser and her business partner Merrill Stubbs eventually winnowed (and ruthlessly tested) down to some 400 greatest hits, mostly culled from the last 40 years. Then, Hesser dived into the Times' extensive archives, reaching back all the way through the second half of the 19th century. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(Although, as she writes, \"Sharp-eyed readers may suspect that I slacked off during the 1940s and 50s, but if you could taste some of the recipes I made from this era, you would see that I am saving you from a world of hurt,\" i.e., broiled peanut-butter-and-bacon canapes.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The result, comprehensive and lively, is a scrapbook of how we eat now, showing the stops along the way that led us from \u003cem>Le Cirque's Pasta Primavera\u003c/em> (1977) to \u003cem>Bulgar Salad with Pomegranate Dressing\u003c/em> (2006), from \u003cem>Green Goddess Salad\u003c/em> (invented at San Francisco's Palace Hotel in 1923, but not mentioned in the Times until 1948) to Alice Water's \u003cem>Baked Goat Cheese with Salad\u003c/em> (1983). There are snappy timelines, cross-indexed menus for every occasion, and useful lists of go-with dishes at the end of every recipe. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're fascinated by the social history of food, and food trends, the chapter introductions and headnotes will provide plenty of interesting bedtime reading. And if you just want a good recipe for meatloaf, cheesecake, or apple pie, well, you'll find that too, in many iterations. In collating all the reader responses, Hesser and Stubbs discovered, over and over, what the Times community was really cooking. A lot of meatloaves. Many cheesecakes. Any dessert featuring chocolate, apples, or lemon. Butternut squash soup and gazpacho, no-knead bread and no-cook fresh tomato sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not everything caught on; even with all those woks in the cabinets, few people were cooking Chinese at home. Covering food news for the Times, Hesser realized, \"You broadcast out, saying this is a trend happening, but it doesn't stop there. The real curation happens with the readers.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's helpful to know that the chapters are ordered chronologically, so that scallops, for example, might show up in several different places within the same chapter, rather than being clustered together. This was a deliberate decision on Hesser's part, to give each chapter a historic and narrative arc, so that in, say, the dessert chapter, you can see how the 1870s fad for blancmange, a quivery, milk-based pudding with medieval roots, was followed, some hundred years later, by an equally intense 1990s craze for quivery, cream-based panna cotta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a book of newspaper recipes from such an august arbiter of taste as the Times, the tone--friendly, breezy, chatty--is surprisingly personal. In every headnote, the guiding voice is Hesser's, telling you, for example, how she loves the accolades she earns serving writer Kay Rentschler's \u003cem>Chilled Corn Soup with Honeydew Polka Dots\u003c/em>, even as Rentschler's nit-picky, madly complicated directions lead her to swear at Rentschler's recipes like other people shout at Glenn Beck. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As she writes of the soup, \"It looks pretty and people praise me. And I quietly feel great respect for Rentschler, while disliking her just the same.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Testing recipes from her predecessors in the 1970s and 80s, Hesser was prepared to cook the equivalent of those bad-haircut high school photos. \u003cem>Tuna au poivre\u003c/em>: how much more \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Bonfire_of_the_Vanities\">Bonfire of the Vanities\u003c/a> could you get? \"But you know what?\" Hesser laughs. \"Done right, it was great! There's a reason why it was so popular.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we talk, a quiet parade of doll-size snacks has been appearing on our low cube of a table. Half a preserved quail egg, bright with ginger and nestled in a tiny spoon. What looks like a cigarette rolled by elves and perched on a miniature ashtray turns out to be a succulent sliver of eel wrapped in crunchy brik pastry next to a dab of creme fraiche topped with salt and lime zest. We shatter through a couple of strips of nori-speckled flatbread, then make our way out, back onto the busy SoMa streets. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.gifttool.com/registrar/ShowEventDetails?ID=1767&EID=8008\">The Art of Food Writing: An Adult Writers' Seminar\u003c/a>, a benefit for \u003ca href=\"http://www.826valencia.org\">826 Valencia\u003c/a>, will be held at the Women's Building in San Francisco on Sunday, Nov. 7th, from 7-9pm. Amanda Hesser will be in conversation with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/09/17/secrets-of-a-curator-omnivore-books-celia-sack/\">Celia Sack\u003c/a>, owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/09/23/le-fooding-fights-daniel-patterson-on-east-vs-west/\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a>, executive chef and owner of \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>. $100/person.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Follow Amanda Hesser on Twitter \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/amandahesser\">@amandahesser\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/18365/interview-with-amanda-hesser-the-essential-new-york-times-cookbook","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2407","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_8493","bayareabites_8496","bayareabites_8389","bayareabites_8494","bayareabites_3999","bayareabites_8495","bayareabites_3226"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_13015":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_13015","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"13015","score":null,"sort":[1272989319000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"commis-is-crackin","title":"Commis is Crackin'","publishDate":1272989319,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>It all starts -- literally -- with the egg -- this post, a life, my recent meal at \u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>, a 10-month-old restaurant in Piedmont, Oakland. An egg is a pretty perfect way to begin dinner, especially when, in the case of an inspired amuse-bouche, it evokes breakfast: a poached yolk the color of a setting sun couched in an onion soup. A smear of pureed dates lurked below the surface. Tidy piles of chive clippings and crunchy steel-cut oats flanked the yolk. Even though most of my mornings start with a banana, a very early stumble down Capp Street, and a Gatorade after the gym, one bite made me think of a day beginning, a breakfast on nice plates in a room with a lot of sun and a view of a garden. From the toastiness of the oats, to the sweet, effusive jam-like quality of the dates, and the egg's richness, the elements reconfigured signifiers of breakfast without directly referencing the preparations I usually associate with the meal. It was highbrow, thoughtful, and slightly futuristic, though still comforting and cozy. The dish was what it was; whether or not my experience reflected the chef's intent was totally unimportant. I took about five minutes to eat less than two ounces of perfect lovely food, an Ice Age by my standards. Indeed, it was a very good start.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All dishes aim to satisfy. Some aim to challenge too, to make you think in the same way you're taught to pore over paintings, short stories, and films. To say chefs who cook for our brains as well as our bellies make art and not food is silly; food is a necessity, not a privilege, and the satisfaction we get from any food -- whether a carrot stick or an amuse-bouche prepared with a quarter-ton of expensive machinery -- begins with that need. That's what makes it so exciting, and kind of marvelous to behold, the continuum of agricultural and technological advances, cultural shifts, geographic realities, and economic changes that have taken us from raw mammoth to \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa\u003c/a> -- where Commis chef James Syhabout incidentally once toiled. The diner's role is much like that of a film or theater audience's. Participation is a function of showing up and consuming. Whether you detach and enjoy, or think about why everything is the way it is and why you're seeing it the way you're seeing it, your involvement reveals you. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/05/commis-halibut.jpg\" alt=\"halibut tartare with coriander snow at commis\" title=\"halibut tartare with coriander snow at commis\" width=\"500\" height=\"378\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13031\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Halibut tartare with coriander snow\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the halibut, which I ate after the egg. The menu listed local halibut tartare with ginger, Meyer lemon vinaigrette, coriander snow, pickled kelp, and sprouting radish. It came as a slippery translucent mass quivering on an over-sized white plate, delicious, squishy, sparkly, salty, gravelly things bobbing together; the \"snow\" was crumbles of coriandar-infused ice, crunching lightly and melting with each slurp. It was good as food, the flavors supremely balanced, harmonious, but it became magical because it captured my imagination. As I was enjoying it, I stopped thinking about halibut, ginger, a salad dressing -- the components that had been cut, prepped, and positioned on the plate -- and simply let myself eat surf. The aroma wafting above the plate was the air on a good beach, light and effervescent. My fork was like my seven-year-old feet on vacation, splashing through a tide pool in Northern Florida. I thought about the last time I went to the beach. It was a while ago, and I couldn't even remember when I'd been exactly, or what I'd done there. I live perilously close to the ocean, and yet I go to the beach three times a year, and even then only occasionally set foot in the water. After the halibut, that may change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With its modern sensibility and artful, gently \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Willy_Wonka\">Wonka\u003c/a>-esque approach to food, Commis feels like a lighter, brighter counterpart to Coi in San Francisco. A few months ago, I ate a magnificent meal at \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>. At the same time, the restaurant's dark and shadowy digs, stiff be-suited waiters with hushed voices purring all around, and plaintive indie-folk jams emanating ever so lushly from unseen stereo speakers made for a vaguely funereal climate. The broad show of restraint that made the innovative food so spectacular and subtle had me wincing self-consciously every time my fork glanced lightly off a plate. In contrast, Commis -- from the counters, to the walls, aprons, and windows -- is all whites and silvers -- sleek and minimal, yet airy, fresh-feeling, and just welcoming enough. You get the sense that you're floating off a page in a glossy magazine. My girlfriend's dad sat at the end of our table wearing a dark grey suede blazer and a light blue shirt. His hair is whiter than coriander snow. I took a picture of him with a glass of the wine he brought and he was so excited about the shot that he showed it to the waiter. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>California cuisine is not so much a style of cooking as a dogma, a way of considering the idea of cooking food spawned by the bounty our state produces, and the culture that has sprouted up around it. In 2005, shortly before he opened Coi, Daniel Patterson wrote \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2005/11/06/style/tmagazine/t_l_2192_2194_talk_tyranny_.html\">\"To the Moon, Alice?\"\u003c/a>, an article for The New York Times Magazine, in which he breaks it down like an ill-wrought mayonnaise. The charges still stick:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"[E]veryone seems content with one narrowly defined style of cooking. This happy coincidence of chefs, customers and members of the press all trapped in the same culinary \"Groundhog Day\" goes largely unquestioned. A San Francisco diner said: 'When I go out for a Wednesday-night meal, I don't want something in gelée. I want a pork chop or a bowl of pasta.' I heard this repeatedly. Craig Stoll, the chef and owner of Delfina, offered a view of local chefs as shepherds of sorts, herding the ingredients from farm to table. \"I can't separate the cooking style from the ingredients,\" he said. \"The style is defined by the ingredients.\" Another chef talked about 'the point of view of the carrot.' Seriously.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Surely top-notch ingredients are essential to any permutation of high-end cuisine. Assembling expensive, nuanced, technique-heavy dishes of aged Safeway cast-offs would be like building a mansion out of plywood, but to perpetually insist on the ingredients taking center stage -- that might be overly cautious, lazy, even boring. The carrot may indeed have a point of view. It might want to be more than just a carrot. Maybe carrotness can be a color, a tone, not merely a theme on which to meditate, but something to harness in the interest of larger missions, the sort of dreams chefs like Patterson and Syhabout chase. A carrot is a character. Sometimes it begs for a new script so it doesn't have to play itself all the time -- like Al Pacino in the 80s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/05/commis-butter.jpg\" alt=\"commis butter\" title=\"commis butter\" width=\"500\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13033\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Churned butter at Commis\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in my stomach, new, somewhat more substantial things were circulating: two slow-roasted knobs of sirloin with rendered marrow-caper sauce, spring garlic pudding, and purple potatoes roasted with hay -- an excellent if familiar sum of slightly more rarified-sounding parts -- and a fantastic salad of corned pork jowl with cooked and raw gem lettuce and a black trumpet mushroom vinaigrette. I briefly considered fashioning a mouth-guard out of one of the heftier pork pieces and wearing it all day. Yet throughout dinner, Commis stunned me most in an unexpected place: the butter dish -- in this case, a flat grey slate of stone. Plenty of restaurants churn their own butter. Commis does too, and has it cultured outside the restaurant. I'm no expert, but it didn't taste like most of the really good butter I've had. It was softer than most, funky-smelling like an aged goat cheese. Notes of lemon and lavender danced around the edges of each taste; they mellowed as the butter sat for a few minutes, reacting with the air like wine or cheese. The flavor was bright and fresh but simultaneously old and weird -- in a totally beguiling way. The milk that made the butter might have been from Humboldt, tugged from the udder of the noblest, peppiest, most joyful, grass-stuffed cow in California, but the butter itself was other worldly.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"It all starts -- literally -- with the egg -- this post, a life, my recent meal at Commis, a 10-month-old restaurant in Piedmont, Oakland. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1272989439,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":12,"wordCount":1416},"headData":{"title":"Commis is Crackin' | KQED","description":"It all starts -- literally -- with the egg -- this post, a life, my recent meal at Commis, a 10-month-old restaurant in Piedmont, Oakland. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Commis is Crackin'","datePublished":"2010-05-04T16:08:39.000Z","dateModified":"2010-05-04T16:10:39.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"13015 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=13015","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/05/04/commis-is-crackin/","disqusTitle":"Commis is Crackin'","path":"/bayareabites/13015/commis-is-crackin","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>It all starts -- literally -- with the egg -- this post, a life, my recent meal at \u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>, a 10-month-old restaurant in Piedmont, Oakland. An egg is a pretty perfect way to begin dinner, especially when, in the case of an inspired amuse-bouche, it evokes breakfast: a poached yolk the color of a setting sun couched in an onion soup. A smear of pureed dates lurked below the surface. Tidy piles of chive clippings and crunchy steel-cut oats flanked the yolk. Even though most of my mornings start with a banana, a very early stumble down Capp Street, and a Gatorade after the gym, one bite made me think of a day beginning, a breakfast on nice plates in a room with a lot of sun and a view of a garden. From the toastiness of the oats, to the sweet, effusive jam-like quality of the dates, and the egg's richness, the elements reconfigured signifiers of breakfast without directly referencing the preparations I usually associate with the meal. It was highbrow, thoughtful, and slightly futuristic, though still comforting and cozy. The dish was what it was; whether or not my experience reflected the chef's intent was totally unimportant. I took about five minutes to eat less than two ounces of perfect lovely food, an Ice Age by my standards. Indeed, it was a very good start.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All dishes aim to satisfy. Some aim to challenge too, to make you think in the same way you're taught to pore over paintings, short stories, and films. To say chefs who cook for our brains as well as our bellies make art and not food is silly; food is a necessity, not a privilege, and the satisfaction we get from any food -- whether a carrot stick or an amuse-bouche prepared with a quarter-ton of expensive machinery -- begins with that need. That's what makes it so exciting, and kind of marvelous to behold, the continuum of agricultural and technological advances, cultural shifts, geographic realities, and economic changes that have taken us from raw mammoth to \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa\u003c/a> -- where Commis chef James Syhabout incidentally once toiled. The diner's role is much like that of a film or theater audience's. Participation is a function of showing up and consuming. Whether you detach and enjoy, or think about why everything is the way it is and why you're seeing it the way you're seeing it, your involvement reveals you. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/05/commis-halibut.jpg\" alt=\"halibut tartare with coriander snow at commis\" title=\"halibut tartare with coriander snow at commis\" width=\"500\" height=\"378\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13031\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Halibut tartare with coriander snow\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the halibut, which I ate after the egg. The menu listed local halibut tartare with ginger, Meyer lemon vinaigrette, coriander snow, pickled kelp, and sprouting radish. It came as a slippery translucent mass quivering on an over-sized white plate, delicious, squishy, sparkly, salty, gravelly things bobbing together; the \"snow\" was crumbles of coriandar-infused ice, crunching lightly and melting with each slurp. It was good as food, the flavors supremely balanced, harmonious, but it became magical because it captured my imagination. As I was enjoying it, I stopped thinking about halibut, ginger, a salad dressing -- the components that had been cut, prepped, and positioned on the plate -- and simply let myself eat surf. The aroma wafting above the plate was the air on a good beach, light and effervescent. My fork was like my seven-year-old feet on vacation, splashing through a tide pool in Northern Florida. I thought about the last time I went to the beach. It was a while ago, and I couldn't even remember when I'd been exactly, or what I'd done there. I live perilously close to the ocean, and yet I go to the beach three times a year, and even then only occasionally set foot in the water. After the halibut, that may change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With its modern sensibility and artful, gently \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Willy_Wonka\">Wonka\u003c/a>-esque approach to food, Commis feels like a lighter, brighter counterpart to Coi in San Francisco. A few months ago, I ate a magnificent meal at \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>. At the same time, the restaurant's dark and shadowy digs, stiff be-suited waiters with hushed voices purring all around, and plaintive indie-folk jams emanating ever so lushly from unseen stereo speakers made for a vaguely funereal climate. The broad show of restraint that made the innovative food so spectacular and subtle had me wincing self-consciously every time my fork glanced lightly off a plate. In contrast, Commis -- from the counters, to the walls, aprons, and windows -- is all whites and silvers -- sleek and minimal, yet airy, fresh-feeling, and just welcoming enough. You get the sense that you're floating off a page in a glossy magazine. My girlfriend's dad sat at the end of our table wearing a dark grey suede blazer and a light blue shirt. His hair is whiter than coriander snow. I took a picture of him with a glass of the wine he brought and he was so excited about the shot that he showed it to the waiter. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>California cuisine is not so much a style of cooking as a dogma, a way of considering the idea of cooking food spawned by the bounty our state produces, and the culture that has sprouted up around it. In 2005, shortly before he opened Coi, Daniel Patterson wrote \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2005/11/06/style/tmagazine/t_l_2192_2194_talk_tyranny_.html\">\"To the Moon, Alice?\"\u003c/a>, an article for The New York Times Magazine, in which he breaks it down like an ill-wrought mayonnaise. The charges still stick:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"[E]veryone seems content with one narrowly defined style of cooking. This happy coincidence of chefs, customers and members of the press all trapped in the same culinary \"Groundhog Day\" goes largely unquestioned. A San Francisco diner said: 'When I go out for a Wednesday-night meal, I don't want something in gelée. I want a pork chop or a bowl of pasta.' I heard this repeatedly. Craig Stoll, the chef and owner of Delfina, offered a view of local chefs as shepherds of sorts, herding the ingredients from farm to table. \"I can't separate the cooking style from the ingredients,\" he said. \"The style is defined by the ingredients.\" Another chef talked about 'the point of view of the carrot.' Seriously.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Surely top-notch ingredients are essential to any permutation of high-end cuisine. Assembling expensive, nuanced, technique-heavy dishes of aged Safeway cast-offs would be like building a mansion out of plywood, but to perpetually insist on the ingredients taking center stage -- that might be overly cautious, lazy, even boring. The carrot may indeed have a point of view. It might want to be more than just a carrot. Maybe carrotness can be a color, a tone, not merely a theme on which to meditate, but something to harness in the interest of larger missions, the sort of dreams chefs like Patterson and Syhabout chase. A carrot is a character. Sometimes it begs for a new script so it doesn't have to play itself all the time -- like Al Pacino in the 80s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/05/commis-butter.jpg\" alt=\"commis butter\" title=\"commis butter\" width=\"500\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13033\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Churned butter at Commis\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in my stomach, new, somewhat more substantial things were circulating: two slow-roasted knobs of sirloin with rendered marrow-caper sauce, spring garlic pudding, and purple potatoes roasted with hay -- an excellent if familiar sum of slightly more rarified-sounding parts -- and a fantastic salad of corned pork jowl with cooked and raw gem lettuce and a black trumpet mushroom vinaigrette. I briefly considered fashioning a mouth-guard out of one of the heftier pork pieces and wearing it all day. Yet throughout dinner, Commis stunned me most in an unexpected place: the butter dish -- in this case, a flat grey slate of stone. Plenty of restaurants churn their own butter. Commis does too, and has it cultured outside the restaurant. I'm no expert, but it didn't taste like most of the really good butter I've had. It was softer than most, funky-smelling like an aged goat cheese. Notes of lemon and lavender danced around the edges of each taste; they mellowed as the butter sat for a few minutes, reacting with the air like wine or cheese. The flavor was bright and fresh but simultaneously old and weird -- in a totally beguiling way. The milk that made the butter might have been from Humboldt, tugged from the udder of the noblest, peppiest, most joyful, grass-stuffed cow in California, but the butter itself was other worldly.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/13015/commis-is-crackin","authors":["5060"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10"],"tags":["bayareabites_234","bayareabites_4000","bayareabites_3998","bayareabites_3995","bayareabites_3999","bayareabites_4001","bayareabites_3996","bayareabites_3997","bayareabites_14757"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. 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