Switzerland Gets a Foothold in the Northern California Cheese Industry
Want Your Cheese To Age Gracefully? Cowgirl Creamery's Got Tips
The 85% True Story of Vivien Straus -- as a One-Woman Show, with Cheese
What Does “Artisanal” Mean, Anyway?
Cheese Pioneers: An Interview with Cowgirl Creamery about their First Book "Cowgirl Creamery Cooks"
Cheese Expert Laura Werlin Talks about Seasonality, Books and Travel
Cottage Cheese Pancakes for Spring
It's all about the milk at Cowgirl Creamery
Marin Day Trip: Larkspur, Point Reyes Station, Sausalito
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She has written for Sunset magazine, San Francisco magazine, Time Out, and the San Francisco Chronicle, among other national and international publications. 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Learn more at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/\">cuesa.org\u003c/a>.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/323b5bab8e802e76af5b72a66b7c6987?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"cuesa","facebook":"CUESA","instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["author"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"CUESA | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/323b5bab8e802e76af5b72a66b7c6987?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/323b5bab8e802e76af5b72a66b7c6987?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/cuesa"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_114853":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_114853","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"114853","score":null,"sort":[1485631883000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"switzerland-gets-a-foothold-in-the-northern-california-cheese-industry","title":"Switzerland Gets a Foothold in the Northern California Cheese Industry","publishDate":1485631883,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>What do \u003ca href=\"https://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.redwoodhill.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Redwood Hill Farm and Creamery\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovecheese.com/cheese/\" target=\"_blank\">Cypress Grove Cheese\u003c/a> have in common? Of course, they all produce delicious, award-winning cheese and dairy products that are much-loved throughout the Bay Area. What supermarket dairy case would be complete without blue tubs of Redwood Hill's goat yogurt? What Berkeley cheese plate is without its lavender-and-fennel-scented wheel of Cypress Grove's Purple Haze, its ash-streaked wedge of Humboldt Fog? Is there a cheese drawer in San Francisco complete without a round of Cowgirl Creamery's pungent Red Hawk or buttery Mt Tam? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They're also held up as examples of small-scale, artisanal food products, as successful women-run businesses, as rural job creators, dairy businesses that uphold high standards of animal welfare and support healthy pasture-based ranching and family farms. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what happens when \u003ca href=\"https://us.emmi.com/en/\" target=\"_blank\">Emmi\u003c/a>, a major Swiss-based dairy company, becomes the owner of all three, as well as, most recently, \u003ca href=\"http://meyenberg.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Meyenberg Goat Milk Products\u003c/a>, a Turlock-based family-run dairy and creamery? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The easiest, knee-jerk reaction is to blame the small brands for \"selling out\" as if they were a hip indie band licensing their songs to Budweiser or Chevy, stripping their products of authenticity and artisanal cool. It's what writer Tom Philpott did in a recent Mother Jones post, \u003ca href=\"http://www.motherjones.com/environment/2016/05/three-niche-food-brands-sold-out-week\" target=\"_blank\">Your Favorite Artisanal Food Brand is Probably Owned by a Huge Company\u003c/a>, when he wrote, \"For US cheese lovers like me, the thought of Cowgirl falling into the maw of a large company is like seeing your favorite local coffeehouse get bought by Starbucks.\" Clearly, Philpott's lunch was ruined on the day that \"Spam king\" Hormel \"gobble[d] up\" organic nut butter company Justin's. And it just kept getting worse: \u003ca href=\"http://www.winespectator.com/webfeature/show/id/Jackson-Family-Wines-Buys-Sonoma's-Copa%C3%ADn\" target=\"_blank\">Copain, a Sonoma County niche winery, was \"swallowed\" by Jackson Family Wines\u003c/a>, a nearby wine-biz \"titan,\" then the \"European-style\" Cowgirl was \"snapped up\" by a \"European giant.\" By the end of 2016, Philpott wrote, \"three much-loved small companies succumbed to the appetites of larger players.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet were these gobbled, swallowed, snapped-up companies mere guppies in the fish tank when the Big Food piranhas came calling? The contract lawyers involved would most likely disagree: paying out $286 million for a successful business, as \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodbusinessnews.net/articles/news_home/Financial-Performance/2016/05/What_does_Hormel_see_in_Justin.aspx?ID=%7BA9696DD8-4AC3-4649-BC3A-E57561951905%7D\" target=\"_blank\">Hormel did for Justin's\u003c/a>, is hardly the action of a rogue invader, and the fine print alone must have generated many a billable hour on both sides. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But why is Philpott, and by extension Mother Jones, so determined to make these small companies into victims, undefended and unprotected? Do smaller businesses have to renounce any power or self-agency--or indeed, significant capital-fueled growth--to keep their hipster cred? Is it cool to sell your homemade chocolate peanut butter or goat-milk yogurt at the farmers' market, but not to aspire and succeed in building a multi-million-dollar organic brand? Is selling to a larger company always selling out, and does the product--and the local jobs it sustained--always have to suffer? \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_114900\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new.jpg\" alt=\"From left: Peggy Smith (Cowgirl Creamery), Sue Conley (Cowgirl Creamery), Jennifer Bice (Redwood Hill), Matthias Kunz (Emmi), and Mary Keehn (Cypress Grove) in the Port Room of the San Francisco Ferry Building.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-114900\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">From left: Peggy Smith (Cowgirl Creamery), Sue Conley (Cowgirl Creamery), Jennifer Bice (Redwood Hill), Matthias Kunz (Emmi), and Mary Keehn (Cypress Grove) in the Port Room of the San Francisco Ferry Building. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To address some of these issues, along with the future of their dairies and cheesemaking operations, the founders of Redwood Hill, Cowgirl Creamery, and Cypress Grove, along with a representative from Emmi, recently hosted an ask-anything round table talk and Q&A at the Ferry Building with seven members of the media. On hand were writers and editors from Bay Area Bites, San Francisco magazine, Edible Marin and Wine Country, Edible San Francisco, and Culture magazine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mary Keehn (Cypress Grove, started in 1983), Jennifer Bice (Redwood Hill, 1978), Sue Conley and Peggy Smith (Cowgirl Creamery, 1997) are the brain trust of Northern California cheese-making. It's no exaggeration to say that much of the explosion of interest in California farmstead and artisanal cheeses can be traced back to the hard work of these four women. Tally up their collective years of experience in hands-on dairy farming, cheese-making, and cheese-related sales and distribution, and you'll have to measure in centuries, not decades. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which means, like any reigning, graying dynasty without obvious heirs, they are facing the challenges of succession. None of their family members are interested in taking over their companies. (Too many after-school hours spent wrapping and labeling cheese: there's no back-to-the-land romance in being a farmer's kid.) As Keehn said of her four daughters, \"None of them were particularly interested in glorified dishwashing, which is what ninety percent of cheesemaking is.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Selling was the obvious solution, but not one any of them could take lightly. None of them were serial entrepreneurs, drawn to fast growth and a quick sale. Each of them owned just one company, and they'd spent a lifetime building it, dedicated to making high-quality cheese and dairy products while supporting sustainable farming practices and creating jobs along the rolling green pastures of Marin, Sonoma, and Humboldt counties (and, in the case of Cowgirl, in selling and distributing similar farmstead and artisan cheeses). As their companies had grown, so had their support of other businesses around them, creating an interdependent web of jobs and community responsibilities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_114902\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cypress Grove Cheese: A display of 3 cheeses from Cypress Grove\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2196\" class=\"size-full wp-image-114902\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-160x183.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-800x915.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-768x878.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-1020x1167.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-1180x1350.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-960x1098.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-240x275.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-375x429.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-520x595.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cypress Grove Cheese: A display of 3 cheeses from Cypress Grove \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Keehn was the first to take the leap. While she investigated the possibility of transferring ownership into an \u003ca href=\"http://www.esop.org/\" target=\"_blank\">ESOP\u003c/a>, or employee stock ownership plan, the company needed significant capital investment that employees couldn't provide. Already, the scope of the business had outgrown its newly built creamery, as demand grew for fresh cheeses like \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovecheese.com/cheese/fresh-chevre/sgt-pepper.html\" target=\"_blank\">Sgt. Pepper\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovecheese.com/cheese/fresh-chevre/psychedillic.html\" target=\"_blank\">PsycheDillic\u003c/a>, as well as its soft-ripened and aged offerings. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even after decades in business, Keehn couldn't find a bank willing to loan the necessary funds. As Keehn pondered, she got into the habit of having a breakfast meeting during the annual winter Fancy Food Show with Matthias Kunz, who had grown up on an 8th-generation family farm in Emmental, Switzerland (yes, that \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emmental_cheese\" target=\"_blank\">Emmental\u003c/a>). Kunz now handled the U.S. division of Swiss dairy giant Emmi, who had recently invested in, then acquired, a Wisconsin cheese company named \u003ca href=\"http://www.rothcheese.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Roth\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We did this for a long time, and we built a friendship,\" said Keehn about their yearly breakfasts, at which Kunz would always probe, delicately, to see if she was ready yet to consider terms. The company had other suitors along the way, but she was determined to find a buyer who would do what she cared about: keep the business in Humboldt county, where they've become a big employer; value the brand and let it \"be weird and quirky like we are, which is really important--I say the culture's not just in the cheese,\" said Keehn. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Swiss-based Emmi, with some $3 billion in annual sales, wasn't an obvious first choice for a business owner dedicated to keeping it small and local. But as the friendship grew between Keehn and Kunz, she learned that 54 percent of the publicly traded company was owned by a farmers' cooperative. In Switzerland, the dairies they worked with averaged 20 to 25 cows. The Swiss cheeses they imported into the U.S. were high-end, and they wanted to continue that profile with the American companies they acquired. No, they weren't local, but they were willing to keep her company where she'd first started it. (Jennifer Bice's parents had sold her her first goats, back in the early 1980s). In 2010, she made a deal with Emmi, while remaining a managing director. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emmi has now invested \"way more than you should have, probably,\" said Keehn to Kunz, laughing. When she started the company in 1983, she said, the \"cheese came before the milk.\" While demand was small, sourcing milk wasn't hard, but as the company grew, its needs often outstripped the ability of local goat dairies to keep up. Now, she says, the company has \"the most beautiful dairy in the United States. Our goats produce half again as much milk as the average California dairy, we're \u003ca href=\"http://www.humaneheartland.org/humane-certified-producers/category/dairies\" target=\"_blank\">humane-certified\u003c/a>, we raise our own baby goats. . . this is not normal for corporate America! We get to do the right thing.\" Employees get benefits, and one percent of profits is reinvested in their community every year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jennifer Bice's parents started their farm in Sebastopol in 1968, then Jennifer took it over and built the creamery in 1978. After decades as the founder and head of Redwood Hill Farm, she's now a managing director as well as a milk supplier, thanks to the 350 goats that she's retained on the original farm. (In 2005, the dairy became the first humane-certified goat dairy in the U.S.) In 2010, the company started a second, and now fast-growing, line, \u003ca href=\"https://greenvalleylactosefree.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Green Valley Organics\u003c/a>, which specializes in lactose-free dairy products, including milk, butter, cream cheese, sour cream, kefir, and yogurt. So when Bice, as an aging owner, was faced with similar issues--no obvious heirs, a need for growth that outstripped the resources available to her 80 employees, a determination to keep the company's values and community responsibilities in place, including livable wages for employees and sustainable milk prices for their suppliers--she talked to Keehn about her five years' experience with Emmi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everything was good, said Keehn. The company hadn't been dismantled and moved to Wisconsin. Another dozen jobs had been added. The new dairy was gorgeous and the goats were healthy and happy. There were useful corporate resources, including experienced engineers and dairy scientists, to draw on. The only drawback? Performance reviews--her first, after a lifetime heading her own business--increased paperwork and more detailed accounting, and a long corporate tail that meant change came more slowly and less nimbly than before. Emmi acquired both Redwood Hill and Green Valley in 2015.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Longtime business partners Peggy Smith and Sue Conley came to Point Reyes in the early 1990s and \"got hooked up with the Strauses,\" who were shifting their longtime family dairy over to organic production. They fell in love with the landscape and with the milk. Since both were professional cooks, they started trying to make fresh cheese by hand with Straus milk, and as they \"got hooked into improving our craft,\" Jennifer and Mary became their mentors. When Peggy and Sue opened Tomales Bay Foods in 1997, they sold Jennifer and Mary's cheeses alongside their own. Said Smith, \"When we started, there were seven different local cheesemakers in that region. Now we have 28, and most of them are on-farm producers.\" The growth in cheesemaking has been a boon to the longtime family-run dairies of Sonoma and West Marin, many of whom had been barely keeping up (or losing money) for decades. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Keehn, Conley and Smith knew they were getting older and needed to plan an exit strategy that would ensure a robust future for their employees and partners. They weren't interested in simply cashing out. \"We have such strong ties with our community, and we wanted that to continue on. We have people that we've worked with for a really long time that have helped us develop the business,\" said Smith. \"We looked and looked at ways to sustain the business. And it's so difficult, for agricultural businesses, to find people who are interested in putting money into your business. We could all tell you tall tales of trying to get bank loans.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was 26 years [of being in business] before I got my first bank loan,\" agreed Bice. \"And if they do, it's a very small loan, and your house is on the line [as collateral] and you can't get it off.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Conley and Smith looked at the possibility of an ESOP as well, before deciding against it. \"You only have one opportunity to sell your business,\" said Conley, who noted that selling a business to employees (who would most likely need to put up their own houses as bank-loan collateral) wouldn't preclude the new ownership from selling out to another bidder in the future. But offering the business to an open market didn't seem very appealing, either. \"If you sell it to the highest bidder, who do you get? Kraft?\" asked Conley. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Our intention was to continue to work with our partners--the milk suppliers, the people who make the paper we use to wrap our cheese, the people who haul our waste--and we really wanted a long-term commitment. We work with [local dairy farmer] Albert Straus, we work with the Taylors, we work with Taverna to single-source milk, and I think they've come to rely on us as we rely on them. In working with Emmi, we all said 'We want to maintain our partnerships, we want to maintain who we work with, how we buy from local producers for the cheese we distribute.' \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So it was such a relief to be able to work with someone who understood agriculture, who wasn't looking for a business you could build up in three years and make a huge profit,\" Conley explained. \"This idea is that it's slow growth, which is how we've always done our growth,\" over the past 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Conley and Smith spent months hammering out the details of their contract with Emmi, which was finalized in May 2016. Like Keehn and Bice, they remain as managing directors, and are working to bring the next level of younger managers into the current decision-making loop. Most importantly, said Conley, \"We're still mentoring young cheesemakers--that's a huge part of our mission.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The big value of these three companies is where they are, in their roots in what they do,\" said Kunz, when asked if Emmi could be relied on to keep the businesses local. \"Each company has a totally different culture, but what's common is that they come from strong--very strong!--personalities, which were needed to go over all these hurdles when they were building up these businesses.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And all four women are still, by contract, playing a significant part in their companies' overall decision-making and long-range plans.\"We still pay the same prices, which are probably the highest prices [in the area] for milk, because we really appreciate the quality of milk that we get,\" said Conley. Bice and Keehn pay similarly high prices for their goat milk. (Not to be outdone, Kunz quickly noted that Switzerland has the highest milk prices in the world.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I like to say that it's altruistically selfish,\" said Smith. \"If you do the right thing, it works out.\"\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen reveals how a Swiss dairy giant bought 3 of the Bay Area's favorite local cheese companies--and why that's a good thing. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1485969083,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":29,"wordCount":2493},"headData":{"title":"Switzerland Gets a Foothold in the Northern California Cheese Industry | KQED","description":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen reveals how a Swiss dairy giant bought 3 of the Bay Area's favorite local cheese companies--and why that's a good thing. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Switzerland Gets a Foothold in the Northern California Cheese Industry","datePublished":"2017-01-28T19:31:23.000Z","dateModified":"2017-02-01T17:11:23.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"114853 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=114853","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/01/28/switzerland-gets-a-foothold-in-the-northern-california-cheese-industry/","disqusTitle":"Switzerland Gets a Foothold in the Northern California Cheese Industry","path":"/bayareabites/114853/switzerland-gets-a-foothold-in-the-northern-california-cheese-industry","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>What do \u003ca href=\"https://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.redwoodhill.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Redwood Hill Farm and Creamery\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovecheese.com/cheese/\" target=\"_blank\">Cypress Grove Cheese\u003c/a> have in common? Of course, they all produce delicious, award-winning cheese and dairy products that are much-loved throughout the Bay Area. What supermarket dairy case would be complete without blue tubs of Redwood Hill's goat yogurt? What Berkeley cheese plate is without its lavender-and-fennel-scented wheel of Cypress Grove's Purple Haze, its ash-streaked wedge of Humboldt Fog? Is there a cheese drawer in San Francisco complete without a round of Cowgirl Creamery's pungent Red Hawk or buttery Mt Tam? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They're also held up as examples of small-scale, artisanal food products, as successful women-run businesses, as rural job creators, dairy businesses that uphold high standards of animal welfare and support healthy pasture-based ranching and family farms. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So what happens when \u003ca href=\"https://us.emmi.com/en/\" target=\"_blank\">Emmi\u003c/a>, a major Swiss-based dairy company, becomes the owner of all three, as well as, most recently, \u003ca href=\"http://meyenberg.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Meyenberg Goat Milk Products\u003c/a>, a Turlock-based family-run dairy and creamery? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The easiest, knee-jerk reaction is to blame the small brands for \"selling out\" as if they were a hip indie band licensing their songs to Budweiser or Chevy, stripping their products of authenticity and artisanal cool. It's what writer Tom Philpott did in a recent Mother Jones post, \u003ca href=\"http://www.motherjones.com/environment/2016/05/three-niche-food-brands-sold-out-week\" target=\"_blank\">Your Favorite Artisanal Food Brand is Probably Owned by a Huge Company\u003c/a>, when he wrote, \"For US cheese lovers like me, the thought of Cowgirl falling into the maw of a large company is like seeing your favorite local coffeehouse get bought by Starbucks.\" Clearly, Philpott's lunch was ruined on the day that \"Spam king\" Hormel \"gobble[d] up\" organic nut butter company Justin's. And it just kept getting worse: \u003ca href=\"http://www.winespectator.com/webfeature/show/id/Jackson-Family-Wines-Buys-Sonoma's-Copa%C3%ADn\" target=\"_blank\">Copain, a Sonoma County niche winery, was \"swallowed\" by Jackson Family Wines\u003c/a>, a nearby wine-biz \"titan,\" then the \"European-style\" Cowgirl was \"snapped up\" by a \"European giant.\" By the end of 2016, Philpott wrote, \"three much-loved small companies succumbed to the appetites of larger players.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet were these gobbled, swallowed, snapped-up companies mere guppies in the fish tank when the Big Food piranhas came calling? The contract lawyers involved would most likely disagree: paying out $286 million for a successful business, as \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodbusinessnews.net/articles/news_home/Financial-Performance/2016/05/What_does_Hormel_see_in_Justin.aspx?ID=%7BA9696DD8-4AC3-4649-BC3A-E57561951905%7D\" target=\"_blank\">Hormel did for Justin's\u003c/a>, is hardly the action of a rogue invader, and the fine print alone must have generated many a billable hour on both sides. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But why is Philpott, and by extension Mother Jones, so determined to make these small companies into victims, undefended and unprotected? Do smaller businesses have to renounce any power or self-agency--or indeed, significant capital-fueled growth--to keep their hipster cred? Is it cool to sell your homemade chocolate peanut butter or goat-milk yogurt at the farmers' market, but not to aspire and succeed in building a multi-million-dollar organic brand? Is selling to a larger company always selling out, and does the product--and the local jobs it sustained--always have to suffer? \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_114900\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new.jpg\" alt=\"From left: Peggy Smith (Cowgirl Creamery), Sue Conley (Cowgirl Creamery), Jennifer Bice (Redwood Hill), Matthias Kunz (Emmi), and Mary Keehn (Cypress Grove) in the Port Room of the San Francisco Ferry Building.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-114900\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/Panelists-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">From left: Peggy Smith (Cowgirl Creamery), Sue Conley (Cowgirl Creamery), Jennifer Bice (Redwood Hill), Matthias Kunz (Emmi), and Mary Keehn (Cypress Grove) in the Port Room of the San Francisco Ferry Building. \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To address some of these issues, along with the future of their dairies and cheesemaking operations, the founders of Redwood Hill, Cowgirl Creamery, and Cypress Grove, along with a representative from Emmi, recently hosted an ask-anything round table talk and Q&A at the Ferry Building with seven members of the media. On hand were writers and editors from Bay Area Bites, San Francisco magazine, Edible Marin and Wine Country, Edible San Francisco, and Culture magazine. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mary Keehn (Cypress Grove, started in 1983), Jennifer Bice (Redwood Hill, 1978), Sue Conley and Peggy Smith (Cowgirl Creamery, 1997) are the brain trust of Northern California cheese-making. It's no exaggeration to say that much of the explosion of interest in California farmstead and artisanal cheeses can be traced back to the hard work of these four women. Tally up their collective years of experience in hands-on dairy farming, cheese-making, and cheese-related sales and distribution, and you'll have to measure in centuries, not decades. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Which means, like any reigning, graying dynasty without obvious heirs, they are facing the challenges of succession. None of their family members are interested in taking over their companies. (Too many after-school hours spent wrapping and labeling cheese: there's no back-to-the-land romance in being a farmer's kid.) As Keehn said of her four daughters, \"None of them were particularly interested in glorified dishwashing, which is what ninety percent of cheesemaking is.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Selling was the obvious solution, but not one any of them could take lightly. None of them were serial entrepreneurs, drawn to fast growth and a quick sale. Each of them owned just one company, and they'd spent a lifetime building it, dedicated to making high-quality cheese and dairy products while supporting sustainable farming practices and creating jobs along the rolling green pastures of Marin, Sonoma, and Humboldt counties (and, in the case of Cowgirl, in selling and distributing similar farmstead and artisan cheeses). As their companies had grown, so had their support of other businesses around them, creating an interdependent web of jobs and community responsibilities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_114902\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cypress Grove Cheese: A display of 3 cheeses from Cypress Grove\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2196\" class=\"size-full wp-image-114902\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-160x183.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-800x915.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-768x878.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-1020x1167.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-1180x1350.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-960x1098.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-240x275.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-375x429.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/01/CypressGroveCheese-new-520x595.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cypress Grove Cheese: A display of 3 cheeses from Cypress Grove \u003ccite>(Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Keehn was the first to take the leap. While she investigated the possibility of transferring ownership into an \u003ca href=\"http://www.esop.org/\" target=\"_blank\">ESOP\u003c/a>, or employee stock ownership plan, the company needed significant capital investment that employees couldn't provide. Already, the scope of the business had outgrown its newly built creamery, as demand grew for fresh cheeses like \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovecheese.com/cheese/fresh-chevre/sgt-pepper.html\" target=\"_blank\">Sgt. Pepper\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovecheese.com/cheese/fresh-chevre/psychedillic.html\" target=\"_blank\">PsycheDillic\u003c/a>, as well as its soft-ripened and aged offerings. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even after decades in business, Keehn couldn't find a bank willing to loan the necessary funds. As Keehn pondered, she got into the habit of having a breakfast meeting during the annual winter Fancy Food Show with Matthias Kunz, who had grown up on an 8th-generation family farm in Emmental, Switzerland (yes, that \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emmental_cheese\" target=\"_blank\">Emmental\u003c/a>). Kunz now handled the U.S. division of Swiss dairy giant Emmi, who had recently invested in, then acquired, a Wisconsin cheese company named \u003ca href=\"http://www.rothcheese.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Roth\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We did this for a long time, and we built a friendship,\" said Keehn about their yearly breakfasts, at which Kunz would always probe, delicately, to see if she was ready yet to consider terms. The company had other suitors along the way, but she was determined to find a buyer who would do what she cared about: keep the business in Humboldt county, where they've become a big employer; value the brand and let it \"be weird and quirky like we are, which is really important--I say the culture's not just in the cheese,\" said Keehn. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Swiss-based Emmi, with some $3 billion in annual sales, wasn't an obvious first choice for a business owner dedicated to keeping it small and local. But as the friendship grew between Keehn and Kunz, she learned that 54 percent of the publicly traded company was owned by a farmers' cooperative. In Switzerland, the dairies they worked with averaged 20 to 25 cows. The Swiss cheeses they imported into the U.S. were high-end, and they wanted to continue that profile with the American companies they acquired. No, they weren't local, but they were willing to keep her company where she'd first started it. (Jennifer Bice's parents had sold her her first goats, back in the early 1980s). In 2010, she made a deal with Emmi, while remaining a managing director. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emmi has now invested \"way more than you should have, probably,\" said Keehn to Kunz, laughing. When she started the company in 1983, she said, the \"cheese came before the milk.\" While demand was small, sourcing milk wasn't hard, but as the company grew, its needs often outstripped the ability of local goat dairies to keep up. Now, she says, the company has \"the most beautiful dairy in the United States. Our goats produce half again as much milk as the average California dairy, we're \u003ca href=\"http://www.humaneheartland.org/humane-certified-producers/category/dairies\" target=\"_blank\">humane-certified\u003c/a>, we raise our own baby goats. . . this is not normal for corporate America! We get to do the right thing.\" Employees get benefits, and one percent of profits is reinvested in their community every year. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jennifer Bice's parents started their farm in Sebastopol in 1968, then Jennifer took it over and built the creamery in 1978. After decades as the founder and head of Redwood Hill Farm, she's now a managing director as well as a milk supplier, thanks to the 350 goats that she's retained on the original farm. (In 2005, the dairy became the first humane-certified goat dairy in the U.S.) In 2010, the company started a second, and now fast-growing, line, \u003ca href=\"https://greenvalleylactosefree.com/\" target=\"_blank\">Green Valley Organics\u003c/a>, which specializes in lactose-free dairy products, including milk, butter, cream cheese, sour cream, kefir, and yogurt. So when Bice, as an aging owner, was faced with similar issues--no obvious heirs, a need for growth that outstripped the resources available to her 80 employees, a determination to keep the company's values and community responsibilities in place, including livable wages for employees and sustainable milk prices for their suppliers--she talked to Keehn about her five years' experience with Emmi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everything was good, said Keehn. The company hadn't been dismantled and moved to Wisconsin. Another dozen jobs had been added. The new dairy was gorgeous and the goats were healthy and happy. There were useful corporate resources, including experienced engineers and dairy scientists, to draw on. The only drawback? Performance reviews--her first, after a lifetime heading her own business--increased paperwork and more detailed accounting, and a long corporate tail that meant change came more slowly and less nimbly than before. Emmi acquired both Redwood Hill and Green Valley in 2015.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Longtime business partners Peggy Smith and Sue Conley came to Point Reyes in the early 1990s and \"got hooked up with the Strauses,\" who were shifting their longtime family dairy over to organic production. They fell in love with the landscape and with the milk. Since both were professional cooks, they started trying to make fresh cheese by hand with Straus milk, and as they \"got hooked into improving our craft,\" Jennifer and Mary became their mentors. When Peggy and Sue opened Tomales Bay Foods in 1997, they sold Jennifer and Mary's cheeses alongside their own. Said Smith, \"When we started, there were seven different local cheesemakers in that region. Now we have 28, and most of them are on-farm producers.\" The growth in cheesemaking has been a boon to the longtime family-run dairies of Sonoma and West Marin, many of whom had been barely keeping up (or losing money) for decades. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like Keehn, Conley and Smith knew they were getting older and needed to plan an exit strategy that would ensure a robust future for their employees and partners. They weren't interested in simply cashing out. \"We have such strong ties with our community, and we wanted that to continue on. We have people that we've worked with for a really long time that have helped us develop the business,\" said Smith. \"We looked and looked at ways to sustain the business. And it's so difficult, for agricultural businesses, to find people who are interested in putting money into your business. We could all tell you tall tales of trying to get bank loans.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was 26 years [of being in business] before I got my first bank loan,\" agreed Bice. \"And if they do, it's a very small loan, and your house is on the line [as collateral] and you can't get it off.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Conley and Smith looked at the possibility of an ESOP as well, before deciding against it. \"You only have one opportunity to sell your business,\" said Conley, who noted that selling a business to employees (who would most likely need to put up their own houses as bank-loan collateral) wouldn't preclude the new ownership from selling out to another bidder in the future. But offering the business to an open market didn't seem very appealing, either. \"If you sell it to the highest bidder, who do you get? Kraft?\" asked Conley. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Our intention was to continue to work with our partners--the milk suppliers, the people who make the paper we use to wrap our cheese, the people who haul our waste--and we really wanted a long-term commitment. We work with [local dairy farmer] Albert Straus, we work with the Taylors, we work with Taverna to single-source milk, and I think they've come to rely on us as we rely on them. In working with Emmi, we all said 'We want to maintain our partnerships, we want to maintain who we work with, how we buy from local producers for the cheese we distribute.' \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So it was such a relief to be able to work with someone who understood agriculture, who wasn't looking for a business you could build up in three years and make a huge profit,\" Conley explained. \"This idea is that it's slow growth, which is how we've always done our growth,\" over the past 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Conley and Smith spent months hammering out the details of their contract with Emmi, which was finalized in May 2016. Like Keehn and Bice, they remain as managing directors, and are working to bring the next level of younger managers into the current decision-making loop. Most importantly, said Conley, \"We're still mentoring young cheesemakers--that's a huge part of our mission.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The big value of these three companies is where they are, in their roots in what they do,\" said Kunz, when asked if Emmi could be relied on to keep the businesses local. \"Each company has a totally different culture, but what's common is that they come from strong--very strong!--personalities, which were needed to go over all these hurdles when they were building up these businesses.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And all four women are still, by contract, playing a significant part in their companies' overall decision-making and long-range plans.\"We still pay the same prices, which are probably the highest prices [in the area] for milk, because we really appreciate the quality of milk that we get,\" said Conley. Bice and Keehn pay similarly high prices for their goat milk. (Not to be outdone, Kunz quickly noted that Switzerland has the highest milk prices in the world.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I like to say that it's altruistically selfish,\" said Smith. \"If you do the right thing, it works out.\"\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/114853/switzerland-gets-a-foothold-in-the-northern-california-cheese-industry","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_188","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1875"],"tags":["bayareabites_14750","bayareabites_404","bayareabites_10090","bayareabites_519"],"featImg":"bayareabites_114903","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_82616":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_82616","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"82616","score":null,"sort":[1401307418000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamerys-got-tips","title":"Want Your Cheese To Age Gracefully? Cowgirl Creamery's Got Tips","publishDate":1401307418,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82617\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1599px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-01-1cf25f9bae41cda574d25ae0a38cc6a7b2c945e7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-01-1cf25f9bae41cda574d25ae0a38cc6a7b2c945e7.jpg\" alt=\"Sue Conley (left) and Peggy Smith, co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery, prepare their chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"1599\" height=\"1198\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82617\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sue Conley (left) and Peggy Smith, co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery, prepare their chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/28/313146276/want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamery-s-got-tips\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140528_me_want_your_cheese_to_age_gracefully_cowgirl_creamerys_got_tips.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/125167196/npr-staff/archive\">NPR Staff\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/28/313146276/want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamery-s-got-tips\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/28/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the world of cheese, much like in the world of wine, the ultimate mark of success is acceptance by the French. That's exactly what happened to Sue Conley and Peggy Smith, co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery in northern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/316471814/cowgirl-creamery-cooks\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-cooks.jpg\" alt=\"cowgirl-creamery-cooks\" width=\"300\" height=\"402\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-82634\">\u003c/a>In 2010, when they were inducted into the prestigious Guilde des Fromagers, they were among the first wave of American cheesemakers to join its ranks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cowgirl Creamery also put out its first cookbook in late 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Morning Edition's\u003c/em> Renee Montagne met up with Sue Conley and Peggy Smith at their creamery in Point Reyes Station, a postage stamp of a place north of San Francisco where the wind seems to let up only to let in the fog.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their journey to the pinnacle of the cheese world began at the University of Tennessee, where they became fast friends in the early 1970s. It continued a few years later on a road trip west to San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the book, they write about driving a little car across the Golden Gate Bridge on July 4, 1976, which was the bicentennial. And at that very moment, there was a revolution in food going on here in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When we came out to California, people were really interested in ingredients and techniques,\" says Smith.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And then the range of food that was available here, the natural food where you could buy things at the neighborhood co-op that were in bins, and funky apples from somebody's tree, and just a much different food scene,\" says Conley. \"So we both kind of got interested in the profession of cooking, also cheesemaking. When we started, there were four or five cheesemakers in Sonoma and Marin [counties], and today there are 30.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>John Taylor runs Bivalve Dairy in Marin with his wife, Karen, who's a sixth-generation California dairy farmer. Their cows supply milk to the creamery for one signature cheese with a reddish rind, called Red Hawk, named after the red-tailed hawk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82618\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1796px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-4_wide-3b17f4748cfe06d6241b544e473c00e17ac010f2.jpg\" alt=\"Jose Gonzalez monitors the cows at Bivalve Dairy as they walk to be milked at the farm near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"1796\" height=\"1011\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82618\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jose Gonzalez monitors the cows at Bivalve Dairy as they walk to be milked at the farm near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Right now is the middle of our pasture season, our grazing season, so the cows are going out twice a day out to pastures,\" he says. \"So there's a lot of walking involved with these cows.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In spring, clovers, rye grass and barley all make their way into the cow's pasture buffet. That organic snacking yields some especially flavorful milk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82619\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-5-6655aa0802859b11b373577730685ac2f0de5a93.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-5-6655aa0802859b11b373577730685ac2f0de5a93-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"John Taylor of Bivalve Dairy outside the milking barn near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Cowgirl Creamery uses the organic milk from Bivalve in its Red Hawk cheese. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82619\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">John Taylor of Bivalve Dairy outside the milking barn near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Cowgirl Creamery uses the organic milk from Bivalve in its Red Hawk cheese. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"As we taste the milk off of our ranch, at certain times of year they will have different flavors depending on the grass component,\" says Taylor. \"So when the cows go out to graze in the early spring and into the summer, there's some phenomenal flavors that come out. And ultimately, what we're trying to do is partner up with Cowgirl so we can get those flavors into the cheese.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between the dairy and the dinner plate, the semisoft Red Hawk cheese goes through quite a process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside the washing room, a group of workers are leaning over tubs of salty brine, scrubbing off white, fluffy mold from small wheels of cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"White mold — it's protecting the cheese in its first stage of aging,\" says Conley. \"But it's also bringing in that beautiful white mushroom flavor, and then the red rind imparts almost an anchovy, beefy kind of complex flavor.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Red Hawk has won a lot of awards. And it was created by accident.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the early years of Cowgirl Creamery, a visiting cheesemonger from England helped Conley and Smith set up their shop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She brought along that most British of cheeses: a Stilton, which contains microscopic mites on the rind to help age it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This cheesemonger set her cheese down next to a wheel of Conley's cheese, \"and the mites jumped off of the Stilton onto my rind, and they started eating away at the white mold,\" says Conley. \"I brushed them off, but what it did was it killed all of the white mold and encouraged a wild bacteria to grow, which is bacterium linen. So that bacterium just went wild and grew over all the cheese, and I just got frustrated and moved it to the back of the aging room.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it might have ended there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a few weeks later, their friendly English cheesemonger decided to give it a taste and pronounced what became the famous Red Hawk the best thing the cowgirls had ever made.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82620\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-2-7ea18dc2c410c71a989252a16284aa0cf29a5577.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-2-7ea18dc2c410c71a989252a16284aa0cf29a5577-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Brown (left) and Paige Juneau wash Red Hawk cheese at Cowgirl Creamery. Red Hawk is a washed-rind cheese that Cowgirl Creamery developed by accident. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82620\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Brown (left) and Paige Juneau wash Red Hawk cheese at Cowgirl Creamery. Red Hawk is a washed-rind cheese that Cowgirl Creamery developed by accident. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mold, mites and wild bacteria all have their role in making Red Hawk and other great cheeses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when it comes to storing cheese, the cowgirls have some tips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The first thing we say is only buy as much as you're gonna eat in the next couple days,\" says Smith.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the key to keeping cheese fresh is to immediately remove its plastic packaging and wrap it in wax or parchment paper. Conley puts it in the vegetable crisper so it doesn't dry out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The other rule that we have is after you've left it for two weeks,\" says Conley, \"you've bought too much, because you couldn't follow Peggy's directions. So now you have like four expensive bits of dried cheese in your refrigerator. So we recommend never throwing that away.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smith says: \"Grate 'em up and mix 'em in, and make a grilled cheese. Because we always think more than one cheese in a grilled cheese is really good. It evenly distributes it, but it's not heavy, thick cheese, so when you bite into it, it's lighter, but you get all those flavors.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another way to use Red Hawk is to throw it into a potato gratin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When people smell Red Hawk, they think, 'Oh, my gosh, I can't eat that. It's too strong,' so we thought, well, we'd put it in a potato gratin, where it's really mellow,\" says Smith. \"The cheese sort of melts into the potato because it's a little bit porous, and I think it mingles more with the potato than just as a standalone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Red Hawk Potato Gratin from \u003cem>Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/em>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 6 to 8\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Because we love Red Hawk as a table cheese, we rarely cook with it, but this recipe is really good. This is the recipe our customers request most often.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium yellow onion, julienned\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 garlic cloves, diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>10 ounces Red Hawk cheese, cut into 16 wedges\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Heat a cast-iron skillet or saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the butter and olive oil to the pan. When the butter has melted, add the onion and garlic and saute until soft, about 5 minutes. Take the pan off the heat and add the cream and half of the Parmesan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer half of the onion-cream mixture to a glass 13-by-9-inch baking dish or casserole. Arrange half the thin potato slices in an overlapping, flat layer on top of the mixture, and then top with 8 of the Red Hawk wedges. Add the remaining potatoes, layering them evenly, the remaining half of the Red Hawk, and the remaining onion-cream mixture. Sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover the dish with aluminum foil and bake for 45 minutes. Remove the foil and bake until the top is browned and bubbly, about 30 minutes. Let the casserole cool for 10 to 20 minutes. Serve while still warm. (This can be made a few days ahead and stored, tightly covered, in the fridge if you like. Reheat, covered, at 350 degrees for about 10 to 15 minutes.)\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Cowgirl Creamery's Chilled Spring Garlic and Asparagus Soup with Crème Fraîche and Fresh Ricotta\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 4\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The delicate flavor of spring garlic forms the base of this soup. Choose young, tender asparagus for this: You don't puree the asparagus but slice and add it to the soup base just before serving.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>To drain ricotta, gently place the cheese in a colander. Don't worry — it holds its mass and will drain.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82621\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-3_sq-84b656cbea3395ba3e0eacab0d1aae061b0030af.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-3_sq-84b656cbea3395ba3e0eacab0d1aae061b0030af.jpg\" alt=\"A chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta sits on a counter at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82621\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta sits on a counter at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>3 medium spring garlic (with bulbs and stem), halved lengthwise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups peeled, diced Yukon gold potatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups diced yellow onions\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups chicken or vegetable stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup crème fraîche\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 tender asparagus spears\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup fresh, drained ricotta cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon chopped fresh garlic chives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thoroughly clean the spring garlic halves under cold running water. Dice the garlic bulb and any section of the leafy green stem that is soft and pliable. Dice as much spring garlic as needed to produce 1 cup of diced garlic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium pot with a lid, add the butter, and melt over medium heat. When it's melted, add the diced garlic, potatoes and onions. Cook in the covered pot, stirring often and covering between stirrings, until the potatoes are fork-tender and the onions are completely translucent and soft, about 8 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the stock to the pot, and bring the mixture to a simmer. Cook for 5 to 10 minutes, keeping the liquid at a simmer while the ingredients come together. Remove from the heat and stir in the crème fraîche. While the soup cools slightly, set up an ice bath by filling a large bowl with ice and water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carefully puree the soup in a blender or food processor. Pour the puree into a container, cover, and set the container in the ice bath in the refrigerator. Place four soup bowls in the refrigerator to chill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the soup chills, prepare the asparagus. Snap off the woody stems and blanch the spears. Slice off the tip of each spear and set aside to use as a garnish. Cut the rest of each stalk crosswise into rounds. Slice the ricotta into bite-size cubes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the soup base is chilled, stir in the asparagus rounds and salt and season with pepper. Halve the asparagus tips lengthwise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve, ladle the soup into the chilled bowls, add the ricotta cubes and asparagus tips to each bowl, and finish with a sprinkling of garlic chives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many people like to dunk their asparagus in ice water as soon as it comes from the pot. We prefer to blanch the stalks until they're not quite as tender as you'd like them to be. Taste while you blanch, and watch the vegetable's color: when it turns bright green, take a stalk from the pot and taste. If it's almost tender with just a hint of crispness, it's ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as you take the stalks from the water, dry them quickly with a paper towel or clean kitchen towel and then dress them with extra-virgin olive oil, salt, and pepper. The asparagus absorbs the seasonings better if you do this while the stalks are still warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Very fat asparagus can sometimes have a woody stem. Use a vegetable peeler to lightly peel off the skin just from the point where the stalks seem woody. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery were among the first American cheesemakers to be recognized by the prestigious French cheese guild. So they know a thing or two about storing and using old cheese.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1401307418,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":71,"wordCount":2081},"headData":{"title":"Want Your Cheese To Age Gracefully? Cowgirl Creamery's Got Tips | KQED","description":"The co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery were among the first American cheesemakers to be recognized by the prestigious French cheese guild. So they know a thing or two about storing and using old cheese.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Want Your Cheese To Age Gracefully? Cowgirl Creamery's Got Tips","datePublished":"2014-05-28T20:03:38.000Z","dateModified":"2014-05-28T20:03:38.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"82616 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=82616","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/05/28/want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamerys-got-tips/","disqusTitle":"Want Your Cheese To Age Gracefully? Cowgirl Creamery's Got Tips","nprByline":"NPR Staff","nprStoryId":"313146276","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=313146276&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/28/313146276/want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamery-s-got-tips?ft=3&f=313146276","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 28 May 2014 10:55:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 28 May 2014 03:29:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 28 May 2014 10:55:12 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140528_me_want_your_cheese_to_age_gracefully_cowgirl_creamerys_got_tips.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=313146276","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1316552701-455e06.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=313146276","path":"/bayareabites/82616/want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamerys-got-tips","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140528_me_want_your_cheese_to_age_gracefully_cowgirl_creamerys_got_tips.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82617\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1599px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-01-1cf25f9bae41cda574d25ae0a38cc6a7b2c945e7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-01-1cf25f9bae41cda574d25ae0a38cc6a7b2c945e7.jpg\" alt=\"Sue Conley (left) and Peggy Smith, co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery, prepare their chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"1599\" height=\"1198\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82617\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sue Conley (left) and Peggy Smith, co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery, prepare their chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/28/313146276/want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamery-s-got-tips\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140528_me_want_your_cheese_to_age_gracefully_cowgirl_creamerys_got_tips.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/125167196/npr-staff/archive\">NPR Staff\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/28/313146276/want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamery-s-got-tips\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/28/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the world of cheese, much like in the world of wine, the ultimate mark of success is acceptance by the French. That's exactly what happened to Sue Conley and Peggy Smith, co-founders of Cowgirl Creamery in northern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/316471814/cowgirl-creamery-cooks\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-cooks.jpg\" alt=\"cowgirl-creamery-cooks\" width=\"300\" height=\"402\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-82634\">\u003c/a>In 2010, when they were inducted into the prestigious Guilde des Fromagers, they were among the first wave of American cheesemakers to join its ranks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cowgirl Creamery also put out its first cookbook in late 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Morning Edition's\u003c/em> Renee Montagne met up with Sue Conley and Peggy Smith at their creamery in Point Reyes Station, a postage stamp of a place north of San Francisco where the wind seems to let up only to let in the fog.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Their journey to the pinnacle of the cheese world began at the University of Tennessee, where they became fast friends in the early 1970s. It continued a few years later on a road trip west to San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the book, they write about driving a little car across the Golden Gate Bridge on July 4, 1976, which was the bicentennial. And at that very moment, there was a revolution in food going on here in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When we came out to California, people were really interested in ingredients and techniques,\" says Smith.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And then the range of food that was available here, the natural food where you could buy things at the neighborhood co-op that were in bins, and funky apples from somebody's tree, and just a much different food scene,\" says Conley. \"So we both kind of got interested in the profession of cooking, also cheesemaking. When we started, there were four or five cheesemakers in Sonoma and Marin [counties], and today there are 30.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>John Taylor runs Bivalve Dairy in Marin with his wife, Karen, who's a sixth-generation California dairy farmer. Their cows supply milk to the creamery for one signature cheese with a reddish rind, called Red Hawk, named after the red-tailed hawk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82618\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1796px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-4_wide-3b17f4748cfe06d6241b544e473c00e17ac010f2.jpg\" alt=\"Jose Gonzalez monitors the cows at Bivalve Dairy as they walk to be milked at the farm near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"1796\" height=\"1011\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82618\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jose Gonzalez monitors the cows at Bivalve Dairy as they walk to be milked at the farm near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Right now is the middle of our pasture season, our grazing season, so the cows are going out twice a day out to pastures,\" he says. \"So there's a lot of walking involved with these cows.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In spring, clovers, rye grass and barley all make their way into the cow's pasture buffet. That organic snacking yields some especially flavorful milk.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82619\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-5-6655aa0802859b11b373577730685ac2f0de5a93.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-5-6655aa0802859b11b373577730685ac2f0de5a93-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"John Taylor of Bivalve Dairy outside the milking barn near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Cowgirl Creamery uses the organic milk from Bivalve in its Red Hawk cheese. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82619\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">John Taylor of Bivalve Dairy outside the milking barn near Point Reyes Station, Calif. Cowgirl Creamery uses the organic milk from Bivalve in its Red Hawk cheese. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"As we taste the milk off of our ranch, at certain times of year they will have different flavors depending on the grass component,\" says Taylor. \"So when the cows go out to graze in the early spring and into the summer, there's some phenomenal flavors that come out. And ultimately, what we're trying to do is partner up with Cowgirl so we can get those flavors into the cheese.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Between the dairy and the dinner plate, the semisoft Red Hawk cheese goes through quite a process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside the washing room, a group of workers are leaning over tubs of salty brine, scrubbing off white, fluffy mold from small wheels of cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"White mold — it's protecting the cheese in its first stage of aging,\" says Conley. \"But it's also bringing in that beautiful white mushroom flavor, and then the red rind imparts almost an anchovy, beefy kind of complex flavor.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Red Hawk has won a lot of awards. And it was created by accident.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the early years of Cowgirl Creamery, a visiting cheesemonger from England helped Conley and Smith set up their shop.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She brought along that most British of cheeses: a Stilton, which contains microscopic mites on the rind to help age it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This cheesemonger set her cheese down next to a wheel of Conley's cheese, \"and the mites jumped off of the Stilton onto my rind, and they started eating away at the white mold,\" says Conley. \"I brushed them off, but what it did was it killed all of the white mold and encouraged a wild bacteria to grow, which is bacterium linen. So that bacterium just went wild and grew over all the cheese, and I just got frustrated and moved it to the back of the aging room.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it might have ended there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a few weeks later, their friendly English cheesemonger decided to give it a taste and pronounced what became the famous Red Hawk the best thing the cowgirls had ever made.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82620\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-2-7ea18dc2c410c71a989252a16284aa0cf29a5577.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-2-7ea18dc2c410c71a989252a16284aa0cf29a5577-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Brown (left) and Paige Juneau wash Red Hawk cheese at Cowgirl Creamery. Red Hawk is a washed-rind cheese that Cowgirl Creamery developed by accident. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82620\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Brown (left) and Paige Juneau wash Red Hawk cheese at Cowgirl Creamery. Red Hawk is a washed-rind cheese that Cowgirl Creamery developed by accident. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Mold, mites and wild bacteria all have their role in making Red Hawk and other great cheeses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when it comes to storing cheese, the cowgirls have some tips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The first thing we say is only buy as much as you're gonna eat in the next couple days,\" says Smith.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the key to keeping cheese fresh is to immediately remove its plastic packaging and wrap it in wax or parchment paper. Conley puts it in the vegetable crisper so it doesn't dry out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The other rule that we have is after you've left it for two weeks,\" says Conley, \"you've bought too much, because you couldn't follow Peggy's directions. So now you have like four expensive bits of dried cheese in your refrigerator. So we recommend never throwing that away.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smith says: \"Grate 'em up and mix 'em in, and make a grilled cheese. Because we always think more than one cheese in a grilled cheese is really good. It evenly distributes it, but it's not heavy, thick cheese, so when you bite into it, it's lighter, but you get all those flavors.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another way to use Red Hawk is to throw it into a potato gratin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"When people smell Red Hawk, they think, 'Oh, my gosh, I can't eat that. It's too strong,' so we thought, well, we'd put it in a potato gratin, where it's really mellow,\" says Smith. \"The cheese sort of melts into the potato because it's a little bit porous, and I think it mingles more with the potato than just as a standalone.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Red Hawk Potato Gratin from \u003cem>Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/em>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 6 to 8\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Because we love Red Hawk as a table cheese, we rarely cook with it, but this recipe is really good. This is the recipe our customers request most often.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium yellow onion, julienned\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 garlic cloves, diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>10 ounces Red Hawk cheese, cut into 16 wedges\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Heat a cast-iron skillet or saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the butter and olive oil to the pan. When the butter has melted, add the onion and garlic and saute until soft, about 5 minutes. Take the pan off the heat and add the cream and half of the Parmesan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer half of the onion-cream mixture to a glass 13-by-9-inch baking dish or casserole. Arrange half the thin potato slices in an overlapping, flat layer on top of the mixture, and then top with 8 of the Red Hawk wedges. Add the remaining potatoes, layering them evenly, the remaining half of the Red Hawk, and the remaining onion-cream mixture. Sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover the dish with aluminum foil and bake for 45 minutes. Remove the foil and bake until the top is browned and bubbly, about 30 minutes. Let the casserole cool for 10 to 20 minutes. Serve while still warm. (This can be made a few days ahead and stored, tightly covered, in the fridge if you like. Reheat, covered, at 350 degrees for about 10 to 15 minutes.)\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Cowgirl Creamery's Chilled Spring Garlic and Asparagus Soup with Crème Fraîche and Fresh Ricotta\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 4\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The delicate flavor of spring garlic forms the base of this soup. Choose young, tender asparagus for this: You don't puree the asparagus but slice and add it to the soup base just before serving.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>To drain ricotta, gently place the cheese in a colander. Don't worry — it holds its mass and will drain.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82621\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1500px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-3_sq-84b656cbea3395ba3e0eacab0d1aae061b0030af.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/cowgirl-creamery-3_sq-84b656cbea3395ba3e0eacab0d1aae061b0030af.jpg\" alt=\"A chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta sits on a counter at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\" width=\"1500\" height=\"1500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82621\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A chilled spring garlic and asparagus soup with creme fraiche and fresh ricotta sits on a counter at Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, Calif. Photo: Tim Hussin for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>3 medium spring garlic (with bulbs and stem), halved lengthwise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups peeled, diced Yukon gold potatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups diced yellow onions\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups chicken or vegetable stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup crème fraîche\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 tender asparagus spears\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup fresh, drained ricotta cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon chopped fresh garlic chives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thoroughly clean the spring garlic halves under cold running water. Dice the garlic bulb and any section of the leafy green stem that is soft and pliable. Dice as much spring garlic as needed to produce 1 cup of diced garlic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium pot with a lid, add the butter, and melt over medium heat. When it's melted, add the diced garlic, potatoes and onions. Cook in the covered pot, stirring often and covering between stirrings, until the potatoes are fork-tender and the onions are completely translucent and soft, about 8 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the stock to the pot, and bring the mixture to a simmer. Cook for 5 to 10 minutes, keeping the liquid at a simmer while the ingredients come together. Remove from the heat and stir in the crème fraîche. While the soup cools slightly, set up an ice bath by filling a large bowl with ice and water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carefully puree the soup in a blender or food processor. Pour the puree into a container, cover, and set the container in the ice bath in the refrigerator. Place four soup bowls in the refrigerator to chill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the soup chills, prepare the asparagus. Snap off the woody stems and blanch the spears. Slice off the tip of each spear and set aside to use as a garnish. Cut the rest of each stalk crosswise into rounds. Slice the ricotta into bite-size cubes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the soup base is chilled, stir in the asparagus rounds and salt and season with pepper. Halve the asparagus tips lengthwise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve, ladle the soup into the chilled bowls, add the ricotta cubes and asparagus tips to each bowl, and finish with a sprinkling of garlic chives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many people like to dunk their asparagus in ice water as soon as it comes from the pot. We prefer to blanch the stalks until they're not quite as tender as you'd like them to be. Taste while you blanch, and watch the vegetable's color: when it turns bright green, take a stalk from the pot and taste. If it's almost tender with just a hint of crispness, it's ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as you take the stalks from the water, dry them quickly with a paper towel or clean kitchen towel and then dress them with extra-virgin olive oil, salt, and pepper. The asparagus absorbs the seasonings better if you do this while the stalks are still warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Very fat asparagus can sometimes have a woody stem. Use a vegetable peeler to lightly peel off the skin just from the point where the stalks seem woody. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/82616/want-your-cheese-to-age-gracefully-cowgirl-creamerys-got-tips","authors":["byline_bayareabites_82616"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_188","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_404","bayareabites_12650"],"featImg":"bayareabites_82617","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_79031":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_79031","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"79031","score":null,"sort":[1394642491000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-85-true-story-of-viven-straus-as-a-one-woman-show-with-cheese","title":"The 85% True Story of Vivien Straus -- as a One-Woman Show, with Cheese","publishDate":1394642491,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79036\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/eieioy-vivien-straus1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/eieioy-vivien-straus1.jpg\" alt=\"Vivien Straus will play 15 different characters in her one-woman show. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79036\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vivien Straus will play 15 different characters in her one-woman show. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ever wonder what it would have been like to grow up on the Straus family farm? Or, what that experience might look performed as a one-woman show -- with cheese? Then you definitely won't want to miss Vivien Straus' \u003cem>E-i-E-i-OY! - In Bed with the Farmer's Daughter\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All her childhood, while she grew up on the family dairy farm in Marshall, Straus dreamed of more than cows.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I wanted nothing more than to leave the farm and go to the big city,\" she said. And, that's what she did, acting in New York and Los Angeles, with bit parts in movies and on TV. But, as soon as she left it, she missed the farm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the family dairy became the Straus Family Creamery and went all organic in 1994, Vivien pitched in to help it succeed. She became the vice president of marketing -- a position she held for 11 years -- and created \u003ca href=\"http://cheesetrail.org/\" target=\"_blank\">the Cheese Trail\u003c/a> to promote cheeses in Marin and Sonoma. But, she couldn't shake the acting bug, so instead she traveled back and forth to L.A. and even performed an earlier version of her one-woman show at the San Francisco Fringe Festival in 2002.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't until 2008 that she realized her passions had changed. She moved back north for good, settling in Petaluma, and now works in marketing for Cowgirl Creamery part-time and does consulting part-time with the UC Agriculture extension program, helping three farms in the Sacramento area develop agri-tours. But, she still loves acting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79034\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 360px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/vivandcow.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/vivandcow.jpg\" alt=\"Vivien Straus. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"360\" height=\"540\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79034\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vivien Straus. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, last summer, with encouragement from her writing group, she began rewriting and reworking the autobiographical play she had performed 12 years ago, which she will be performing throughout April in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The show is \"85-95% true,\" said Straus. With the rewriting, she condensed timelines and characters, but the events all happened, she said. The play is based on advice her father gave her about how to find a husband, which she may have taken too literally. \"A guy came over and never left,\" she said -- not until she was able to stand up for herself. To do that, Straus plays 15 different characters throughout the show, including her father, the guy who wouldn't leave, a therapist, a number of San Francisco residents, and her mother.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In case you couldn't tell, it's a comedy, a \"tragic comedy,\" she said. And, there are plenty of bits about cows and farming too. \"You'll learn some about cows and some about my family along the way,\" she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, what would Straus' autobiographical show be without cheese?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because her love of farming and her experience with the dairy is so much a part of her story, Straus asked the local cheesemakers she knows, which is pretty much all of them, if they'd be interested in participating. Now, each performance will also feature a complimentary cheese-tasting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The show is drawing interest and the first weekend has already sold out. Straus is hoping to break even and then who knows. She's working on more shows, including a \"comedy about my mother's death,\" she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I might as well put my adventures on the stage,\" she said. \"We're all dysfunctional\" -- even the Straus's.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>If you go:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>E-i-E-i-OY! - In Bed with the Farmer's Daughter\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nFriday and Saturday at 8 p.m., April 4 - May 10\u003cbr>\nNOHSpace Theater, 2840 Mariposa St., San Francisco\u003cbr>\nTickets: \u003ca href=\"http://vivienstraus.com/\" target=\"_blank\">www.eieiOY.com\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Cheese-tastings and a look inside the Straus family dairy: Vivien Straus, of the Straus Family Creamery, will perform her one-woman autobiographical show in April. Expect cows, jokes, cheese and her playing 15 different characters.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1394911288,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":611},"headData":{"title":"The 85% True Story of Vivien Straus -- as a One-Woman Show, with Cheese | KQED","description":"Cheese-tastings and a look inside the Straus family dairy: Vivien Straus, of the Straus Family Creamery, will perform her one-woman autobiographical show in April. Expect cows, jokes, cheese and her playing 15 different characters.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The 85% True Story of Vivien Straus -- as a One-Woman Show, with Cheese","datePublished":"2014-03-12T16:41:31.000Z","dateModified":"2014-03-15T19:21:28.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"79031 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=79031","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/03/12/the-85-true-story-of-viven-straus-as-a-one-woman-show-with-cheese/","disqusTitle":"The 85% True Story of Vivien Straus -- as a One-Woman Show, with Cheese","path":"/bayareabites/79031/the-85-true-story-of-viven-straus-as-a-one-woman-show-with-cheese","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79036\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/eieioy-vivien-straus1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/eieioy-vivien-straus1.jpg\" alt=\"Vivien Straus will play 15 different characters in her one-woman show. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79036\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vivien Straus will play 15 different characters in her one-woman show. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ever wonder what it would have been like to grow up on the Straus family farm? Or, what that experience might look performed as a one-woman show -- with cheese? Then you definitely won't want to miss Vivien Straus' \u003cem>E-i-E-i-OY! - In Bed with the Farmer's Daughter\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All her childhood, while she grew up on the family dairy farm in Marshall, Straus dreamed of more than cows.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I wanted nothing more than to leave the farm and go to the big city,\" she said. And, that's what she did, acting in New York and Los Angeles, with bit parts in movies and on TV. But, as soon as she left it, she missed the farm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the family dairy became the Straus Family Creamery and went all organic in 1994, Vivien pitched in to help it succeed. She became the vice president of marketing -- a position she held for 11 years -- and created \u003ca href=\"http://cheesetrail.org/\" target=\"_blank\">the Cheese Trail\u003c/a> to promote cheeses in Marin and Sonoma. But, she couldn't shake the acting bug, so instead she traveled back and forth to L.A. and even performed an earlier version of her one-woman show at the San Francisco Fringe Festival in 2002.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't until 2008 that she realized her passions had changed. She moved back north for good, settling in Petaluma, and now works in marketing for Cowgirl Creamery part-time and does consulting part-time with the UC Agriculture extension program, helping three farms in the Sacramento area develop agri-tours. But, she still loves acting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79034\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 360px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/vivandcow.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/vivandcow.jpg\" alt=\"Vivien Straus. Photo: Naomi Fiss\" width=\"360\" height=\"540\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79034\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vivien Straus. Photo: Naomi Fiss\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, last summer, with encouragement from her writing group, she began rewriting and reworking the autobiographical play she had performed 12 years ago, which she will be performing throughout April in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The show is \"85-95% true,\" said Straus. With the rewriting, she condensed timelines and characters, but the events all happened, she said. The play is based on advice her father gave her about how to find a husband, which she may have taken too literally. \"A guy came over and never left,\" she said -- not until she was able to stand up for herself. To do that, Straus plays 15 different characters throughout the show, including her father, the guy who wouldn't leave, a therapist, a number of San Francisco residents, and her mother.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In case you couldn't tell, it's a comedy, a \"tragic comedy,\" she said. And, there are plenty of bits about cows and farming too. \"You'll learn some about cows and some about my family along the way,\" she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But, what would Straus' autobiographical show be without cheese?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because her love of farming and her experience with the dairy is so much a part of her story, Straus asked the local cheesemakers she knows, which is pretty much all of them, if they'd be interested in participating. Now, each performance will also feature a complimentary cheese-tasting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The show is drawing interest and the first weekend has already sold out. Straus is hoping to break even and then who knows. She's working on more shows, including a \"comedy about my mother's death,\" she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I might as well put my adventures on the stage,\" she said. \"We're all dysfunctional\" -- even the Straus's.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>If you go:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>E-i-E-i-OY! - In Bed with the Farmer's Daughter\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\nFriday and Saturday at 8 p.m., April 4 - May 10\u003cbr>\nNOHSpace Theater, 2840 Mariposa St., San Francisco\u003cbr>\nTickets: \u003ca href=\"http://vivienstraus.com/\" target=\"_blank\">www.eieiOY.com\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/79031/the-85-true-story-of-viven-straus-as-a-one-woman-show-with-cheese","authors":["1459"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_1874","bayareabites_2407","bayareabites_334"],"tags":["bayareabites_13156","bayareabites_404","bayareabites_9533","bayareabites_10172","bayareabites_466","bayareabites_13155"],"featImg":"bayareabites_79036","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_77318":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_77318","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"77318","score":null,"sort":[1391039944000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"what-does-artisanal-mean-anyway","title":"What Does “Artisanal” Mean, Anyway?","publishDate":1391039944,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77328\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 610px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/june_taylor_jam.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/june_taylor_jam.jpg\" alt=\"June Taylor Jam. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"610\" height=\"410\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77328\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">June Taylor Jam. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Brie Mazurek, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/article/what-does-artisanal-mean-anyway\">Online Education Manager for CUESA\u003c/a> (1/22/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last December, the \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> offered a list of \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2013/12/29/opinion/egan-words-for-the-dumpster.html?_r=1&\">words for the dumpster\u003c/a>, tired and worn-out terms ready for retirement in 2014. Topping the list was “artisan,” a term used in the marketing of products ranging from small-batch pickles and preserves to Tostitos tortilla chips and Starbucks sandwiches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless of mainstream attempts to co-opt the label, a truly artisanal food movement—based in craft, community, tradition, and innovation—is alive and kicking. For these businesses, growth is not something to take lightly; it’s a delicate dance between staying true to one’s values while adapting to new economies of scale.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last Monday, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/\">CUESA\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/category/kitchen-table-talks-2/\">Kitchen Table Talks\u003c/a>, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/\">Good Food Awards\u003c/a> co-hosted a \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/event/scaling-artisanal-food-how-big-too-big\">panel discussion\u003c/a> with three successful artisan business owners, posing the tough question, “How big is too big in artisanal food?” Moderator Marcy Coburn of the Oakland-based \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodcraftinstitute.org/\">Food Craft Institute\u003c/a> grilled panelists on what it means to be an artisan and how to grow with integrity in an expanding, and sometimes dubious, “artisanal” market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77329\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/scaling_up_artisan.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/scaling_up_artisan.jpg\" alt=\"Elias Cairo, June Taylor, and Sue Conley. Photo courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"250\" height=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77329\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Elias Cairo, June Taylor, and Sue Conley. Photo courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sue Conley, co-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>, a cheese-making business based in Petaluma and Point Reyes, and Elias Cairo, salumist at the Portland charcuterie maker \u003ca href=\"http://www.olympicprovisions.com/\">Olympic Provisions\u003c/a>, represented the larger end of the artisan spectrum, with upwards of 80 employees each. On the microbusiness side was June Taylor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.junetaylorjams.com/\">June Taylor Company\u003c/a>, who has been making small-batch preserves “seven jars at a time” in Berkeley for 20+ years, with the help of only two employees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What does it mean to be an ethical, sustainable, and viable food artisan in today’s world, and how do consumers distinguish the real deal from the impostors? Beyond a dedication to their craft, certain themes emerged among the panelists as principles they won’t compromise on:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Commitment to local farms and community.\u003c/strong> All three businesses source directly from their local foodshed, and they develop strong relationships by paying a fair price. “As we started scaling up, we really tried to support the farmers off the bat,” said Cairo, noting that all of Olympic Provisions’ pork now comes from a Mennonite family farm in the Northwest. Cowgirl gets all the milk for their cheese from Straus Family Creamery and a couple other small organic dairy farmers in their area, while June Taylor directly sources 90 to 95% of her fruit from California famers—never from outside the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Flexibility and creativity.\u003c/strong> Much like farmers, small food makers are often vulnerable to the vagaries of nature, but Taylor uses these challenges to hone her craft. She changes her offerings depending on what fruit is available, and she has learned patience and flexibility from the resilient farmers she sources from. “The personality to stay with your product after you see it destroyed…it’s just amazing,” she said. “I have to take that same attitude [with my own product].”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Transparency and education.\u003c/strong> These artisan producers got their start selling at farmers markets, and they continue to rely on direct marketing to educate and connect with their customer base, even as sales grow through online, retail, and wholesale channels. Cowgirl Creamery regularly hosts tours to open up their creameries to their community. That kind of transparency is key, according to Conley. “It’s honest. You really understand how [the cheese is] made, who made it, where the cows are from, what kind of cows, what kind of pasture…these are the things that make it a good cheese.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77330\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/cowgirl_creamery_cheese_racks.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/cowgirl_creamery_cheese_racks.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery cheese racks. Photo courtesy of Cowgirl Creamery\" width=\"250\" height=\"256\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77330\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cowgirl Creamery cheese racks. Photo courtesy of Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hands-on quality control.\u003c/strong> As small companies grow, there may be a temptation to outsource some of the production to keep up with demand through practices such as co-packing. If such relationships are not overseen or managed responsibly, quality can suffer. “We’re completely copacker-free,” said Cairo proudly. “We make every single product that’s on our line.” Cowgirl and Taylor also make all their own products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Employee health and respect.\u003c/strong> How big is too big? For Cairo, it’s “as soon as I see that tipping point of miserableness at my meat plant—of people not respecting and loving what we’re doing.” He regards his workers as his family, noting that he’s only lost one employee in five years of business. Paying workers well, offering health insurance, and ensuring a respectful, fun, and rewarding work environment are essential to his business’ mission and health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Innovation in moderation.\u003c/strong> Does “handcrafted” preclude technology? As Conley pointed out, much of small-scale production is hard, repetitive work. “I think we can mechanize parts of our production in the future that would allow us to get bigger and be more fun,” said Conley. “We’re hand-packing [our cheese], and it’s really hard. I think there are ways to take the backbreaking part out.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Passing on their craft.\u003c/strong> Give someone a jar of preserves and they will eat for a day. Show them how to preserve food and they will eat for a lifetime. Developing skilled workers and educating the public are ways to extend the fruits of one’s artisanal labors. Taylor offers classes in her workshop, \u003ca href=\"http://www.junetaylorjams.com/where/stillroom.htm\">The Still-Room\u003c/a>, and has dreams of one day turning it into a youth learning center. “I’ve dedicated 25 years of my life to this craft,” she said. “If nobody came up and did it in the next generation, it would be a real waste.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Collaboration, not competition.\u003c/strong> As support for handcrafted food grows, is there room for more truly artisanal businesses? “There’s a spirit of ‘the more the merrier,’ and if we’re all identified as a bloc, it’s much more powerful,” said Conley. Through Cowgirl’s cheese shops, she and her business partner Peggy Smith have helped to foster identity and connections for small cheese producers throughout their region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Taylor put it, “We have to break down this massive operational style of thinking about food into smaller units. The more small companies that grow, the better.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the full talk “How big is too big in artisanal food?”\u003c/strong> [audio src=\"http://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/blogs/bayareabites/cuesa-scaling_up_artisanal_food.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can find June Taylor Company and Cowgirl Creamery at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market on Saturdays.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"On January 20, CUESA, Kitchen Table Talks, and the Good Food Awards co-hosted a panel discussion with three successful artisan business owners, posing the tough question, “How big is too big in artisanal food?” Read the main principles discussed and listen to the talk.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1391041596,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":19,"wordCount":1141},"headData":{"title":"What Does “Artisanal” Mean, Anyway? | KQED","description":"On January 20, CUESA, Kitchen Table Talks, and the Good Food Awards co-hosted a panel discussion with three successful artisan business owners, posing the tough question, “How big is too big in artisanal food?” Read the main principles discussed and listen to the talk.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"What Does “Artisanal” Mean, Anyway?","datePublished":"2014-01-29T23:59:04.000Z","dateModified":"2014-01-30T00:26:36.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"77318 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=77318","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/01/29/what-does-artisanal-mean-anyway/","disqusTitle":"What Does “Artisanal” Mean, Anyway?","path":"/bayareabites/77318/what-does-artisanal-mean-anyway","audioUrl":"http://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/blogs/bayareabites/cuesa-scaling_up_artisanal_food.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77328\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 610px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/june_taylor_jam.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/june_taylor_jam.jpg\" alt=\"June Taylor Jam. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"610\" height=\"410\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77328\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">June Taylor Jam. Photo: Courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Brie Mazurek, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/article/what-does-artisanal-mean-anyway\">Online Education Manager for CUESA\u003c/a> (1/22/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last December, the \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> offered a list of \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2013/12/29/opinion/egan-words-for-the-dumpster.html?_r=1&\">words for the dumpster\u003c/a>, tired and worn-out terms ready for retirement in 2014. Topping the list was “artisan,” a term used in the marketing of products ranging from small-batch pickles and preserves to Tostitos tortilla chips and Starbucks sandwiches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless of mainstream attempts to co-opt the label, a truly artisanal food movement—based in craft, community, tradition, and innovation—is alive and kicking. For these businesses, growth is not something to take lightly; it’s a delicate dance between staying true to one’s values while adapting to new economies of scale.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last Monday, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/\">CUESA\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/category/kitchen-table-talks-2/\">Kitchen Table Talks\u003c/a>, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.goodfoodawards.org/\">Good Food Awards\u003c/a> co-hosted a \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/event/scaling-artisanal-food-how-big-too-big\">panel discussion\u003c/a> with three successful artisan business owners, posing the tough question, “How big is too big in artisanal food?” Moderator Marcy Coburn of the Oakland-based \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodcraftinstitute.org/\">Food Craft Institute\u003c/a> grilled panelists on what it means to be an artisan and how to grow with integrity in an expanding, and sometimes dubious, “artisanal” market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77329\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/scaling_up_artisan.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/scaling_up_artisan.jpg\" alt=\"Elias Cairo, June Taylor, and Sue Conley. Photo courtesy of CUESA\" width=\"250\" height=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77329\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Elias Cairo, June Taylor, and Sue Conley. Photo courtesy of CUESA\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Sue Conley, co-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>, a cheese-making business based in Petaluma and Point Reyes, and Elias Cairo, salumist at the Portland charcuterie maker \u003ca href=\"http://www.olympicprovisions.com/\">Olympic Provisions\u003c/a>, represented the larger end of the artisan spectrum, with upwards of 80 employees each. On the microbusiness side was June Taylor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.junetaylorjams.com/\">June Taylor Company\u003c/a>, who has been making small-batch preserves “seven jars at a time” in Berkeley for 20+ years, with the help of only two employees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What does it mean to be an ethical, sustainable, and viable food artisan in today’s world, and how do consumers distinguish the real deal from the impostors? Beyond a dedication to their craft, certain themes emerged among the panelists as principles they won’t compromise on:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Commitment to local farms and community.\u003c/strong> All three businesses source directly from their local foodshed, and they develop strong relationships by paying a fair price. “As we started scaling up, we really tried to support the farmers off the bat,” said Cairo, noting that all of Olympic Provisions’ pork now comes from a Mennonite family farm in the Northwest. Cowgirl gets all the milk for their cheese from Straus Family Creamery and a couple other small organic dairy farmers in their area, while June Taylor directly sources 90 to 95% of her fruit from California famers—never from outside the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Flexibility and creativity.\u003c/strong> Much like farmers, small food makers are often vulnerable to the vagaries of nature, but Taylor uses these challenges to hone her craft. She changes her offerings depending on what fruit is available, and she has learned patience and flexibility from the resilient farmers she sources from. “The personality to stay with your product after you see it destroyed…it’s just amazing,” she said. “I have to take that same attitude [with my own product].”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Transparency and education.\u003c/strong> These artisan producers got their start selling at farmers markets, and they continue to rely on direct marketing to educate and connect with their customer base, even as sales grow through online, retail, and wholesale channels. Cowgirl Creamery regularly hosts tours to open up their creameries to their community. That kind of transparency is key, according to Conley. “It’s honest. You really understand how [the cheese is] made, who made it, where the cows are from, what kind of cows, what kind of pasture…these are the things that make it a good cheese.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_77330\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/cowgirl_creamery_cheese_racks.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/01/cowgirl_creamery_cheese_racks.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery cheese racks. Photo courtesy of Cowgirl Creamery\" width=\"250\" height=\"256\" class=\"size-full wp-image-77330\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cowgirl Creamery cheese racks. Photo courtesy of Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hands-on quality control.\u003c/strong> As small companies grow, there may be a temptation to outsource some of the production to keep up with demand through practices such as co-packing. If such relationships are not overseen or managed responsibly, quality can suffer. “We’re completely copacker-free,” said Cairo proudly. “We make every single product that’s on our line.” Cowgirl and Taylor also make all their own products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Employee health and respect.\u003c/strong> How big is too big? For Cairo, it’s “as soon as I see that tipping point of miserableness at my meat plant—of people not respecting and loving what we’re doing.” He regards his workers as his family, noting that he’s only lost one employee in five years of business. Paying workers well, offering health insurance, and ensuring a respectful, fun, and rewarding work environment are essential to his business’ mission and health.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Innovation in moderation.\u003c/strong> Does “handcrafted” preclude technology? As Conley pointed out, much of small-scale production is hard, repetitive work. “I think we can mechanize parts of our production in the future that would allow us to get bigger and be more fun,” said Conley. “We’re hand-packing [our cheese], and it’s really hard. I think there are ways to take the backbreaking part out.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Passing on their craft.\u003c/strong> Give someone a jar of preserves and they will eat for a day. Show them how to preserve food and they will eat for a lifetime. Developing skilled workers and educating the public are ways to extend the fruits of one’s artisanal labors. Taylor offers classes in her workshop, \u003ca href=\"http://www.junetaylorjams.com/where/stillroom.htm\">The Still-Room\u003c/a>, and has dreams of one day turning it into a youth learning center. “I’ve dedicated 25 years of my life to this craft,” she said. “If nobody came up and did it in the next generation, it would be a real waste.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Collaboration, not competition.\u003c/strong> As support for handcrafted food grows, is there room for more truly artisanal businesses? “There’s a spirit of ‘the more the merrier,’ and if we’re all identified as a bloc, it’s much more powerful,” said Conley. Through Cowgirl’s cheese shops, she and her business partner Peggy Smith have helped to foster identity and connections for small cheese producers throughout their region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Taylor put it, “We have to break down this massive operational style of thinking about food into smaller units. The more small companies that grow, the better.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the full talk “How big is too big in artisanal food?”\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/blogs/bayareabites/cuesa-scaling_up_artisanal_food.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can find June Taylor Company and Cowgirl Creamery at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market on Saturdays.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/77318/what-does-artisanal-mean-anyway","authors":["5484"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_12276","bayareabites_2638","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_2223","bayareabites_404","bayareabites_13011","bayareabites_13010","bayareabites_8828","bayareabites_580","bayareabites_8675","bayareabites_13009","bayareabites_13008","bayareabites_9058"],"featImg":"bayareabites_77328","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_73233":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_73233","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"73233","score":null,"sort":[1383479297000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"cheese-pioneers-an-interview-with-cowgirl-creamery-about-their-first-book-cowgirl-creamery-cooks","title":"Cheese Pioneers: An Interview with Cowgirl Creamery about their First Book \"Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\"","publishDate":1383479297,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73259\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 610px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_cheese.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_cheese.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery Cheese. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\" width=\"610\" height=\"407\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73259\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cowgirl Creamery Cheese. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Post by Brie Mazurek,\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/article/cheese-pioneers-interview-cowgirl-creamery\">\u003cstrong>Online Education Manager for CUESA\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (10/31/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sue Conley and Peggy Smith of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a> have been blazing trails for more than 30 years. After moving West in the seventies, they immersed themselves in the Bay Area food revolution, Peggy in the kitchen at Chez Panisse and Sue at Fourth Street Grill and Bette’s Oceanview Diner. In the late 1980s, they decided to explore new frontiers in Marin, supporting farmers and producers directly and becoming pioneering cheese makers in the process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In their new book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/cowgirl-creamery-cooks\">Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/a> (Chronicle Books), the two cowgirls share their story, their knowledge of cheese, and some of their favorite recipes. We talked with Sue Conley about the book and how an old barn in Point Reyes helped spur a burgeoning artisan cheese movement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73262\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_sue_peggy.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_sue_peggy.jpg\" alt=\"Sue Conley (L) and Peggy Smith (R) of Cowgirl Creamery. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\" width=\"250\" height=\"186\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73262\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sue Conley (L) and Peggy Smith (R) of Cowgirl Creamery. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: Can you tell us about your journey into the cheese business?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sue Conley:\u003c/strong> I moved to Point Reyes in 1989, and almost the first day I was there I met Ellen Straus of \u003ca href=\"http://strausfamilycreamery.com/\">Straus Family Creamery\u003c/a>. Dairies were in danger at the time because we were so close to the city. Property values were really exploding, and developers had purchased much of the land. Ellen had helped start the \u003ca href=\"http://www.malt.org/home\">Marin Agricultural Land Trust\u003c/a> to enable farmers to sell their development rights and get cash to put back into their operation [by placing an agricultural easement on their property, preserving it in perpetuity]. It was a new idea, the first of its kind in the US.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ellen had said that unless farmers do something that’s profitable and a little more fun than selling milk into the commodity market, they won’t want to farm, even if their land is set aside. They would need to do things like transition to organic or make value-added products. I said, “I’d love to help with that idea.” Her son, Albert, was just starting to transition his dairy to organic, and it became the first organic dairy in the West.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I bought a barn in Point Reyes, an old broken-down place. We were going to have art studios upstairs and a food business downstairs, a showcase for agricultural goods in our county. Peggy and I started working on a business plan to provide a direct market for the producers. Our first producer was Albert, and we knew a couple cheese makers in Sonoma who were just getting going at the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: How did you start making cheese?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SC:\u003c/strong> We thought that we should make our own fresh cheese, so that people could see the cheese being made when they walk in, and on the other end of the barn, they could have a cheese sandwich at a little deli. I made the cheese and Peggy did the cooking. We made cottage cheese, fromage blanc, and crème fraîche, and as we matured in our business and confidence, we made aged cheese. It takes a long time to develop a system, skills, and the staff to make great cheese, but we had the one important thing, and that was good milk. Even today, 90% of the milk in our cheese comes from Albert Straus’s farm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we started our company in 1997, no one would distribute our handmade cheese because it was fresh and fragile and expensive, so we had to buy a truck and deliver it ourselves. And since we were already going to restaurants and retailers in the city, we decided we should also bring the other cheeses we sold, so we became a distributor for these newly developing cheese businesses. Distribution became key to these dairy families feeling confident embarking on something new. That’s something we’re very proud of, and it’s as important to us as making great cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73261\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_cow.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_cow.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery cow. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\" width=\"250\" height=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73261\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cowgirl Creamery cow. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: When you started making cheese, how did you find your niche?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SC:\u003c/strong> We tried to highlight the beautiful flavors in the milk we were using. That was something we learned from traveling to England, France, and Italy. The cheese makers there think about what the animals are eating, what breed the animal is, how the animal is cared for, what’s growing in the pasture, and how the pasture is cared for. Until you have all of that in line, you shouldn’t start to make cheese. That really stuck with us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In our experiences traveling to France, England, and Italy, we saw that people can make very good livings on small production, specialty cheese. We drew inspiration from Neal’s Yard Dairy in London and Jean d’Alos in Bordeaux, France, and modeled our business after them. They sold cheese from other producers on the counter, but they made their own fresh cheese and yogurt. They really wanted to highlight the taste of the milk that was local to their place. That continues to be the niche that we fill at Cowgirl Creamery. We’re also certified organic, and there are very few certified organic cheese producers in the artisanal world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: Can you say more about how sustainability fits into your business model?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SC:\u003c/strong> We buy milk that is from a sustainable farm with humane treatment of animals. We also believe in paying the people who work with us a fair wage, whether it’s a cheese monger, cheese maker, or a driver. Everybody in the company is committed to preserving sustainable agriculture in our region. It’s at the core of our mission.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_cooks.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_cooks.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery Cooks by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith\" width=\"250\" height=\"336\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-73260\">\u003c/a>\u003cstrong>CUESA: Why did you decide to write a book?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SC:\u003c/strong> Chronicle Books (which is owned by the family that also owns McEvoy Ranch, our neighbors and farmers in our county) had been after us for a while to do a book, but we didn’t feel that we were ready. Farming and cheese making are fragile economies, and we were encouraging farmers to do something that we weren’t yet sure would really work. We had seen it work in Europe, but we didn’t know if farmers here would be able to sustain themselves. We didn’t know if Albert would be successful in his organic venture, or if we would be able to pay our bills. Coming to the Ferry Building 10 years ago was a huge boost for us because it gave international exposure to our company and the other cheese makers. In the last five years, we’ve really been able to get ahead of our debt and investment from building the company from nothing. We didn’t want to write about that until we were sure that it would work, but now we think it does.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: What are you hoping readers will take away from the book?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SC:\u003c/strong> Hopefully, it’ll give you a general understanding of how cheese is made. The book is basically a narrative with recipes. We discuss the styles of cheeses in the order that we learned to make them, starting with the simplest fresh cheeses, then soft-ripened and mold-ripened cheeses, aged cheeses, grating cheeses, and blues. Each chapter has a description of how the cheese is made and how to cook with it. We also have a chapter on how to taste cheese and planning a cheese course. We talk a lot about milk, the different qualities of milk, and the milksheds that have been cheese-making clusters in the US. And we talk about why small cheese makers working together can make something that’s more interesting and successful than one big cheese company or lots of them scattered about. As it works in Europe, it works here, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can find Cowgirl Creamery at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market on Saturdays and at their retail shop inside the Ferry Building seven days a week.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Cowgirl Creamery photography by Hirsheimer & Hamilton, reprinted with permission from Chronicle Books.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/recipe/winter-salad-greens-persimmon-vinaigrette-and-mt-tam\">Winter Salad Greens with Persimmon Vinaigrette and Mt Tam\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73258\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 590px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mt_tam_cheese_large.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mt_tam_cheese_large.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery Mt Tam cheese. Photo: Courtesy of Cowgirl Creamery\" width=\"590\" height=\"393\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73258\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cowgirl Creamery Mt Tam cheese. Photo: Courtesy of Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Source:\u003c/strong> Sue Conley and Peggy Smith, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/cowgirl-creamery-cooks\">Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have beautiful lettuce that you’ve grown yourself or found in a farmers market, this might be the recipe to use. When Peggy finds exceptional lettuce, she thinks of Jean-Pierre Moullé, the chef at Chez Panisse, as well as our good friend Todd Koons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A classically trained French chef, Jean-Pierre Moullé is a thoughtful, caring cook who shares his knowledge generously. His influence on a generation of cooks is far-reaching; many people who cook today have adopted his cooking style. The cooks who worked with Jean-Pierre perhaps loved best that Jean-Pierre always gave you (or his cooking) his entire attention and welcomed questions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jean-Pierre is an accomplished hunter and fisherman, but Peggy associates him with lettuce because of the delicate lettuces he harvested from his tiny garden in Berkeley. Peggy viewed it as an honor and a privilege when Jean-Pierre asked her to care for his garden while he went on vacation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jean-Pierre brought all of his lettuces to Chez Panisse; Todd Koons, at the age of nineteen, realized that California restaurants would buy many of the specialty lettuces that weren’t available in the United States at that time (unless you knew Jean-Pierre). Todd helped bring organic, field-grown heirloom lettuces to a wider market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jean-Pierre has changed much more than the type of lettuce we find in restaurants today. Peggy speaks for many cooks when she expresses gratitude for the many lessons Jean-Pierre taught—most important, always spend the time needed to do a task well and always appreciate the food on the plate, the wine in the glass, and the people around you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 4\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>INGREDIENTS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Persimmon Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoon Champagne vinegar\u003cbr>\n1 small shallot, minced\u003cbr>\n1/2 ripe Fuyu persimmon, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped, juices reserved\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil\u003cbr>\nFine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups fresh, beautiful greens (any combination of radicchio, speckled lettuce, Belgian endive, or escarole), washed and torn into pieces\u003cbr>\n1/2 ripe Fuyu persimmon, peeled, seeded, and chopped\u003cbr>\n4 slices Levain bread, cut slightly on the diagonal\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons Mt Tam cheese (paste only, not the rind)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>PREPARATION\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. To make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, pour the vinegar over the shallot. Let it sit for 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Whisk together the finely chopped persimmon and any juice with the shallot and Champagne vinegar. Whisk in the olive oil slowly, and continue whisking until it emulsifies. Add 1/4 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper, taste the vinaigrette, and decide if you’d like more salt and pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. When you’re just about ready to serve, dress the salad greens with the vinaigrette. Divide the dressed greens onto four salad plates and top with the persimmon chunks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Very lightly toast the bread slices. You want them to be warm but still tender and not overly crisp. Spread 1 tablespoon of Mt Tam on each warm bread slice, set it on the plate beside the salad, and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe reprinted with permission of Chronicle Books. Photo from Cowgirl Creamery.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"In their new book, Cowgirl Creamery Cooks, the two cowgirls share their story, their knowledge of cheese, and some of their favorite recipes. CUESA talked with Sue Conley about the book and how an old barn in Point Reyes helped spur a burgeoning artisan cheese movement. Get the recipe for \u003cem>Winter Salad Greens with Persimmon Vinaigrette and Mt Tam\u003c/em>.\r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1383479934,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":39,"wordCount":1919},"headData":{"title":"Cheese Pioneers: An Interview with Cowgirl Creamery about their First Book \"Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\" | KQED","description":"In their new book, Cowgirl Creamery Cooks, the two cowgirls share their story, their knowledge of cheese, and some of their favorite recipes. CUESA talked with Sue Conley about the book and how an old barn in Point Reyes helped spur a burgeoning artisan cheese movement. Get the recipe for Winter Salad Greens with Persimmon Vinaigrette and Mt Tam.\r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Cheese Pioneers: An Interview with Cowgirl Creamery about their First Book \"Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\"","datePublished":"2013-11-03T11:48:17.000Z","dateModified":"2013-11-03T11:58:54.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"73233 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=73233","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/11/03/cheese-pioneers-an-interview-with-cowgirl-creamery-about-their-first-book-cowgirl-creamery-cooks/","disqusTitle":"Cheese Pioneers: An Interview with Cowgirl Creamery about their First Book \"Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\"","path":"/bayareabites/73233/cheese-pioneers-an-interview-with-cowgirl-creamery-about-their-first-book-cowgirl-creamery-cooks","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73259\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 610px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_cheese.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_cheese.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery Cheese. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\" width=\"610\" height=\"407\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73259\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cowgirl Creamery Cheese. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Post by Brie Mazurek,\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/article/cheese-pioneers-interview-cowgirl-creamery\">\u003cstrong>Online Education Manager for CUESA\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (10/31/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sue Conley and Peggy Smith of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a> have been blazing trails for more than 30 years. After moving West in the seventies, they immersed themselves in the Bay Area food revolution, Peggy in the kitchen at Chez Panisse and Sue at Fourth Street Grill and Bette’s Oceanview Diner. In the late 1980s, they decided to explore new frontiers in Marin, supporting farmers and producers directly and becoming pioneering cheese makers in the process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In their new book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/cowgirl-creamery-cooks\">Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/a> (Chronicle Books), the two cowgirls share their story, their knowledge of cheese, and some of their favorite recipes. We talked with Sue Conley about the book and how an old barn in Point Reyes helped spur a burgeoning artisan cheese movement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73262\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_sue_peggy.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_sue_peggy.jpg\" alt=\"Sue Conley (L) and Peggy Smith (R) of Cowgirl Creamery. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\" width=\"250\" height=\"186\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73262\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sue Conley (L) and Peggy Smith (R) of Cowgirl Creamery. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: Can you tell us about your journey into the cheese business?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sue Conley:\u003c/strong> I moved to Point Reyes in 1989, and almost the first day I was there I met Ellen Straus of \u003ca href=\"http://strausfamilycreamery.com/\">Straus Family Creamery\u003c/a>. Dairies were in danger at the time because we were so close to the city. Property values were really exploding, and developers had purchased much of the land. Ellen had helped start the \u003ca href=\"http://www.malt.org/home\">Marin Agricultural Land Trust\u003c/a> to enable farmers to sell their development rights and get cash to put back into their operation [by placing an agricultural easement on their property, preserving it in perpetuity]. It was a new idea, the first of its kind in the US.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ellen had said that unless farmers do something that’s profitable and a little more fun than selling milk into the commodity market, they won’t want to farm, even if their land is set aside. They would need to do things like transition to organic or make value-added products. I said, “I’d love to help with that idea.” Her son, Albert, was just starting to transition his dairy to organic, and it became the first organic dairy in the West.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I bought a barn in Point Reyes, an old broken-down place. We were going to have art studios upstairs and a food business downstairs, a showcase for agricultural goods in our county. Peggy and I started working on a business plan to provide a direct market for the producers. Our first producer was Albert, and we knew a couple cheese makers in Sonoma who were just getting going at the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: How did you start making cheese?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SC:\u003c/strong> We thought that we should make our own fresh cheese, so that people could see the cheese being made when they walk in, and on the other end of the barn, they could have a cheese sandwich at a little deli. I made the cheese and Peggy did the cooking. We made cottage cheese, fromage blanc, and crème fraîche, and as we matured in our business and confidence, we made aged cheese. It takes a long time to develop a system, skills, and the staff to make great cheese, but we had the one important thing, and that was good milk. Even today, 90% of the milk in our cheese comes from Albert Straus’s farm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we started our company in 1997, no one would distribute our handmade cheese because it was fresh and fragile and expensive, so we had to buy a truck and deliver it ourselves. And since we were already going to restaurants and retailers in the city, we decided we should also bring the other cheeses we sold, so we became a distributor for these newly developing cheese businesses. Distribution became key to these dairy families feeling confident embarking on something new. That’s something we’re very proud of, and it’s as important to us as making great cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73261\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 250px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_cow.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_cow.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery cow. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\" width=\"250\" height=\"250\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73261\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cowgirl Creamery cow. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: When you started making cheese, how did you find your niche?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SC:\u003c/strong> We tried to highlight the beautiful flavors in the milk we were using. That was something we learned from traveling to England, France, and Italy. The cheese makers there think about what the animals are eating, what breed the animal is, how the animal is cared for, what’s growing in the pasture, and how the pasture is cared for. Until you have all of that in line, you shouldn’t start to make cheese. That really stuck with us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In our experiences traveling to France, England, and Italy, we saw that people can make very good livings on small production, specialty cheese. We drew inspiration from Neal’s Yard Dairy in London and Jean d’Alos in Bordeaux, France, and modeled our business after them. They sold cheese from other producers on the counter, but they made their own fresh cheese and yogurt. They really wanted to highlight the taste of the milk that was local to their place. That continues to be the niche that we fill at Cowgirl Creamery. We’re also certified organic, and there are very few certified organic cheese producers in the artisanal world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: Can you say more about how sustainability fits into your business model?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SC:\u003c/strong> We buy milk that is from a sustainable farm with humane treatment of animals. We also believe in paying the people who work with us a fair wage, whether it’s a cheese monger, cheese maker, or a driver. Everybody in the company is committed to preserving sustainable agriculture in our region. It’s at the core of our mission.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_cooks.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/cowgirl_creamery_cooks.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery Cooks by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith\" width=\"250\" height=\"336\" class=\"alignright size-full wp-image-73260\">\u003c/a>\u003cstrong>CUESA: Why did you decide to write a book?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SC:\u003c/strong> Chronicle Books (which is owned by the family that also owns McEvoy Ranch, our neighbors and farmers in our county) had been after us for a while to do a book, but we didn’t feel that we were ready. Farming and cheese making are fragile economies, and we were encouraging farmers to do something that we weren’t yet sure would really work. We had seen it work in Europe, but we didn’t know if farmers here would be able to sustain themselves. We didn’t know if Albert would be successful in his organic venture, or if we would be able to pay our bills. Coming to the Ferry Building 10 years ago was a huge boost for us because it gave international exposure to our company and the other cheese makers. In the last five years, we’ve really been able to get ahead of our debt and investment from building the company from nothing. We didn’t want to write about that until we were sure that it would work, but now we think it does.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CUESA: What are you hoping readers will take away from the book?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SC:\u003c/strong> Hopefully, it’ll give you a general understanding of how cheese is made. The book is basically a narrative with recipes. We discuss the styles of cheeses in the order that we learned to make them, starting with the simplest fresh cheeses, then soft-ripened and mold-ripened cheeses, aged cheeses, grating cheeses, and blues. Each chapter has a description of how the cheese is made and how to cook with it. We also have a chapter on how to taste cheese and planning a cheese course. We talk a lot about milk, the different qualities of milk, and the milksheds that have been cheese-making clusters in the US. And we talk about why small cheese makers working together can make something that’s more interesting and successful than one big cheese company or lots of them scattered about. As it works in Europe, it works here, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can find Cowgirl Creamery at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market on Saturdays and at their retail shop inside the Ferry Building seven days a week.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Cowgirl Creamery photography by Hirsheimer & Hamilton, reprinted with permission from Chronicle Books.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/recipe/winter-salad-greens-persimmon-vinaigrette-and-mt-tam\">Winter Salad Greens with Persimmon Vinaigrette and Mt Tam\u003c/a>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73258\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 590px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mt_tam_cheese_large.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/mt_tam_cheese_large.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery Mt Tam cheese. Photo: Courtesy of Cowgirl Creamery\" width=\"590\" height=\"393\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73258\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cowgirl Creamery Mt Tam cheese. Photo: Courtesy of Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Source:\u003c/strong> Sue Conley and Peggy Smith, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/cowgirl-creamery-cooks\">Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have beautiful lettuce that you’ve grown yourself or found in a farmers market, this might be the recipe to use. When Peggy finds exceptional lettuce, she thinks of Jean-Pierre Moullé, the chef at Chez Panisse, as well as our good friend Todd Koons.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A classically trained French chef, Jean-Pierre Moullé is a thoughtful, caring cook who shares his knowledge generously. His influence on a generation of cooks is far-reaching; many people who cook today have adopted his cooking style. The cooks who worked with Jean-Pierre perhaps loved best that Jean-Pierre always gave you (or his cooking) his entire attention and welcomed questions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jean-Pierre is an accomplished hunter and fisherman, but Peggy associates him with lettuce because of the delicate lettuces he harvested from his tiny garden in Berkeley. Peggy viewed it as an honor and a privilege when Jean-Pierre asked her to care for his garden while he went on vacation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jean-Pierre brought all of his lettuces to Chez Panisse; Todd Koons, at the age of nineteen, realized that California restaurants would buy many of the specialty lettuces that weren’t available in the United States at that time (unless you knew Jean-Pierre). Todd helped bring organic, field-grown heirloom lettuces to a wider market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jean-Pierre has changed much more than the type of lettuce we find in restaurants today. Peggy speaks for many cooks when she expresses gratitude for the many lessons Jean-Pierre taught—most important, always spend the time needed to do a task well and always appreciate the food on the plate, the wine in the glass, and the people around you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Serves 4\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>INGREDIENTS\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Persimmon Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoon Champagne vinegar\u003cbr>\n1 small shallot, minced\u003cbr>\n1/2 ripe Fuyu persimmon, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped, juices reserved\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil\u003cbr>\nFine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups fresh, beautiful greens (any combination of radicchio, speckled lettuce, Belgian endive, or escarole), washed and torn into pieces\u003cbr>\n1/2 ripe Fuyu persimmon, peeled, seeded, and chopped\u003cbr>\n4 slices Levain bread, cut slightly on the diagonal\u003cbr>\n4 tablespoons Mt Tam cheese (paste only, not the rind)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>PREPARATION\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. To make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, pour the vinegar over the shallot. Let it sit for 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Whisk together the finely chopped persimmon and any juice with the shallot and Champagne vinegar. Whisk in the olive oil slowly, and continue whisking until it emulsifies. Add 1/4 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper, taste the vinaigrette, and decide if you’d like more salt and pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. When you’re just about ready to serve, dress the salad greens with the vinaigrette. Divide the dressed greens onto four salad plates and top with the persimmon chunks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Very lightly toast the bread slices. You want them to be warm but still tender and not overly crisp. Spread 1 tablespoon of Mt Tam on each warm bread slice, set it on the plate beside the salad, and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Recipe reprinted with permission of Chronicle Books. Photo from Cowgirl Creamery.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/73233/cheese-pioneers-an-interview-with-cowgirl-creamery-about-their-first-book-cowgirl-creamery-cooks","authors":["5484"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_188","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_12276","bayareabites_95","bayareabites_1875"],"tags":["bayareabites_14750","bayareabites_404","bayareabites_12650","bayareabites_2339","bayareabites_9368","bayareabites_10172"],"featImg":"bayareabites_73259","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_47986":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_47986","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"47986","score":null,"sort":[1346252458000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"cheese-expert-laura-werlin-talks-about-seasonality-books-and-travel","title":"Cheese Expert Laura Werlin Talks about Seasonality, Books and Travel","publishDate":1346252458,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/400BABLauraWerlin.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-48117\" title=\"Laura Werlin. Photo courtesy of Maren Caruso\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/400BABLauraWerlin.jpg\" alt=\"Laura Werlin. Photo courtesy of Maren Caruso\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Laura Werlin. Photo courtesy of Maren Caruso\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the best way to get a hold of cheese expert Laura Werlin is first checking her \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/cheezelady\">Twitter\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Laura-Werlin/108896749140707\">Facebook\u003c/a> accounts to find out which city or country she’s in. Werlin is a one-woman show in cheese and spends her time speaking, researching, cooking, writing, and teaching. You may have seen her talking about cheese in a down to earth, knowledgeable yet fun style on CNN, QVC, the Martha Stewart Show, the CBS Early Show or \u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/search?query=laura+werlin&type=\">CHOW.com\u003c/a>; her written work pops up nationally in Food & Wine, Fine Cooking, Saveur, and Cooking Light magazines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Werlin’s forays to industry conferences keep her up to date on the latest and greatest in cheese. She has written five cheese-centric books and nabbed a James Beard award for \u003ca href=\"http://laurawerlin.com/The-All-American-Cheese-and-Wine-Book\">The All American Cheese and Wine Book\u003c/a>. Her sixth book \u003ca href=\"http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/mac-cheese-please-laura-werlin/1111938316\">Mac & Cheese, Please!\u003c/a> will be released at the end of the year. Werlin is an instructor at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cheeseschoolsf.com/\">The Cheese School of San Francisco\u003c/a>, and will be teaching an American cheese class there on October 9th.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ever since I signed up for cooking school in San Francisco in 2000, I’ve seen how Werlin’s professional work is often brought up in discussions about cheese. I was curious to know how exactly she got into working full-time with cheese. (Doesn’t it sound like a fun job?) We first worked together indirectly when I supplied her with volunteers for a cooking demo when I was an Event Manager for SF Chefs in 2010. Last year, I did paid content work for her website. For this Bay Area Bites piece, I interviewed Werlin via telephone and email. Her comments have been edited for clarity and length.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You’ve been a cheese expert since 2000, but what got you into cheese?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Werlin:\u003c/strong> I studied Mass Communications at Cal with the dream of being on TV news. I worked at KRON news and bounced around in the news. Then I got a job in the field in Bakersfield. Later at KPIX I was the assignment manager and would figure out what to assign to reporters. I ended my time at KGO as a field producer for women in business, where I went out and interviewed people. TV news was my love and I did my best to do stories on food and wine people because that was also my love. After many years in the TV news business, I decided I was tired of it so I struck out to be a food writer. I ended up getting a couple of general food articles published that had nothing to do with cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I feel like cheese found me. I wasn’t looking for a subject, and cheese found me. The first story was my book, where I got inspired to write about cheese. I knew instantly that my subject would be cheese. I’ve been lucky and had a charmed life as an author. I found an agent who found a publisher who liked the idea of a book on American cheese by an unknown author. That’s when my first book came out \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-American-Cheese-Laura-Werlin/dp/1556709900\">The New American Cheese\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The way you become an expert is to write a book about it. I didn’t come to cheese because I knew about it. It was something I was very passionate about but I knew nothing about it. In the course of writing it, that was when I started really learning about it. And the learning never stopped.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you get your information about cheese? What’s on your nightstand reading pile?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Werlin:\u003c/strong> I get a lot of info at the cheese counter. It almost doesn’t matter where that is: a cheese shop, a Whole Foods…. If something looks intriguing, I buy it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s one book that I think is great called Mastering Cheese by \u003ca href=\"http://www.maxmccalman.com/\">Max McMalman\u003c/a> who is Maître Fromager in New York. Also I go to conferences and get information there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I took a trip to Holland to learn about Dutch cheese. I go to farms as much as possible but ironically with my travel schedule being what it is, I do that less and less.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Often I will call a cheese maker. There isn’t one way -- you just learn about it. I like a book called \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Growing-Farmer-Learned-Live-Land/dp/0393070859\">Growing a Farmer\u003c/a> and it’s the story of how Kurt Timmermeister came to be a cheese maker. He was an unlikely person from Vashon Island for that to happen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Earlier this month, you were at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.lafw.com/\">Los Angeles Food & Wine Festival\u003c/a>. Events and travel make up much of your work. What’s that like?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Werlin:\u003c/strong> I do travel for cheese, that’s for sure. This is the second year for me at the LA Food & Wine Fest. That’s indicative of a lot of what I do. For the \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/classic\">Food & Wine Classic at Aspen\u003c/a>, this is my 7th year. I do the \u003ca href=\"http://corporate.sobefest.com/\">South Beach Wine and Food Festival\u003c/a> and The \u003ca href=\"http://www.santafewineandchile.org/\">Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta\u003c/a>, which is in its 21st year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In between I always wonder what I do each day. I’m never doing anything fun or frivolous. I consider myself an educator basically making cheese fun and psychologically accessible. People are wary and they buy the same cheese. They feel like there’s a right and wrong and they get hung up on that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you think pronunciation has something to do with people’s fear... similar to not ordering wine because you’re not sure how to say it to the waiter?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Werlin:\u003c/strong> I think it’s a foreign word and I do the same thing with imported wine. With cheese, it’s more being afraid that it’s foreign and they’re not going to like it. I wouldn’t call us Americans a courageous lot. There has to be some familiarity or someone close by who can vouch for it. When you have cheeses that are like the gym socks that you haven’t washed -- it’s counterintuitive. Never mind that it can be transcendent to eat that gym sock cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Werlin:\u003c/strong> I can’t say that I have any mentors. What I would say is the thing that has motivated me all along are the cheese makers themselves. When I used to go to the old farmers' market before it came the ferry building, I made a beeline to the cheese makers. I loved talking to them and I loved what they do and I still feel that way. They’re my inspiration.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They are not mentors but people I was inspired early on by are \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/\">Julia Child\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/jacquespepin/\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a> because I met them at McEvoy Olive oil and I was at their table. I was familiar but I thought they were a God and Goddess and I just wanted to be like them. [Laughs.] Hasn’t happened but it’s an inspiration.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What impressed me was they were really accessible as people and they were so quietly confident. They knew their stuff. Particularly in this day and age, anyone can call themselves a cook. It mattered to them. Don't get me wrong I think food TV is great -- and PBS is a pioneer. Like anything that gets popular, it gets dumbed down and it’s hard to ferret out who’s good at what they do and who’s good at being on television.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are your thoughts on the state of cheese in the Bay Area? Where are we with cheese knowledge and cheese appreciation?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Werlin:\u003c/strong> We're more sophisticated than the rest of the country. No matter what neighborhood you live in, it's near a cheese shop or a Whole Foods. Also, we're just down the road from Pt. Reyes and see the cheese made at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>. We have access to the cheese makers. That’s helpful in breaking down the intimidation factor and helps increase our desire to include cheese in our every day lives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We have a lot of farmers’ markets and that’s a great leveling opportunity. It’s a chance to taste cheese from the cheese maker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What cheeses are good for September -- at home and for picnics?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Werlin:\u003c/strong> Cheese ages at different rates. Sometimes a cheese made in last September is coming ripe in this September. You have a year-old cheese that could be great fun. I like a cheese called \u003ca href=\"http://www.uplandscheese.com/cheese.html\">Pleasant Ridge Reserve\u003c/a> anywhere in the 12-14 month range. Sometimes, you need to be looking back a year. Ask the cheese monger, “What was made last year, what’s good now?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also you’ve had the entire spring and summer where there are cheeses like a fresh chevre. Or try a sheep milk ricotta from \u003ca href=\"http://www.bellwetherfarms.com/\">Bellwether Farms\u003c/a> that is awesome.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or cheese from June and July are coming to perfection. It’s a little bit of looking back and using your cheese monger as help.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If it’s hot, I tend to go for a lighter cheese like \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovechevre.com/cheeses/ripened-cheeses/humboldt-fog.html\">Humboldt Fog\u003c/a> which is creamy and delicious. Maybe don't go for a bandage wrapped cheddar. During the day that wouldn’t be my go-to cheese. In the end what you want to surround yourself with is a variety of maybe three cheeses from different milks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Specifically for September, go for sheep and goats milk that are less changed. They start drying up later in the fall. If you want something fresh and seasonal, our cows here have opposite seasons. The grasses out in February then dry up in summertime. It’s okay because there’s still grass. Cows milk cheese made in February or March may be particularly delicious from California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any foods that are a guilty pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Werlin:\u003c/strong> It’s not really a guilty pleasure but I’m totally in love with beef jerky. I can’t tell you why. There’s the texture and the flavor and it’s often like ingesting leather.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m a big peanut butter fan and will eat a \u003ca href=\"http://www.hersheys.com/reeses/products.aspx#/REESE'S-Peanut-Butter-Cups\">Reese’s\u003c/a> anytime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve never met a potato chip I don't like. I’m more of a salty girl than a sweet one, although I try to be sweet!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/food-news/55147/how-to-make-grilled-cheese-with-laura-werlin/\">\u003cstrong>How to Make Grilled Cheese with Laura Werlin\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (CHOW)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"480\" height=\"270\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://canstatic.cbs.com/chrome/canplayer.swf?pid=BL1Igbf5Fw6g&partner=chow&gen=1\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"allowScriptAccess\" value=\"always\">\u003cembed width=\"480\" height=\"270\" src=\"http://canstatic.cbs.com/chrome/canplayer.swf?pid=BL1Igbf5Fw6g&partner=chow&gen=1\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Mary Ladd interviews Laura Werlin, who is an award-winning cheese educator, author and expert who lives in San Francisco when she’s not on the road. Werlin dishes on the best questions to ask at the cheese counter and shares why she got into cheese back in 2000 after a news media career path.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1428689106,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":39,"wordCount":1816},"headData":{"title":"Cheese Expert Laura Werlin Talks about Seasonality, Books and Travel | KQED","description":"Mary Ladd interviews Laura Werlin, who is an award-winning cheese educator, author and expert who lives in San Francisco when she’s not on the road. Werlin dishes on the best questions to ask at the cheese counter and shares why she got into cheese back in 2000 after a news media career path.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Cheese Expert Laura Werlin Talks about Seasonality, Books and Travel","datePublished":"2012-08-29T15:00:58.000Z","dateModified":"2015-04-10T18:05:06.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"47986 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=47986","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/08/29/cheese-expert-laura-werlin-talks-about-seasonality-books-and-travel/","disqusTitle":"Cheese Expert Laura Werlin Talks about Seasonality, Books and Travel","path":"/bayareabites/47986/cheese-expert-laura-werlin-talks-about-seasonality-books-and-travel","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/400BABLauraWerlin.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-48117\" title=\"Laura Werlin. Photo courtesy of Maren Caruso\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/08/400BABLauraWerlin.jpg\" alt=\"Laura Werlin. Photo courtesy of Maren Caruso\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Laura Werlin. Photo courtesy of Maren Caruso\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the best way to get a hold of cheese expert Laura Werlin is first checking her \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/cheezelady\">Twitter\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Laura-Werlin/108896749140707\">Facebook\u003c/a> accounts to find out which city or country she’s in. Werlin is a one-woman show in cheese and spends her time speaking, researching, cooking, writing, and teaching. You may have seen her talking about cheese in a down to earth, knowledgeable yet fun style on CNN, QVC, the Martha Stewart Show, the CBS Early Show or \u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/search?query=laura+werlin&type=\">CHOW.com\u003c/a>; her written work pops up nationally in Food & Wine, Fine Cooking, Saveur, and Cooking Light magazines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Werlin’s forays to industry conferences keep her up to date on the latest and greatest in cheese. She has written five cheese-centric books and nabbed a James Beard award for \u003ca href=\"http://laurawerlin.com/The-All-American-Cheese-and-Wine-Book\">The All American Cheese and Wine Book\u003c/a>. Her sixth book \u003ca href=\"http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/mac-cheese-please-laura-werlin/1111938316\">Mac & Cheese, Please!\u003c/a> will be released at the end of the year. Werlin is an instructor at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cheeseschoolsf.com/\">The Cheese School of San Francisco\u003c/a>, and will be teaching an American cheese class there on October 9th.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ever since I signed up for cooking school in San Francisco in 2000, I’ve seen how Werlin’s professional work is often brought up in discussions about cheese. I was curious to know how exactly she got into working full-time with cheese. (Doesn’t it sound like a fun job?) We first worked together indirectly when I supplied her with volunteers for a cooking demo when I was an Event Manager for SF Chefs in 2010. Last year, I did paid content work for her website. For this Bay Area Bites piece, I interviewed Werlin via telephone and email. Her comments have been edited for clarity and length.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: You’ve been a cheese expert since 2000, but what got you into cheese?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Werlin:\u003c/strong> I studied Mass Communications at Cal with the dream of being on TV news. I worked at KRON news and bounced around in the news. Then I got a job in the field in Bakersfield. Later at KPIX I was the assignment manager and would figure out what to assign to reporters. I ended my time at KGO as a field producer for women in business, where I went out and interviewed people. TV news was my love and I did my best to do stories on food and wine people because that was also my love. After many years in the TV news business, I decided I was tired of it so I struck out to be a food writer. I ended up getting a couple of general food articles published that had nothing to do with cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I feel like cheese found me. I wasn’t looking for a subject, and cheese found me. The first story was my book, where I got inspired to write about cheese. I knew instantly that my subject would be cheese. I’ve been lucky and had a charmed life as an author. I found an agent who found a publisher who liked the idea of a book on American cheese by an unknown author. That’s when my first book came out \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-American-Cheese-Laura-Werlin/dp/1556709900\">The New American Cheese\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The way you become an expert is to write a book about it. I didn’t come to cheese because I knew about it. It was something I was very passionate about but I knew nothing about it. In the course of writing it, that was when I started really learning about it. And the learning never stopped.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Where do you get your information about cheese? What’s on your nightstand reading pile?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Werlin:\u003c/strong> I get a lot of info at the cheese counter. It almost doesn’t matter where that is: a cheese shop, a Whole Foods…. If something looks intriguing, I buy it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s one book that I think is great called Mastering Cheese by \u003ca href=\"http://www.maxmccalman.com/\">Max McMalman\u003c/a> who is Maître Fromager in New York. Also I go to conferences and get information there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I took a trip to Holland to learn about Dutch cheese. I go to farms as much as possible but ironically with my travel schedule being what it is, I do that less and less.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Often I will call a cheese maker. There isn’t one way -- you just learn about it. I like a book called \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Growing-Farmer-Learned-Live-Land/dp/0393070859\">Growing a Farmer\u003c/a> and it’s the story of how Kurt Timmermeister came to be a cheese maker. He was an unlikely person from Vashon Island for that to happen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Earlier this month, you were at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.lafw.com/\">Los Angeles Food & Wine Festival\u003c/a>. Events and travel make up much of your work. What’s that like?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Werlin:\u003c/strong> I do travel for cheese, that’s for sure. This is the second year for me at the LA Food & Wine Fest. That’s indicative of a lot of what I do. For the \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodandwine.com/classic\">Food & Wine Classic at Aspen\u003c/a>, this is my 7th year. I do the \u003ca href=\"http://corporate.sobefest.com/\">South Beach Wine and Food Festival\u003c/a> and The \u003ca href=\"http://www.santafewineandchile.org/\">Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta\u003c/a>, which is in its 21st year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In between I always wonder what I do each day. I’m never doing anything fun or frivolous. I consider myself an educator basically making cheese fun and psychologically accessible. People are wary and they buy the same cheese. They feel like there’s a right and wrong and they get hung up on that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you think pronunciation has something to do with people’s fear... similar to not ordering wine because you’re not sure how to say it to the waiter?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Werlin:\u003c/strong> I think it’s a foreign word and I do the same thing with imported wine. With cheese, it’s more being afraid that it’s foreign and they’re not going to like it. I wouldn’t call us Americans a courageous lot. There has to be some familiarity or someone close by who can vouch for it. When you have cheeses that are like the gym socks that you haven’t washed -- it’s counterintuitive. Never mind that it can be transcendent to eat that gym sock cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Werlin:\u003c/strong> I can’t say that I have any mentors. What I would say is the thing that has motivated me all along are the cheese makers themselves. When I used to go to the old farmers' market before it came the ferry building, I made a beeline to the cheese makers. I loved talking to them and I loved what they do and I still feel that way. They’re my inspiration.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They are not mentors but people I was inspired early on by are \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/juliachild/\">Julia Child\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/food/jacquespepin/\">Jacques Pépin\u003c/a> because I met them at McEvoy Olive oil and I was at their table. I was familiar but I thought they were a God and Goddess and I just wanted to be like them. [Laughs.] Hasn’t happened but it’s an inspiration.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What impressed me was they were really accessible as people and they were so quietly confident. They knew their stuff. Particularly in this day and age, anyone can call themselves a cook. It mattered to them. Don't get me wrong I think food TV is great -- and PBS is a pioneer. Like anything that gets popular, it gets dumbed down and it’s hard to ferret out who’s good at what they do and who’s good at being on television.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are your thoughts on the state of cheese in the Bay Area? Where are we with cheese knowledge and cheese appreciation?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Werlin:\u003c/strong> We're more sophisticated than the rest of the country. No matter what neighborhood you live in, it's near a cheese shop or a Whole Foods. Also, we're just down the road from Pt. Reyes and see the cheese made at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>. We have access to the cheese makers. That’s helpful in breaking down the intimidation factor and helps increase our desire to include cheese in our every day lives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We have a lot of farmers’ markets and that’s a great leveling opportunity. It’s a chance to taste cheese from the cheese maker.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What cheeses are good for September -- at home and for picnics?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Werlin:\u003c/strong> Cheese ages at different rates. Sometimes a cheese made in last September is coming ripe in this September. You have a year-old cheese that could be great fun. I like a cheese called \u003ca href=\"http://www.uplandscheese.com/cheese.html\">Pleasant Ridge Reserve\u003c/a> anywhere in the 12-14 month range. Sometimes, you need to be looking back a year. Ask the cheese monger, “What was made last year, what’s good now?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also you’ve had the entire spring and summer where there are cheeses like a fresh chevre. Or try a sheep milk ricotta from \u003ca href=\"http://www.bellwetherfarms.com/\">Bellwether Farms\u003c/a> that is awesome.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or cheese from June and July are coming to perfection. It’s a little bit of looking back and using your cheese monger as help.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If it’s hot, I tend to go for a lighter cheese like \u003ca href=\"http://www.cypressgrovechevre.com/cheeses/ripened-cheeses/humboldt-fog.html\">Humboldt Fog\u003c/a> which is creamy and delicious. Maybe don't go for a bandage wrapped cheddar. During the day that wouldn’t be my go-to cheese. In the end what you want to surround yourself with is a variety of maybe three cheeses from different milks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Specifically for September, go for sheep and goats milk that are less changed. They start drying up later in the fall. If you want something fresh and seasonal, our cows here have opposite seasons. The grasses out in February then dry up in summertime. It’s okay because there’s still grass. Cows milk cheese made in February or March may be particularly delicious from California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have any foods that are a guilty pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Werlin:\u003c/strong> It’s not really a guilty pleasure but I’m totally in love with beef jerky. I can’t tell you why. There’s the texture and the flavor and it’s often like ingesting leather.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m a big peanut butter fan and will eat a \u003ca href=\"http://www.hersheys.com/reeses/products.aspx#/REESE'S-Peanut-Butter-Cups\">Reese’s\u003c/a> anytime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve never met a potato chip I don't like. I’m more of a salty girl than a sweet one, although I try to be sweet!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/food-news/55147/how-to-make-grilled-cheese-with-laura-werlin/\">\u003cstrong>How to Make Grilled Cheese with Laura Werlin\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> (CHOW)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cobject width=\"480\" height=\"270\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://canstatic.cbs.com/chrome/canplayer.swf?pid=BL1Igbf5Fw6g&partner=chow&gen=1\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"allowScriptAccess\" value=\"always\">\u003cembed width=\"480\" height=\"270\" src=\"http://canstatic.cbs.com/chrome/canplayer.swf?pid=BL1Igbf5Fw6g&partner=chow&gen=1\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/47986/cheese-expert-laura-werlin-talks-about-seasonality-books-and-travel","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_64","bayareabites_2407","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1927"],"tags":["bayareabites_14750","bayareabites_10690","bayareabites_404","bayareabites_10692","bayareabites_130","bayareabites_9257","bayareabites_10620","bayareabites_10691"],"featImg":"bayareabites_48117","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_40053":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_40053","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"40053","score":null,"sort":[1331391659000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"cottage-cheese-pancakes-for-spring","title":"Cottage Cheese Pancakes for Spring","publishDate":1331391659,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/pancakes560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/pancakes560.jpg\" alt=\"cottage cheese pancakes\" title=\"cottage cheese pancakes\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40074\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Time for eggs! The sunshine hours are lengthening in anticipation of the upcoming vernal equinox, in which the hours of light and the hours of darkness will be poised in balance before the sun starts its crawl upwards to midsummer's apex. Longer hours of daylight flip a switch in the instinctual brains of our feathered friends, chickens both urban and rural among them, and the stingy-to-nonexistent egg-laying of the winter months suddenly turns into a bountiful flood of fresh, beautiful eggs for spring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week, the chickens of \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinsunfarms.com\">Marin Sun Farms'\u003c/a> home ranch in Inverness were chattering and clucking like a posse of glamour gals from \u003ca href=\"http://gossipgirl-blog.cwtv.com/\">Gossip Girl\u003c/a>, crisscrossed by a handful of strutting roosters. Eve Love, who runs the kitchen at the company's butcher shop and cafe in Point Reyes Station, gave me a springtime gift of a half-dozen jumbo eggs in every color from palest buff to aqua-green. Every egg was double-yolked, a good-luck charm from their happy hens. Love is also starting her own flock of quail, with three hens in a pen, and along with the jumbo eggs she gave me three dainty speckled quail eggs. Seen side by side, they looked like that Annie Leibovitz picture of \u003ca href=\"http://marshallmatlock.com/wp-content/gallery/annie-leibovitz-at-work-again/willie%20shoemaker%20and%20wilt%20chamberlain,%20malibu,%20ca,%201987.%20by%20annie%20leibovitz.png\"> basketball star Wilt Chamberlain and jockey Willie Shoemaker.\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dainty and speckled, quail eggs, which can be found in specialty grocery stores as well in Asian markets, invariably put me in mind of the centerpiece of plovers' eggs decorating Sebastian's rooms in Evelyn Waugh's novel \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0316926345/kqedorg-20\">Brideshead Revisited.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>Sebastian lived at Christ Church, high in Meadow Buildings. He was alone when I came in, peeling a plover's egg taken from the large nest of moss in the centre of the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>'I've just counted them,\" he said. 'There were five each and two over, so I'm having the two. I'm unaccountably hungry to-day.' \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The party assembled. Each as he came in made first for the plover's eggs, then noticed Sebastian and then myself with a polite lack of curiosity which seemed to say: \u003cem>We should not dream of being so offensive as to suggest that you never met us before.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>'The first this year!\" they said. 'Where did you get them?' \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>'Mummy sends them from Brideshead. They always lay early for her.' \"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/quailegg560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/quailegg560.jpg\" alt=\"quail eggs. Photo: Stephane von Stephane\" title=\"quail eggs. Photo: Stephane von Stephane\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40075\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Quail eggs, front egg peeled and topped with paprika. Photo: Stephane von Stephane\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've never seen a plover's egg, but I imagine them something like these, a little shy and wild, a woodland morsel out of a fairytale. Or, like a quail's egg, something very chic, displayed on a square black plate, ready for peeling, with matching saucers of sea salt and smoked paprika for dipping. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's easy to hard-boil quails' eggs. Put them in a pot and cover with at least an inch of water. Bring to a boil, then cover, turn off the heat, and let sit for five minutes. Drop the eggs into an ice-water bath to stop the cooking. (This helps prevent that unsightly gray ring from forming around the yolk). Once cooled, chill, then let your guests peel their own, sprinkling each bite with salt and smoked paprika. (This is a nice chance to show off whatever expensive crunchy salts you were gifted over the holidays, by the way.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What else can you do with this month's bounty of eggs? There are \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/04/04/eggs-for-easter/\">souffles\u003c/a>, of course, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/w/morefastfoodmyway/episode208.html\">Jacques Pepin's Asparagus Fans \u003c/a> with hard-boiled eggs and mustard vinaigrette. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you've made your fill of scrambles and frittatas, over-easy's and sunny-sides-up, you can try a batch of these lovely, tender pancakes, made with cottage cheese, lots of eggs, and just a hint of lemon. Similar to lemon ricotta pancakes, these were a family specialty when I was growing up, served interchangeably for breakfast and Sunday-night supper, usually rolled around a dollop of sour cream and a spoonful of warmed Bing cherries. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After calling my mom for the recipe (which she found, scrawled in my teenage handwriting, on the flyleaf of one of her cookbooks), I made them again, for the first time in decades. They were exactly as I'd remembered: moist, tender, delicate and mess-free, with a taste somewhere between a crepe and a blintz. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All you need is a blender (or a bowl and a whisk) and a frying pan. Happy spring!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cottage Cheese Pancakes\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Measure your ingredients right into the blender, then buzz and go! The pancakes can be served with maple syrup, powdered sugar, or lemon glaze. If you want to keep your pancakes local, use \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/cheeses.asp\">Cowgirl Creamery's excellent, Marin-made cottage cheese\u003c/a>, made from organic Straus Family Creamery milk. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 5 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 5 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total time:\u003c/strong>10 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 10 pancakes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 cup small-curd cottage cheese\u003cbr>\n6 eggs\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup sifted all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup milk\u003cbr>\ngrated rind of 1 Meyer lemon (optional)\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup vegetable oil, such as grapeseed or canola\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp salt\u003cbr>\nButter, for greasing pan\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lemon Glaze:\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp butter\u003cbr>\njuice of 1 large Meyer lemon\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp sugar, or to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Serving:\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup sour cream\u003cbr>\n1 cup pitted cherries, liquid reserved if canned\u003cbr>\nPowdered sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Combine all pancake ingredients in a blender. Blend at high speed for 1 minute, stopping to scrape down sides once. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Cook on a hot, lightly greased griddle or frying pan, using a 1/4 cup of batter for each pancake. Bake for approximately 2 minutes per side, until well golden browned. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. While pancakes are cooking, make glaze. In a small saucepan, melt butter with lemon juice and sugar, cooking over low heat until butter is melted and mixture is slightly syrupy. If using cherries, warm in their liquid until plump and heated through. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Serve pancakes immediately, drizzled with glaze. If desired, fill each pancake with a dollop of sour cream and a spoonful of cherries. Roll pancake up around filling. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and/or drizzle with glaze. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"It's spring, and the chickens are laying again! Time to start (or end) the day with tender, eggy Cottage Cheese Pancakes. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1550267776,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":27,"wordCount":1027},"headData":{"title":"Cottage Cheese Pancakes for Spring | KQED","description":"It's spring, and the chickens are laying again! Time to start (or end) the day with tender, eggy Cottage Cheese Pancakes. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Cottage Cheese Pancakes for Spring","datePublished":"2012-03-10T15:00:59.000Z","dateModified":"2019-02-15T21:56:16.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"40053 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=40053","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/03/10/cottage-cheese-pancakes-for-spring/","disqusTitle":"Cottage Cheese Pancakes for Spring","path":"/bayareabites/40053/cottage-cheese-pancakes-for-spring","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/pancakes560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/pancakes560.jpg\" alt=\"cottage cheese pancakes\" title=\"cottage cheese pancakes\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40074\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Time for eggs! The sunshine hours are lengthening in anticipation of the upcoming vernal equinox, in which the hours of light and the hours of darkness will be poised in balance before the sun starts its crawl upwards to midsummer's apex. Longer hours of daylight flip a switch in the instinctual brains of our feathered friends, chickens both urban and rural among them, and the stingy-to-nonexistent egg-laying of the winter months suddenly turns into a bountiful flood of fresh, beautiful eggs for spring. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week, the chickens of \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinsunfarms.com\">Marin Sun Farms'\u003c/a> home ranch in Inverness were chattering and clucking like a posse of glamour gals from \u003ca href=\"http://gossipgirl-blog.cwtv.com/\">Gossip Girl\u003c/a>, crisscrossed by a handful of strutting roosters. Eve Love, who runs the kitchen at the company's butcher shop and cafe in Point Reyes Station, gave me a springtime gift of a half-dozen jumbo eggs in every color from palest buff to aqua-green. Every egg was double-yolked, a good-luck charm from their happy hens. Love is also starting her own flock of quail, with three hens in a pen, and along with the jumbo eggs she gave me three dainty speckled quail eggs. Seen side by side, they looked like that Annie Leibovitz picture of \u003ca href=\"http://marshallmatlock.com/wp-content/gallery/annie-leibovitz-at-work-again/willie%20shoemaker%20and%20wilt%20chamberlain,%20malibu,%20ca,%201987.%20by%20annie%20leibovitz.png\"> basketball star Wilt Chamberlain and jockey Willie Shoemaker.\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dainty and speckled, quail eggs, which can be found in specialty grocery stores as well in Asian markets, invariably put me in mind of the centerpiece of plovers' eggs decorating Sebastian's rooms in Evelyn Waugh's novel \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0316926345/kqedorg-20\">Brideshead Revisited.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>Sebastian lived at Christ Church, high in Meadow Buildings. He was alone when I came in, peeling a plover's egg taken from the large nest of moss in the centre of the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>'I've just counted them,\" he said. 'There were five each and two over, so I'm having the two. I'm unaccountably hungry to-day.' \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The party assembled. Each as he came in made first for the plover's eggs, then noticed Sebastian and then myself with a polite lack of curiosity which seemed to say: \u003cem>We should not dream of being so offensive as to suggest that you never met us before.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>'The first this year!\" they said. 'Where did you get them?' \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>'Mummy sends them from Brideshead. They always lay early for her.' \"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/quailegg560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/03/quailegg560.jpg\" alt=\"quail eggs. Photo: Stephane von Stephane\" title=\"quail eggs. Photo: Stephane von Stephane\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-40075\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Quail eggs, front egg peeled and topped with paprika. Photo: Stephane von Stephane\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've never seen a plover's egg, but I imagine them something like these, a little shy and wild, a woodland morsel out of a fairytale. Or, like a quail's egg, something very chic, displayed on a square black plate, ready for peeling, with matching saucers of sea salt and smoked paprika for dipping. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's easy to hard-boil quails' eggs. Put them in a pot and cover with at least an inch of water. Bring to a boil, then cover, turn off the heat, and let sit for five minutes. Drop the eggs into an ice-water bath to stop the cooking. (This helps prevent that unsightly gray ring from forming around the yolk). Once cooled, chill, then let your guests peel their own, sprinkling each bite with salt and smoked paprika. (This is a nice chance to show off whatever expensive crunchy salts you were gifted over the holidays, by the way.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What else can you do with this month's bounty of eggs? There are \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/04/04/eggs-for-easter/\">souffles\u003c/a>, of course, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/w/morefastfoodmyway/episode208.html\">Jacques Pepin's Asparagus Fans \u003c/a> with hard-boiled eggs and mustard vinaigrette. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you've made your fill of scrambles and frittatas, over-easy's and sunny-sides-up, you can try a batch of these lovely, tender pancakes, made with cottage cheese, lots of eggs, and just a hint of lemon. Similar to lemon ricotta pancakes, these were a family specialty when I was growing up, served interchangeably for breakfast and Sunday-night supper, usually rolled around a dollop of sour cream and a spoonful of warmed Bing cherries. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After calling my mom for the recipe (which she found, scrawled in my teenage handwriting, on the flyleaf of one of her cookbooks), I made them again, for the first time in decades. They were exactly as I'd remembered: moist, tender, delicate and mess-free, with a taste somewhere between a crepe and a blintz. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All you need is a blender (or a bowl and a whisk) and a frying pan. Happy spring!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Cottage Cheese Pancakes\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Measure your ingredients right into the blender, then buzz and go! The pancakes can be served with maple syrup, powdered sugar, or lemon glaze. If you want to keep your pancakes local, use \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/cheeses.asp\">Cowgirl Creamery's excellent, Marin-made cottage cheese\u003c/a>, made from organic Straus Family Creamery milk. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Prep Time:\u003c/strong> 5 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 5 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total time:\u003c/strong>10 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> 10 pancakes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 cup small-curd cottage cheese\u003cbr>\n6 eggs\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup sifted all-purpose flour\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup milk\u003cbr>\ngrated rind of 1 Meyer lemon (optional)\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup vegetable oil, such as grapeseed or canola\u003cbr>\n1/2 tsp vanilla extract\u003cbr>\n1/4 tsp salt\u003cbr>\nButter, for greasing pan\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lemon Glaze:\u003cbr>\n3 tbsp butter\u003cbr>\njuice of 1 large Meyer lemon\u003cbr>\n1 tbsp sugar, or to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Serving:\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup sour cream\u003cbr>\n1 cup pitted cherries, liquid reserved if canned\u003cbr>\nPowdered sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Combine all pancake ingredients in a blender. Blend at high speed for 1 minute, stopping to scrape down sides once. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Cook on a hot, lightly greased griddle or frying pan, using a 1/4 cup of batter for each pancake. Bake for approximately 2 minutes per side, until well golden browned. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. While pancakes are cooking, make glaze. In a small saucepan, melt butter with lemon juice and sugar, cooking over low heat until butter is melted and mixture is slightly syrupy. If using cherries, warm in their liquid until plump and heated through. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Serve pancakes immediately, drizzled with glaze. If desired, fill each pancake with a dollop of sour cream and a spoonful of cherries. Roll pancake up around filling. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and/or drizzle with glaze. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/40053/cottage-cheese-pancakes-for-spring","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_2554","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_1368","bayareabites_10212","bayareabites_404","bayareabites_33","bayareabites_4159","bayareabites_473","bayareabites_9543","bayareabites_1893","bayareabites_8986","bayareabites_3682"],"featImg":"bayareabites_40074","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_39322":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_39322","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"39322","score":null,"sort":[1330375299000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"its-all-about-the-milk-at-cowgirl-creamery","title":"It's all about the milk at Cowgirl Creamery","publishDate":1330375299,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Once upon a time, two childhood friends drove a Volkswagen bus across the country to Berkeley. \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/bios.asp#susan\">Sue Conley\u003c/a> opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.bettesdiner.com/\">Bette's Ocean Diner\u003c/a> in Berkeley and worked at Betty's and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/bios.asp#peggy\">Peggy Smith\u003c/a> cooked at \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a> for 17 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After some decades of culinary success, the two were ready for a new challenge. Their concept was essentially a marketing vehicle for local organic farms like \u003ca href=\"http://www.strausfamilycreamery.com/\">Straus Family Creamery\u003c/a> which was the first organic dairy farm west of the Mississippi. One of them fell in love with the Point Reyes National Park, and the other fell in love with a park ranger. \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/wholesale.asp\">Tomales Bay Foods\u003c/a> was founded in 1993.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Tomales-Bay-Foods_560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Tomales-Bay-Foods_560.jpg\" alt=\"Tomales Bay Foods\" title=\"Tomales Bay Foods\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39332\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tomales Bay Foods\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The vision for Tomales Bay Foods was a place where people could come and buy and eat local products grown and made in West Marin. Sue dreamt of a European-style cheese counter, something that didn't quite exist even in the food-forward Bay Area at that time. Four years later an old hay barn was renovated into the market that we know today, housing the cheesemaking facility, an organic produce stand, a natural-fabric clothing shop, an artisan cheese counter and a deli. Eventually, Sue and Peggy tried their hands at making some \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/cheeses.asp\">simple fresh cheeses\u003c/a>--all of which I was lucky enough to taste on \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/tours.asp\">a tour\u003c/a> with some chef and wine industry friends at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/creme-fraiche560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/creme-fraiche560.jpg\" alt=\"creme fraiche\" title=\"creme fraiche\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39334\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Crème fraîche\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The first tasting was crème fraîche:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nCrème fraîche is made from a simple heavy cream with a little bifidus culture added to make it tangy. The cheese is made exclusively from Straus milk obtained from the original herd, something that is pretty hard to come by these days. The team at Cowgirl lovingly refers to it as their \"estate-bottled milk.\" What I didn't know about crème fraîche is that the older it gets, the better it is! Although a film may form on the top of the cheese, it can be removed and thrown out, and the crème fraîche underneath is improved by ageing. The budding novice cheesemaker can purchase their own heavy cream, add a little crème fraîche, and use it as a \"mother\" to create their own. At Cowgirl, the crème fraîche is the building block for all of their other fresh cheeses. I'd never thought of cheese as a \"live food before,\" but it's true: the lacto bifidus in many cheeses creates an ever-changing product that only improves with some age.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/fromage-blanc5602.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/fromage-blanc5602.jpg\" alt=\"Fromage Blanc\" title=\"Fromage Blanc\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39341\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Fromage Blanc\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Next on the tasting menu was fromage blanc:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe second-to-simplest cheese made at Cowgirl, fromage blanc is made by heating milk, adding the culture (lactus bifidus) to create acids and coagulate the milk, and hanging the resulting cheesecloth overnight to drain out the whey. The resulting cream cheese is a crisp, clear, clean cream cheese without any cloying xanthan gum. It tastes absolutely unlike anything I've ever had on a bagel and I know I'll never be able to eat \u003ca href=\"http://www.kraftbrands.com/philly/Pages/default.aspx\">Philadelphia\u003c/a> again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/clabbered-cottage400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/clabbered-cottage400.jpg\" alt=\"Cheesemonger cottage\" title=\"Cheesemonger cottage\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39343\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Manager Michael Zilber discusses clabbered cottage cheese\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Then, it was time to try the clabbered cottage cheese:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis cheese is the first one that Sue ever made, and we hear it's the one she's still most proud of. Traditionally, cottage cheese is made from the nonfat milk that's left over from the day's butter-making. The milk is turned into whey and mixed with fresh cream from the morning's milking, which is why cottage cheese is traditionally a breakfast cheese. This cheese has great acidity and texture, and we're told it can be substituted for ricotta in almost any recipe. This cheese won a blue ribbon from the American Cheese Society in 2005, making it ostensibly the best cottage cheese in the USA. \"What it comes down to is highlighting the high-quality milk,\" says our guide, cheesemonger/manager Michael Zilber, modestly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>AGED CHEESES\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAfter a year of making fresh cheeses, Sue decides to try her hand at making some aged cheeses. At the time, a Dutch dairy scientist was interning at Cowgirl. With his input, the creamery as it is today was designed, and Cowgirl made its first soft aged cheese: basically a creamy Gouda. Many tests-and-repeats later, Cowgirl is probably known best for its famous Mount Tam cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mount Tam:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWe learned that cheese ripens from the outside in, which can be noticed in the three different textures of the triangle of Mount Tam we were given to examine, sniff, and taste. The rind, which is made from candida mold that has broken down the milk and made a seal, is white and fluffy. Just inside the rind there's a ribbon of ripe cheese, and inside of that, the center of the cheese is a firm, bright white. \"To really dork out on soft cheeses,\" says our guide, \"first taste the center, and taste the ripe part of the cheese second. For the third nibble, taste the two parts together.\" All three bites had their own distinct flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/mount-tam5602.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/mount-tam5602.jpg\" alt=\"Mount Tam\" title=\"Mount Tam\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39351\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Three stages of ripeness in one slice of Mount Tam\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, says Zilber, \"anyone who says they are lactose-intolerant should be able to eat aged, soft cheeses.\" Why? \"The cultures added to the cheese eat all of the lactose after a few days of aging and turn it into lactic acid.\" Hence, the slightly acidic, citrusy tang we taste in a newer cheese. The mold feeds on that acid, sweetening the cheese. \"So a cheese's rind not only seals but sweetens the cheese.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Red Hawk:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe next cheese we tasted was the Red Hawk, which is made similarly to the Mount Tam. After two weeks of aging, the fluffy candida mold is scrubbed off of the cheese and it's washed with salt water. (Some cheesemakers will wash the rinds with beer or wine at this stage of cheesemaking.) The saline prevents more white fluffy mold from growing and then nature takes over. \u003ca href=\"http://www.cheesemaking.com/store/p/134-Bacteria-Linens-Red-1-pack.html\">B. Linens\u003c/a> mold from the air grows on the cheeses giving them their nuttiness and a slight funk. B. Linens mold is a naturally-occurring mold in the air--it's what makes stinky cheeses like Limberger stinky. Red Hawk represents the terroir of West Marin--it cannot be made in Petaluma, because the air doesn't have the mold. It is a true American original: the only known washed-rind, triple-cream soft cheese in the world. Pair it with a true Sauternes or a hoppy IPA.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/red-hawk560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/red-hawk560.jpg\" alt=\"Red Hawk\" title=\"Red Hawk\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39353\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Individual slices of the washed rind, triple-cream Red Hawk\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Devil's Gulch:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis seasonal cheese is soft and aged, with a sweet and spicy pepper rind. Cowgirl's seasonal cheese is the same cheese year-round, with different herbs to finish the rind. The cheese itself is a washed rind, similar to the Red Hawk but the milk is from a Jersey cow farm. There is no cream added to the cheese because the fat content in Jersey cow milk is higher than that of Holstein cows, which is where the \"estate-bottled\" Straus milk comes from. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/devils-gulch560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/devils-gulch560.jpg\" alt=\"Devils Gulch\" title=\"Devils Gulch\" width=\"560\" height=\"474\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39355\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Homegrown dried pepper rind on Devil's Gulch cheese\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Wagon Wheel:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAfter years of making fresh cheeses and soft aged cheeses, Cowgirl's cheesemakers wanted an \"everyday cheese that they could cook with,\" says Zilber. Wagon Wheel is their first hard-aged cheese. The process is the same as with an asiago, says Zilber. He's right that Wagon Wheel is a great melting cheese: we bought out Tomales Bay Foods' stock of \u003ca href=\"http://www.barbeclette.com/\">Barbaclette\u003c/a> and spent the rest of the afternoon melting it over the barbecues at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.hogislandoysters.com/farm/location\">Hog Island Oyster Company\u003c/a> for lunch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/wagon-wheel560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/wagon-wheel560.jpg\" alt=\"Wagon Wheel\" title=\"Wagon Wheel\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39357\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cowgirl's first hard cheese awaits a melting\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/barbaclette560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/barbaclette560.jpg\" alt=\"Barbaclette\" title=\"Barbaclette\" width=\"560\" height=\"262\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39359\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cowgirl's Wagon Wheel melts on the grill\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/index.html\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nCowgirl Creamery \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/tours.asp\">Tours\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/CowgirlCreamery?ref=ts&sk=wall\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/cowgirlcreamery\">@cowgirlcreamery\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Cowgirl Creamery, a forerunner of the artisanal foods movement in the Bay Area, has been producing organic cheese in West Marin for 15 years. Here is a recap of a tasting tour, some history of the creamery and information about many of the Cowgirl cheeses.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1330375831,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":1333},"headData":{"title":"It's all about the milk at Cowgirl Creamery | KQED","description":"Cowgirl Creamery, a forerunner of the artisanal foods movement in the Bay Area, has been producing organic cheese in West Marin for 15 years. Here is a recap of a tasting tour, some history of the creamery and information about many of the Cowgirl cheeses.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"It's all about the milk at Cowgirl Creamery","datePublished":"2012-02-27T20:41:39.000Z","dateModified":"2012-02-27T20:50:31.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"39322 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=39322","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/02/27/its-all-about-the-milk-at-cowgirl-creamery/","disqusTitle":"It's all about the milk at Cowgirl Creamery","path":"/bayareabites/39322/its-all-about-the-milk-at-cowgirl-creamery","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Once upon a time, two childhood friends drove a Volkswagen bus across the country to Berkeley. \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/bios.asp#susan\">Sue Conley\u003c/a> opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.bettesdiner.com/\">Bette's Ocean Diner\u003c/a> in Berkeley and worked at Betty's and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/bios.asp#peggy\">Peggy Smith\u003c/a> cooked at \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a> for 17 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After some decades of culinary success, the two were ready for a new challenge. Their concept was essentially a marketing vehicle for local organic farms like \u003ca href=\"http://www.strausfamilycreamery.com/\">Straus Family Creamery\u003c/a> which was the first organic dairy farm west of the Mississippi. One of them fell in love with the Point Reyes National Park, and the other fell in love with a park ranger. \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/wholesale.asp\">Tomales Bay Foods\u003c/a> was founded in 1993.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Tomales-Bay-Foods_560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/Tomales-Bay-Foods_560.jpg\" alt=\"Tomales Bay Foods\" title=\"Tomales Bay Foods\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39332\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Tomales Bay Foods\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The vision for Tomales Bay Foods was a place where people could come and buy and eat local products grown and made in West Marin. Sue dreamt of a European-style cheese counter, something that didn't quite exist even in the food-forward Bay Area at that time. Four years later an old hay barn was renovated into the market that we know today, housing the cheesemaking facility, an organic produce stand, a natural-fabric clothing shop, an artisan cheese counter and a deli. Eventually, Sue and Peggy tried their hands at making some \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/cheeses.asp\">simple fresh cheeses\u003c/a>--all of which I was lucky enough to taste on \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/tours.asp\">a tour\u003c/a> with some chef and wine industry friends at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/creme-fraiche560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/creme-fraiche560.jpg\" alt=\"creme fraiche\" title=\"creme fraiche\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39334\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Crème fraîche\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The first tasting was crème fraîche:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nCrème fraîche is made from a simple heavy cream with a little bifidus culture added to make it tangy. The cheese is made exclusively from Straus milk obtained from the original herd, something that is pretty hard to come by these days. The team at Cowgirl lovingly refers to it as their \"estate-bottled milk.\" What I didn't know about crème fraîche is that the older it gets, the better it is! Although a film may form on the top of the cheese, it can be removed and thrown out, and the crème fraîche underneath is improved by ageing. The budding novice cheesemaker can purchase their own heavy cream, add a little crème fraîche, and use it as a \"mother\" to create their own. At Cowgirl, the crème fraîche is the building block for all of their other fresh cheeses. I'd never thought of cheese as a \"live food before,\" but it's true: the lacto bifidus in many cheeses creates an ever-changing product that only improves with some age.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/fromage-blanc5602.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/fromage-blanc5602.jpg\" alt=\"Fromage Blanc\" title=\"Fromage Blanc\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39341\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Fromage Blanc\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Next on the tasting menu was fromage blanc:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe second-to-simplest cheese made at Cowgirl, fromage blanc is made by heating milk, adding the culture (lactus bifidus) to create acids and coagulate the milk, and hanging the resulting cheesecloth overnight to drain out the whey. The resulting cream cheese is a crisp, clear, clean cream cheese without any cloying xanthan gum. It tastes absolutely unlike anything I've ever had on a bagel and I know I'll never be able to eat \u003ca href=\"http://www.kraftbrands.com/philly/Pages/default.aspx\">Philadelphia\u003c/a> again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/clabbered-cottage400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/clabbered-cottage400.jpg\" alt=\"Cheesemonger cottage\" title=\"Cheesemonger cottage\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39343\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Manager Michael Zilber discusses clabbered cottage cheese\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Then, it was time to try the clabbered cottage cheese:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis cheese is the first one that Sue ever made, and we hear it's the one she's still most proud of. Traditionally, cottage cheese is made from the nonfat milk that's left over from the day's butter-making. The milk is turned into whey and mixed with fresh cream from the morning's milking, which is why cottage cheese is traditionally a breakfast cheese. This cheese has great acidity and texture, and we're told it can be substituted for ricotta in almost any recipe. This cheese won a blue ribbon from the American Cheese Society in 2005, making it ostensibly the best cottage cheese in the USA. \"What it comes down to is highlighting the high-quality milk,\" says our guide, cheesemonger/manager Michael Zilber, modestly. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>AGED CHEESES\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAfter a year of making fresh cheeses, Sue decides to try her hand at making some aged cheeses. At the time, a Dutch dairy scientist was interning at Cowgirl. With his input, the creamery as it is today was designed, and Cowgirl made its first soft aged cheese: basically a creamy Gouda. Many tests-and-repeats later, Cowgirl is probably known best for its famous Mount Tam cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mount Tam:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWe learned that cheese ripens from the outside in, which can be noticed in the three different textures of the triangle of Mount Tam we were given to examine, sniff, and taste. The rind, which is made from candida mold that has broken down the milk and made a seal, is white and fluffy. Just inside the rind there's a ribbon of ripe cheese, and inside of that, the center of the cheese is a firm, bright white. \"To really dork out on soft cheeses,\" says our guide, \"first taste the center, and taste the ripe part of the cheese second. For the third nibble, taste the two parts together.\" All three bites had their own distinct flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/mount-tam5602.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/mount-tam5602.jpg\" alt=\"Mount Tam\" title=\"Mount Tam\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39351\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Three stages of ripeness in one slice of Mount Tam\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, says Zilber, \"anyone who says they are lactose-intolerant should be able to eat aged, soft cheeses.\" Why? \"The cultures added to the cheese eat all of the lactose after a few days of aging and turn it into lactic acid.\" Hence, the slightly acidic, citrusy tang we taste in a newer cheese. The mold feeds on that acid, sweetening the cheese. \"So a cheese's rind not only seals but sweetens the cheese.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Red Hawk:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe next cheese we tasted was the Red Hawk, which is made similarly to the Mount Tam. After two weeks of aging, the fluffy candida mold is scrubbed off of the cheese and it's washed with salt water. (Some cheesemakers will wash the rinds with beer or wine at this stage of cheesemaking.) The saline prevents more white fluffy mold from growing and then nature takes over. \u003ca href=\"http://www.cheesemaking.com/store/p/134-Bacteria-Linens-Red-1-pack.html\">B. Linens\u003c/a> mold from the air grows on the cheeses giving them their nuttiness and a slight funk. B. Linens mold is a naturally-occurring mold in the air--it's what makes stinky cheeses like Limberger stinky. Red Hawk represents the terroir of West Marin--it cannot be made in Petaluma, because the air doesn't have the mold. It is a true American original: the only known washed-rind, triple-cream soft cheese in the world. Pair it with a true Sauternes or a hoppy IPA.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/red-hawk560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/red-hawk560.jpg\" alt=\"Red Hawk\" title=\"Red Hawk\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39353\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Individual slices of the washed rind, triple-cream Red Hawk\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Devil's Gulch:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis seasonal cheese is soft and aged, with a sweet and spicy pepper rind. Cowgirl's seasonal cheese is the same cheese year-round, with different herbs to finish the rind. The cheese itself is a washed rind, similar to the Red Hawk but the milk is from a Jersey cow farm. There is no cream added to the cheese because the fat content in Jersey cow milk is higher than that of Holstein cows, which is where the \"estate-bottled\" Straus milk comes from. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/devils-gulch560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/devils-gulch560.jpg\" alt=\"Devils Gulch\" title=\"Devils Gulch\" width=\"560\" height=\"474\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39355\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Homegrown dried pepper rind on Devil's Gulch cheese\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Wagon Wheel:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAfter years of making fresh cheeses and soft aged cheeses, Cowgirl's cheesemakers wanted an \"everyday cheese that they could cook with,\" says Zilber. Wagon Wheel is their first hard-aged cheese. The process is the same as with an asiago, says Zilber. He's right that Wagon Wheel is a great melting cheese: we bought out Tomales Bay Foods' stock of \u003ca href=\"http://www.barbeclette.com/\">Barbaclette\u003c/a> and spent the rest of the afternoon melting it over the barbecues at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.hogislandoysters.com/farm/location\">Hog Island Oyster Company\u003c/a> for lunch. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/wagon-wheel560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/wagon-wheel560.jpg\" alt=\"Wagon Wheel\" title=\"Wagon Wheel\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39357\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cowgirl's first hard cheese awaits a melting\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/barbaclette560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/02/barbaclette560.jpg\" alt=\"Barbaclette\" title=\"Barbaclette\" width=\"560\" height=\"262\" class=\"size-full wp-image-39359\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cowgirl's Wagon Wheel melts on the grill\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/index.html\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nCowgirl Creamery \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/tours.asp\">Tours\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/CowgirlCreamery?ref=ts&sk=wall\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/cowgirlcreamery\">@cowgirlcreamery\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/39322/its-all-about-the-milk-at-cowgirl-creamery","authors":["5325"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_64","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_10174","bayareabites_14750","bayareabites_583","bayareabites_404","bayareabites_10172","bayareabites_10173"],"featImg":"bayareabites_39343","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_31847":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_31847","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"31847","score":null,"sort":[1314381547000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"marin-day-trip-larkspur-point-reyes-station-sausalito","title":"Marin Day Trip: Larkspur, Point Reyes Station, Sausalito","publishDate":1314381547,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Hello, sunshine! Foggy August is winding down, with sunnier September right around the corner, just in time for the kids to be back in school and the doldrums of summer’s cut-out-early-Fridays to slip away. So grab these last couple of weekends before Labor Day, sling your sandals and beach towels in the back of the car, and get out of the city in search of sunnier climes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From Oakland or San Francisco, my vacation compass always points north. Yes, the delights of Pacifica, Pescadero, Santa Cruz, Monterey, San Luis Obispo on down to Los Angeles are many, and I’d happily return for a second slice of olallieberry pie at Duarte’s, or another view of the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s undulating kelp forest and huge, prehistoric-looking sunfish. But what always lures me to the back roads is the sea-tinged scent of eucalyptus and coastal scrub, and the small farms, quirky towns, and rolling sheep-dotted hills of West Marin. So, 101 North, what have you to offer for the casual daytripper?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/donut-alley.560jpg.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/donut-alley.560jpg.jpg\" alt=\"Donut Alley sign\" title=\"Donut Alley sign\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32302\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For starters, get out of town early, before the bridges and highway are clogged with the rest of the vacationing hordes. A promise of really excellent doughnuts and a superior cappuccino is usually enough to rouse even the most sluggish of un-morning people. A decade or so ago, I was working on a round-up of doughnut shops in the Bay Area for a local magazine. Not a single chocolate-glazed was worth getting up for until my friend Liz, born and bred in Marin, turned me on to her favorite high school hangout, \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/donutalley\">Donut Alley\u003c/a> in Larkspur. (The exit was Paradise Drive, easy to remember, for what is paradise but a morning that starts with a perfect doughnut?) I went there and fell in love. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The same guy had been running the place for years. They opened at 6:30am and closed when they ran out of doughnuts, usually before noon. There were no maple-bacon or vegan plum-cardamom doughnuts, just good old old-fashioned old fashioneds, your buttermilk bars and apple fritters and cute, tender, just-sweet-enough cake doughnuts, chocolate-iced, cinnamon-sugared, or pink-sprinkled. Parents came in with their kids for a bag to go; old guys sat around a few Formica tables scattered with copies of the Marin I-J and drank paper cups of coffee from the help-yourself Bun-o-matic machine. And while a recent visit revealed the place to be a little spiffed up (the coffee is organic now, the tables dark wood, and a new blueberry doughnut, made with dried berries, is selling fast), the spirit and doughnuts are exactly the same. Polite kids still point and ask, “Can my little brother have that chocolate one, please?” while their baby sisters squeal for sprinkles and chocolate milk. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/emporio-rulli-larkspur560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/emporio-rulli-larkspur560.jpg\" alt=\"Emporio Rulli in Larkspur\" title=\"Emporio Rulli in Larkspur\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32303\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while the drip coffee on offer is perfectly fine, you Sightglass-spoiled city folk probably need a more potent eye-opener. Head across the street to the marble counters of \u003ca href=\"http://www.rulli.com/\">Emporio Rulli\u003c/a> and order your Rome-worthy latte or cappuccino. Sip it at one of the sidewalk tables, or take it to go and stroll over to Dolliver Park, at the corner of Magnolia Ave and Madrone St. Sit under a redwood tree and breathe the green forest smells while you lick the sugar off your fingers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Double back to 101, but not for long. It’s time to get onto the meandering Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. It winds, stop and start, through the posh Marin towns, San Anselmo, Greenbrae, Ross, and Fairfax. Soon, though, the countryside opens up and the road slides under towering redwood trees and bark-shredded eucalyptus, swinging past the forested campgrounds of Samuel P. Taylor State Park, through the one-block town of Olema, epicenter of the 1906 earthquake, and into the (by comparison) bustling little town of Point Reyes Station. During the week in wintertime, Point Reyes Station is a very mellow place. On a sunny summer weekend, however, it’s up and lively, thronged with bicyclists and birders. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Saturday morning \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinorganic.org/p_reyes.php\">Point Reyes Farmers' Market\u003c/a>, in front of Toby’s Feed Barn and next to the town’s sweet community garden plots, has just a few farmers—\u003ca href=\"http://www.marinorganic.org/producers/producers_paradise.html\">Paradise Valley Produce\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinorganic.org/producers/producers_fresh_run.html\">Fresh Run Farm\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinorganic.org/producers/producers_wild.html\">Wild Blue Farm\u003c/a>—but they’re well stocked and doing a bang-up business in lettuce and kale, cukes and squash, bundles of herbs, freshly dug onions and potatoes, bright carrots and brighter bouquets. A glance through a wooden crate of new-crop Gravenstein apples from Paradise Valley reveals a couple of ringers: none other than the elusive, rarely seen Pink Pearls, a tart early apple whose cream-colored skin masks its fantastic, hot-pink flesh. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/pink-pearl-apple560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/pink-pearl-apple560.jpg\" alt=\"Pink Pearl Apple\" title=\"Pink Pearl Apple\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32299\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stop by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/brick-maiden-breads-point-reyes-station\">Brickmaiden\u003c/a> stall to pick up one of Celine Underwood's tangy sourdough loaves, baked in a wood-fired oven in a little unmarked cottage just across the street. It’s the same cottage where Chad Robertson and Elisabeth Pruiett of \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com/chefs.html\">Tartine\u003c/a> got their start in 1994, baking bread and pastries for small stores and farmers markets in the area under the name Bay Village Bread. Next to the bread stall is \u003ca href=\"http://www.wildwestferments.com\">Wild West Ferments\u003c/a>, offering handmade sauerkraut along with canning jars full of wonderfully fruity, lacto-fermented “sodas” in flavors like nectarine-vanilla and plum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/GBD-grilled-cheese560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/GBD-grilled-cheese560.jpg\" alt=\"GBD Point Reyes Grilled Cheese \" title=\"GBD Point Reyes Grilled Cheese \" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32305\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://osteriastellina.com/\">Osteria Stellina's\u003c/a> GBD Grilled Cheese serves up three kinds of grilled cheese: a basic one with Valley Ford Estero Gold cheese on Stellina's own crusty bread; sharp cheddar with a griddled egg; and “The Bill from Bo,” Bill Niman’s slow-roasted brisket with Estero Gold. \u003ca href=\"http://www.themarshallstore.com/\">The Marshall Store\u003c/a>, from across Tomales Bay, is serving up oysters to go, on the half shell or barbecued. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/marshall-oysters560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/marshall-oysters560.jpg\" alt=\"Marshall Oysters\" title=\"Marshall Oysters\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32306\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not in the mood for oysters or cheese? Well, there’s always what might just be the best burger in West Marin, served right on the way out of town at \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/08/01/marin-sun-farms-tour/\">Marin Sun Farms\u003c/a>’ butcher shop and café. (Their beef jerky is perfect trail food, too.) Otherwise, fill out your picnic menu at Tomales Bay Foods, home of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>, and take your pick of perfect picnic spots. Families with children can head to the placid shoreline of Hearts Desire beach along \u003ca href=\"http://www.parks.ca.gov/default.asp?page_id=470\">Tomales Bay\u003c/a> near Inverness. Too full of sunbathers and kayakers? Take the short, shady hike through the mossy, Hobbit-y trees to nearby Shell Beach, generally a little less populated. Or go exploring among the numerous ocean beaches, lagoons, and estuaries of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nps.gov/pore/index.htm\">Point Reyes National Seashore\u003c/a> itself. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/calamari-pizza560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/calamari-pizza560.jpg\" alt=\"Bar Bocce Calamari Pizza\" title=\"Bar Bocce Calamari Pizza\" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32301\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the way home, sand in your shoes, cell phones ignored, you can keep the beachy feeling going by snagging an outdoor table overlooking the marina at Sausalito’s \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/05/09/southern-marin-welcomes-bar-bocce-with-open-arms/\">Bar Bocce\u003c/a>, ordering a pitcher of beer or a glass of white sangria while you wait for your crisp-crusted calamari pizza to arrive, dribbled with lemon oil, flecked with chiles. The best seat in the house isn’t actually in the restaurant; it’s the bench down on the beach, shaded by a big umbrella, where you can dig your toes into the sand and toast your very, very good fortune at having all this bounty in your backyard. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com/food-wine/kitchen-assistant/margo-true-sunset-cookbook-author-00418000068883/\">Margo True\u003c/a>, the food editor for \u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com\">Sunset\u003c/a>, will be demonstrating recipes from the magazine's latest cookbook,\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/158008527X/kqedorg-20\">The One-Block Feast\u003c/a>, at the Point Reyes Farmers' Market at 10am on Saturday, August 27. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Time for a last summer fling. Head north to find the doughnut shop of your dreams, a small-town farmers' market with grilled cheese and barbecued oysters, and the best bench-and-pizza combo by the Bay. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1314720252,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":1261},"headData":{"title":"Marin Day Trip: Larkspur, Point Reyes Station, Sausalito | KQED","description":"Time for a last summer fling. Head north to find the doughnut shop of your dreams, a small-town farmers' market with grilled cheese and barbecued oysters, and the best bench-and-pizza combo by the Bay. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Marin Day Trip: Larkspur, Point Reyes Station, Sausalito","datePublished":"2011-08-26T17:59:07.000Z","dateModified":"2011-08-30T16:04:12.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"31847 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=31847","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/08/26/marin-day-trip-larkspur-point-reyes-station-sausalito/","disqusTitle":"Marin Day Trip: Larkspur, Point Reyes Station, Sausalito","path":"/bayareabites/31847/marin-day-trip-larkspur-point-reyes-station-sausalito","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Hello, sunshine! Foggy August is winding down, with sunnier September right around the corner, just in time for the kids to be back in school and the doldrums of summer’s cut-out-early-Fridays to slip away. So grab these last couple of weekends before Labor Day, sling your sandals and beach towels in the back of the car, and get out of the city in search of sunnier climes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From Oakland or San Francisco, my vacation compass always points north. Yes, the delights of Pacifica, Pescadero, Santa Cruz, Monterey, San Luis Obispo on down to Los Angeles are many, and I’d happily return for a second slice of olallieberry pie at Duarte’s, or another view of the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s undulating kelp forest and huge, prehistoric-looking sunfish. But what always lures me to the back roads is the sea-tinged scent of eucalyptus and coastal scrub, and the small farms, quirky towns, and rolling sheep-dotted hills of West Marin. So, 101 North, what have you to offer for the casual daytripper?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/donut-alley.560jpg.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/donut-alley.560jpg.jpg\" alt=\"Donut Alley sign\" title=\"Donut Alley sign\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32302\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For starters, get out of town early, before the bridges and highway are clogged with the rest of the vacationing hordes. A promise of really excellent doughnuts and a superior cappuccino is usually enough to rouse even the most sluggish of un-morning people. A decade or so ago, I was working on a round-up of doughnut shops in the Bay Area for a local magazine. Not a single chocolate-glazed was worth getting up for until my friend Liz, born and bred in Marin, turned me on to her favorite high school hangout, \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/donutalley\">Donut Alley\u003c/a> in Larkspur. (The exit was Paradise Drive, easy to remember, for what is paradise but a morning that starts with a perfect doughnut?) I went there and fell in love. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The same guy had been running the place for years. They opened at 6:30am and closed when they ran out of doughnuts, usually before noon. There were no maple-bacon or vegan plum-cardamom doughnuts, just good old old-fashioned old fashioneds, your buttermilk bars and apple fritters and cute, tender, just-sweet-enough cake doughnuts, chocolate-iced, cinnamon-sugared, or pink-sprinkled. Parents came in with their kids for a bag to go; old guys sat around a few Formica tables scattered with copies of the Marin I-J and drank paper cups of coffee from the help-yourself Bun-o-matic machine. And while a recent visit revealed the place to be a little spiffed up (the coffee is organic now, the tables dark wood, and a new blueberry doughnut, made with dried berries, is selling fast), the spirit and doughnuts are exactly the same. Polite kids still point and ask, “Can my little brother have that chocolate one, please?” while their baby sisters squeal for sprinkles and chocolate milk. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/emporio-rulli-larkspur560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/emporio-rulli-larkspur560.jpg\" alt=\"Emporio Rulli in Larkspur\" title=\"Emporio Rulli in Larkspur\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32303\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while the drip coffee on offer is perfectly fine, you Sightglass-spoiled city folk probably need a more potent eye-opener. Head across the street to the marble counters of \u003ca href=\"http://www.rulli.com/\">Emporio Rulli\u003c/a> and order your Rome-worthy latte or cappuccino. Sip it at one of the sidewalk tables, or take it to go and stroll over to Dolliver Park, at the corner of Magnolia Ave and Madrone St. Sit under a redwood tree and breathe the green forest smells while you lick the sugar off your fingers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Double back to 101, but not for long. It’s time to get onto the meandering Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. It winds, stop and start, through the posh Marin towns, San Anselmo, Greenbrae, Ross, and Fairfax. Soon, though, the countryside opens up and the road slides under towering redwood trees and bark-shredded eucalyptus, swinging past the forested campgrounds of Samuel P. Taylor State Park, through the one-block town of Olema, epicenter of the 1906 earthquake, and into the (by comparison) bustling little town of Point Reyes Station. During the week in wintertime, Point Reyes Station is a very mellow place. On a sunny summer weekend, however, it’s up and lively, thronged with bicyclists and birders. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Saturday morning \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinorganic.org/p_reyes.php\">Point Reyes Farmers' Market\u003c/a>, in front of Toby’s Feed Barn and next to the town’s sweet community garden plots, has just a few farmers—\u003ca href=\"http://www.marinorganic.org/producers/producers_paradise.html\">Paradise Valley Produce\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinorganic.org/producers/producers_fresh_run.html\">Fresh Run Farm\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinorganic.org/producers/producers_wild.html\">Wild Blue Farm\u003c/a>—but they’re well stocked and doing a bang-up business in lettuce and kale, cukes and squash, bundles of herbs, freshly dug onions and potatoes, bright carrots and brighter bouquets. A glance through a wooden crate of new-crop Gravenstein apples from Paradise Valley reveals a couple of ringers: none other than the elusive, rarely seen Pink Pearls, a tart early apple whose cream-colored skin masks its fantastic, hot-pink flesh. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/pink-pearl-apple560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/pink-pearl-apple560.jpg\" alt=\"Pink Pearl Apple\" title=\"Pink Pearl Apple\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32299\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stop by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/brick-maiden-breads-point-reyes-station\">Brickmaiden\u003c/a> stall to pick up one of Celine Underwood's tangy sourdough loaves, baked in a wood-fired oven in a little unmarked cottage just across the street. It’s the same cottage where Chad Robertson and Elisabeth Pruiett of \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com/chefs.html\">Tartine\u003c/a> got their start in 1994, baking bread and pastries for small stores and farmers markets in the area under the name Bay Village Bread. Next to the bread stall is \u003ca href=\"http://www.wildwestferments.com\">Wild West Ferments\u003c/a>, offering handmade sauerkraut along with canning jars full of wonderfully fruity, lacto-fermented “sodas” in flavors like nectarine-vanilla and plum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/GBD-grilled-cheese560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/GBD-grilled-cheese560.jpg\" alt=\"GBD Point Reyes Grilled Cheese \" title=\"GBD Point Reyes Grilled Cheese \" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32305\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://osteriastellina.com/\">Osteria Stellina's\u003c/a> GBD Grilled Cheese serves up three kinds of grilled cheese: a basic one with Valley Ford Estero Gold cheese on Stellina's own crusty bread; sharp cheddar with a griddled egg; and “The Bill from Bo,” Bill Niman’s slow-roasted brisket with Estero Gold. \u003ca href=\"http://www.themarshallstore.com/\">The Marshall Store\u003c/a>, from across Tomales Bay, is serving up oysters to go, on the half shell or barbecued. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/marshall-oysters560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/marshall-oysters560.jpg\" alt=\"Marshall Oysters\" title=\"Marshall Oysters\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32306\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not in the mood for oysters or cheese? Well, there’s always what might just be the best burger in West Marin, served right on the way out of town at \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/08/01/marin-sun-farms-tour/\">Marin Sun Farms\u003c/a>’ butcher shop and café. (Their beef jerky is perfect trail food, too.) Otherwise, fill out your picnic menu at Tomales Bay Foods, home of \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/\">Cowgirl Creamery\u003c/a>, and take your pick of perfect picnic spots. Families with children can head to the placid shoreline of Hearts Desire beach along \u003ca href=\"http://www.parks.ca.gov/default.asp?page_id=470\">Tomales Bay\u003c/a> near Inverness. Too full of sunbathers and kayakers? Take the short, shady hike through the mossy, Hobbit-y trees to nearby Shell Beach, generally a little less populated. Or go exploring among the numerous ocean beaches, lagoons, and estuaries of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nps.gov/pore/index.htm\">Point Reyes National Seashore\u003c/a> itself. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/calamari-pizza560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/08/calamari-pizza560.jpg\" alt=\"Bar Bocce Calamari Pizza\" title=\"Bar Bocce Calamari Pizza\" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-32301\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the way home, sand in your shoes, cell phones ignored, you can keep the beachy feeling going by snagging an outdoor table overlooking the marina at Sausalito’s \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/05/09/southern-marin-welcomes-bar-bocce-with-open-arms/\">Bar Bocce\u003c/a>, ordering a pitcher of beer or a glass of white sangria while you wait for your crisp-crusted calamari pizza to arrive, dribbled with lemon oil, flecked with chiles. The best seat in the house isn’t actually in the restaurant; it’s the bench down on the beach, shaded by a big umbrella, where you can dig your toes into the sand and toast your very, very good fortune at having all this bounty in your backyard. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com/food-wine/kitchen-assistant/margo-true-sunset-cookbook-author-00418000068883/\">Margo True\u003c/a>, the food editor for \u003ca href=\"http://www.sunset.com\">Sunset\u003c/a>, will be demonstrating recipes from the magazine's latest cookbook,\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/158008527X/kqedorg-20\">The One-Block Feast\u003c/a>, at the Point Reyes Farmers' Market at 10am on Saturday, August 27. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/31847/marin-day-trip-larkspur-point-reyes-station-sausalito","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1874","bayareabites_95","bayareabites_1246","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_9644","bayareabites_404","bayareabites_131","bayareabites_3470","bayareabites_367","bayareabites_279","bayareabites_9643","bayareabites_2736"],"featImg":"bayareabites_32301","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.","airtime":"THU 10pm, FRI 1am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Commonwealth Club of California"},"link":"/radio/program/commonwealth-club","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Commonwealth-Club-of-California-p1060/"}},"considerthis":{"id":"considerthis","title":"Consider This","tagline":"Make sense of the day","info":"Make sense of the day. Every weekday afternoon, Consider This helps you consider the major stories of the day in less than 15 minutes, featuring the reporting and storytelling resources of NPR. Plus, KQED’s Bianca Taylor brings you the local KQED news you need to know.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Consider-This-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"Consider This from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/considerthis","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"7"},"link":"/podcasts/considerthis","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1503226625?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/coronavirusdaily","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM1NS9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbA","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3Z6JdCS2d0eFEpXHKI6WqH"}},"forum":{"id":"forum","title":"Forum","tagline":"The conversation starts here","info":"KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal","officialWebsiteLink":"/forum","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"8"},"link":"/forum","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/kqeds-forum/id73329719","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432307980/forum","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqedfm-kqeds-forum-podcast","rss":"https://feeds.megaphone.fm/KQINC9557381633"}},"freakonomics-radio":{"id":"freakonomics-radio","title":"Freakonomics Radio","info":"Freakonomics Radio is a one-hour award-winning podcast and public-radio project hosted by Stephen Dubner, with co-author Steve Levitt as a regular guest. It is produced in partnership with WNYC.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png","officialWebsiteLink":"http://freakonomics.com/","airtime":"SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"WNYC"},"link":"/radio/program/freakonomics-radio","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/4s8b","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/","rss":"https://feeds.feedburner.com/freakonomicsradio"}},"fresh-air":{"id":"fresh-air","title":"Fresh Air","info":"Hosted by Terry Gross, \u003cem>Fresh Air from WHYY\u003c/em> is the Peabody Award-winning weekday magazine of contemporary arts and issues. One of public radio's most popular programs, Fresh Air features intimate conversations with today's biggest luminaries.","airtime":"MON-FRI 7pm-8pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Fresh-Air-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/fresh-air/","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/fresh-air","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/4s8b","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Fresh-Air-p17/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/381444908/podcast.xml"}},"here-and-now":{"id":"here-and-now","title":"Here & Now","info":"A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. Hosted by Robin Young, Jeremy Hobson and Tonya Mosley.","airtime":"MON-THU 11am-12pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Here-And-Now-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"http://www.wbur.org/hereandnow","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/here-and-now","subsdcribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=426698661","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Here--Now-p211/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510051/podcast.xml"}},"how-i-built-this":{"id":"how-i-built-this","title":"How I Built This with Guy Raz","info":"Guy Raz dives into the stories behind some of the world's best known companies. 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