Holiday Cookbook Gift Guide: How to Match the Perfect Gift to Just the Right Gift-ee
2012 Eat Real Festival: Day 3 Highlights
Chef Profile: Maverick’s Emmanuel Eng
Bay Area Chefs on How to Select Winter Produce, Part 2
Food Secrets of Chef/Restaurateur/Writer Daniel Patterson
Food Secrets of Deanie Hickox
Moving to Los Angeles
Commis is Crackin'
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the Butcher hi-fives Darren King at the conclusion of the 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. 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But how to match the perfect gift to just the right gift-ee? We've paired our favorite food and wine books with those most likely to appreciate them. And remember the great benefit of giving cookbooks: anyone to whom you give one of these great books should feel compelled to cook from it for you at least once. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Fancy Diners Who Actually Use Their Kitchen\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743973/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Manresa: An Edible Reflection\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by David Kinch\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0714865907/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Coi: Stories and Recipes\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Daniel Patterson\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Manresa600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Manresa600.jpg\" alt=\"Manresa: An Edible Reflection by David Kinch\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75178\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps (lucky you!) these are your in-laws or longtime family friends, these well-heeled folks who have actually, gracefully, splattered their copy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579651267/kqedorg-20\">The French Laundry Cookbook\u003c/a> with use. Want to keep getting invited to their wonderful dinner parties? Splurge on a copy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743973/kqedorg-20\">Manresa: An Edible Reflection\u003c/a>, by chef David Kinch. This is a big, show-stopping doorstopper of a book, with 300+ pages lavishly illustrated with gorgeous photos by Eric Wolfinger. The recipes are accompanied by Kinch's thoughts on the hyper-seasonal, hyper-local (the restaurant has its own dedicated micro-farm) cuisine he's been turning out since 2002 at his renowned Los Gatos restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/COI-600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/COI-600.jpg\" alt=\"Coi: Stories and Recipes by Daniel Patterson\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75175\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or are your recipients strictly city people? Instead of sending them down to the peninsula, wrap up the elegant \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0714865907/kqedorg-20\">Coi: Stories and Recipes\u003c/a> by Daniel Patterson. Unlike most chefs, who rely on professional co-authors to shape their stories into evocative (or at least serviceable) prose, Patterson wrote his own text (and recipes), so nothing gets in the way of his strong personality and vision as he delves into the philosophies at work in his North Beach restaurant. The recipes, such as they are, are essays in themselves, densely written in small-font corona type alongside detailed origin stories by Patterson. Each recipe is scaled to precise tasting-menu size, with no corners cut for sous-chef-deprived home cooks; just making the restaurant's cultured butter takes more than a dozen steps and the better part of a week. Still, if your friends or family like a challenge in the kitchen, it doesn't get more sensual-cerebral than this. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Cheese Heads\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452111634/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks600.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery Cooks by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75177\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Something old, something new, something goat, something blue: For those who just can't get enough of that wonderful stuff, the top contender for dairy lovers is, of course, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452111634/kqedorg-20\">Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/a>. Owners Peggy Smith and Sue Conley tell their inspiring story of how a couple of Berkeley chefs (Smith at Chez Panisse, Conley at Bette's Oceanview Diner) ended up as the doyennes of Northern California cheese, making their own award-winning cheeses while spreading the good word about the culinary artisans and dairy farmers of West Marin and beyond. It includes a comprehensive set of recipes, many inspired by the menu at Sidekick, their Ferry Building prepared-foods counter, covering everything from egg creams and frosty flavored milks to cheese plates, cheese pairings and condiments, salads, sandwiches, and all manner of gooey, cheesy delights like crunchy Fricos (\u003cem>recipe below\u003c/em>), Smokey Blue and Bacon Souffle, and Three-Cheese Lasagna with Mushrooms and Spinach. (For more on the book, check out Brie Mazurek's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/11/03/cheese-pioneers-an-interview-with-cowgirl-creamery-about-their-first-book-cowgirl-creamery-cooks/\"> CUESA interview with Sue Conley\u003c/a>.) \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Pinterest-ing Cook\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579654673/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>One Good Dish\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by David Tanis\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/One-Good-Dish600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/One-Good-Dish600.jpg\" alt=\"One Good Dish by David Tanis\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75195\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Your niece is just out of college and IKEA-furnishing her first apartment. She loves to Instagram, she loves to pin, and she wants her food to look just as good as it tastes, but she's still figuring out her way around the kitchen. Any of Ina Gartner's easy, reliable books might feed her and her friends well, but for the hip young things among us, Ina is the mom jeans of cookbook authors. Show her you're still the cool aunt or uncle with \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579654673/kqedorg-20\">One Good Dish\u003c/a> by David Tanis. Here are appealingly simple recipes with plenty of casual style but no fuss, showing there's no need to spend a whole paycheck just to get a shareable dinner on the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Bake Sale Baker\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452113831/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>The Model Bakery Cookbook: 75 Favorite Recipes from the Beloved Napa Valley Bakery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Karen Mitchell and Sarah Mitchell Hansen with Rick Rodgers\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Model-Bakery600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Model-Bakery600.jpg\" alt=\"The Model Bakery Cookbook: 75 Favorite Recipes from the Beloved Napa Valley Bakery by Karen Mitchell and Sarah Mitchell Hansen with Rick Rodgers\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75179\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For longtime fans of Napa's Model Bakery, the recipe for their signature English muffins--so fat! so fluffy!--alone would be worth the price. But this bright, cheery baking book includes recipes for 74 more all-American favorites, starting the day off right with Cranberry-Buttermilk Scones, carroty-coconutty Morning Glory Muffins, cinnamon-sugar Morning Buns, and almond-crunchy Bear Claws, then moving on to Red Velvet Cupcakes, Carmelita Bars, triple-decker Chocolate Mousse Cake, Peach Streusel Pie, and more. (Lots of useful holiday recipes, too, from Festive Sugar Cookies, Gingerbread Cookies, Gingerbread Houses, and a chocolate-and-coffee Buche de Noel.) Prolific cookbook author Rick Rodgers provides easy-to-follow, well-tested translations of the bakery's recipes for home cooks, while mother-daughter owners Karen Mitchell and Sarah Mitchell Hansen describe how they turned this historic bakery into a much-loved destination for locals and visitors alike. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Chocolate Chemist\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579655114/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Seriously Bitter Sweet: The Ultimate Dessert Maker's Guide to Chocolate\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Alice Medrich\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Seriously-Bitter-Sweet600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Seriously-Bitter-Sweet600.jpg\" alt=\"Seriously Bitter Sweet: The Ultimate Dessert Maker’s Guide to Chocolate by Alice Medrich\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75194\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>62 percent. 70 percent. 82 percent. Now that nearly all high-end (and plenty of supermarket) brands of eating and baking chocolate are labeled with their percentage of cocoa solids, home bakers can increasingly bake with the precision of professional pastry chefs. Alice Medrich, the Bay Area's longtime queen of chocolate, has thoroughly revised and updated her 2003 classic \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579651607/kqedorg-20\">Bittersweet: Recipes and Tales from a Life in Chocolate\u003c/a> to reflect the changes in today's chocolate. Explaining how the chemistry of different chocolate percentages can affect finished recipes, Medrich takes the guesswork out of chocolate dessert-making and ensures top-quality results every time. Plus, she doesn't subscribe to darker-is-better snobbery; instead, you'll find plenty of recipes working with good quality milk and even white chocolate here. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Grain Brain\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452114307/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Tartine Book No. 3\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Chad Robertson\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Tartine-Book600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Tartine-Book600.jpg\" alt=\"Tartine Book No. 3 by Chad Robertson\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75180\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Do you even have to ask? For the bread baking geek in your life, this holiday season is just a countdown to the publishing date of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452114307/kqedorg-20\">Tartine Book No. 3\u003c/a>, Chad Robertson's follow-up to his exquisitely detailed, method-driven \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0811870413/kqedorg-20\"> Tartine Bread\u003c/a>. Like so many of his chef compatriots, Robertson has moved beyond French culinary influences, heading north to discover the dark, cold-weather grains and baking traditions in Germany and Scandinavia. Subtitled \u003cem>Modern Ancient Classic Whole\u003c/em>, this book goes funky and deep with recipes for dense loaves based not just on whole grain flours but on sprouted whole grains and seeds as well as cooked-grain porridges. Next year's must-have party snack? Robertson's stunning homemade crispbreads, whose doughs are flavored with whole herbs and spices then thinned through a pasta machine to great stained-glass effect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While this isn't a gluten-free book (Robertson uses plenty of rye and barley), it does cover a lot of interesting grains, including emmer, kamut, einkorn, and spelt (all precursors to modern wheat strains) to inspire those looking to bake with options beyond standard supermarket flours. The book isn't limited to breads and crackers, either; there are a number of surprising, inventive sweets, including Salted Chocolate-Rye Cookies, Barley-Walnut-Fig Cookies, Bohemian Apple Layer Cake, Lemon-Poppy Seed Kefir Pound Cake, and even whole-grain versions of classic French pastries like palmiers, pithiviers, sables, and eclairs. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The DIY Carnivore\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743434/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>In The Charcuterie: The Fatted Calf's Guide to Making Sausage, Salumi, Pates, Roasts, Confits, and Other Meaty Goods\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Boet_In-the-Charcuterie.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Boet_In-the-Charcuterie.jpg\" alt=\"In The Charcuterie: The Fatted Calf’s Guide to Making Sausage, Salumi, Pates, Roasts, Confits, and Other Meaty Goods by Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75173\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Happily, sourcing locally pastured, humanely raised meats isn't difficult in the Bay Area anymore. Now, your kitchen table bragging rights come from what you can do with these well-bred meats. Husband and wife team Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller of the Fatted Calf share their secrets for (safely) making delicious charcuterie at home, along with a delectable number of dolled-up, rolled-up, flavored-up roasted, grilled, and braised meat dishes. Salt, spices, care, pork fat, and time will get you through most of the recipes in this book. (For more on the book, check out Kate Williams' \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/09/18/the-fatted-calfs-new-cookbook-brings-charcuterie-favorites-into-your-kitchen/\">Bay Area Bites interview with Boetticher and Miller\u003c/a>.) \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Wine Locavore\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743000/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>The New California Wine: A Guide to the Producers and Wines Behind a Revolution in Taste\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Jon Bonne \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Bonn_New-CA-Wine600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Bonn_New-CA-Wine600.jpg\" alt=\"The New California Wine: A Guide to the Producers and Wines Behind a Revolution in Taste by Jon Bonne\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75174\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco Chronicle wine writer Jon Bonne explores the new world of California winemaking, talking to a current crop of winemakers who are more interested in making balanced, restrained, and food-friendly wines than high-alcohol, big-fruit Cabs and Chards that made California a player on the international wine scene in past years. Using offbeat varietals and, often, more natural techniques, these growers and winemakers are opening up California wines to a new generation, and Bonne is a staunch advocate with a clear, well-informed style that's accessible to both interested drinkers and dedicated collectors. (For more on the book, check out \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/10/28/beyond-the-fruit-bomb-the-new-california-wine-by-jon-bonne/\">Rachael Myrow’s interview with Jon Bonne\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Cheese Fricos\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from Cowgirl Creamery Cooks by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith (Chronicle Books). Copyright © 2013.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Traditional fricos are thin, crisp disks formed from small mounds of grated Parmesan, but you can make fricos from most hard-aged grating cheeses. Some folks like to add flour or spices to fricos, but we don’t. We think the best fricos are made simply of cheese and used as a crispy finish to a salad or a bowl of polenta. It’s easiest to make fricos in your oven using parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet as the liner for a metal baking sheet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_75176\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks_Cheese-Fricos600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks_Cheese-Fricos600.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese Fricos. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-75176\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese Fricos. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 16 fricos\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 ounces (115 gms) Parmesan cheese, grated (or any hard grating cheese)\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Preheat the oven to 375°F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet. Use a tablespoon to measure a spoonful of the grated cheese. With your fingers, shape the cheese into mounds, arranged about 4 in/10 cm apart.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake just until the fricos begin to color, turning golden brown, 2 to 4 minutes. It’s easy to burn them, so as soon as you notice them darken and smell their fragrance, take them out of the oven. Let them cool on the baking sheet for 3 minutes and then use a metal spatula to transfer the fricos to a wire rack to cool completely.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>If you like, you can make these up to 2 days ahead. Store them in an airtight container in a cool, dark spot with wax paper between them so they don’t stick together.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Warm Mocha Tart\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from Seriously Bitter Sweet by Alice Medrich (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2013.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two weeks of nonstop shortbread testing produced an unorthodox surprise: perfect shortbread made with melted butter. That shortbread became an exquisitely crunchy and flavorful base for lemon bars, a crust for cheesecake, and, ultimately, my favorite sweet tart crust. I even bake brownie batter on top of it. This remarkable crust barely shrinks in the pan, so there is no need to weight or even prick it before baking. To ensure that the bottom remains crunchy, bake the crust fully, to a deep golden brown, before pouring in the filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time I was playing with the new tart crust, I was experimenting with different cocoas, tasting and comparing natural and Dutch-process in all kinds of recipes. Voilà, rich warm cocoa custard in the simplest crust. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_75181\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Warm-Mocha-Tart1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Warm-Mocha-Tart1000.jpg\" alt=\"Warm Mocha Tart. Photo: Deborah Jones\" width=\"1000\" height=\"784\" class=\"size-full wp-image-75181\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Warm Mocha Tart. Photo: Deborah Jones\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 tart, serves 8 to 10\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Special Equipment\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n9 1/2-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cem>For the Crust\u003c/em>\n\u003cli>7 tablespoons (100 grams) unsalted butter, melted\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup (50 grams) sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 teaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (130 grams) all-purpose flour\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cem>For the Filling\u003c/em>\n\u003cli>3 tablespoons (45 grams) unsalted butter, cut into chunks\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup (100 grams) sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup (25 grams) premium unsweetened cocoa powder (natural or Dutch-process) (\u003cem>see Chocolate Note\u003c/em>)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup heavy cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/4 teaspoons instant espresso powder (such as Medaglia d’Oro), or 1½ teaspoons instant coffee powder or crystals\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large egg, lightly beaten\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To make the tart crust: Mix the butter, sugar, salt, and vanilla in a medium bowl. Add the flour and mix just until well blended. Don’t worry if the dough seems too soft. Press all of the dough very thinly and evenly into the bottom and up the sides of the tart pan.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the crust is a deep golden brown.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Meanwhile, make the filling: Place the butter, sugar, cocoa powder, and cream in a medium saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring, until the mixture is blended and smooth and begins to simmer around the edges. Remove from the heat and stir in the espresso powder and vanilla.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Just before the crust is ready, whisk the egg thoroughly into the hot chocolate mixture.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pour the filling into the hot crust and turn off the oven. Leave the tart in the oven until it quivers like tender Jell-O in the center when the pan is nudged, 10 to 12 minutes. Cool on a rack.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Serve the tart warm or at room temperature.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Variation\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Espresso Walnut Tart:\u003c/strong> The same tart in a walnut cookie crust produces a subtler but still delicious effect. You could also make it with toasted skinned hazelnuts—then I would omit the espresso powder. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reduce the butter to 6 tablespoons (85 grams) and add 2 teaspoons brandy and 1 teaspoon instant espresso powder (or a heaping teaspoon instant coffee powder or crystals) with the sugar, salt, and vanilla. In a food processor, pulverize 1/3 cup (35 grams) walnut pieces with 3/4 cup (105 grams) flour until fine. Substitute this mixture for the flour. Proceed as directed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chocolate Note:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nEither natural or Dutch-process cocoa works well here. The former has a livelier, more complex, fruity flavor, while the latter has a cozy old-fashioned flavor reminiscent of chocolate pudding. You choose.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"How to match this season's best cookbooks with the special friends and family on your gift list? Our holiday cookbook guide offers the most mouthwatering books from the Bay Area's favorite food and wine writers. Includes recipes for Parmesan Fricos and Warm Mocha Tart. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1387395864,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":44,"wordCount":2429},"headData":{"title":"Holiday Cookbook Gift Guide: How to Match the Perfect Gift to Just the Right Gift-ee | KQED","description":"How to match this season's best cookbooks with the special friends and family on your gift list? Our holiday cookbook guide offers the most mouthwatering books from the Bay Area's favorite food and wine writers. Includes recipes for Parmesan Fricos and Warm Mocha Tart. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"75055 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=75055","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/12/17/holiday-cookbook-gift-guide-how-to-match-the-perfect-gift-to-just-the-right-gift-ee/","disqusTitle":"Holiday Cookbook Gift Guide: How to Match the Perfect Gift to Just the Right Gift-ee ","path":"/bayareabites/75055/holiday-cookbook-gift-guide-how-to-match-the-perfect-gift-to-just-the-right-gift-ee","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Lots of beautiful cookbooks from Bay Area restaurants, chefs, and writers are gracing our shelves this year. But how to match the perfect gift to just the right gift-ee? We've paired our favorite food and wine books with those most likely to appreciate them. And remember the great benefit of giving cookbooks: anyone to whom you give one of these great books should feel compelled to cook from it for you at least once. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Fancy Diners Who Actually Use Their Kitchen\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743973/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Manresa: An Edible Reflection\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by David Kinch\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0714865907/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Coi: Stories and Recipes\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Daniel Patterson\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Manresa600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Manresa600.jpg\" alt=\"Manresa: An Edible Reflection by David Kinch\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75178\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps (lucky you!) these are your in-laws or longtime family friends, these well-heeled folks who have actually, gracefully, splattered their copy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579651267/kqedorg-20\">The French Laundry Cookbook\u003c/a> with use. Want to keep getting invited to their wonderful dinner parties? Splurge on a copy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743973/kqedorg-20\">Manresa: An Edible Reflection\u003c/a>, by chef David Kinch. This is a big, show-stopping doorstopper of a book, with 300+ pages lavishly illustrated with gorgeous photos by Eric Wolfinger. The recipes are accompanied by Kinch's thoughts on the hyper-seasonal, hyper-local (the restaurant has its own dedicated micro-farm) cuisine he's been turning out since 2002 at his renowned Los Gatos restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/COI-600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/COI-600.jpg\" alt=\"Coi: Stories and Recipes by Daniel Patterson\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75175\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Or are your recipients strictly city people? Instead of sending them down to the peninsula, wrap up the elegant \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0714865907/kqedorg-20\">Coi: Stories and Recipes\u003c/a> by Daniel Patterson. Unlike most chefs, who rely on professional co-authors to shape their stories into evocative (or at least serviceable) prose, Patterson wrote his own text (and recipes), so nothing gets in the way of his strong personality and vision as he delves into the philosophies at work in his North Beach restaurant. The recipes, such as they are, are essays in themselves, densely written in small-font corona type alongside detailed origin stories by Patterson. Each recipe is scaled to precise tasting-menu size, with no corners cut for sous-chef-deprived home cooks; just making the restaurant's cultured butter takes more than a dozen steps and the better part of a week. Still, if your friends or family like a challenge in the kitchen, it doesn't get more sensual-cerebral than this. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Cheese Heads\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452111634/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks600.jpg\" alt=\"Cowgirl Creamery Cooks by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75177\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Something old, something new, something goat, something blue: For those who just can't get enough of that wonderful stuff, the top contender for dairy lovers is, of course, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452111634/kqedorg-20\">Cowgirl Creamery Cooks\u003c/a>. Owners Peggy Smith and Sue Conley tell their inspiring story of how a couple of Berkeley chefs (Smith at Chez Panisse, Conley at Bette's Oceanview Diner) ended up as the doyennes of Northern California cheese, making their own award-winning cheeses while spreading the good word about the culinary artisans and dairy farmers of West Marin and beyond. It includes a comprehensive set of recipes, many inspired by the menu at Sidekick, their Ferry Building prepared-foods counter, covering everything from egg creams and frosty flavored milks to cheese plates, cheese pairings and condiments, salads, sandwiches, and all manner of gooey, cheesy delights like crunchy Fricos (\u003cem>recipe below\u003c/em>), Smokey Blue and Bacon Souffle, and Three-Cheese Lasagna with Mushrooms and Spinach. (For more on the book, check out Brie Mazurek's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/11/03/cheese-pioneers-an-interview-with-cowgirl-creamery-about-their-first-book-cowgirl-creamery-cooks/\"> CUESA interview with Sue Conley\u003c/a>.) \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Pinterest-ing Cook\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579654673/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>One Good Dish\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by David Tanis\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/One-Good-Dish600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/One-Good-Dish600.jpg\" alt=\"One Good Dish by David Tanis\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75195\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Your niece is just out of college and IKEA-furnishing her first apartment. She loves to Instagram, she loves to pin, and she wants her food to look just as good as it tastes, but she's still figuring out her way around the kitchen. Any of Ina Gartner's easy, reliable books might feed her and her friends well, but for the hip young things among us, Ina is the mom jeans of cookbook authors. Show her you're still the cool aunt or uncle with \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579654673/kqedorg-20\">One Good Dish\u003c/a> by David Tanis. Here are appealingly simple recipes with plenty of casual style but no fuss, showing there's no need to spend a whole paycheck just to get a shareable dinner on the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Bake Sale Baker\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452113831/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>The Model Bakery Cookbook: 75 Favorite Recipes from the Beloved Napa Valley Bakery\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Karen Mitchell and Sarah Mitchell Hansen with Rick Rodgers\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Model-Bakery600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Model-Bakery600.jpg\" alt=\"The Model Bakery Cookbook: 75 Favorite Recipes from the Beloved Napa Valley Bakery by Karen Mitchell and Sarah Mitchell Hansen with Rick Rodgers\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75179\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For longtime fans of Napa's Model Bakery, the recipe for their signature English muffins--so fat! so fluffy!--alone would be worth the price. But this bright, cheery baking book includes recipes for 74 more all-American favorites, starting the day off right with Cranberry-Buttermilk Scones, carroty-coconutty Morning Glory Muffins, cinnamon-sugar Morning Buns, and almond-crunchy Bear Claws, then moving on to Red Velvet Cupcakes, Carmelita Bars, triple-decker Chocolate Mousse Cake, Peach Streusel Pie, and more. (Lots of useful holiday recipes, too, from Festive Sugar Cookies, Gingerbread Cookies, Gingerbread Houses, and a chocolate-and-coffee Buche de Noel.) Prolific cookbook author Rick Rodgers provides easy-to-follow, well-tested translations of the bakery's recipes for home cooks, while mother-daughter owners Karen Mitchell and Sarah Mitchell Hansen describe how they turned this historic bakery into a much-loved destination for locals and visitors alike. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Chocolate Chemist\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579655114/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Seriously Bitter Sweet: The Ultimate Dessert Maker's Guide to Chocolate\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Alice Medrich\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Seriously-Bitter-Sweet600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Seriously-Bitter-Sweet600.jpg\" alt=\"Seriously Bitter Sweet: The Ultimate Dessert Maker’s Guide to Chocolate by Alice Medrich\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75194\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>62 percent. 70 percent. 82 percent. Now that nearly all high-end (and plenty of supermarket) brands of eating and baking chocolate are labeled with their percentage of cocoa solids, home bakers can increasingly bake with the precision of professional pastry chefs. Alice Medrich, the Bay Area's longtime queen of chocolate, has thoroughly revised and updated her 2003 classic \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579651607/kqedorg-20\">Bittersweet: Recipes and Tales from a Life in Chocolate\u003c/a> to reflect the changes in today's chocolate. Explaining how the chemistry of different chocolate percentages can affect finished recipes, Medrich takes the guesswork out of chocolate dessert-making and ensures top-quality results every time. Plus, she doesn't subscribe to darker-is-better snobbery; instead, you'll find plenty of recipes working with good quality milk and even white chocolate here. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Grain Brain\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452114307/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>Tartine Book No. 3\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Chad Robertson\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Tartine-Book600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Tartine-Book600.jpg\" alt=\"Tartine Book No. 3 by Chad Robertson\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75180\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Do you even have to ask? For the bread baking geek in your life, this holiday season is just a countdown to the publishing date of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452114307/kqedorg-20\">Tartine Book No. 3\u003c/a>, Chad Robertson's follow-up to his exquisitely detailed, method-driven \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0811870413/kqedorg-20\"> Tartine Bread\u003c/a>. Like so many of his chef compatriots, Robertson has moved beyond French culinary influences, heading north to discover the dark, cold-weather grains and baking traditions in Germany and Scandinavia. Subtitled \u003cem>Modern Ancient Classic Whole\u003c/em>, this book goes funky and deep with recipes for dense loaves based not just on whole grain flours but on sprouted whole grains and seeds as well as cooked-grain porridges. Next year's must-have party snack? Robertson's stunning homemade crispbreads, whose doughs are flavored with whole herbs and spices then thinned through a pasta machine to great stained-glass effect.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While this isn't a gluten-free book (Robertson uses plenty of rye and barley), it does cover a lot of interesting grains, including emmer, kamut, einkorn, and spelt (all precursors to modern wheat strains) to inspire those looking to bake with options beyond standard supermarket flours. The book isn't limited to breads and crackers, either; there are a number of surprising, inventive sweets, including Salted Chocolate-Rye Cookies, Barley-Walnut-Fig Cookies, Bohemian Apple Layer Cake, Lemon-Poppy Seed Kefir Pound Cake, and even whole-grain versions of classic French pastries like palmiers, pithiviers, sables, and eclairs. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The DIY Carnivore\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743434/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>In The Charcuterie: The Fatted Calf's Guide to Making Sausage, Salumi, Pates, Roasts, Confits, and Other Meaty Goods\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Boet_In-the-Charcuterie.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Boet_In-the-Charcuterie.jpg\" alt=\"In The Charcuterie: The Fatted Calf’s Guide to Making Sausage, Salumi, Pates, Roasts, Confits, and Other Meaty Goods by Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75173\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Happily, sourcing locally pastured, humanely raised meats isn't difficult in the Bay Area anymore. Now, your kitchen table bragging rights come from what you can do with these well-bred meats. Husband and wife team Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller of the Fatted Calf share their secrets for (safely) making delicious charcuterie at home, along with a delectable number of dolled-up, rolled-up, flavored-up roasted, grilled, and braised meat dishes. Salt, spices, care, pork fat, and time will get you through most of the recipes in this book. (For more on the book, check out Kate Williams' \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/09/18/the-fatted-calfs-new-cookbook-brings-charcuterie-favorites-into-your-kitchen/\">Bay Area Bites interview with Boetticher and Miller\u003c/a>.) \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Wine Locavore\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1607743000/kqedorg-20\">\u003cstrong>The New California Wine: A Guide to the Producers and Wines Behind a Revolution in Taste\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> by Jon Bonne \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Bonn_New-CA-Wine600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Bonn_New-CA-Wine600.jpg\" alt=\"The New California Wine: A Guide to the Producers and Wines Behind a Revolution in Taste by Jon Bonne\" width=\"300\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-75174\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>San Francisco Chronicle wine writer Jon Bonne explores the new world of California winemaking, talking to a current crop of winemakers who are more interested in making balanced, restrained, and food-friendly wines than high-alcohol, big-fruit Cabs and Chards that made California a player on the international wine scene in past years. Using offbeat varietals and, often, more natural techniques, these growers and winemakers are opening up California wines to a new generation, and Bonne is a staunch advocate with a clear, well-informed style that's accessible to both interested drinkers and dedicated collectors. (For more on the book, check out \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/10/28/beyond-the-fruit-bomb-the-new-california-wine-by-jon-bonne/\">Rachael Myrow’s interview with Jon Bonne\u003c/a>.)\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Cheese Fricos\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from Cowgirl Creamery Cooks by Sue Conley and Peggy Smith (Chronicle Books). Copyright © 2013.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Traditional fricos are thin, crisp disks formed from small mounds of grated Parmesan, but you can make fricos from most hard-aged grating cheeses. Some folks like to add flour or spices to fricos, but we don’t. We think the best fricos are made simply of cheese and used as a crispy finish to a salad or a bowl of polenta. It’s easiest to make fricos in your oven using parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet as the liner for a metal baking sheet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_75176\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks_Cheese-Fricos600.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Cowgirl-Creamery-Cooks_Cheese-Fricos600.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese Fricos. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\" width=\"400\" class=\"size-full wp-image-75176\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese Fricos. Photo: Hirsheimer & Hamilton\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 16 fricos\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 ounces (115 gms) Parmesan cheese, grated (or any hard grating cheese)\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Preheat the oven to 375°F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking sheet. Use a tablespoon to measure a spoonful of the grated cheese. With your fingers, shape the cheese into mounds, arranged about 4 in/10 cm apart.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake just until the fricos begin to color, turning golden brown, 2 to 4 minutes. It’s easy to burn them, so as soon as you notice them darken and smell their fragrance, take them out of the oven. Let them cool on the baking sheet for 3 minutes and then use a metal spatula to transfer the fricos to a wire rack to cool completely.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>If you like, you can make these up to 2 days ahead. Store them in an airtight container in a cool, dark spot with wax paper between them so they don’t stick together.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Warm Mocha Tart\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from Seriously Bitter Sweet by Alice Medrich (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2013.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Two weeks of nonstop shortbread testing produced an unorthodox surprise: perfect shortbread made with melted butter. That shortbread became an exquisitely crunchy and flavorful base for lemon bars, a crust for cheesecake, and, ultimately, my favorite sweet tart crust. I even bake brownie batter on top of it. This remarkable crust barely shrinks in the pan, so there is no need to weight or even prick it before baking. To ensure that the bottom remains crunchy, bake the crust fully, to a deep golden brown, before pouring in the filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time I was playing with the new tart crust, I was experimenting with different cocoas, tasting and comparing natural and Dutch-process in all kinds of recipes. Voilà, rich warm cocoa custard in the simplest crust. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_75181\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Warm-Mocha-Tart1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/Warm-Mocha-Tart1000.jpg\" alt=\"Warm Mocha Tart. Photo: Deborah Jones\" width=\"1000\" height=\"784\" class=\"size-full wp-image-75181\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Warm Mocha Tart. Photo: Deborah Jones\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 tart, serves 8 to 10\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Special Equipment\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n9 1/2-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cem>For the Crust\u003c/em>\n\u003cli>7 tablespoons (100 grams) unsalted butter, melted\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup (50 grams) sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/8 teaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (130 grams) all-purpose flour\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cem>For the Filling\u003c/em>\n\u003cli>3 tablespoons (45 grams) unsalted butter, cut into chunks\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup (100 grams) sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup (25 grams) premium unsweetened cocoa powder (natural or Dutch-process) (\u003cem>see Chocolate Note\u003c/em>)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup heavy cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/4 teaspoons instant espresso powder (such as Medaglia d’Oro), or 1½ teaspoons instant coffee powder or crystals\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large egg, lightly beaten\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>To make the tart crust: Mix the butter, sugar, salt, and vanilla in a medium bowl. Add the flour and mix just until well blended. Don’t worry if the dough seems too soft. Press all of the dough very thinly and evenly into the bottom and up the sides of the tart pan.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the crust is a deep golden brown.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Meanwhile, make the filling: Place the butter, sugar, cocoa powder, and cream in a medium saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring, until the mixture is blended and smooth and begins to simmer around the edges. Remove from the heat and stir in the espresso powder and vanilla.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Just before the crust is ready, whisk the egg thoroughly into the hot chocolate mixture.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pour the filling into the hot crust and turn off the oven. Leave the tart in the oven until it quivers like tender Jell-O in the center when the pan is nudged, 10 to 12 minutes. Cool on a rack.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Serve the tart warm or at room temperature.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Variation\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Espresso Walnut Tart:\u003c/strong> The same tart in a walnut cookie crust produces a subtler but still delicious effect. You could also make it with toasted skinned hazelnuts—then I would omit the espresso powder. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reduce the butter to 6 tablespoons (85 grams) and add 2 teaspoons brandy and 1 teaspoon instant espresso powder (or a heaping teaspoon instant coffee powder or crystals) with the sugar, salt, and vanilla. In a food processor, pulverize 1/3 cup (35 grams) walnut pieces with 3/4 cup (105 grams) flour until fine. Substitute this mixture for the flour. Proceed as directed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chocolate Note:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nEither natural or Dutch-process cocoa works well here. The former has a livelier, more complex, fruity flavor, while the latter has a cozy old-fashioned flavor reminiscent of chocolate pudding. You choose.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/75055/holiday-cookbook-gift-guide-how-to-match-the-perfect-gift-to-just-the-right-gift-ee","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_188","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_119"],"tags":["bayareabites_600","bayareabites_3998","bayareabites_14758","bayareabites_3999","bayareabites_2763","bayareabites_1531","bayareabites_1684","bayareabites_11545","bayareabites_3997","bayareabites_12791","bayareabites_12602"],"featImg":"bayareabites_75205","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_49244":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_49244","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"49244","score":null,"sort":[1348788267000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"2012-eat-real-festival-day-3-highlights","title":"2012 Eat Real Festival: Day 3 Highlights","publishDate":1348788267,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000d.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000d.jpg\" alt=\"Milk-Fed Brunch at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Milk-Fed Brunch at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49365\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Milk-Fed Brunch booth at Eat Real Festival.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>All Photos:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.coirestaurant.com\">Coi\u003c/a> chef \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/07/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson/\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a> isn't usually a five-bucks-a-plate kind of guy. \u003ca href=\"http://canerossosf.com/\">Il Cane Rosso\u003c/a> in the Ferry Building, his most casual spot, will make you a $9 egg-salad sandwich; at Jack London Square's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/10/let-them-cook-for-you-haven/\">Haven\u003c/a>, $6 will buy you a side of Chantenay carrots with hay and \u003ca href=\"http://www.vadouvan.com/\">vadouvan\u003c/a>. Toying with the tasting menu at Coi, from abalone with nettle-dandelion salsa verde to frozen lime marshmallow, will set you back a cool 165 clams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000b.jpg\" alt=\"Daniel Patterson and crew at 2012 Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Daniel Patterson and crew at 2012 Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49363\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Daniel Patterson (center) and crew at Eat Real Festival's Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But here was Patterson on a sunny Sunday morning in Oakland, surrounded by a crew of at least a dozen. Bent double over their folding-table workstations, they draped slices of grilled lamb over mounds of herby three-grain salad (farro, buckwheat, and wheat berries), doused cubes of poached veal in bone broth, and scooped slivers of string beans and fresh shelling beans over slices of fat-ringed pork confit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-veal10001.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-veal10001.jpg\" alt=\"Milk Poached Veal from Eat Real Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Milk Poached Veal from Eat Real Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49397\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Milk Poached Veal from Eat Real Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The price for each appetizer-sized plate? Five bucks, and did we mention that all the meat came from young, milk-fed animals (hence the name) raised on the pastures of \u003ca href=\"http://www.belcampoinc.com/inc/#!/company/about\">Belcampo Meats\u003c/a>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-lamb-pork500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-lamb-pork500.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled Lamb and Pig Confit at Eat Real Sunday Milk-fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Grilled Lamb and Pig Confit at Eat Real Sunday Milk-fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" height=\"747\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49368\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Grilled Lamb and Pig Confit at Eat Real Sunday Milk-fed Brunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was the Milk-Fed Brunch touted by \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatrealfest.com\">Eat Real\u003c/a>, and if grilled lamb and veal meatballs weren't exactly typical brunch fare, those who managed to find Patterson's stand, which was tucked away at the far end of the Eat Real Festival's sprawl, next to the manically shouting hucksters of the Toyota sponsors' display, enjoyed some restaurant-quality eats, made with a degree of care and flavor-layering not usually seen in such a setting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Mike-the-Bejkr1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Mike-the-Bejkr1000.jpg\" alt=\" Mike the bejkr Zakowski at Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\" Mike the bejkr Zakowski at Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49391\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mike [the bejkr] Zakowski at Eat Real Festival in Oakland\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides downing some excellent lamb and very tender veal and carrots, tracking down Patterson's booth helped us stumble upon the surprisingly un-swamped stand of Sonoma's \u003ca href=\"http://www.cultsonoma.com/2011/03/a-good-baker-mike-the-bejkr-zakowski-sonoma-valley/\">Mike the Bejkr\u003c/a>, whose artisan, wood-oven loaves are easily the match of Tartine Bakery's line-out-the-door breads. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/eatreal-bejkr1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/eatreal-bejkr1000.jpg\" alt=\"Mike the Bejkr. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Mike the Bejkr. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49390\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mike had four different loaves (including a hefty pain de campagne stenciled with \"real eat\" in flour on the crust) but the real delight was his fresh-from-the-oven Tuscan schiacciata, oval pizza-like flatbreads loaded with local farm veggies, including zucchini, onion, and red peppers. On Friday mornings at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.svcfm.org/\">Sonoma Valley Farmers' Market\u003c/a>, he says, his stall is mobbed from opening to closing; here, the lines were longer for lumpia. Still, this meant no wait for us in snagging a fresh loaf and a hot, melty-cheesed schiacciata, definitely one of the very best things we ate all weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tuscan-schiacciata500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tuscan-schiacciata500.jpg\" alt=\"Wood-Fired Schiacciata from Mike the Bejkr at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Wood-Fired Schiacciata from Mike the Bejkr at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" height=\"747\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49392\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wood-Fired Schiacciata from Mike the Bejkr at Eat Real Festival\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, with baking on our minds, it was over the \u003ca href=\"http://www.eco-sf.org\">Ecology Center SF\u003c/a>'s table, where a fire was burning in the cob-built community oven and Laurie Ellen Pelicano of \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com\">Tartine Bakery\u003c/a> was demonstrating the fine art of dough-rolling, sharing the skills she's developed making some of the dozens and dozens of galettes that Tartine Bakery sells each day. No bowl needed here; instead, Pelicano dusted her chilled butter cubes with flour, made a casual little well in a mound of flour, dropped in the butter and started rolling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tartine-eatreal560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tartine-eatreal560.jpg\" alt=\" Laurie Ellen Pelicano of Tartine Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" title=\" Laurie Ellen Pelicano of Tartine Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49399\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n \u003cem>Laurie Ellen Pelicano of Tartine Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few passes, and she had a steam-rollered heap of long, flat butter shards coated in flour. Shaped into another well, she added water (much less than you think), and started, casually again, to fold the flour-and-butter shards over themselves, gently distributing the water while scraping the mixture into a mound. As she mixed, she passed along tips on avoiding the basic mistakes most home bakers make, including:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't cut your butter in too finely, especially if you're using a food processor. Stop once the butter's the size of M&Ms; taking the mixture all the way to sand or cornmeal will make a dough that's crumbly, not flaky. Use just enough water to make it hold together; if you tap your squeezed-together handful of dough, it should fall apart. And finally, most importantly, don't overwork the finished dough. That nice, gummy, workable Play-Doh texture? Not what you want. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as a handful would hold together, it was wrapped and put in a cooler to chill. Well-prepared, Pelicano pulled out another already-chilled cube of dough and starting rolling, quickly filling her round of dough with apple slices, a squirt of lemon and a sprinkle of organic sugar, then flipping up the edges of the dough to lap over the apples. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That charming wood oven didn't do a very good job of baking Pelicano's demo galettes, which came out burned on the bottom and slightly underbaked within, but none of the watchers minded. Who would turn down a slice of Tartine-style galette, fresh out of the oven, with no line to wait in? Even better, Pelicano sent interested bakers home with chunks of her leftover dough for their own kitchen experiments. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then it was time for beer in a jar: chocolatey-dark \u003ca href=\"http://www.pacbrewlab.com/beers/squid-ink/\">Squid Ink\u003c/a>, even darker \u003ca href=\"http://www.moonlightbrewing.com/\">Death and Taxes\u003c/a>, autumn-y, crisp Bahl Hornin Mow Keef from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.avbc.com\">Anderson Valley Brewing Company\u003c/a>. And then over to the main stage, where \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Dave-the-Butcher/313452850163\"> Dave the Butcher\u003c/a> and (relative) newbie Daren King were duking it out in the Flying Knives pork-butchering competition, narrated by Belcampo Meats CEO Anya Fernald, with frequent check-ins by the team of judges. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000.jpg\" alt=\"Dave the Butcher battles Daren King at 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Dave the Butcher battles Daren King at 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49405\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dave the Butcher battles Daren King at 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000a.jpg\" alt=\"Dave the Butcher hi-fives Daren King at the conclusion of the 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Dave the Butcher hi-fives Daren King at the conclusion of the 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49413\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dave the Butcher hi-fives Daren King at the conclusion of the 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A whole pig, 45 minutes, and by the end, King won the trophy, and it was time to go home and see what we could make for dinner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/winner-butchery-contest10001.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/winner-butchery-contest10001.jpg\" alt=\"Daren King was victorious over Dave the Butcher in the Eat Real Festivals 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Daren King was victorious over Dave the Butcher in the Eat Real Festivals 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49402\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Daren King was victorious over Dave the Butcher in the Eat Real Festival's 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Daniel Patterson for five bucks, Tuscan-perfect flatbread, Tartine pastry how-tos, and a couple of flying knives: Day 3 of Eat Real. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1437801533,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":1037},"headData":{"title":"2012 Eat Real Festival: Day 3 Highlights | KQED","description":"Daniel Patterson for five bucks, Tuscan-perfect flatbread, Tartine pastry how-tos, and a couple of flying knives: Day 3 of Eat Real. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"49244 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=49244","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/09/27/2012-eat-real-festival-day-3-highlights/","disqusTitle":"2012 Eat Real Festival: Day 3 Highlights","path":"/bayareabites/49244/2012-eat-real-festival-day-3-highlights","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000d.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000d.jpg\" alt=\"Milk-Fed Brunch at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Milk-Fed Brunch at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49365\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Milk-Fed Brunch booth at Eat Real Festival.\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>All Photos:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/wendy-goodfriend/\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.coirestaurant.com\">Coi\u003c/a> chef \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/07/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson/\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a> isn't usually a five-bucks-a-plate kind of guy. \u003ca href=\"http://canerossosf.com/\">Il Cane Rosso\u003c/a> in the Ferry Building, his most casual spot, will make you a $9 egg-salad sandwich; at Jack London Square's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/10/let-them-cook-for-you-haven/\">Haven\u003c/a>, $6 will buy you a side of Chantenay carrots with hay and \u003ca href=\"http://www.vadouvan.com/\">vadouvan\u003c/a>. Toying with the tasting menu at Coi, from abalone with nettle-dandelion salsa verde to frozen lime marshmallow, will set you back a cool 165 clams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/daniel-patterson1000b.jpg\" alt=\"Daniel Patterson and crew at 2012 Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Daniel Patterson and crew at 2012 Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49363\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Daniel Patterson (center) and crew at Eat Real Festival's Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But here was Patterson on a sunny Sunday morning in Oakland, surrounded by a crew of at least a dozen. Bent double over their folding-table workstations, they draped slices of grilled lamb over mounds of herby three-grain salad (farro, buckwheat, and wheat berries), doused cubes of poached veal in bone broth, and scooped slivers of string beans and fresh shelling beans over slices of fat-ringed pork confit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-veal10001.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-veal10001.jpg\" alt=\"Milk Poached Veal from Eat Real Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Milk Poached Veal from Eat Real Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49397\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Milk Poached Veal from Eat Real Sunday Milk-Fed Brunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The price for each appetizer-sized plate? Five bucks, and did we mention that all the meat came from young, milk-fed animals (hence the name) raised on the pastures of \u003ca href=\"http://www.belcampoinc.com/inc/#!/company/about\">Belcampo Meats\u003c/a>?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-lamb-pork500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/danielpatterson-lamb-pork500.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled Lamb and Pig Confit at Eat Real Sunday Milk-fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Grilled Lamb and Pig Confit at Eat Real Sunday Milk-fed Brunch. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" height=\"747\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49368\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Grilled Lamb and Pig Confit at Eat Real Sunday Milk-fed Brunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was the Milk-Fed Brunch touted by \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatrealfest.com\">Eat Real\u003c/a>, and if grilled lamb and veal meatballs weren't exactly typical brunch fare, those who managed to find Patterson's stand, which was tucked away at the far end of the Eat Real Festival's sprawl, next to the manically shouting hucksters of the Toyota sponsors' display, enjoyed some restaurant-quality eats, made with a degree of care and flavor-layering not usually seen in such a setting. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Mike-the-Bejkr1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/Mike-the-Bejkr1000.jpg\" alt=\" Mike the bejkr Zakowski at Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\" Mike the bejkr Zakowski at Eat Real Festival in Oakland. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49391\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mike [the bejkr] Zakowski at Eat Real Festival in Oakland\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Besides downing some excellent lamb and very tender veal and carrots, tracking down Patterson's booth helped us stumble upon the surprisingly un-swamped stand of Sonoma's \u003ca href=\"http://www.cultsonoma.com/2011/03/a-good-baker-mike-the-bejkr-zakowski-sonoma-valley/\">Mike the Bejkr\u003c/a>, whose artisan, wood-oven loaves are easily the match of Tartine Bakery's line-out-the-door breads. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/eatreal-bejkr1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/eatreal-bejkr1000.jpg\" alt=\"Mike the Bejkr. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Mike the Bejkr. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49390\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mike had four different loaves (including a hefty pain de campagne stenciled with \"real eat\" in flour on the crust) but the real delight was his fresh-from-the-oven Tuscan schiacciata, oval pizza-like flatbreads loaded with local farm veggies, including zucchini, onion, and red peppers. On Friday mornings at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.svcfm.org/\">Sonoma Valley Farmers' Market\u003c/a>, he says, his stall is mobbed from opening to closing; here, the lines were longer for lumpia. Still, this meant no wait for us in snagging a fresh loaf and a hot, melty-cheesed schiacciata, definitely one of the very best things we ate all weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tuscan-schiacciata500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tuscan-schiacciata500.jpg\" alt=\"Wood-Fired Schiacciata from Mike the Bejkr at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Wood-Fired Schiacciata from Mike the Bejkr at Eat Real Festival. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"500\" height=\"747\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49392\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Wood-Fired Schiacciata from Mike the Bejkr at Eat Real Festival\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, with baking on our minds, it was over the \u003ca href=\"http://www.eco-sf.org\">Ecology Center SF\u003c/a>'s table, where a fire was burning in the cob-built community oven and Laurie Ellen Pelicano of \u003ca href=\"http://www.tartinebakery.com\">Tartine Bakery\u003c/a> was demonstrating the fine art of dough-rolling, sharing the skills she's developed making some of the dozens and dozens of galettes that Tartine Bakery sells each day. No bowl needed here; instead, Pelicano dusted her chilled butter cubes with flour, made a casual little well in a mound of flour, dropped in the butter and started rolling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tartine-eatreal560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/tartine-eatreal560.jpg\" alt=\" Laurie Ellen Pelicano of Tartine Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" title=\" Laurie Ellen Pelicano of Tartine Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49399\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n \u003cem>Laurie Ellen Pelicano of Tartine Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few passes, and she had a steam-rollered heap of long, flat butter shards coated in flour. Shaped into another well, she added water (much less than you think), and started, casually again, to fold the flour-and-butter shards over themselves, gently distributing the water while scraping the mixture into a mound. As she mixed, she passed along tips on avoiding the basic mistakes most home bakers make, including:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't cut your butter in too finely, especially if you're using a food processor. Stop once the butter's the size of M&Ms; taking the mixture all the way to sand or cornmeal will make a dough that's crumbly, not flaky. Use just enough water to make it hold together; if you tap your squeezed-together handful of dough, it should fall apart. And finally, most importantly, don't overwork the finished dough. That nice, gummy, workable Play-Doh texture? Not what you want. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As soon as a handful would hold together, it was wrapped and put in a cooler to chill. Well-prepared, Pelicano pulled out another already-chilled cube of dough and starting rolling, quickly filling her round of dough with apple slices, a squirt of lemon and a sprinkle of organic sugar, then flipping up the edges of the dough to lap over the apples. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That charming wood oven didn't do a very good job of baking Pelicano's demo galettes, which came out burned on the bottom and slightly underbaked within, but none of the watchers minded. Who would turn down a slice of Tartine-style galette, fresh out of the oven, with no line to wait in? Even better, Pelicano sent interested bakers home with chunks of her leftover dough for their own kitchen experiments. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then it was time for beer in a jar: chocolatey-dark \u003ca href=\"http://www.pacbrewlab.com/beers/squid-ink/\">Squid Ink\u003c/a>, even darker \u003ca href=\"http://www.moonlightbrewing.com/\">Death and Taxes\u003c/a>, autumn-y, crisp Bahl Hornin Mow Keef from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.avbc.com\">Anderson Valley Brewing Company\u003c/a>. And then over to the main stage, where \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Dave-the-Butcher/313452850163\"> Dave the Butcher\u003c/a> and (relative) newbie Daren King were duking it out in the Flying Knives pork-butchering competition, narrated by Belcampo Meats CEO Anya Fernald, with frequent check-ins by the team of judges. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000.jpg\" alt=\"Dave the Butcher battles Daren King at 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Dave the Butcher battles Daren King at 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49405\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dave the Butcher battles Daren King at 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/butchery-contest1000a.jpg\" alt=\"Dave the Butcher hi-fives Daren King at the conclusion of the 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Dave the Butcher hi-fives Daren King at the conclusion of the 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49413\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Dave the Butcher hi-fives Daren King at the conclusion of the 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A whole pig, 45 minutes, and by the end, King won the trophy, and it was time to go home and see what we could make for dinner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/winner-butchery-contest10001.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/09/winner-butchery-contest10001.jpg\" alt=\"Daren King was victorious over Dave the Butcher in the Eat Real Festivals 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Daren King was victorious over Dave the Butcher in the Eat Real Festivals 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-49402\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Daren King was victorious over Dave the Butcher in the Eat Real Festival's 3rd Annual Flying Knives Pork Butchery Contest.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/49244/2012-eat-real-festival-day-3-highlights","authors":["5038","5014"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_301","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_64","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_181"],"tags":["bayareabites_3998","bayareabites_3999","bayareabites_4105","bayareabites_2642","bayareabites_10066","bayareabites_10770"],"featImg":"bayareabites_49413","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_46148":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_46148","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"46148","score":null,"sort":[1342892114000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"chef-profile-maverick%e2%80%99s-emmanel-eng","title":"Chef Profile: Maverick’s Emmanuel Eng","publishDate":1342892114,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/400EngandYouks-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/400EngandYouks-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chefs Emmanuel Eng and Scott Youkilis. photo courtesy of Maverick\" title=\"Chefs Emmanuel Eng and Scott Youkilis. photo courtesy of Maverick\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46156\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chefs Emmanuel Eng and Scott Youkilis. Photo courtesy of Maverick\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a petite-sized spot, yet shows mighty potential. \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfmaverick.com/\">Maverick restaurant\u003c/a> has spent the last seven years cranking out various forms of American food in the Mission -- at times high-brow and other times with more of a decidedly Southern and comfy bent. Owners Mike Pierce and executive chef Scott Youkilis brought on and promoted Emmanel Eng, 33, as executive chef in recent months. Eng’s artistic eye is clear in the refreshed menu and clean yet playfully creative plating style. He considers Nancy Oakes a big influencer and mentor in his culinary life and talked his way into a weekly stage that quickly led to full-time line cook work at Indigo restaurant. The Noe Valley resident cooked under Oakes at Boulevard, and has had stints at Sons & Daughters, Foreign Cinema, Quince and Aqua. Eng grew up in Portland, Oregon and studied at the Rhode Island School of Design. One of the reasons he was drawn to the Bay Area was to work for dot-coms (more on that soon) but cooking, a long-term girlfriend, bicycling and designing high-end bicycles are why he stayed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites\u003c/strong> caught up with Eng via phone interview.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did you get interested in cooking?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI went to the Rhode Island School of Design so it’s hard to say how one led to the other. In high school I was really into design and art. The correlation was working with my hands, which helped me get into cooking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Becoming a cook as a career was more a product of moving to San Francisco. During college I went to Sweden and was a backpacker. I got a job at a cafeteria: washing lettuce, slicing tomatoes, and making things like a 50-pound pile of mashed potatoes. It was not glamorous but it was fun. That put me in the world of food production: mundane food but I had to serve it. I found a lot of satisfaction seeing people enjoy and eat the food and liked having the “Jewish mom/Asian grandma” syndrome of wanting to take care of people. When I moved to San Francisco, I was doing design for a dot-com and was laid off. Since I was always eating at a lot of nice places, a friend said “Why not do a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stage_(cooking)\">stage\u003c/a>?” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I walked into Indigo and said, “I will work for free if you teach me.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Who is your mentor?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nNancy Oakes at Boulevard. I still stop by there to check in and see how she’s doing, how things are. That’s where I did most of my development. There’s that classic line cook mentality at other places of work your way up. Then you have that feeling that you’ve seen all you can see. I did that for a long time. When I got to Boulevard, I found it was a place that I really wanted to work, for five years. That’s not common for someone to stick around so long. After five years, it took me that long to say, ok, time for me to move away from line cook and Sous chef and take the leap to be chef de cuisine or open my own place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tell us more about doing your own place.\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI have thoughts about it all the time. What it’s going to be changes all the time. I wrote the business plan as a concept of what I want. My five year plan is to hopefully be chef-owner of a place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you have a significant other? How did you two meet?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy girlfriend Ann was a server at Boulevard. We didn’t get together until after she quit. We’ve been together five years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your favorite spots for food & drink in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.locandasf.com/\">Locanda\u003c/a>: I was there on Tuesday night. David Chang and a lot of people were there and it was fun. We were all chatting and hanging out. I go there pretty often for the Bucatini. I really love that the bartenders let me sit down and they create something. I may request something light and refreshing and say, \"It was hot in the kitchen today.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.koipalace.com/default.htm\">Koi Palace\u003c/a> for dim sum. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ritualroasters.com/\">Ritual Roasters\u003c/a> is where I go for coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/403Eng_Ash-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/403Eng_Ash-new.jpg\" alt=\"Burrata ashed with fig leaf ash, baby beets, Chioggia beet chips, black mission figs, pine nut and pine nut butter, charred fig leaf oil with French breakfast radishes.\" title=\"Burrata ashed with fig leaf ash, baby beets, Chioggia beet chips, black mission figs, pine nut and pine nut butter, charred fig leaf oil with French breakfast radishes.\" width=\"403\" height=\"403\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46157\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Burrata ashed with fig leaf ash, baby beets, Chioggia beet chips, black mission figs, pine nut and pine nut butter, charred fig leaf oil with French breakfast radishes. Photo courtesy of Maverick\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Happy seventh birthday, Maverick. What’s new at the restaurant?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI’ve been using ash [for the dish: burrata ashed with fig leaf ash, baby beets, Chioggia beet chips, black mission figs, pine nut and pine nut butter, charred fig leaf oil with French breakfast radishes]. For our spring version, the dish had corn ash, fiddlehead ferns and ramps. The original idea was to toast cornhusks until they’re nice and golden brown. Then I was going to make a sauce or foam. I hadn’t figured out what I was doing at that point. It smelled amazing so I put in the blender and it tasted like cocoa powder. Not bitter or burnt, and by accident. I was thinking of ash rind -- since there’s that goat cheese with a layer of ash. It makes sense -- in connection with how cheese is made and an ash rind burrata.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That evolved into a version with beets and figs, which was a combination of how \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/07/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson/\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a> at Coi took fig leaves and grilled them and turned into an oil. I copied him, because it was amazing. If corn husks burn so well, I wondered if fig leaves would. I knew someone who worked there, and I said “One day I’ll do this.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/560Eng_HalibutCheek.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/560Eng_HalibutCheek.jpg\" alt=\"halibut cheeks dusted in masa, saffron and zucchini bisque, castelvetrano olive caviar and heirloom tomato relish, bloomsdale spinach, fried zucchini sticks and lemon marigold flowers \" title=\"halibut cheeks dusted in masa, saffron and zucchini bisque, castelvetrano olive caviar and heirloom tomato relish, bloomsdale spinach, fried zucchini sticks and lemon marigold flowers \" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46165\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Halibut cheeks dusted in masa, saffron and zucchini bisque, castelvetrano olive \"caviar\" and heirloom tomato relish, Bloomsdale spinach, fried zucchini sticks and lemon marigold flowers. Photo courtesy of Maverick\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my favorite dishes from the new menu is the halibut cheek dish. Fried chicken is a crowd pleaser and I love it but it’s the least challenging dish on the menu. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Things change a lot. I’m working on new dishes: roasted corn and ginger chowder, chicken agnolotti, and stuffed Italian frying peppers with house made fromage blanc. There’ll be a play on steak and eggs for the snack menu. We had a smoked egg, so I’m looking to do shredded beef jerky on top using the American technique of dried beef and then shredding it into a more Asian thing. I grew up eating shredded beef or shredded pork on my congee. It kind of melts and has a crunchy texture. It’s not like dog treat-style beef jerky. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is your guilty food pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nCrab rangoon. That’s lowbrow American Chinese food. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Mary Ladd profiles Chef Emmanuel Eng, who is the executive chef at Maverick restaurant in the Mission. Eng describes the inspiration and technique to creating food ash for his creative plates of food. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1342901590,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":21,"wordCount":1189},"headData":{"title":"Chef Profile: Maverick’s Emmanuel Eng | KQED","description":"Mary Ladd profiles Chef Emmanuel Eng, who is the executive chef at Maverick restaurant in the Mission. Eng describes the inspiration and technique to creating food ash for his creative plates of food. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"46148 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=46148","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/07/21/chef-profile-maverick%e2%80%99s-emmanel-eng/","disqusTitle":"Chef Profile: Maverick’s Emmanuel Eng","path":"/bayareabites/46148/chef-profile-maverick%e2%80%99s-emmanel-eng","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/400EngandYouks-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/400EngandYouks-new.jpg\" alt=\"Chefs Emmanuel Eng and Scott Youkilis. photo courtesy of Maverick\" title=\"Chefs Emmanuel Eng and Scott Youkilis. photo courtesy of Maverick\" width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46156\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chefs Emmanuel Eng and Scott Youkilis. Photo courtesy of Maverick\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s a petite-sized spot, yet shows mighty potential. \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfmaverick.com/\">Maverick restaurant\u003c/a> has spent the last seven years cranking out various forms of American food in the Mission -- at times high-brow and other times with more of a decidedly Southern and comfy bent. Owners Mike Pierce and executive chef Scott Youkilis brought on and promoted Emmanel Eng, 33, as executive chef in recent months. Eng’s artistic eye is clear in the refreshed menu and clean yet playfully creative plating style. He considers Nancy Oakes a big influencer and mentor in his culinary life and talked his way into a weekly stage that quickly led to full-time line cook work at Indigo restaurant. The Noe Valley resident cooked under Oakes at Boulevard, and has had stints at Sons & Daughters, Foreign Cinema, Quince and Aqua. Eng grew up in Portland, Oregon and studied at the Rhode Island School of Design. One of the reasons he was drawn to the Bay Area was to work for dot-coms (more on that soon) but cooking, a long-term girlfriend, bicycling and designing high-end bicycles are why he stayed. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites\u003c/strong> caught up with Eng via phone interview.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did you get interested in cooking?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI went to the Rhode Island School of Design so it’s hard to say how one led to the other. In high school I was really into design and art. The correlation was working with my hands, which helped me get into cooking. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Becoming a cook as a career was more a product of moving to San Francisco. During college I went to Sweden and was a backpacker. I got a job at a cafeteria: washing lettuce, slicing tomatoes, and making things like a 50-pound pile of mashed potatoes. It was not glamorous but it was fun. That put me in the world of food production: mundane food but I had to serve it. I found a lot of satisfaction seeing people enjoy and eat the food and liked having the “Jewish mom/Asian grandma” syndrome of wanting to take care of people. When I moved to San Francisco, I was doing design for a dot-com and was laid off. Since I was always eating at a lot of nice places, a friend said “Why not do a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stage_(cooking)\">stage\u003c/a>?” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I walked into Indigo and said, “I will work for free if you teach me.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Who is your mentor?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nNancy Oakes at Boulevard. I still stop by there to check in and see how she’s doing, how things are. That’s where I did most of my development. There’s that classic line cook mentality at other places of work your way up. Then you have that feeling that you’ve seen all you can see. I did that for a long time. When I got to Boulevard, I found it was a place that I really wanted to work, for five years. That’s not common for someone to stick around so long. After five years, it took me that long to say, ok, time for me to move away from line cook and Sous chef and take the leap to be chef de cuisine or open my own place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tell us more about doing your own place.\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI have thoughts about it all the time. What it’s going to be changes all the time. I wrote the business plan as a concept of what I want. My five year plan is to hopefully be chef-owner of a place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you have a significant other? How did you two meet?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy girlfriend Ann was a server at Boulevard. We didn’t get together until after she quit. We’ve been together five years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your favorite spots for food & drink in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.locandasf.com/\">Locanda\u003c/a>: I was there on Tuesday night. David Chang and a lot of people were there and it was fun. We were all chatting and hanging out. I go there pretty often for the Bucatini. I really love that the bartenders let me sit down and they create something. I may request something light and refreshing and say, \"It was hot in the kitchen today.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.koipalace.com/default.htm\">Koi Palace\u003c/a> for dim sum. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ritualroasters.com/\">Ritual Roasters\u003c/a> is where I go for coffee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/403Eng_Ash-new.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/403Eng_Ash-new.jpg\" alt=\"Burrata ashed with fig leaf ash, baby beets, Chioggia beet chips, black mission figs, pine nut and pine nut butter, charred fig leaf oil with French breakfast radishes.\" title=\"Burrata ashed with fig leaf ash, baby beets, Chioggia beet chips, black mission figs, pine nut and pine nut butter, charred fig leaf oil with French breakfast radishes.\" width=\"403\" height=\"403\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46157\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Burrata ashed with fig leaf ash, baby beets, Chioggia beet chips, black mission figs, pine nut and pine nut butter, charred fig leaf oil with French breakfast radishes. Photo courtesy of Maverick\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Happy seventh birthday, Maverick. What’s new at the restaurant?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI’ve been using ash [for the dish: burrata ashed with fig leaf ash, baby beets, Chioggia beet chips, black mission figs, pine nut and pine nut butter, charred fig leaf oil with French breakfast radishes]. For our spring version, the dish had corn ash, fiddlehead ferns and ramps. The original idea was to toast cornhusks until they’re nice and golden brown. Then I was going to make a sauce or foam. I hadn’t figured out what I was doing at that point. It smelled amazing so I put in the blender and it tasted like cocoa powder. Not bitter or burnt, and by accident. I was thinking of ash rind -- since there’s that goat cheese with a layer of ash. It makes sense -- in connection with how cheese is made and an ash rind burrata.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That evolved into a version with beets and figs, which was a combination of how \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/07/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson/\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a> at Coi took fig leaves and grilled them and turned into an oil. I copied him, because it was amazing. If corn husks burn so well, I wondered if fig leaves would. I knew someone who worked there, and I said “One day I’ll do this.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/560Eng_HalibutCheek.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/07/560Eng_HalibutCheek.jpg\" alt=\"halibut cheeks dusted in masa, saffron and zucchini bisque, castelvetrano olive caviar and heirloom tomato relish, bloomsdale spinach, fried zucchini sticks and lemon marigold flowers \" title=\"halibut cheeks dusted in masa, saffron and zucchini bisque, castelvetrano olive caviar and heirloom tomato relish, bloomsdale spinach, fried zucchini sticks and lemon marigold flowers \" width=\"560\" height=\"420\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-46165\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Halibut cheeks dusted in masa, saffron and zucchini bisque, castelvetrano olive \"caviar\" and heirloom tomato relish, Bloomsdale spinach, fried zucchini sticks and lemon marigold flowers. Photo courtesy of Maverick\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my favorite dishes from the new menu is the halibut cheek dish. Fried chicken is a crowd pleaser and I love it but it’s the least challenging dish on the menu. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Things change a lot. I’m working on new dishes: roasted corn and ginger chowder, chicken agnolotti, and stuffed Italian frying peppers with house made fromage blanc. There’ll be a play on steak and eggs for the snack menu. We had a smoked egg, so I’m looking to do shredded beef jerky on top using the American technique of dried beef and then shredding it into a more Asian thing. I grew up eating shredded beef or shredded pork on my congee. It kind of melts and has a crunchy texture. It’s not like dog treat-style beef jerky. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is your guilty food pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nCrab rangoon. That’s lowbrow American Chinese food. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/46148/chef-profile-maverick%e2%80%99s-emmanel-eng","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_1146","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_10615","bayareabites_409","bayareabites_3998","bayareabites_3999","bayareabites_10613","bayareabites_171","bayareabites_4003","bayareabites_10614"],"featImg":"bayareabites_46156","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_21921":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_21921","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"21921","score":null,"sort":[1295648617000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"bay-area-chefs-on-how-to-select-winter-produce-part-2","title":"Bay Area Chefs on How to Select Winter Produce, Part 2","publishDate":1295648617,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/evanrich500.jpg\" alt=\" Evan Rich from Coi at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\" Evan Rich from Coi at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21927\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Coi’s Evan Rich surveys Page mandarin oranges\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another sunny Saturday morning found us back at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com/farmers_market.php\">Ferry Plaza Farmers Market\u003c/a>, the secret weapon of San Francisco’s thoughtful, creative chefs. The Bay Area has a wide variety of interesting fruits and vegetables growing here and near year-round, and while we’re surrounded by it all the time, you’re not alone if you have little to no idea what to look for when picking produce. We tagged along with four local culinary artists on their morning run around the various farm stands to steal their valuable tips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/trevorogden500.jpg\" alt=\"Mission Beach Cafe Trevor Ogden sorts through parsnips. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"Mission Beach Cafe Trevor Ogden sorts through parsnips. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21932\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Mission Beach Café’s Trevor Ogden sorts through parsnips.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/parsnips500.jpg\" alt=\"parsnips at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"parsnips at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21933\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trevor Ogden, executive chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.missionbeachcafesf.com\">Mission Beach Café\u003c/a>, is currently accompanying his braised Prather Ranch lamb shank with a puree of baby parsnips, which he picks up from \u003ca href=\"http://www.heirloom-organic.com/\">Heirloom Organic Gardens\u003c/a>. When shopping for the root vegetable for home cooking, however, Ogden says size doesn’t really matter all that much.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“You can use both,” he advises. “Bigger can be better, but the little ones you don’t have to peel.” Look for clean, firm roots.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/louismaldonado500.jpg\" alt=\"Azizas Louis Maldonado looks at Romanesco broccoli. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"Azizas Louis Maldonado looks at Romanesco broccoli. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21936\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Aziza's Louis Maldonado looks at Romanesco broccoli.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/romanesco500.jpg\" alt=\"Romanesco broccoli at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"Romanesco broccoli at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21937\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Louis Maldonado, chef de cuisine at \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com\">Aziza\u003c/a>, enjoys working with Romanesco broccoli, which he prizes for its trimmings even more than the crowns. Sometimes he’ll even purchase them separately, often from \u003ca href=\"http://www.dirtygirlproduce.com\">Dirty Girl Produce\u003c/a>. The trimmings work well for him because he doesn’t have to blanch or otherwise prepare some big hunk of broccoli. We’ve always stumbled around and picked huge, fat crowns, but it turns out that’s not a great strategy. Maldonado instead looks for really small crowns and roasts them whole with anchovies, lemon, parsley, and olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“When they get bigger, it kind of takes the special [qualities] away, so we just try to go for smaller ones,” he says. “The stuff they don’t make money on, we try to buy.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/gustavoromero500.jpg\" alt=\" Credos Gustavo Romero ponders the best purple kohlrabi. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\" Credos Gustavo Romero ponders the best purple kohlrabi. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21941\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Credo’s Gustavo Romero ponders the best purple kohlrabi.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/kohlrabi500.jpg\" alt=\"purple kohlrabi at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"purple kohlrabi at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21942\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Purple kohlrabi is big and scary looking, not the sort of vegetable that timid chefs would take a chance on, but Gustavo Romero, executive chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.credosf.com\">Credo\u003c/a>, makes it sound versatile and easy to use. \u003ca href=\"http://www.heirloom-organic.com/\">Heirloom Organic Gardens\u003c/a> is sporting big, beautiful specimens of this traditionally Lebanese, cabbage-like veggie right now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“All the stuff they bring here is good quality,” notes Romero as we walk back towards the stand and spot the purple beasts. He picks up a few that are bigger, with cleaner white spots. “For the restaurant, I like to use the larger ones to mash them, because it’s easier and you spend less time doing it. In root vegetables, I don’t think the size especially matters unless you’re talking about carrots, because baby carrots have a lot more flavor.” Credo currently cooks a fish in parchment paper with root vegetables, including kohlrabi. He also loves to boil them and use them in a puree for a great consistency.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Kohlrabi is great steamed in a stew with potatoes, carrots, and a chicken; it’s also great as a crudité or shredded like a cole slaw, skin and all,” adds Heirloom Organic farmer Dave Jamrock.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/mandarin500.jpg\" alt=\"Page mandarin orange at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"Page mandarin orange at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21929\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Page mandarin orange\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many of his colleagues, Evan Rich, chef de cuisine at \u003ca href=\"http://www.coirestaurant.com\">Coi\u003c/a>, heads to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_39.php\">Hamada Farms\u003c/a> stand for citrus. Right now, the Page mandarin oranges at Hamada are really good. He uses the juice for a play on a mandarin sour cocktail: Frozen mandarin ice with mandarin vodka jelly and a frozen meringue flavored with Angostura bitters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He looks for a fruit that weighs a little bit, and says the color of the skin is important: If it’s more vibrant and darkly hued, the juice will probably be sweeter and more concentrated. He also suggests holding one in each hand; the heavier one will produce more juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hamada is a reliable source, but Rich will often go the extra step to research the weather conditions around the various farms to figure out which ones might be producing the fruit with the most and most flavorful juice at the moment and then do a taste test at the stands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“At Coi, that’s the kind of intensity we have with the ingredients,” he says. “It’s very important about taste and freshness. With fresh ingredients, there’s like an energy — it’s hard to explain, but it’s like there’s something that you can’t even notice, but it’s a subconscious thing that you just realize it’s better. And that’s why I come here.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Previously:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/12/31/bay-area-chefs-on-how-to-select-winter-produce/\">Bay Area Chefs on Winter Produce\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Another sunny Saturday morning found us back at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, the secret weapon of San Francisco’s thoughtful, creative chefs. The Bay Area has a wide variety of interesting fruits and vegetables growing here and near year-round, and while we’re surrounded by it all the time, you’re not alone if you have little to no idea what to look for when picking produce. We tagged along with four local culinary artists on their morning run around the various farm stands to steal their valuable tips.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1295648617,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":821},"headData":{"title":"Bay Area Chefs on How to Select Winter Produce, Part 2 | KQED","description":"Another sunny Saturday morning found us back at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, the secret weapon of San Francisco’s thoughtful, creative chefs. The Bay Area has a wide variety of interesting fruits and vegetables growing here and near year-round, and while we’re surrounded by it all the time, you’re not alone if you have little to no idea what to look for when picking produce. We tagged along with four local culinary artists on their morning run around the various farm stands to steal their valuable tips.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"21921 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=21921","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/21/bay-area-chefs-on-how-to-select-winter-produce-part-2/","disqusTitle":"Bay Area Chefs on How to Select Winter Produce, Part 2","path":"/bayareabites/21921/bay-area-chefs-on-how-to-select-winter-produce-part-2","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/evanrich500.jpg\" alt=\" Evan Rich from Coi at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\" Evan Rich from Coi at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21927\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Coi’s Evan Rich surveys Page mandarin oranges\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another sunny Saturday morning found us back at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com/farmers_market.php\">Ferry Plaza Farmers Market\u003c/a>, the secret weapon of San Francisco’s thoughtful, creative chefs. The Bay Area has a wide variety of interesting fruits and vegetables growing here and near year-round, and while we’re surrounded by it all the time, you’re not alone if you have little to no idea what to look for when picking produce. We tagged along with four local culinary artists on their morning run around the various farm stands to steal their valuable tips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/trevorogden500.jpg\" alt=\"Mission Beach Cafe Trevor Ogden sorts through parsnips. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"Mission Beach Cafe Trevor Ogden sorts through parsnips. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21932\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Mission Beach Café’s Trevor Ogden sorts through parsnips.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/parsnips500.jpg\" alt=\"parsnips at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"parsnips at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21933\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trevor Ogden, executive chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.missionbeachcafesf.com\">Mission Beach Café\u003c/a>, is currently accompanying his braised Prather Ranch lamb shank with a puree of baby parsnips, which he picks up from \u003ca href=\"http://www.heirloom-organic.com/\">Heirloom Organic Gardens\u003c/a>. When shopping for the root vegetable for home cooking, however, Ogden says size doesn’t really matter all that much.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“You can use both,” he advises. “Bigger can be better, but the little ones you don’t have to peel.” Look for clean, firm roots.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/louismaldonado500.jpg\" alt=\"Azizas Louis Maldonado looks at Romanesco broccoli. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"Azizas Louis Maldonado looks at Romanesco broccoli. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21936\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Aziza's Louis Maldonado looks at Romanesco broccoli.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/romanesco500.jpg\" alt=\"Romanesco broccoli at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"Romanesco broccoli at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21937\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Louis Maldonado, chef de cuisine at \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com\">Aziza\u003c/a>, enjoys working with Romanesco broccoli, which he prizes for its trimmings even more than the crowns. Sometimes he’ll even purchase them separately, often from \u003ca href=\"http://www.dirtygirlproduce.com\">Dirty Girl Produce\u003c/a>. The trimmings work well for him because he doesn’t have to blanch or otherwise prepare some big hunk of broccoli. We’ve always stumbled around and picked huge, fat crowns, but it turns out that’s not a great strategy. Maldonado instead looks for really small crowns and roasts them whole with anchovies, lemon, parsley, and olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“When they get bigger, it kind of takes the special [qualities] away, so we just try to go for smaller ones,” he says. “The stuff they don’t make money on, we try to buy.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/gustavoromero500.jpg\" alt=\" Credos Gustavo Romero ponders the best purple kohlrabi. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\" Credos Gustavo Romero ponders the best purple kohlrabi. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21941\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Credo’s Gustavo Romero ponders the best purple kohlrabi.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/kohlrabi500.jpg\" alt=\"purple kohlrabi at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"purple kohlrabi at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21942\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Purple kohlrabi is big and scary looking, not the sort of vegetable that timid chefs would take a chance on, but Gustavo Romero, executive chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.credosf.com\">Credo\u003c/a>, makes it sound versatile and easy to use. \u003ca href=\"http://www.heirloom-organic.com/\">Heirloom Organic Gardens\u003c/a> is sporting big, beautiful specimens of this traditionally Lebanese, cabbage-like veggie right now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“All the stuff they bring here is good quality,” notes Romero as we walk back towards the stand and spot the purple beasts. He picks up a few that are bigger, with cleaner white spots. “For the restaurant, I like to use the larger ones to mash them, because it’s easier and you spend less time doing it. In root vegetables, I don’t think the size especially matters unless you’re talking about carrots, because baby carrots have a lot more flavor.” Credo currently cooks a fish in parchment paper with root vegetables, including kohlrabi. He also loves to boil them and use them in a puree for a great consistency.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Kohlrabi is great steamed in a stew with potatoes, carrots, and a chicken; it’s also great as a crudité or shredded like a cole slaw, skin and all,” adds Heirloom Organic farmer Dave Jamrock.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/mandarin500.jpg\" alt=\"Page mandarin orange at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"Page mandarin orange at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21929\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Page mandarin orange\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many of his colleagues, Evan Rich, chef de cuisine at \u003ca href=\"http://www.coirestaurant.com\">Coi\u003c/a>, heads to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_39.php\">Hamada Farms\u003c/a> stand for citrus. Right now, the Page mandarin oranges at Hamada are really good. He uses the juice for a play on a mandarin sour cocktail: Frozen mandarin ice with mandarin vodka jelly and a frozen meringue flavored with Angostura bitters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He looks for a fruit that weighs a little bit, and says the color of the skin is important: If it’s more vibrant and darkly hued, the juice will probably be sweeter and more concentrated. He also suggests holding one in each hand; the heavier one will produce more juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hamada is a reliable source, but Rich will often go the extra step to research the weather conditions around the various farms to figure out which ones might be producing the fruit with the most and most flavorful juice at the moment and then do a taste test at the stands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“At Coi, that’s the kind of intensity we have with the ingredients,” he says. “It’s very important about taste and freshness. With fresh ingredients, there’s like an energy — it’s hard to explain, but it’s like there’s something that you can’t even notice, but it’s a subconscious thing that you just realize it’s better. And that’s why I come here.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Previously:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/12/31/bay-area-chefs-on-how-to-select-winter-produce/\">Bay Area Chefs on Winter Produce\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/21921/bay-area-chefs-on-how-to-select-winter-produce-part-2","authors":["5111"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_95","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_595","bayareabites_3998","bayareabites_8850","bayareabites_8845","bayareabites_8846","bayareabites_500","bayareabites_8851","bayareabites_8673","bayareabites_2053","bayareabites_8848","bayareabites_8561","bayareabites_3539","bayareabites_667","bayareabites_8849","bayareabites_8847","bayareabites_8844"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_20986":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_20986","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"20986","score":null,"sort":[1294432749000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson","title":"Food Secrets of Chef/Restaurateur/Writer Daniel Patterson","publishDate":1294432749,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/daniel-patterson.jpg\" alt=\"Daniel Patterson Photo by Michele Hood\" title=\"Daniel Patterson Photo by Michele Hood\" width=\"500\" height=\"494\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20987\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo Credit: Michele Hood\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/dcpatterson\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a> is a self-taught chef well known to eaters and readers for his food, expanding Bay Area restaurant group, and writing. His fine dining \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi Restaurant\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/coirestaurant\">@coirestaurant\u003c/a>) opened in 2006 in San Francisco, and won two Michelin stars in 2008. Frank Bruni of the New York Times named Coi as a top ten new restaurant outside of New York, and the San Francisco Chronicle awarded Coi four stars. Patterson opened a more casual concept called \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/canerossosf\">Il Cane Rosso\u003c/a> in the Ferry Building in 2009. \u003ca href=\"http://plumoakland.com/\">Plum\u003c/a> opened in Oakland last year. On December 1st, Patterson reported on his Twitter feed that he was the soup cook \"at least for a little while\" for the Plum lunch debut. \u003cem>Bay Area Bites\u003c/em> caught up with Patterson soon after that via phone interview.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1994 Patterson opened \u003cstrong>Babette's\u003c/strong>, his first restaurant, in Sonoma, at the age of 25. Soon after, Food & Wine Magazine named him \"Best New Chef\" in 1997 and San Francisco Focus awarded him the title of \"Rising Star Chef\" the same year. In 2000, Daniel opened \u003cstrong>Elisabeth Daniel\u003c/strong> in San Francisco, which was nominated \"Best New Restaurant\" by the James Beard Foundation in 2001. He was named \"Chef of the Year\" by San Francisco Magazine in 2007.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With natural perfumer \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/AftelierPerfume\">Mandy Aftel\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://www.aftelier.com/\">aftelier.com\u003c/a>), he wrote \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Aroma-Magic-Essential-Foods-Fragrance/dp/1579652646/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1294430027&sr=8-1\">Aroma: the Magic of Essential Oils in Food and Fragrance\u003c/a>\" in 2004. His bio says that \"It was the first cookbook to explain the use of essential oils in cooking and the connection of the sense of smell to emotion and memory in this context.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patterson reported that he and his family cook at home \"a lot\" and that he and his wife used to go out much more often before they had a child. And yes, his young son loves to eat chicken skin. As for his food favorites, Patterson paused. \"I'm not that kinda guy. I order what I'm in the mood for. It doesn't typically follow patterns.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>THE WISH LIST\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPatterson wants to visit these restaurants and said it's \"My wish list, for when I get a day off\":\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://flourandwater.com/\">Flour & Water\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthsf.com/\">Commonwealth\u003c/a>: \"I've never been.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.frances-sf.com/\">Frances\u003c/a>: \"Unbelievably, I've never been there.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>FAMILY TIME\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe chef and his wife like to dine out near their home in the the East Bay. \"Most of the places we go our geared to (our son).\" First stops are courtesy of Charlie Hallowell: \"Usually, we get pizza from \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzaiolooakland.com/\">Pizzaiolo\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.bootandshoeservice.com/\">Boot & Shoe\u003c/a>. I love their salads, and love the drinks at both... the Pizzaiolo head bartender is terrific.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another family stop: Russell & Allison Moore's \u003ca href=\"http://www.caminorestaurant.com/\">Camino Restaurant\u003c/a>, which \"is geographically close to where we live.\" Patterson will generally order \"whatever they have on the menu.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the City, Patterson's first outing of choice is the Cal-Med-Moroccan fine dining hotspot \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a>, run by Chef Mourad Lahlou: \"Let (Chef) Mourad cook.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up are organic wood-fired comfort food at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a> and organic-sustainable Mexican food with a local bent at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopalitosf.com/\">Nopalito\u003c/a>. Patterson said both restaurants are \"sensational.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Southern-Italian food and wine, \u003ca href=\"http://www.a16sf.com/%20\">A16\u003c/a> is another San Francisco favorite. \"We used to live around the corner… we don't go to the city so much anymore.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SWEETS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.bluebottlecoffee.net/locations/kiosk/\">James Freeman's Blue Bottle\u003c/a> \"has an incredible space in the middle of the city. Cakes too. It's really special.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patterson enjoys eating Humphry Slocombe ice cream. Humphry's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/12/food-secrets-of-humphry-slocombes-jake-godby-sean-vahey/\">Jake Godby\u003c/a> used to do pastry work at Coi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.junetaylorjams.com/\">June Taylor Preserves\u003c/a> hit the sweet spot: \"We always have some of these at home.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>DRINKS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a> \"is fantastic. Thad Vogler is a favorite.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I love the drinks at \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a>. Eric Atkins has been there a long time. He'll make stuff and it's always amazing.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ON READING\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHaving a family and running three restaurants seem to leave Patterson with little free time. He said that \"I've done a lot of \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/09/daniel_patterson_learns_new_yo.php\">book events\u003c/a> this year. Reading time is nonexistent. I work from eight in the morning to midnight. (So) I read in concentrated bursts. Or to research.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He did cite \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/10/harold_mcgee_talks_food_scienc.php\">Harold McGee\u003c/a>'s new \u003ca href=\"http://www.curiouscook.com/cook/home.php\">Keys to Good Cooking: A Guide to Making the Best of Foods and Recipes\u003c/a> book (The Penguin Press, $35), calling it \"fantastic.\" Daniel has written for the \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Food & Wine\u003c/em>, \u003cem>London Financial Times\u003c/em> and \u003cem>San Francisco Magazine\u003c/em>. Readers can look forward to Patterson's second book, which he is currently working on. It will be a Coi cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Daniel Patterson is a self-taught chef well known to eaters and readers for his food, expanding Bay Area restaurant group, and writing. His fine dining Coi Restaurant opened in 2006 in San Francisco, and won two Michelin stars in 2008. Frank Bruni of the New York Times named Coi as a top ten new restaurant outside of New York, and the San Francisco Chronicle awarded Coi four stars. Patterson opened a more casual concept called Il Cane Rosso in the Ferry Building in 2009. Plum opened in Oakland last year. On December 1st, Patterson reported on his Twitter feed that he was the soup cook \"at least for a little while\" for the Plum lunch debut. \u003cem>Bay Area Bites\u003c/em> caught up with Patterson soon after that via phone interview.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1294438759,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":762},"headData":{"title":"Food Secrets of Chef/Restaurateur/Writer Daniel Patterson | KQED","description":"Daniel Patterson is a self-taught chef well known to eaters and readers for his food, expanding Bay Area restaurant group, and writing. His fine dining Coi Restaurant opened in 2006 in San Francisco, and won two Michelin stars in 2008. Frank Bruni of the New York Times named Coi as a top ten new restaurant outside of New York, and the San Francisco Chronicle awarded Coi four stars. Patterson opened a more casual concept called Il Cane Rosso in the Ferry Building in 2009. Plum opened in Oakland last year. On December 1st, Patterson reported on his Twitter feed that he was the soup cook "at least for a little while" for the Plum lunch debut. Bay Area Bites caught up with Patterson soon after that via phone interview.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"20986 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=20986","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/07/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson/","disqusTitle":"Food Secrets of Chef/Restaurateur/Writer Daniel Patterson","path":"/bayareabites/20986/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/daniel-patterson.jpg\" alt=\"Daniel Patterson Photo by Michele Hood\" title=\"Daniel Patterson Photo by Michele Hood\" width=\"500\" height=\"494\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20987\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo Credit: Michele Hood\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/dcpatterson\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a> is a self-taught chef well known to eaters and readers for his food, expanding Bay Area restaurant group, and writing. His fine dining \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi Restaurant\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/coirestaurant\">@coirestaurant\u003c/a>) opened in 2006 in San Francisco, and won two Michelin stars in 2008. Frank Bruni of the New York Times named Coi as a top ten new restaurant outside of New York, and the San Francisco Chronicle awarded Coi four stars. Patterson opened a more casual concept called \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/canerossosf\">Il Cane Rosso\u003c/a> in the Ferry Building in 2009. \u003ca href=\"http://plumoakland.com/\">Plum\u003c/a> opened in Oakland last year. On December 1st, Patterson reported on his Twitter feed that he was the soup cook \"at least for a little while\" for the Plum lunch debut. \u003cem>Bay Area Bites\u003c/em> caught up with Patterson soon after that via phone interview.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1994 Patterson opened \u003cstrong>Babette's\u003c/strong>, his first restaurant, in Sonoma, at the age of 25. Soon after, Food & Wine Magazine named him \"Best New Chef\" in 1997 and San Francisco Focus awarded him the title of \"Rising Star Chef\" the same year. In 2000, Daniel opened \u003cstrong>Elisabeth Daniel\u003c/strong> in San Francisco, which was nominated \"Best New Restaurant\" by the James Beard Foundation in 2001. He was named \"Chef of the Year\" by San Francisco Magazine in 2007.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With natural perfumer \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/AftelierPerfume\">Mandy Aftel\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://www.aftelier.com/\">aftelier.com\u003c/a>), he wrote \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Aroma-Magic-Essential-Foods-Fragrance/dp/1579652646/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1294430027&sr=8-1\">Aroma: the Magic of Essential Oils in Food and Fragrance\u003c/a>\" in 2004. His bio says that \"It was the first cookbook to explain the use of essential oils in cooking and the connection of the sense of smell to emotion and memory in this context.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patterson reported that he and his family cook at home \"a lot\" and that he and his wife used to go out much more often before they had a child. And yes, his young son loves to eat chicken skin. As for his food favorites, Patterson paused. \"I'm not that kinda guy. I order what I'm in the mood for. It doesn't typically follow patterns.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>THE WISH LIST\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPatterson wants to visit these restaurants and said it's \"My wish list, for when I get a day off\":\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://flourandwater.com/\">Flour & Water\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthsf.com/\">Commonwealth\u003c/a>: \"I've never been.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.frances-sf.com/\">Frances\u003c/a>: \"Unbelievably, I've never been there.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>FAMILY TIME\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe chef and his wife like to dine out near their home in the the East Bay. \"Most of the places we go our geared to (our son).\" First stops are courtesy of Charlie Hallowell: \"Usually, we get pizza from \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzaiolooakland.com/\">Pizzaiolo\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.bootandshoeservice.com/\">Boot & Shoe\u003c/a>. I love their salads, and love the drinks at both... the Pizzaiolo head bartender is terrific.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another family stop: Russell & Allison Moore's \u003ca href=\"http://www.caminorestaurant.com/\">Camino Restaurant\u003c/a>, which \"is geographically close to where we live.\" Patterson will generally order \"whatever they have on the menu.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the City, Patterson's first outing of choice is the Cal-Med-Moroccan fine dining hotspot \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a>, run by Chef Mourad Lahlou: \"Let (Chef) Mourad cook.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up are organic wood-fired comfort food at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a> and organic-sustainable Mexican food with a local bent at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopalitosf.com/\">Nopalito\u003c/a>. Patterson said both restaurants are \"sensational.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Southern-Italian food and wine, \u003ca href=\"http://www.a16sf.com/%20\">A16\u003c/a> is another San Francisco favorite. \"We used to live around the corner… we don't go to the city so much anymore.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SWEETS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.bluebottlecoffee.net/locations/kiosk/\">James Freeman's Blue Bottle\u003c/a> \"has an incredible space in the middle of the city. Cakes too. It's really special.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patterson enjoys eating Humphry Slocombe ice cream. Humphry's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/12/food-secrets-of-humphry-slocombes-jake-godby-sean-vahey/\">Jake Godby\u003c/a> used to do pastry work at Coi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.junetaylorjams.com/\">June Taylor Preserves\u003c/a> hit the sweet spot: \"We always have some of these at home.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>DRINKS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a> \"is fantastic. Thad Vogler is a favorite.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I love the drinks at \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a>. Eric Atkins has been there a long time. He'll make stuff and it's always amazing.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ON READING\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHaving a family and running three restaurants seem to leave Patterson with little free time. He said that \"I've done a lot of \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/09/daniel_patterson_learns_new_yo.php\">book events\u003c/a> this year. Reading time is nonexistent. I work from eight in the morning to midnight. (So) I read in concentrated bursts. Or to research.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He did cite \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/10/harold_mcgee_talks_food_scienc.php\">Harold McGee\u003c/a>'s new \u003ca href=\"http://www.curiouscook.com/cook/home.php\">Keys to Good Cooking: A Guide to Making the Best of Foods and Recipes\u003c/a> book (The Penguin Press, $35), calling it \"fantastic.\" Daniel has written for the \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Food & Wine\u003c/em>, \u003cem>London Financial Times\u003c/em> and \u003cem>San Francisco Magazine\u003c/em>. Readers can look forward to Patterson's second book, which he is currently working on. It will be a Coi cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/20986/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_595","bayareabites_8789","bayareabites_8472","bayareabites_3367","bayareabites_3998","bayareabites_3999","bayareabites_8521","bayareabites_14773","bayareabites_8399","bayareabites_8790","bayareabites_219","bayareabites_4030","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_8302","bayareabites_8785"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_18893":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_18893","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"18893","score":null,"sort":[1290196919000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"food-secrets-of-deanie-hickox","title":"Food Secrets of Deanie Hickox","publishDate":1290196919,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/deanie500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/deanie500.jpg\" alt=\"deanie hickox\" title=\"deanie hickox\" width=\"500\" height=\"331\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18896\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hickox in NYC at Food & Wine Magazine’s pop up restaurant in September 2009\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pastry chef \u003cstrong>Deanie Hickox\u003c/strong> is known to Northern California diners for her work at \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ubuntunapa.com/\">Ubuntu\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfrubicon.com/\">Rubicon\u003c/a> and her current post, \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>. This year, Hickox received a \u003ca href=\"http://www.examiner.com/budget-living-in-national/james-beard-2010-best-pastry-chef-nominee-deanie-hickox-fox-cheese-pie-recipe\">semi-finalist nomination\u003c/a> for the coveted \u003ca href=\"http://www.jamesbeard.org/files/2010_SEMIFINALISTS_FINAL.pdf\">James Beard 2010 Outstanding Pastry Chef award\u003c/a>. She worked with Jeremy Fox at Ubuntu and Manresa. The two were married but \u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/2010/02/fox_alert_deanie_fox_resurface.html\">parted ways\u003c/a> after Ubuntu. Her Beard nomination was for her work at Ubuntu in Napa. She is a grad of the San Francisco California Culinary Academy pastry program, and was a \u003ca href=\"http://articles.sfgate.com/2008-03-05/food/17167530_1_kitchen-vegetables-pastry\">2008 San Francisco Chronicle Rising Star Chef\u003c/a>, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.sanfranmag.com/story/2008-best-chef-awards\">2008 Best Pastry Chef\u003c/a> and a \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/rising_stars/2009/napa_sonoma/bio_deanie_hickox_fox.shtml\">2009 Napa Sonoma Rising Star Pastry Chef\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hickox's picks cover Santa Cruz, Sonoma, and Napa, with some good finds in between. Her comments have been edited for length.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>THE CHEF CONNECTION\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI have to admit I am biased when it comes to where I like to eat on my days off. I really enjoy eating at places where my friends are the chefs. I'm fortunate enough to know some really talented people so I eat very well! \u003ca href=\"http://commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/food.html\">Aziza\u003c/a> definitely top the list. And two of the best meals I had this year were at \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonnydoonvineyard.com/cellar_door_cafe/\">Cellar Door at Bonny Doon\u003c/a> in Santa Cruz where my old friend, Charlie Parker, was the chef. He'll be moving on to \u003ca href=\"http://www.plumoakland.com/\">Plum\u003c/a> in Oakland soon so I'm really looking forward to eating there once he's settled.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the restaurants I'm most excited about hasn't even opened yet...\u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Sausalito-CA/Plate-Shop/117795184905888?v=wall\">Plate Shop\u003c/a> in Sausalito. Kim Alter is a rock-star... she's definitely one to watch and I can't wait to see all her hard work pay off. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>IT WAS SO GOOD…\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSome random favorites: \u003ca href=\"http://www.gochifusiontapas.com/menu.html\">Gochi\u003c/a> is an Izakaya-style restaurant located in a non-descript strip mall in Cupertino. I love their potato gratin with cod roe and the clay pot rice dishes...it has a pretty extensive menu so it's a great place to go with a large group and sample a bit of everything. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm still dreaming about a lardo pizza I had a couple of weeks ago at \u003ca href=\"http://www.oenotri.com/\">Oenotri\u003c/a> in downtown Napa. It was so good I ate one and then immediately ordered another. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>HAPPY HOUR\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFavorite local drinking spot would be \u003ca href=\"http://www.15romolo.com/\">15 Romolo\u003c/a> in North Beach. It's a few blocks from work so it's an ideal place to start the weekend...and I have a little bit of a crush on the chicken wings and the Pimm's Cup with tequila. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>MOM & POP SPOTS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI am currently obsessed with the \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/the-fremont-diner-sonoma\">Fremont Diner\u003c/a> in Sonoma. I have to go there ever time I return to Napa. It's the kind of incredibly charming roadside, country spot that is really hard to come by these days. The food is exactly what I want to eat on my days off...non-fussy, comforting dishes made with great ingredients and care. I could wax poetic about the biscuits with ham, homemade jam and mustard. Or the chicken & waffles. And the mac & cheese. Not to mention the milkshakes served in Mason jars. I haven't tried the caramel cake or the fried pies, but they look amazing so they are definitely next on my list. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I currently live in Campbell so I have a few favorite places in the South Bay. I'm a big fan of \u003ca href=\"http://www.falafelsdrivein.com/\">Falafel's Drive In\u003c/a>, which has been owned and operated by the same family in San Jose since 1966. The large falafel sandwich with a banana milkshake is my go-to cheap eat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think one of the best-kept secrets in the Bay Area is \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/stans-donut-shop-santa-clara\">Stan's Donut Shop\u003c/a> in Santa Clara. It's been around forever--possibly since the 50s--and hasn't changed one bit or lost its old-school vibe. They are ridiculously busy so the doughnuts are always fresh and still warm ever time I get one. I swear I haven't had a better doughnut anywhere in the entire country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>GUILTY PLEASURE\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"My guiltiest local food pleasure would definitely be the glazed doughnuts from Stan's. I rarely crave or eat sweets, but this is something I never say no to.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Pastry chef Deanie Hickox is known to Northern California diners for her work at Manresa, Ubuntu, Rubicon and her current post, Coi. This year, Hickox received a semi-finalist nomination for the coveted James Beard 2010 Outstanding Pastry Chef award. She worked with Jeremy Fox at Ubuntu and Manresa. The two were married but parted ways after Ubuntu. Her Beard nomination was from her work at Ubuntu in Napa. She is a grad of the San Francisco California Culinary Academy pastry program, and was a 2008 San Francisco Chronicle Rising Star Chef, a 2008 Best Pastry Chef and a 2009 Napa Sonoma Rising Star Pastry Chef.\r\nHickox's picks cover Santa Cruz, Sonoma, and Napa, with some good finds in between. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1290199404,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":15,"wordCount":722},"headData":{"title":"Food Secrets of Deanie Hickox | KQED","description":"Pastry chef Deanie Hickox is known to Northern California diners for her work at Manresa, Ubuntu, Rubicon and her current post, Coi. This year, Hickox received a semi-finalist nomination for the coveted James Beard 2010 Outstanding Pastry Chef award. She worked with Jeremy Fox at Ubuntu and Manresa. The two were married but parted ways after Ubuntu. Her Beard nomination was from her work at Ubuntu in Napa. She is a grad of the San Francisco California Culinary Academy pastry program, and was a 2008 San Francisco Chronicle Rising Star Chef, a 2008 Best Pastry Chef and a 2009 Napa Sonoma Rising Star Pastry Chef.\r\nHickox's picks cover Santa Cruz, Sonoma, and Napa, with some good finds in between. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"18893 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=18893","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/19/food-secrets-of-deanie-hickox/","disqusTitle":"Food Secrets of Deanie Hickox","path":"/bayareabites/18893/food-secrets-of-deanie-hickox","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/deanie500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/deanie500.jpg\" alt=\"deanie hickox\" title=\"deanie hickox\" width=\"500\" height=\"331\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18896\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hickox in NYC at Food & Wine Magazine’s pop up restaurant in September 2009\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pastry chef \u003cstrong>Deanie Hickox\u003c/strong> is known to Northern California diners for her work at \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ubuntunapa.com/\">Ubuntu\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfrubicon.com/\">Rubicon\u003c/a> and her current post, \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>. This year, Hickox received a \u003ca href=\"http://www.examiner.com/budget-living-in-national/james-beard-2010-best-pastry-chef-nominee-deanie-hickox-fox-cheese-pie-recipe\">semi-finalist nomination\u003c/a> for the coveted \u003ca href=\"http://www.jamesbeard.org/files/2010_SEMIFINALISTS_FINAL.pdf\">James Beard 2010 Outstanding Pastry Chef award\u003c/a>. She worked with Jeremy Fox at Ubuntu and Manresa. The two were married but \u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/2010/02/fox_alert_deanie_fox_resurface.html\">parted ways\u003c/a> after Ubuntu. Her Beard nomination was for her work at Ubuntu in Napa. She is a grad of the San Francisco California Culinary Academy pastry program, and was a \u003ca href=\"http://articles.sfgate.com/2008-03-05/food/17167530_1_kitchen-vegetables-pastry\">2008 San Francisco Chronicle Rising Star Chef\u003c/a>, a \u003ca href=\"http://www.sanfranmag.com/story/2008-best-chef-awards\">2008 Best Pastry Chef\u003c/a> and a \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/rising_stars/2009/napa_sonoma/bio_deanie_hickox_fox.shtml\">2009 Napa Sonoma Rising Star Pastry Chef\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hickox's picks cover Santa Cruz, Sonoma, and Napa, with some good finds in between. Her comments have been edited for length.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>THE CHEF CONNECTION\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI have to admit I am biased when it comes to where I like to eat on my days off. I really enjoy eating at places where my friends are the chefs. I'm fortunate enough to know some really talented people so I eat very well! \u003ca href=\"http://commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/food.html\">Aziza\u003c/a> definitely top the list. And two of the best meals I had this year were at \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonnydoonvineyard.com/cellar_door_cafe/\">Cellar Door at Bonny Doon\u003c/a> in Santa Cruz where my old friend, Charlie Parker, was the chef. He'll be moving on to \u003ca href=\"http://www.plumoakland.com/\">Plum\u003c/a> in Oakland soon so I'm really looking forward to eating there once he's settled.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the restaurants I'm most excited about hasn't even opened yet...\u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Sausalito-CA/Plate-Shop/117795184905888?v=wall\">Plate Shop\u003c/a> in Sausalito. Kim Alter is a rock-star... she's definitely one to watch and I can't wait to see all her hard work pay off. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>IT WAS SO GOOD…\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSome random favorites: \u003ca href=\"http://www.gochifusiontapas.com/menu.html\">Gochi\u003c/a> is an Izakaya-style restaurant located in a non-descript strip mall in Cupertino. I love their potato gratin with cod roe and the clay pot rice dishes...it has a pretty extensive menu so it's a great place to go with a large group and sample a bit of everything. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm still dreaming about a lardo pizza I had a couple of weeks ago at \u003ca href=\"http://www.oenotri.com/\">Oenotri\u003c/a> in downtown Napa. It was so good I ate one and then immediately ordered another. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>HAPPY HOUR\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFavorite local drinking spot would be \u003ca href=\"http://www.15romolo.com/\">15 Romolo\u003c/a> in North Beach. It's a few blocks from work so it's an ideal place to start the weekend...and I have a little bit of a crush on the chicken wings and the Pimm's Cup with tequila. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>MOM & POP SPOTS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI am currently obsessed with the \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/the-fremont-diner-sonoma\">Fremont Diner\u003c/a> in Sonoma. I have to go there ever time I return to Napa. It's the kind of incredibly charming roadside, country spot that is really hard to come by these days. The food is exactly what I want to eat on my days off...non-fussy, comforting dishes made with great ingredients and care. I could wax poetic about the biscuits with ham, homemade jam and mustard. Or the chicken & waffles. And the mac & cheese. Not to mention the milkshakes served in Mason jars. I haven't tried the caramel cake or the fried pies, but they look amazing so they are definitely next on my list. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I currently live in Campbell so I have a few favorite places in the South Bay. I'm a big fan of \u003ca href=\"http://www.falafelsdrivein.com/\">Falafel's Drive In\u003c/a>, which has been owned and operated by the same family in San Jose since 1966. The large falafel sandwich with a banana milkshake is my go-to cheap eat. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I think one of the best-kept secrets in the Bay Area is \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/stans-donut-shop-santa-clara\">Stan's Donut Shop\u003c/a> in Santa Clara. It's been around forever--possibly since the 50s--and hasn't changed one bit or lost its old-school vibe. They are ridiculously busy so the doughnuts are always fresh and still warm ever time I get one. I swear I haven't had a better doughnut anywhere in the entire country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>GUILTY PLEASURE\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"My guiltiest local food pleasure would definitely be the glazed doughnuts from Stan's. I rarely crave or eat sweets, but this is something I never say no to.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/18893/food-secrets-of-deanie-hickox","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_3998","bayareabites_8521","bayareabites_2983","bayareabites_3997","bayareabites_267","bayareabites_8522","bayareabites_2105"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_14132":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_14132","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"14132","score":null,"sort":[1276021056000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"moving-to-los-angeles","title":"Moving to Los Angeles","publishDate":1276021056,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/serranos-pizza.jpg\" alt=\"serranos pizza\" title=\"serranos pizza\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-14136\">In September, I'm moving to Los Angeles to go back to school. I'm not an L.A. person. I hate the Lakers, and I don't like driving. Huge, expansive, smog-clogged cities I can't wrap my head around make me want to stay home, not go out. That said, I'm warming up, doing my best. I'm fixing to buy a car and invest in less embarrassing sunglasses. A few days a week, I may even trade in my basketball high-tops for a wetsuit and a Costco surfboard. We'll see. I know Los Angeles is a special food city -- from Koreatown barbecue joints, to tamales at Grand Central Market, to Armenian chicken joint chains and Indian regional cuisine in Artesia. Immense, spread-out, far harder to make sense of, sort out, and \"get\" than San Francisco, a relatively tiny, practically universally food-obsessed, and media-rich place, Los Angeles poses challenges to a dedicated chaser of delicious things, particularly one accustomed to walking to his favorite restaurants. Still, if food doesn't get me out of the house, nothing will. I will be a hermit, confined to my desk, writing about whatever I see drifting past my window. I'm leaving San Francisco. I want to come back, I intend to, but I know, either way, its time for me to log a few years in a new setting. Perhaps doing so will make me appreciate this city even more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's nothing like leaving a place to make you want to make sure you know it before you go. For some people, that means tearing through favorite shops, haunting beloved beaches, and catching up with old friends. For me, that means eating. To that end, I've made a list of a few things I need to eat between now and September, dishes I associate with the eight years I've spent here. Importantly, I'm not eating in order to remember my favorite flavors (though I do that too). Instead, I'm trying to leave town only after taking stock of the time I've spent here, and for someone whose evolving eating habits keep time as well as any clock, keeping the hallmarks at the forefront of my mind simultaneously keep me connected to the people I've known and the places I've frequented. I'm not speaking of my favorite restaurants in San Francisco, the institutions, the destinations, the places I've gone to for special occasions. My fairly recent dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a> looms infinitely larger as a meal than the countless times I, as a lunch-breaking paralegal, bought a salad at \u003ca href=\"http://www.focacciacatering.com/\">Foccacia\u003c/a> on Sacramento St., but the fact I ate at Foccacia so often means I do have a lot of time tied up there, a period of my life, really, several years during which I ate one of the establishment's salads nearly once a week. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tasty as it is, \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/ti-couz-san-francisco\">Ti Couz\u003c/a>'s Salade de Maree is similarly not one of the best things I've eaten in San Francisco. It is, however, one of the first things I ate when I arrived. In late 2002, my roommate, a friend from college, and I would go there for brunch, sit outside, drink Bloody Marys, and munch through massive bowls of rice, greens, capers, grape tomatoes, tiny soft scallops, baby shrimp, hard-boiled eggs, cauliflower, green beans, and strips of seared tuna. The dressing was light and lemony. Some people wake up with coffee; I prefer alcohol and acidity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I think of the pizza I have enjoyed here, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzeriadelfina.com/\">Pizzeria Delfina \u003c/a> is tops, particularly a special pie with green garlic and speck they ran last Spring. Nonetheless, for every molten Panna and sweet, blistered Margherita I have downed at lovely lunches and dinners with friends and family, I've eaten a dozen slices without a hint of artisanal pretense at Serrano's. \u003ca href=\"http://www.serranospizza.com/\">Serrano's\u003c/a> sits on 21st, not far from Valencia. Until Fall of 2004, I lived a block away, on Valencia and 22nd, and during that time, the tiny take-out spot was my go-to: Long, floppy, free-form double-slices festooned with an infinitely customizable array of toppings and cooked to order. The routine -- stepping up, asking for a slice, and rattling off the toppings you want -- encourages ordering hubris -- say, extra garlic, spinach, barbecued chicken, corn, feta cheese...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2004 -- or was it 2005 -- I played my first show in San Francisco, a mid-week affair at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thehotelutahsaloon.com/\">Hotel Utah Saloon\u003c/a>. Over the next couple of years, I played the SoMa venue at least a half-dozen times. I liked -- and still like -- the bar's long, shiny bar, miniature balcony, and prow-like opening into the tiny music room, but a lot of what made playing the Utah so fun was having a bite before the show, specifically an excellent house-made veggie burger patty on a well-toasted bun with good, crispy fries. I associate the Utah's veggie burger with getting started playing music with my best friends in San Francisco, which makes it something to remember, even if I've had plenty of great real burgers on other occasions. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/taqueria-vallarta-san-francisco\">Taqueria Vallarta\u003c/a> made me switch from burritos to tacos, at least on occasion. Vallarta's tacos are tiny, inexpensive, and greasy, topped with concentrated, grill-stewed meats and soft onion strips cooked down to their essence. The meats are arranged in pinwheels along the inside of a silver, bowl-like surface. They bleed into each other, cabeza tangled up with chicken, chorizo mussing up the pastor. Tellingly, I don't think I've ever eaten these tacos for lunch or dinner, but for the three years I left at the edge of Potrero Hill, near General Hospital, they were the only snack I had. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like a lot of San Franciscans, I shop at farmer's markets, but I've never been devoted just out of a desire to obtain nice produce directly from farmers. A lot of why I love getting up early -- even before a morning basketball game -- to poke through the stalls at \u003ca href=\"http://sfgsa.org/index.aspx?page=1058\">Alemany\u003c/a> has to do with the ready-to-eat wares. Yes, Alemany's row of low-profile tents can't touch the Ferry Building's well-publicized armada of awnings, but the prices there are accordingly higher, the clientele less diverse, and the vibe generally tonier and less regular-feeling. When I started going to Alemany, I ate breakfast as I shopped. Usually -- still -- I buy a cold samosa from the Sukhi's stand, and gnaw at it as I rummage through bins for unpocked sweet potatoes and fresh-looking chard. It's never the most perfectly seasoned samosa I have eaten, but for me, it trumps any muffin in town. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I look back at this list I have just written and laugh. For someone who has dashed all over town to taste new things, my regular noshes don't stray far from where I've lived. I've been all over the Bay Area, but nearly all of my abodes have been in the Mission. Even as far as fairly inexpensive eats go, I've had great Thai at Lers Ros in the Tenderloin, amazing Lao in Oakland at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/vientian-cafe-oakland\">Vientian Cafe\u003c/a>, soup dumplings at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yanksing.com/home.php\">Yank Sing\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/shanghai-dumpling-king-san-francisco\">Shanghai Dumpling King\u003c/a> in the Richmond, a stunningly tasty torta ahogada at \u003ca href=\"http://tastingtable.com/entry_detail/sf/1550/The_best_torta_is_a_wet_one.htm\">Mi Barrio\u003c/a> in Fruitvale, and dosas at, well, \u003ca href=\"http://www.dosasf.com/\">Dosa\u003c/a>, but when it comes to making sense of what I associate with my time here, these five entries, mundane, largely forgettable, are the tastes that came to mind. Even if they don't reflect my favorites, they do reflect the person I've been -- busy, inclined to eat for convenience, often within a few strides of my apartment. When I started writing about food in 2008, I started eating better on a regular basis. The work hasn't been lucrative by any means, but I eat richly, which reminds me: That might be why I got into it in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"There's nothing like leaving a place to make you want to make sure you know it before you go. For some people, that means tearing through favorite shops, haunting beloved beaches, and catching up with old friends. For me, that means eating. To that end, I've made a list of a few things I need to eat between now and September, dishes I associate with the eight years I've spent here. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1276021138,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":10,"wordCount":1351},"headData":{"title":"Moving to Los Angeles | KQED","description":"There's nothing like leaving a place to make you want to make sure you know it before you go. For some people, that means tearing through favorite shops, haunting beloved beaches, and catching up with old friends. For me, that means eating. To that end, I've made a list of a few things I need to eat between now and September, dishes I associate with the eight years I've spent here. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"14132 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=14132","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/06/08/moving-to-los-angeles/","disqusTitle":"Moving to Los Angeles","path":"/bayareabites/14132/moving-to-los-angeles","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/serranos-pizza.jpg\" alt=\"serranos pizza\" title=\"serranos pizza\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-14136\">In September, I'm moving to Los Angeles to go back to school. I'm not an L.A. person. I hate the Lakers, and I don't like driving. Huge, expansive, smog-clogged cities I can't wrap my head around make me want to stay home, not go out. That said, I'm warming up, doing my best. I'm fixing to buy a car and invest in less embarrassing sunglasses. A few days a week, I may even trade in my basketball high-tops for a wetsuit and a Costco surfboard. We'll see. I know Los Angeles is a special food city -- from Koreatown barbecue joints, to tamales at Grand Central Market, to Armenian chicken joint chains and Indian regional cuisine in Artesia. Immense, spread-out, far harder to make sense of, sort out, and \"get\" than San Francisco, a relatively tiny, practically universally food-obsessed, and media-rich place, Los Angeles poses challenges to a dedicated chaser of delicious things, particularly one accustomed to walking to his favorite restaurants. Still, if food doesn't get me out of the house, nothing will. I will be a hermit, confined to my desk, writing about whatever I see drifting past my window. I'm leaving San Francisco. I want to come back, I intend to, but I know, either way, its time for me to log a few years in a new setting. Perhaps doing so will make me appreciate this city even more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's nothing like leaving a place to make you want to make sure you know it before you go. For some people, that means tearing through favorite shops, haunting beloved beaches, and catching up with old friends. For me, that means eating. To that end, I've made a list of a few things I need to eat between now and September, dishes I associate with the eight years I've spent here. Importantly, I'm not eating in order to remember my favorite flavors (though I do that too). Instead, I'm trying to leave town only after taking stock of the time I've spent here, and for someone whose evolving eating habits keep time as well as any clock, keeping the hallmarks at the forefront of my mind simultaneously keep me connected to the people I've known and the places I've frequented. I'm not speaking of my favorite restaurants in San Francisco, the institutions, the destinations, the places I've gone to for special occasions. My fairly recent dinner at \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a> looms infinitely larger as a meal than the countless times I, as a lunch-breaking paralegal, bought a salad at \u003ca href=\"http://www.focacciacatering.com/\">Foccacia\u003c/a> on Sacramento St., but the fact I ate at Foccacia so often means I do have a lot of time tied up there, a period of my life, really, several years during which I ate one of the establishment's salads nearly once a week. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tasty as it is, \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/ti-couz-san-francisco\">Ti Couz\u003c/a>'s Salade de Maree is similarly not one of the best things I've eaten in San Francisco. It is, however, one of the first things I ate when I arrived. In late 2002, my roommate, a friend from college, and I would go there for brunch, sit outside, drink Bloody Marys, and munch through massive bowls of rice, greens, capers, grape tomatoes, tiny soft scallops, baby shrimp, hard-boiled eggs, cauliflower, green beans, and strips of seared tuna. The dressing was light and lemony. Some people wake up with coffee; I prefer alcohol and acidity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I think of the pizza I have enjoyed here, \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzeriadelfina.com/\">Pizzeria Delfina \u003c/a> is tops, particularly a special pie with green garlic and speck they ran last Spring. Nonetheless, for every molten Panna and sweet, blistered Margherita I have downed at lovely lunches and dinners with friends and family, I've eaten a dozen slices without a hint of artisanal pretense at Serrano's. \u003ca href=\"http://www.serranospizza.com/\">Serrano's\u003c/a> sits on 21st, not far from Valencia. Until Fall of 2004, I lived a block away, on Valencia and 22nd, and during that time, the tiny take-out spot was my go-to: Long, floppy, free-form double-slices festooned with an infinitely customizable array of toppings and cooked to order. The routine -- stepping up, asking for a slice, and rattling off the toppings you want -- encourages ordering hubris -- say, extra garlic, spinach, barbecued chicken, corn, feta cheese...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2004 -- or was it 2005 -- I played my first show in San Francisco, a mid-week affair at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thehotelutahsaloon.com/\">Hotel Utah Saloon\u003c/a>. Over the next couple of years, I played the SoMa venue at least a half-dozen times. I liked -- and still like -- the bar's long, shiny bar, miniature balcony, and prow-like opening into the tiny music room, but a lot of what made playing the Utah so fun was having a bite before the show, specifically an excellent house-made veggie burger patty on a well-toasted bun with good, crispy fries. I associate the Utah's veggie burger with getting started playing music with my best friends in San Francisco, which makes it something to remember, even if I've had plenty of great real burgers on other occasions. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/taqueria-vallarta-san-francisco\">Taqueria Vallarta\u003c/a> made me switch from burritos to tacos, at least on occasion. Vallarta's tacos are tiny, inexpensive, and greasy, topped with concentrated, grill-stewed meats and soft onion strips cooked down to their essence. The meats are arranged in pinwheels along the inside of a silver, bowl-like surface. They bleed into each other, cabeza tangled up with chicken, chorizo mussing up the pastor. Tellingly, I don't think I've ever eaten these tacos for lunch or dinner, but for the three years I left at the edge of Potrero Hill, near General Hospital, they were the only snack I had. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like a lot of San Franciscans, I shop at farmer's markets, but I've never been devoted just out of a desire to obtain nice produce directly from farmers. A lot of why I love getting up early -- even before a morning basketball game -- to poke through the stalls at \u003ca href=\"http://sfgsa.org/index.aspx?page=1058\">Alemany\u003c/a> has to do with the ready-to-eat wares. Yes, Alemany's row of low-profile tents can't touch the Ferry Building's well-publicized armada of awnings, but the prices there are accordingly higher, the clientele less diverse, and the vibe generally tonier and less regular-feeling. When I started going to Alemany, I ate breakfast as I shopped. Usually -- still -- I buy a cold samosa from the Sukhi's stand, and gnaw at it as I rummage through bins for unpocked sweet potatoes and fresh-looking chard. It's never the most perfectly seasoned samosa I have eaten, but for me, it trumps any muffin in town. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I look back at this list I have just written and laugh. For someone who has dashed all over town to taste new things, my regular noshes don't stray far from where I've lived. I've been all over the Bay Area, but nearly all of my abodes have been in the Mission. Even as far as fairly inexpensive eats go, I've had great Thai at Lers Ros in the Tenderloin, amazing Lao in Oakland at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/vientian-cafe-oakland\">Vientian Cafe\u003c/a>, soup dumplings at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yanksing.com/home.php\">Yank Sing\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/shanghai-dumpling-king-san-francisco\">Shanghai Dumpling King\u003c/a> in the Richmond, a stunningly tasty torta ahogada at \u003ca href=\"http://tastingtable.com/entry_detail/sf/1550/The_best_torta_is_a_wet_one.htm\">Mi Barrio\u003c/a> in Fruitvale, and dosas at, well, \u003ca href=\"http://www.dosasf.com/\">Dosa\u003c/a>, but when it comes to making sense of what I associate with my time here, these five entries, mundane, largely forgettable, are the tastes that came to mind. Even if they don't reflect my favorites, they do reflect the person I've been -- busy, inclined to eat for convenience, often within a few strides of my apartment. When I started writing about food in 2008, I started eating better on a regular basis. The work hasn't been lucrative by any means, but I eat richly, which reminds me: That might be why I got into it in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/14132/moving-to-los-angeles","authors":["5060"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_3998","bayareabites_4190","bayareabites_4184","bayareabites_4186","bayareabites_182","bayareabites_4189","bayareabites_4181","bayareabites_14745","bayareabites_4185","bayareabites_4183","bayareabites_4187","bayareabites_4188","bayareabites_4182"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_13015":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_13015","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"13015","score":null,"sort":[1272989319000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"commis-is-crackin","title":"Commis is Crackin'","publishDate":1272989319,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>It all starts -- literally -- with the egg -- this post, a life, my recent meal at \u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>, a 10-month-old restaurant in Piedmont, Oakland. An egg is a pretty perfect way to begin dinner, especially when, in the case of an inspired amuse-bouche, it evokes breakfast: a poached yolk the color of a setting sun couched in an onion soup. A smear of pureed dates lurked below the surface. Tidy piles of chive clippings and crunchy steel-cut oats flanked the yolk. Even though most of my mornings start with a banana, a very early stumble down Capp Street, and a Gatorade after the gym, one bite made me think of a day beginning, a breakfast on nice plates in a room with a lot of sun and a view of a garden. From the toastiness of the oats, to the sweet, effusive jam-like quality of the dates, and the egg's richness, the elements reconfigured signifiers of breakfast without directly referencing the preparations I usually associate with the meal. It was highbrow, thoughtful, and slightly futuristic, though still comforting and cozy. The dish was what it was; whether or not my experience reflected the chef's intent was totally unimportant. I took about five minutes to eat less than two ounces of perfect lovely food, an Ice Age by my standards. Indeed, it was a very good start.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All dishes aim to satisfy. Some aim to challenge too, to make you think in the same way you're taught to pore over paintings, short stories, and films. To say chefs who cook for our brains as well as our bellies make art and not food is silly; food is a necessity, not a privilege, and the satisfaction we get from any food -- whether a carrot stick or an amuse-bouche prepared with a quarter-ton of expensive machinery -- begins with that need. That's what makes it so exciting, and kind of marvelous to behold, the continuum of agricultural and technological advances, cultural shifts, geographic realities, and economic changes that have taken us from raw mammoth to \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa\u003c/a> -- where Commis chef James Syhabout incidentally once toiled. The diner's role is much like that of a film or theater audience's. Participation is a function of showing up and consuming. Whether you detach and enjoy, or think about why everything is the way it is and why you're seeing it the way you're seeing it, your involvement reveals you. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/05/commis-halibut.jpg\" alt=\"halibut tartare with coriander snow at commis\" title=\"halibut tartare with coriander snow at commis\" width=\"500\" height=\"378\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13031\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Halibut tartare with coriander snow\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the halibut, which I ate after the egg. The menu listed local halibut tartare with ginger, Meyer lemon vinaigrette, coriander snow, pickled kelp, and sprouting radish. It came as a slippery translucent mass quivering on an over-sized white plate, delicious, squishy, sparkly, salty, gravelly things bobbing together; the \"snow\" was crumbles of coriandar-infused ice, crunching lightly and melting with each slurp. It was good as food, the flavors supremely balanced, harmonious, but it became magical because it captured my imagination. As I was enjoying it, I stopped thinking about halibut, ginger, a salad dressing -- the components that had been cut, prepped, and positioned on the plate -- and simply let myself eat surf. The aroma wafting above the plate was the air on a good beach, light and effervescent. My fork was like my seven-year-old feet on vacation, splashing through a tide pool in Northern Florida. I thought about the last time I went to the beach. It was a while ago, and I couldn't even remember when I'd been exactly, or what I'd done there. I live perilously close to the ocean, and yet I go to the beach three times a year, and even then only occasionally set foot in the water. After the halibut, that may change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With its modern sensibility and artful, gently \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Willy_Wonka\">Wonka\u003c/a>-esque approach to food, Commis feels like a lighter, brighter counterpart to Coi in San Francisco. A few months ago, I ate a magnificent meal at \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>. At the same time, the restaurant's dark and shadowy digs, stiff be-suited waiters with hushed voices purring all around, and plaintive indie-folk jams emanating ever so lushly from unseen stereo speakers made for a vaguely funereal climate. The broad show of restraint that made the innovative food so spectacular and subtle had me wincing self-consciously every time my fork glanced lightly off a plate. In contrast, Commis -- from the counters, to the walls, aprons, and windows -- is all whites and silvers -- sleek and minimal, yet airy, fresh-feeling, and just welcoming enough. You get the sense that you're floating off a page in a glossy magazine. My girlfriend's dad sat at the end of our table wearing a dark grey suede blazer and a light blue shirt. His hair is whiter than coriander snow. I took a picture of him with a glass of the wine he brought and he was so excited about the shot that he showed it to the waiter. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>California cuisine is not so much a style of cooking as a dogma, a way of considering the idea of cooking food spawned by the bounty our state produces, and the culture that has sprouted up around it. In 2005, shortly before he opened Coi, Daniel Patterson wrote \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2005/11/06/style/tmagazine/t_l_2192_2194_talk_tyranny_.html\">\"To the Moon, Alice?\"\u003c/a>, an article for The New York Times Magazine, in which he breaks it down like an ill-wrought mayonnaise. The charges still stick:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"[E]veryone seems content with one narrowly defined style of cooking. This happy coincidence of chefs, customers and members of the press all trapped in the same culinary \"Groundhog Day\" goes largely unquestioned. A San Francisco diner said: 'When I go out for a Wednesday-night meal, I don't want something in gelée. I want a pork chop or a bowl of pasta.' I heard this repeatedly. Craig Stoll, the chef and owner of Delfina, offered a view of local chefs as shepherds of sorts, herding the ingredients from farm to table. \"I can't separate the cooking style from the ingredients,\" he said. \"The style is defined by the ingredients.\" Another chef talked about 'the point of view of the carrot.' Seriously.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Surely top-notch ingredients are essential to any permutation of high-end cuisine. Assembling expensive, nuanced, technique-heavy dishes of aged Safeway cast-offs would be like building a mansion out of plywood, but to perpetually insist on the ingredients taking center stage -- that might be overly cautious, lazy, even boring. The carrot may indeed have a point of view. It might want to be more than just a carrot. Maybe carrotness can be a color, a tone, not merely a theme on which to meditate, but something to harness in the interest of larger missions, the sort of dreams chefs like Patterson and Syhabout chase. A carrot is a character. Sometimes it begs for a new script so it doesn't have to play itself all the time -- like Al Pacino in the 80s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/05/commis-butter.jpg\" alt=\"commis butter\" title=\"commis butter\" width=\"500\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13033\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Churned butter at Commis\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in my stomach, new, somewhat more substantial things were circulating: two slow-roasted knobs of sirloin with rendered marrow-caper sauce, spring garlic pudding, and purple potatoes roasted with hay -- an excellent if familiar sum of slightly more rarified-sounding parts -- and a fantastic salad of corned pork jowl with cooked and raw gem lettuce and a black trumpet mushroom vinaigrette. I briefly considered fashioning a mouth-guard out of one of the heftier pork pieces and wearing it all day. Yet throughout dinner, Commis stunned me most in an unexpected place: the butter dish -- in this case, a flat grey slate of stone. Plenty of restaurants churn their own butter. Commis does too, and has it cultured outside the restaurant. I'm no expert, but it didn't taste like most of the really good butter I've had. It was softer than most, funky-smelling like an aged goat cheese. Notes of lemon and lavender danced around the edges of each taste; they mellowed as the butter sat for a few minutes, reacting with the air like wine or cheese. The flavor was bright and fresh but simultaneously old and weird -- in a totally beguiling way. The milk that made the butter might have been from Humboldt, tugged from the udder of the noblest, peppiest, most joyful, grass-stuffed cow in California, but the butter itself was other worldly.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"It all starts -- literally -- with the egg -- this post, a life, my recent meal at Commis, a 10-month-old restaurant in Piedmont, Oakland. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1272989439,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":12,"wordCount":1416},"headData":{"title":"Commis is Crackin' | KQED","description":"It all starts -- literally -- with the egg -- this post, a life, my recent meal at Commis, a 10-month-old restaurant in Piedmont, Oakland. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"13015 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=13015","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/05/04/commis-is-crackin/","disqusTitle":"Commis is Crackin'","path":"/bayareabites/13015/commis-is-crackin","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>It all starts -- literally -- with the egg -- this post, a life, my recent meal at \u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>, a 10-month-old restaurant in Piedmont, Oakland. An egg is a pretty perfect way to begin dinner, especially when, in the case of an inspired amuse-bouche, it evokes breakfast: a poached yolk the color of a setting sun couched in an onion soup. A smear of pureed dates lurked below the surface. Tidy piles of chive clippings and crunchy steel-cut oats flanked the yolk. Even though most of my mornings start with a banana, a very early stumble down Capp Street, and a Gatorade after the gym, one bite made me think of a day beginning, a breakfast on nice plates in a room with a lot of sun and a view of a garden. From the toastiness of the oats, to the sweet, effusive jam-like quality of the dates, and the egg's richness, the elements reconfigured signifiers of breakfast without directly referencing the preparations I usually associate with the meal. It was highbrow, thoughtful, and slightly futuristic, though still comforting and cozy. The dish was what it was; whether or not my experience reflected the chef's intent was totally unimportant. I took about five minutes to eat less than two ounces of perfect lovely food, an Ice Age by my standards. Indeed, it was a very good start.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All dishes aim to satisfy. Some aim to challenge too, to make you think in the same way you're taught to pore over paintings, short stories, and films. To say chefs who cook for our brains as well as our bellies make art and not food is silly; food is a necessity, not a privilege, and the satisfaction we get from any food -- whether a carrot stick or an amuse-bouche prepared with a quarter-ton of expensive machinery -- begins with that need. That's what makes it so exciting, and kind of marvelous to behold, the continuum of agricultural and technological advances, cultural shifts, geographic realities, and economic changes that have taken us from raw mammoth to \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa\u003c/a> -- where Commis chef James Syhabout incidentally once toiled. The diner's role is much like that of a film or theater audience's. Participation is a function of showing up and consuming. Whether you detach and enjoy, or think about why everything is the way it is and why you're seeing it the way you're seeing it, your involvement reveals you. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/05/commis-halibut.jpg\" alt=\"halibut tartare with coriander snow at commis\" title=\"halibut tartare with coriander snow at commis\" width=\"500\" height=\"378\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13031\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Halibut tartare with coriander snow\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the halibut, which I ate after the egg. The menu listed local halibut tartare with ginger, Meyer lemon vinaigrette, coriander snow, pickled kelp, and sprouting radish. It came as a slippery translucent mass quivering on an over-sized white plate, delicious, squishy, sparkly, salty, gravelly things bobbing together; the \"snow\" was crumbles of coriandar-infused ice, crunching lightly and melting with each slurp. It was good as food, the flavors supremely balanced, harmonious, but it became magical because it captured my imagination. As I was enjoying it, I stopped thinking about halibut, ginger, a salad dressing -- the components that had been cut, prepped, and positioned on the plate -- and simply let myself eat surf. The aroma wafting above the plate was the air on a good beach, light and effervescent. My fork was like my seven-year-old feet on vacation, splashing through a tide pool in Northern Florida. I thought about the last time I went to the beach. It was a while ago, and I couldn't even remember when I'd been exactly, or what I'd done there. I live perilously close to the ocean, and yet I go to the beach three times a year, and even then only occasionally set foot in the water. After the halibut, that may change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With its modern sensibility and artful, gently \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Willy_Wonka\">Wonka\u003c/a>-esque approach to food, Commis feels like a lighter, brighter counterpart to Coi in San Francisco. A few months ago, I ate a magnificent meal at \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>. At the same time, the restaurant's dark and shadowy digs, stiff be-suited waiters with hushed voices purring all around, and plaintive indie-folk jams emanating ever so lushly from unseen stereo speakers made for a vaguely funereal climate. The broad show of restraint that made the innovative food so spectacular and subtle had me wincing self-consciously every time my fork glanced lightly off a plate. In contrast, Commis -- from the counters, to the walls, aprons, and windows -- is all whites and silvers -- sleek and minimal, yet airy, fresh-feeling, and just welcoming enough. You get the sense that you're floating off a page in a glossy magazine. My girlfriend's dad sat at the end of our table wearing a dark grey suede blazer and a light blue shirt. His hair is whiter than coriander snow. I took a picture of him with a glass of the wine he brought and he was so excited about the shot that he showed it to the waiter. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>California cuisine is not so much a style of cooking as a dogma, a way of considering the idea of cooking food spawned by the bounty our state produces, and the culture that has sprouted up around it. In 2005, shortly before he opened Coi, Daniel Patterson wrote \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2005/11/06/style/tmagazine/t_l_2192_2194_talk_tyranny_.html\">\"To the Moon, Alice?\"\u003c/a>, an article for The New York Times Magazine, in which he breaks it down like an ill-wrought mayonnaise. The charges still stick:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"[E]veryone seems content with one narrowly defined style of cooking. This happy coincidence of chefs, customers and members of the press all trapped in the same culinary \"Groundhog Day\" goes largely unquestioned. A San Francisco diner said: 'When I go out for a Wednesday-night meal, I don't want something in gelée. I want a pork chop or a bowl of pasta.' I heard this repeatedly. Craig Stoll, the chef and owner of Delfina, offered a view of local chefs as shepherds of sorts, herding the ingredients from farm to table. \"I can't separate the cooking style from the ingredients,\" he said. \"The style is defined by the ingredients.\" Another chef talked about 'the point of view of the carrot.' Seriously.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Surely top-notch ingredients are essential to any permutation of high-end cuisine. Assembling expensive, nuanced, technique-heavy dishes of aged Safeway cast-offs would be like building a mansion out of plywood, but to perpetually insist on the ingredients taking center stage -- that might be overly cautious, lazy, even boring. The carrot may indeed have a point of view. It might want to be more than just a carrot. Maybe carrotness can be a color, a tone, not merely a theme on which to meditate, but something to harness in the interest of larger missions, the sort of dreams chefs like Patterson and Syhabout chase. A carrot is a character. Sometimes it begs for a new script so it doesn't have to play itself all the time -- like Al Pacino in the 80s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/05/commis-butter.jpg\" alt=\"commis butter\" title=\"commis butter\" width=\"500\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13033\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Churned butter at Commis\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in my stomach, new, somewhat more substantial things were circulating: two slow-roasted knobs of sirloin with rendered marrow-caper sauce, spring garlic pudding, and purple potatoes roasted with hay -- an excellent if familiar sum of slightly more rarified-sounding parts -- and a fantastic salad of corned pork jowl with cooked and raw gem lettuce and a black trumpet mushroom vinaigrette. I briefly considered fashioning a mouth-guard out of one of the heftier pork pieces and wearing it all day. Yet throughout dinner, Commis stunned me most in an unexpected place: the butter dish -- in this case, a flat grey slate of stone. Plenty of restaurants churn their own butter. Commis does too, and has it cultured outside the restaurant. I'm no expert, but it didn't taste like most of the really good butter I've had. It was softer than most, funky-smelling like an aged goat cheese. Notes of lemon and lavender danced around the edges of each taste; they mellowed as the butter sat for a few minutes, reacting with the air like wine or cheese. The flavor was bright and fresh but simultaneously old and weird -- in a totally beguiling way. The milk that made the butter might have been from Humboldt, tugged from the udder of the noblest, peppiest, most joyful, grass-stuffed cow in California, but the butter itself was other worldly.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/13015/commis-is-crackin","authors":["5060"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10"],"tags":["bayareabites_234","bayareabites_4000","bayareabites_3998","bayareabites_3995","bayareabites_3999","bayareabites_4001","bayareabites_3996","bayareabites_3997","bayareabites_14757"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/possible-5gxfizEbKOJ-pbF5ASgxrs_.1400x1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/ATC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/powerpress/1440_0018_AmericanSuburb_iTunesTile_01.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. 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We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. 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Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.","airtime":"MON-FRI 3am-9am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2021/10/ME_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/morning-edition"},"onourwatch":{"id":"onourwatch","title":"On Our Watch","tagline":"Police secrets, unsealed","info":"For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/OOW_Tile_Final.png","imageAlt":"On Our Watch from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/onourwatch","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"1"},"link":"/podcasts/onourwatch","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1567098962","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/onourwatch","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0OLWoyizopu6tY1XiuX70x","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/On-Our-Watch-p1436229/","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/show/on-our-watch","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510360/podcast.xml"}},"on-the-media":{"id":"on-the-media","title":"On The Media","info":"Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. 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