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I am a regular contributor to AFAR, Edible East Bay Magazine, Oakland Magazine, Berkeleyside's NOSH and other publications. I usually take a route that's slightly off the beaten path, like \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2017/fun-with-food-insults/\">collecting food-related insults\u003c/a> around the world or \u003ca href=\"https://www.afar.com/magazine/what-i-learned-hawking-sweet-potatoes-with-a-street-vendor-in-taiwan?email=amindess%40aol.com&utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Doctors%20Without%20Borders&utm_term=Daily%20Wander%20Newsletter\">volunteering with a Sweet Potato Mama\u003c/a> (street food seller) in Tapei.\r\n\r\nCulture is the thread that ties together my several careers. I also work as a sign language interpreter, educator and author. My study of Deaf culture has taken me around the world, where I am always on a quest to find Deaf-owned restaurants. 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In Oakland's Fruitvale district, the many \u003cem>taqueros\u003c/em> and food vendors along the streets coalesce to map complex patterns of migration and weave a vibrant tapestry of food traditions from across the Americas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the dishes from these traditions are delicious, too. We recently visited five food trucks in the neighborhood to understand the regional distinctions of their offerings and hear from the people who make them. Come along with us to experience the many flavors of Fruitvale—and bring your appetite.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Aguachiles el Tamarindo\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 3053 International Blvd., Oakland, CA\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cstrong>Regions:\u003c/strong> Sinaloa, Baja California and Jalisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Afternoons, weekends\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try: \u003c/strong>\u003cem>Torre de mariscos\u003c/em>, Baja-style \u003cem>tacos de pescado \u003c/em>and \u003cem>camaron\u003c/em>, ceviche \u003cem>verde\u003c/em>, mango and \u003cem>chamoy\u003c/em> ceviche\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135897\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135897\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Torre Sinaloense with scallops, shrimp, cucumber, imitation crab, tomato, avocado and covered with salsa negra.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Enrique Galindo (El Grio, Jalisco) and family's Torre de Mariscos estilo Sinaloense with scallops, shrimp, cucumber, imitation crab, chiltepin, tomato, avocado and covered with salsa negra. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>An offshoot of Enrique Galindo and family's long-established taqueria enterprise Mi Grullense, Aguachiles el Tamarindo offers delicious taco and torta staples. But what sets them apart is their vast menu of seafood—ceviches, tostadas, cocteles and their show-stopper: the \u003cem>torre de mariscos\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Literally translated as a “tower of seafood,” the \u003cem>torre\u003c/em> has five-plus layers of tender scallops, \u003cem>jaiba\u003c/em> (imitation crab), shrimp, octopus, chiltepin, avocado, onion, tomato and cucumber, all drenched in a family recipe of Sinaloa-style \u003cem>salsa negra\u003c/em>—a punchy combination of Maggi sauce and secret ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote]To their Flamin' Hot competitor Taco Bell, manager Adriana Nieto says, \"\u003cem>Que se vaya!\u003c/em>\"[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a popular truck destination, Aguachiles el Tamarindo has creatively adapted to waves of new clientele. They've produced unique items on their menu to satisfy the cravings of locals from a variety of international traditions, including a Vietnamese and Cajun-style shrimp boil and poppin' diaspora dishes like Flamin' Hot Cheeto nachos. To their Flamin' Hot competitor Taco Bell, manager Adriana Nieto says, \"\u003cem>Que se vaya!\u003c/em>\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip:\u003c/strong> Keep coming back. The menu is so large that it will take a long time to try all of their offerings.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>El Pipirin\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 3315 Farnam St., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegion:\u003c/strong> Guadalajara, Jalisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Afternoons, early evenings\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Torta ahogada\u003c/em>, \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>, \u003cem>barbacoa de res\u003c/em>, guava and cream empanadas\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135903\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135903\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Tomato salsa (L) and chile de arbol (R) torta ahogada at El Pipirin.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tomato salsa (L) and chile de arbol (R) torta ahogada at El Pipirin. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jorge Ayllon established El Pipirin 29 years ago to bring the tastes and \u003cem>costumbres\u003c/em> of Guadalajara, Jalisco to the Bay. With pride, his family set out to offer items that couldn't be found in other restaurants in the region. That's partly what makes their \u003cem>barbacoa\u003c/em> so unique. Beyond swapping \u003cem>borrega \u003c/em>(sheep) for \u003cem>res \u003c/em>(beef) and \u003cem>lengua\u003c/em> (tongue)\u003cem>, \u003c/em>Ayllon and family use a special oven to duplicate the dish's traditional preparation, which involves cooking the meat in an underground oven for 20 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But one dish takes center stage at El Pipirin, and that's the Torta Ahogada. They've mastered the recipe over the years to produce a torta that's identical to the one you might order in Guadalajara. Its core elements include a soft-yet-sturdy \u003cem>bolillo\u003c/em> layered with beans, \u003ci>barbacoa \u003c/i>and drenched with an extra spicy \u003cem>chile de arbol \u003c/em>or a mild tomato salsa. The fiery sandwich wouldn't be complete without a garnish of finely-sliced white onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size='large' align='right' citation='Jorge Ayllon']\"El chile tiene que ser muy bravo, para que siempre venga la gente.\"[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The item that stands out as a personal favorite of ours is their \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>. Each cup bursts diced onions, finely stewed bits of \u003cem>barbacoa\u003c/em>, and a zing of lime. Beyond its singular flavor and mouth-watering aromatics, the beefy broth is loaded with a surprise ingredient: garbanzo beans. The convergence of acid, fat, heat and salt blend into an unforgettable stew perfect for dipping or enjoyed on its own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Enjoy a mini empanada made fresh daily with original ingredients including sweet cream, guava and strawberry.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>La Grana Fish\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 865 50th Ave., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions:\u003c/strong> Jalisco, Baja California, Michoacán and Sinaloa\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Saturdays and Sundays, while ingredients last\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Quesabirrias\u003c/em> (Tijuana), \u003cem>papas rellenas\u003c/em> (Mazatlán), \u003cem>aguachile\u003c/em> ceviche (Jalisco), fresh ahi tuna tostada, michelada mix\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135898\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135898\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Micheladas, cevice de aguachile, quesabirrias, papas rellenas.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Micheladas, cevice de aguachile, quesabirrias, papas rellenas. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you’ve checked your Instagram feed lately, chances are you’ve caught a glimpse of \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> accompanied by a steaming cup of \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>. \u003cem>Quesabirria\u003c/em> offerings are popping up in locations across the Bay Area and are quickly gaining a cult-like fan base. What sets the Tijuana \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> apart from its taco counterparts is the decadent combination of melty \u003cem>queso quesadilla, \u003c/em>crispy cheese edges and a heaping scoop of tangy, tender stewed \u003cem>birria de res\u003c/em>—all wrapped in a chile-dipped corn tortilla. Dunk your \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> into a steaming cup of \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>, and you’re on your way to an explosion of flavor that satisfies with every bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Grana Fish’s second show-stopper is their \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cem>papas rellenas\u003c/em>, or twice-baked potatoes,\u003c/span> with roots in Mazatlán, Sinaloa. Each giant potato teems with cheese, bacon, pickled jalapeños, a meat of your choice and a dash of green onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But don't snooze on their seafood fare—particularly the \u003cem>ceviche aguachile\u003c/em>. The recipe comes from owner Alvaro Ramos' hometown, Autlán de la Grana, Jalisco. The contrasting bite of serrano chile and pickled red onion against the tender shrimp dethrones offerings from local ceviche competitors. If you're looking for something wholly unique to La Grana fish, try their fresh ahi tuna tostada.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size='large' align='right' citation='Ana Morales']\"It's just the two of us. We would like to expand to have a restaurant. That's our dream.\"[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owners Alvaro Ramos (Jalisco) and Ana Morales (Michoacán) have big dreams for La Grana Fish. What started out as a small cart launched into a popular weekend truck. Their hope is to one day open a \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">brick-and-mortar restaurant\u003c/span>, and if the long lines of eager customers prove anything, they're well on their way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Get your stuffed baked potato \u003cem>mar y tierra\u003c/em> style with carne asada and shrimp.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>El Charro\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 1502 Fruitvale Ave., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions: \u003c/strong>Familiar across Mexico, but a specialty in the north\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Saturdays and Sundays, late morning/early lunch\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try: \u003c/strong>\u003cem>Pollo asado\u003c/em> (\u003cem>al carbon\u003c/em>), ribs, papaya \u003cem>agua fresca\u003c/em> (pending availability)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135906\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135906\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Half-chicken meal of pollo al carbon, rice beans and tortillas from El Charro in East Oakland.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Half-chicken meal of pollo al carbon, rice, beans and tortillas from El Charro in East Oakland. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cooking whole chickens over charcoal is a technique shared and adapted throughout all of the Americas. In Peru, \u003cem>pollo a la brasa\u003c/em> served with yucca fries is popular, while \u003cem>pollo al carbon\u003c/em> (literally chicken to the coal) is popular across Mexico from Chihuahua to the Yucatán.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fire-braised roasted chicken is often served with fresh corn tortillas, pico de gallo and a fresh salsa of your choice (most commonly a red salsa made with broiled chile and tomatoes or a green salsa of tomatillo, jalapeño, serrano and onion).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Attached to a bustling market specializing in Latin American goods, El Charro’s custom charcoal grill churns out whole chickens and dry-rub ribs street-side from their food truck or for purchase inside the store. You can count on freshly charred chicken (and dry-rub ribs!) \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mondays–Sundays\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> starting at 8am.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Quench your thirst with any of their \u003cem>aguas frescas. \u003c/em>Papaya, pineapple, watermelon, tamarindo, jamaica are popular, depending on seasonal availability.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Tamales Acapulco Doña Tere\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 4559 International Blvd., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions:\u003c/strong> Guerrero and South Central Mexico\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go: \u003c/strong>Weekdays and Saturdays, late morning/early afternoon\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> Tamales de \u003cem>mole rojo\u003c/em>, chicharron \u003cem>tacos de canasta\u003c/em> (also known as \u003cem>al vapor\u003c/em>)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135909\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135909\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Mole rojo tamal and tamal de puerco from Tamales Acapulco in East Oakland.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mole rojo tamal and tamal de puerco from Tamales Acapulco in East Oakland. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Teresa Mondragon of Tamales Acapulco is a food entrepreneur fondly known as Doña Tere. As reported in \u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2017/10/09/tamales-acapulco-oaklands-original-tamal-joint\">Berkeleyside\u003c/a>, she's among a cohort who helped change local laws for food vending in Fruitvale nearly 20 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's what brought her food truck to Fruitvale, where she offers \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">some of the most-coveted tamales in the neighborhood\u003c/span> as well as\u003cem> tacos de canasta\u003c/em>, tortas and pupusas (a Salvadorean staple).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While mole recipes from Oaxaca and Puebla have gained the greatest popularity in the United States, it's important to remember that the indigenous roots of mole span far and wide across Central and Southern Mexico.\u003c/span> And the state of Guerrero has its own mole traditions, including the adoption of the green and nutty\u003cem> pipian, \u003c/em>as well as \u003cem>mole rosa\u003c/em> and\u003cem> mole rojo\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Doña Tere has mastered the latter. What’s special about her approach is how she folds the mole sauce into the \u003cem>masa \u003c/em>of the tamal, infusing her \u003cem>maiz\u003c/em> with the richness and complexity of pork-stewed red mole. Add a few \u003cem>tacos de canasta \u003c/em>to your order and let the fatty, stewed \u003cem>chicharron\u003c/em> and salsa verde melt on your tongue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While this food is served and consumed quickly, it's not fast food. Rather, it's a carefully-crafted \u003cem>antojito\u003c/em> (little craving) bundled in regional pride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip:\u003c/strong> On cold days, ask for \u003cem>champurrado\u003c/em>, and let the creamy combo of \u003cem>atole, piloncillo, canela, \u003c/em>chocolate and milk warm you from the inside out.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cem>Follow our eating adventures with some of our favorite dishes from these five trucks: \u003c/em>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" size=\"medium\" ids=\"135896,135895,135902,135904,135905,135907,135901,135900,135899,135908,135912,135929\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch4>\u003cem>Hungry? Use our Google Map to find each of these spots in East Oakland. \u003c/em>\u003c/h4>\n\u003cp>\u003c!-- iframe plugin v.4.3 wordpress.org/plugins/iframe/ -->\u003cbr>\n\u003ciframe src=\"https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/2/embed?mid=1CH9ZSu7sy0moLZgXFMJrwkokteKws56n\" width=\"800\" height=\"500\" scrolling=\"yes\" class=\"iframe-class\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"From Sinaloa to Jalisco, these five food trucks in Oakland's Fruitvale district highlight the regional distinction of specialty plates of Mexico with pride. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1583623797,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":true,"iframeSrcs":["https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/2/embed"],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":true,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":37,"wordCount":1672},"headData":{"title":"5 Fruitvale Food Trucks That Put Regional Mexican Plates on the Map | KQED","description":"From Sinaloa to Jalisco, these five food trucks in Oakland's Fruitvale district highlight the regional distinction of specialty plates of Mexico with pride. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"5 Fruitvale Food Trucks That Put Regional Mexican Plates on the Map","datePublished":"2019-12-17T01:29:08.000Z","dateModified":"2020-03-07T23:29:57.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"135813 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=135813","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/12/16/5-food-trucks-that-put-regional-mexican-plates-on-the-map/","disqusTitle":"5 Fruitvale Food Trucks That Put Regional Mexican Plates on the Map","nprByline":"Lina Blanco, Masha Pershay","nprAudio":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/2019/12/MexFoodTrucks2way191221.wav","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/135813/5-food-trucks-that-put-regional-mexican-plates-on-the-map","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/2019/12/MexFoodTrucks2way191221.wav","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>All across Mexico, regional dishes are as varied as the terrain, language and cultural traditions. In Oakland's Fruitvale district, the many \u003cem>taqueros\u003c/em> and food vendors along the streets coalesce to map complex patterns of migration and weave a vibrant tapestry of food traditions from across the Americas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the dishes from these traditions are delicious, too. We recently visited five food trucks in the neighborhood to understand the regional distinctions of their offerings and hear from the people who make them. Come along with us to experience the many flavors of Fruitvale—and bring your appetite.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Aguachiles el Tamarindo\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 3053 International Blvd., Oakland, CA\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cstrong>Regions:\u003c/strong> Sinaloa, Baja California and Jalisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Afternoons, weekends\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try: \u003c/strong>\u003cem>Torre de mariscos\u003c/em>, Baja-style \u003cem>tacos de pescado \u003c/em>and \u003cem>camaron\u003c/em>, ceviche \u003cem>verde\u003c/em>, mango and \u003cem>chamoy\u003c/em> ceviche\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135897\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135897\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Torre Sinaloense with scallops, shrimp, cucumber, imitation crab, tomato, avocado and covered with salsa negra.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Enrique Galindo (El Grio, Jalisco) and family's Torre de Mariscos estilo Sinaloense with scallops, shrimp, cucumber, imitation crab, chiltepin, tomato, avocado and covered with salsa negra. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>An offshoot of Enrique Galindo and family's long-established taqueria enterprise Mi Grullense, Aguachiles el Tamarindo offers delicious taco and torta staples. But what sets them apart is their vast menu of seafood—ceviches, tostadas, cocteles and their show-stopper: the \u003cem>torre de mariscos\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Literally translated as a “tower of seafood,” the \u003cem>torre\u003c/em> has five-plus layers of tender scallops, \u003cem>jaiba\u003c/em> (imitation crab), shrimp, octopus, chiltepin, avocado, onion, tomato and cucumber, all drenched in a family recipe of Sinaloa-style \u003cem>salsa negra\u003c/em>—a punchy combination of Maggi sauce and secret ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"To their Flamin' Hot competitor Taco Bell, manager Adriana Nieto says, \"\u003cem>Que se vaya!\u003c/em>\"","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a popular truck destination, Aguachiles el Tamarindo has creatively adapted to waves of new clientele. They've produced unique items on their menu to satisfy the cravings of locals from a variety of international traditions, including a Vietnamese and Cajun-style shrimp boil and poppin' diaspora dishes like Flamin' Hot Cheeto nachos. To their Flamin' Hot competitor Taco Bell, manager Adriana Nieto says, \"\u003cem>Que se vaya!\u003c/em>\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip:\u003c/strong> Keep coming back. The menu is so large that it will take a long time to try all of their offerings.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>El Pipirin\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 3315 Farnam St., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegion:\u003c/strong> Guadalajara, Jalisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Afternoons, early evenings\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Torta ahogada\u003c/em>, \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>, \u003cem>barbacoa de res\u003c/em>, guava and cream empanadas\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135903\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135903\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Tomato salsa (L) and chile de arbol (R) torta ahogada at El Pipirin.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tomato salsa (L) and chile de arbol (R) torta ahogada at El Pipirin. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jorge Ayllon established El Pipirin 29 years ago to bring the tastes and \u003cem>costumbres\u003c/em> of Guadalajara, Jalisco to the Bay. With pride, his family set out to offer items that couldn't be found in other restaurants in the region. That's partly what makes their \u003cem>barbacoa\u003c/em> so unique. Beyond swapping \u003cem>borrega \u003c/em>(sheep) for \u003cem>res \u003c/em>(beef) and \u003cem>lengua\u003c/em> (tongue)\u003cem>, \u003c/em>Ayllon and family use a special oven to duplicate the dish's traditional preparation, which involves cooking the meat in an underground oven for 20 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But one dish takes center stage at El Pipirin, and that's the Torta Ahogada. They've mastered the recipe over the years to produce a torta that's identical to the one you might order in Guadalajara. Its core elements include a soft-yet-sturdy \u003cem>bolillo\u003c/em> layered with beans, \u003ci>barbacoa \u003c/i>and drenched with an extra spicy \u003cem>chile de arbol \u003c/em>or a mild tomato salsa. The fiery sandwich wouldn't be complete without a garnish of finely-sliced white onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"\"El chile tiene que ser muy bravo, para que siempre venga la gente.\"","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"large","align":"right","citation":"Jorge Ayllon","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The item that stands out as a personal favorite of ours is their \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>. Each cup bursts diced onions, finely stewed bits of \u003cem>barbacoa\u003c/em>, and a zing of lime. Beyond its singular flavor and mouth-watering aromatics, the beefy broth is loaded with a surprise ingredient: garbanzo beans. The convergence of acid, fat, heat and salt blend into an unforgettable stew perfect for dipping or enjoyed on its own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Enjoy a mini empanada made fresh daily with original ingredients including sweet cream, guava and strawberry.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>La Grana Fish\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 865 50th Ave., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions:\u003c/strong> Jalisco, Baja California, Michoacán and Sinaloa\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Saturdays and Sundays, while ingredients last\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Quesabirrias\u003c/em> (Tijuana), \u003cem>papas rellenas\u003c/em> (Mazatlán), \u003cem>aguachile\u003c/em> ceviche (Jalisco), fresh ahi tuna tostada, michelada mix\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135898\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135898\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Micheladas, cevice de aguachile, quesabirrias, papas rellenas.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Micheladas, cevice de aguachile, quesabirrias, papas rellenas. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you’ve checked your Instagram feed lately, chances are you’ve caught a glimpse of \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> accompanied by a steaming cup of \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>. \u003cem>Quesabirria\u003c/em> offerings are popping up in locations across the Bay Area and are quickly gaining a cult-like fan base. What sets the Tijuana \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> apart from its taco counterparts is the decadent combination of melty \u003cem>queso quesadilla, \u003c/em>crispy cheese edges and a heaping scoop of tangy, tender stewed \u003cem>birria de res\u003c/em>—all wrapped in a chile-dipped corn tortilla. Dunk your \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> into a steaming cup of \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>, and you’re on your way to an explosion of flavor that satisfies with every bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Grana Fish’s second show-stopper is their \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cem>papas rellenas\u003c/em>, or twice-baked potatoes,\u003c/span> with roots in Mazatlán, Sinaloa. Each giant potato teems with cheese, bacon, pickled jalapeños, a meat of your choice and a dash of green onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But don't snooze on their seafood fare—particularly the \u003cem>ceviche aguachile\u003c/em>. The recipe comes from owner Alvaro Ramos' hometown, Autlán de la Grana, Jalisco. The contrasting bite of serrano chile and pickled red onion against the tender shrimp dethrones offerings from local ceviche competitors. If you're looking for something wholly unique to La Grana fish, try their fresh ahi tuna tostada.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"\"It's just the two of us. We would like to expand to have a restaurant. That's our dream.\"","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"large","align":"right","citation":"Ana Morales","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owners Alvaro Ramos (Jalisco) and Ana Morales (Michoacán) have big dreams for La Grana Fish. What started out as a small cart launched into a popular weekend truck. Their hope is to one day open a \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">brick-and-mortar restaurant\u003c/span>, and if the long lines of eager customers prove anything, they're well on their way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Get your stuffed baked potato \u003cem>mar y tierra\u003c/em> style with carne asada and shrimp.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>El Charro\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 1502 Fruitvale Ave., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions: \u003c/strong>Familiar across Mexico, but a specialty in the north\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Saturdays and Sundays, late morning/early lunch\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try: \u003c/strong>\u003cem>Pollo asado\u003c/em> (\u003cem>al carbon\u003c/em>), ribs, papaya \u003cem>agua fresca\u003c/em> (pending availability)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135906\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135906\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Half-chicken meal of pollo al carbon, rice beans and tortillas from El Charro in East Oakland.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Half-chicken meal of pollo al carbon, rice, beans and tortillas from El Charro in East Oakland. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cooking whole chickens over charcoal is a technique shared and adapted throughout all of the Americas. In Peru, \u003cem>pollo a la brasa\u003c/em> served with yucca fries is popular, while \u003cem>pollo al carbon\u003c/em> (literally chicken to the coal) is popular across Mexico from Chihuahua to the Yucatán.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fire-braised roasted chicken is often served with fresh corn tortillas, pico de gallo and a fresh salsa of your choice (most commonly a red salsa made with broiled chile and tomatoes or a green salsa of tomatillo, jalapeño, serrano and onion).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Attached to a bustling market specializing in Latin American goods, El Charro’s custom charcoal grill churns out whole chickens and dry-rub ribs street-side from their food truck or for purchase inside the store. You can count on freshly charred chicken (and dry-rub ribs!) \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mondays–Sundays\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> starting at 8am.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Quench your thirst with any of their \u003cem>aguas frescas. \u003c/em>Papaya, pineapple, watermelon, tamarindo, jamaica are popular, depending on seasonal availability.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Tamales Acapulco Doña Tere\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 4559 International Blvd., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions:\u003c/strong> Guerrero and South Central Mexico\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go: \u003c/strong>Weekdays and Saturdays, late morning/early afternoon\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> Tamales de \u003cem>mole rojo\u003c/em>, chicharron \u003cem>tacos de canasta\u003c/em> (also known as \u003cem>al vapor\u003c/em>)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135909\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135909\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Mole rojo tamal and tamal de puerco from Tamales Acapulco in East Oakland.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mole rojo tamal and tamal de puerco from Tamales Acapulco in East Oakland. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Teresa Mondragon of Tamales Acapulco is a food entrepreneur fondly known as Doña Tere. As reported in \u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2017/10/09/tamales-acapulco-oaklands-original-tamal-joint\">Berkeleyside\u003c/a>, she's among a cohort who helped change local laws for food vending in Fruitvale nearly 20 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's what brought her food truck to Fruitvale, where she offers \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">some of the most-coveted tamales in the neighborhood\u003c/span> as well as\u003cem> tacos de canasta\u003c/em>, tortas and pupusas (a Salvadorean staple).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While mole recipes from Oaxaca and Puebla have gained the greatest popularity in the United States, it's important to remember that the indigenous roots of mole span far and wide across Central and Southern Mexico.\u003c/span> And the state of Guerrero has its own mole traditions, including the adoption of the green and nutty\u003cem> pipian, \u003c/em>as well as \u003cem>mole rosa\u003c/em> and\u003cem> mole rojo\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Doña Tere has mastered the latter. What’s special about her approach is how she folds the mole sauce into the \u003cem>masa \u003c/em>of the tamal, infusing her \u003cem>maiz\u003c/em> with the richness and complexity of pork-stewed red mole. Add a few \u003cem>tacos de canasta \u003c/em>to your order and let the fatty, stewed \u003cem>chicharron\u003c/em> and salsa verde melt on your tongue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While this food is served and consumed quickly, it's not fast food. Rather, it's a carefully-crafted \u003cem>antojito\u003c/em> (little craving) bundled in regional pride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip:\u003c/strong> On cold days, ask for \u003cem>champurrado\u003c/em>, and let the creamy combo of \u003cem>atole, piloncillo, canela, \u003c/em>chocolate and milk warm you from the inside out.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cem>Follow our eating adventures with some of our favorite dishes from these five trucks: \u003c/em>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","size":"medium","ids":"135896,135895,135902,135904,135905,135907,135901,135900,135899,135908,135912,135929","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch4>\u003cem>Hungry? Use our Google Map to find each of these spots in East Oakland. \u003c/em>\u003c/h4>\n\u003cp>\u003c!-- iframe plugin v.4.3 wordpress.org/plugins/iframe/ -->\u003cbr>\n\u003ciframe src=\"https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/2/embed?mid=1CH9ZSu7sy0moLZgXFMJrwkokteKws56n\" width=\"800\" height=\"500\" scrolling=\"yes\" class=\"iframe-class\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/135813/5-food-trucks-that-put-regional-mexican-plates-on-the-map","authors":["byline_bayareabites_135813"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_16525","bayareabites_16519","bayareabites_11079","bayareabites_16263","bayareabites_9710","bayareabites_13800","bayareabites_16522","bayareabites_16524","bayareabites_14177","bayareabites_13606","bayareabites_180","bayareabites_758","bayareabites_2561","bayareabites_15518","bayareabites_16518","bayareabites_16523","bayareabites_767","bayareabites_574","bayareabites_16520","bayareabites_16521"],"featImg":"bayareabites_135959","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_82223":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_82223","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"82223","score":null,"sort":[1400599835000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"cholo-soy-a-tiny-peruvian-restaurant-in-the-mission-serves-some-of-the-best-ceviche-in-the-bay","title":"Cholo Soy: Tiny Peruvian Restaurant in the Mission Serves Excellent Comfort Food and Fantastic Ceviche ","publishDate":1400599835,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82231\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/regular-ceviche-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/regular-ceviche-2.jpg\" alt=\"Cholo Soy, a tiny restaurant in a shopping mall, serves some of the best ceviche I have tasted in the Bay. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"711\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82231\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cholo Soy, a tiny restaurant in a shopping mall, serves some of the best ceviche I have tasted in the Bay. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In my short two years of living in the Bay Area, I have seen only a few sweltering days. We here are a blessed bunch, with our mild winters and temperate (if not downright cool) summers. So when the temperatures skyrocket above our familiar upper 60s, it can be challenging to know how to cope. We’ve already had two heat waves this spring, and are likely poised for more as the summer continues. My advice? Take it in stride and fill up on \u003cem>ceviche\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This chilled, tangy raw fish salad from Latin America is one of the greatest antidotes for the heat as well as for the other risk of warm weather, mid-week, beer-filled barbecue parties that stretch into far later hours than anticipated. Cholo Soy, the nondescript Peruvian restaurant slipped into the lobby of the Plaza Adelante on 19th and Mission, is an excellent place to find your remedy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82229\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/counter-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/counter-2.jpg\" alt=\"The open kitchen counter is the best place to watch chef/owner Yeral Caldas plate his specialties. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"627\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82229\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The open kitchen counter is the best place to watch chef/owner Yeral Caldas plate his specialties. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chef and owner Yeral Caldas mans the kitchen every day of the week except for Sundays, serving a concise menu of Peruvian staples for breakfast and lunch. Ceviche and a few other saucy potato-based salads, like \u003cem>papa a la huancaina\u003c/em> and \u003cem>ocopa\u003c/em>, are on regular offer, and a selection of two or three stewed entrees change daily. On Mondays, you can find \u003cem>cau-cau\u003c/em> (tripe stew); Thursdays, \u003cem>aji de gallina\u003c/em> (stewed chicken with aji chiles); or Saturdays, \u003cem>cabrito norteño de cordero\u003c/em> (braised lamb shank). There are a few tables perched against the wall, but the prime seat is right at the counter, where you can watch Caldas work. Turned towards his food truck-sized kitchen, it is much easier to forget that you’re sitting in a small shopping mall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the particularly hot (90+ degree) day of our visit, the specials on offer were twofold: \u003cem>escabeche de pollo\u003c/em> or \u003cem>pescado\u003c/em> ($8) and \u003cem>carapulcra\u003c/em>, a stew made of pork or chicken, potatoes, chiles, and peanuts ($11.50-$12.50). Stew sounded like a terrible idea, even in the cool, breezy lobby, so we decided to sample the two specialty ceviches ($7.50 each) and the \u003cem>escabeche de pollo\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82228\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/aji-ceviche-3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/aji-ceviche-3.jpg\" alt=\"The ceviche chalaco comes tossed with sauce made from sweet-hot, yellow aji amarillo chiles. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"693\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82228\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The \u003cem>ceviche chalaco\u003c/em> comes tossed with sauce made from sweet-hot, yellow \u003cem>aji amarillo\u003c/em> chiles. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ceviches at Cholo Soy are served with plenty of sauce. Rumored to cure hangovers better than cold pizza and bacon, this tangy, bright liquor is known as \u003cem>leche de tigre\u003c/em>, or tiger’s milk. At its best, the leche is salty, tangy, and refreshing, with just enough heat to erase any lingering fatigue. At Cholo Soy, options are redolent of citrus and a faint whiff of the ocean: the classic \u003cem>ceviche de pescado\u003c/em> is lime-forward, with a hint of celery juice and fragrant cilantro, while the bright yellow \u003cem>ceviche chalaco\u003c/em> is anchored by the brilliantly sweet notes of \u003cem>aji amarillo\u003c/em> chiles. You’ll swear you taste a hint of pineapple, or else a whiff of mango.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fish, white basa from the Mekong River Delta (per the menu), is gently cured. Each thin slice is presented right after being mixed with citrus, the fish slowly transforming from translucent to opaque as it is eaten. Its flavor is mild and sweet, fully embraced by the potent sauce in which it sits. Slivers of red onion and flecks of cilantro add crunch and herbaceous freshness. Alongside each ceviche order is a small bowl of hotter-than-hot sauce (drizzle with care) and a handful of corn nuts, which shouldn’t be ignored.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82230\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/escabeche-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/escabeche-1.jpg\" alt=\"Escabeche de pollo, a Wednesday special, comes with a vinegar-and-chile braised chicken drumstick, rice, and lentils. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82230\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>Escabeche de pollo\u003c/em>, a Wednesday special, comes with a vinegar-and-chile braised chicken drumstick, rice, and lentils. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The escabeche, perhaps, lacks the glamour of the ceviche, but it is far from boring. In it, a single braised chicken drumstick sits enveloped by a tangy, vinegary sauce spiked with soft caramelized onions. This sweet and sour gravy makes its way into the crevices of the sweet steamed white rice and tender lentils. Get a bite of all of the components for the optimum balance of flavor. Once the chicken’s gone, top any rogue bites of rice and beans with a little leftover leche de tigre and slices of red onion. Delightful. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82232\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/sign-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/sign-1.jpg\" alt=\"A small sandwich board sign is the only indication of the restaurant’s presence in the Plaza Adelante. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"700\" height=\"1050\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82232\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A small sandwich board sign is the only indication of the restaurant’s presence in the Plaza Adelante. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Depending on its country of origin, the word “cholo” can be used to characterize a range of ethnicities and heritages. In some countries, the word flirts with derogatory slur, but in Peru it is a proud descriptor of indigenous heritage. To name a restaurant “Cholo Soy” (“I am a Cholo”) is to lay claim to an historical past and assert the food’s unique distinction in a rapidly gentrifying neighborhood. The food at Cholo Soy is the food of the people — inexpensive, exciting, and soul warming. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/cholo-soy-san-francisco\">\u003cstrong>Cholo Soy\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/7KozfE\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2301 Mission Street (inside Plaza Adelante)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sat 9am-4pm\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Cool, spicy Peruvian ceviche is the perfect dish for the record-breaking warm weather that's been hitting the Bay. Kate Williams visits Cholo Soy, the tiny Mission restaurant rumored to serve the best.\r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1400775266,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":11,"wordCount":886},"headData":{"title":"Cholo Soy: Tiny Peruvian Restaurant in the Mission Serves Excellent Comfort Food and Fantastic Ceviche | KQED","description":"Cool, spicy Peruvian ceviche is the perfect dish for the record-breaking warm weather that's been hitting the Bay. Kate Williams visits Cholo Soy, the tiny Mission restaurant rumored to serve the best.\r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Cholo Soy: Tiny Peruvian Restaurant in the Mission Serves Excellent Comfort Food and Fantastic Ceviche ","datePublished":"2014-05-20T15:30:35.000Z","dateModified":"2014-05-22T16:14:26.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"82223 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=82223","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/05/20/cholo-soy-a-tiny-peruvian-restaurant-in-the-mission-serves-some-of-the-best-ceviche-in-the-bay/","disqusTitle":"Cholo Soy: Tiny Peruvian Restaurant in the Mission Serves Excellent Comfort Food and Fantastic Ceviche ","path":"/bayareabites/82223/cholo-soy-a-tiny-peruvian-restaurant-in-the-mission-serves-some-of-the-best-ceviche-in-the-bay","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82231\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/regular-ceviche-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/regular-ceviche-2.jpg\" alt=\"Cholo Soy, a tiny restaurant in a shopping mall, serves some of the best ceviche I have tasted in the Bay. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"711\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82231\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cholo Soy, a tiny restaurant in a shopping mall, serves some of the best ceviche I have tasted in the Bay. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In my short two years of living in the Bay Area, I have seen only a few sweltering days. We here are a blessed bunch, with our mild winters and temperate (if not downright cool) summers. So when the temperatures skyrocket above our familiar upper 60s, it can be challenging to know how to cope. We’ve already had two heat waves this spring, and are likely poised for more as the summer continues. My advice? Take it in stride and fill up on \u003cem>ceviche\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This chilled, tangy raw fish salad from Latin America is one of the greatest antidotes for the heat as well as for the other risk of warm weather, mid-week, beer-filled barbecue parties that stretch into far later hours than anticipated. Cholo Soy, the nondescript Peruvian restaurant slipped into the lobby of the Plaza Adelante on 19th and Mission, is an excellent place to find your remedy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82229\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/counter-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/counter-2.jpg\" alt=\"The open kitchen counter is the best place to watch chef/owner Yeral Caldas plate his specialties. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"627\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82229\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The open kitchen counter is the best place to watch chef/owner Yeral Caldas plate his specialties. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Chef and owner Yeral Caldas mans the kitchen every day of the week except for Sundays, serving a concise menu of Peruvian staples for breakfast and lunch. Ceviche and a few other saucy potato-based salads, like \u003cem>papa a la huancaina\u003c/em> and \u003cem>ocopa\u003c/em>, are on regular offer, and a selection of two or three stewed entrees change daily. On Mondays, you can find \u003cem>cau-cau\u003c/em> (tripe stew); Thursdays, \u003cem>aji de gallina\u003c/em> (stewed chicken with aji chiles); or Saturdays, \u003cem>cabrito norteño de cordero\u003c/em> (braised lamb shank). There are a few tables perched against the wall, but the prime seat is right at the counter, where you can watch Caldas work. Turned towards his food truck-sized kitchen, it is much easier to forget that you’re sitting in a small shopping mall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the particularly hot (90+ degree) day of our visit, the specials on offer were twofold: \u003cem>escabeche de pollo\u003c/em> or \u003cem>pescado\u003c/em> ($8) and \u003cem>carapulcra\u003c/em>, a stew made of pork or chicken, potatoes, chiles, and peanuts ($11.50-$12.50). Stew sounded like a terrible idea, even in the cool, breezy lobby, so we decided to sample the two specialty ceviches ($7.50 each) and the \u003cem>escabeche de pollo\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82228\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/aji-ceviche-3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/aji-ceviche-3.jpg\" alt=\"The ceviche chalaco comes tossed with sauce made from sweet-hot, yellow aji amarillo chiles. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"693\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82228\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The \u003cem>ceviche chalaco\u003c/em> comes tossed with sauce made from sweet-hot, yellow \u003cem>aji amarillo\u003c/em> chiles. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ceviches at Cholo Soy are served with plenty of sauce. Rumored to cure hangovers better than cold pizza and bacon, this tangy, bright liquor is known as \u003cem>leche de tigre\u003c/em>, or tiger’s milk. At its best, the leche is salty, tangy, and refreshing, with just enough heat to erase any lingering fatigue. At Cholo Soy, options are redolent of citrus and a faint whiff of the ocean: the classic \u003cem>ceviche de pescado\u003c/em> is lime-forward, with a hint of celery juice and fragrant cilantro, while the bright yellow \u003cem>ceviche chalaco\u003c/em> is anchored by the brilliantly sweet notes of \u003cem>aji amarillo\u003c/em> chiles. You’ll swear you taste a hint of pineapple, or else a whiff of mango.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fish, white basa from the Mekong River Delta (per the menu), is gently cured. Each thin slice is presented right after being mixed with citrus, the fish slowly transforming from translucent to opaque as it is eaten. Its flavor is mild and sweet, fully embraced by the potent sauce in which it sits. Slivers of red onion and flecks of cilantro add crunch and herbaceous freshness. Alongside each ceviche order is a small bowl of hotter-than-hot sauce (drizzle with care) and a handful of corn nuts, which shouldn’t be ignored.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82230\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/escabeche-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/escabeche-1.jpg\" alt=\"Escabeche de pollo, a Wednesday special, comes with a vinegar-and-chile braised chicken drumstick, rice, and lentils. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82230\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>Escabeche de pollo\u003c/em>, a Wednesday special, comes with a vinegar-and-chile braised chicken drumstick, rice, and lentils. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The escabeche, perhaps, lacks the glamour of the ceviche, but it is far from boring. In it, a single braised chicken drumstick sits enveloped by a tangy, vinegary sauce spiked with soft caramelized onions. This sweet and sour gravy makes its way into the crevices of the sweet steamed white rice and tender lentils. Get a bite of all of the components for the optimum balance of flavor. Once the chicken’s gone, top any rogue bites of rice and beans with a little leftover leche de tigre and slices of red onion. Delightful. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82232\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/sign-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/sign-1.jpg\" alt=\"A small sandwich board sign is the only indication of the restaurant’s presence in the Plaza Adelante. Photo: Kate Williams\" width=\"700\" height=\"1050\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82232\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A small sandwich board sign is the only indication of the restaurant’s presence in the Plaza Adelante. Photo: Kate Williams\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Depending on its country of origin, the word “cholo” can be used to characterize a range of ethnicities and heritages. In some countries, the word flirts with derogatory slur, but in Peru it is a proud descriptor of indigenous heritage. To name a restaurant “Cholo Soy” (“I am a Cholo”) is to lay claim to an historical past and assert the food’s unique distinction in a rapidly gentrifying neighborhood. The food at Cholo Soy is the food of the people — inexpensive, exciting, and soul warming. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/cholo-soy-san-francisco\">\u003cstrong>Cholo Soy\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nAddress: \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/7KozfE\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2301 Mission Street (inside Plaza Adelante)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94110\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sat 9am-4pm\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/82223/cholo-soy-a-tiny-peruvian-restaurant-in-the-mission-serves-some-of-the-best-ceviche-in-the-bay","authors":["5485"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_11079","bayareabites_13385","bayareabites_229","bayareabites_223","bayareabites_2383"],"featImg":"bayareabites_82241","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_71080":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_71080","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"71080","score":null,"sort":[1380649839000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"icy-or-spicy-cooling-foods-across-cultures","title":"Icy or Spicy? Cooling Foods Across Cultures","publishDate":1380649839,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71082\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-vs-spicy-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71082\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-vs-spicy-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"In summertime, some like it cold and some like it hot. Left photo: Managementboy, wikimedia commons; Right photo: McKay Savage, Flickr\" width=\"1000\" height=\"690\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In summertime, some like it cold and some like it hot. Left photo: Managementboy, \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Ice_cream_cone_.jpg\">wikimedia commons\u003c/a>; Right photo: McKay Savage, \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:India_-_Koyambedu_Market_-_Chili_Peppers_01_(3986954258).jpg\">wikimedia commons\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like a dripping popsicle in an overheated toddler’s hand, I’m melting in Kyoto’s sultry, summer streets. Luckily, my friend Tomoko knows the perfect thing to revive me: a cooling lunch of icy noodles at a restaurant perched atop a cascading mountain stream. The only hitch -- and part of the fun -- is that we’ll have to catch our somen noodles (with chopsticks, of course) as they whiz down the cold water rushing through a bamboo tube. \u003cem>Nagashi Somen\u003c/em> or “flowing noodles” is a traditional treat to cope with Japan’s sauna-like summers. Some families erect a backyard bamboo course to delight the kids -- \u003ca href=\"http://vimeo.com/47912950\">as in this video.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71083\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Nagashi-somen-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71083\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Nagashi-somen-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"Catch your noodles before they get away. Nagashi Somen, Kibune, Japan. Photo: Anna Mindess\" width=\"1000\" height=\"798\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Catch your noodles before they slip away. Nagashi Somen, Kibune, Japan. Photos: Anna Mindess, Tomoko Yoshihara\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Near Kyoto, \u003ca href=\"http://hirobun.co.jp/\">only one restaurant\u003c/a> serves this summertime-only, snatch-your-noodle-experience. Tomoko and I take a 20-minute train ride and a 10-minute bus ride to the village of Kibune, nestled in a forested valley. Then we walk up a narrow mountain road, past picturesque inns and high-end kaiseki restaurants set on platforms over the gushing river. Even though it’s an uphill trek to the last eating spot at the top of the path, the forest's shaded greenery, undulating thrum of cicadas and refreshing river air feels revitalizing -- plus it’s twenty degrees cooler than in the city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This popular restaurant adds a stainless steel gutter inside the traditional bamboo pipe -- perhaps for ease of cleanup or added speed? The crowd of diners are seated ten at a time at the noodle bar and treated to bracing breezes from nearby dramatic waterfalls. As the server brings us each a bowl of dipping sauce and pair of chopsticks to nab our noodles, she points out which of the several pipelines are assigned to which diners and the fun begins as slippery strands zoom by hungry patrons. Squeals of delight or frustration are heard all around, followed by murmurs of enjoyment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tomoko is seated \"downstream\" from me, so she can snag a clump of noodles if I miss it, which I do on the first round. Then she shares her strategy: stand the ends of the chopsticks in the water to act as a dainty dam. It works! My chilled nest of noodles, dipped in tangy sauce, tastes even better for having caught it. Once we all get the hang of it, the challenge is to grab your noodles, take a photo, dip and eat before the next bundle comes whizzing by. You can watch all the diners attempting this juggling act. After a dozen or so rounds, a last tangle of pink noodles silently slides by to announce the final serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On our journey back to the city, I ask Tomoko what other foods are eaten in \u003cstrong>Japan\u003c/strong>’s meltingly hot summers. Besides cold noodles (somen, \u003ca href=\"http://www.japanfoodaddict.com/noodles/hiayshi-chuka-reimen/\">reimen\u003c/a> and soba), she tells me that unagi is supposed to supply strength to withstand the withering weather. Plus cooling sweets such as \u003cem>mizu-yokan\u003c/em> (a jelly made with red adzuki beans) and shaved iced desserts like \u003cem>kakigori,\u003c/em> flavored\u003cem> \u003c/em>with green tea or other syrups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though our rare Bay Area hot spells are short and blessedly dry,” I start to wonder about \"cooling foods\" in other cultures. So I ask a few Bay Area connections to share their wisdom. (This is just a sampling of cultures. Please feel free to add your favorites).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71084\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-desserts-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71084\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-desserts-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"Sweet and Icy. Left: Halo-halo, photo: tumbler??. Center: Kakigori, photo: Chris 73, wikimedia commons. Right: Ice Kachang, photo: Anna Mindess\" width=\"1000\" height=\"430\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sweet and Icy. Left: Halo-halo, photo: \u003ca href=\"http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lju93jDC5M1qhl5rgo1_500.jpg\">tumblr\u003c/a>. Center: Kakigori, photo: Chris 73, \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Macha_kakigori_snow_cone.jpg\">wikimedia commons\u003c/a>. Right: Ice Kachang, photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Sweet and Icy\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Aileen Suzara, educator, natural chef and environmental justice advocate, who often writes about \u003cstrong>Filipino\u003c/strong> cuisine at \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchenkwento.typepad.com/\">Kitchen Kwento, \u003c/a> suggests the classic Filipino icy treat, \u003cem>halo-halo\u003c/em>, “literally a mix-mix\" with a range of possible ingredients. The layered medley may include jackfruit, kaong palm fruit, pineapple gelatin, red beans, a scoop of shaved ice, toasted rice pinipig or \u003cem>ube\u003c/em> (purple yam) ice cream, topped with evaporated milk, leche flan and strands of coconut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This reminds me of Ice Kachang, a mountain of shaved ice, doused with syrups and toppings, which I sampled \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/11/17/sweet-treats-in-food-obsessed-singapore/\">on a trip to \u003cstrong>Singapore\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, another steamy city. \u003cstrong>Korean\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Pat-bing-soo\u003c/em> also features shaved ice, topped with sweet red bean paste and mochi. And of course, even a day in the 70’s would be an excuse for San Franciscans to head over to \u003ca href=\"http://biritecreamery.com/\">Bi-Rite Creamery\u003c/a> for a scoop of their salted caramel or balsamic strawberry ice cream. Ironically, this\u003ca href=\"http://healthland.time.com/2013/06/15/surprising-foods-that-toy-with-body-temperature/\"> article in Time\u003c/a> reveals that slurping ice cream actually heats up the body, thanks to its fat content. (Oh, now I know why SF is such an ice cream-crazed city -- it makes us warmer!)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Soup (cold or hot)\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>While we’re on the subject of chilled dishes, people in many countries enjoy cold soups during the hottest months -- think \u003cstrong>Spanish\u003c/strong> gazpachos, \u003cstrong>Swedish\u003c/strong> fruit soups, and \u003cstrong>French\u003c/strong>-inspired vichyssoise. Yet, on the opposite end of the culinary continuum, diners in other cultures prefer to sip hot summer soups for their cooling properties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A recent \u003ca href=\"http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2013-07-25/features/ct-dining-0725-korean-summer-20130725_1_korean-dishes-broth-whole-bird\">article in the Chicago Tribune\u003c/a> featured \u003cstrong>Korean\u003c/strong> summer foods, like \u003cem>Sam gye tang\u003c/em> (Ginseng Chicken Soup).\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Boiled chicken in a steaming stone bowl may sound like the last thing you crave on a sweltering, 90 percent humidity afternoon. But that's exactly what Koreans line up for during the summer doldrums. Sam gye tang is young chicken or hen stuffed with glutinous rice, garlic, jujube (a prune-y maroon date), ginseng and sometimes ginger, then simmered in its own fat and juices. The two vital \"warming\" ingredients, ginseng and garlic, are meant to inject you with nutrients lost to excessive sweating, as well as regulate blood flow and metabolism.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Wok-wizard and acclaimed cookbook author, \u003ca href=\"http://www.graceyoung.com/\">Grace Young\u003c/a>, grew up in a traditional \u003cstrong>Chinese\u003c/strong> home in San Francisco. In \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Wisdom-Chinese-Kitchen-Grace-Young/dp/0684847396/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1380343667&sr=1-1&keywords=the+wisdom+of+the+chinese+kitchen\">The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen\u003c/a> she presents “the brilliant harmony of Chinese cooking” as an ingenious system to mitigate the effects of external as well as internal heat. “Unlike the Western practice of drinking iced beverages to cool the body,\" Young explains, \"hot soups are often drunk in the summer in China.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Young includes recipes her mother and aunt would routinely make during hot weather, including Herbal Winter Melon Soup with adzuki beans, and Soybean and Sparerib Soup with ginger. She explains that these soups are \"tonics\" and sipped for their healing properties, rather than consumed as a meal. Young recalls that growing up in her Cantonese family's home, a bowl or two was drunk at mealtimes, in place of water, milk or soda. She also notes that these “yin-yang concoctions” are \"an acquired taste\" and change with the seasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Heat from Spice is Nice\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>It’s not just the warm temperature of the food, but the heat from spices (especially peppers) that many cultures employ to beat the heat. Vinita Jacinto, chef and cooking teacher, who writes at \u003ca href=\"http://spicewhisperer.wordpress.com/\">The Spice Whisperer\u003c/a> shares that in \u003cstrong>India\u003c/strong>, certain herbs and spices (like cumin and cayenne) promote perspiration to naturally cool the body. \"Spicy food is a natural way to keep cool in the tropics,\" she says. One of her favorite hot weather beverages is \u003cem> Jal-Jeera, \u003c/em>a spiced lemonade she prepares with toasted cumin powder, mint, cilantro, black salt and raw sugar or agave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71087\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/spice-whisperer-collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71087\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/spice-whisperer-collage.jpg\" alt=\"Vinita Jacinto, the Spice Whisperer\" width=\"1000\" height=\"608\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vinita Jacinto, the Spice Whisperer, photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Because of its replenishing, high water content, watermelon is a natural hot weather favorite around the world. Jacinto amps up watermelon's cooling capabilities by sprinkling chunks of fruit with a mixture of dry mango powder, black salt, ginger powder and garnishing with chopped mint. An additional summer drink she suggests is a salted buttermilk lassi with toasted cumin and muddled mint. \"Its protein fights off heat exhaustion as it rehydrates the body,\" counsels Jacinto.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another devotee of the power of peppers is Nico Vera, who chronicles the drinks and cuisine of \u003cstrong>Peru\u003c/strong> in his blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.piscotrail.com/\">Pisco Trail\u003c/a>. \"During Peruvian summers [November-March], when Lima is hot and humid,\" Vera says, “the most cooling dish for lunch is ceviche: fresh fish, lime juice, onions, salt, hot peppers, and a cold beer make quite the combination. I suspect that the hot peppers also act as cooling agents, in that they make one perspire and cool off.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71086\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/ceviche-nikkei.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71086\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/ceviche-nikkei.jpg\" alt=\"Japanese inspired Peruvian Ceviche by Nico Vera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Japanese inspired Peruvian Ceviche, photo by Nico Vera\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Traveling full circle back to Japan, Vera comments that, “Peru has a tremendous abundance and variety of fish. But not until the arrival of the Japanese 100 years ago, did Peruvians truly become interested in seafood. Thanks in large part to their profound appreciation for fish, the Japanese transformed how Peruvians prepared and ate Ceviche, making it one of Peru’s most culturally significant dishes.” \u003ca href=\"http://www.piscotrail.com/2011/07/02/recipes/ceviche-nikkei/\">Here is his recipe\u003c/a> for Ceviche Nikkei.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With our quirky Bay Area weather patterns, we often get our warmest days in early fall, so you might just want to keep some ice and spice handy.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"While the Bay Area doesn't get the swoon-inducing heat and humidity of Japan, Peru, India or the Philippines, we can still partake of their edible solutions for cooling relief. Some like it cold and icy with mounds of shaved ice doused with syrups, while others turn to peppers and spice to induce a natural cooling response.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1380719045,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":1562},"headData":{"title":"Icy or Spicy? Cooling Foods Across Cultures | KQED","description":"While the Bay Area doesn't get the swoon-inducing heat and humidity of Japan, Peru, India or the Philippines, we can still partake of their edible solutions for cooling relief. Some like it cold and icy with mounds of shaved ice doused with syrups, while others turn to peppers and spice to induce a natural cooling response.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Icy or Spicy? Cooling Foods Across Cultures","datePublished":"2013-10-01T17:50:39.000Z","dateModified":"2013-10-02T13:04:05.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"71080 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=71080","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/10/01/icy-or-spicy-cooling-foods-across-cultures/","disqusTitle":"Icy or Spicy? Cooling Foods Across Cultures","path":"/bayareabites/71080/icy-or-spicy-cooling-foods-across-cultures","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71082\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-vs-spicy-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71082\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-vs-spicy-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"In summertime, some like it cold and some like it hot. Left photo: Managementboy, wikimedia commons; Right photo: McKay Savage, Flickr\" width=\"1000\" height=\"690\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In summertime, some like it cold and some like it hot. Left photo: Managementboy, \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Ice_cream_cone_.jpg\">wikimedia commons\u003c/a>; Right photo: McKay Savage, \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:India_-_Koyambedu_Market_-_Chili_Peppers_01_(3986954258).jpg\">wikimedia commons\u003c/a>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like a dripping popsicle in an overheated toddler’s hand, I’m melting in Kyoto’s sultry, summer streets. Luckily, my friend Tomoko knows the perfect thing to revive me: a cooling lunch of icy noodles at a restaurant perched atop a cascading mountain stream. The only hitch -- and part of the fun -- is that we’ll have to catch our somen noodles (with chopsticks, of course) as they whiz down the cold water rushing through a bamboo tube. \u003cem>Nagashi Somen\u003c/em> or “flowing noodles” is a traditional treat to cope with Japan’s sauna-like summers. Some families erect a backyard bamboo course to delight the kids -- \u003ca href=\"http://vimeo.com/47912950\">as in this video.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71083\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Nagashi-somen-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71083\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/Nagashi-somen-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"Catch your noodles before they get away. Nagashi Somen, Kibune, Japan. Photo: Anna Mindess\" width=\"1000\" height=\"798\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Catch your noodles before they slip away. Nagashi Somen, Kibune, Japan. Photos: Anna Mindess, Tomoko Yoshihara\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Near Kyoto, \u003ca href=\"http://hirobun.co.jp/\">only one restaurant\u003c/a> serves this summertime-only, snatch-your-noodle-experience. Tomoko and I take a 20-minute train ride and a 10-minute bus ride to the village of Kibune, nestled in a forested valley. Then we walk up a narrow mountain road, past picturesque inns and high-end kaiseki restaurants set on platforms over the gushing river. Even though it’s an uphill trek to the last eating spot at the top of the path, the forest's shaded greenery, undulating thrum of cicadas and refreshing river air feels revitalizing -- plus it’s twenty degrees cooler than in the city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This popular restaurant adds a stainless steel gutter inside the traditional bamboo pipe -- perhaps for ease of cleanup or added speed? The crowd of diners are seated ten at a time at the noodle bar and treated to bracing breezes from nearby dramatic waterfalls. As the server brings us each a bowl of dipping sauce and pair of chopsticks to nab our noodles, she points out which of the several pipelines are assigned to which diners and the fun begins as slippery strands zoom by hungry patrons. Squeals of delight or frustration are heard all around, followed by murmurs of enjoyment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tomoko is seated \"downstream\" from me, so she can snag a clump of noodles if I miss it, which I do on the first round. Then she shares her strategy: stand the ends of the chopsticks in the water to act as a dainty dam. It works! My chilled nest of noodles, dipped in tangy sauce, tastes even better for having caught it. Once we all get the hang of it, the challenge is to grab your noodles, take a photo, dip and eat before the next bundle comes whizzing by. You can watch all the diners attempting this juggling act. After a dozen or so rounds, a last tangle of pink noodles silently slides by to announce the final serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On our journey back to the city, I ask Tomoko what other foods are eaten in \u003cstrong>Japan\u003c/strong>’s meltingly hot summers. Besides cold noodles (somen, \u003ca href=\"http://www.japanfoodaddict.com/noodles/hiayshi-chuka-reimen/\">reimen\u003c/a> and soba), she tells me that unagi is supposed to supply strength to withstand the withering weather. Plus cooling sweets such as \u003cem>mizu-yokan\u003c/em> (a jelly made with red adzuki beans) and shaved iced desserts like \u003cem>kakigori,\u003c/em> flavored\u003cem> \u003c/em>with green tea or other syrups.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even though our rare Bay Area hot spells are short and blessedly dry,” I start to wonder about \"cooling foods\" in other cultures. So I ask a few Bay Area connections to share their wisdom. (This is just a sampling of cultures. Please feel free to add your favorites).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71084\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-desserts-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71084\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/icy-desserts-Collage.jpg\" alt=\"Sweet and Icy. Left: Halo-halo, photo: tumbler??. Center: Kakigori, photo: Chris 73, wikimedia commons. Right: Ice Kachang, photo: Anna Mindess\" width=\"1000\" height=\"430\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sweet and Icy. Left: Halo-halo, photo: \u003ca href=\"http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lju93jDC5M1qhl5rgo1_500.jpg\">tumblr\u003c/a>. Center: Kakigori, photo: Chris 73, \u003ca href=\"http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Macha_kakigori_snow_cone.jpg\">wikimedia commons\u003c/a>. Right: Ice Kachang, photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Sweet and Icy\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Aileen Suzara, educator, natural chef and environmental justice advocate, who often writes about \u003cstrong>Filipino\u003c/strong> cuisine at \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchenkwento.typepad.com/\">Kitchen Kwento, \u003c/a> suggests the classic Filipino icy treat, \u003cem>halo-halo\u003c/em>, “literally a mix-mix\" with a range of possible ingredients. The layered medley may include jackfruit, kaong palm fruit, pineapple gelatin, red beans, a scoop of shaved ice, toasted rice pinipig or \u003cem>ube\u003c/em> (purple yam) ice cream, topped with evaporated milk, leche flan and strands of coconut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This reminds me of Ice Kachang, a mountain of shaved ice, doused with syrups and toppings, which I sampled \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/11/17/sweet-treats-in-food-obsessed-singapore/\">on a trip to \u003cstrong>Singapore\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, another steamy city. \u003cstrong>Korean\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Pat-bing-soo\u003c/em> also features shaved ice, topped with sweet red bean paste and mochi. And of course, even a day in the 70’s would be an excuse for San Franciscans to head over to \u003ca href=\"http://biritecreamery.com/\">Bi-Rite Creamery\u003c/a> for a scoop of their salted caramel or balsamic strawberry ice cream. Ironically, this\u003ca href=\"http://healthland.time.com/2013/06/15/surprising-foods-that-toy-with-body-temperature/\"> article in Time\u003c/a> reveals that slurping ice cream actually heats up the body, thanks to its fat content. (Oh, now I know why SF is such an ice cream-crazed city -- it makes us warmer!)\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Soup (cold or hot)\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>While we’re on the subject of chilled dishes, people in many countries enjoy cold soups during the hottest months -- think \u003cstrong>Spanish\u003c/strong> gazpachos, \u003cstrong>Swedish\u003c/strong> fruit soups, and \u003cstrong>French\u003c/strong>-inspired vichyssoise. Yet, on the opposite end of the culinary continuum, diners in other cultures prefer to sip hot summer soups for their cooling properties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A recent \u003ca href=\"http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2013-07-25/features/ct-dining-0725-korean-summer-20130725_1_korean-dishes-broth-whole-bird\">article in the Chicago Tribune\u003c/a> featured \u003cstrong>Korean\u003c/strong> summer foods, like \u003cem>Sam gye tang\u003c/em> (Ginseng Chicken Soup).\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Boiled chicken in a steaming stone bowl may sound like the last thing you crave on a sweltering, 90 percent humidity afternoon. But that's exactly what Koreans line up for during the summer doldrums. Sam gye tang is young chicken or hen stuffed with glutinous rice, garlic, jujube (a prune-y maroon date), ginseng and sometimes ginger, then simmered in its own fat and juices. The two vital \"warming\" ingredients, ginseng and garlic, are meant to inject you with nutrients lost to excessive sweating, as well as regulate blood flow and metabolism.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Wok-wizard and acclaimed cookbook author, \u003ca href=\"http://www.graceyoung.com/\">Grace Young\u003c/a>, grew up in a traditional \u003cstrong>Chinese\u003c/strong> home in San Francisco. In \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Wisdom-Chinese-Kitchen-Grace-Young/dp/0684847396/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1380343667&sr=1-1&keywords=the+wisdom+of+the+chinese+kitchen\">The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen\u003c/a> she presents “the brilliant harmony of Chinese cooking” as an ingenious system to mitigate the effects of external as well as internal heat. “Unlike the Western practice of drinking iced beverages to cool the body,\" Young explains, \"hot soups are often drunk in the summer in China.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Young includes recipes her mother and aunt would routinely make during hot weather, including Herbal Winter Melon Soup with adzuki beans, and Soybean and Sparerib Soup with ginger. She explains that these soups are \"tonics\" and sipped for their healing properties, rather than consumed as a meal. Young recalls that growing up in her Cantonese family's home, a bowl or two was drunk at mealtimes, in place of water, milk or soda. She also notes that these “yin-yang concoctions” are \"an acquired taste\" and change with the seasons.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Heat from Spice is Nice\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>It’s not just the warm temperature of the food, but the heat from spices (especially peppers) that many cultures employ to beat the heat. Vinita Jacinto, chef and cooking teacher, who writes at \u003ca href=\"http://spicewhisperer.wordpress.com/\">The Spice Whisperer\u003c/a> shares that in \u003cstrong>India\u003c/strong>, certain herbs and spices (like cumin and cayenne) promote perspiration to naturally cool the body. \"Spicy food is a natural way to keep cool in the tropics,\" she says. One of her favorite hot weather beverages is \u003cem> Jal-Jeera, \u003c/em>a spiced lemonade she prepares with toasted cumin powder, mint, cilantro, black salt and raw sugar or agave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71087\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/spice-whisperer-collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71087\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/spice-whisperer-collage.jpg\" alt=\"Vinita Jacinto, the Spice Whisperer\" width=\"1000\" height=\"608\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vinita Jacinto, the Spice Whisperer, photo: Anna Mindess\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Because of its replenishing, high water content, watermelon is a natural hot weather favorite around the world. Jacinto amps up watermelon's cooling capabilities by sprinkling chunks of fruit with a mixture of dry mango powder, black salt, ginger powder and garnishing with chopped mint. An additional summer drink she suggests is a salted buttermilk lassi with toasted cumin and muddled mint. \"Its protein fights off heat exhaustion as it rehydrates the body,\" counsels Jacinto.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another devotee of the power of peppers is Nico Vera, who chronicles the drinks and cuisine of \u003cstrong>Peru\u003c/strong> in his blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.piscotrail.com/\">Pisco Trail\u003c/a>. \"During Peruvian summers [November-March], when Lima is hot and humid,\" Vera says, “the most cooling dish for lunch is ceviche: fresh fish, lime juice, onions, salt, hot peppers, and a cold beer make quite the combination. I suspect that the hot peppers also act as cooling agents, in that they make one perspire and cool off.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71086\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/ceviche-nikkei.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-71086\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/ceviche-nikkei.jpg\" alt=\"Japanese inspired Peruvian Ceviche by Nico Vera\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Japanese inspired Peruvian Ceviche, photo by Nico Vera\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Traveling full circle back to Japan, Vera comments that, “Peru has a tremendous abundance and variety of fish. But not until the arrival of the Japanese 100 years ago, did Peruvians truly become interested in seafood. Thanks in large part to their profound appreciation for fish, the Japanese transformed how Peruvians prepared and ate Ceviche, making it one of Peru’s most culturally significant dishes.” \u003ca href=\"http://www.piscotrail.com/2011/07/02/recipes/ceviche-nikkei/\">Here is his recipe\u003c/a> for Ceviche Nikkei.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With our quirky Bay Area weather patterns, we often get our warmest days in early fall, so you might just want to keep some ice and spice handy.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/71080/icy-or-spicy-cooling-foods-across-cultures","authors":["5283"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_10737","bayareabites_11079","bayareabites_12457","bayareabites_12467","bayareabites_12459","bayareabites_989","bayareabites_10422","bayareabites_12468","bayareabites_3588","bayareabites_11397","bayareabites_8288","bayareabites_12469","bayareabites_12470","bayareabites_10163"],"featImg":"bayareabites_71386","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_54890":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_54890","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"54890","score":null,"sort":[1358971250000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"mazatlan-throws-an-endless-seafood-fiesta","title":"Mazatlán Throws an Endless Seafood Fiesta ","publishDate":1358971250,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54900\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/victor-on-beach2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54900\" alt=\"Victor, the oyster man\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/victor-on-beach2.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Victor, the oyster man\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s early morning and I’m perched on a plastic stool near Mazatlán’s stunning seashore, squeezing lime juice on a plate of oysters that were awakened--rather rudely, I suppose--from their oyster beds only moments ago. Victor, the proprietor of this makeshift beachside oyster bar, squats on a rock, shucks the freshly caught oysters and serves them on paper plates with cut limes and bottles of hot sauce. He has worked these waters for the past 33 years with his brothers, uncles, nephews and cousins, as his father did for 52 years. I learn this through the interpreting skills of my friend Dianne, an American who has called Mazatlán home for the past five years. As we slurp our oysters, Victor tells us that since the emptied shells have larva on them, they return them to the ocean to regenerate a new harvest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54904\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/oyster-diver1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54904\" alt=\"oyster diver\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/oyster-diver1.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">oyster diver\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The divers, some of whom wear wet suits, take floating inner tubes fitted with nets out into the sea and armed with sharp tools, dive down to the oyster reefs to harvest the shellfish, while holding their breath. When their nets are full, they trudge back onto shore with 50 kilos of scratchy shells on their backs and fill large mesh bags with shellfish that will be sold wholesale to restaurants. Also benefiting from their catch are lucky customers like us who walk up to enjoy the freshest oysters in the world for less than 50 cents each.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54914\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/ceviche2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54914\" alt=\"ceviche with lime\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/ceviche2.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">ceviche with lime\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Later, during brunch at the restaurant of my hotel, the gorgeous \u003ca href=\"http://www.pueblobonito-mazatlan.com/\">El Pueblo Bonito\u003c/a>, we begin with mimosas and shot glasses of fresh shrimp ceviche. As soon as I place my purse on the floor, however, a pleasant server rushes over with what looks like a very short coat rack and indicates that this is the place my purse should go. Dianne, an intercultural consultant who has lived all over the world and is the founder of a training program called \u003ca href=\"http://www.culturaldetective.com/\">Cultural Detective\u003c/a>, knows there’s a cultural reason behind this action. “It’s bad luck, isn’t it?” she gently prompts the server, who confides, “Yes, if you put your purse on the floor, all the money will run out.” From then on, I am on the lookout for more \u003cem>percheros\u003c/em> and find most restaurants provide them in styles to match their décor (simple white wood, gleaming aluminum, wrought iron or bright turquoise curlicues).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54907\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/pelican1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54907\" alt=\"pelicans wait for lunch\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/pelican1.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">pelicans wait for lunch\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fortified, we're off to visit some fish markets. Dianne and her husband Greg take me to the simply named Mercado de Mariscos, a basic strip of concrete stands near the docks that the fishermen share with about a hundred pelicans. While the freshly caught fish are gutted and cleaned, pelicans clamor for the scraps they know are coming. The fish laid out here are mostly bought by local residents (not a tourist in sight).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54908\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/fish-market1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54908\" alt=\"Mercado de Mariscos\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/fish-market1.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mercado de Mariscos\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then we head downtown to the large indoor market called \u003cem>Pino Suárez.\u003c/em> On the way, I can’t resist some neon-hued coconut candy from a street vendor’s cart, which we all munch on while perusing the market's many stands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54909\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/coconut-candy.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54909\" alt=\"coconut candy\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/coconut-candy.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">coconut candy\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Underneath gaily dancing piñatas, shops sell all manner of spices, seeds, nuts, fresh cheeses, kitchen goods and dishes, more coconut candies and cones of \u003cem>piloncillo\u003c/em> (Mexican brown sugar). We get tastes of the huge orange slabs of smoked marlin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54910\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/smoked-marlin.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54910\" alt=\"smoked marlin\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/smoked-marlin.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">smoked marlin\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The next day, we take a non-fish related excursion to \u003ca href=\"http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g1104120-d2643850-Reviews-Piedras_Las_Labradas_Petroglyphs-Sinaloa_Pacific_Coast.html\">Las Labradas\u003c/a>, a UNESCO world heritage site and clamber over boulders to see the ancient petroglyphs carved on volcanic rocks that line the shore 30 miles north of Maztalan. No one has yet deciphered the meanings of the 600 water-worn, thousand-year old carvings, but like the petroglyph fields I visited \u003ca href=\"http://www.letsgo-hawaii.com/big-island-hawaii-petroglyphs/\">in Hawaii\u003c/a>, they exude a special energy. Dianne tells me that the spring equinox is celebrated here by traditional \u003ca href=\"http://vidamaz.com/2012/03/17/deer-dances-in-las-labradas-on-the-spring-equinox/\">dances from a group of Indians\u003c/a> who wear deer headdresses (\u003cem>Mazatlán\u003c/em> is a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nahuatl\">Nahuatl\u003c/a> word for \"place of the deer\").\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54918\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/petroglyphs1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54918\" alt=\"petroglyphs\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/petroglyphs1.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">petroglyphs\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A group of us have lunch at \u003ca href=\"http://www.restaurantlosarcos.com/en/\">Los Arcos\u003c/a> -- a cheery seafood restaurant where shrimp is queen. The meal starts with appetizer platters heaped with fresh shrimp, octopus, chunky scallops, and ceviche with lime. (I notice that lemons are nowhere to be found in Mazatlán but tiny, tangy limes are a tasty substitute.) We all order variations on the shrimp theme: deep fried \"seahorses\" stuffed with cream cheese and breaded with coconut, shrimp in mango sauce, tamarind sauce, spicy red or green sauces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54919\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/shrimp-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54919\" alt=\"shrimp and more shrimp\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/shrimp-Collage.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">shrimp and more shrimp\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After touring some artists' galleries and a nice siesta, we meet for dinner at \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/lacostamarinera\">La Costa Marinera\u003c/a>, a festive spot where Dianne and Greg held their wedding rehearsal dinner many years ago. Their specialty is a \u003cem>mariscada\u003c/em> seafood platter served atop a large, pig-shaped clay pot that keeps the food warm. We enjoy grilled shrimp, oysters diabla, lobster, dorado filets, frogs legs, accompanied by a singing waiter and large pink margaritas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54921\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/shrimp-ladies-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54921\" alt=\"shrimp ladies of Mazatlan\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/shrimp-ladies-Collage.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">shrimp ladies of Mazatlan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On my last morning in Mazatlán, Dianne and Greg take me to the visit the \"Shrimp Ladies\" -- \u003cem>Changueras\u003c/em> -- whose colorful umbrellas line a street called \u003cem>Aquiles Serdán\u003c/em>. Tubs and tubs of brown shrimp, blue shrimp, white shrimp, fresh water, deep-ocean and farmed shrimp are kept cool with large chunks of floating ice. Maria del la Paz has been working on this street for 30 years and arrives daily at 3am to buy her shrimp from the fishermen; then sells her wares to housewives and restaurant owners until 7 or 8pm. As her experienced fingers peel shrimp at lightning speed, she tells us that her father also sold shrimp and she hopes her daughters will soon get a coveted spot at this shrimp shopping center.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dianne mentions that ordering a “shrimp tamale” will get you a masa-encased shrimp with head, legs and shell, which you are expected to eat. She has learned to order a tamale “gringa style” to have it peeled first. Greg points out the establishment across the street where you take your freshly purchased shrimp and have them prepared to order, so we pick out a few dozen shrimp and enter the diner that is still empty this early in the morning. (Greg says at night it’s a guy-hangout filled with boisterous men with beer). After ordering one plate of garlic shrimp and another \u003cem>a la diabla\u003c/em>, the welcoming aroma of garlic quickly fills the dining room as we see flames leap around the pan on the range. I toast my friends and thank them for showing me a little of their Mazatlán--a seafood-lover’s paradise, thanks to more than 20 miles of beaches, the ocean’s generous bounty and the labors of all the unsung oystermen and shrimp ladies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(\u003cem>Full disclosure: The writer was a guest in Mazatlán courtesy of the Sinaloa Tourism Office\u003c/em>)\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Anna Mindess discovered the world's freshest oysters and a street lined with shrimp sellers in Mazatlán.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1359480260,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":14,"wordCount":1200},"headData":{"title":"Mazatlán Throws an Endless Seafood Fiesta | KQED","description":"Anna Mindess discovered the world's freshest oysters and a street lined with shrimp sellers in Mazatlán.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Mazatlán Throws an Endless Seafood Fiesta ","datePublished":"2013-01-23T20:00:50.000Z","dateModified":"2013-01-29T17:24:20.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"54890 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=54890","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/01/23/mazatlan-throws-an-endless-seafood-fiesta/","disqusTitle":"Mazatlán Throws an Endless Seafood Fiesta ","path":"/bayareabites/54890/mazatlan-throws-an-endless-seafood-fiesta","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54900\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/victor-on-beach2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54900\" alt=\"Victor, the oyster man\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/victor-on-beach2.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Victor, the oyster man\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s early morning and I’m perched on a plastic stool near Mazatlán’s stunning seashore, squeezing lime juice on a plate of oysters that were awakened--rather rudely, I suppose--from their oyster beds only moments ago. Victor, the proprietor of this makeshift beachside oyster bar, squats on a rock, shucks the freshly caught oysters and serves them on paper plates with cut limes and bottles of hot sauce. He has worked these waters for the past 33 years with his brothers, uncles, nephews and cousins, as his father did for 52 years. I learn this through the interpreting skills of my friend Dianne, an American who has called Mazatlán home for the past five years. As we slurp our oysters, Victor tells us that since the emptied shells have larva on them, they return them to the ocean to regenerate a new harvest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54904\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/oyster-diver1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54904\" alt=\"oyster diver\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/oyster-diver1.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">oyster diver\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The divers, some of whom wear wet suits, take floating inner tubes fitted with nets out into the sea and armed with sharp tools, dive down to the oyster reefs to harvest the shellfish, while holding their breath. When their nets are full, they trudge back onto shore with 50 kilos of scratchy shells on their backs and fill large mesh bags with shellfish that will be sold wholesale to restaurants. Also benefiting from their catch are lucky customers like us who walk up to enjoy the freshest oysters in the world for less than 50 cents each.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54914\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/ceviche2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54914\" alt=\"ceviche with lime\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/ceviche2.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">ceviche with lime\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Later, during brunch at the restaurant of my hotel, the gorgeous \u003ca href=\"http://www.pueblobonito-mazatlan.com/\">El Pueblo Bonito\u003c/a>, we begin with mimosas and shot glasses of fresh shrimp ceviche. As soon as I place my purse on the floor, however, a pleasant server rushes over with what looks like a very short coat rack and indicates that this is the place my purse should go. Dianne, an intercultural consultant who has lived all over the world and is the founder of a training program called \u003ca href=\"http://www.culturaldetective.com/\">Cultural Detective\u003c/a>, knows there’s a cultural reason behind this action. “It’s bad luck, isn’t it?” she gently prompts the server, who confides, “Yes, if you put your purse on the floor, all the money will run out.” From then on, I am on the lookout for more \u003cem>percheros\u003c/em> and find most restaurants provide them in styles to match their décor (simple white wood, gleaming aluminum, wrought iron or bright turquoise curlicues).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54907\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/pelican1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54907\" alt=\"pelicans wait for lunch\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/pelican1.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">pelicans wait for lunch\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fortified, we're off to visit some fish markets. Dianne and her husband Greg take me to the simply named Mercado de Mariscos, a basic strip of concrete stands near the docks that the fishermen share with about a hundred pelicans. While the freshly caught fish are gutted and cleaned, pelicans clamor for the scraps they know are coming. The fish laid out here are mostly bought by local residents (not a tourist in sight).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54908\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/fish-market1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54908\" alt=\"Mercado de Mariscos\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/fish-market1.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mercado de Mariscos\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then we head downtown to the large indoor market called \u003cem>Pino Suárez.\u003c/em> On the way, I can’t resist some neon-hued coconut candy from a street vendor’s cart, which we all munch on while perusing the market's many stands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54909\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/coconut-candy.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54909\" alt=\"coconut candy\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/coconut-candy.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">coconut candy\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Underneath gaily dancing piñatas, shops sell all manner of spices, seeds, nuts, fresh cheeses, kitchen goods and dishes, more coconut candies and cones of \u003cem>piloncillo\u003c/em> (Mexican brown sugar). We get tastes of the huge orange slabs of smoked marlin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54910\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/smoked-marlin.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54910\" alt=\"smoked marlin\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/smoked-marlin.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">smoked marlin\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The next day, we take a non-fish related excursion to \u003ca href=\"http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g1104120-d2643850-Reviews-Piedras_Las_Labradas_Petroglyphs-Sinaloa_Pacific_Coast.html\">Las Labradas\u003c/a>, a UNESCO world heritage site and clamber over boulders to see the ancient petroglyphs carved on volcanic rocks that line the shore 30 miles north of Maztalan. No one has yet deciphered the meanings of the 600 water-worn, thousand-year old carvings, but like the petroglyph fields I visited \u003ca href=\"http://www.letsgo-hawaii.com/big-island-hawaii-petroglyphs/\">in Hawaii\u003c/a>, they exude a special energy. Dianne tells me that the spring equinox is celebrated here by traditional \u003ca href=\"http://vidamaz.com/2012/03/17/deer-dances-in-las-labradas-on-the-spring-equinox/\">dances from a group of Indians\u003c/a> who wear deer headdresses (\u003cem>Mazatlán\u003c/em> is a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nahuatl\">Nahuatl\u003c/a> word for \"place of the deer\").\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54918\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/petroglyphs1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54918\" alt=\"petroglyphs\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/petroglyphs1.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">petroglyphs\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A group of us have lunch at \u003ca href=\"http://www.restaurantlosarcos.com/en/\">Los Arcos\u003c/a> -- a cheery seafood restaurant where shrimp is queen. The meal starts with appetizer platters heaped with fresh shrimp, octopus, chunky scallops, and ceviche with lime. (I notice that lemons are nowhere to be found in Mazatlán but tiny, tangy limes are a tasty substitute.) We all order variations on the shrimp theme: deep fried \"seahorses\" stuffed with cream cheese and breaded with coconut, shrimp in mango sauce, tamarind sauce, spicy red or green sauces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54919\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/shrimp-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54919\" alt=\"shrimp and more shrimp\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/shrimp-Collage.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">shrimp and more shrimp\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After touring some artists' galleries and a nice siesta, we meet for dinner at \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/lacostamarinera\">La Costa Marinera\u003c/a>, a festive spot where Dianne and Greg held their wedding rehearsal dinner many years ago. Their specialty is a \u003cem>mariscada\u003c/em> seafood platter served atop a large, pig-shaped clay pot that keeps the food warm. We enjoy grilled shrimp, oysters diabla, lobster, dorado filets, frogs legs, accompanied by a singing waiter and large pink margaritas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54921\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/shrimp-ladies-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54921\" alt=\"shrimp ladies of Mazatlan\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/shrimp-ladies-Collage.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">shrimp ladies of Mazatlan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On my last morning in Mazatlán, Dianne and Greg take me to the visit the \"Shrimp Ladies\" -- \u003cem>Changueras\u003c/em> -- whose colorful umbrellas line a street called \u003cem>Aquiles Serdán\u003c/em>. Tubs and tubs of brown shrimp, blue shrimp, white shrimp, fresh water, deep-ocean and farmed shrimp are kept cool with large chunks of floating ice. Maria del la Paz has been working on this street for 30 years and arrives daily at 3am to buy her shrimp from the fishermen; then sells her wares to housewives and restaurant owners until 7 or 8pm. As her experienced fingers peel shrimp at lightning speed, she tells us that her father also sold shrimp and she hopes her daughters will soon get a coveted spot at this shrimp shopping center.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dianne mentions that ordering a “shrimp tamale” will get you a masa-encased shrimp with head, legs and shell, which you are expected to eat. She has learned to order a tamale “gringa style” to have it peeled first. Greg points out the establishment across the street where you take your freshly purchased shrimp and have them prepared to order, so we pick out a few dozen shrimp and enter the diner that is still empty this early in the morning. (Greg says at night it’s a guy-hangout filled with boisterous men with beer). After ordering one plate of garlic shrimp and another \u003cem>a la diabla\u003c/em>, the welcoming aroma of garlic quickly fills the dining room as we see flames leap around the pan on the range. I toast my friends and thank them for showing me a little of their Mazatlán--a seafood-lover’s paradise, thanks to more than 20 miles of beaches, the ocean’s generous bounty and the labors of all the unsung oystermen and shrimp ladies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(\u003cem>Full disclosure: The writer was a guest in Mazatlán courtesy of the Sinaloa Tourism Office\u003c/em>)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/54890/mazatlan-throws-an-endless-seafood-fiesta","authors":["5283"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_181","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_11079","bayareabites_9269","bayareabites_11068","bayareabites_2561","bayareabites_1021","bayareabites_323","bayareabites_864"],"featImg":"bayareabites_55038","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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