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Screenshot: Epicurious\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74715\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Judy Rodgers, chef-owner of Zuni Cafe.\u003cbr>Screenshot: Epicurious\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Do you remember your first time at \u003ca href=\"http://www.zunicafe.com/\">Zuni Cafe\u003c/a>? Maybe, like me, you walked through the glass doors and up to the always-lively bar in the early 1990s, when the city was still recovering from the seismic upheaval of both the Loma Prieta earthquake and a national economic crash. Maybe you found solace there just after the earthquake, when $4 bowls of polenta kept the lights on. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps you watched the morning sun slant through the tall glass windows overlooking Market Street during the years when the cafe was serving breakfast, as peaceful, often solo customers started the day with bowls of cafe au lait, buttery scones, and \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herb_Caen\">Herb Caen\u003c/a> in the pages of the Chronicle. Innumerable birthdays, weddings, engagements, anniversaries, and festivities were celebrated there, over the butcher-papered tables, with mahogany-skinned roast chickens for two, with fresh oysters and cracked Dungeness crab, with Caesar salad, shoestring fries, espresso granita, and huge hunks of Acme levain bread and butter that tasted better there than anywhere else. Zuni Cafe was that rare bird, a confident, welcoming San Francisco restaurant that didn't change, yet still managed to feel as fresh, as relevant, as perfectly just-right-now as it did ten, twenty, even twenty-five years ago. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Zuni Café will live on. But its guiding light, its chef, owner, and perfectionist visionary Judy Rodgers, an icon of California cuisine, is gone. Rodgers, 57, passed away today. In 2004, Rodgers was named Outstanding Chef in America by the James Beard Foundation; Zuni Cafe won the James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant in America in 2003. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/zunicookbook.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/zunicookbook.jpg\" alt=\"The Zuni Cafe Cookbook: A Compendium of Recipes and Cooking Lessons from San Francisco's Beloved Restaurant. Author: Judy Rogers\" width=\"260\" height=\"324\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-74719\">\u003c/a>Rodgers put the sharp, inquisitive, and knowledge-seeking mind that had earned her a degree in art history at Stanford to great use as a chef and author. As she detailed in her James Beard Award-winning book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0393020436/kqedorg-20\">The Zuni Cafe Cookbook\u003c/a>, she got her start as a curious 16 year old exchange student in 1973, spending a year with Troisgros family (who were friends of a neighbor of Rodgers' back home in St. Louis) who just happened to run Les Freres Troisgros in Rouen, then one of the most renowned restaurants in France. The lessons she learned there--of unstinting quality of ingredients matched with careful thriftiness, of perfection in simplicity, of pride in craft--would remain with her throughout her working life. She took the lessons she learned in that French kitchen and made them the basis for her particular kind of California cuisine, one rooted in French attitudes towards \u003cem>terroir\u003c/em> and quality yet inspired by the ever more finely tuned seasonal abundance of Northern California's farms, ranches, fisheries, vineyards, and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1977, she started cooking professionally as the lunch chef at Alice Waters' then six-year-old restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a>. Two years later, she returned to France to cook at a small restaurant in the southwest, then relearned American food at the Union Hotel in Benicia with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/07/12/waffles-for-marion-cunningham/\">Marion Cunningham\u003c/a>. In 1983, she traveled to Italy to live, learn, and eat, falling in love with the foods and history of Tuscany. By 1987, after a brief stint cooking in New York City, she became the chef at Zuni, a once-Southwestern restaurant that morphed under her influence into the French-Italian-Californian hybrid it remains today. With its wedge-shaped corner footprint between Franklin and Gough, Zuni was convenient to City Hall, the opera, the ballet, and the symphony, as well as to the scruffier aspects of Market Street. Walking down Rose Alley behind the restaurant, you could catch sight of Rodgers under the fluorescent lights of the kitchen, slim and intense, her bright blue eyes missing nothing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the late 1990s, when I worked as an assistant cookbook editor at Chronicle Books, Rodgers came to us for a meeting about a possible Zuni cookbook. With her lengthy proposal in hand, the first question we had to ask was, had she written the text herself? Her proposal was meticulously crafted, with a well-shaped, well-written storyline that was equal parts personal memoir, California culinary history, and useful kitchen know-how, plus finely detailed but followable recipes for all of Zuni's best dishes. I'm not exaggerating to say that it was better than most finished books, and much better even than most professionally-ghostwritten or co-authored chef's books. It was hard to believe that Rodgers, known for her focused attention to all the night-after-night details at her restaurant, could have found the time to write so much of such a good book. Yet she had. Chronicle passed on the proposal, but I stealthily photocopied my copy and brought it home to use. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the book came out, published by W. W. Norton in 2002, I was unsurprised to see that much of it was word-for-word from the original proposal. Rodgers' voice, Rodgers' knowledge, suffused every page. The recipe for Zuni's famous Caesar Salad took up two and a half pages. It wasn't because the recipe was so complex--it was nothing fancier than romaine lettuce, croutons, and Parmesan, dressed in a red wine vinaigrette enriched with eggs and flavored with lemon, garlic and anchovy--but because she wanted her readers to understand her mind-set, to pay attention to the nuances of every ingredient and to bring them together in a mindful way. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing was set in stone; every day in the kitchen started fresh, with ingredients that were inevitably a little different from the day before. As readers and diners, she let us taste her joy in the arrival of winter's first Dungeness crabs and Meyer lemons, in spring's first shoots of green garlic and pink rhubarb, in summer's abundance of tomatoes and wild salmon, in autumn's tumble of grapes, persimmons, and squash. Under her tutelage, her staff pickled neon-pink onions and chartreuse-bright zucchini, shaved raw white asparagus and porcini mushrooms into salads, and paired milky green almonds with sweet white nectarines and tissue-thin slices of proscuitto. She made a plate of tiny, silvery cured anchovies over a bed of celery seem like the most natural happy-hour snack in the world, taught us to love bone marrow, squid, gizzards, lamb's tongues, and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As she wrote in her cookbook's introduction,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"And so, the Zuni repertory is an evolving hybrid of the cuisines I love, made possible by the generosity of many teachers and colleagues. If our food is delicious, it is due to that passion, and to the extraordinary quality of the products we obtain, and to the talent and devotion of every cook who has embraced it with heart.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rodgers was a chef, an artist, a staunch and influential mentor and friend to so many in the food world, and an icon who shaped the California food revolution with tremendous grace, tenaciousness, and skill. She will be missed. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\nZuni Cafe chef and co-owner Judy Rodgers and co-owner Gilbert Pilgram talk about making food they love, exploring a dish's ethnic roots, rejecting trends, and their passion for ingredients.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Video: Epicurious\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n[youtube //www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLfELvVGWlw]\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"In remembrance of iconic San Francisco chef Judy Rodgers of Zuni Café, who passed away at age 57. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1386626341,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":true,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":13,"wordCount":1205},"headData":{"title":"In Memoriam: Judy Rodgers of Zuni Café | KQED","description":"In remembrance of iconic San Francisco chef Judy Rodgers of Zuni Café, who passed away at age 57. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"In Memoriam: Judy Rodgers of Zuni Café","datePublished":"2013-12-03T21:55:14.000Z","dateModified":"2013-12-09T21:59:01.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"74693 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=74693","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/12/03/in-memoriam-judy-rodgers-of-zuni-cafe/","disqusTitle":"In Memoriam: Judy Rodgers of Zuni Café","path":"/bayareabites/74693/in-memoriam-judy-rodgers-of-zuni-cafe","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_74715\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/judy-rogers.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/judy-rogers.jpg\" alt=\"Judy Rodgers, chef-owner of Zuni Cafe. Screenshot: Epicurious\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-74715\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Judy Rodgers, chef-owner of Zuni Cafe.\u003cbr>Screenshot: Epicurious\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Do you remember your first time at \u003ca href=\"http://www.zunicafe.com/\">Zuni Cafe\u003c/a>? Maybe, like me, you walked through the glass doors and up to the always-lively bar in the early 1990s, when the city was still recovering from the seismic upheaval of both the Loma Prieta earthquake and a national economic crash. Maybe you found solace there just after the earthquake, when $4 bowls of polenta kept the lights on. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps you watched the morning sun slant through the tall glass windows overlooking Market Street during the years when the cafe was serving breakfast, as peaceful, often solo customers started the day with bowls of cafe au lait, buttery scones, and \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herb_Caen\">Herb Caen\u003c/a> in the pages of the Chronicle. Innumerable birthdays, weddings, engagements, anniversaries, and festivities were celebrated there, over the butcher-papered tables, with mahogany-skinned roast chickens for two, with fresh oysters and cracked Dungeness crab, with Caesar salad, shoestring fries, espresso granita, and huge hunks of Acme levain bread and butter that tasted better there than anywhere else. Zuni Cafe was that rare bird, a confident, welcoming San Francisco restaurant that didn't change, yet still managed to feel as fresh, as relevant, as perfectly just-right-now as it did ten, twenty, even twenty-five years ago. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Zuni Café will live on. But its guiding light, its chef, owner, and perfectionist visionary Judy Rodgers, an icon of California cuisine, is gone. Rodgers, 57, passed away today. In 2004, Rodgers was named Outstanding Chef in America by the James Beard Foundation; Zuni Cafe won the James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant in America in 2003. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/zunicookbook.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/12/zunicookbook.jpg\" alt=\"The Zuni Cafe Cookbook: A Compendium of Recipes and Cooking Lessons from San Francisco's Beloved Restaurant. Author: Judy Rogers\" width=\"260\" height=\"324\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-74719\">\u003c/a>Rodgers put the sharp, inquisitive, and knowledge-seeking mind that had earned her a degree in art history at Stanford to great use as a chef and author. As she detailed in her James Beard Award-winning book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0393020436/kqedorg-20\">The Zuni Cafe Cookbook\u003c/a>, she got her start as a curious 16 year old exchange student in 1973, spending a year with Troisgros family (who were friends of a neighbor of Rodgers' back home in St. Louis) who just happened to run Les Freres Troisgros in Rouen, then one of the most renowned restaurants in France. The lessons she learned there--of unstinting quality of ingredients matched with careful thriftiness, of perfection in simplicity, of pride in craft--would remain with her throughout her working life. She took the lessons she learned in that French kitchen and made them the basis for her particular kind of California cuisine, one rooted in French attitudes towards \u003cem>terroir\u003c/em> and quality yet inspired by the ever more finely tuned seasonal abundance of Northern California's farms, ranches, fisheries, vineyards, and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1977, she started cooking professionally as the lunch chef at Alice Waters' then six-year-old restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a>. Two years later, she returned to France to cook at a small restaurant in the southwest, then relearned American food at the Union Hotel in Benicia with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/07/12/waffles-for-marion-cunningham/\">Marion Cunningham\u003c/a>. In 1983, she traveled to Italy to live, learn, and eat, falling in love with the foods and history of Tuscany. By 1987, after a brief stint cooking in New York City, she became the chef at Zuni, a once-Southwestern restaurant that morphed under her influence into the French-Italian-Californian hybrid it remains today. With its wedge-shaped corner footprint between Franklin and Gough, Zuni was convenient to City Hall, the opera, the ballet, and the symphony, as well as to the scruffier aspects of Market Street. Walking down Rose Alley behind the restaurant, you could catch sight of Rodgers under the fluorescent lights of the kitchen, slim and intense, her bright blue eyes missing nothing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the late 1990s, when I worked as an assistant cookbook editor at Chronicle Books, Rodgers came to us for a meeting about a possible Zuni cookbook. With her lengthy proposal in hand, the first question we had to ask was, had she written the text herself? Her proposal was meticulously crafted, with a well-shaped, well-written storyline that was equal parts personal memoir, California culinary history, and useful kitchen know-how, plus finely detailed but followable recipes for all of Zuni's best dishes. I'm not exaggerating to say that it was better than most finished books, and much better even than most professionally-ghostwritten or co-authored chef's books. It was hard to believe that Rodgers, known for her focused attention to all the night-after-night details at her restaurant, could have found the time to write so much of such a good book. Yet she had. Chronicle passed on the proposal, but I stealthily photocopied my copy and brought it home to use. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the book came out, published by W. W. Norton in 2002, I was unsurprised to see that much of it was word-for-word from the original proposal. Rodgers' voice, Rodgers' knowledge, suffused every page. The recipe for Zuni's famous Caesar Salad took up two and a half pages. It wasn't because the recipe was so complex--it was nothing fancier than romaine lettuce, croutons, and Parmesan, dressed in a red wine vinaigrette enriched with eggs and flavored with lemon, garlic and anchovy--but because she wanted her readers to understand her mind-set, to pay attention to the nuances of every ingredient and to bring them together in a mindful way. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing was set in stone; every day in the kitchen started fresh, with ingredients that were inevitably a little different from the day before. As readers and diners, she let us taste her joy in the arrival of winter's first Dungeness crabs and Meyer lemons, in spring's first shoots of green garlic and pink rhubarb, in summer's abundance of tomatoes and wild salmon, in autumn's tumble of grapes, persimmons, and squash. Under her tutelage, her staff pickled neon-pink onions and chartreuse-bright zucchini, shaved raw white asparagus and porcini mushrooms into salads, and paired milky green almonds with sweet white nectarines and tissue-thin slices of proscuitto. She made a plate of tiny, silvery cured anchovies over a bed of celery seem like the most natural happy-hour snack in the world, taught us to love bone marrow, squid, gizzards, lamb's tongues, and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As she wrote in her cookbook's introduction,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"And so, the Zuni repertory is an evolving hybrid of the cuisines I love, made possible by the generosity of many teachers and colleagues. If our food is delicious, it is due to that passion, and to the extraordinary quality of the products we obtain, and to the talent and devotion of every cook who has embraced it with heart.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rodgers was a chef, an artist, a staunch and influential mentor and friend to so many in the food world, and an icon who shaped the California food revolution with tremendous grace, tenaciousness, and skill. She will be missed. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\nZuni Cafe chef and co-owner Judy Rodgers and co-owner Gilbert Pilgram talk about making food they love, exploring a dish's ethnic roots, rejecting trends, and their passion for ingredients.\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Video: Epicurious\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/kLfELvVGWlw'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/kLfELvVGWlw'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/74693/in-memoriam-judy-rodgers-of-zuni-cafe","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_4000","bayareabites_12740","bayareabites_4031","bayareabites_408","bayareabites_12743"],"featImg":"bayareabites_74714","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_62359":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_62359","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"62359","score":null,"sort":[1369325860000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"7-essential-cooking-lessons-i-learned-at-san-francisco-cooking-school","title":"7 Essential Cooking Lessons I Learned at San Francisco Cooking School","publishDate":1369325860,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-571.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62550\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-571.jpg\" alt=\"Stephanie Hua, SF Cooking School\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the past four months, I’ve developed a new appreciation for pants with stretchy elastic bands. I’ve traded in cute shoes for kitchen clogs. And, I’ve certainly given up on manicures – I’ll consider it a win if my nails are simply clean and don’t smell like onions. Or fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/first-filet.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62551\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/first-filet.jpeg\" alt=\"first filet at SF Cooking School\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve been immersed life at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfcooking.com/\">San Francisco Cooking School\u003c/a>, and fat pants and fishy hands aside, I am loving every minute of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2012-11-07-sf-cooking-school-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-34.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62360\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2012-11-07-sf-cooking-school-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-34.jpg\" alt=\"SF Cooking School\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SF Cooking School came into my life somewhat fortuitously. I had been invited to cover the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/15/san-francisco-cooking-school-a-preview/\">opening of the school\u003c/a> for a preview story and the more I learned about the school, the more I fell in love with school’s philosophy, curriculum, and culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zJ9ilOxl08]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A small, intimate class. Hands-on, practical learning. And access to some of the best chefs and resources San Francisco has to offer. Sign me up! I pulled the trigger and so began \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/news/san-francisco-cooking-school/\">my adventures in cooking school\u003c/a>. It’s impossible to distill everything I’ve learned into a few short paragraphs, but here are a few of the big takeaways:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>EFFICIENCY\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPerhaps one of the biggest differences between cooking for pleasure at home and cooking with a purpose in a professional setting is the pace at which you are expected and required to work. At school, we are taught from day one to work with a sense of urgency. Whether it is a matter of using the right tool for the job, organizing your \u003cem>mise en place\u003c/em>, or even walking with purpose, your goal is to work fast and work smart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>BATCH MOTIONS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAlong the same lines of efficiency, you’ll work quickest if you batch together similar motions. For example, if you are forming meatballs, you wouldn’t portion out and roll each meatball one at a time. Instead, you would want to portion out the entire batch, then roll out the meatballs all at once. The work will go twice as fast. Trust me, I learned the hard way. At school, we are taught to pay attention to what are “wasted motions” or wasted effort. If you find that you have to put down and pick up your knife/utensil a lot, or if you find yourself in an awkward position, stop and reevaluate your work flow. Always arrange your work in a way that lets you complete your task with minimal effort.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ON BUTCHERY\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nOne of the most memorable lessons we had was taking down a half hog with \u003ca href=\"http://4505meats.com/\">4505 Meats\u003c/a>. What a treat to be able to be able to learn about butchery from one of the leading butchers in town.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s amazing how similar most animals are structured. If you learn the basics of breaking down a chicken, for example, you can follow the same rules of thumb for breaking down a whole hog. Use your fingers and look for joints and natural breaking points. Follow the bone when you’re trying to remove meat from bone. Let gravity work for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don’t waste anything. We used every bit of that beautiful hog. We made sausage and cured salumi, we used the leaf lard for pie dough, saved the bones for stock, made chicharrones with the skin, and even fried up the ears (PSA: pig ears splatter. A lot.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>TASTE. TASTE. TASTE.\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis is probably a no brainer, but of course, one of the most important things about cooking is learning how to taste your food and then having both the know-how and ability to correct it. That second part is where it can get tricky. In order to know how to correct a flavor, you need to have some understanding about how tastes work together (how does salt balance bitterness for example), and what flavors complement one another. You need to develop your library of taste memories and then be able to draw on that information when the time comes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within the first week of school, we had a taste workshop with \u003ca href=\"http://barbstuckey.com/\">Barb Stuckey\u003c/a>. We delved into the science of taste and learned a lot -- You can smell through your mouth! Butter has no taste!! (what you perceive as the taste of butter is just aroma and texture) -- ultimately, this workshop set the stage for what we were all there to learn: how do you make food taste good?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the past few months, we worked on tasting critically and building up our taste library. As we cooked, a tasting spoon was always at the ready. We learned to taste throughout different stages of a dish, and were even blind-tested on scent recognition of spices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>GEEK OUT\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAt SF Cooking School, we’re taught not just how to follow a recipe, but how to understand how and why it works so that we can fix it if something doesn’t go as planned. Understanding the whys involves a bit of science. What is happening on a molecular level when a mayonnaise breaks? Why does it then make sense to add a bit of warm water to fix it? You can go down a rabbit hole of information on any given topic when it comes to food. What I’ve come away with is to never stop seeking out the \"why.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>IT’S NOT ALL SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAs lovely and romantic as it sounds, a career in professional cooking has its hard realities. Pep talks from SF Cooking School deans \u003cstrong>Craig Stoll\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>Daniel Patterson\u003c/strong> were half pep, half tell-it-as-it-really-is reality checks. Life in the kitchen is serious physical work. Hours are long. Pay is…sobering. Running a restaurant is a business and being a chef is as much about managing costs as it is about creating delicious food. And, as much as we love our local, organic, responsibly grown goods here, when breaking down a case of artichokes is one of a gazillion things on your prep list for the day, you are not being paid to fondle the produce. Which is not to say there isn’t the utmost respect for the product, there is…just, fondle on your own time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CALIFORNIA CUISINE\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIt may not be all sunshine and rainbows, but we still have it pretty darn great here in San Francisco, and SF Cooking School will be the first ones to celebrate that. One of the big draws to the school for me was the focus on making use of the Bay Area as a learning ground. We hit the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereyfish.com/\">Monterey Fish Market\u003c/a> on a 5 a.m. field trip and learned about sustainable fishing. We went foraging with local foraging legend, \u003ca href=\"http://honest-food.net/\">Hank Shaw\u003c/a>. We pickled and fermented everything we could get our hands on with \u003cstrong>Courtney Burns\u003c/strong> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartartine.com/\">Bar Tartine\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SF Cooking School gave us a strong foundation of classic French techniques. We learned the mother sauces. We consumed more butter and cream in four months than we probably had cumulatively in life to date. We suffered through turning vegetables that were not meant to be perfect little six-sided footballs into perfect little six-sided footballs. But, we also embraced modern California cuisine. We cooked with the season. We feasted on local fruits and vegetables, knew the name of the farmer our hog came from, and made our own sourdough bread (Lil Spence, our starter, was a fantastic class pet).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-41.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62361\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-41.jpg\" alt=\"SF Cooking School Restaurant Week\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our time in the classroom culminated with Restaurant Week, when we transformed the school into a restaurant and served friends and family a menu we developed and prepared. Here’s a peek at what we made:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-55.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62362\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-55.jpg\" alt=\"SF Cooking School Restaurant Week\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-9.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62380\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-9-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade Tartine-Style Bread\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-46.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62367\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-46-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"House-made Charcuterie: salami, rabbit terrine, chicken liver mousse, vegetable escabeche\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-49.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62368\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-49-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Zucchini Carpaccio, preserved lemon, kalamata olives\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-52.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62369\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-52-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Ricotta Gnocchi, fava beans, fava leaves, parmesan cheese\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-90.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62375\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-90-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Duck Breast, apple gastrique, watercress salad\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-67.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62371\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-67-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Sheri Codiana, on the line\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-87.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62374\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-87.jpg\" alt=\"Seared Sea Scallops, curry beurre blanc, potatoes, radishes, english peas\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-81.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62373\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-81-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Nettle Raviolo, egg yolk, mushroom butter, green garlic, fresh mushrooms\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-75.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62372\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-75-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Lisa Rossi, prepping caramelized bananas\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-92.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62376\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-92-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Hazelnut Financière, caramelized bananas, chocolate sauce\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-97.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62377\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-97-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Candied Fennel Tart, star anise ice cream\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-100.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62378\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-100-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Soufflè Milanese, matcha-poppy seed tuile\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-1051.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62552\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-1051-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Dessert Spread, SF Cooking School Restaurant Week\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-120.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62379\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-120.jpg\" alt=\"San Francisco Cooking School, inaugural class\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the next two months, I’ll be continuing my education at \u003ca href=\"http://www.locandasf.com/\">Locanda\u003c/a> where I’m externing! I have no doubt that I will learn a ton from Chef \u003cstrong>Anthony Strong\u003c/strong> and his talented team. I have a feeling I will get pretty good at prepping \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2012/04/number_27_the_jewish-style_art.php\">artichokes\u003c/a> by the end of my externship. Rest assured, they will remain unmolested on the job.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For your viewing pleasure, here are a few snapshots from a day in my life at San Francisco Cooking School:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Over the past four months I've immersed myself in San Francisco Cooking School. Here's a peek into my experience and a few lessons I've learned.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1550605298,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":true,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":28,"wordCount":1383},"headData":{"title":"7 Essential Cooking Lessons I Learned at San Francisco Cooking School | KQED","description":"Over the past four months I've immersed myself in San Francisco Cooking School. Here's a peek into my experience and a few lessons I've learned.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"7 Essential Cooking Lessons I Learned at San Francisco Cooking School","datePublished":"2013-05-23T16:17:40.000Z","dateModified":"2019-02-19T19:41:38.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"62359 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=62359","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/05/23/7-essential-cooking-lessons-i-learned-at-san-francisco-cooking-school/","disqusTitle":"7 Essential Cooking Lessons I Learned at San Francisco Cooking School","path":"/bayareabites/62359/7-essential-cooking-lessons-i-learned-at-san-francisco-cooking-school","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-571.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62550\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-571.jpg\" alt=\"Stephanie Hua, SF Cooking School\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the past four months, I’ve developed a new appreciation for pants with stretchy elastic bands. I’ve traded in cute shoes for kitchen clogs. And, I’ve certainly given up on manicures – I’ll consider it a win if my nails are simply clean and don’t smell like onions. Or fish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/first-filet.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62551\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/first-filet.jpeg\" alt=\"first filet at SF Cooking School\" width=\"600\" height=\"600\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ve been immersed life at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfcooking.com/\">San Francisco Cooking School\u003c/a>, and fat pants and fishy hands aside, I am loving every minute of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2012-11-07-sf-cooking-school-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-34.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62360\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2012-11-07-sf-cooking-school-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-34.jpg\" alt=\"SF Cooking School\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SF Cooking School came into my life somewhat fortuitously. I had been invited to cover the \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/15/san-francisco-cooking-school-a-preview/\">opening of the school\u003c/a> for a preview story and the more I learned about the school, the more I fell in love with school’s philosophy, curriculum, and culture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/8zJ9ilOxl08'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/8zJ9ilOxl08'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A small, intimate class. Hands-on, practical learning. And access to some of the best chefs and resources San Francisco has to offer. Sign me up! I pulled the trigger and so began \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/news/san-francisco-cooking-school/\">my adventures in cooking school\u003c/a>. It’s impossible to distill everything I’ve learned into a few short paragraphs, but here are a few of the big takeaways:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>EFFICIENCY\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPerhaps one of the biggest differences between cooking for pleasure at home and cooking with a purpose in a professional setting is the pace at which you are expected and required to work. At school, we are taught from day one to work with a sense of urgency. Whether it is a matter of using the right tool for the job, organizing your \u003cem>mise en place\u003c/em>, or even walking with purpose, your goal is to work fast and work smart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>BATCH MOTIONS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAlong the same lines of efficiency, you’ll work quickest if you batch together similar motions. For example, if you are forming meatballs, you wouldn’t portion out and roll each meatball one at a time. Instead, you would want to portion out the entire batch, then roll out the meatballs all at once. The work will go twice as fast. Trust me, I learned the hard way. At school, we are taught to pay attention to what are “wasted motions” or wasted effort. If you find that you have to put down and pick up your knife/utensil a lot, or if you find yourself in an awkward position, stop and reevaluate your work flow. Always arrange your work in a way that lets you complete your task with minimal effort.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ON BUTCHERY\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nOne of the most memorable lessons we had was taking down a half hog with \u003ca href=\"http://4505meats.com/\">4505 Meats\u003c/a>. What a treat to be able to be able to learn about butchery from one of the leading butchers in town.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s amazing how similar most animals are structured. If you learn the basics of breaking down a chicken, for example, you can follow the same rules of thumb for breaking down a whole hog. Use your fingers and look for joints and natural breaking points. Follow the bone when you’re trying to remove meat from bone. Let gravity work for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don’t waste anything. We used every bit of that beautiful hog. We made sausage and cured salumi, we used the leaf lard for pie dough, saved the bones for stock, made chicharrones with the skin, and even fried up the ears (PSA: pig ears splatter. A lot.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>TASTE. TASTE. TASTE.\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis is probably a no brainer, but of course, one of the most important things about cooking is learning how to taste your food and then having both the know-how and ability to correct it. That second part is where it can get tricky. In order to know how to correct a flavor, you need to have some understanding about how tastes work together (how does salt balance bitterness for example), and what flavors complement one another. You need to develop your library of taste memories and then be able to draw on that information when the time comes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within the first week of school, we had a taste workshop with \u003ca href=\"http://barbstuckey.com/\">Barb Stuckey\u003c/a>. We delved into the science of taste and learned a lot -- You can smell through your mouth! Butter has no taste!! (what you perceive as the taste of butter is just aroma and texture) -- ultimately, this workshop set the stage for what we were all there to learn: how do you make food taste good?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the past few months, we worked on tasting critically and building up our taste library. As we cooked, a tasting spoon was always at the ready. We learned to taste throughout different stages of a dish, and were even blind-tested on scent recognition of spices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>GEEK OUT\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAt SF Cooking School, we’re taught not just how to follow a recipe, but how to understand how and why it works so that we can fix it if something doesn’t go as planned. Understanding the whys involves a bit of science. What is happening on a molecular level when a mayonnaise breaks? Why does it then make sense to add a bit of warm water to fix it? You can go down a rabbit hole of information on any given topic when it comes to food. What I’ve come away with is to never stop seeking out the \"why.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>IT’S NOT ALL SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAs lovely and romantic as it sounds, a career in professional cooking has its hard realities. Pep talks from SF Cooking School deans \u003cstrong>Craig Stoll\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>Daniel Patterson\u003c/strong> were half pep, half tell-it-as-it-really-is reality checks. Life in the kitchen is serious physical work. Hours are long. Pay is…sobering. Running a restaurant is a business and being a chef is as much about managing costs as it is about creating delicious food. And, as much as we love our local, organic, responsibly grown goods here, when breaking down a case of artichokes is one of a gazillion things on your prep list for the day, you are not being paid to fondle the produce. Which is not to say there isn’t the utmost respect for the product, there is…just, fondle on your own time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CALIFORNIA CUISINE\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIt may not be all sunshine and rainbows, but we still have it pretty darn great here in San Francisco, and SF Cooking School will be the first ones to celebrate that. One of the big draws to the school for me was the focus on making use of the Bay Area as a learning ground. We hit the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereyfish.com/\">Monterey Fish Market\u003c/a> on a 5 a.m. field trip and learned about sustainable fishing. We went foraging with local foraging legend, \u003ca href=\"http://honest-food.net/\">Hank Shaw\u003c/a>. We pickled and fermented everything we could get our hands on with \u003cstrong>Courtney Burns\u003c/strong> from \u003ca href=\"http://www.bartartine.com/\">Bar Tartine\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SF Cooking School gave us a strong foundation of classic French techniques. We learned the mother sauces. We consumed more butter and cream in four months than we probably had cumulatively in life to date. We suffered through turning vegetables that were not meant to be perfect little six-sided footballs into perfect little six-sided footballs. But, we also embraced modern California cuisine. We cooked with the season. We feasted on local fruits and vegetables, knew the name of the farmer our hog came from, and made our own sourdough bread (Lil Spence, our starter, was a fantastic class pet).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-41.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62361\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-41.jpg\" alt=\"SF Cooking School Restaurant Week\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Our time in the classroom culminated with Restaurant Week, when we transformed the school into a restaurant and served friends and family a menu we developed and prepared. Here’s a peek at what we made:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-55.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62362\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-55.jpg\" alt=\"SF Cooking School Restaurant Week\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-9.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62380\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-9-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade Tartine-Style Bread\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-46.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62367\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-46-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"House-made Charcuterie: salami, rabbit terrine, chicken liver mousse, vegetable escabeche\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-49.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62368\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-49-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Zucchini Carpaccio, preserved lemon, kalamata olives\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-52.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62369\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-52-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Ricotta Gnocchi, fava beans, fava leaves, parmesan cheese\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-90.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62375\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-90-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Duck Breast, apple gastrique, watercress salad\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-67.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62371\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-67-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Sheri Codiana, on the line\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-87.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62374\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-87.jpg\" alt=\"Seared Sea Scallops, curry beurre blanc, potatoes, radishes, english peas\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-81.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62373\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-81-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Nettle Raviolo, egg yolk, mushroom butter, green garlic, fresh mushrooms\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-75.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62372\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-75-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Lisa Rossi, prepping caramelized bananas\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-92.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62376\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-92-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Hazelnut Financière, caramelized bananas, chocolate sauce\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-97.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62377\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-97-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Candied Fennel Tart, star anise ice cream\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-100.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62378\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-100-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Soufflè Milanese, matcha-poppy seed tuile\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-1051.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-62552\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-1051-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Dessert Spread, SF Cooking School Restaurant Week\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-120.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-62379\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/2013-04-25-SFCS-restaurant-week-120.jpg\" alt=\"San Francisco Cooking School, inaugural class\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the next two months, I’ll be continuing my education at \u003ca href=\"http://www.locandasf.com/\">Locanda\u003c/a> where I’m externing! I have no doubt that I will learn a ton from Chef \u003cstrong>Anthony Strong\u003c/strong> and his talented team. I have a feeling I will get pretty good at prepping \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2012/04/number_27_the_jewish-style_art.php\">artichokes\u003c/a> by the end of my externship. Rest assured, they will remain unmolested on the job.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For your viewing pleasure, here are a few snapshots from a day in my life at San Francisco Cooking School:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/62359/7-essential-cooking-lessons-i-learned-at-san-francisco-cooking-school","authors":["5037"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_64","bayareabites_10851","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_2959","bayareabites_1596","bayareabites_4000","bayareabites_10803"],"featImg":"bayareabites_62484","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_44474":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_44474","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"44474","score":null,"sort":[1340118830000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"madrona-manors-organic-kitchen-garden","title":"Madrona Manor's Organic Kitchen Garden","publishDate":1340118830,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/madrona-manor.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/madrona-manor.jpg\" alt=\"Madrona Manor\" title=\"Madrona Manor\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44781\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tucked away along the hillside of Dry Creek Valley, in the sleepy little town of Healdsburg, is a century-old mansion called \u003ca href=\"http://www.madronamanor.com\">Madrona Manor\u003c/a>. Built in 1881, this nationally-registered Victorian estate was once just a weekend getaway for a very well-to-do banker. Today, it's an inn with a one star Michelin-rated restaurant. The grounds at Madrona Manor--as one would expect--are immaculate. It is a mansion after all. Tulips, roses, cherry and camellias, leave the eight-acre estate billowing with floral delights. But my favorite part is the property's organic kitchen garden. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Under the guidance of Executive Chef Jesse Mallgren, the kitchen garden provides culinary inspiration for the restaurant most of the year. Raspberries, heirloom tomatoes, fava beans, lettuces such as wasabi arugula, are just a few of plants you'll find on the property. Let me tell you, wasabi arugula is called that for a reason. I couldn't help but sample some of it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But don't take my word for it, hear what Chef Jesse has to say about it:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/3LMEDqWklJk\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was at Madrona Manor last month while \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/06/06/lavender-splash-cocktail-fresh-from-the-medlock-ames-garden/\">driving all around California in a Chevy Volt\u003c/a>. I had the luxury of not only staying there, but also dining there. Heck, they even let me charge my Volt there. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This chilled asparagus soup is just one of the amazing dishes I was treated to, featuring hazelnuts and rosemary blossoms. Look at how beautiful it is. After photographing it, I sat there in awe for a few minutes. I didn't want to ruin Chef Jesse's creation. But I got over that pretty quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2167.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2167.jpg\" alt=\"Chilled Asparagus Soup\" title=\"Chilled Asparagus Soup\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44478\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What makes Chef Jesse a genius is not just his use of seasonal ingredients but also, his use of out-of-season items. For example, he even uses the asparagus plant when it's not producing. Who knew you could do that?! Ferns from the vegetable find their way into salads or just as a garnish. And they taste just as fresh as the vegetable themselves. Genius, I tell you. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here he is showing off his beautiful fava bean plant and you can tell, he's quite proud of it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2316.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2316.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Jesse Mallgren\" title=\"Executive Chef Jesse Mallgren\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44482\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>John Paxton purchased the land back in 1880 for just $10,500, a total of 240 acres in all. The home itself cost just $12,000 to build and was known as Madrona Knoll Rancho, one of the grandest homes in the 1880s. Not too surprising. When the house was completed it had 17 rooms, 3 1/2 baths and 7 fireplaces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being a century-old mansion, the Madrona Manor experience might seem a bit old and dusty. It's not. During my six-plus course meal, Chef Jesse and I were chit-chatting over Twitter, something I'm guessing Thomas Keller would never do. At least he didn't when I was at the French Laundry. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can talk to Chef Jesse too, his Twitter handle is \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/madronachef\">@MadronaChef\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/palm-terrace.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/palm-terrace.jpg\" alt=\"Palm Terrace\" title=\"Palm Terrace\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44782\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But without further ado, let's get on to the eating, shall we? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2086.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2086.jpg\" alt=\"Menu from Madrona Manor, May 16, 2002\" title=\"Menu from Madrona Manor, May 16, 2002\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44476\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As I mentioned, the dinner was about six courses, most of the ingredients were hand-picked from the garden that day. As Chef Jesse mentions in the video above, the dining experience at Madrona swings full circle. They try to use every part of the plant. That ethos was ever-present during my meal. It started with an amuse-bouche consisting of a radish and a savory churro and it ended on a similar note, with a marzipan radish and a more traditional churro. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2076.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2076.jpg\" alt=\"Radish and Churro\" title=\"Radish and Churro\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44475\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This yukon gold gnocchi was one of my favorites. Not just for the flavor but as an avid gnocchi maker...it's always nice when someone else makes it. It's a very, very labor intensive process. And since Chef Jesse is always looking for a fun and tasty way to use the whole plant, this dish included estate pea leaves along with some fresh lemon and pecorino. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2188.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2188.jpg\" alt=\"Yukon Gold Potato Gnocchi\" title=\"Yukon Gold Potato Gnocchi\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44479\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In case you were worried, the peas themselves were also used. Appropriately coined \"Peas and Carrots\" on the menu, I guarantee you this dish has no resemblance to the frozen vegetable mix you find at the grocery store. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2203.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2203.jpg\" alt=\"Peas and Carrots\" title=\"Peas and Carrots\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44480\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And just when I thought I couldn't eat another bite, this was dessert one of two. And I ate both! The second was a Guinness ice cream which was hand churned tableside using minus 320 degree nitrogen. How could anyone turn that down? Sadly, my photos of that dessert did not turn out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2300.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2300.jpg\" alt=\"Creme Caramel\" title=\"Creme Caramel\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44481\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So if you have yet to make it as far north as Healdsburg, I suggest you book that Zipcar today! Besides being the home to Madrona Manor, the town of Healdsburg, is one of California's wine capitols, that is, three of the most important wine-producing regions (the Russian River, Dry Creek, and Alexander Valley) meet in Healdsburg.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Tucked away along the hillside of Dry Creek Valley, in the sleepy little town of Healdsburg, is a century-old mansion called Madrona Manor. Built in 1881, this nationally-registered Victorian estate was once just a weekend getaway for a very well-to-do banker. Today, it's an inn with a one star Michelin-rated restaurant. The grounds at Madrona Manor--as one would expect--are immaculate. It is a mansion after all. Tulips, roses, annuals and perennials, leave the eight-acre estate billowing with floral delights. But my favorite part is the property's organic kitchen garden. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1340118950,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":true,"hasChartOrMap":true,"iframeSrcs":["http://www.youtube.com/embed/3LMEDqWklJk"],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":28,"wordCount":810},"headData":{"title":"Madrona Manor's Organic Kitchen Garden | KQED","description":"Tucked away along the hillside of Dry Creek Valley, in the sleepy little town of Healdsburg, is a century-old mansion called Madrona Manor. Built in 1881, this nationally-registered Victorian estate was once just a weekend getaway for a very well-to-do banker. Today, it's an inn with a one star Michelin-rated restaurant. The grounds at Madrona Manor--as one would expect--are immaculate. It is a mansion after all. Tulips, roses, annuals and perennials, leave the eight-acre estate billowing with floral delights. But my favorite part is the property's organic kitchen garden. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Madrona Manor's Organic Kitchen Garden","datePublished":"2012-06-19T15:13:50.000Z","dateModified":"2012-06-19T15:15:50.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"44474 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=44474","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/06/19/madrona-manors-organic-kitchen-garden/","disqusTitle":"Madrona Manor's Organic Kitchen Garden","path":"/bayareabites/44474/madrona-manors-organic-kitchen-garden","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/madrona-manor.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/madrona-manor.jpg\" alt=\"Madrona Manor\" title=\"Madrona Manor\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44781\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tucked away along the hillside of Dry Creek Valley, in the sleepy little town of Healdsburg, is a century-old mansion called \u003ca href=\"http://www.madronamanor.com\">Madrona Manor\u003c/a>. Built in 1881, this nationally-registered Victorian estate was once just a weekend getaway for a very well-to-do banker. Today, it's an inn with a one star Michelin-rated restaurant. The grounds at Madrona Manor--as one would expect--are immaculate. It is a mansion after all. Tulips, roses, cherry and camellias, leave the eight-acre estate billowing with floral delights. But my favorite part is the property's organic kitchen garden. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Under the guidance of Executive Chef Jesse Mallgren, the kitchen garden provides culinary inspiration for the restaurant most of the year. Raspberries, heirloom tomatoes, fava beans, lettuces such as wasabi arugula, are just a few of plants you'll find on the property. Let me tell you, wasabi arugula is called that for a reason. I couldn't help but sample some of it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But don't take my word for it, hear what Chef Jesse has to say about it:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/3LMEDqWklJk\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was at Madrona Manor last month while \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/06/06/lavender-splash-cocktail-fresh-from-the-medlock-ames-garden/\">driving all around California in a Chevy Volt\u003c/a>. I had the luxury of not only staying there, but also dining there. Heck, they even let me charge my Volt there. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This chilled asparagus soup is just one of the amazing dishes I was treated to, featuring hazelnuts and rosemary blossoms. Look at how beautiful it is. After photographing it, I sat there in awe for a few minutes. I didn't want to ruin Chef Jesse's creation. But I got over that pretty quickly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2167.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2167.jpg\" alt=\"Chilled Asparagus Soup\" title=\"Chilled Asparagus Soup\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44478\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What makes Chef Jesse a genius is not just his use of seasonal ingredients but also, his use of out-of-season items. For example, he even uses the asparagus plant when it's not producing. Who knew you could do that?! Ferns from the vegetable find their way into salads or just as a garnish. And they taste just as fresh as the vegetable themselves. Genius, I tell you. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here he is showing off his beautiful fava bean plant and you can tell, he's quite proud of it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2316.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2316.jpg\" alt=\"Executive Chef Jesse Mallgren\" title=\"Executive Chef Jesse Mallgren\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44482\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>John Paxton purchased the land back in 1880 for just $10,500, a total of 240 acres in all. The home itself cost just $12,000 to build and was known as Madrona Knoll Rancho, one of the grandest homes in the 1880s. Not too surprising. When the house was completed it had 17 rooms, 3 1/2 baths and 7 fireplaces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Being a century-old mansion, the Madrona Manor experience might seem a bit old and dusty. It's not. During my six-plus course meal, Chef Jesse and I were chit-chatting over Twitter, something I'm guessing Thomas Keller would never do. At least he didn't when I was at the French Laundry. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can talk to Chef Jesse too, his Twitter handle is \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/#!/madronachef\">@MadronaChef\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/palm-terrace.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/palm-terrace.jpg\" alt=\"Palm Terrace\" title=\"Palm Terrace\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44782\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But without further ado, let's get on to the eating, shall we? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2086.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2086.jpg\" alt=\"Menu from Madrona Manor, May 16, 2002\" title=\"Menu from Madrona Manor, May 16, 2002\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44476\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As I mentioned, the dinner was about six courses, most of the ingredients were hand-picked from the garden that day. As Chef Jesse mentions in the video above, the dining experience at Madrona swings full circle. They try to use every part of the plant. That ethos was ever-present during my meal. It started with an amuse-bouche consisting of a radish and a savory churro and it ended on a similar note, with a marzipan radish and a more traditional churro. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2076.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2076.jpg\" alt=\"Radish and Churro\" title=\"Radish and Churro\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44475\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This yukon gold gnocchi was one of my favorites. Not just for the flavor but as an avid gnocchi maker...it's always nice when someone else makes it. It's a very, very labor intensive process. And since Chef Jesse is always looking for a fun and tasty way to use the whole plant, this dish included estate pea leaves along with some fresh lemon and pecorino. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2188.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2188.jpg\" alt=\"Yukon Gold Potato Gnocchi\" title=\"Yukon Gold Potato Gnocchi\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44479\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In case you were worried, the peas themselves were also used. Appropriately coined \"Peas and Carrots\" on the menu, I guarantee you this dish has no resemblance to the frozen vegetable mix you find at the grocery store. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2203.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2203.jpg\" alt=\"Peas and Carrots\" title=\"Peas and Carrots\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44480\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And just when I thought I couldn't eat another bite, this was dessert one of two. And I ate both! The second was a Guinness ice cream which was hand churned tableside using minus 320 degree nitrogen. How could anyone turn that down? Sadly, my photos of that dessert did not turn out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2300.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/06/IMG_2300.jpg\" alt=\"Creme Caramel\" title=\"Creme Caramel\" width=\"560\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44481\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So if you have yet to make it as far north as Healdsburg, I suggest you book that Zipcar today! Besides being the home to Madrona Manor, the town of Healdsburg, is one of California's wine capitols, that is, three of the most important wine-producing regions (the Russian River, Dry Creek, and Alexander Valley) meet in Healdsburg.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/44474/madrona-manors-organic-kitchen-garden","authors":["5362"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_2554","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_61","bayareabites_1593"],"tags":["bayareabites_4000","bayareabites_10530","bayareabites_10146","bayareabites_10527","bayareabites_10529","bayareabites_3788"],"featImg":"bayareabites_44478","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_13015":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_13015","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"13015","score":null,"sort":[1272989319000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"commis-is-crackin","title":"Commis is Crackin'","publishDate":1272989319,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>It all starts -- literally -- with the egg -- this post, a life, my recent meal at \u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>, a 10-month-old restaurant in Piedmont, Oakland. An egg is a pretty perfect way to begin dinner, especially when, in the case of an inspired amuse-bouche, it evokes breakfast: a poached yolk the color of a setting sun couched in an onion soup. A smear of pureed dates lurked below the surface. Tidy piles of chive clippings and crunchy steel-cut oats flanked the yolk. Even though most of my mornings start with a banana, a very early stumble down Capp Street, and a Gatorade after the gym, one bite made me think of a day beginning, a breakfast on nice plates in a room with a lot of sun and a view of a garden. From the toastiness of the oats, to the sweet, effusive jam-like quality of the dates, and the egg's richness, the elements reconfigured signifiers of breakfast without directly referencing the preparations I usually associate with the meal. It was highbrow, thoughtful, and slightly futuristic, though still comforting and cozy. The dish was what it was; whether or not my experience reflected the chef's intent was totally unimportant. I took about five minutes to eat less than two ounces of perfect lovely food, an Ice Age by my standards. Indeed, it was a very good start.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All dishes aim to satisfy. Some aim to challenge too, to make you think in the same way you're taught to pore over paintings, short stories, and films. To say chefs who cook for our brains as well as our bellies make art and not food is silly; food is a necessity, not a privilege, and the satisfaction we get from any food -- whether a carrot stick or an amuse-bouche prepared with a quarter-ton of expensive machinery -- begins with that need. That's what makes it so exciting, and kind of marvelous to behold, the continuum of agricultural and technological advances, cultural shifts, geographic realities, and economic changes that have taken us from raw mammoth to \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa\u003c/a> -- where Commis chef James Syhabout incidentally once toiled. The diner's role is much like that of a film or theater audience's. Participation is a function of showing up and consuming. Whether you detach and enjoy, or think about why everything is the way it is and why you're seeing it the way you're seeing it, your involvement reveals you. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/05/commis-halibut.jpg\" alt=\"halibut tartare with coriander snow at commis\" title=\"halibut tartare with coriander snow at commis\" width=\"500\" height=\"378\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13031\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Halibut tartare with coriander snow\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the halibut, which I ate after the egg. The menu listed local halibut tartare with ginger, Meyer lemon vinaigrette, coriander snow, pickled kelp, and sprouting radish. It came as a slippery translucent mass quivering on an over-sized white plate, delicious, squishy, sparkly, salty, gravelly things bobbing together; the \"snow\" was crumbles of coriandar-infused ice, crunching lightly and melting with each slurp. It was good as food, the flavors supremely balanced, harmonious, but it became magical because it captured my imagination. As I was enjoying it, I stopped thinking about halibut, ginger, a salad dressing -- the components that had been cut, prepped, and positioned on the plate -- and simply let myself eat surf. The aroma wafting above the plate was the air on a good beach, light and effervescent. My fork was like my seven-year-old feet on vacation, splashing through a tide pool in Northern Florida. I thought about the last time I went to the beach. It was a while ago, and I couldn't even remember when I'd been exactly, or what I'd done there. I live perilously close to the ocean, and yet I go to the beach three times a year, and even then only occasionally set foot in the water. After the halibut, that may change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With its modern sensibility and artful, gently \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Willy_Wonka\">Wonka\u003c/a>-esque approach to food, Commis feels like a lighter, brighter counterpart to Coi in San Francisco. A few months ago, I ate a magnificent meal at \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>. At the same time, the restaurant's dark and shadowy digs, stiff be-suited waiters with hushed voices purring all around, and plaintive indie-folk jams emanating ever so lushly from unseen stereo speakers made for a vaguely funereal climate. The broad show of restraint that made the innovative food so spectacular and subtle had me wincing self-consciously every time my fork glanced lightly off a plate. In contrast, Commis -- from the counters, to the walls, aprons, and windows -- is all whites and silvers -- sleek and minimal, yet airy, fresh-feeling, and just welcoming enough. You get the sense that you're floating off a page in a glossy magazine. My girlfriend's dad sat at the end of our table wearing a dark grey suede blazer and a light blue shirt. His hair is whiter than coriander snow. I took a picture of him with a glass of the wine he brought and he was so excited about the shot that he showed it to the waiter. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>California cuisine is not so much a style of cooking as a dogma, a way of considering the idea of cooking food spawned by the bounty our state produces, and the culture that has sprouted up around it. In 2005, shortly before he opened Coi, Daniel Patterson wrote \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2005/11/06/style/tmagazine/t_l_2192_2194_talk_tyranny_.html\">\"To the Moon, Alice?\"\u003c/a>, an article for The New York Times Magazine, in which he breaks it down like an ill-wrought mayonnaise. The charges still stick:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"[E]veryone seems content with one narrowly defined style of cooking. This happy coincidence of chefs, customers and members of the press all trapped in the same culinary \"Groundhog Day\" goes largely unquestioned. A San Francisco diner said: 'When I go out for a Wednesday-night meal, I don't want something in gelée. I want a pork chop or a bowl of pasta.' I heard this repeatedly. Craig Stoll, the chef and owner of Delfina, offered a view of local chefs as shepherds of sorts, herding the ingredients from farm to table. \"I can't separate the cooking style from the ingredients,\" he said. \"The style is defined by the ingredients.\" Another chef talked about 'the point of view of the carrot.' Seriously.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Surely top-notch ingredients are essential to any permutation of high-end cuisine. Assembling expensive, nuanced, technique-heavy dishes of aged Safeway cast-offs would be like building a mansion out of plywood, but to perpetually insist on the ingredients taking center stage -- that might be overly cautious, lazy, even boring. The carrot may indeed have a point of view. It might want to be more than just a carrot. Maybe carrotness can be a color, a tone, not merely a theme on which to meditate, but something to harness in the interest of larger missions, the sort of dreams chefs like Patterson and Syhabout chase. A carrot is a character. Sometimes it begs for a new script so it doesn't have to play itself all the time -- like Al Pacino in the 80s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/05/commis-butter.jpg\" alt=\"commis butter\" title=\"commis butter\" width=\"500\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13033\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Churned butter at Commis\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in my stomach, new, somewhat more substantial things were circulating: two slow-roasted knobs of sirloin with rendered marrow-caper sauce, spring garlic pudding, and purple potatoes roasted with hay -- an excellent if familiar sum of slightly more rarified-sounding parts -- and a fantastic salad of corned pork jowl with cooked and raw gem lettuce and a black trumpet mushroom vinaigrette. I briefly considered fashioning a mouth-guard out of one of the heftier pork pieces and wearing it all day. Yet throughout dinner, Commis stunned me most in an unexpected place: the butter dish -- in this case, a flat grey slate of stone. Plenty of restaurants churn their own butter. Commis does too, and has it cultured outside the restaurant. I'm no expert, but it didn't taste like most of the really good butter I've had. It was softer than most, funky-smelling like an aged goat cheese. Notes of lemon and lavender danced around the edges of each taste; they mellowed as the butter sat for a few minutes, reacting with the air like wine or cheese. The flavor was bright and fresh but simultaneously old and weird -- in a totally beguiling way. The milk that made the butter might have been from Humboldt, tugged from the udder of the noblest, peppiest, most joyful, grass-stuffed cow in California, but the butter itself was other worldly.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"It all starts -- literally -- with the egg -- this post, a life, my recent meal at Commis, a 10-month-old restaurant in Piedmont, Oakland. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1272989439,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":12,"wordCount":1416},"headData":{"title":"Commis is Crackin' | KQED","description":"It all starts -- literally -- with the egg -- this post, a life, my recent meal at Commis, a 10-month-old restaurant in Piedmont, Oakland. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Commis is Crackin'","datePublished":"2010-05-04T16:08:39.000Z","dateModified":"2010-05-04T16:10:39.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"13015 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=13015","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/05/04/commis-is-crackin/","disqusTitle":"Commis is Crackin'","path":"/bayareabites/13015/commis-is-crackin","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>It all starts -- literally -- with the egg -- this post, a life, my recent meal at \u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>, a 10-month-old restaurant in Piedmont, Oakland. An egg is a pretty perfect way to begin dinner, especially when, in the case of an inspired amuse-bouche, it evokes breakfast: a poached yolk the color of a setting sun couched in an onion soup. A smear of pureed dates lurked below the surface. Tidy piles of chive clippings and crunchy steel-cut oats flanked the yolk. Even though most of my mornings start with a banana, a very early stumble down Capp Street, and a Gatorade after the gym, one bite made me think of a day beginning, a breakfast on nice plates in a room with a lot of sun and a view of a garden. From the toastiness of the oats, to the sweet, effusive jam-like quality of the dates, and the egg's richness, the elements reconfigured signifiers of breakfast without directly referencing the preparations I usually associate with the meal. It was highbrow, thoughtful, and slightly futuristic, though still comforting and cozy. The dish was what it was; whether or not my experience reflected the chef's intent was totally unimportant. I took about five minutes to eat less than two ounces of perfect lovely food, an Ice Age by my standards. Indeed, it was a very good start.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All dishes aim to satisfy. Some aim to challenge too, to make you think in the same way you're taught to pore over paintings, short stories, and films. To say chefs who cook for our brains as well as our bellies make art and not food is silly; food is a necessity, not a privilege, and the satisfaction we get from any food -- whether a carrot stick or an amuse-bouche prepared with a quarter-ton of expensive machinery -- begins with that need. That's what makes it so exciting, and kind of marvelous to behold, the continuum of agricultural and technological advances, cultural shifts, geographic realities, and economic changes that have taken us from raw mammoth to \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa\u003c/a> -- where Commis chef James Syhabout incidentally once toiled. The diner's role is much like that of a film or theater audience's. Participation is a function of showing up and consuming. Whether you detach and enjoy, or think about why everything is the way it is and why you're seeing it the way you're seeing it, your involvement reveals you. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/05/commis-halibut.jpg\" alt=\"halibut tartare with coriander snow at commis\" title=\"halibut tartare with coriander snow at commis\" width=\"500\" height=\"378\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13031\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Halibut tartare with coriander snow\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the halibut, which I ate after the egg. The menu listed local halibut tartare with ginger, Meyer lemon vinaigrette, coriander snow, pickled kelp, and sprouting radish. It came as a slippery translucent mass quivering on an over-sized white plate, delicious, squishy, sparkly, salty, gravelly things bobbing together; the \"snow\" was crumbles of coriandar-infused ice, crunching lightly and melting with each slurp. It was good as food, the flavors supremely balanced, harmonious, but it became magical because it captured my imagination. As I was enjoying it, I stopped thinking about halibut, ginger, a salad dressing -- the components that had been cut, prepped, and positioned on the plate -- and simply let myself eat surf. The aroma wafting above the plate was the air on a good beach, light and effervescent. My fork was like my seven-year-old feet on vacation, splashing through a tide pool in Northern Florida. I thought about the last time I went to the beach. It was a while ago, and I couldn't even remember when I'd been exactly, or what I'd done there. I live perilously close to the ocean, and yet I go to the beach three times a year, and even then only occasionally set foot in the water. After the halibut, that may change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With its modern sensibility and artful, gently \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Willy_Wonka\">Wonka\u003c/a>-esque approach to food, Commis feels like a lighter, brighter counterpart to Coi in San Francisco. A few months ago, I ate a magnificent meal at \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>. At the same time, the restaurant's dark and shadowy digs, stiff be-suited waiters with hushed voices purring all around, and plaintive indie-folk jams emanating ever so lushly from unseen stereo speakers made for a vaguely funereal climate. The broad show of restraint that made the innovative food so spectacular and subtle had me wincing self-consciously every time my fork glanced lightly off a plate. In contrast, Commis -- from the counters, to the walls, aprons, and windows -- is all whites and silvers -- sleek and minimal, yet airy, fresh-feeling, and just welcoming enough. You get the sense that you're floating off a page in a glossy magazine. My girlfriend's dad sat at the end of our table wearing a dark grey suede blazer and a light blue shirt. His hair is whiter than coriander snow. I took a picture of him with a glass of the wine he brought and he was so excited about the shot that he showed it to the waiter. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>California cuisine is not so much a style of cooking as a dogma, a way of considering the idea of cooking food spawned by the bounty our state produces, and the culture that has sprouted up around it. In 2005, shortly before he opened Coi, Daniel Patterson wrote \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2005/11/06/style/tmagazine/t_l_2192_2194_talk_tyranny_.html\">\"To the Moon, Alice?\"\u003c/a>, an article for The New York Times Magazine, in which he breaks it down like an ill-wrought mayonnaise. The charges still stick:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"[E]veryone seems content with one narrowly defined style of cooking. This happy coincidence of chefs, customers and members of the press all trapped in the same culinary \"Groundhog Day\" goes largely unquestioned. A San Francisco diner said: 'When I go out for a Wednesday-night meal, I don't want something in gelée. I want a pork chop or a bowl of pasta.' I heard this repeatedly. Craig Stoll, the chef and owner of Delfina, offered a view of local chefs as shepherds of sorts, herding the ingredients from farm to table. \"I can't separate the cooking style from the ingredients,\" he said. \"The style is defined by the ingredients.\" Another chef talked about 'the point of view of the carrot.' Seriously.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Surely top-notch ingredients are essential to any permutation of high-end cuisine. Assembling expensive, nuanced, technique-heavy dishes of aged Safeway cast-offs would be like building a mansion out of plywood, but to perpetually insist on the ingredients taking center stage -- that might be overly cautious, lazy, even boring. The carrot may indeed have a point of view. It might want to be more than just a carrot. Maybe carrotness can be a color, a tone, not merely a theme on which to meditate, but something to harness in the interest of larger missions, the sort of dreams chefs like Patterson and Syhabout chase. A carrot is a character. Sometimes it begs for a new script so it doesn't have to play itself all the time -- like Al Pacino in the 80s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/05/commis-butter.jpg\" alt=\"commis butter\" title=\"commis butter\" width=\"500\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-13033\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Churned butter at Commis\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back in my stomach, new, somewhat more substantial things were circulating: two slow-roasted knobs of sirloin with rendered marrow-caper sauce, spring garlic pudding, and purple potatoes roasted with hay -- an excellent if familiar sum of slightly more rarified-sounding parts -- and a fantastic salad of corned pork jowl with cooked and raw gem lettuce and a black trumpet mushroom vinaigrette. I briefly considered fashioning a mouth-guard out of one of the heftier pork pieces and wearing it all day. Yet throughout dinner, Commis stunned me most in an unexpected place: the butter dish -- in this case, a flat grey slate of stone. Plenty of restaurants churn their own butter. Commis does too, and has it cultured outside the restaurant. I'm no expert, but it didn't taste like most of the really good butter I've had. It was softer than most, funky-smelling like an aged goat cheese. Notes of lemon and lavender danced around the edges of each taste; they mellowed as the butter sat for a few minutes, reacting with the air like wine or cheese. The flavor was bright and fresh but simultaneously old and weird -- in a totally beguiling way. The milk that made the butter might have been from Humboldt, tugged from the udder of the noblest, peppiest, most joyful, grass-stuffed cow in California, but the butter itself was other worldly.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/13015/commis-is-crackin","authors":["5060"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10"],"tags":["bayareabites_234","bayareabites_4000","bayareabites_3998","bayareabites_3995","bayareabites_3999","bayareabites_4001","bayareabites_3996","bayareabites_3997","bayareabites_14757"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. 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