Bonjour, Marina: Le Marais Bakery Opens on Chestnut Street
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Rosenbaum Klassen","firstName":"Stephanie","lastName":"Rosenbaum Klassen","slug":"stephanie-rosenbaum","email":"dixieday@aol.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen is a longtime local food writer, author, and cook. Her books include The Art of Vintage Cocktails (Egg & Dart Press), World of Doughnuts (Egg & Dart Press); Kids in the Kitchen: Fun Food (Williams Sonoma); Honey from Flower to Table (Chronicle Books) and The Astrology Cookbook: A Cosmic Guide to Feasts of Love (Manic D Press). She has studied organic farming at UCSC and holds a certificate in Ecological Horticulture from the Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems. She does frequent cooking demonstrations at local farmers’ markets and has taught food writing at Media Alliance in San Francisco and the Continuing Education program at Stanford University. She has been the lead restaurant critic for the San Francisco Bay Guardian as well as for San Francisco magazine. She has been an assistant chef at the Headlands Center for the Arts, an artists' residency program located in the Marin Headlands, and a production cook at the Marin Sun Farms Cafe in Pt Reyes Station. After some 20 years in San Francisco interspersed with stints in Oakland, Santa Cruz, Brooklyn, and Manhattan, she recently moved to Sonoma county but still writes in San Francisco several days a week.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"sjrosenbaum","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/stephanie-rosenbaum"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_64978":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_64978","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"64978","score":null,"sort":[1373651031000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"bonjour-marina-le-marais-bakery-opens-on-chestnut-street","title":"Bonjour, Marina: Le Marais Bakery Opens on Chestnut Street","publishDate":1373651031,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/exterior1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/exterior1000-290x217.jpg\" title=\"Exterior of Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" alt=\"Exterior of Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-65210\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/InteriorRoom1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/InteriorRoom1000-290x217.jpg\" title=\"Interior of Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" alt=\"Interior of Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-65211\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is it ever a bad day to wake up in the Marina?* Those views, that bay, those clean streets, all those shiny happy people running and Frisbee-ing along the green...and now, a charming French bakery, too! \u003cem>Quel bonheur!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just opened last week on Chestnut near Fillmore, \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/LeMaraisBakery\">Le Marais Bakery\u003c/a>, named after a particularly lively and well-loved district of Paris, is already becoming a locals' hangout. Fueled by \u003ca href=\"http://stumptowncoffee.com/\">Stumptown coffee\u003c/a>, the bakery features a small but well-selected spread of Paris-worthy pastries, tarts, croissants, and breads. It's the lifetime dream of owner Patrick Ascaso, a native Frenchman who grew up just outside Paris and has lived in San Francisco since 1995. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65221\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/pastrycase1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/pastrycase1000.jpg\" alt=\"Pastry case at Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65221\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pastry case at Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Working in finance in New York City in the early 1980s, he was appalled at the lack of quality baked goods. \"Frozen croissants!\" he said, remembering how the few bakeries that served croissants back then simply baked off a pre-made, frozen product. Chatting with a friend, Ascaso suggested that maybe they should give up Wall Street and open an authentic French bakery instead. Not surprisingly, the friend declined, and Ascaso put his dream on hold for a few decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65199\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/croissant1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/croissant1000.jpg\" alt=\"Croissant from Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65199\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Croissant from Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, however, that dream--and its proper, made-from-scratch croissants, which are already as good, if not better, than my previous favorites at Sandbox in Bernal Heights--has come to fruition. Ascaso is the money-and-vision man; the baking he leaves to the professionals, including well-tattooed baker Justin Brown, freshly transplanted from Bien Cuit and Roberta's, both in Brooklyn, and pastry chef Phil Ogiela, recently the pastry chef at the Mission's Dandelion Chocolate, after stints at Aziza, Fifth Floor, and Elisabeth Daniel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65235\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/croissants-case1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/croissants-case1000a.jpg\" alt=\"Croissant display at Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65235\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Croissant display at Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Asked about his favorites, Ascaso mentions that while the plain croissants are great and selling \"like hotcakes,\" his particular pride is the bakery's chocolate-banana croissant, something you won't find anywhere else. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I am partial, because the banana croissant is my childhood dream... As a child, that croissant didn't exist, but bread, banana, and chocolate was what we got at three o'clock. So this has been my dream for the last 30 years: That if I open a bakery, I will do a chocolate banana croissant.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Brown, who makes both the breads and \"viennoisserie,\" or yeasted pastries, rose to the challenge and created a banana-added version of his already-lush \u003cem>pain au chocolate.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65213\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/painauxraisins1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/painauxraisins1000.jpg\" alt=\"Pain aux raisins. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65213\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pain aux raisins. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Talking to Brown on a recent morning, I put in a vote for my favorite French pastry, the chausson de pomme, a half-moon turnover filled with melting apple. It's in the works for September, he assured me, when apples are in season again. Until then, I'll start the morning with his rich pain aux raisins, a swirl of enriched croissant dough rolled around lots of soft, sweet raisins and a lick of eggy vanilla custard. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65207\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/BreadBakerJustinBrown1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/BreadBakerJustinBrown1000.jpg\" alt=\"Bread Baker Justin Brown. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65207\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bread Baker Justin Brown. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Starting around 10AM, the first round loaves of bread--country levain, whole wheat, rye--start to emerge from Brown's oven. They're made from a natural sourdough starter, rising slowly over 24 to 72 hours to develop the flavor of the grain. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65212\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/pastrychefPhilOgiela1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/pastrychefPhilOgiela1000.jpg\" alt=\"Pastry Chef Phil Ogiela. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65212\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pastry Chef Phil Ogiela. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Later in the day, for the casse-croute crowd, the case fills up again with pastries, the purview of pastry chef Phil Ogiela. In his individual fruit tarts, figs, blueberries, and raspberries are buttressed by overlapping half-moons of peach, translucent and glowing. Rounded, stumpy bouchons, like smaller, more elegant muffins, come in breakfasty flavors--blueberry, banana--in the morning, moving on to carrot cake and a brownie-like chocolate in the afternoon. Gateau Basque (rich shortcrust pastry baked around a filling of pastry cream and apricots, and a longtime favorite of Ascaso's) and pain de genes (a buttery almond cake that's flourless and thus gluten-free) are his signature pastries right now; there's also a delectably light and citrusy lemon pound cake, developed by consulting baker Rosemary Winter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65215\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/bouchonslemoncake640x360.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/bouchonslemoncake640x360.jpg\" alt=\"Bouchons and Lemon Cake. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65215\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bouchons and Lemon Cake. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During his time working in the kitchen at the Moroccan restaurant Aziza, pastry chef Ogiela discovered the surprising affinity between dark chocolate and the North African spice blend ras el hanoot; he's currently perfecting a chocolate financier (a small, brick- or oval-shaped cake) spiced with ras el hanoot. He dreams of tender, shell-shaped madeleines coming hot out of the oven every hour, brushed with a tart lemon syrup. (While at Dandelion, he perfected a cornflour and lavender madeleine, which \"tasted like the world's best cornbread, to me,\" he said, as well as one flavored with almond and cardamom.) \"I'm thinking of doing some free-form tarts, not necessarily tarts in a tart shell,\" but more rustic and galette-like. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65205\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/patries10001.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/patries10001.jpg\" alt=\"Pastries from Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65205\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pastries from Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Perhaps there'll be a souffle program, where locals will know to drop in at a certain time each day for sweet or savory souffles. Since the pastry case isn't refrigerated, the recent heat wave has precluded much in the way of buttercreams and layered cakes, which Ogiela hopes to experiment with in the future. \"I'd like to do dacquoise. I love meringue cakes, layer cakes...I have so many cakes!\" He pulls out his phone and starts scrolling through an album of cakes: a shiny, deep-chocolate mocha cake; financiers in salted caramel and chocolate-orange marmalade; a gluten-free pistachio roulade (a light, rolled spongecake made from nuts, egg whites, and sugar) filled with pistachio mousse and glazed with chocolate-mint ganache.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/chocolate-thing1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/chocolate-thing1000-290x194.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate pastry from Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"290\" height=\"194\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-65198\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/carrot-muffin1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/carrot-muffin1000-290x194.jpg\" alt=\"Carrot cake from Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"290\" height=\"194\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-65197\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's all evolving, in a narrow but pleasant little storefront, designed by Sean Quigley and his team from \u003ca href=\"http://www.paxtongate.com/design/\">Paxton Gate\u003c/a>, using bundt pans as lighting fixtures, and floors of French limestone, of the kind originally used for millstones. And while the Bay Area's seen no shortage of new bakeries opening this year, so far Le Marais looks like a keeper. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/banana-bread1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/banana-bread1000-290x194.jpg\" alt=\"Banana bread from Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"290\" height=\"194\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-65195\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/plum-tart1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/plum-tart1000a-290x194.jpg\" alt=\"Plum tartlette. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"290\" height=\"194\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-65194\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.lemaraisbakery.com\">Le Marais Bakery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/2fSvU\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2066 Chestnut St\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94123\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (415) 359-9801\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Mon-Sun 7am-7pm\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/lemaraisbakery\">Le Marais Bakery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/lemaraisbakery\">@lemaraisbakery\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>*Besides, of course, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1989_Loma_Prieta_earthquake\">Oct 17, 1989\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The Marina gets a taste of France with the opening of the new Le Marais Bakery. See what Stephanie Rosenbaum thinks about their croissants, and find out the sweet plans that owner Patrick Ascaso, baker Justin Brown, and pastry chef Phil Ogiela have in store. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1383234591,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":1062},"headData":{"title":"Bonjour, Marina: Le Marais Bakery Opens on Chestnut Street | KQED","description":"The Marina gets a taste of France with the opening of the new Le Marais Bakery. See what Stephanie Rosenbaum thinks about their croissants, and find out the sweet plans that owner Patrick Ascaso, baker Justin Brown, and pastry chef Phil Ogiela have in store. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Bonjour, Marina: Le Marais Bakery Opens on Chestnut Street","datePublished":"2013-07-12T17:43:51.000Z","dateModified":"2013-10-31T15:49:51.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"64978 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=64978","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/07/12/bonjour-marina-le-marais-bakery-opens-on-chestnut-street/","disqusTitle":"Bonjour, Marina: Le Marais Bakery Opens on Chestnut Street","path":"/bayareabites/64978/bonjour-marina-le-marais-bakery-opens-on-chestnut-street","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/exterior1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/exterior1000-290x217.jpg\" title=\"Exterior of Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" alt=\"Exterior of Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-65210\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/InteriorRoom1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/InteriorRoom1000-290x217.jpg\" title=\"Interior of Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" alt=\"Interior of Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-65211\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is it ever a bad day to wake up in the Marina?* Those views, that bay, those clean streets, all those shiny happy people running and Frisbee-ing along the green...and now, a charming French bakery, too! \u003cem>Quel bonheur!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just opened last week on Chestnut near Fillmore, \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/LeMaraisBakery\">Le Marais Bakery\u003c/a>, named after a particularly lively and well-loved district of Paris, is already becoming a locals' hangout. Fueled by \u003ca href=\"http://stumptowncoffee.com/\">Stumptown coffee\u003c/a>, the bakery features a small but well-selected spread of Paris-worthy pastries, tarts, croissants, and breads. It's the lifetime dream of owner Patrick Ascaso, a native Frenchman who grew up just outside Paris and has lived in San Francisco since 1995. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65221\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/pastrycase1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/pastrycase1000.jpg\" alt=\"Pastry case at Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65221\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pastry case at Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Working in finance in New York City in the early 1980s, he was appalled at the lack of quality baked goods. \"Frozen croissants!\" he said, remembering how the few bakeries that served croissants back then simply baked off a pre-made, frozen product. Chatting with a friend, Ascaso suggested that maybe they should give up Wall Street and open an authentic French bakery instead. Not surprisingly, the friend declined, and Ascaso put his dream on hold for a few decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65199\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/croissant1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/croissant1000.jpg\" alt=\"Croissant from Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65199\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Croissant from Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now, however, that dream--and its proper, made-from-scratch croissants, which are already as good, if not better, than my previous favorites at Sandbox in Bernal Heights--has come to fruition. Ascaso is the money-and-vision man; the baking he leaves to the professionals, including well-tattooed baker Justin Brown, freshly transplanted from Bien Cuit and Roberta's, both in Brooklyn, and pastry chef Phil Ogiela, recently the pastry chef at the Mission's Dandelion Chocolate, after stints at Aziza, Fifth Floor, and Elisabeth Daniel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65235\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/croissants-case1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/croissants-case1000a.jpg\" alt=\"Croissant display at Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65235\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Croissant display at Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Asked about his favorites, Ascaso mentions that while the plain croissants are great and selling \"like hotcakes,\" his particular pride is the bakery's chocolate-banana croissant, something you won't find anywhere else. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I am partial, because the banana croissant is my childhood dream... As a child, that croissant didn't exist, but bread, banana, and chocolate was what we got at three o'clock. So this has been my dream for the last 30 years: That if I open a bakery, I will do a chocolate banana croissant.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Brown, who makes both the breads and \"viennoisserie,\" or yeasted pastries, rose to the challenge and created a banana-added version of his already-lush \u003cem>pain au chocolate.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65213\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/painauxraisins1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/painauxraisins1000.jpg\" alt=\"Pain aux raisins. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65213\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pain aux raisins. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Talking to Brown on a recent morning, I put in a vote for my favorite French pastry, the chausson de pomme, a half-moon turnover filled with melting apple. It's in the works for September, he assured me, when apples are in season again. Until then, I'll start the morning with his rich pain aux raisins, a swirl of enriched croissant dough rolled around lots of soft, sweet raisins and a lick of eggy vanilla custard. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65207\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/BreadBakerJustinBrown1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/BreadBakerJustinBrown1000.jpg\" alt=\"Bread Baker Justin Brown. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65207\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bread Baker Justin Brown. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Starting around 10AM, the first round loaves of bread--country levain, whole wheat, rye--start to emerge from Brown's oven. They're made from a natural sourdough starter, rising slowly over 24 to 72 hours to develop the flavor of the grain. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65212\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/pastrychefPhilOgiela1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/pastrychefPhilOgiela1000.jpg\" alt=\"Pastry Chef Phil Ogiela. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"1000\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65212\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pastry Chef Phil Ogiela. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Later in the day, for the casse-croute crowd, the case fills up again with pastries, the purview of pastry chef Phil Ogiela. In his individual fruit tarts, figs, blueberries, and raspberries are buttressed by overlapping half-moons of peach, translucent and glowing. Rounded, stumpy bouchons, like smaller, more elegant muffins, come in breakfasty flavors--blueberry, banana--in the morning, moving on to carrot cake and a brownie-like chocolate in the afternoon. Gateau Basque (rich shortcrust pastry baked around a filling of pastry cream and apricots, and a longtime favorite of Ascaso's) and pain de genes (a buttery almond cake that's flourless and thus gluten-free) are his signature pastries right now; there's also a delectably light and citrusy lemon pound cake, developed by consulting baker Rosemary Winter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65215\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/bouchonslemoncake640x360.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/bouchonslemoncake640x360.jpg\" alt=\"Bouchons and Lemon Cake. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65215\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bouchons and Lemon Cake. Photo: Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During his time working in the kitchen at the Moroccan restaurant Aziza, pastry chef Ogiela discovered the surprising affinity between dark chocolate and the North African spice blend ras el hanoot; he's currently perfecting a chocolate financier (a small, brick- or oval-shaped cake) spiced with ras el hanoot. He dreams of tender, shell-shaped madeleines coming hot out of the oven every hour, brushed with a tart lemon syrup. (While at Dandelion, he perfected a cornflour and lavender madeleine, which \"tasted like the world's best cornbread, to me,\" he said, as well as one flavored with almond and cardamom.) \"I'm thinking of doing some free-form tarts, not necessarily tarts in a tart shell,\" but more rustic and galette-like. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65205\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/patries10001.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/patries10001.jpg\" alt=\"Pastries from Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"1000\" height=\"669\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65205\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pastries from Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Perhaps there'll be a souffle program, where locals will know to drop in at a certain time each day for sweet or savory souffles. Since the pastry case isn't refrigerated, the recent heat wave has precluded much in the way of buttercreams and layered cakes, which Ogiela hopes to experiment with in the future. \"I'd like to do dacquoise. I love meringue cakes, layer cakes...I have so many cakes!\" He pulls out his phone and starts scrolling through an album of cakes: a shiny, deep-chocolate mocha cake; financiers in salted caramel and chocolate-orange marmalade; a gluten-free pistachio roulade (a light, rolled spongecake made from nuts, egg whites, and sugar) filled with pistachio mousse and glazed with chocolate-mint ganache.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/chocolate-thing1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/chocolate-thing1000-290x194.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate pastry from Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"290\" height=\"194\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-65198\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/carrot-muffin1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/carrot-muffin1000-290x194.jpg\" alt=\"Carrot cake from Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"290\" height=\"194\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-65197\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's all evolving, in a narrow but pleasant little storefront, designed by Sean Quigley and his team from \u003ca href=\"http://www.paxtongate.com/design/\">Paxton Gate\u003c/a>, using bundt pans as lighting fixtures, and floors of French limestone, of the kind originally used for millstones. And while the Bay Area's seen no shortage of new bakeries opening this year, so far Le Marais looks like a keeper. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/banana-bread1000.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/banana-bread1000-290x194.jpg\" alt=\"Banana bread from Le Marais Bakery. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"290\" height=\"194\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-65195\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/plum-tart1000a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/plum-tart1000a-290x194.jpg\" alt=\"Plum tartlette. Photo: Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"290\" height=\"194\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-65194\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Information:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.lemaraisbakery.com\">Le Marais Bakery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Address:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/maps/2fSvU\">Map\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2066 Chestnut St\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94123\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Phone:\u003c/strong> (415) 359-9801\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Hours:\u003c/strong> Mon-Sun 7am-7pm\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Facebook:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/lemaraisbakery\">Le Marais Bakery\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Twitter:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/lemaraisbakery\">@lemaraisbakery\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>*Besides, of course, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1989_Loma_Prieta_earthquake\">Oct 17, 1989\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/64978/bonjour-marina-le-marais-bakery-opens-on-chestnut-street","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_10851","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_11974","bayareabites_843","bayareabites_11973","bayareabites_11972","bayareabites_9203","bayareabites_11971","bayareabites_373"],"featImg":"bayareabites_65216","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? 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Hosts Steve Inskeep, David Greene and Rachel Martin bring you the latest breaking news and features to prepare you for the day.","airtime":"MON-FRI 3am-9am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Morning-Edition-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/morning-edition/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/morning-edition"},"onourwatch":{"id":"onourwatch","title":"On Our Watch","tagline":"Police secrets, unsealed","info":"For decades, the process for how police police themselves has been inconsistent – if not opaque. In some states, like California, these proceedings were completely hidden. After a new police transparency law unsealed scores of internal affairs files, our reporters set out to examine these cases and the shadow world of police discipline. On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"On Our Watch from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/onourwatch","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"1"},"link":"/podcasts/onourwatch","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1567098962","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/onourwatch","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0OLWoyizopu6tY1XiuX70x","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/On-Our-Watch-p1436229/","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/show/on-our-watch","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510360/podcast.xml"}},"on-the-media":{"id":"on-the-media","title":"On The Media","info":"Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. For one hour a week, the show tries to lift the veil from the process of \"making media,\" especially news media, because it's through that lens that we see the world and the world sees us","airtime":"SUN 2pm-3pm, MON 12am-1am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/onTheMedia.png","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.wnycstudios.org/shows/otm","meta":{"site":"news","source":"wnyc"},"link":"/radio/program/on-the-media","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/on-the-media/id73330715?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/On-the-Media-p69/","rss":"http://feeds.wnyc.org/onthemedia"}},"our-body-politic":{"id":"our-body-politic","title":"Our Body Politic","info":"Presented by KQED, KCRW and KPCC, and created and hosted by award-winning journalist Farai Chideya, Our Body Politic is unapologetically centered on reporting on not just how women of color experience the major political events of today, but how they’re impacting those very issues.","airtime":"SAT 6pm-7pm, SUN 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Our-Body-Politic-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://our-body-politic.simplecast.com/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kcrw"},"link":"/radio/program/our-body-politic","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/our-body-politic/id1533069868","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5zaW1wbGVjYXN0LmNvbS9feGFQaHMxcw","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/4ApAiLT1kV153TttWAmqmc","rss":"https://feeds.simplecast.com/_xaPhs1s","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/podcasts/News--Politics-Podcasts/Our-Body-Politic-p1369211/"}},"pbs-newshour":{"id":"pbs-newshour","title":"PBS NewsHour","info":"Analysis, background reports and updates from the PBS NewsHour putting today's news in context.","airtime":"MON-FRI 3pm-4pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/PBS-News-Hour-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.pbs.org/newshour/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"pbs"},"link":"/radio/program/pbs-newshour","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/pbs-newshour-full-show/id394432287?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/PBS-NewsHour---Full-Show-p425698/","rss":"https://www.pbs.org/newshour/feeds/rss/podcasts/show"}},"perspectives":{"id":"perspectives","title":"Perspectives","tagline":"KQED's series of of daily listener commentaries since 1991","info":"KQED's series of of daily listener commentaries since 1991.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Perspectives-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/perspectives/","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"kqed","order":"15"},"link":"/perspectives","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/id73801135","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432309616/perspectives","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/perspectives/category/perspectives/feed/","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvcGVyc3BlY3RpdmVzL2NhdGVnb3J5L3BlcnNwZWN0aXZlcy9mZWVkLw"}},"planet-money":{"id":"planet-money","title":"Planet Money","info":"The economy explained. 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