The Bay Area Restaurant System Was Always Broken. How Do We Fix It?
First Taste: Reopened Aziza Dishes Moroccan-Spiced Happiness in Outer Richmond
Q&A with Mourad Lahlou, Chef and Culinary Diplomat
Moroccan Cookbook Throwdown: Paula Wolfert's The Food of Morocco vs. Mourad: New Moroccan
Food Secrets of Chef/Restaurateur Staffan Terje
Bay Area Chefs on How to Select Winter Produce, Part 2
Food Secrets of Chef/Restaurateur/Writer Daniel Patterson
SF Food Wars: The Essential New York Times Cookbook Brunch
StarChefs.com's Rising Stars Revue
Sponsored
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How Do We Fix It?","publishDate":1589930986,"format":"image","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Before the COVID-19 pandemic, the Bay Area \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">food\u003c/span> industry was in a quiet but persistent crisis. The majority of \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">restaurant\u003c/span> workers earned far below a living wage for the region, even for jobs with tips factored in. Steadily rising residential and commercial rents meant that \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">restaurant\u003c/span> owners swallowed slim margins as an industry standard that would outlive their ambitions. Farmworkers across the state toiled from dusk until dawn with no employer or government safety nets to count on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then the pandemic hit and “everything changed,” said Mourad Lahlou, the chef and owner of Mourad and Aziza in San Francisco. “It shattered what was solid, and it exposed what was weak.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From farms to restaurants and workers, there’s a lot of uncertainty that hangs over food systems and its fragile infrastructure. Amidst the crisis, is there potential to rebuild a more equitable food industry? What solutions could address the flaws that predate the pandemic? These are the questions we asked seven Bay Area food figures who are grappling with long-lived issues magnified by a new reality.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Restaurant Dilemma\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou, chef and owner of Mourad and Aziza\u003cem>: \u003c/em>\u003c/strong>The problem is not so much when we're going to be able to open our restaurants again. What's going to happen is they're going to let us open at half capacity. People are going to be freaked out about sitting around other people. We're going to start taking temperatures of people who come in. We're going to start wearing gloves and masks and have disposable menus as if we were a business that had a big margin where we can afford to do these things. Our rent is going to be the same. The insurance companies are going to charge the same premiums. Minimum wage is still the same. It's incomprehensible to even think that anybody is going to survive this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If we don't really address these issues now in a very forceful way, I truly believe that the impact of this is going to last way beyond the vaccine or the eradication of this pandemic. That's what keeps me up at night. It’s so scary to me that only the big corporations are going to have the means and the possibility to open restaurants whenever they want, wherever they want. That desire for people to share their culture wherever they're coming from, I'm afraid that's going to go away and the diversity [of the industry] is going to be damaged.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137277\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137277\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-800x533.jpeg\" alt=\"Mourad Lahlou of Aziza and Mourad in San Francisco fears the pandemic and its aftermath will decimate diversity in dining. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-1020x680.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mourad Lahlou of Aziza and Mourad in San Francisco fears the pandemic and its aftermath will decimate diversity in dining. \u003ccite>(Jude Rywelski )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There were almost immoral conditions for people to be able to survive in cities like San Francisco where people could not even afford to live in the places they work. We, as a public and as operators, talked about it quite a bit, but we were never able to turn the corner on it. In return, we were squeezing everybody from the farmer to staff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote citation='Emiliana Puyana']'For some folks reopening their doors will be a similar investment to the investment they had to make when they opened their restaurant in the first place.'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Emiliana Puyana, Program Manager, La Cocina:\u003c/strong> What we've overwhelmingly seen at La Cocina is a reduction in sales and revenue, anywhere from 80% all the way up to 100%. The food industry is incredibly difficult. It's a business with such slim profit margins where seven to 10 percent is an industry standard. Commercial real estate in this town is untenable. That piece of the puzzle has played a big role in this effort to survive the crisis. The vast majority of businesses that cannot reach some sort of full rent abatement or meaningful rent negotiations with their landlords — it will be impossible [for them] to reopen. And that's not taking into account other outstanding loans that businesses might have, rehiring so many employees and restocking your kitchens. For some folks, reopening their doors will be a similar investment to the investment they had to make when they opened their restaurant in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a really difficult time, a time that puts a lot of people's livelihoods at risk. Not just the restaurant owners, but everybody that's employed within this industry. But it also allows this industry a chance to reassess and build a system that takes more factors into account. Not all restaurants are built the same. What a small mom-and-pop shop in the Mission needs might look very different than what a small mom-and-pop shop in [San Francisco's] Chinatown needs. It's not until we start really working together with the support of folks who can bring about change and fight on our behalf that we'll see the outcome we need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137278\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137278\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-800x568.png\" alt=\"Incubator La Cocina's is offering multi-meal food boxes to offset the severe fall in revenue its businesses have experienced.\" width=\"800\" height=\"568\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-800x568.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-160x114.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-768x545.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-1020x724.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung.png 1491w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Incubator La Cocina offers food boxes from its businesses to offset their revenue losses. \u003ccite>(Gene X Hwang / Orange Photography )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We are very fortunate to not have a \u003ca href=\"https://time.com/5404475/history-tipping-american-restaurants-civil-war/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">tipped minimum wage\u003c/a> here in the state of California. But at the same time, the vast majority of our employees in the food industry are not [getting] a living wage [and] restaurant owners are unable to bear any more weight on that front. I don't know what the answer is there, but it seems like we need to ensure that we have affordable housing and more of it so that we can keep folks wanting to work in this industry in our area, which was already a huge problem before this crisis hit. Will there be anybody willing to work for $15 an hour or $16 an hour, when they're going to need to be on a crowded train coming into cities to work from wherever they live in order to be able to afford housing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria Moreno, Community Organizer, Restaurant Opportunities Center\u003c/strong>: I feel really privileged and honored to be doing this work during this time. I feel like now more than ever an organization like ours has proved to be essential for workers. [We’re] getting funds out to people, answering people's critical questions [so they can] receive benefits for those who have benefits, advocating for those who don't receive any benefits, and uplifting the voice of workers from all sectors and from all socioeconomic backgrounds. It has felt really purposeful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote citation='Maria Moreno']'This industry is so fragile and there's so many people that depend on it. Why continue to pretend that it's not a professional career?'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This industry is so fragile and there's so many people that depend on it. Why continue to pretend that it's not a professional career? It is for so many. So why don't we treat it like that? I want an industry where we're considered a real professional career. We can send that message by providing paid sick time for everyone, [by] providing health benefits, by providing ways for people to save their money in the same way that other companies allow you to [make] investments.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Inequities that Predate the Pandemic\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shakirah Simley, Director of San Francisco's Office of Racial Equity: \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was a disaster before the pandemic. Public health emergencies exploit existing systemic inequalities across the board. Prior to the pandemic, one in four San Franciscans, that's over 200,000 people, were experiencing food insecurity. And now, [that] number has likely skyrocketed. We have existing food insecurity, we have people who are laid off and becoming newly food insecure. We have the particulars of the pandemics that make it hard to access food: transportation, the need to socially distance, the need to wear face covering, limitation on store hours and the impact that COVID-19 continues up the chain for our farmers, for our producers. In the Bay Area, we are surrounded by so much wealth. For us to be tackling such a baseline need and how much it has expanded is really intense.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postid='bayareabites_136549,bayareabites_136564,bayareabites_136903' label='The Food Industry Adapts']\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't think just because we open again, it's going to go back to “normal.” This society was never normal for a lot of people. It was never normal for communities of color, for LGBTQI communities, for folks who are undocumented.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vincent Medina, co-founder, Cafe Ohlone:\u003c/strong> We come from this community that's had disease imposed as a weapon and weaponized against our people in the past. When we shut down [Cafe Ohlone], we knew that we had to turn that moment into focused work for our community: making sure that our elders [had] enough food, that our grandparents had what they needed; that people knew to prepare before grocery stores would be entirely swarmed; that we were able to find ways to provide culture to our community, even if it meant digitally; finding ways to share language, [and] spend this extent of time really searching through those old archives about ways that our community has historically responded to epidemics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137275\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137275\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-800x484.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"484\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-800x484.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-160x97.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-768x464.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-1020x617.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone.png 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino have convened with Cafe Ohlone staff digitally while focusing their attention towards caring for elders in their community. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cafe Ohlone)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Our Tribe, the Muwekma Ohlone Tribe, was historically recognized by the American government, called the Verona Band Alameda County and based on the Pleasanton Rancheria, which was the sovereign piece of Indian land in Pleasanton. That's where my great grandmother was born. As a result of UC Berkeley in 1925 erroneously writing that our people were extinct, in 1927 an agent from the Bureau of Indian affairs struck our Tribe off the list of recognized tribes. Ever since then, our Tribe has been working to have that federal recognition restored. What this means [is] that we don't have a protected land base where we could be able to live together as a community. Nowadays, what we do is we negotiate relationships with park districts. We negotiated gathering permits with certain East Bay regional parks [and] we've been able to gather our foods there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Louis Trevino, co-founder, Cafe Ohlone: \u003c/strong>The East Bay Park District and the Hayward Area Recreation District and other park districts in the area deciding to close trails and parks [where it is] difficult to social distance is a responsible thing to do, but it is also a way that the park districts are exercising the ability to lock the gates. [Doing so] excludes the most local indigenous people, Vincent's family here in the East Bay, the Muwekma Ohlone Tribe, from being able to go out into their ancestral places. It sheds light on the fact that even though today we have been able to negotiate leverage positive relationships with the East Bay park park district, that relationship still exists within a colonial framework.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote citation='Vincent Medina']'In this time of a slowdown, we can really dream and imagine.'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vincent Medina: \u003c/strong>We want to make sure that we're continuing to do what we do, where we gather our foods with prayer and gratitude. We feed our community and we teach the public. But we also know that whatever we're going to do into the future, it's going to have to move slowly, carefully and cautiously. And Cafe Ohlone, it’s not going to look exactly like what it did before the shutdown where the cafe was so full that we would have to turn some people away for that time and invite them back. One of the potential outcomes of all of this could be this beautiful transformative time where a lot of those flaws that are having light shed on them can be corrected and fixed. In this time of a slowdown, we can really dream and imagine right now as we're, as we're all stuck inside. We know that our wisdom as Ohlone people and the wisdom that our elders carry and teach is more needed right now than ever. It has the ability to teach us that there's a better way forward that can transform the faltering society that we're living in, into something that's much more meaningful and richer.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Finding Solutions and Leveraging Momentum\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shakirah Simley: \u003c/strong>Sometimes what you see within pandemics is that you can be more flexible and creative in thinking about recovery. Advocates have been working for half a decade to get people to be able to buy groceries online with food stamps, and it happened in a snap. I'm hoping [we keep] the flexibility and adaptability of some of these federal and state programs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm hoping there's a greater appreciation or direct relationships with people who feed you, from restaurant owners to farmers to artisans folks to your grocer. People are asking themselves, \"If our industrial food system fails, what can I get locally to help me meet this need?\" [The answer] is built on relationships.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of our local restaurants, farmers markets and grocers have rather been extremely adaptive. That’s really powerful and I hope they're able to sustain that model and so we'd have more community, neighborhood-based feeding models. Even from aunty who lives in one housing development making plates for everybody and delivering it door to door with plates wrapped in aluminum foil. That needs to be maintained. The industry itself is stepping up and being adaptive, but there's individual people who have stepped up to feed their neighborhood, and often for free.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou: \u003c/strong>The majority of the work we've been doing with [Bay Area Hospitality Coalition] is to help the community and our fellow industry people. But at the same time, it's been good for us because we are talking to each other. It's a therapeutic session every day where we cry one day, we yell one day, we laugh one day. We're supportive of each other and it's been really wonderful. I've never been closer to my chef or hospitality community as much as I am right now. One of the ideas that I had was to ask the federal or state government to compensate us if we're mandated to open at half capacity. To compensate the other half so that we are able to pay people what we're supposed to pay them. We are able to pay our rents without being harassed. We are able to pay our purveyors, our farmers without asking them to wait 30 days or 60 days before they get a check.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137273\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137273\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Restaurant Opportunity Center's Maria Moreno is working towards safety nets for undocumented workers in the restaurant industry. \" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Restaurant Opportunity Center's Maria Moreno insists service work in the restaurant industry be treated as a career. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Maria Moreno)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria Moreno: \u003c/strong>Right now we're working on a “right to return” policy to ensure that workers who were already hired by restaurants all over the Bay Area actually have a place to come back to. And not just in restaurants, but all kinds of jobs. The policy requires [businesses] to rehire laid-off workers before hiring other people. If they only need 50% of the staff that they had before, that's okay. They just have to bring back laid-off workers who have worked there the longest and in qualifications that they need until they have as many workers as they need. It's not asking businesses to take on more than they can handle.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Personal and Corporate Accountability\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Jocelyn Jackson, co-founder of People’s Kitchen Collective:\u003c/strong> People want to say “You have my thoughts and prayers,” or there's the feeling of wanting to do the hero worship [of] the folks that are on the frontline. I appreciate the intention of that, but what doesn't happen at that celebration of their sacrifice is acknowledging that the people deeply impacted by these capitalists or profit-driven decisions are being put in harm's way. It doesn't matter if we call them heroes if they can't also be supported in their humanity. And that means having the pay that respects the value of who they are, the safety equipment that they need, the healthcare that they need, the housing. To have the visibility that's required for our economy to totally, absolutely shift forevermore away from something that invisibilizes and dehumanizes them. Folks that are getting the support like the medical community, they deserve it, absolutely they do—but are food workers getting that same support? Are they getting the offers of free meals for a year? Are they being offered hotel rooms so they can quarantine so they don't put their families at risk? No, because the disposable nature of the food community is so entrenched in the habits of this industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote citation='Jocelyn Jackson']' It doesn't matter if we call them heroes if they can't also be supported in their humanity.'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Accountability is often achieved through watchdog groups—people taking the initiative and the personal responsibility to hold corporations accountable for their actions. There needs to be a new wave of that in the activist world. It's not simply mutual aid. It's not just the activism of protest. It's not an easy task. [But] it's essential because we're using this phrase “essential workers,” and it feels like a misnomer because of the treatment that they're experiencing. The essential quality is their humanity and for that to be lifted up and for that to be amplified is one of the biggest parts of re-shaping the food community so that it is supportive of everyone at every level and not filled with the dynamics of disposability.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137274\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137274\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">People's Kitchen Collective founders Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson have spent the past 10 years imagining and working towards more equitable food systems. \u003ccite>(Sana Javeri Kadri)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik, co-founder, People’s Kitchen Collective: \u003c/strong>We don't want this to return to the way things were, and it can’t. [People’s Kitchen Collective] is always in a state of change, but I think that in times of crisis, we are more ourselves and the problems bubble up in neon in a way that they demand more of our attention. As we make decisions about how it is that we feed ourselves and each other, one of the biggest challenges for me in this pandemic is the ways we are used to supporting our community could also be harmful in terms of gathering in large numbers. We're planning for future events including Life is Living and looking to distribute food instead of gathering together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have both hope and disillusionment around [the future]. I do think that this moment is about the alienation of labor laid bare and what that means for restoring our whole selves as people. [I] think about this question that a former student of mine, Marianna Martinez, asked me: “What are our jobs outside of capitalism?” What are we really meant to be doing? Are we meant to be caring for an elder in our family? Are we meant to be a writer? Are we meant to help people start gardens? How can more of our lives be taken up with the activities where we are the brightest? I would ask that if you are a person who is waiting for things to go back to normal, to think about all of the people for whom that is not true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's about asking those questions and they're difficult to reckon with in the face of so much real loss and real fear. It is so important to think about our collective survival in a way that truly supports, not just any one person, but how we can get there together because that's the only way we're going to get there.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Chefs and organizers respond to COVID-19 and imagine what future awaits the food industry. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621634313,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":35,"wordCount":3353},"headData":{"title":"The Bay Area Restaurant System Was Always Broken. How Do We Fix It? | KQED","description":"Chefs and organizers respond to COVID-19 and imagine what future awaits the food industry. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"137260 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=137260","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/05/19/the-bay-area-restaurant-system-was-always-broken-how-do-we-fix-it/","disqusTitle":"The Bay Area Restaurant System Was Always Broken. How Do We Fix It?","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/137260/the-bay-area-restaurant-system-was-always-broken-how-do-we-fix-it","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Before the COVID-19 pandemic, the Bay Area \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">food\u003c/span> industry was in a quiet but persistent crisis. The majority of \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">restaurant\u003c/span> workers earned far below a living wage for the region, even for jobs with tips factored in. Steadily rising residential and commercial rents meant that \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">restaurant\u003c/span> owners swallowed slim margins as an industry standard that would outlive their ambitions. Farmworkers across the state toiled from dusk until dawn with no employer or government safety nets to count on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then the pandemic hit and “everything changed,” said Mourad Lahlou, the chef and owner of Mourad and Aziza in San Francisco. “It shattered what was solid, and it exposed what was weak.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From farms to restaurants and workers, there’s a lot of uncertainty that hangs over food systems and its fragile infrastructure. Amidst the crisis, is there potential to rebuild a more equitable food industry? What solutions could address the flaws that predate the pandemic? These are the questions we asked seven Bay Area food figures who are grappling with long-lived issues magnified by a new reality.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Restaurant Dilemma\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou, chef and owner of Mourad and Aziza\u003cem>: \u003c/em>\u003c/strong>The problem is not so much when we're going to be able to open our restaurants again. What's going to happen is they're going to let us open at half capacity. People are going to be freaked out about sitting around other people. We're going to start taking temperatures of people who come in. We're going to start wearing gloves and masks and have disposable menus as if we were a business that had a big margin where we can afford to do these things. Our rent is going to be the same. The insurance companies are going to charge the same premiums. Minimum wage is still the same. It's incomprehensible to even think that anybody is going to survive this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If we don't really address these issues now in a very forceful way, I truly believe that the impact of this is going to last way beyond the vaccine or the eradication of this pandemic. That's what keeps me up at night. It’s so scary to me that only the big corporations are going to have the means and the possibility to open restaurants whenever they want, wherever they want. That desire for people to share their culture wherever they're coming from, I'm afraid that's going to go away and the diversity [of the industry] is going to be damaged.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137277\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137277\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-800x533.jpeg\" alt=\"Mourad Lahlou of Aziza and Mourad in San Francisco fears the pandemic and its aftermath will decimate diversity in dining. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-1020x680.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mourad Lahlou of Aziza and Mourad in San Francisco fears the pandemic and its aftermath will decimate diversity in dining. \u003ccite>(Jude Rywelski )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There were almost immoral conditions for people to be able to survive in cities like San Francisco where people could not even afford to live in the places they work. We, as a public and as operators, talked about it quite a bit, but we were never able to turn the corner on it. In return, we were squeezing everybody from the farmer to staff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"'For some folks reopening their doors will be a similar investment to the investment they had to make when they opened their restaurant in the first place.'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"citation":"Emiliana Puyana","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Emiliana Puyana, Program Manager, La Cocina:\u003c/strong> What we've overwhelmingly seen at La Cocina is a reduction in sales and revenue, anywhere from 80% all the way up to 100%. The food industry is incredibly difficult. It's a business with such slim profit margins where seven to 10 percent is an industry standard. Commercial real estate in this town is untenable. That piece of the puzzle has played a big role in this effort to survive the crisis. The vast majority of businesses that cannot reach some sort of full rent abatement or meaningful rent negotiations with their landlords — it will be impossible [for them] to reopen. And that's not taking into account other outstanding loans that businesses might have, rehiring so many employees and restocking your kitchens. For some folks, reopening their doors will be a similar investment to the investment they had to make when they opened their restaurant in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a really difficult time, a time that puts a lot of people's livelihoods at risk. Not just the restaurant owners, but everybody that's employed within this industry. But it also allows this industry a chance to reassess and build a system that takes more factors into account. Not all restaurants are built the same. What a small mom-and-pop shop in the Mission needs might look very different than what a small mom-and-pop shop in [San Francisco's] Chinatown needs. It's not until we start really working together with the support of folks who can bring about change and fight on our behalf that we'll see the outcome we need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137278\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137278\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-800x568.png\" alt=\"Incubator La Cocina's is offering multi-meal food boxes to offset the severe fall in revenue its businesses have experienced.\" width=\"800\" height=\"568\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-800x568.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-160x114.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-768x545.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-1020x724.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung.png 1491w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Incubator La Cocina offers food boxes from its businesses to offset their revenue losses. \u003ccite>(Gene X Hwang / Orange Photography )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We are very fortunate to not have a \u003ca href=\"https://time.com/5404475/history-tipping-american-restaurants-civil-war/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">tipped minimum wage\u003c/a> here in the state of California. But at the same time, the vast majority of our employees in the food industry are not [getting] a living wage [and] restaurant owners are unable to bear any more weight on that front. I don't know what the answer is there, but it seems like we need to ensure that we have affordable housing and more of it so that we can keep folks wanting to work in this industry in our area, which was already a huge problem before this crisis hit. Will there be anybody willing to work for $15 an hour or $16 an hour, when they're going to need to be on a crowded train coming into cities to work from wherever they live in order to be able to afford housing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria Moreno, Community Organizer, Restaurant Opportunities Center\u003c/strong>: I feel really privileged and honored to be doing this work during this time. I feel like now more than ever an organization like ours has proved to be essential for workers. [We’re] getting funds out to people, answering people's critical questions [so they can] receive benefits for those who have benefits, advocating for those who don't receive any benefits, and uplifting the voice of workers from all sectors and from all socioeconomic backgrounds. It has felt really purposeful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"'This industry is so fragile and there's so many people that depend on it. Why continue to pretend that it's not a professional career?'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"citation":"Maria Moreno","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This industry is so fragile and there's so many people that depend on it. Why continue to pretend that it's not a professional career? It is for so many. So why don't we treat it like that? I want an industry where we're considered a real professional career. We can send that message by providing paid sick time for everyone, [by] providing health benefits, by providing ways for people to save their money in the same way that other companies allow you to [make] investments.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Inequities that Predate the Pandemic\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shakirah Simley, Director of San Francisco's Office of Racial Equity: \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was a disaster before the pandemic. Public health emergencies exploit existing systemic inequalities across the board. Prior to the pandemic, one in four San Franciscans, that's over 200,000 people, were experiencing food insecurity. And now, [that] number has likely skyrocketed. We have existing food insecurity, we have people who are laid off and becoming newly food insecure. We have the particulars of the pandemics that make it hard to access food: transportation, the need to socially distance, the need to wear face covering, limitation on store hours and the impact that COVID-19 continues up the chain for our farmers, for our producers. In the Bay Area, we are surrounded by so much wealth. For us to be tackling such a baseline need and how much it has expanded is really intense.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_136549,bayareabites_136564,bayareabites_136903","label":"The Food Industry Adapts "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't think just because we open again, it's going to go back to “normal.” This society was never normal for a lot of people. It was never normal for communities of color, for LGBTQI communities, for folks who are undocumented.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vincent Medina, co-founder, Cafe Ohlone:\u003c/strong> We come from this community that's had disease imposed as a weapon and weaponized against our people in the past. When we shut down [Cafe Ohlone], we knew that we had to turn that moment into focused work for our community: making sure that our elders [had] enough food, that our grandparents had what they needed; that people knew to prepare before grocery stores would be entirely swarmed; that we were able to find ways to provide culture to our community, even if it meant digitally; finding ways to share language, [and] spend this extent of time really searching through those old archives about ways that our community has historically responded to epidemics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137275\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137275\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-800x484.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"484\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-800x484.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-160x97.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-768x464.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-1020x617.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone.png 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino have convened with Cafe Ohlone staff digitally while focusing their attention towards caring for elders in their community. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cafe Ohlone)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Our Tribe, the Muwekma Ohlone Tribe, was historically recognized by the American government, called the Verona Band Alameda County and based on the Pleasanton Rancheria, which was the sovereign piece of Indian land in Pleasanton. That's where my great grandmother was born. As a result of UC Berkeley in 1925 erroneously writing that our people were extinct, in 1927 an agent from the Bureau of Indian affairs struck our Tribe off the list of recognized tribes. Ever since then, our Tribe has been working to have that federal recognition restored. What this means [is] that we don't have a protected land base where we could be able to live together as a community. Nowadays, what we do is we negotiate relationships with park districts. We negotiated gathering permits with certain East Bay regional parks [and] we've been able to gather our foods there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Louis Trevino, co-founder, Cafe Ohlone: \u003c/strong>The East Bay Park District and the Hayward Area Recreation District and other park districts in the area deciding to close trails and parks [where it is] difficult to social distance is a responsible thing to do, but it is also a way that the park districts are exercising the ability to lock the gates. [Doing so] excludes the most local indigenous people, Vincent's family here in the East Bay, the Muwekma Ohlone Tribe, from being able to go out into their ancestral places. It sheds light on the fact that even though today we have been able to negotiate leverage positive relationships with the East Bay park park district, that relationship still exists within a colonial framework.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"'In this time of a slowdown, we can really dream and imagine.'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"citation":"Vincent Medina","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vincent Medina: \u003c/strong>We want to make sure that we're continuing to do what we do, where we gather our foods with prayer and gratitude. We feed our community and we teach the public. But we also know that whatever we're going to do into the future, it's going to have to move slowly, carefully and cautiously. And Cafe Ohlone, it’s not going to look exactly like what it did before the shutdown where the cafe was so full that we would have to turn some people away for that time and invite them back. One of the potential outcomes of all of this could be this beautiful transformative time where a lot of those flaws that are having light shed on them can be corrected and fixed. In this time of a slowdown, we can really dream and imagine right now as we're, as we're all stuck inside. We know that our wisdom as Ohlone people and the wisdom that our elders carry and teach is more needed right now than ever. It has the ability to teach us that there's a better way forward that can transform the faltering society that we're living in, into something that's much more meaningful and richer.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Finding Solutions and Leveraging Momentum\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shakirah Simley: \u003c/strong>Sometimes what you see within pandemics is that you can be more flexible and creative in thinking about recovery. Advocates have been working for half a decade to get people to be able to buy groceries online with food stamps, and it happened in a snap. I'm hoping [we keep] the flexibility and adaptability of some of these federal and state programs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm hoping there's a greater appreciation or direct relationships with people who feed you, from restaurant owners to farmers to artisans folks to your grocer. People are asking themselves, \"If our industrial food system fails, what can I get locally to help me meet this need?\" [The answer] is built on relationships.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of our local restaurants, farmers markets and grocers have rather been extremely adaptive. That’s really powerful and I hope they're able to sustain that model and so we'd have more community, neighborhood-based feeding models. Even from aunty who lives in one housing development making plates for everybody and delivering it door to door with plates wrapped in aluminum foil. That needs to be maintained. The industry itself is stepping up and being adaptive, but there's individual people who have stepped up to feed their neighborhood, and often for free.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou: \u003c/strong>The majority of the work we've been doing with [Bay Area Hospitality Coalition] is to help the community and our fellow industry people. But at the same time, it's been good for us because we are talking to each other. It's a therapeutic session every day where we cry one day, we yell one day, we laugh one day. We're supportive of each other and it's been really wonderful. I've never been closer to my chef or hospitality community as much as I am right now. One of the ideas that I had was to ask the federal or state government to compensate us if we're mandated to open at half capacity. To compensate the other half so that we are able to pay people what we're supposed to pay them. We are able to pay our rents without being harassed. We are able to pay our purveyors, our farmers without asking them to wait 30 days or 60 days before they get a check.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137273\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137273\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Restaurant Opportunity Center's Maria Moreno is working towards safety nets for undocumented workers in the restaurant industry. \" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Restaurant Opportunity Center's Maria Moreno insists service work in the restaurant industry be treated as a career. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Maria Moreno)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria Moreno: \u003c/strong>Right now we're working on a “right to return” policy to ensure that workers who were already hired by restaurants all over the Bay Area actually have a place to come back to. And not just in restaurants, but all kinds of jobs. The policy requires [businesses] to rehire laid-off workers before hiring other people. If they only need 50% of the staff that they had before, that's okay. They just have to bring back laid-off workers who have worked there the longest and in qualifications that they need until they have as many workers as they need. It's not asking businesses to take on more than they can handle.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Personal and Corporate Accountability\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Jocelyn Jackson, co-founder of People’s Kitchen Collective:\u003c/strong> People want to say “You have my thoughts and prayers,” or there's the feeling of wanting to do the hero worship [of] the folks that are on the frontline. I appreciate the intention of that, but what doesn't happen at that celebration of their sacrifice is acknowledging that the people deeply impacted by these capitalists or profit-driven decisions are being put in harm's way. It doesn't matter if we call them heroes if they can't also be supported in their humanity. And that means having the pay that respects the value of who they are, the safety equipment that they need, the healthcare that they need, the housing. To have the visibility that's required for our economy to totally, absolutely shift forevermore away from something that invisibilizes and dehumanizes them. Folks that are getting the support like the medical community, they deserve it, absolutely they do—but are food workers getting that same support? Are they getting the offers of free meals for a year? Are they being offered hotel rooms so they can quarantine so they don't put their families at risk? No, because the disposable nature of the food community is so entrenched in the habits of this industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"' It doesn't matter if we call them heroes if they can't also be supported in their humanity.'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"citation":"Jocelyn Jackson","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Accountability is often achieved through watchdog groups—people taking the initiative and the personal responsibility to hold corporations accountable for their actions. There needs to be a new wave of that in the activist world. It's not simply mutual aid. It's not just the activism of protest. It's not an easy task. [But] it's essential because we're using this phrase “essential workers,” and it feels like a misnomer because of the treatment that they're experiencing. The essential quality is their humanity and for that to be lifted up and for that to be amplified is one of the biggest parts of re-shaping the food community so that it is supportive of everyone at every level and not filled with the dynamics of disposability.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137274\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137274\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">People's Kitchen Collective founders Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson have spent the past 10 years imagining and working towards more equitable food systems. \u003ccite>(Sana Javeri Kadri)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik, co-founder, People’s Kitchen Collective: \u003c/strong>We don't want this to return to the way things were, and it can’t. [People’s Kitchen Collective] is always in a state of change, but I think that in times of crisis, we are more ourselves and the problems bubble up in neon in a way that they demand more of our attention. As we make decisions about how it is that we feed ourselves and each other, one of the biggest challenges for me in this pandemic is the ways we are used to supporting our community could also be harmful in terms of gathering in large numbers. We're planning for future events including Life is Living and looking to distribute food instead of gathering together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have both hope and disillusionment around [the future]. I do think that this moment is about the alienation of labor laid bare and what that means for restoring our whole selves as people. [I] think about this question that a former student of mine, Marianna Martinez, asked me: “What are our jobs outside of capitalism?” What are we really meant to be doing? Are we meant to be caring for an elder in our family? Are we meant to be a writer? Are we meant to help people start gardens? How can more of our lives be taken up with the activities where we are the brightest? I would ask that if you are a person who is waiting for things to go back to normal, to think about all of the people for whom that is not true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's about asking those questions and they're difficult to reckon with in the face of so much real loss and real fear. It is so important to think about our collective survival in a way that truly supports, not just any one person, but how we can get there together because that's the only way we're going to get there.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/137260/the-bay-area-restaurant-system-was-always-broken-how-do-we-fix-it","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_17082","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_595","bayareabites_16607","bayareabites_16575","bayareabites_16557","bayareabites_16603","bayareabites_16604","bayareabites_295","bayareabites_16605","bayareabites_8790","bayareabites_289","bayareabites_16602","bayareabites_15822","bayareabites_16606","bayareabites_16608","bayareabites_8577"],"featImg":"bayareabites_137282","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_135400":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_135400","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"135400","score":null,"sort":[1573250742000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"first-taste-reopened-aziza-dishes-moroccan-spiced-happiness-in-outer-richmond","title":"First Taste: Reopened Aziza Dishes Moroccan-Spiced Happiness in Outer Richmond","publishDate":1573250742,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ci>By Sarah Chorey\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Closures of beloved restaurants have become a way of life here in the practically-impossible-to-do-business Bay Area — we miss the likes of Jardinière and Commonwealth, and will soon say so long to Oakland's iconic Flora.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_35066,bayareabites_50181' label='More About Mourad Lahlou on KQED']\u003cbr>\nOnce they're gone, it's rare for a restaurant to re-open. But now, at a time when we could all use a bit of nice news and something comforting to eat, one of San Francisco's old favorite restaurants is back for seconds; and tbh, we couldn't be happier about it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reopening of \u003ca href=\"http://azizasf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a> — Mourad Lahlou's Michelin-starred Moroccan restaurant in the Outer Richmond, first opened in 2001 — is the happy result of a seriously epic delay. In May of 2016, Lahlou closed the restaurant for renovations; the process, which was estimated to take two months, dragged on for more than a year thanks to the city requirements that kept piling on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135404\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1959px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-interior-palms.png\" alt=\"At Aziza 2.0, the best seats in the house can be found beneath the palms.\" width=\"1959\" height=\"1302\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135404\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-interior-palms.png 1959w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-interior-palms-160x106.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-interior-palms-800x532.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-interior-palms-768x510.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-interior-palms-1020x678.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-interior-palms-1200x798.png 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1959px) 100vw, 1959px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Aziza 2.0, the best seats in the house can be found beneath the palms. \u003ccite>(Sarah Chorey/7x7)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Eventually, the chef got restless and envisioned an all new project. Aziza, he decided, would make way for a Mexican-meets-Moroccan concept called Amara, which would blend the cuisines of his Moroccan heritage with the Mexican background of Aziza's then-chef de cuisine, Louis Maldonado. Another year passed without the new restaurant's unveiling, and Maldonado departed to take the toque at Gibson. \u003ca href=\"https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/california/article/dining-out/mourad-lahlou-amara-san-francisco-preview\">Amara's much anticipated opening\u003c/a> would never be. And then came the surprise twist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, if you find yourself standing once more at the corner of Geary Boulevard and 22nd Avenue, you can open the heavy wood door, cross the tiled threshold, and find yourself again in the small Moroccan-style oasis that feels like it has always been meant to be Aziza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135407\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-roasted-prawns.png\" alt=\"Roasted prawns are plump and juicy, packed with a bit of heat thanks to harissa and red charmoula spices.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1272\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135407\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-roasted-prawns.png 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-roasted-prawns-160x106.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-roasted-prawns-800x530.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-roasted-prawns-768x509.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-roasted-prawns-1020x676.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-roasted-prawns-1200x795.png 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted prawns are plump and juicy, packed with a bit of heat thanks to harissa and red charmoula spices. \u003ccite>(Sarah Chorey/7x7)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The refreshed interior is \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/azizasf/\">Instagram\u003c/a>-ready. Architectural designer Kristen Mayberry Simmons spearheaded the relocation of the bar to the back of the space, creating a glowy cocktailing haven that feels like an occasion; as well as the addition of more windows for better light.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Interior designer \u003ca href=\"http://www.lucybrowninteriors.com/\">Lucy Brown McCormick\u003c/a> added some saucy touches: splashy aquamarine tiles and coved-beam ceilings. In the front dining room, casual design and subtle desert vibes reign via glowing Venetian-plastered walls, wicker lanterns, and natural leather hides on modern minimalist chairs. But it is past the bar that you'll find your photo op: a third, more intimate space dressed in tropical palm wallpaper and tufted booths. Is this real life? At Aziza, it is.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135406\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1080px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Aziza-beef-cheek-tagine.jpg\" alt=\"The beef cheek tagine will arrive in the traditional clay pot; when the lid comes off, breathe in the aroma of a steaming hearty stew with tender chunks of meat, rice puffs, almonds, apricots, and spiced root vegetable jam.\" width=\"1080\" height=\"720\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135406\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Aziza-beef-cheek-tagine.jpg 1080w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Aziza-beef-cheek-tagine-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Aziza-beef-cheek-tagine-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Aziza-beef-cheek-tagine-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Aziza-beef-cheek-tagine-1020x680.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The beef cheek tagine will arrive in the traditional clay pot; when the lid comes off, breathe in the aroma of a steaming hearty stew with tender chunks of meat, rice puffs, almonds, apricots, and spiced root vegetable jam. \u003ccite>(Sarah Chorey/7x7)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In whichever room you pull up a chair, the menu offering will be the same: a mix of Aziza classics with a few fresh twists. Regulars to the old place won't hesitate in diving back into the flaky chicken basteeya laced with crumbled almonds, or the hearty beef cheek tagine for a cozy comfort food moment. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oysters are also on offer, as are dips and spreads, juicy kefta meatballs, and a hefty lamb shank, all of it thoughtfully incorporating spice and highlighting Moroccan cooking techniques with Californian ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135408\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-kefta-meatballs.png\" alt=\"A skewer of five tender kefta meatballs, on a pool of cilantro vinaigrette, is served with a chilled salad of shaved jicama and halved grapes for a refreshing contrast.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135408\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-kefta-meatballs.png 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-kefta-meatballs-160x107.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-kefta-meatballs-800x534.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-kefta-meatballs-768x512.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-kefta-meatballs-1020x681.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-kefta-meatballs-1200x801.png 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A skewer of five tender kefta meatballs, on a pool of cilantro vinaigrette, is served with a chilled salad of shaved jicama and halved grapes for a refreshing contrast. \u003ccite>(Sarah Chorey/7x7)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Back in the day, Aziza was the first Moroccan restaurant in the U.S. to earn a Michelin star; and Lahlou's eponymous restaurant, \u003ca href=\"https://mouradsf.com/\">Mourad\u003c/a>, holds it own in terms of wattage. So will Aziza reclaim its celestial status? We think the future is bright.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.7x7.com/first-taste-moroccan-restaurant-aziza-sf-2641127822.html\">7x7 Bay Area\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"It's rare for a restaurant to re-open, but one of San Francisco's favorite restaurants is back for seconds.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1573250742,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":13,"wordCount":682},"headData":{"title":"First Taste: Reopened Aziza Dishes Moroccan-Spiced Happiness in Outer Richmond | KQED","description":"It's rare for a restaurant to re-open, but one of San Francisco's favorite restaurants is back for seconds.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"135400 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=135400","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/11/08/first-taste-reopened-aziza-dishes-moroccan-spiced-happiness-in-outer-richmond/","disqusTitle":"First Taste: Reopened Aziza Dishes Moroccan-Spiced Happiness in Outer Richmond","path":"/bayareabites/135400/first-taste-reopened-aziza-dishes-moroccan-spiced-happiness-in-outer-richmond","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ci>By Sarah Chorey\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Closures of beloved restaurants have become a way of life here in the practically-impossible-to-do-business Bay Area — we miss the likes of Jardinière and Commonwealth, and will soon say so long to Oakland's iconic Flora.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_35066,bayareabites_50181","label":"More About Mourad Lahlou on KQED "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nOnce they're gone, it's rare for a restaurant to re-open. But now, at a time when we could all use a bit of nice news and something comforting to eat, one of San Francisco's old favorite restaurants is back for seconds; and tbh, we couldn't be happier about it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reopening of \u003ca href=\"http://azizasf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a> — Mourad Lahlou's Michelin-starred Moroccan restaurant in the Outer Richmond, first opened in 2001 — is the happy result of a seriously epic delay. In May of 2016, Lahlou closed the restaurant for renovations; the process, which was estimated to take two months, dragged on for more than a year thanks to the city requirements that kept piling on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135404\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1959px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-interior-palms.png\" alt=\"At Aziza 2.0, the best seats in the house can be found beneath the palms.\" width=\"1959\" height=\"1302\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135404\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-interior-palms.png 1959w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-interior-palms-160x106.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-interior-palms-800x532.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-interior-palms-768x510.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-interior-palms-1020x678.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-interior-palms-1200x798.png 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1959px) 100vw, 1959px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At Aziza 2.0, the best seats in the house can be found beneath the palms. \u003ccite>(Sarah Chorey/7x7)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Eventually, the chef got restless and envisioned an all new project. Aziza, he decided, would make way for a Mexican-meets-Moroccan concept called Amara, which would blend the cuisines of his Moroccan heritage with the Mexican background of Aziza's then-chef de cuisine, Louis Maldonado. Another year passed without the new restaurant's unveiling, and Maldonado departed to take the toque at Gibson. \u003ca href=\"https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/california/article/dining-out/mourad-lahlou-amara-san-francisco-preview\">Amara's much anticipated opening\u003c/a> would never be. And then came the surprise twist.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, if you find yourself standing once more at the corner of Geary Boulevard and 22nd Avenue, you can open the heavy wood door, cross the tiled threshold, and find yourself again in the small Moroccan-style oasis that feels like it has always been meant to be Aziza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135407\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-roasted-prawns.png\" alt=\"Roasted prawns are plump and juicy, packed with a bit of heat thanks to harissa and red charmoula spices.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1272\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135407\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-roasted-prawns.png 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-roasted-prawns-160x106.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-roasted-prawns-800x530.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-roasted-prawns-768x509.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-roasted-prawns-1020x676.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-roasted-prawns-1200x795.png 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted prawns are plump and juicy, packed with a bit of heat thanks to harissa and red charmoula spices. \u003ccite>(Sarah Chorey/7x7)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The refreshed interior is \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/azizasf/\">Instagram\u003c/a>-ready. Architectural designer Kristen Mayberry Simmons spearheaded the relocation of the bar to the back of the space, creating a glowy cocktailing haven that feels like an occasion; as well as the addition of more windows for better light.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Interior designer \u003ca href=\"http://www.lucybrowninteriors.com/\">Lucy Brown McCormick\u003c/a> added some saucy touches: splashy aquamarine tiles and coved-beam ceilings. In the front dining room, casual design and subtle desert vibes reign via glowing Venetian-plastered walls, wicker lanterns, and natural leather hides on modern minimalist chairs. But it is past the bar that you'll find your photo op: a third, more intimate space dressed in tropical palm wallpaper and tufted booths. Is this real life? At Aziza, it is.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135406\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1080px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Aziza-beef-cheek-tagine.jpg\" alt=\"The beef cheek tagine will arrive in the traditional clay pot; when the lid comes off, breathe in the aroma of a steaming hearty stew with tender chunks of meat, rice puffs, almonds, apricots, and spiced root vegetable jam.\" width=\"1080\" height=\"720\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135406\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Aziza-beef-cheek-tagine.jpg 1080w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Aziza-beef-cheek-tagine-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Aziza-beef-cheek-tagine-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Aziza-beef-cheek-tagine-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/Aziza-beef-cheek-tagine-1020x680.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The beef cheek tagine will arrive in the traditional clay pot; when the lid comes off, breathe in the aroma of a steaming hearty stew with tender chunks of meat, rice puffs, almonds, apricots, and spiced root vegetable jam. \u003ccite>(Sarah Chorey/7x7)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In whichever room you pull up a chair, the menu offering will be the same: a mix of Aziza classics with a few fresh twists. Regulars to the old place won't hesitate in diving back into the flaky chicken basteeya laced with crumbled almonds, or the hearty beef cheek tagine for a cozy comfort food moment. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oysters are also on offer, as are dips and spreads, juicy kefta meatballs, and a hefty lamb shank, all of it thoughtfully incorporating spice and highlighting Moroccan cooking techniques with Californian ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135408\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-kefta-meatballs.png\" alt=\"A skewer of five tender kefta meatballs, on a pool of cilantro vinaigrette, is served with a chilled salad of shaved jicama and halved grapes for a refreshing contrast.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1281\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135408\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-kefta-meatballs.png 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-kefta-meatballs-160x107.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-kefta-meatballs-800x534.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-kefta-meatballs-768x512.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-kefta-meatballs-1020x681.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/aziza-kefta-meatballs-1200x801.png 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A skewer of five tender kefta meatballs, on a pool of cilantro vinaigrette, is served with a chilled salad of shaved jicama and halved grapes for a refreshing contrast. \u003ccite>(Sarah Chorey/7x7)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Back in the day, Aziza was the first Moroccan restaurant in the U.S. to earn a Michelin star; and Lahlou's eponymous restaurant, \u003ca href=\"https://mouradsf.com/\">Mourad\u003c/a>, holds it own in terms of wattage. So will Aziza reclaim its celestial status? We think the future is bright.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.7x7.com/first-taste-moroccan-restaurant-aziza-sf-2641127822.html\">7x7 Bay Area\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/135400/first-taste-reopened-aziza-dishes-moroccan-spiced-happiness-in-outer-richmond","authors":["11590"],"categories":["bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_3328","bayareabites_595","bayareabites_16491"],"featImg":"bayareabites_135403","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_50181":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_50181","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"50181","score":null,"sort":[1350935534000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"qa-with-mourad-lahlou-chef-and-culinary-diplomat","title":"Q&A with Mourad Lahlou, Chef and Culinary Diplomat","publishDate":1350935534,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560BAB_Mourad-Lahlou-Deborah-Jones-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560BAB_Mourad-Lahlou-Deborah-Jones-2.jpg\" alt=\"Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\" title=\"Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50274\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Self-taught chef and restaurateur Mourad Lahlou is the one name repeatedly whispered at industry events as someone who is innovative and daring. Lahlou’s first cookbook “\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Mourad-New-Moroccan-Lahlou/dp/1579654290\">Mourad: New Moroccan\u003c/a>” came out last year and the recipes reveal his personal interpretation of his native Moroccan cuisine. Eating at his Michelin starred restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a> remains a popular “must-do” for many, and Lahlou was recently appointed a culinary ambassador by Secretary of State \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodpolitics.com/wp-content/uploads/Diplomatic-Culinary-Partnership-Initiative-One-Pager.pdf\">Hillary Clinton\u003c/a>. Lahlou is also gearing up to open a new restaurant in downtown San Francisco, which Lahlou has said will be different than Aziza. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites caught up with Lahlou via a telephone and an email interview recently. His comments have been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you become a culinary ambassador? How will it change your schedule?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> Hillary Clinton decided to start this new initiative called culinary diplomacy, using food as soft diplomacy. When dignitaries come to the United States from North Africa, I will cook for them. The main task, though is for me to travel and talk about how we care about the world, and care about the environment...that covers what we eat, what we produce and our children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine if you have a Japanese dignitary coming to the U.S. who has food made by an American with strong links to Japan. It will show them we care and that they are cared for, and I think that’s really important. This whole thing is labeled soft diplomacy. There’s also hard diplomacy, which is the typical way of doing diplomacy. I’m really surprised that it’s taken this long for this initiative to happen. Food is the one thing that we all put into our own body to achieve many purposes: to survive, to be entertained. By cooking, you’re sustaining someone’s life. It’s a very powerful but overlooked way of achieving diplomacy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I will travel to New York and Washington, D.C., as well as abroad. Every time I go abroad, I have to go to the embassies and consulates. I also will do conferences, events and connect with people on the internet. It’s not just a title, and you don’t just show up for an event. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dignitaries are coming to the United States on a daily basis. You’ll get advanced notice three days ahead, a week, three months -- of course, all the chefs are all stoked and really want to make sure it’s a success. It needs to be nurtured and taken care of. We would like other chefs to be invited to participate in this initiative so it grows. So the chefs are a very important part of this process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you passionate about food-wise these days?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> I’ve really been obsessing and having a hard time with reduced sauces. You know when you eat a dish that’s really sticky and it’s been strained 20 times? It’s delicious and the flavor is deep and profound but it lacquers your tongue. You have to power wash to get it off. It’s so ugly. I’m experimenting with figuring out the components in the sauce so that I can reduce it without it getting sticky, so that it stays runny. If I can figure out how to break the molecules, then I will have a brothy sauce that is also reduced, flavorful and amazing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have favorite food/drink spots in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy favorite spot to slurp a bowl of noodles is \u003ca href=\"http://turtletowersf.com/\">Turtle Tower\u003c/a>. They have the best pho ga long in town. It’s a great chicken noodle soup with giblets, which is the bomb on a cold, foggy San Francisco summer day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd drive across town in rush hour traffic to eat at \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.saisonsf.com/splash.html\">Saison\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.spqrsf.com/\">SPQR\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://outerlandssf.com/\">Outerlands\u003c/a>. I would actually walk across town in a rainy day to eat at any of these places. Did i mention that I would walk uphill both ways??\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing says San Francisco on a plate more than the Crab Louie served at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/swan-oyster-depot-san-francisco\">Swan Oyster Depot\u003c/a>, which epitomizes San Francisco in every bite. It’s simple, delicious and crazy fresh seafood and the place to take any out-of-towner and watch them lick their fingers because they can't understand why the food is so deceptively tasty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My go-to place on my night off is at home. I’d order whatever i feel like. It works every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For sushi, \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/ino-sushi-san-francisco\">Ino Sushi\u003c/a> has out-of-this-world sushi by Chef Ino who gets to do whatever the f*ck he wants to. It's better that way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best tacos are from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/el-gallo-giro-taco-truck-san-francisco\">El Gallo Giro\u003c/a> on 23rd street and Treat Avenue. They sell these out of a truck but they have the best tacos in town and they are ideal for eating while paying attention to something more serious than just food for a change. They are much tastier than pizza and they don't get stale as quickly. Try their roast chicken, which are so tasty that they make you not miss pork at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For my best late night hangout, if it's before 1am, I would choose \u003ca href=\"http://nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a>. I love their burger and roast chicken. You can't beat it at that hour of the night, morning or whatever it's called. If we're talking after 1am, then it's \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/my-canh-san-francisco\">My Canh\u003c/a> on Broadway, for cheap, tasty grub made when most decent cooks in the city are too tired and drowning in their beer or cocktails; this is San Francisco after all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.joycegoldstein.com/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a> is an amazing human being. She’s known me 16 or 17 years. She’s a great friend and is so honest to a fault. She’ll tell you something to your face and I love that. She cares even on a more profound level. We’ve been friends and close for so many years. She respects and loves what I do and always tells me her opinion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the pros and cons of building a restaurant business?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou: \u003c/strong>The pros are the community. You’re dealing with people who frequent your restaurant who know and appreciate food. Where else can you see someone from another region and country and have it be a success. Look at Mission Chinese, at Bar Tartine. We are so open-minded and embracing of other cultures...That’s a huge draw for me. I feel like people allow me to experiment. They don’t stigmatize me with ethnicity. They don’t ask you to be the same. They don’t have a set of prejudices. They give you room to grow and experiment. When I first started, I was doing traditional Moroccan. I grew and people allowed me to do it differently and to grow. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The produce, farmers and community are also great. It makes it so much easier having easy access to them. We tend to take for granted that. I go to New York quite a bit but our produce puts them to shame. Take Joe’s Early Girl tomatoes, which are so amazing by themselves. They’re like a bundle of flavor that just explodes in your mouth. I think it’s wonderful to get up and go to the farmers' market and then be able to cook with the produce. One of the hardest things is to go to other places and use different tomatoes. You have to manipulate the food more to make it taste better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hardest thing about having a restaurant in the Bay Area is that no matter what, it’s a small town. You get a limited area, surrounded with water. It doesn't expand like L.A., which makes it so intimate and limited in a way, you know? Restaurants are opening all the time. The problem I have is: the quality of the cooks. There are great cooks but it’s really hard to find and hold on to great cooks. That’s one issue that has to be addressed sooner or later. It doesn’t allow for one place to have a bunch of great cooks who can elevate to the next level. The cost of living in the Bay Area is so, so high so cooks end up leaving and going somewhere else -- back to New York, Chicago or L.A. because they just can’t be there. We end up losing them. I call it the brain drain because we lose the smartest, brightest cooks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you learn to cook such great food?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> The environment was really fertile for me to grow in a culinary sense. If my family would have known I was going to be a cook, to travel 6,000 miles to cook, they would have revolted. It would not even be an acceptable option for me. I allowed myself to be exposed to different cultures. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was going to go to college in France and stay with my aunt. I had an idea that I wanted to instead go to America. My grandpa wanted to find a way to tell me “It’s not a great idea, but yeah, if you want to get a visa, just know that it’s extremely hard.” Once he said it at the table in front of everyone, I was able to give it a try. I got a five-year visa and was so excited. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone was shocked. My family had promised I could do it and within two to three weeks I was in a plane on my way to San Francisco. I was so homesick and business was hard. I couldn’t fly back to Morocco; it takes a day to fly back there. The one thing I could do to connect to them was food -- I started making things and it was terrible. I was so lost and so sad, there were so many tears and sleepless nights. Eventually I started using my memory to recreate the days and memories with all the women shopping and cooking in Morocco. I was really reliving those moments. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, in Morocco there are no recipes. I would call someone and say “how did you make that tagine?” they’d say a “pinch of this and pinch of that.” I was in college (at San Francisco State) for economics but I was learning how to preserve things, how to break down a fish and how to cook, really. Eventually by the time I was finished with college, people said, “You should open a restaurant.” I had $3,700 to my name and so I opened a restaurant. I had no idea what I had gotten myself into. Once I opened the restaurant, it was traditional food, and I started to watch people eat, and talk to people about themselves and their food preferences. I started to realize that food has to have a sense of place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food has to connect people to where there are. I can’t cook food in the same way it’s made in Morocco. Food connects people to their past. They want to taste the stew that their great grandma made. It’s not Facebook or Twitter that connects us, it’s through memories and through food. It's how we stay connected to people and the past. Here in America it’s always “What’s new?” and “What are the trends?” People are always looking into the future here. I was stuck because the way I was cooking was in the past. But the way people are here is that they look into the future, looking at the ingredients. Food here is a religion, a way of life... where is that carrot and chicken from? There’s an obsession here. I had to change the way I was thinking about food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was taking those ideas -- the foods from Marrakesh and making it in SF but it didn’t make any sense. What I’m making now is food for the Bay Area. I think that’s what’s really cool. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Mary Ladd interviews Chef Mourad Lahlou, who recently accepted a position as a culinary diplomat in a program pioneered by Secretary of State Hillary Clinton. Lahlou details his favorite dining spots as well as what the local culinary \"brain drain\" is.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1350935776,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":33,"wordCount":2128},"headData":{"title":"Q&A with Mourad Lahlou, Chef and Culinary Diplomat | KQED","description":"Mary Ladd interviews Chef Mourad Lahlou, who recently accepted a position as a culinary diplomat in a program pioneered by Secretary of State Hillary Clinton. Lahlou details his favorite dining spots as well as what the local culinary "brain drain" is.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"50181 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=50181","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/22/qa-with-mourad-lahlou-chef-and-culinary-diplomat/","disqusTitle":"Q&A with Mourad Lahlou, Chef and Culinary Diplomat","path":"/bayareabites/50181/qa-with-mourad-lahlou-chef-and-culinary-diplomat","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560BAB_Mourad-Lahlou-Deborah-Jones-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/560BAB_Mourad-Lahlou-Deborah-Jones-2.jpg\" alt=\"Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\" title=\"Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50274\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mourad Lahlou. Photo: Deborah Jones\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Self-taught chef and restaurateur Mourad Lahlou is the one name repeatedly whispered at industry events as someone who is innovative and daring. Lahlou’s first cookbook “\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Mourad-New-Moroccan-Lahlou/dp/1579654290\">Mourad: New Moroccan\u003c/a>” came out last year and the recipes reveal his personal interpretation of his native Moroccan cuisine. Eating at his Michelin starred restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a> remains a popular “must-do” for many, and Lahlou was recently appointed a culinary ambassador by Secretary of State \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodpolitics.com/wp-content/uploads/Diplomatic-Culinary-Partnership-Initiative-One-Pager.pdf\">Hillary Clinton\u003c/a>. Lahlou is also gearing up to open a new restaurant in downtown San Francisco, which Lahlou has said will be different than Aziza. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites caught up with Lahlou via a telephone and an email interview recently. His comments have been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you become a culinary ambassador? How will it change your schedule?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> Hillary Clinton decided to start this new initiative called culinary diplomacy, using food as soft diplomacy. When dignitaries come to the United States from North Africa, I will cook for them. The main task, though is for me to travel and talk about how we care about the world, and care about the environment...that covers what we eat, what we produce and our children.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Imagine if you have a Japanese dignitary coming to the U.S. who has food made by an American with strong links to Japan. It will show them we care and that they are cared for, and I think that’s really important. This whole thing is labeled soft diplomacy. There’s also hard diplomacy, which is the typical way of doing diplomacy. I’m really surprised that it’s taken this long for this initiative to happen. Food is the one thing that we all put into our own body to achieve many purposes: to survive, to be entertained. By cooking, you’re sustaining someone’s life. It’s a very powerful but overlooked way of achieving diplomacy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I will travel to New York and Washington, D.C., as well as abroad. Every time I go abroad, I have to go to the embassies and consulates. I also will do conferences, events and connect with people on the internet. It’s not just a title, and you don’t just show up for an event. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dignitaries are coming to the United States on a daily basis. You’ll get advanced notice three days ahead, a week, three months -- of course, all the chefs are all stoked and really want to make sure it’s a success. It needs to be nurtured and taken care of. We would like other chefs to be invited to participate in this initiative so it grows. So the chefs are a very important part of this process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are you passionate about food-wise these days?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> I’ve really been obsessing and having a hard time with reduced sauces. You know when you eat a dish that’s really sticky and it’s been strained 20 times? It’s delicious and the flavor is deep and profound but it lacquers your tongue. You have to power wash to get it off. It’s so ugly. I’m experimenting with figuring out the components in the sauce so that I can reduce it without it getting sticky, so that it stays runny. If I can figure out how to break the molecules, then I will have a brothy sauce that is also reduced, flavorful and amazing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Do you have favorite food/drink spots in the Bay Area?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nMy favorite spot to slurp a bowl of noodles is \u003ca href=\"http://turtletowersf.com/\">Turtle Tower\u003c/a>. They have the best pho ga long in town. It’s a great chicken noodle soup with giblets, which is the bomb on a cold, foggy San Francisco summer day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd drive across town in rush hour traffic to eat at \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.saisonsf.com/splash.html\">Saison\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.spqrsf.com/\">SPQR\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://outerlandssf.com/\">Outerlands\u003c/a>. I would actually walk across town in a rainy day to eat at any of these places. Did i mention that I would walk uphill both ways??\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nothing says San Francisco on a plate more than the Crab Louie served at \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/swan-oyster-depot-san-francisco\">Swan Oyster Depot\u003c/a>, which epitomizes San Francisco in every bite. It’s simple, delicious and crazy fresh seafood and the place to take any out-of-towner and watch them lick their fingers because they can't understand why the food is so deceptively tasty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My go-to place on my night off is at home. I’d order whatever i feel like. It works every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For sushi, \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/ino-sushi-san-francisco\">Ino Sushi\u003c/a> has out-of-this-world sushi by Chef Ino who gets to do whatever the f*ck he wants to. It's better that way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The best tacos are from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/el-gallo-giro-taco-truck-san-francisco\">El Gallo Giro\u003c/a> on 23rd street and Treat Avenue. They sell these out of a truck but they have the best tacos in town and they are ideal for eating while paying attention to something more serious than just food for a change. They are much tastier than pizza and they don't get stale as quickly. Try their roast chicken, which are so tasty that they make you not miss pork at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For my best late night hangout, if it's before 1am, I would choose \u003ca href=\"http://nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a>. I love their burger and roast chicken. You can't beat it at that hour of the night, morning or whatever it's called. If we're talking after 1am, then it's \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/my-canh-san-francisco\">My Canh\u003c/a> on Broadway, for cheap, tasty grub made when most decent cooks in the city are too tired and drowning in their beer or cocktails; this is San Francisco after all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Who are your mentors?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.joycegoldstein.com/\">Joyce Goldstein\u003c/a> is an amazing human being. She’s known me 16 or 17 years. She’s a great friend and is so honest to a fault. She’ll tell you something to your face and I love that. She cares even on a more profound level. We’ve been friends and close for so many years. She respects and loves what I do and always tells me her opinion. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the pros and cons of building a restaurant business?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou: \u003c/strong>The pros are the community. You’re dealing with people who frequent your restaurant who know and appreciate food. Where else can you see someone from another region and country and have it be a success. Look at Mission Chinese, at Bar Tartine. We are so open-minded and embracing of other cultures...That’s a huge draw for me. I feel like people allow me to experiment. They don’t stigmatize me with ethnicity. They don’t ask you to be the same. They don’t have a set of prejudices. They give you room to grow and experiment. When I first started, I was doing traditional Moroccan. I grew and people allowed me to do it differently and to grow. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The produce, farmers and community are also great. It makes it so much easier having easy access to them. We tend to take for granted that. I go to New York quite a bit but our produce puts them to shame. Take Joe’s Early Girl tomatoes, which are so amazing by themselves. They’re like a bundle of flavor that just explodes in your mouth. I think it’s wonderful to get up and go to the farmers' market and then be able to cook with the produce. One of the hardest things is to go to other places and use different tomatoes. You have to manipulate the food more to make it taste better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The hardest thing about having a restaurant in the Bay Area is that no matter what, it’s a small town. You get a limited area, surrounded with water. It doesn't expand like L.A., which makes it so intimate and limited in a way, you know? Restaurants are opening all the time. The problem I have is: the quality of the cooks. There are great cooks but it’s really hard to find and hold on to great cooks. That’s one issue that has to be addressed sooner or later. It doesn’t allow for one place to have a bunch of great cooks who can elevate to the next level. The cost of living in the Bay Area is so, so high so cooks end up leaving and going somewhere else -- back to New York, Chicago or L.A. because they just can’t be there. We end up losing them. I call it the brain drain because we lose the smartest, brightest cooks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How did you learn to cook such great food?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lahlou:\u003c/strong> The environment was really fertile for me to grow in a culinary sense. If my family would have known I was going to be a cook, to travel 6,000 miles to cook, they would have revolted. It would not even be an acceptable option for me. I allowed myself to be exposed to different cultures. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was going to go to college in France and stay with my aunt. I had an idea that I wanted to instead go to America. My grandpa wanted to find a way to tell me “It’s not a great idea, but yeah, if you want to get a visa, just know that it’s extremely hard.” Once he said it at the table in front of everyone, I was able to give it a try. I got a five-year visa and was so excited. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everyone was shocked. My family had promised I could do it and within two to three weeks I was in a plane on my way to San Francisco. I was so homesick and business was hard. I couldn’t fly back to Morocco; it takes a day to fly back there. The one thing I could do to connect to them was food -- I started making things and it was terrible. I was so lost and so sad, there were so many tears and sleepless nights. Eventually I started using my memory to recreate the days and memories with all the women shopping and cooking in Morocco. I was really reliving those moments. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, in Morocco there are no recipes. I would call someone and say “how did you make that tagine?” they’d say a “pinch of this and pinch of that.” I was in college (at San Francisco State) for economics but I was learning how to preserve things, how to break down a fish and how to cook, really. Eventually by the time I was finished with college, people said, “You should open a restaurant.” I had $3,700 to my name and so I opened a restaurant. I had no idea what I had gotten myself into. Once I opened the restaurant, it was traditional food, and I started to watch people eat, and talk to people about themselves and their food preferences. I started to realize that food has to have a sense of place. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food has to connect people to where there are. I can’t cook food in the same way it’s made in Morocco. Food connects people to their past. They want to taste the stew that their great grandma made. It’s not Facebook or Twitter that connects us, it’s through memories and through food. It's how we stay connected to people and the past. Here in America it’s always “What’s new?” and “What are the trends?” People are always looking into the future here. I was stuck because the way I was cooking was in the past. But the way people are here is that they look into the future, looking at the ingredients. Food here is a religion, a way of life... where is that carrot and chicken from? There’s an obsession here. I had to change the way I was thinking about food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was taking those ideas -- the foods from Marrakesh and making it in SF but it didn’t make any sense. What I’m making now is food for the Bay Area. I think that’s what’s really cool. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/50181/qa-with-mourad-lahlou-chef-and-culinary-diplomat","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1146","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_595","bayareabites_1556","bayareabites_8790","bayareabites_10811"],"featImg":"bayareabites_50274","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_35066":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_35066","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"35066","score":null,"sort":[1320784735000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"moroccan-cookbook-throwdown-paula-wolferts-the-food-of-morocco-vs-mourad-new-moroccan","title":"Moroccan Cookbook Throwdown: Paula Wolfert's The Food of Morocco vs. Mourad: New Moroccan","publishDate":1320784735,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/11/morocco-cookbooks.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/11/morocco-cookbooks.jpg\" alt=\"Moroccan cookbooks\" title=\"Moroccan cookbooks\" width=\"563\" height=\"358\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-35208\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If there's one cuisine that I'd love to be able to cook like a native at home, it would be Moroccan. Why? For the seductive spicing that scents the kitchen like a bazaar; the dried apricots and dates nestled up lush and luscious next to slow-cooked lamb; the crisp \u003cem>brik\u003c/em> pastries; the fiery smear of harissa; the unexpected matches of sweet and savory, even the delicate, gold-rimmed glasses poured theatrically full of hot, achingly sweet mint tea out of the held-high spout of an intricately decorated silver pot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had my first Moroccan meal—a platter of couscous piled with meat and soft-cooked vegetables, ladled over with flavorful broth and shared by everyone at the table—in a small, cozily dim neighborhood restaurant in Paris in 1983. I was a teenager, and no stranger to New York and New Jersey's various ethnic restaurants, thanks to my culinarily-adventurous parents, but the flavors of North Africa were utterly new to me. \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060913967/kqedorg-20\">Couscous and Other Good Food from Morocco\u003c/a>, which brought descriptions, at least, of tagines, couscous, preserved lemons, and ras el hanoot to American kitchens (getting authentic ingredients was something else), had been published ten years before, but author Paula Wolfert's caftan-wearing bohemian taste hadn't wafted to our corner of the East Coast yet. I had to get to France, with its large post-colonial population of North Africans, to taste scorchingly hot merguez (lamb sausage) and the pigeon pie, called \u003cem>b'steeya, \u003c/em>whose savory filling was wrapped in shatteringly crisp, sugar-dusted pastry leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, decades later, San Francisco has its own mini-neighborhood of inexpensive \u003ca href=\"http://articles.sfgate.com/2011-10-27/entertainment/30331180_1_moroccan-food-tajine-aziza\">Moroccan and Tunisian restaurants\u003c/a> along a five-block stretch of Polk Street. And then there's \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com\">Aziza\u003c/a>, the swanky destination with the unlikely Outer Richmond address, as much like these casual couscous joints as \u003ca href=\"http://www.kokkari.com\">Kokkari\u003c/a> is to a gyros shop on Telegraph Ave. Run by Mourad Lahlou, the tattooed, Moroccan-born chef who came to San Francisco in 1985 to go to college at SF State, Aziza is a contemporary restaurant first, with Moroccan roots but a menu dedicated to modern techniques rather than classic interpretations. Because, as Lahlou writes in his new book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579654290/kqedorg-20\">Mourad: New Moroccan\u003c/a>, why shouldn't Moroccan food evolve, just like California cuisine has? As he writes about his childhood memories of growing up in Marrakesh with a large extended family, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>But the thing is, I don't long for that world. I cherish it, and I cook from it every day. And so, dish by dish and year by year, my food evolves. I started at Kasbah [his first restaurant, in San Rafael] with a somewhat obsessive attitude about showing people \u003cem>real\u003c/em> Moroccan food, done the \u003cem>authentic\u003c/em> way. But there we were in California. It's just not possible. The ingredients are different—even the ones flown in from Morocco don't taste the same by the time they arrive...So, before long, I was doing the Moroccan version of what so many inventive northern California chefs have done. I adapted what I knew and loved to make it work with the beautiful ingredients I can get here, and then just followed my nose, my heart and my palate.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/11/Mourad-Lahlou-Deborah-Jones560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/11/Mourad-Lahlou-Deborah-Jones560.jpg\" alt=\"Mourad Lahlou Photo: Deborah Jones\" title=\"Mourad Lahlou Photo: Deborah Jones\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-35211\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou.\u003c/strong> Photo: Deborah Jones\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mourad's food here in the Richmond is an expression of both his own and his customers' restless taste. His book, gorgeously photographed in that lavish minimalist style familiar to readers of European and Australian food magazines, in which single items are shot in mouth-watering, brilliantly detailed close-up, surrounded by tons of expensive-looking white space, sells the not-quite-established celebrity appeal of the handsome Mourad as much as it does his food. The book is gorgeous and spot-on contemporary; if you want a chic cookbook to give your have-everything loft-dwelling pals for the holidays, this is it. (And to ensure an invitation to the cocktail party where they try out the recipes for harissa bloody marys and Berbere-cured chicken liver mousse.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But can you cook from it? For DIY obsessives, the most crucial parts are the opening chapters, which focus on the spice-driven building blocks of Mourad's cuisine. He mentions, casually, that his restaurant staff makes five different \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ras_el_hanout\">\u003cem>ras el hanout\u003c/em>\u003c/a> blends for different dishes, but putting together the one 23-ingredient version he offers should satisfy, especially if you, the home cook, follow it up with the sexy 22-ingredient \u003cem>vadouvan\u003c/em> blend, for which it helps to have a dehydrator as well a tablespoon or so of an additional 10-ingredient curry mix. There is a long, leisurely section about hand-rolling your own couscous from coarse semolina, salt, water, and flour, and an even longer one about making tissue-thin sheets of \u003cem>warqa,\u003c/em> Morocco's version of phyllo, with the up-to-date help of a little xanthan gum. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you move onto the main dishes, success, as always with chef- and restaurant-driven cookbooks, depends on your affinity and patience for long ingredient lists and multiple sub-recipes. Restaurants, as surely as any TV watcher now knows, spend all day, every day, making the many different items that come together on your plate. One guy makes the stocks. Another guy takes those stocks and turns them into sauces. Someone else chops the onions or toasts and grinds the spice mixes. Even if it looks like you're getting protein, vegetables, and sauce on a plate, do a little real analysis and you'll probably find a dozen different steps (or double that) that went into making your meal. And Mourad, 21st-century chef, likes his drips and drizzles, his frizzled herbs and sudden spice-drenched dabs of infused oils. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, you can strip out the fancy stuff, and just make the still luscious-sounding entrees and surprisingly simple but alluring salads and sides. But if you want to get the full Mourad, you're going to have to do some serious spice-shopping, and get ready to divvy up multiple tasks, probably over several days, to crank out a full menu. To make that \u003cstrong>Lamb Shank, Spiced Prunes, and Brown-Butter Farro,\u003c/strong> be prepared to brew up a Red Wine Gastrique Lamb Sauce, make the Spiced Prunes, simmer up some lamb stock, dry your shanks in the fridge overnight, and then tend to them lovingly for at least most of an afternoon, including a nearly 3-hour braising time in the oven. (And if you happen to have some Activa RM around, you can follow the \"Chef to Chef\" tips and turn the meat into a sliceable log.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_35210\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/11/Wolfert-Sara-Remington300.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/11/Wolfert-Sara-Remington300.jpg\" alt=\"Paula Wolfert. Photo: Sara Remington\" title=\"Paula Wolfert. Photo: Sara Remington\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\" class=\"size-full wp-image-35210\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Paula Wolfert.\u003c/strong> Photo: Sara Remington\u003c/em>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp> You won't find xanthan gum in Paula Wolfert's clay-pot-lined kitchen. In the nearly 4 decades since her first Moroccan cookbook came out, Wolfert, who lives in Sonoma, has become perhaps \u003cem>the\u003c/em> American expert on traditional Mediterranean cuisines. Given the Bay Area's affinity with all things olive-oiled and bay-leaved, it's rare to find a kitchen not stocked with at least one of her cookbooks around here. (Those that don't usually have a few by Joyce Goldstein instead.) Wolfert, now 71, still finds a thrill in capturing authenticity, in ferreting out obscure or lesser-known dishes or methods, often unique to a particular region or place. She's especially drawn to those that she feels are in danger of disappearing, as cooks give up (perhaps with a sigh of relief) traditional labor-intensive methods and ingredients. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back when Wolfert first started her cookbook-writing career, her books were more for armchair travelers than hands-on cooks. Finding fresh purslane, nigella seeds, or cubeb pepper was almost impossible; there was no busy-mom instant couscous on the shelves at Safeway. But slowly, book after book, Wolfert made a difference. Now, leafing through \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0061957550/kqedorg-20\">The Food of Morocco\u003c/a>, her decades-later update of that first couscous book, a Bay Area cook would be hard-pressed to find an ingredient that she couldn't source between a handful of well-stocked international-foods shops. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wolfert's book doesn't look as striking as Mourad's; the design is busier, the serifed typefaces fussy, the colors a little washed out. Still, after all these years, Wolfert still has the enthusiasm to sit down with her readers and start right at the beginning. The first 50 pages are lists, techniques, and explanations that explain all the basics and then some, from \u003cstrong>The Ten Most Frequently Used Spices\u003c/strong> (with descriptions), to her own long and enticing description of \u003cem>ras el hanout,\u003c/em> and how it can include up to a hundred ingredients, even the poisonous, irritating, supposed aphrodisiac known as \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spanish_fly\">Spanish fly\u003c/a>. There are questions and answers about how to grate a tomato, why and how to grate an onion, how to make saffron water, even how to peel chickpeas. Wolfert makes no assumptions about the sophistication or hipness of her readers; you can't imagine her labeling a chapter on couscous \"Here's How I Roll,\" as Mourad does. In the recipes, the flavors are familiar, even comforting, rife with almonds, eggplant, cumin, cilantro, turmeric, ginger, olives, lemons, and honey, but the methods just different enough from a typical California sear or grill to twist the results into something altogether different. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So which cookbook will get more spattered in my kitchen? When I'm cooking for myself, I'll trust Wolfert. Cooking to impress? I'll ask the tattooed guy over, and hope he brings a bunch of friends with sharp knives and plenty of time. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"It's Morocco vs. Moroccan on the cookbook shelves this week. Local Mediterranean-cooking expert Paula Wolfert revisits classic North African home cooking, while Mourad Lahlou, the tattooed, Moroccan-born chef of Aziza in the Outer Richmond, shares his cross-cultural restaurant inventions. Who will win your bookstore dollars? ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1320854861,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":1605},"headData":{"title":"Moroccan Cookbook Throwdown: Paula Wolfert's The Food of Morocco vs. Mourad: New Moroccan | KQED","description":"It's Morocco vs. Moroccan on the cookbook shelves this week. Local Mediterranean-cooking expert Paula Wolfert revisits classic North African home cooking, while Mourad Lahlou, the tattooed, Moroccan-born chef of Aziza in the Outer Richmond, shares his cross-cultural restaurant inventions. Who will win your bookstore dollars? ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"35066 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=35066","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/11/08/moroccan-cookbook-throwdown-paula-wolferts-the-food-of-morocco-vs-mourad-new-moroccan/","disqusTitle":"Moroccan Cookbook Throwdown: Paula Wolfert's The Food of Morocco vs. Mourad: New Moroccan","path":"/bayareabites/35066/moroccan-cookbook-throwdown-paula-wolferts-the-food-of-morocco-vs-mourad-new-moroccan","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/11/morocco-cookbooks.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/11/morocco-cookbooks.jpg\" alt=\"Moroccan cookbooks\" title=\"Moroccan cookbooks\" width=\"563\" height=\"358\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-35208\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If there's one cuisine that I'd love to be able to cook like a native at home, it would be Moroccan. Why? For the seductive spicing that scents the kitchen like a bazaar; the dried apricots and dates nestled up lush and luscious next to slow-cooked lamb; the crisp \u003cem>brik\u003c/em> pastries; the fiery smear of harissa; the unexpected matches of sweet and savory, even the delicate, gold-rimmed glasses poured theatrically full of hot, achingly sweet mint tea out of the held-high spout of an intricately decorated silver pot. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I had my first Moroccan meal—a platter of couscous piled with meat and soft-cooked vegetables, ladled over with flavorful broth and shared by everyone at the table—in a small, cozily dim neighborhood restaurant in Paris in 1983. I was a teenager, and no stranger to New York and New Jersey's various ethnic restaurants, thanks to my culinarily-adventurous parents, but the flavors of North Africa were utterly new to me. \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0060913967/kqedorg-20\">Couscous and Other Good Food from Morocco\u003c/a>, which brought descriptions, at least, of tagines, couscous, preserved lemons, and ras el hanoot to American kitchens (getting authentic ingredients was something else), had been published ten years before, but author Paula Wolfert's caftan-wearing bohemian taste hadn't wafted to our corner of the East Coast yet. I had to get to France, with its large post-colonial population of North Africans, to taste scorchingly hot merguez (lamb sausage) and the pigeon pie, called \u003cem>b'steeya, \u003c/em>whose savory filling was wrapped in shatteringly crisp, sugar-dusted pastry leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, decades later, San Francisco has its own mini-neighborhood of inexpensive \u003ca href=\"http://articles.sfgate.com/2011-10-27/entertainment/30331180_1_moroccan-food-tajine-aziza\">Moroccan and Tunisian restaurants\u003c/a> along a five-block stretch of Polk Street. And then there's \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com\">Aziza\u003c/a>, the swanky destination with the unlikely Outer Richmond address, as much like these casual couscous joints as \u003ca href=\"http://www.kokkari.com\">Kokkari\u003c/a> is to a gyros shop on Telegraph Ave. Run by Mourad Lahlou, the tattooed, Moroccan-born chef who came to San Francisco in 1985 to go to college at SF State, Aziza is a contemporary restaurant first, with Moroccan roots but a menu dedicated to modern techniques rather than classic interpretations. Because, as Lahlou writes in his new book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1579654290/kqedorg-20\">Mourad: New Moroccan\u003c/a>, why shouldn't Moroccan food evolve, just like California cuisine has? As he writes about his childhood memories of growing up in Marrakesh with a large extended family, \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>But the thing is, I don't long for that world. I cherish it, and I cook from it every day. And so, dish by dish and year by year, my food evolves. I started at Kasbah [his first restaurant, in San Rafael] with a somewhat obsessive attitude about showing people \u003cem>real\u003c/em> Moroccan food, done the \u003cem>authentic\u003c/em> way. But there we were in California. It's just not possible. The ingredients are different—even the ones flown in from Morocco don't taste the same by the time they arrive...So, before long, I was doing the Moroccan version of what so many inventive northern California chefs have done. I adapted what I knew and loved to make it work with the beautiful ingredients I can get here, and then just followed my nose, my heart and my palate.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/11/Mourad-Lahlou-Deborah-Jones560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/11/Mourad-Lahlou-Deborah-Jones560.jpg\" alt=\"Mourad Lahlou Photo: Deborah Jones\" title=\"Mourad Lahlou Photo: Deborah Jones\" width=\"560\" height=\"373\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-35211\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou.\u003c/strong> Photo: Deborah Jones\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mourad's food here in the Richmond is an expression of both his own and his customers' restless taste. His book, gorgeously photographed in that lavish minimalist style familiar to readers of European and Australian food magazines, in which single items are shot in mouth-watering, brilliantly detailed close-up, surrounded by tons of expensive-looking white space, sells the not-quite-established celebrity appeal of the handsome Mourad as much as it does his food. The book is gorgeous and spot-on contemporary; if you want a chic cookbook to give your have-everything loft-dwelling pals for the holidays, this is it. (And to ensure an invitation to the cocktail party where they try out the recipes for harissa bloody marys and Berbere-cured chicken liver mousse.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But can you cook from it? For DIY obsessives, the most crucial parts are the opening chapters, which focus on the spice-driven building blocks of Mourad's cuisine. He mentions, casually, that his restaurant staff makes five different \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ras_el_hanout\">\u003cem>ras el hanout\u003c/em>\u003c/a> blends for different dishes, but putting together the one 23-ingredient version he offers should satisfy, especially if you, the home cook, follow it up with the sexy 22-ingredient \u003cem>vadouvan\u003c/em> blend, for which it helps to have a dehydrator as well a tablespoon or so of an additional 10-ingredient curry mix. There is a long, leisurely section about hand-rolling your own couscous from coarse semolina, salt, water, and flour, and an even longer one about making tissue-thin sheets of \u003cem>warqa,\u003c/em> Morocco's version of phyllo, with the up-to-date help of a little xanthan gum. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you move onto the main dishes, success, as always with chef- and restaurant-driven cookbooks, depends on your affinity and patience for long ingredient lists and multiple sub-recipes. Restaurants, as surely as any TV watcher now knows, spend all day, every day, making the many different items that come together on your plate. One guy makes the stocks. Another guy takes those stocks and turns them into sauces. Someone else chops the onions or toasts and grinds the spice mixes. Even if it looks like you're getting protein, vegetables, and sauce on a plate, do a little real analysis and you'll probably find a dozen different steps (or double that) that went into making your meal. And Mourad, 21st-century chef, likes his drips and drizzles, his frizzled herbs and sudden spice-drenched dabs of infused oils. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, you can strip out the fancy stuff, and just make the still luscious-sounding entrees and surprisingly simple but alluring salads and sides. But if you want to get the full Mourad, you're going to have to do some serious spice-shopping, and get ready to divvy up multiple tasks, probably over several days, to crank out a full menu. To make that \u003cstrong>Lamb Shank, Spiced Prunes, and Brown-Butter Farro,\u003c/strong> be prepared to brew up a Red Wine Gastrique Lamb Sauce, make the Spiced Prunes, simmer up some lamb stock, dry your shanks in the fridge overnight, and then tend to them lovingly for at least most of an afternoon, including a nearly 3-hour braising time in the oven. (And if you happen to have some Activa RM around, you can follow the \"Chef to Chef\" tips and turn the meat into a sliceable log.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_35210\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/11/Wolfert-Sara-Remington300.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/11/Wolfert-Sara-Remington300.jpg\" alt=\"Paula Wolfert. Photo: Sara Remington\" title=\"Paula Wolfert. Photo: Sara Remington\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\" class=\"size-full wp-image-35210\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Paula Wolfert.\u003c/strong> Photo: Sara Remington\u003c/em>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp> You won't find xanthan gum in Paula Wolfert's clay-pot-lined kitchen. In the nearly 4 decades since her first Moroccan cookbook came out, Wolfert, who lives in Sonoma, has become perhaps \u003cem>the\u003c/em> American expert on traditional Mediterranean cuisines. Given the Bay Area's affinity with all things olive-oiled and bay-leaved, it's rare to find a kitchen not stocked with at least one of her cookbooks around here. (Those that don't usually have a few by Joyce Goldstein instead.) Wolfert, now 71, still finds a thrill in capturing authenticity, in ferreting out obscure or lesser-known dishes or methods, often unique to a particular region or place. She's especially drawn to those that she feels are in danger of disappearing, as cooks give up (perhaps with a sigh of relief) traditional labor-intensive methods and ingredients. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back when Wolfert first started her cookbook-writing career, her books were more for armchair travelers than hands-on cooks. Finding fresh purslane, nigella seeds, or cubeb pepper was almost impossible; there was no busy-mom instant couscous on the shelves at Safeway. But slowly, book after book, Wolfert made a difference. Now, leafing through \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0061957550/kqedorg-20\">The Food of Morocco\u003c/a>, her decades-later update of that first couscous book, a Bay Area cook would be hard-pressed to find an ingredient that she couldn't source between a handful of well-stocked international-foods shops. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wolfert's book doesn't look as striking as Mourad's; the design is busier, the serifed typefaces fussy, the colors a little washed out. Still, after all these years, Wolfert still has the enthusiasm to sit down with her readers and start right at the beginning. The first 50 pages are lists, techniques, and explanations that explain all the basics and then some, from \u003cstrong>The Ten Most Frequently Used Spices\u003c/strong> (with descriptions), to her own long and enticing description of \u003cem>ras el hanout,\u003c/em> and how it can include up to a hundred ingredients, even the poisonous, irritating, supposed aphrodisiac known as \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spanish_fly\">Spanish fly\u003c/a>. There are questions and answers about how to grate a tomato, why and how to grate an onion, how to make saffron water, even how to peel chickpeas. Wolfert makes no assumptions about the sophistication or hipness of her readers; you can't imagine her labeling a chapter on couscous \"Here's How I Roll,\" as Mourad does. In the recipes, the flavors are familiar, even comforting, rife with almonds, eggplant, cumin, cilantro, turmeric, ginger, olives, lemons, and honey, but the methods just different enough from a typical California sear or grill to twist the results into something altogether different. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So which cookbook will get more spattered in my kitchen? When I'm cooking for myself, I'll trust Wolfert. Cooking to impress? I'll ask the tattooed guy over, and hope he brings a bunch of friends with sharp knives and plenty of time. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/35066/moroccan-cookbook-throwdown-paula-wolferts-the-food-of-morocco-vs-mourad-new-moroccan","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_10"],"tags":["bayareabites_595","bayareabites_9878","bayareabites_8313","bayareabites_8790","bayareabites_9879"],"featImg":"bayareabites_35208","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_24569":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_24569","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"24569","score":null,"sort":[1299885288000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateur-staffan-terje","title":"Food Secrets of Chef/Restaurateur Staffan Terje","publishDate":1299885288,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/03/Staffan_pic-new.jpg\" alt=\"Staffan Terje. Photo: Frankie Frankeny\" title=\"Staffan Terje. Photo: Frankie Frankeny\" width=\"500\" height=\"395\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-24661\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Staffan Terje at Perbacco. Photo: Frankie Frankeny\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef and Restaurateur Staffan Terje likes it fresh at his \u003ca href=\"http://www.perbaccosf.com/\">Perbacco\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.barbaccosf.com/\">barbacco eno trattoria\u003c/a> \"authentic Italian\" restaurants in San Francisco. Why would a Swedish-raised chef choose to craft traditional dishes and recipes from \"la cucina Piemontese?\" Terje explained, \"Italian food is the food that talks to me. You don't choose who you fall in love with. It just happens.\" Meat eaters of a certain breed may swoon to know that Terje has a curing room at Perbacco, used to make various salumi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perbacco is repeatedly listed as a \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/top100/\">San Francisco Chronicle Top 100\u003c/a> pick. 7x7 named the Perbacco Salumi on its \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.7x7.com/eat-drink/2009-big-eat-sf-100-things-try-you-die\">100 things to try before you die\u003c/a>\" list in 2009, and Conde Nast Traveler in 2007 gave the restaurant a spot on the \u003ca href=\"http://www.hotelnewsresource.com/article27275Conde_Nast_Traveler_Unveils_its_Annual_Hotels__Restaurants__Spas__and_Clubs_Hot_List.html\">95 Hot Tables list\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Terje grew up on his grandfather's farm in Sweden, and became passionate about food and eating at an early age. He was surrounded by farm fresh produce, and comes from a family that loved to cook and eat. In high school, Terje was required to apprentice. Many of his classmates chose to apprentice as teachers' assistants; he chose a local slaughterhouse instead. \"I was a punk rocker and naturally wanted to shock my classmates.\" The tactic work, and in the process, Terje realized he had a knack for butchering and quickly picked up knife skills that serve him today. Following high school, he enrolled at the Hotel and Restaurant School in Stockholm, and apprenticed at the Michelin starred Gourmet Restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Terje has been cooking in the Bay Area since 1986. Before opening Perbacco and barbacco, he was the chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.scalasbistro.com/\">Scala’s Bistro\u003c/a> for seven years. He has cooked at the James Beard House. Terje was responsible for new restaurant openings, menu development and training with the \u003ca href=\"http://www.piatti.com/\">Piatti Ristorante\u003c/a> group in Yountville, starting in 1988. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here are Terje's favorite Bay Area food spots:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where do you like to shop for food?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My secret neighborhoods and places that I browse for food are Japan town, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nordichouse.com/\">Nordic House\u003c/a> for Swedish ingredients (I love that they stock all my favorite foods from my native home), The \u003ca href=\"http://www.spanishtable.com/%20\">Spanish Table\u003c/a> in Berkeley, and Tokyo Fish Market for an amazing selection of fish and Japanese ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Favorite local food & drink spots?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My favorite restaurants in the area are \u003ca href=\"http://www.chottosf.com/\">Chotto\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://incanto.biz/\">Incanto\u003c/a>. Each of these places has something unique to offer. At Chotto, I love their yakitori and ramen and the ambience is great. Aziza has amazing couscous, but quite frankly everything on the menu is wonderful, and Incanto makes a delicious spaghetti with tuna heart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How about Mom and Pop joints?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The staff at Perbacco loves the dim sum from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/yous-dim-sum-san-francisco-2\">You's\u003c/a>, so we get takeaway on Saturdays and enjoy it together before prepping for the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Guiltiest food pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Guilty, me? Never. But to be honest I do love \u003ca href=\"http://www.mastbrotherschocolate.com/\">Mast Brothers chocolate\u003c/a> from Brooklyn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cstrong>Where do you live and where are you from?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I currently live in the South Park area of San Francisco. Not South Beach, South Park proper. I was born and raised in Nykoping, Sweden, which is about 50 miles South of Stockholm. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Any news on the horizon?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It looks like mostly travel this year. I am hoping to be in Italy early this summer, then on to Sweden and maybe Japan in the fall. When traveling to each of these locations, I am researching and gathering ideas and methods to bring home with me to uniquely incorporate them into what I do at the restaurant. It’s a time to get inspired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keep an eye on Terje's restaurants to see how these travels translate for eaters.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Chef and Restaurateur Staffan Terje likes it fresh at his Perbacco and barbacco eno trattoria \"authentic Italian\" restaurants in San Francisco. Why would a Swedish-raised chef choose to craft traditional dishes and recipes from \"la cucina Piemontese?\" Terje explained, \"Italian food is the food that talks to me. You don't choose who you fall in love with. It just happens.\" Terje shares his favorite Bay Area food spots on BAB.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1299885666,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":21,"wordCount":622},"headData":{"title":"Food Secrets of Chef/Restaurateur Staffan Terje | KQED","description":"Chef and Restaurateur Staffan Terje likes it fresh at his Perbacco and barbacco eno trattoria "authentic Italian" restaurants in San Francisco. Why would a Swedish-raised chef choose to craft traditional dishes and recipes from "la cucina Piemontese?" Terje explained, "Italian food is the food that talks to me. You don't choose who you fall in love with. It just happens." Terje shares his favorite Bay Area food spots on BAB.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"24569 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=24569","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/03/11/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateur-staffan-terje/","disqusTitle":"Food Secrets of Chef/Restaurateur Staffan Terje","path":"/bayareabites/24569/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateur-staffan-terje","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/03/Staffan_pic-new.jpg\" alt=\"Staffan Terje. Photo: Frankie Frankeny\" title=\"Staffan Terje. Photo: Frankie Frankeny\" width=\"500\" height=\"395\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-24661\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Staffan Terje at Perbacco. Photo: Frankie Frankeny\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef and Restaurateur Staffan Terje likes it fresh at his \u003ca href=\"http://www.perbaccosf.com/\">Perbacco\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.barbaccosf.com/\">barbacco eno trattoria\u003c/a> \"authentic Italian\" restaurants in San Francisco. Why would a Swedish-raised chef choose to craft traditional dishes and recipes from \"la cucina Piemontese?\" Terje explained, \"Italian food is the food that talks to me. You don't choose who you fall in love with. It just happens.\" Meat eaters of a certain breed may swoon to know that Terje has a curing room at Perbacco, used to make various salumi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perbacco is repeatedly listed as a \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/top100/\">San Francisco Chronicle Top 100\u003c/a> pick. 7x7 named the Perbacco Salumi on its \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.7x7.com/eat-drink/2009-big-eat-sf-100-things-try-you-die\">100 things to try before you die\u003c/a>\" list in 2009, and Conde Nast Traveler in 2007 gave the restaurant a spot on the \u003ca href=\"http://www.hotelnewsresource.com/article27275Conde_Nast_Traveler_Unveils_its_Annual_Hotels__Restaurants__Spas__and_Clubs_Hot_List.html\">95 Hot Tables list\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Terje grew up on his grandfather's farm in Sweden, and became passionate about food and eating at an early age. He was surrounded by farm fresh produce, and comes from a family that loved to cook and eat. In high school, Terje was required to apprentice. Many of his classmates chose to apprentice as teachers' assistants; he chose a local slaughterhouse instead. \"I was a punk rocker and naturally wanted to shock my classmates.\" The tactic work, and in the process, Terje realized he had a knack for butchering and quickly picked up knife skills that serve him today. Following high school, he enrolled at the Hotel and Restaurant School in Stockholm, and apprenticed at the Michelin starred Gourmet Restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Terje has been cooking in the Bay Area since 1986. Before opening Perbacco and barbacco, he was the chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.scalasbistro.com/\">Scala’s Bistro\u003c/a> for seven years. He has cooked at the James Beard House. Terje was responsible for new restaurant openings, menu development and training with the \u003ca href=\"http://www.piatti.com/\">Piatti Ristorante\u003c/a> group in Yountville, starting in 1988. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here are Terje's favorite Bay Area food spots:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where do you like to shop for food?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My secret neighborhoods and places that I browse for food are Japan town, \u003ca href=\"http://www.nordichouse.com/\">Nordic House\u003c/a> for Swedish ingredients (I love that they stock all my favorite foods from my native home), The \u003ca href=\"http://www.spanishtable.com/%20\">Spanish Table\u003c/a> in Berkeley, and Tokyo Fish Market for an amazing selection of fish and Japanese ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Favorite local food & drink spots?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My favorite restaurants in the area are \u003ca href=\"http://www.chottosf.com/\">Chotto\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://incanto.biz/\">Incanto\u003c/a>. Each of these places has something unique to offer. At Chotto, I love their yakitori and ramen and the ambience is great. Aziza has amazing couscous, but quite frankly everything on the menu is wonderful, and Incanto makes a delicious spaghetti with tuna heart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How about Mom and Pop joints?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The staff at Perbacco loves the dim sum from \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/yous-dim-sum-san-francisco-2\">You's\u003c/a>, so we get takeaway on Saturdays and enjoy it together before prepping for the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Guiltiest food pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Guilty, me? Never. But to be honest I do love \u003ca href=\"http://www.mastbrotherschocolate.com/\">Mast Brothers chocolate\u003c/a> from Brooklyn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cstrong>Where do you live and where are you from?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I currently live in the South Park area of San Francisco. Not South Beach, South Park proper. I was born and raised in Nykoping, Sweden, which is about 50 miles South of Stockholm. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Any news on the horizon?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It looks like mostly travel this year. I am hoping to be in Italy early this summer, then on to Sweden and maybe Japan in the fall. When traveling to each of these locations, I am researching and gathering ideas and methods to bring home with me to uniquely incorporate them into what I do at the restaurant. It’s a time to get inspired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keep an eye on Terje's restaurants to see how these travels translate for eaters.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/24569/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateur-staffan-terje","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_595","bayareabites_9106","bayareabites_9107","bayareabites_9108","bayareabites_9112","bayareabites_9111","bayareabites_9105","bayareabites_318","bayareabites_9110","bayareabites_9104","bayareabites_9109"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_21921":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_21921","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"21921","score":null,"sort":[1295648617000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"bay-area-chefs-on-how-to-select-winter-produce-part-2","title":"Bay Area Chefs on How to Select Winter Produce, Part 2","publishDate":1295648617,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/evanrich500.jpg\" alt=\" Evan Rich from Coi at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\" Evan Rich from Coi at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21927\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Coi’s Evan Rich surveys Page mandarin oranges\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another sunny Saturday morning found us back at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com/farmers_market.php\">Ferry Plaza Farmers Market\u003c/a>, the secret weapon of San Francisco’s thoughtful, creative chefs. The Bay Area has a wide variety of interesting fruits and vegetables growing here and near year-round, and while we’re surrounded by it all the time, you’re not alone if you have little to no idea what to look for when picking produce. We tagged along with four local culinary artists on their morning run around the various farm stands to steal their valuable tips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/trevorogden500.jpg\" alt=\"Mission Beach Cafe Trevor Ogden sorts through parsnips. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"Mission Beach Cafe Trevor Ogden sorts through parsnips. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21932\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Mission Beach Café’s Trevor Ogden sorts through parsnips.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/parsnips500.jpg\" alt=\"parsnips at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"parsnips at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21933\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trevor Ogden, executive chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.missionbeachcafesf.com\">Mission Beach Café\u003c/a>, is currently accompanying his braised Prather Ranch lamb shank with a puree of baby parsnips, which he picks up from \u003ca href=\"http://www.heirloom-organic.com/\">Heirloom Organic Gardens\u003c/a>. When shopping for the root vegetable for home cooking, however, Ogden says size doesn’t really matter all that much.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“You can use both,” he advises. “Bigger can be better, but the little ones you don’t have to peel.” Look for clean, firm roots.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/louismaldonado500.jpg\" alt=\"Azizas Louis Maldonado looks at Romanesco broccoli. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"Azizas Louis Maldonado looks at Romanesco broccoli. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21936\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Aziza's Louis Maldonado looks at Romanesco broccoli.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/romanesco500.jpg\" alt=\"Romanesco broccoli at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"Romanesco broccoli at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21937\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Louis Maldonado, chef de cuisine at \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com\">Aziza\u003c/a>, enjoys working with Romanesco broccoli, which he prizes for its trimmings even more than the crowns. Sometimes he’ll even purchase them separately, often from \u003ca href=\"http://www.dirtygirlproduce.com\">Dirty Girl Produce\u003c/a>. The trimmings work well for him because he doesn’t have to blanch or otherwise prepare some big hunk of broccoli. We’ve always stumbled around and picked huge, fat crowns, but it turns out that’s not a great strategy. Maldonado instead looks for really small crowns and roasts them whole with anchovies, lemon, parsley, and olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“When they get bigger, it kind of takes the special [qualities] away, so we just try to go for smaller ones,” he says. “The stuff they don’t make money on, we try to buy.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/gustavoromero500.jpg\" alt=\" Credos Gustavo Romero ponders the best purple kohlrabi. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\" Credos Gustavo Romero ponders the best purple kohlrabi. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21941\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Credo’s Gustavo Romero ponders the best purple kohlrabi.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/kohlrabi500.jpg\" alt=\"purple kohlrabi at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"purple kohlrabi at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21942\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Purple kohlrabi is big and scary looking, not the sort of vegetable that timid chefs would take a chance on, but Gustavo Romero, executive chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.credosf.com\">Credo\u003c/a>, makes it sound versatile and easy to use. \u003ca href=\"http://www.heirloom-organic.com/\">Heirloom Organic Gardens\u003c/a> is sporting big, beautiful specimens of this traditionally Lebanese, cabbage-like veggie right now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“All the stuff they bring here is good quality,” notes Romero as we walk back towards the stand and spot the purple beasts. He picks up a few that are bigger, with cleaner white spots. “For the restaurant, I like to use the larger ones to mash them, because it’s easier and you spend less time doing it. In root vegetables, I don’t think the size especially matters unless you’re talking about carrots, because baby carrots have a lot more flavor.” Credo currently cooks a fish in parchment paper with root vegetables, including kohlrabi. He also loves to boil them and use them in a puree for a great consistency.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Kohlrabi is great steamed in a stew with potatoes, carrots, and a chicken; it’s also great as a crudité or shredded like a cole slaw, skin and all,” adds Heirloom Organic farmer Dave Jamrock.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/mandarin500.jpg\" alt=\"Page mandarin orange at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"Page mandarin orange at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21929\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Page mandarin orange\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many of his colleagues, Evan Rich, chef de cuisine at \u003ca href=\"http://www.coirestaurant.com\">Coi\u003c/a>, heads to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_39.php\">Hamada Farms\u003c/a> stand for citrus. Right now, the Page mandarin oranges at Hamada are really good. He uses the juice for a play on a mandarin sour cocktail: Frozen mandarin ice with mandarin vodka jelly and a frozen meringue flavored with Angostura bitters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He looks for a fruit that weighs a little bit, and says the color of the skin is important: If it’s more vibrant and darkly hued, the juice will probably be sweeter and more concentrated. He also suggests holding one in each hand; the heavier one will produce more juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hamada is a reliable source, but Rich will often go the extra step to research the weather conditions around the various farms to figure out which ones might be producing the fruit with the most and most flavorful juice at the moment and then do a taste test at the stands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“At Coi, that’s the kind of intensity we have with the ingredients,” he says. “It’s very important about taste and freshness. With fresh ingredients, there’s like an energy — it’s hard to explain, but it’s like there’s something that you can’t even notice, but it’s a subconscious thing that you just realize it’s better. And that’s why I come here.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Previously:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/12/31/bay-area-chefs-on-how-to-select-winter-produce/\">Bay Area Chefs on Winter Produce\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Another sunny Saturday morning found us back at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, the secret weapon of San Francisco’s thoughtful, creative chefs. The Bay Area has a wide variety of interesting fruits and vegetables growing here and near year-round, and while we’re surrounded by it all the time, you’re not alone if you have little to no idea what to look for when picking produce. We tagged along with four local culinary artists on their morning run around the various farm stands to steal their valuable tips.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1295648617,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":821},"headData":{"title":"Bay Area Chefs on How to Select Winter Produce, Part 2 | KQED","description":"Another sunny Saturday morning found us back at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, the secret weapon of San Francisco’s thoughtful, creative chefs. The Bay Area has a wide variety of interesting fruits and vegetables growing here and near year-round, and while we’re surrounded by it all the time, you’re not alone if you have little to no idea what to look for when picking produce. We tagged along with four local culinary artists on their morning run around the various farm stands to steal their valuable tips.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"21921 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=21921","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/21/bay-area-chefs-on-how-to-select-winter-produce-part-2/","disqusTitle":"Bay Area Chefs on How to Select Winter Produce, Part 2","path":"/bayareabites/21921/bay-area-chefs-on-how-to-select-winter-produce-part-2","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/evanrich500.jpg\" alt=\" Evan Rich from Coi at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\" Evan Rich from Coi at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21927\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Coi’s Evan Rich surveys Page mandarin oranges\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another sunny Saturday morning found us back at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com/farmers_market.php\">Ferry Plaza Farmers Market\u003c/a>, the secret weapon of San Francisco’s thoughtful, creative chefs. The Bay Area has a wide variety of interesting fruits and vegetables growing here and near year-round, and while we’re surrounded by it all the time, you’re not alone if you have little to no idea what to look for when picking produce. We tagged along with four local culinary artists on their morning run around the various farm stands to steal their valuable tips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/trevorogden500.jpg\" alt=\"Mission Beach Cafe Trevor Ogden sorts through parsnips. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"Mission Beach Cafe Trevor Ogden sorts through parsnips. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21932\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Mission Beach Café’s Trevor Ogden sorts through parsnips.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/parsnips500.jpg\" alt=\"parsnips at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"parsnips at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21933\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trevor Ogden, executive chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.missionbeachcafesf.com\">Mission Beach Café\u003c/a>, is currently accompanying his braised Prather Ranch lamb shank with a puree of baby parsnips, which he picks up from \u003ca href=\"http://www.heirloom-organic.com/\">Heirloom Organic Gardens\u003c/a>. When shopping for the root vegetable for home cooking, however, Ogden says size doesn’t really matter all that much.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“You can use both,” he advises. “Bigger can be better, but the little ones you don’t have to peel.” Look for clean, firm roots.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/louismaldonado500.jpg\" alt=\"Azizas Louis Maldonado looks at Romanesco broccoli. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"Azizas Louis Maldonado looks at Romanesco broccoli. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21936\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Aziza's Louis Maldonado looks at Romanesco broccoli.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/romanesco500.jpg\" alt=\"Romanesco broccoli at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"Romanesco broccoli at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21937\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Louis Maldonado, chef de cuisine at \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com\">Aziza\u003c/a>, enjoys working with Romanesco broccoli, which he prizes for its trimmings even more than the crowns. Sometimes he’ll even purchase them separately, often from \u003ca href=\"http://www.dirtygirlproduce.com\">Dirty Girl Produce\u003c/a>. The trimmings work well for him because he doesn’t have to blanch or otherwise prepare some big hunk of broccoli. We’ve always stumbled around and picked huge, fat crowns, but it turns out that’s not a great strategy. Maldonado instead looks for really small crowns and roasts them whole with anchovies, lemon, parsley, and olive oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“When they get bigger, it kind of takes the special [qualities] away, so we just try to go for smaller ones,” he says. “The stuff they don’t make money on, we try to buy.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/gustavoromero500.jpg\" alt=\" Credos Gustavo Romero ponders the best purple kohlrabi. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\" Credos Gustavo Romero ponders the best purple kohlrabi. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21941\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Credo’s Gustavo Romero ponders the best purple kohlrabi.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/kohlrabi500.jpg\" alt=\"purple kohlrabi at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"purple kohlrabi at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21942\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Purple kohlrabi is big and scary looking, not the sort of vegetable that timid chefs would take a chance on, but Gustavo Romero, executive chef at \u003ca href=\"http://www.credosf.com\">Credo\u003c/a>, makes it sound versatile and easy to use. \u003ca href=\"http://www.heirloom-organic.com/\">Heirloom Organic Gardens\u003c/a> is sporting big, beautiful specimens of this traditionally Lebanese, cabbage-like veggie right now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“All the stuff they bring here is good quality,” notes Romero as we walk back towards the stand and spot the purple beasts. He picks up a few that are bigger, with cleaner white spots. “For the restaurant, I like to use the larger ones to mash them, because it’s easier and you spend less time doing it. In root vegetables, I don’t think the size especially matters unless you’re talking about carrots, because baby carrots have a lot more flavor.” Credo currently cooks a fish in parchment paper with root vegetables, including kohlrabi. He also loves to boil them and use them in a puree for a great consistency.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Kohlrabi is great steamed in a stew with potatoes, carrots, and a chicken; it’s also great as a crudité or shredded like a cole slaw, skin and all,” adds Heirloom Organic farmer Dave Jamrock.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/mandarin500.jpg\" alt=\"Page mandarin orange at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" title=\"Page mandarin orange at Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-21929\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Page mandarin orange\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many of his colleagues, Evan Rich, chef de cuisine at \u003ca href=\"http://www.coirestaurant.com\">Coi\u003c/a>, heads to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_39.php\">Hamada Farms\u003c/a> stand for citrus. Right now, the Page mandarin oranges at Hamada are really good. He uses the juice for a play on a mandarin sour cocktail: Frozen mandarin ice with mandarin vodka jelly and a frozen meringue flavored with Angostura bitters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He looks for a fruit that weighs a little bit, and says the color of the skin is important: If it’s more vibrant and darkly hued, the juice will probably be sweeter and more concentrated. He also suggests holding one in each hand; the heavier one will produce more juice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hamada is a reliable source, but Rich will often go the extra step to research the weather conditions around the various farms to figure out which ones might be producing the fruit with the most and most flavorful juice at the moment and then do a taste test at the stands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“At Coi, that’s the kind of intensity we have with the ingredients,” he says. “It’s very important about taste and freshness. With fresh ingredients, there’s like an energy — it’s hard to explain, but it’s like there’s something that you can’t even notice, but it’s a subconscious thing that you just realize it’s better. And that’s why I come here.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Previously:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/12/31/bay-area-chefs-on-how-to-select-winter-produce/\">Bay Area Chefs on Winter Produce\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/21921/bay-area-chefs-on-how-to-select-winter-produce-part-2","authors":["5111"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_95","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_595","bayareabites_3998","bayareabites_8850","bayareabites_8845","bayareabites_8846","bayareabites_500","bayareabites_8851","bayareabites_8673","bayareabites_2053","bayareabites_8848","bayareabites_8561","bayareabites_3539","bayareabites_667","bayareabites_8849","bayareabites_8847","bayareabites_8844"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_20986":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_20986","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"20986","score":null,"sort":[1294432749000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson","title":"Food Secrets of Chef/Restaurateur/Writer Daniel Patterson","publishDate":1294432749,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/daniel-patterson.jpg\" alt=\"Daniel Patterson Photo by Michele Hood\" title=\"Daniel Patterson Photo by Michele Hood\" width=\"500\" height=\"494\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20987\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo Credit: Michele Hood\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/dcpatterson\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a> is a self-taught chef well known to eaters and readers for his food, expanding Bay Area restaurant group, and writing. His fine dining \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi Restaurant\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/coirestaurant\">@coirestaurant\u003c/a>) opened in 2006 in San Francisco, and won two Michelin stars in 2008. Frank Bruni of the New York Times named Coi as a top ten new restaurant outside of New York, and the San Francisco Chronicle awarded Coi four stars. Patterson opened a more casual concept called \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/canerossosf\">Il Cane Rosso\u003c/a> in the Ferry Building in 2009. \u003ca href=\"http://plumoakland.com/\">Plum\u003c/a> opened in Oakland last year. On December 1st, Patterson reported on his Twitter feed that he was the soup cook \"at least for a little while\" for the Plum lunch debut. \u003cem>Bay Area Bites\u003c/em> caught up with Patterson soon after that via phone interview.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1994 Patterson opened \u003cstrong>Babette's\u003c/strong>, his first restaurant, in Sonoma, at the age of 25. Soon after, Food & Wine Magazine named him \"Best New Chef\" in 1997 and San Francisco Focus awarded him the title of \"Rising Star Chef\" the same year. In 2000, Daniel opened \u003cstrong>Elisabeth Daniel\u003c/strong> in San Francisco, which was nominated \"Best New Restaurant\" by the James Beard Foundation in 2001. He was named \"Chef of the Year\" by San Francisco Magazine in 2007.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With natural perfumer \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/AftelierPerfume\">Mandy Aftel\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://www.aftelier.com/\">aftelier.com\u003c/a>), he wrote \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Aroma-Magic-Essential-Foods-Fragrance/dp/1579652646/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1294430027&sr=8-1\">Aroma: the Magic of Essential Oils in Food and Fragrance\u003c/a>\" in 2004. His bio says that \"It was the first cookbook to explain the use of essential oils in cooking and the connection of the sense of smell to emotion and memory in this context.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patterson reported that he and his family cook at home \"a lot\" and that he and his wife used to go out much more often before they had a child. And yes, his young son loves to eat chicken skin. As for his food favorites, Patterson paused. \"I'm not that kinda guy. I order what I'm in the mood for. It doesn't typically follow patterns.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>THE WISH LIST\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPatterson wants to visit these restaurants and said it's \"My wish list, for when I get a day off\":\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://flourandwater.com/\">Flour & Water\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthsf.com/\">Commonwealth\u003c/a>: \"I've never been.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.frances-sf.com/\">Frances\u003c/a>: \"Unbelievably, I've never been there.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>FAMILY TIME\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe chef and his wife like to dine out near their home in the the East Bay. \"Most of the places we go our geared to (our son).\" First stops are courtesy of Charlie Hallowell: \"Usually, we get pizza from \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzaiolooakland.com/\">Pizzaiolo\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.bootandshoeservice.com/\">Boot & Shoe\u003c/a>. I love their salads, and love the drinks at both... the Pizzaiolo head bartender is terrific.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another family stop: Russell & Allison Moore's \u003ca href=\"http://www.caminorestaurant.com/\">Camino Restaurant\u003c/a>, which \"is geographically close to where we live.\" Patterson will generally order \"whatever they have on the menu.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the City, Patterson's first outing of choice is the Cal-Med-Moroccan fine dining hotspot \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a>, run by Chef Mourad Lahlou: \"Let (Chef) Mourad cook.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up are organic wood-fired comfort food at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a> and organic-sustainable Mexican food with a local bent at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopalitosf.com/\">Nopalito\u003c/a>. Patterson said both restaurants are \"sensational.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Southern-Italian food and wine, \u003ca href=\"http://www.a16sf.com/%20\">A16\u003c/a> is another San Francisco favorite. \"We used to live around the corner… we don't go to the city so much anymore.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SWEETS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.bluebottlecoffee.net/locations/kiosk/\">James Freeman's Blue Bottle\u003c/a> \"has an incredible space in the middle of the city. Cakes too. It's really special.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patterson enjoys eating Humphry Slocombe ice cream. Humphry's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/12/food-secrets-of-humphry-slocombes-jake-godby-sean-vahey/\">Jake Godby\u003c/a> used to do pastry work at Coi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.junetaylorjams.com/\">June Taylor Preserves\u003c/a> hit the sweet spot: \"We always have some of these at home.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>DRINKS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a> \"is fantastic. Thad Vogler is a favorite.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I love the drinks at \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a>. Eric Atkins has been there a long time. He'll make stuff and it's always amazing.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ON READING\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHaving a family and running three restaurants seem to leave Patterson with little free time. He said that \"I've done a lot of \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/09/daniel_patterson_learns_new_yo.php\">book events\u003c/a> this year. Reading time is nonexistent. I work from eight in the morning to midnight. (So) I read in concentrated bursts. Or to research.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He did cite \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/10/harold_mcgee_talks_food_scienc.php\">Harold McGee\u003c/a>'s new \u003ca href=\"http://www.curiouscook.com/cook/home.php\">Keys to Good Cooking: A Guide to Making the Best of Foods and Recipes\u003c/a> book (The Penguin Press, $35), calling it \"fantastic.\" Daniel has written for the \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Food & Wine\u003c/em>, \u003cem>London Financial Times\u003c/em> and \u003cem>San Francisco Magazine\u003c/em>. Readers can look forward to Patterson's second book, which he is currently working on. It will be a Coi cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Daniel Patterson is a self-taught chef well known to eaters and readers for his food, expanding Bay Area restaurant group, and writing. His fine dining Coi Restaurant opened in 2006 in San Francisco, and won two Michelin stars in 2008. Frank Bruni of the New York Times named Coi as a top ten new restaurant outside of New York, and the San Francisco Chronicle awarded Coi four stars. Patterson opened a more casual concept called Il Cane Rosso in the Ferry Building in 2009. Plum opened in Oakland last year. On December 1st, Patterson reported on his Twitter feed that he was the soup cook \"at least for a little while\" for the Plum lunch debut. \u003cem>Bay Area Bites\u003c/em> caught up with Patterson soon after that via phone interview.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1294438759,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":762},"headData":{"title":"Food Secrets of Chef/Restaurateur/Writer Daniel Patterson | KQED","description":"Daniel Patterson is a self-taught chef well known to eaters and readers for his food, expanding Bay Area restaurant group, and writing. His fine dining Coi Restaurant opened in 2006 in San Francisco, and won two Michelin stars in 2008. Frank Bruni of the New York Times named Coi as a top ten new restaurant outside of New York, and the San Francisco Chronicle awarded Coi four stars. Patterson opened a more casual concept called Il Cane Rosso in the Ferry Building in 2009. Plum opened in Oakland last year. On December 1st, Patterson reported on his Twitter feed that he was the soup cook "at least for a little while" for the Plum lunch debut. Bay Area Bites caught up with Patterson soon after that via phone interview.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"20986 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=20986","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/07/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson/","disqusTitle":"Food Secrets of Chef/Restaurateur/Writer Daniel Patterson","path":"/bayareabites/20986/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/daniel-patterson.jpg\" alt=\"Daniel Patterson Photo by Michele Hood\" title=\"Daniel Patterson Photo by Michele Hood\" width=\"500\" height=\"494\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20987\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Photo Credit: Michele Hood\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/dcpatterson\">Daniel Patterson\u003c/a> is a self-taught chef well known to eaters and readers for his food, expanding Bay Area restaurant group, and writing. His fine dining \u003ca href=\"http://coirestaurant.com/\">Coi Restaurant\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/coirestaurant\">@coirestaurant\u003c/a>) opened in 2006 in San Francisco, and won two Michelin stars in 2008. Frank Bruni of the New York Times named Coi as a top ten new restaurant outside of New York, and the San Francisco Chronicle awarded Coi four stars. Patterson opened a more casual concept called \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/canerossosf\">Il Cane Rosso\u003c/a> in the Ferry Building in 2009. \u003ca href=\"http://plumoakland.com/\">Plum\u003c/a> opened in Oakland last year. On December 1st, Patterson reported on his Twitter feed that he was the soup cook \"at least for a little while\" for the Plum lunch debut. \u003cem>Bay Area Bites\u003c/em> caught up with Patterson soon after that via phone interview.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1994 Patterson opened \u003cstrong>Babette's\u003c/strong>, his first restaurant, in Sonoma, at the age of 25. Soon after, Food & Wine Magazine named him \"Best New Chef\" in 1997 and San Francisco Focus awarded him the title of \"Rising Star Chef\" the same year. In 2000, Daniel opened \u003cstrong>Elisabeth Daniel\u003c/strong> in San Francisco, which was nominated \"Best New Restaurant\" by the James Beard Foundation in 2001. He was named \"Chef of the Year\" by San Francisco Magazine in 2007.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With natural perfumer \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/AftelierPerfume\">Mandy Aftel\u003c/a> (\u003ca href=\"http://www.aftelier.com/\">aftelier.com\u003c/a>), he wrote \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Aroma-Magic-Essential-Foods-Fragrance/dp/1579652646/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1294430027&sr=8-1\">Aroma: the Magic of Essential Oils in Food and Fragrance\u003c/a>\" in 2004. His bio says that \"It was the first cookbook to explain the use of essential oils in cooking and the connection of the sense of smell to emotion and memory in this context.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patterson reported that he and his family cook at home \"a lot\" and that he and his wife used to go out much more often before they had a child. And yes, his young son loves to eat chicken skin. As for his food favorites, Patterson paused. \"I'm not that kinda guy. I order what I'm in the mood for. It doesn't typically follow patterns.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>THE WISH LIST\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPatterson wants to visit these restaurants and said it's \"My wish list, for when I get a day off\":\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.benusf.com/\">Benu\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://flourandwater.com/\">Flour & Water\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.commonwealthsf.com/\">Commonwealth\u003c/a>: \"I've never been.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.frances-sf.com/\">Frances\u003c/a>: \"Unbelievably, I've never been there.\"\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>FAMILY TIME\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe chef and his wife like to dine out near their home in the the East Bay. \"Most of the places we go our geared to (our son).\" First stops are courtesy of Charlie Hallowell: \"Usually, we get pizza from \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzaiolooakland.com/\">Pizzaiolo\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.bootandshoeservice.com/\">Boot & Shoe\u003c/a>. I love their salads, and love the drinks at both... the Pizzaiolo head bartender is terrific.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another family stop: Russell & Allison Moore's \u003ca href=\"http://www.caminorestaurant.com/\">Camino Restaurant\u003c/a>, which \"is geographically close to where we live.\" Patterson will generally order \"whatever they have on the menu.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the City, Patterson's first outing of choice is the Cal-Med-Moroccan fine dining hotspot \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a>, run by Chef Mourad Lahlou: \"Let (Chef) Mourad cook.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up are organic wood-fired comfort food at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopasf.com/\">Nopa\u003c/a> and organic-sustainable Mexican food with a local bent at \u003ca href=\"http://www.nopalitosf.com/\">Nopalito\u003c/a>. Patterson said both restaurants are \"sensational.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Southern-Italian food and wine, \u003ca href=\"http://www.a16sf.com/%20\">A16\u003c/a> is another San Francisco favorite. \"We used to live around the corner… we don't go to the city so much anymore.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SWEETS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.bluebottlecoffee.net/locations/kiosk/\">James Freeman's Blue Bottle\u003c/a> \"has an incredible space in the middle of the city. Cakes too. It's really special.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patterson enjoys eating Humphry Slocombe ice cream. Humphry's \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/12/food-secrets-of-humphry-slocombes-jake-godby-sean-vahey/\">Jake Godby\u003c/a> used to do pastry work at Coi. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.junetaylorjams.com/\">June Taylor Preserves\u003c/a> hit the sweet spot: \"We always have some of these at home.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>DRINKS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a> \"is fantastic. Thad Vogler is a favorite.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I love the drinks at \u003ca href=\"http://www.slanteddoor.com/\">Slanted Door\u003c/a>. Eric Atkins has been there a long time. He'll make stuff and it's always amazing.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ON READING\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHaving a family and running three restaurants seem to leave Patterson with little free time. He said that \"I've done a lot of \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/09/daniel_patterson_learns_new_yo.php\">book events\u003c/a> this year. Reading time is nonexistent. I work from eight in the morning to midnight. (So) I read in concentrated bursts. Or to research.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He did cite \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2010/10/harold_mcgee_talks_food_scienc.php\">Harold McGee\u003c/a>'s new \u003ca href=\"http://www.curiouscook.com/cook/home.php\">Keys to Good Cooking: A Guide to Making the Best of Foods and Recipes\u003c/a> book (The Penguin Press, $35), calling it \"fantastic.\" Daniel has written for the \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Food & Wine\u003c/em>, \u003cem>London Financial Times\u003c/em> and \u003cem>San Francisco Magazine\u003c/em>. Readers can look forward to Patterson's second book, which he is currently working on. It will be a Coi cookbook.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/20986/food-secrets-of-chefrestaurateurwriter-daniel-patterson","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_595","bayareabites_8789","bayareabites_8472","bayareabites_3367","bayareabites_3998","bayareabites_3999","bayareabites_8521","bayareabites_14773","bayareabites_8399","bayareabites_8790","bayareabites_219","bayareabites_4030","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_8302","bayareabites_8785"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_18415":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_18415","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"18415","score":null,"sort":[1289225857000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"sf-food-wars-the-essential-new-york-times-cookbook-brunch","title":"SF Food Wars: The Essential New York Times Cookbook Brunch","publishDate":1289225857,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/2010_10_sffoodwars-20.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/2010_10_sffoodwars-20.jpg\" alt=\"SF Food Wars_Richie Nakano, Hapa Ramen \" title=\"SF Food Wars_Richie Nakano, Hapa Ramen \" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18420\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Richie Nakano (Hapa Ramen) plating Ricotta Crostini with Butternut Squash\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What was that warm tingling sensation glowing from the back of my throat? Was it my imagination, or did my pulse just quicken a touch? I retraced my steps to \u003cstrong>Richie Nakano\u003c/strong> (\u003ca href=\"http://haparamensf.com/\">Hapa Ramen\u003c/a>) and shot him a quizzical look. \"You felt it, huh?\" he said, reading my mind. Yes, Richie. I felt it. What did I just eat?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh you know, your standard crostini, spiked with nicotine. Nakano's dish started out innocent enough: toasted slices of crusty bread topped with fresh \u003ca href=\"http://www.strausfamilycreamery.com/\">Straus Family Creamery\u003c/a> \u003cstrong>ricotta\u003c/strong> made that morning, and \u003cstrong>butternut squash\u003c/strong> seasoned with thyme and oregano. Here's where it gets interesting. He roasted the squash over \u003cstrong>tobacco leaves\u003c/strong>. Sourced from \u003ca href=\"http://www.happyquailfarms.com/\">Happy Quail Farms\u003c/a>, the leaves are typically used to wrap cigars. Used for cooking…the result is an interesting, sweet, smoky flavor, with some interesting physical reactions. Nakano made sure not to put too much of the butternut squash on each crostini (and don't worry, this was a 21+ event). He did warn that if trying this innovative method at home and you're tasting a lot as you cook, be careful that your heart doesn't explode.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/2010_10_sffoodwars-7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/2010_10_sffoodwars-7.jpg\" alt=\"Amanda Hesser\" title=\"Amanda Hesser\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18419\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Amanda Hesser, author of The Essential New York Times Cookbook (Photo Credit: \u003ca href=\"http://norecipes.com/\">Marc Matsumoto\u003c/a>)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hapa Ramen was just one of the 11 restaurants who participated in Sunday's \u003ca href=\"http://sffoodwars.com/nyt/\">SF Food Wars: Ultimate Potluck Cocktail Brunch\u003c/a> edition with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/07/interview-with-amanda-hesser-the-essential-new-york-times-cookbook/\">Amanda Hesser\u003c/a>. The sold-out event was the official West coast launch party for \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0393061035/kqedorg-20\">The Essential New York Times Cookbook\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. Hesser spent six years cooking her way through the \u003cem>New York Times's\u003c/em> recipe archive, testing more than 1,400 recipes from across a 150-year period. For the potluck brunch, each local chef prepared a \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/sffoodwars/5147208310/lightbox/\">dish\u003c/a> inspired by recipes from the cookbook. Here are a few highlights:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/2010_10_sffoodwars-5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/2010_10_sffoodwars-5.jpg\" alt=\"Beet Tzatzkiki & Smoked Trout Lettuce Cups_Starbelly\" title=\"Beet Tzatzkiki & Smoked Trout Lettuce Cups_Starbelly\" width=\"500\" height=\"259\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18418\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Beet Tzatzkiki & Smoked Trout Lettuce Cups by Adam Timney, Starbelly (Photo Credit: \u003ca href=\"http://norecipes.com/\">Marc Matsumoto\u003c/a>)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This impossibly pink \u003cstrong>Beet Tzatzkiki\u003c/strong> \u003cem>(page 89)\u003c/em> from \u003cstrong>Adam Timney\u003c/strong> at \u003ca href=\"http://starbellysf.com/\">Starbelly\u003c/a> was just what we needed on this rainy gray afternoon. Made with thick, creamy, Greek-style yogurt, the beet dip was sweet and tangy, and served with a spoonful of smoked trout and a little mint in a crispy lettuce cup. This was one light, refreshing, and well-balanced bite. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/eggs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/eggs.jpg\" alt=\"Poached Eggs_Aziza\" title=\"Poached Eggs_Aziza\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18421\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Poached Eggs by Mourad Lahlou & Louis Maldonado, Aziza (Photo Credit: \u003ca href=\"http://norecipes.com/\">Marc Matsumoto\u003c/a>)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a> outdid itself with three solid dishes from \u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>Louis Maldonado\u003c/strong>, and \u003cstrong>Melissa Chou\u003c/strong>. Their take on \u003cstrong>Poached Eggs with Date-Chorizo Paste\u003c/strong> \u003cem>(page 636)\u003c/em> was beautifully presented in an eggshell. Composed of a soft-poached egg layered with a date-chorizo mixture and topped with some creamy crème fraiche foam, the flavors had the familiar feel of a hearty \u003cem>huevos rancheros\u003c/em> brunch even though the aesthetic was more refined. I especially loved the play between the spicy, meaty chorizo and the molasses-like pureed dates. Rather than accenting the dish with truffle oil, as recommended in the original recipe, the chefs bumped up the flavor with a pop of citrus zest in the filling and tied it all together with the soft, airy creaminess of the crème fraiche. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/2010_10_sffoodwars-1_marc.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/2010_10_sffoodwars-1_marc.jpg\" alt=\"Joyce Goldstein's Pickled Salmon_Aziza\" title=\"Joyce Goldstein's Pickled Salmon_Aziza\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18416\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Joyce Goldstein's Pickled Salmon by Mourad Lahlou & Louis Maldonado, Aziza (Photo Credit: \u003ca href=\"http://norecipes.com/\">Marc Matsumoto\u003c/a>)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Joyce Goldstein's Pickled Salmon\u003c/strong> \u003cem>(page 404)\u003c/em> was presented in pretty hors d'oeuvre form with the pickled salmon served in a mousse-like consistency accompanied by delicately sliced cucumbers and pickled onions over dainty squares of pumpernickel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/2010_10_sffoodwars-2_marc.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/2010_10_sffoodwars-2_marc.jpg\" alt=\"Banana Cream Pie_Aziza\" title=\"Banana Cream Pie_Aziza\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18417\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Banana Cream Pie by Melissa Chou, Aziza (Photo Credit: \u003ca href=\"http://norecipes.com/\">Marc Matsumoto\u003c/a>)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I adored pastry chef \u003cstrong>Melissa Chou's\u003c/strong> sophisticated take on \u003cstrong>Banana Cream Pie\u003c/strong> \u003cem>(page 863)\u003c/em>. It started with a buttery, flaky pie crust round, topped with vanilla-specked cream, slices of banana, and a sprinkling of oatmeal crisp. A garnish of some dark chocolate and mocha cream was the perfect addition that graduated this dessert from finishing school. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike other SF Food Wars, this event was a non-competitive tasting event so no one officially took home the crown. As far as I'm concerned though, after eating my way through these creative dishes, I'm the real winner.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Highlights from SF Food Wars: Ultimate Potluck Cocktail Brunch with Amanda Hesser (a.k.a. the official West coast launch party for The Essential New York Times Cookbook)","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1289240090,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":698},"headData":{"title":"SF Food Wars: The Essential New York Times Cookbook Brunch | KQED","description":"Highlights from SF Food Wars: Ultimate Potluck Cocktail Brunch with Amanda Hesser (a.k.a. the official West coast launch party for The Essential New York Times Cookbook)","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"18415 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=18415","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/08/sf-food-wars-the-essential-new-york-times-cookbook-brunch/","disqusTitle":"SF Food Wars: The Essential New York Times Cookbook Brunch","path":"/bayareabites/18415/sf-food-wars-the-essential-new-york-times-cookbook-brunch","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/2010_10_sffoodwars-20.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/2010_10_sffoodwars-20.jpg\" alt=\"SF Food Wars_Richie Nakano, Hapa Ramen \" title=\"SF Food Wars_Richie Nakano, Hapa Ramen \" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18420\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Richie Nakano (Hapa Ramen) plating Ricotta Crostini with Butternut Squash\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What was that warm tingling sensation glowing from the back of my throat? Was it my imagination, or did my pulse just quicken a touch? I retraced my steps to \u003cstrong>Richie Nakano\u003c/strong> (\u003ca href=\"http://haparamensf.com/\">Hapa Ramen\u003c/a>) and shot him a quizzical look. \"You felt it, huh?\" he said, reading my mind. Yes, Richie. I felt it. What did I just eat?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh you know, your standard crostini, spiked with nicotine. Nakano's dish started out innocent enough: toasted slices of crusty bread topped with fresh \u003ca href=\"http://www.strausfamilycreamery.com/\">Straus Family Creamery\u003c/a> \u003cstrong>ricotta\u003c/strong> made that morning, and \u003cstrong>butternut squash\u003c/strong> seasoned with thyme and oregano. Here's where it gets interesting. He roasted the squash over \u003cstrong>tobacco leaves\u003c/strong>. Sourced from \u003ca href=\"http://www.happyquailfarms.com/\">Happy Quail Farms\u003c/a>, the leaves are typically used to wrap cigars. Used for cooking…the result is an interesting, sweet, smoky flavor, with some interesting physical reactions. Nakano made sure not to put too much of the butternut squash on each crostini (and don't worry, this was a 21+ event). He did warn that if trying this innovative method at home and you're tasting a lot as you cook, be careful that your heart doesn't explode.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/2010_10_sffoodwars-7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/2010_10_sffoodwars-7.jpg\" alt=\"Amanda Hesser\" title=\"Amanda Hesser\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18419\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Amanda Hesser, author of The Essential New York Times Cookbook (Photo Credit: \u003ca href=\"http://norecipes.com/\">Marc Matsumoto\u003c/a>)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hapa Ramen was just one of the 11 restaurants who participated in Sunday's \u003ca href=\"http://sffoodwars.com/nyt/\">SF Food Wars: Ultimate Potluck Cocktail Brunch\u003c/a> edition with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/07/interview-with-amanda-hesser-the-essential-new-york-times-cookbook/\">Amanda Hesser\u003c/a>. The sold-out event was the official West coast launch party for \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0393061035/kqedorg-20\">The Essential New York Times Cookbook\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. Hesser spent six years cooking her way through the \u003cem>New York Times's\u003c/em> recipe archive, testing more than 1,400 recipes from across a 150-year period. For the potluck brunch, each local chef prepared a \u003ca href=\"http://www.flickr.com/photos/sffoodwars/5147208310/lightbox/\">dish\u003c/a> inspired by recipes from the cookbook. Here are a few highlights:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/2010_10_sffoodwars-5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/2010_10_sffoodwars-5.jpg\" alt=\"Beet Tzatzkiki & Smoked Trout Lettuce Cups_Starbelly\" title=\"Beet Tzatzkiki & Smoked Trout Lettuce Cups_Starbelly\" width=\"500\" height=\"259\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18418\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Beet Tzatzkiki & Smoked Trout Lettuce Cups by Adam Timney, Starbelly (Photo Credit: \u003ca href=\"http://norecipes.com/\">Marc Matsumoto\u003c/a>)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This impossibly pink \u003cstrong>Beet Tzatzkiki\u003c/strong> \u003cem>(page 89)\u003c/em> from \u003cstrong>Adam Timney\u003c/strong> at \u003ca href=\"http://starbellysf.com/\">Starbelly\u003c/a> was just what we needed on this rainy gray afternoon. Made with thick, creamy, Greek-style yogurt, the beet dip was sweet and tangy, and served with a spoonful of smoked trout and a little mint in a crispy lettuce cup. This was one light, refreshing, and well-balanced bite. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/eggs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/eggs.jpg\" alt=\"Poached Eggs_Aziza\" title=\"Poached Eggs_Aziza\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18421\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Poached Eggs by Mourad Lahlou & Louis Maldonado, Aziza (Photo Credit: \u003ca href=\"http://norecipes.com/\">Marc Matsumoto\u003c/a>)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a> outdid itself with three solid dishes from \u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>Louis Maldonado\u003c/strong>, and \u003cstrong>Melissa Chou\u003c/strong>. Their take on \u003cstrong>Poached Eggs with Date-Chorizo Paste\u003c/strong> \u003cem>(page 636)\u003c/em> was beautifully presented in an eggshell. Composed of a soft-poached egg layered with a date-chorizo mixture and topped with some creamy crème fraiche foam, the flavors had the familiar feel of a hearty \u003cem>huevos rancheros\u003c/em> brunch even though the aesthetic was more refined. I especially loved the play between the spicy, meaty chorizo and the molasses-like pureed dates. Rather than accenting the dish with truffle oil, as recommended in the original recipe, the chefs bumped up the flavor with a pop of citrus zest in the filling and tied it all together with the soft, airy creaminess of the crème fraiche. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/2010_10_sffoodwars-1_marc.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/2010_10_sffoodwars-1_marc.jpg\" alt=\"Joyce Goldstein's Pickled Salmon_Aziza\" title=\"Joyce Goldstein's Pickled Salmon_Aziza\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18416\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Joyce Goldstein's Pickled Salmon by Mourad Lahlou & Louis Maldonado, Aziza (Photo Credit: \u003ca href=\"http://norecipes.com/\">Marc Matsumoto\u003c/a>)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Joyce Goldstein's Pickled Salmon\u003c/strong> \u003cem>(page 404)\u003c/em> was presented in pretty hors d'oeuvre form with the pickled salmon served in a mousse-like consistency accompanied by delicately sliced cucumbers and pickled onions over dainty squares of pumpernickel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/2010_10_sffoodwars-2_marc.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/2010_10_sffoodwars-2_marc.jpg\" alt=\"Banana Cream Pie_Aziza\" title=\"Banana Cream Pie_Aziza\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-18417\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Banana Cream Pie by Melissa Chou, Aziza (Photo Credit: \u003ca href=\"http://norecipes.com/\">Marc Matsumoto\u003c/a>)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I adored pastry chef \u003cstrong>Melissa Chou's\u003c/strong> sophisticated take on \u003cstrong>Banana Cream Pie\u003c/strong> \u003cem>(page 863)\u003c/em>. It started with a buttery, flaky pie crust round, topped with vanilla-specked cream, slices of banana, and a sprinkling of oatmeal crisp. A garnish of some dark chocolate and mocha cream was the perfect addition that graduated this dessert from finishing school. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unlike other SF Food Wars, this event was a non-competitive tasting event so no one officially took home the crown. As far as I'm concerned though, after eating my way through these creative dishes, I'm the real winner.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/18415/sf-food-wars-the-essential-new-york-times-cookbook-brunch","authors":["5037"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_50"],"tags":["bayareabites_8493","bayareabites_595","bayareabites_4045","bayareabites_3658","bayareabites_8499","bayareabites_8500"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_14094":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_14094","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"14094","score":null,"sort":[1276095623000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"starchefs-rising-stars-revue","title":"StarChefs.com's Rising Stars Revue","publishDate":1276095623,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/Group-Shot-Ghiradelli-Square.jpg\" alt=\"2010 SF Bay Area Rising Star Award Winners\" title=\"2010 SF Bay Area Rising Star Award Winners\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14096\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>2010 San Francisco Bay Area Rising Star Award Winners\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/rising_stars/2010/san-francisco/index.shtml\">Rising Stars Revue\u003c/a> is back in SF this year with an awards ceremony and walk-around tasting gala to be held on \u003cstrong>Wednesday, June 16th\u003c/strong>, at Ghirardelli Square. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/A16_Chef-Liza-Shaw.jpg\" alt=\"Liza Shaw's Roasted Sardines and Minted Pea Bruschetta\" title=\"Liza Shaw's Roasted Sardines and Minted Pea Bruschetta\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14162\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Liza Shaw's (A16) Roasted Sardines and Minted Pea Bruschetta with Pickled Onions, presented by restaurateur Shelley Lindgren\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hosted by Gary Danko chef de cuisine, \u003cstrong>Martin Brock\u003c/strong>, the tasting gala will feature signature savory dishes, desserts and cocktails presented by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/features/editors_dish/rising_stars/2010/san-francisco-bay-area/index.shtml\">14 Rising Stars\u003c/a>. Check out this year's winners and the tantalizing dishes they plan on making for the gala:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CHEFS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Matthew Accarrino\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.spqrsf.com/\">SPQR\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nBone Marrow Sformatino, Smoked Bacon, and Onions\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>John Paul Carmona\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nBoudin Blanc, Dates, and Wild Watercress\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maximilian DiMare\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.woodtavern.net/\">Wood Tavern\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nCrispy Pork Belly with Bacon, Red Lentil Ragout, and Poached Egg\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Louis Maldonado\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nMarinated Striped Bass, Petrossian Caviar, Green Strawberries, and Brown Rice\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Thomas McNaughton\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://flourandwater.com/\">flour + water\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nRavioli Doppio of Pork and Pea\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Scott Nishiyama\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cheztj.com/\">Chez TJ\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nMoulard Duck Foie Gras “Neige,” Blackberry, Cashew, and House-Made Mustard Toast\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>PASTRY CHEFS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Melissa Chou\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nCrème Fraîche Panna Cotta with Plum Soup\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Catherine Schimenti\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.michaelmina.net/\">Michael Mina\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nApricot Mousse, Cherry Sorbet, and Lemon Verbena\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>MIXOLOGISTS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Erick Castro\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.rickhousebar.com/\">Rickhouse\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nStatesman\u003cbr>\nThe Lusty Maritime Punch, featuring Highland Park Single Malt Scotch Whiskey\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Brian MacGregor\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.jardiniere.com/\">Jardinière\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTippler’s Delight\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SOMMELIER\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Sarah Valor\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nWine pairings with each chef’s dish\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>HOTEL CHEF\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Josh Thomsen\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.claremontresort.com/dining.shtml\">The Claremont Hotel Club & Spa\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nLaura Chenel Goat Cheese-Potato Terrine with Slow-Roasted Baby Beets and Aged Balsamic Syrup\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>RESTAURANT CONCEPT\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Joshua Skenes\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.saisonsf.com/\">Saison\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nLittle Roots Braised with Bonito, Caramelized Shoots, Flowers, and Leaves\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>RESTAURATEUR\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Shelley Lindgren\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.a16sf.com/\">A16\u003c/a> & \u003ca href=\"http://www.spqrsf.com/\">SPQR\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nRoasted Sardines and Minted Pea Bruschetta with Pickled Onions\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>******\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>HOST CHEF\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Martin Brock\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.garydanko.com/\">Gary Danko\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nCured New Zealand King Salmon with Jicama, Lotus Root Chips, and Curry Remoulade\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>VIP HOST CHEF\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>JW Foster\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fairmont.com/sanfrancisco/GuestServices/Restaurants\">The Fairmont San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPetrossian White Sturgeon Caviar with Champagne-Poached Red Torpedo Onion Relish, Butterball Pomme Chip, Charred Citrus, and Crème Fraîche\u003cbr>\nHouse Cold Smoked New Zealand Greenshell™ Mussel with Parsnip Frites, Santa Cruz Heirloom Tomato and Sonoma Riesling Consommé, and Asian Pear and Fennel Salad\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/joshua-skenes-dish.jpg\" alt=\"Joshua Skenes's Little Roots with Shoots and Leaves\" title=\"Joshua Skenes's Little Roots with Shoots and Leaves\" width=\"500\" height=\"335\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14097\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Joshua Skenes’s (Saison): Little Roots with Caramelized Shoots and Leaves\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Rising Star Awards recognize up-and-coming chefs, pastry chefs, sommeliers and mixologists from around the country who represent future leaders of the national culinary scene. \u003ca href=\"http://starchefs.com/\">StarChefs.com\u003c/a>, online magazine to foodservice industry insiders since 1995, chooses only four American cities in which to name Rising Stars each year -- this year, they chose LA, SF, NYC and Washington, DC. Candidates are nominated by \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/rising_stars/2007/sf/html/index.shtml\">previous SF winners\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/about_us/html/chef_advisory_board.shtml\">StarChefs Advisory Board\u003c/a> (which includes the likes of \u003cstrong>Daniel Boulud\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>Jean-Georges Vongerichten\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>Bobby Flay\u003c/strong>, and \u003cstrong>Todd English\u003c/strong>). Winners are chosen by the StarChefs editorial team. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More than 90 San Francisco Bay Area candidates were considered via in-person tastings and interviews. \"A new breed of young culinary professionals is defining the Bay Area dining scene, taking it beyond simply sourcing the best ingredients and championing the sustainability movement,\" said Antoinette Bruno, chief executive officer and editor-in-chief of StarChefs.com. \"They are true artisans and craftspeople.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/catherine-schimenti-dish.jpg\" alt=\"Catherine Schimenti's Apricot Mousse and Cherry Sorbet\" title=\"Catherine Schimenti's Apricot Mousse and Cherry Sorbet\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14095\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Catherine Schimenti’s (Michael Mina) Apricot Mousse, Cherry Sorbet, and Lemon Verbena\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/rising_stars/2010/san-francisco/index.shtml\">StarChefs.com’s Rising Stars Revue\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nWednesday, June 16, 2010\u003cbr>\n7:30-10:00 pm\u003cbr>\nGhirardelli Square, SF \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Tickets for the Rising Stars Revue are $95 per person; VIP tickets are $150 and include a pre-event reception with Champagne and Petrossian Caviar. A portion of the proceeds will go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>******\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Try your hand at \u003cstrong>Melissa Chou’s\u003c/strong> stellar dessert. Elegant, light, and refreshing -- just the thing to wow your dinner guests at your next summer festa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/melissa-chou-dish.jpg\" alt=\"Melissa Chou's Goat Yogurt Panna Cotta \" title=\"Melissa Chou's Goat Yogurt Panna Cotta \" width=\"500\" height=\"328\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14099\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Melissa Chou’s (Aziza) Goat Yogurt Panna Cotta with Rose Gelee, Strawberry Merengue, Compressed Green Strawberries, Mint, Hibiscus Soup\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crème Fraîche Panna Cotta with Plum Soup\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Recipe courtesy of Melissa Chou, pastry chef of Aziza (adapted from her StarChefs award-winning dish)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 12\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Plum Soup Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 pounds plums\u003cbr>\n1 cup sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1.\tRough chop plums and place into a large pot (include pits). Add sugar and enough water to cover the plums generously (about 10 cups). Place a piece of parchment on the surface of the liquid and cook on medium high heat for about an hour, occasionally stirring, but not crushing the plums.\u003cbr>\n2.\tSet a strainer over a large bowl and pour in the soup. Simply allow the soup to drain out, but do not press on the plums or the soup will become cloudy. You should have about 6 cups soup.\u003cbr>\n3.\tReduce the soup until you have about 4 cups. Adjust sugar to taste. Chill and reserve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crème Fraîche Panna Cotta Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 cups crème fraîche\u003cbr>\n¾ cups cream\u003cbr>\n6 tablespoons sugar\u003cbr>\n1 ½ teaspoons gelatin powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1.\tDissolve the gelatin in a generous tablespoon of water. Meanwhile, gently heat the cream with the sugar in a small pot over medium low heat.\u003cbr>\n2.\tCut the gelatin into cubes and when the cream begins to simmer, remove from heat and add the gelatin. Whisk until fully dissolved. Whisk in the creme fraiche. Strain and pour into about 12 lightly oiled 2 ounce timbale molds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Garnishes:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nStrawberries, cut lengthwise into sixths\u003cbr>\nMint chiffonade\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>To serve:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1.\tGently run the tip of a small knife around the edge of the panna cotta. Using your fingers, gently pull the panna cotta away from the side of the mold and invert into a shallow dessert bowl.\u003cbr>\n2.\tGarnish with the strawberries and mint. Pour in about ¼ cup of soup and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>(All photos courtesy of StarChefs.com)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"A preview of StarChefs.com's Rising Stars awards and tasting gala, and Melissa Chou's summer dessert recipe for Creme Fraiche Panna Cotta with Plum Soup.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1276061389,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":41,"wordCount":972},"headData":{"title":"StarChefs.com's Rising Stars Revue | KQED","description":"A preview of StarChefs.com's Rising Stars awards and tasting gala, and Melissa Chou's summer dessert recipe for Creme Fraiche Panna Cotta with Plum Soup.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"14094 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=14094","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/06/09/starchefs-rising-stars-revue/","disqusTitle":"StarChefs.com's Rising Stars Revue","path":"/bayareabites/14094/starchefs-rising-stars-revue","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/Group-Shot-Ghiradelli-Square.jpg\" alt=\"2010 SF Bay Area Rising Star Award Winners\" title=\"2010 SF Bay Area Rising Star Award Winners\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14096\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>2010 San Francisco Bay Area Rising Star Award Winners\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/rising_stars/2010/san-francisco/index.shtml\">Rising Stars Revue\u003c/a> is back in SF this year with an awards ceremony and walk-around tasting gala to be held on \u003cstrong>Wednesday, June 16th\u003c/strong>, at Ghirardelli Square. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/A16_Chef-Liza-Shaw.jpg\" alt=\"Liza Shaw's Roasted Sardines and Minted Pea Bruschetta\" title=\"Liza Shaw's Roasted Sardines and Minted Pea Bruschetta\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14162\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Liza Shaw's (A16) Roasted Sardines and Minted Pea Bruschetta with Pickled Onions, presented by restaurateur Shelley Lindgren\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hosted by Gary Danko chef de cuisine, \u003cstrong>Martin Brock\u003c/strong>, the tasting gala will feature signature savory dishes, desserts and cocktails presented by the \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/features/editors_dish/rising_stars/2010/san-francisco-bay-area/index.shtml\">14 Rising Stars\u003c/a>. Check out this year's winners and the tantalizing dishes they plan on making for the gala:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>CHEFS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Matthew Accarrino\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.spqrsf.com/\">SPQR\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nBone Marrow Sformatino, Smoked Bacon, and Onions\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>John Paul Carmona\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nBoudin Blanc, Dates, and Wild Watercress\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maximilian DiMare\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.woodtavern.net/\">Wood Tavern\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nCrispy Pork Belly with Bacon, Red Lentil Ragout, and Poached Egg\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Louis Maldonado\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nMarinated Striped Bass, Petrossian Caviar, Green Strawberries, and Brown Rice\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Thomas McNaughton\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://flourandwater.com/\">flour + water\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nRavioli Doppio of Pork and Pea\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Scott Nishiyama\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.cheztj.com/\">Chez TJ\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nMoulard Duck Foie Gras “Neige,” Blackberry, Cashew, and House-Made Mustard Toast\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>PASTRY CHEFS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Melissa Chou\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/\">Aziza\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nCrème Fraîche Panna Cotta with Plum Soup\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Catherine Schimenti\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.michaelmina.net/\">Michael Mina\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nApricot Mousse, Cherry Sorbet, and Lemon Verbena\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>MIXOLOGISTS\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Erick Castro\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.rickhousebar.com/\">Rickhouse\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nStatesman\u003cbr>\nThe Lusty Maritime Punch, featuring Highland Park Single Malt Scotch Whiskey\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Brian MacGregor\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.jardiniere.com/\">Jardinière\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTippler’s Delight\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>SOMMELIER\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Sarah Valor\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.commisrestaurant.com/\">Commis\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nWine pairings with each chef’s dish\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>HOTEL CHEF\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Josh Thomsen\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.claremontresort.com/dining.shtml\">The Claremont Hotel Club & Spa\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nLaura Chenel Goat Cheese-Potato Terrine with Slow-Roasted Baby Beets and Aged Balsamic Syrup\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>RESTAURANT CONCEPT\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Joshua Skenes\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.saisonsf.com/\">Saison\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nLittle Roots Braised with Bonito, Caramelized Shoots, Flowers, and Leaves\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>RESTAURATEUR\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Shelley Lindgren\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.a16sf.com/\">A16\u003c/a> & \u003ca href=\"http://www.spqrsf.com/\">SPQR\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nRoasted Sardines and Minted Pea Bruschetta with Pickled Onions\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>******\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>HOST CHEF\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Martin Brock\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.garydanko.com/\">Gary Danko\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nCured New Zealand King Salmon with Jicama, Lotus Root Chips, and Curry Remoulade\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>VIP HOST CHEF\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>JW Foster\u003c/strong>, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fairmont.com/sanfrancisco/GuestServices/Restaurants\">The Fairmont San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nPetrossian White Sturgeon Caviar with Champagne-Poached Red Torpedo Onion Relish, Butterball Pomme Chip, Charred Citrus, and Crème Fraîche\u003cbr>\nHouse Cold Smoked New Zealand Greenshell™ Mussel with Parsnip Frites, Santa Cruz Heirloom Tomato and Sonoma Riesling Consommé, and Asian Pear and Fennel Salad\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/joshua-skenes-dish.jpg\" alt=\"Joshua Skenes's Little Roots with Shoots and Leaves\" title=\"Joshua Skenes's Little Roots with Shoots and Leaves\" width=\"500\" height=\"335\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14097\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Joshua Skenes’s (Saison): Little Roots with Caramelized Shoots and Leaves\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Rising Star Awards recognize up-and-coming chefs, pastry chefs, sommeliers and mixologists from around the country who represent future leaders of the national culinary scene. \u003ca href=\"http://starchefs.com/\">StarChefs.com\u003c/a>, online magazine to foodservice industry insiders since 1995, chooses only four American cities in which to name Rising Stars each year -- this year, they chose LA, SF, NYC and Washington, DC. Candidates are nominated by \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/rising_stars/2007/sf/html/index.shtml\">previous SF winners\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/about_us/html/chef_advisory_board.shtml\">StarChefs Advisory Board\u003c/a> (which includes the likes of \u003cstrong>Daniel Boulud\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>Jean-Georges Vongerichten\u003c/strong>, \u003cstrong>Bobby Flay\u003c/strong>, and \u003cstrong>Todd English\u003c/strong>). Winners are chosen by the StarChefs editorial team. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>More than 90 San Francisco Bay Area candidates were considered via in-person tastings and interviews. \"A new breed of young culinary professionals is defining the Bay Area dining scene, taking it beyond simply sourcing the best ingredients and championing the sustainability movement,\" said Antoinette Bruno, chief executive officer and editor-in-chief of StarChefs.com. \"They are true artisans and craftspeople.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/catherine-schimenti-dish.jpg\" alt=\"Catherine Schimenti's Apricot Mousse and Cherry Sorbet\" title=\"Catherine Schimenti's Apricot Mousse and Cherry Sorbet\" width=\"500\" height=\"332\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14095\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Catherine Schimenti’s (Michael Mina) Apricot Mousse, Cherry Sorbet, and Lemon Verbena\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/rising_stars/2010/san-francisco/index.shtml\">StarChefs.com’s Rising Stars Revue\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nWednesday, June 16, 2010\u003cbr>\n7:30-10:00 pm\u003cbr>\nGhirardelli Square, SF \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Tickets for the Rising Stars Revue are $95 per person; VIP tickets are $150 and include a pre-event reception with Champagne and Petrossian Caviar. A portion of the proceeds will go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a>\u003c/em>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>******\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Try your hand at \u003cstrong>Melissa Chou’s\u003c/strong> stellar dessert. Elegant, light, and refreshing -- just the thing to wow your dinner guests at your next summer festa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/06/melissa-chou-dish.jpg\" alt=\"Melissa Chou's Goat Yogurt Panna Cotta \" title=\"Melissa Chou's Goat Yogurt Panna Cotta \" width=\"500\" height=\"328\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14099\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Melissa Chou’s (Aziza) Goat Yogurt Panna Cotta with Rose Gelee, Strawberry Merengue, Compressed Green Strawberries, Mint, Hibiscus Soup\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crème Fraîche Panna Cotta with Plum Soup\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Recipe courtesy of Melissa Chou, pastry chef of Aziza (adapted from her StarChefs award-winning dish)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 12\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Plum Soup Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n4 pounds plums\u003cbr>\n1 cup sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1.\tRough chop plums and place into a large pot (include pits). Add sugar and enough water to cover the plums generously (about 10 cups). Place a piece of parchment on the surface of the liquid and cook on medium high heat for about an hour, occasionally stirring, but not crushing the plums.\u003cbr>\n2.\tSet a strainer over a large bowl and pour in the soup. Simply allow the soup to drain out, but do not press on the plums or the soup will become cloudy. You should have about 6 cups soup.\u003cbr>\n3.\tReduce the soup until you have about 4 cups. Adjust sugar to taste. Chill and reserve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crème Fraîche Panna Cotta Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 cups crème fraîche\u003cbr>\n¾ cups cream\u003cbr>\n6 tablespoons sugar\u003cbr>\n1 ½ teaspoons gelatin powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1.\tDissolve the gelatin in a generous tablespoon of water. Meanwhile, gently heat the cream with the sugar in a small pot over medium low heat.\u003cbr>\n2.\tCut the gelatin into cubes and when the cream begins to simmer, remove from heat and add the gelatin. Whisk until fully dissolved. Whisk in the creme fraiche. Strain and pour into about 12 lightly oiled 2 ounce timbale molds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Garnishes:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nStrawberries, cut lengthwise into sixths\u003cbr>\nMint chiffonade\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>To serve:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1.\tGently run the tip of a small knife around the edge of the panna cotta. Using your fingers, gently pull the panna cotta away from the side of the mold and invert into a shallow dessert bowl.\u003cbr>\n2.\tGarnish with the strawberries and mint. Pour in about ¼ cup of soup and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>(All photos courtesy of StarChefs.com)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/14094/starchefs-rising-stars-revue","authors":["5037"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_595","bayareabites_4176","bayareabites_2566","bayareabites_4175","bayareabites_4177","bayareabites_4178","bayareabites_4174","bayareabites_4173"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? 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But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! 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And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. 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