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Support Us'","publishDate":1518718123,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Oakland is a city that's rapidly gentrifying, shedding much of its African-American population along the way. The California city, which was 47 percent black in 1980, is now divided roughly into a quarter each of black, white, Asian and Hispanic residents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sense of the city's changing identity has ended up helping Adrian Henderson's business. He's co-owner of Kingston 11 Cuisine, a Caribbean restaurant in a neighborhood that's changed so much lately that it goes by the dual name of Koreatown Northgate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Here in Oakland, folks are seeing black folks being pushed out,\" Henderson says. \"We're a community-based restaurant, so people of color are supporting our business. Any black-owned business or restaurant is being over-supported now, which is great, right?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To help spread the word about which restaurants are in fact owned by African-Americans, Henderson participates in Bay Area Black Restaurant Week. Over the past couple of years, such promotions have spread to essentially every major city with a substantial African-American population, including Houston, Detroit, Charlotte, Atlanta and New Orleans, along with smaller cities such as Richmond, Va., and Madison, Wis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some of the restaurants that participate in black restaurant week want to remind African-American consumers that are conscientious with their dollars that they're there,\" says Marcia Chatelain, a Georgetown University historian who is working on a book about race and fast food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125065\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce.jpg\" alt=\"After four years on Main Street in Memphis, Tenn., DejaVu shut its doors in January but announced plans to reopen in a new location this spring. Manager Katrina Bolton said the city's Black Restaurant Week did bring in some new customers.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125065\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">After four years on Main Street in Memphis, Tenn., DejaVu shut its doors in January but announced plans to reopen in a new location this spring. Manager Katrina Bolton said the city's Black Restaurant Week did bring in some new customers. \u003ccite>(Alan Greenblatt for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During the promotions, diners can often receive multi-course meals at a discount. In some cities, however, it's simply a way of drawing attention to what's on offer all the time at black-owned restaurants, a pure exercise in branding and promotion. Chicago's version is going on \u003ca href=\"http://chiblackrestaurantweek.com/\">this week\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"http://www.baltimoresun.com/entertainment/dining/baltimore-diner-blog/bs-fo-black-restaurant-challenge-20180123-story.html\">Baltimore's Black Restaurant Challenge\u003c/a> is continuing throughout most of February. Other cities will follow course throughout the spring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea seems to have spread around the country largely through social media, with local events sponsored variously by public relations consultants, a wine distributor, a radio station and the restaurants themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lauran Smith, the organizer of Chicago Black Restaurant Week, works as a public school guidance counselor. \"For me personally, it came from the fact that I really did not feel like I was celebrating my history enough, and food is something I like,\" she says. \"I created black restaurant week for Chicago to celebrate the fact that we have a lot of delicious businesses in our community.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spreading the word has worked. In 2016, eight restaurants participated in Memphis Black Restaurant Week, attracting a total of 3,135 customers. Last year, the number of restaurants grew to 14, which collectively saw more than 6,200 patrons walk in the door over the course of the week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't rocket science, says Cynthia Daniels, a social media manager who came up with the idea in Memphis. The city already held celebrations for nearly every other type of food — Italian, Mexican, barbecue. HM Dessert Lounge, the black-owned restaurant she was working with, didn't have a marketing budget. By banding together with others, the event was able to draw a considerable amount of publicity, which has also been the case in other cities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125066\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104.jpg\" alt=\"This tempting row of black forest cupcakes was available at SweetArt, a combination bakery and gallery in St. Louis, that participated in Black Restaurant Week last year.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125066\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This tempting row of black forest cupcakes was available at SweetArt, a combination bakery and gallery in St. Louis, that participated in Black Restaurant Week last year. \u003ccite>(Alan Greenblatt for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"When black restaurant week started, we were new, so it gave us a lot of exposure,\" says Terrence Callicutt, an owner of Scoops Parlor, a Memphis ice cream shop that also serves sandwiches and crepes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The type of restaurants that are included in various cities range from takeout joints that serve fried fish and chicken to high-end establishments such as the 40/40 Club in Manhattan, a lounge co-owned by hip hop mogul Jay Z.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Overall, African-Americans lag when it comes to running restaurants. Blacks make up 13 percent of the population, but only 8 percent of restaurant owners and the same share of restaurant managers, according to the National Restaurant Association.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are African-Americans who are celebrity chefs, such as Carla Hall and Pat Neely. In general, however, blacks often struggle to come up with the capital necessary to open and run restaurants, in part due to the legacy of lack of wealth formation among African-Americans and ongoing discrimination. \"Most black restaurant owners, they take their life savings, open the restaurants and hope for the best,\" Daniels says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Black ownership of restaurants, along with other types of businesses, was often more robust during the Jim Crow era of segregation, at least in some cities. Black-owned businesses served black customers that white owners could not or would not. \"There have been black-owned restaurants as long as there have been racially segregated neighborhoods,\" says Sharon Zukin, a sociologist at Brooklyn College.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Black restaurants provided important meeting places during the civil rights era. Paschal's Motor Lodge and Restaurant in Atlanta was a regular gathering spot for Martin Luther King and allied activists. \"If you wanted to know what was going on, that's where most of the discussion ... and where much of the planning was taking place,\" Andrew Young, a King aide who went on to become mayor of Atlanta, \u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/style/paschals-once-a-civil-rights-landmark-is-in-tatters/2011/07/25/gIQAY5xFUJ_story.html?utm_term=.de4110a390d0\">told\u003c/a> \u003cem>The Washington Post\u003c/em> in 2011.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Following passage of the 1964 Civil Rights Act, blacks could eat at the lunch counters or restaurants of their choice, no longer restricted to places in their neighborhoods. Roughly around the same time, the construction of interstate highways tore through many traditionally black urban centers, displacing residents and disrupting business. And the rise of fast-food chains didn't help local restaurateurs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There was a real clear downfall in black restaurant ownership after Jim Crow ended,\" says Angela Jill Cooley, the author of \u003cem>To Live and Dine in Dixie: The Evolution of Urban Food Culture in the Jim Crow South\u003c/em>. \"Black diners had different options then. They didn't necessarily have to stay in their 'race businesses,' as they would have called them at the time.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Blacks remain the most underrepresented racial or ethnic group when it comes to overall business ownership, according to a working paper by University of California, Santa Cruz economist \u003ca href=\"https://people.ucsc.edu/~rfairlie/\">Robert Fairlie.\u003c/a> It continues to be harder for them to get credit to start restaurants. It's common for African-Americans who complete culinary training to go into catering, which has far less overhead than restaurants that require large floor spaces and staffs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125063\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1998px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e.jpg\" alt=\"Thromentta Anderson, the owner of Pass Da Peas in northwest Milwaukee likes to greet customers by name and give them tokens toward free drinks. But he was glad to see new faces during Black Restaurant Week.\" width=\"1998\" height=\"1499\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125063\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e.jpg 1998w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1998px) 100vw, 1998px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thromentta Anderson, the owner of Pass Da Peas in northwest Milwaukee likes to greet customers by name and give them tokens toward free drinks. But he was glad to see new faces during Black Restaurant Week. \u003ccite>(Alan Greenblatt for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Black restaurant week organizers say that patrons don't always know about the options that do exist. Sometimes, even black food entrepreneurs weren't aware of how many colleagues they have in their cities. The events have brought them together in many cases to share information about trends and employees. \"It's made people want to start their own businesses,\" says Smith, the organizer of Chicago Black Restaurant Week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The main thing it's done is underscore the number of restaurants owned locally by African-Americans, in hopes of attracting more support. \"It highlights a strong need for African-Americans to support Africans-Americans in restaurants,\" says Todd Richards, a chef and cookbook author in Atlanta. \"We can't talk about discrimination if we're not going into our own restaurants and supporting them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, black restaurant owners are happy to welcome customers of all backgrounds. Pass Da Peas is a carryout spot in Milwaukee offering wings, catfish fingers and ribs. It doesn't typically see a lot of white customers, but black restaurant week brought more around.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I got a bunch of Caucasian brothers and sisters coming in, and I was taken aback,\" says owner Thromentta Anderson. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Blacks often struggle to raise capital to open and run restaurants, a legacy of discrimination. Over the past few years, promotions to help diners know which restaurants are black-owned have spread.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1518733098,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":1377},"headData":{"title":"Black Restaurant Week: Across U.S., Events Remind Diners, 'We're Here. Support Us' | KQED","description":"Blacks often struggle to raise capital to open and run restaurants, a legacy of discrimination. Over the past few years, promotions to help diners know which restaurants are black-owned have spread.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Black Restaurant Week: Across U.S., Events Remind Diners, 'We're Here. Support Us'","datePublished":"2018-02-15T18:08:43.000Z","dateModified":"2018-02-15T22:18:18.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"125062 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=125062","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/02/15/black-restaurant-week-across-u-s-events-remind-diners-were-here-support-us/","disqusTitle":"Black Restaurant Week: Across U.S., Events Remind Diners, 'We're Here. Support Us'","nprByline":"Alan Greenblatt, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"Alan Greenblatt for NPR","nprStoryId":"584373584","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=584373584&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2018/02/14/584373584/black-restaurant-week-across-u-s-events-remind-diners-we-re-here-support-us?ft=nprml&f=584373584","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 14 Feb 2018 21:26:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 14 Feb 2018 11:34:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 14 Feb 2018 21:26:25 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/125062/black-restaurant-week-across-u-s-events-remind-diners-were-here-support-us","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Oakland is a city that's rapidly gentrifying, shedding much of its African-American population along the way. The California city, which was 47 percent black in 1980, is now divided roughly into a quarter each of black, white, Asian and Hispanic residents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The sense of the city's changing identity has ended up helping Adrian Henderson's business. He's co-owner of Kingston 11 Cuisine, a Caribbean restaurant in a neighborhood that's changed so much lately that it goes by the dual name of Koreatown Northgate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Here in Oakland, folks are seeing black folks being pushed out,\" Henderson says. \"We're a community-based restaurant, so people of color are supporting our business. Any black-owned business or restaurant is being over-supported now, which is great, right?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To help spread the word about which restaurants are in fact owned by African-Americans, Henderson participates in Bay Area Black Restaurant Week. Over the past couple of years, such promotions have spread to essentially every major city with a substantial African-American population, including Houston, Detroit, Charlotte, Atlanta and New Orleans, along with smaller cities such as Richmond, Va., and Madison, Wis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some of the restaurants that participate in black restaurant week want to remind African-American consumers that are conscientious with their dollars that they're there,\" says Marcia Chatelain, a Georgetown University historian who is working on a book about race and fast food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125065\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce.jpg\" alt=\"After four years on Main Street in Memphis, Tenn., DejaVu shut its doors in January but announced plans to reopen in a new location this spring. Manager Katrina Bolton said the city's Black Restaurant Week did bring in some new customers.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125065\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030044_slide-27e7696f267dd3ebeafb977afb5d7714f3bd0cce-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">After four years on Main Street in Memphis, Tenn., DejaVu shut its doors in January but announced plans to reopen in a new location this spring. Manager Katrina Bolton said the city's Black Restaurant Week did bring in some new customers. \u003ccite>(Alan Greenblatt for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>During the promotions, diners can often receive multi-course meals at a discount. In some cities, however, it's simply a way of drawing attention to what's on offer all the time at black-owned restaurants, a pure exercise in branding and promotion. Chicago's version is going on \u003ca href=\"http://chiblackrestaurantweek.com/\">this week\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"http://www.baltimoresun.com/entertainment/dining/baltimore-diner-blog/bs-fo-black-restaurant-challenge-20180123-story.html\">Baltimore's Black Restaurant Challenge\u003c/a> is continuing throughout most of February. Other cities will follow course throughout the spring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea seems to have spread around the country largely through social media, with local events sponsored variously by public relations consultants, a wine distributor, a radio station and the restaurants themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lauran Smith, the organizer of Chicago Black Restaurant Week, works as a public school guidance counselor. \"For me personally, it came from the fact that I really did not feel like I was celebrating my history enough, and food is something I like,\" she says. \"I created black restaurant week for Chicago to celebrate the fact that we have a lot of delicious businesses in our community.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spreading the word has worked. In 2016, eight restaurants participated in Memphis Black Restaurant Week, attracting a total of 3,135 customers. Last year, the number of restaurants grew to 14, which collectively saw more than 6,200 patrons walk in the door over the course of the week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't rocket science, says Cynthia Daniels, a social media manager who came up with the idea in Memphis. The city already held celebrations for nearly every other type of food — Italian, Mexican, barbecue. HM Dessert Lounge, the black-owned restaurant she was working with, didn't have a marketing budget. By banding together with others, the event was able to draw a considerable amount of publicity, which has also been the case in other cities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125066\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104.jpg\" alt=\"This tempting row of black forest cupcakes was available at SweetArt, a combination bakery and gallery in St. Louis, that participated in Black Restaurant Week last year.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125066\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104-1180x786.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/p1030309_slide-980511b8a525c463e447262731ae45ecbb069104-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This tempting row of black forest cupcakes was available at SweetArt, a combination bakery and gallery in St. Louis, that participated in Black Restaurant Week last year. \u003ccite>(Alan Greenblatt for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"When black restaurant week started, we were new, so it gave us a lot of exposure,\" says Terrence Callicutt, an owner of Scoops Parlor, a Memphis ice cream shop that also serves sandwiches and crepes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The type of restaurants that are included in various cities range from takeout joints that serve fried fish and chicken to high-end establishments such as the 40/40 Club in Manhattan, a lounge co-owned by hip hop mogul Jay Z.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Overall, African-Americans lag when it comes to running restaurants. Blacks make up 13 percent of the population, but only 8 percent of restaurant owners and the same share of restaurant managers, according to the National Restaurant Association.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are African-Americans who are celebrity chefs, such as Carla Hall and Pat Neely. In general, however, blacks often struggle to come up with the capital necessary to open and run restaurants, in part due to the legacy of lack of wealth formation among African-Americans and ongoing discrimination. \"Most black restaurant owners, they take their life savings, open the restaurants and hope for the best,\" Daniels says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Black ownership of restaurants, along with other types of businesses, was often more robust during the Jim Crow era of segregation, at least in some cities. Black-owned businesses served black customers that white owners could not or would not. \"There have been black-owned restaurants as long as there have been racially segregated neighborhoods,\" says Sharon Zukin, a sociologist at Brooklyn College.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Black restaurants provided important meeting places during the civil rights era. Paschal's Motor Lodge and Restaurant in Atlanta was a regular gathering spot for Martin Luther King and allied activists. \"If you wanted to know what was going on, that's where most of the discussion ... and where much of the planning was taking place,\" Andrew Young, a King aide who went on to become mayor of Atlanta, \u003ca href=\"https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/style/paschals-once-a-civil-rights-landmark-is-in-tatters/2011/07/25/gIQAY5xFUJ_story.html?utm_term=.de4110a390d0\">told\u003c/a> \u003cem>The Washington Post\u003c/em> in 2011.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Following passage of the 1964 Civil Rights Act, blacks could eat at the lunch counters or restaurants of their choice, no longer restricted to places in their neighborhoods. Roughly around the same time, the construction of interstate highways tore through many traditionally black urban centers, displacing residents and disrupting business. And the rise of fast-food chains didn't help local restaurateurs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There was a real clear downfall in black restaurant ownership after Jim Crow ended,\" says Angela Jill Cooley, the author of \u003cem>To Live and Dine in Dixie: The Evolution of Urban Food Culture in the Jim Crow South\u003c/em>. \"Black diners had different options then. They didn't necessarily have to stay in their 'race businesses,' as they would have called them at the time.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Blacks remain the most underrepresented racial or ethnic group when it comes to overall business ownership, according to a working paper by University of California, Santa Cruz economist \u003ca href=\"https://people.ucsc.edu/~rfairlie/\">Robert Fairlie.\u003c/a> It continues to be harder for them to get credit to start restaurants. It's common for African-Americans who complete culinary training to go into catering, which has far less overhead than restaurants that require large floor spaces and staffs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_125063\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1998px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e.jpg\" alt=\"Thromentta Anderson, the owner of Pass Da Peas in northwest Milwaukee likes to greet customers by name and give them tokens toward free drinks. But he was glad to see new faces during Black Restaurant Week.\" width=\"1998\" height=\"1499\" class=\"size-full wp-image-125063\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e.jpg 1998w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/02/img_6401-f101e1d5e64da09541d11be75aac3b72c80b579e-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1998px) 100vw, 1998px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thromentta Anderson, the owner of Pass Da Peas in northwest Milwaukee likes to greet customers by name and give them tokens toward free drinks. But he was glad to see new faces during Black Restaurant Week. \u003ccite>(Alan Greenblatt for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Black restaurant week organizers say that patrons don't always know about the options that do exist. Sometimes, even black food entrepreneurs weren't aware of how many colleagues they have in their cities. The events have brought them together in many cases to share information about trends and employees. \"It's made people want to start their own businesses,\" says Smith, the organizer of Chicago Black Restaurant Week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The main thing it's done is underscore the number of restaurants owned locally by African-Americans, in hopes of attracting more support. \"It highlights a strong need for African-Americans to support Africans-Americans in restaurants,\" says Todd Richards, a chef and cookbook author in Atlanta. \"We can't talk about discrimination if we're not going into our own restaurants and supporting them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, black restaurant owners are happy to welcome customers of all backgrounds. Pass Da Peas is a carryout spot in Milwaukee offering wings, catfish fingers and ribs. It doesn't typically see a lot of white customers, but black restaurant week brought more around.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I got a bunch of Caucasian brothers and sisters coming in, and I was taken aback,\" says owner Thromentta Anderson. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/125062/black-restaurant-week-across-u-s-events-remind-diners-were-here-support-us","authors":["byline_bayareabites_125062"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_14326","bayareabites_16057"],"featImg":"bayareabites_125064","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_120369":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_120369","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"120369","score":null,"sort":[1504634537000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"a-black-food-historian-explores-his-bittersweet-connection-to-robert-e-lee","title":"A Black Food Historian Explores His Bittersweet Connection To Robert E. Lee","publishDate":1504634537,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Over the past few months, as the contentious ghost of Robert E. Lee galloped through the headlines, Southern food historian Michael W. Twitty's thoughts turned to the bittersweet connection his family shares with the Confederate general.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On April 9, 1865, Twitty's great-great grandfather, Elijah Mitchell, and his older brother, George, happened to be on a street in the village of Appomattox Court House, Va., when General Lee, in full dress uniform, exited the McLean House after surrendering to Union General Ulysses S. Grant. It didn't take long for the two teenage lads to grasp the import of that ceremonial tableau.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120375\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"When he was 15, Elijah Mitchell, Twitty's great-great-grandfather, saw General Robert E. Lee emerge from McLean House in Appomattox, Va., after surrendering to General Ulysses S. Grant. He was one of the first slaves to know that the war was over. His owner freed him immediately.\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120375\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85-160x189.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85-240x283.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85-375x442.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85-520x613.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When he was 15, Elijah Mitchell, Twitty's great-great-grandfather, saw General Robert E. Lee emerge from McLean House in Appomattox, Va., after surrendering to General Ulysses S. Grant. He was one of the first slaves to know that the war was over. His owner freed him immediately. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Michael Twitty)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"At that moment, as the Confederacy's 150-year mourning period began,\" writes Twitty in his new book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Cooking-Gene-Journey-African-American-Culinary/dp/0062379291\">The Cooking Gene\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, \"my great-great grandfather and his brother counted themselves among the first black people to find out that the long nightmare of American slavery — nearly three centuries in the making — was over. Their slaveholder, Blake Mitchell, immediately declared them free — even as they still held his horse in place, waiting for whatever was to come next.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Twitty's prose movingly captures this momentous and profoundly personal moment and provides a glimpse of the scope and tone of his deeply researched, sometimes rambling, but altogether fascinating book that braids personal memoir, genealogy and culinary excavation to tell the story of a whole people through the lineage of their food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food is Twitty's flag. \"They took our names, they took our gods, they took our religion but they didn't take our food,\" he says. His aim is twofold: to puzzle out \"a recipe of who I am and where I came from,\" and, in doing so, to document how his captive ancestors radically enriched the diet of the antebellum South. They did this both through the produce — rice, okra, peanuts, cowpeas — that came with them on those slave ships from Africa, and through their skills in creating an \"edible jazz\" of barbecue, fried chicken, jambalaya, feijoada, spicy peanut stews, crispy okra, rice pudding and innumerable other dishes from their impoverished pantries. They were exemplars of farm-to-table and nose-to-tail cooking long before these hip terms were even coined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Twitty's percussive phrase, the \"enslaved enslaved the palate of those who enslaved them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, as the vexed debate over Confederate monuments \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2017/08/16/us/confederate-monuments-removed.html?_r=0\">consumes the country\u003c/a>, Twitty's book makes for important reading. Food historians like Twitty, much like the groups rallying for and against the monuments, are enjoined in the battle of memory — in Twitty's case, the memory of who \"owns\" Southern food, and what role African Americans have in that commemoration. Twitty's frontline may be the kitchen rather than the traffic circle, but his subject is as viscerally intertwined with race as any Confederate monument.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Our influence across the South,\" he writes, \"conquered more territory than any Confederate army ever managed.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A ringing statement, for which unwitting support can be found from no less than the \u003cem>beau ideal\u003c/em> of the Confederacy. Lee, who loved his black cook's fried chicken, \u003ca href=\"http://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/making-sense-of-robert-e-lee-85017563/\">once said\u003c/a> that all he wanted was \"a Virginia farm — no end of cream and fresh butter — and fried chicken. Not one fried chicken or two — but unlimited fried chicken.\" Moreover, during the Union blockade, when the South faced starvation, Lee praised the cowpea (also called black-eyed pea or cornfield pea) as \"the only unfailing friend the Confederacy ever had.\" Ironically, it was the humble West African cowpea and the African peanut that kept Southerners fed when bread was scarce. \"Living proof that African civilization was part and parcel of Southern existence,\" says Twitty. \"They couldn't do it without us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of Twitty's projects is his \"Southern Discomfort Tour\" — a journey through the \"forgotten little Africa\" of the Old South. His approach is not that of a historian, but rather a \"historical interpreter\": He picks cotton, chops wood, works in rice fields and cooks for audiences in plantation kitchens while dressed in slave clothing to recreate what his ancestors had to endure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120378\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 341px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/image001_custom-a6b881c96f147b76bec9418b7b2e435bb0afd4cd-s700-c85.png\" alt='Twitty cooks in plantation kitchens to convey to others the story and legacy of African Americans in the South. His approach is not that of a historian, but rather a \"historical interpreter.\"' width=\"341\" height=\"454\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120378\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/image001_custom-a6b881c96f147b76bec9418b7b2e435bb0afd4cd-s700-c85.png 341w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/image001_custom-a6b881c96f147b76bec9418b7b2e435bb0afd4cd-s700-c85-160x213.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/image001_custom-a6b881c96f147b76bec9418b7b2e435bb0afd4cd-s700-c85-240x320.png 240w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 341px) 100vw, 341px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Twitty cooks in plantation kitchens to convey to others the story and legacy of African Americans in the South. His approach is not that of a historian, but rather a \"historical interpreter.\" \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Corey H. Weierke)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On one such trip to Virginia, Twitty cooked at Lee's birth home, Stratford Hall, an imposing brick manor with a commanding view of the Potomac. He says:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a big, old, cavernous kitchen. You could roast a whole ox in the fireplace if you wanted. The floor is all brick, so the cook could use the entire surface of the floor as a range. That brick floor will make your back ache and your feet feel like cement at the end of the day. Here I was, roasting chickens, making persimmon pudding, hot rolls, rabbit stew, oysters, and the light kept changing and getting darker and darker and the pots felt heavier and heavier. I'm in my interpreter's clothing — trousers, waistcoat, long shirt, kerchief — and caught between humidity and a December chill and it was the first time I really connected with the idea that not only was this not easy — it was tortuous.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there were the guests. A woman from the United Daughters of the Confederacy chose to pivot from an uncomfortable discussion on slavery to Stratford Hall's architectural details. The Daughters then went upstairs, and in Twitty's \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhxjC3XX54g\">incredulous words\u003c/a>, \"wept over the crib of Robert E. Lee and prayed over it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"At that moment,\" he says, \"I had to run, I had to go, I felt I might have a one-man slave revolt.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On another occasion, at a South Carolina plantation, when an elderly German observed that America needed to deal with slavery like Germany had dealt with the Holocaust, the room of older white Southerners cleared out. \"They couldn't take it,\" Twitty \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYE0dG80JTw&t=1844s\">said in an interview\u003c/a>. \"They were there for us to be happy and cook and create wonderful smells in the kitchen. I'm not indicting them — they were older, probably the same age as the German man, but fed completely different messages of power, race, identity and truth.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those messages also fueled the \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/KosherSoul/status/900570816487849984\">fusillade of tweets\u003c/a> that Twitty directed at President Donald Trump in response to the latter's tweet that removing statues was like ripping apart the country's history and culture. But Twitty also cautions that while toppling statues may be exhilarating, it may also be a simplistic show of justice. \"In my former town, Rockville, Maryland, they covered up the statue in honor of the Confederate solider the first time this debate had cultural currency,\" he says. \"And guess what? Systemic racism still exists. Honestly, maybe we should reverse it. It feels like we are eating the icing before the cake. Fight and demolish systemic racism and micro-aggressions and then celebrate by removing symbols of the old guard.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seeking \"culinary justice\" for African Americans is Twitty's contribution to this long fight. It's what propels his blog, \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/\">Afroculinaria.com\u003c/a>, what made him object to an article hailing a Southern white chef for \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/2016/03/23/dear-sean-we-need-to-talk/\">\"discovering\"\u003c/a> the African roots of Southern cuisine; and what prompted him to write an \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/2013/06/25/an-open-letter-to-paula-deen/\">open letter\u003c/a> to Georgia chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/06/27/196133579/racial-slur-puts-paula-deens-empire-at-risk\">Paula Deen\u003c/a> — he calls her \"a cousin, not a combatant\" — inviting her to discuss race over a shared meal at a plantation. \"The South,\" he wrote, \"isn't the birthplace or the natural home of America's racism. It has changed in many ways for the better, but now we have politicians and legislators trying to reverse the clock because they were horrified that a Black man got into the Oval Office. So we have a lot of work to do. I will sit anybody down at the same table, but they have to be willing to not go back to the patterns of the past. \u003cem>Sankofa \u003c/em>— in the words of my Akan ancestors: take the good from the past and move forward.\" His letter went viral, but Deen didn't respond.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As someone who is black, gay and Jewish, Twitty is emblematic of everything neo-Nazis rail against. His calm retort is that \"America is the only place on earth where I'm possible, and that is the dirty little secret behind these hate groups. They are here to take away the possibilities that America the Ideal represents.\" Undeterred by the Charlottesville riot, Twitty will soon \u003ca href=\"http://www.heritageharvestfestival.com/speakers/michael-w-twitty/\">be there\u003c/a>, cooking at the Monticello kitchen where Thomas Jefferson's enslaved \u003cem>chef de cuisine\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/10/17/449447335/behind-the-founding-foodie-a-french-trained-chef-bound-by-slavery\">James Hemings\u003c/a> once turned out gourmet confections. Hemings' legacy is as important to him as that of Elijah Mitchell, his great-great grandfather.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What happened to young Elijah? \"He got land from the Mitchells after being a free hand for a while and a domestic,\" says Twitty. \"He married twice and taught his wife and children to read and write. I'm really proud he valued education — as many Reconstruction-era black folk did — and he lived to a good old age and was a revered family man. He was handsome and smartly dressed in all the photographs of him. Not bad for a man who started life as a \u003cem>punkah\u003c/em> puller (\u003cem>punkah\u003c/em> is the Hindi word for fan), fanning white people in chains.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elijah Mitchell died in 1923, during Jim Crow, when Confederate statues were going up across the South. He probably never imagined that one day his great-great grandson would recall his life story against the backdrop of those statues coming down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\">Nina Martyris\u003c/a>\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003cem>is a journalist based in Knoxville, Tenn.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Michael Twitty's enslaved ancestors witnessed the Confederate general's surrender, the significance of which weaves through his new memoir as he seeks 'culinary justice' for African Americans.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1504634537,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":1678},"headData":{"title":"A Black Food Historian Explores His Bittersweet Connection To Robert E. Lee | KQED","description":"Michael Twitty's enslaved ancestors witnessed the Confederate general's surrender, the significance of which weaves through his new memoir as he seeks 'culinary justice' for African Americans.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"A Black Food Historian Explores His Bittersweet Connection To Robert E. Lee","datePublished":"2017-09-05T18:02:17.000Z","dateModified":"2017-09-05T18:02:17.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"120369 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=120369","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/09/05/a-black-food-historian-explores-his-bittersweet-connection-to-robert-e-lee/","disqusTitle":"A Black Food Historian Explores His Bittersweet Connection To Robert E. Lee","nprByline":"Nina Martyris, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"Courtesy of Michael Twitty","nprStoryId":"547562682","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=547562682&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/09/05/547562682/a-black-food-historian-explores-his-bittersweet-connection-to-robert-e-lee?ft=nprml&f=547562682","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 05 Sep 2017 07:00:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 05 Sep 2017 07:00:23 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 05 Sep 2017 08:23:07 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/120369/a-black-food-historian-explores-his-bittersweet-connection-to-robert-e-lee","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Over the past few months, as the contentious ghost of Robert E. Lee galloped through the headlines, Southern food historian Michael W. Twitty's thoughts turned to the bittersweet connection his family shares with the Confederate general.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On April 9, 1865, Twitty's great-great grandfather, Elijah Mitchell, and his older brother, George, happened to be on a street in the village of Appomattox Court House, Va., when General Lee, in full dress uniform, exited the McLean House after surrendering to Union General Ulysses S. Grant. It didn't take long for the two teenage lads to grasp the import of that ceremonial tableau.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120375\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85.jpg\" alt=\"When he was 15, Elijah Mitchell, Twitty's great-great-grandfather, saw General Robert E. Lee emerge from McLean House in Appomattox, Va., after surrendering to General Ulysses S. Grant. He was one of the first slaves to know that the war was over. His owner freed him immediately.\" width=\"300\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120375\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85-160x189.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85-240x283.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85-375x442.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/grandfather_custom-06341306883b7c5bd2c60ebc79878e04e3d56983-s700-c85-520x613.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When he was 15, Elijah Mitchell, Twitty's great-great-grandfather, saw General Robert E. Lee emerge from McLean House in Appomattox, Va., after surrendering to General Ulysses S. Grant. He was one of the first slaves to know that the war was over. His owner freed him immediately. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Michael Twitty)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"At that moment, as the Confederacy's 150-year mourning period began,\" writes Twitty in his new book, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Cooking-Gene-Journey-African-American-Culinary/dp/0062379291\">The Cooking Gene\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, \"my great-great grandfather and his brother counted themselves among the first black people to find out that the long nightmare of American slavery — nearly three centuries in the making — was over. Their slaveholder, Blake Mitchell, immediately declared them free — even as they still held his horse in place, waiting for whatever was to come next.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Twitty's prose movingly captures this momentous and profoundly personal moment and provides a glimpse of the scope and tone of his deeply researched, sometimes rambling, but altogether fascinating book that braids personal memoir, genealogy and culinary excavation to tell the story of a whole people through the lineage of their food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food is Twitty's flag. \"They took our names, they took our gods, they took our religion but they didn't take our food,\" he says. His aim is twofold: to puzzle out \"a recipe of who I am and where I came from,\" and, in doing so, to document how his captive ancestors radically enriched the diet of the antebellum South. They did this both through the produce — rice, okra, peanuts, cowpeas — that came with them on those slave ships from Africa, and through their skills in creating an \"edible jazz\" of barbecue, fried chicken, jambalaya, feijoada, spicy peanut stews, crispy okra, rice pudding and innumerable other dishes from their impoverished pantries. They were exemplars of farm-to-table and nose-to-tail cooking long before these hip terms were even coined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Twitty's percussive phrase, the \"enslaved enslaved the palate of those who enslaved them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, as the vexed debate over Confederate monuments \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2017/08/16/us/confederate-monuments-removed.html?_r=0\">consumes the country\u003c/a>, Twitty's book makes for important reading. Food historians like Twitty, much like the groups rallying for and against the monuments, are enjoined in the battle of memory — in Twitty's case, the memory of who \"owns\" Southern food, and what role African Americans have in that commemoration. Twitty's frontline may be the kitchen rather than the traffic circle, but his subject is as viscerally intertwined with race as any Confederate monument.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Our influence across the South,\" he writes, \"conquered more territory than any Confederate army ever managed.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A ringing statement, for which unwitting support can be found from no less than the \u003cem>beau ideal\u003c/em> of the Confederacy. Lee, who loved his black cook's fried chicken, \u003ca href=\"http://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/making-sense-of-robert-e-lee-85017563/\">once said\u003c/a> that all he wanted was \"a Virginia farm — no end of cream and fresh butter — and fried chicken. Not one fried chicken or two — but unlimited fried chicken.\" Moreover, during the Union blockade, when the South faced starvation, Lee praised the cowpea (also called black-eyed pea or cornfield pea) as \"the only unfailing friend the Confederacy ever had.\" Ironically, it was the humble West African cowpea and the African peanut that kept Southerners fed when bread was scarce. \"Living proof that African civilization was part and parcel of Southern existence,\" says Twitty. \"They couldn't do it without us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of Twitty's projects is his \"Southern Discomfort Tour\" — a journey through the \"forgotten little Africa\" of the Old South. His approach is not that of a historian, but rather a \"historical interpreter\": He picks cotton, chops wood, works in rice fields and cooks for audiences in plantation kitchens while dressed in slave clothing to recreate what his ancestors had to endure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_120378\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 341px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/image001_custom-a6b881c96f147b76bec9418b7b2e435bb0afd4cd-s700-c85.png\" alt='Twitty cooks in plantation kitchens to convey to others the story and legacy of African Americans in the South. His approach is not that of a historian, but rather a \"historical interpreter.\"' width=\"341\" height=\"454\" class=\"size-full wp-image-120378\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/image001_custom-a6b881c96f147b76bec9418b7b2e435bb0afd4cd-s700-c85.png 341w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/image001_custom-a6b881c96f147b76bec9418b7b2e435bb0afd4cd-s700-c85-160x213.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/09/image001_custom-a6b881c96f147b76bec9418b7b2e435bb0afd4cd-s700-c85-240x320.png 240w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 341px) 100vw, 341px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Twitty cooks in plantation kitchens to convey to others the story and legacy of African Americans in the South. His approach is not that of a historian, but rather a \"historical interpreter.\" \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Corey H. Weierke)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On one such trip to Virginia, Twitty cooked at Lee's birth home, Stratford Hall, an imposing brick manor with a commanding view of the Potomac. He says:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's a big, old, cavernous kitchen. You could roast a whole ox in the fireplace if you wanted. The floor is all brick, so the cook could use the entire surface of the floor as a range. That brick floor will make your back ache and your feet feel like cement at the end of the day. Here I was, roasting chickens, making persimmon pudding, hot rolls, rabbit stew, oysters, and the light kept changing and getting darker and darker and the pots felt heavier and heavier. I'm in my interpreter's clothing — trousers, waistcoat, long shirt, kerchief — and caught between humidity and a December chill and it was the first time I really connected with the idea that not only was this not easy — it was tortuous.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then there were the guests. A woman from the United Daughters of the Confederacy chose to pivot from an uncomfortable discussion on slavery to Stratford Hall's architectural details. The Daughters then went upstairs, and in Twitty's \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhxjC3XX54g\">incredulous words\u003c/a>, \"wept over the crib of Robert E. Lee and prayed over it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"At that moment,\" he says, \"I had to run, I had to go, I felt I might have a one-man slave revolt.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On another occasion, at a South Carolina plantation, when an elderly German observed that America needed to deal with slavery like Germany had dealt with the Holocaust, the room of older white Southerners cleared out. \"They couldn't take it,\" Twitty \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYE0dG80JTw&t=1844s\">said in an interview\u003c/a>. \"They were there for us to be happy and cook and create wonderful smells in the kitchen. I'm not indicting them — they were older, probably the same age as the German man, but fed completely different messages of power, race, identity and truth.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those messages also fueled the \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/KosherSoul/status/900570816487849984\">fusillade of tweets\u003c/a> that Twitty directed at President Donald Trump in response to the latter's tweet that removing statues was like ripping apart the country's history and culture. But Twitty also cautions that while toppling statues may be exhilarating, it may also be a simplistic show of justice. \"In my former town, Rockville, Maryland, they covered up the statue in honor of the Confederate solider the first time this debate had cultural currency,\" he says. \"And guess what? Systemic racism still exists. Honestly, maybe we should reverse it. It feels like we are eating the icing before the cake. Fight and demolish systemic racism and micro-aggressions and then celebrate by removing symbols of the old guard.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Seeking \"culinary justice\" for African Americans is Twitty's contribution to this long fight. It's what propels his blog, \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/\">Afroculinaria.com\u003c/a>, what made him object to an article hailing a Southern white chef for \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/2016/03/23/dear-sean-we-need-to-talk/\">\"discovering\"\u003c/a> the African roots of Southern cuisine; and what prompted him to write an \u003ca href=\"https://afroculinaria.com/2013/06/25/an-open-letter-to-paula-deen/\">open letter\u003c/a> to Georgia chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/06/27/196133579/racial-slur-puts-paula-deens-empire-at-risk\">Paula Deen\u003c/a> — he calls her \"a cousin, not a combatant\" — inviting her to discuss race over a shared meal at a plantation. \"The South,\" he wrote, \"isn't the birthplace or the natural home of America's racism. It has changed in many ways for the better, but now we have politicians and legislators trying to reverse the clock because they were horrified that a Black man got into the Oval Office. So we have a lot of work to do. I will sit anybody down at the same table, but they have to be willing to not go back to the patterns of the past. \u003cem>Sankofa \u003c/em>— in the words of my Akan ancestors: take the good from the past and move forward.\" His letter went viral, but Deen didn't respond.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As someone who is black, gay and Jewish, Twitty is emblematic of everything neo-Nazis rail against. His calm retort is that \"America is the only place on earth where I'm possible, and that is the dirty little secret behind these hate groups. They are here to take away the possibilities that America the Ideal represents.\" Undeterred by the Charlottesville riot, Twitty will soon \u003ca href=\"http://www.heritageharvestfestival.com/speakers/michael-w-twitty/\">be there\u003c/a>, cooking at the Monticello kitchen where Thomas Jefferson's enslaved \u003cem>chef de cuisine\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/10/17/449447335/behind-the-founding-foodie-a-french-trained-chef-bound-by-slavery\">James Hemings\u003c/a> once turned out gourmet confections. Hemings' legacy is as important to him as that of Elijah Mitchell, his great-great grandfather.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What happened to young Elijah? \"He got land from the Mitchells after being a free hand for a while and a domestic,\" says Twitty. \"He married twice and taught his wife and children to read and write. I'm really proud he valued education — as many Reconstruction-era black folk did — and he lived to a good old age and was a revered family man. He was handsome and smartly dressed in all the photographs of him. Not bad for a man who started life as a \u003cem>punkah\u003c/em> puller (\u003cem>punkah\u003c/em> is the Hindi word for fan), fanning white people in chains.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elijah Mitchell died in 1923, during Jim Crow, when Confederate statues were going up across the South. He probably never imagined that one day his great-great grandson would recall his life story against the backdrop of those statues coming down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ninamartyris.pressfolios.com/\">Nina Martyris\u003c/a>\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003cem>is a journalist based in Knoxville, Tenn.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/120369/a-black-food-historian-explores-his-bittersweet-connection-to-robert-e-lee","authors":["byline_bayareabites_120369"],"categories":["bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_2090"],"tags":["bayareabites_14326","bayareabites_15760","bayareabites_15647"],"featImg":"bayareabites_120370","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_117082":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_117082","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"117082","score":null,"sort":[1493748623000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"rosa-parks-pancake-recipe-helps-us-see-the-human-side-of-a-hero","title":"Rosa Parks' Pancake Recipe Helps Us See The Human Side Of A Hero","publishDate":1493748623,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>In 2015, after a 10-year legal battle, the Library of Congress released a trove of Rosa Parks' personal documents. Last year the papers were put online for the first time. They include postcards from the Rev. Martin Luther King Jr., lists of volunteers for the Montgomery Bus Boycott, and pages and pages of journals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Buried in the Parks collection is another document that doesn't have as much historical significance – but it got my attention. It's a pancake recipe, written on the back of an envelope.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first glance, Parks' recipe for \"Featherlite Pancakes\" seems little more than a charming footnote, especially because of the novelty of including peanut butter in pancake batter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as we find in this week's episode of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sporkful.com\">The Sporkful food podcast\u003c/a>, this recipe is actually a window into a time and place, and a person most of us know little about.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"https://art19.com/shows/the-sporkful/episodes/4895bff0-f8ca-4e7b-b8f2-64784c9df090/embed?theme=dark-custom\" style=\"width: 100%; height: 200px; border: 0 none;\" scrolling=\"no\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We have all these misconceptions about [Rosa Parks],\" says food writer \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodculturist.com/\">Nicole Taylor\u003c/a>, author of \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Up-South-Cookbook-Chasing-Brooklyn/dp/1581573014\">\u003cem>The Up South Cookbook\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. \"She's human. And the pancakes are the most human thing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's in an envelope?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that Parks wrote this recipe on the back of a banking envelope, and that the bank was in Detroit, tells us a lot about her life after Dec. 1, 1955, when she refused to give up her seat on that bus in Montgomery, Ala.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"She had lost her job for taking the stand that she did,\" explains Adrienne Cannon, who curates the \u003ca href=\"https://www.loc.gov/collections/rosa-parks-papers/about-this-collection/\">Rosa Parks papers\u003c/a> at the Library of Congress. \"Both she and her husband were receiving death threats. And she was struggling to find gainful employment again.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This discrimination eventually forced Parks and her husband to move to Detroit, where she'd end up spending more than half her life. They always struggled financially and she had to be frugal, which is why she reused papers, like banking envelopes, for recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A 'quintessentially African-American' recipe\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I brought a copy of the recipe to Detroit and showed it to Rosa Parks' niece, Sheila McCauley Keys, she was surprised: \"Why would you put peanut butter in pancakes?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food writer Nicole Taylor had a similar reaction. \"Adding peanut butter into a pancake mix, you don't see that a lot,\" she says. \"But then the Tuskegee thing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117083\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-1020x1818.jpg\" alt=\"Rosa Parks' "Featherlite Pancakes" recipe calls for peanut butter.\" width=\"640\" height=\"1141\" class=\"size-large wp-image-117083\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-1020x1818.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-160x285.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-800x1426.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-768x1369.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-1180x2103.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-960x1711.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-240x428.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-375x668.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-520x927.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11.jpg 1519w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rosa Parks' \"Featherlite Pancakes\" recipe calls for peanut butter. \u003ccite>(Library of Congress)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Or as curator Adrienne Cannon calls it, \"the peanut connection.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rosa Parks was born in 1913 in Tuskegee, Ala., home of Tuskegee Institute, where George Washington Carver gained fame for his work with peanuts. His goal was to help black farmers in the South grow a cash crop other than cotton, so they could support themselves better in the years after slavery. By the 1920s Carver was a household name, and by 1940 peanut production was second only to cotton in the South.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the connection between African-American food and peanuts is rooted even deeper. Indigenous to South America, peanuts traveled to the Caribbean and then to Africa, where they were infused into African cuisine. Peanuts came to the American South via the slave trade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They were cultivated by African slaves to supplement their diets,\" Cannon explains. \"They were also fed to hogs. But it wasn't really until Carver's publications in the early 20th century that [peanuts] become loved not just by African-Americans but by the rest of the populace.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Neither Cannon nor Taylor had heard of putting peanut butter in pancake batter before seeing Rosa Parks' recipe. But if the idea would come from anywhere, it would be from Southern African-American food traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Says Cannon, \"This recipe is quintessentially African-American.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it's quintessentially Rosa Parks. Not only did she grow up in Alabama at the same time George Washington Carver was doing his work there, but as her niece Deborah Ann Ross told me, \"She loved peanut butter. That's probably what made her write this down.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117091\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Rosa Parks with her niece Susan McCauley and family outside the Holly Tree Inn in Hampton, Va., 1989\" width=\"1024\" height=\"699\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117091\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-160x109.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-800x546.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-768x524.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-1020x696.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-960x655.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-240x164.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-375x256.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-520x355.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rosa Parks with her niece Susan McCauley and family outside the Holly Tree Inn in Hampton, Va., 1989 \u003ccite>(Library of Congress)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rosa Parks in the kitchen\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Parks and her husband never had kids of their own, but it's clear she loved children. She often cared for, and cooked for, her 11 nieces and nephews. Her niece Sheila McCauley Keys wrote \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Our-Auntie-Rosa-Remembers-Lessons/dp/1101983205\">a book\u003c/a> that includes many of her \"Auntie Rosa's\" recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117085\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1279px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a.jpg\" alt=\"Rosa Parks' nieces Sheila McCauley Keys and Deborah Ann Ross (center) with the author, Dan Pashman.\" width=\"1279\" height=\"959\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117085\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a.jpg 1279w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1279px) 100vw, 1279px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rosa Parks' nieces Sheila McCauley Keys and Deborah Ann Ross (center) with the author, Dan Pashman. \u003ccite>(Dan Pashman for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When I visited Keys and Ross in Detroit for this episode of \u003cem>The Sporkful\u003c/em> podcast, they cooked up several of their aunt's recipes — chicken and dumplings, cornbread griddle cakes, cabbage and bacon, and lemonade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Auntie Rosa's lemonade involved simmering the lemons in water for 30 minutes, which on a hot day could feel like a long time to wait for a drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"She would be in that kitchen, and you were not invited in,\" recalls Keys. \"You would just hear pots and pans. But eventually, when it came out, it was the best thing ever.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Nicole Taylor and I cooked those peanut butter pancakes, we found ourselves thinking a lot about what it might've been like to cook with Rosa Parks. Did she wear her usual formal outfit in the kitchen, or something more comfortable? Which brand of flour did she prefer? And would she approve of putting buttermilk, instead of milk, in the batter, as Nicole did?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One thing was for sure: When we took our first bites, we found the pancakes were true to their name – featherlite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117086\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1631px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6.jpg\" alt=\"While making the peanut butter pancakes, food writer Nicole Taylor and I imagined what it would be like to cook with Rosa Parks.\" width=\"1631\" height=\"1223\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117086\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6.jpg 1631w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1631px) 100vw, 1631px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">While making the peanut butter pancakes, food writer Nicole Taylor and I imagined what it would be like to cook with Rosa Parks. \u003ccite>(Dan Pashman for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"You can taste the peanut butter. The peanut butter really hits the back [of your tongue] quickly,\" says Taylor. \"I've had two bites without syrup. That says a lot.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It makes me look at [Rosa Parks] as more of a 'normal person,' \" Taylor says of making and eating the pancakes. \"She had to eat. She wasn't just this person who was all about the civil rights movement. She cared about nurturing and feeding her family. The pancake recipe makes me feel closer to her.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Dan Pashman is the James Beard Award-nominated host of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sporkful.com\">\u003cem>The Sporkful podcast\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, which is available in \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/the-sporkful/id350709629\">\u003cem>Apple Podcasts\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.stitcher.com/podcast/stitcher/the-sporkful\">\u003cem>Stitcher\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, or wherever you get your podcasts.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Parks jotted the recipe down on the back of an envelope. A Library of Congress curator says \"this recipe is quintessentially African-American.\"","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1493748623,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":true,"iframeSrcs":["https://art19.com/shows/the-sporkful/episodes/4895bff0-f8ca-4e7b-b8f2-64784c9df090/embed"],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":33,"wordCount":1084},"headData":{"title":"Rosa Parks' Pancake Recipe Helps Us See The Human Side Of A Hero | KQED","description":"Parks jotted the recipe down on the back of an envelope. A Library of Congress curator says "this recipe is quintessentially African-American."","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Rosa Parks' Pancake Recipe Helps Us See The Human Side Of A Hero","datePublished":"2017-05-02T18:10:23.000Z","dateModified":"2017-05-02T18:10:23.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"117082 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=117082","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/05/02/rosa-parks-pancake-recipe-helps-us-see-the-human-side-of-a-hero/","disqusTitle":"Rosa Parks' Pancake Recipe Helps Us See The Human Side Of A Hero","nprByline":"Dan Pashman, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/contributors/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"Library of Congress","nprStoryId":"526412114","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=526412114&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/05/02/526412114/rosa-parks-pancake-recipe-helps-us-see-the-human-side-of-a-hero?ft=nprml&f=526412114","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 02 May 2017 11:03:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 02 May 2017 08:00:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 02 May 2017 11:03:31 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/117082/rosa-parks-pancake-recipe-helps-us-see-the-human-side-of-a-hero","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In 2015, after a 10-year legal battle, the Library of Congress released a trove of Rosa Parks' personal documents. Last year the papers were put online for the first time. They include postcards from the Rev. Martin Luther King Jr., lists of volunteers for the Montgomery Bus Boycott, and pages and pages of journals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Buried in the Parks collection is another document that doesn't have as much historical significance – but it got my attention. It's a pancake recipe, written on the back of an envelope.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first glance, Parks' recipe for \"Featherlite Pancakes\" seems little more than a charming footnote, especially because of the novelty of including peanut butter in pancake batter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But as we find in this week's episode of \u003ca href=\"http://www.sporkful.com\">The Sporkful food podcast\u003c/a>, this recipe is actually a window into a time and place, and a person most of us know little about.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe src=\"https://art19.com/shows/the-sporkful/episodes/4895bff0-f8ca-4e7b-b8f2-64784c9df090/embed?theme=dark-custom\" style=\"width: 100%; height: 200px; border: 0 none;\" scrolling=\"no\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We have all these misconceptions about [Rosa Parks],\" says food writer \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodculturist.com/\">Nicole Taylor\u003c/a>, author of \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Up-South-Cookbook-Chasing-Brooklyn/dp/1581573014\">\u003cem>The Up South Cookbook\u003c/em>\u003c/a>. \"She's human. And the pancakes are the most human thing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's in an envelope?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that Parks wrote this recipe on the back of a banking envelope, and that the bank was in Detroit, tells us a lot about her life after Dec. 1, 1955, when she refused to give up her seat on that bus in Montgomery, Ala.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"She had lost her job for taking the stand that she did,\" explains Adrienne Cannon, who curates the \u003ca href=\"https://www.loc.gov/collections/rosa-parks-papers/about-this-collection/\">Rosa Parks papers\u003c/a> at the Library of Congress. \"Both she and her husband were receiving death threats. And she was struggling to find gainful employment again.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This discrimination eventually forced Parks and her husband to move to Detroit, where she'd end up spending more than half her life. They always struggled financially and she had to be frugal, which is why she reused papers, like banking envelopes, for recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A 'quintessentially African-American' recipe\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I brought a copy of the recipe to Detroit and showed it to Rosa Parks' niece, Sheila McCauley Keys, she was surprised: \"Why would you put peanut butter in pancakes?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Food writer Nicole Taylor had a similar reaction. \"Adding peanut butter into a pancake mix, you don't see that a lot,\" she says. \"But then the Tuskegee thing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117083\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-1020x1818.jpg\" alt=\"Rosa Parks' "Featherlite Pancakes" recipe calls for peanut butter.\" width=\"640\" height=\"1141\" class=\"size-large wp-image-117083\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-1020x1818.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-160x285.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-800x1426.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-768x1369.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-1180x2103.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-960x1711.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-240x428.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-375x668.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11-520x927.jpg 520w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/rosaparks_custom-8b9908a8e1495eb047e72ca5dbae721b05981e11.jpg 1519w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rosa Parks' \"Featherlite Pancakes\" recipe calls for peanut butter. \u003ccite>(Library of Congress)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Or as curator Adrienne Cannon calls it, \"the peanut connection.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rosa Parks was born in 1913 in Tuskegee, Ala., home of Tuskegee Institute, where George Washington Carver gained fame for his work with peanuts. His goal was to help black farmers in the South grow a cash crop other than cotton, so they could support themselves better in the years after slavery. By the 1920s Carver was a household name, and by 1940 peanut production was second only to cotton in the South.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the connection between African-American food and peanuts is rooted even deeper. Indigenous to South America, peanuts traveled to the Caribbean and then to Africa, where they were infused into African cuisine. Peanuts came to the American South via the slave trade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They were cultivated by African slaves to supplement their diets,\" Cannon explains. \"They were also fed to hogs. But it wasn't really until Carver's publications in the early 20th century that [peanuts] become loved not just by African-Americans but by the rest of the populace.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Neither Cannon nor Taylor had heard of putting peanut butter in pancake batter before seeing Rosa Parks' recipe. But if the idea would come from anywhere, it would be from Southern African-American food traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Says Cannon, \"This recipe is quintessentially African-American.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And it's quintessentially Rosa Parks. Not only did she grow up in Alabama at the same time George Washington Carver was doing his work there, but as her niece Deborah Ann Ross told me, \"She loved peanut butter. That's probably what made her write this down.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117091\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Rosa Parks with her niece Susan McCauley and family outside the Holly Tree Inn in Hampton, Va., 1989\" width=\"1024\" height=\"699\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117091\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85.jpg 1024w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-160x109.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-800x546.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-768x524.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-1020x696.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-960x655.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-240x164.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-375x256.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/47600v_custom-948b12126de975543691d4e311088ff358250098-s1500-c85-520x355.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rosa Parks with her niece Susan McCauley and family outside the Holly Tree Inn in Hampton, Va., 1989 \u003ccite>(Library of Congress)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Rosa Parks in the kitchen\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Parks and her husband never had kids of their own, but it's clear she loved children. She often cared for, and cooked for, her 11 nieces and nephews. Her niece Sheila McCauley Keys wrote \u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Our-Auntie-Rosa-Remembers-Lessons/dp/1101983205\">a book\u003c/a> that includes many of her \"Auntie Rosa's\" recipes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117085\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1279px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a.jpg\" alt=\"Rosa Parks' nieces Sheila McCauley Keys and Deborah Ann Ross (center) with the author, Dan Pashman.\" width=\"1279\" height=\"959\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117085\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a.jpg 1279w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/fullsizerender-7-84c2c010ee2a8874f0949ca05018f499a5a7453a-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1279px) 100vw, 1279px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rosa Parks' nieces Sheila McCauley Keys and Deborah Ann Ross (center) with the author, Dan Pashman. \u003ccite>(Dan Pashman for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When I visited Keys and Ross in Detroit for this episode of \u003cem>The Sporkful\u003c/em> podcast, they cooked up several of their aunt's recipes — chicken and dumplings, cornbread griddle cakes, cabbage and bacon, and lemonade.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Auntie Rosa's lemonade involved simmering the lemons in water for 30 minutes, which on a hot day could feel like a long time to wait for a drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"She would be in that kitchen, and you were not invited in,\" recalls Keys. \"You would just hear pots and pans. But eventually, when it came out, it was the best thing ever.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Nicole Taylor and I cooked those peanut butter pancakes, we found ourselves thinking a lot about what it might've been like to cook with Rosa Parks. Did she wear her usual formal outfit in the kitchen, or something more comfortable? Which brand of flour did she prefer? And would she approve of putting buttermilk, instead of milk, in the batter, as Nicole did?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One thing was for sure: When we took our first bites, we found the pancakes were true to their name – featherlite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_117086\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1631px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6.jpg\" alt=\"While making the peanut butter pancakes, food writer Nicole Taylor and I imagined what it would be like to cook with Rosa Parks.\" width=\"1631\" height=\"1223\" class=\"size-full wp-image-117086\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6.jpg 1631w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/05/img_5562-9017824300ac854941e1b9d974d130fc462cdea6-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1631px) 100vw, 1631px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">While making the peanut butter pancakes, food writer Nicole Taylor and I imagined what it would be like to cook with Rosa Parks. \u003ccite>(Dan Pashman for NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"You can taste the peanut butter. The peanut butter really hits the back [of your tongue] quickly,\" says Taylor. \"I've had two bites without syrup. That says a lot.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It makes me look at [Rosa Parks] as more of a 'normal person,' \" Taylor says of making and eating the pancakes. \"She had to eat. She wasn't just this person who was all about the civil rights movement. She cared about nurturing and feeding her family. The pancake recipe makes me feel closer to her.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Dan Pashman is the James Beard Award-nominated host of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.sporkful.com\">\u003cem>The Sporkful podcast\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, which is available in \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/the-sporkful/id350709629\">\u003cem>Apple Podcasts\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.stitcher.com/podcast/stitcher/the-sporkful\">\u003cem>Stitcher\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, or wherever you get your podcasts.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/117082/rosa-parks-pancake-recipe-helps-us-see-the-human-side-of-a-hero","authors":["byline_bayareabites_117082"],"categories":["bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_2090"],"tags":["bayareabites_14326","bayareabites_15647","bayareabites_15840","bayareabites_473","bayareabites_2826","bayareabites_15839","bayareabites_15841"],"featImg":"bayareabites_117084","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_112598":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_112598","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"112598","score":null,"sort":[1476212775000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"african-american-museum-cafe-serves-up-black-history-with-every-forkful","title":"African-American Museum Cafe Serves Up Black History With Every Forkful","publishDate":1476212775,"format":"image","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>The restaurant inside the new National Museum of African American History and Culture offers food that satisfies the hunger — and a space that satisfies the mind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweet Home Cafe has four serving stations, each representing a region of the United States: the North States, Western Range, Agriculture South and Creole Coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea is to expand people's understanding of just how much African-Americans have contributed to our nation's culinary heritage, says Joanne Hyppolite, curator for the cultural expressions exhibits that feature foodways, culture and cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People think that African-Americans only created soul food,\" Hyppolite says. But in fact, she says, black folks \"had a long presence in kitchens all over the United States — whether that was in a railroad car, on ranches in the West, in wealthy people's homes throughout the North and plantations to the South. They were there contributing to all types of American cuisine.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" size=\"full\" link=\"none\" ids=\"112607,112606,112605,112604,112603,112602,112601,112600,112599\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hyppolite meets me for lunch at Sweet Home Cafe. She orders from the North States — pan-roasted oysters served in a rich red sauce that starts with shallots and butter, deglazed with white wine and reduced with chili sauce and cream. The dish was inspired by Thomas Downing — the son of freed slaves who became known as the \"oyster king of New York.\" Downing used his basement as a stop in the Underground Railroad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112612\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0021edit_custom-05e45950c2eae13e4e8876cbe37cb69ebf97aa9a-s800-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Sweet Home Cafe's dining area feels like a gallery. Images and words that tell of African-Americans' relationship with food surround you. A black-and-white photograph covers an entire wall. The subject: the Greensboro Four, sitting in protest of segregation at a Woolworth's lunch counter in 1960.\" width=\"800\" height=\"521\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112612\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0021edit_custom-05e45950c2eae13e4e8876cbe37cb69ebf97aa9a-s800-c85.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0021edit_custom-05e45950c2eae13e4e8876cbe37cb69ebf97aa9a-s800-c85-400x261.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0021edit_custom-05e45950c2eae13e4e8876cbe37cb69ebf97aa9a-s800-c85-768x500.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sweet Home Cafe's dining area feels like a gallery. Images and words that tell of African-Americans' relationship with food surround you. A black-and-white photograph covers an entire wall. The subject: the Greensboro Four, sitting in protest of segregation at a Woolworth's lunch counter in 1960. \u003ccite>(Ariel Zambelich/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the Agricultural South station, Shari Hills and Keena Lewis, both young residents of Washington, D.C., who originally hail from the South, choose the fried chicken and mac 'n' cheese — which Hills calls \"the bomb.\" When asked how the food compares to what they've had back home, the two laugh. \"Back home, it's probably a little more salt-seasoned,\" Hills says with a giggle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Creole Coast serves up dishes like duck, andouille sausage and crawfish gumbo. Visiting from Durham, N.C., Marie Shaw Simmons has a taste for the catfish po' boy and watermelon and tomato salad. \"Isn't it beautiful?\" Simmons says. \"It reminds me of home.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her friend, Anita Neville, who also got the catfish, takes a picture to send to her sister so that \"she can be a little envious ... and also glad for me.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the Western Range station, many dishes have Native American and Mexican influences, such as barbecued buffalo brisket and black-eyed peas empanadas. After the Civil War, many freed slaves moved West to take up jobs as ranch hands and cowboys. In cattle country, beef replaced pork in their cooking. \"Son of a Gun Stew\" — traditionally made with innards — gets a modern twist with braised short beef, turnips, tomato, potato, leeks and sun-dried tomato.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweet Home Cafe doesn't just offer food that people already know. It wants to introduce dishes and educate those unfamiliar to African-American cuisine, like Art Bushkin from Virginia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"First of all, I don't totally know what's on my plate,\" Bushkin tells me. (It was loaded with fried chicken, collards and a Gullah-style version of the rice and beans dish known as Hoppin' John.) \"We don't recognize the names, but you can't go wrong. It's just very different and very wonderful,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took about two years for a committee of curators, chefs and historians to decided on the cafe concept, design and menu. Jessica Harris, culinary historian and author, led the project. After looking at the success of the Mitsitam Cafe at the National Museum of the American Indian, the first in the Smithsonian family to turn a cafeteria into a history lesson, Harris became the force behind the regional sections at Sweet Home Cafe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112609\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2921px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d.jpg\" alt=\"Sweet Home Cafe executive chef Jerome Grant\" width=\"2921\" height=\"1954\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112609\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d.jpg 2921w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-400x268.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-800x535.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-768x514.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-1440x963.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-1180x789.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-960x642.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2921px) 100vw, 2921px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sweet Home Cafe executive chef Jerome Grant \u003ccite>(Ariel Zambelich/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Smithsonian works with Thomas Hospitality, the largest minority-owned food service company, to help run the kitchen smoothly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Supervising chef Albert Lukas of Restaurant Associates, another Smithsonian partner in food services, traveled to places like South Carolina to dig into Southern cooking. Executive chef Jerome Grant, who previously ran the Mitsitam Cafe, hung out with his chef friends in New York to see how they put their twists on classic dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweet Home Cafe's dining area feels like a gallery. Images and words that tell of African-Americans' relationship with food surround you. A black-and-white photograph covers an entire wall. The subject: the Greensboro Four, sitting in protest of segregation at a Woolworth's lunch counter in 1960.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carla Hall, chef, television personality and a D.C. resident, is the cafe's culinary ambassador.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm really the person who gets people excited,\" Hall says while on break from her daily shoot at ABC's \u003cem>The Chew\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says she wants people to talk about their museum experience in the cafe as if they're \"around the kitchen table at home, where you feel comfortable and safe as a family.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leon Hill and Tori Richardson-Hill of Minnesota did just that. \"We talked about the eating experience of black people or people of color,\" Richardson-Hill says. At the table were her two adult children, both college students who'd joined their family for this museum visit. \"This was a very smart move on the museum's part to have this as part of the museum experience.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The restaurant inside the new National Museum of African American History and Culture offers a menu designed to showcase the breadth of black contributions to our nation's cuisine.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1476214066,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":true,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":23,"wordCount":960},"headData":{"title":"African-American Museum Cafe Serves Up Black History With Every Forkful | KQED","description":"The restaurant inside the new National Museum of African American History and Culture offers a menu designed to showcase the breadth of black contributions to our nation's cuisine.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"African-American Museum Cafe Serves Up Black History With Every Forkful","datePublished":"2016-10-11T19:06:15.000Z","dateModified":"2016-10-11T19:27:46.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"112598 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=112598","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/10/11/african-american-museum-cafe-serves-up-black-history-with-every-forkful/","disqusTitle":"African-American Museum Cafe Serves Up Black History With Every Forkful","nprImageCredit":"Ariel Zambelich","nprByline":"Wilma Consul, \u003ca href=https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"NPR","nprStoryId":"495254718","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=495254718&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/10/11/495254718/african-american-museum-cafe-serves-up-black-history-with-every-forkful?ft=nprml&f=495254718","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 11 Oct 2016 12:31:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 11 Oct 2016 12:31:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 11 Oct 2016 12:31:40 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/112598/african-american-museum-cafe-serves-up-black-history-with-every-forkful","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>The restaurant inside the new National Museum of African American History and Culture offers food that satisfies the hunger — and a space that satisfies the mind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweet Home Cafe has four serving stations, each representing a region of the United States: the North States, Western Range, Agriculture South and Creole Coast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The idea is to expand people's understanding of just how much African-Americans have contributed to our nation's culinary heritage, says Joanne Hyppolite, curator for the cultural expressions exhibits that feature foodways, culture and cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People think that African-Americans only created soul food,\" Hyppolite says. But in fact, she says, black folks \"had a long presence in kitchens all over the United States — whether that was in a railroad car, on ranches in the West, in wealthy people's homes throughout the North and plantations to the South. They were there contributing to all types of American cuisine.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","size":"full","link":"none","ids":"112607,112606,112605,112604,112603,112602,112601,112600,112599","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hyppolite meets me for lunch at Sweet Home Cafe. She orders from the North States — pan-roasted oysters served in a rich red sauce that starts with shallots and butter, deglazed with white wine and reduced with chili sauce and cream. The dish was inspired by Thomas Downing — the son of freed slaves who became known as the \"oyster king of New York.\" Downing used his basement as a stop in the Underground Railroad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112612\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0021edit_custom-05e45950c2eae13e4e8876cbe37cb69ebf97aa9a-s800-c85.jpg\" alt=\"Sweet Home Cafe's dining area feels like a gallery. Images and words that tell of African-Americans' relationship with food surround you. A black-and-white photograph covers an entire wall. The subject: the Greensboro Four, sitting in protest of segregation at a Woolworth's lunch counter in 1960.\" width=\"800\" height=\"521\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112612\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0021edit_custom-05e45950c2eae13e4e8876cbe37cb69ebf97aa9a-s800-c85.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0021edit_custom-05e45950c2eae13e4e8876cbe37cb69ebf97aa9a-s800-c85-400x261.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0021edit_custom-05e45950c2eae13e4e8876cbe37cb69ebf97aa9a-s800-c85-768x500.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sweet Home Cafe's dining area feels like a gallery. Images and words that tell of African-Americans' relationship with food surround you. A black-and-white photograph covers an entire wall. The subject: the Greensboro Four, sitting in protest of segregation at a Woolworth's lunch counter in 1960. \u003ccite>(Ariel Zambelich/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the Agricultural South station, Shari Hills and Keena Lewis, both young residents of Washington, D.C., who originally hail from the South, choose the fried chicken and mac 'n' cheese — which Hills calls \"the bomb.\" When asked how the food compares to what they've had back home, the two laugh. \"Back home, it's probably a little more salt-seasoned,\" Hills says with a giggle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Creole Coast serves up dishes like duck, andouille sausage and crawfish gumbo. Visiting from Durham, N.C., Marie Shaw Simmons has a taste for the catfish po' boy and watermelon and tomato salad. \"Isn't it beautiful?\" Simmons says. \"It reminds me of home.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her friend, Anita Neville, who also got the catfish, takes a picture to send to her sister so that \"she can be a little envious ... and also glad for me.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the Western Range station, many dishes have Native American and Mexican influences, such as barbecued buffalo brisket and black-eyed peas empanadas. After the Civil War, many freed slaves moved West to take up jobs as ranch hands and cowboys. In cattle country, beef replaced pork in their cooking. \"Son of a Gun Stew\" — traditionally made with innards — gets a modern twist with braised short beef, turnips, tomato, potato, leeks and sun-dried tomato.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweet Home Cafe doesn't just offer food that people already know. It wants to introduce dishes and educate those unfamiliar to African-American cuisine, like Art Bushkin from Virginia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"First of all, I don't totally know what's on my plate,\" Bushkin tells me. (It was loaded with fried chicken, collards and a Gullah-style version of the rice and beans dish known as Hoppin' John.) \"We don't recognize the names, but you can't go wrong. It's just very different and very wonderful,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took about two years for a committee of curators, chefs and historians to decided on the cafe concept, design and menu. Jessica Harris, culinary historian and author, led the project. After looking at the success of the Mitsitam Cafe at the National Museum of the American Indian, the first in the Smithsonian family to turn a cafeteria into a history lesson, Harris became the force behind the regional sections at Sweet Home Cafe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_112609\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2921px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d.jpg\" alt=\"Sweet Home Cafe executive chef Jerome Grant\" width=\"2921\" height=\"1954\" class=\"size-full wp-image-112609\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d.jpg 2921w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-400x268.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-800x535.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-768x514.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-1440x963.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-1180x789.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/10/2016-09-14-nmaahc-food-museum-0120edit_custom-d6cf3895ac865a89044dee9293851e763734755d-960x642.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2921px) 100vw, 2921px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sweet Home Cafe executive chef Jerome Grant \u003ccite>(Ariel Zambelich/NPR)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Smithsonian works with Thomas Hospitality, the largest minority-owned food service company, to help run the kitchen smoothly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Supervising chef Albert Lukas of Restaurant Associates, another Smithsonian partner in food services, traveled to places like South Carolina to dig into Southern cooking. Executive chef Jerome Grant, who previously ran the Mitsitam Cafe, hung out with his chef friends in New York to see how they put their twists on classic dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweet Home Cafe's dining area feels like a gallery. Images and words that tell of African-Americans' relationship with food surround you. A black-and-white photograph covers an entire wall. The subject: the Greensboro Four, sitting in protest of segregation at a Woolworth's lunch counter in 1960.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carla Hall, chef, television personality and a D.C. resident, is the cafe's culinary ambassador.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm really the person who gets people excited,\" Hall says while on break from her daily shoot at ABC's \u003cem>The Chew\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She says she wants people to talk about their museum experience in the cafe as if they're \"around the kitchen table at home, where you feel comfortable and safe as a family.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leon Hill and Tori Richardson-Hill of Minnesota did just that. \"We talked about the eating experience of black people or people of color,\" Richardson-Hill says. At the table were her two adult children, both college students who'd joined their family for this museum visit. \"This was a very smart move on the museum's part to have this as part of the museum experience.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/112598/african-american-museum-cafe-serves-up-black-history-with-every-forkful","authors":["byline_bayareabites_112598"],"categories":["bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_14326","bayareabites_15647","bayareabites_11958"],"featImg":"bayareabites_112603","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_97781":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_97781","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"97781","score":null,"sort":[1436558078000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-fried-chicken-capital-where-racial-progress-began-along-the-rails","title":"'The Fried Chicken Capital': Where Racial Progress Began Along The Rails","publishDate":1436558078,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Fried chicken is a \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/codeswitch/2013/05/22/186087397/where-did-that-fried-chicken-stereotype-come-from\">racially fraught food\u003c/a>. Historically, it's been associated with racist depictions of African-Americans, and today, some still wield the fried-chicken-eating stereotype as an insult. But in some cases, the food itself has provided a path toward financial freedom for blacks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the town of Gordonsville, Va., for example. As Lauren Ober of NPR member station WAMU \u003ca href=\"http://wamu.org/programs/metro_connection/15/07/03/how_gordonsville_virginia_became_the_world_capital_of_fried_chicken\">recently reported\u003c/a>, in the latter half of the 1800s, the town gained fame as the \"Fried Chicken Capital of the World.\" And the reasons why date back to the rise of the railroad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time the Civil War broke out, the town was a main stop on two rail lines. It was also a major \u003ca href=\"http://www.encyclopediavirginia.org/Gordonsville_During_the_Civil_War#start_entry\">transportation hub\u003c/a> for produce coming from Virginia's Shenandoah Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But those trains didn't have dining cars, and local African-American women found a business opportunity in hungry passengers. The women would cook up fried chicken, biscuits, pies and other tasty goods and sell it from the train platform, passing it over to passengers through the open windows.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 858px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2.jpg\" alt=\"Waiter carriers sell their wares along the platform. According to Williams-Forson's book, Bella Winston's mother is one of the women pictured in this photo.\" width=\"858\" height=\"623\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2.jpg 858w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2-400x290.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2-800x581.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 858px) 100vw, 858px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Waiter carriers sell their wares along the platform. According to Williams-Forson's book, Bella Winston's mother is one of the women pictured in this photo. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of the Town of Gordonsville )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These vendors, known as waiter carriers because they had to transport the food a long way to get to the station, developed a reputation for their culinary skills, according to \u003ca href=\"http://amst.umd.edu/people/faculty/psyche-williams-forson/\">Psyche Williams-Forson\u003c/a>, an associate professor of American Studies at the University of Maryland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some people would deliberately chart their way through Gordonsville because they knew they would encounter these women and those particular foodstuffs,\" Williams-Forson tells Ober.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the waiter carriers of Gordonsville, fried chicken became an avenue of economic empowerment after the Civil War. The title of Williams-Forson's \u003ca href=\"http://uncpress.unc.edu/browse/book_detail?title_id=1400\">2006 book\u003c/a>, \u003cem>Building Houses Out of Chicken Legs: Black Women, Food and Power,\u003c/em> is a nod to this entrepreneurial legacy: Bella Winston, an 80-year-old former waiter carrier, who learned the trade from her mother, told a local newspaper in 1970, \"My mother paid for this place with chicken legs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That degree of economic independence was rare for African-Americans post-emancipation, Gordonsville Mayor Bob Coiner tells Ober:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"At the end of the Civil War, when we have new freedoms for people, they're put in a position where they need jobs,\" says Coiner, whose family has lived in Gordonsville for many generations. \"The situation was bad before, but you could count on the situation. Now it was a big unknown.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The waiter carriers were part of a larger tradition of African-American women who found economic independence — in some cases even \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/02/10/171663336/meet-the-calas-a-new-orleans-treat-that-helped-free-slaves\">buying their own freedom\u003c/a> — through their cooking skills. Indeed, one of the first cookbooks published by a black woman in America was \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/06/02/411518221/slavery-famine-and-the-politics-of-pie-what-civil-war-recipes-reveal\">put out\u003c/a> by an ex-slave woman in 1881.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Williams-Forson writes that the historical record is sparse when it comes to Gordonsville's fried chicken vendors. But, she tells Ober, \"I think it's important to talk about it, because it reflects some level of agency that some African-Americans were able to exhibit during that horrible institution.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, fried chicken is a particularly racially charged dish. To wit: the\u003ca href=\"http://depts.washington.edu/civilr/coon_chicken.htm\"> Coon Chicken Inn\u003c/a>, a restaurant chain begun in Salt Lake City, Utah, in 1925, that was popular for its fried chicken. The decor was as racist as the name. The caricature of a black man with grotesquely oversized red, open, smiling lips, a porter's hat askew on his head, was ubiquitous: on silverware, menus, matchbooks and other advertising. Customers had to walk through a giant version of those grinning lips to enter the restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Back in those days ... it wasn't nothing to see [such] mockery. Black folks was always being mocked,\" according to former headwaiter Roy Hawkins, whose recollections of working there appear in Williams-Forson's book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hawkins said he had to endure customer insults, but it was lucrative work: He'd bring home $100 to $200 a night in tips, at a time when bricklayers earned $5 a day. As Hawkins \u003ca href=\"http://archive.sltrib.com/article.php?id=3951441&itype=NGPSID\">told\u003c/a> \u003cem>The Salt Lake Tribune\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>in 2006, he ended up \"laughing all the way to the bank.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for the waiter carriers of Gordonsville, their trade disappeared in the first half of the 20th century, as dining cars were added to trains and government regulations cracked down on track-side food vendors. But their legacy lives on in Gordonsville, which \u003ca href=\"http://www.fredericksburg.com/featuresfood/chicken-tradition-gordonsville-may-be-known-as-the-fried-chicken/article_f6b21b7e-dbb7-5be5-a3d8-808b6469ffd6.html\">hosts\u003c/a> an annual fried chicken contest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lauren Ober's \u003ca href=\"http://wamu.org/programs/metro_connection/15/07/03/how_gordonsville_virginia_became_the_world_capital_of_fried_chicken\">report\u003c/a> on Gordonsville's fried chicken tradition aired on member station WAMU in Washington, D.C. You can listen to a longer version of that story, which details other ways that African-American women have found economic empowerment through food, \u003ca href=\"https://www.southernfoodways.org/gravy/fried-chicken-a-complicated-comfort-food-gravy-ep-16/\">from Gravy\u003c/a>, the podcast from the Southern Foodways Alliance.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Fried chicken is a racially fraught food. But for African-American women in Gordonsville, Va., the dish became a route to financial independence after the Civil War.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1436558078,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":19,"wordCount":811},"headData":{"title":"'The Fried Chicken Capital': Where Racial Progress Began Along The Rails | KQED","description":"Fried chicken is a racially fraught food. But for African-American women in Gordonsville, Va., the dish became a route to financial independence after the Civil War.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"'The Fried Chicken Capital': Where Racial Progress Began Along The Rails","datePublished":"2015-07-10T19:54:38.000Z","dateModified":"2015-07-10T19:54:38.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"97781 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=97781","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/07/10/the-fried-chicken-capital-where-racial-progress-began-along-the-rails/","disqusTitle":"'The Fried Chicken Capital': Where Racial Progress Began Along The Rails","nprByline":"Maria Godoy, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprStoryId":"421469370","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=421469370&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/07/10/421469370/fried-chicken-and-freedom-a-virginia-town-s-surprising-civil-war-legacy?ft=nprml&f=421469370","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Fri, 10 Jul 2015 14:26:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Fri, 10 Jul 2015 13:01:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Fri, 10 Jul 2015 14:26:20 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/97781/the-fried-chicken-capital-where-racial-progress-began-along-the-rails","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Fried chicken is a \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/codeswitch/2013/05/22/186087397/where-did-that-fried-chicken-stereotype-come-from\">racially fraught food\u003c/a>. Historically, it's been associated with racist depictions of African-Americans, and today, some still wield the fried-chicken-eating stereotype as an insult. But in some cases, the food itself has provided a path toward financial freedom for blacks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the town of Gordonsville, Va., for example. As Lauren Ober of NPR member station WAMU \u003ca href=\"http://wamu.org/programs/metro_connection/15/07/03/how_gordonsville_virginia_became_the_world_capital_of_fried_chicken\">recently reported\u003c/a>, in the latter half of the 1800s, the town gained fame as the \"Fried Chicken Capital of the World.\" And the reasons why date back to the rise of the railroad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By the time the Civil War broke out, the town was a main stop on two rail lines. It was also a major \u003ca href=\"http://www.encyclopediavirginia.org/Gordonsville_During_the_Civil_War#start_entry\">transportation hub\u003c/a> for produce coming from Virginia's Shenandoah Valley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But those trains didn't have dining cars, and local African-American women found a business opportunity in hungry passengers. The women would cook up fried chicken, biscuits, pies and other tasty goods and sell it from the train platform, passing it over to passengers through the open windows.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_97783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 858px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2.jpg\" alt=\"Waiter carriers sell their wares along the platform. According to Williams-Forson's book, Bella Winston's mother is one of the women pictured in this photo.\" width=\"858\" height=\"623\" class=\"size-full wp-image-97783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2.jpg 858w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2-400x290.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/07/gvillewaitercarriersphoto_custom-8ce8619a04b61808aa2d6f4aa37f7f766ec198f2-800x581.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 858px) 100vw, 858px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Waiter carriers sell their wares along the platform. According to Williams-Forson's book, Bella Winston's mother is one of the women pictured in this photo. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of the Town of Gordonsville )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>These vendors, known as waiter carriers because they had to transport the food a long way to get to the station, developed a reputation for their culinary skills, according to \u003ca href=\"http://amst.umd.edu/people/faculty/psyche-williams-forson/\">Psyche Williams-Forson\u003c/a>, an associate professor of American Studies at the University of Maryland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some people would deliberately chart their way through Gordonsville because they knew they would encounter these women and those particular foodstuffs,\" Williams-Forson tells Ober.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the waiter carriers of Gordonsville, fried chicken became an avenue of economic empowerment after the Civil War. The title of Williams-Forson's \u003ca href=\"http://uncpress.unc.edu/browse/book_detail?title_id=1400\">2006 book\u003c/a>, \u003cem>Building Houses Out of Chicken Legs: Black Women, Food and Power,\u003c/em> is a nod to this entrepreneurial legacy: Bella Winston, an 80-year-old former waiter carrier, who learned the trade from her mother, told a local newspaper in 1970, \"My mother paid for this place with chicken legs.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That degree of economic independence was rare for African-Americans post-emancipation, Gordonsville Mayor Bob Coiner tells Ober:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"At the end of the Civil War, when we have new freedoms for people, they're put in a position where they need jobs,\" says Coiner, whose family has lived in Gordonsville for many generations. \"The situation was bad before, but you could count on the situation. Now it was a big unknown.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The waiter carriers were part of a larger tradition of African-American women who found economic independence — in some cases even \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2013/02/10/171663336/meet-the-calas-a-new-orleans-treat-that-helped-free-slaves\">buying their own freedom\u003c/a> — through their cooking skills. Indeed, one of the first cookbooks published by a black woman in America was \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/06/02/411518221/slavery-famine-and-the-politics-of-pie-what-civil-war-recipes-reveal\">put out\u003c/a> by an ex-slave woman in 1881.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Williams-Forson writes that the historical record is sparse when it comes to Gordonsville's fried chicken vendors. But, she tells Ober, \"I think it's important to talk about it, because it reflects some level of agency that some African-Americans were able to exhibit during that horrible institution.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, fried chicken is a particularly racially charged dish. To wit: the\u003ca href=\"http://depts.washington.edu/civilr/coon_chicken.htm\"> Coon Chicken Inn\u003c/a>, a restaurant chain begun in Salt Lake City, Utah, in 1925, that was popular for its fried chicken. The decor was as racist as the name. The caricature of a black man with grotesquely oversized red, open, smiling lips, a porter's hat askew on his head, was ubiquitous: on silverware, menus, matchbooks and other advertising. Customers had to walk through a giant version of those grinning lips to enter the restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Back in those days ... it wasn't nothing to see [such] mockery. Black folks was always being mocked,\" according to former headwaiter Roy Hawkins, whose recollections of working there appear in Williams-Forson's book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hawkins said he had to endure customer insults, but it was lucrative work: He'd bring home $100 to $200 a night in tips, at a time when bricklayers earned $5 a day. As Hawkins \u003ca href=\"http://archive.sltrib.com/article.php?id=3951441&itype=NGPSID\">told\u003c/a> \u003cem>The Salt Lake Tribune\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>in 2006, he ended up \"laughing all the way to the bank.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As for the waiter carriers of Gordonsville, their trade disappeared in the first half of the 20th century, as dining cars were added to trains and government regulations cracked down on track-side food vendors. But their legacy lives on in Gordonsville, which \u003ca href=\"http://www.fredericksburg.com/featuresfood/chicken-tradition-gordonsville-may-be-known-as-the-fried-chicken/article_f6b21b7e-dbb7-5be5-a3d8-808b6469ffd6.html\">hosts\u003c/a> an annual fried chicken contest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lauren Ober's \u003ca href=\"http://wamu.org/programs/metro_connection/15/07/03/how_gordonsville_virginia_became_the_world_capital_of_fried_chicken\">report\u003c/a> on Gordonsville's fried chicken tradition aired on member station WAMU in Washington, D.C. You can listen to a longer version of that story, which details other ways that African-American women have found economic empowerment through food, \u003ca href=\"https://www.southernfoodways.org/gravy/fried-chicken-a-complicated-comfort-food-gravy-ep-16/\">from Gravy\u003c/a>, the podcast from the Southern Foodways Alliance.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/97781/the-fried-chicken-capital-where-racial-progress-began-along-the-rails","authors":["byline_bayareabites_97781"],"categories":["bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_14326","bayareabites_14619","bayareabites_330","bayareabites_14620","bayareabites_11875","bayareabites_14621"],"featImg":"bayareabites_97782","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_69841":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_69841","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"69841","score":null,"sort":[1378824120000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"why-arent-there-more-people-of-color-in-craft-brewing","title":"Why Aren't There More People Of Color In Craft Brewing?","publishDate":1378824120,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69855\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/brewers-michael-ferguson.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-69855\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/brewers-michael-ferguson.jpg\" alt=\"Michael Ferguson, of the BJ's Restaurants group, is one of only a small handful of African-Americans who make beer for a living. Photo: Greg Barna/Courtesy 'Beer Geeks'\" width=\"1120\" height=\"630\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Michael Ferguson, of the BJ's Restaurants group, is one of only a small handful of African-Americans who make beer for a living. Photo: Greg Barna/Courtesy 'Beer Geeks'\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Alastair Bland, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/09/06/219721800/why-aren-t-there-more-people-of-color-in-craft-brewing\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (9/10/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michael Ferguson sometimes jokingly refers to himself among colleagues as \"the other black brewer.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's because \u003ca href=\"http://www.bjsrestaurants.com/bj-beers/profiles\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Ferguson\u003c/a>, of the BJ's Restaurants group, is one of only a small handful of African-Americans who make beer for a living. Latinos and Asian Americans are scarce within the brewing community, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For the most part, you've got a bunch of white guys with beards making beer,\" says Yiga Miyashiro, a Japanese-American brewer with Saint Archer Brewery in San Diego.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sure, there are prominent exceptions — like Garrett Oliver, the brewmaster at Brooklyn Brewery, and Celeste and Khouri Beatty, the owners and operators of Harlem Brewing Company. There are a few others, too — but that's out of more than 2,600 breweries nationwide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So how did American craft brewing end up so lacking in diversity?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a puzzle, agrees \u003cem>Wall Street Journal\u003c/em> beer reviewer and author William Bostwick, who is now working on a global history of beer to be titled \"\u003ca href=\"http://brewerstale.tumblr.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Brewer's Tale\u003c/a>.\" He says that virtually every culture in the world's human history has made alcoholic beverages.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's one of the few things that all cultures share, so why it's now dominated here in the U.S., and maybe in Europe and Australia, by white males is something I can't explain,\" Bostwick says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.babson.edu/Academics/faculty/profiles/Pages/opie-frederick.aspx\">Frederick Douglas Opie\u003c/a>, a food historian at Babson College, says that cultures in western and central Africa have \"a long history of artisan brewing.\" People of the region, he says, made beer from sorghum and millet, as well as palm wine – which, he says, was considered by some a luxury product.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So, why that discontinues in America after the Atlantic slave trade, I don't know,\" Opie says. Blacks, he notes, often made moonshine liquor and bootleg beer in the 1920s and '30s. But these days, they're all but absent from the craft beer scene. \"It could be that beer is like a lot of things in the food industry which, as they grow popular, become very hip, yuppie and white.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Looking at the nation's community of homebrewers also sheds light on the matter, says brewer Jeremy Marshall, of Lagunitas Brewing Company.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69854\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/brewers-5-rabbit.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-69854\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/brewers-5-rabbit-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Andres Araya owns the 5 Rabbit Cerveceria in Chicago. He says "homebrewing doesn't really exist in Latin America." Photo: Courtesy Andres Araya\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andres Araya owns the 5 Rabbit Cerveceria in Chicago. He says \"homebrewing doesn't really exist in Latin America.\" Photo: Courtesy Andres Araya\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Craft brewing is rooted in homebrewing,\" Marshall says. \"And if you look at homebrewing, you see nerdy white guys playing Dungeons and Dragons and living in their mom's basement, and I know this because I was and am one of them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duke Geren, of the Portland, Ore., homebrewing shop F.H. Steinbart, says his shop's customer base is primarily white. People of other races and ethnicities – particularly the area's Ethiopian community — do purchase brewing supplies from the store, he notes. \"But we don't see this moving up into the commercial level,\" Geren says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2011, Andres Araya opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.5rabbitbrewery.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">5 Rabbit Cerveceria\u003c/a> in Chicago, which he says is the first Latin American-themed brewery in the United States. Araya says most American craft beers pay homage to the European nations that brought beer to America — especially Germany and England. Each of Araya's beers, though, is made using an ingredient from Central or South America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Araya, who has worked in Mexico's beer industry, says that \"homebrewing doesn't really exist in Latin America.\" And when Latin Americans immigrate into the United States, Araya says, very few start brewing beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a few, at least, do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Near Napa, Calif., \u003ca href=\"http://www.carnerosbrews.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Carneros Brewing Company\u003c/a> is owned and operated by a Mexican-American family. The brewery opened this summer and makes, among other brews, a wheat beer playfully named \"Jefeweizen.\" (\"Jefe,\" in which the \"j\" is pronounced like an \"h\" sound, is Spanish for boss.) Co-owner Amelia Ceja told The Salt that her company is one of three Latino-owned breweries in the country. (The Brewers Association, a Boulder-based trade group, doesn't keep statistics on the ethnicity or race of people in the industry and could not confirm this claim.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ferguson at BJ's — who hosted the first episode in a new television series called \"\u003ca href=\"http://beergeeks.tv/about\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Beer Geeks\u003c/a>\" this weekend — believes the lack of color in the brewing industry reflects a simple cultural preference: \"It seems to me that craft beer isn't a catch phrase among the black population.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With 1,600 yet-to-be-opened breweries now in their planning stages, according to the Brewers Association, perhaps the ethnic void in the beer world will begin to fill out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for now, Ferguson says, \"we are an incredible minority.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's mostly just me and Garrett Oliver,\" he says, somewhat jokingly. \"He really is like the Tiger Woods of brewing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Few African Americans make beer for a living. Latinos and Asian Americans are also scarce among the nation's more than 2,600 breweries. How did American craft brewing end up so lacking in diversity?","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1550616217,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":848},"headData":{"title":"Why Aren't There More People Of Color In Craft Brewing? | KQED","description":"Few African Americans make beer for a living. Latinos and Asian Americans are also scarce among the nation's more than 2,600 breweries. How did American craft brewing end up so lacking in diversity?","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Why Aren't There More People Of Color In Craft Brewing?","datePublished":"2013-09-10T14:42:00.000Z","dateModified":"2019-02-19T22:43:37.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"69841 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=69841","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/09/10/why-arent-there-more-people-of-color-in-craft-brewing/","disqusTitle":"Why Aren't There More People Of Color In Craft Brewing?","nprByline":"Alastair Bland","nprStoryId":"219721800","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=219721800&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/09/06/219721800/why-aren-t-there-more-people-of-color-in-craft-brewing?ft=3&f=219721800","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 10 Sep 2013 09:42:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 10 Sep 2013 09:37:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 10 Sep 2013 09:42:52 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/69841/why-arent-there-more-people-of-color-in-craft-brewing","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69855\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/brewers-michael-ferguson.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-69855\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/brewers-michael-ferguson.jpg\" alt=\"Michael Ferguson, of the BJ's Restaurants group, is one of only a small handful of African-Americans who make beer for a living. Photo: Greg Barna/Courtesy 'Beer Geeks'\" width=\"1120\" height=\"630\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Michael Ferguson, of the BJ's Restaurants group, is one of only a small handful of African-Americans who make beer for a living. Photo: Greg Barna/Courtesy 'Beer Geeks'\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Alastair Bland, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/09/06/219721800/why-aren-t-there-more-people-of-color-in-craft-brewing\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (9/10/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michael Ferguson sometimes jokingly refers to himself among colleagues as \"the other black brewer.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's because \u003ca href=\"http://www.bjsrestaurants.com/bj-beers/profiles\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Ferguson\u003c/a>, of the BJ's Restaurants group, is one of only a small handful of African-Americans who make beer for a living. Latinos and Asian Americans are scarce within the brewing community, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For the most part, you've got a bunch of white guys with beards making beer,\" says Yiga Miyashiro, a Japanese-American brewer with Saint Archer Brewery in San Diego.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sure, there are prominent exceptions — like Garrett Oliver, the brewmaster at Brooklyn Brewery, and Celeste and Khouri Beatty, the owners and operators of Harlem Brewing Company. There are a few others, too — but that's out of more than 2,600 breweries nationwide.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So how did American craft brewing end up so lacking in diversity?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a puzzle, agrees \u003cem>Wall Street Journal\u003c/em> beer reviewer and author William Bostwick, who is now working on a global history of beer to be titled \"\u003ca href=\"http://brewerstale.tumblr.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Brewer's Tale\u003c/a>.\" He says that virtually every culture in the world's human history has made alcoholic beverages.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's one of the few things that all cultures share, so why it's now dominated here in the U.S., and maybe in Europe and Australia, by white males is something I can't explain,\" Bostwick says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.babson.edu/Academics/faculty/profiles/Pages/opie-frederick.aspx\">Frederick Douglas Opie\u003c/a>, a food historian at Babson College, says that cultures in western and central Africa have \"a long history of artisan brewing.\" People of the region, he says, made beer from sorghum and millet, as well as palm wine – which, he says, was considered by some a luxury product.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"So, why that discontinues in America after the Atlantic slave trade, I don't know,\" Opie says. Blacks, he notes, often made moonshine liquor and bootleg beer in the 1920s and '30s. But these days, they're all but absent from the craft beer scene. \"It could be that beer is like a lot of things in the food industry which, as they grow popular, become very hip, yuppie and white.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Looking at the nation's community of homebrewers also sheds light on the matter, says brewer Jeremy Marshall, of Lagunitas Brewing Company.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69854\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/brewers-5-rabbit.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-69854\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/brewers-5-rabbit-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Andres Araya owns the 5 Rabbit Cerveceria in Chicago. He says "homebrewing doesn't really exist in Latin America." Photo: Courtesy Andres Araya\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Andres Araya owns the 5 Rabbit Cerveceria in Chicago. He says \"homebrewing doesn't really exist in Latin America.\" Photo: Courtesy Andres Araya\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Craft brewing is rooted in homebrewing,\" Marshall says. \"And if you look at homebrewing, you see nerdy white guys playing Dungeons and Dragons and living in their mom's basement, and I know this because I was and am one of them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Duke Geren, of the Portland, Ore., homebrewing shop F.H. Steinbart, says his shop's customer base is primarily white. People of other races and ethnicities – particularly the area's Ethiopian community — do purchase brewing supplies from the store, he notes. \"But we don't see this moving up into the commercial level,\" Geren says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2011, Andres Araya opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.5rabbitbrewery.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">5 Rabbit Cerveceria\u003c/a> in Chicago, which he says is the first Latin American-themed brewery in the United States. Araya says most American craft beers pay homage to the European nations that brought beer to America — especially Germany and England. Each of Araya's beers, though, is made using an ingredient from Central or South America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Araya, who has worked in Mexico's beer industry, says that \"homebrewing doesn't really exist in Latin America.\" And when Latin Americans immigrate into the United States, Araya says, very few start brewing beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But a few, at least, do.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Near Napa, Calif., \u003ca href=\"http://www.carnerosbrews.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Carneros Brewing Company\u003c/a> is owned and operated by a Mexican-American family. The brewery opened this summer and makes, among other brews, a wheat beer playfully named \"Jefeweizen.\" (\"Jefe,\" in which the \"j\" is pronounced like an \"h\" sound, is Spanish for boss.) Co-owner Amelia Ceja told The Salt that her company is one of three Latino-owned breweries in the country. (The Brewers Association, a Boulder-based trade group, doesn't keep statistics on the ethnicity or race of people in the industry and could not confirm this claim.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ferguson at BJ's — who hosted the first episode in a new television series called \"\u003ca href=\"http://beergeeks.tv/about\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Beer Geeks\u003c/a>\" this weekend — believes the lack of color in the brewing industry reflects a simple cultural preference: \"It seems to me that craft beer isn't a catch phrase among the black population.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With 1,600 yet-to-be-opened breweries now in their planning stages, according to the Brewers Association, perhaps the ethnic void in the beer world will begin to fill out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But for now, Ferguson says, \"we are an incredible minority.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It's mostly just me and Garrett Oliver,\" he says, somewhat jokingly. \"He really is like the Tiger Woods of brewing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/69841/why-arent-there-more-people-of-color-in-craft-brewing","authors":["byline_bayareabites_69841"],"categories":["bayareabites_301","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_12356","bayareabites_14326","bayareabites_14753","bayareabites_12352","bayareabites_16305","bayareabites_12353","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_69853","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"On Our Watch from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/onourwatch","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"1"},"link":"/podcasts/onourwatch","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1567098962","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/onourwatch","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0OLWoyizopu6tY1XiuX70x","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/On-Our-Watch-p1436229/","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/show/on-our-watch","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510360/podcast.xml"}},"on-the-media":{"id":"on-the-media","title":"On The Media","info":"Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. 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