San Francisco Expands Indoor Dining — and (Outdoor) Bar Reopening Will Follow
The Bay Area Restaurant System Was Always Broken. How Do We Fix It?
Decolonizing Food, from California to Palestine
Does a Loophole in Organic Standards Encourage Deforestation?
Obesity is Linked to Food Insecurity. SNAP Cuts May Make Both Worse.
At the Bayview Bistro, Local Food Entrepreneurs Nourish Community Resilience
How the Bay Area’s South Asian Diaspora Explores Diwali’s Multiplicity
In Male-Dominated Pizza Circles, Women Are Grabbing A Bigger Slice Of The Pie
Can Dry Farming Help Save California’s Vineyards?
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Held, \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/12/16/does-a-loophole-in-organic-standards-encourage-deforestation/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>","isLoading":false},"byline_bayareabites_135943":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_135943","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_135943","name":"Elsa Pearson","isLoading":false},"byline_bayareabites_135089":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_135089","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_135089","name":"Richard Morgan","isLoading":false},"civileat":{"type":"authors","id":"5583","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5583","found":true},"name":"Civil Eats","firstName":"Civil","lastName":"Eats","slug":"civileat","email":"twilight@civileats.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"\u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a> is a daily news source for critical thought about the American food system. We publish stories that shift the conversation around sustainable agriculture in an effort to build economically and socially just communities. Follow Civil Eats on Twitter \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/CivilEats\">@civileats\u003c/a> and on \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Civil-Eats/56766540637\">Facebook\u003c/a>.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8f6f50bfb6403afe7cbc194b66cc1d4d?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"CivilEats","facebook":"/pages/Civil-Eats/56766540637?ref=hl","instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Civil Eats | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8f6f50bfb6403afe7cbc194b66cc1d4d?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/8f6f50bfb6403afe7cbc194b66cc1d4d?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/civileat"},"owon":{"type":"authors","id":"11614","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"11614","found":true},"name":"Olivia Won","firstName":"Olivia","lastName":"Won","slug":"owon","email":"owon@kqed.org","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Olivia Won is a writer, producer, and plant-tender living in her hometown of Oakland, California. She currently works with KQED Food, where she writes about Bay Area food culture and produces \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. \u003c/span>","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a0ce8718461a291f08887a424d1ce561?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"checkplease","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["editor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Olivia Won | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a0ce8718461a291f08887a424d1ce561?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a0ce8718461a291f08887a424d1ce561?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/owon"},"rgebreyesus":{"type":"authors","id":"11625","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"11625","found":true},"name":"Ruth Gebreyesus","firstName":"Ruth","lastName":"Gebreyesus","slug":"rgebreyesus","email":"rgebreyesus@KQED.org","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":"Food Writer","bio":"Ruth Gebreyesus is a freelance writer and producer based in the Bay Area. Through stories across various mediums, Ruth explores the creation and consumption of cultural products. You can find more of her work \u003ca href=\"https://www.kotetakotet.com/\">here\u003c/a>.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/68980beab511750abbb1a58f1c768b45?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"root_g","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["subscriber"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["subscriber"]},{"site":"checkplease","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["editor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Ruth Gebreyesus | KQED","description":"Food Writer","ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/68980beab511750abbb1a58f1c768b45?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/68980beab511750abbb1a58f1c768b45?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/rgebreyesus"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_139329":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_139329","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"139329","score":null,"sort":[1603226174000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"san-francisco-indoor-dining-expands-and-includes-bars","title":"San Francisco Expands Indoor Dining — and (Outdoor) Bar Reopening Will Follow","publishDate":1603226174,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Francisco is expanding its reopening project with the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sfmayor.org/article/san-francisco-continues-reopening-expanded-business-operations-and-activities\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">announcement\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that the city and county has been designated in the yellow tier by California’s COVID-19 indicators. With the change in tier level, Indoor dining capacity will expand from 25% to 50% capacity for up to 200 guests. Outdoor drinking establishments will now also be allowed to serve beverages without food at this capacity starting some time in November. This marks the first occasion that bars are allowed to open and operate since the pandemic. A two hour limit will be enforced on patrons at eating and drinking establishments and televisions and other live entertainment are not allowed at this time. Restaurants and patrons are also expected to follow other safety measures including wearing protective equipment, leaving information for contact tracing, and for servers in particular, de-escalating with customers who do not obey these guidelines. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Although this is very good news, we want to emphasize that this movement toward further reopening can only continue if our community continues to adhere to the guidance given by the city and state to reduce transmission,” wrote Amy Cleary of the Golden Gate Restaurant Association via email. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We know that indoor dining is still not for everyone, be it diners or restaurants,\" Cleary continued. \"But as we move into our winter season, this is another critical step in the reopening process that provides real hope for survival for our San Francisco restaurant community.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The county’s yellow-tier designation brings increased capacity at restaurants and bars.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621631984,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":5,"wordCount":250},"headData":{"title":"San Francisco Expands Indoor Dining — and (Outdoor) Bar Reopening Will Follow | KQED","description":"The county’s yellow-tier designation brings increased capacity at restaurants and bars.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"139329 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=139329","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/10/20/san-francisco-indoor-dining-expands-and-includes-bars/","disqusTitle":"San Francisco Expands Indoor Dining — and (Outdoor) Bar Reopening Will Follow","path":"/bayareabites/139329/san-francisco-indoor-dining-expands-and-includes-bars","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Francisco is expanding its reopening project with the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sfmayor.org/article/san-francisco-continues-reopening-expanded-business-operations-and-activities\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">announcement\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> that the city and county has been designated in the yellow tier by California’s COVID-19 indicators. With the change in tier level, Indoor dining capacity will expand from 25% to 50% capacity for up to 200 guests. Outdoor drinking establishments will now also be allowed to serve beverages without food at this capacity starting some time in November. This marks the first occasion that bars are allowed to open and operate since the pandemic. A two hour limit will be enforced on patrons at eating and drinking establishments and televisions and other live entertainment are not allowed at this time. Restaurants and patrons are also expected to follow other safety measures including wearing protective equipment, leaving information for contact tracing, and for servers in particular, de-escalating with customers who do not obey these guidelines. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Although this is very good news, we want to emphasize that this movement toward further reopening can only continue if our community continues to adhere to the guidance given by the city and state to reduce transmission,” wrote Amy Cleary of the Golden Gate Restaurant Association via email. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We know that indoor dining is still not for everyone, be it diners or restaurants,\" Cleary continued. \"But as we move into our winter season, this is another critical step in the reopening process that provides real hope for survival for our San Francisco restaurant community.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/139329/san-francisco-indoor-dining-expands-and-includes-bars","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_17082","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_772","bayareabites_17001","bayareabites_17000","bayareabites_16549","bayareabites_16557","bayareabites_16601","bayareabites_16749","bayareabites_16860","bayareabites_92"],"featImg":"bayareabites_139330","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_137260":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_137260","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"137260","score":null,"sort":[1589930986000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-bay-area-restaurant-system-was-always-broken-how-do-we-fix-it","title":"The Bay Area Restaurant System Was Always Broken. How Do We Fix It?","publishDate":1589930986,"format":"image","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Before the COVID-19 pandemic, the Bay Area \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">food\u003c/span> industry was in a quiet but persistent crisis. The majority of \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">restaurant\u003c/span> workers earned far below a living wage for the region, even for jobs with tips factored in. Steadily rising residential and commercial rents meant that \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">restaurant\u003c/span> owners swallowed slim margins as an industry standard that would outlive their ambitions. Farmworkers across the state toiled from dusk until dawn with no employer or government safety nets to count on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then the pandemic hit and “everything changed,” said Mourad Lahlou, the chef and owner of Mourad and Aziza in San Francisco. “It shattered what was solid, and it exposed what was weak.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From farms to restaurants and workers, there’s a lot of uncertainty that hangs over food systems and its fragile infrastructure. Amidst the crisis, is there potential to rebuild a more equitable food industry? What solutions could address the flaws that predate the pandemic? These are the questions we asked seven Bay Area food figures who are grappling with long-lived issues magnified by a new reality.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Restaurant Dilemma\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou, chef and owner of Mourad and Aziza\u003cem>: \u003c/em>\u003c/strong>The problem is not so much when we're going to be able to open our restaurants again. What's going to happen is they're going to let us open at half capacity. People are going to be freaked out about sitting around other people. We're going to start taking temperatures of people who come in. We're going to start wearing gloves and masks and have disposable menus as if we were a business that had a big margin where we can afford to do these things. Our rent is going to be the same. The insurance companies are going to charge the same premiums. Minimum wage is still the same. It's incomprehensible to even think that anybody is going to survive this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If we don't really address these issues now in a very forceful way, I truly believe that the impact of this is going to last way beyond the vaccine or the eradication of this pandemic. That's what keeps me up at night. It’s so scary to me that only the big corporations are going to have the means and the possibility to open restaurants whenever they want, wherever they want. That desire for people to share their culture wherever they're coming from, I'm afraid that's going to go away and the diversity [of the industry] is going to be damaged.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137277\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137277\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-800x533.jpeg\" alt=\"Mourad Lahlou of Aziza and Mourad in San Francisco fears the pandemic and its aftermath will decimate diversity in dining. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-1020x680.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mourad Lahlou of Aziza and Mourad in San Francisco fears the pandemic and its aftermath will decimate diversity in dining. \u003ccite>(Jude Rywelski )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There were almost immoral conditions for people to be able to survive in cities like San Francisco where people could not even afford to live in the places they work. We, as a public and as operators, talked about it quite a bit, but we were never able to turn the corner on it. In return, we were squeezing everybody from the farmer to staff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote citation='Emiliana Puyana']'For some folks reopening their doors will be a similar investment to the investment they had to make when they opened their restaurant in the first place.'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Emiliana Puyana, Program Manager, La Cocina:\u003c/strong> What we've overwhelmingly seen at La Cocina is a reduction in sales and revenue, anywhere from 80% all the way up to 100%. The food industry is incredibly difficult. It's a business with such slim profit margins where seven to 10 percent is an industry standard. Commercial real estate in this town is untenable. That piece of the puzzle has played a big role in this effort to survive the crisis. The vast majority of businesses that cannot reach some sort of full rent abatement or meaningful rent negotiations with their landlords — it will be impossible [for them] to reopen. And that's not taking into account other outstanding loans that businesses might have, rehiring so many employees and restocking your kitchens. For some folks, reopening their doors will be a similar investment to the investment they had to make when they opened their restaurant in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a really difficult time, a time that puts a lot of people's livelihoods at risk. Not just the restaurant owners, but everybody that's employed within this industry. But it also allows this industry a chance to reassess and build a system that takes more factors into account. Not all restaurants are built the same. What a small mom-and-pop shop in the Mission needs might look very different than what a small mom-and-pop shop in [San Francisco's] Chinatown needs. It's not until we start really working together with the support of folks who can bring about change and fight on our behalf that we'll see the outcome we need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137278\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137278\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-800x568.png\" alt=\"Incubator La Cocina's is offering multi-meal food boxes to offset the severe fall in revenue its businesses have experienced.\" width=\"800\" height=\"568\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-800x568.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-160x114.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-768x545.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-1020x724.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung.png 1491w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Incubator La Cocina offers food boxes from its businesses to offset their revenue losses. \u003ccite>(Gene X Hwang / Orange Photography )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We are very fortunate to not have a \u003ca href=\"https://time.com/5404475/history-tipping-american-restaurants-civil-war/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">tipped minimum wage\u003c/a> here in the state of California. But at the same time, the vast majority of our employees in the food industry are not [getting] a living wage [and] restaurant owners are unable to bear any more weight on that front. I don't know what the answer is there, but it seems like we need to ensure that we have affordable housing and more of it so that we can keep folks wanting to work in this industry in our area, which was already a huge problem before this crisis hit. Will there be anybody willing to work for $15 an hour or $16 an hour, when they're going to need to be on a crowded train coming into cities to work from wherever they live in order to be able to afford housing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria Moreno, Community Organizer, Restaurant Opportunities Center\u003c/strong>: I feel really privileged and honored to be doing this work during this time. I feel like now more than ever an organization like ours has proved to be essential for workers. [We’re] getting funds out to people, answering people's critical questions [so they can] receive benefits for those who have benefits, advocating for those who don't receive any benefits, and uplifting the voice of workers from all sectors and from all socioeconomic backgrounds. It has felt really purposeful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote citation='Maria Moreno']'This industry is so fragile and there's so many people that depend on it. Why continue to pretend that it's not a professional career?'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This industry is so fragile and there's so many people that depend on it. Why continue to pretend that it's not a professional career? It is for so many. So why don't we treat it like that? I want an industry where we're considered a real professional career. We can send that message by providing paid sick time for everyone, [by] providing health benefits, by providing ways for people to save their money in the same way that other companies allow you to [make] investments.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Inequities that Predate the Pandemic\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shakirah Simley, Director of San Francisco's Office of Racial Equity: \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was a disaster before the pandemic. Public health emergencies exploit existing systemic inequalities across the board. Prior to the pandemic, one in four San Franciscans, that's over 200,000 people, were experiencing food insecurity. And now, [that] number has likely skyrocketed. We have existing food insecurity, we have people who are laid off and becoming newly food insecure. We have the particulars of the pandemics that make it hard to access food: transportation, the need to socially distance, the need to wear face covering, limitation on store hours and the impact that COVID-19 continues up the chain for our farmers, for our producers. In the Bay Area, we are surrounded by so much wealth. For us to be tackling such a baseline need and how much it has expanded is really intense.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside postid='bayareabites_136549,bayareabites_136564,bayareabites_136903' label='The Food Industry Adapts']\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't think just because we open again, it's going to go back to “normal.” This society was never normal for a lot of people. It was never normal for communities of color, for LGBTQI communities, for folks who are undocumented.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vincent Medina, co-founder, Cafe Ohlone:\u003c/strong> We come from this community that's had disease imposed as a weapon and weaponized against our people in the past. When we shut down [Cafe Ohlone], we knew that we had to turn that moment into focused work for our community: making sure that our elders [had] enough food, that our grandparents had what they needed; that people knew to prepare before grocery stores would be entirely swarmed; that we were able to find ways to provide culture to our community, even if it meant digitally; finding ways to share language, [and] spend this extent of time really searching through those old archives about ways that our community has historically responded to epidemics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137275\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137275\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-800x484.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"484\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-800x484.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-160x97.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-768x464.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-1020x617.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone.png 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino have convened with Cafe Ohlone staff digitally while focusing their attention towards caring for elders in their community. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cafe Ohlone)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Our Tribe, the Muwekma Ohlone Tribe, was historically recognized by the American government, called the Verona Band Alameda County and based on the Pleasanton Rancheria, which was the sovereign piece of Indian land in Pleasanton. That's where my great grandmother was born. As a result of UC Berkeley in 1925 erroneously writing that our people were extinct, in 1927 an agent from the Bureau of Indian affairs struck our Tribe off the list of recognized tribes. Ever since then, our Tribe has been working to have that federal recognition restored. What this means [is] that we don't have a protected land base where we could be able to live together as a community. Nowadays, what we do is we negotiate relationships with park districts. We negotiated gathering permits with certain East Bay regional parks [and] we've been able to gather our foods there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Louis Trevino, co-founder, Cafe Ohlone: \u003c/strong>The East Bay Park District and the Hayward Area Recreation District and other park districts in the area deciding to close trails and parks [where it is] difficult to social distance is a responsible thing to do, but it is also a way that the park districts are exercising the ability to lock the gates. [Doing so] excludes the most local indigenous people, Vincent's family here in the East Bay, the Muwekma Ohlone Tribe, from being able to go out into their ancestral places. It sheds light on the fact that even though today we have been able to negotiate leverage positive relationships with the East Bay park park district, that relationship still exists within a colonial framework.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote citation='Vincent Medina']'In this time of a slowdown, we can really dream and imagine.'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vincent Medina: \u003c/strong>We want to make sure that we're continuing to do what we do, where we gather our foods with prayer and gratitude. We feed our community and we teach the public. But we also know that whatever we're going to do into the future, it's going to have to move slowly, carefully and cautiously. And Cafe Ohlone, it’s not going to look exactly like what it did before the shutdown where the cafe was so full that we would have to turn some people away for that time and invite them back. One of the potential outcomes of all of this could be this beautiful transformative time where a lot of those flaws that are having light shed on them can be corrected and fixed. In this time of a slowdown, we can really dream and imagine right now as we're, as we're all stuck inside. We know that our wisdom as Ohlone people and the wisdom that our elders carry and teach is more needed right now than ever. It has the ability to teach us that there's a better way forward that can transform the faltering society that we're living in, into something that's much more meaningful and richer.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Finding Solutions and Leveraging Momentum\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shakirah Simley: \u003c/strong>Sometimes what you see within pandemics is that you can be more flexible and creative in thinking about recovery. Advocates have been working for half a decade to get people to be able to buy groceries online with food stamps, and it happened in a snap. I'm hoping [we keep] the flexibility and adaptability of some of these federal and state programs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm hoping there's a greater appreciation or direct relationships with people who feed you, from restaurant owners to farmers to artisans folks to your grocer. People are asking themselves, \"If our industrial food system fails, what can I get locally to help me meet this need?\" [The answer] is built on relationships.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of our local restaurants, farmers markets and grocers have rather been extremely adaptive. That’s really powerful and I hope they're able to sustain that model and so we'd have more community, neighborhood-based feeding models. Even from aunty who lives in one housing development making plates for everybody and delivering it door to door with plates wrapped in aluminum foil. That needs to be maintained. The industry itself is stepping up and being adaptive, but there's individual people who have stepped up to feed their neighborhood, and often for free.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou: \u003c/strong>The majority of the work we've been doing with [Bay Area Hospitality Coalition] is to help the community and our fellow industry people. But at the same time, it's been good for us because we are talking to each other. It's a therapeutic session every day where we cry one day, we yell one day, we laugh one day. We're supportive of each other and it's been really wonderful. I've never been closer to my chef or hospitality community as much as I am right now. One of the ideas that I had was to ask the federal or state government to compensate us if we're mandated to open at half capacity. To compensate the other half so that we are able to pay people what we're supposed to pay them. We are able to pay our rents without being harassed. We are able to pay our purveyors, our farmers without asking them to wait 30 days or 60 days before they get a check.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137273\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137273\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Restaurant Opportunity Center's Maria Moreno is working towards safety nets for undocumented workers in the restaurant industry. \" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Restaurant Opportunity Center's Maria Moreno insists service work in the restaurant industry be treated as a career. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Maria Moreno)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria Moreno: \u003c/strong>Right now we're working on a “right to return” policy to ensure that workers who were already hired by restaurants all over the Bay Area actually have a place to come back to. And not just in restaurants, but all kinds of jobs. The policy requires [businesses] to rehire laid-off workers before hiring other people. If they only need 50% of the staff that they had before, that's okay. They just have to bring back laid-off workers who have worked there the longest and in qualifications that they need until they have as many workers as they need. It's not asking businesses to take on more than they can handle.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Personal and Corporate Accountability\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Jocelyn Jackson, co-founder of People’s Kitchen Collective:\u003c/strong> People want to say “You have my thoughts and prayers,” or there's the feeling of wanting to do the hero worship [of] the folks that are on the frontline. I appreciate the intention of that, but what doesn't happen at that celebration of their sacrifice is acknowledging that the people deeply impacted by these capitalists or profit-driven decisions are being put in harm's way. It doesn't matter if we call them heroes if they can't also be supported in their humanity. And that means having the pay that respects the value of who they are, the safety equipment that they need, the healthcare that they need, the housing. To have the visibility that's required for our economy to totally, absolutely shift forevermore away from something that invisibilizes and dehumanizes them. Folks that are getting the support like the medical community, they deserve it, absolutely they do—but are food workers getting that same support? Are they getting the offers of free meals for a year? Are they being offered hotel rooms so they can quarantine so they don't put their families at risk? No, because the disposable nature of the food community is so entrenched in the habits of this industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote citation='Jocelyn Jackson']' It doesn't matter if we call them heroes if they can't also be supported in their humanity.'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Accountability is often achieved through watchdog groups—people taking the initiative and the personal responsibility to hold corporations accountable for their actions. There needs to be a new wave of that in the activist world. It's not simply mutual aid. It's not just the activism of protest. It's not an easy task. [But] it's essential because we're using this phrase “essential workers,” and it feels like a misnomer because of the treatment that they're experiencing. The essential quality is their humanity and for that to be lifted up and for that to be amplified is one of the biggest parts of re-shaping the food community so that it is supportive of everyone at every level and not filled with the dynamics of disposability.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137274\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137274\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">People's Kitchen Collective founders Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson have spent the past 10 years imagining and working towards more equitable food systems. \u003ccite>(Sana Javeri Kadri)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik, co-founder, People’s Kitchen Collective: \u003c/strong>We don't want this to return to the way things were, and it can’t. [People’s Kitchen Collective] is always in a state of change, but I think that in times of crisis, we are more ourselves and the problems bubble up in neon in a way that they demand more of our attention. As we make decisions about how it is that we feed ourselves and each other, one of the biggest challenges for me in this pandemic is the ways we are used to supporting our community could also be harmful in terms of gathering in large numbers. We're planning for future events including Life is Living and looking to distribute food instead of gathering together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have both hope and disillusionment around [the future]. I do think that this moment is about the alienation of labor laid bare and what that means for restoring our whole selves as people. [I] think about this question that a former student of mine, Marianna Martinez, asked me: “What are our jobs outside of capitalism?” What are we really meant to be doing? Are we meant to be caring for an elder in our family? Are we meant to be a writer? Are we meant to help people start gardens? How can more of our lives be taken up with the activities where we are the brightest? I would ask that if you are a person who is waiting for things to go back to normal, to think about all of the people for whom that is not true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's about asking those questions and they're difficult to reckon with in the face of so much real loss and real fear. It is so important to think about our collective survival in a way that truly supports, not just any one person, but how we can get there together because that's the only way we're going to get there.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Chefs and organizers respond to COVID-19 and imagine what future awaits the food industry. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621634313,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":35,"wordCount":3353},"headData":{"title":"The Bay Area Restaurant System Was Always Broken. How Do We Fix It? | KQED","description":"Chefs and organizers respond to COVID-19 and imagine what future awaits the food industry. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"137260 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=137260","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/05/19/the-bay-area-restaurant-system-was-always-broken-how-do-we-fix-it/","disqusTitle":"The Bay Area Restaurant System Was Always Broken. How Do We Fix It?","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/137260/the-bay-area-restaurant-system-was-always-broken-how-do-we-fix-it","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Before the COVID-19 pandemic, the Bay Area \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">food\u003c/span> industry was in a quiet but persistent crisis. The majority of \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">restaurant\u003c/span> workers earned far below a living wage for the region, even for jobs with tips factored in. Steadily rising residential and commercial rents meant that \u003cspan class=\"c-mrkdwn__highlight\">restaurant\u003c/span> owners swallowed slim margins as an industry standard that would outlive their ambitions. Farmworkers across the state toiled from dusk until dawn with no employer or government safety nets to count on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then the pandemic hit and “everything changed,” said Mourad Lahlou, the chef and owner of Mourad and Aziza in San Francisco. “It shattered what was solid, and it exposed what was weak.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From farms to restaurants and workers, there’s a lot of uncertainty that hangs over food systems and its fragile infrastructure. Amidst the crisis, is there potential to rebuild a more equitable food industry? What solutions could address the flaws that predate the pandemic? These are the questions we asked seven Bay Area food figures who are grappling with long-lived issues magnified by a new reality.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>The Restaurant Dilemma\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou, chef and owner of Mourad and Aziza\u003cem>: \u003c/em>\u003c/strong>The problem is not so much when we're going to be able to open our restaurants again. What's going to happen is they're going to let us open at half capacity. People are going to be freaked out about sitting around other people. We're going to start taking temperatures of people who come in. We're going to start wearing gloves and masks and have disposable menus as if we were a business that had a big margin where we can afford to do these things. Our rent is going to be the same. The insurance companies are going to charge the same premiums. Minimum wage is still the same. It's incomprehensible to even think that anybody is going to survive this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If we don't really address these issues now in a very forceful way, I truly believe that the impact of this is going to last way beyond the vaccine or the eradication of this pandemic. That's what keeps me up at night. It’s so scary to me that only the big corporations are going to have the means and the possibility to open restaurants whenever they want, wherever they want. That desire for people to share their culture wherever they're coming from, I'm afraid that's going to go away and the diversity [of the industry] is going to be damaged.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137277\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137277\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-800x533.jpeg\" alt=\"Mourad Lahlou of Aziza and Mourad in San Francisco fears the pandemic and its aftermath will decimate diversity in dining. \" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9-1020x680.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/5EB76FD2-3573-4525-917B-F09A3CC47FB9.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mourad Lahlou of Aziza and Mourad in San Francisco fears the pandemic and its aftermath will decimate diversity in dining. \u003ccite>(Jude Rywelski )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There were almost immoral conditions for people to be able to survive in cities like San Francisco where people could not even afford to live in the places they work. We, as a public and as operators, talked about it quite a bit, but we were never able to turn the corner on it. In return, we were squeezing everybody from the farmer to staff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"'For some folks reopening their doors will be a similar investment to the investment they had to make when they opened their restaurant in the first place.'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"citation":"Emiliana Puyana","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Emiliana Puyana, Program Manager, La Cocina:\u003c/strong> What we've overwhelmingly seen at La Cocina is a reduction in sales and revenue, anywhere from 80% all the way up to 100%. The food industry is incredibly difficult. It's a business with such slim profit margins where seven to 10 percent is an industry standard. Commercial real estate in this town is untenable. That piece of the puzzle has played a big role in this effort to survive the crisis. The vast majority of businesses that cannot reach some sort of full rent abatement or meaningful rent negotiations with their landlords — it will be impossible [for them] to reopen. And that's not taking into account other outstanding loans that businesses might have, rehiring so many employees and restocking your kitchens. For some folks, reopening their doors will be a similar investment to the investment they had to make when they opened their restaurant in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a really difficult time, a time that puts a lot of people's livelihoods at risk. Not just the restaurant owners, but everybody that's employed within this industry. But it also allows this industry a chance to reassess and build a system that takes more factors into account. Not all restaurants are built the same. What a small mom-and-pop shop in the Mission needs might look very different than what a small mom-and-pop shop in [San Francisco's] Chinatown needs. It's not until we start really working together with the support of folks who can bring about change and fight on our behalf that we'll see the outcome we need.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137278\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137278\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-800x568.png\" alt=\"Incubator La Cocina's is offering multi-meal food boxes to offset the severe fall in revenue its businesses have experienced.\" width=\"800\" height=\"568\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-800x568.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-160x114.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-768x545.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung-1020x724.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/LaCocina_GeneHwaung.png 1491w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Incubator La Cocina offers food boxes from its businesses to offset their revenue losses. \u003ccite>(Gene X Hwang / Orange Photography )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We are very fortunate to not have a \u003ca href=\"https://time.com/5404475/history-tipping-american-restaurants-civil-war/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">tipped minimum wage\u003c/a> here in the state of California. But at the same time, the vast majority of our employees in the food industry are not [getting] a living wage [and] restaurant owners are unable to bear any more weight on that front. I don't know what the answer is there, but it seems like we need to ensure that we have affordable housing and more of it so that we can keep folks wanting to work in this industry in our area, which was already a huge problem before this crisis hit. Will there be anybody willing to work for $15 an hour or $16 an hour, when they're going to need to be on a crowded train coming into cities to work from wherever they live in order to be able to afford housing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria Moreno, Community Organizer, Restaurant Opportunities Center\u003c/strong>: I feel really privileged and honored to be doing this work during this time. I feel like now more than ever an organization like ours has proved to be essential for workers. [We’re] getting funds out to people, answering people's critical questions [so they can] receive benefits for those who have benefits, advocating for those who don't receive any benefits, and uplifting the voice of workers from all sectors and from all socioeconomic backgrounds. It has felt really purposeful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"'This industry is so fragile and there's so many people that depend on it. Why continue to pretend that it's not a professional career?'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"citation":"Maria Moreno","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This industry is so fragile and there's so many people that depend on it. Why continue to pretend that it's not a professional career? It is for so many. So why don't we treat it like that? I want an industry where we're considered a real professional career. We can send that message by providing paid sick time for everyone, [by] providing health benefits, by providing ways for people to save their money in the same way that other companies allow you to [make] investments.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Inequities that Predate the Pandemic\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shakirah Simley, Director of San Francisco's Office of Racial Equity: \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was a disaster before the pandemic. Public health emergencies exploit existing systemic inequalities across the board. Prior to the pandemic, one in four San Franciscans, that's over 200,000 people, were experiencing food insecurity. And now, [that] number has likely skyrocketed. We have existing food insecurity, we have people who are laid off and becoming newly food insecure. We have the particulars of the pandemics that make it hard to access food: transportation, the need to socially distance, the need to wear face covering, limitation on store hours and the impact that COVID-19 continues up the chain for our farmers, for our producers. In the Bay Area, we are surrounded by so much wealth. For us to be tackling such a baseline need and how much it has expanded is really intense.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_136549,bayareabites_136564,bayareabites_136903","label":"The Food Industry Adapts "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't think just because we open again, it's going to go back to “normal.” This society was never normal for a lot of people. It was never normal for communities of color, for LGBTQI communities, for folks who are undocumented.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vincent Medina, co-founder, Cafe Ohlone:\u003c/strong> We come from this community that's had disease imposed as a weapon and weaponized against our people in the past. When we shut down [Cafe Ohlone], we knew that we had to turn that moment into focused work for our community: making sure that our elders [had] enough food, that our grandparents had what they needed; that people knew to prepare before grocery stores would be entirely swarmed; that we were able to find ways to provide culture to our community, even if it meant digitally; finding ways to share language, [and] spend this extent of time really searching through those old archives about ways that our community has historically responded to epidemics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137275\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137275\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-800x484.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"484\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-800x484.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-160x97.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-768x464.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone-1020x617.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/CafeOhlone.png 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino have convened with Cafe Ohlone staff digitally while focusing their attention towards caring for elders in their community. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cafe Ohlone)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Our Tribe, the Muwekma Ohlone Tribe, was historically recognized by the American government, called the Verona Band Alameda County and based on the Pleasanton Rancheria, which was the sovereign piece of Indian land in Pleasanton. That's where my great grandmother was born. As a result of UC Berkeley in 1925 erroneously writing that our people were extinct, in 1927 an agent from the Bureau of Indian affairs struck our Tribe off the list of recognized tribes. Ever since then, our Tribe has been working to have that federal recognition restored. What this means [is] that we don't have a protected land base where we could be able to live together as a community. Nowadays, what we do is we negotiate relationships with park districts. We negotiated gathering permits with certain East Bay regional parks [and] we've been able to gather our foods there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Louis Trevino, co-founder, Cafe Ohlone: \u003c/strong>The East Bay Park District and the Hayward Area Recreation District and other park districts in the area deciding to close trails and parks [where it is] difficult to social distance is a responsible thing to do, but it is also a way that the park districts are exercising the ability to lock the gates. [Doing so] excludes the most local indigenous people, Vincent's family here in the East Bay, the Muwekma Ohlone Tribe, from being able to go out into their ancestral places. It sheds light on the fact that even though today we have been able to negotiate leverage positive relationships with the East Bay park park district, that relationship still exists within a colonial framework.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"'In this time of a slowdown, we can really dream and imagine.'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"citation":"Vincent Medina","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vincent Medina: \u003c/strong>We want to make sure that we're continuing to do what we do, where we gather our foods with prayer and gratitude. We feed our community and we teach the public. But we also know that whatever we're going to do into the future, it's going to have to move slowly, carefully and cautiously. And Cafe Ohlone, it’s not going to look exactly like what it did before the shutdown where the cafe was so full that we would have to turn some people away for that time and invite them back. One of the potential outcomes of all of this could be this beautiful transformative time where a lot of those flaws that are having light shed on them can be corrected and fixed. In this time of a slowdown, we can really dream and imagine right now as we're, as we're all stuck inside. We know that our wisdom as Ohlone people and the wisdom that our elders carry and teach is more needed right now than ever. It has the ability to teach us that there's a better way forward that can transform the faltering society that we're living in, into something that's much more meaningful and richer.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Finding Solutions and Leveraging Momentum\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Shakirah Simley: \u003c/strong>Sometimes what you see within pandemics is that you can be more flexible and creative in thinking about recovery. Advocates have been working for half a decade to get people to be able to buy groceries online with food stamps, and it happened in a snap. I'm hoping [we keep] the flexibility and adaptability of some of these federal and state programs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'm hoping there's a greater appreciation or direct relationships with people who feed you, from restaurant owners to farmers to artisans folks to your grocer. People are asking themselves, \"If our industrial food system fails, what can I get locally to help me meet this need?\" [The answer] is built on relationships.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of our local restaurants, farmers markets and grocers have rather been extremely adaptive. That’s really powerful and I hope they're able to sustain that model and so we'd have more community, neighborhood-based feeding models. Even from aunty who lives in one housing development making plates for everybody and delivering it door to door with plates wrapped in aluminum foil. That needs to be maintained. The industry itself is stepping up and being adaptive, but there's individual people who have stepped up to feed their neighborhood, and often for free.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Mourad Lahlou: \u003c/strong>The majority of the work we've been doing with [Bay Area Hospitality Coalition] is to help the community and our fellow industry people. But at the same time, it's been good for us because we are talking to each other. It's a therapeutic session every day where we cry one day, we yell one day, we laugh one day. We're supportive of each other and it's been really wonderful. I've never been closer to my chef or hospitality community as much as I am right now. One of the ideas that I had was to ask the federal or state government to compensate us if we're mandated to open at half capacity. To compensate the other half so that we are able to pay people what we're supposed to pay them. We are able to pay our rents without being harassed. We are able to pay our purveyors, our farmers without asking them to wait 30 days or 60 days before they get a check.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137273\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137273\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Restaurant Opportunity Center's Maria Moreno is working towards safety nets for undocumented workers in the restaurant industry. \" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/MVIMG_20180920_143505.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Restaurant Opportunity Center's Maria Moreno insists service work in the restaurant industry be treated as a career. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Maria Moreno)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Maria Moreno: \u003c/strong>Right now we're working on a “right to return” policy to ensure that workers who were already hired by restaurants all over the Bay Area actually have a place to come back to. And not just in restaurants, but all kinds of jobs. The policy requires [businesses] to rehire laid-off workers before hiring other people. If they only need 50% of the staff that they had before, that's okay. They just have to bring back laid-off workers who have worked there the longest and in qualifications that they need until they have as many workers as they need. It's not asking businesses to take on more than they can handle.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Personal and Corporate Accountability\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Jocelyn Jackson, co-founder of People’s Kitchen Collective:\u003c/strong> People want to say “You have my thoughts and prayers,” or there's the feeling of wanting to do the hero worship [of] the folks that are on the frontline. I appreciate the intention of that, but what doesn't happen at that celebration of their sacrifice is acknowledging that the people deeply impacted by these capitalists or profit-driven decisions are being put in harm's way. It doesn't matter if we call them heroes if they can't also be supported in their humanity. And that means having the pay that respects the value of who they are, the safety equipment that they need, the healthcare that they need, the housing. To have the visibility that's required for our economy to totally, absolutely shift forevermore away from something that invisibilizes and dehumanizes them. Folks that are getting the support like the medical community, they deserve it, absolutely they do—but are food workers getting that same support? Are they getting the offers of free meals for a year? Are they being offered hotel rooms so they can quarantine so they don't put their families at risk? No, because the disposable nature of the food community is so entrenched in the habits of this industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"' It doesn't matter if we call them heroes if they can't also be supported in their humanity.'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"citation":"Jocelyn Jackson","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Accountability is often achieved through watchdog groups—people taking the initiative and the personal responsibility to hold corporations accountable for their actions. There needs to be a new wave of that in the activist world. It's not simply mutual aid. It's not just the activism of protest. It's not an easy task. [But] it's essential because we're using this phrase “essential workers,” and it feels like a misnomer because of the treatment that they're experiencing. The essential quality is their humanity and for that to be lifted up and for that to be amplified is one of the biggest parts of re-shaping the food community so that it is supportive of everyone at every level and not filled with the dynamics of disposability.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_137274\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-137274\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-800x1200.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"1200\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-768x1152.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136-1020x1530.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/05/PKCKitchen136.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">People's Kitchen Collective founders Saqib Keval, Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik and Jocelyn Jackson have spent the past 10 years imagining and working towards more equitable food systems. \u003ccite>(Sana Javeri Kadri)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sita Kuratomi Bhaumik, co-founder, People’s Kitchen Collective: \u003c/strong>We don't want this to return to the way things were, and it can’t. [People’s Kitchen Collective] is always in a state of change, but I think that in times of crisis, we are more ourselves and the problems bubble up in neon in a way that they demand more of our attention. As we make decisions about how it is that we feed ourselves and each other, one of the biggest challenges for me in this pandemic is the ways we are used to supporting our community could also be harmful in terms of gathering in large numbers. We're planning for future events including Life is Living and looking to distribute food instead of gathering together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have both hope and disillusionment around [the future]. I do think that this moment is about the alienation of labor laid bare and what that means for restoring our whole selves as people. [I] think about this question that a former student of mine, Marianna Martinez, asked me: “What are our jobs outside of capitalism?” What are we really meant to be doing? Are we meant to be caring for an elder in our family? Are we meant to be a writer? Are we meant to help people start gardens? How can more of our lives be taken up with the activities where we are the brightest? I would ask that if you are a person who is waiting for things to go back to normal, to think about all of the people for whom that is not true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's about asking those questions and they're difficult to reckon with in the face of so much real loss and real fear. It is so important to think about our collective survival in a way that truly supports, not just any one person, but how we can get there together because that's the only way we're going to get there.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/137260/the-bay-area-restaurant-system-was-always-broken-how-do-we-fix-it","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_17082","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_595","bayareabites_16607","bayareabites_16575","bayareabites_16557","bayareabites_16603","bayareabites_16604","bayareabites_295","bayareabites_16605","bayareabites_8790","bayareabites_289","bayareabites_16602","bayareabites_15822","bayareabites_16606","bayareabites_16608","bayareabites_8577"],"featImg":"bayareabites_137282","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_136164":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_136164","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"136164","score":null,"sort":[1580256027000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"decolonizing-food-from-california-to-palestine","title":"Decolonizing Food, from California to Palestine","publishDate":1580256027,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Saturday afternoon at the Museum of African Diaspora, Reem Assil served guests warm bowls of zibdiyit gambari, a rich Palestinian tomato and shrimp stew spiced with dill and cumin. In its Gazan birthplace, the dish has become a rarity. Israeli naval blockades have limited fishing along Gaza, the state’s only coast, driving the cost of seafood way beyond what most Palestinians can afford.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s with this in mind that Assil, who is of Palestinian and Syrian descent, prepared zibdiyit gambari for \u003ca href=\"https://www.moadsf.org/event/chef-in-residence-bryant-terry-presents-decolonize-your-food/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Decolonize Your Food\u003c/a>, a program organized by \u003ca href=\"https://www.moadsf.org/chef-in-residence/\">Bryant Terry\u003c/a>, MoAD’s Chef in Residence, in conjunction with Middle East Children’s Alliance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the lobby of MoAD, Assil presented a survey of Palestinian cuisine including her deeply craveable version of musakhan, Palestine’s celebrated roasted chicken dish served over flatbread and an assortment of ful and hummus with pomegranates and crushed peppers to top. Each dish was served next to a stack of notecards describing its origin and cultural significance in Palestine’s current state.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136168\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136168\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/decolonizefood_1.jpg\" alt=\"Zibdiyit gambari, a Palestinian tomato and shrimp stew, has been made a rarity due to fishing restrictions in Gaza. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1207\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/decolonizefood_1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/decolonizefood_1-160x101.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/decolonizefood_1-800x503.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/decolonizefood_1-768x483.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/decolonizefood_1-1020x641.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zibdiyit gambari, a Palestinian tomato and shrimp stew, has been made a rarity due to fishing restrictions in Gaza. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With full bellies and probing minds, guests left the meal to witness a conversation between Assil; \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/gazamom?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Laila el-Haddad\u003c/a>, author of the seminal book, \u003ci>The Gaza Kitchen: A Palestinian Culinary Journey\u003c/i>; and \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ShakSimley\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Shakirah Simley\u003c/a>, writer, organizer and newly appointed director of San Francisco’s Office for Racial Equity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drawing on the kinship between the Palestinian movement for sovereignty and the fight for Civil Rights in the United States, the dialogue between Assil, el-Haddad and Simley honed in on the historical origins of social inequities that cause food insecurity and cultural erasure of cuisines and their cooks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though the two places rooting the conversation are thousands of miles apart, the speakers noted how land loss (especially of farmland), displacement and state violence have created similar circumstances for both black and brown Americans and Palestinians. Lack of clean water, inadequate access to fresh produce and inequitable employment opportunities resonated amongst the group. The women framed the parallels as an opportunity for solution sharing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If you solve for black people, you solve for everyone because you’re getting at deeply rooted causes,” said Simley. Food sovereignty, she emphasized, is unachievable without addressing redlining and other forms of institutionalized racism. Simley, who has organized around food justice for over a decade, noted that the city of San Francisco was behind many other major cities, including Oakland, in creating an office of racial inequity. All this despite the city's rapidly declining black population and the resulting attrition of black owned businesses—especially restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136170\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136170\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/Fox-Nakai-10.jpg\" alt=\"Shakirah Simley was recently appointed as the director of the Office of Racial Equity for the City and County of San Francisco.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/Fox-Nakai-10.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/Fox-Nakai-10-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/Fox-Nakai-10-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/Fox-Nakai-10-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/Fox-Nakai-10-1020x680.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shakirah Simley was recently appointed as the director of the Office of Racial Equity for the City and County of San Francisco.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Assil, who runs \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reemscalifornia/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Reem’s\u003c/a> in Oakland’s Fruitvale Village and is set to open a second location of her bakery and restaurant at the former Mission Pie location in San Francisco, spoke about both the challenge and commitment to pay workers at her restaurant a fair and living wage. Her organizing background informs much of how she runs her restaurant. She opens Reem’s up as a gathering space for conversations lead by Jewish Voices for Peace Bay Area and hosts pop-ups from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/qtvietcafe/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">QTViệt Cafe Collective\u003c/a> and Chicago’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hudasupperclub/?hl=en\">Huda Supper Club\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In el-Haddad's words, cooking can be “a quiet, daily resistance,” especially when done under the pressures she witnessed in Gaza. This felt especially true as she recounted a story from a Gazan woman who updated the author over Whatsapp on her efforts to make kousa mahshi, a Palestinian ground beef stuffed squash dish, over the course of a week. Once the woman got enough money for squash, she relayed that she hoped her husband had enough for ground beef. By week’s end, she joyfully shared with el-Haddad that they were able to gather all the ingredients needed to make the recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the Bay Area, home to decades of organizing for Palestinian sovereignty and the Black Panther Party’s radically compassionate Free Breakfast Program, these topics are not new. But familiarity with the theory of food equity has not totally informed praxis. Though organic and local are high in demand and supply, conversations around labor practices of farms and the restaurant industry are less urgent among the general population. More recently, native cuisines and indigenous food practices have come to the forefront thanks to the work of Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino of \u003ca href=\"https://www.makamham.com/cafeohlone\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Cafe Ohlone\u003c/a> in Berkeley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Simley noted, the story doesn’t end with organic kale. It continues with the person who picked that kale, whether they can afford to buy it themselves and the history of the land it was grown on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>A recording of the full conversation between Assil, Simley and el-Haddad is available \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksD9YcP2rMg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">here\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"At the Museum of the African Diaspora, Reem Assil, Shakirah Simley and Laila el-Haddad shared solutions for food insecurity and cultural erasure. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1580267348,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":14,"wordCount":833},"headData":{"title":"Decolonizing Food, from California to Palestine | KQED","description":"At the Museum of the African Diaspora, Reem Assil, Shakirah Simley and Laila el-Haddad shared solutions for food insecurity and cultural erasure. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"136164 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=136164","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/01/28/decolonizing-food-from-california-to-palestine/","disqusTitle":"Decolonizing Food, from California to Palestine","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/136164/decolonizing-food-from-california-to-palestine","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Saturday afternoon at the Museum of African Diaspora, Reem Assil served guests warm bowls of zibdiyit gambari, a rich Palestinian tomato and shrimp stew spiced with dill and cumin. In its Gazan birthplace, the dish has become a rarity. Israeli naval blockades have limited fishing along Gaza, the state’s only coast, driving the cost of seafood way beyond what most Palestinians can afford.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s with this in mind that Assil, who is of Palestinian and Syrian descent, prepared zibdiyit gambari for \u003ca href=\"https://www.moadsf.org/event/chef-in-residence-bryant-terry-presents-decolonize-your-food/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Decolonize Your Food\u003c/a>, a program organized by \u003ca href=\"https://www.moadsf.org/chef-in-residence/\">Bryant Terry\u003c/a>, MoAD’s Chef in Residence, in conjunction with Middle East Children’s Alliance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the lobby of MoAD, Assil presented a survey of Palestinian cuisine including her deeply craveable version of musakhan, Palestine’s celebrated roasted chicken dish served over flatbread and an assortment of ful and hummus with pomegranates and crushed peppers to top. Each dish was served next to a stack of notecards describing its origin and cultural significance in Palestine’s current state.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136168\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136168\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/decolonizefood_1.jpg\" alt=\"Zibdiyit gambari, a Palestinian tomato and shrimp stew, has been made a rarity due to fishing restrictions in Gaza. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1207\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/decolonizefood_1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/decolonizefood_1-160x101.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/decolonizefood_1-800x503.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/decolonizefood_1-768x483.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/decolonizefood_1-1020x641.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zibdiyit gambari, a Palestinian tomato and shrimp stew, has been made a rarity due to fishing restrictions in Gaza. \u003ccite>(Ruth Gebreyesus)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With full bellies and probing minds, guests left the meal to witness a conversation between Assil; \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/gazamom?lang=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Laila el-Haddad\u003c/a>, author of the seminal book, \u003ci>The Gaza Kitchen: A Palestinian Culinary Journey\u003c/i>; and \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ShakSimley\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Shakirah Simley\u003c/a>, writer, organizer and newly appointed director of San Francisco’s Office for Racial Equity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drawing on the kinship between the Palestinian movement for sovereignty and the fight for Civil Rights in the United States, the dialogue between Assil, el-Haddad and Simley honed in on the historical origins of social inequities that cause food insecurity and cultural erasure of cuisines and their cooks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though the two places rooting the conversation are thousands of miles apart, the speakers noted how land loss (especially of farmland), displacement and state violence have created similar circumstances for both black and brown Americans and Palestinians. Lack of clean water, inadequate access to fresh produce and inequitable employment opportunities resonated amongst the group. The women framed the parallels as an opportunity for solution sharing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If you solve for black people, you solve for everyone because you’re getting at deeply rooted causes,” said Simley. Food sovereignty, she emphasized, is unachievable without addressing redlining and other forms of institutionalized racism. Simley, who has organized around food justice for over a decade, noted that the city of San Francisco was behind many other major cities, including Oakland, in creating an office of racial inequity. All this despite the city's rapidly declining black population and the resulting attrition of black owned businesses—especially restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_136170\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-136170\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/Fox-Nakai-10.jpg\" alt=\"Shakirah Simley was recently appointed as the director of the Office of Racial Equity for the City and County of San Francisco.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/Fox-Nakai-10.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/Fox-Nakai-10-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/Fox-Nakai-10-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/Fox-Nakai-10-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/01/Fox-Nakai-10-1020x680.jpg 1020w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shakirah Simley was recently appointed as the director of the Office of Racial Equity for the City and County of San Francisco.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Assil, who runs \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/reemscalifornia/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Reem’s\u003c/a> in Oakland’s Fruitvale Village and is set to open a second location of her bakery and restaurant at the former Mission Pie location in San Francisco, spoke about both the challenge and commitment to pay workers at her restaurant a fair and living wage. Her organizing background informs much of how she runs her restaurant. She opens Reem’s up as a gathering space for conversations lead by Jewish Voices for Peace Bay Area and hosts pop-ups from \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/qtvietcafe/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">QTViệt Cafe Collective\u003c/a> and Chicago’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hudasupperclub/?hl=en\">Huda Supper Club\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In el-Haddad's words, cooking can be “a quiet, daily resistance,” especially when done under the pressures she witnessed in Gaza. This felt especially true as she recounted a story from a Gazan woman who updated the author over Whatsapp on her efforts to make kousa mahshi, a Palestinian ground beef stuffed squash dish, over the course of a week. Once the woman got enough money for squash, she relayed that she hoped her husband had enough for ground beef. By week’s end, she joyfully shared with el-Haddad that they were able to gather all the ingredients needed to make the recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the Bay Area, home to decades of organizing for Palestinian sovereignty and the Black Panther Party’s radically compassionate Free Breakfast Program, these topics are not new. But familiarity with the theory of food equity has not totally informed praxis. Though organic and local are high in demand and supply, conversations around labor practices of farms and the restaurant industry are less urgent among the general population. More recently, native cuisines and indigenous food practices have come to the forefront thanks to the work of Vincent Medina and Louis Trevino of \u003ca href=\"https://www.makamham.com/cafeohlone\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Cafe Ohlone\u003c/a> in Berkeley.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As Simley noted, the story doesn’t end with organic kale. It continues with the person who picked that kale, whether they can afford to buy it themselves and the history of the land it was grown on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>A recording of the full conversation between Assil, Simley and el-Haddad is available \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksD9YcP2rMg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">here\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/136164/decolonizing-food-from-california-to-palestine","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_9094","bayareabites_11889","bayareabites_10261","bayareabites_15552","bayareabites_15551","bayareabites_12297"],"featImg":"bayareabites_136166","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_135987":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_135987","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"135987","score":null,"sort":[1576692007000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"does-a-loophole-in-organic-standards-encourage-deforestation","title":"Does a Loophole in Organic Standards Encourage Deforestation?","publishDate":1576692007,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Many shoppers have heard about the high environmental costs of palm oil. Take, for example, the fact that much of Indonesia’s lush rainforests have been cleared to plant palm fruit trees, causing a steep \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2018/11/20/magazine/palm-oil-borneo-climate-catastrophe.html\">spike in carbon emissions\u003c/a> and destroying habitats that were home to endangered species such as \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2018/may/10/palm-oil-orangutans-multinationals-promises-deforestation\">the orangutan\u003c/a>. But many consumers also likely assume that buying products made with organic palm oil eliminates those costs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet, the U. S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Organic seal doesn’t guarantee that rainforests were not destroyed in order to produce palm oil—or any other raw ingredient. That’s because of a loophole in the USDA organic standards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_134729']“You can look on a lot of organic [food] packaging and see that palm oil is used, and we as consumers have no idea [whether its production involved deforestation],” said Jo Ann Baumgartner, executive director of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.wildfarmalliance.org/\">Wild Farm Alliance\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The same conundrum applies to the recent Amazon fires, she adds. Farmers who want to grow organic crops “could burn down the forest and get certification the next day.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whether in Indonesia, the Amazon, or here in the U.S., USDA organic regulations mandate that farmers must “maintain or improve the natural resources” on their farms, but there is no written requirement that addresses the natural resources that existed \u003cem>before\u003c/em> the farm was established.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the standards do require that conventional farmland cannot be certified until it has been farmed without synthetic pesticides or fertilizers for three years. In some places, that three-year transition—in which the farm often has greater costs and sees a drop in yields—has essentially created an unwritten economic incentive to clear untouched ecosystems. In other words, if land that has never been farmed can be certified right away, it’s more profitable to farm that to wait three years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many farmers choose to grow food organically because they believe in the environmental and health benefits and consider the destruction of vulnerable ecosystems anathema to the label’s promise. But as organic has become big business, companies that are in it for the higher profits have often pounced on shortcuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Right now, we basically encourage [ecosystem destruction in the name of organic],” said Harriet Behar, an organic farmer, educator, and current member of the National Organic Standards Board (NOSB). “It’s incredibly important that we protect… the last of these pristine and incredibly diverse and important ecosystems.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the past few years, the NOSB, which advises the USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP) on changes to the regulations, has been working to fix that loophole. In 2018, it \u003ca href=\"https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/CACSNativeEcosystems.pdf\">passed a formal recommendation\u003c/a> on “Eliminating the Incentive to Convert Native Ecosystems to Organic Production,” but NOP has not moved forward on taking it through the rulemaking process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Under President Trump’s administration, there has been considerable friction between the organic industry and the NOP, which has been moving very few NOSB recommendations forward and has reversed course on some issues. It \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2017/12/18/years-in-the-making-trumps-usda-kills-organic-animal-welfare-rules/\">reversed a widely supported update\u003c/a> to animal welfare rules for organic meat production, for example, and slowed down an update to \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/08/13/small-organic-dairy-farmers-say-the-rules-are-stacked-against-them-one-rule-in-particular/\">a rule affecting small dairy farmers\u003c/a> by reopening it for comment rather than finalizing it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While it’s not clear when or if the ecosystem loophole will get addressed, advocacy and industry organizations are working in the meantime on projects to help organic farmers maintain natural ecosystems and increase biodiversity on the land they’re already farming.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Grappling with Unintended Consequences\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>According to Baumgartner, NOSB members brought up the issue of ecosystem destruction for organic production as early as 2009. However, the Wild Farm Alliance began leading the charge to address the issue within the last few years, and it was on the NOSB agenda for three meetings in 2017 and 2018.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In \u003ca href=\"https://d3n8a8pro7vhmx.cloudfront.net/wildfarmalliance/pages/286/attachments/original/1501526136/WFA___Partner_NOSB_Comments_3.30.17_%282%29.pdf?1501526136\">comments\u003c/a> provided to the NOSB, Wild Farm Alliance provided examples of situations that demonstrated the need to close the loophole, referencing reports and anonymous comments from individuals in its network.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_121110']“This summer I witnessed the tilling of native short grass prairie in the western Colorado Plains…to grow corn, milo, and wheat,” one organic inspector said. “In most cases the farmers are conventional farmers who are trying their hand at organic agriculture since they don’t have a conversion period.” Another comment described wetlands being drained and converted to organic vegetable production in New Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fix that NOSB ultimately proposed was that if land that included native ecosystems was cleared for farming, it would not be eligible for organic certification for 10 years, a waiting period the board hoped would disincentivize the practice since it was much longer than the three-year period for converting conventional farmland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While many issues invoke intense disagreement within the organic industry, the vast majority of individuals who submitted written comments and spoke at meetings supported the proposal. The diverse group of organizations included Consumers Union, the National Wildlife Federation, and the \u003ca href=\"https://ota.com/\">Organic Trade Association (OTA)\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There was support for this recommendation on the principle that organic farming should not result in destruction of native ecosystems. That’s the baseline, agreeable position,” said OTA farm policy director Johanna Mirenda. But OTA was one of many groups that had concerns related to the potential economic impact on small organic farms, particularly small dairies in the Northeastern U.S. that border forested areas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“These farmers are not choosing to log land because the conversion period is faster… it’s the only land that is available for them to expand onto,” said Britt Lundgren, the director of organic and sustainable agriculture at Stonyfield, at the Spring 2018 NOSB meeting. “The primary threat to the health of native ecosystems in the northeast is not agriculture. It’s development.” And if a farmer can’t develop the land themselves, they may sell to a developer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If organic agriculture is going to remain a viable business in the Northeast in the face of immense development pressure, organic farms need to be able to expand in the most efficient way,” Lundgren added.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maine organic farmer Jim Gerritsen also testified at the spring 2018 meeting, and his main concern was whether the rule change would allow the USDA to prevent farms like his from clearing forested land on their properties that had been farmed before but had grown back in recent decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_126036']On his 56-acre farm, Gerritsen cleared 37 acres of trees off of land that had been farmed in the 1960s. “We simply want to take the trees off of it and farm it. I know there are other farms in Maine in that situation, and they don’t have enough farmland to be viable,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Gerritson calls the idea of preventing native ecosystems from destruction “a laudable concept,” he adds, “sometimes when you come up with a policy on a macro level, it works against the reality of the farm.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since most of the land owned by these farmers in the Northeast had been previously farmed, NOSB devised with a compromise: It updated the language in the new rule to define “native ecosystems” in a more specific way that they say will mean the 10-year waiting period would not apply to farmers like Gerritson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while other organic programs around the world have passed outright bans on converting native ecosystems, NOSB saw the 10-year waiting period as a way to make sure the rule did not discourage transitioning to organic more generally, especially since vulnerable ecosystems are routinely cleared to be farmed conventionally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, a farmer could buy land that had been previously cleared of a native ecosystem and was then farmed using chemical fertilizers and pesticides. If that farmer wanted to switch to organic and gain certification, an outright ban on that land ever being certified organic would prevent that. A 10-year waiting period would not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There needed to be a strong disincentive, but not so far that it could deter organic production altogether,” said the OTA’s Mirenda. “The ultimate goal is to have more organic production.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After updates to the language were made, the NOSB voted nearly unanimously in May 2018 to pass the Eliminating the Incentive to Convert Native Ecosystems to Organic Production recommendation. After a recommendation is made, it is NOP’s job to put it on the rulemaking agenda, develop a proposed rule, open it up for public comment, and then develop a final rule that incorporates those comments.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Fostering On-Farm Ecosystems\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>When asked about the recommendation, a USDA spokesperson told Civil Eats that the issue of native ecosystems isn’t currently on the rulemaking agenda and that the agency is primarily focused on the Strengthening Organic Enforcement and the \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/08/13/small-organic-dairy-farmers-say-the-rules-are-stacked-against-them-one-rule-in-particular/\">Origin of Livestock\u003c/a> proposed rules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some advocates, meanwhile, are working to strengthen the organic standard’s provisions on on-farm ecosystem preservation and natural resource stewardship in other ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, Wild Farm Alliance, located in Watsonville, California, near a number of large organic produce growers, worked on writing guidance that would help certifiers better evaluate whether organic farms are meeting the requirement to “maintain or improve the natural resources of the operation, including soil and water quality,” and the NOP \u003ca href=\"https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/NOP%205020%20Biodiversity%20Guidance%20Rev01%20%28Final%29.pdf\">published that guidance\u003c/a> in 2016.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In collaboration with the Organic Center, it also recently \u003ca href=\"https://www.organic-center.org/biodiversitytool/\">created a tool\u003c/a> that farmers and certifiers can use to track and improve biodiversity on farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='bayareabites_51586']“There are all kinds of studies showing that having more natural habitat in the agricultural landscape will increase beneficial biodiversity,” said Amber Sciligo, the manager of science programs at \u003ca href=\"https://www.organic-center.org/\">The Organic Center\u003c/a>, a non-profit organic research organization. And, she adds, more biodiversity on or beside the farm is known to be beneficial.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, one recent \u003ca href=\"https://advances.sciencemag.org/content/5/10/eaax0121\">study\u003c/a> found that more abundance and diversity of insects was associated with increased crop yields. Another \u003ca href=\"https://besjournals.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/1365-2664.13422\">study\u003c/a> found that increased biodiversity leads to larger bird populations on farms, and that while some birds can act as pests, they can also control other, smaller pests. Balancing the needs of different species—including some that may not benefit the farm in a simple or obvious way—is part of organic’s promise. And yet when it’s taken seriously, it pays off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Overall what we’re seeing at a regional level is that in most situations, the gains [of biodiversity]outweigh the costs,” said Sciligo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of the farmers who truly believe in and implement organic production methods live that reality day after day, Baumgartner said, which is one reason to ensure that the higher price point doesn’t inadvertently incentivize environmental destruction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There are many farms that have native ecosystems on their property that they’ve never destroyed,” she added. “We were hearing farmers say, ‘It isn’t fair that somebody else can cut down a native ecosystem. We’ve been conserving ours.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This article was originally published on \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/12/16/does-a-loophole-in-organic-standards-encourage-deforestation/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Some advocates are working to close a loophole that they say has created unintended consequences, including destruction of vulnerable ecosystems anathema to the label’s promise.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1576692007,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":39,"wordCount":1926},"headData":{"title":"Does a Loophole in Organic Standards Encourage Deforestation? | KQED","description":"Some advocates are working to close a loophole that they say has created unintended consequences, including destruction of vulnerable ecosystems anathema to the label’s promise.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"135987 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=135987","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/12/18/does-a-loophole-in-organic-standards-encourage-deforestation/","disqusTitle":"Does a Loophole in Organic Standards Encourage Deforestation?","nprByline":"Lisa Held, \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/12/16/does-a-loophole-in-organic-standards-encourage-deforestation/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>","path":"/bayareabites/135987/does-a-loophole-in-organic-standards-encourage-deforestation","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Many shoppers have heard about the high environmental costs of palm oil. Take, for example, the fact that much of Indonesia’s lush rainforests have been cleared to plant palm fruit trees, causing a steep \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2018/11/20/magazine/palm-oil-borneo-climate-catastrophe.html\">spike in carbon emissions\u003c/a> and destroying habitats that were home to endangered species such as \u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2018/may/10/palm-oil-orangutans-multinationals-promises-deforestation\">the orangutan\u003c/a>. But many consumers also likely assume that buying products made with organic palm oil eliminates those costs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet, the U. S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Organic seal doesn’t guarantee that rainforests were not destroyed in order to produce palm oil—or any other raw ingredient. That’s because of a loophole in the USDA organic standards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_134729","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“You can look on a lot of organic [food] packaging and see that palm oil is used, and we as consumers have no idea [whether its production involved deforestation],” said Jo Ann Baumgartner, executive director of the \u003ca href=\"https://www.wildfarmalliance.org/\">Wild Farm Alliance\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The same conundrum applies to the recent Amazon fires, she adds. Farmers who want to grow organic crops “could burn down the forest and get certification the next day.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whether in Indonesia, the Amazon, or here in the U.S., USDA organic regulations mandate that farmers must “maintain or improve the natural resources” on their farms, but there is no written requirement that addresses the natural resources that existed \u003cem>before\u003c/em> the farm was established.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, the standards do require that conventional farmland cannot be certified until it has been farmed without synthetic pesticides or fertilizers for three years. In some places, that three-year transition—in which the farm often has greater costs and sees a drop in yields—has essentially created an unwritten economic incentive to clear untouched ecosystems. In other words, if land that has never been farmed can be certified right away, it’s more profitable to farm that to wait three years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many farmers choose to grow food organically because they believe in the environmental and health benefits and consider the destruction of vulnerable ecosystems anathema to the label’s promise. But as organic has become big business, companies that are in it for the higher profits have often pounced on shortcuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Right now, we basically encourage [ecosystem destruction in the name of organic],” said Harriet Behar, an organic farmer, educator, and current member of the National Organic Standards Board (NOSB). “It’s incredibly important that we protect… the last of these pristine and incredibly diverse and important ecosystems.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the past few years, the NOSB, which advises the USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP) on changes to the regulations, has been working to fix that loophole. In 2018, it \u003ca href=\"https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/CACSNativeEcosystems.pdf\">passed a formal recommendation\u003c/a> on “Eliminating the Incentive to Convert Native Ecosystems to Organic Production,” but NOP has not moved forward on taking it through the rulemaking process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Under President Trump’s administration, there has been considerable friction between the organic industry and the NOP, which has been moving very few NOSB recommendations forward and has reversed course on some issues. It \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2017/12/18/years-in-the-making-trumps-usda-kills-organic-animal-welfare-rules/\">reversed a widely supported update\u003c/a> to animal welfare rules for organic meat production, for example, and slowed down an update to \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/08/13/small-organic-dairy-farmers-say-the-rules-are-stacked-against-them-one-rule-in-particular/\">a rule affecting small dairy farmers\u003c/a> by reopening it for comment rather than finalizing it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While it’s not clear when or if the ecosystem loophole will get addressed, advocacy and industry organizations are working in the meantime on projects to help organic farmers maintain natural ecosystems and increase biodiversity on the land they’re already farming.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Grappling with Unintended Consequences\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>According to Baumgartner, NOSB members brought up the issue of ecosystem destruction for organic production as early as 2009. However, the Wild Farm Alliance began leading the charge to address the issue within the last few years, and it was on the NOSB agenda for three meetings in 2017 and 2018.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In \u003ca href=\"https://d3n8a8pro7vhmx.cloudfront.net/wildfarmalliance/pages/286/attachments/original/1501526136/WFA___Partner_NOSB_Comments_3.30.17_%282%29.pdf?1501526136\">comments\u003c/a> provided to the NOSB, Wild Farm Alliance provided examples of situations that demonstrated the need to close the loophole, referencing reports and anonymous comments from individuals in its network.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_121110","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“This summer I witnessed the tilling of native short grass prairie in the western Colorado Plains…to grow corn, milo, and wheat,” one organic inspector said. “In most cases the farmers are conventional farmers who are trying their hand at organic agriculture since they don’t have a conversion period.” Another comment described wetlands being drained and converted to organic vegetable production in New Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fix that NOSB ultimately proposed was that if land that included native ecosystems was cleared for farming, it would not be eligible for organic certification for 10 years, a waiting period the board hoped would disincentivize the practice since it was much longer than the three-year period for converting conventional farmland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While many issues invoke intense disagreement within the organic industry, the vast majority of individuals who submitted written comments and spoke at meetings supported the proposal. The diverse group of organizations included Consumers Union, the National Wildlife Federation, and the \u003ca href=\"https://ota.com/\">Organic Trade Association (OTA)\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There was support for this recommendation on the principle that organic farming should not result in destruction of native ecosystems. That’s the baseline, agreeable position,” said OTA farm policy director Johanna Mirenda. But OTA was one of many groups that had concerns related to the potential economic impact on small organic farms, particularly small dairies in the Northeastern U.S. that border forested areas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“These farmers are not choosing to log land because the conversion period is faster… it’s the only land that is available for them to expand onto,” said Britt Lundgren, the director of organic and sustainable agriculture at Stonyfield, at the Spring 2018 NOSB meeting. “The primary threat to the health of native ecosystems in the northeast is not agriculture. It’s development.” And if a farmer can’t develop the land themselves, they may sell to a developer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If organic agriculture is going to remain a viable business in the Northeast in the face of immense development pressure, organic farms need to be able to expand in the most efficient way,” Lundgren added.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maine organic farmer Jim Gerritsen also testified at the spring 2018 meeting, and his main concern was whether the rule change would allow the USDA to prevent farms like his from clearing forested land on their properties that had been farmed before but had grown back in recent decades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_126036","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>On his 56-acre farm, Gerritsen cleared 37 acres of trees off of land that had been farmed in the 1960s. “We simply want to take the trees off of it and farm it. I know there are other farms in Maine in that situation, and they don’t have enough farmland to be viable,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Gerritson calls the idea of preventing native ecosystems from destruction “a laudable concept,” he adds, “sometimes when you come up with a policy on a macro level, it works against the reality of the farm.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since most of the land owned by these farmers in the Northeast had been previously farmed, NOSB devised with a compromise: It updated the language in the new rule to define “native ecosystems” in a more specific way that they say will mean the 10-year waiting period would not apply to farmers like Gerritson.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while other organic programs around the world have passed outright bans on converting native ecosystems, NOSB saw the 10-year waiting period as a way to make sure the rule did not discourage transitioning to organic more generally, especially since vulnerable ecosystems are routinely cleared to be farmed conventionally.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, a farmer could buy land that had been previously cleared of a native ecosystem and was then farmed using chemical fertilizers and pesticides. If that farmer wanted to switch to organic and gain certification, an outright ban on that land ever being certified organic would prevent that. A 10-year waiting period would not.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There needed to be a strong disincentive, but not so far that it could deter organic production altogether,” said the OTA’s Mirenda. “The ultimate goal is to have more organic production.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After updates to the language were made, the NOSB voted nearly unanimously in May 2018 to pass the Eliminating the Incentive to Convert Native Ecosystems to Organic Production recommendation. After a recommendation is made, it is NOP’s job to put it on the rulemaking agenda, develop a proposed rule, open it up for public comment, and then develop a final rule that incorporates those comments.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Fostering On-Farm Ecosystems\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>When asked about the recommendation, a USDA spokesperson told Civil Eats that the issue of native ecosystems isn’t currently on the rulemaking agenda and that the agency is primarily focused on the Strengthening Organic Enforcement and the \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/08/13/small-organic-dairy-farmers-say-the-rules-are-stacked-against-them-one-rule-in-particular/\">Origin of Livestock\u003c/a> proposed rules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some advocates, meanwhile, are working to strengthen the organic standard’s provisions on on-farm ecosystem preservation and natural resource stewardship in other ways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, Wild Farm Alliance, located in Watsonville, California, near a number of large organic produce growers, worked on writing guidance that would help certifiers better evaluate whether organic farms are meeting the requirement to “maintain or improve the natural resources of the operation, including soil and water quality,” and the NOP \u003ca href=\"https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/NOP%205020%20Biodiversity%20Guidance%20Rev01%20%28Final%29.pdf\">published that guidance\u003c/a> in 2016.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In collaboration with the Organic Center, it also recently \u003ca href=\"https://www.organic-center.org/biodiversitytool/\">created a tool\u003c/a> that farmers and certifiers can use to track and improve biodiversity on farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_51586","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“There are all kinds of studies showing that having more natural habitat in the agricultural landscape will increase beneficial biodiversity,” said Amber Sciligo, the manager of science programs at \u003ca href=\"https://www.organic-center.org/\">The Organic Center\u003c/a>, a non-profit organic research organization. And, she adds, more biodiversity on or beside the farm is known to be beneficial.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, one recent \u003ca href=\"https://advances.sciencemag.org/content/5/10/eaax0121\">study\u003c/a> found that more abundance and diversity of insects was associated with increased crop yields. Another \u003ca href=\"https://besjournals.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/1365-2664.13422\">study\u003c/a> found that increased biodiversity leads to larger bird populations on farms, and that while some birds can act as pests, they can also control other, smaller pests. Balancing the needs of different species—including some that may not benefit the farm in a simple or obvious way—is part of organic’s promise. And yet when it’s taken seriously, it pays off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Overall what we’re seeing at a regional level is that in most situations, the gains [of biodiversity]outweigh the costs,” said Sciligo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many of the farmers who truly believe in and implement organic production methods live that reality day after day, Baumgartner said, which is one reason to ensure that the higher price point doesn’t inadvertently incentivize environmental destruction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There are many farms that have native ecosystems on their property that they’ve never destroyed,” she added. “We were hearing farmers say, ‘It isn’t fair that somebody else can cut down a native ecosystem. We’ve been conserving ours.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This article was originally published on \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/12/16/does-a-loophole-in-organic-standards-encourage-deforestation/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/135987/does-a-loophole-in-organic-standards-encourage-deforestation","authors":["byline_bayareabites_135987"],"categories":["bayareabites_13718","bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_13098","bayareabites_65","bayareabites_8913"],"featImg":"bayareabites_135989","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_135943":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_135943","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"135943","score":null,"sort":[1576520720000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"obesity-is-linked-to-food-insecurity-snap-cuts-may-make-both-worse","title":"Obesity is Linked to Food Insecurity. SNAP Cuts May Make Both Worse.","publishDate":1576520720,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>This op-ed originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/12/16/787793287/opinion-obesity-is-linked-to-food-insecurity-cutting-snap-benefits-may-worsen-bo\">NPR Food\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Elsa Pearson, MPH, is a senior policy analyst at Boston University School of Public Health. She's on Twitter \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/epearsonbusph?lang=en\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">@epearsonbusph\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The closest grocery store is a few miles away and your paycheck doesn't clear until Friday. You even skipped lunch. With no car, only a few dollars and kids at home, you decide dinner will have to, yet again, be the local fast food restaurant within walking distance. It's cost effective, but you're already bracing for the \"healthy weight\" conversation at the pediatrician's next month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over \u003ca href=\"https://www.ers.usda.gov/topics/food-nutrition-assistance/food-security-in-the-us/key-statistics-graphics.aspx#foodsecure\">11\u003c/a>% of all households in the United States are food insecure. They worry about running out of food and rationing what they do have. It is clear food insecurity leads to \u003ca href=\"https://www.healthaffairs.org/doi/full/10.1377/hlthaff.2015.0645\">poorer health\u003c/a>. Regardless of age, food insecure individuals are more likely to struggle with anxiety and depression. Children are at higher risk for asthma, malnutrition and cognitive problems. Non-elderly adults are more likely to have hypertension and diabetes, and seniors see limitations in their daily activities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The connection between food insecurity and obesity may seem less obvious. New data from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention show almost \u003ca href=\"https://www.cdc.gov/nchs/data/hus/hus18.pdf?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=newsletter_axiosvitals&stream=top\">one in five kids\u003c/a> in America is obese, with rates rising in adults to two in five, and recent research suggests the link between the two may be stronger than we think.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID='news_11789923']For example, in a small study of \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26377352\">2-to-8 year-old Hispanic children\u003c/a> and their mothers, being food insecure increased the chances the children would also be obese. A much bigger study including almost 10,000 \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25737437\">6-to-11 year-old children\u003c/a> found a similar connection. In adults, food insecurity has been found to be associated with a higher risk of obesity in \u003ca href=\"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0195666316310236?via%3Dihub\">white and Hispanic women\u003c/a>. (Interestingly, the researchers didn't find any link in men or black women.) Plus, after studying \u003ca href=\"https://www.huffingtonpost.ca/entry/first-nations-food-insecurity_ca_5dc32058e4b005513881f6ab\">Canada's First Nations population\u003c/a> for a decade, researchers linked higher rates of food insecurity to higher rates of obesity and diabetes when compared with the country's general population.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The connection now seems clear, but how does less food lead to more weight for some people?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One researcher suggests it's due to the \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/27126969\">scarcity hypothesis\u003c/a> — when food is hard to find, the body prepares by seeking calorie-dense food and storing up energy in fat tissue. Dr. Emily Dhurandhar from Texas Tech University argues that the overabundance of high-calorie food in a neighborhood isn't enough to magically cause obesity; there must also be a physiological signal to save energy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dr. Dhurandhar's theory may be hard to quantify or address through policy. However, certain neighborhood factors do increase an individual's likelihood of being food insecure and, it turns out, are also associated with a higher risk of obesity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, living in a food desert can negatively impact your health, putting you at higher risk of becoming overweight or obese. \u003ca href=\"https://www.ers.usda.gov/amber-waves/2011/december/data-feature-mapping-food-deserts-in-the-us/\">Food deserts\u003c/a> are low-income communities where stores to buy fruits, vegetables and other whole foods are either too far away or don't exist at all. Even when controlling for individual and household factors, such as diet and exercise or household education level, living in a food desert is linked to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26985622\">higher risk of obesity\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Research has shown that not only does distance to the grocery store matter, but so do the store's prices. Lower prices have been associated with \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22698052/\">higher rates of obesity\u003c/a>. That's because stores with higher prices place more emphasis on displaying and marketing healthy food, but their healthy food is then often unaffordable. Lower prices mean more affordable food — but also often lower quality and nutritional value.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lastly, living in a food swamp can also increase your risk of obesity. What food deserts lack in healthy options, \u003ca href=\"https://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2017/12/food-swamps/549275/\">food swamps\u003c/a> make up for in fast food and junk food; what's available is high in calories, sodium and sugar. Research suggests food swamps may actually \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29135909\">be better\u003c/a> at predicting local obesity patterns than food deserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the link between food insecurity and obesity is as significant as it seems, what can we do to fix it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First, we can improve the options available in food insecure neighborhoods, with an emphasis on fresh produce and whole foods. At the same time, we should work to lower the cost of healthy food and improve stores' marketing strategies. In fact, lowering prices may offer \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25217097\">more relief\u003c/a> than simply adding more grocery stores.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a broader level, federal policies can also alleviate individual barriers to good food. Food assistance programs, such as the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (\u003ca href=\"https://theincidentaleconomist.com/wordpress/proposed-eligibility-changes-to-snap-may-be-harmful-to-your-health/\">SNAP\u003c/a>) and WIC (a similar assistance program for mothers and children), and even Medicaid all help. The relationship between SNAP benefits and food insecurity is \u003ca href=\"https://www.healthaffairs.org/doi/pdf/10.1377/hlthaff.2018.05265\">clear\u003c/a> — those who lose their benefits become more food insecure. Research suggests that gaining \u003ca href=\"https://ajph.aphapublications.org/doi/10.2105/AJPH.2019.305168\">Medicaid coverage\u003c/a> through the Affordable Care Act also improves food security by alleviating health care expenses that previously diverted family resources away from food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the past year, the Trump administration has \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/10/04/us/politics/trump-food-stamp-cuts.html\">proposed\u003c/a> cutting back food stamp eligibility three separate times to save money. One of those rule changes, scheduled to take effect next April, may \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/12/04/784732180/nearly-700-000-snap-recipients-could-lose-benefits-under-new-trump-rule\">kick nearly 700,000 people off SNAP\u003c/a>. Doing so may help the federal budget, but it may also increase rates of food insecurity and \u003ca href=\"https://www.marketwatch.com/story/how-the-trump-administrations-proposed-food-stamp-cutbacks-could-worsen-the-obesity-crisis-2019-10-14\">fuel\u003c/a> the current obesity epidemic. As these two issues threaten the health of our communities, federal policies and community-based interventions are significant players in our fight to reduce the rates of both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">www.npr.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Over 11 % of U.S. households worry about running out of food and rationing what they have. Meanwhile, 2 in 5 adults is obese. Research suggests the links between the two are stronger than we think.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1576532463,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":19,"wordCount":940},"headData":{"title":"Obesity is Linked to Food Insecurity. SNAP Cuts May Make Both Worse. | KQED","description":"Over 11 % of U.S. households worry about running out of food and rationing what they have. Meanwhile, 2 in 5 adults is obese. Research suggests the links between the two are stronger than we think.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"135943 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=135943","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/12/16/obesity-is-linked-to-food-insecurity-snap-cuts-may-make-both-worse/","disqusTitle":"Obesity is Linked to Food Insecurity. SNAP Cuts May Make Both Worse.","source":"Commentary","nprImageCredit":"Danny Moloshok/Los Angeles County Department of Public Health","nprByline":"Elsa Pearson","nprImageAgency":"AP","nprStoryId":"787793287","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=787793287&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/12/16/787793287/opinion-obesity-is-linked-to-food-insecurity-cutting-snap-benefits-may-worsen-bo?ft=nprml&f=787793287","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 16 Dec 2019 11:20:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 16 Dec 2019 08:15:48 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 16 Dec 2019 11:20:38 -0500","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/135943/obesity-is-linked-to-food-insecurity-snap-cuts-may-make-both-worse","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>This op-ed originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/12/16/787793287/opinion-obesity-is-linked-to-food-insecurity-cutting-snap-benefits-may-worsen-bo\">NPR Food\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Elsa Pearson, MPH, is a senior policy analyst at Boston University School of Public Health. She's on Twitter \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/epearsonbusph?lang=en\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">@epearsonbusph\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The closest grocery store is a few miles away and your paycheck doesn't clear until Friday. You even skipped lunch. With no car, only a few dollars and kids at home, you decide dinner will have to, yet again, be the local fast food restaurant within walking distance. It's cost effective, but you're already bracing for the \"healthy weight\" conversation at the pediatrician's next month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over \u003ca href=\"https://www.ers.usda.gov/topics/food-nutrition-assistance/food-security-in-the-us/key-statistics-graphics.aspx#foodsecure\">11\u003c/a>% of all households in the United States are food insecure. They worry about running out of food and rationing what they do have. It is clear food insecurity leads to \u003ca href=\"https://www.healthaffairs.org/doi/full/10.1377/hlthaff.2015.0645\">poorer health\u003c/a>. Regardless of age, food insecure individuals are more likely to struggle with anxiety and depression. Children are at higher risk for asthma, malnutrition and cognitive problems. Non-elderly adults are more likely to have hypertension and diabetes, and seniors see limitations in their daily activities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The connection between food insecurity and obesity may seem less obvious. New data from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention show almost \u003ca href=\"https://www.cdc.gov/nchs/data/hus/hus18.pdf?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=newsletter_axiosvitals&stream=top\">one in five kids\u003c/a> in America is obese, with rates rising in adults to two in five, and recent research suggests the link between the two may be stronger than we think.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"news_11789923","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>For example, in a small study of \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26377352\">2-to-8 year-old Hispanic children\u003c/a> and their mothers, being food insecure increased the chances the children would also be obese. A much bigger study including almost 10,000 \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25737437\">6-to-11 year-old children\u003c/a> found a similar connection. In adults, food insecurity has been found to be associated with a higher risk of obesity in \u003ca href=\"https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0195666316310236?via%3Dihub\">white and Hispanic women\u003c/a>. (Interestingly, the researchers didn't find any link in men or black women.) Plus, after studying \u003ca href=\"https://www.huffingtonpost.ca/entry/first-nations-food-insecurity_ca_5dc32058e4b005513881f6ab\">Canada's First Nations population\u003c/a> for a decade, researchers linked higher rates of food insecurity to higher rates of obesity and diabetes when compared with the country's general population.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The connection now seems clear, but how does less food lead to more weight for some people?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One researcher suggests it's due to the \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/27126969\">scarcity hypothesis\u003c/a> — when food is hard to find, the body prepares by seeking calorie-dense food and storing up energy in fat tissue. Dr. Emily Dhurandhar from Texas Tech University argues that the overabundance of high-calorie food in a neighborhood isn't enough to magically cause obesity; there must also be a physiological signal to save energy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dr. Dhurandhar's theory may be hard to quantify or address through policy. However, certain neighborhood factors do increase an individual's likelihood of being food insecure and, it turns out, are also associated with a higher risk of obesity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, living in a food desert can negatively impact your health, putting you at higher risk of becoming overweight or obese. \u003ca href=\"https://www.ers.usda.gov/amber-waves/2011/december/data-feature-mapping-food-deserts-in-the-us/\">Food deserts\u003c/a> are low-income communities where stores to buy fruits, vegetables and other whole foods are either too far away or don't exist at all. Even when controlling for individual and household factors, such as diet and exercise or household education level, living in a food desert is linked to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26985622\">higher risk of obesity\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Research has shown that not only does distance to the grocery store matter, but so do the store's prices. Lower prices have been associated with \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22698052/\">higher rates of obesity\u003c/a>. That's because stores with higher prices place more emphasis on displaying and marketing healthy food, but their healthy food is then often unaffordable. Lower prices mean more affordable food — but also often lower quality and nutritional value.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lastly, living in a food swamp can also increase your risk of obesity. What food deserts lack in healthy options, \u003ca href=\"https://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2017/12/food-swamps/549275/\">food swamps\u003c/a> make up for in fast food and junk food; what's available is high in calories, sodium and sugar. Research suggests food swamps may actually \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29135909\">be better\u003c/a> at predicting local obesity patterns than food deserts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the link between food insecurity and obesity is as significant as it seems, what can we do to fix it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First, we can improve the options available in food insecure neighborhoods, with an emphasis on fresh produce and whole foods. At the same time, we should work to lower the cost of healthy food and improve stores' marketing strategies. In fact, lowering prices may offer \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25217097\">more relief\u003c/a> than simply adding more grocery stores.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a broader level, federal policies can also alleviate individual barriers to good food. Food assistance programs, such as the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (\u003ca href=\"https://theincidentaleconomist.com/wordpress/proposed-eligibility-changes-to-snap-may-be-harmful-to-your-health/\">SNAP\u003c/a>) and WIC (a similar assistance program for mothers and children), and even Medicaid all help. The relationship between SNAP benefits and food insecurity is \u003ca href=\"https://www.healthaffairs.org/doi/pdf/10.1377/hlthaff.2018.05265\">clear\u003c/a> — those who lose their benefits become more food insecure. Research suggests that gaining \u003ca href=\"https://ajph.aphapublications.org/doi/10.2105/AJPH.2019.305168\">Medicaid coverage\u003c/a> through the Affordable Care Act also improves food security by alleviating health care expenses that previously diverted family resources away from food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the past year, the Trump administration has \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/10/04/us/politics/trump-food-stamp-cuts.html\">proposed\u003c/a> cutting back food stamp eligibility three separate times to save money. One of those rule changes, scheduled to take effect next April, may \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/12/04/784732180/nearly-700-000-snap-recipients-could-lose-benefits-under-new-trump-rule\">kick nearly 700,000 people off SNAP\u003c/a>. Doing so may help the federal budget, but it may also increase rates of food insecurity and \u003ca href=\"https://www.marketwatch.com/story/how-the-trump-administrations-proposed-food-stamp-cutbacks-could-worsen-the-obesity-crisis-2019-10-14\">fuel\u003c/a> the current obesity epidemic. As these two issues threaten the health of our communities, federal policies and community-based interventions are significant players in our fight to reduce the rates of both.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">www.npr.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/135943/obesity-is-linked-to-food-insecurity-snap-cuts-may-make-both-worse","authors":["byline_bayareabites_135943"],"categories":["bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_181"],"tags":["bayareabites_13313","bayareabites_2613","bayareabites_11838"],"featImg":"bayareabites_135949","label":"source_bayareabites_135943"},"bayareabites_135597":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_135597","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"135597","score":null,"sort":[1574370690000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"at-the-bayview-bistro-local-food-entrepreneurs-nourish-community-resilience","title":"At the Bayview Bistro, Local Food Entrepreneurs Nourish Community Resilience","publishDate":1574370690,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> [aside postID='bayareabites_133959,arts_13836809' label='More on Food Entrepreneurs and Community Resilience']\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you walk near Bayview’s 3rd Street corridor around lunchtime, you’ll catch whiffs of barbeque before noticing the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bayviewbistrosf.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bayview Bistro\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. You’ll see Harold “Big H” Agee, the owner of Big H Barbeque, greeting almost everyone walking by, offering hugs and an infectious smile. His daughter and granddaughter are by his side, taking orders and assembling plates. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A lifelong Bayview resident, Agee has been sharing his love for barbeque through pop-ups and catering gigs for the past few decades but never occupied a regular space. That changed when Agee became one of the inaugural vendors at the Bayview Bistro, a new food hub for entrepreneurs with deep ties to the neighborhood. Since July, Agee has been at the corner of 3rd Street and Hudson Avenue three days a week with\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/soul__bowlz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Soul Bowlz\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/yespudding/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Yes Pudding\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135600\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135600\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harold-agee-2-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Harold Agee, owner of Big H Barbeque, preparing for the lunch rush.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harold-agee-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harold-agee-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harold-agee-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harold-agee-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harold-agee-2-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Harold Agee, owner of Big H Barbeque, preparing for the lunch rush. \u003ccite>(Olivia Won/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Before the Bistro, the privately-owned lot had been left vacant for the past decade. With the help of community demand, funding from San Francisco Public Utilities Commission’s contractors and The Mayor’s Office of Economic and Workforce Development and management by Andrea Baker Consulting, the lot was transformed into a gathering space in July 2019. With a colorful mural, picnic benches, and plenty of space to come together over food, the Bayview Bistro offers local Bayview food entrepreneurs a platform for growing their businesses. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">What makes the Bistro unique? Not just anyone can become a vendor. You have to be connected to the Bayview district, either by living, owning a kitchen, utilizing a commercial space, possessing a cottage food license or maintaining a brick and mortar presence in the neighborhood. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The place-based approach to selecting vendors intends “to make sure the local community that has been here for generations gets some of the first opportunities in the economic activity coming into Bayview,” says Tracy Zhu, the Social Impact Partnership Manager with the San Francisco Public Utilities Commission. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135602\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135602\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mural-3-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A colorful mural invites customers at the Bayview Bistro.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mural-3-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mural-3-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mural-3-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mural-3-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mural-3-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A colorful mural invites customers at the Bayview Bistro. \u003ccite>(Olivia Won/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Alexis Woods, the current Bayview Bistro Hub Manager, is a lifelong Bayview resident and the former manager at Isla Vida, the beloved Afro-Caribbean restaurant in the Fillmore \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Isla-Vida-closes-in-San-Francisco-s-Fillmore-14282540.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">that recently closed \u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">after a year of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/In-the-midst-of-rough-economic-waters-Isla-Vida-13709311.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">rave reviews\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. As a new, black-owned business in a gentrifying, historically-black Fillmore district, Isla Vida’s closure cut deep, especially for Woods, who had poured her heart and soul into building a community there. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bayview-Hunters Point has long struggled with \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sfmohcd.org/sites/default/files/FileCenter/Documents/911-BayviewHuntersPoint.pdf\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">economic disenfranchisement\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfwater.org/modules/showdocument.aspx?documentid=10879\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">harmful environmental conditions\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Now, the tide of gentrification is rising, bringing \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/San-Francisco-s-oldest-black-owned-bar-Sam-14544883.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">closures of black-owned businesses\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and skyrocketing property values. For Woods, this is exactly why the Bayview Bistro matters: “Finally, there’s somewhere they haven’t taken over yet. We now have somewhere we can sit and we can be a community. That means something because that’s what it used to be.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Still, the Bistro’s main goal isn’t to create a permanent space; the lot is slated for a mixed-use development project in a few years. Rather, Zhu says, it’s to find a way “to support growing small businesses to become sustainable in the long run.” This involves tailored technical help, which can “include menu creation and pricing, assistance registering as a city-approved vendor, and development of a marketing plan.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135601\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-135601 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/bistro-2--800x428.jpg\" alt=\"Customers gathering at the Bayview Bistro. \" width=\"800\" height=\"428\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/bistro-2--800x428.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/bistro-2--160x86.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/bistro-2--768x411.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/bistro-2--1020x546.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/bistro-2--1200x643.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Customers gathering at the Bayview Bistro. \u003ccite>(Olivia Won/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And the growth is visible. As Agee’s customer base has grown via word of mouth among barbeque fanatics on social media, so too have his operations. He’s gone from being cash-only to adopting a POS system and frequent eater punch cards. “To be able to shift from an informal vendor to the owner of a registered business [is] a huge deal in raising vendor’s profiles and putting them in different professional realms,” Zhu comments. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As the vendors phase out of the Bistro, their next steps will vary based on the specific needs of their businesses. Nima Romney of Soul Foodz will start appearing at SoMA StrEAT Food Park and plans on building a website for her catering business. Quanisha Johnson of Yes Pudding is stepping back from regular sales to focus on her business strategy with the goal of selling at farmers markets before opening a brick and mortar. Agee plans on building up his catering menu and continuing event pop-ups. Eventually, he hopes to acquire a barbeque trailer so he can take his cooking to hotspots around town, like the newly constructed Chase Center.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B3ur7yPBRQV/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As with most projects, there have been bumps along the way, including communication issues between stakeholders and a need for more foot traffic. But even with the challenges of building something from the ground up, Woods believes in it deeply. “It’s remarkable to be a part of the Bistro. No matter if it’s here for a year or if it’s here for five years,” she says. “Bayview is everything to me. My roots are in Bayview. I mean, who wouldn’t want to work right down the street from where they were born?”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Maybe that’s what makes the Bayview Bistro unique. It’s private-public partnership that believes in the power of food to strengthen community in a more radical way than any other food park in the Bay Area. It’s about people with connections to the neighborhood using food entrepreneurship to cement their rightful place in a rapidly changing Bayview, trying to come out of the transition better than ever. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As Harold Agee reflects, “To be starting my business in my community has been a beautiful thing. I just want to stick around and be a part of the change.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>About the New Vendors: \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://yosoyceviche.com/\">\u003cb>Yo Soy Ceviche\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Founded in 2018 by owner Nory Michelle, the concept of the Yo Soy Ceviche brand is traditional Peruvian recipes with a fusion twist.”\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.theveganhoodchefs.com/\">\u003cb>The Vegan Hood Chefs\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Ronnishia Johnson and Rheema Calloway are The Vegan Hood Chefs. They specialize in turning soul food and American style favorites into delicious vegan meals.”\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Rome's Kitchen\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Roman Rodgers grew up in the Bayview and started his business this year. Rome’s Kitchen specializes in Italian style soul food.”\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/bbqstop/\">Ron's Pit Stop BBQ \u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Ron Cain, resident of the Bayview, is the owner of Ron’s Pit Stop BBQ. He utilizes a food truck from Hunters Point’s Eclectic Cookery, San Francisco’s first and largest commercial kitchen.”\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/tacos-rodriguez-san-francisco\">Tacos Rodriguez\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Gerardo Rodriguez is the owner of Tacos Rodriguez and resident of Bayview Hunters Point. He specializes in Mexican food including tacos, burritos, and quesadillas.”\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bigh_bbq_pop_up/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Big H Barbeque\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> will stay at the Bistro for Phase 2. For up-to-date information about where to find \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/soul__bowlz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Soul Bowlz\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/yespudding/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Yes Pudding\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, consult their social media pages.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bayviewbistrosf.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bayview Bistro\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/5Tt3AyZQ7y8k6C5A7\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">4101 3rd Street\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Francisco, CA 94124\u003c/span>\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Every Thursday, Friday, and Saturday from 11 a.m. – 4 p.m.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the most up-to-date schedule information, visit the Bayview Bistro \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bayviewbistrosf.com/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">website\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Food entrepreneurs find deep community and economic opportunity through the Bayview Bistro.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1574707636,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":28,"wordCount":1260},"headData":{"title":"At the Bayview Bistro, Local Food Entrepreneurs Nourish Community Resilience | KQED","description":"Food entrepreneurs find deep community and economic opportunity through the Bayview Bistro.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"135597 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=135597","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/11/21/at-the-bayview-bistro-local-food-entrepreneurs-nourish-community-resilience/","disqusTitle":"At the Bayview Bistro, Local Food Entrepreneurs Nourish Community Resilience","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/135597/at-the-bayview-bistro-local-food-entrepreneurs-nourish-community-resilience","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_133959,arts_13836809","label":"More on Food Entrepreneurs and Community Resilience "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">If you walk near Bayview’s 3rd Street corridor around lunchtime, you’ll catch whiffs of barbeque before noticing the \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bayviewbistrosf.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bayview Bistro\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. You’ll see Harold “Big H” Agee, the owner of Big H Barbeque, greeting almost everyone walking by, offering hugs and an infectious smile. His daughter and granddaughter are by his side, taking orders and assembling plates. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A lifelong Bayview resident, Agee has been sharing his love for barbeque through pop-ups and catering gigs for the past few decades but never occupied a regular space. That changed when Agee became one of the inaugural vendors at the Bayview Bistro, a new food hub for entrepreneurs with deep ties to the neighborhood. Since July, Agee has been at the corner of 3rd Street and Hudson Avenue three days a week with\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/soul__bowlz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Soul Bowlz\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/yespudding/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Yes Pudding\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135600\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135600\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harold-agee-2-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Harold Agee, owner of Big H Barbeque, preparing for the lunch rush.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harold-agee-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harold-agee-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harold-agee-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harold-agee-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/harold-agee-2-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Harold Agee, owner of Big H Barbeque, preparing for the lunch rush. \u003ccite>(Olivia Won/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Before the Bistro, the privately-owned lot had been left vacant for the past decade. With the help of community demand, funding from San Francisco Public Utilities Commission’s contractors and The Mayor’s Office of Economic and Workforce Development and management by Andrea Baker Consulting, the lot was transformed into a gathering space in July 2019. With a colorful mural, picnic benches, and plenty of space to come together over food, the Bayview Bistro offers local Bayview food entrepreneurs a platform for growing their businesses. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">What makes the Bistro unique? Not just anyone can become a vendor. You have to be connected to the Bayview district, either by living, owning a kitchen, utilizing a commercial space, possessing a cottage food license or maintaining a brick and mortar presence in the neighborhood. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The place-based approach to selecting vendors intends “to make sure the local community that has been here for generations gets some of the first opportunities in the economic activity coming into Bayview,” says Tracy Zhu, the Social Impact Partnership Manager with the San Francisco Public Utilities Commission. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135602\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135602\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mural-3-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A colorful mural invites customers at the Bayview Bistro.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mural-3-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mural-3-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mural-3-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mural-3-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/mural-3-1200x800.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A colorful mural invites customers at the Bayview Bistro. \u003ccite>(Olivia Won/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Alexis Woods, the current Bayview Bistro Hub Manager, is a lifelong Bayview resident and the former manager at Isla Vida, the beloved Afro-Caribbean restaurant in the Fillmore \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/Isla-Vida-closes-in-San-Francisco-s-Fillmore-14282540.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">that recently closed \u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">after a year of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/In-the-midst-of-rough-economic-waters-Isla-Vida-13709311.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">rave reviews\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. As a new, black-owned business in a gentrifying, historically-black Fillmore district, Isla Vida’s closure cut deep, especially for Woods, who had poured her heart and soul into building a community there. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bayview-Hunters Point has long struggled with \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://sfmohcd.org/sites/default/files/FileCenter/Documents/911-BayviewHuntersPoint.pdf\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">economic disenfranchisement\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfwater.org/modules/showdocument.aspx?documentid=10879\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">harmful environmental conditions\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Now, the tide of gentrification is rising, bringing \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/article/San-Francisco-s-oldest-black-owned-bar-Sam-14544883.php\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">closures of black-owned businesses\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and skyrocketing property values. For Woods, this is exactly why the Bayview Bistro matters: “Finally, there’s somewhere they haven’t taken over yet. We now have somewhere we can sit and we can be a community. That means something because that’s what it used to be.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Still, the Bistro’s main goal isn’t to create a permanent space; the lot is slated for a mixed-use development project in a few years. Rather, Zhu says, it’s to find a way “to support growing small businesses to become sustainable in the long run.” This involves tailored technical help, which can “include menu creation and pricing, assistance registering as a city-approved vendor, and development of a marketing plan.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135601\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-135601 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/bistro-2--800x428.jpg\" alt=\"Customers gathering at the Bayview Bistro. \" width=\"800\" height=\"428\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/bistro-2--800x428.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/bistro-2--160x86.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/bistro-2--768x411.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/bistro-2--1020x546.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/11/bistro-2--1200x643.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Customers gathering at the Bayview Bistro. \u003ccite>(Olivia Won/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">And the growth is visible. As Agee’s customer base has grown via word of mouth among barbeque fanatics on social media, so too have his operations. He’s gone from being cash-only to adopting a POS system and frequent eater punch cards. “To be able to shift from an informal vendor to the owner of a registered business [is] a huge deal in raising vendor’s profiles and putting them in different professional realms,” Zhu comments. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As the vendors phase out of the Bistro, their next steps will vary based on the specific needs of their businesses. Nima Romney of Soul Foodz will start appearing at SoMA StrEAT Food Park and plans on building a website for her catering business. Quanisha Johnson of Yes Pudding is stepping back from regular sales to focus on her business strategy with the goal of selling at farmers markets before opening a brick and mortar. Agee plans on building up his catering menu and continuing event pop-ups. Eventually, he hopes to acquire a barbeque trailer so he can take his cooking to hotspots around town, like the newly constructed Chase Center.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B3ur7yPBRQV"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As with most projects, there have been bumps along the way, including communication issues between stakeholders and a need for more foot traffic. But even with the challenges of building something from the ground up, Woods believes in it deeply. “It’s remarkable to be a part of the Bistro. No matter if it’s here for a year or if it’s here for five years,” she says. “Bayview is everything to me. My roots are in Bayview. I mean, who wouldn’t want to work right down the street from where they were born?”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Maybe that’s what makes the Bayview Bistro unique. It’s private-public partnership that believes in the power of food to strengthen community in a more radical way than any other food park in the Bay Area. It’s about people with connections to the neighborhood using food entrepreneurship to cement their rightful place in a rapidly changing Bayview, trying to come out of the transition better than ever. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As Harold Agee reflects, “To be starting my business in my community has been a beautiful thing. I just want to stick around and be a part of the change.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>About the New Vendors: \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://yosoyceviche.com/\">\u003cb>Yo Soy Ceviche\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003cb> \u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Founded in 2018 by owner Nory Michelle, the concept of the Yo Soy Ceviche brand is traditional Peruvian recipes with a fusion twist.”\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.theveganhoodchefs.com/\">\u003cb>The Vegan Hood Chefs\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Ronnishia Johnson and Rheema Calloway are The Vegan Hood Chefs. They specialize in turning soul food and American style favorites into delicious vegan meals.”\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Rome's Kitchen\u003c/b>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Roman Rodgers grew up in the Bayview and started his business this year. Rome’s Kitchen specializes in Italian style soul food.”\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/bbqstop/\">Ron's Pit Stop BBQ \u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Ron Cain, resident of the Bayview, is the owner of Ron’s Pit Stop BBQ. He utilizes a food truck from Hunters Point’s Eclectic Cookery, San Francisco’s first and largest commercial kitchen.”\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/tacos-rodriguez-san-francisco\">Tacos Rodriguez\u003c/a>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Gerardo Rodriguez is the owner of Tacos Rodriguez and resident of Bayview Hunters Point. He specializes in Mexican food including tacos, burritos, and quesadillas.”\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/bigh_bbq_pop_up/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Big H Barbeque\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> will stay at the Bistro for Phase 2. For up-to-date information about where to find \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/soul__bowlz/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Soul Bowlz\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> and \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/yespudding/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Yes Pudding\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, consult their social media pages.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bayviewbistrosf.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Bayview Bistro\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/maps/5Tt3AyZQ7y8k6C5A7\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">4101 3rd Street\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">San Francisco, CA 94124\u003c/span>\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Every Thursday, Friday, and Saturday from 11 a.m. – 4 p.m.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cbr>\n\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For the most up-to-date schedule information, visit the Bayview Bistro \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.bayviewbistrosf.com/\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">website\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/135597/at-the-bayview-bistro-local-food-entrepreneurs-nourish-community-resilience","authors":["11614"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_16499","bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_181"],"tags":["bayareabites_9457","bayareabites_11296","bayareabites_9710","bayareabites_11541","bayareabites_14745"],"featImg":"bayareabites_135599","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_135190":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_135190","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"135190","score":null,"sort":[1572189620000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-the-bay-areas-south-asian-diaspora-explores-diwalis-multiplicity","title":"How the Bay Area’s South Asian Diaspora Explores Diwali’s Multiplicity","publishDate":1572189620,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This week marks the five day festival of Diwali with Sunday, the third day, being the most brightly celebrated of them all. Diwali, often described as the festival of lights, holds an array of origin stories and customs amongst the different religions and regions that observe it across India, Nepal, Sri Lanka and beyond. \u003c/span>\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='perspectives_201311200735,news_10765751' label='More on Diwali']\u003cbr>\n\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“In India, it’s much more diverse regionally. It is a festival that Hindus, Sikhs, Jains celebrate but differently,” explained Barnali Ghosh, a landscape architect by trade and activist who co-leads \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleysouthasian.org/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">South Asian Radical History Walking Tour\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Berkeley. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ghosh, who is originally from West Bengal, grew up in a Hindu household in the south Indian cosmopolitan Bangalore, or Bengaluru. “[One] of the beautiful things about the apartment building we lived in, which was like a hundred apartments, was for every festival people would send their regional specialties to the other person's house,” she remembers fondly. “You're always waiting like ‘What are we going to get for Diwali?’ Because Diwali, as a Bengali family, was not the most important festival for us.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Reetu Mody, a lawyer and community organizer who grew up in Concord, Diwali was one of a series of autumnal fêtes kicked off by Navratri, another festival celebrated in a multitude of ways. “I think because of the loss of translation and [because] my mom is Jain and my dad is Hindu, I just knew it more as a celebration around joy, and lights and happiness,” she shares with me. “Only as an adult have I gotten to know the Hindu story around Diwali and that actually led me to critique it a lot more.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mody’s critique is taking shape as a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/east-bay-poc-diwali-celebration-tickets-74325937881\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diwali event\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> she’s organizing along with Sonya Mehta, a fellow community organizer and Parivar, a trans and gender-non-conforming centered South Asian social collective. On November 2nd in Oakland, the group will throw a feast that includes food, dancing and learning to elaborate on and examine the festival’s complicated history. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Diwali in some ways can be very contentious because it has a strong history in caste suppression in Hinduism and also in very patriarchal oppression,” Mody explains. “We wanted to throw a party that captured people's sense of celebration during this time period but that wasn't unthoughtful or uncritical of those traditions that Diwali comes from and how we might want to create new ones.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diwali, its contentious history and its bountiful diversity, play out prominently in food so Mody and the rest of the planning team are carefully considering what their feast might signal to those interested in attending. “Not having meat is something that can be linked with caste oppression so we're having a discussion around it,” Mody tells me. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The topic of vegetarian versus non-vegetarian food around Diwali and other similar holidays that cross regional and religious lines in India is a debate beyond what’s on the plate. “That’s become very political in India right now,” Ghosh tells me. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the last four years, under Prime Minister Narendra Modi, Human Rights Watch estimates that at least \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/10/24/world/asia/india-modi-hindu-violence.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">44 people have been killed\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in India by cow protection groups who are often associated with Hindu fundamentalist views. The victims, many of whom were Muslim, were accused of storing or selling cattle for consumption. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Not all Hindus are vegetarian,” Ghosh explains, “But it’s become this really twisted thing where regional differences are getting sort of wiped out because of the dominance of Hindu fundamentalists, [or] Hindutva culture, which wants to project only one version of Hinduism.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135195\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135195\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/IMG_3286-e1572021861660.jpg\" alt=\"Kali Puja dinner table decor features California fall colors and local flowers including sorrel.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kali Puja dinner table decor features California fall colors and local flowers including sorrel. \u003ccite>(Barnali Ghosh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Like other Bengalis, Ghosh grew up celebrating Kali Puja, a festival which falls on the same day as Diwali. “It feels even more important to preserve the Bengali identity, which is that we eat meat during this festival. It is part of our culture,” she tells me. “It wouldn’t be Kali Puja without goat meat.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As for Mody, she describes the food her family cooked at home as “Gujrati food done Rajisthani style”. It’s a description that renders “Indian food” ineffective in its lack of specificity. For Diwali specifically, Mody remembers eating foods that were considered to bring good fortune. “We had mung beans and they're considered very lucky. You put dried ones in your suitcase. You eat them during celebrations.” she reminisces. “We would have things like puris, small fried flatbreads and we'd have that with mango rus which is this, like, mango milk you eat as a dessert.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sugar might in fact be the unifier across Diwali celebrations. “Celebrating with dessert is probably a thread that ties everything together,” Ghosh says, “If your neighbor was sending you something, it’d be something savory and fried, and sweets.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the diaspora, the tensions borne in homelands can be dulled and imbued with the influence of the politics of their new environments. As Diwali gains popularity as a holiday outside of India, Ghosh and Mody are invested in both examining the holiday’s complexities and keeping the abounding traditions that can get flattened through its mainstreaming.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For her upcoming Diwali feast, Mody is hoping for the right mix of education and celebration through a considered feast: “In the most obvious way, in a way that feels true to all cultures and communities, food is central to how we come together.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"In the Bay Area, members of a South Asian diaspora are exploring Diwali’s complicated history and forging new traditions.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1572297277,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":983},"headData":{"title":"How the Bay Area’s South Asian Diaspora Explores Diwali’s Multiplicity | KQED","description":"In the Bay Area, members of a South Asian diaspora are exploring Diwali’s complicated history and forging new traditions.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"135190 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=135190","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/10/27/how-the-bay-areas-south-asian-diaspora-explores-diwalis-multiplicity/","disqusTitle":"How the Bay Area’s South Asian Diaspora Explores Diwali’s Multiplicity","path":"/bayareabites/135190/how-the-bay-areas-south-asian-diaspora-explores-diwalis-multiplicity","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">This week marks the five day festival of Diwali with Sunday, the third day, being the most brightly celebrated of them all. Diwali, often described as the festival of lights, holds an array of origin stories and customs amongst the different religions and regions that observe it across India, Nepal, Sri Lanka and beyond. \u003c/span>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"perspectives_201311200735,news_10765751","label":"More on Diwali "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“In India, it’s much more diverse regionally. It is a festival that Hindus, Sikhs, Jains celebrate but differently,” explained Barnali Ghosh, a landscape architect by trade and activist who co-leads \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleysouthasian.org/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">South Asian Radical History Walking Tour\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in Berkeley. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ghosh, who is originally from West Bengal, grew up in a Hindu household in the south Indian cosmopolitan Bangalore, or Bengaluru. “[One] of the beautiful things about the apartment building we lived in, which was like a hundred apartments, was for every festival people would send their regional specialties to the other person's house,” she remembers fondly. “You're always waiting like ‘What are we going to get for Diwali?’ Because Diwali, as a Bengali family, was not the most important festival for us.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For Reetu Mody, a lawyer and community organizer who grew up in Concord, Diwali was one of a series of autumnal fêtes kicked off by Navratri, another festival celebrated in a multitude of ways. “I think because of the loss of translation and [because] my mom is Jain and my dad is Hindu, I just knew it more as a celebration around joy, and lights and happiness,” she shares with me. “Only as an adult have I gotten to know the Hindu story around Diwali and that actually led me to critique it a lot more.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mody’s critique is taking shape as a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.eventbrite.com/e/east-bay-poc-diwali-celebration-tickets-74325937881\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diwali event\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> she’s organizing along with Sonya Mehta, a fellow community organizer and Parivar, a trans and gender-non-conforming centered South Asian social collective. On November 2nd in Oakland, the group will throw a feast that includes food, dancing and learning to elaborate on and examine the festival’s complicated history. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Diwali in some ways can be very contentious because it has a strong history in caste suppression in Hinduism and also in very patriarchal oppression,” Mody explains. “We wanted to throw a party that captured people's sense of celebration during this time period but that wasn't unthoughtful or uncritical of those traditions that Diwali comes from and how we might want to create new ones.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Diwali, its contentious history and its bountiful diversity, play out prominently in food so Mody and the rest of the planning team are carefully considering what their feast might signal to those interested in attending. “Not having meat is something that can be linked with caste oppression so we're having a discussion around it,” Mody tells me. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The topic of vegetarian versus non-vegetarian food around Diwali and other similar holidays that cross regional and religious lines in India is a debate beyond what’s on the plate. “That’s become very political in India right now,” Ghosh tells me. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the last four years, under Prime Minister Narendra Modi, Human Rights Watch estimates that at least \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/10/24/world/asia/india-modi-hindu-violence.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">44 people have been killed\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> in India by cow protection groups who are often associated with Hindu fundamentalist views. The victims, many of whom were Muslim, were accused of storing or selling cattle for consumption. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“Not all Hindus are vegetarian,” Ghosh explains, “But it’s become this really twisted thing where regional differences are getting sort of wiped out because of the dominance of Hindu fundamentalists, [or] Hindutva culture, which wants to project only one version of Hinduism.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135195\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-135195\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/IMG_3286-e1572021861660.jpg\" alt=\"Kali Puja dinner table decor features California fall colors and local flowers including sorrel.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kali Puja dinner table decor features California fall colors and local flowers including sorrel. \u003ccite>(Barnali Ghosh)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Like other Bengalis, Ghosh grew up celebrating Kali Puja, a festival which falls on the same day as Diwali. “It feels even more important to preserve the Bengali identity, which is that we eat meat during this festival. It is part of our culture,” she tells me. “It wouldn’t be Kali Puja without goat meat.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As for Mody, she describes the food her family cooked at home as “Gujrati food done Rajisthani style”. It’s a description that renders “Indian food” ineffective in its lack of specificity. For Diwali specifically, Mody remembers eating foods that were considered to bring good fortune. “We had mung beans and they're considered very lucky. You put dried ones in your suitcase. You eat them during celebrations.” she reminisces. “We would have things like puris, small fried flatbreads and we'd have that with mango rus which is this, like, mango milk you eat as a dessert.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sugar might in fact be the unifier across Diwali celebrations. “Celebrating with dessert is probably a thread that ties everything together,” Ghosh says, “If your neighbor was sending you something, it’d be something savory and fried, and sweets.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the diaspora, the tensions borne in homelands can be dulled and imbued with the influence of the politics of their new environments. As Diwali gains popularity as a holiday outside of India, Ghosh and Mody are invested in both examining the holiday’s complexities and keeping the abounding traditions that can get flattened through its mainstreaming.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For her upcoming Diwali feast, Mody is hoping for the right mix of education and celebration through a considered feast: “In the most obvious way, in a way that feels true to all cultures and communities, food is central to how we come together.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/135190/how-the-bay-areas-south-asian-diaspora-explores-diwalis-multiplicity","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_16484","bayareabites_9710","bayareabites_14775","bayareabites_2243"],"featImg":"bayareabites_135193","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_135089":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_135089","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"135089","score":null,"sort":[1571761209000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"in-male-dominated-pizza-circles-women-are-grabbing-a-bigger-slice-of-the-pie","title":"In Male-Dominated Pizza Circles, Women Are Grabbing A Bigger Slice Of The Pie","publishDate":1571761209,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>[aside tag='pizza' label='Bay Area Pizza Spots' target=_]\u003cbr>\nWhen Laura Meyer won the World Pizza Championship for pan pizza in Parma, Italy, the Italian judges called her the male word for champion. Despite her first-place victory, she was the only winner who didn't get a trophy that day. Hers was mailed a year later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They basically refused to acknowledge that a woman had won,\" she said, recently recalling the snub. She was the first woman to win — and the first American. That was 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next year, competing as the only woman, she won best non-traditional pizza at the International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas with a triple-infused rosemary dough (rosemary water, rosemary-infused olive oil, and chopped rosemary). And last month, Meyer's simple pepperoni pizza won the first-ever \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/07/04/738791486/a-look-at-the-history-of-pizza-in-america\">American pizza\u003c/a> division of the Caputo Cup, a pizza-making contest in Naples, Italy, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2017/12/07/569141920/cant-be-topped-neapolitan-style-pizza-making-wins-unesco-heritage-status\">birthplace\u003c/a> of modern pizza, and placed third for traditional pizza at a September contest in Atlantic City, N.J.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Meyer is a pizza powerhouse, any way you slice it. But to many in and out of her profession, she's just a woman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\"Women have always been part of pizza, but it's very macho. It has a macho problem, like most of \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/615851215/battle-tactics-for-your-sexist-workplace\">the job world\u003c/a>,\" she said from \u003ca href=\"https://hoodline.com/2019/08/as-tony-s-pizza-napoletana-turns-10-owner-reflects-on-changing-north-beach\">Tony's\u003c/a>, the prestigious pizza parlor in San Francisco where she is owner Tony Gemignani's right hand and runs its International School of Pizza. \"Guys stare at my chest. They think I don't see. Guess what? I see. My very first day of work, a coworker just watched me do my job like I was a show, entertainment, an ooh-la-la toy. So many people think I could only be as high up as I am because I'm Tony's wife. I'm not his wife. I'm his talent.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Broadly and frequently, male chauvinism is baked into pizza at every step: from the presumption that pizza delivery people are men to the dearth of female \u003ca href=\"https://www.pinterest.com/pin/195695546280848571/\">pizza-maker statues\u003c/a>. \"Pizza making is a profession where men tell you that you belong in a kitchen, but not as a career,\" said Meyer. \"They celebrate \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/restaurants-travel/article/find-grandma-pie\">grandma slices\u003c/a> but not the actual grandmas.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She is trying to change that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meyer is a \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2016/6/28/12033514/laura-meyer-tonys-pizza-sf\">star\u003c/a> in a recent surge of prominent female \u003cem>pizzaiole\u003c/em> across the country: \u003ca href=\"https://www.saveur.com/unique-pizza-ideas/\">Sarah Minnick\u003c/a> at Lovely's Fifty-Fifty in Portland, Ore.; septuagenarian \u003ca href=\"https://lancasteronline.com/features/food/norma-knepp-makes-the-country-s-best-new-york-style/article_fe343cd4-e1db-11e8-bbc9-0f226880d2fc.html\">Norma Knepp\u003c/a> in Pennsylvania Amish Country; \u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2011/10/nancy-silvertons-pizza-dough-recipe.html\">Nancy Silverton\u003c/a> at Osteria Mozza in Los Angeles; \u003ca href=\"https://www.5280.com/2016/04/boulder-eats-audrey-janes-pizza-garage/\">Audrey Kelly\u003c/a> of Audrey Jane's Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colo.; and this year's \u003ca href=\"https://twincities.eater.com/2019/5/6/18534798/ann-kim-james-beard-awards-2019-best-chef-midwest\">best chef\u003c/a> in the Midwest, according to the James Beard Foundation: \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/10/dining/ann-kim-chef-minneapolis.html\">Ann Kim\u003c/a>, a pizza maker in Minneapolis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In New York, where a pizza slice is quintessential to local identity, \u003ca href=\"https://blog.scottspizzatours.com/post/172104072849/nicole-russell-of-last-dragon-pizza-in-rockaway\">Nicole Russell\u003c/a> serves pickup-only Last Dragon Pizza out of her home in Queens. At the \u003ca href=\"https://nycpizzafestival.com/\">New York Pizza Festival\u003c/a> this month, which included pizza makers from Naples and across the U.S., spectators recorded Russell making her tandoori chicken pizza — unofficially the best in show, lifted by a lingering seduction of spices including ginger and mustard oil. One stranger nudged another with a tourist's stage whisper: \"She made that! I just saw her do it!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, Russell shrugged. \"As a black woman, I'm used to people underestimating me,\" she said. \"But I have a proven customer base and a following. I've had tourists from Texas who came to New York with my pizza on their bucket list. We're not just those women over there. Women aren't just coming up in the pizza game. We're winning up in the pizza game.\"\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_134173,bayareabites_129667' align='left' label='More Pizza News' target=_]\u003cbr>\nWith pizza makers finally and firmly having \u003ca href=\"https://www.pizzatoday.com/departments/features/fast-casual-pizza-boom/\">wrestled\u003c/a> the national consciousness about pizza away from cheap mega-chains like Domino's, Little Caesars, Papa John's and Pizza Hut, their pies have been released into a \u003ca href=\"https://www.1843magazine.com/food/the-neapolitan-renaissance\">renaissance\u003c/a> of artisanal styles — \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/entertaining-style/trends-news/article/bar-pizza\">bar\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/06/17/732726329/naples-rolls-out-a-fine-tuned-dough-and-the-new-cloud-pizza-is-born\">cloud\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/2017/02/how-to-make-detroit-style-pizza.html\">Detroit\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2018/5/9/17315154/best-new-pizza-rome\">Roman\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://pizzaneed.com/sicilian-pizza/\">Sicilian\u003c/a> — and \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2019/8/26/20833096/deep-fried-bbq-quesadilla-pizza-pizzadilla-viral-video\">unorthodox\u003c/a> cultural mashups, including \u003ca href=\"https://www.saveur.com/buenos-aires-pizza-guide/\">Argentine\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://explorepartsunknown.com/korea/korean-pizza/\">Korean\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2017/2/21/14670944/best-pizza-tokyo-guide\">Japanese\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.ladbible.com/news/food-swedish-people-put-some-seriously-weird-st-on-their-pizza-20181111\">Swedish\u003c/a>. That openness has created a welcoming culture. Yet pizza's association with fast food still impugns it among foodie snobs, to the point that no pizzeria in the United States — or on the planet — has a Michelin star, even though the prize has been given to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.greatbigstory.com/amp/a-michelin-star-meal-for-1-50\">$1.50 noodle stall\u003c/a> in Singapore, a \u003ca href=\"https://guide.michelin.com/en/hong-kong-region/hong-kong/restaurant/tim-ho-wan-sham-shui-po\">cheap dim sum chain\u003c/a> in Hong Kong, and a crab omelet \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/06/26/732529154/meet-the-74-year-old-queen-of-bangkok-street-food-who-netted-a-michelin-star\">street food shop\u003c/a> in Bangkok.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The off-radar nature of pizza makers has given them stealth potency — if not for \u003ca href=\"https://www.businessinsider.com/zume-pizza-robot-expansion-2017-6\">seismic change\u003c/a>, then at least for visibility. It sounds, well, cheesy, but in Naples the menu at Sorbillo's, arguably the standard bearer of Neapolitan pizza, now offers a special pie — pink ricotta (blended with tomato), mozzarella fior di latte, extra virgin olive oil and fresh basil — in \u003ca href=\"http://www.napolitoday.it/blog/l_oro-di-napoli/barbie-pizzaiola-pizzeria-sorbillo.html\">partnership with Barbie\u003c/a>, which last year debuted a pizza-making doll. (Gino Sorbillo's young daughter, Ludovica, is an aspiring pizza maker.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Women can make progress in pizza that is harder in the \u003ca href=\"https://www.newyorker.com/culture/annals-of-gastronomy/a-harvey-weinstein-moment-for-the-restaurant-industry\">macho restaurant world\u003c/a>,\" said Kim, the Minneapolis pizza maker. \"I love that because that world can be limiting. It has finite goals of money and awards. I prefer the infinite reach of intention and purpose. The most-popular item on my menu is a Korean barbecue pizza that, for some people, is their first taste of Korean food. It's all the things we say we want food to be.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pizza-making also doesn't have fine dining's militaristic brigade setup — chef du cuisine, sous chef, saucier, pâtissier, etc. — or its penchant for \u003ca href=\"https://www.foodandwine.com/chefs/communal-table-restaurant-bullying\">bullying\u003c/a> (and \u003ca href=\"https://www.thecut.com/2017/12/mario-batali-spotted-pig-rape-room.html\">worse\u003c/a>); it's far more collaborative and flexible, casual and supportive even at its upper echelons. Though its ethos is often \u003ca href=\"http://www.grubstreet.com/2015/12/pizza-hut-sexist-swag.html\">far from feminist\u003c/a>, pizza making can be a very feminine craft in the way that it doesn't cling to the rules of a male-dominated kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Kelly opened her Colorado pizzeria in 2015, after earning a degree from Le Cordon Bleu, her father urged her to include her name in the title. He and her mother have run a local chain of bagel shops for decades, but they're widely seen as \"his.\" He wanted better for his daughter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first, Kelly's kitchen was all men (and her). Now it's 50-50, and some days is all women. \"I think of gender equality as craft, as rewarding balance,\" she said. \"We've had men who haven't worked out because they don't want to listen to a woman, which I know because they'd listen if my husband told them the same thing I did.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now some of these women are banding together — including Kelly, Meyer, and Russell — to make Women In Pizza a movement like \u003ca href=\"https://www.wbur.org/onpoint/2019/02/04/girls-who-code-reshma-saujani-brave-not-perfect\">Girls Who Code\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"https://www.whitecoatsblackdoctors.org/\">White Coats Black Doctors\u003c/a>. A formal alliance debuted in September: \u003ca href=\"http://www.womeninpizza.com/\">www.womeninpizza.com\u003c/a>. And this year the \u003ca href=\"https://www.worldpizzachampions.com/\">World Pizza Champions\u003c/a>, a kind of industry Justice League, increased its female members from 3 to 5 (out of 39 active members).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Is it lame to say I do it just because it's fun?\" said Tara Hattan, who said she is the only female pizza maker in her town of Broken Arrow, Okla. \"Girls come just to see me do my \u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/cbC8ZUo975I\">pizza acrobatics\u003c/a>. I get to be the inspiration or role model or just example I wish I had when I was younger. That's why I bring my \u003ca href=\"http://www.prodoughusa.com/\">ProDough\u003c/a> everywhere, out to bars or parties. I want everyone to know women can do this, because they've seen so with their own eyes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Women in pizza still have frustrations, of course, but flagrant sexism is abating. \"Ugh,\" Meyer groaned in Naples last month, readjusting her trophy for a moment as an Italian television crew scampered over to interview her about her victory. \"I'm going to have to wear my hair down.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://charmandrigor.com/\">\u003cem>Richard Morgan\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a freelance writer in New York, is the author of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Bedlam-Kindle-Single-Richard-Morgan-ebook/dp/B00WH0F2QS\">\u003cem>Born in Bedlam\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a memoir. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/10/22/771037027/in-male-dominated-pizza-circles-women-are-grabbing-a-bigger-slice-of-the-pie\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Men have long commanded the pizza-making scene, creating what one female champ calls a \"macho problem.\" But that's starting to change as more women open pizzerias and gain recognition in the field.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1571761209,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":22,"wordCount":1364},"headData":{"title":"In Male-Dominated Pizza Circles, Women Are Grabbing A Bigger Slice Of The Pie | KQED","description":"Men have long commanded the pizza-making scene, creating what one female champ calls a "macho problem." But that's starting to change as more women open pizzerias and gain recognition in the field.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"135089 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=135089","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/10/22/in-male-dominated-pizza-circles-women-are-grabbing-a-bigger-slice-of-the-pie/","disqusTitle":"In Male-Dominated Pizza Circles, Women Are Grabbing A Bigger Slice Of The Pie","nprImageCredit":"Bruce Bisping","nprByline":"Richard Morgan","nprImageAgency":"Star Tribune via Getty Images","nprStoryId":"771037027","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=771037027&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/10/22/771037027/in-male-dominated-pizza-circles-women-are-grabbing-a-bigger-slice-of-the-pie?ft=nprml&f=771037027","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 22 Oct 2019 10:34:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 22 Oct 2019 07:00:12 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 22 Oct 2019 10:34:25 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/135089/in-male-dominated-pizza-circles-women-are-grabbing-a-bigger-slice-of-the-pie","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"pizza","label":"Bay Area Pizza Spots ","target":"_"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nWhen Laura Meyer won the World Pizza Championship for pan pizza in Parma, Italy, the Italian judges called her the male word for champion. Despite her first-place victory, she was the only winner who didn't get a trophy that day. Hers was mailed a year later.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They basically refused to acknowledge that a woman had won,\" she said, recently recalling the snub. She was the first woman to win — and the first American. That was 2013.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next year, competing as the only woman, she won best non-traditional pizza at the International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas with a triple-infused rosemary dough (rosemary water, rosemary-infused olive oil, and chopped rosemary). And last month, Meyer's simple pepperoni pizza won the first-ever \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2019/07/04/738791486/a-look-at-the-history-of-pizza-in-america\">American pizza\u003c/a> division of the Caputo Cup, a pizza-making contest in Naples, Italy, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2017/12/07/569141920/cant-be-topped-neapolitan-style-pizza-making-wins-unesco-heritage-status\">birthplace\u003c/a> of modern pizza, and placed third for traditional pizza at a September contest in Atlantic City, N.J.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Meyer is a pizza powerhouse, any way you slice it. But to many in and out of her profession, she's just a woman.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\"Women have always been part of pizza, but it's very macho. It has a macho problem, like most of \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/615851215/battle-tactics-for-your-sexist-workplace\">the job world\u003c/a>,\" she said from \u003ca href=\"https://hoodline.com/2019/08/as-tony-s-pizza-napoletana-turns-10-owner-reflects-on-changing-north-beach\">Tony's\u003c/a>, the prestigious pizza parlor in San Francisco where she is owner Tony Gemignani's right hand and runs its International School of Pizza. \"Guys stare at my chest. They think I don't see. Guess what? I see. My very first day of work, a coworker just watched me do my job like I was a show, entertainment, an ooh-la-la toy. So many people think I could only be as high up as I am because I'm Tony's wife. I'm not his wife. I'm his talent.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Broadly and frequently, male chauvinism is baked into pizza at every step: from the presumption that pizza delivery people are men to the dearth of female \u003ca href=\"https://www.pinterest.com/pin/195695546280848571/\">pizza-maker statues\u003c/a>. \"Pizza making is a profession where men tell you that you belong in a kitchen, but not as a career,\" said Meyer. \"They celebrate \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/restaurants-travel/article/find-grandma-pie\">grandma slices\u003c/a> but not the actual grandmas.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She is trying to change that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meyer is a \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2016/6/28/12033514/laura-meyer-tonys-pizza-sf\">star\u003c/a> in a recent surge of prominent female \u003cem>pizzaiole\u003c/em> across the country: \u003ca href=\"https://www.saveur.com/unique-pizza-ideas/\">Sarah Minnick\u003c/a> at Lovely's Fifty-Fifty in Portland, Ore.; septuagenarian \u003ca href=\"https://lancasteronline.com/features/food/norma-knepp-makes-the-country-s-best-new-york-style/article_fe343cd4-e1db-11e8-bbc9-0f226880d2fc.html\">Norma Knepp\u003c/a> in Pennsylvania Amish Country; \u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2011/10/nancy-silvertons-pizza-dough-recipe.html\">Nancy Silverton\u003c/a> at Osteria Mozza in Los Angeles; \u003ca href=\"https://www.5280.com/2016/04/boulder-eats-audrey-janes-pizza-garage/\">Audrey Kelly\u003c/a> of Audrey Jane's Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colo.; and this year's \u003ca href=\"https://twincities.eater.com/2019/5/6/18534798/ann-kim-james-beard-awards-2019-best-chef-midwest\">best chef\u003c/a> in the Midwest, according to the James Beard Foundation: \u003ca href=\"https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/10/dining/ann-kim-chef-minneapolis.html\">Ann Kim\u003c/a>, a pizza maker in Minneapolis.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In New York, where a pizza slice is quintessential to local identity, \u003ca href=\"https://blog.scottspizzatours.com/post/172104072849/nicole-russell-of-last-dragon-pizza-in-rockaway\">Nicole Russell\u003c/a> serves pickup-only Last Dragon Pizza out of her home in Queens. At the \u003ca href=\"https://nycpizzafestival.com/\">New York Pizza Festival\u003c/a> this month, which included pizza makers from Naples and across the U.S., spectators recorded Russell making her tandoori chicken pizza — unofficially the best in show, lifted by a lingering seduction of spices including ginger and mustard oil. One stranger nudged another with a tourist's stage whisper: \"She made that! I just saw her do it!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, Russell shrugged. \"As a black woman, I'm used to people underestimating me,\" she said. \"But I have a proven customer base and a following. I've had tourists from Texas who came to New York with my pizza on their bucket list. We're not just those women over there. Women aren't just coming up in the pizza game. We're winning up in the pizza game.\"\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_134173,bayareabites_129667","align":"left","label":"More Pizza News ","target":"_"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nWith pizza makers finally and firmly having \u003ca href=\"https://www.pizzatoday.com/departments/features/fast-casual-pizza-boom/\">wrestled\u003c/a> the national consciousness about pizza away from cheap mega-chains like Domino's, Little Caesars, Papa John's and Pizza Hut, their pies have been released into a \u003ca href=\"https://www.1843magazine.com/food/the-neapolitan-renaissance\">renaissance\u003c/a> of artisanal styles — \u003ca href=\"https://www.bonappetit.com/entertaining-style/trends-news/article/bar-pizza\">bar\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/06/17/732726329/naples-rolls-out-a-fine-tuned-dough-and-the-new-cloud-pizza-is-born\">cloud\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/2017/02/how-to-make-detroit-style-pizza.html\">Detroit\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2018/5/9/17315154/best-new-pizza-rome\">Roman\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://pizzaneed.com/sicilian-pizza/\">Sicilian\u003c/a> — and \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2019/8/26/20833096/deep-fried-bbq-quesadilla-pizza-pizzadilla-viral-video\">unorthodox\u003c/a> cultural mashups, including \u003ca href=\"https://www.saveur.com/buenos-aires-pizza-guide/\">Argentine\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://explorepartsunknown.com/korea/korean-pizza/\">Korean\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2017/2/21/14670944/best-pizza-tokyo-guide\">Japanese\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.ladbible.com/news/food-swedish-people-put-some-seriously-weird-st-on-their-pizza-20181111\">Swedish\u003c/a>. That openness has created a welcoming culture. Yet pizza's association with fast food still impugns it among foodie snobs, to the point that no pizzeria in the United States — or on the planet — has a Michelin star, even though the prize has been given to a \u003ca href=\"https://www.greatbigstory.com/amp/a-michelin-star-meal-for-1-50\">$1.50 noodle stall\u003c/a> in Singapore, a \u003ca href=\"https://guide.michelin.com/en/hong-kong-region/hong-kong/restaurant/tim-ho-wan-sham-shui-po\">cheap dim sum chain\u003c/a> in Hong Kong, and a crab omelet \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/06/26/732529154/meet-the-74-year-old-queen-of-bangkok-street-food-who-netted-a-michelin-star\">street food shop\u003c/a> in Bangkok.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The off-radar nature of pizza makers has given them stealth potency — if not for \u003ca href=\"https://www.businessinsider.com/zume-pizza-robot-expansion-2017-6\">seismic change\u003c/a>, then at least for visibility. It sounds, well, cheesy, but in Naples the menu at Sorbillo's, arguably the standard bearer of Neapolitan pizza, now offers a special pie — pink ricotta (blended with tomato), mozzarella fior di latte, extra virgin olive oil and fresh basil — in \u003ca href=\"http://www.napolitoday.it/blog/l_oro-di-napoli/barbie-pizzaiola-pizzeria-sorbillo.html\">partnership with Barbie\u003c/a>, which last year debuted a pizza-making doll. (Gino Sorbillo's young daughter, Ludovica, is an aspiring pizza maker.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Women can make progress in pizza that is harder in the \u003ca href=\"https://www.newyorker.com/culture/annals-of-gastronomy/a-harvey-weinstein-moment-for-the-restaurant-industry\">macho restaurant world\u003c/a>,\" said Kim, the Minneapolis pizza maker. \"I love that because that world can be limiting. It has finite goals of money and awards. I prefer the infinite reach of intention and purpose. The most-popular item on my menu is a Korean barbecue pizza that, for some people, is their first taste of Korean food. It's all the things we say we want food to be.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pizza-making also doesn't have fine dining's militaristic brigade setup — chef du cuisine, sous chef, saucier, pâtissier, etc. — or its penchant for \u003ca href=\"https://www.foodandwine.com/chefs/communal-table-restaurant-bullying\">bullying\u003c/a> (and \u003ca href=\"https://www.thecut.com/2017/12/mario-batali-spotted-pig-rape-room.html\">worse\u003c/a>); it's far more collaborative and flexible, casual and supportive even at its upper echelons. Though its ethos is often \u003ca href=\"http://www.grubstreet.com/2015/12/pizza-hut-sexist-swag.html\">far from feminist\u003c/a>, pizza making can be a very feminine craft in the way that it doesn't cling to the rules of a male-dominated kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Kelly opened her Colorado pizzeria in 2015, after earning a degree from Le Cordon Bleu, her father urged her to include her name in the title. He and her mother have run a local chain of bagel shops for decades, but they're widely seen as \"his.\" He wanted better for his daughter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first, Kelly's kitchen was all men (and her). Now it's 50-50, and some days is all women. \"I think of gender equality as craft, as rewarding balance,\" she said. \"We've had men who haven't worked out because they don't want to listen to a woman, which I know because they'd listen if my husband told them the same thing I did.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now some of these women are banding together — including Kelly, Meyer, and Russell — to make Women In Pizza a movement like \u003ca href=\"https://www.wbur.org/onpoint/2019/02/04/girls-who-code-reshma-saujani-brave-not-perfect\">Girls Who Code\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"https://www.whitecoatsblackdoctors.org/\">White Coats Black Doctors\u003c/a>. A formal alliance debuted in September: \u003ca href=\"http://www.womeninpizza.com/\">www.womeninpizza.com\u003c/a>. And this year the \u003ca href=\"https://www.worldpizzachampions.com/\">World Pizza Champions\u003c/a>, a kind of industry Justice League, increased its female members from 3 to 5 (out of 39 active members).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Is it lame to say I do it just because it's fun?\" said Tara Hattan, who said she is the only female pizza maker in her town of Broken Arrow, Okla. \"Girls come just to see me do my \u003ca href=\"https://youtu.be/cbC8ZUo975I\">pizza acrobatics\u003c/a>. I get to be the inspiration or role model or just example I wish I had when I was younger. That's why I bring my \u003ca href=\"http://www.prodoughusa.com/\">ProDough\u003c/a> everywhere, out to bars or parties. I want everyone to know women can do this, because they've seen so with their own eyes.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Women in pizza still have frustrations, of course, but flagrant sexism is abating. \"Ugh,\" Meyer groaned in Naples last month, readjusting her trophy for a moment as an Italian television crew scampered over to interview her about her victory. \"I'm going to have to wear my hair down.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://charmandrigor.com/\">\u003cem>Richard Morgan\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a freelance writer in New York, is the author of \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Bedlam-Kindle-Single-Richard-Morgan-ebook/dp/B00WH0F2QS\">\u003cem>Born in Bedlam\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003cem>, a memoir. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2019 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/10/22/771037027/in-male-dominated-pizza-circles-women-are-grabbing-a-bigger-slice-of-the-pie\">NPR.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/135089/in-male-dominated-pizza-circles-women-are-grabbing-a-bigger-slice-of-the-pie","authors":["byline_bayareabites_135089"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_15045","bayareabites_443"],"featImg":"bayareabites_135090","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_135016":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_135016","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"135016","score":null,"sort":[1570822104000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"can-dry-farming-help-save-californias-vineyards","title":"Can Dry Farming Help Save California’s Vineyards?","publishDate":1570822104,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ci>by Lela Nargi\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>California’s most recent drought lasted many long, parched years—eight in some regions—before ending in 2017 to the relief of everyone in and out of agriculture. For the state’s grape growers, it meant respite from parched vines putting out small berries and leaves and showing other signs of stress.\u003cbr>\n[aside postID='bayareabites_68996,bayareabites_130307' label='More on Dry Farming']\u003cbr>\n“It was hard to walk through some vineyards and see vines dying, and there was nothing you could do,” says Tegan Passalacqua, director of winemaking for \u003ca href=\"http://www.turleywinecellars.com/\">Turley Wine Cellars\u003c/a>. “Some vineyards lost 300 vines in one year. Talk to the old timers, and they’ll tell you—they never remember that happening.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was plenty of suffering to go around, but some vineyards fared less terribly than others—historic parcels east of San Francisco, in Contra Costa County, for example. Planted at the turn of the last century by Italian, Portuguese, and Spanish immigrants, they rely on a technique called dry farming rather than irrigation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While these vineyards did not go unscathed during the drought, they did manage to “acclimatize,” says Charlie Tsegeletos, director of winemaking for \u003ca href=\"https://clinecellars.com/\">Cline Cellars\u003c/a>, which owns about 150 acres of heritage vineyards in the county and contracts from another 300 acres.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135019\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-4-Charlie-Tsegeletos-700x750.jpg\" alt=\"Cline Family Cellars winemaker Charlie Tsegeletos.\" width=\"700\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135019\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-4-Charlie-Tsegeletos-700x750.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-4-Charlie-Tsegeletos-700x750-160x171.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cline Family Cellars winemaker Charlie Tsegeletos. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cline Family Cellars)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All around them, Contra Costa is experiencing an explosion of development. The allure of living amid the old vineyards’ leafy, picturesque rows is, ironically, \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2009/08/10/farmland-conservation-the-important-lesson-of-brentwood-california/\">threatening their continued existence\u003c/a>. Tsegeletos says offers of hundreds of thousands of dollars per acre are hard to pass up for vineyard heirs with little interest in continuing the family business. With development has come concern that if these vineyards disappear, the knowledge the county’s dry farms can offer other wine-growing systems in fast-drying regions may also fade away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A critical lesson of dry farming “is that there are options,” says Matt Dees, winemaker at \u003ca href=\"https://www.jonata.com/\">Jonata Vineyard\u003c/a> in Southern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This has special relevance in light of the state’s \u003ca href=\"https://water.ca.gov/Programs/Groundwater-Management/SGMA-Groundwater-Management\">2014 Sustainable Groundwater Management Act\u003c/a> (SGMA), which will soon begin to \u003ca href=\"https://water.ca.gov/Programs/Groundwater-Management/SGMA-Groundwater-Management\">curtail the amount of water\u003c/a> that can be pumped from 21 critically over-drafted aquifers, several of which are in wine-producing regions. \u003ca href=\"https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/nation/2019/09/08/climate-change-threatens-worlds-wineries-which-grapes-saved/2136457001/\">Some in the industry are already preparing\u003c/a> by shading vineyards, cover-cropping, and seeking out new rootstocks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Passalacqua says this past, balmy year in California was a “healing” time for vineyards, and sufficient winter rains allowed viticulturists to almost forget the specter of drought. But there’s no looking away from the changing climate. Vintners and winemakers are experiencing “a lot of urgency,” says Allison Jordan, executive director of the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance (CSWA). “I have great hope that we will find a way through.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Tenets of Dry Farming\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Two years ago, while contemplating the extreme variability in recent rainfall, Dees planted two experimental acres of dry-farmed grapes in a Jonata vineyard in \u003ca href=\"https://www.ballardcanyonava.org/\">Ballard Canyon\u003c/a>. He’d gotten to thinking, “What if the drought continues? What if nine inches of rain a year is the new normal? We’d better be ready.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dry farming, a method that’s been used for centuries to grow grapes, almonds, and olives in Mediterranean countries, requires soils with enough structure to hold moisture from \u003ca href=\"https://water.ca.gov/LegacyFiles/floodmgmt/hafoo/csc/docs/CA_Precipitation_2pager.pdf\">seasonal rains\u003c/a> for months at a time—in California, these rains happen between October and April. One method is to plant young vines that are grafted to vigorous rootstocks relatively far apart and water them for only their first two years in the ground. The point is to encourage their roots to dig deep into the dirt from which they’ll pull stored rainwater starting in year three.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135020\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-1-jonata-vineyards-700x468.jpg\" alt=\"Dry farmed grape vineyards\" width=\"700\" height=\"468\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135020\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-1-jonata-vineyards-700x468.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-1-jonata-vineyards-700x468-160x107.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dry farmed grape vineyards \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jonata)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“In dry farming, you’re putting resistance into the system,” says Stephen Gliessman, an emeritus agroecologist at the University of Santa Cruz who also co-owns the dry-farmed vineyard \u003ca href=\"http://www.condorshope.com/\">Condor’s Hope\u003c/a> in the Cuyama Valley of northern Santa Barbara County.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though plenty of wine grape growers in the state practice dry farming, the method represents a drop in the bucket of a $70 billion business. Tightly spaced, high-yield, drip-irrigated vineyards are much in favor; their practices encourage roots to hang out near the surface of the soil, where they expect to find water—and they can’t survive without a frequent fix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dry-farming yields per acre can be lower; \u003ca href=\"http://www.caff.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/Dry-Farming-BMP-Guide_web.pdf\">some estimates\u003c/a> put them at two to three tons per acre, versus three to four tons for premium grapes. Fans of wines made from dry-farmed grapes, however, extoll their more complex flavors. “But vineyards today are too focused on maximizing yields rather than adapting to local conditions so they’re not so dependent on water,” Gliessman says. “They’re using a limited resource, and climate change makes it worse.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Small Farms Experimenting with New (Old) Methods\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Gliessman and his neighbors in the near-desert of Cuyama could watch this scenario play out at a vineyard \u003ca href=\"https://www.thecrimson.com/article/2019/3/6/hmc-vineyard-environmental-review/\">owned by the company\u003c/a> that manages Harvard University’s endowment. North Fork Vineyard’s irrigation system is drawing what Gliessman calls “excessive” groundwater from one of those 21 critically over-drafted aquifers. This water use has raised the hackles of residents, who are waiting to see how SGMA, which spurred \u003ca href=\"http://cuyamabasin.org/assets/pdf/Cuyama-GSP-Section-4-Monitoring-Networks.pdf\">Cuyama’s Groundwater Management Plan\u003c/a>, will affect the valley starting next year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Harvard’s vineyard, says Gliessman, is a prime example—although certainly not the only one—of grapes being planted in a manner that is not appropriate for the land and the available water. “Companies growing grapes industrially have to start accepting the fact that water-intensive systems are going to have to change.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the moment, though, it’s smaller wineries that seem most open to adapting. This is partly to do with finances. Big companies can afford to shell out for increasingly expensive water rights where needed, or purchase additional acres in cooler places, like British Columbia, says David Runsten, policy director of sustainability advocacy organization \u003ca href=\"https://www.caff.org/\">Community Alliance with Family Farmers\u003c/a> (CAFF). Smaller operations, he says, “are stuck where they are. But can they dry farm?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135021\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-3-grapes-with-cover-crops-caff.jpg\" alt=\"Dry-farmed grapevines with cover crops.\" width=\"640\" height=\"631\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135021\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-3-grapes-with-cover-crops-caff.jpg 640w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-3-grapes-with-cover-crops-caff-160x158.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dry-farmed grapevines with cover crops. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of CAFF)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jonata’s Dees is not the only one trying. More than half of Turley’s 50 vineyards across the state practice dry farming. Cline is experimenting with own-rooted—as opposed to grafted—vines on some near-dry-farmed blocks at its home base in Sonoma; Tsegeletos calls it “risky” due to pest concerns. \u003ca href=\"https://tablascreek.com/\">Tablas Creek\u003c/a>, in Paso Robles, mostly dry farms its roughly 120 acres and has set up 30 acres the “old-fashioned California way,” with vines far apart and no irrigation system installed, according to general manager Jason Haas. He says in those blocks, “Getting into harvest season in the drought years, it looked like there was no drought at all.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A grower can’t just one day decide to up and dry farm. “It requires thinking [in advance] about how to get vines to generate a deep root system,” says Haas; as vineyard parcels come to the end of their lives, though, they can be replaced. Dry farming also isn’t right if soils and rainfall aren’t a match.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Haas, Runsten, and Gliessman all think more vineyards could adopt the practice. In Mendocino County, says Runsten, many wineries irrigate their vines, “and I can’t understand why. They’re next to the Russian River and get plenty of rain.” He blames convention—the idea that “this is the way things are done”—and the risk-averse nature of vineyard consultants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“As you go farther north and closer to the coast, dry farming becomes more viable,” says Haas. Some winemakers argue that it could even work for \u003ca href=\"http://agwaterstewards.org/practices/dry_farming/\">all of landlocked Napa\u003c/a>, where \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/wine/article/Napa-wineries-confront-climate-change-by-planting-14308512.php\">the San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a> reported recently that climate-slammed vineyards are scrambling to try out heat-hardy varietals.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Spreading the Dry-Farming Gospel\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Tablas Creek and other vineyards have hosted seminars presented by CAFF to offer up research and help viticulturists think about adjusting the way they grow grapes. Runsten says there’s been a general pooh-poohing of some of CAFF’s projected climate models. On the flip side, Haas sees grower interest in dry farming increasing. “All over, there are people who are terrified” about the shifting climate, he says; to prepare, many of them are willing to try something new to them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135022\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 350px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-2-jonata-matt-dees-drew-pickering-ruben-solorzano-350x525.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Dees (center), with assistant winemaker Drew Pickering (left) and vineyard manager Ruben Solorzano (right).\" width=\"350\" height=\"525\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135022\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-2-jonata-matt-dees-drew-pickering-ruben-solorzano-350x525.jpg 350w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-2-jonata-matt-dees-drew-pickering-ruben-solorzano-350x525-160x240.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Dees (center), with assistant winemaker Drew Pickering (left) and vineyard manager Ruben Solorzano (right). \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jonata)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two years into his dry-farming experiment, Jonata’s Dees is not a card-carrying convert. “There are people who are taking up the dry-farming torch and saying the old vines are the ideal, but it’s not black and white to me,” he says. He thinks an “integrated” approach that reduces reliance on irrigation but also increases soil health, might be more viable for a lot of vineyards. California’s \u003ca href=\"http://calclimateag.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Healthy-Soils-Fact-Sheet-2018.pdf\">Healthy Soils Program makes grants\u003c/a> to wine grape growers for just that latter purpose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, watching the young vines in his experimental block dig deep to find water has been eye opening, he says, and perhaps indicates that they’re stronger than he gave them credit for. There’s also “a feeling you get sometimes in vineyards, and this feels really good.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>CAFF received grant money from the California Department of Water Resources (DWR) to run seminars a few years ago and continues to conduct them when it can. DWR funds other water-use efficiency programs for vineyards, although they are mostly focused on irrigation systems, according to information shared by the department.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The CSWA supports water use reduction goals, too, including improved irrigation systems and monitoring with technology such as drones; encouraging best practices such as cover crop management; and third-party sustainability certification that includes a water component. The Alliance partnered with CAFF to produce some dry-farming case studies, says CSWA’s Jordan, who believes, too, that dry farming could expand in California. “In places where it’s appropriate, I think additional education will help increase rates” of adoption, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But even beyond the focus of dry farming, Dees says, “Grumpy old farmers are getting together to talk about [sustainability]. That says a ton.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Contra Costa County, efforts to preserve the old vineyards continue. Cline’s Tsegeletos says that the city of Oakley seems genuinely interested in trying to keep them around, offering some rent-free acres. But should development amp up throughout the county, Gliessman says there will be repercussions, and not just for the vineyards. Swimming pools and lawns use a lot of groundwater; pavement “affects the capacity of systems to take in water, get it into the soil system, and help maintain groundwater—it all runs off instead.” Whoever’s left behind to use that water, they’ll have less of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beyond that, Gliessman sees something urgent yet less visible at stake. “Taking the place of these small operations are large-scale industrial [ones],” he said. “What we’re losing are people who live on the land, work it, know it and its history, and are committed to sustainability. And that is what the future of agriculture should be.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/10/03/can-dry-farming-help-save-californias-vineyards/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"As the state faces ever hotter, drier, and more erratic weather, advocates of dry farming say its time has come—again.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1570822104,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":31,"wordCount":1993},"headData":{"title":"Can Dry Farming Help Save California’s Vineyards? | KQED","description":"As the state faces ever hotter, drier, and more erratic weather, advocates of dry farming say its time has come—again.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"135016 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=135016","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/10/11/can-dry-farming-help-save-californias-vineyards/","disqusTitle":"Can Dry Farming Help Save California’s Vineyards?","path":"/bayareabites/135016/can-dry-farming-help-save-californias-vineyards","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ci>by Lela Nargi\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>California’s most recent drought lasted many long, parched years—eight in some regions—before ending in 2017 to the relief of everyone in and out of agriculture. For the state’s grape growers, it meant respite from parched vines putting out small berries and leaves and showing other signs of stress.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"bayareabites_68996,bayareabites_130307","label":"More on Dry Farming "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cbr>\n“It was hard to walk through some vineyards and see vines dying, and there was nothing you could do,” says Tegan Passalacqua, director of winemaking for \u003ca href=\"http://www.turleywinecellars.com/\">Turley Wine Cellars\u003c/a>. “Some vineyards lost 300 vines in one year. Talk to the old timers, and they’ll tell you—they never remember that happening.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was plenty of suffering to go around, but some vineyards fared less terribly than others—historic parcels east of San Francisco, in Contra Costa County, for example. Planted at the turn of the last century by Italian, Portuguese, and Spanish immigrants, they rely on a technique called dry farming rather than irrigation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While these vineyards did not go unscathed during the drought, they did manage to “acclimatize,” says Charlie Tsegeletos, director of winemaking for \u003ca href=\"https://clinecellars.com/\">Cline Cellars\u003c/a>, which owns about 150 acres of heritage vineyards in the county and contracts from another 300 acres.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135019\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-4-Charlie-Tsegeletos-700x750.jpg\" alt=\"Cline Family Cellars winemaker Charlie Tsegeletos.\" width=\"700\" height=\"750\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135019\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-4-Charlie-Tsegeletos-700x750.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-4-Charlie-Tsegeletos-700x750-160x171.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cline Family Cellars winemaker Charlie Tsegeletos. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Cline Family Cellars)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All around them, Contra Costa is experiencing an explosion of development. The allure of living amid the old vineyards’ leafy, picturesque rows is, ironically, \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2009/08/10/farmland-conservation-the-important-lesson-of-brentwood-california/\">threatening their continued existence\u003c/a>. Tsegeletos says offers of hundreds of thousands of dollars per acre are hard to pass up for vineyard heirs with little interest in continuing the family business. With development has come concern that if these vineyards disappear, the knowledge the county’s dry farms can offer other wine-growing systems in fast-drying regions may also fade away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A critical lesson of dry farming “is that there are options,” says Matt Dees, winemaker at \u003ca href=\"https://www.jonata.com/\">Jonata Vineyard\u003c/a> in Southern California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This has special relevance in light of the state’s \u003ca href=\"https://water.ca.gov/Programs/Groundwater-Management/SGMA-Groundwater-Management\">2014 Sustainable Groundwater Management Act\u003c/a> (SGMA), which will soon begin to \u003ca href=\"https://water.ca.gov/Programs/Groundwater-Management/SGMA-Groundwater-Management\">curtail the amount of water\u003c/a> that can be pumped from 21 critically over-drafted aquifers, several of which are in wine-producing regions. \u003ca href=\"https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/nation/2019/09/08/climate-change-threatens-worlds-wineries-which-grapes-saved/2136457001/\">Some in the industry are already preparing\u003c/a> by shading vineyards, cover-cropping, and seeking out new rootstocks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Passalacqua says this past, balmy year in California was a “healing” time for vineyards, and sufficient winter rains allowed viticulturists to almost forget the specter of drought. But there’s no looking away from the changing climate. Vintners and winemakers are experiencing “a lot of urgency,” says Allison Jordan, executive director of the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance (CSWA). “I have great hope that we will find a way through.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Tenets of Dry Farming\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Two years ago, while contemplating the extreme variability in recent rainfall, Dees planted two experimental acres of dry-farmed grapes in a Jonata vineyard in \u003ca href=\"https://www.ballardcanyonava.org/\">Ballard Canyon\u003c/a>. He’d gotten to thinking, “What if the drought continues? What if nine inches of rain a year is the new normal? We’d better be ready.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dry farming, a method that’s been used for centuries to grow grapes, almonds, and olives in Mediterranean countries, requires soils with enough structure to hold moisture from \u003ca href=\"https://water.ca.gov/LegacyFiles/floodmgmt/hafoo/csc/docs/CA_Precipitation_2pager.pdf\">seasonal rains\u003c/a> for months at a time—in California, these rains happen between October and April. One method is to plant young vines that are grafted to vigorous rootstocks relatively far apart and water them for only their first two years in the ground. The point is to encourage their roots to dig deep into the dirt from which they’ll pull stored rainwater starting in year three.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135020\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-1-jonata-vineyards-700x468.jpg\" alt=\"Dry farmed grape vineyards\" width=\"700\" height=\"468\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135020\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-1-jonata-vineyards-700x468.jpg 700w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-1-jonata-vineyards-700x468-160x107.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dry farmed grape vineyards \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jonata)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“In dry farming, you’re putting resistance into the system,” says Stephen Gliessman, an emeritus agroecologist at the University of Santa Cruz who also co-owns the dry-farmed vineyard \u003ca href=\"http://www.condorshope.com/\">Condor’s Hope\u003c/a> in the Cuyama Valley of northern Santa Barbara County.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though plenty of wine grape growers in the state practice dry farming, the method represents a drop in the bucket of a $70 billion business. Tightly spaced, high-yield, drip-irrigated vineyards are much in favor; their practices encourage roots to hang out near the surface of the soil, where they expect to find water—and they can’t survive without a frequent fix.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dry-farming yields per acre can be lower; \u003ca href=\"http://www.caff.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/Dry-Farming-BMP-Guide_web.pdf\">some estimates\u003c/a> put them at two to three tons per acre, versus three to four tons for premium grapes. Fans of wines made from dry-farmed grapes, however, extoll their more complex flavors. “But vineyards today are too focused on maximizing yields rather than adapting to local conditions so they’re not so dependent on water,” Gliessman says. “They’re using a limited resource, and climate change makes it worse.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Small Farms Experimenting with New (Old) Methods\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Gliessman and his neighbors in the near-desert of Cuyama could watch this scenario play out at a vineyard \u003ca href=\"https://www.thecrimson.com/article/2019/3/6/hmc-vineyard-environmental-review/\">owned by the company\u003c/a> that manages Harvard University’s endowment. North Fork Vineyard’s irrigation system is drawing what Gliessman calls “excessive” groundwater from one of those 21 critically over-drafted aquifers. This water use has raised the hackles of residents, who are waiting to see how SGMA, which spurred \u003ca href=\"http://cuyamabasin.org/assets/pdf/Cuyama-GSP-Section-4-Monitoring-Networks.pdf\">Cuyama’s Groundwater Management Plan\u003c/a>, will affect the valley starting next year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Harvard’s vineyard, says Gliessman, is a prime example—although certainly not the only one—of grapes being planted in a manner that is not appropriate for the land and the available water. “Companies growing grapes industrially have to start accepting the fact that water-intensive systems are going to have to change.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the moment, though, it’s smaller wineries that seem most open to adapting. This is partly to do with finances. Big companies can afford to shell out for increasingly expensive water rights where needed, or purchase additional acres in cooler places, like British Columbia, says David Runsten, policy director of sustainability advocacy organization \u003ca href=\"https://www.caff.org/\">Community Alliance with Family Farmers\u003c/a> (CAFF). Smaller operations, he says, “are stuck where they are. But can they dry farm?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135021\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-3-grapes-with-cover-crops-caff.jpg\" alt=\"Dry-farmed grapevines with cover crops.\" width=\"640\" height=\"631\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135021\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-3-grapes-with-cover-crops-caff.jpg 640w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-3-grapes-with-cover-crops-caff-160x158.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dry-farmed grapevines with cover crops. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of CAFF)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jonata’s Dees is not the only one trying. More than half of Turley’s 50 vineyards across the state practice dry farming. Cline is experimenting with own-rooted—as opposed to grafted—vines on some near-dry-farmed blocks at its home base in Sonoma; Tsegeletos calls it “risky” due to pest concerns. \u003ca href=\"https://tablascreek.com/\">Tablas Creek\u003c/a>, in Paso Robles, mostly dry farms its roughly 120 acres and has set up 30 acres the “old-fashioned California way,” with vines far apart and no irrigation system installed, according to general manager Jason Haas. He says in those blocks, “Getting into harvest season in the drought years, it looked like there was no drought at all.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A grower can’t just one day decide to up and dry farm. “It requires thinking [in advance] about how to get vines to generate a deep root system,” says Haas; as vineyard parcels come to the end of their lives, though, they can be replaced. Dry farming also isn’t right if soils and rainfall aren’t a match.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Haas, Runsten, and Gliessman all think more vineyards could adopt the practice. In Mendocino County, says Runsten, many wineries irrigate their vines, “and I can’t understand why. They’re next to the Russian River and get plenty of rain.” He blames convention—the idea that “this is the way things are done”—and the risk-averse nature of vineyard consultants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“As you go farther north and closer to the coast, dry farming becomes more viable,” says Haas. Some winemakers argue that it could even work for \u003ca href=\"http://agwaterstewards.org/practices/dry_farming/\">all of landlocked Napa\u003c/a>, where \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/wine/article/Napa-wineries-confront-climate-change-by-planting-14308512.php\">the San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a> reported recently that climate-slammed vineyards are scrambling to try out heat-hardy varietals.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Spreading the Dry-Farming Gospel\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Tablas Creek and other vineyards have hosted seminars presented by CAFF to offer up research and help viticulturists think about adjusting the way they grow grapes. Runsten says there’s been a general pooh-poohing of some of CAFF’s projected climate models. On the flip side, Haas sees grower interest in dry farming increasing. “All over, there are people who are terrified” about the shifting climate, he says; to prepare, many of them are willing to try something new to them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135022\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 350px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-2-jonata-matt-dees-drew-pickering-ruben-solorzano-350x525.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Dees (center), with assistant winemaker Drew Pickering (left) and vineyard manager Ruben Solorzano (right).\" width=\"350\" height=\"525\" class=\"size-full wp-image-135022\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-2-jonata-matt-dees-drew-pickering-ruben-solorzano-350x525.jpg 350w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/10/190923-dry-farming-grapes-vineyards-california-wine-2-jonata-matt-dees-drew-pickering-ruben-solorzano-350x525-160x240.jpg 160w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 350px) 100vw, 350px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Dees (center), with assistant winemaker Drew Pickering (left) and vineyard manager Ruben Solorzano (right). \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Jonata)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Two years into his dry-farming experiment, Jonata’s Dees is not a card-carrying convert. “There are people who are taking up the dry-farming torch and saying the old vines are the ideal, but it’s not black and white to me,” he says. He thinks an “integrated” approach that reduces reliance on irrigation but also increases soil health, might be more viable for a lot of vineyards. California’s \u003ca href=\"http://calclimateag.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Healthy-Soils-Fact-Sheet-2018.pdf\">Healthy Soils Program makes grants\u003c/a> to wine grape growers for just that latter purpose.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, watching the young vines in his experimental block dig deep to find water has been eye opening, he says, and perhaps indicates that they’re stronger than he gave them credit for. There’s also “a feeling you get sometimes in vineyards, and this feels really good.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>CAFF received grant money from the California Department of Water Resources (DWR) to run seminars a few years ago and continues to conduct them when it can. DWR funds other water-use efficiency programs for vineyards, although they are mostly focused on irrigation systems, according to information shared by the department.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The CSWA supports water use reduction goals, too, including improved irrigation systems and monitoring with technology such as drones; encouraging best practices such as cover crop management; and third-party sustainability certification that includes a water component. The Alliance partnered with CAFF to produce some dry-farming case studies, says CSWA’s Jordan, who believes, too, that dry farming could expand in California. “In places where it’s appropriate, I think additional education will help increase rates” of adoption, she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But even beyond the focus of dry farming, Dees says, “Grumpy old farmers are getting together to talk about [sustainability]. That says a ton.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Contra Costa County, efforts to preserve the old vineyards continue. Cline’s Tsegeletos says that the city of Oakley seems genuinely interested in trying to keep them around, offering some rent-free acres. But should development amp up throughout the county, Gliessman says there will be repercussions, and not just for the vineyards. Swimming pools and lawns use a lot of groundwater; pavement “affects the capacity of systems to take in water, get it into the soil system, and help maintain groundwater—it all runs off instead.” Whoever’s left behind to use that water, they’ll have less of it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beyond that, Gliessman sees something urgent yet less visible at stake. “Taking the place of these small operations are large-scale industrial [ones],” he said. “What we’re losing are people who live on the land, work it, know it and its history, and are committed to sustainability. And that is what the future of agriculture should be.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/2019/10/03/can-dry-farming-help-save-californias-vineyards/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/135016/can-dry-farming-help-save-californias-vineyards","authors":["5583"],"categories":["bayareabites_13718","bayareabites_1874","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_2554","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_16478","bayareabites_12282","bayareabites_14748"],"featImg":"bayareabites_135018","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/possible-5gxfizEbKOJ-pbF5ASgxrs_.1400x1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/ATC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/powerpress/1440_0018_AmericanSuburb_iTunesTile_01.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/powerpress/1440_0017_BayCurious_iTunesTile_01.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2021/10/BBC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/CodeSwitchLifeKit_StationGraphics_300x300EmailGraphic.png","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. 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