When you step inside the Outer Mission complex that houses the La Cocina food business incubator kitchen and offices on a regular weekday afternoon, it’s easy to be overwhelmed by the busy chefs, the delicious smells of baked goods and roasting meats, and the constant whirl of activity in preparation for the various markets, kiosks and catering events coming up in a few hours. There are spots for eight participants in this kitchen and it definitely seems like a ninth would be impossible to squeeze in.
The space might be tight but the goals for the nonprofit are admirably enormous. Its mission is to find talented low-income food entrepreneurs, generally women of color and immigrant communities (a handful of men have been in the program, including the very successful Onigilly concept).
Caleb Zigas, La Cocina’s Executive Director who has been involved since it debuted in 2005, told us that the incubator’s 11 staff members avoid using words like “teach” or “empower.” These women have already identified a product that they excel at and a worthy price for it — they aren’t starting from scratch concept-wise, but they usually are just cooking for friends or selling from home. Zigas pointed out that, “They know everything there is to know about business. What they may not know is how to formalize that business into a marketplace that intentionally throws up barriers.”
We talked with five of La Cocina’s graduates who now have brick-and-mortar restaurants or kiosks. There were universal problems acknowledged by all where they could never possibly have defeated certain barriers without La Cocina’s assistance — the surging real estate prices, not speaking English well or looking a certain way being chief among them. Even La Cocina itself faces some of these problems for its proposed food hall planned for the heart of the struggling Tenderloin in 2019.
La Cocina’s program has three application deadlines a year and information orientations for interested individuals every other month. Once you’re in the program, it can take up to eight years to go through pre-incubation planning, the incubation period, finding capital and space, the exit to that space, and finally “graduation” when the business is self-sufficient. Yes, it can be as brisk as a one-year degree in theory but is much more likely to be a lengthy medical school and residency-type of time frame.
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La Cocina graduates have had incredible success in a wide variety of cuisines and business types. We talked with women serving Cambodian, Southern, Mexican, Arab and Gujarat (Indian) cooking. The current class includes Nepalese, Jamaican, Japanese and Salvadoran-themed businesses. Over 30 brick-and-mortars from graduates exist around the Bay Area (a handful are commissary kitchens).
Those present entrepreneurs in the La Cocina kitchen are following in the esteemed footsteps of women who never thought they would ever call a restaurant their own. Here are the stories of five graduates who are now navigating the Bay Area restaurant scene with their own businesses.
Barely 45 diners can fit into the serene, colorful dining room of Besharam, a spunky newcomer located in the Minnesota Street Project art gallery complex, in a far industrial corner of the Dogpatch. Despite the small size and isolated location, Besharam screams with relentless character that can be as boisterous as the heat in the spiced garlic sauce served with the grilled chicken kebab and hand-rolled flatbread at lunch. Chef and co-owner Heena Patel decided on the name, “shameless” in Hindi, because she knows she’s different than everyone else — in her family, in the Bay Area, in the world — and she isn’t afraid to show that, hey, she’s running the show at a restaurant in San Francisco and never in a million years would she have expected that while growing up as the second of five daughters in the Gujarat state of India.
There is bleu cheese naan with wasabi raita on the menu and a giant pop-art mural by HateCopy’s Maria Qamar next to the open kitchen with a Hindi woman drinking a cocktail. The soundtrack is bumping all lunch and dinner-long with Michael Jackson, Indian pop and seemingly everything in between. It’s definitely Heena’s restaurant.
So, there are pavs (sliders, a classic street food) served with little gems and pickled shiitake mushrooms on the menu, co-existing with a grilled zucchini salad and fish moilee with coconut curry and turmeric rice. In the evening, there are shishito peppers stuffed with a tamarind and chickpea filling; edamame dumplings in a lentil broth; paratha tacos accented by a strawberry-mint chutney; and ghee-roasted pork chops. Heema puts her Gujarat-meets-world philosophy about the always hotly debated “authenticity” question very bluntly: “You can take it or leave it.”
After all, she’s come all the way to this point from Gujarat to London to Marin County to full-time restaurant in San Francisco. She defeated the odds and has earned the right to cook what she wants to cook.
She got a home-science degree from Mumbai University and was given the common “a or b” decision from her father — continue studying and get a master’s degree, or go to London and find a man to marry. She elected for the latter and amidst all the boys who lined up for her, she found her husband, Paresh, after two weeks. When she was 25-years old and Paresh was 30, the couple and their then three-year old daughter moved from London to Marin County on a business visa. The two ran an adjacent liquor store and flower shop in Terra Linda (by San Rafael) for 20 years.
It wasn’t easy upon arriving in California for Heena, being someone who looks differently, speaks differently and didn’t know a word of English at the time. In 1992, Heena would struggle on the phone at the shops, answering calls and unable to communicate clearly, despite her best efforts. On the other end of the line, one particularly disrespectful man screamed at her for her lack of English and to this day gets her worked up emotionally. It was not a welcoming way for her to step into a supposedly welcoming country.
Sitting down with La Cocina alums in the past few weeks, we’ve found a theme in how there was a mutual connection that led the chef/entrepreneur to the program. That happened in 2013 for Heena where she self-admittedly had “zero idea of the food business” but “checked off all the boxes” for what La Cocina looks for. Heena really wanted to open a concept for serving her style of traditional and not-so-traditional Gujarati cuisine, and the program helped her craft a 90-page business plan…for the truck.
Have you seen that truck around San Francisco? Nope, we didn’t think so, because it never ended up happening. Instead, she started “Rasoi,” a Ferry Building farmers' market vendor concept. Heena also held pop-ups at the likes of Jardinière and State Bird Provisions. At the latter, she served a dessert to chef and co-owner Stuart Brioza, who was beyond thrilled with his first taste, seemingly having a life-altering epiphany. Talk about the ultimate compliment and confidence booster for a shy, upstart cook like Heena.
Then it all happened so fast with the restaurateur Daniel Patterson after La Cocina connected the two and she was invited to have lunch with him at his restaurant, Alta, in the Minnesota Street Project. Yes, that Daniel Patterson, the chef known for high-end cooking at San Francisco fine dining stalwarts like the now-closed Elisabeth Daniel and Coi. Heena was skeptical and even admitted to us, “I googled him — who is Daniel Patterson?” Recently, Patterson has become instrumental in championing socioeconomic diversity by working with Restaurants Opportunities Center United and helping aspiring restaurateurs, like Heena, defeat the odds.
At the lunch, Patterson offered the Alta space to Heena. It swept her off her feet. She could cook and do what she does so well, and be helped in what she’s less experienced with. Now, two months since opening, Heena has even more respect for Patterson than before she went into business with him. Simply put — the system of passionate chef, La Cocina education and renowned chef mentor/business system is working.
To date, the biggest question from diners for Heena has been, “Where is the chicken tikka masala?”, pigeon-holing the most well-known Indian dish to Americans that isn’t even a traditional Indian dish. (Answer: not at this restaurant). Heena has also been shocked by how savvy her customers are, estimating about 90% have an open mind (and don’t care about the lack of tikka masala) and love her adorably different, somewhat quirky concept. She also is hugely surprised by how many Indian customers just keep coming and coming, often with big groups of non-Indian colleagues and friends.
Indeed, it has been quite the journey from Gujarat to the Dogpatch for Heena and Paresh. Their 29-year old daughter is studying for the bar exam and their 21-year old son is an aspiring journalist, studying at Vassar College in New York. Everyone chips in to help at Besharam, whether on the floor or from afar. Both kids help their mom with something that is definitely not one of her biggest strengths: social media. Meanwhile, at the restaurant, Paresh helps with the front-of-house and also assists on the wine and newly-launched cocktail program with Alta Group Beverage Director, Aaron Paul.
Paresh should also get lots of credit for allowing San Francisco to have the privilege of knowing what he’s known for decades — how talented a chef Heena is. Once, when she was doubting if a restaurant would ever happen, he assured her that “what you serve is basic but people are hungry for it.” He was very correct, though bleu cheese naan is definitely not basic. San Francisco was starving for the open-minded style of cooking that Heena brings to the table.
No, there are no burritos on the menu at Veronica Salazar’s restaurant inside Larkspur’s tony Marin Country Mart. Of course, that’s one of the first things a good percentage of her diners notice on an initial visit and ask about. For Salazar, it’s pretty simple why there are no burritos to be found at El Huarache Loco — burritos aren’t really something people eat in Mexico. “Find them at Walmart” is her advice if you want a burrito in Mexico City because they serve them in the frozen food aisle (though she can’t vouch for if they’re delicious at all).
However, diners will find a thrilling roster of Mexico City street food and home cooking staples at El Huarache Loco, beginning with the namesake huaraches. They are thin-pressed, oval-shaped masa “tortillas” that are often thought of as “sandal-shaped.” If you’re still having trouble, just picture a flattened tamale, minus the banana leaf and with the fillings on top of the masa, and you’re kind of on the right track. The huarache is a platform for all kinds of toppings from ham, bacon and chorizo to tender rib meat (“costilla”) to the must-try nopales salad (cactus!). There is a thin layer of black bean paste between the tortilla and the toppings, then crowning garnishes of a rustic-zesty red salsa, cilantro, onions, cheese and the all-important squiggles of cool crema. Yes, it’s all kind of crazy but really it’s just downright delicious. (The “loco” in the name, by the way, is because it’s a fun word and El Huarache Loco is a common restaurant name in Mexico.)
Trust us, you’ll be wishing every burrito place served huaraches after your first one from Salazar.
She has been cooking them each Saturday morning at the Alemany Farmers' Market (the “People’s Market”) since 2006, just a year after joining the La Cocina program. Since coming to the Bay Area in 1995 with her husband, she had been cooking food at home for friends, family and pretty much anyone who wanted a taste of the CDMX (Ciudad de Mexico, the name Mexico City is often referred to in Mexico). Salazar first heard about a kitchen for low-income women from a news story on Univision and was soon in touch with La Cocina thanks to one of her customers. Salazar also was involved with the now-shuttered Women’s Initiative for Self Employment (also known as ALAS), who helped her hatch the all-important business plan.
Fast-forward to 2012 and Salazar’s popularity at Alemany made her a favorite of critics and diners alike (count this writer as one who visited in the early days and became an enormous fan). A developer in Marin County was looking for a chef to run a Mexican restaurant in their new rustic, high-end shopping complex by the Larkspur Ferry Terminal. Salazar noted to us recently that it was a pretty “ugly, lonely looking place” at first. But, she believed in it. The commute wouldn’t be so bad (after all, from her home in San Francisco, it takes just as long to get to La Cocina as it does to drive to Larkspur) and the crowds would come just like at Alemany.
The risk clearly worked as El Huarache Loco became the first restaurant opened by a La Cocina alum. Salazar pays homage to her La Cocina roots with a 2011 picture of her in the incubator’s kitchen with three fellow chefs, all of whom have successful full-time concepts today.
Around the restaurant, she also has many distinct nods to her Mexico City home and her family — a family that has run a restaurant, Caldos Rivera, for more than 60 years in the heart of the chaotic city. Salazar told us that as a woman in Mexico, “To live, you have to learn how to cook.” These dishes have been with her forever. Beyond huaraches, the menu in Larkspur includes “antojitos” (CDMX specials and appetizers), like a delicate, curled huitlacoche-filled (dark black corn fungus) quesadilla that is nothing like the greasy, cheesy, flat Tex-Mex quesadillas you’ve surely tried. There are other unfamiliar names to most Bay Area diners like pambazos, sopes, gorditas and tostadas. Breakfast features huevos rancheros and chilaquiles. There are also more familiar tacos in myriad formats and fillings, along with daily specials and enchiladas that are again not recognizable to most diners in the audience. Salazar honors her mother in the chop-like house “Doña Luz” salad with a smorgasbord of great ingredients because her mother was so great at tying together surplus ingredients into a salad.
Salazar doesn’t cut any corners. She makes her own masa for the tortillas; fantastic and not-too-sweet agua frescas are housemade; and the guacamole is prepared from scratch, along with a half-dozen types of salsa. She has had to adapt a bit for the Marin audience. Remember, while there are lots of adventurous diners ready to eat anything, anywhere — there are also plenty of soccer moms and rushed ferry commuters stopping by. So, tripe-filled menudo quickly left the menu. There is no tongue amongst the taco meats. There is, however, alphabet soup on the kid’s menu.
Salazar has found a home in a place that is about as far a 180-degree spin from hectic Mexico City as you can get. Inside El Huacache Loco, there are giant handmade rancho-style chairs and lots of the customary singing and dancing skeletons from Dia de los Muertos celebrations that you might find in her home city. Then walk outside and you’ll see a pond with koi and turtles, lots of relaxed locals who just left yoga class, and you’ll certainly notice how the exterior of El Huarache Loco is the same as everything else in the charming shopping area (freshly painted, chic farmhouse-looking).
In bucolic Marin, Salazar is still trying to defeat the naysayers who claim that this isn’t “real Mexican food.” Quite simply, anyone can think what they want to think, but we know that they’re wrong. Salazar definitely knows that they’re wrong because she is one of the Bay Area’s great ambassadors of the cuisine from one of the world’s grandest and most culturally enriching cities.
“Excuse me! I hate to interrupt, but may I just say that she makes THE best fried chicken I have ever had.”
A few seconds later, both the glowing customer and Fernay McPherson, the Chef-Owner of Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement, lightheartedly assure this food writer that this moment wasn’t staged for our interview. He genuinely feels that this crispy, succulent, rosemary-flecked plate of fried chicken was the greatest that he had ever encountered, even surpassing his longtime prior gold standard — of course, his own recipe.
As an hour goes by with McPherson, nobody else stops the interview other than a coworker asking a fryer question or her 13-year old son, Eric, stopping by because his summer job right now is working for his mom’s Emeryville Public Market kiosk four-days-a-week (Eric’s mom informs us that his favorite part of the job is counting the hours he’s worked and charging those hours).
But, once McPherson is back at her post in the tiny Minnie Bell’s space, roving between the cash register, the two fryers, the refrigerator full of Kool-Aid (a LOT of freshly-mixed, not exactly all-natural Kool-Aid), and the back’s prep areas, she’s receiving constant praise from happy customers of all ages and backgrounds. Maybe it’s the fact that the kiosk is in an isolated corner of a Public Market with constant construction? Maybe it’s McPherson’s ever-present upbeat charm? Maybe it’s because they’re all drinking the Minnie Bell’s Kool-Aid? Maybe…it’s the rosemary?
Yes, the rosemary fried chicken. It’s everything that a legendary fried chicken should be with a crunchy, ready-to-shatter crust that is gleefully free of grease, and meat that is as juicy as a ripe summer peach, whether you’re munching on drumstick, wing, breast or thigh. Rosemary has been the recipe’s staple since her early adult cooking days when she had rosemary on hand and sampled with it. Her recipe has no seasoning nor any buttermilk or a second dredging of batter. McPherson’s key move is to give the chicken a rosemary-hot sauce marinade for 24 hours or more. Then she fries the chicken and rosemary in clean oil (the kiosk closes between lunch and dinner for a labor-intensive oil switch-out).
With all of this chicken talk, Minnie Bell’s is by no means a one-hit wonder. The menu sticks to roughly a half-dozen supporting cast members, all of whom are vegetarian (no bacon, no lard). Well, the three-cheese mac & cheese with Parmesan, fontina and cheddar isn’t exactly a light selection, nor is the sweeter, fluffier-style of cornbread that McPherson makes with lots of brown butter. However, the smoky vegan red rice and beans and the red chili-accented braised greens are miles ahead of their peers in flavor complexity and a clean brightness that is never associated with them.
McPherson’s family is originally from New Mexico and Texas, and came to California as part of the mid-century Great Migration, a period when the Fillmore was booming as the “Harlem of the West.” A generation later, McPherson has called the Fillmore “home” for all but a couple years when she attended cooking school in Sacramento. Sadly, she has witnessed that neighborhood boom steadily fade. She’s hoping that one day Minnie Bell’s can play a part in bringing back that vibrant heyday for the corridor.
At first, her role in the kitchen for the family was to grate cheese for mac ‘n’ cheese, an activity that she admittedly “dreaded.” The first recipe she had to master was a Betty Crocker Dinette Cake. She gradually learned how to cook her family’s soul food recipes from her late grandmother Lillie Bell and her great aunt Minnie (now 85 years old). Their impact on her personal and professional life years later are why both are the namesakes of Minnie Bell’s and, frankly, why she was compelled to become a chef.
The concept launched as a mobile catering company, hence the Soul “Movement.” She joined La Cocina in 2011 and participated in the Fillmore Mobile Food Vendor and Artisan Marketplace program, a small business course that La Cocina taught with Urban Solutions, a nonprofit economic development organization. “Small businesses are what make the world go around,” McPherson tells us. Sadly, seven years later, the city is still “sleeping on the fact that we’re small businesses.”
During her time with La Cocina, Minnie Bell’s became increasingly in demand for catering and pop-ups, with the most notable of the latter being a substantial run at Wing Wings in the Lower Haight. Still, the permanent restaurant just wouldn’t come, but luckily a yearlong lease in the Emeryville Public Market emerged after fellow La Cocina alum Nyum Bai left.
The Fillmore is having huge dining growth, started by the blockbuster State Bird Provisions, and recently followed by the likes of Avery, Wise Sons and Merchant Roots. All are delicious and small (ish) businesses — and all are not black-owned. For McPherson, the scene on Fillmore is “bittersweet” because these are very worthy and considerate additions to the neighborhood, but “it’s a mystery” to her and “an eyesore for the community” how there are still so many prominently vacant storefronts in the corridor. Real estate developers keep holding out for someone to pay bigger and bigger bucks. It’s about the money. It’s all about the money. In the meantime, the potentially vibrant culture and significant foot traffic is kept away, other than the nightly State Bird Provisions line.
Soon, McPherson will get her permanent restaurant because she is an immensely gifted chef with the fervently devoted following that she deserves like that raving diner who paused our interview. Those fans will follow Minnie Bell’s wherever its movement goes.
Taste the steamed fish soufflé called “amok” and dip some exquisitely trimmed cucumbers into “prahok,” a homey and spicy ground pork dip, and you’ll simultaneously experience profound beauty and pain through a cuisine’s powerful story.
There is so much joy in Cambodian cooking, whether starting with a banana blossom, cabbage and sweet basil “ngoum banana salad” or digging into the slightly sweet, profoundly earthy and balanced “kuy teav Phnom Penh” noodles in a seven-hour pork broth that tastes much more like a complex craft cocktail at Trick Dog than the rugged tonkotsu ramen broth you would be expecting. Along with the food, there is tremendous beauty in the stunning natural setting and rich culture of Cambodia, one that is not very well known to the Bay Area audience. As Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Oakland’s five-month old restaurant, Nyum Bai, unfortunately points out — everyone seems to know about Angkor Wat’s temples and the genocide, and that’s about it for Cambodia. She’s trying to change that one guest at a time.
Nite’s earliest memories from her youth are eating rice with her hands on the floor of her family’s apartment in Stockton while mid-century Khmer rock and roll music played in the background. That was a common portrait of her life growing up in the Central Valley town, where she constantly grappled with the question of identity that countless immigrants in this country think about. Her life was nothing similar to her friends in high school — they probably didn’t even know where Cambodia was and definitely didn’t eat rice with their hands. On the flip side, she wasn’t really part of the Americana culture of eating hamburgers and watching TV shows all the time. Nite just focused on school and family, spending most of her time at home with her parents and two brothers (she’s the middle child).
She doesn’t have memories of before Stockton.
Nite’s parents dodged land mines, worked in labor camps and managed to flee the horrific genocide during the Khmer Rouge’s reign of terror in Cambodia during the late 1970s. Her parents spent five years in a refugee camp in Thailand where Nite was born. The family was sponsored by a church group in Texas and immigrated to the U.S. before quickly relocating to Stockton because of the large Cambodian expat community there.
Nite didn’t fully understand the scope of the genocide or why her parents didn’t open up much about their past until well into her youth. She acknowledges now that they struggled with a form of PTSD and that is a reason that she learned very little about her mysterious homeland of Cambodia until she grew older.
Trips back to Cambodia in her early adult years helped Nite better understand her heritage and planted the idea of Nyum Bai in her mind. At first, she spent four years at SF State in the nursing program but knew that wasn’t for her, telling us, “How could I be a nurse if I didn’t care? It was all compounded. Everything that was in the hospital I was so unhappy about, like learning about it was one thing, but actually working in the hospital, wearing scrubs [and] the lighting, the smells and everything, it was like, ‘Get me out of here!’”
It was on her third trip back to Cambodia, while eating a bowl of soup in a market, that she realized she should start her own food business. Through Nyum Bai, Nite says, she could open up her country by “sharing Cambodia [and] teaching people about Cambodia through the cuisine, but also a way for people to reunite with their roots.”
She had no idea how this was going to actually be a business. She didn’t have any formal culinary training other than cooking extensively with her mom and then on her own at college when she started missing her mom’s recipes. Though she lacked the business plan, she definitely didn’t lack what she describes as “purpose.” Nite set about on her own doing recipe testing and held private dinners at her home. A visit to the 2009 La Cocina Street Food Festival convinced her to reach out to the organization but she didn’t feel ready to truly be an entrepreneur. She incorrectly doubted herself. After all, she even knew that one of her mom’s frequent sayings, “Nyum Bai,” (a Cambodian phrase for “Eat rice” or “Let’s eat!”) should be the name of this future concept. Instead of having a formal interview, Nite was asked to cater a board meeting for La Cocina and that become an informal interview — a “trick” she admits — and Nite joined in 2014. Nyum Bai found a stall in the Emeryville Public Market in early 2017 (now occupied by Minnie Bell’s) and that expansion made the entire Bay Area realize that Cambodian food should be, and thankfully now is, on the map of vital cuisines to sample and learn more about.
Emeryville gave her lessons that she badly needed for achieving that grander dream — her own spot. Some of the challenges she encountered and had to get past included “learning how to be a leader, scaling up recipes, sharing my stories and opening up to strangers.” It didn’t take long for the opportunity of a permanent Oakland spot to appear.
The owner of the Fruitvale, Oakland burgers and craft beers spot, The Half Orange, was connected to La Cocina and informed the organization that he was going to be closing the business. Around the same time, Nite’s yearlong lease for Emeryville was winding down. It was a no-brainer match for Nyum Bai and Fruitvale (though her commute from West Oakland has gone from five minutes to fifteen minutes!).
The Half Orange’s narrow space, open kitchen and charming patio area, plus Fruitvale’s diversity and constant energy just felt like Nyum Bai’s right home. The dining room has a striking pink neon and aquatic blue slatted fixture, cheery bursts of white and bright colored paints, and Khmer rock and roll albums on the walls. The outside patio is festive and bustling, feeling like it could be a roadside market with its narrow bench seating, but is also singularly “Oakland” via the neighboring market’s mariachi music and piñatas.
The extensive dinner menu has three sections: starters like grilled beef skewers with a honey and “kroeung” (a Cambodian spice paste) dipping sauce, or taro, pork and glass noodle-filled crispy rolls; a trio of noodles dishes under their own heading; and “With Rice” dishes ranging from crispy catfish topped with green mango salad to the southern Khmer sweet and peppery pork belly stew called “koh.” Weekday lunch is counter-service and an abbreviated menu of noodles, rice plates, snacks and some intriguing salad and sandwich creations (new fried chicken sandwich alert!).
Fruitvale has been unpredictable in the early going for business because foot traffic can be a challenge (it’s a block removed from the BART station) and there isn’t the natural pull of a built-in residential area. Nite has really enjoyed seeing the mix of travelers going to Cambodia or those who recently visited, the countless adventurous Bay Area diners always on the lookout for learning about global cuisines, and how the region’s Cambodian population has certainly embraced her concept.
Nyum Bai is a deeply personal restaurant that reaches back to before Nite was born. You can feel that pain from her country’s past but the joy in the country’s resilience since such unspeakable tragedy. She wanted to provide “a space for the old and the new generation of Cambodians to come together and start healing” and has accomplished that.
“If you ever feel like giving up,” Nite says, “just remind yourself why you started the business in the first place.” Words can’t describe what her parents and her homeland went through. At least there is the warmth and beauty of food to connect generations and comfort each other.
Oakland doesn’t have a Tony Bennett-style flowery ballad nor does it boast iconic and widely photographed pyramids, cable cars and curvy, steep, garden-decorated streets. That’s not Oakland. You don’t leave your heart in The Town; you give your heart to it.
That has been the case for Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner of Reem’s in Fruitvale and Chef-Partner with Dyafa in Jack London Square, since she moved to Oakland. Growing up in the small Arab community just outside Boston and attending nearby Tufts University, Massachusetts never felt like a place meant for her, for reasons well beyond the predictably harsh winters. Oakland finally felt like “home” with its diversity, its energy and its sense of community.
Reem’s mother is Palestinian and her father is Syrian. The two met after both relocated to Beirut before coming to the United States together. All through her youth, Reem felt like a “stranger in a strange land,” trying to truly figure out her identity. She definitely didn’t think that identity was going to be as a chef — she actually wanted to be an actress and then shifted towards social justice and “trying to change the world” while at Tufts.
When Reem moved to the Bay Area in 2005 because she “was over Boston” and could crash on her uncle’s couch in Daly City, she ended up working at non-profits and as a community organizer in Oakland for a range of causes and issues from airport labor to urban development policies. It was on a trip in 2010 (just before the Arab Spring) to Lebanon and Syria when the idea for Reem’s was largely created after she absolutely adored the many street corner bakeries in Beirut and Damascus. She was struck not just by how delicious the pastries were, but also how these omnipresent bakeries were sort of like sanctuaries in a city full of constant turmoil — a situation not unlike Oakland, except her new home didn’t have those much-needed communal gathering spots.
So, Reem signed up for baking and pastry classes at Laney College in Oakland, but left after six months to join the well-known, worker-owned Arizmendi Bakery and Pizzeria in Emeryville. After those formative days, there was no doubt where Reem’s career was heading. She was connected to La Cocina in 2014 through the Women’s Initiative Center and initially wanted to have a wood-fired oven attached to a truck à la Del Popolo to cook her signature item, mana’eesh (puffy pita-like flatbreads). However, she points out that “out of practicality and learning how to run a food business, that concept changed.” Plus, her mom (incorrectly) had doubts about whether Americans would even like mana’eesh. The Reem’s concept pop-ups began first at the Mission Community Market and shortly thereafter she was a mega-hit at several farmers' markets, including the Ferry Building. Her production for the markets and catering was bursting at the seams of La Cocina. She essentially had to go.
With fortuitous timing, Reem was connected to a former Chinese fast food restaurant space in busy Fruitvale Village as her production was surging. It was the perfect spot geographically and physically for Reem’s brick-and-mortar debut, complete with plenty of baking and mana'eesh oven space.
The bakery/café has become a fixture for a diverse range of customers, heavy on families in the daytime and commuters in the evening. They come together to enjoy Reem’s “unapologetically Arab street food” with “California love.” That means saj wraps (flatbreads cooked on a dome-shaped griddle) and oven-baked mana’eesh topped with anything from za’atar made in Jordan to avocado to falafel to sujuk (a beef sausage) to soft-yolk farm fresh eggs. Guests will also find various baked goods, fattoush, spreads, and handheld “mu’ajinaat” pastries in flavors like lamb, pomegranate and pine nut.
The bakery took years to plan. The second restaurant took weeks.
Reem and the chef-restaurateur Daniel Patterson have both long been involved with Restaurants Opportunities Center United, an organization devoted to improving working conditions, wages and diversity in restaurant labor. A few months ago, Patterson informed Reem that his Jack London Square restaurant Haven was going to pivot concepts. She pitched to Patterson the idea of Dyafa, a hipper, more ambitious take on Arab cuisine concept named for “hospitality.” Quickly, Dyafa came to fruition and opened in April 2018, just a month after her son Zain was born. Talk about a busy spring and current summer for Reem.
Dyafa is very much “of the moment,” part of a nationwide trend of chic and eclectic Middle Eastern fine dining restaurants. At lunch and dinner, diners at Dyafa usually start with an order of those same mezze spreads as at Reem’s, highlighted by a smoky baba ghanoush that is so smoky that you’d swear it has an ounce of mezcal in it. Lunch tends to be more simpler fare, led by saj wraps that might be the “shish tawook” filled with spicy chicken kebab or turmeric-spiced cauliflower, eggplant and feta cheese in the “Steph Curry.” The latter is obviously an Oakland must-order for the name alone. Dinner sports a much more extensive selection of cold mezze and hot mezze, plus large plates like sumac-spiced chicken confit and braised lamb shank with garlic yogurt.
The two restaurants reside in two complete opposite worlds view-wise. Dyafa looks at the Oakland Estuary’s leisurely boats and tourist scene, while Reem’s 40-seat dining room and vast patio gazes at the frenetic area around Fruitvale BART. Only Dyafa, though, has a popular bar with excellent Arab-leaning cocktails from Alta Group Beverage Director Aaron Paul that seem to be popular even at noon on a weekday, with witty names to boot like To Yaffa With Love (vodka, cara cara orange, curaçao, Grand Poppy liqueur).
Dyafa also sports a sleek Middle East-meets-California nature design with tree roots dangling from exposed rafters and mosaic tiles on the floor. Reem’s is definitely not trying to be anything hip or lounge-like. Instead, the space is homey and charming as both a meal-gathering place and weekday freelance workforce office. It boasts bright colors (think light green, pink, yellow); Arabic script on the walls including the names of Kickstarter donors; a bakery case, open kitchen and ordering counter; and a mural of Rasmea Odeh and Oscar Grant (the unarmed black man killed at Fruitvale BART in 2009).
Ah, the mural. Much has been written about the controversy of the mural and Eater SF’s Andrew Dalton has a thorough breakdown of the situation last summer when “J., the Jewish News of California,” featured an op-ed denouncing the artwork’s meaning and a large controversy emerged.
In the aftermath, there were death threats, a cascade of threatening Yelp reviews (mostly from non-diners), protesters, a need for Oakland police to be stationed outside, and even a star turn in, of all places, Breitbart.
That all was definitely not in the business plan for a place that encourages to “#Feelthewarmth” and has a vision to “build strong, resilient community” in the power of food.
The mural is important to Reem because she sees Odeh, a Palestinian, as a “symbol of unfairness in immigration.” Odeh was convicted in 1969 of being involved in a supermarket bombing that killed two Israeli students in Jerusalem. After a decade in jail, she was freed in a prisoner exchange with the Palestinians and immigrated to the U.S. in the 1990s. She was instrumental in organizing the massive Women’s Marches of January 2017, but, because officials claimed that her conviction from 1969 was never reported to U.S. officials, Odeh was deported back to her homeland of Jordan last fall.
Reem continually seeks the healthy discussion that the topic badly needs, telling us “a lot of it wasn’t even about the mural. It was the fact that I was Palestinian and Arab.” She admits, “Naturally, that could’ve broken me down and forced me to be quiet, which, at the beginning I was afraid and didn’t know how to maneuver.” However, “the community came through ten times as much than the other side, like ‘we have your back.’ It created an opportunity for me to educate folks about who Rasmea is and why she’s important. And who Oscar Grant is and why the symbol of him on my wall is important.”
Race, religion, police actions, the question of Israel and Palestine, immigration — these are of course complex and touchy subjects, no doubt egged on by the current administration as Reem is quick to point out. Regardless of mural opinions, we all can agree that disrespectful Yelp reviews don’t help anything and that Reem’s model of worker fairness and community togetherness is a model that can — and should — defeat religious and political barriers.
At La Cocina, Reem realized that, yes, she wanted a small bakery but also be to big picture-minded. Remember “saving the world” at Tufts? She’s working at it. Reem and her peers are already making progress right at home in Fruitvale with a food and drink “ecosystem” between the bakery and neighbors Ale Industries and Red Bay Coffee (you can get both at Reem’s). She is hoping to make her own za’atar blend by hiring a group of refugees in the Bay Area to do the work. Who knows what else is on the horizon?
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“So much of my restaurants are an homage to Oakland,” Reem acknowledges. Whether you’re dining at Reem’s restaurants in Fruitvale or Jack London Square, you know that you’re at a place trying to lift up its community and you’re very much in Oakland.
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Find out more at \u003ca href=\"http://www.kimlaidlaw.com\">http://www.kimlaidlaw.com\u003c/a>.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/284503bc296b6f7822eb38b816292376?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":"kimilaw","instagram":null,"linkedin":"kimlaidlaw","sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Kim Laidlaw | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/284503bc296b6f7822eb38b816292376?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/284503bc296b6f7822eb38b816292376?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/kim-laidlaw"},"michael-procopio":{"type":"authors","id":"5017","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5017","found":true},"name":"Michael Procopio","firstName":"Michael","lastName":"Procopio","slug":"michael-procopio","email":"m_procopio@mac.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"I am terribly fond of martinis, Edward Gorey, and sleeping with many pillows. \r\nYou are more than welcome to follow me on Twitter: \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/#!/procopster\">@procopster\u003c/a>","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2eb848aac69d701cf1e2c3e88199feb4?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"procopster","facebook":"foodforthethoughtless","instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Michael Procopio | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2eb848aac69d701cf1e2c3e88199feb4?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2eb848aac69d701cf1e2c3e88199feb4?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/michael-procopio"},"stephanie-rosenbaum":{"type":"authors","id":"5038","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5038","found":true},"name":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen","firstName":"Stephanie","lastName":"Rosenbaum Klassen","slug":"stephanie-rosenbaum","email":"dixieday@aol.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen is a longtime local food writer, author, and cook. Her books include The Art of Vintage Cocktails (Egg & Dart Press), World of Doughnuts (Egg & Dart Press); Kids in the Kitchen: Fun Food (Williams Sonoma); Honey from Flower to Table (Chronicle Books) and The Astrology Cookbook: A Cosmic Guide to Feasts of Love (Manic D Press). She has studied organic farming at UCSC and holds a certificate in Ecological Horticulture from the Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems. She does frequent cooking demonstrations at local farmers’ markets and has taught food writing at Media Alliance in San Francisco and the Continuing Education program at Stanford University. She has been the lead restaurant critic for the San Francisco Bay Guardian as well as for San Francisco magazine. She has been an assistant chef at the Headlands Center for the Arts, an artists' residency program located in the Marin Headlands, and a production cook at the Marin Sun Farms Cafe in Pt Reyes Station. After some 20 years in San Francisco interspersed with stints in Oakland, Santa Cruz, Brooklyn, and Manhattan, she recently moved to Sonoma county but still writes in San Francisco several days a week.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"sjrosenbaum","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/stephanie-rosenbaum"},"mkahn":{"type":"authors","id":"5397","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5397","found":true},"name":"Mike Kahn","firstName":"Mike","lastName":"Kahn","slug":"mkahn","email":"mike@kahncious.net","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Mike Kahn is proud to be a Project Supervisor for KQED Presents, helping independent film producers distribute their programs nationally to public television. He has the pleasure to help distribute programs like Food Forward and Joanne Weir's Cooking Confidence (examples hand picked for you foodies out there!). Mike holds degrees in Sociology (U.C. Berkeley) and Interactive Media Design (Art Institute of California - San Francisco). Mike loves to learn about environmental sustainability and to share that knowledge with others through photography and multimedia projects. He's a Bay Area native and has been a lacto-ovo vegetarian for 15 years. His personal claim to fame is riding his bicycle across the U.S. from California to Maine, alone.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/454e17cccf0292ff36315df14bc7837e?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Mike Kahn | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/454e17cccf0292ff36315df14bc7837e?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/454e17cccf0292ff36315df14bc7837e?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/mkahn"},"katewilliams":{"type":"authors","id":"5485","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5485","found":true},"name":"Kate Williams","firstName":"Kate","lastName":"Williams","slug":"katewilliams","email":"williaka@gmail.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Kate Williams grew up outside of Atlanta, where twenty-pound baskets of peaches were an end-of-summer tradition. After spending time in Boston developing recipes for America's Test Kitchen and pretending to be a New Englander, she moved to sunny Berkeley. Here she works as a personal chef and food writer, covering topics ranging from taco trucks to modernist cookbooks. In addition to KQED's Bay Area Bites, Kate's work appears on Serious Eats, Berkeleyside NOSH, The Oxford American, America's Test Kitchen cookbooks, and Food52.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/25623fe56e181fe8b6ee92fd0ea077de?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"KateHWilliams","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Kate Williams | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/25623fe56e181fe8b6ee92fd0ea077de?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/25623fe56e181fe8b6ee92fd0ea077de?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/katewilliams"},"byline_bayareabites_129373":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_129373","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_129373","name":"\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/trevorfelch\">Trevor Felch\u003c/a> (writer), \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/wendy-goodfriend\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a> (photos/video)","isLoading":false}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"food_1337589":{"type":"posts","id":"food_1337589","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"food","id":"1337589","found":true},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"corn-tortilla","title":"Your Corn Tortilla Sucks…Science Can Fix It","publishDate":1714406452,"format":"video","headTitle":"Your Corn Tortilla Sucks…Science Can Fix It | KQED","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>You might think that corn tortilla from your favorite Mexican restaurant is as good as it gets, but chances are it’s made from a mass-produced corn powder. But fear not! A better corn tortilla exists and has existed for thousands of years. All you need is fresh corn and an ancient science that’s almost as old as civilization itself!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to Emmanuel Galvan, owner of \u003ca href=\"https://www.bolitamasa.com/\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Bolita Masa\u003c/a>, for unlocking the magic of corn tortillas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Subscribe to \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/@KQEDFood\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">KQED Food’s YouTube channel\u003c/a> to watch more Beyond The Menu videos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Read more:\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://masienda.com/products/masa-book\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Masa by Jorge Gaviria\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.epicurious.com/ingredients/what-is-nixtamal-article\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">What is nixtamal?\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.biorxiv.org/content/10.1101/2023.01.31.526540v1.full\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">How corn became corn\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://grist.org/technology/masa/\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">How the corn tortilla went corporate\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.texasmonthly.com/food/masa-masters-texas/\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">The masters of masa\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About Beyond The Menu:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe story of the food on your plate is more than just the recipe. Each ingredient and every cooking technique goes back hundreds if not thousands of years, traversing the globe on a wildly delicious cross-cultural adventure. In KQED’s new digital food series Beyond The Menu, host Cecilia Phillips interviews chefs, authors, and other experts to dig up surprising facts on the cultural pathways of today’s trendiest dishes. It’s a history show, it’s a mystery series, it’s a celebration of multicultural cuisine, sometimes it’s even a science program, all set against the backdrop of mouth-watering food cinematography.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":null,"status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1714177113,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":7,"wordCount":234},"headData":{"title":"Your Corn Tortilla Sucks…Science Can Fix It | KQED","description":"You might think that corn tortilla from your favorite Mexican restaurant is as good as it gets, but chances are it’s made from a mass-produced corn powder. But fear not! A better corn tortilla exists and has existed for thousands of years. All you need is fresh corn and an ancient science that’s almost as","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Your Corn Tortilla Sucks…Science Can Fix It","datePublished":"2024-04-29T16:00:52.000Z","dateModified":"2024-04-27T00:18:33.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"videoEmbed":"https://youtu.be/Ht1NVEHLgCs","sticky":false,"nprByline":"Derek Lartaud","excludeFromSiteSearch":"Include","showOnAuthorArchivePages":"No","articleAge":"0","path":"/food/1337589/corn-tortilla","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>You might think that corn tortilla from your favorite Mexican restaurant is as good as it gets, but chances are it’s made from a mass-produced corn powder. But fear not! A better corn tortilla exists and has existed for thousands of years. All you need is fresh corn and an ancient science that’s almost as old as civilization itself!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to Emmanuel Galvan, owner of \u003ca href=\"https://www.bolitamasa.com/\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Bolita Masa\u003c/a>, for unlocking the magic of corn tortillas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Subscribe to \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/@KQEDFood\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">KQED Food’s YouTube channel\u003c/a> to watch more Beyond The Menu videos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Read more:\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://masienda.com/products/masa-book\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Masa by Jorge Gaviria\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.epicurious.com/ingredients/what-is-nixtamal-article\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">What is nixtamal?\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.biorxiv.org/content/10.1101/2023.01.31.526540v1.full\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">How corn became corn\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://grist.org/technology/masa/\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">How the corn tortilla went corporate\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.texasmonthly.com/food/masa-masters-texas/\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">The masters of masa\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About Beyond The Menu:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe story of the food on your plate is more than just the recipe. Each ingredient and every cooking technique goes back hundreds if not thousands of years, traversing the globe on a wildly delicious cross-cultural adventure. In KQED’s new digital food series Beyond The Menu, host Cecilia Phillips interviews chefs, authors, and other experts to dig up surprising facts on the cultural pathways of today’s trendiest dishes. It’s a history show, it’s a mystery series, it’s a celebration of multicultural cuisine, sometimes it’s even a science program, all set against the backdrop of mouth-watering food cinematography.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/food/1337589/corn-tortilla","authors":["byline_food_1337589"],"series":["food_311"],"categories":["food_1"],"tags":["food_114","food_313","food_312","food_143","food_328"],"featImg":"food_1337594","label":"food"},"food_1337576":{"type":"posts","id":"food_1337576","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"food","id":"1337576","found":true},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"samosa","title":"Samosas aren’t from India…Wait, what?","publishDate":1713200788,"format":"video","headTitle":"Samosas aren’t from India…Wait, what? | KQED","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>Have you ever wondered about the delicious samosa – the perfect starter to any Indian meal? We discovered that this bite-size street food has an epic history and it starts, not in India, but actually beyond the subcontinent. The samosas became such a crowd pleaser that even a famous Sultan/Emperor was enamored by them. The amazing thing about the samosa you enjoy today – is that it is only one of the many iterations that exists around the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to Hetal Vasavada, author of the cook book ‘Milk and Cardamom’ for sharing her story and showing us how to make Gujarati style samosas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Subscribe to \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/@KQEDFood\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">KQED Food’s YouTube channel\u003c/a> to watch more Beyond The Menu videos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Read more:\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.baytalfann.com/post/the-story-of-the-samosa\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Story of the Samosa\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://recipes.timesofindia.com/articles/food-facts/this-story-about-samosas-origin-will-break-your-heart/pThe%20Story%20of%20the%20Samosahotostory/62220155.cms?picid=62220231\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">This story about samosa’s origin will break your heart\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-36548445\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The story of India as told by a humble street snack\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.thebetterindia.com/80824/samosa-history-india/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">TBI Food Secrets: Unravelling the Fascinating History of the Samosa, India’s Favourite Street Snack\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://milkandcardamom.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Hetal Vasavada\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.sheffield.ac.uk/history/people/research/neha-vermani\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Dr. Neha Vermani\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://milkandcardamom.com/2020/05/14/samosa/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Hetal Vasavada’s samosa recipe\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About Beyond The Menu:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe story of the food on your plate is more than just the recipe. Each ingredient and every cooking technique goes back hundreds if not thousands of years, traversing the globe on a wildly delicious cross-cultural adventure. In KQED’s new digital food series Beyond The Menu, host Cecilia Phillips interviews chefs, authors, and other experts to dig up surprising facts on the cultural pathways of today’s trendiest dishes. It’s a history show, it’s a mystery series, it’s a celebration of multicultural cuisine, sometimes it’s even a science program, all set against the backdrop of mouth-watering food cinematography.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":null,"status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1713200804,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":7,"wordCount":296},"headData":{"title":"Samosas aren’t from India…Wait, what? | KQED","description":"Have you ever wondered about the delicious samosa – the perfect starter to any Indian meal? We discovered that this bite-size street food has an epic history and it starts, not in India, but actually beyond the subcontinent. The samosas became such a crowd pleaser that even a famous Sultan/Emperor was enamored by them. The amazing thing about the samosa you enjoy today – is that it is only one of the many iterations that exists around the world. Thanks to Hetal Vasavada, author of the cook book ‘Milk and Cardamom’ for sharing her story and showing us how to","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Samosas aren’t from India…Wait, what?","datePublished":"2024-04-15T17:06:28.000Z","dateModified":"2024-04-15T17:06:44.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"videoEmbed":"https://youtu.be/Hzye3hGNulQ?si=-GwUfo48P7IopX5C","source":"Food","sourceUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/food","sticky":false,"WpOldSlug":"samosas-arent-from-indiawait-what","nprByline":"Manjula Varghese","subhead":"The samosa, the bite-size Indian street food, is actually not from India","excludeFromSiteSearch":"Include","showOnAuthorArchivePages":"No","articleAge":"0","path":"/food/1337576/samosa","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Have you ever wondered about the delicious samosa – the perfect starter to any Indian meal? We discovered that this bite-size street food has an epic history and it starts, not in India, but actually beyond the subcontinent. The samosas became such a crowd pleaser that even a famous Sultan/Emperor was enamored by them. The amazing thing about the samosa you enjoy today – is that it is only one of the many iterations that exists around the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to Hetal Vasavada, author of the cook book ‘Milk and Cardamom’ for sharing her story and showing us how to make Gujarati style samosas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Subscribe to \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/@KQEDFood\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">KQED Food’s YouTube channel\u003c/a> to watch more Beyond The Menu videos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Read more:\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.baytalfann.com/post/the-story-of-the-samosa\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The Story of the Samosa\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://recipes.timesofindia.com/articles/food-facts/this-story-about-samosas-origin-will-break-your-heart/pThe%20Story%20of%20the%20Samosahotostory/62220155.cms?picid=62220231\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">This story about samosa’s origin will break your heart\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-36548445\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The story of India as told by a humble street snack\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.thebetterindia.com/80824/samosa-history-india/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">TBI Food Secrets: Unravelling the Fascinating History of the Samosa, India’s Favourite Street Snack\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://milkandcardamom.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Hetal Vasavada\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.sheffield.ac.uk/history/people/research/neha-vermani\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Dr. Neha Vermani\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://milkandcardamom.com/2020/05/14/samosa/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Hetal Vasavada’s samosa recipe\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About Beyond The Menu:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe story of the food on your plate is more than just the recipe. Each ingredient and every cooking technique goes back hundreds if not thousands of years, traversing the globe on a wildly delicious cross-cultural adventure. In KQED’s new digital food series Beyond The Menu, host Cecilia Phillips interviews chefs, authors, and other experts to dig up surprising facts on the cultural pathways of today’s trendiest dishes. It’s a history show, it’s a mystery series, it’s a celebration of multicultural cuisine, sometimes it’s even a science program, all set against the backdrop of mouth-watering food cinematography.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/food/1337576/samosa","authors":["byline_food_1337576"],"series":["food_311"],"categories":["food_1"],"tags":["food_114","food_313","food_312","food_143","food_328"],"featImg":"food_1337580","label":"source_food_1337576"},"bayareabites_95128":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_95128","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"95128","found":true},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"springtime-delight-rhubarb-puff-tart-pockets","title":"Springtime Delight: Rhubarb Puff-Tart Pockets","publishDate":1432134035,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>Like a pop-tart, only way better, these light-as-air puff pastry tartlets are stuffed with vanilla-scented rhubarb compote.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my all-time favorite fruits has to be rhubarb. (Yes, yes, it is botanically a vegetable but everyone uses it as a fruit.) And these puff tarts – kinda like pop-tarts only way better – have to be one of my all-time favorite ways to eat it. Gently simmered and perfumed with vanilla bean, the rhubarb compote is stuffed into flaky, buttery puff pastry then baked until the pastry is shatter-crisp and golden brown on the outside and the hidden tart-sweet fruit bubbles on the inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[contextly_sidebar id=\"PZakeBeS83KC8k8Pkmm643cXc8VpOYjg\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I recommend seeking out a great-quality, all-butter puff pastry such as \u003ca href=\"http://www.dufourpastrykitchens.com/products-puff.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Dufour\u003c/a>, which you can typically find at Whole Foods or other upscale markets. Some bakeries will also sell it by the pound, such as \u003ca href=\"http://www.lafarine.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">La Farine Bakery\u003c/a> in Rockridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You may end up with more rhubarb than you need but it’s great spooned over plain yogurt, pound cake, or vanilla ice cream. Use the juice to make rhubarb sodas or as a simple syrup in a cocktail.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, when it’s not in season, feel free to swap out the rhubarb for other fruits: berries, peaches, nectarines, apples, or pears all make superb puff tarts!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96135\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96135\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-dice.jpg\" alt=\"Rhubarb, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch pieces\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-dice.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-dice-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-dice-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-dice-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-dice-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-dice-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rhubarb, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch pieces \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Rhubarb Puff-Tart Pockets\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 8 tarts\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>3/4 lbs (about 4–5 stalks) rhubarb, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>About 1/3 cup sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 vanilla bean\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 lb puff pastry\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Turbinado sugar, for sprinkling\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Using a paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape out the seeds with the back of the knife. Add the rhubarb, sugar, and vanilla bean seeds and pod to a saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the rhubarb releases its juices and becomes tender but still holds its shape, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool completely. (You may have more than you need; store any remaining in an airtight container for up to 1 week.)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"96156,96145,96131,96132\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Line two baking sheets with parchment. On a lightly floured work surface roll out the puff to a rectangle just larger than 10-by-20-inches. Trim the edges to 10-by-20-inches. Cut out eight 5-inch squares (or, if you cut out 8 rectangles, that’s fine too). Place the squares on one baking sheet and refrigerate for 10 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"96148,96134,96152\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Space the racks are equally in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 400F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Moving quickly, remove the puff from the refrigerator. For each turnover, using a slotted spoon and letting the juices drain back into the bowl, place a few tablespoons rhubarb in the center of the square. Brush two sides of the dough with the egg wash and fold over into a rectangle (you can also fold it into a triangle if it’s a perfect square). Crimp the edge with a fork and place on the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with all 8 turnovers, placing 4 on each baking sheet. Refrigerate for about 10 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"96151,96137,96139,96141,96144\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Brush with the egg wash, pierce the top a few times with a fork or make cuts with a knife, sprinkle with the turbinado sugar, and bake until nicely browned and puffy, about 25 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes, then dig in!\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"96130,96149,96154,96128,96133\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96142\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96142\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-final-vertical.jpg\" alt=\"Rhubarb Puff-Tart Pockets\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-final-vertical.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-final-vertical-400x600.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-final-vertical-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-final-vertical-1440x2160.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-final-vertical-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-final-vertical-960x1440.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rhubarb Puff-Tart Pockets \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Like a pop-tart, only way better, these light-as-air puff pastry tartlets are stuffed with vanilla-scented rhubarb compote.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1556744711,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":true,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":15,"wordCount":653},"headData":{"title":"Springtime Delight: Rhubarb Puff-Tart Pockets | KQED","description":"Like a pop-tart, only way better, these light-as-air puff pastry tartlets are stuffed with vanilla-scented rhubarb compote.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Springtime Delight: Rhubarb Puff-Tart Pockets","datePublished":"2015-05-20T15:00:35.000Z","dateModified":"2019-05-01T21:05:11.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"95128 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=95128","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/05/20/springtime-delight-rhubarb-puff-tart-pockets/","disqusTitle":"Springtime Delight: Rhubarb Puff-Tart Pockets","path":"/bayareabites/95128/springtime-delight-rhubarb-puff-tart-pockets","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Like a pop-tart, only way better, these light-as-air puff pastry tartlets are stuffed with vanilla-scented rhubarb compote.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of my all-time favorite fruits has to be rhubarb. (Yes, yes, it is botanically a vegetable but everyone uses it as a fruit.) And these puff tarts – kinda like pop-tarts only way better – have to be one of my all-time favorite ways to eat it. Gently simmered and perfumed with vanilla bean, the rhubarb compote is stuffed into flaky, buttery puff pastry then baked until the pastry is shatter-crisp and golden brown on the outside and the hidden tart-sweet fruit bubbles on the inside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I recommend seeking out a great-quality, all-butter puff pastry such as \u003ca href=\"http://www.dufourpastrykitchens.com/products-puff.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Dufour\u003c/a>, which you can typically find at Whole Foods or other upscale markets. Some bakeries will also sell it by the pound, such as \u003ca href=\"http://www.lafarine.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">La Farine Bakery\u003c/a> in Rockridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You may end up with more rhubarb than you need but it’s great spooned over plain yogurt, pound cake, or vanilla ice cream. Use the juice to make rhubarb sodas or as a simple syrup in a cocktail.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Also, when it’s not in season, feel free to swap out the rhubarb for other fruits: berries, peaches, nectarines, apples, or pears all make superb puff tarts!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96135\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96135\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-dice.jpg\" alt=\"Rhubarb, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch pieces\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-dice.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-dice-400x267.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-dice-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-dice-1440x960.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-dice-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-dice-960x640.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rhubarb, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch pieces \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Recipe: Rhubarb Puff-Tart Pockets\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 8 tarts\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>3/4 lbs (about 4–5 stalks) rhubarb, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch pieces\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>About 1/3 cup sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 vanilla bean\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 lb puff pastry\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Turbinado sugar, for sprinkling\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Using a paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape out the seeds with the back of the knife. Add the rhubarb, sugar, and vanilla bean seeds and pod to a saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the rhubarb releases its juices and becomes tender but still holds its shape, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool completely. (You may have more than you need; store any remaining in an airtight container for up to 1 week.)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","link":"none","size":"full","ids":"96156,96145,96131,96132","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Line two baking sheets with parchment. On a lightly floured work surface roll out the puff to a rectangle just larger than 10-by-20-inches. Trim the edges to 10-by-20-inches. Cut out eight 5-inch squares (or, if you cut out 8 rectangles, that’s fine too). Place the squares on one baking sheet and refrigerate for 10 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","link":"none","size":"full","ids":"96148,96134,96152","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Space the racks are equally in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 400F.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Moving quickly, remove the puff from the refrigerator. For each turnover, using a slotted spoon and letting the juices drain back into the bowl, place a few tablespoons rhubarb in the center of the square. Brush two sides of the dough with the egg wash and fold over into a rectangle (you can also fold it into a triangle if it’s a perfect square). Crimp the edge with a fork and place on the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with all 8 turnovers, placing 4 on each baking sheet. Refrigerate for about 10 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","link":"none","size":"full","ids":"96151,96137,96139,96141,96144","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Brush with the egg wash, pierce the top a few times with a fork or make cuts with a knife, sprinkle with the turbinado sugar, and bake until nicely browned and puffy, about 25 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes, then dig in!\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","link":"none","size":"full","ids":"96130,96149,96154,96128,96133","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_96142\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-96142\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-final-vertical.jpg\" alt=\"Rhubarb Puff-Tart Pockets\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-final-vertical.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-final-vertical-400x600.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-final-vertical-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-final-vertical-1440x2160.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-final-vertical-1180x1770.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/05/rhubarb-final-vertical-960x1440.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rhubarb Puff-Tart Pockets \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/95128/springtime-delight-rhubarb-puff-tart-pockets","authors":["5015","5014"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_12550","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_14362","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_16291","bayareabites_14738","bayareabites_2139","bayareabites_8986"],"featImg":"bayareabites_96143","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_51586":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_51586","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"51586","found":true},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"food-labeling-how-to-identify-conventional-organic-and-gmo-produce","title":"Food Labeling: How to Identify Conventional, Organic and GMO Produce","publishDate":1353400487,"format":"video","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What can you tell from those numbers on fruit and vegetable stickers?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The price look-up (PLU) code system used by most produce distributors has the side benefit of allowing consumers to identify conventional and organic produce at the grocery store. Even though the defeat of \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/election2012/2012/11/07/voters-defeat-effort-to-require-gmo-labels-on-foods-proponents-say-they-will-fight-on/\">Proposition 37\u003c/a> means that genetically engineered information will not be added to labels at this time, PLU codes do have the potential to identify genetically engineered produce. This video shows you how to read PLU codes to unlock the information that is already right at your fingertips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/labeling560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/labeling560.jpg\" alt=\"How to Use Price Look-Up Codes on Produce\" title=\"How to Use Price Look-Up Codes on Produce\" width=\"560\" height=\"314\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-51595\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Using Price Look-up Codes (PLUs), the Nutshell:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>PLU codes are four digit numbers that identify different types of produce. For example, #4011 is the code for a standard yellow banana.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The number 9 prefix added to a PLU signifies that an item is organic. For example, #94011 is the code for an organic yellow banana.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>A number 8 prefix added to a PLU signifies that an item is genetically engineered (GE). For example, #84011 is the code for a genetically engineered yellow banana.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>PLU codes and their organic prefixes are in wide use but GE codes are rare at best.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>More info:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://plucodes.com\">Price Look-up Codes\u003c/a> (International Federation for Produce Standards)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fda.gov/Food/GuidanceComplianceRegulatoryInformation/GuidanceDocuments/Biotechnology/default.htm\">U.S. FDA Biotechnology Safety Assessments\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nongmoshoppingguide.com\">Non-GMO Shopping Guide\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"What can you tell from those numbers on fruit and vegetable stickers? The price look-up (PLU) code system used by most produce distributors has the side benefit of allowing consumers to identify conventional and organic produce at the grocery store.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1502454171,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":5,"wordCount":217},"headData":{"title":"Food Labeling: How to Identify Conventional, Organic and GMO Produce | KQED","description":"What can you tell from those numbers on fruit and vegetable stickers? The price look-up (PLU) code system used by most produce distributors has the side benefit of allowing consumers to identify conventional and organic produce at the grocery store.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Food Labeling: How to Identify Conventional, Organic and GMO Produce","datePublished":"2012-11-20T08:34:47.000Z","dateModified":"2017-08-11T12:22:51.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"51586 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=51586","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/11/20/food-labeling-how-to-identify-conventional-organic-and-gmo-produce/","disqusTitle":"Food Labeling: How to Identify Conventional, Organic and GMO Produce","videoEmbed":"https://youtu.be/0eL_W48yGP0","path":"/bayareabites/51586/food-labeling-how-to-identify-conventional-organic-and-gmo-produce","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What can you tell from those numbers on fruit and vegetable stickers?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The price look-up (PLU) code system used by most produce distributors has the side benefit of allowing consumers to identify conventional and organic produce at the grocery store. Even though the defeat of \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/election2012/2012/11/07/voters-defeat-effort-to-require-gmo-labels-on-foods-proponents-say-they-will-fight-on/\">Proposition 37\u003c/a> means that genetically engineered information will not be added to labels at this time, PLU codes do have the potential to identify genetically engineered produce. This video shows you how to read PLU codes to unlock the information that is already right at your fingertips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/labeling560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/11/labeling560.jpg\" alt=\"How to Use Price Look-Up Codes on Produce\" title=\"How to Use Price Look-Up Codes on Produce\" width=\"560\" height=\"314\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-51595\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Using Price Look-up Codes (PLUs), the Nutshell:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>PLU codes are four digit numbers that identify different types of produce. For example, #4011 is the code for a standard yellow banana.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The number 9 prefix added to a PLU signifies that an item is organic. For example, #94011 is the code for an organic yellow banana.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>A number 8 prefix added to a PLU signifies that an item is genetically engineered (GE). For example, #84011 is the code for a genetically engineered yellow banana.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>PLU codes and their organic prefixes are in wide use but GE codes are rare at best.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>More info:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://plucodes.com\">Price Look-up Codes\u003c/a> (International Federation for Produce Standards)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.fda.gov/Food/GuidanceComplianceRegulatoryInformation/GuidanceDocuments/Biotechnology/default.htm\">U.S. FDA Biotechnology Safety Assessments\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nongmoshoppingguide.com\">Non-GMO Shopping Guide\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/51586/food-labeling-how-to-identify-conventional-organic-and-gmo-produce","authors":["5397"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1593","bayareabites_316"],"tags":["bayareabites_10802","bayareabites_10772","bayareabites_10882","bayareabites_10787","bayareabites_10774","bayareabites_65"],"featImg":"bayareabites_51594","label":"bayareabites"},"food_1337517":{"type":"posts","id":"food_1337517","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"food","id":"1337517","found":true},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"pineapple-buns","title":"Hong Kong’s Most Popular Treat Has A Surprising Backstory","publishDate":1711132262,"format":"video","headTitle":"Hong Kong’s Most Popular Treat Has A Surprising Backstory | KQED","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>You can’t tell the full story of Hong Kong without the iconic pineapple bun, yet how it appeared on the scene in the first place remains a mystery. One of the city’s oldest bakeries has been serving it since 1943, but before that, the story gets murky. Some say it all began in the 1920s with an Armenian pastry chef working at the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo. Others say it originated with a family deported from Mexico in the 1930s. Watch the video for a delicious, cross-continental journey to get to the bottom of everything.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to Kristina Cho, James Beard award-winning author of ‘Mooncakes & Milk Bread’, for sharing her story and showing us how to make pineapple buns from scratch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Subscribe to \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/@KQEDFood\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">KQED Food’s YouTube channel\u003c/a> to watch more Beyond The Menu videos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Read more:\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.tastingtable.com/998515/what-hong-kong-style-pineapple-buns-are-really-made-of/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Pineapple bun basics\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.tokyoweekender.com/food-and-drink/melon-pan/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">History of Japanese melonpan\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://zolimacitymag.com/the-origin-of-hong-kongs-mexico-bun-a-story-of-exile-and-return/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Origin of the Hong Kong Mexico bun\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2016/2/19/11054298/conchas-mexico-pastry\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Everything you need to know about Mexican conchas\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About Beyond The Menu:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe story of the food on your plate is more than just the recipe. Each ingredient and every cooking technique goes back hundreds if not thousands of years, traversing the globe on a wildly delicious cross-cultural adventure. In KQED’s new digital food series Beyond The Menu, host Cecilia Phillips interviews chefs, authors, and other experts to dig up surprising facts on the cultural pathways of today’s trendiest dishes. It’s a history show, it’s a mystery series, it’s a celebration of multicultural cuisine, sometimes it’s even a science program, all set against the backdrop of mouth-watering food cinematography.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":null,"status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1713200915,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":7,"wordCount":288},"headData":{"title":"Hong Kong’s Most Popular Treat Has A Surprising Backstory | KQED","description":"You can’t tell the full story of Hong Kong without the iconic pineapple bun, yet how it appeared on the scene in the first place remains a mystery. One of the city’s oldest bakeries has been serving it since 1943, but before that, the story gets murky. Some say it all began in the 1920s with an Armenian pastry chef working at the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo. Others say it originated with a family deported from Mexico in the 1930s. Watch the video for a delicious, cross-continental journey to get to the bottom of everything. Thanks to Kristina Cho, James","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Hong Kong’s Most Popular Treat Has A Surprising Backstory","datePublished":"2024-03-22T18:31:02.000Z","dateModified":"2024-04-15T17:08:35.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"videoEmbed":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHMkrB6TXnw","source":"Food","sourceUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/food","sticky":false,"nprByline":"Derek Lartaud","excludeFromSiteSearch":"Include","showOnAuthorArchivePages":"Yes","articleAge":"0","path":"/food/1337517/pineapple-buns","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>You can’t tell the full story of Hong Kong without the iconic pineapple bun, yet how it appeared on the scene in the first place remains a mystery. One of the city’s oldest bakeries has been serving it since 1943, but before that, the story gets murky. Some say it all began in the 1920s with an Armenian pastry chef working at the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo. Others say it originated with a family deported from Mexico in the 1930s. Watch the video for a delicious, cross-continental journey to get to the bottom of everything.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thanks to Kristina Cho, James Beard award-winning author of ‘Mooncakes & Milk Bread’, for sharing her story and showing us how to make pineapple buns from scratch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Subscribe to \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/@KQEDFood\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">KQED Food’s YouTube channel\u003c/a> to watch more Beyond The Menu videos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Read more:\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.tastingtable.com/998515/what-hong-kong-style-pineapple-buns-are-really-made-of/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Pineapple bun basics\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.tokyoweekender.com/food-and-drink/melon-pan/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">History of Japanese melonpan\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://zolimacitymag.com/the-origin-of-hong-kongs-mexico-bun-a-story-of-exile-and-return/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Origin of the Hong Kong Mexico bun\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"https://www.eater.com/2016/2/19/11054298/conchas-mexico-pastry\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Everything you need to know about Mexican conchas\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About Beyond The Menu:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe story of the food on your plate is more than just the recipe. Each ingredient and every cooking technique goes back hundreds if not thousands of years, traversing the globe on a wildly delicious cross-cultural adventure. In KQED’s new digital food series Beyond The Menu, host Cecilia Phillips interviews chefs, authors, and other experts to dig up surprising facts on the cultural pathways of today’s trendiest dishes. It’s a history show, it’s a mystery series, it’s a celebration of multicultural cuisine, sometimes it’s even a science program, all set against the backdrop of mouth-watering food cinematography.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/food/1337517/pineapple-buns","authors":["byline_food_1337517"],"series":["food_311"],"categories":["food_1"],"tags":["food_114","food_313","food_312","food_143","food_138"],"featImg":"food_1337521","label":"source_food_1337517"},"bayareabites_3920":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_3920","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"3920","found":true},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"check-please-how-to-pay-without-looking-like-a-fool-or-making-everyone-uncomfortable","title":"Check, Please: How to Pay without looking like a fool or making everyone uncomfortable.","publishDate":1243008279,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>For most diners, paying one's bill at the finish of a restaurant meal is a simple, uncomplicated process, a no-brainer. Or should be. It never fails to amaze me how many people screw this up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ideal execution of bill getting-and-paying should be a near-non-event. The only words exchanged should be those of thanks between the payer and the server, and from the recipients of the evening's generosity to one giving it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This should be obvious to most of you out there. Hopefully. Sadly, it isn't to everyone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Here are a few handy tips on how to pay a restaurant bill with grace:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a fine dining environment, when a server delivers the bill to a table, he or she will either place it nearest the host or hand it directly to him/her if the host reaches out for it, or place the bill in the center of the table if the host is not clearly certain (for example, if more than one person orders wine or food for the table as a whole). Typically, we assume that the person paying is the one who asks for the check. If that happens to be you, please proceed to step 2.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. When you are ready to make payment, place your credit card, cash, cowrie shells, or whatever method of payment is accepted inside the bill folder with just enough spilling out to indicate that you are ready to make payment. This is important. It is most likely (and hoped for) that your server will not be staring at you as you rifle through your wallet. When you have accomplished this feat, place the bill folder at the edge of the table next to you or, if you are seated in a booth, the end of the table nearest the server's approach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I find it surprising how many people do not understand this small-but-important ritual. The folder could be stuffed with cash, but if it looks as though it has been both untouched and unmoved, it's not going anywhere. Servers are often expected to read the minds of guests, but I think they deserve a little help on this one. Please, make it obvious that you are ready to give payment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. When the server hands you back your bill, sign it at your leisure, but when you are finished, please place it back on the edge of the table. Your server may then take it away. He (in most cases) is not taking it away out of greed, but rather to take care of the paperwork, especially if you have paid by credit card. Your bill must be closed with the proper paperwork. \u003cstrong>Read: the restaurant's copy of the credit card receipt.\u003c/strong> If, in your wine-soaked joy of the evening, you have accidentally pocketed the receipt (and we've all done it at least once, waiters included), the server might gently ask you for it as you leave. You might expect your server to guess what sort of wine you might like with your pork, but do you really expect him or her to guess the amount of gratuity you've left? I didn't think so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Isn't that easy? Yes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now for a couple of other hints.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You've been Declined\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If your credit card is declined, it is not necessarily your fault (credit card companies sometimes put a hold on cards on which an unusual amount of spending has occurred at any given time, etc.), but it definitely is not your server's. As a waiter, this can be remarkably painful. I worry that I am embarrassing one of my guests-- especially one of my guests who happens to be leaving me a tip. Any server worth his salt will just treat it (outwardly) that it's no big deal and, rather than say, \"I'm sorry, your card's been declined,\" will say something to the effect of, \"Excuse me, do you have another card? This one doesn't seem to be working.\" Unless I'm handed one of those black titanium American Express cards. Then I always give a little frown and tell them it's declined. The response is invariably one of, \"Uh huh. Sure it is.\" And then I go away and giggle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Essentially, if you are planning on taking people out to dinner, have a back up payment method. If you see no reason your card should be declined, your server will be happy to make a call for you and look into it. Remain calm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fighting Over the Check\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the most irritating things about waiting tables is guests fighting over the check. Suddenly, the food-and-alcohol-induced peace and harmony at the table is shattered by diners grabbing the checks and credit cards out of each others' hands in a seriously misguided effort to pay for the meal and be \"hospitable.\" Or they're just trying to play Alpha Dog. There is a certain ritual to this that must be followed:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of your dining parters grabs the check and insists on paying. You then say, \"Oh, no, I just \u003cem>couldn't\u003c/em> let you do that.\" Then they counter with something like, \"But I'd really like to treat you to dinner tonight. Really, it would make me \u003cem>very\u003c/em> happy to do it!\" You are then supposed to respond with something to the effect of, \"Well... alright, if it will make you happy, but\u003cem> I'm\u003c/em> taking \u003cem>you\u003c/em> out next time.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then you're done.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Do not, I repeat, \u003cstrong>do not\u003c/strong> drag the server into this. At my tables, I have in most cases been spending the previous two hours making sure that everyone in my charge is as comfortable and happy as possible. I am not there to referee. Taking sides is not in my economic interest. If I am approached privately by a member of a dining party who hands me his or her card and insists on paying, I will: a) run the credit card and hand back at the end of the meal, run and ready so that he or she is one step ahead of arguments, or b) if the card-giver is not the clear-cut host, I will hand the card back uncharged. To the host.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In extreme cases, when different people start shoving cards or check presenters in my face (it happens) saying everything but \"Pick me! Pick me!\" I am polite, but firm. And mildly, chidingly sarcastic. I tell the contenders something akin to, \"Oh, you're all just so \u003cem>wonderful\u003c/em> to want to pay for dinner, I wish I could pick \u003cem>all\u003c/em> of you!\" I then take a step back from the table, saying, \"I can't \u003cem>wait\u003c/em> to see who wins!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then I walk away.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":" For most diners, paying one's bill at the finish of a restaurant meal is a simple, uncomplicated process, a no-brainer. Or should be. Sadly, it never fails to amaze me just how many people screw this up.\r\n\r\nThe ideal execution of bill getting-and-paying should be a near-non-event. The only words exchanged should be those of thanks between the payer and the server, and from the recipients of the evening's generosity to one giving it.\r\n\r\nThis should be obvious to most of you out there. Hopefully. \r\n\r\n\u003cstrong>Here are a few handy tips on how to pay a restaurant bill with grace.\u003c/strong>","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1520897284,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":22,"wordCount":1150},"headData":{"title":"Check, Please: How to Pay without looking like a fool or making everyone uncomfortable. | KQED","description":" For most diners, paying one's bill at the finish of a restaurant meal is a simple, uncomplicated process, a no-brainer. Or should be. Sadly, it never fails to amaze me just how many people screw this up.\r\n\r\nThe ideal execution of bill getting-and-paying should be a near-non-event. The only words exchanged should be those of thanks between the payer and the server, and from the recipients of the evening's generosity to one giving it.\r\n\r\nThis should be obvious to most of you out there. Hopefully. \r\n\r\nHere are a few handy tips on how to pay a restaurant bill with grace.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Check, Please: How to Pay without looking like a fool or making everyone uncomfortable.","datePublished":"2009-05-22T16:04:39.000Z","dateModified":"2018-03-12T23:28:04.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"3920 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=3920","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/05/22/check-please-how-to-pay-without-looking-like-a-fool-or-making-everyone-uncomfortable/","disqusTitle":"Check, Please: How to Pay without looking like a fool or making everyone uncomfortable.","path":"/bayareabites/3920/check-please-how-to-pay-without-looking-like-a-fool-or-making-everyone-uncomfortable","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>For most diners, paying one's bill at the finish of a restaurant meal is a simple, uncomplicated process, a no-brainer. Or should be. It never fails to amaze me how many people screw this up.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The ideal execution of bill getting-and-paying should be a near-non-event. The only words exchanged should be those of thanks between the payer and the server, and from the recipients of the evening's generosity to one giving it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This should be obvious to most of you out there. Hopefully. Sadly, it isn't to everyone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Here are a few handy tips on how to pay a restaurant bill with grace:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. In a fine dining environment, when a server delivers the bill to a table, he or she will either place it nearest the host or hand it directly to him/her if the host reaches out for it, or place the bill in the center of the table if the host is not clearly certain (for example, if more than one person orders wine or food for the table as a whole). Typically, we assume that the person paying is the one who asks for the check. If that happens to be you, please proceed to step 2.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. When you are ready to make payment, place your credit card, cash, cowrie shells, or whatever method of payment is accepted inside the bill folder with just enough spilling out to indicate that you are ready to make payment. This is important. It is most likely (and hoped for) that your server will not be staring at you as you rifle through your wallet. When you have accomplished this feat, place the bill folder at the edge of the table next to you or, if you are seated in a booth, the end of the table nearest the server's approach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I find it surprising how many people do not understand this small-but-important ritual. The folder could be stuffed with cash, but if it looks as though it has been both untouched and unmoved, it's not going anywhere. Servers are often expected to read the minds of guests, but I think they deserve a little help on this one. Please, make it obvious that you are ready to give payment.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. When the server hands you back your bill, sign it at your leisure, but when you are finished, please place it back on the edge of the table. Your server may then take it away. He (in most cases) is not taking it away out of greed, but rather to take care of the paperwork, especially if you have paid by credit card. Your bill must be closed with the proper paperwork. \u003cstrong>Read: the restaurant's copy of the credit card receipt.\u003c/strong> If, in your wine-soaked joy of the evening, you have accidentally pocketed the receipt (and we've all done it at least once, waiters included), the server might gently ask you for it as you leave. You might expect your server to guess what sort of wine you might like with your pork, but do you really expect him or her to guess the amount of gratuity you've left? I didn't think so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Isn't that easy? Yes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now for a couple of other hints.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You've been Declined\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If your credit card is declined, it is not necessarily your fault (credit card companies sometimes put a hold on cards on which an unusual amount of spending has occurred at any given time, etc.), but it definitely is not your server's. As a waiter, this can be remarkably painful. I worry that I am embarrassing one of my guests-- especially one of my guests who happens to be leaving me a tip. Any server worth his salt will just treat it (outwardly) that it's no big deal and, rather than say, \"I'm sorry, your card's been declined,\" will say something to the effect of, \"Excuse me, do you have another card? This one doesn't seem to be working.\" Unless I'm handed one of those black titanium American Express cards. Then I always give a little frown and tell them it's declined. The response is invariably one of, \"Uh huh. Sure it is.\" And then I go away and giggle. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Essentially, if you are planning on taking people out to dinner, have a back up payment method. If you see no reason your card should be declined, your server will be happy to make a call for you and look into it. Remain calm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Fighting Over the Check\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the most irritating things about waiting tables is guests fighting over the check. Suddenly, the food-and-alcohol-induced peace and harmony at the table is shattered by diners grabbing the checks and credit cards out of each others' hands in a seriously misguided effort to pay for the meal and be \"hospitable.\" Or they're just trying to play Alpha Dog. There is a certain ritual to this that must be followed:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of your dining parters grabs the check and insists on paying. You then say, \"Oh, no, I just \u003cem>couldn't\u003c/em> let you do that.\" Then they counter with something like, \"But I'd really like to treat you to dinner tonight. Really, it would make me \u003cem>very\u003c/em> happy to do it!\" You are then supposed to respond with something to the effect of, \"Well... alright, if it will make you happy, but\u003cem> I'm\u003c/em> taking \u003cem>you\u003c/em> out next time.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then you're done.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Do not, I repeat, \u003cstrong>do not\u003c/strong> drag the server into this. At my tables, I have in most cases been spending the previous two hours making sure that everyone in my charge is as comfortable and happy as possible. I am not there to referee. Taking sides is not in my economic interest. If I am approached privately by a member of a dining party who hands me his or her card and insists on paying, I will: a) run the credit card and hand back at the end of the meal, run and ready so that he or she is one step ahead of arguments, or b) if the card-giver is not the clear-cut host, I will hand the card back uncharged. To the host.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In extreme cases, when different people start shoving cards or check presenters in my face (it happens) saying everything but \"Pick me! Pick me!\" I am polite, but firm. And mildly, chidingly sarcastic. I tell the contenders something akin to, \"Oh, you're all just so \u003cem>wonderful\u003c/em> to want to pay for dinner, I wish I could pick \u003cem>all\u003c/em> of you!\" I then take a step back from the table, saying, \"I can't \u003cem>wait\u003c/em> to see who wins!\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then I walk away.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/3920/check-please-how-to-pay-without-looking-like-a-fool-or-making-everyone-uncomfortable","authors":["5017"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1146"],"tags":["bayareabites_666","bayareabites_2193","bayareabites_92"],"featImg":"bayareabites_3921","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_118116":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_118116","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"118116","found":true},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"diy-soy-free-tofu-yes-you-can-make-tofu-from-any-bean-youd-like","title":"DIY Soy-Free Tofu: Yes, You Can Make Tofu From Any Bean You’d Like","publishDate":1497300723,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>Unless you spend a lot of time eating Burmese food or reading alternative wellness food blogs, you have likely not heard of any type of tofu other than the traditional soy-based stuff. That’s not necessarily a problem; soy tofu can be quite delicious, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/06/03/diy-tofu-making-homemade-tofu-is-easier-than-you-think/\">especially when you’re making it yourself\u003c/a>. But there are other tofus out there in the universe: Shan tofu, a Burmese preparation, made from chickpea flour; \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/31/hemp-tofu/\">hemp tofu\u003c/a>, which Vi Zahajszky made for this food blog back in 2012; peanut tofu, made in a similar manner to soy tofu; and a world of other tofu-like concoctions made from any bean you can think of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooks have different reasons for making tofu from beans other than soy. Some are concerned about GMOs, others have soy allergies, while still others just like the flavor of a different type of bean. Personally, I’m in the “I want to explore new flavors” camp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this exploration, I’ve learned that you can’t just pull another dried bean out of your pantry and follow soy tofu directions. Soybeans are actually quite unique, and it is their particular protein and fat proportions that allow their milk to be curdled and separated just like cheese. According to some internet sources, peanuts behave similarly to soybeans and, with the help of a couple of extra ingredients, can be treated the same way. (Unfortunately for all of you reading this, I am allergic to peanuts, so I’ll leave you to experiment with them and report back in the comments.) Other beans need an almost entirely different approach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most common recipe for soy-free tofu is chickpea flour-based Shan tofu. Chickpea flour is simply finely ground dried chickpeas, and, thanks to its use in gluten-free baking, it is now fairly easy to find in grocery stores. However, I set out to make this recipe adaptable for any dried bean in your pantry and it is not very easy to find flours made from cannellini or pinto beans. (I’m also assuming that most of you do not own a grain mill with which you could grind your own dried beans into flour.) Instead, I decided to harness the power of starch, along with my bean milks of choice, to make my soy-free tofu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yes, before the definition police come calling, I do know that, traditionally, “tofu” is only made from bean curd. However, there already exists a range of tofu-like products made with other ingredients that are referred to as tofus, so I will do the same. You can make up your own new name if you’d prefer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118121\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_.jpg\" alt=\"First, soak your bean of choice in cool water overnight.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1330\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118121\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-160x111.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-800x554.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-768x532.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-1020x707.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-1180x817.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-960x665.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-240x166.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-375x260.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-520x360.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">First, soak your bean of choice in cool water overnight. \u003ccite>(Kate Williams)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To get started, soak your bean of choice in cool water overnight. I prefer using yellow- or white-colored beans, such as chickpeas or cannellini beans, because they make for a prettier end product. If you prefer black or pinto beans and don’t mind their dark colors, I say go for it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next day, drain and rinse the soaked beans and blend them up with 2 cups of water. Get this mixture as smooth as possible — you’re trying to get all of the protein and starch out of those dried beans. If you’ve been paying attention, this process is almost the same, so far, as \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/06/03/diy-tofu-making-homemade-tofu-is-easier-than-you-think/\">soy tofu\u003c/a>. However, the volume of milk is smaller; this is because we will not be curdling and separating out the milk, giving us a higher yield per given volume of beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118122\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_.jpg\" alt=\"Squeeze out as much milk and starch from the ground bean pulp as possible.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1339\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118122\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-800x558.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-768x536.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-1020x711.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-1180x823.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-960x670.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-240x167.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-375x262.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-520x363.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Squeeze out as much milk and starch from the ground bean pulp as possible. \u003ccite>(Kate Williams)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now strain the milk through a towel-lined strainer into a large bowl. Twist and squeeze the towel to get as much of the milk (and starch) out from the bean pulp as possible. Discard or compost the bean pulp; it is still raw and likely not very tasty!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next, pour the milk into a pot along with a teaspoon of salt. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook the milk for 15 minutes. This cooking process will take away any raw bean flavor and will make the final tofu digestible and delicious. Depending on your bean of choice, you will notice that the milk will have started to thicken by this point. Chickpeas, for example, have quite a bit of starch in them, and their milk will turn to a thick custard on its own. In fact, some recipes say that you can cook chickpea milk to a tofu-like thickness all on its own; unfortunately, I did not have any success with this method.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To get the milk from custard to sliceable tofu, you will need to add more starch. I like to use cornstarch since it is cheap and always on hand in my house. If you prefer not to use cornstarch, other recipes call for tapioca, potato starch or (you may have guessed it) additional chickpea flour. Experiment as you’d like!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118119\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Stir the thickened bean milk until it starts to pull away from the sides of the pot.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118119\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stir the thickened bean milk until it starts to pull away from the sides of the pot. \u003ccite>(Kate Williams)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In order to keep lumps from forming in the cornstarch, you’ll want to make a slurry/paste concoction. Pour out around a cup of the bean milk into a bowl and sift in the starch. Whisk it well, and then add the slurry back into the main pot of milk. Keep stirring until the mixture becomes super thick and pulls away from the sides of the pot. If the milk doesn’t thicken up within a minute, sift more cornstarch into the milk, a tablespoon at a time, until it does. You’ll know it when you see it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, transfer the thickened tofu mixture to a loaf pan and let it cool. The tofu will continue to thicken and set as it reaches room temperature. Once it is cooled, you can flip it out onto a cutting board and cut it into bite-sized pieces. Depending on the bean you’ve used, the tofu will have a slightly different texture. Cannellini tofu is more jelly-like than chickpea tofu, for example, and they’ll all be less firm than traditional soy tofu. If you’d like to cook them, I’d highly recommend using a non-stick skillet and a gentle hand. Or, do as I’ve been doing, and pop a few cubes into your mouth straight from the fridge as a protein-packed afternoon snack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118118\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade cannellini and chickpea tofus.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118118\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Homemade cannellini and chickpea tofus. \u003ccite>(Kate Williams)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Homemade Soy-Free Tofu\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 1 pound\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> Unlike traditional soy tofu, which is made by separating soy milk into curds and whey, “alterna-tofus” are set by cooking down their milk and an additional starch. All beans contain some starch, but this is not enough to fully set the tofu on its own. Because every type of bean has a slightly different starch content, I’ve written this recipe to use a flexible amount of cornstarch. You may need to experiment a bit to find your perfect proportions. In this recipe I prefer to use light-colored beans, such as chickpeas or cannellini beans, instead of brown or black beans, because the final result is simply prettier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>½ cup dried beans, such as chickpeas or cannellini beans\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cups water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>⅓ cup cornstarch, plus more as needed\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>The night before making the tofu, place the dried beans in a large bowl and cover them with at least 2 inches of cold water. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it sit on the counter overnight.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The next day, drain the beans in a colander and rinse with cold water. Transfer the beans to a blender and cover with the water. Blend until very smooth, about 1 minute. You should no longer be able to see any little bits of bean and the mixture should be slightly foamy.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place a strainer over a large bowl or pot. Line the strainer with a thin kitchen towel or a triple layer of cheesecloth. Pour the bean milk slurry into the towel-lined strainer, letting the milk drain through.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring the edges of the towel together to form a sack and twist to squeeze out more of the milk. Try to get out as much of the milk as possible. Compost the bean pulp. (Unlike with soybean tofu, this pulp is still basically raw, so it likely will not taste great.)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pour the strained bean milk into a medium saucepan, add the salt, and place the pot over medium heat. Bring the milk to a low simmer, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Reduce the heat as low as it will go. Ladle out about a cup of the milk out into a large bowl. Sift the cornstarch over the milk in the bowl and whisk it in until smooth. Pour the cornstarch-milk mixture into the pot with the remaining milk and whisk until smooth. Continue to cook, whisking constantly, until the bean mixture turns extremely thick and pulls away from the sides of the pot, 30 seconds to 1 minute. If the mixture does not thicken up, sift in additional cornstarch, 1 tablespoon at a time, until it does.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Transfer the tofu mixture to a loaf pan measuring about 9 by 5 inches (smaller loaf pans will work as well; your tofu will be thicker) and smooth the top as best you can. Let the tofu cool completely.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Flip the cooled tofu out onto a cutting board (it should slide right out) and cut into squares. You can store the tofu for up to 1 week before eating.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Tofu doesn't have to be made with soybeans. Kate Williams will show you how to whip up a batch with any dried bean you've got in your pantry.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1508268441,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":17,"wordCount":1659},"headData":{"title":"DIY Soy-Free Tofu: Yes, You Can Make Tofu From Any Bean You’d Like | KQED","description":"Tofu doesn't have to be made with soybeans. Kate Williams will show you how to whip up a batch with any dried bean you've got in your pantry.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"DIY Soy-Free Tofu: Yes, You Can Make Tofu From Any Bean You’d Like","datePublished":"2017-06-12T20:52:03.000Z","dateModified":"2017-10-17T19:27:21.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"118116 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=118116","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/06/12/diy-soy-free-tofu-yes-you-can-make-tofu-from-any-bean-youd-like/","disqusTitle":"DIY Soy-Free Tofu: Yes, You Can Make Tofu From Any Bean You’d Like","source":"DIY Recipes","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/diy-and-urban-homesteading/","path":"/bayareabites/118116/diy-soy-free-tofu-yes-you-can-make-tofu-from-any-bean-youd-like","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Unless you spend a lot of time eating Burmese food or reading alternative wellness food blogs, you have likely not heard of any type of tofu other than the traditional soy-based stuff. That’s not necessarily a problem; soy tofu can be quite delicious, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/06/03/diy-tofu-making-homemade-tofu-is-easier-than-you-think/\">especially when you’re making it yourself\u003c/a>. But there are other tofus out there in the universe: Shan tofu, a Burmese preparation, made from chickpea flour; \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/01/31/hemp-tofu/\">hemp tofu\u003c/a>, which Vi Zahajszky made for this food blog back in 2012; peanut tofu, made in a similar manner to soy tofu; and a world of other tofu-like concoctions made from any bean you can think of.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooks have different reasons for making tofu from beans other than soy. Some are concerned about GMOs, others have soy allergies, while still others just like the flavor of a different type of bean. Personally, I’m in the “I want to explore new flavors” camp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In this exploration, I’ve learned that you can’t just pull another dried bean out of your pantry and follow soy tofu directions. Soybeans are actually quite unique, and it is their particular protein and fat proportions that allow their milk to be curdled and separated just like cheese. According to some internet sources, peanuts behave similarly to soybeans and, with the help of a couple of extra ingredients, can be treated the same way. (Unfortunately for all of you reading this, I am allergic to peanuts, so I’ll leave you to experiment with them and report back in the comments.) Other beans need an almost entirely different approach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most common recipe for soy-free tofu is chickpea flour-based Shan tofu. Chickpea flour is simply finely ground dried chickpeas, and, thanks to its use in gluten-free baking, it is now fairly easy to find in grocery stores. However, I set out to make this recipe adaptable for any dried bean in your pantry and it is not very easy to find flours made from cannellini or pinto beans. (I’m also assuming that most of you do not own a grain mill with which you could grind your own dried beans into flour.) Instead, I decided to harness the power of starch, along with my bean milks of choice, to make my soy-free tofu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yes, before the definition police come calling, I do know that, traditionally, “tofu” is only made from bean curd. However, there already exists a range of tofu-like products made with other ingredients that are referred to as tofus, so I will do the same. You can make up your own new name if you’d prefer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118121\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_.jpg\" alt=\"First, soak your bean of choice in cool water overnight.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1330\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118121\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-160x111.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-800x554.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-768x532.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-1020x707.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-1180x817.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-960x665.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-240x166.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-375x260.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/soaked-white-beans_-520x360.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">First, soak your bean of choice in cool water overnight. \u003ccite>(Kate Williams)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To get started, soak your bean of choice in cool water overnight. I prefer using yellow- or white-colored beans, such as chickpeas or cannellini beans, because they make for a prettier end product. If you prefer black or pinto beans and don’t mind their dark colors, I say go for it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next day, drain and rinse the soaked beans and blend them up with 2 cups of water. Get this mixture as smooth as possible — you’re trying to get all of the protein and starch out of those dried beans. If you’ve been paying attention, this process is almost the same, so far, as \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/06/03/diy-tofu-making-homemade-tofu-is-easier-than-you-think/\">soy tofu\u003c/a>. However, the volume of milk is smaller; this is because we will not be curdling and separating out the milk, giving us a higher yield per given volume of beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118122\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_.jpg\" alt=\"Squeeze out as much milk and starch from the ground bean pulp as possible.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1339\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118122\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-160x112.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-800x558.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-768x536.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-1020x711.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-1180x823.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-960x670.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-240x167.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-375x262.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/squeezing-bean-milk_-520x363.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Squeeze out as much milk and starch from the ground bean pulp as possible. \u003ccite>(Kate Williams)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Now strain the milk through a towel-lined strainer into a large bowl. Twist and squeeze the towel to get as much of the milk (and starch) out from the bean pulp as possible. Discard or compost the bean pulp; it is still raw and likely not very tasty!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next, pour the milk into a pot along with a teaspoon of salt. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook the milk for 15 minutes. This cooking process will take away any raw bean flavor and will make the final tofu digestible and delicious. Depending on your bean of choice, you will notice that the milk will have started to thicken by this point. Chickpeas, for example, have quite a bit of starch in them, and their milk will turn to a thick custard on its own. In fact, some recipes say that you can cook chickpea milk to a tofu-like thickness all on its own; unfortunately, I did not have any success with this method.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To get the milk from custard to sliceable tofu, you will need to add more starch. I like to use cornstarch since it is cheap and always on hand in my house. If you prefer not to use cornstarch, other recipes call for tapioca, potato starch or (you may have guessed it) additional chickpea flour. Experiment as you’d like!\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118119\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Stir the thickened bean milk until it starts to pull away from the sides of the pot.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118119\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/chickpea-tofu-pulling-from-sides-of-pan-3-NEW-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stir the thickened bean milk until it starts to pull away from the sides of the pot. \u003ccite>(Kate Williams)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In order to keep lumps from forming in the cornstarch, you’ll want to make a slurry/paste concoction. Pour out around a cup of the bean milk into a bowl and sift in the starch. Whisk it well, and then add the slurry back into the main pot of milk. Keep stirring until the mixture becomes super thick and pulls away from the sides of the pot. If the milk doesn’t thicken up within a minute, sift more cornstarch into the milk, a tablespoon at a time, until it does. You’ll know it when you see it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, transfer the thickened tofu mixture to a loaf pan and let it cool. The tofu will continue to thicken and set as it reaches room temperature. Once it is cooled, you can flip it out onto a cutting board and cut it into bite-sized pieces. Depending on the bean you’ve used, the tofu will have a slightly different texture. Cannellini tofu is more jelly-like than chickpea tofu, for example, and they’ll all be less firm than traditional soy tofu. If you’d like to cook them, I’d highly recommend using a non-stick skillet and a gentle hand. Or, do as I’ve been doing, and pop a few cubes into your mouth straight from the fridge as a protein-packed afternoon snack.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_118118\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade cannellini and chickpea tofus.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-118118\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/06/both-tofus-6-NEW-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Homemade cannellini and chickpea tofus. \u003ccite>(Kate Williams)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Homemade Soy-Free Tofu\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 1 pound\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Note:\u003c/strong> Unlike traditional soy tofu, which is made by separating soy milk into curds and whey, “alterna-tofus” are set by cooking down their milk and an additional starch. All beans contain some starch, but this is not enough to fully set the tofu on its own. Because every type of bean has a slightly different starch content, I’ve written this recipe to use a flexible amount of cornstarch. You may need to experiment a bit to find your perfect proportions. In this recipe I prefer to use light-colored beans, such as chickpeas or cannellini beans, instead of brown or black beans, because the final result is simply prettier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>½ cup dried beans, such as chickpeas or cannellini beans\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cups water\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>⅓ cup cornstarch, plus more as needed\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>The night before making the tofu, place the dried beans in a large bowl and cover them with at least 2 inches of cold water. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it sit on the counter overnight.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The next day, drain the beans in a colander and rinse with cold water. Transfer the beans to a blender and cover with the water. Blend until very smooth, about 1 minute. You should no longer be able to see any little bits of bean and the mixture should be slightly foamy.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place a strainer over a large bowl or pot. Line the strainer with a thin kitchen towel or a triple layer of cheesecloth. Pour the bean milk slurry into the towel-lined strainer, letting the milk drain through.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bring the edges of the towel together to form a sack and twist to squeeze out more of the milk. Try to get out as much of the milk as possible. Compost the bean pulp. (Unlike with soybean tofu, this pulp is still basically raw, so it likely will not taste great.)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Pour the strained bean milk into a medium saucepan, add the salt, and place the pot over medium heat. Bring the milk to a low simmer, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Reduce the heat as low as it will go. Ladle out about a cup of the milk out into a large bowl. Sift the cornstarch over the milk in the bowl and whisk it in until smooth. Pour the cornstarch-milk mixture into the pot with the remaining milk and whisk until smooth. Continue to cook, whisking constantly, until the bean mixture turns extremely thick and pulls away from the sides of the pot, 30 seconds to 1 minute. If the mixture does not thicken up, sift in additional cornstarch, 1 tablespoon at a time, until it does.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Transfer the tofu mixture to a loaf pan measuring about 9 by 5 inches (smaller loaf pans will work as well; your tofu will be thicker) and smooth the top as best you can. Let the tofu cool completely.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Flip the cooled tofu out onto a cutting board (it should slide right out) and cut into squares. You can store the tofu for up to 1 week before eating.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/118116/diy-soy-free-tofu-yes-you-can-make-tofu-from-any-bean-youd-like","authors":["5485"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_2638","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_12869","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_15880","bayareabites_11123","bayareabites_13462","bayareabites_15879","bayareabites_3585"],"featImg":"bayareabites_118120","label":"source_bayareabites_118116"},"bayareabites_99587":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_99587","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"99587","found":true},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"bay-area-bites-guide-to-8-places-to-buy-fresh-fish","title":"Bay Area Bites Guide to 8 Great Places to Buy Fresh Fish","publishDate":1440532388,"format":"image","headTitle":"Our Top 20 Guides From 2015 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>This story was originally published on Aug. 25, 2015. It was updated on January 3, 2018.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area is surrounded by water and, at times, that can make it easy to find great local seafood. But often it's not so simple. After years of fishing with little regard for sustainable practices or the long-term health of the ocean, people have become more focused recently on eating fish that are both good for them and caught in a manner that is good for the ecosystem. The dominant standard in seafood sustainability has become the \u003ca href=\"http://www.seafoodwatch.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch\u003c/a>, which outlines industry standards and good practices. But there are a number of other definitions of sustainability, and different kinds of fishing techniques -- many of which can be difficult to understand the details of unless you grew up on a boat. In addition, it's common for people to look for local fish freshly caught, though in the winter (or depending on the weather) it can be harder to find local seafood. On top of that, most of us don't want to spend a fortune either.\u003cbr>\n[contextly_sidebar id=\"Dd0CXJtvNKwCIGDncDXokptHrQCz3uSX\"]\u003cbr>\nOh, and to make things even more complicated, there's growing concern about fish being mislabeled or sold under the wrong name. And \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/07/30/do-fish-names-encourage-fishy-business/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">FDA rules allow multiple species of fish to be sold under a single name\u003c/a>, which can make everything even more confusing for the consumer. It's no wonder community-supported fisheries, like \u003ca href=\"http://www.realgoodfish.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Real Good Fish\u003c/a>, where you sign up for a subscription service and simply have fresh, local fish delivered to door are becoming more popular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you'd like to pick your fish yourself, there's still more than a few options. While there used to be more fishermen selling their wares directly on the docks, now there are just a few places left where you can buy straight off the boat. If you're looking for that experience, try Pillar Point Harbor down in Half Moon Bay or Moss Landing, where \u003ca href=\"http://www.philsfishmarket.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Phil's Fish Market\u003c/a> is the popular go-to. Here in the Bay Area, there are a number of fish markets, big and small. Try these eight, and let us know in the comments if we missed your favorite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"99648,99651,99650,99649\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>H&H stands for Heidi and Hans, the couple that runs \u003cstrong>H&H Fresh Fish Co.\u003c/strong> out of Santa Cruz. All the fish that Hans doesn't catch himself, he buys on the dock in Santa Cruz from about 100 small-scale fishermen, who are primarily using hook and line or rod methods. That catch is then cut into fillets and sold either wholesale or at farmers markets around the Bay Area. While many of the market spots are in the South Bay or closer to Santa Cruz, H&H also sells at a half-dozen markets in San Francisco and the East Bay. You can also sign up for their CSA-style subscription service that delivers fish once or twice every week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fish is primarily local, though the buying does extend to Hawaii, Alaska, and even Baja California in the winter months — as long as H&H can verify how it's being caught, where, and when. The duo will also cater an oyster bar for events.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.hhfreshfish.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>H&H Fresh Fish Co.\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nH&H sells at farmers markets throughout the Bay Area, as well as through a weekly delivery program and a soon-to-open retail store in Santa Cruz; check \u003ca href=\"http://www.hhfreshfish.com/markets\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">their market schedule\u003c/a> for complete information\u003cbr>\nPh: (831) 462-3474\u003cbr>\nHours: Check \u003ca href=\"http://www.hhfreshfish.com/markets\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">the market schedule\u003c/a> for all locations and times\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/hhfreshfishco\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">H&H Fresh Fish Co.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hhfreshfishco/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">HHFreshFishCo\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"99633,99635,99632,99634,99637,99638\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hudson Fishing Co.\u003c/strong> is run by Yvette and Mike Hudson, who do most of the fishing themselves in between Monterey and Bodega Bay. The duo specialize in Wild King Salmon, California Halibut, Albacore Tuna, and Dungeness Crabs. They also have some prawns available. Everything they catch is either using a hook and line, or traps -- not nets. It's all sold at four weekly farmers markets: two in Berkeley, one in El Cerrito, and one in Kensington. Check \u003ca href=\"http://hudsonfish.com/markets.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">their market locations page\u003c/a> for more details.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[contextly_sidebar id=\"4tdaojmBKecxjDG0kepyUD1vR6bYdzRl\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They rarely sell whole fish available at the markets, because everything is cut and filleted before sold. The fish from Hudson are known for freshness and taste. And the two owners are also highly involved in salmon fishing associations and advocating for seafood environmental reform.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://hudsonfish.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>Hudson Fish Co.\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHudson sells at farmers markets in Berkeley, El Cerrito, and Kensington; check \u003ca href=\"http://hudsonfish.com/markets.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">their location page\u003c/a> for directions\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 528-8686\u003cbr>\nHours: Check \u003ca href=\"http://hudsonfish.com/markets.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">the market schedule\u003c/a> for all locations and times\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"99629,99628,99622,99626,99624,99627,99621,99625,99620\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Run by Joey Pucci (J.P.), \u003cstrong>J.P. Seafood\u003c/strong> is a small operation that sits inside Dan's Produce near the main commercial stretch in Alameda. Pucci, himself, buys almost all the day's fish down at the docks in San Francisco and then slices it up and puts it on ice to sell. The store is very conscientious about quality control and making sure everything stays at just the right temperature. Because of the focus on freshness, there is rarely very much quantity in the store -- just enough for the day. That means it can be a good idea just to ask what's best in stock, though you can also call ahead to place bigger orders. It's not cheap, but it's not too expensive either.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/jp-seafood-co-alameda-2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>JP Seafood Co.\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2300 Central Ave., Alameda [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/8xuZVO\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 865-3474\u003cbr>\nHours: Tues-Fri, 10am-6:30pm; Sat-Sun, 9am-5:30pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/JP-Seafood-Co/155247561202540\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">JP Seafood Co\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"99611,99616,99612,99613,99614,99618,99615,99617,99619\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Monterey Fish Market\u003c/strong> was started in 1978 by Paul Johnson, a chef at a high-end restaurant in Berkeley. He started out buying directly from lots of small hook and line fishermen. Today, the market operates as a wholesaler out of San Francisco and as a retail store in North Berkeley — not connected to the Monterey Market grocery store down the street. Monterey Fish Market still buys directly from fishermen, some of whom even have keys to the store and leave their fresh catches in the fridges early in the morning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[contextly_sidebar id=\"j5BlKJ2rEB8eQ9VkJNUqFP3h6mKOCoIl\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The store follows most of the Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch guidelines, but has also developed its own standards. For example, Atlantic Cod is typically considered unsustainable because of how it's traditionally caught, but the fishermen Monterey Fish Market deals with are small hook and line boats out of Cape Cod. The company has extensive information about its \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereyfish.com/pages/nav/sustainability.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">sustainability practices\u003c/a> and the different kinds of fishing techniques used. In fact, it designates how the fish was caught on the labels in the store — for example, Coho Salmon steaks are priced based on how they were caught.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This fish isn't super cheap, but it is fresh and high-quality. Among its many clients, the wholesale arm of the fish market actually sells to the Monterey Bay Aquarium's restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.montereyfish.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>Monterey Fish Market\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1582 Hopkins St., Berkeley [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/yLZQHA\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 525-5600\u003cbr>\nHours: Tues-Sat, 10am-6pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Monterey-Fish-Market-Inc/367040686685296?fref=ts\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Monterey Fish Market, Inc.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Montereyfishmkt\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">@MontereyFishMkt\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://instagram.com/montereyfishmarket/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">MontereyFishMarket\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"99588,99589,99590,99592,99591,99593,99594,99595\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since 1963, \u003cstrong>The Tokyo Fish Market\u003c/strong> in Berkeley has been serving up Asian grocery items with a focus on fresh fish. In 2005, the store expanded to its current 5,000-square-foot building, with the original shop becoming a gift store. The emphasis is still on the fish, though, which comes from around the world through about ten different distributors. Fish manager, Lee Nakamura, said that he depends on the fishermen, whom he knows, to tell him where the fish is coming from, how it's being caught, and if it's good quality. While he doesn't strictly follow Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch standards — for example, he has no problem with farmed fish as long as it's done well — he does try to ensure that the fish is sustainable and fresh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Along with all the standard fish varieties, the market also has some slightly more exotic seafood and a wide range of shellfish, and the fish is all reasonably priced.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tokyofish.net/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>Tokyo Fish Market\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1220 San Pablo Ave., Berkeley [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/KxK9pk\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 524-7243\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" size=\"full\" link=\"none\" ids=\"99598,99599,99600,99602,99601,99603,99604,99605,99606,99607,99608\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are a lot of small, family-run fish markets throughout San Francisco. What separates \u003cstrong>Sun Fat Seafood\u003c/strong> is its variety of cheap, fresh seafood. Nondescript on the outside, Sun Fat's has all kinds of seafood on the inside. It's best known for its affordable oysters, clams, and scallops. The knowledgeable staff will cut the heads off the whole fish and de-scale them for you, or you can buy already prepared fillets. Despite the small size of the store, the variety is endless. You can even buy frog legs or baby octopus. If you want hand-picked, locally-sourced, all-sustainable seafood, then this isn't necessarily the place for you. But it is as fresh as fish comes and isn't going to break the bank.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/sun-fat-seafood-company-san-francisco\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>Sun Fat Seafood Co.\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2687 Mission St., San Francisco [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/L9bYcC\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 282-9339\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm; Sun, 9am-5pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"99652,99653,99654,99657,99656,99658,99655,99659\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Right in the heart of Fisherman's Wharf, it's easy to dismiss \u003cstrong>Alioto-Lazio Fish Company\u003c/strong> as a tourist trap. But it's a long-standing fishseller, and one of the last local family-owned fish markets in the area. While they're best known for their live crabs — which you can pick out of the tank (just as long as you don't stick your hand in the water) — they also sell local seafood, shrimp, scallops, and lobster tails. You can either come into the store — if you can find parking — or have it shipped overnight to your house. The prices aren't terrible, and they also sell a variety of knick-knacks, condiments, and odds-and-ends. And try one of their famous crab shots for $1.50.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://crabonline.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>Alioto-Lazio Fish Co.\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n440 Jefferson St., San Francisco [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/IeX14d\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 673-5868\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Fri, 6am-2pm, Sat, 7am-noon\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/AliotoLazioFishCo\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Alioto Lazio Fish Co\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/aliotolaziofish\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">@AliotoLazioFish\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"none\" size=\"full\" ids=\"99665,99664,99663,99661,99662\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fisherman's Wharf, obviously, originally got its name from the fishermen who sold their wares on the piers. There aren't as many sellers left, but on Pier 45 there are a number of wholesale seafood distributors and \u003cstrong>ABS Seafood\u003c/strong> is one of the best among them. In fact, ABS is so prolific that it even sells to one of the other spots on our list, the Tokyo Fish Market. While it is primarily a wholesaler and distributor, with no retail location, you can still call in orders directly and pick them up from the warehouse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[contextly_sidebar id=\"rt651K0Lihj5UifRiWymdP40wLXaWPpC\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because it's such a large distributor, ABS carries nearly every kind of seafood or fish you could possibly want. Though it's not all local or wild, ABS did start taking steps a few years ago to eliminate some of the fish known for being unsustainable from its inventory. If you need seafood in bulk, just call ABS.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.absseafood.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>ABS Seafood\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n45 Pier Shed D-1, San Francisco [\u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/06N3lc\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 401-0258\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Fri, 6am-noon\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ABSseafood\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">ABS Seafood\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The Bay Area is surrounded by water, making it a great place to find fresh local fish. Try these spots.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1546553321,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":true,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":38,"wordCount":2003},"headData":{"title":"Bay Area Bites Guide to 8 Great Places to Buy Fresh Fish | KQED","description":"The Bay Area is surrounded by water, making it a great place to find fresh local fish. Try these spots.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Bay Area Bites Guide to 8 Great Places to Buy Fresh Fish","datePublished":"2015-08-25T19:53:08.000Z","dateModified":"2019-01-03T22:08:41.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"99587 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=99587","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/08/25/bay-area-bites-guide-to-8-places-to-buy-fresh-fish/","disqusTitle":"Bay Area Bites Guide to 8 Great Places to Buy Fresh Fish","source":"Guide","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/guides-2/","path":"/bayareabites/99587/bay-area-bites-guide-to-8-places-to-buy-fresh-fish","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>This story was originally published on Aug. 25, 2015. It was updated on January 3, 2018.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Bay Area is surrounded by water and, at times, that can make it easy to find great local seafood. But often it's not so simple. After years of fishing with little regard for sustainable practices or the long-term health of the ocean, people have become more focused recently on eating fish that are both good for them and caught in a manner that is good for the ecosystem. The dominant standard in seafood sustainability has become the \u003ca href=\"http://www.seafoodwatch.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch\u003c/a>, which outlines industry standards and good practices. But there are a number of other definitions of sustainability, and different kinds of fishing techniques -- many of which can be difficult to understand the details of unless you grew up on a boat. In addition, it's common for people to look for local fish freshly caught, though in the winter (or depending on the weather) it can be harder to find local seafood. On top of that, most of us don't want to spend a fortune either.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cbr>\nOh, and to make things even more complicated, there's growing concern about fish being mislabeled or sold under the wrong name. And \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/07/30/do-fish-names-encourage-fishy-business/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">FDA rules allow multiple species of fish to be sold under a single name\u003c/a>, which can make everything even more confusing for the consumer. It's no wonder community-supported fisheries, like \u003ca href=\"http://www.realgoodfish.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Real Good Fish\u003c/a>, where you sign up for a subscription service and simply have fresh, local fish delivered to door are becoming more popular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you'd like to pick your fish yourself, there's still more than a few options. While there used to be more fishermen selling their wares directly on the docks, now there are just a few places left where you can buy straight off the boat. If you're looking for that experience, try Pillar Point Harbor down in Half Moon Bay or Moss Landing, where \u003ca href=\"http://www.philsfishmarket.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Phil's Fish Market\u003c/a> is the popular go-to. Here in the Bay Area, there are a number of fish markets, big and small. Try these eight, and let us know in the comments if we missed your favorite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","link":"none","size":"full","ids":"99648,99651,99650,99649","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>H&H stands for Heidi and Hans, the couple that runs \u003cstrong>H&H Fresh Fish Co.\u003c/strong> out of Santa Cruz. All the fish that Hans doesn't catch himself, he buys on the dock in Santa Cruz from about 100 small-scale fishermen, who are primarily using hook and line or rod methods. That catch is then cut into fillets and sold either wholesale or at farmers markets around the Bay Area. While many of the market spots are in the South Bay or closer to Santa Cruz, H&H also sells at a half-dozen markets in San Francisco and the East Bay. You can also sign up for their CSA-style subscription service that delivers fish once or twice every week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fish is primarily local, though the buying does extend to Hawaii, Alaska, and even Baja California in the winter months — as long as H&H can verify how it's being caught, where, and when. The duo will also cater an oyster bar for events.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.hhfreshfish.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>H&H Fresh Fish Co.\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nH&H sells at farmers markets throughout the Bay Area, as well as through a weekly delivery program and a soon-to-open retail store in Santa Cruz; check \u003ca href=\"http://www.hhfreshfish.com/markets\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">their market schedule\u003c/a> for complete information\u003cbr>\nPh: (831) 462-3474\u003cbr>\nHours: Check \u003ca href=\"http://www.hhfreshfish.com/markets\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">the market schedule\u003c/a> for all locations and times\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/hhfreshfishco\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">H&H Fresh Fish Co.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hhfreshfishco/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">HHFreshFishCo\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","link":"none","size":"full","ids":"99633,99635,99632,99634,99637,99638","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hudson Fishing Co.\u003c/strong> is run by Yvette and Mike Hudson, who do most of the fishing themselves in between Monterey and Bodega Bay. The duo specialize in Wild King Salmon, California Halibut, Albacore Tuna, and Dungeness Crabs. They also have some prawns available. Everything they catch is either using a hook and line, or traps -- not nets. It's all sold at four weekly farmers markets: two in Berkeley, one in El Cerrito, and one in Kensington. Check \u003ca href=\"http://hudsonfish.com/markets.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">their market locations page\u003c/a> for more details.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They rarely sell whole fish available at the markets, because everything is cut and filleted before sold. The fish from Hudson are known for freshness and taste. And the two owners are also highly involved in salmon fishing associations and advocating for seafood environmental reform.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://hudsonfish.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>Hudson Fish Co.\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nHudson sells at farmers markets in Berkeley, El Cerrito, and Kensington; check \u003ca href=\"http://hudsonfish.com/markets.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">their location page\u003c/a> for directions\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 528-8686\u003cbr>\nHours: Check \u003ca href=\"http://hudsonfish.com/markets.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">the market schedule\u003c/a> for all locations and times\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","link":"none","size":"full","ids":"99629,99628,99622,99626,99624,99627,99621,99625,99620","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Run by Joey Pucci (J.P.), \u003cstrong>J.P. Seafood\u003c/strong> is a small operation that sits inside Dan's Produce near the main commercial stretch in Alameda. Pucci, himself, buys almost all the day's fish down at the docks in San Francisco and then slices it up and puts it on ice to sell. The store is very conscientious about quality control and making sure everything stays at just the right temperature. Because of the focus on freshness, there is rarely very much quantity in the store -- just enough for the day. That means it can be a good idea just to ask what's best in stock, though you can also call ahead to place bigger orders. It's not cheap, but it's not too expensive either.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/jp-seafood-co-alameda-2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>JP Seafood Co.\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2300 Central Ave., Alameda [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/8xuZVO\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 865-3474\u003cbr>\nHours: Tues-Fri, 10am-6:30pm; Sat-Sun, 9am-5:30pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/JP-Seafood-Co/155247561202540\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">JP Seafood Co\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","link":"none","size":"full","ids":"99611,99616,99612,99613,99614,99618,99615,99617,99619","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Monterey Fish Market\u003c/strong> was started in 1978 by Paul Johnson, a chef at a high-end restaurant in Berkeley. He started out buying directly from lots of small hook and line fishermen. Today, the market operates as a wholesaler out of San Francisco and as a retail store in North Berkeley — not connected to the Monterey Market grocery store down the street. Monterey Fish Market still buys directly from fishermen, some of whom even have keys to the store and leave their fresh catches in the fridges early in the morning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The store follows most of the Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch guidelines, but has also developed its own standards. For example, Atlantic Cod is typically considered unsustainable because of how it's traditionally caught, but the fishermen Monterey Fish Market deals with are small hook and line boats out of Cape Cod. The company has extensive information about its \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereyfish.com/pages/nav/sustainability.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">sustainability practices\u003c/a> and the different kinds of fishing techniques used. In fact, it designates how the fish was caught on the labels in the store — for example, Coho Salmon steaks are priced based on how they were caught.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This fish isn't super cheap, but it is fresh and high-quality. Among its many clients, the wholesale arm of the fish market actually sells to the Monterey Bay Aquarium's restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.montereyfish.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>Monterey Fish Market\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1582 Hopkins St., Berkeley [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/yLZQHA\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 525-5600\u003cbr>\nHours: Tues-Sat, 10am-6pm\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/Monterey-Fish-Market-Inc/367040686685296?fref=ts\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Monterey Fish Market, Inc.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Montereyfishmkt\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">@MontereyFishMkt\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nInstagram: \u003ca href=\"https://instagram.com/montereyfishmarket/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">MontereyFishMarket\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","link":"none","size":"full","ids":"99588,99589,99590,99592,99591,99593,99594,99595","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since 1963, \u003cstrong>The Tokyo Fish Market\u003c/strong> in Berkeley has been serving up Asian grocery items with a focus on fresh fish. In 2005, the store expanded to its current 5,000-square-foot building, with the original shop becoming a gift store. The emphasis is still on the fish, though, which comes from around the world through about ten different distributors. Fish manager, Lee Nakamura, said that he depends on the fishermen, whom he knows, to tell him where the fish is coming from, how it's being caught, and if it's good quality. While he doesn't strictly follow Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch standards — for example, he has no problem with farmed fish as long as it's done well — he does try to ensure that the fish is sustainable and fresh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Along with all the standard fish varieties, the market also has some slightly more exotic seafood and a wide range of shellfish, and the fish is all reasonably priced.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.tokyofish.net/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>Tokyo Fish Market\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n1220 San Pablo Ave., Berkeley [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/KxK9pk\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (510) 524-7243\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","size":"full","link":"none","ids":"99598,99599,99600,99602,99601,99603,99604,99605,99606,99607,99608","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are a lot of small, family-run fish markets throughout San Francisco. What separates \u003cstrong>Sun Fat Seafood\u003c/strong> is its variety of cheap, fresh seafood. Nondescript on the outside, Sun Fat's has all kinds of seafood on the inside. It's best known for its affordable oysters, clams, and scallops. The knowledgeable staff will cut the heads off the whole fish and de-scale them for you, or you can buy already prepared fillets. Despite the small size of the store, the variety is endless. You can even buy frog legs or baby octopus. If you want hand-picked, locally-sourced, all-sustainable seafood, then this isn't necessarily the place for you. But it is as fresh as fish comes and isn't going to break the bank.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/sun-fat-seafood-company-san-francisco\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>Sun Fat Seafood Co.\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n2687 Mission St., San Francisco [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/L9bYcC\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 282-9339\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm; Sun, 9am-5pm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","link":"none","size":"full","ids":"99652,99653,99654,99657,99656,99658,99655,99659","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Right in the heart of Fisherman's Wharf, it's easy to dismiss \u003cstrong>Alioto-Lazio Fish Company\u003c/strong> as a tourist trap. But it's a long-standing fishseller, and one of the last local family-owned fish markets in the area. While they're best known for their live crabs — which you can pick out of the tank (just as long as you don't stick your hand in the water) — they also sell local seafood, shrimp, scallops, and lobster tails. You can either come into the store — if you can find parking — or have it shipped overnight to your house. The prices aren't terrible, and they also sell a variety of knick-knacks, condiments, and odds-and-ends. And try one of their famous crab shots for $1.50.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://crabonline.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>Alioto-Lazio Fish Co.\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n440 Jefferson St., San Francisco [\u003ca href=\"https://goo.gl/IeX14d\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 673-5868\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Fri, 6am-2pm, Sat, 7am-noon\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/AliotoLazioFishCo\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Alioto Lazio Fish Co\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nTwitter: \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/aliotolaziofish\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">@AliotoLazioFish\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","link":"none","size":"full","ids":"99665,99664,99663,99661,99662","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fisherman's Wharf, obviously, originally got its name from the fishermen who sold their wares on the piers. There aren't as many sellers left, but on Pier 45 there are a number of wholesale seafood distributors and \u003cstrong>ABS Seafood\u003c/strong> is one of the best among them. In fact, ABS is so prolific that it even sells to one of the other spots on our list, the Tokyo Fish Market. While it is primarily a wholesaler and distributor, with no retail location, you can still call in orders directly and pick them up from the warehouse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because it's such a large distributor, ABS carries nearly every kind of seafood or fish you could possibly want. Though it's not all local or wild, ABS did start taking steps a few years ago to eliminate some of the fish known for being unsustainable from its inventory. If you need seafood in bulk, just call ABS.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.absseafood.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u003cstrong>ABS Seafood\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n45 Pier Shed D-1, San Francisco [\u003ca href=\"http://goo.gl/06N3lc\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">map\u003c/a>]\u003cbr>\nPh: (415) 401-0258\u003cbr>\nHours: Mon-Fri, 6am-noon\u003cbr>\nFacebook: \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/ABSseafood\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">ABS Seafood\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/99587/bay-area-bites-guide-to-8-places-to-buy-fresh-fish","authors":["1459"],"series":["bayareabites_15150"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_264","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_13746","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_358","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_14727","bayareabites_376","bayareabites_12212","bayareabites_14725","bayareabites_8985","bayareabites_323"],"featImg":"bayareabites_99635","label":"source_bayareabites_99587"},"bayareabites_109011":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_109011","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"109011","found":true},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"tiny-kitchen-videos-cook-up-real-food-in-doll-sized-portions","title":"'Tiny Kitchen' Videos Cook Up Real Food In Doll-Sized Portions","publishDate":1462300271,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Honey, I shrunk the queso.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They've fried hard shell tacos, made a comforting bowl of chicken noodle soup, even whipped up a batch of rainbow sprinkle-covered doughnuts. In an age of molecular gastronomy, this may not seem like culinary genius. But on \u003ca href=\"https://www.tastemade.com/shows/tiny-kitchen\">Tiny Kitchen\u003c/a>, everything is cooked in a dollhouse kitchen roughly 1/12 the normal size.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now in its second season, the popular online video series is produced by media group Tastemade. Jay Holzer, head of production, says the idea for a tiny cooking show came from one of Tastemade's Japanese partners, who sent them a box filled with a tiny stove, tiny utensils, and a set of tiny cutting boards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/BWig5gexJXQ\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Since then, it's taken on a life of its own,\" Holzer says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Miniatures have long been popular in Japan due to the cultural dominance of \u003cem>kawaii, \u003c/em>or all things cute, but making minuscule edible food — rather than polymer clay copies — is the newest incarnation of that trend. (A quick search of YouTube reveals several similar tiny cooking shows that appear to be from Japan.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of Tastemade's food stylists, Hannah Aufman, now works on \u003cem>Tiny Kitchen\u003c/em> exclusively. The show\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>has also commissioned a special kitchen from a dollhouse maker in Germany. Once the crew finds a tiny working oven and a tiny barbecue, the\u003cem> Tiny Kitchen\u003c/em> folks plan to continue expanding their tiny culinary repertoire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109013\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1996px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen_s2e6_tiny-eggplant-parm_landscapethumbnail_en-us_edited_wide-f51c01d8df2c09d4777ef536c8a7d49f6c77b8c1.jpg\" alt=\"Tiny Eggplant Parmesan\" width=\"1996\" height=\"1123\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109013\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen_s2e6_tiny-eggplant-parm_landscapethumbnail_en-us_edited_wide-f51c01d8df2c09d4777ef536c8a7d49f6c77b8c1.jpg 1996w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen_s2e6_tiny-eggplant-parm_landscapethumbnail_en-us_edited_wide-f51c01d8df2c09d4777ef536c8a7d49f6c77b8c1-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen_s2e6_tiny-eggplant-parm_landscapethumbnail_en-us_edited_wide-f51c01d8df2c09d4777ef536c8a7d49f6c77b8c1-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen_s2e6_tiny-eggplant-parm_landscapethumbnail_en-us_edited_wide-f51c01d8df2c09d4777ef536c8a7d49f6c77b8c1-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen_s2e6_tiny-eggplant-parm_landscapethumbnail_en-us_edited_wide-f51c01d8df2c09d4777ef536c8a7d49f6c77b8c1-1440x810.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen_s2e6_tiny-eggplant-parm_landscapethumbnail_en-us_edited_wide-f51c01d8df2c09d4777ef536c8a7d49f6c77b8c1-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen_s2e6_tiny-eggplant-parm_landscapethumbnail_en-us_edited_wide-f51c01d8df2c09d4777ef536c8a7d49f6c77b8c1-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1996px) 100vw, 1996px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tiny Eggplant Parmesan \u003ccite>( Courtesy of Tiny Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A lot more goes into creating a new recipe than math. In addition to rewriting existing recipes to fit the mini serving sizes, Aufman is responsible for jury-rigging ways to fry teensy taco shells (she bends a paper clip into something like a frying basket) or figuring out how to deal with eggs (use part of a quail egg, the smallest commercially available variety).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And forget gas or electricity — this mini stove is heated by a tealight. Since the volume of food being cooked is so small, the candle provides more than enough energy to melt butter or boil water. In fact, things often cook too quickly. Burgers take no more than a few seconds on each side.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/SqU0rTRVotw\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You can't regulate the heat,\" Holzer says. \"It's either 'hot as a tealight' or no heat at all.\" Luckily, the crew is quick with their tiny spatulas and ladles — utensils that are often not much bigger than a fingernail.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But size discrepancies are unavoidable when dealing with real food. That quail egg, for example, is the same size as the mixing bowl. An early episode, in which\u003cem> Tiny Kitchen\u003c/em> made bananas Foster, starts by showing a tiny knife chopping into an entire banana. Were this kitchen scaled back to full size, that banana would be at least as tall as a basketball player. To cut out doughnut holes, \u003cem>Tiny Kitchen\u003c/em> had to use part of a soda straw — but that still towered over the individual doughnuts. Even the dollhouse where the show is filmed sits in the midst of a gigantic soundstage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109019\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen.jpg\" alt=\"Even the dollhouse where Tiny Kitchen is filmed sits in the midst of a gigantic soundstage.\" width=\"800\" height=\"664\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109019\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen-400x332.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen-768x637.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Even the dollhouse where Tiny Kitchen is filmed sits in the midst of a gigantic soundstage. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tiny Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Somehow, the incongruities make the show feel more relatable. It's not just a beautifully decorated miniature. This is a \"working\" kitchen with real cooks (or at least their hands) making real food that just happens to be less-than-bite-sized. After each episode is done filming, the food is left out for people to eat. And it all does get eaten — though there's not much of it to go around.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Holzer says the most popular tiny recipes are the ones people know how to make at home. Pancakes and tacos are two of the show's most shared videos. \"It's something you or I know how to make a human-sized version of, so it's fun to watch it happen as a tiny thing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, it's just not very filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"They've fried hard shell tacos, made a gooey pot of queso, even whipped up a batch of rainbow sprinkle-covered doughnuts. All in a dollhouse kitchen roughly 1/12 the normal size.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1462300271,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":677},"headData":{"title":"'Tiny Kitchen' Videos Cook Up Real Food In Doll-Sized Portions | KQED","description":"They've fried hard shell tacos, made a gooey pot of queso, even whipped up a batch of rainbow sprinkle-covered doughnuts. All in a dollhouse kitchen roughly 1/12 the normal size.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"'Tiny Kitchen' Videos Cook Up Real Food In Doll-Sized Portions","datePublished":"2016-05-03T18:31:11.000Z","dateModified":"2016-05-03T18:31:11.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"109011 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=109011","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/05/03/tiny-kitchen-videos-cook-up-real-food-in-doll-sized-portions/","disqusTitle":"'Tiny Kitchen' Videos Cook Up Real Food In Doll-Sized Portions","nprByline":"Tove Danovich, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"Courtesy of Tiny Kitchen","nprStoryId":"475783900","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=475783900&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/05/03/475783900/tiny-kitchen-videos-cook-up-real-food-in-doll-sized-portions?ft=nprml&f=475783900","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 03 May 2016 14:04:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 03 May 2016 08:00:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 03 May 2016 14:04:48 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/109011/tiny-kitchen-videos-cook-up-real-food-in-doll-sized-portions","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Honey, I shrunk the queso.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They've fried hard shell tacos, made a comforting bowl of chicken noodle soup, even whipped up a batch of rainbow sprinkle-covered doughnuts. In an age of molecular gastronomy, this may not seem like culinary genius. But on \u003ca href=\"https://www.tastemade.com/shows/tiny-kitchen\">Tiny Kitchen\u003c/a>, everything is cooked in a dollhouse kitchen roughly 1/12 the normal size.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now in its second season, the popular online video series is produced by media group Tastemade. Jay Holzer, head of production, says the idea for a tiny cooking show came from one of Tastemade's Japanese partners, who sent them a box filled with a tiny stove, tiny utensils, and a set of tiny cutting boards.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/BWig5gexJXQ'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/BWig5gexJXQ'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\"Since then, it's taken on a life of its own,\" Holzer says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Miniatures have long been popular in Japan due to the cultural dominance of \u003cem>kawaii, \u003c/em>or all things cute, but making minuscule edible food — rather than polymer clay copies — is the newest incarnation of that trend. (A quick search of YouTube reveals several similar tiny cooking shows that appear to be from Japan.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of Tastemade's food stylists, Hannah Aufman, now works on \u003cem>Tiny Kitchen\u003c/em> exclusively. The show\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>has also commissioned a special kitchen from a dollhouse maker in Germany. Once the crew finds a tiny working oven and a tiny barbecue, the\u003cem> Tiny Kitchen\u003c/em> folks plan to continue expanding their tiny culinary repertoire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109013\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1996px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen_s2e6_tiny-eggplant-parm_landscapethumbnail_en-us_edited_wide-f51c01d8df2c09d4777ef536c8a7d49f6c77b8c1.jpg\" alt=\"Tiny Eggplant Parmesan\" width=\"1996\" height=\"1123\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109013\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen_s2e6_tiny-eggplant-parm_landscapethumbnail_en-us_edited_wide-f51c01d8df2c09d4777ef536c8a7d49f6c77b8c1.jpg 1996w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen_s2e6_tiny-eggplant-parm_landscapethumbnail_en-us_edited_wide-f51c01d8df2c09d4777ef536c8a7d49f6c77b8c1-400x225.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen_s2e6_tiny-eggplant-parm_landscapethumbnail_en-us_edited_wide-f51c01d8df2c09d4777ef536c8a7d49f6c77b8c1-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen_s2e6_tiny-eggplant-parm_landscapethumbnail_en-us_edited_wide-f51c01d8df2c09d4777ef536c8a7d49f6c77b8c1-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen_s2e6_tiny-eggplant-parm_landscapethumbnail_en-us_edited_wide-f51c01d8df2c09d4777ef536c8a7d49f6c77b8c1-1440x810.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen_s2e6_tiny-eggplant-parm_landscapethumbnail_en-us_edited_wide-f51c01d8df2c09d4777ef536c8a7d49f6c77b8c1-1180x664.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen_s2e6_tiny-eggplant-parm_landscapethumbnail_en-us_edited_wide-f51c01d8df2c09d4777ef536c8a7d49f6c77b8c1-960x540.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1996px) 100vw, 1996px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tiny Eggplant Parmesan \u003ccite>( Courtesy of Tiny Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A lot more goes into creating a new recipe than math. In addition to rewriting existing recipes to fit the mini serving sizes, Aufman is responsible for jury-rigging ways to fry teensy taco shells (she bends a paper clip into something like a frying basket) or figuring out how to deal with eggs (use part of a quail egg, the smallest commercially available variety).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And forget gas or electricity — this mini stove is heated by a tealight. Since the volume of food being cooked is so small, the candle provides more than enough energy to melt butter or boil water. In fact, things often cook too quickly. Burgers take no more than a few seconds on each side.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/SqU0rTRVotw'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/SqU0rTRVotw'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\"You can't regulate the heat,\" Holzer says. \"It's either 'hot as a tealight' or no heat at all.\" Luckily, the crew is quick with their tiny spatulas and ladles — utensils that are often not much bigger than a fingernail.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But size discrepancies are unavoidable when dealing with real food. That quail egg, for example, is the same size as the mixing bowl. An early episode, in which\u003cem> Tiny Kitchen\u003c/em> made bananas Foster, starts by showing a tiny knife chopping into an entire banana. Were this kitchen scaled back to full size, that banana would be at least as tall as a basketball player. To cut out doughnut holes, \u003cem>Tiny Kitchen\u003c/em> had to use part of a soda straw — but that still towered over the individual doughnuts. Even the dollhouse where the show is filmed sits in the midst of a gigantic soundstage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_109019\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen.jpg\" alt=\"Even the dollhouse where Tiny Kitchen is filmed sits in the midst of a gigantic soundstage.\" width=\"800\" height=\"664\" class=\"size-full wp-image-109019\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen-400x332.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2016/05/tiny-kitchen-768x637.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Even the dollhouse where Tiny Kitchen is filmed sits in the midst of a gigantic soundstage. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Tiny Kitchen)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Somehow, the incongruities make the show feel more relatable. It's not just a beautifully decorated miniature. This is a \"working\" kitchen with real cooks (or at least their hands) making real food that just happens to be less-than-bite-sized. After each episode is done filming, the food is left out for people to eat. And it all does get eaten — though there's not much of it to go around.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Holzer says the most popular tiny recipes are the ones people know how to make at home. Pancakes and tacos are two of the show's most shared videos. \"It's something you or I know how to make a human-sized version of, so it's fun to watch it happen as a tiny thing.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unfortunately, it's just not very filling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2016 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/109011/tiny-kitchen-videos-cook-up-real-food-in-doll-sized-portions","authors":["byline_bayareabites_109011"],"categories":["bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_2407","bayareabites_334","bayareabites_1593","bayareabites_316"],"tags":["bayareabites_15440","bayareabites_15439"],"featImg":"bayareabites_109012","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_82723":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_82723","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"82723","found":true},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"josey-baker-bread-baking-for-bros-with-gluten-free-adventure-bread-recipe","title":"Josey Baker Bread: Baking for Bros, with Gluten-Free Adventure Bread Recipe","publishDate":1401914981,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread-book-700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread-book-700.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker Bread\" width=\"700\" height=\"881\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-82825\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dude! You know what's totally cool? Baking bread. No, for real, man, it's awesome, and you can't, like, mess it up. Sure, you'll need to be around the house for a couple of days to tend it, and you should probably make a sourdough starter first, and yes, you'll probably need to go to Rainbow for rice and spelt and kamut flours, and maybe to Williams-Sonoma for a \u003ca href=\"http://www.williams-sonoma.com/products/round-banneton-bread-basket/\">banneton\u003c/a>. And if you get really into it, start grinding that flour yourself so it's super fresh, and yeah, you should try to get local grains too because supporting your local farmers is rad. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If local baker Chad Robertson's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0811870413/kqedorg-20\">Tartine Bread\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452114307/kqedorg-20\">Tartine Book No. 3\u003c/a> are for dedicated, spreadsheeting bread geeks, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452113688/kqedorg-20\">Josey Baker Bread\u003c/a>, recently published by Chronicle Books, is bread for bros.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82827\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread-Josey700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread-Josey700.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker with bread. Photo: Erin Kunkel\" width=\"700\" height=\"1050\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82827\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker with bread. Photo: Erin Kunkel\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://joseybakerbread.wordpress.com/\">Josey Baker\u003c/a>, who currently bakes at \u003ca href=\"http://themillsf.com/\">The Mill\u003c/a> in San Francisco and is the man responsible for their famous/infamous \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblesanfrancisco.com/4-dollar-toast/\">$4 toast\u003c/a>--is a passionate self-taught baker, who learned first from books and YouTube videos, then by showing up and baking elbow to elbow with other dedicated solo operators like Dave Miller of \u003ca href=\"http://www.millersbakehouse.com\">Miller's Bakehouse\u003c/a> in Chico. In his book, he assumes his readers are novice bakers, too, excited but clueless, and so his recipes are laid out like lessons, starting with a (mostly) simple, yeast-based pan loaf and building, stage by stage, to hand-shaped sourdough hearth loaves. Once the reader has mastered the basic sourdough loaf, Baker uses similar techniques and ratios to teach flavored breads, pizzas, and whole-grain, rye, kamut, and spelt loaves. He also shares the recipes for his popular fiber-crammed and gluten-free \"Adventure Loaf\" (recipe below), cornbread, chocolate-chip cookies, fruit crumble, and a roommate's long-soaked \"overnight oats\" porridge. Time (lots of it) and soaking (for seeds, nuts, dried fruits and grains) are the backbones of Baker's baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much like the sourdough starter he espouses, a little of Baker's dude-ish enthusiasm can go a long way, depending on your age, attitude and how much time you're spending getting ready for Burning Man this summer. Spend a few minutes scrolling though Baker's blog, though, and it's clear that the voice and tone of the book is sincerely his. Baker is a surfin', bakin', lovin' dude through and through, down to the naked jumping-in-a-river back view that he's proudly posted on his blog's home page. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes it's funny.\"Who doesn't like cinnamon raisin toast?\" he writes in the headnote for Cinnamon Raisin Bread. \"Jerks, that's who.\" Sometimes it's just a little much, as when he coos, half-ironically, \"But I really love me a hearth loaf. (That just sounds so sexy, doesn't it? Say it out loud: \u003cem>hearth loaf\u003c/em>. So liberated, so rustic, so pure).\" And repeating the same Food Network-style catchphrases in every recipe--\"Let the magic happen\" for rising, \"That's a very good question!\" underlined in red for every trouble-shooting query--gets old fast. There's also some needless padding, like a layout that starts every recipe with \"Gather your foodstuffs and tools,\" and the long, unmeasured list of required \"foodstuffs\" that's listed up front and adds an extra page to every recipe. (The ingredients, in their precise measurements, are repeated in easy-to-read tables within the recipes themselves.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But how are the breads? Anyone with a bag of flour and a packet of yeast can turn out a comforting, toastable loaf of sandwich bread. (Enter the bread machine.) But making really good bread takes both technique and time. Turning out bread with both a crunchy, crackly crust and a moist, air-hole-riddled interior--the sort of bread we're lucky enough to take for granted here in the Bay Area, home of so many fabulous artisan bakeries--takes a lot more attention and a more refined skill set. There's no getting around those facts, no matter how much Baker insists that his bread recipes are easily adjustable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each stage takes only a very small amount of hands-on time, it's true, but you do have to have the leisure, luxury, or flexibility to be around for these multiple stages, even if you're only spending a few minutes each time. Let's break it down: First there's the sourdough making, a 2-week building process. Then the pre-ferment (12 hours), the mixing and dough hydration (1 hour), the kneading and resting (4 times, spread out over 2 hours in 30-min intervals), the 2 or 3 hour bulk rise (2 to 3 hours), the pre-shape and resting (15 minutes), the final shaping and rising (3 to 4 hours), the baking (45 minutes) and the cooling (2 to 3 hours). This is bread baking for those with 24 hours to dedicate to making bread. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By no means is this a criticism of Baker's technique; dough is a living thing and making bread requires natural chemical processes that don't benefit from being rushed. Bread risen fast can taste harshly of the commercial yeast it's made from, while slow-risen, naturally leavened breads share the mellow flavor of their grains. But it can take some close reading to realize just how slow a process making these breads can be. Baker, in his enthusiasm, doesn't really lay out the timing beforehand, although he does scale each recipe's ingredients for 1, 2 and 4 loaves in a handy chart. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who think of Baker as simply the \"hipster toast guy,\" this book should be a cautionary tale for anyone hoping to start a small perishable food business, especially those used to the regular comfort of tech-sized paychecks. At least in writing, Baker takes a wide-eyed, aw-shucks attitude towards his current success, acting stunned each time his loaves find a new level of popularity, from neighbors offering to pay for the \"free bread\" he'd been passing around, to strangers signing up for his \"Community Supported Bread\" program after Daily Candy wrote a story about it, to the local businesses, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.missionpie.com\">Mission Pie\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzaiolooakland.com/\">Pizzaiolo\u003c/a>, who helped him grow his itinerant bakery by providing commercial baking space. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also took building a helping-hands community of friends and colleagues willing to share their time, space, expertise, and, in the case of Pizzaiolo owner Charlie Hallowell, even a couch, where Baker would crash during the wee hours while his dough rose in the restaurant nearby. Baker never complains--in fact, he's thrilled that doing what he loves has actually become a business--but he also doesn't play down the immense amounts of sheer physical work it took for him as a one-man operation to learn and make quality bread for sale, day in and day out, including huge amounts of driving, hauling, and up-and-down-the-stairs moving of bag after bag of flours, seeds, starters, equipment and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In describing how he came up with the small single-size loaves he calls \"pocketbreads\" (not pitas, but small, round sourdough loaves baked in muffin pans), he explains how he was losing sales to people who \"weren't looking for the commitment of an entire loaf.\" At that point, baking in a spare corner of the kitchen at Mission Pie, the bread was so labor-intensive that he needed to sell every bit he made. As he writes, \"So I started taking 10 or 15 pounds of my bread dough, tossing stuff in, shaping it into tiny loaves, and seeing how people liked them. Pocketbreads were a big deal for my budding bread business. Some days I sold 75 of those little suckers, at $2 a pop. That was big for me at the time, scraping by as I was. It meant another couple hundred bucks a week, and it meant I could keep diving deeper into bread.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Erin Kunkel's photographs are beautifully appetite-whetting, and work hard to make bread sexy (mmmm, drip that honey...). Gorgeous as they are, though, they often leave holes when it comes to illustrating the recipes step by step. Certain key steps, like the stretch-and-fold techniques used for kneading and shaping, are described but not photographed, which could be a drawback for those who haven't seen these less familiar techniques demonstrated in person. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes, Baker's chattiness and his need to anxiously reassure his readers that, really, anybody can do this and bread-baking isn't as hard as you think can get in the way of necessary detail. The Sesame Bread recipe starts with a whole-wheat pre-ferment of whole wheat flour, water, and a small amount of yeast. This rough, batter-like dough rises for 12 hours, and then the reader is instructed to simply mix in the next ingredients--bread flour, sesame seeds, water, salt. But what I got was a white dough ribboned like marble cake with brown whole-wheat pre-ferment, a unhomogenized mixture that needs serious beating to blend. Based on experience with other bread books, I realized it would have made much more sense to break the pre-ferment down in water like a batter, then expand it bit by bit with white flour to make a smooth dough. The explanations for stretching and turning the dough--a gentler version of kneading that works better for the slack, slow-risen doughs used here--could also use more clarification. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, Baker does his best to get novice bakers excited about the prospect of turning out serious bread. There are useful tips, like the need for pre-soaking seeds before adding (otherwise, they'll suck up excess moisture in the dough, resulting in a dry loaf), and the ways that rye, spelt and kamut flours act differently from wheat. (I also plan to adopt his DIY baker's blade--a sharpened popsicle stick slid through the holes of a double-edged razor blade--as soon as possible, since a regular knife blade invariably sticks and tears with every attempt to slash through the top of a jiggly risen pillow of dough.) If you can handle the tone, Baker offers a lot of useful information here, without getting either as precise or technical as Robertson. While Robertson seems dubious that anyone but a fellow obsessive can master his meticulous and beautiful breads, Baker can't wait to share the joy he finds in all things bread-related. He's convinced that anyone--that means you, baker!--can make a sexy loaf, given a handful of techniques and a bread-dedicated 24 hours or so. Go ye forth, dude, and bake. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.penroseoakland.com/\">Penrose Restaurant\u003c/a> will be featuring a special menu and booksigning for Josey Baker Bread on June 6, 5:30-10:30pm.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82824\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread_Adventure-Bread700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread_Adventure-Bread700.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker Adventure Bread. Photo: Erin Kunkel\" width=\"700\" height=\"1050\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82824\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker Adventure Bread. Photo: Erin Kunkel\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Adventure Bread\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452113688/kqedorg-20\">Josey Baker Bread\u003c/a> by Josey Baker (Chronicle Books, 2014).\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes you need a bread that is so dense, so hearty, so jam-packed full of seeds and grains (and devoid of air) that it will sustain you on your mightiest of adventures. That’s what this bread is for. But that’s not all it is for . . . it’s also gluten-free! That will either entice you or turn you off, but either way I really hope that you give it a shot because it is incredible, and it is suuuper healthy. It’s unlike any other bread in this book, in that there isn’t even any flour in it, and it isn’t fermented—it’s basically just a bunch of seeds held together with a little bit of psyllium seed husk and chia seeds. I started making it in the bakery because we kept having folks come in and ask us for gluten-free bread, and I got tired of saying no. Up until we made this bread, I had mostly been turned off by gluten-free breads, because it seemed like they were all just trying to imitate wheat breads, and failing miserably. But this bread stands on its own—it is gluten-free and proud of it. Special thanks goes out to Sarah Britton, blogger at My New Roots; her recipe inspired this bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>2 1/4 cups (235 gms) rolled oats\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (160 gms) sunflower seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup pumpkin seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup almonds, toasted and coarsely chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup flax seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/3 cup (25 gm) psyllium seed husk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp chia seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tsp (12 gm) finely ground sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tbsp maple syrup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 1/2 (600 gm) cups water\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Toast the seeds. Preheat your oven to 350°F/180°C. Spread the sunflower and pumpkin seeds on a baking sheet and toast until they start to brown, about 15 minutes, stirring halfway between baking.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Measure ingredients. Dump dry stuff into a big bowl. Then pour in all the wet stuff.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mix it all up, scoop into pan. Oil a loaf pan (about 8\" x 4\", or 20cm x 10cm), and then mush up your “dough” real good with your strong hands or a big spoon. Take pride in your mush-job, this is all of the handling you’re going to do with this “dough.” Once it’s mixed real good, scoop it into your oiled pan and smooth out the top so it looks nice. Then stick that guy in the fridge and leave it alone for at least a few hours, up to a whole day.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake it. Put a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400°F/200°C. Bake for about an hour or so, then take it out and gently remove the loaf from the pan. Let it cool on a cooling rack for at least 2 hours (YES, two whole hours). Don’t rush it here folks, this bread is D*E*N*S*E, and if you don’t wait for it to cool, it really won’t be as yummy.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Toast and eat. This bread is definitely best sliced nice and thin (around 1/2 inch/12 mm) and then toasted up and spread with whatever your heart desires. And don’t worry, if you’re adventuring somewhere without toaster access (like a gorgeous river in the middle of nowhere), it will still be scrumptious, I promise.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Love The Mill's fabulous toast? Learn how to make Josey Baker's sourdough breads at home with the new Josey Baker Bread cookbook. Includes the recipe for his seed-packed, gluten-free Adventure Loaf. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1411661239,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":2447},"headData":{"title":"Josey Baker Bread: Baking for Bros, with Gluten-Free Adventure Bread Recipe | KQED","description":"Love The Mill's fabulous toast? Learn how to make Josey Baker's sourdough breads at home with the new Josey Baker Bread cookbook. Includes the recipe for his seed-packed, gluten-free Adventure Loaf. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Josey Baker Bread: Baking for Bros, with Gluten-Free Adventure Bread Recipe","datePublished":"2014-06-04T20:49:41.000Z","dateModified":"2014-09-25T16:07:19.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"82723 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=82723","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/06/04/josey-baker-bread-baking-for-bros-with-gluten-free-adventure-bread-recipe/","disqusTitle":"Josey Baker Bread: Baking for Bros, with Gluten-Free Adventure Bread Recipe","path":"/bayareabites/82723/josey-baker-bread-baking-for-bros-with-gluten-free-adventure-bread-recipe","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread-book-700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread-book-700.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker Bread\" width=\"700\" height=\"881\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-82825\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dude! You know what's totally cool? Baking bread. No, for real, man, it's awesome, and you can't, like, mess it up. Sure, you'll need to be around the house for a couple of days to tend it, and you should probably make a sourdough starter first, and yes, you'll probably need to go to Rainbow for rice and spelt and kamut flours, and maybe to Williams-Sonoma for a \u003ca href=\"http://www.williams-sonoma.com/products/round-banneton-bread-basket/\">banneton\u003c/a>. And if you get really into it, start grinding that flour yourself so it's super fresh, and yeah, you should try to get local grains too because supporting your local farmers is rad. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If local baker Chad Robertson's \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0811870413/kqedorg-20\">Tartine Bread\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452114307/kqedorg-20\">Tartine Book No. 3\u003c/a> are for dedicated, spreadsheeting bread geeks, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452113688/kqedorg-20\">Josey Baker Bread\u003c/a>, recently published by Chronicle Books, is bread for bros.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82827\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread-Josey700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread-Josey700.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker with bread. Photo: Erin Kunkel\" width=\"700\" height=\"1050\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82827\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker with bread. Photo: Erin Kunkel\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://joseybakerbread.wordpress.com/\">Josey Baker\u003c/a>, who currently bakes at \u003ca href=\"http://themillsf.com/\">The Mill\u003c/a> in San Francisco and is the man responsible for their famous/infamous \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblesanfrancisco.com/4-dollar-toast/\">$4 toast\u003c/a>--is a passionate self-taught baker, who learned first from books and YouTube videos, then by showing up and baking elbow to elbow with other dedicated solo operators like Dave Miller of \u003ca href=\"http://www.millersbakehouse.com\">Miller's Bakehouse\u003c/a> in Chico. In his book, he assumes his readers are novice bakers, too, excited but clueless, and so his recipes are laid out like lessons, starting with a (mostly) simple, yeast-based pan loaf and building, stage by stage, to hand-shaped sourdough hearth loaves. Once the reader has mastered the basic sourdough loaf, Baker uses similar techniques and ratios to teach flavored breads, pizzas, and whole-grain, rye, kamut, and spelt loaves. He also shares the recipes for his popular fiber-crammed and gluten-free \"Adventure Loaf\" (recipe below), cornbread, chocolate-chip cookies, fruit crumble, and a roommate's long-soaked \"overnight oats\" porridge. Time (lots of it) and soaking (for seeds, nuts, dried fruits and grains) are the backbones of Baker's baking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much like the sourdough starter he espouses, a little of Baker's dude-ish enthusiasm can go a long way, depending on your age, attitude and how much time you're spending getting ready for Burning Man this summer. Spend a few minutes scrolling though Baker's blog, though, and it's clear that the voice and tone of the book is sincerely his. Baker is a surfin', bakin', lovin' dude through and through, down to the naked jumping-in-a-river back view that he's proudly posted on his blog's home page. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes it's funny.\"Who doesn't like cinnamon raisin toast?\" he writes in the headnote for Cinnamon Raisin Bread. \"Jerks, that's who.\" Sometimes it's just a little much, as when he coos, half-ironically, \"But I really love me a hearth loaf. (That just sounds so sexy, doesn't it? Say it out loud: \u003cem>hearth loaf\u003c/em>. So liberated, so rustic, so pure).\" And repeating the same Food Network-style catchphrases in every recipe--\"Let the magic happen\" for rising, \"That's a very good question!\" underlined in red for every trouble-shooting query--gets old fast. There's also some needless padding, like a layout that starts every recipe with \"Gather your foodstuffs and tools,\" and the long, unmeasured list of required \"foodstuffs\" that's listed up front and adds an extra page to every recipe. (The ingredients, in their precise measurements, are repeated in easy-to-read tables within the recipes themselves.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But how are the breads? Anyone with a bag of flour and a packet of yeast can turn out a comforting, toastable loaf of sandwich bread. (Enter the bread machine.) But making really good bread takes both technique and time. Turning out bread with both a crunchy, crackly crust and a moist, air-hole-riddled interior--the sort of bread we're lucky enough to take for granted here in the Bay Area, home of so many fabulous artisan bakeries--takes a lot more attention and a more refined skill set. There's no getting around those facts, no matter how much Baker insists that his bread recipes are easily adjustable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Each stage takes only a very small amount of hands-on time, it's true, but you do have to have the leisure, luxury, or flexibility to be around for these multiple stages, even if you're only spending a few minutes each time. Let's break it down: First there's the sourdough making, a 2-week building process. Then the pre-ferment (12 hours), the mixing and dough hydration (1 hour), the kneading and resting (4 times, spread out over 2 hours in 30-min intervals), the 2 or 3 hour bulk rise (2 to 3 hours), the pre-shape and resting (15 minutes), the final shaping and rising (3 to 4 hours), the baking (45 minutes) and the cooling (2 to 3 hours). This is bread baking for those with 24 hours to dedicate to making bread. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By no means is this a criticism of Baker's technique; dough is a living thing and making bread requires natural chemical processes that don't benefit from being rushed. Bread risen fast can taste harshly of the commercial yeast it's made from, while slow-risen, naturally leavened breads share the mellow flavor of their grains. But it can take some close reading to realize just how slow a process making these breads can be. Baker, in his enthusiasm, doesn't really lay out the timing beforehand, although he does scale each recipe's ingredients for 1, 2 and 4 loaves in a handy chart. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For those who think of Baker as simply the \"hipster toast guy,\" this book should be a cautionary tale for anyone hoping to start a small perishable food business, especially those used to the regular comfort of tech-sized paychecks. At least in writing, Baker takes a wide-eyed, aw-shucks attitude towards his current success, acting stunned each time his loaves find a new level of popularity, from neighbors offering to pay for the \"free bread\" he'd been passing around, to strangers signing up for his \"Community Supported Bread\" program after Daily Candy wrote a story about it, to the local businesses, including \u003ca href=\"http://www.missionpie.com\">Mission Pie\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pizzaiolooakland.com/\">Pizzaiolo\u003c/a>, who helped him grow his itinerant bakery by providing commercial baking space. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also took building a helping-hands community of friends and colleagues willing to share their time, space, expertise, and, in the case of Pizzaiolo owner Charlie Hallowell, even a couch, where Baker would crash during the wee hours while his dough rose in the restaurant nearby. Baker never complains--in fact, he's thrilled that doing what he loves has actually become a business--but he also doesn't play down the immense amounts of sheer physical work it took for him as a one-man operation to learn and make quality bread for sale, day in and day out, including huge amounts of driving, hauling, and up-and-down-the-stairs moving of bag after bag of flours, seeds, starters, equipment and more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In describing how he came up with the small single-size loaves he calls \"pocketbreads\" (not pitas, but small, round sourdough loaves baked in muffin pans), he explains how he was losing sales to people who \"weren't looking for the commitment of an entire loaf.\" At that point, baking in a spare corner of the kitchen at Mission Pie, the bread was so labor-intensive that he needed to sell every bit he made. As he writes, \"So I started taking 10 or 15 pounds of my bread dough, tossing stuff in, shaping it into tiny loaves, and seeing how people liked them. Pocketbreads were a big deal for my budding bread business. Some days I sold 75 of those little suckers, at $2 a pop. That was big for me at the time, scraping by as I was. It meant another couple hundred bucks a week, and it meant I could keep diving deeper into bread.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Erin Kunkel's photographs are beautifully appetite-whetting, and work hard to make bread sexy (mmmm, drip that honey...). Gorgeous as they are, though, they often leave holes when it comes to illustrating the recipes step by step. Certain key steps, like the stretch-and-fold techniques used for kneading and shaping, are described but not photographed, which could be a drawback for those who haven't seen these less familiar techniques demonstrated in person. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes, Baker's chattiness and his need to anxiously reassure his readers that, really, anybody can do this and bread-baking isn't as hard as you think can get in the way of necessary detail. The Sesame Bread recipe starts with a whole-wheat pre-ferment of whole wheat flour, water, and a small amount of yeast. This rough, batter-like dough rises for 12 hours, and then the reader is instructed to simply mix in the next ingredients--bread flour, sesame seeds, water, salt. But what I got was a white dough ribboned like marble cake with brown whole-wheat pre-ferment, a unhomogenized mixture that needs serious beating to blend. Based on experience with other bread books, I realized it would have made much more sense to break the pre-ferment down in water like a batter, then expand it bit by bit with white flour to make a smooth dough. The explanations for stretching and turning the dough--a gentler version of kneading that works better for the slack, slow-risen doughs used here--could also use more clarification. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Still, Baker does his best to get novice bakers excited about the prospect of turning out serious bread. There are useful tips, like the need for pre-soaking seeds before adding (otherwise, they'll suck up excess moisture in the dough, resulting in a dry loaf), and the ways that rye, spelt and kamut flours act differently from wheat. (I also plan to adopt his DIY baker's blade--a sharpened popsicle stick slid through the holes of a double-edged razor blade--as soon as possible, since a regular knife blade invariably sticks and tears with every attempt to slash through the top of a jiggly risen pillow of dough.) If you can handle the tone, Baker offers a lot of useful information here, without getting either as precise or technical as Robertson. While Robertson seems dubious that anyone but a fellow obsessive can master his meticulous and beautiful breads, Baker can't wait to share the joy he finds in all things bread-related. He's convinced that anyone--that means you, baker!--can make a sexy loaf, given a handful of techniques and a bread-dedicated 24 hours or so. Go ye forth, dude, and bake. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.penroseoakland.com/\">Penrose Restaurant\u003c/a> will be featuring a special menu and booksigning for Josey Baker Bread on June 6, 5:30-10:30pm.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82824\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 700px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread_Adventure-Bread700.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/Josey-Baker-Bread_Adventure-Bread700.jpg\" alt=\"Josey Baker Adventure Bread. Photo: Erin Kunkel\" width=\"700\" height=\"1050\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82824\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Josey Baker Adventure Bread. Photo: Erin Kunkel\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Adventure Bread\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1452113688/kqedorg-20\">Josey Baker Bread\u003c/a> by Josey Baker (Chronicle Books, 2014).\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sometimes you need a bread that is so dense, so hearty, so jam-packed full of seeds and grains (and devoid of air) that it will sustain you on your mightiest of adventures. That’s what this bread is for. But that’s not all it is for . . . it’s also gluten-free! That will either entice you or turn you off, but either way I really hope that you give it a shot because it is incredible, and it is suuuper healthy. It’s unlike any other bread in this book, in that there isn’t even any flour in it, and it isn’t fermented—it’s basically just a bunch of seeds held together with a little bit of psyllium seed husk and chia seeds. I started making it in the bakery because we kept having folks come in and ask us for gluten-free bread, and I got tired of saying no. Up until we made this bread, I had mostly been turned off by gluten-free breads, because it seemed like they were all just trying to imitate wheat breads, and failing miserably. But this bread stands on its own—it is gluten-free and proud of it. Special thanks goes out to Sarah Britton, blogger at My New Roots; her recipe inspired this bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>2 1/4 cups (235 gms) rolled oats\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 cup (160 gms) sunflower seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup pumpkin seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup almonds, toasted and coarsely chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup flax seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/3 cup (25 gm) psyllium seed husk\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 tbsp chia seeds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tsp (12 gm) finely ground sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tbsp maple syrup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 1/2 (600 gm) cups water\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Toast the seeds. Preheat your oven to 350°F/180°C. Spread the sunflower and pumpkin seeds on a baking sheet and toast until they start to brown, about 15 minutes, stirring halfway between baking.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Measure ingredients. Dump dry stuff into a big bowl. Then pour in all the wet stuff.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mix it all up, scoop into pan. Oil a loaf pan (about 8\" x 4\", or 20cm x 10cm), and then mush up your “dough” real good with your strong hands or a big spoon. Take pride in your mush-job, this is all of the handling you’re going to do with this “dough.” Once it’s mixed real good, scoop it into your oiled pan and smooth out the top so it looks nice. Then stick that guy in the fridge and leave it alone for at least a few hours, up to a whole day.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Bake it. Put a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400°F/200°C. Bake for about an hour or so, then take it out and gently remove the loaf from the pan. Let it cool on a cooling rack for at least 2 hours (YES, two whole hours). Don’t rush it here folks, this bread is D*E*N*S*E, and if you don’t wait for it to cool, it really won’t be as yummy.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Toast and eat. This bread is definitely best sliced nice and thin (around 1/2 inch/12 mm) and then toasted up and spread with whatever your heart desires. And don’t worry, if you’re adventuring somewhere without toaster access (like a gorgeous river in the middle of nowhere), it will still be scrumptious, I promise.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/82723/josey-baker-bread-baking-for-bros-with-gluten-free-adventure-bread-recipe","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_59","bayareabites_13430","bayareabites_138","bayareabites_13421","bayareabites_13422","bayareabites_9782"],"featImg":"bayareabites_82828","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_129373":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_129373","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"129373","found":true},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"five-la-cocina-graduates-who-now-have-brick-and-mortar-food-businesses","title":"Five La Cocina Graduates Who Now Have Brick-and-Mortar Food Businesses","publishDate":1532699550,"format":"image","headTitle":"New Restaurants 2018 | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":16196,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>When you step inside the Outer Mission complex that houses the \u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a> food business incubator kitchen and offices on a regular weekday afternoon, it’s easy to be overwhelmed by the busy chefs, the delicious smells of baked goods and roasting meats, and the constant whirl of activity in preparation for the various markets, kiosks and catering events coming up in a few hours. There are spots for eight participants in this kitchen and it definitely seems like a ninth would be impossible to squeeze in. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129706\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new.jpg\" alt=\"In the busy kitchen at La Cocina headquarters.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129706\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In the busy kitchen at La Cocina headquarters. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The space might be tight but the goals for the nonprofit are admirably enormous. Its mission is to find talented low-income food entrepreneurs, generally women of color and immigrant communities (a handful of men have been in the program, including the very successful \u003ca href=\"http://www.onigilly.com/\">Onigilly\u003c/a> concept). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/people\">Caleb Zigas\u003c/a>, La Cocina’s Executive Director who has been involved since it debuted in 2005, told us that the incubator’s 11 staff members avoid using words like “teach” or “empower.” These women have already identified a product that they excel at and a worthy price for it — they aren’t starting from scratch concept-wise, but they usually are just cooking for friends or selling from home. Zigas pointed out that, “They know everything there is to know about business. What they may not know is how to formalize that business into a marketplace that intentionally throws up barriers.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129715\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1.jpg\" alt=\"La Cocina's Executive Director Caleb Zigas in the kitchen at La Cocina headquarters.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1588\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129715\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-160x132.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-800x662.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-768x635.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-1020x844.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-1200x993.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-1180x976.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-960x794.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-240x199.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-375x310.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-520x430.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Cocina's Executive Director Caleb Zigas in the kitchen at La Cocina headquarters. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We talked with five of La Cocina’s graduates who now have brick-and-mortar restaurants or kiosks. There were universal problems acknowledged by all where they could never possibly have defeated certain barriers without La Cocina’s assistance — the surging real estate prices, not speaking English well or looking a certain way being chief among them. Even La Cocina itself faces some of these problems for its proposed food hall planned for the heart of the struggling Tenderloin in 2019. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Cocina’s program has three application deadlines a year and information orientations for interested individuals every other month. Once you’re in the program, it can take up to eight years to go through pre-incubation planning, the incubation period, finding capital and space, the exit to that space, and finally “graduation” when the business is self-sufficient. Yes, it can be as brisk as a one-year degree in theory but is much more likely to be a lengthy medical school and residency-type of time frame.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Cocina graduates have had incredible success in a wide variety of cuisines and business types. We talked with women serving Cambodian, Southern, Mexican, Arab and Gujarat (Indian) cooking. The current class includes Nepalese, Jamaican, Japanese and Salvadoran-themed businesses. Over 30 brick-and-mortars from graduates exist around the Bay Area (a handful are commissary kitchens).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those present entrepreneurs in the La Cocina kitchen are following in the esteemed footsteps of women who never thought they would ever call a restaurant their own. Here are the stories of five graduates who are now navigating the Bay Area restaurant scene with their own businesses.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.besharamrestaurant.com/\">Besharam\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Besharam/@37.754276,-122.3916646,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7f0ce31950a5:0x7718a923d0103fe2!8m2!3d37.7542718!4d-122.3894705\">1275 Minnesota St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129719\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new.jpg\" alt=\"Besharam interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129719\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Besharam interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Barely 45 diners can fit into the serene, colorful dining room of Besharam, a spunky newcomer located in the Minnesota Street Project art gallery complex, in a far industrial corner of the Dogpatch. Despite the small size and isolated location, Besharam screams with relentless character that can be as boisterous as the heat in the spiced garlic sauce served with the grilled chicken kebab and hand-rolled flatbread at lunch. \u003cstrong>Chef and co-owner Heena Patel\u003c/strong> decided on the name, “shameless” in Hindi, because she knows she’s different than everyone else — in her family, in the Bay Area, in the world — and she isn’t afraid to show that, hey, she’s running the show at a restaurant in San Francisco and never in a million years would she have expected that while growing up as the second of five daughters in the Gujarat state of India.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is bleu cheese naan with wasabi raita on the menu and a giant pop-art mural by \u003ca href=\"https://hatecopy.com/\">HateCopy’s Maria Qamar\u003c/a> next to the open kitchen with a Hindi woman drinking a cocktail. The soundtrack is bumping all lunch and dinner-long with Michael Jackson, Indian pop and seemingly everything in between. It’s definitely Heena’s restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129731\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Chef and Partner Heena Patel in front of pop-art mural by HateCopy’s Maria Qamar\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129731\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef and Partner Heena Patel in front of pop-art mural by HateCopy’s Maria Qamar. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, there are pavs (sliders, a classic street food) served with little gems and pickled shiitake mushrooms on the menu, co-existing with a grilled zucchini salad and fish moilee with coconut curry and turmeric rice. In the evening, there are shishito peppers stuffed with a tamarind and chickpea filling; edamame dumplings in a lentil broth; paratha tacos accented by a strawberry-mint chutney; and ghee-roasted pork chops. Heema puts her Gujarat-meets-world philosophy about the always hotly debated “authenticity” question very bluntly: “You can take it or leave it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129740\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled Chicken Kabobs: Hand-rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129740\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grilled Chicken Kabobs: Hand-rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After all, she’s come all the way to this point from Gujarat to London to Marin County to full-time restaurant in San Francisco. She defeated the odds and has earned the right to cook what she wants to cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129737\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new.jpg\" alt=\"Heena Patel rolls dough for flatbread in back kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129737\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Heena Patel rolls dough for flatbread in back kitchen. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She got a home-science degree from Mumbai University and was given the common “a or b” decision from her father — continue studying and get a master’s degree, or go to London and find a man to marry. She elected for the latter and amidst all the boys who lined up for her, she found her husband, Paresh, after two weeks. When she was 25-years old and Paresh was 30, the couple and their then three-year old daughter moved from London to Marin County on a business visa. The two ran an adjacent liquor store and flower shop in Terra Linda (by San Rafael) for 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129738\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled Paneer Kabobs: Hand rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129738\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grilled Paneer Kabobs: Hand rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It wasn’t easy upon arriving in California for Heena, being someone who looks differently, speaks differently and didn’t know a word of English at the time. In 1992, Heena would struggle on the phone at the shops, answering calls and unable to communicate clearly, despite her best efforts. On the other end of the line, one particularly disrespectful man screamed at her for her lack of English and to this day gets her worked up emotionally. It was not a welcoming way for her to step into a supposedly welcoming country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sitting down with La Cocina alums in the past few weeks, we’ve found a theme in how there was a mutual connection that led the chef/entrepreneur to the program. That happened in 2013 for Heena where she self-admittedly had “zero idea of the food business” but “checked off all the boxes” for what La Cocina looks for. Heena really wanted to open a concept for serving her style of traditional and not-so-traditional Gujarati cuisine, and the program helped her craft a 90-page business plan…for the truck. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129742\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new.jpg\" alt=\"Besharam Lunch Menu.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129742\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Besharam Lunch Menu. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Have you seen that truck around San Francisco? Nope, we didn’t think so, because it never ended up happening. Instead, she started “Rasoi,” a Ferry Building farmers' market vendor concept. Heena also held pop-ups at the likes of Jardinière and State Bird Provisions. At the latter, she served a dessert to chef and co-owner Stuart Brioza, who was beyond thrilled with his first taste, seemingly having a life-altering epiphany. Talk about the ultimate compliment and confidence booster for a shy, upstart cook like Heena.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129746\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new.jpg\" alt=\"A tray of Besharam desserts.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129746\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A tray of Besharam desserts. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then it all happened so fast with the restaurateur Daniel Patterson after La Cocina connected the two and she was invited to have lunch with him at his restaurant, Alta, in the Minnesota Street Project. Yes, that Daniel Patterson, the chef known for high-end cooking at San Francisco fine dining stalwarts like the now-closed Elisabeth Daniel and Coi. Heena was skeptical and even admitted to us, “I googled him — who is Daniel Patterson?” Recently, Patterson has become instrumental in championing socioeconomic diversity by working with Restaurants Opportunities Center United and helping aspiring restaurateurs, like Heena, defeat the odds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the lunch, Patterson offered the Alta space to Heena. It swept her off her feet. She could cook and do what she does so well, and be helped in what she’s less experienced with. Now, two months since opening, Heena has even more respect for Patterson than before she went into business with him. Simply put — the system of passionate chef, La Cocina education and renowned chef mentor/business system is working.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/qITc3R1akO0\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To date, the biggest question from diners for Heena has been, “Where is the chicken tikka masala?”, pigeon-holing the most well-known Indian dish to Americans that isn’t even a traditional Indian dish. (Answer: not at this restaurant). Heena has also been shocked by how savvy her customers are, estimating about 90% have an open mind (and don’t care about the lack of tikka masala) and love her adorably different, somewhat quirky concept. She also is hugely surprised by how many Indian customers just keep coming and coming, often with big groups of non-Indian colleagues and friends. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, it has been quite the journey from Gujarat to the Dogpatch for Heena and Paresh. Their 29-year old daughter is studying for the bar exam and their 21-year old son is an aspiring journalist, studying at Vassar College in New York. Everyone chips in to help at Besharam, whether on the floor or from afar. Both kids help their mom with something that is definitely not one of her biggest strengths: social media. Meanwhile, at the restaurant, Paresh helps with the front-of-house and also assists on the wine and newly-launched cocktail program with Alta Group Beverage Director, Aaron Paul. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paresh should also get lots of credit for allowing San Francisco to have the privilege of knowing what he’s known for decades — how talented a chef Heena is. Once, when she was doubting if a restaurant would ever happen, he assured her that “what you serve is basic but people are hungry for it.” He was very correct, though bleu cheese naan is definitely not basic. San Francisco was starving for the open-minded style of cooking that Heena brings to the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129728\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new.jpg\" alt=\"Besharam signage on the front door.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129728\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Besharam signage on the front door. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.huaracheloco.com/\">El Huarache Loco\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/El+Huarache+Loco/@37.9474025,-122.5116057,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80859a43f733d57f:0xdf3b9d5506983993!8m2!3d37.9473983!4d-122.5094116\">1803 Larkspur Landing Circle, Larkspur\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129756\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new.jpg\" alt=\"Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at El Huarache Loco.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129756\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at El Huarache Loco. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>No, there are no burritos on the menu at \u003cstrong>Veronica Salazar’s\u003c/strong> restaurant inside Larkspur’s tony Marin Country Mart. Of course, that’s one of the first things a good percentage of her diners notice on an initial visit and ask about. For Salazar, it’s pretty simple why there are no burritos to be found at El Huarache Loco — burritos aren’t really something people eat in Mexico. “Find them at Walmart” is her advice if you want a burrito in Mexico City because they serve them in the frozen food aisle (though she can’t vouch for if they’re delicious at all). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129759\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new.jpg\" alt=\"Huarache Con Costillo\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129759\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Huarache Con Costillo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>However, diners will find a thrilling roster of Mexico City street food and home cooking staples at El Huarache Loco, beginning with the namesake huaraches. They are thin-pressed, oval-shaped masa “tortillas” that are often thought of as “sandal-shaped.” If you’re still having trouble, just picture a flattened tamale, minus the banana leaf and with the fillings on top of the masa, and you’re kind of on the right track. The huarache is a platform for all kinds of toppings from ham, bacon and chorizo to tender rib meat (“costilla”) to the must-try nopales salad (cactus!). There is a thin layer of black bean paste between the tortilla and the toppings, then crowning garnishes of a rustic-zesty red salsa, cilantro, onions, cheese and the all-important squiggles of cool crema. Yes, it’s all kind of crazy but really it’s just downright delicious. (The “loco” in the name, by the way, is because it’s a fun word and El Huarache Loco is a common restaurant name in Mexico.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trust us, you’ll be wishing every burrito place served huaraches after your first one from Salazar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129852\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new.jpg\" alt=\"Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at work in the open kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129852\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at work in the open kitchen. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She has been cooking them each Saturday morning at the Alemany Farmers' Market (the “People’s Market”) since 2006, just a year after joining the La Cocina program. Since coming to the Bay Area in 1995 with her husband, she had been cooking food at home for friends, family and pretty much anyone who wanted a taste of the CDMX (Ciudad de Mexico, the name Mexico City is often referred to in Mexico). Salazar first heard about a kitchen for low-income women from a news story on Univision and was soon in touch with La Cocina thanks to one of her customers. Salazar also was involved with the now-shuttered Women’s Initiative for Self Employment (also known as ALAS), who helped her hatch the all-important business plan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129765\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new.jpg\" alt=\"Quesadilla Chilanga with Huitlacoche\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129765\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Quesadilla Chilanga with Huitlacoche \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fast-forward to 2012 and Salazar’s popularity at Alemany made her a favorite of critics and diners alike (count this writer as one who visited in the early days and became an enormous fan). A developer in Marin County was looking for a chef to run a Mexican restaurant in their new rustic, high-end shopping complex by the Larkspur Ferry Terminal. Salazar noted to us recently that it was a pretty “ugly, lonely looking place” at first. But, she believed in it. The commute wouldn’t be so bad (after all, from her home in San Francisco, it takes just as long to get to La Cocina as it does to drive to Larkspur) and the crowds would come just like at Alemany.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129762\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fish taco\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129762\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fish taco \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The risk clearly worked as El Huarache Loco became the first restaurant opened by a La Cocina alum. Salazar pays homage to her La Cocina roots with a 2011 picture of her in the incubator’s kitchen with three fellow chefs, all of whom have successful full-time concepts today. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129767\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new.jpg\" alt=\"Inside El Huarache Loco with 2011 photo of her in La Cocina incubator’s kitchen on the wall.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129767\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside El Huarache Loco with 2011 photo of her in La Cocina incubator’s kitchen on the wall. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Around the restaurant, she also has many distinct nods to her Mexico City home and her family — a family that has run a restaurant, Caldos Rivera, for more than 60 years in the heart of the chaotic city. Salazar told us that as a woman in Mexico, “To live, you have to learn how to cook.” These dishes have been with her forever. Beyond huaraches, the menu in Larkspur includes “antojitos” (CDMX specials and appetizers), like a delicate, curled huitlacoche-filled (dark black corn fungus) quesadilla that is nothing like the greasy, cheesy, flat Tex-Mex quesadillas you’ve surely tried. There are other unfamiliar names to most Bay Area diners like pambazos, sopes, gorditas and tostadas. Breakfast features huevos rancheros and chilaquiles. There are also more familiar tacos in myriad formats and fillings, along with daily specials and enchiladas that are again not recognizable to most diners in the audience. Salazar honors her mother in the chop-like house “Doña Luz” salad with a smorgasbord of great ingredients because her mother was so great at tying together surplus ingredients into a salad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129760\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ensalada Doña Luz\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129760\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ensalada Doña Luz \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salazar doesn’t cut any corners. She makes her own masa for the tortillas; fantastic and not-too-sweet agua frescas are housemade; and the guacamole is prepared from scratch, along with a half-dozen types of salsa. She has had to adapt a bit for the Marin audience. Remember, while there are lots of adventurous diners ready to eat anything, anywhere — there are also plenty of soccer moms and rushed ferry commuters stopping by. So, tripe-filled menudo quickly left the menu. There is no tongue amongst the taco meats. There is, however, alphabet soup on the kid’s menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129764\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new.jpg\" alt=\"Agua frescas are housemade: jimica (hibiscus), pineapple and watermelon.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129764\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Agua frescas are housemade: jimica (hibiscus), pineapple and watermelon. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salazar has found a home in a place that is about as far a 180-degree spin from hectic Mexico City as you can get. Inside El Huacache Loco, there are giant handmade rancho-style chairs and lots of the customary singing and dancing skeletons from Dia de los Muertos celebrations that you might find in her home city. Then walk outside and you’ll see a pond with koi and turtles, lots of relaxed locals who just left yoga class, and you’ll certainly notice how the exterior of El Huarache Loco is the same as everything else in the charming shopping area (freshly painted, chic farmhouse-looking). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new.jpg\" alt=\"El Huarache Loco outside eating area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129766\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">El Huarache Loco outside eating area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In bucolic Marin, Salazar is still trying to defeat the naysayers who claim that this isn’t “real Mexican food.” Quite simply, anyone can think what they want to think, but we know that they’re wrong. Salazar definitely knows that they’re wrong because she is one of the Bay Area’s great ambassadors of the cuisine from one of the world’s grandest and most culturally enriching cities. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.minniebellssoul.com/\">Minnie Bell’s Soul Food Movement\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Public+Market/@37.8412911,-122.2938373,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x68a7c0c0b72fc684!8m2!3d37.8412911!4d-122.2938373\">5959 Shellmound St., Emeryville\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129780\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fernay McPherson, the Chef-Owner of Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129780\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fernay McPherson, the Chef-Owner of Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Excuse me! I hate to interrupt, but may I just say that she makes THE best fried chicken I have ever had.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few seconds later, both the glowing customer and Fernay McPherson, the Chef-Owner of Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement, lightheartedly assure this food writer that this moment wasn’t staged for our interview. He genuinely feels that this crispy, succulent, rosemary-flecked plate of fried chicken was the greatest that he had ever encountered, even surpassing his longtime prior gold standard — of course, his own recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129784\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Millie Bell's Rosemary Fried Chicken and Cornbread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129784\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Millie Bell's Rosemary Fried Chicken and Cornbread. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As an hour goes by with McPherson, nobody else stops the interview other than a coworker asking a fryer question or her 13-year old son, Eric, stopping by because his summer job right now is working for his mom’s Emeryville Public Market kiosk four-days-a-week (Eric’s mom informs us that his favorite part of the job is counting the hours he’s worked and charging those hours). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129797\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fernay McPherson, fellow employee and Fernay's son Eric (R) working at the Minnie Bell's kiosk.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129797\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fernay McPherson, fellow employee and Fernay's son Eric (R) working at the Minnie Bell's kiosk. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But, once McPherson is back at her post in the tiny Minnie Bell’s space, roving between the cash register, the two fryers, the refrigerator full of Kool-Aid (a LOT of freshly-mixed, not exactly all-natural Kool-Aid), and the back’s prep areas, she’s receiving constant praise from happy customers of all ages and backgrounds. Maybe it’s the fact that the kiosk is in an isolated corner of a Public Market with constant construction? Maybe it’s McPherson’s ever-present upbeat charm? Maybe it’s because they’re all drinking the Minnie Bell’s Kool-Aid? Maybe…it’s the rosemary?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129793\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new.jpg\" alt=\"A sprig of fried rosemary accompanies the Rosemary Fried Chicken.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129793\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sprig of fried rosemary accompanies the Rosemary Fried Chicken. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Yes, the rosemary fried chicken. It’s everything that a legendary fried chicken should be with a crunchy, ready-to-shatter crust that is gleefully free of grease, and meat that is as juicy as a ripe summer peach, whether you’re munching on drumstick, wing, breast or thigh. Rosemary has been the recipe’s staple since her early adult cooking days when she had rosemary on hand and sampled with it. Her recipe has no seasoning nor any buttermilk or a second dredging of batter. McPherson’s key move is to give the chicken a rosemary-hot sauce marinade for 24 hours or more. Then she fries the chicken and rosemary in clean oil (the kiosk closes between lunch and dinner for a labor-intensive oil switch-out). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129801\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new.jpg\" alt=\"The kiosk closes between lunch and dinner for a labor-intensive oil switch-out.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129801\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The kiosk closes between lunch and dinner for a labor-intensive oil switch-out. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With all of this chicken talk, Minnie Bell’s is by no means a one-hit wonder. The menu sticks to roughly a half-dozen supporting cast members, all of whom are vegetarian (no bacon, no lard). Well, the three-cheese mac & cheese with Parmesan, fontina and cheddar isn’t exactly a light selection, nor is the sweeter, fluffier-style of cornbread that McPherson makes with lots of brown butter. However, the smoky vegan red rice and beans and the red chili-accented braised greens are miles ahead of their peers in flavor complexity and a clean brightness that is never associated with them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new.jpg\" alt=\"Three-cheese Mac & Cheese with Parmesan.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129782\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Three-cheese Mac & Cheese with Parmesan. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129804\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new.jpg\" alt=\"Braised Greens.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129804\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Braised Greens. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new.jpg\" alt=\"Red Beans & Rice Salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Red Beans & Rice Salad. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>McPherson’s family is originally from New Mexico and Texas, and came to California as part of the mid-century Great Migration, a period when the Fillmore was booming as the “Harlem of the West.” A generation later, McPherson has called the Fillmore “home” for all but a couple years when she attended cooking school in Sacramento. Sadly, she has witnessed that neighborhood boom steadily fade. She’s hoping that one day Minnie Bell’s can play a part in bringing back that vibrant heyday for the corridor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129789\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new.jpg\" alt=\"McPherson has called the Fillmore “home” and that is reflected on the back of Minnie Bell's T-shirts which say "EST. IN FILLMOE."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129789\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">McPherson has called the Fillmore “home” and that is reflected on the back of Minnie Bell's T-shirts which say \"EST. IN FILLMOE.\" \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At first, her role in the kitchen for the family was to grate cheese for mac ‘n’ cheese, an activity that she admittedly “dreaded.” The first recipe she had to master was a Betty Crocker Dinette Cake. She gradually learned how to cook her family’s soul food recipes from her late grandmother Lillie Bell and her great aunt Minnie (now 85 years old). Their impact on her personal and professional life years later are why both are the namesakes of Minnie Bell’s and, frankly, why she was compelled to become a chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129781\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fernay McPherson's late grandmother Lillie Bell (R) and her great aunt Minnie (now 85 years old)\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129781\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fernay McPherson's late grandmother Lillie Bell (R) and her great aunt Minnie (now 85 years old) \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The concept launched as a mobile catering company, hence the Soul “Movement.” She joined La Cocina in 2011 and participated in the Fillmore Mobile Food Vendor and Artisan Marketplace program, a small business course that La Cocina taught with Urban Solutions, a nonprofit economic development organization. “Small businesses are what make the world go around,” McPherson tells us. Sadly, seven years later, the city is still “sleeping on the fact that we’re small businesses.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During her time with La Cocina, Minnie Bell’s became increasingly in demand for catering and pop-ups, with the most notable of the latter being a substantial run at Wing Wings in the Lower Haight. Still, the permanent restaurant just wouldn’t come, but luckily a yearlong lease in the Emeryville Public Market emerged after fellow La Cocina alum Nyum Bai left.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129812\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new.jpg\" alt=\""Nourish The Public + Nourish Yourself" signage at The Emeryville Public Market next to Minnie Bell's kiosk.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129812\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Nourish The Public + Nourish Yourself\" signage at The Emeryville Public Market next to Minnie Bell's kiosk. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Fillmore is having huge dining growth, started by the blockbuster State Bird Provisions, and recently followed by the likes of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery\u003c/a>, Wise Sons and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/128414/merchant-roots-daytime-grocer-and-imaginative-nighttime-tasting-menu-table-arrives-on-fillmore\">Merchant Roots\u003c/a>. All are delicious and small (ish) businesses — and all are not black-owned. For McPherson, the scene on Fillmore is “bittersweet” because these are very worthy and considerate additions to the neighborhood, but “it’s a mystery” to her and “an eyesore for the community” how there are still so many prominently vacant storefronts in the corridor. Real estate developers keep holding out for someone to pay bigger and bigger bucks. It’s about the money. It’s all about the money. In the meantime, the potentially vibrant culture and significant foot traffic is kept away, other than the nightly State Bird Provisions line.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soon, McPherson will get her permanent restaurant because she is an immensely gifted chef with the fervently devoted following that she deserves like that raving diner who paused our interview. Those fans will follow Minnie Bell’s wherever its movement goes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129792\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new.jpg\" alt=\"Signage for Minnie Bell's Soul Movement.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129792\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Signage for Minnie Bell's Soul Movement. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nyumbai.com/\">Nyum Bai\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Nyum+Bai/@37.7763222,-122.224679,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0xc85f72f420fd5355?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjX94G4g63cAhVD7VQKHe60B8UQ_BIItAEwDQ\">3340 E 12th St., Oakland Suite 11\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taste the steamed fish soufflé called “amok” and dip some exquisitely trimmed cucumbers into “prahok,” a homey and spicy ground pork dip, and you’ll simultaneously experience profound beauty and pain through a cuisine’s powerful story. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new.jpg\" alt=\"Prahok Ktiss\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129834\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prahok Ktiss \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is so much joy in Cambodian cooking, whether starting with a banana blossom, cabbage and sweet basil “ngoum banana salad” or digging into the slightly sweet, profoundly earthy and balanced “kuy teav Phnom Penh” noodles in a seven-hour pork broth that tastes much more like a complex craft cocktail at Trick Dog than the rugged tonkotsu ramen broth you would be expecting. Along with the food, there is tremendous beauty in the stunning natural setting and rich culture of Cambodia, one that is not very well known to the Bay Area audience. As Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Oakland’s five-month old restaurant, Nyum Bai, unfortunately points out — everyone seems to know about Angkor Wat’s temples and the genocide, and that’s about it for Cambodia. She’s trying to change that one guest at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129825\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai making Ngoum Banana Salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129825\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai making Ngoum Banana Salad. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129841\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad.jpg\" alt=\"Nite Yun in Nyum Bai kitchen carrying finished Ngoum Banana Salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1077\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129841\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-800x449.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-768x431.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-1020x572.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-1200x673.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-1180x662.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-960x539.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-375x210.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-520x292.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite Yun in Nyum Bai kitchen carrying finished Ngoum Banana Salad. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129829\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ngoum Banana Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129829\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ngoum Banana Salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Nite’s earliest memories from her youth are eating rice with her hands on the floor of her family’s apartment in Stockton while mid-century Khmer rock and roll music played in the background. That was a common portrait of her life growing up in the Central Valley town, where she constantly grappled with the question of identity that countless immigrants in this country think about. Her life was nothing similar to her friends in high school — they probably didn’t even know where Cambodia was and definitely didn’t eat rice with their hands. On the flip side, she wasn’t really part of the Americana culture of eating hamburgers and watching TV shows all the time. Nite just focused on school and family, spending most of her time at home with her parents and two brothers (she’s the middle child). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129820\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kuy Teav Phnom Penh\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129820\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kuy Teav Phnom Penh \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129821\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kuy Teav Phnom Penh with noodles displayed.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129821\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kuy Teav Phnom Penh with noodles displayed. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She doesn’t have memories of before Stockton. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nite’s parents dodged land mines, worked in labor camps and managed to flee the horrific genocide during the Khmer Rouge’s reign of terror in Cambodia during the late 1970s. Her parents spent five years in a refugee camp in Thailand where Nite was born. The family was sponsored by a church group in Texas and immigrated to the U.S. before quickly relocating to Stockton because of the large Cambodian expat community there. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nite didn’t fully understand the scope of the genocide or why her parents didn’t open up much about their past until well into her youth. She acknowledges now that they struggled with a form of PTSD and that is a reason that she learned very little about her mysterious homeland of Cambodia until she grew older.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trips back to Cambodia in her early adult years helped Nite better understand her heritage and planted the idea of Nyum Bai in her mind. At first, she spent four years at SF State in the nursing program but knew that wasn’t for her, telling us, “How could I be a nurse if I didn’t care? It was all compounded. Everything that was in the hospital I was so unhappy about, like learning about it was one thing, but actually working in the hospital, wearing scrubs [and] the lighting, the smells and everything, it was like, ‘Get me out of here!’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was on her third trip back to Cambodia, while eating a bowl of soup in a market, that she realized she should start her own food business. Through Nyum Bai, Nite says, she could open up her country by “sharing Cambodia [and] teaching people about Cambodia through the cuisine, but also a way for people to reunite with their roots.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129848\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Take Away Window at Nyum Bai.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129848\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Take Away Window at Nyum Bai. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She had no idea how this was going to actually be a business. She didn’t have any formal culinary training other than cooking extensively with her mom and then on her own at college when she started missing her mom’s recipes. Though she lacked the business plan, she definitely didn’t lack what she describes as “purpose.” Nite set about on her own doing recipe testing and held private dinners at her home. A visit to the 2009 La Cocina Street Food Festival convinced her to reach out to the organization but she didn’t feel ready to truly be an entrepreneur. She incorrectly doubted herself. After all, she even knew that one of her mom’s frequent sayings, “Nyum Bai,” (a Cambodian phrase for “Eat rice” or “Let’s eat!”) should be the name of this future concept. Instead of having a formal interview, Nite was asked to cater a board meeting for La Cocina and that become an informal interview — a “trick” she admits — and Nite joined in 2014. Nyum Bai found a stall in the Emeryville Public Market in early 2017 (now occupied by Minnie Bell’s) and that expansion made the entire Bay Area realize that Cambodian food should be, and thankfully now is, on the map of vital cuisines to sample and learn more about.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emeryville gave her lessons that she badly needed for achieving that grander dream — her own spot. Some of the challenges she encountered and had to get past included “learning how to be a leader, scaling up recipes, sharing my stories and opening up to strangers.” It didn’t take long for the opportunity of a permanent Oakland spot to appear. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129823\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new.jpg\" alt=\"Colorful Nyum Bai interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129823\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Colorful Nyum Bai interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The owner of the Fruitvale, Oakland burgers and craft beers spot, The Half Orange, was connected to La Cocina and informed the organization that he was going to be closing the business. Around the same time, Nite’s yearlong lease for Emeryville was winding down. It was a no-brainer match for Nyum Bai and Fruitvale (though her commute from West Oakland has gone from five minutes to fifteen minutes!). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129831\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nyum Bai interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129831\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nyum Bai interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Half Orange’s narrow space, open kitchen and charming patio area, plus Fruitvale’s diversity and constant energy just felt like Nyum Bai’s right home. The dining room has a striking pink neon and aquatic blue slatted fixture, cheery bursts of white and bright colored paints, and Khmer rock and roll albums on the walls. The outside patio is festive and bustling, feeling like it could be a roadside market with its narrow bench seating, but is also singularly “Oakland” via the neighboring market’s mariachi music and piñatas. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129815\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nyum Bai dinner and lunch menus.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129815\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nyum Bai dinner and lunch menus. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The extensive dinner menu has three sections: starters like grilled beef skewers with a honey and “kroeung” (a Cambodian spice paste) dipping sauce, or taro, pork and glass noodle-filled crispy rolls; a trio of noodles dishes under their own heading; and “With Rice” dishes ranging from crispy catfish topped with green mango salad to the southern Khmer sweet and peppery pork belly stew called “koh.” Weekday lunch is counter-service and an abbreviated menu of noodles, rice plates, snacks and some intriguing salad and sandwich creations (new fried chicken sandwich alert!). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129849\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nyum Bai outdoor eating space.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129849\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nyum Bai outdoor eating space. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fruitvale has been unpredictable in the early going for business because foot traffic can be a challenge (it’s a block removed from the BART station) and there isn’t the natural pull of a built-in residential area. Nite has really enjoyed seeing the mix of travelers going to Cambodia or those who recently visited, the countless adventurous Bay Area diners always on the lookout for learning about global cuisines, and how the region’s Cambodian population has certainly embraced her concept. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nyum Bai is a deeply personal restaurant that reaches back to before Nite was born. You can feel that pain from her country’s past but the joy in the country’s resilience since such unspeakable tragedy. She wanted to provide “a space for the old and the new generation of Cambodians to come together and start healing” and has accomplished that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129830\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai in Oakland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129830\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“If you ever feel like giving up,” Nite says, “just remind yourself why you started the business in the first place.” Words can’t describe what her parents and her homeland went through. At least there is the warmth and beauty of food to connect generations and comfort each other.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://reemscalifornia.com/\">Reem’s\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Reem's+California/@37.7754485,-122.2247451,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x850f93f103291775!8m2!3d37.7754485!4d-122.2247451\">3301 E 12th St #133, Oakland\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://dyafaoakland.com/\">Dyafa\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Dyafa/@37.7936067,-122.2743699,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xe8e7c53f0e32d9ab!8m2!3d37.7936067!4d-122.2743699\">44 Webster St., Oakland\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129869\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new.jpg\" alt=\"#FEELTHEWARMTH at Reem's. Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner wearing her restaurant's t-shirt.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129869\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">#FEELTHEWARMTH at Reem's. Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner wearing her restaurant's t-shirt. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Oakland doesn’t have a Tony Bennett-style flowery ballad nor does it boast iconic and widely photographed pyramids, cable cars and curvy, steep, garden-decorated streets. That’s not Oakland. You don’t leave your heart in The Town; you give your heart to it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129888\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner of Reem’s.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129888\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner of Reem’s.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That has been the case for Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner of Reem’s in Fruitvale and Chef-Partner with Dyafa in Jack London Square, since she moved to Oakland. Growing up in the small Arab community just outside Boston and attending nearby Tufts University, Massachusetts never felt like a place meant for her, for reasons well beyond the predictably harsh winters. Oakland finally felt like “home” with its diversity, its energy and its sense of community. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129866\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new.jpg\" alt=\"Welcome sign at Reem's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129866\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Welcome sign at Reem's. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Reem’s mother is Palestinian and her father is Syrian. The two met after both relocated to Beirut before coming to the United States together. All through her youth, Reem felt like a “stranger in a strange land,” trying to truly figure out her identity. She definitely didn’t think that identity was going to be as a chef — she actually wanted to be an actress and then shifted towards social justice and “trying to change the world” while at Tufts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Reem moved to the Bay Area in 2005 because she “was over Boston” and could crash on her uncle’s couch in Daly City, she ended up working at non-profits and as a community organizer in Oakland for a range of causes and issues from airport labor to urban development policies. It was on a trip in 2010 (just before the Arab Spring) to Lebanon and Syria when the idea for Reem’s was largely created after she absolutely adored the many street corner bakeries in Beirut and Damascus. She was struck not just by how delicious the pastries were, but also how these omnipresent bakeries were sort of like sanctuaries in a city full of constant turmoil — a situation not unlike Oakland, except her new home didn’t have those much-needed communal gathering spots. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129868\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new.jpg\" alt=\"What's a Man'oushe?\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129868\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">What's a Man'oushe? \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129876\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new.jpg\" alt=\"Za'atar Man'oushe.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129876\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Za'atar Man'oushe. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, Reem signed up for baking and pastry classes at Laney College in Oakland, but left after six months to join the well-known, worker-owned Arizmendi Bakery and Pizzeria in Emeryville. After those formative days, there was no doubt where Reem’s career was heading. She was connected to La Cocina in 2014 through the Women’s Initiative Center and initially wanted to have a wood-fired oven attached to a truck à la \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/37826/jon-darskys-del-popolo-pizza-of-the-people\">Del Popolo\u003c/a> to cook her signature item, mana’eesh (puffy pita-like flatbreads). However, she points out that “out of practicality and learning how to run a food business, that concept changed.” Plus, her mom (incorrectly) had doubts about whether Americans would even like mana’eesh. The Reem’s concept pop-ups began first at the Mission Community Market and shortly thereafter she was a mega-hit at several farmers' markets, including the Ferry Building. Her production for the markets and catering was bursting at the seams of La Cocina. She essentially had to go. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129880\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese Man'Oushe with added Veg Mix and Farm Fresh Egg.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese Man'Oushe with added Veg Mix and Farm Fresh Egg. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With fortuitous timing, Reem was connected to a former Chinese fast food restaurant space in busy Fruitvale Village as her production was surging. It was the perfect spot geographically and physically for Reem’s brick-and-mortar debut, complete with plenty of baking and mana'eesh oven space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129883\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil's husband, J behind the front counter at Reem's. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129883\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem's husband, J behind the front counter sporting a shirt that says \"Freedom to STAY, Freedom to MOVE, Freedom to RETURN.\" \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129884\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem's entryway, mural, display case, open kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129884\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem's entryway, mural, display case, open kitchen. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129870\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new.jpg\" alt=\"The dining area at Reem's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129870\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The dining area at Reem's. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bakery/café has become a fixture for a diverse range of customers, heavy on families in the daytime and commuters in the evening. They come together to enjoy Reem’s “unapologetically Arab street food” with “California love.” That means saj wraps (flatbreads cooked on a dome-shaped griddle) and oven-baked mana’eesh topped with anything from za’atar made in Jordan to avocado to falafel to sujuk (a beef sausage) to soft-yolk farm fresh eggs. Guests will also find various baked goods, fattoush, spreads, and handheld “mu’ajinaat” pastries in flavors like lamb, pomegranate and pine nut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129877\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new.jpg\" alt=\"Falafel Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129877\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Falafel Salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129873\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new.jpg\" alt=\"The baking area at Reem's is visible from outside and people can watch baking in action.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129873\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The baking area at Reem's is visible from outside and people can watch baking in action. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129875\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new.jpg\" alt=\"Making Mana'eesh in the open kitchen area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129875\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Making Mana'eesh in the open kitchen area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bakery took years to plan. The second restaurant took weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reem and the chef-restaurateur Daniel Patterson have both long been involved with \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/\">Restaurants Opportunities Center United\u003c/a>, an organization devoted to improving working conditions, wages and diversity in restaurant labor. A few months ago, Patterson informed Reem that his Jack London Square restaurant Haven was going to pivot concepts. She pitched to Patterson the idea of Dyafa, a hipper, more ambitious take on Arab cuisine concept named for “hospitality.” Quickly, Dyafa came to fruition and opened in April 2018, just a month after her son Zain was born. Talk about a busy spring and current summer for Reem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129900\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new.jpg\" alt=\"Dyafa dining area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129900\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dyafa dining area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129902\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new.jpg\" alt=\"Open kitchen at Dyafa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129902\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Open kitchen at Dyafa. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dyafa is very much “of the moment,” part of a nationwide trend of chic and eclectic Middle Eastern fine dining restaurants. At lunch and dinner, diners at Dyafa usually start with an order of those same mezze spreads as at Reem’s, highlighted by a smoky baba ghanoush that is so smoky that you’d swear it has an ounce of mezcal in it. Lunch tends to be more simpler fare, led by saj wraps that might be the “shish tawook” filled with spicy chicken kebab or turmeric-spiced cauliflower, eggplant and feta cheese in the “Steph Curry.” The latter is obviously an Oakland must-order for the name alone. Dinner sports a much more extensive selection of cold mezze and hot mezze, plus large plates like sumac-spiced chicken confit and braised lamb shank with garlic yogurt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129903\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new.jpg\" alt=\"Mezze Sampler at Dyafa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129903\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mezze Sampler at Dyafa. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129904\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new.jpg\" alt=\"Steph Curry saj: turmeric-spiced cauliflower, eggplant, feta, roasted garlic.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129904\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dyafa's Steph Curry saj: turmeric-spiced cauliflower, eggplant, feta, roasted garlic. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The two restaurants reside in two complete opposite worlds view-wise. Dyafa looks at the Oakland Estuary’s leisurely boats and tourist scene, while Reem’s 40-seat dining room and vast patio gazes at the frenetic area around Fruitvale BART. Only Dyafa, though, has a popular bar with excellent Arab-leaning cocktails from Alta Group Beverage Director Aaron Paul that seem to be popular even at noon on a weekday, with witty names to boot like To Yaffa With Love (vodka, cara cara orange, curaçao, Grand Poppy liqueur). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129908\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new.jpg\" alt=\"View of outdoor patio and Oakland Estuary in Jack London Square.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129908\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">View of outdoor patio and Oakland Estuary in Jack London Square. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129901\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new.jpg\" alt=\"Bar at Dyafa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129901\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bar at Dyafa. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129905\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new.jpg\" alt=\"Dyafa's nature design with tree roots dangling from exposed rafters.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129905\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dyafa's nature design with tree roots dangling from exposed rafters. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dyafa also sports a sleek Middle East-meets-California nature design with tree roots dangling from exposed rafters and mosaic tiles on the floor. Reem’s is definitely not trying to be anything hip or lounge-like. Instead, the space is homey and charming as both a meal-gathering place and weekday freelance workforce office. It boasts bright colors (think light green, pink, yellow); Arabic script on the walls including the names of Kickstarter donors; a bakery case, open kitchen and ordering counter; and a mural of Rasmea Odeh and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shooting_of_Oscar_Grant\">Oscar Grant\u003c/a> (the unarmed black man killed at Fruitvale BART in 2009).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129863\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil stands by the mural of Rasmea Odeh and Oscar Grant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129863\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem Assil stands by the mural of Rasmea Odeh and Oscar Grant. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ah, the mural. Much has been written about the controversy of the mural and Eater SF’s Andrew Dalton has a thorough breakdown of the situation last summer when “J., the Jewish News of California,” featured an op-ed denouncing the artwork’s meaning and a \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2017/6/23/15820576/reems-arab-bakery-rasema-odeh-oakland-controversy\">large controversy\u003c/a> emerged. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129874\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1858px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new.jpg\" alt=\"Statement about the mural.\" width=\"1858\" height=\"1239\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129874\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new.jpg 1858w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1858px) 100vw, 1858px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Statement about the mural. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the aftermath, there were death threats, a cascade of threatening Yelp reviews (mostly from non-diners), protesters, a need for Oakland police to be stationed outside, and even a star turn in, of all places, \u003ca href=\"https://www.breitbart.com/california/2017/06/20/oakland-bakery-pays-homage-to-convicted-soon-to-be-deported-palestinian-terrorist-rasmea-odeh/\">Breitbart\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That all was definitely not in the business plan for a place that encourages to \u003cstrong>“#Feelthewarmth”\u003c/strong> and has a vision to “build strong, resilient community” in the power of food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The mural is important to Reem because she sees Odeh, a Palestinian, as a “symbol of unfairness in immigration.” Odeh was convicted in 1969 of being involved in a supermarket bombing that killed two Israeli students in Jerusalem. After a decade in jail, she was freed in a prisoner exchange with the Palestinians and immigrated to the U.S. in the 1990s. She was instrumental in organizing the massive Women’s Marches of January 2017, but, because officials claimed that her conviction from 1969 was never reported to U.S. officials, Odeh was deported back to her homeland of Jordan last fall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reem continually seeks the healthy discussion that the topic badly needs, telling us “a lot of it wasn’t even about the mural. It was the fact that I was Palestinian and Arab.” She admits, “Naturally, that could’ve broken me down and forced me to be quiet, which, at the beginning I was afraid and didn’t know how to maneuver.” However, “the community came through ten times as much than the other side, like ‘we have your back.’ It created an opportunity for me to educate folks about who Rasmea is and why she’s important. And who Oscar Grant is and why the symbol of him on my wall is important.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Race, religion, police actions, the question of Israel and Palestine, immigration — these are of course complex and touchy subjects, no doubt egged on by the current administration as Reem is quick to point out. Regardless of mural opinions, we all can agree that disrespectful Yelp reviews don’t help anything and that Reem’s model of worker fairness and community togetherness is a model that can — and should — defeat religious and political barriers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At La Cocina, Reem realized that, yes, she wanted a small bakery but also be to big picture-minded. Remember “saving the world” at Tufts? She’s working at it. Reem and her peers are already making progress right at home in Fruitvale with a food and drink “ecosystem” between the bakery and neighbors \u003ca href=\"http://www.aleindustries.com/\">Ale Industries\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.redbaycoffee.com/\">Red Bay Coffee\u003c/a> (you can get both at Reem’s). She is hoping to make her own za’atar blend by hiring a group of refugees in the Bay Area to do the work. Who knows what else is on the horizon?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“So much of my restaurants are an homage to Oakland,” Reem acknowledges. Whether you’re dining at Reem’s restaurants in Fruitvale or Jack London Square, you know that you’re at a place trying to lift up its community and you’re very much in Oakland. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"A tour through the menus and remarkable stories of six Bay Area restaurants from five La Cocina kitchen incubator graduates.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1532972453,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":86,"wordCount":7842},"headData":{"title":"Five La Cocina Graduates Who Now Have Brick-and-Mortar Food Businesses | KQED","description":"A tour through the menus and remarkable stories of six Bay Area restaurants from five La Cocina kitchen incubator graduates.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Five La Cocina Graduates Who Now Have Brick-and-Mortar Food Businesses","datePublished":"2018-07-27T13:52:30.000Z","dateModified":"2018-07-30T17:40:53.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"},"authorsData":[{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_129373","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_129373","name":"\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/trevorfelch\">Trevor Felch\u003c/a> (writer), \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/wendy-goodfriend\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a> (photos/video)","isLoading":false}],"imageData":{"ogImageSize":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/la-cocina-5-graduates1a-1020x680.jpg","width":1020,"height":680,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"twImageSize":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/la-cocina-5-graduates1a-1020x680.jpg","width":1020,"height":680,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"twitterCard":"summary_large_image"},"tagData":{"tags":["Besharam","Dyafa","El Huarache Loco","La Cocina","Minnie Bell’s","Nyum Bai","Reem's"]}},"disqusIdentifier":"129373 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=129373","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/07/27/five-la-cocina-graduates-who-now-have-brick-and-mortar-food-businesses/","disqusTitle":"Five La Cocina Graduates Who Now Have Brick-and-Mortar Food Businesses","nprByline":"\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/trevorfelch\">Trevor Felch\u003c/a> (writer), \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/author/wendy-goodfriend\">Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/a> (photos/video)","path":"/bayareabites/129373/five-la-cocina-graduates-who-now-have-brick-and-mortar-food-businesses","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When you step inside the Outer Mission complex that houses the \u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a> food business incubator kitchen and offices on a regular weekday afternoon, it’s easy to be overwhelmed by the busy chefs, the delicious smells of baked goods and roasting meats, and the constant whirl of activity in preparation for the various markets, kiosks and catering events coming up in a few hours. There are spots for eight participants in this kitchen and it definitely seems like a ninth would be impossible to squeeze in. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129706\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new.jpg\" alt=\"In the busy kitchen at La Cocina headquarters.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129706\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8310-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In the busy kitchen at La Cocina headquarters. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The space might be tight but the goals for the nonprofit are admirably enormous. Its mission is to find talented low-income food entrepreneurs, generally women of color and immigrant communities (a handful of men have been in the program, including the very successful \u003ca href=\"http://www.onigilly.com/\">Onigilly\u003c/a> concept). \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.lacocinasf.org/people\">Caleb Zigas\u003c/a>, La Cocina’s Executive Director who has been involved since it debuted in 2005, told us that the incubator’s 11 staff members avoid using words like “teach” or “empower.” These women have already identified a product that they excel at and a worthy price for it — they aren’t starting from scratch concept-wise, but they usually are just cooking for friends or selling from home. Zigas pointed out that, “They know everything there is to know about business. What they may not know is how to formalize that business into a marketplace that intentionally throws up barriers.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129715\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1.jpg\" alt=\"La Cocina's Executive Director Caleb Zigas in the kitchen at La Cocina headquarters.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1588\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129715\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-160x132.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-800x662.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-768x635.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-1020x844.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-1200x993.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-1180x976.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-960x794.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-240x199.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-375x310.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5205-new1-520x430.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Cocina's Executive Director Caleb Zigas in the kitchen at La Cocina headquarters. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>We talked with five of La Cocina’s graduates who now have brick-and-mortar restaurants or kiosks. There were universal problems acknowledged by all where they could never possibly have defeated certain barriers without La Cocina’s assistance — the surging real estate prices, not speaking English well or looking a certain way being chief among them. Even La Cocina itself faces some of these problems for its proposed food hall planned for the heart of the struggling Tenderloin in 2019. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Cocina’s program has three application deadlines a year and information orientations for interested individuals every other month. Once you’re in the program, it can take up to eight years to go through pre-incubation planning, the incubation period, finding capital and space, the exit to that space, and finally “graduation” when the business is self-sufficient. Yes, it can be as brisk as a one-year degree in theory but is much more likely to be a lengthy medical school and residency-type of time frame.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Cocina graduates have had incredible success in a wide variety of cuisines and business types. We talked with women serving Cambodian, Southern, Mexican, Arab and Gujarat (Indian) cooking. The current class includes Nepalese, Jamaican, Japanese and Salvadoran-themed businesses. Over 30 brick-and-mortars from graduates exist around the Bay Area (a handful are commissary kitchens).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those present entrepreneurs in the La Cocina kitchen are following in the esteemed footsteps of women who never thought they would ever call a restaurant their own. Here are the stories of five graduates who are now navigating the Bay Area restaurant scene with their own businesses.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.besharamrestaurant.com/\">Besharam\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Besharam/@37.754276,-122.3916646,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x808f7f0ce31950a5:0x7718a923d0103fe2!8m2!3d37.7542718!4d-122.3894705\">1275 Minnesota St., San Francisco\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129719\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new.jpg\" alt=\"Besharam interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129719\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7175-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Besharam interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Barely 45 diners can fit into the serene, colorful dining room of Besharam, a spunky newcomer located in the Minnesota Street Project art gallery complex, in a far industrial corner of the Dogpatch. Despite the small size and isolated location, Besharam screams with relentless character that can be as boisterous as the heat in the spiced garlic sauce served with the grilled chicken kebab and hand-rolled flatbread at lunch. \u003cstrong>Chef and co-owner Heena Patel\u003c/strong> decided on the name, “shameless” in Hindi, because she knows she’s different than everyone else — in her family, in the Bay Area, in the world — and she isn’t afraid to show that, hey, she’s running the show at a restaurant in San Francisco and never in a million years would she have expected that while growing up as the second of five daughters in the Gujarat state of India.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is bleu cheese naan with wasabi raita on the menu and a giant pop-art mural by \u003ca href=\"https://hatecopy.com/\">HateCopy’s Maria Qamar\u003c/a> next to the open kitchen with a Hindi woman drinking a cocktail. The soundtrack is bumping all lunch and dinner-long with Michael Jackson, Indian pop and seemingly everything in between. It’s definitely Heena’s restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129731\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Chef and Partner Heena Patel in front of pop-art mural by HateCopy’s Maria Qamar\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129731\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4328-new1-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef and Partner Heena Patel in front of pop-art mural by HateCopy’s Maria Qamar. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, there are pavs (sliders, a classic street food) served with little gems and pickled shiitake mushrooms on the menu, co-existing with a grilled zucchini salad and fish moilee with coconut curry and turmeric rice. In the evening, there are shishito peppers stuffed with a tamarind and chickpea filling; edamame dumplings in a lentil broth; paratha tacos accented by a strawberry-mint chutney; and ghee-roasted pork chops. Heema puts her Gujarat-meets-world philosophy about the always hotly debated “authenticity” question very bluntly: “You can take it or leave it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129740\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled Chicken Kabobs: Hand-rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129740\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7312-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grilled Chicken Kabobs: Hand-rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After all, she’s come all the way to this point from Gujarat to London to Marin County to full-time restaurant in San Francisco. She defeated the odds and has earned the right to cook what she wants to cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129737\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new.jpg\" alt=\"Heena Patel rolls dough for flatbread in back kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129737\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7156-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Heena Patel rolls dough for flatbread in back kitchen. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She got a home-science degree from Mumbai University and was given the common “a or b” decision from her father — continue studying and get a master’s degree, or go to London and find a man to marry. She elected for the latter and amidst all the boys who lined up for her, she found her husband, Paresh, after two weeks. When she was 25-years old and Paresh was 30, the couple and their then three-year old daughter moved from London to Marin County on a business visa. The two ran an adjacent liquor store and flower shop in Terra Linda (by San Rafael) for 20 years. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129738\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled Paneer Kabobs: Hand rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129738\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7346-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grilled Paneer Kabobs: Hand rolled flatbread, spiced garlic chutney. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It wasn’t easy upon arriving in California for Heena, being someone who looks differently, speaks differently and didn’t know a word of English at the time. In 1992, Heena would struggle on the phone at the shops, answering calls and unable to communicate clearly, despite her best efforts. On the other end of the line, one particularly disrespectful man screamed at her for her lack of English and to this day gets her worked up emotionally. It was not a welcoming way for her to step into a supposedly welcoming country. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sitting down with La Cocina alums in the past few weeks, we’ve found a theme in how there was a mutual connection that led the chef/entrepreneur to the program. That happened in 2013 for Heena where she self-admittedly had “zero idea of the food business” but “checked off all the boxes” for what La Cocina looks for. Heena really wanted to open a concept for serving her style of traditional and not-so-traditional Gujarati cuisine, and the program helped her craft a 90-page business plan…for the truck. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129742\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new.jpg\" alt=\"Besharam Lunch Menu.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129742\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4297-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Besharam Lunch Menu. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Have you seen that truck around San Francisco? Nope, we didn’t think so, because it never ended up happening. Instead, she started “Rasoi,” a Ferry Building farmers' market vendor concept. Heena also held pop-ups at the likes of Jardinière and State Bird Provisions. At the latter, she served a dessert to chef and co-owner Stuart Brioza, who was beyond thrilled with his first taste, seemingly having a life-altering epiphany. Talk about the ultimate compliment and confidence booster for a shy, upstart cook like Heena.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129746\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new.jpg\" alt=\"A tray of Besharam desserts.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129746\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4379-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A tray of Besharam desserts. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then it all happened so fast with the restaurateur Daniel Patterson after La Cocina connected the two and she was invited to have lunch with him at his restaurant, Alta, in the Minnesota Street Project. Yes, that Daniel Patterson, the chef known for high-end cooking at San Francisco fine dining stalwarts like the now-closed Elisabeth Daniel and Coi. Heena was skeptical and even admitted to us, “I googled him — who is Daniel Patterson?” Recently, Patterson has become instrumental in championing socioeconomic diversity by working with Restaurants Opportunities Center United and helping aspiring restaurateurs, like Heena, defeat the odds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the lunch, Patterson offered the Alta space to Heena. It swept her off her feet. She could cook and do what she does so well, and be helped in what she’s less experienced with. Now, two months since opening, Heena has even more respect for Patterson than before she went into business with him. Simply put — the system of passionate chef, La Cocina education and renowned chef mentor/business system is working.\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/qITc3R1akO0'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/qITc3R1akO0'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>To date, the biggest question from diners for Heena has been, “Where is the chicken tikka masala?”, pigeon-holing the most well-known Indian dish to Americans that isn’t even a traditional Indian dish. (Answer: not at this restaurant). Heena has also been shocked by how savvy her customers are, estimating about 90% have an open mind (and don’t care about the lack of tikka masala) and love her adorably different, somewhat quirky concept. She also is hugely surprised by how many Indian customers just keep coming and coming, often with big groups of non-Indian colleagues and friends. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, it has been quite the journey from Gujarat to the Dogpatch for Heena and Paresh. Their 29-year old daughter is studying for the bar exam and their 21-year old son is an aspiring journalist, studying at Vassar College in New York. Everyone chips in to help at Besharam, whether on the floor or from afar. Both kids help their mom with something that is definitely not one of her biggest strengths: social media. Meanwhile, at the restaurant, Paresh helps with the front-of-house and also assists on the wine and newly-launched cocktail program with Alta Group Beverage Director, Aaron Paul. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Paresh should also get lots of credit for allowing San Francisco to have the privilege of knowing what he’s known for decades — how talented a chef Heena is. Once, when she was doubting if a restaurant would ever happen, he assured her that “what you serve is basic but people are hungry for it.” He was very correct, though bleu cheese naan is definitely not basic. San Francisco was starving for the open-minded style of cooking that Heena brings to the table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129728\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new.jpg\" alt=\"Besharam signage on the front door.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129728\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7293-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Besharam signage on the front door. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.huaracheloco.com/\">El Huarache Loco\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/El+Huarache+Loco/@37.9474025,-122.5116057,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80859a43f733d57f:0xdf3b9d5506983993!8m2!3d37.9473983!4d-122.5094116\">1803 Larkspur Landing Circle, Larkspur\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129756\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new.jpg\" alt=\"Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at El Huarache Loco.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129756\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4594-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at El Huarache Loco. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>No, there are no burritos on the menu at \u003cstrong>Veronica Salazar’s\u003c/strong> restaurant inside Larkspur’s tony Marin Country Mart. Of course, that’s one of the first things a good percentage of her diners notice on an initial visit and ask about. For Salazar, it’s pretty simple why there are no burritos to be found at El Huarache Loco — burritos aren’t really something people eat in Mexico. “Find them at Walmart” is her advice if you want a burrito in Mexico City because they serve them in the frozen food aisle (though she can’t vouch for if they’re delicious at all). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129759\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new.jpg\" alt=\"Huarache Con Costillo\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129759\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7618-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Huarache Con Costillo \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>However, diners will find a thrilling roster of Mexico City street food and home cooking staples at El Huarache Loco, beginning with the namesake huaraches. They are thin-pressed, oval-shaped masa “tortillas” that are often thought of as “sandal-shaped.” If you’re still having trouble, just picture a flattened tamale, minus the banana leaf and with the fillings on top of the masa, and you’re kind of on the right track. The huarache is a platform for all kinds of toppings from ham, bacon and chorizo to tender rib meat (“costilla”) to the must-try nopales salad (cactus!). There is a thin layer of black bean paste between the tortilla and the toppings, then crowning garnishes of a rustic-zesty red salsa, cilantro, onions, cheese and the all-important squiggles of cool crema. Yes, it’s all kind of crazy but really it’s just downright delicious. (The “loco” in the name, by the way, is because it’s a fun word and El Huarache Loco is a common restaurant name in Mexico.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trust us, you’ll be wishing every burrito place served huaraches after your first one from Salazar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129852\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new.jpg\" alt=\"Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at work in the open kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129852\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4517-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Owner/Chef Veronica Salazar at work in the open kitchen. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She has been cooking them each Saturday morning at the Alemany Farmers' Market (the “People’s Market”) since 2006, just a year after joining the La Cocina program. Since coming to the Bay Area in 1995 with her husband, she had been cooking food at home for friends, family and pretty much anyone who wanted a taste of the CDMX (Ciudad de Mexico, the name Mexico City is often referred to in Mexico). Salazar first heard about a kitchen for low-income women from a news story on Univision and was soon in touch with La Cocina thanks to one of her customers. Salazar also was involved with the now-shuttered Women’s Initiative for Self Employment (also known as ALAS), who helped her hatch the all-important business plan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129765\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new.jpg\" alt=\"Quesadilla Chilanga with Huitlacoche\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129765\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7629-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Quesadilla Chilanga with Huitlacoche \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fast-forward to 2012 and Salazar’s popularity at Alemany made her a favorite of critics and diners alike (count this writer as one who visited in the early days and became an enormous fan). A developer in Marin County was looking for a chef to run a Mexican restaurant in their new rustic, high-end shopping complex by the Larkspur Ferry Terminal. Salazar noted to us recently that it was a pretty “ugly, lonely looking place” at first. But, she believed in it. The commute wouldn’t be so bad (after all, from her home in San Francisco, it takes just as long to get to La Cocina as it does to drive to Larkspur) and the crowds would come just like at Alemany.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129762\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fish taco\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129762\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7632-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fish taco \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The risk clearly worked as El Huarache Loco became the first restaurant opened by a La Cocina alum. Salazar pays homage to her La Cocina roots with a 2011 picture of her in the incubator’s kitchen with three fellow chefs, all of whom have successful full-time concepts today. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129767\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new.jpg\" alt=\"Inside El Huarache Loco with 2011 photo of her in La Cocina incubator’s kitchen on the wall.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129767\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7552-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Inside El Huarache Loco with 2011 photo of her in La Cocina incubator’s kitchen on the wall. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Around the restaurant, she also has many distinct nods to her Mexico City home and her family — a family that has run a restaurant, Caldos Rivera, for more than 60 years in the heart of the chaotic city. Salazar told us that as a woman in Mexico, “To live, you have to learn how to cook.” These dishes have been with her forever. Beyond huaraches, the menu in Larkspur includes “antojitos” (CDMX specials and appetizers), like a delicate, curled huitlacoche-filled (dark black corn fungus) quesadilla that is nothing like the greasy, cheesy, flat Tex-Mex quesadillas you’ve surely tried. There are other unfamiliar names to most Bay Area diners like pambazos, sopes, gorditas and tostadas. Breakfast features huevos rancheros and chilaquiles. There are also more familiar tacos in myriad formats and fillings, along with daily specials and enchiladas that are again not recognizable to most diners in the audience. Salazar honors her mother in the chop-like house “Doña Luz” salad with a smorgasbord of great ingredients because her mother was so great at tying together surplus ingredients into a salad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129760\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ensalada Doña Luz\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129760\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7622-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ensalada Doña Luz \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salazar doesn’t cut any corners. She makes her own masa for the tortillas; fantastic and not-too-sweet agua frescas are housemade; and the guacamole is prepared from scratch, along with a half-dozen types of salsa. She has had to adapt a bit for the Marin audience. Remember, while there are lots of adventurous diners ready to eat anything, anywhere — there are also plenty of soccer moms and rushed ferry commuters stopping by. So, tripe-filled menudo quickly left the menu. There is no tongue amongst the taco meats. There is, however, alphabet soup on the kid’s menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129764\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new.jpg\" alt=\"Agua frescas are housemade: jimica (hibiscus), pineapple and watermelon.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129764\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7649-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Agua frescas are housemade: jimica (hibiscus), pineapple and watermelon. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Salazar has found a home in a place that is about as far a 180-degree spin from hectic Mexico City as you can get. Inside El Huacache Loco, there are giant handmade rancho-style chairs and lots of the customary singing and dancing skeletons from Dia de los Muertos celebrations that you might find in her home city. Then walk outside and you’ll see a pond with koi and turtles, lots of relaxed locals who just left yoga class, and you’ll certainly notice how the exterior of El Huarache Loco is the same as everything else in the charming shopping area (freshly painted, chic farmhouse-looking). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129766\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new.jpg\" alt=\"El Huarache Loco outside eating area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129766\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7578-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">El Huarache Loco outside eating area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In bucolic Marin, Salazar is still trying to defeat the naysayers who claim that this isn’t “real Mexican food.” Quite simply, anyone can think what they want to think, but we know that they’re wrong. Salazar definitely knows that they’re wrong because she is one of the Bay Area’s great ambassadors of the cuisine from one of the world’s grandest and most culturally enriching cities. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.minniebellssoul.com/\">Minnie Bell’s Soul Food Movement\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Public+Market/@37.8412911,-122.2938373,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x68a7c0c0b72fc684!8m2!3d37.8412911!4d-122.2938373\">5959 Shellmound St., Emeryville\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129780\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fernay McPherson, the Chef-Owner of Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129780\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4696-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fernay McPherson, the Chef-Owner of Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“Excuse me! I hate to interrupt, but may I just say that she makes THE best fried chicken I have ever had.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few seconds later, both the glowing customer and Fernay McPherson, the Chef-Owner of Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement, lightheartedly assure this food writer that this moment wasn’t staged for our interview. He genuinely feels that this crispy, succulent, rosemary-flecked plate of fried chicken was the greatest that he had ever encountered, even surpassing his longtime prior gold standard — of course, his own recipe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129784\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1.jpg\" alt=\"Millie Bell's Rosemary Fried Chicken and Cornbread.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129784\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7718-new-1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Millie Bell's Rosemary Fried Chicken and Cornbread. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As an hour goes by with McPherson, nobody else stops the interview other than a coworker asking a fryer question or her 13-year old son, Eric, stopping by because his summer job right now is working for his mom’s Emeryville Public Market kiosk four-days-a-week (Eric’s mom informs us that his favorite part of the job is counting the hours he’s worked and charging those hours). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129797\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fernay McPherson, fellow employee and Fernay's son Eric (R) working at the Minnie Bell's kiosk.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129797\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4690-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fernay McPherson, fellow employee and Fernay's son Eric (R) working at the Minnie Bell's kiosk. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But, once McPherson is back at her post in the tiny Minnie Bell’s space, roving between the cash register, the two fryers, the refrigerator full of Kool-Aid (a LOT of freshly-mixed, not exactly all-natural Kool-Aid), and the back’s prep areas, she’s receiving constant praise from happy customers of all ages and backgrounds. Maybe it’s the fact that the kiosk is in an isolated corner of a Public Market with constant construction? Maybe it’s McPherson’s ever-present upbeat charm? Maybe it’s because they’re all drinking the Minnie Bell’s Kool-Aid? Maybe…it’s the rosemary?\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129793\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new.jpg\" alt=\"A sprig of fried rosemary accompanies the Rosemary Fried Chicken.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129793\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4707-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sprig of fried rosemary accompanies the Rosemary Fried Chicken. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Yes, the rosemary fried chicken. It’s everything that a legendary fried chicken should be with a crunchy, ready-to-shatter crust that is gleefully free of grease, and meat that is as juicy as a ripe summer peach, whether you’re munching on drumstick, wing, breast or thigh. Rosemary has been the recipe’s staple since her early adult cooking days when she had rosemary on hand and sampled with it. Her recipe has no seasoning nor any buttermilk or a second dredging of batter. McPherson’s key move is to give the chicken a rosemary-hot sauce marinade for 24 hours or more. Then she fries the chicken and rosemary in clean oil (the kiosk closes between lunch and dinner for a labor-intensive oil switch-out). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129801\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new.jpg\" alt=\"The kiosk closes between lunch and dinner for a labor-intensive oil switch-out.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129801\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7769-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The kiosk closes between lunch and dinner for a labor-intensive oil switch-out. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With all of this chicken talk, Minnie Bell’s is by no means a one-hit wonder. The menu sticks to roughly a half-dozen supporting cast members, all of whom are vegetarian (no bacon, no lard). Well, the three-cheese mac & cheese with Parmesan, fontina and cheddar isn’t exactly a light selection, nor is the sweeter, fluffier-style of cornbread that McPherson makes with lots of brown butter. However, the smoky vegan red rice and beans and the red chili-accented braised greens are miles ahead of their peers in flavor complexity and a clean brightness that is never associated with them. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129782\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new.jpg\" alt=\"Three-cheese Mac & Cheese with Parmesan.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129782\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7732-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Three-cheese Mac & Cheese with Parmesan. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129804\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new.jpg\" alt=\"Braised Greens.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129804\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7713-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Braised Greens. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129783\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new.jpg\" alt=\"Red Beans & Rice Salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129783\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7733-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Red Beans & Rice Salad. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>McPherson’s family is originally from New Mexico and Texas, and came to California as part of the mid-century Great Migration, a period when the Fillmore was booming as the “Harlem of the West.” A generation later, McPherson has called the Fillmore “home” for all but a couple years when she attended cooking school in Sacramento. Sadly, she has witnessed that neighborhood boom steadily fade. She’s hoping that one day Minnie Bell’s can play a part in bringing back that vibrant heyday for the corridor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129789\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new.jpg\" alt=\"McPherson has called the Fillmore “home” and that is reflected on the back of Minnie Bell's T-shirts which say "EST. IN FILLMOE."\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129789\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4678-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">McPherson has called the Fillmore “home” and that is reflected on the back of Minnie Bell's T-shirts which say \"EST. IN FILLMOE.\" \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At first, her role in the kitchen for the family was to grate cheese for mac ‘n’ cheese, an activity that she admittedly “dreaded.” The first recipe she had to master was a Betty Crocker Dinette Cake. She gradually learned how to cook her family’s soul food recipes from her late grandmother Lillie Bell and her great aunt Minnie (now 85 years old). Their impact on her personal and professional life years later are why both are the namesakes of Minnie Bell’s and, frankly, why she was compelled to become a chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129781\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new.jpg\" alt=\"Fernay McPherson's late grandmother Lillie Bell (R) and her great aunt Minnie (now 85 years old)\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129781\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4662-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fernay McPherson's late grandmother Lillie Bell (R) and her great aunt Minnie (now 85 years old) \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The concept launched as a mobile catering company, hence the Soul “Movement.” She joined La Cocina in 2011 and participated in the Fillmore Mobile Food Vendor and Artisan Marketplace program, a small business course that La Cocina taught with Urban Solutions, a nonprofit economic development organization. “Small businesses are what make the world go around,” McPherson tells us. Sadly, seven years later, the city is still “sleeping on the fact that we’re small businesses.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During her time with La Cocina, Minnie Bell’s became increasingly in demand for catering and pop-ups, with the most notable of the latter being a substantial run at Wing Wings in the Lower Haight. Still, the permanent restaurant just wouldn’t come, but luckily a yearlong lease in the Emeryville Public Market emerged after fellow La Cocina alum Nyum Bai left.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129812\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new.jpg\" alt=\""Nourish The Public + Nourish Yourself" signage at The Emeryville Public Market next to Minnie Bell's kiosk.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129812\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4674-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"Nourish The Public + Nourish Yourself\" signage at The Emeryville Public Market next to Minnie Bell's kiosk. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Fillmore is having huge dining growth, started by the blockbuster State Bird Provisions, and recently followed by the likes of \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/126767/avery-opens-on-fillmore-as-sfs-next-elaborate-tasting-menu-destination\">Avery\u003c/a>, Wise Sons and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/128414/merchant-roots-daytime-grocer-and-imaginative-nighttime-tasting-menu-table-arrives-on-fillmore\">Merchant Roots\u003c/a>. All are delicious and small (ish) businesses — and all are not black-owned. For McPherson, the scene on Fillmore is “bittersweet” because these are very worthy and considerate additions to the neighborhood, but “it’s a mystery” to her and “an eyesore for the community” how there are still so many prominently vacant storefronts in the corridor. Real estate developers keep holding out for someone to pay bigger and bigger bucks. It’s about the money. It’s all about the money. In the meantime, the potentially vibrant culture and significant foot traffic is kept away, other than the nightly State Bird Provisions line.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soon, McPherson will get her permanent restaurant because she is an immensely gifted chef with the fervently devoted following that she deserves like that raving diner who paused our interview. Those fans will follow Minnie Bell’s wherever its movement goes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129792\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new.jpg\" alt=\"Signage for Minnie Bell's Soul Movement.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129792\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4663-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Signage for Minnie Bell's Soul Movement. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nyumbai.com/\">Nyum Bai\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Nyum+Bai/@37.7763222,-122.224679,15z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x0:0xc85f72f420fd5355?sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjX94G4g63cAhVD7VQKHe60B8UQ_BIItAEwDQ\">3340 E 12th St., Oakland Suite 11\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Taste the steamed fish soufflé called “amok” and dip some exquisitely trimmed cucumbers into “prahok,” a homey and spicy ground pork dip, and you’ll simultaneously experience profound beauty and pain through a cuisine’s powerful story. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129834\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new.jpg\" alt=\"Prahok Ktiss\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129834\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7994-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Prahok Ktiss \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There is so much joy in Cambodian cooking, whether starting with a banana blossom, cabbage and sweet basil “ngoum banana salad” or digging into the slightly sweet, profoundly earthy and balanced “kuy teav Phnom Penh” noodles in a seven-hour pork broth that tastes much more like a complex craft cocktail at Trick Dog than the rugged tonkotsu ramen broth you would be expecting. Along with the food, there is tremendous beauty in the stunning natural setting and rich culture of Cambodia, one that is not very well known to the Bay Area audience. As Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Oakland’s five-month old restaurant, Nyum Bai, unfortunately points out — everyone seems to know about Angkor Wat’s temples and the genocide, and that’s about it for Cambodia. She’s trying to change that one guest at a time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129825\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai making Ngoum Banana Salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129825\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7823-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai making Ngoum Banana Salad. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129841\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad.jpg\" alt=\"Nite Yun in Nyum Bai kitchen carrying finished Ngoum Banana Salad.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1077\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129841\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-800x449.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-768x431.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-1020x572.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-1200x673.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-1180x662.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-960x539.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-240x135.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-375x210.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/nite-bai-salad-520x292.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite Yun in Nyum Bai kitchen carrying finished Ngoum Banana Salad. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129829\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new.jpg\" alt=\"Ngoum Banana Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129829\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7844-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ngoum Banana Salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Nite’s earliest memories from her youth are eating rice with her hands on the floor of her family’s apartment in Stockton while mid-century Khmer rock and roll music played in the background. That was a common portrait of her life growing up in the Central Valley town, where she constantly grappled with the question of identity that countless immigrants in this country think about. Her life was nothing similar to her friends in high school — they probably didn’t even know where Cambodia was and definitely didn’t eat rice with their hands. On the flip side, she wasn’t really part of the Americana culture of eating hamburgers and watching TV shows all the time. Nite just focused on school and family, spending most of her time at home with her parents and two brothers (she’s the middle child). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129820\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kuy Teav Phnom Penh\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129820\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4938-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kuy Teav Phnom Penh \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129821\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new.jpg\" alt=\"Kuy Teav Phnom Penh with noodles displayed.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129821\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4946-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kuy Teav Phnom Penh with noodles displayed. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She doesn’t have memories of before Stockton. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nite’s parents dodged land mines, worked in labor camps and managed to flee the horrific genocide during the Khmer Rouge’s reign of terror in Cambodia during the late 1970s. Her parents spent five years in a refugee camp in Thailand where Nite was born. The family was sponsored by a church group in Texas and immigrated to the U.S. before quickly relocating to Stockton because of the large Cambodian expat community there. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nite didn’t fully understand the scope of the genocide or why her parents didn’t open up much about their past until well into her youth. She acknowledges now that they struggled with a form of PTSD and that is a reason that she learned very little about her mysterious homeland of Cambodia until she grew older.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trips back to Cambodia in her early adult years helped Nite better understand her heritage and planted the idea of Nyum Bai in her mind. At first, she spent four years at SF State in the nursing program but knew that wasn’t for her, telling us, “How could I be a nurse if I didn’t care? It was all compounded. Everything that was in the hospital I was so unhappy about, like learning about it was one thing, but actually working in the hospital, wearing scrubs [and] the lighting, the smells and everything, it was like, ‘Get me out of here!’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was on her third trip back to Cambodia, while eating a bowl of soup in a market, that she realized she should start her own food business. Through Nyum Bai, Nite says, she could open up her country by “sharing Cambodia [and] teaching people about Cambodia through the cuisine, but also a way for people to reunite with their roots.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129848\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Take Away Window at Nyum Bai.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129848\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4899-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Take Away Window at Nyum Bai. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>She had no idea how this was going to actually be a business. She didn’t have any formal culinary training other than cooking extensively with her mom and then on her own at college when she started missing her mom’s recipes. Though she lacked the business plan, she definitely didn’t lack what she describes as “purpose.” Nite set about on her own doing recipe testing and held private dinners at her home. A visit to the 2009 La Cocina Street Food Festival convinced her to reach out to the organization but she didn’t feel ready to truly be an entrepreneur. She incorrectly doubted herself. After all, she even knew that one of her mom’s frequent sayings, “Nyum Bai,” (a Cambodian phrase for “Eat rice” or “Let’s eat!”) should be the name of this future concept. Instead of having a formal interview, Nite was asked to cater a board meeting for La Cocina and that become an informal interview — a “trick” she admits — and Nite joined in 2014. Nyum Bai found a stall in the Emeryville Public Market in early 2017 (now occupied by Minnie Bell’s) and that expansion made the entire Bay Area realize that Cambodian food should be, and thankfully now is, on the map of vital cuisines to sample and learn more about.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emeryville gave her lessons that she badly needed for achieving that grander dream — her own spot. Some of the challenges she encountered and had to get past included “learning how to be a leader, scaling up recipes, sharing my stories and opening up to strangers.” It didn’t take long for the opportunity of a permanent Oakland spot to appear. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129823\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new.jpg\" alt=\"Colorful Nyum Bai interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129823\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7804-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Colorful Nyum Bai interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The owner of the Fruitvale, Oakland burgers and craft beers spot, The Half Orange, was connected to La Cocina and informed the organization that he was going to be closing the business. Around the same time, Nite’s yearlong lease for Emeryville was winding down. It was a no-brainer match for Nyum Bai and Fruitvale (though her commute from West Oakland has gone from five minutes to fifteen minutes!). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129831\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nyum Bai interior.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129831\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7973-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nyum Bai interior. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The Half Orange’s narrow space, open kitchen and charming patio area, plus Fruitvale’s diversity and constant energy just felt like Nyum Bai’s right home. The dining room has a striking pink neon and aquatic blue slatted fixture, cheery bursts of white and bright colored paints, and Khmer rock and roll albums on the walls. The outside patio is festive and bustling, feeling like it could be a roadside market with its narrow bench seating, but is also singularly “Oakland” via the neighboring market’s mariachi music and piñatas. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129815\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nyum Bai dinner and lunch menus.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129815\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4901-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nyum Bai dinner and lunch menus. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The extensive dinner menu has three sections: starters like grilled beef skewers with a honey and “kroeung” (a Cambodian spice paste) dipping sauce, or taro, pork and glass noodle-filled crispy rolls; a trio of noodles dishes under their own heading; and “With Rice” dishes ranging from crispy catfish topped with green mango salad to the southern Khmer sweet and peppery pork belly stew called “koh.” Weekday lunch is counter-service and an abbreviated menu of noodles, rice plates, snacks and some intriguing salad and sandwich creations (new fried chicken sandwich alert!). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129849\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nyum Bai outdoor eating space.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129849\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_4902-new-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nyum Bai outdoor eating space. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fruitvale has been unpredictable in the early going for business because foot traffic can be a challenge (it’s a block removed from the BART station) and there isn’t the natural pull of a built-in residential area. Nite has really enjoyed seeing the mix of travelers going to Cambodia or those who recently visited, the countless adventurous Bay Area diners always on the lookout for learning about global cuisines, and how the region’s Cambodian population has certainly embraced her concept. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nyum Bai is a deeply personal restaurant that reaches back to before Nite was born. You can feel that pain from her country’s past but the joy in the country’s resilience since such unspeakable tragedy. She wanted to provide “a space for the old and the new generation of Cambodians to come together and start healing” and has accomplished that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129830\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new.jpg\" alt=\"Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai in Oakland.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129830\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_7960-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nite Yun, the chef-owner of Nyum Bai in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“If you ever feel like giving up,” Nite says, “just remind yourself why you started the business in the first place.” Words can’t describe what her parents and her homeland went through. At least there is the warmth and beauty of food to connect generations and comfort each other.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://reemscalifornia.com/\">Reem’s\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Reem's+California/@37.7754485,-122.2247451,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x850f93f103291775!8m2!3d37.7754485!4d-122.2247451\">3301 E 12th St #133, Oakland\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://dyafaoakland.com/\">Dyafa\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/maps/place/Dyafa/@37.7936067,-122.2743699,15z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0xe8e7c53f0e32d9ab!8m2!3d37.7936067!4d-122.2743699\">44 Webster St., Oakland\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129869\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new.jpg\" alt=\"#FEELTHEWARMTH at Reem's. Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner wearing her restaurant's t-shirt.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129869\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8025-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">#FEELTHEWARMTH at Reem's. Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner wearing her restaurant's t-shirt. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Oakland doesn’t have a Tony Bennett-style flowery ballad nor does it boast iconic and widely photographed pyramids, cable cars and curvy, steep, garden-decorated streets. That’s not Oakland. You don’t leave your heart in The Town; you give your heart to it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129888\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner of Reem’s.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129888\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5027-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner of Reem’s.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That has been the case for Reem Assil, the Chef-Owner of Reem’s in Fruitvale and Chef-Partner with Dyafa in Jack London Square, since she moved to Oakland. Growing up in the small Arab community just outside Boston and attending nearby Tufts University, Massachusetts never felt like a place meant for her, for reasons well beyond the predictably harsh winters. Oakland finally felt like “home” with its diversity, its energy and its sense of community. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129866\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new.jpg\" alt=\"Welcome sign at Reem's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129866\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8013-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Welcome sign at Reem's. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Reem’s mother is Palestinian and her father is Syrian. The two met after both relocated to Beirut before coming to the United States together. All through her youth, Reem felt like a “stranger in a strange land,” trying to truly figure out her identity. She definitely didn’t think that identity was going to be as a chef — she actually wanted to be an actress and then shifted towards social justice and “trying to change the world” while at Tufts. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Reem moved to the Bay Area in 2005 because she “was over Boston” and could crash on her uncle’s couch in Daly City, she ended up working at non-profits and as a community organizer in Oakland for a range of causes and issues from airport labor to urban development policies. It was on a trip in 2010 (just before the Arab Spring) to Lebanon and Syria when the idea for Reem’s was largely created after she absolutely adored the many street corner bakeries in Beirut and Damascus. She was struck not just by how delicious the pastries were, but also how these omnipresent bakeries were sort of like sanctuaries in a city full of constant turmoil — a situation not unlike Oakland, except her new home didn’t have those much-needed communal gathering spots. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129868\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new.jpg\" alt=\"What's a Man'oushe?\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129868\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8022-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">What's a Man'oushe? \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129876\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new.jpg\" alt=\"Za'atar Man'oushe.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129876\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8111-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Za'atar Man'oushe. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So, Reem signed up for baking and pastry classes at Laney College in Oakland, but left after six months to join the well-known, worker-owned Arizmendi Bakery and Pizzeria in Emeryville. After those formative days, there was no doubt where Reem’s career was heading. She was connected to La Cocina in 2014 through the Women’s Initiative Center and initially wanted to have a wood-fired oven attached to a truck à la \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/37826/jon-darskys-del-popolo-pizza-of-the-people\">Del Popolo\u003c/a> to cook her signature item, mana’eesh (puffy pita-like flatbreads). However, she points out that “out of practicality and learning how to run a food business, that concept changed.” Plus, her mom (incorrectly) had doubts about whether Americans would even like mana’eesh. The Reem’s concept pop-ups began first at the Mission Community Market and shortly thereafter she was a mega-hit at several farmers' markets, including the Ferry Building. Her production for the markets and catering was bursting at the seams of La Cocina. She essentially had to go. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129880\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cheese Man'Oushe with added Veg Mix and Farm Fresh Egg.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129880\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8167-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cheese Man'Oushe with added Veg Mix and Farm Fresh Egg. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With fortuitous timing, Reem was connected to a former Chinese fast food restaurant space in busy Fruitvale Village as her production was surging. It was the perfect spot geographically and physically for Reem’s brick-and-mortar debut, complete with plenty of baking and mana'eesh oven space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129883\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil's husband, J behind the front counter at Reem's. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129883\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8198-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem's husband, J behind the front counter sporting a shirt that says \"Freedom to STAY, Freedom to MOVE, Freedom to RETURN.\" \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129884\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem's entryway, mural, display case, open kitchen.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129884\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8201-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem's entryway, mural, display case, open kitchen. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129870\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new.jpg\" alt=\"The dining area at Reem's.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129870\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8029-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The dining area at Reem's. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bakery/café has become a fixture for a diverse range of customers, heavy on families in the daytime and commuters in the evening. They come together to enjoy Reem’s “unapologetically Arab street food” with “California love.” That means saj wraps (flatbreads cooked on a dome-shaped griddle) and oven-baked mana’eesh topped with anything from za’atar made in Jordan to avocado to falafel to sujuk (a beef sausage) to soft-yolk farm fresh eggs. Guests will also find various baked goods, fattoush, spreads, and handheld “mu’ajinaat” pastries in flavors like lamb, pomegranate and pine nut.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129877\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new.jpg\" alt=\"Falafel Salad\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129877\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8138-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Falafel Salad \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129873\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new.jpg\" alt=\"The baking area at Reem's is visible from outside and people can watch baking in action.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129873\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8041-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The baking area at Reem's is visible from outside and people can watch baking in action. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129875\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new.jpg\" alt=\"Making Mana'eesh in the open kitchen area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129875\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8069-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Making Mana'eesh in the open kitchen area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The bakery took years to plan. The second restaurant took weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reem and the chef-restaurateur Daniel Patterson have both long been involved with \u003ca href=\"http://rocunited.org/\">Restaurants Opportunities Center United\u003c/a>, an organization devoted to improving working conditions, wages and diversity in restaurant labor. A few months ago, Patterson informed Reem that his Jack London Square restaurant Haven was going to pivot concepts. She pitched to Patterson the idea of Dyafa, a hipper, more ambitious take on Arab cuisine concept named for “hospitality.” Quickly, Dyafa came to fruition and opened in April 2018, just a month after her son Zain was born. Talk about a busy spring and current summer for Reem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129900\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new.jpg\" alt=\"Dyafa dining area.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129900\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8238-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dyafa dining area. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129902\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new.jpg\" alt=\"Open kitchen at Dyafa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129902\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8252-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Open kitchen at Dyafa. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dyafa is very much “of the moment,” part of a nationwide trend of chic and eclectic Middle Eastern fine dining restaurants. At lunch and dinner, diners at Dyafa usually start with an order of those same mezze spreads as at Reem’s, highlighted by a smoky baba ghanoush that is so smoky that you’d swear it has an ounce of mezcal in it. Lunch tends to be more simpler fare, led by saj wraps that might be the “shish tawook” filled with spicy chicken kebab or turmeric-spiced cauliflower, eggplant and feta cheese in the “Steph Curry.” The latter is obviously an Oakland must-order for the name alone. Dinner sports a much more extensive selection of cold mezze and hot mezze, plus large plates like sumac-spiced chicken confit and braised lamb shank with garlic yogurt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129903\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new.jpg\" alt=\"Mezze Sampler at Dyafa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129903\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8268-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mezze Sampler at Dyafa. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129904\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new.jpg\" alt=\"Steph Curry saj: turmeric-spiced cauliflower, eggplant, feta, roasted garlic.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129904\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8279-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dyafa's Steph Curry saj: turmeric-spiced cauliflower, eggplant, feta, roasted garlic. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The two restaurants reside in two complete opposite worlds view-wise. Dyafa looks at the Oakland Estuary’s leisurely boats and tourist scene, while Reem’s 40-seat dining room and vast patio gazes at the frenetic area around Fruitvale BART. Only Dyafa, though, has a popular bar with excellent Arab-leaning cocktails from Alta Group Beverage Director Aaron Paul that seem to be popular even at noon on a weekday, with witty names to boot like To Yaffa With Love (vodka, cara cara orange, curaçao, Grand Poppy liqueur). \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129908\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new.jpg\" alt=\"View of outdoor patio and Oakland Estuary in Jack London Square.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129908\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8259-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">View of outdoor patio and Oakland Estuary in Jack London Square. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129901\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new.jpg\" alt=\"Bar at Dyafa.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129901\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8240-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bar at Dyafa. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129905\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new.jpg\" alt=\"Dyafa's nature design with tree roots dangling from exposed rafters.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129905\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5060-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dyafa's nature design with tree roots dangling from exposed rafters. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Dyafa also sports a sleek Middle East-meets-California nature design with tree roots dangling from exposed rafters and mosaic tiles on the floor. Reem’s is definitely not trying to be anything hip or lounge-like. Instead, the space is homey and charming as both a meal-gathering place and weekday freelance workforce office. It boasts bright colors (think light green, pink, yellow); Arabic script on the walls including the names of Kickstarter donors; a bakery case, open kitchen and ordering counter; and a mural of Rasmea Odeh and \u003ca href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shooting_of_Oscar_Grant\">Oscar Grant\u003c/a> (the unarmed black man killed at Fruitvale BART in 2009).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129863\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new.jpg\" alt=\"Reem Assil stands by the mural of Rasmea Odeh and Oscar Grant.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129863\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_5021-new-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Reem Assil stands by the mural of Rasmea Odeh and Oscar Grant. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Ah, the mural. Much has been written about the controversy of the mural and Eater SF’s Andrew Dalton has a thorough breakdown of the situation last summer when “J., the Jewish News of California,” featured an op-ed denouncing the artwork’s meaning and a \u003ca href=\"https://sf.eater.com/2017/6/23/15820576/reems-arab-bakery-rasema-odeh-oakland-controversy\">large controversy\u003c/a> emerged. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_129874\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1858px\">\u003cimg src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new.jpg\" alt=\"Statement about the mural.\" width=\"1858\" height=\"1239\" class=\"size-full wp-image-129874\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new.jpg 1858w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-1200x800.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2018/07/IMG_8062-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1858px) 100vw, 1858px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Statement about the mural. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In the aftermath, there were death threats, a cascade of threatening Yelp reviews (mostly from non-diners), protesters, a need for Oakland police to be stationed outside, and even a star turn in, of all places, \u003ca href=\"https://www.breitbart.com/california/2017/06/20/oakland-bakery-pays-homage-to-convicted-soon-to-be-deported-palestinian-terrorist-rasmea-odeh/\">Breitbart\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That all was definitely not in the business plan for a place that encourages to \u003cstrong>“#Feelthewarmth”\u003c/strong> and has a vision to “build strong, resilient community” in the power of food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The mural is important to Reem because she sees Odeh, a Palestinian, as a “symbol of unfairness in immigration.” Odeh was convicted in 1969 of being involved in a supermarket bombing that killed two Israeli students in Jerusalem. After a decade in jail, she was freed in a prisoner exchange with the Palestinians and immigrated to the U.S. in the 1990s. She was instrumental in organizing the massive Women’s Marches of January 2017, but, because officials claimed that her conviction from 1969 was never reported to U.S. officials, Odeh was deported back to her homeland of Jordan last fall. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reem continually seeks the healthy discussion that the topic badly needs, telling us “a lot of it wasn’t even about the mural. It was the fact that I was Palestinian and Arab.” She admits, “Naturally, that could’ve broken me down and forced me to be quiet, which, at the beginning I was afraid and didn’t know how to maneuver.” However, “the community came through ten times as much than the other side, like ‘we have your back.’ It created an opportunity for me to educate folks about who Rasmea is and why she’s important. And who Oscar Grant is and why the symbol of him on my wall is important.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Race, religion, police actions, the question of Israel and Palestine, immigration — these are of course complex and touchy subjects, no doubt egged on by the current administration as Reem is quick to point out. Regardless of mural opinions, we all can agree that disrespectful Yelp reviews don’t help anything and that Reem’s model of worker fairness and community togetherness is a model that can — and should — defeat religious and political barriers. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At La Cocina, Reem realized that, yes, she wanted a small bakery but also be to big picture-minded. Remember “saving the world” at Tufts? She’s working at it. Reem and her peers are already making progress right at home in Fruitvale with a food and drink “ecosystem” between the bakery and neighbors \u003ca href=\"http://www.aleindustries.com/\">Ale Industries\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://www.redbaycoffee.com/\">Red Bay Coffee\u003c/a> (you can get both at Reem’s). She is hoping to make her own za’atar blend by hiring a group of refugees in the Bay Area to do the work. Who knows what else is on the horizon?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“So much of my restaurants are an homage to Oakland,” Reem acknowledges. Whether you’re dining at Reem’s restaurants in Fruitvale or Jack London Square, you know that you’re at a place trying to lift up its community and you’re very much in Oakland. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/129373/five-la-cocina-graduates-who-now-have-brick-and-mortar-food-businesses","authors":["byline_bayareabites_129373"],"series":["bayareabites_16196"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_13746","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_15155","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_358"],"tags":["bayareabites_16211","bayareabites_16212","bayareabites_9845","bayareabites_295","bayareabites_16213","bayareabites_15743","bayareabites_15551"],"featImg":"bayareabites_129917","label":"bayareabites_16196","isLoading":false,"hasAllInfo":true}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? 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