Farmers' Markets Are Good for Communities ... Right?
The Future of Sustainable Food: Q&A with Wendell Berry
Sustainable Spirits: Liquor for the Locavore
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Right?","publishDate":1411480805,"format":"standard","headTitle":"QUEST | KQED Science","labelTerm":{"site":"quest"},"content":"\u003cp>Farmers’ markets practically glow with wholesome virtue: Shop here, they promise, and you can help build a sustainable, healthy food system!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But without the data to buttress those claims, it’s hard to know whether farmers’ markets are actually meeting those goals or how they can adapt to better meet their communities’ needs. Alfonso Morales, a professor of urban planning at the University of Wisconsin-Madison, wants to help change that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fueled by an \u003ca href=\"http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/getfile?dDocName=STELPRDC5105706\">increasing interest\u003c/a> in local food, the number of farmers’ markets in the United States has \u003ca href=\"http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/ams.fetchTemplateData.do?template=TemplateS&navID=WholesaleandFarmersMarkets&leftNav=WholesaleandFarmersMarkets&page=WFMFarmersMarketGrowth&description=Farmers%20Market%20Growth&acct=frmrdirmkt\">more than doubled\u003c/a> in the last decade. This rise in popularity has been accompanied by the implicit assumption that farmers’ markets are more sustainable than their fluorescent-lit, big-box counterparts. Their environmental advantages, advocates say, are clear. Food is transported shorter distances, which results in lower fossil fuel consumption. Farmers’ markets offer more diverse crops grown by more eco-friendly methods. Broaden the definition of sustainability to include social, health, and economic factors, and you’ll encounter claims that farmers’ markets promote healthy eating and a pedestrian culture, bring fresh produce to underserved neighborhoods, foster entrepreneurship and a diversified agricultural economy, and create a social space that builds a sense of community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72031\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2014/08/V3N0212_a1-e1411160441534.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-72031 size-full\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2014/08/V3N0212_a1-e1411160441534.jpg\" alt=\"V3N0212_a1\" width=\"640\" height=\"361\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/39/2014/08/V3N0212_a1-e1411160441534.jpg 640w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/39/2014/08/V3N0212_a1-e1411160441534-400x226.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Most people assume that farmers' markets help encourage sustainable agriculture. Morales' new project could help measure that effect. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Bill Lubing.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Farmers’ markets might very well be doing all these things, Morales says, but we don’t know, and he admits that right now there isn’t even a consensus on how to evaluate these “sustainable” activities. “But even so, we have to make a way forward. And the way we make a way forward is though measurement.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those measurements are relatively easy for major supermarket chains, which have the staff and the budgets for exhaustive market research. Analyzing research data enables big retailers to respond to changing demographics and consumer preferences, ensuring that they stay relevant to the communities they serve. Farmers’ markets typically don’t have those resources. That’s where Morales’ project comes in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Morales and his partners at the \u003ca href=\"http://farmersmarketcoalition.org/programs/farmers-market-metrics/\">Farmers Market Coalition\u003c/a> are working with managers at nine farmers’ markets around the country to ask, “What is it that’s relevant to them and their community?” They’ll help market managers figure out what data they need and how to collect and present it. Some of the data will help address all those assumptions about the environmental benefits of farmers’ markets, such as the average number of miles the food actually travels, the number of organically farmed acres represented at the market, and how diversified the market’s farms are. Other data will speak to a market’s impact on its community by looking at the number of small businesses started through the farmers’ market, whether it attracts foot traffic to nearby shops, and the number of vendors who are minorities or women. All this data collection will help reveal how each farmers’ market is affecting its community -- and how it could be doing better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bill Lubing, the manager of the Dane County Farmers’ Market in Madison, agrees that good data is essential when making decisions about how to move a market forward. “There are a lot of people with a lot of ideas,” he said, but a shortage of ways to evaluate those ideas. “More data is always better.” For example, because he ran the market’s newsletter for years before becoming manager, Lubing knows that links to recipes are very popular. Surmising that customers are sometimes stumped by the produce at the market (how do you tackle an entire stalk of \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7mu0r40oJE&list=UU2qtSbmfD1pnBNjtaQsh-8w\">Brussels sprouts\u003c/a>?), he’s published a series of basic instructional \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/user/lubingcreative/videos\">videos\u003c/a>, as well as more recipes. They’ve been a hit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Morales argues that good data can do more than improve decision making. It can also help market managers advocate for the market with local business and government. For example, if a market wants permission to open a new branch in a public park in an underserved neighborhood, data showing the amount of produce purchased with SNAP benefits can help persuade the city that it’s a worthwhile use of space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Morales, who worked as a market vendor in Chicago while doing research for his dissertation, believes that professors like him have an opportunity “to really engage with the community directly, and to try to empower people.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72032\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2014/08/V3N1547_7-5-08_a1-e1411160701534.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-72032\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2014/08/V3N1547_7-5-08_a1-e1411160701534.jpg\" alt=\"Shopping at a farmers' market gives consumers a closer connection to their food--which is becoming increasingly popular. Photo courtesy of Bill Lubing. \" width=\"640\" height=\"340\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/39/2014/08/V3N1547_7-5-08_a1-e1411160701534.jpg 640w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/39/2014/08/V3N1547_7-5-08_a1-e1411160701534-400x213.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shopping at a farmers' market gives consumers a closer connection to their food--which is becoming increasingly popular. Photo courtesy of Bill Lubing.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The project’s immediate focus is local: to help individual managers make decisions that work in their particular communities. But if the project takes off (and it looks like it’s going to -- dozens of markets beyond the original nine have asked to participate) it could generate enough data to start to draw conclusions about the roles of farmers’ markets in the United States as a whole. That’s exactly the kind of large-scale data needed to evaluate whether farmers’ markets are really helping create a more sustainable food system.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless of how they stack up environmentally, Morales believes that farmers’ markets offer something that chain supermarkets can’t: a personal connection to a farmer and to food. “A relationship matters to people,” he said. Lubing agrees. Shopping at a farmers’ market “really has an emotional buy-in factor,” where you feel like you’re cheating on your local cheese maker if you grab a block of Cheddar from the grocery store in a pinch. “And people love that, people crave that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"A new project at the University of Wisconsin will help farmers' markets figure out how to meet the needs of their communities. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1442638638,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":13,"wordCount":982},"headData":{"title":"Farmers' Markets Are Good for Communities ... Right? | KQED","description":"A new project at the University of Wisconsin will help farmers' markets figure out how to meet the needs of their communities. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"71919 http://science.kqed.org/quest/?p=71919","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/quest/2014/09/23/farmers-markets-are-good-for-communities-right/","disqusTitle":"Farmers' Markets Are Good for Communities ... Right?","path":"/quest/71919/farmers-markets-are-good-for-communities-right","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Farmers’ markets practically glow with wholesome virtue: Shop here, they promise, and you can help build a sustainable, healthy food system!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But without the data to buttress those claims, it’s hard to know whether farmers’ markets are actually meeting those goals or how they can adapt to better meet their communities’ needs. Alfonso Morales, a professor of urban planning at the University of Wisconsin-Madison, wants to help change that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fueled by an \u003ca href=\"http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/getfile?dDocName=STELPRDC5105706\">increasing interest\u003c/a> in local food, the number of farmers’ markets in the United States has \u003ca href=\"http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/ams.fetchTemplateData.do?template=TemplateS&navID=WholesaleandFarmersMarkets&leftNav=WholesaleandFarmersMarkets&page=WFMFarmersMarketGrowth&description=Farmers%20Market%20Growth&acct=frmrdirmkt\">more than doubled\u003c/a> in the last decade. This rise in popularity has been accompanied by the implicit assumption that farmers’ markets are more sustainable than their fluorescent-lit, big-box counterparts. Their environmental advantages, advocates say, are clear. Food is transported shorter distances, which results in lower fossil fuel consumption. Farmers’ markets offer more diverse crops grown by more eco-friendly methods. Broaden the definition of sustainability to include social, health, and economic factors, and you’ll encounter claims that farmers’ markets promote healthy eating and a pedestrian culture, bring fresh produce to underserved neighborhoods, foster entrepreneurship and a diversified agricultural economy, and create a social space that builds a sense of community.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72031\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2014/08/V3N0212_a1-e1411160441534.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-72031 size-full\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2014/08/V3N0212_a1-e1411160441534.jpg\" alt=\"V3N0212_a1\" width=\"640\" height=\"361\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/39/2014/08/V3N0212_a1-e1411160441534.jpg 640w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/39/2014/08/V3N0212_a1-e1411160441534-400x226.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Most people assume that farmers' markets help encourage sustainable agriculture. Morales' new project could help measure that effect. \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Bill Lubing.)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Farmers’ markets might very well be doing all these things, Morales says, but we don’t know, and he admits that right now there isn’t even a consensus on how to evaluate these “sustainable” activities. “But even so, we have to make a way forward. And the way we make a way forward is though measurement.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those measurements are relatively easy for major supermarket chains, which have the staff and the budgets for exhaustive market research. Analyzing research data enables big retailers to respond to changing demographics and consumer preferences, ensuring that they stay relevant to the communities they serve. Farmers’ markets typically don’t have those resources. That’s where Morales’ project comes in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Morales and his partners at the \u003ca href=\"http://farmersmarketcoalition.org/programs/farmers-market-metrics/\">Farmers Market Coalition\u003c/a> are working with managers at nine farmers’ markets around the country to ask, “What is it that’s relevant to them and their community?” They’ll help market managers figure out what data they need and how to collect and present it. Some of the data will help address all those assumptions about the environmental benefits of farmers’ markets, such as the average number of miles the food actually travels, the number of organically farmed acres represented at the market, and how diversified the market’s farms are. Other data will speak to a market’s impact on its community by looking at the number of small businesses started through the farmers’ market, whether it attracts foot traffic to nearby shops, and the number of vendors who are minorities or women. All this data collection will help reveal how each farmers’ market is affecting its community -- and how it could be doing better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bill Lubing, the manager of the Dane County Farmers’ Market in Madison, agrees that good data is essential when making decisions about how to move a market forward. “There are a lot of people with a lot of ideas,” he said, but a shortage of ways to evaluate those ideas. “More data is always better.” For example, because he ran the market’s newsletter for years before becoming manager, Lubing knows that links to recipes are very popular. Surmising that customers are sometimes stumped by the produce at the market (how do you tackle an entire stalk of \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7mu0r40oJE&list=UU2qtSbmfD1pnBNjtaQsh-8w\">Brussels sprouts\u003c/a>?), he’s published a series of basic instructional \u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/user/lubingcreative/videos\">videos\u003c/a>, as well as more recipes. They’ve been a hit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Morales argues that good data can do more than improve decision making. It can also help market managers advocate for the market with local business and government. For example, if a market wants permission to open a new branch in a public park in an underserved neighborhood, data showing the amount of produce purchased with SNAP benefits can help persuade the city that it’s a worthwhile use of space.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Morales, who worked as a market vendor in Chicago while doing research for his dissertation, believes that professors like him have an opportunity “to really engage with the community directly, and to try to empower people.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72032\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2014/08/V3N1547_7-5-08_a1-e1411160701534.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-72032\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2014/08/V3N1547_7-5-08_a1-e1411160701534.jpg\" alt=\"Shopping at a farmers' market gives consumers a closer connection to their food--which is becoming increasingly popular. Photo courtesy of Bill Lubing. \" width=\"640\" height=\"340\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/39/2014/08/V3N1547_7-5-08_a1-e1411160701534.jpg 640w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/39/2014/08/V3N1547_7-5-08_a1-e1411160701534-400x213.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shopping at a farmers' market gives consumers a closer connection to their food--which is becoming increasingly popular. Photo courtesy of Bill Lubing.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The project’s immediate focus is local: to help individual managers make decisions that work in their particular communities. But if the project takes off (and it looks like it’s going to -- dozens of markets beyond the original nine have asked to participate) it could generate enough data to start to draw conclusions about the roles of farmers’ markets in the United States as a whole. That’s exactly the kind of large-scale data needed to evaluate whether farmers’ markets are really helping create a more sustainable food system.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Regardless of how they stack up environmentally, Morales believes that farmers’ markets offer something that chain supermarkets can’t: a personal connection to a farmer and to food. “A relationship matters to people,” he said. Lubing agrees. Shopping at a farmers’ market “really has an emotional buy-in factor,” where you feel like you’re cheating on your local cheese maker if you grab a block of Cheddar from the grocery store in a pinch. “And people love that, people crave that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/quest/71919/farmers-markets-are-good-for-communities-right","authors":["10441"],"categories":["quest_9","quest_3229","quest_12"],"tags":["quest_12979","quest_1122","quest_12269","quest_12116","quest_12355","quest_12450","quest_13364","quest_13365"],"featImg":"quest_72030","label":"quest"},"quest_71174":{"type":"posts","id":"quest_71174","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"quest","id":"71174","score":null,"sort":[1407247210000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-future-of-sustainable-food-qa-with-wendell-berry","title":"The Future of Sustainable Food: Q&A with Wendell Berry","publishDate":1407247210,"format":"standard","headTitle":"QUEST | KQED Science","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>Farmer and environmentalist Wendell Berry is known to many as the father of the sustainable food movement. He is an outspoken advocate for an agrarian revolution to end industrialized practices that he says are poisoning the land and destroying rural communities. In recent years Berry has promoted a 50-Year Farm Bill, which presents a long-term plan to reduce soil erosion and land pollution by replacing annual crops with perennials. His latest book, \u003cem>Distant Neighbors\u003c/em>, chronicles his 40-year correspondence with poet Gary Snyder, and discusses everything from faith and family to the destruction of the environment. Berry stopped by \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/\">KQED\u003c/a> and I had a chance to speak with him about agricultural policy and current trends in the sustainable food movement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The word “sustainability” has become very promiscuously used these days.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, it’s useless.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yeah. So I'm curious what you think of that word or how you define it.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003caside class=\"pullquote alignleft\">\"We’re stuck with the word 'sustainability' because it’s clearly something we have to strive for\"\u003c/aside>\n\u003cp> Well, we’re stuck with the word “sustainability” because it’s clearly something we have to strive for. But we had better be a little humble about it, because we Americans have not sustained anything for very long. And the stuff that we have sustained, we haven’t done it deliberately until the last few years. So this issue of sustainability requires a lot of careful thought about ways of work and kinds of materials and it’s a conversation that we’ve just begun. The thing that we’re most needing to sustain is the health of the ecosphere, which is a big job. It then divides itself naturally into the need to sustain local ecosystems. The great fact of our time is that while our conversation about sustainability is trying to get started, we’re destroying the health of the local ecosystems.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71585\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 337px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2014/06/RS2700_VallejoFarmersMarket_20120414e-scr.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-71585\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2014/06/RS2700_VallejoFarmersMarket_20120414e-scr-337x253.jpg\" alt=\"Buying produce at farmers' markets helps support local economies and build community. (Craig Miller/KQED)\" width=\"337\" height=\"253\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Buying produce at farmers' markets helps support local economies and build community, according to Berry. (Craig Miller/KQED)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>In the past you’ve advocated for a 50-Year Farm Bill to try to address some of these problems.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m glad you mentioned \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/national/archive/2012/11/the-50-year-farm-bill/265099/\" target=\"_blank\">the 50-Year Farm Bill\u003c/a>, because it makes sense. It is a brief document that has the great virtue of making sense about agriculture itself rather than about food stamps and those peripheral matters (not that I’m against food stamps). But the idea is to reverse the ratio between annual and perennial plants. We now have 20 percent perennial and 80 percent annual, and the proposal is in 50 years to reverse that to 80 percent perennial and 20 percent annual. This involves diminishing the amount of erosion, the toxicity of these fields, and the ongoing destruction of rural communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You’ve talked a lot about local economies and local communities. Our world has become so globalized, is it possible to have truly local economies anymore?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s some authentic hope in this effort to promote local food, which is succeeding. It’s based on an informed population of customers, it’s based on knowledgeable land use, and it is antithetical to globalization and the global economy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>There are a lot of big corporations now trying to jump onto the sustainable food movement. For example, Coca-Cola and McDonald’s have new environmental goals for 2020. What do you make of that?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71587\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 390px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2014/06/GMO-Labeling-Initiatives-Med.png\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-71587\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2014/06/GMO-Labeling-Initiatives-Med-491x360.png\" alt=\"GMO labeling initiatives by state. States in green have passed GMO labeling laws. States in blue have introduced GMO labeling legislation in the form of bills, resolutions, or ballot measures. States in gray have yet to review GMO labeling. Visit Right to Know GMO for more information. (Liz Roth-Johnson/KQED)\" width=\"390\" height=\"286\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">GMO labeling initiatives by state. Blue states have introduced GMO labeling legislation in the form of bills, resolutions, or ballot measures. Gray states have yet to review GMO labeling. Green states have passed GMO labeling laws. Click to enlarge. Source: \u003ca href=\"http://righttoknow-gmo.org/states\" target=\"_blank\">Right to Know GMO\u003c/a> (Liz Roth-Johnson/KQED)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I was raised with a certain prejudice against corporations. And it has become less a prejudice than a case. Jefferson said we shouldn’t trust the government; I don’t think we should trust corporations. I don’t think the conservationists and environmentalists have anything to gain from getting into bed with the corporations. I think the corporations are doing that out of self-interest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you think genetically modified foods should be labeled?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, of course they should be labeled! Genetic modification is just the ultimate so far in the corporate effort to rule the food industry and the agricultural landscapes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>There are also researchers in universities trying to use genetic modification to, say, make crops that will help small farmers in Third World countries. Is there a way we could judiciously use genetic modification?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71589\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 220px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2014/06/INSET-Wendell-and-the-woodpile-c-Guy-Mendes.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-71589\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2014/06/INSET-Wendell-and-the-woodpile-c-Guy-Mendes-272x360.jpg\" alt=\"Photo by Guy Mendes\" width=\"220\" height=\"291\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo by Guy Mendes\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I would say view it with suspicion. These people [corporations] are not going to do anything, I think, to help small people succeed. They’re going to do it in their own interest. And people who are working in universities from altruistic motives can’t stop their work from being taken over and used and abused by the corporations. I take it all with a grain of salt … more than a grain of salt!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Through all of this, you seem to remain fairly optimistic that we can change the food system. Where does that optimism come from?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, I’m not optimistic. I’m hopeful, because I know there are better ways of treating the world. And I know that not just from theory, but from examples, from things I’ve seen, and from things I’ve learned from reading history. It is possible to do better. Some people are doing better now\u003cem>.\u003c/em> And that’s not to be argued with.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This interview has been condensed and edited.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Farmer and environmentalist Wendell Berry discusses agricultural policy and current trends in the sustainable food movement.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1442642725,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":953},"headData":{"title":"The Future of Sustainable Food: Q&A with Wendell Berry | KQED","description":"Farmer and environmentalist Wendell Berry discusses agricultural policy and current trends in the sustainable food movement.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"71174 http://science.kqed.org/quest/?p=71174","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/quest/2014/08/05/the-future-of-sustainable-food-qa-with-wendell-berry/","disqusTitle":"The Future of Sustainable Food: Q&A with Wendell Berry","source":"Environment","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/quest/category/environment/","path":"/quest/71174/the-future-of-sustainable-food-qa-with-wendell-berry","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Farmer and environmentalist Wendell Berry is known to many as the father of the sustainable food movement. He is an outspoken advocate for an agrarian revolution to end industrialized practices that he says are poisoning the land and destroying rural communities. In recent years Berry has promoted a 50-Year Farm Bill, which presents a long-term plan to reduce soil erosion and land pollution by replacing annual crops with perennials. His latest book, \u003cem>Distant Neighbors\u003c/em>, chronicles his 40-year correspondence with poet Gary Snyder, and discusses everything from faith and family to the destruction of the environment. Berry stopped by \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/\">KQED\u003c/a> and I had a chance to speak with him about agricultural policy and current trends in the sustainable food movement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The word “sustainability” has become very promiscuously used these days.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yes, it’s useless.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Yeah. So I'm curious what you think of that word or how you define it.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003caside class=\"pullquote alignleft\">\"We’re stuck with the word 'sustainability' because it’s clearly something we have to strive for\"\u003c/aside>\n\u003cp> Well, we’re stuck with the word “sustainability” because it’s clearly something we have to strive for. But we had better be a little humble about it, because we Americans have not sustained anything for very long. And the stuff that we have sustained, we haven’t done it deliberately until the last few years. So this issue of sustainability requires a lot of careful thought about ways of work and kinds of materials and it’s a conversation that we’ve just begun. The thing that we’re most needing to sustain is the health of the ecosphere, which is a big job. It then divides itself naturally into the need to sustain local ecosystems. The great fact of our time is that while our conversation about sustainability is trying to get started, we’re destroying the health of the local ecosystems.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71585\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 337px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2014/06/RS2700_VallejoFarmersMarket_20120414e-scr.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-71585\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2014/06/RS2700_VallejoFarmersMarket_20120414e-scr-337x253.jpg\" alt=\"Buying produce at farmers' markets helps support local economies and build community. (Craig Miller/KQED)\" width=\"337\" height=\"253\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Buying produce at farmers' markets helps support local economies and build community, according to Berry. (Craig Miller/KQED)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>In the past you’ve advocated for a 50-Year Farm Bill to try to address some of these problems.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’m glad you mentioned \u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/national/archive/2012/11/the-50-year-farm-bill/265099/\" target=\"_blank\">the 50-Year Farm Bill\u003c/a>, because it makes sense. It is a brief document that has the great virtue of making sense about agriculture itself rather than about food stamps and those peripheral matters (not that I’m against food stamps). But the idea is to reverse the ratio between annual and perennial plants. We now have 20 percent perennial and 80 percent annual, and the proposal is in 50 years to reverse that to 80 percent perennial and 20 percent annual. This involves diminishing the amount of erosion, the toxicity of these fields, and the ongoing destruction of rural communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You’ve talked a lot about local economies and local communities. Our world has become so globalized, is it possible to have truly local economies anymore?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s some authentic hope in this effort to promote local food, which is succeeding. It’s based on an informed population of customers, it’s based on knowledgeable land use, and it is antithetical to globalization and the global economy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>There are a lot of big corporations now trying to jump onto the sustainable food movement. For example, Coca-Cola and McDonald’s have new environmental goals for 2020. What do you make of that?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71587\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 390px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2014/06/GMO-Labeling-Initiatives-Med.png\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-71587\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2014/06/GMO-Labeling-Initiatives-Med-491x360.png\" alt=\"GMO labeling initiatives by state. States in green have passed GMO labeling laws. States in blue have introduced GMO labeling legislation in the form of bills, resolutions, or ballot measures. States in gray have yet to review GMO labeling. Visit Right to Know GMO for more information. (Liz Roth-Johnson/KQED)\" width=\"390\" height=\"286\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">GMO labeling initiatives by state. Blue states have introduced GMO labeling legislation in the form of bills, resolutions, or ballot measures. Gray states have yet to review GMO labeling. Green states have passed GMO labeling laws. Click to enlarge. Source: \u003ca href=\"http://righttoknow-gmo.org/states\" target=\"_blank\">Right to Know GMO\u003c/a> (Liz Roth-Johnson/KQED)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I was raised with a certain prejudice against corporations. And it has become less a prejudice than a case. Jefferson said we shouldn’t trust the government; I don’t think we should trust corporations. I don’t think the conservationists and environmentalists have anything to gain from getting into bed with the corporations. I think the corporations are doing that out of self-interest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you think genetically modified foods should be labeled?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, of course they should be labeled! Genetic modification is just the ultimate so far in the corporate effort to rule the food industry and the agricultural landscapes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>There are also researchers in universities trying to use genetic modification to, say, make crops that will help small farmers in Third World countries. Is there a way we could judiciously use genetic modification?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71589\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 220px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2014/06/INSET-Wendell-and-the-woodpile-c-Guy-Mendes.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-71589\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2014/06/INSET-Wendell-and-the-woodpile-c-Guy-Mendes-272x360.jpg\" alt=\"Photo by Guy Mendes\" width=\"220\" height=\"291\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo by Guy Mendes\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>I would say view it with suspicion. These people [corporations] are not going to do anything, I think, to help small people succeed. They’re going to do it in their own interest. And people who are working in universities from altruistic motives can’t stop their work from being taken over and used and abused by the corporations. I take it all with a grain of salt … more than a grain of salt!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Through all of this, you seem to remain fairly optimistic that we can change the food system. Where does that optimism come from?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, I’m not optimistic. I’m hopeful, because I know there are better ways of treating the world. And I know that not just from theory, but from examples, from things I’ve seen, and from things I’ve learned from reading history. It is possible to do better. Some people are doing better now\u003cem>.\u003c/em> And that’s not to be argued with.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This interview has been condensed and edited.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/quest/71174/the-future-of-sustainable-food-qa-with-wendell-berry","authors":["6569"],"categories":["quest_9","quest_3229"],"tags":["quest_85","quest_12944","quest_1072","quest_1073","quest_12269","quest_1228","quest_12943","quest_12116","quest_13","quest_12450","quest_13364","quest_12942"],"featImg":"quest_71584","label":"source_quest_71174"},"quest_50387":{"type":"posts","id":"quest_50387","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"quest","id":"50387","score":null,"sort":[1372773656000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"sustainable-spirits-liquor-for-the-locavore","title":"Sustainable Spirits: Liquor for the Locavore","publishDate":1372773656,"format":"aside","headTitle":"QUEST | KQED Science","labelTerm":{"site":"quest"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-56782\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2013/03/deaths-door-bottle-620-340.jpg\" alt=\"deaths door bottle\" width=\"640\" height=\"320\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/39/2013/03/deaths-door-bottle-620-340.jpg 640w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/39/2013/03/deaths-door-bottle-620-340-400x200.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">Liquor may not be the first thing that comes to mind when you hear the term \"eating local.\" But distilleries in the Madison, Wisconsin area are helping to expand our notions of what can be made and consumed locally. These artisanal distillers are crafting spirits using locally-sourced ingredients like wheat for whiskey, apples for brandy and juniper for gin. Similar to area chefs that seek out homegrown foods for their recipes or the organizers of Madison's bustling farmers market, these spirit-makers are committed to supporting the region's small agricultural producers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even knowing that, I was surprised to find a booth promoting community-supported agriculture at one of these distilleries during a recent visit. But there it was, right next to the kombucha stand, at \u003ca href=\"http://deathsdoorspirits.com/\">Death’s Door Distillery \u003c/a>in Middleton, WI. The occasion was the one year anniversary party for this state of the art facility that makes fine alcohols from locally-sourced organic grains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“They’ve just been a really big supporter of our farms and of our organization as we try to connect growers and eaters,” Erika Jones of \u003ca href=\"http://www.csacoalition.org/\">Fair Share CSA Coalition \u003c/a>told me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“And drinkers!” she added when I reminded her of the setting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56786\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 144px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2013/03/Brian-Ellison001.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-56786\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2013/03/Brian-Ellison001-144x169.jpg\" alt=\"Brian Ellison, Founder, Death's Door Distillery\" width=\"144\" height=\"169\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brian Ellison, Founder, Death's Door Distillery\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Supporting local farms is at the heart of Death’s Door’s mission. “My background is in economic development — rural economic development,” explains founder Brian Ellison. “I got involved in this project to help restore agriculture back to Washington Island as part of a sustainable economy.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Washington Island lies just off the tip of Wisconsin’s Door County Peninsula, the “thumb” of Wisconsin that juts into Lake Michigan. Death’s Door is the name of the sometimes treacherous passage between the two. Door County is sometimes called Wisconsin’s Cape Cod, which makes Washington Island something like Nantucket. And like that more famous island, Washington Island’s economy has become ever more dependent on tourism. But it wasn’t always this way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56792\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 186px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2013/03/250px-DEATHS_DOOR1.png\">\u003cimg class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-56792\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2013/03/250px-DEATHS_DOOR1-186x169.png\" alt=\"Death's Door passage, Washington Island, Wisconsin\" width=\"186\" height=\"169\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Death's Door passage, Washington Island, Wisconsin\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At one time, the island had a thriving agricultural economy based on potatoes that were well known up and down the Lake Michigan coast. As transportation systems improved and produce was moved easily and cheaply across country, the island-grown potatoes couldn’t compete. The potato fields became vacation home lots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are at least 1,200 acres that won’t go into development anytime soon, however. Those are the fields where brothers Tom and Ken Koyne, fifth-generation islanders, grow organic red wheat for use in Death’s Door whiskey, gin and vodka.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Using organic ingredients for alcohol presents special challenges according to chief distiller John Jeffrey, “Because it’s organic, it tends to come in with a much higher microbial load than commercial grain.” Without the chemical pesticides used on many commercial crops, microbes are free to flourish. Those microbes sometimes compete with Death's Door's signature yeast, which is added to a mash made of island wheat and other grains during the fermentation process. It’s the yeast’s job to feast on the sugars in the grain mash and produce ethanol, the chemical compound that gives liquor its intoxicating punch. But other microbes may also be eating those sugars, making it more difficult for the mixture to reach the required alcohol content.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56785\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 258px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2013/03/graph001.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-56785\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2013/03/graph001-258x169.jpg\" alt=\" Liquid chromatography measures ethanol and sugar peaks during fermentation. Click to enlarge.\" width=\"258\" height=\"169\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Liquid chromatography measures ethanol and sugar peaks during fermentation. Click to enlarge.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To ensure the consistency of each batch, Jeffrey carefully monitors the process using liquid chromatography, a chemistry technique that allows him to separate and measure each chemical component of the fermenting mixture. “We’re watching our ethanol peak go up and our sugar peak go down and making decisions about whether it’s time to pull it out because the bacteria are out-competing our yeast,” Jeffrey explains. “We run that line in every fermentation because we’re committed to this grain.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s that commitment to Washington Island grain that founder Ellison says sets Death’s Door apart. There are artisanal distilleries sprouting up all over the country, many of which are using locally-sourced ingredients. But it’s unlikely that many have such a strong association with a particular place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“People are relieved when they hear that Death’s Door is named after a real place and that there’s real people involved and real farming,” says Ellison. “It’s a story of real growth and a story of real rebirth in a rural place in America.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57338\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2013/07/DSC03370-e1372446698711.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-57338\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2013/07/DSC03370-e1372446698711.jpg\" alt=\"Wheat growing on Washington Island\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/39/2013/07/DSC03370-e1372446698711.jpg 640w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/39/2013/07/DSC03370-e1372446698711-400x225.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wheat growing on Washington Island. Photo Courtesy of Death's Door Distillery.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Find out how an artisanal distillery is using locally-sourced ingredients to craft liquors that support a legacy of small agricultural producers on a storied Wisconsin Island.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1381537825,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":14,"wordCount":826},"headData":{"title":"Sustainable Spirits: Liquor for the Locavore | KQED","description":"Find out how an artisanal distillery is using locally-sourced ingredients to craft liquors that support a legacy of small agricultural producers on a storied Wisconsin Island.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"50387 http://science.kqed.org/quest/?p=50387","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/quest/2013/07/02/sustainable-spirits-liquor-for-the-locavore/","disqusTitle":"Sustainable Spirits: Liquor for the Locavore","path":"/quest/50387/sustainable-spirits-liquor-for-the-locavore","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-56782\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2013/03/deaths-door-bottle-620-340.jpg\" alt=\"deaths door bottle\" width=\"640\" height=\"320\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/39/2013/03/deaths-door-bottle-620-340.jpg 640w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/39/2013/03/deaths-door-bottle-620-340-400x200.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">Liquor may not be the first thing that comes to mind when you hear the term \"eating local.\" But distilleries in the Madison, Wisconsin area are helping to expand our notions of what can be made and consumed locally. These artisanal distillers are crafting spirits using locally-sourced ingredients like wheat for whiskey, apples for brandy and juniper for gin. Similar to area chefs that seek out homegrown foods for their recipes or the organizers of Madison's bustling farmers market, these spirit-makers are committed to supporting the region's small agricultural producers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even knowing that, I was surprised to find a booth promoting community-supported agriculture at one of these distilleries during a recent visit. But there it was, right next to the kombucha stand, at \u003ca href=\"http://deathsdoorspirits.com/\">Death’s Door Distillery \u003c/a>in Middleton, WI. The occasion was the one year anniversary party for this state of the art facility that makes fine alcohols from locally-sourced organic grains.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“They’ve just been a really big supporter of our farms and of our organization as we try to connect growers and eaters,” Erika Jones of \u003ca href=\"http://www.csacoalition.org/\">Fair Share CSA Coalition \u003c/a>told me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“And drinkers!” she added when I reminded her of the setting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56786\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 144px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2013/03/Brian-Ellison001.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-56786\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2013/03/Brian-Ellison001-144x169.jpg\" alt=\"Brian Ellison, Founder, Death's Door Distillery\" width=\"144\" height=\"169\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brian Ellison, Founder, Death's Door Distillery\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Supporting local farms is at the heart of Death’s Door’s mission. “My background is in economic development — rural economic development,” explains founder Brian Ellison. “I got involved in this project to help restore agriculture back to Washington Island as part of a sustainable economy.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Washington Island lies just off the tip of Wisconsin’s Door County Peninsula, the “thumb” of Wisconsin that juts into Lake Michigan. Death’s Door is the name of the sometimes treacherous passage between the two. Door County is sometimes called Wisconsin’s Cape Cod, which makes Washington Island something like Nantucket. And like that more famous island, Washington Island’s economy has become ever more dependent on tourism. But it wasn’t always this way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56792\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 186px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2013/03/250px-DEATHS_DOOR1.png\">\u003cimg class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-56792\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2013/03/250px-DEATHS_DOOR1-186x169.png\" alt=\"Death's Door passage, Washington Island, Wisconsin\" width=\"186\" height=\"169\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Death's Door passage, Washington Island, Wisconsin\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At one time, the island had a thriving agricultural economy based on potatoes that were well known up and down the Lake Michigan coast. As transportation systems improved and produce was moved easily and cheaply across country, the island-grown potatoes couldn’t compete. The potato fields became vacation home lots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are at least 1,200 acres that won’t go into development anytime soon, however. Those are the fields where brothers Tom and Ken Koyne, fifth-generation islanders, grow organic red wheat for use in Death’s Door whiskey, gin and vodka.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Using organic ingredients for alcohol presents special challenges according to chief distiller John Jeffrey, “Because it’s organic, it tends to come in with a much higher microbial load than commercial grain.” Without the chemical pesticides used on many commercial crops, microbes are free to flourish. Those microbes sometimes compete with Death's Door's signature yeast, which is added to a mash made of island wheat and other grains during the fermentation process. It’s the yeast’s job to feast on the sugars in the grain mash and produce ethanol, the chemical compound that gives liquor its intoxicating punch. But other microbes may also be eating those sugars, making it more difficult for the mixture to reach the required alcohol content.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56785\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 258px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2013/03/graph001.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-56785\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2013/03/graph001-258x169.jpg\" alt=\" Liquid chromatography measures ethanol and sugar peaks during fermentation. Click to enlarge.\" width=\"258\" height=\"169\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Liquid chromatography measures ethanol and sugar peaks during fermentation. Click to enlarge.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To ensure the consistency of each batch, Jeffrey carefully monitors the process using liquid chromatography, a chemistry technique that allows him to separate and measure each chemical component of the fermenting mixture. “We’re watching our ethanol peak go up and our sugar peak go down and making decisions about whether it’s time to pull it out because the bacteria are out-competing our yeast,” Jeffrey explains. “We run that line in every fermentation because we’re committed to this grain.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s that commitment to Washington Island grain that founder Ellison says sets Death’s Door apart. There are artisanal distilleries sprouting up all over the country, many of which are using locally-sourced ingredients. But it’s unlikely that many have such a strong association with a particular place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“People are relieved when they hear that Death’s Door is named after a real place and that there’s real people involved and real farming,” says Ellison. “It’s a story of real growth and a story of real rebirth in a rural place in America.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57338\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 640px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2013/07/DSC03370-e1372446698711.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-57338\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/quest/wp-content/uploads/sites/39/2013/07/DSC03370-e1372446698711.jpg\" alt=\"Wheat growing on Washington Island\" width=\"640\" height=\"360\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/39/2013/07/DSC03370-e1372446698711.jpg 640w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/39/2013/07/DSC03370-e1372446698711-400x225.jpg 400w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Wheat growing on Washington Island. Photo Courtesy of Death's Door Distillery.\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/quest/50387/sustainable-spirits-liquor-for-the-locavore","authors":["10275"],"categories":["quest_4","quest_5","quest_9","quest_3229"],"tags":["quest_12114","quest_12117","quest_12118","quest_12119","quest_1671","quest_12115","quest_12116","quest_2088","quest_3292","quest_13364","quest_12113","quest_10416"],"featImg":"quest_56782","label":"quest"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. 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