From Anxiety to Cancer, Evidence Against Ultra-Processed Food Piles Up
Why Biden Discussed 'Shrinkflation' and Called Out Skimpy Bags of Potato Chips
Farm-to-Desk? How This School District Is Getting Fresh Produce to Students
LA's Bé Ù Puts a New Spin on Vietnamese Takeout and Workers' Rights
This Stockton Park Is a Weekend Haven for Hmong and Cambodian Bites
How San Francisco’s Anchor Brewing Started the Craft Beer Craze
Chinatown Walking Tour Spotlights Rich Culinary History During APEC
How SF's Rize Up Sourdough Puts Black Bakers on the Map
Beyond Bánh Mì: This San José Pop-Up Plays With Classics of Vietnamese Cuisine
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Hết Sẩy, which means 'awesome,' launched in 2020 and specializes in dishes from Southern Vietnam’s Mekong River Delta.","credit":"Beth LaBerge/KQED","altTag":"Two people smile and looks at the camera in front of a colorful tent with the words \"Hết Sẩy\" written on it.","description":null,"imgSizes":{"medium":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68080_230818-HetSayRestaurant-23-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg","width":800,"height":533,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"large":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68080_230818-HetSayRestaurant-23-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg","width":1020,"height":680,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"thumbnail":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68080_230818-HetSayRestaurant-23-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg","width":160,"height":107,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"1536x1536":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68080_230818-HetSayRestaurant-23-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg","width":1536,"height":1024,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"post-thumbnail":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68080_230818-HetSayRestaurant-23-BL-KQED-672x372.jpg","width":672,"height":372,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"twentyfourteen-full-width":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68080_230818-HetSayRestaurant-23-BL-KQED-1038x576.jpg","width":1038,"height":576,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"full-width":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68080_230818-HetSayRestaurant-23-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg","width":1920,"height":1280,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"kqedFullSize":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68080_230818-HetSayRestaurant-23-BL-KQED.jpg","width":2000,"height":1333}},"fetchFailed":false,"isLoading":false}},"audioPlayerReducer":{"postId":"stream_live"},"authorsReducer":{"byline_news_11979856":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_news_11979856","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_news_11979856","name":"\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/people/2100208/allison-aubrey\">Allison Aubrey\u003c/a>","isLoading":false},"byline_news_11978745":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_news_11978745","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_news_11978745","name":"\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/people/447244385/alina-selyukh\">Alina Selyukh\u003c/a>","isLoading":false},"byline_news_11976913":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_news_11976913","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_news_11976913","name":"\u003ca href=\"https://edsource.org/author/lthornton\">Lasherica Thornton\u003c/a>","isLoading":false},"byline_news_11967659":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_news_11967659","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_news_11967659","name":"Naomi Vanderlip","isLoading":false},"rachael-myrow":{"type":"authors","id":"251","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"251","found":true},"name":"Rachael Myrow","firstName":"Rachael","lastName":"Myrow","slug":"rachael-myrow","email":"rmyrow@kqed.org","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":["news"],"title":"Senior Editor of KQED's Silicon Valley News Desk","bio":"Rachael Myrow is Senior Editor of KQED's Silicon Valley News Desk. You can hear her work on \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/search?query=Rachael%20Myrow&page=1\">NPR\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://theworld.org/people/rachael-myrow\">The World\u003c/a>, WBUR's \u003ca href=\"https://www.wbur.org/search?q=Rachael%20Myrow\">\u003ci>Here & Now\u003c/i>\u003c/a> and the BBC. \u003c/i>She also guest hosts for KQED's \u003ci>\u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/forum/tag/rachael-myrow\">Forum\u003c/a>\u003c/i>. Over the years, she's talked with Kamau Bell, David Byrne, Kamala Harris, Tony Kushner, Armistead Maupin, Van Dyke Parks, Arnold Schwarzenegger and Tommie Smith, among others.\r\n\r\nBefore all this, she hosted \u003cem>The California Report\u003c/em> for 7+ years, reporting on topics like \u003ca href=\"https://soundcloud.com/rmyrow/on-a-mission-to-reform-assisted-living\">assisted living facilities\u003c/a>, the \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/alltechconsidered/2014/12/01/367703789/amazon-unleashes-robot-army-to-send-your-holiday-packages-faster\">robot takeover\u003c/a> of Amazon, and \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/50822/in-search-of-the-chocolate-persimmon\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">chocolate persimmons\u003c/a>.\r\n\r\nAwards? Sure: Peabody, Edward R. Murrow, Regional Edward R. Murrow, RTNDA, Northern California RTNDA, SPJ Northern California Chapter, LA Press Club, Golden Mic. Prior to joining KQED, Rachael worked in Los Angeles at KPCC and Marketplace. 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Her reporting has taken her from Samoan traveling circuses to Mississippi Delta classrooms to the homes of Lao refugees in rural Iowa. In addition to reporting, she teaches radio production to at-risk youth in the Bay Area. Her series \u003ca href=\"http://afterthegoldrushradio.com/\">After the Gold Rush\u003c/a> featured the changing industries, populations and identities of rural towns throughout California. She’s now producing \u003ca href=\"http://www.californiafoodways.com/\">California Foodways\u003c/a>, a series exploring the intersections of food, culture, economics, history and labor. Follow along on the \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/californiafoodways?ref=hl\">Facebook page\u003c/a> or on Twitter @cafoodways.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dae74b002a6e256f39abb19d6f5acaea?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"news","roles":["author"]}],"headData":{"title":"Lisa Morehouse | KQED","description":"KQED Contributor","ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dae74b002a6e256f39abb19d6f5acaea?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dae74b002a6e256f39abb19d6f5acaea?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/lmorehouse"},"afont":{"type":"authors","id":"8637","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"8637","found":true},"name":"Amanda Font","firstName":"Amanda","lastName":"Font","slug":"afont","email":"afont@kqed.org","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":["news"],"title":"KQED Contributor","bio":"Amanda Font is a producer on the \u003cem>Bay Curious\u003c/em> podcast, and the host and co-producer of the series \u003cem>Audible Cosmos\u003c/em>. She previously worked as director of \u003cem>The California Report Magazine\u003c/em>. She grew up in the deserts of Southern California and moved north for the trees. Amanda earned a B.A. from the BECA program at San Francisco State, where she worked in the university's radio station.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/d9e81cf0117d5849b9cfb7ab4b1422f1?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"news","roles":["editor","add_users","create_users"]},{"site":"science","roles":["editor"]},{"site":"forum","roles":["administrator"]},{"site":"perspectives","roles":["administrator"]},{"site":"radio","roles":["administrator"]}],"headData":{"title":"Amanda Font | KQED","description":"KQED Contributor","ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/d9e81cf0117d5849b9cfb7ab4b1422f1?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/d9e81cf0117d5849b9cfb7ab4b1422f1?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/afont"},"abandlamudi":{"type":"authors","id":"11672","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"11672","found":true},"name":"Adhiti Bandlamudi","firstName":"Adhiti","lastName":"Bandlamudi","slug":"abandlamudi","email":"abandlamudi@kqed.org","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":["news"],"title":"KQED Housing Reporter","bio":"Adhiti Bandlamudi reports for KQED's Housing desk. She focuses on how housing gets built across the Bay Area. Before joining KQED in 2020, she reported for WUNC in Durham, North Carolina, WABE in Atlanta, Georgia and Capital Public Radio in Sacramento. In 2017, she was awarded a Kroc Fellowship at NPR where she reported on everything from sprinkles to the Golden State Killer's arrest. When she's not reporting, she's baking new recipes in her kitchen or watching movies with friends and family. She's originally from Georgia and has strong opinions about Great British Bake Off.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/868129c8b257bb99a3500e2c86a65400?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"oddity_adhiti","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["author"]},{"site":"news","roles":["editor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Adhiti Bandlamudi | KQED","description":"KQED Housing Reporter","ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/868129c8b257bb99a3500e2c86a65400?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/868129c8b257bb99a3500e2c86a65400?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/abandlamudi"},"kmizuguchi":{"type":"authors","id":"11739","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"11739","found":true},"name":"Keith Mizuguchi","firstName":"Keith","lastName":"Mizuguchi","slug":"kmizuguchi","email":"kmizuguchi@kqed.org","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":"KQED 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FM","link":"/"}},"news_11979856":{"type":"posts","id":"news_11979856","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"news","id":"11979856","score":null,"sort":[1710858600000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"from-anxiety-to-cancer-evidence-against-ultra-processed-food-piles-up","title":"From Anxiety to Cancer, Evidence Against Ultra-Processed Food Piles Up","publishDate":1710858600,"format":"standard","headTitle":"From Anxiety to Cancer, Evidence Against Ultra-Processed Food Piles Up | KQED","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>At a time when Americans consume \u003ca href=\"https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34647997/#:~:text=Results%3A%20Adjusting%20for%20changes%20in,except%20Hispanics%2C%20in%20stratified%20analyses\">more than half \u003c/a>of their daily calories from ultra-processed foods, there is increasing evidence that eating too many of these foods can make us sick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A study published in the British Medical Journal finds people who consume high amounts of these foods have an increased risk of anxiety, depression, obesity, metabolic syndrome, and certain cancers, including colorectal cancer and premature death.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The data come from more than 9 million people who participated in dozens of studies, which researchers analyzed as part of an umbrella review.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Taking the body of literature as a whole, there was consistent evidence that regularly eating higher — compared to lower — amounts of ultra-processed foods was linked to these adverse health outcomes,” says study author\u003ca href=\"https://foodandmoodcentre.com.au/team/melissa-lane-2/\"> Melissa Lane\u003c/a> of Deakin University in Australia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ultra-processed foods are abundant in our food supply. Among the most common are highly refined breads, fast food, sugary drinks, cereals, cookies and other packaged snacks. They are often high in salt, sugar, fat and calories and low in fiber and micro-nutrients such as vitamins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"https://health.gov/our-work/nutrition-physical-activity/dietary-guidelines\">Dietary Guidelines for Americans\u003c/a> recommend filling half our plates with fruits and vegetables, and eating plenty of whole grains, and not too much of the refined grains found in ultra-processed foods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One telltale sign that a \u003ca href=\"https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30744710/\">food is ultra-processed\u003c/a> is if its ingredient label includes substances you would not find in your own kitchen, such as high-fructose corn syrup, hydrogenated oils, hydrolyzed protein, or additives such as artificial colors, flavor enhancers, emulsifiers, anti-caking agents and thickeners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The evidence piles up\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The observational studies included in this new review do not prove that consumption of ultra-processed foods can cause anxiety, cancer or other health conditions. These studies point to associations, not causation. But at a time when diet is a \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9921002/#:~:text=Diet%2C%20often%20considered%20as%20a,and%20perhaps%20some%20neurological%20diseases.\">leading cause of chronic disease\u003c/a>, it adds to a growing body of evidence that ultra-processed foods contribute to the development of these conditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, a study published last year found people in the habit of consuming high levels of ultra-processed foods were about three times more likely to \u003ca href=\"https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/36477589/\">develop colorectal cancer \u003c/a>compared to those who consumed the least. The exact mechanisms by which these foods may increase the risk are not clear, though the overlap with metabolic disease is striking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID=forum_2010101893523,mindshift_59828,futureofyou_310438 label='More on Ultra-Processed Foods']“One mechanism of how ultra-processed food can be associated with colorectal cancer is through leading to increased weight,” says \u003ca href=\"https://www.dana-farber.org/find-a-doctor/jeffrey-a-meyerhardt\">Jeff Meyerhardt\u003c/a>, an oncologist at Dana Farber Cancer Institute. Weight increases the risk of diabetes and metabolic syndrome factors “that are closely tied to colorectal cancer,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to mood and mental health conditions, there is evidence to show that adults who maintain a healthy diet \u003ca href=\"https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jamanetworkopen/fullarticle/2809727\">have fewer depressive symptoms\u003c/a>. For instance, a French study found adherence to a Mediterranean diet in mid-life is linked to a lower risk of depression, particularly in men. There’s also evidence that healthy diets may help\u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8706568/\"> tamp down anxiety\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re seeing a roughly 20%–50% increased risk of depressive symptoms in people who have diets that are high in these ultra-processed foods,” says\u003ca href=\"https://www.deakin.edu.au/about-deakin/people/wolf-marx\"> Wolfgang Marx\u003c/a>, a Senior Research Fellow at the Food & Mood Centre at Deakin University in Australia, and a senior author of the new research.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There could be a “threshold effect,” Marx says, meaning people who consume small amounts, under a certain threshold, are not at increased risk. Though it is not clear exactly how much is OK, because it may vary from person to person and depend on other lifestyle habits. However, the research shows people who consume the most are more likely to be affected by mood and mental health struggles.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Should consumers be warned about ultra-processed food?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>A panel of advisers is currently evaluating all the latest diet and nutrition studies as part of a process to\u003ca href=\"https://www.dietaryguidelines.gov/learn-about-process#step-4-develop-the-dietary-guidelines\"> update the federal government’s Dietary Guidelines\u003c/a>. It is possible advisers could recommend limits on ultra-processed foods, though it would likely be difficult to get people to follow them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the regulatory side, the Food and Drug Administration is moving ahead to finalize a\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2022/10/06/1127307420/the-fda-is-updating-the-definition-of-healthy-and-designing-new-labels\"> new definition of the term “healthy”\u003c/a> — which is expected soon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside link1='https://video.kqed.org/video/food-and-mental-health-1700943855/,Study Links Ultra-Processed Foods to Higher Depression Risk']The FDA says a “healthy” claim on food labels could help consumers identify healthier choices at a \u003ca href=\"https://www.fda.gov/food/food-labeling-nutrition/use-term-healthy-food-labeling\">quick glance\u003c/a> and may prompt food companies to reformulate their products. The revised definition aims to make Americans more aware of healthy fats found in foods such as avocados and salmon, and of the relative harms of foods that contain lots of salt, added sugars and saturated fats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The FDA is also moving towards\u003ca href=\"https://www.fda.gov/food/cfsan-constituent-updates/fda-issues-procedural-notice-consumer-research-front-package-labeling\"> front-of-package labeling\u003c/a> that will flag foods that contain high amounts of sodium, sugar and saturated fat. These types of labels “will make it easier for consumers to make healthier choices and better understand the nutritional value of the foods and beverages they buy,” says \u003ca href=\"https://www.heart.org/en/about-us/nancy-brown\">Nancy Brown, \u003c/a>CEO of the American Heart Association.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while the FDA is not currently tackling ultra-processed foods head-on with labeling, \u003ca href=\"https://www.fda.gov/about-fda/fda-organization/jim-jones\">Jim Jones, \u003c/a>the FDA’s first Deputy Commissioner for Human Foods, says by focusing on these three ingredients — sodium, sugar and saturated fat — the agency aims to make people aware of the risks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The science around added sugars, saturated fat, and sodium intake is quite clear,” Jones says. “We will also likely make progress on reducing consumption of ultra-processed food because there is a high correlation between those three ingredients and ultra-processed food,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jones says all regulatory decisions are based on scientific evidence, and there’s still a lot that’s unclear about the link between ultra-processed foods and disease.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is it caused by more than the overlap with obesity and metabolic diseases? Given how palatable, convenient and inexpensive many of these foods are, is it easier to over-consume them? Or are there other mechanisms at play, such as ingredients or additives that can harm our gut health?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our feeling is that we need more science before we’re ready to make recommendations or think of a voluntary or a regulatory program,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is agreement from researchers and physicians that more research is needed to fully understand the connections between ultra-processed food consumption and disease risks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This story was edited by Jane Greenhalgh. Copyright 2024 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org\">www.npr.org.\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Americans consume more than half their daily calories from ultra-processed food. A new study finds consuming lots of this food is linked to a higher risk of many diseases.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1710808069,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":1135},"headData":{"title":"From Anxiety to Cancer, Evidence Against Ultra-Processed Food Piles Up | KQED","description":"Americans consume more than half their daily calories from ultra-processed food. A new study finds consuming lots of this food is linked to a higher risk of many diseases.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"source":"NPR","sourceUrl":"https://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2024/03/18/1238939706/ultra-processed-food-junk-food-disease-cancer-anxiety-depression-diet","sticky":false,"nprImageCredit":"Dan Kitwood","nprByline":"\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/people/2100208/allison-aubrey\">Allison Aubrey\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"Getty Images","nprStoryId":"1238939706","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=1238939706&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2024/03/18/1238939706/ultra-processed-food-junk-food-disease-cancer-anxiety-depression-diet?ft=nprml&f=1238939706","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 18 Mar 2024 08:24:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 18 Mar 2024 05:01:18 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 18 Mar 2024 09:58:35 -0400","nprAudio":"https://play.podtrac.com/npr-191676894/ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2024/03/20240318_me_from_anxiety_to_cancer_the_evidence_against_ultra-processed_food_piles_up.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1066&d=208&p=3&story=1238939706&ft=nprml&f=1238939706","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/11239107326-5077ac.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1066&d=208&p=3&story=1238939706&ft=nprml&f=1238939706","excludeFromSiteSearch":"Include","showOnAuthorArchivePages":"No","articleAge":"0","path":"/news/11979856/from-anxiety-to-cancer-evidence-against-ultra-processed-food-piles-up","audioUrl":"https://play.podtrac.com/npr-191676894/ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2024/03/20240318_me_from_anxiety_to_cancer_the_evidence_against_ultra-processed_food_piles_up.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1066&d=208&p=3&story=1238939706&ft=nprml&f=1238939706","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>At a time when Americans consume \u003ca href=\"https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34647997/#:~:text=Results%3A%20Adjusting%20for%20changes%20in,except%20Hispanics%2C%20in%20stratified%20analyses\">more than half \u003c/a>of their daily calories from ultra-processed foods, there is increasing evidence that eating too many of these foods can make us sick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A study published in the British Medical Journal finds people who consume high amounts of these foods have an increased risk of anxiety, depression, obesity, metabolic syndrome, and certain cancers, including colorectal cancer and premature death.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The data come from more than 9 million people who participated in dozens of studies, which researchers analyzed as part of an umbrella review.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Taking the body of literature as a whole, there was consistent evidence that regularly eating higher — compared to lower — amounts of ultra-processed foods was linked to these adverse health outcomes,” says study author\u003ca href=\"https://foodandmoodcentre.com.au/team/melissa-lane-2/\"> Melissa Lane\u003c/a> of Deakin University in Australia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ultra-processed foods are abundant in our food supply. Among the most common are highly refined breads, fast food, sugary drinks, cereals, cookies and other packaged snacks. They are often high in salt, sugar, fat and calories and low in fiber and micro-nutrients such as vitamins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"https://health.gov/our-work/nutrition-physical-activity/dietary-guidelines\">Dietary Guidelines for Americans\u003c/a> recommend filling half our plates with fruits and vegetables, and eating plenty of whole grains, and not too much of the refined grains found in ultra-processed foods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One telltale sign that a \u003ca href=\"https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30744710/\">food is ultra-processed\u003c/a> is if its ingredient label includes substances you would not find in your own kitchen, such as high-fructose corn syrup, hydrogenated oils, hydrolyzed protein, or additives such as artificial colors, flavor enhancers, emulsifiers, anti-caking agents and thickeners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The evidence piles up\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The observational studies included in this new review do not prove that consumption of ultra-processed foods can cause anxiety, cancer or other health conditions. These studies point to associations, not causation. But at a time when diet is a \u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9921002/#:~:text=Diet%2C%20often%20considered%20as%20a,and%20perhaps%20some%20neurological%20diseases.\">leading cause of chronic disease\u003c/a>, it adds to a growing body of evidence that ultra-processed foods contribute to the development of these conditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For instance, a study published last year found people in the habit of consuming high levels of ultra-processed foods were about three times more likely to \u003ca href=\"https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/36477589/\">develop colorectal cancer \u003c/a>compared to those who consumed the least. The exact mechanisms by which these foods may increase the risk are not clear, though the overlap with metabolic disease is striking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"forum_2010101893523,mindshift_59828,futureofyou_310438","label":"More on Ultra-Processed Foods "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“One mechanism of how ultra-processed food can be associated with colorectal cancer is through leading to increased weight,” says \u003ca href=\"https://www.dana-farber.org/find-a-doctor/jeffrey-a-meyerhardt\">Jeff Meyerhardt\u003c/a>, an oncologist at Dana Farber Cancer Institute. Weight increases the risk of diabetes and metabolic syndrome factors “that are closely tied to colorectal cancer,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to mood and mental health conditions, there is evidence to show that adults who maintain a healthy diet \u003ca href=\"https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jamanetworkopen/fullarticle/2809727\">have fewer depressive symptoms\u003c/a>. For instance, a French study found adherence to a Mediterranean diet in mid-life is linked to a lower risk of depression, particularly in men. There’s also evidence that healthy diets may help\u003ca href=\"https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8706568/\"> tamp down anxiety\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re seeing a roughly 20%–50% increased risk of depressive symptoms in people who have diets that are high in these ultra-processed foods,” says\u003ca href=\"https://www.deakin.edu.au/about-deakin/people/wolf-marx\"> Wolfgang Marx\u003c/a>, a Senior Research Fellow at the Food & Mood Centre at Deakin University in Australia, and a senior author of the new research.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There could be a “threshold effect,” Marx says, meaning people who consume small amounts, under a certain threshold, are not at increased risk. Though it is not clear exactly how much is OK, because it may vary from person to person and depend on other lifestyle habits. However, the research shows people who consume the most are more likely to be affected by mood and mental health struggles.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Should consumers be warned about ultra-processed food?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>A panel of advisers is currently evaluating all the latest diet and nutrition studies as part of a process to\u003ca href=\"https://www.dietaryguidelines.gov/learn-about-process#step-4-develop-the-dietary-guidelines\"> update the federal government’s Dietary Guidelines\u003c/a>. It is possible advisers could recommend limits on ultra-processed foods, though it would likely be difficult to get people to follow them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the regulatory side, the Food and Drug Administration is moving ahead to finalize a\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2022/10/06/1127307420/the-fda-is-updating-the-definition-of-healthy-and-designing-new-labels\"> new definition of the term “healthy”\u003c/a> — which is expected soon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"link1":"https://video.kqed.org/video/food-and-mental-health-1700943855/,Study Links Ultra-Processed Foods to Higher Depression Risk","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>The FDA says a “healthy” claim on food labels could help consumers identify healthier choices at a \u003ca href=\"https://www.fda.gov/food/food-labeling-nutrition/use-term-healthy-food-labeling\">quick glance\u003c/a> and may prompt food companies to reformulate their products. The revised definition aims to make Americans more aware of healthy fats found in foods such as avocados and salmon, and of the relative harms of foods that contain lots of salt, added sugars and saturated fats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The FDA is also moving towards\u003ca href=\"https://www.fda.gov/food/cfsan-constituent-updates/fda-issues-procedural-notice-consumer-research-front-package-labeling\"> front-of-package labeling\u003c/a> that will flag foods that contain high amounts of sodium, sugar and saturated fat. These types of labels “will make it easier for consumers to make healthier choices and better understand the nutritional value of the foods and beverages they buy,” says \u003ca href=\"https://www.heart.org/en/about-us/nancy-brown\">Nancy Brown, \u003c/a>CEO of the American Heart Association.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And while the FDA is not currently tackling ultra-processed foods head-on with labeling, \u003ca href=\"https://www.fda.gov/about-fda/fda-organization/jim-jones\">Jim Jones, \u003c/a>the FDA’s first Deputy Commissioner for Human Foods, says by focusing on these three ingredients — sodium, sugar and saturated fat — the agency aims to make people aware of the risks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The science around added sugars, saturated fat, and sodium intake is quite clear,” Jones says. “We will also likely make progress on reducing consumption of ultra-processed food because there is a high correlation between those three ingredients and ultra-processed food,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jones says all regulatory decisions are based on scientific evidence, and there’s still a lot that’s unclear about the link between ultra-processed foods and disease.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Is it caused by more than the overlap with obesity and metabolic diseases? Given how palatable, convenient and inexpensive many of these foods are, is it easier to over-consume them? Or are there other mechanisms at play, such as ingredients or additives that can harm our gut health?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our feeling is that we need more science before we’re ready to make recommendations or think of a voluntary or a regulatory program,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There is agreement from researchers and physicians that more research is needed to fully understand the connections between ultra-processed food consumption and disease risks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This story was edited by Jane Greenhalgh. Copyright 2024 NPR. To see more, visit \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org\">www.npr.org.\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/news/11979856/from-anxiety-to-cancer-evidence-against-ultra-processed-food-piles-up","authors":["byline_news_11979856"],"categories":["news_457","news_8"],"tags":["news_333"],"featImg":"news_11979857","label":"source_news_11979856"},"news_11978745":{"type":"posts","id":"news_11978745","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"news","id":"11978745","score":null,"sort":[1710007240000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"why-biden-discussed-shrinkflation-and-called-out-skimpy-bags-of-potato-chips","title":"Why Biden Discussed 'Shrinkflation' and Called Out Skimpy Bags of Potato Chips","publishDate":1710007240,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Why Biden Discussed ‘Shrinkflation’ and Called Out Skimpy Bags of Potato Chips | KQED","labelTerm":{"term":253,"site":"news"},"content":"\u003cp>During his State of the Union address, President Joe Biden reached for one of his top recent peeves: shrinkflation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Too many corporations raise prices to pad the profits, charging more and more for less and less,” Biden said. He complained about skimpier Snickers bars and added: “The snack companies think you won’t notice if they change the size of the bag and put a hell of a lot fewer — same size bag — put fewer chips in it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Less coffee in a can, more air in a bag of cereal, fewer sheets in a toilet paper roll — shrinkflation lets higher prices hide in plain sight without instantly shocking shoppers. NPR’s Planet Money dubbed it “\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/money/2021/07/06/1012409112/beware-of-shrinkflation-inflations-devious-cousin\">inflation’s devious cousin\u003c/a>.”[pullquote size=\"medium\" align=\"right\" citation=\"President Joe Biden\"]‘The snack companies think you won’t notice if they change the size of the bag and put a hell of a lot fewer — same size bag — put fewer chips in it.’[/pullquote]Last year, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2023/01/26/1147894382/walmart-price-inflation-supply-chain-economy\">NPR’s research found\u003c/a>, for instance, Dove shrunk its soap and Tide shrunk its laundry detergent jugs, while both also slightly raised prices. For shoppers, financial experts recommended considering the price per unit (per ounce or per item in a pack) to assess price changes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This week, even a beloved blue-haired Sesame Street resident got roped into the growing political debate about the government’s role in battling shrinkflation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Me hate shrinkflation!” Cookie Monster \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MeCookieMonster/status/1764692032914690276\">wrote in on X (formerly Twitter)\u003c/a>. “Me cookies are getting smaller.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The White House instantly \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/WhiteHouse/status/1764765909485298066\">posted in response\u003c/a>: “C is for consumers getting ripped off.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Why shrinkflation sticks around\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>These days, household paper products and snacks get downsized the most, according to the \u003ca href=\"https://www.bls.gov/opub/btn/volume-12/measuring-shrinkflation-and-its-impact-on-inflation.htm\">2023 report\u003c/a> by the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. The agency tracks shrinkflation as part of its research on consumer prices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Overall, shrinkflation affects a small portion of products, government experts found, and manufacturers are downsizing less frequently than they did a decade ago, although the changes can be dramatic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To explain themselves, companies tend to cite higher costs of making stuff. This could be \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2023/06/27/1184027892/china-tariffs-biden-trump\">tariffs on Chinese imports\u003c/a> put by the Trump administration, the soaring price of shipping during the pandemic \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/series/1054134188/stuck-in-transit-the-supply-chain-in-disarray\">supply-chain crisis\u003c/a>, higher wages to \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/series/1017985033/help-wanted-where-are-the-workers\">attract workers\u003c/a> or bad harvests of specific ingredients \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2024/02/12/1230120289/valentines-day-chocolate-cocoa-prices\">like cocoa\u003c/a>.[pullquote size=\"medium\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Cookie Monster, Sesame Street\"]‘Me hate shrinkflation! Me cookies are getting smaller.’[/pullquote]Shrinkflation feels particularly painful at a time of high food prices overall. \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2023/12/16/1219574403/economy-inflation-prices-wages-disinflation-deflation-interest-rates\">Inflation has cooled significantly\u003c/a>, and wages have been climbing faster than prices. But prices are still inching up after inflation hit a four-decade high in 2022. Workers’ buying power has yet to fully recover.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And prices get sticky. Historically, it takes longer for companies to lower price tags after hiking them. For months, consumer goods companies found shoppers grumbling about higher prices, sure, but still buying stuff nonetheless.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But now, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2024/02/24/1233702523/checking-in-on-the-economy-ahead-of-election-season\">some are starting to lose business\u003c/a> as more people have begun to walk away from pricier goods. More retailers are talking about “deflation” — reducing prices.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Democrats blame ‘greedflation’\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The White House this week launched a “\u003ca href=\"https://www.whitehouse.gov/briefing-room/statements-releases/2024/03/07/fact-sheet-president-biden-is-taking-action-to-lower-costs-for-families-and-fight-corporate-rip-offs/\">strike force\u003c/a>” on pricing, which aimed at \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2024/03/06/1235955054/biden-junk-fees-state-of-the-union\">junk fees\u003c/a>, credit card \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2024/03/05/1235973211/credit-card-late-fees-cap-junk-fees-cfpb\">late fees\u003c/a> and many \u003ca href=\"https://www.whitehouse.gov/briefing-room/statements-releases/2024/03/07/fact-sheet-president-biden-announces-plan-to-lower-housing-costs-for-working-families/#:~:text=As%20part%20of%20the%20Strike,deceptive%2C%20or%20fraudulent%20business%20practices.\">other costs\u003c/a>. Biden is attempting to sway voters, who keep telling pollsters they disapprove of his handling of the economy despite \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2024/02/02/1228587247/jobs-labor-employers-economy-inflation-interest-rates\">strong job gains\u003c/a>, low unemployment and \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2024/02/02/1228587247/jobs-labor-employers-economy-inflation-interest-rates\">faster GDP growth\u003c/a> than many forecasters had expected. [aside label='More on Politics' tag='politics']Bringing up shrinkflation in the State of the Union, the president once again backed \u003ca href=\"https://www.casey.senate.gov/news/releases/stop-shrinkflation-casey-introduces-legislation-to-crack-down-on-big-corporations-shrinking-products-without-reducing-prices\">a bill by Sen. Bob Casey\u003c/a> (D-Penn.), that would give more policing power to the Federal Trade Commission and state attorneys general.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.casey.senate.gov/imo/media/doc/shrinkflation_report.pdf\">A recent report by Casey’s office (PDF)\u003c/a> said corporate profits grew more than five times faster than inflation between mid-2020 and mid-2022.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Critics of Biden’s war on shrinkflation present it as a new attempt at federal price controls, which \u003ca href=\"https://www.stlouisfed.org/publications/regional-economist/2022/mar/why-price-controls-should-stay-history-books\">historically has often been\u003c/a> an ill-fated policy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This effort by the Biden Administration to use regulatory agencies to micromanage how private businesses set prices will have the same result: shortages, fewer choices for consumers, a weaker economy, and less jobs,” the U.S. Chamber of Commerce’s Neil Bradley \u003ca href=\"https://www.uschamber.com/finance/antitrust/u-s-chamber-white-house-strike-force-an-attempt-to-return-to-government-price-controls\">said about Biden’s strike force\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>What about potato chips?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Now, on the matter of shrinkflation in potato chips specifically?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One company, \u003ca href=\"https://www.fritolay.com/brands\">Frito-Lay\u003c/a>, makes many of the most popular chips: Lay’s, Doritos, Cheetos, Fritos, Ruffles, Tostitos, SunChips, Stacey’s chips and chip-adjacent Funyuns. The firm is owned by Pepsi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Frito-Lay’s representatives did not respond to NPR’s question about whether — or when — the company planned to add more chips to each bag.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The term is relatively new, but companies have long-hidden price hikes in plain sight by changing package sizing. Now, the debate is getting political. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1710011484,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":830},"headData":{"title":"Why Biden Discussed 'Shrinkflation' and Called Out Skimpy Bags of Potato Chips | KQED","description":"The term is relatively new, but companies have long-hidden price hikes in plain sight by changing package sizing. Now, the debate is getting political. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"sticky":false,"nprImageCredit":"Justin Sullivan","nprByline":"\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/people/447244385/alina-selyukh\">Alina Selyukh\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"Getty Images","nprStoryId":"1236921674","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=1236921674&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/2024/03/08/1236921674/biden-state-of-the-union-shrinkflation-prices?ft=nprml&f=1236921674","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Fri, 08 Mar 2024 13:48:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Fri, 08 Mar 2024 13:29:47 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Fri, 08 Mar 2024 13:48:43 -0500","excludeFromSiteSearch":"Include","showOnAuthorArchivePages":"No","articleAge":"0","path":"/news/11978745/why-biden-discussed-shrinkflation-and-called-out-skimpy-bags-of-potato-chips","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>During his State of the Union address, President Joe Biden reached for one of his top recent peeves: shrinkflation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Too many corporations raise prices to pad the profits, charging more and more for less and less,” Biden said. He complained about skimpier Snickers bars and added: “The snack companies think you won’t notice if they change the size of the bag and put a hell of a lot fewer — same size bag — put fewer chips in it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Less coffee in a can, more air in a bag of cereal, fewer sheets in a toilet paper roll — shrinkflation lets higher prices hide in plain sight without instantly shocking shoppers. NPR’s Planet Money dubbed it “\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/money/2021/07/06/1012409112/beware-of-shrinkflation-inflations-devious-cousin\">inflation’s devious cousin\u003c/a>.”\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"‘The snack companies think you won’t notice if they change the size of the bag and put a hell of a lot fewer — same size bag — put fewer chips in it.’","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"medium","align":"right","citation":"President Joe Biden","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Last year, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2023/01/26/1147894382/walmart-price-inflation-supply-chain-economy\">NPR’s research found\u003c/a>, for instance, Dove shrunk its soap and Tide shrunk its laundry detergent jugs, while both also slightly raised prices. For shoppers, financial experts recommended considering the price per unit (per ounce or per item in a pack) to assess price changes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This week, even a beloved blue-haired Sesame Street resident got roped into the growing political debate about the government’s role in battling shrinkflation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Me hate shrinkflation!” Cookie Monster \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MeCookieMonster/status/1764692032914690276\">wrote in on X (formerly Twitter)\u003c/a>. “Me cookies are getting smaller.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The White House instantly \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/WhiteHouse/status/1764765909485298066\">posted in response\u003c/a>: “C is for consumers getting ripped off.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Why shrinkflation sticks around\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>These days, household paper products and snacks get downsized the most, according to the \u003ca href=\"https://www.bls.gov/opub/btn/volume-12/measuring-shrinkflation-and-its-impact-on-inflation.htm\">2023 report\u003c/a> by the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. The agency tracks shrinkflation as part of its research on consumer prices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Overall, shrinkflation affects a small portion of products, government experts found, and manufacturers are downsizing less frequently than they did a decade ago, although the changes can be dramatic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To explain themselves, companies tend to cite higher costs of making stuff. This could be \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2023/06/27/1184027892/china-tariffs-biden-trump\">tariffs on Chinese imports\u003c/a> put by the Trump administration, the soaring price of shipping during the pandemic \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/series/1054134188/stuck-in-transit-the-supply-chain-in-disarray\">supply-chain crisis\u003c/a>, higher wages to \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/series/1017985033/help-wanted-where-are-the-workers\">attract workers\u003c/a> or bad harvests of specific ingredients \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2024/02/12/1230120289/valentines-day-chocolate-cocoa-prices\">like cocoa\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"‘Me hate shrinkflation! Me cookies are getting smaller.’","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"medium","align":"right","citation":"Cookie Monster, Sesame Street","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Shrinkflation feels particularly painful at a time of high food prices overall. \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2023/12/16/1219574403/economy-inflation-prices-wages-disinflation-deflation-interest-rates\">Inflation has cooled significantly\u003c/a>, and wages have been climbing faster than prices. But prices are still inching up after inflation hit a four-decade high in 2022. Workers’ buying power has yet to fully recover.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And prices get sticky. Historically, it takes longer for companies to lower price tags after hiking them. For months, consumer goods companies found shoppers grumbling about higher prices, sure, but still buying stuff nonetheless.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But now, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2024/02/24/1233702523/checking-in-on-the-economy-ahead-of-election-season\">some are starting to lose business\u003c/a> as more people have begun to walk away from pricier goods. More retailers are talking about “deflation” — reducing prices.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Democrats blame ‘greedflation’\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The White House this week launched a “\u003ca href=\"https://www.whitehouse.gov/briefing-room/statements-releases/2024/03/07/fact-sheet-president-biden-is-taking-action-to-lower-costs-for-families-and-fight-corporate-rip-offs/\">strike force\u003c/a>” on pricing, which aimed at \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2024/03/06/1235955054/biden-junk-fees-state-of-the-union\">junk fees\u003c/a>, credit card \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2024/03/05/1235973211/credit-card-late-fees-cap-junk-fees-cfpb\">late fees\u003c/a> and many \u003ca href=\"https://www.whitehouse.gov/briefing-room/statements-releases/2024/03/07/fact-sheet-president-biden-announces-plan-to-lower-housing-costs-for-working-families/#:~:text=As%20part%20of%20the%20Strike,deceptive%2C%20or%20fraudulent%20business%20practices.\">other costs\u003c/a>. Biden is attempting to sway voters, who keep telling pollsters they disapprove of his handling of the economy despite \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2024/02/02/1228587247/jobs-labor-employers-economy-inflation-interest-rates\">strong job gains\u003c/a>, low unemployment and \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/2024/02/02/1228587247/jobs-labor-employers-economy-inflation-interest-rates\">faster GDP growth\u003c/a> than many forecasters had expected. \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"label":"More on Politics ","tag":"politics"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Bringing up shrinkflation in the State of the Union, the president once again backed \u003ca href=\"https://www.casey.senate.gov/news/releases/stop-shrinkflation-casey-introduces-legislation-to-crack-down-on-big-corporations-shrinking-products-without-reducing-prices\">a bill by Sen. Bob Casey\u003c/a> (D-Penn.), that would give more policing power to the Federal Trade Commission and state attorneys general.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.casey.senate.gov/imo/media/doc/shrinkflation_report.pdf\">A recent report by Casey’s office (PDF)\u003c/a> said corporate profits grew more than five times faster than inflation between mid-2020 and mid-2022.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Critics of Biden’s war on shrinkflation present it as a new attempt at federal price controls, which \u003ca href=\"https://www.stlouisfed.org/publications/regional-economist/2022/mar/why-price-controls-should-stay-history-books\">historically has often been\u003c/a> an ill-fated policy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This effort by the Biden Administration to use regulatory agencies to micromanage how private businesses set prices will have the same result: shortages, fewer choices for consumers, a weaker economy, and less jobs,” the U.S. Chamber of Commerce’s Neil Bradley \u003ca href=\"https://www.uschamber.com/finance/antitrust/u-s-chamber-white-house-strike-force-an-attempt-to-return-to-government-price-controls\">said about Biden’s strike force\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>What about potato chips?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Now, on the matter of shrinkflation in potato chips specifically?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One company, \u003ca href=\"https://www.fritolay.com/brands\">Frito-Lay\u003c/a>, makes many of the most popular chips: Lay’s, Doritos, Cheetos, Fritos, Ruffles, Tostitos, SunChips, Stacey’s chips and chip-adjacent Funyuns. The firm is owned by Pepsi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Frito-Lay’s representatives did not respond to NPR’s question about whether — or when — the company planned to add more chips to each bag.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/news/11978745/why-biden-discussed-shrinkflation-and-called-out-skimpy-bags-of-potato-chips","authors":["byline_news_11978745"],"categories":["news_8"],"tags":["news_333","news_27683","news_30877","news_717","news_17968"],"affiliates":["news_253"],"featImg":"news_11978746","label":"news_253"},"news_11976913":{"type":"posts","id":"news_11976913","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"news","id":"11976913","score":null,"sort":[1708725609000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"farm-to-desk-how-this-school-district-is-getting-fresh-produce-to-students","title":"Farm-to-Desk? How This School District Is Getting Fresh Produce to Students","publishDate":1708725609,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Farm-to-Desk? How This School District Is Getting Fresh Produce to Students | KQED","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>When the end-of-school bell rang, groups of students, parents and community members headed for the on-campus farmers market displaying plump green vegetables, potted seedlings and even boxes of free food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reflecting the community’s diversity, signs in the booths advertised crops not often seen in mainstream grocery stores, such as chijimisai (a hybrid Asian green that’s packed with nutrients) and other items popular with Asian or Latino families, alongside the standard fare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As adults bagged and paid for the produce or helped themselves to any free items, young children questioned the farmers about how much water or sunshine a plant needs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, when after-school activities ended, more parents and their student-athletes, many still wearing their game uniforms, joined the crowd in the schoolyard at Fort Miller Middle School in Fresno on Feb. 5 — one of a number of farmers markets being held on Fresno Unified campuses this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fresno Unified contracted with Fresno Metro Ministry, a nonprofit organization, to bring farmers markets to schools and increase access to fresh, healthy and affordable food in neighborhoods where it’s not easy to come by.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fresno Unified and Fresno Metro Ministry leaders say the partnership is important for students, families and the community. Here’s how:\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Why start the program?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Much of Fresno is a \u003ca class=\"external\" href=\"https://foodispower.org/access-health/food-deserts/#:~:text=Food%20deserts%20can%20be%20described,stores%20within%20convenient%20traveling%20distance.\">food desert\u003c/a>, lacking access to affordable, healthy food due to an absence of nearby grocery stores or a\u003ca class=\"external\" href=\"https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/food-swamps\"> food swamp\u003c/a> with better access to junk food than nutritious food options, said Amanda Harvey, director of nutrition services with Fresno Unified.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bringing farmers markets to schools within a food desert or swamp — which mostly exist in predominantly Black and brown neighborhoods — provides access to nutritious food.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Is this the first time Fresno Unified has put farmers markets on its campuses?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>In the past, the district has hosted farmers markets sponsored and run through community partnerships, Harvey said, but the partnership with Fresno Metro Ministry is run with the school district.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The big difference is that through the new partnership, Fresno Unified students and staff will learn how to operate the markets, said Chris De León, the farm and gardens program manager with Fresno Metro Ministry.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Why partner with Fresno Metro Ministry?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Fresno Metro Ministry creates school and community gardens at locations throughout Fresno to educate the community about gardening and \u003ca class=\"external\" href=\"https://www.fresnometmin.org/Farm-and-gardens\">provides land access\u003c/a> and other resources for beginning farmers and community members to grow fresh, local produce in food-insecure neighborhoods. De León said it was a “no-brainer” for the organization to partner with the school district to engage students and bring farmers to school campuses.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>What’s sold at the markets?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The Fresno Unified partnership is funded, in part, through a grant from the California Department of Food and Agriculture that requires the farmers market to sell \u003ca class=\"external\" href=\"https://www.ams.usda.gov/services/grants/scbgp/specialty-crop\">specialty crops\u003c/a>, such as apricots, avocados, asparagus, beans, blueberries, broccoli, cabbage, carrots and other fruits and vegetables, as well as tree nuts, herbs and other plants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11976920\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2048px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11976920\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2735-2048x1536-1.jpg\" alt=\"A closeup of farm produce, mostly broccoli and cauliflower.\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1536\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2735-2048x1536-1.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2735-2048x1536-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2735-2048x1536-1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2735-2048x1536-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2735-2048x1536-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2735-2048x1536-1-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Xiong Farm Produce, one of the vendors at the Fort Miller Middle School farmers market, sells Romanesco broccoli. Fresno Unified has been placing farmers markets on its campuses to provide affordable, nutritious food options for families. \u003ccite>(Lasherica Thornton/EdSource)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Crops from different cultural groups, such as Latino and Southeast Asian farmers, can be offered, too. For instance, Casillas Farms and Siembra y Cosecha Farms, managed by Spanish-speaking farmers, and Xiong Farm Produce, which sold Chinese cauliflower, were at the Fort Miller market.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>How does the program impact students?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The farmers markets are meant to be student-led.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Students learn how to seek out farmers, work with market vendors, organize, then promote the upcoming event and set up the market, Harvey said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Students can even earn food safety and handling certifications, an experience Harvey called a “resume-builder.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The farmers market itself highlights and promotes student clubs and district programs, especially activities related to agriculture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Harvey said schools give students the autonomy to come up with ideas for the markets: “What do they want to see in their event?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11976921\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2048px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11976921\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2724-2048x1481-1.jpg\" alt=\"People at a farmers market stall under a blue awning.\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1481\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2724-2048x1481-1.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2724-2048x1481-1-800x579.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2724-2048x1481-1-1020x738.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2724-2048x1481-1-160x116.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2724-2048x1481-1-1536x1111.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2724-2048x1481-1-1920x1388.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A community member and a student visit a booth run by a middle school ethnic studies class selling herbal plants. \u003ccite>(Lasherica Thornton/EdSource)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Eighth graders Lilly Blanco and Andrea Morgan (who managed a booth selling herbal plants) pointed out to shoppers how enslaved Africans used herbs, a topic they’re exploring in their ethnic studies class. Aloe vera was used to treat burns and inflammation, and mullein could treat whooping cough, chronic bronchitis and congestion, Morgan said about the research she and her classmates conducted and published in pamphlets for the market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The farmers market allows students to sell, feature or display products, such as the ethnic studies class selling herbal plants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“They’ve been really excited planting their own herbs,” Morgan said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having students lead, plan and facilitate the events puts them at the forefront, gives them a voice and teaches them responsibility, said Yang Soua Fang, a farm and gardens project manager with Fresno Metro Ministry.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>How is it beneficial for families?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>While picking up her daughter from a basketball game at Fort Miller, Chelsi Allen expressed how convenient it was for her, a mother of five, to be able to shop while on campus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote align=\"right\" size=\"medium\" citation=\"Chelsi Allen, mother of a student\"]‘Being at the school setting, I never thought about it. It just feels right to get some healthy foods and go home and cook.’[/pullquote]“Being at the school setting,” Allen said, “I never thought about it. It just feels right to get some healthy foods and go home and cook.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Allen, whose children attend Holy Cross Junior High, a private school in Fresno, said that what Fresno Unified is doing gives families affordable access to items needed for a balanced meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She pointed out the stark difference between the convenience of the school farmers market and a grocery store, where most people shop for specifics and may not seek out healthy food options that aren’t “in your face” like those at the farmers market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We get to serve our students every day,” said Harvey, the district’s nutrition services director, “but to be able to also bring nutritious meals to our adults in our community is huge.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Will the school district do anything differently?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>During the markets, the Fresno Metro Ministry can offer food demonstrations to show families ways to serve the farm-grown produce. The food demos weren’t available at the Fort Miller market on Feb. 5, but Fresno Unified plans to do its part to promote nutritious food options to families.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote align=\"right\" size=\"medium\" citation=\"Amanda Harvey, director of nutrition services, Fresno Unified\"]‘The more familiar students are with them, the more likely they are to ask for them at home. ‘I had this item at lunch; it was delicious. Let’s buy it.”[/pullquote]Harvey said the district’s nutrition team can obtain participants’ input on introducing products into the food students eat in school.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Is this something you’d be interested in seeing on school menus?” a survey asked farmers market attendants about kale.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The more familiar students are with them, the more likely they are to ask for them at home,” she said. “‘I had this item at lunch; it was delicious. Let’s buy it.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>What else do markets mean for families, school and community?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The farmers market also “puts a face to produce,” De León said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s so much: ‘What is this? How did you grow it? How do you cook it?’” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He said he believes those conversations will build relationships between farmers and families, leading to more awareness and a better understanding of the importance of local farming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside label=\"Related Stories\" postID=\"forum_2010101904432,forum_2010101894562,forum_2010101895266\"]Patricia Hubbard is a farmer who grows produce at Fresno Metro Ministry’s \u003ca class=\"external\" href=\"https://www.facebook.com/permaculturefresno/\">Yo’Ville Community Garden & Farm\u003c/a> behind the Yosemite Village housing complex.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the Fort Miller market, Hubbard sold starter plants of sweet peas and kale, including Ethiopian and Portuguese kale. The products are easy-to-grow plants that can hold kids’ interest in growing their own vegetables, Hubbard said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We need young people farming,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The farmers market can pique that interest while changing the narrative about farmworkers, Soua Fang said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s such a negative stereotype to being a farmworker or laborer, but yet their contribution to our society is so important for us: That’s how we can sustain ourselves,” he said. “But … it’s like we put them at the bottom of the pedestal.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Connecting and engaging with farmers places value and respect in their craft, especially when they share how they overcome barriers to becoming farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Are there more markets?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>With plans for different schools to host markets on a monthly or quarterly basis, Fresno Unified and Fresno Metro Ministry hope to set up about 15 farmers markets on campuses this school year. In addition to the Fort Miller market, Phoenix Secondary Academy held a farmers market in the fall to launch the partnership, and a couple of markets have been held in collaboration with the Fresno High School Flea Market. For the rest of the school year, markets will be at:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Fort Miller Middle School on the first Monday of each month. The March 4 market has been rescheduled for March 18.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fresno High School on the second Saturday of each month.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>McLane High School, which is still planning dates but has confirmed April 6 for its first market.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>[pullquote align=\"right\" size=\"medium\" citation=\"Soua Fang\"]‘There’s such a negative stereotype to being a farmworker or laborer, but yet their contribution to our society is so important for us: That’s how we can sustain ourselves.’[/pullquote]Some of the designated schools are located in the middle of food deserts or serve high numbers of students experiencing food insecurity, Soua Fang said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At other Fresno Unified schools where there may be agricultural programs offering gardening and farming, Fresno Metro Ministry hopes to “fill the last little gap” by creating a culture around farmers markets. At the Fresno High Flea Market, De León said the organization adds healthy food access to an already thriving market “to connect that bridge from community to school, so it’s not so separate.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Schools interested in hosting a farmers market should reach out to Fresno Metro Ministry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To host a farmers market, schools can contact De León at \u003ca href=\"mailto:chris@fresnometmin.org\">chris@fresnometmin.org\u003c/a> or Soua Fang at \u003ca href=\"mailto:yang@fresnometmin.org\">yang@fresnometmin.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Allen, the mother who attended the Fort Miller market in early February, said, “More schools should do this.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://edsource.org/2024/farmers-markets-in-this-school-district-provide-access-to-healthy-food-options/706070\">\u003cem>This story originally appeared in EdSource.\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Fresno Unified contracted with Fresno Metro Ministry, a nonprofit organization, to bring farmers markets to schools and increase access to fresh, healthy and affordable food.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1708733346,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":49,"wordCount":1878},"headData":{"title":"Farm-to-Desk? How This School District Is Getting Fresh Produce to Students | KQED","description":"Fresno Unified contracted with Fresno Metro Ministry, a nonprofit organization, to bring farmers markets to schools and increase access to fresh, healthy and affordable food.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"source":"edsource","sourceUrl":"https://edsource.org/","sticky":false,"nprByline":"\u003ca href=\"https://edsource.org/author/lthornton\">Lasherica Thornton\u003c/a>","excludeFromSiteSearch":"Include","showOnAuthorArchivePages":"No","articleAge":"0","path":"/news/11976913/farm-to-desk-how-this-school-district-is-getting-fresh-produce-to-students","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When the end-of-school bell rang, groups of students, parents and community members headed for the on-campus farmers market displaying plump green vegetables, potted seedlings and even boxes of free food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reflecting the community’s diversity, signs in the booths advertised crops not often seen in mainstream grocery stores, such as chijimisai (a hybrid Asian green that’s packed with nutrients) and other items popular with Asian or Latino families, alongside the standard fare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As adults bagged and paid for the produce or helped themselves to any free items, young children questioned the farmers about how much water or sunshine a plant needs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, when after-school activities ended, more parents and their student-athletes, many still wearing their game uniforms, joined the crowd in the schoolyard at Fort Miller Middle School in Fresno on Feb. 5 — one of a number of farmers markets being held on Fresno Unified campuses this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fresno Unified contracted with Fresno Metro Ministry, a nonprofit organization, to bring farmers markets to schools and increase access to fresh, healthy and affordable food in neighborhoods where it’s not easy to come by.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fresno Unified and Fresno Metro Ministry leaders say the partnership is important for students, families and the community. Here’s how:\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Why start the program?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Much of Fresno is a \u003ca class=\"external\" href=\"https://foodispower.org/access-health/food-deserts/#:~:text=Food%20deserts%20can%20be%20described,stores%20within%20convenient%20traveling%20distance.\">food desert\u003c/a>, lacking access to affordable, healthy food due to an absence of nearby grocery stores or a\u003ca class=\"external\" href=\"https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/food-swamps\"> food swamp\u003c/a> with better access to junk food than nutritious food options, said Amanda Harvey, director of nutrition services with Fresno Unified.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bringing farmers markets to schools within a food desert or swamp — which mostly exist in predominantly Black and brown neighborhoods — provides access to nutritious food.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Is this the first time Fresno Unified has put farmers markets on its campuses?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>In the past, the district has hosted farmers markets sponsored and run through community partnerships, Harvey said, but the partnership with Fresno Metro Ministry is run with the school district.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The big difference is that through the new partnership, Fresno Unified students and staff will learn how to operate the markets, said Chris De León, the farm and gardens program manager with Fresno Metro Ministry.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Why partner with Fresno Metro Ministry?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Fresno Metro Ministry creates school and community gardens at locations throughout Fresno to educate the community about gardening and \u003ca class=\"external\" href=\"https://www.fresnometmin.org/Farm-and-gardens\">provides land access\u003c/a> and other resources for beginning farmers and community members to grow fresh, local produce in food-insecure neighborhoods. De León said it was a “no-brainer” for the organization to partner with the school district to engage students and bring farmers to school campuses.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>What’s sold at the markets?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The Fresno Unified partnership is funded, in part, through a grant from the California Department of Food and Agriculture that requires the farmers market to sell \u003ca class=\"external\" href=\"https://www.ams.usda.gov/services/grants/scbgp/specialty-crop\">specialty crops\u003c/a>, such as apricots, avocados, asparagus, beans, blueberries, broccoli, cabbage, carrots and other fruits and vegetables, as well as tree nuts, herbs and other plants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11976920\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2048px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11976920\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2735-2048x1536-1.jpg\" alt=\"A closeup of farm produce, mostly broccoli and cauliflower.\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1536\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2735-2048x1536-1.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2735-2048x1536-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2735-2048x1536-1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2735-2048x1536-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2735-2048x1536-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2735-2048x1536-1-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Xiong Farm Produce, one of the vendors at the Fort Miller Middle School farmers market, sells Romanesco broccoli. Fresno Unified has been placing farmers markets on its campuses to provide affordable, nutritious food options for families. \u003ccite>(Lasherica Thornton/EdSource)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Crops from different cultural groups, such as Latino and Southeast Asian farmers, can be offered, too. For instance, Casillas Farms and Siembra y Cosecha Farms, managed by Spanish-speaking farmers, and Xiong Farm Produce, which sold Chinese cauliflower, were at the Fort Miller market.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>How does the program impact students?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The farmers markets are meant to be student-led.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Students learn how to seek out farmers, work with market vendors, organize, then promote the upcoming event and set up the market, Harvey said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Students can even earn food safety and handling certifications, an experience Harvey called a “resume-builder.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The farmers market itself highlights and promotes student clubs and district programs, especially activities related to agriculture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Harvey said schools give students the autonomy to come up with ideas for the markets: “What do they want to see in their event?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11976921\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 2048px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11976921\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2724-2048x1481-1.jpg\" alt=\"People at a farmers market stall under a blue awning.\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1481\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2724-2048x1481-1.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2724-2048x1481-1-800x579.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2724-2048x1481-1-1020x738.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2724-2048x1481-1-160x116.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2724-2048x1481-1-1536x1111.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/02/IMG_2724-2048x1481-1-1920x1388.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A community member and a student visit a booth run by a middle school ethnic studies class selling herbal plants. \u003ccite>(Lasherica Thornton/EdSource)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Eighth graders Lilly Blanco and Andrea Morgan (who managed a booth selling herbal plants) pointed out to shoppers how enslaved Africans used herbs, a topic they’re exploring in their ethnic studies class. Aloe vera was used to treat burns and inflammation, and mullein could treat whooping cough, chronic bronchitis and congestion, Morgan said about the research she and her classmates conducted and published in pamphlets for the market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The farmers market allows students to sell, feature or display products, such as the ethnic studies class selling herbal plants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“They’ve been really excited planting their own herbs,” Morgan said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having students lead, plan and facilitate the events puts them at the forefront, gives them a voice and teaches them responsibility, said Yang Soua Fang, a farm and gardens project manager with Fresno Metro Ministry.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>How is it beneficial for families?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>While picking up her daughter from a basketball game at Fort Miller, Chelsi Allen expressed how convenient it was for her, a mother of five, to be able to shop while on campus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"‘Being at the school setting, I never thought about it. It just feels right to get some healthy foods and go home and cook.’","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"align":"right","size":"medium","citation":"Chelsi Allen, mother of a student","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“Being at the school setting,” Allen said, “I never thought about it. It just feels right to get some healthy foods and go home and cook.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Allen, whose children attend Holy Cross Junior High, a private school in Fresno, said that what Fresno Unified is doing gives families affordable access to items needed for a balanced meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She pointed out the stark difference between the convenience of the school farmers market and a grocery store, where most people shop for specifics and may not seek out healthy food options that aren’t “in your face” like those at the farmers market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We get to serve our students every day,” said Harvey, the district’s nutrition services director, “but to be able to also bring nutritious meals to our adults in our community is huge.”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Will the school district do anything differently?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>During the markets, the Fresno Metro Ministry can offer food demonstrations to show families ways to serve the farm-grown produce. The food demos weren’t available at the Fort Miller market on Feb. 5, but Fresno Unified plans to do its part to promote nutritious food options to families.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"‘The more familiar students are with them, the more likely they are to ask for them at home. ‘I had this item at lunch; it was delicious. Let’s buy it.”","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"align":"right","size":"medium","citation":"Amanda Harvey, director of nutrition services, Fresno Unified","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Harvey said the district’s nutrition team can obtain participants’ input on introducing products into the food students eat in school.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Is this something you’d be interested in seeing on school menus?” a survey asked farmers market attendants about kale.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The more familiar students are with them, the more likely they are to ask for them at home,” she said. “‘I had this item at lunch; it was delicious. Let’s buy it.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>What else do markets mean for families, school and community?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The farmers market also “puts a face to produce,” De León said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s so much: ‘What is this? How did you grow it? How do you cook it?’” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He said he believes those conversations will build relationships between farmers and families, leading to more awareness and a better understanding of the importance of local farming.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"label":"Related Stories ","postid":"forum_2010101904432,forum_2010101894562,forum_2010101895266"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Patricia Hubbard is a farmer who grows produce at Fresno Metro Ministry’s \u003ca class=\"external\" href=\"https://www.facebook.com/permaculturefresno/\">Yo’Ville Community Garden & Farm\u003c/a> behind the Yosemite Village housing complex.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the Fort Miller market, Hubbard sold starter plants of sweet peas and kale, including Ethiopian and Portuguese kale. The products are easy-to-grow plants that can hold kids’ interest in growing their own vegetables, Hubbard said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We need young people farming,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The farmers market can pique that interest while changing the narrative about farmworkers, Soua Fang said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s such a negative stereotype to being a farmworker or laborer, but yet their contribution to our society is so important for us: That’s how we can sustain ourselves,” he said. “But … it’s like we put them at the bottom of the pedestal.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Connecting and engaging with farmers places value and respect in their craft, especially when they share how they overcome barriers to becoming farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Are there more markets?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>With plans for different schools to host markets on a monthly or quarterly basis, Fresno Unified and Fresno Metro Ministry hope to set up about 15 farmers markets on campuses this school year. In addition to the Fort Miller market, Phoenix Secondary Academy held a farmers market in the fall to launch the partnership, and a couple of markets have been held in collaboration with the Fresno High School Flea Market. For the rest of the school year, markets will be at:\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>Fort Miller Middle School on the first Monday of each month. The March 4 market has been rescheduled for March 18.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Fresno High School on the second Saturday of each month.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>McLane High School, which is still planning dates but has confirmed April 6 for its first market.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"‘There’s such a negative stereotype to being a farmworker or laborer, but yet their contribution to our society is so important for us: That’s how we can sustain ourselves.’","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"align":"right","size":"medium","citation":"Soua Fang","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Some of the designated schools are located in the middle of food deserts or serve high numbers of students experiencing food insecurity, Soua Fang said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At other Fresno Unified schools where there may be agricultural programs offering gardening and farming, Fresno Metro Ministry hopes to “fill the last little gap” by creating a culture around farmers markets. At the Fresno High Flea Market, De León said the organization adds healthy food access to an already thriving market “to connect that bridge from community to school, so it’s not so separate.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Schools interested in hosting a farmers market should reach out to Fresno Metro Ministry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To host a farmers market, schools can contact De León at \u003ca href=\"mailto:chris@fresnometmin.org\">chris@fresnometmin.org\u003c/a> or Soua Fang at \u003ca href=\"mailto:yang@fresnometmin.org\">yang@fresnometmin.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Allen, the mother who attended the Fort Miller market in early February, said, “More schools should do this.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://edsource.org/2024/farmers-markets-in-this-school-district-provide-access-to-healthy-food-options/706070\">\u003cem>This story originally appeared in EdSource.\u003c/em>\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/news/11976913/farm-to-desk-how-this-school-district-is-getting-fresh-produce-to-students","authors":["byline_news_11976913"],"categories":["news_18540","news_8"],"tags":["news_20013","news_22045","news_27626","news_333"],"affiliates":["news_33681"],"featImg":"news_11976918","label":"source_news_11976913"},"news_11975743":{"type":"posts","id":"news_11975743","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"news","id":"11975743","score":null,"sort":[1708084830000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"las-be-u-puts-a-new-spin-on-vietnamese-takeout-and-workers-rights","title":"LA's Bé Ù Puts a New Spin on Vietnamese Takeout and Workers' Rights","publishDate":1708084830,"format":"audio","headTitle":"LA’s Bé Ù Puts a New Spin on Vietnamese Takeout and Workers’ Rights | KQED","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>Uyên Lê has always loved food. That’s clear from the moment you step into \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/beukitchen/?hl=en\">Bé Ù\u003c/a>, her tiny takeout restaurant in Silver Lake, where she serves up traditional items, like bánh mì, caramelized pork and eggs, spring rolls and rice noodle plates. Her weekend specials are often based on recipe ideas from her family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Okay, which cousin is the best at the crispy pork skin?” Lê laughed. “Let me reach out to [see] which aunty knows how to make handmade noodles the best.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11960456\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11960456\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8640-LJ-KQED-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A restaurant with a blue facade on a city street.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8640-LJ-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8640-LJ-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8640-LJ-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8640-LJ-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8640-LJ-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8640-LJ-KQED.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bé Ù, a Vietnamese restaurant in Los Angeles, on Sept. 7, 2023. \u003ccite>(Lauren Justice for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Born in Vietnam, Lê and her family immigrated to Southern California in 1991 when she was seven. The transition to a new life in a new language was a challenge, especially for her parents. But Lê loved growing up surrounded by so much family in West Covina.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We all stayed in one room together, my cousins, my sister and my brother. And I remember it just really being a blast,” she said. “It was like a slumber party every day. I remember thinking, ‘This is so fun to have your family around you all the time. It’s just like in Vietnam.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size=\"medium\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Uyên Lê, owner of Bé Ù\"]‘I’m not going to feed somebody something less because it’s cheaper. I’m going to do the right thing because this is where my pride comes from.’[/pullquote]Lê remembers her uncle serving up Mì Quảng, a rice noodle soup with a thick broth, at family gatherings. “ I have just these core memories of food and what motivates me to cook food,” she said. “And it’s definitely family gatherings. When I say family gathering, it’s at a minimum, 50 people. And if the family members bring their friends, that’s 100 plus.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After watching her relatives cook for such big groups, Lê dreamed of one day owning her own restaurant — one that family recipes and the eclectic food scene in the San Gabriel Valley would inspire. But that dream would take years and a pandemic to set in motion.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The First Ingredient: Community Organizing\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>During her final year at UC Berkeley in 2005, Lê found herself drawn to social and environmental justice issues. She traveled to the Gulf Coast, where she helped the Vietnamese community recover from Hurricane Katrina. That led to pursuing a master’s degree and eventually working with the UCLA Labor Center. Her work there focused on advocacy for worker’s rights, particularly day laborers and other low-wage workers in dangerous occupations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I worked to ensure that these jobs led to long-term apprenticeable careers for workers while also helping local businesses generate sustainable economic opportunities,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lê eventually started to get burned out on community organizing work, though, and her love for cooking reemerged. So, she quit her job with an electrician’s union in 2016 to finally pursue a career in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11960453\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11960453\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8487-LJ-KQED-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A person fills loaves of bread with meat and vegetables.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8487-LJ-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8487-LJ-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8487-LJ-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8487-LJ-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8487-LJ-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8487-LJ-KQED.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Freddy Ward, line cook, prepares bánh mì’s at Bé Ù, a Vietnamese restaurant in Los Angeles, on Sept. 7, 2023. \u003ccite>(Lauren Justice for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Pivoting to Cooking\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>When Lê quit her union job, her initial hope was to create a Vietnamese food business that would not only be focused on the food she grew up with but also set a model for better pay and health benefits in L.A.’s restaurant industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But first, she had to learn the business. She got her feet wet working back of house as a cook in kitchens — including stints at \u003ca href=\"https://www.cassiala.com/\">Cassia\u003c/a> in Santa Monica and \u003ca href=\"https://www.buttonmashla.com/\">Button Mash\u003c/a> in the Echo Park neighborhood of Los Angeles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, an opportunity arose early in the pandemic that she couldn’t pass up. A location for a tiny restaurant opened up in a neighborhood she used to live in, on a mostly residential stretch of Hoover Street on the border of East Hollywood and Silver Lake. Her idea for the small space was to initially start as takeout only, especially since it was the height of the pandemic. She did some remodeling, and Bé Ù opened its doors in February of 2021.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11960455\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11960455\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8546-LJ-KQED-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Two people exchange something through a window at the front of a storefront.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8546-LJ-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8546-LJ-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8546-LJ-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8546-LJ-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8546-LJ-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8546-LJ-KQED.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Front-of-house cashier Janet Todd takes carryout orders at Bé Ù, a Vietnamese restaurant in Los Angeles, on Sept. 7, 2023. \u003ccite>(Lauren Justice for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Lê said she had plenty of apprehension opening during a global pandemic, especially given supply chain issues, inflation raising the price of ingredients, employees getting COVID-19, and the threat of new shutdowns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She was also committed, though, to paying her workers well above minimum wage. These days, that means $20 an hour, plus tips, to start — even though that’s a stretch for such a small operation. She’d love to increase wages even more and provide low-cost group plans for health insurance. But with such small profit margins, it’s still a work in progress.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’ve been able to pay my staff. I’ve been able to pay my rent. And I’ve got some vendors who are nice, who are willing to extend credit out a little bit longer,” Lê said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But inflation has forced her to raise prices on menu items.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I had a lot of heartburn around it because I do want to keep things affordable in this rent-controlled neighborhood,” she said. “I do see this as a time when a lot of other people are struggling.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But she also wants to maintain the integrity of her cooking, with almost all of her menu items made from scratch. “I’m not going to feed somebody something less because it’s cheaper. I’m going to do the right thing because this is where my pride comes from,” Lê said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11960451\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11960451\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8391-LJ-KQED-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Takeout boxes filled with meat and vegetable dishes.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8391-LJ-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8391-LJ-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8391-LJ-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8391-LJ-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8391-LJ-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8391-LJ-KQED.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Rice Noodle dish at Bé Ù, a Vietnamese restaurant in Los Angeles, on Sept. 7, 2023. \u003ccite>(Lauren Justice for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Trying to put equity into practice while still paying the bills\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>As she celebrates the three-year-anniversary of Bé Ù, Lê said she appreciates the support from the neighborhood and frequent customers. But she knows she has to figure out an expanded business plan to support a restaurant focused on both good cooking and workers’ rights.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her latest idea is to open a marketplace and restaurant. It would change the supply chain model, highlighting the products of indigenous communities in Vietnam and building a distribution pipeline for sustainably grown ingredients like tea and rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside tag=\"flavor-profile, food\" label=\"More Related Stories\"]“So many of the products that are on shelves now aren’t necessarily sustainable over the long term. [In terms of] how they’re produced, in terms of who’s profiting from them, in terms of how the ecology of the places is impacted,” she said. “And so the idea is [to] work with folks in Vietnam, but also local vendors and suppliers in our Southern California region.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pandemic highlighted age-old questions that so many restaurant owners face. Should we raise prices and possibly turn off customers? How do we pay employees more livable wages? And how do we survive to turn a profit?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lê is determined to keep cooking up her popcorn chicken and rice porridge in a place where employees want to come to work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Uyên Lê has always loved food. That’s clear from the moment you step into Bé Ù, her tiny takeout restaurant in Silver Lake, where she serves up traditional items, like bánh mì, caramelized pork and rice noodle plates.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1707960518,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":25,"wordCount":1316},"headData":{"title":"LA's Bé Ù Puts a New Spin on Vietnamese Takeout and Workers' Rights | KQED","description":"Uyên Lê has always loved food. That’s clear from the moment you step into Bé Ù, her tiny takeout restaurant in Silver Lake, where she serves up traditional items, like bánh mì, caramelized pork and rice noodle plates.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"source":"Food","sourceUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/food","audioUrl":"https://traffic.omny.fm/d/clips/0af137ef-751e-4b19-a055-aaef00d2d578/ffca7e9f-6831-4[…]f-aaef00f5a073/eac575bb-f9eb-4083-b7f4-b1150167d27c/audio.mp3","sticky":false,"excludeFromSiteSearch":"Include","articleAge":"0","path":"/news/11975743/las-be-u-puts-a-new-spin-on-vietnamese-takeout-and-workers-rights","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Uyên Lê has always loved food. That’s clear from the moment you step into \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/beukitchen/?hl=en\">Bé Ù\u003c/a>, her tiny takeout restaurant in Silver Lake, where she serves up traditional items, like bánh mì, caramelized pork and eggs, spring rolls and rice noodle plates. Her weekend specials are often based on recipe ideas from her family.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Okay, which cousin is the best at the crispy pork skin?” Lê laughed. “Let me reach out to [see] which aunty knows how to make handmade noodles the best.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11960456\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11960456\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8640-LJ-KQED-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A restaurant with a blue facade on a city street.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8640-LJ-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8640-LJ-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8640-LJ-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8640-LJ-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8640-LJ-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8640-LJ-KQED.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bé Ù, a Vietnamese restaurant in Los Angeles, on Sept. 7, 2023. \u003ccite>(Lauren Justice for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Born in Vietnam, Lê and her family immigrated to Southern California in 1991 when she was seven. The transition to a new life in a new language was a challenge, especially for her parents. But Lê loved growing up surrounded by so much family in West Covina.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We all stayed in one room together, my cousins, my sister and my brother. And I remember it just really being a blast,” she said. “It was like a slumber party every day. I remember thinking, ‘This is so fun to have your family around you all the time. It’s just like in Vietnam.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"‘I’m not going to feed somebody something less because it’s cheaper. I’m going to do the right thing because this is where my pride comes from.’","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"medium","align":"right","citation":"Uyên Lê, owner of Bé Ù","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Lê remembers her uncle serving up Mì Quảng, a rice noodle soup with a thick broth, at family gatherings. “ I have just these core memories of food and what motivates me to cook food,” she said. “And it’s definitely family gatherings. When I say family gathering, it’s at a minimum, 50 people. And if the family members bring their friends, that’s 100 plus.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After watching her relatives cook for such big groups, Lê dreamed of one day owning her own restaurant — one that family recipes and the eclectic food scene in the San Gabriel Valley would inspire. But that dream would take years and a pandemic to set in motion.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The First Ingredient: Community Organizing\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>During her final year at UC Berkeley in 2005, Lê found herself drawn to social and environmental justice issues. She traveled to the Gulf Coast, where she helped the Vietnamese community recover from Hurricane Katrina. That led to pursuing a master’s degree and eventually working with the UCLA Labor Center. Her work there focused on advocacy for worker’s rights, particularly day laborers and other low-wage workers in dangerous occupations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I worked to ensure that these jobs led to long-term apprenticeable careers for workers while also helping local businesses generate sustainable economic opportunities,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lê eventually started to get burned out on community organizing work, though, and her love for cooking reemerged. So, she quit her job with an electrician’s union in 2016 to finally pursue a career in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11960453\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11960453\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8487-LJ-KQED-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A person fills loaves of bread with meat and vegetables.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8487-LJ-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8487-LJ-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8487-LJ-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8487-LJ-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8487-LJ-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8487-LJ-KQED.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Freddy Ward, line cook, prepares bánh mì’s at Bé Ù, a Vietnamese restaurant in Los Angeles, on Sept. 7, 2023. \u003ccite>(Lauren Justice for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Pivoting to Cooking\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>When Lê quit her union job, her initial hope was to create a Vietnamese food business that would not only be focused on the food she grew up with but also set a model for better pay and health benefits in L.A.’s restaurant industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But first, she had to learn the business. She got her feet wet working back of house as a cook in kitchens — including stints at \u003ca href=\"https://www.cassiala.com/\">Cassia\u003c/a> in Santa Monica and \u003ca href=\"https://www.buttonmashla.com/\">Button Mash\u003c/a> in the Echo Park neighborhood of Los Angeles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, an opportunity arose early in the pandemic that she couldn’t pass up. A location for a tiny restaurant opened up in a neighborhood she used to live in, on a mostly residential stretch of Hoover Street on the border of East Hollywood and Silver Lake. Her idea for the small space was to initially start as takeout only, especially since it was the height of the pandemic. She did some remodeling, and Bé Ù opened its doors in February of 2021.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11960455\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11960455\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8546-LJ-KQED-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Two people exchange something through a window at the front of a storefront.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8546-LJ-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8546-LJ-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8546-LJ-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8546-LJ-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8546-LJ-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8546-LJ-KQED.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Front-of-house cashier Janet Todd takes carryout orders at Bé Ù, a Vietnamese restaurant in Los Angeles, on Sept. 7, 2023. \u003ccite>(Lauren Justice for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Lê said she had plenty of apprehension opening during a global pandemic, especially given supply chain issues, inflation raising the price of ingredients, employees getting COVID-19, and the threat of new shutdowns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She was also committed, though, to paying her workers well above minimum wage. These days, that means $20 an hour, plus tips, to start — even though that’s a stretch for such a small operation. She’d love to increase wages even more and provide low-cost group plans for health insurance. But with such small profit margins, it’s still a work in progress.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’ve been able to pay my staff. I’ve been able to pay my rent. And I’ve got some vendors who are nice, who are willing to extend credit out a little bit longer,” Lê said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But inflation has forced her to raise prices on menu items.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I had a lot of heartburn around it because I do want to keep things affordable in this rent-controlled neighborhood,” she said. “I do see this as a time when a lot of other people are struggling.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But she also wants to maintain the integrity of her cooking, with almost all of her menu items made from scratch. “I’m not going to feed somebody something less because it’s cheaper. I’m going to do the right thing because this is where my pride comes from,” Lê said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11960451\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11960451\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8391-LJ-KQED-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Takeout boxes filled with meat and vegetable dishes.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8391-LJ-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8391-LJ-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8391-LJ-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8391-LJ-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8391-LJ-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/09/090723_BeU_8391-LJ-KQED.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Rice Noodle dish at Bé Ù, a Vietnamese restaurant in Los Angeles, on Sept. 7, 2023. \u003ccite>(Lauren Justice for KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Trying to put equity into practice while still paying the bills\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>As she celebrates the three-year-anniversary of Bé Ù, Lê said she appreciates the support from the neighborhood and frequent customers. But she knows she has to figure out an expanded business plan to support a restaurant focused on both good cooking and workers’ rights.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her latest idea is to open a marketplace and restaurant. It would change the supply chain model, highlighting the products of indigenous communities in Vietnam and building a distribution pipeline for sustainably grown ingredients like tea and rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"flavor-profile, food","label":"More Related Stories "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“So many of the products that are on shelves now aren’t necessarily sustainable over the long term. [In terms of] how they’re produced, in terms of who’s profiting from them, in terms of how the ecology of the places is impacted,” she said. “And so the idea is [to] work with folks in Vietnam, but also local vendors and suppliers in our Southern California region.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pandemic highlighted age-old questions that so many restaurant owners face. Should we raise prices and possibly turn off customers? How do we pay employees more livable wages? And how do we survive to turn a profit?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lê is determined to keep cooking up her popcorn chicken and rice porridge in a place where employees want to come to work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/news/11975743/las-be-u-puts-a-new-spin-on-vietnamese-takeout-and-workers-rights","authors":["11739"],"programs":["news_72","news_26731"],"categories":["news_31795","news_24114","news_28250","news_8"],"tags":["news_27626","news_32866","news_333","news_17286","news_22018","news_22604"],"featImg":"news_11960454","label":"source_news_11975743"},"news_11973699":{"type":"posts","id":"news_11973699","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"news","id":"11973699","score":null,"sort":[1706283044000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"this-stockton-park-is-a-weekend-haven-for-hmong-and-cambodian-bites","title":"This Stockton Park Is a Weekend Haven for Hmong and Cambodian Bites","publishDate":1706283044,"format":"standard","headTitle":"This Stockton Park Is a Weekend Haven for Hmong and Cambodian Bites | KQED","labelTerm":{"term":26731,"site":"news"},"content":"\u003cp>At first glance, Angel Cruz Park on the northern end of Stockton doesn’t appear extraordinary — there are tennis courts, a softball field, a playground and picnic tables. But along the southern end, the air is filled with wafts of smoke, the smell of grilled meats and karaoke tracks booming out of speakers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For more than 30 years, especially on weekends, Angel Cruz Park has been a destination for made-to-order dishes created by local food vendors, many of whom are Hmong and Cambodian immigrants. Locals argue over who has the best beef sticks or papaya salad.[pullquote size=\"medium\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Rotana Lach, food vendor, Angel Cruz Park in Stockton\"]‘I make beef stick, chicken stick, sausage, angel wing, stuffed chicken, lao sausage and papaya salad. I make everything by myself.’[/pullquote]The vendors that make this park a food-lovers destination start their days early. Rotana Lach was the first to arrive on a recent Sunday. At 7 a.m., before she even set up her cooking station, she swept the area clean with a tree branch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a mischievous smile, Lach explained that 15 years ago, when she was first establishing herself as a vendor in this park, she used to show up even earlier, at 2 or 3 in the morning, to stake out this prime spot. That didn’t make her too popular with other vendors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“After that, they get mad at me all the time,” Lach said with a little laugh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She began unloading her car, which was stuffed with folding tables, charcoal and cleaning supplies\u003cem>. \u003c/em>She pulled out coolers full of food she prepped at home in the middle of the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I make beef stick, chicken stick, sausage, angel wing, stuffed chicken, lao sausage and papaya salad,” she said. “I make everything by myself.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lach started cooking as a livelihood in a roundabout way. Growing up in Cambodia, she rejected her family’s efforts to get her to cook, saying it felt too traditional. Born in Battambang in 1974, the chaos of the war in Vietnam and ongoing regional conflicts was all around her.[aside label='More on California Foodways' tag='california-foodways']When she was a little girl, she said, a friend accidentally detonated an explosive near her, leaving her with burn scars that are still painful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Sometimes, it’s like my head hurts,” Lach said. “I cannot control myself, sometimes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few years after the explosion, Lach said her family moved out of the city to cultivate land closer to the Thai border. As she grew older, into her teen years, her family was even more eager for her to learn to cook. They saw it as a necessary skill for her future, but Lach resisted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I tell my stepmom, ‘No, I don’t want to cook,’” Lach said. “When people ask [about] marriage, tell them your daughter [doesn’t] know how to cook.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her plan to delay marriage worked for a while; suitors stopped asking to marry her. But Lach said, eventually, she did marry, and her husband brought her to Stockton, \u003ca href=\"https://www.pewresearch.org/social-trends/fact-sheet/asian-americans-cambodians-in-the-u-s/\">home to one of the largest populations of Cambodians in the country.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11972487\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11972487\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A person wearing a baseball cap smiles while working with food in an park setting.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bopha Om works at her cousin Rotana’s side, making papaya salad to order at Angel Cruz Park on Nov. 12, 2023. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That was 20 years ago, and she’s since divorced that husband. But the difficulty of those early days hasn’t left her. When she arrived in California, she only spoke Khmer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“No writing, no reading,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She didn’t speak any English, so she attended adult school for about five years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooking finally caught up to her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a husband and a growing family, she finally had to learn. At parties, she’d spy on what experienced cooks were doing. She also spent time online watching cooking videos on YouTube.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All that work paid off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, her stall at the Angel Cruz Park food market earns enough money to support her four kids and to send funds back to relatives in Cambodia.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A multigenerational community\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The vendors at this longstanding market represent several different generations within the Southeast Asian community. Many of the longest-standing stalls are run by older folks. Lach falls into the middle category. And then, there are the younger, newer folks, like Steve Kim.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“As a Cambodian American, we’re known for using a lemongrass paste,” Kim said. “[It] has like kaffir lime leaf, garlic, longa, turmeric.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11972484\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11972484\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A person in a baseball cap smiles while standing under a tent in an park setting.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Steve Kim at his stand at Angel Cruz Park on Nov. 12, 2023. Kim started selling three lemonades at the park in the summer of 2023 and has since added Cambodian food, waffles and boba teas to his menu. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Kim’s tent is fancier than the others, with laminated images of the items he sells: lemonades, boba tea, Cambodian food and waffles. The 30-year-old said his stomach led him to start cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“In the fourth grade, I was like, ‘Hey, mom’s always working. Dad is always working. You know, we come [home] after school [and we’re] starving.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He asked his mom to teach him some Cambodian basics — and his cooking evolved from there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After managing restaurants for years and making food videos on TikTok, he started selling at Angel Cruz Park in the summer of 2023. He wanted to see if he could build a customer base before jumping into the financial commitment of a full-fledged restaurant. [pullquote size=\"medium\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Steve Kim, food vendor, Angel Cruz Park\"]‘When the Southeast Asians migrated, they decided to showcase their food and their culture. … this park has grown a lot. The food is cheap; it’s made fresh to order. And it’s like a community event.’[/pullquote]“So once I got my business license all set up, my permits and everything, I was like, ‘Hey, let’s just try it out,’” Kim said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He started with three types of lemonade — strawberry, grapefruit and dragonfruit — and then added more items.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Angel Cruz Park market is a Stockton institution, Kim said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When the Southeast Asians migrated, they decided to showcase their food and their culture,” Kim said. “And since then, this park has grown a lot. The food is cheap; it’s made fresh to order. And it’s like a community event.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He likes that there are multiple generations at the park, elders who established this tradition, and people his age who are expanding on it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You hear a lot of negativity about Stockton, but once you come here and you see it [with] your own eyes, it’s not like that,” Kim said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"For more than 30 years, Angel Cruz Park in Stockton has been a destination for made-to-order dishes created by local food vendors, many of whom are Hmong and Cambodian immigrants. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1706294558,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":31,"wordCount":1178},"headData":{"title":"This Stockton Park Is a Weekend Haven for Hmong and Cambodian Bites | KQED","description":"For more than 30 years, Angel Cruz Park in Stockton has been a destination for made-to-order dishes created by local food vendors, many of whom are Hmong and Cambodian immigrants. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"audioUrl":"https://traffic.omny.fm/d/clips/0af137ef-751e-4b19-a055-aaef00d2d578/ffca7e9f-6831-41c5-bcaf-aaef00f5a073/b1229e45-a72d-4988-81aa-b10101815af7/audio.mp3","sticky":false,"excludeFromSiteSearch":"Include","articleAge":"0","path":"/news/11973699/this-stockton-park-is-a-weekend-haven-for-hmong-and-cambodian-bites","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>At first glance, Angel Cruz Park on the northern end of Stockton doesn’t appear extraordinary — there are tennis courts, a softball field, a playground and picnic tables. But along the southern end, the air is filled with wafts of smoke, the smell of grilled meats and karaoke tracks booming out of speakers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For more than 30 years, especially on weekends, Angel Cruz Park has been a destination for made-to-order dishes created by local food vendors, many of whom are Hmong and Cambodian immigrants. Locals argue over who has the best beef sticks or papaya salad.\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"‘I make beef stick, chicken stick, sausage, angel wing, stuffed chicken, lao sausage and papaya salad. I make everything by myself.’","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"medium","align":"right","citation":"Rotana Lach, food vendor, Angel Cruz Park in Stockton","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>The vendors that make this park a food-lovers destination start their days early. Rotana Lach was the first to arrive on a recent Sunday. At 7 a.m., before she even set up her cooking station, she swept the area clean with a tree branch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a mischievous smile, Lach explained that 15 years ago, when she was first establishing herself as a vendor in this park, she used to show up even earlier, at 2 or 3 in the morning, to stake out this prime spot. That didn’t make her too popular with other vendors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“After that, they get mad at me all the time,” Lach said with a little laugh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She began unloading her car, which was stuffed with folding tables, charcoal and cleaning supplies\u003cem>. \u003c/em>She pulled out coolers full of food she prepped at home in the middle of the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I make beef stick, chicken stick, sausage, angel wing, stuffed chicken, lao sausage and papaya salad,” she said. “I make everything by myself.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lach started cooking as a livelihood in a roundabout way. Growing up in Cambodia, she rejected her family’s efforts to get her to cook, saying it felt too traditional. Born in Battambang in 1974, the chaos of the war in Vietnam and ongoing regional conflicts was all around her.\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"label":"More on California Foodways ","tag":"california-foodways"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>When she was a little girl, she said, a friend accidentally detonated an explosive near her, leaving her with burn scars that are still painful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Sometimes, it’s like my head hurts,” Lach said. “I cannot control myself, sometimes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few years after the explosion, Lach said her family moved out of the city to cultivate land closer to the Thai border. As she grew older, into her teen years, her family was even more eager for her to learn to cook. They saw it as a necessary skill for her future, but Lach resisted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I tell my stepmom, ‘No, I don’t want to cook,’” Lach said. “When people ask [about] marriage, tell them your daughter [doesn’t] know how to cook.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her plan to delay marriage worked for a while; suitors stopped asking to marry her. But Lach said, eventually, she did marry, and her husband brought her to Stockton, \u003ca href=\"https://www.pewresearch.org/social-trends/fact-sheet/asian-americans-cambodians-in-the-u-s/\">home to one of the largest populations of Cambodians in the country.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11972487\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11972487\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A person wearing a baseball cap smiles while working with food in an park setting.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bopha Om works at her cousin Rotana’s side, making papaya salad to order at Angel Cruz Park on Nov. 12, 2023. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That was 20 years ago, and she’s since divorced that husband. But the difficulty of those early days hasn’t left her. When she arrived in California, she only spoke Khmer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“No writing, no reading,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She didn’t speak any English, so she attended adult school for about five years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooking finally caught up to her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a husband and a growing family, she finally had to learn. At parties, she’d spy on what experienced cooks were doing. She also spent time online watching cooking videos on YouTube.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All that work paid off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, her stall at the Angel Cruz Park food market earns enough money to support her four kids and to send funds back to relatives in Cambodia.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A multigenerational community\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The vendors at this longstanding market represent several different generations within the Southeast Asian community. Many of the longest-standing stalls are run by older folks. Lach falls into the middle category. And then, there are the younger, newer folks, like Steve Kim.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“As a Cambodian American, we’re known for using a lemongrass paste,” Kim said. “[It] has like kaffir lime leaf, garlic, longa, turmeric.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11972484\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11972484\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A person in a baseball cap smiles while standing under a tent in an park setting.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Steve Kim at his stand at Angel Cruz Park on Nov. 12, 2023. Kim started selling three lemonades at the park in the summer of 2023 and has since added Cambodian food, waffles and boba teas to his menu. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Kim’s tent is fancier than the others, with laminated images of the items he sells: lemonades, boba tea, Cambodian food and waffles. The 30-year-old said his stomach led him to start cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“In the fourth grade, I was like, ‘Hey, mom’s always working. Dad is always working. You know, we come [home] after school [and we’re] starving.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He asked his mom to teach him some Cambodian basics — and his cooking evolved from there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After managing restaurants for years and making food videos on TikTok, he started selling at Angel Cruz Park in the summer of 2023. He wanted to see if he could build a customer base before jumping into the financial commitment of a full-fledged restaurant. \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"‘When the Southeast Asians migrated, they decided to showcase their food and their culture. … this park has grown a lot. The food is cheap; it’s made fresh to order. And it’s like a community event.’","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"medium","align":"right","citation":"Steve Kim, food vendor, Angel Cruz Park","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“So once I got my business license all set up, my permits and everything, I was like, ‘Hey, let’s just try it out,’” Kim said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He started with three types of lemonade — strawberry, grapefruit and dragonfruit — and then added more items.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Angel Cruz Park market is a Stockton institution, Kim said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When the Southeast Asians migrated, they decided to showcase their food and their culture,” Kim said. “And since then, this park has grown a lot. The food is cheap; it’s made fresh to order. And it’s like a community event.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He likes that there are multiple generations at the park, elders who established this tradition, and people his age who are expanding on it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You hear a lot of negativity about Stockton, but once you come here and you see it [with] your own eyes, it’s not like that,” Kim said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/news/11973699/this-stockton-park-is-a-weekend-haven-for-hmong-and-cambodian-bites","authors":["3229"],"programs":["news_72","news_26731"],"categories":["news_8"],"tags":["news_17886","news_30864","news_22973","news_27626","news_333","news_20632","news_17708","news_33457","news_784","news_29436"],"featImg":"news_11972486","label":"news_26731"},"news_11969212":{"type":"posts","id":"news_11969212","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"news","id":"11969212","score":null,"sort":[1701946892000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-san-franciscos-anchor-brewing-started-the-craft-beer-craze","title":"How San Francisco’s Anchor Brewing Started the Craft Beer Craze","publishDate":1701946892,"format":"standard","headTitle":"How San Francisco’s Anchor Brewing Started the Craft Beer Craze | KQED","labelTerm":{"term":33523,"site":"news"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003ca href=\"#episode-transcript\">View the full episode transcript.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cbr>\nThe craft beer market has been booming the last few decades. Last year the number of craft breweries in the U.S. reached an all time high of 9,552. And California is a paradise for craft beer lovers like Bay Curious listener Ricky Tjandra – the state is home to over 950 such brew operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Ricky, who lives in Hayward, first started drinking beer in the early 2000s, he’d buy the basics: Coors, Budweiser, and the like. Then he and his friends started exploring the many different styles that Bay Area breweries were offering.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[baycuriouspodcastinfo]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We started seeing other beers that weren’t in the supermarket out in bars,” said Ricky. “It got me interested.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, as a craft beer aficionado, Ricky asked Bay Curious to investigate the local lore that this nationwide beer trend got its start in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I heard that the Bay Area is one of the first places to produce craft beer before craft beer even became a thing,” he said, “Is that true?”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>What’s in a name?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>First, you might be wondering what the difference is between a ‘craft’ beer and just any beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The official definition is set by the Brewers Association, a national industry trade group for craft brewers. It says the “craft” in brewing comes down to an operation’s ownership and output. A craft brewery can’t be more than 25% owned by a company or investor that is not also a craft brewery. And the annual output of the brewery can’t be more than six million barrels of bee r– a considerable amount. A barrel is 31 gallons of beer, and six million of them is enough to fill 380 Olympic sized swimming pools.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s another, less official standard for what defines a craft beer; one that’s more about quality and character. How is it made? What kind of creative process did the brewer go through when developing it? Does it utilize new, perhaps experimental ingredients or flavors?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Retired Anchor Brewing Historian, Dave Burkhart, has his own definition:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A craft beer is a distinctive, aesthetically pleasing alcoholic beverage made from malted grain whose taste, aroma, quality and consistency reflect the skill, integrity and creative imagination of its brewer.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dave is the author of The Anchor Brewing Story, which tells the complete history of the Anchor Brewing Company — where he worked for 31 years — from the Gold Rush all the way to the present day. Dave began working at the brewery in 1991, and over the years did a number of jobs, including acting as tour guide and helping to design many of Anchor’s beautiful labels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anchor Brewing has been in the news this year, because after 127 years of brewing beer in San Francisco, the institution shut its doors at the end of July. Prior to its closure, Anchor Brewing had been purchased by Japanese brewer, Sapporo, in 2017. Former union workers of the Bay Area brewery hope to raise money to buy it back, but no deals have so far been made and the building currently sits empty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11969214\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11969214\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/230714-AnchorBrewing-22-BL-qut-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Two people talk as they look through boxes of Anchor merchandise in a warehouse-type space.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/230714-AnchorBrewing-22-BL-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/230714-AnchorBrewing-22-BL-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/230714-AnchorBrewing-22-BL-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/230714-AnchorBrewing-22-BL-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/230714-AnchorBrewing-22-BL-qut.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shari Walker and Marshall Stine gathered Anchor beer and merchandise in the final days before it closed. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Innovation at Anchor Brewing is widely considered to be the catalyst to the modern craft beer movement. So the short answer to Ricky’s question is: Yes, American craft beer really did take off in San Francisco. But it took quite a while to get there.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Steamy beginnings\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>During the Gold Rush thirsty miners created a huge demand for beer. So beer making operations were popping up all over the place. The brewery that would become Anchor Brewing was first opened as Golden City Brewery in 1871 on Pacific Avenue, between Larkin and Hyde in Nob Hill. In 1896, that location was purchased by Ernst Baruth and his son-in-law, Otto Schenkel Jr., who changed the name to Anchor Brewing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As part of the deal, new owners Baruth and Schenkel also got the recipe to the only beer that the brewery had been making. This beer would come to be known as Anchor Steam, and it’s the style that would keep the company afloat for decades to come.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>What is a “steam” beer?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The term “steam beer” is now trademarked by Anchor Brewing, but a similar style of beer can be found under the name California Common.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dave says there’s no one clear answer where the name comes from, but there are a few potential origins for the term. The most popular theory relates to its Gold Rush-era method of manufacture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first steps of beer making require steeping the malt in heating water, removing it, then boiling that mixture. The wort, as it’s called at that point, then needs to be cooled down before the yeast is added. Yeast is a living organism and if it gets too hot, it will die. The cooling process needs to happen fairly quickly to prevent bacteria from growing in the mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back when beer was being brewed in San Francisco in the 19th century, refrigeration was not available, and this process was a lot harder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“So what they did was, they pumped it up to the rooftop of the brewery, which was enclosed on all four sides by Louvered windows and had a slanted roof, so condensation wouldn’t drip right back into the beer,” said Dave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here’s where the “steam” came in: The hot mixture, not alcoholic yet, would sit in large shallow pans while the cold San Francisco air flowed around them, creating a cloud of steam that drifted out from the windows on the roof.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Somebody said, ‘Well, boy, they must be making steam beer up there,’” said Dave, about how the name may have been coined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a very long time, that was the only kind of beer Anchor Brewing made.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Then along came Fritz\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>By 1965, after changing hands several times, and relocating to the corner of De Haro and Mariposa Streets in Potrero Hill, Anchor Brewing was in a bad financial situation. At the time, the company was run by a man named Lawrence Steese who, despite his best efforts, was having difficulty maintaining the quality of the beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much of the equipment was very old. In fact, the brewery did not have refrigeration and still used the same 1890s-era rooftop cooling method. Sanitation issues meant that bacteria growth sometimes ruined the beer. Local bartenders were reporting that kegs arrived spoiled. The company was on the verge of bankruptcy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then came Fritz Maytag.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Maytag name may be familiar. Fritz’s grandfather founded the Maytag Corporation, the household appliance manufacturer best known for their washing machines. Fritz’s father also founded Maytag Dairy Farms, known for making a distinctive blue cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1965, Fritz Maytag was a 28-year-old entrepreneur who’d attended Stanford University and lived in San Francisco. When he heard from a local bartender that a legacy business like Anchor Brewing was about to close, he decided to help. He bought a 51% stake in the company for $5,100 (just under $50K in today’s money) and loaned his co-owner additional cash to keep the business afloat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[emailsignup newslettername=\"baycurious\" align=\"right\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the time, Fritz had no beer making know-how. He kept Lawrence Steese on for the first several years as brewmaster while he learned the trade and converted what he termed ‘America’s most medieval brewery’ into a modern marvel. Fritz switched to cooling the brew with refrigeration, and improved sanitation with stainless steel fermentation tanks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“He saw it as a challenge,” said Dave, who counts Fritz Maytag as a close friend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Eventually in 1969, he bought out Steese and and ended up being 100% owner, although it took him ten years to turn a profit at the brewery,” he added.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11969215\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11969215\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/GettyImages-1298609915-800x474.jpg\" alt=\"A black and white photo of a white bearded man wearing a white button down and a tie. He is seated in front of beer paraphernalia. \" width=\"800\" height=\"474\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/GettyImages-1298609915-800x474.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/GettyImages-1298609915-1020x605.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/GettyImages-1298609915-160x95.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/GettyImages-1298609915-1536x910.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/GettyImages-1298609915-2048x1214.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/GettyImages-1298609915-1920x1138.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fritz Maytag of Anchor Brewing in 1978. \u003ccite>(Photo by Gary Fong/San Francisco Chronicle via Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 1971, Anchor began bottling their Steam beer, which had previously only been available locally and on tap. That same year they introduced their first new beer – Anchor Porter. In 1975 they introduced three more: Liberty Ale, Old Foghorn Barleywine and the seasonal Anchor Christmas Ale. Soon all five beers were being bottled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>None of these beer styles were brand new – variations of them have been brewed in Europe for hundreds of years. But Dave says they were novel in the American commercial beer market at the time, which consisted mainly of watered down versions of lager.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Sad to say, virtually all of the beer in America, as anybody who was drinking beer back then will tell you, was all fizzy, light, yellow, bubbly, bland, tasteless, characterless,” Dave said, “And that was one of the beauties of what Fritz was doing. It was what he called a radically traditional idea. It was radical to make a traditional beer in those days.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the availability of bottled Anchor beer being sold to a wider market, people started to take notice of their robust and creative brews, and their renewed success. Soon, visitors were flocking to the brewery to see how it was done. something that Fritz Maytag welcomed. Dave says Fritz was happy to give anyone a tour, and promote the idea that would come to be known as craft brewing.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A legacy of creativity and openness\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>From there the craft beer industry began to blossom as inspired homebrewers in California, and nationwide made their beers commercial.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A couple of those guys were Ken Grossman and Paul Camusi from what became Sierra Nevada Brewing Company. Jack McAuliffe of New Albion came to the brewery,” said Dave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The short lived New Albion Brewing Company opened in 1978, and was the first modern microbrewery to open in the U.S. since prohibition. Though New Albion closed in 1982, many other breweries inspired by Anchor have survived and thrived.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Two of the marvelous success stories in California beer that were both inspired by Anchor are Sierra Nevada and Russian River,” said Dave. (full disclosure: Sierra Nevada Brewing is a sponsor of Bay Curious)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Russian River makes the very popular Pliny the Elder imperial IPA. They’re known for their hoppy beers, and Vinnie Cilurzo, who runs the brewery with his wife Natalie in Windsor, California, is actually credited with inventing the beer style known as a double IPA while running his first brewery, Blind Pig.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vinnie cites Anchor Brewing and Sierra Nevada as being early inspirations for the hop-forward beers that are the hallmark of his brewery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Anchor Liberty and Sierra Nevada Pale Ale were two, like, formidable beers that … still are in my DNA,” said Vinnie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A sense of camaraderie and respect seems to exist among the craft brewing industry. Vinnie Cilurzo mentioned how proud he was to have a sign from the original New Albion brewery hanging in his brewpub pub in Santa Rosa, and that Stone Brewing had credited him by name on their bottles when they released their version of a double IPA.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Historian Dave Burkhart told me that following the closure of Anchor Brewing, all current and former staff were invited to a party in Petaluma by the employees of Lagunitas Brewing Company to celebrate the life of the company.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It could be that along with a philosophy of creative experimentation, Fritz Maytag’s ‘open source’ style of welcoming brewers to Anchor also set a standard— where rather than cutthroat competition, brewers cheer on each other’s creations, because each is doing something unique.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[baycuriousquestion]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><h2 id=”episode-transcript”>Episode Transcript</h2>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Beer…Humans love it, Americans love it, Californians love it. Whether you’r\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">e cracking open a cold one at Dolores Park, clinking pint glasses with your buds at a local brewery, or paying way too much for refreshments at a Giants game… When there’\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">s good times to be had, many Californians choose: BEER. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font speaking fast, mimicking a beer commercial: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Side effects of beer may include thinking you’re stronger than you really are, excessive burping, and ordering nachos. Please drink responsibly, and only if you’re 21 or over. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Hey everyone. This is Bay Curious, the show that answers your questions about the San Francisco Bay Area. I’m Olivia Allen-Price. And I want to kick off this week’s episode by playing you one of my favorite sounds …\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">beer pouring sound\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">That’s a fresh pint of beer being poured. That kinda dampened foamy sound is just … mm! … so good. Especially when you hear it in one of the Bay Area’s many fine drinking establishments.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Ricky Tjandra: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">There’s this place called Buffalo Bill’s in Hayward, and I’ve been going there since a little after college, like 2000. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Bay Curious listener Ricky Tjandra enjoys having a pint with friends. In particular, he enjoys local craft beers. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Ricky Tjandra: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">At first I liked the IPAs and they started to be a little too heavy for me. So now I’ve been in more into Pilsners and Kölsch, and yeah, I think Kölsch has been my go to beer lately. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Ricky says when he first started enjoying beer in the early 2000s, he’d drink the basics.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Ricky Tjandra: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Like Budweiser, Coors Light. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But then some of his friends started brewing their own beer, and getting more curious about different styles. And as their tastes changed, they began trying the wide variety of brews sold in markets around the Bay Area that were produced here– Something that at the time, he hadn’t really seen outside of California. Now, as a craft beer aficionado, he wonders.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">theme music \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Ricky Tjandra:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> So I heard that the Bay Area is one of the first places to produce craft beer before craft beer even became a thing. Is that true? And if so, how did it start? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">This week on Bay Curious … we explore how the Bay Area became the epicenter for the modern craft beer explosion. And we’ll go inside a successful brewery. That’s all just ahead. Stick around.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Sponsor break\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">We’ve got producer Amanda Font here today to answer Ricky’s question about how craft beer got its start. But first, Amanda, what exactly makes something a “craft beer” versus just a regular beer?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Well, there’s sort of two answers. First there’s the official industry definition. According to the Brewers Association, which is a trade group for craft brewers, it comes down to ownership and output. Your brewery can’t be more than 25% owned or controlled by a company that is NOT a craft brewery. And your annual output must be less than 6 million barrels of beer. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> OK. Can you give us some context. How much, really, is 6 million barrels? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">A barrel is 31 gallons. So 6 million of them could fill 380 Olympic sized swimming pools. Which is a LOT. For perspective, Bay Curious sponsor Sierra Nevada is one of the largest craft breweries, with a nationwide distribution, and their annual output is only about 1.2 million barrels. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> So what’s the other thing? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The second sort of signifier of a craft brewer isn’t official, it’s more about the characteristics of the beer itself. How is it made? What kind of creative process did the brewer go through when developing it? Does it utilize new, maybe experimental ingredients or flavors? Like you kind of know a craft beer when you taste it. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Yeah, totally. I am a lot like our question asker Ricky. In my twenties I drank a lot of Bud Light, PBR, Natty Boh (shoutout Baltimore). All kinds of light lagers that taste pretty similar. The first time I had a craft brew, it blew my mind. So much flavor! Now I’m always on the lookout for new brews to try and we have so many options here.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Definitely! California has more craft breweries than any other state – around 957. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">So… to answer Ricky’s question… Is it true that that idea of ‘craft brewing’ started in the Bay Area? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">It is true! It’s widely accepted that modern American craft brewing started right here in San Francisco at Anchor Brewing. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> We had people coming to the brewery from all over the world, from all kinds of backgrounds. Just beer lovers, beer aficionados, brewers, people that were interested in starting a brewery, whether they were entrepreneurs or home brewers. It was absolutely just abuzz,\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I talked to Dave Burkhart.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> My title is Anchor Brewery historian Emeritus, which has nothing to do with merit and simply means that I retired.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Dave worked at Anchor Brewing for 31 years starting in 1991. He did a lot of different jobs. Everything from being on the design team for their beautiful labels, to doing lab work and being a tour guide. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Tour guide was a great job and everybody did it because it was a great way to learn about the brewery. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">While working as a tour guide people would ask him history questions that he didn’t know the answers to, so he’d ask other people in the company and they also weren’t sure. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Here I was working at a San Francisco institution that had been around forever, and nobody really knew all that much about the history. So I began delving into it on my own. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The result is his book, The Anchor Brewing Story.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">…which tells the Complete History of Anchor Brewing Company from the Gold Rush all the way to the present day. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Now, you may have seen Anchor Brewing in the news this year because after 127 years of brewing beer in San Francisco, the company ceased operations and shut its doors at the end of July. It’s not necessarily gone forever…there are efforts underway to raise money to help the former union workers at Anchor buy the brewery and reopen it. But currently the property is for sale for $40 million dollars. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">What is for certain, is that Anchor’s influence as the center of the modern craft beer movement can’t be underestimated. But it took a long time to get there. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The story starts just after the gold rush. The brewery that would become Anchor was first opened as Golden City Brewery in 1871 on Pacific Avenue, between Larkin and Hyde in Nob Hill. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In 1896, Ernst Baruth and his son in law, Otto Schenkel Jr, bought the brewery and changed the name to Anchor. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1896 is what Anchor claims as their official establishment year. As part of the deal, the new owners also got the recipe for one and only beer that the brewery had been making– what would come to be known as Anchor Steam– the iconic beer that kept this business open for many decades to come… \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> The question that I’ve probably been asked more times than any in 31 and a half years that I worked at the brewery was why is it called steam beer? And I’d like to say that there’s one answer and there’s one easy answer. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">There are a few potential reasons, but Here’s what is probably the most popular theory behind the name… During the Goldrush there were a lot of thirsty miners, and a huge demand for beer, particularly lager. The term lager comes from a German word that means to stock or store…\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> And typically lager beer in those lands is made and then stored or lagered either in a cellar or an alpine cave on almost always on ice or in a very cool temperature for a number of months. And that’s where it develops its clean, crisp flavors. Well, guess what? Ice and water refrigeration were not available in California during the gold rush. So the Brewers had to figure out a way to make the best lager they could make under those primitive conditions and without ice. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> The first steps of beer making require steeping your malt in heating water, and boiling that mixture. Then you need to cool it down before adding the yeast because yeast is a living organism, and if it’s too hot, it’ll die. And that’s the magic ingredient that makes your beer alcoholic. But you need to cool it quickly to prevent bacteria growth. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">So what they did was they pumped it up to the rooftop of the brewery, which was enclosed on all four sides by Louvered windows and had a slanted roof, so condensation wouldn’t drip right back into the beer. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> The hot mixture would sit in these big shallow pans, so cool air could flow around them.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And guess what? When Hot Wort, which is what beer is called before you add yeast to it, met cold air of San Francisco, you get something that looks like steam wafting from those louvered windows. And so somebody said, “Well, boy, they must be making steam beer up there.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> The term “Steam Beer” was later trademarked by Anchor, but you can find a similar style of beer sold under the name California Common. And for a long time that’s the only kind of beer Anchor Brewing made. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Let’s jump ahead to 1965… Anchor Brewing has changed hands several times and is now owned by a guy named Lawrence Steese. And it is not doing very well. They’re making 2 beers–sort of… that classic Steam and something that at least looks like a Porter… \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> It wasn’t called Porter, it was just called steam light and steam dark. And all they did was literally add caramel coloring to the keg as they were filling the keg. It wasn’t even in the brew. There was no dark malt. There was no nothing. It looked like Porter, but it tasted. If you close your eyes, guess what it was exactly… exactly the same. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The quality of the beer they’re churning out is very inconsistent, due to sanitation issues, like bacteria growth. Local bars are reporting that kegs arrive spoiled. And Anchor Brewing is in deep financial trouble, on the verge of bankruptcy. Then along comes… Fritz Maytag. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Absolutely one of the brightest people I know. Sharp as a tack. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">If the name Maytag sounds familiar to you, it’s probably because you’ve seen it on your washing machine. Fritz is grandson of the founder of the Maytag Corporation. Or it could be that you’ve had Maytag Blue Cheese, because Fritz’s father started Maytag Dairy Farms. Talk about a family with a diverse business portfolio… \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In 1965, Fritz Maytag was a 28-year-old entrepreneur, looking to branch out in yet another direction from his family’s enterprises. He’d attended Stanford, and lived in the Bay Area, and when he heard from a local bartender that a legacy business like Anchor was close to shutting its doors, he decided he had to help. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> And so he bought 51% stake in the brewery for $5,100 dollars…\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">A little under 50 grand in today’s money. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> And then loaned promptly had to loan Lawrence Stice about $9,000. Fritz was charmed by the brewery, but also realized that in addition to being America’s smallest brewery at the time, It was also the most medieval brewery, as Fritz liked to call it. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">For one thing, the brewery was still using that same method of cooling the wort on the roof of the building that they had been back in the 1890s. They didn’t even have refrigeration. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">It had a refrigerator where you could leave your lunch, you know, But that was about it. This is this was in 1965, for gosh sakes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Fritz set about taking this “medieval” brewery and modernizing it, starting with refrigeration and stainless steel tanks, which are much easier to keep clean. The funny thing is, before buying a majority stake in Anchor, Fritz didn’t actually know anything about beer. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> as he started to work there and see the problems with the beer he saw it as a challenge and saw it as something that he really loved and taught himself all about brewing. And eventually in 1969, he bought out Steese and and ended up being 100% owner,, although it took him ten years to turn a profit at the brewery. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">For the majority of the company’s history Anchor beer had only been available locally on tap. But In 1971, they began bottling Anchor Steam – and branching out, style-wise. The first new brew – a Porter… A real one, this time…\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> an all malt porter made with a black patent or dark malt, as well as the caramel malt and pale malt. That was in 1972 and we began bottling it in 1974. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In 1975 they introduced three more beers… Anchor Liberty Ale, Old Foghorn Barleywine and the seasonal Anchor Christmas Ale, which started a tradition where each year the recipe and the label on the bottle are just a little different. And each of Anchor’s now 5 different beers was unique in character… \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">They all looked different. They all tasted different. They all smelled different. They all had different labels, but they all felt like they came from Anchor.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Experimenting with different styles is a hallmark of craft breweries now, but at the time it was unusual, because in the 1970s… American beer was pretty homogenous. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Sad to say, virtually all of the beer in America, as anybody knows who was drinking, drinking beer back then will tell you, it was all fizzy lite, \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Medley of 70s beer commercials\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">yellow, bubbly, bland, tasteless, characterless. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Medley of 70s beer commercials\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">It’s not that any of the styles Anchor was brewing were brand new, they just weren’t commonly available in the U.S. at that time. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> And that was one of the beauties of what Fritz was doing. It was what he called a radically traditional idea. It was radical to make a traditional beer in those days.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Selling their beer in bottles allowed Anchor to reach a wider market, and people outside the Bay Area started to take notice of these robust, more artfully brewed beers. Some started flocking to the brewery to see how it all worked … because they wanted to do it too. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Fritz was open source before the words open source and was happy to give everybody that came a tour, tell them all about our beer and, you know, promote the idea of what ultimately became known as craft beer. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Dave says the term ‘craft beer’ was just taking off around the time he started working at Anchor in 1991. Before that people referred to it as microbrewing. Anchor was doing a lot of experimentation with different hops and malts, and that, combined with their modern techniques and the fact that they were seeing renewed success, inspired a lot of new businesses… \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> A couple of those guys were Ken Grossman and Paul Camusi from what became Sierra Nevada Brewing Company. Jack McAuliffe of New Albion came to the brewery. Everybody wanted to make that pilgrimage, and why not, to see how it was done because the brewery was… it was small, but it was successful. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And the craft beer scene started to take off and evolve… for example, there’s the story about a young couple from Southern California…Natalie and her boyfriend Vinnie.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Natalie \u003c/b>\u003cb>Cilurzo\u003c/b>\u003cb>:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> I asked him what he wanted to do with the rest of his life. Like, what do you want to be when you grow up that everybody asks you at that age? And he said, I want to own my own brewery. And I Said how do you know this? You’re not even old enough to buy beer. And he said, I just do. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Natalie brought Vinnie to see the Anchor Brewing tour for his 21st birthday in 1991. Dave gave the tour.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Fritz was there that day. I won’t claim to have been inspirational. But Fritz was certainly inspirational. The tour left a big impression on Vinnee … and on Dave too.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> But he wrote me a thank you note, and I saved it for some reason. I just got this weird sense about him like “Maybe I should just save this note.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">30 years later… Vinnee comes back for a 2nd tour, this time at the invitation of Anchor Brewing. Because Vinnie and Natalie Cilurzo now run Russian River Brewing, makers of the popular Pliny the Elder imperial IPA. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Vinnie Cilurzo:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Dave whips out this piece of paper and it’s a handwritten letter just thanking him for the visit and whatnot. And I was, I was blown away that Dave still had that.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">So you can think of Anchor Brewing as sort of a parent or grandparent of many of the well-known craft breweries around today. Vinnie credits Anchor as an early inspiration. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Vinnie Cilurzo:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Anchor Liberty and Sierra Nevada Pale Ale were two, like, formidable beers that were in my– still are in my DNA. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And he’s leveraged that inspiration to great success… Here’s a perfect example. Before taking over Russian River, Vinnie opened his first brewery, called Blind Pig, in his hometown of Temecula California. He was young, and just starting out, so he had to buy his brewing equipment second hand. It was a little old, some of it was plastic, and it was kind of cobbled together. He was worried it might affect the taste of his beer. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Vinnie Cilurzo:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> So I just thought, Well, what if we take our IPA recipe and double all the hops and then raise the malt a little bit? So then we get a little higher alcohol content in a way, almost like kind of hide the flavors because we couldn’t afford to fail on the first brew. Granted, if it would have been contaminated, we would have dumped it. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But it wasn’t, and when they released the beer, it was good. So the next year they released another Double IPA… That’s right, Vinnie is credited with inventing that extra strong, extra hoppy style known as double IPA. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The spirit of innovation among local craft breweries has accelerated in recent decades. New hop varieties are coming out all the time – giving brewers flavors to experiment with that Fritz Maytag could only dream of back in the 60s.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Vinnie Cilurzo:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> I just dry hopped a beer today with a hop that is a– it’s a number, NZ-109, and we’re the second brewery in the world, I’ve been told, to use this hop. And so here we’re experimenting with this new hop variety. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Vinnie and his now wife Natalie showed me how it’s done at their state of the art brewery in Windsor California, about 10 miles north of Santa Rosa. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">sounds of brewing facility\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Vinnie Cilurzo giving a tour:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> So this is what the hops looked like before they went into the hop back. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Natalie \u003c/b>\u003cb>Cilurzo\u003c/b>\u003cb>:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">If you think of like in cooking, you know, the hops would be like your herbs and spices and so you’d have your base recipe that you can then make the same best base recipe for several different beers. But you can you can dramatically alter them by just different hop varieties that you use. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The day I visited they were brewing a big batch of their happy hops IPA. As we walked through the brewery, we came across a couple large tubs of spent hops, still warm from being in the brew.. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>Sound of tour:\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> So this is this could be Amarillo. It couldn’t stone fruit. Yeah, it could be a….Smell that you’re going to love this smell.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The still slightly damp hops smell amazing– a little piney, citrusy, with a note of freshly mown hay.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I was struck by just how passionate the people who work in craft beer really are. And how that enthusiasm translates into really good beer. I also got the sense that a lot of these breweries feel a camaraderie with each other…\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">: \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Lagunitas invited all employees and former employees of Anchor Brewing to an anchor appreciation party.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Vinnie Cilurzo:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> When Stone Brewing in Escondido had their second anniversary, they made a double IPA and they actually gave me credit on their on their label, which was pretty cool of Greg and Steve to do that. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">It could be that along with a philosophy of creative experimentation, Fritz Maytag’s “open source” style of welcoming brewers to Anchor also set a standard… where rather than cutthroat competition, brewers respect and cheer on each other’s creations, because they’re all doing something unique. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But the craft beer industry is facing some challenges right now. The pandemic hit everyone hard, and tastes change over time… alcoholic seltzers seem to be the hot thing right now. Plus, the market is a little saturated, and increasing costs can mean that breweries that were once considered ‘craft’ now don’t technically qualify because they’ve had to turn to larger business partners. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Before it closed, Anchor was sold to Sapporo in 2017, making it no longer a craft brewery. Petaluma-based Lagunitas, another brewery popular for its creative beers, doesn’t technically qualify anymore. Heiniken bought a 50% stake in the company in 2015. But maybe rigid qualifications like that don’t fully reflect what’s at the heart of an industry based on creativity… \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Vinnie Cilurzo:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> I define craft brewing as quality, quality driven. And and at the end of the day, I’m actually not sure anymore if it matters who owns you or whatnot. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Historian Dave Burkhart summed it up nicely too… \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">: A craft beer is a distinctive, aesthetically pleasing alcoholic beverage made from malted grain whose taste, aroma, quality and consistency reflect the skill, integrity and creative imagination of its brewer. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">As a fellow beer lover, I’ll drink to that. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">sound of cheers\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">That was Bay Curious producer Amanda Font. Big thanks to Ricky Tjandra for sending in that question. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">It’s a new month and that means… there’s a new voting round up at BayCurious.org. Head over to cast your vote for what question you think we should answer next. It only takes a few seconds! Also, there’s a new monthly trivia contest question … hang on at the end of this episode for a chance to win.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Bay Curious is made in San Francisco at member-supported KQED. Our show is produced by Amanda Font, Christopher Beale and me, Olivia Allen-Price. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Additional support from Jen Chien, Katie Sprenger, Cesar Saldana, Maha Sanad, Holly Kernan and the whole KEQD Family. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Have a good one, everybody!\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"In the 1960s and 70s, American beer drinkers didn't have many options. Large brewers were pumping out beer that was bland, tasteless and characterless. But Anchor Brewing stood apart.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1702319308,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":true,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":160,"wordCount":6324},"headData":{"title":"How San Francisco’s Anchor Brewing Started the Craft Beer Craze | KQED","description":"In the 1960s and 70s, American beer drinkers didn't have many options. Large brewers were pumping out beer that was bland, tasteless and characterless. But Anchor Brewing stood apart.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"audioUrl":"https://www.podtrac.com/pts/redirect.mp3/pdst.fm/e/chrt.fm/track/G6C7C3/traffic.megaphone.fm/KQINC6500446993.mp3?updated=1701899199","sticky":false,"templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","excludeFromSiteSearch":"Include","articleAge":"0","path":"/news/11969212/how-san-franciscos-anchor-brewing-started-the-craft-beer-craze","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003ca href=\"#episode-transcript\">View the full episode transcript.\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cbr>\nThe craft beer market has been booming the last few decades. Last year the number of craft breweries in the U.S. reached an all time high of 9,552. And California is a paradise for craft beer lovers like Bay Curious listener Ricky Tjandra – the state is home to over 950 such brew operations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Ricky, who lives in Hayward, first started drinking beer in the early 2000s, he’d buy the basics: Coors, Budweiser, and the like. Then he and his friends started exploring the many different styles that Bay Area breweries were offering.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003caside class=\"alignleft utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__bayCuriousPodcastShortcode__bayCurious\">\u003cimg src=https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/bayCuriousLogo.png alt=\"Bay Curious Podcast\" />\n \u003ca href=\"/news/series/baycurious\">Bay Curious\u003c/a> is a podcast that answers your questions about the Bay Area.\n Subscribe on \u003ca href=\"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Apple Podcasts\u003c/a>,\n \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">NPR One\u003c/a> or your favorite podcast platform.\u003c/aside>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We started seeing other beers that weren’t in the supermarket out in bars,” said Ricky. “It got me interested.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, as a craft beer aficionado, Ricky asked Bay Curious to investigate the local lore that this nationwide beer trend got its start in the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I heard that the Bay Area is one of the first places to produce craft beer before craft beer even became a thing,” he said, “Is that true?”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>What’s in a name?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>First, you might be wondering what the difference is between a ‘craft’ beer and just any beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The official definition is set by the Brewers Association, a national industry trade group for craft brewers. It says the “craft” in brewing comes down to an operation’s ownership and output. A craft brewery can’t be more than 25% owned by a company or investor that is not also a craft brewery. And the annual output of the brewery can’t be more than six million barrels of bee r– a considerable amount. A barrel is 31 gallons of beer, and six million of them is enough to fill 380 Olympic sized swimming pools.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There’s another, less official standard for what defines a craft beer; one that’s more about quality and character. How is it made? What kind of creative process did the brewer go through when developing it? Does it utilize new, perhaps experimental ingredients or flavors?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Retired Anchor Brewing Historian, Dave Burkhart, has his own definition:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A craft beer is a distinctive, aesthetically pleasing alcoholic beverage made from malted grain whose taste, aroma, quality and consistency reflect the skill, integrity and creative imagination of its brewer.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dave is the author of The Anchor Brewing Story, which tells the complete history of the Anchor Brewing Company — where he worked for 31 years — from the Gold Rush all the way to the present day. Dave began working at the brewery in 1991, and over the years did a number of jobs, including acting as tour guide and helping to design many of Anchor’s beautiful labels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anchor Brewing has been in the news this year, because after 127 years of brewing beer in San Francisco, the institution shut its doors at the end of July. Prior to its closure, Anchor Brewing had been purchased by Japanese brewer, Sapporo, in 2017. Former union workers of the Bay Area brewery hope to raise money to buy it back, but no deals have so far been made and the building currently sits empty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11969214\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11969214\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/230714-AnchorBrewing-22-BL-qut-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Two people talk as they look through boxes of Anchor merchandise in a warehouse-type space.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/230714-AnchorBrewing-22-BL-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/230714-AnchorBrewing-22-BL-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/230714-AnchorBrewing-22-BL-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/230714-AnchorBrewing-22-BL-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/230714-AnchorBrewing-22-BL-qut.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shari Walker and Marshall Stine gathered Anchor beer and merchandise in the final days before it closed. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Innovation at Anchor Brewing is widely considered to be the catalyst to the modern craft beer movement. So the short answer to Ricky’s question is: Yes, American craft beer really did take off in San Francisco. But it took quite a while to get there.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Steamy beginnings\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>During the Gold Rush thirsty miners created a huge demand for beer. So beer making operations were popping up all over the place. The brewery that would become Anchor Brewing was first opened as Golden City Brewery in 1871 on Pacific Avenue, between Larkin and Hyde in Nob Hill. In 1896, that location was purchased by Ernst Baruth and his son-in-law, Otto Schenkel Jr., who changed the name to Anchor Brewing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As part of the deal, new owners Baruth and Schenkel also got the recipe to the only beer that the brewery had been making. This beer would come to be known as Anchor Steam, and it’s the style that would keep the company afloat for decades to come.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>What is a “steam” beer?\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The term “steam beer” is now trademarked by Anchor Brewing, but a similar style of beer can be found under the name California Common.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dave says there’s no one clear answer where the name comes from, but there are a few potential origins for the term. The most popular theory relates to its Gold Rush-era method of manufacture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first steps of beer making require steeping the malt in heating water, removing it, then boiling that mixture. The wort, as it’s called at that point, then needs to be cooled down before the yeast is added. Yeast is a living organism and if it gets too hot, it will die. The cooling process needs to happen fairly quickly to prevent bacteria from growing in the mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Back when beer was being brewed in San Francisco in the 19th century, refrigeration was not available, and this process was a lot harder.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“So what they did was, they pumped it up to the rooftop of the brewery, which was enclosed on all four sides by Louvered windows and had a slanted roof, so condensation wouldn’t drip right back into the beer,” said Dave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here’s where the “steam” came in: The hot mixture, not alcoholic yet, would sit in large shallow pans while the cold San Francisco air flowed around them, creating a cloud of steam that drifted out from the windows on the roof.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Somebody said, ‘Well, boy, they must be making steam beer up there,’” said Dave, about how the name may have been coined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a very long time, that was the only kind of beer Anchor Brewing made.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Then along came Fritz\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>By 1965, after changing hands several times, and relocating to the corner of De Haro and Mariposa Streets in Potrero Hill, Anchor Brewing was in a bad financial situation. At the time, the company was run by a man named Lawrence Steese who, despite his best efforts, was having difficulty maintaining the quality of the beer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much of the equipment was very old. In fact, the brewery did not have refrigeration and still used the same 1890s-era rooftop cooling method. Sanitation issues meant that bacteria growth sometimes ruined the beer. Local bartenders were reporting that kegs arrived spoiled. The company was on the verge of bankruptcy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then came Fritz Maytag.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Maytag name may be familiar. Fritz’s grandfather founded the Maytag Corporation, the household appliance manufacturer best known for their washing machines. Fritz’s father also founded Maytag Dairy Farms, known for making a distinctive blue cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1965, Fritz Maytag was a 28-year-old entrepreneur who’d attended Stanford University and lived in San Francisco. When he heard from a local bartender that a legacy business like Anchor Brewing was about to close, he decided to help. He bought a 51% stake in the company for $5,100 (just under $50K in today’s money) and loaned his co-owner additional cash to keep the business afloat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"emailsignup","attributes":{"named":{"newslettername":"baycurious","align":"right","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the time, Fritz had no beer making know-how. He kept Lawrence Steese on for the first several years as brewmaster while he learned the trade and converted what he termed ‘America’s most medieval brewery’ into a modern marvel. Fritz switched to cooling the brew with refrigeration, and improved sanitation with stainless steel fermentation tanks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“He saw it as a challenge,” said Dave, who counts Fritz Maytag as a close friend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Eventually in 1969, he bought out Steese and and ended up being 100% owner, although it took him ten years to turn a profit at the brewery,” he added.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11969215\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11969215\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/GettyImages-1298609915-800x474.jpg\" alt=\"A black and white photo of a white bearded man wearing a white button down and a tie. He is seated in front of beer paraphernalia. \" width=\"800\" height=\"474\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/GettyImages-1298609915-800x474.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/GettyImages-1298609915-1020x605.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/GettyImages-1298609915-160x95.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/GettyImages-1298609915-1536x910.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/GettyImages-1298609915-2048x1214.jpg 2048w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2023/12/GettyImages-1298609915-1920x1138.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fritz Maytag of Anchor Brewing in 1978. \u003ccite>(Photo by Gary Fong/San Francisco Chronicle via Getty Images)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In 1971, Anchor began bottling their Steam beer, which had previously only been available locally and on tap. That same year they introduced their first new beer – Anchor Porter. In 1975 they introduced three more: Liberty Ale, Old Foghorn Barleywine and the seasonal Anchor Christmas Ale. Soon all five beers were being bottled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>None of these beer styles were brand new – variations of them have been brewed in Europe for hundreds of years. But Dave says they were novel in the American commercial beer market at the time, which consisted mainly of watered down versions of lager.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Sad to say, virtually all of the beer in America, as anybody who was drinking beer back then will tell you, was all fizzy, light, yellow, bubbly, bland, tasteless, characterless,” Dave said, “And that was one of the beauties of what Fritz was doing. It was what he called a radically traditional idea. It was radical to make a traditional beer in those days.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the availability of bottled Anchor beer being sold to a wider market, people started to take notice of their robust and creative brews, and their renewed success. Soon, visitors were flocking to the brewery to see how it was done. something that Fritz Maytag welcomed. Dave says Fritz was happy to give anyone a tour, and promote the idea that would come to be known as craft brewing.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A legacy of creativity and openness\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>From there the craft beer industry began to blossom as inspired homebrewers in California, and nationwide made their beers commercial.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A couple of those guys were Ken Grossman and Paul Camusi from what became Sierra Nevada Brewing Company. Jack McAuliffe of New Albion came to the brewery,” said Dave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The short lived New Albion Brewing Company opened in 1978, and was the first modern microbrewery to open in the U.S. since prohibition. Though New Albion closed in 1982, many other breweries inspired by Anchor have survived and thrived.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Two of the marvelous success stories in California beer that were both inspired by Anchor are Sierra Nevada and Russian River,” said Dave. (full disclosure: Sierra Nevada Brewing is a sponsor of Bay Curious)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Russian River makes the very popular Pliny the Elder imperial IPA. They’re known for their hoppy beers, and Vinnie Cilurzo, who runs the brewery with his wife Natalie in Windsor, California, is actually credited with inventing the beer style known as a double IPA while running his first brewery, Blind Pig.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vinnie cites Anchor Brewing and Sierra Nevada as being early inspirations for the hop-forward beers that are the hallmark of his brewery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Anchor Liberty and Sierra Nevada Pale Ale were two, like, formidable beers that … still are in my DNA,” said Vinnie.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A sense of camaraderie and respect seems to exist among the craft brewing industry. Vinnie Cilurzo mentioned how proud he was to have a sign from the original New Albion brewery hanging in his brewpub pub in Santa Rosa, and that Stone Brewing had credited him by name on their bottles when they released their version of a double IPA.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Historian Dave Burkhart told me that following the closure of Anchor Brewing, all current and former staff were invited to a party in Petaluma by the employees of Lagunitas Brewing Company to celebrate the life of the company.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It could be that along with a philosophy of creative experimentation, Fritz Maytag’s ‘open source’ style of welcoming brewers to Anchor also set a standard— where rather than cutthroat competition, brewers cheer on each other’s creations, because each is doing something unique.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"baycuriousquestion","attributes":{"named":{"label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><h2 id=”episode-transcript”>Episode Transcript</h2>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Beer…Humans love it, Americans love it, Californians love it. Whether you’r\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">e cracking open a cold one at Dolores Park, clinking pint glasses with your buds at a local brewery, or paying way too much for refreshments at a Giants game… When there’\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">s good times to be had, many Californians choose: BEER. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font speaking fast, mimicking a beer commercial: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Side effects of beer may include thinking you’re stronger than you really are, excessive burping, and ordering nachos. Please drink responsibly, and only if you’re 21 or over. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Hey everyone. This is Bay Curious, the show that answers your questions about the San Francisco Bay Area. I’m Olivia Allen-Price. And I want to kick off this week’s episode by playing you one of my favorite sounds …\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">beer pouring sound\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">That’s a fresh pint of beer being poured. That kinda dampened foamy sound is just … mm! … so good. Especially when you hear it in one of the Bay Area’s many fine drinking establishments.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Ricky Tjandra: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">There’s this place called Buffalo Bill’s in Hayward, and I’ve been going there since a little after college, like 2000. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Bay Curious listener Ricky Tjandra enjoys having a pint with friends. In particular, he enjoys local craft beers. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Ricky Tjandra: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">At first I liked the IPAs and they started to be a little too heavy for me. So now I’ve been in more into Pilsners and Kölsch, and yeah, I think Kölsch has been my go to beer lately. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Ricky says when he first started enjoying beer in the early 2000s, he’d drink the basics.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Ricky Tjandra: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Like Budweiser, Coors Light. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But then some of his friends started brewing their own beer, and getting more curious about different styles. And as their tastes changed, they began trying the wide variety of brews sold in markets around the Bay Area that were produced here– Something that at the time, he hadn’t really seen outside of California. Now, as a craft beer aficionado, he wonders.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">theme music \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Ricky Tjandra:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> So I heard that the Bay Area is one of the first places to produce craft beer before craft beer even became a thing. Is that true? And if so, how did it start? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">This week on Bay Curious … we explore how the Bay Area became the epicenter for the modern craft beer explosion. And we’ll go inside a successful brewery. That’s all just ahead. Stick around.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Sponsor break\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">We’ve got producer Amanda Font here today to answer Ricky’s question about how craft beer got its start. But first, Amanda, what exactly makes something a “craft beer” versus just a regular beer?\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Well, there’s sort of two answers. First there’s the official industry definition. According to the Brewers Association, which is a trade group for craft brewers, it comes down to ownership and output. Your brewery can’t be more than 25% owned or controlled by a company that is NOT a craft brewery. And your annual output must be less than 6 million barrels of beer. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> OK. Can you give us some context. How much, really, is 6 million barrels? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">A barrel is 31 gallons. So 6 million of them could fill 380 Olympic sized swimming pools. Which is a LOT. For perspective, Bay Curious sponsor Sierra Nevada is one of the largest craft breweries, with a nationwide distribution, and their annual output is only about 1.2 million barrels. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> So what’s the other thing? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The second sort of signifier of a craft brewer isn’t official, it’s more about the characteristics of the beer itself. How is it made? What kind of creative process did the brewer go through when developing it? Does it utilize new, maybe experimental ingredients or flavors? Like you kind of know a craft beer when you taste it. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Yeah, totally. I am a lot like our question asker Ricky. In my twenties I drank a lot of Bud Light, PBR, Natty Boh (shoutout Baltimore). All kinds of light lagers that taste pretty similar. The first time I had a craft brew, it blew my mind. So much flavor! Now I’m always on the lookout for new brews to try and we have so many options here.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Definitely! California has more craft breweries than any other state – around 957. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">So… to answer Ricky’s question… Is it true that that idea of ‘craft brewing’ started in the Bay Area? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">It is true! It’s widely accepted that modern American craft brewing started right here in San Francisco at Anchor Brewing. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> We had people coming to the brewery from all over the world, from all kinds of backgrounds. Just beer lovers, beer aficionados, brewers, people that were interested in starting a brewery, whether they were entrepreneurs or home brewers. It was absolutely just abuzz,\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I talked to Dave Burkhart.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> My title is Anchor Brewery historian Emeritus, which has nothing to do with merit and simply means that I retired.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Dave worked at Anchor Brewing for 31 years starting in 1991. He did a lot of different jobs. Everything from being on the design team for their beautiful labels, to doing lab work and being a tour guide. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Tour guide was a great job and everybody did it because it was a great way to learn about the brewery. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">While working as a tour guide people would ask him history questions that he didn’t know the answers to, so he’d ask other people in the company and they also weren’t sure. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Here I was working at a San Francisco institution that had been around forever, and nobody really knew all that much about the history. So I began delving into it on my own. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The result is his book, The Anchor Brewing Story.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">…which tells the Complete History of Anchor Brewing Company from the Gold Rush all the way to the present day. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Now, you may have seen Anchor Brewing in the news this year because after 127 years of brewing beer in San Francisco, the company ceased operations and shut its doors at the end of July. It’s not necessarily gone forever…there are efforts underway to raise money to help the former union workers at Anchor buy the brewery and reopen it. But currently the property is for sale for $40 million dollars. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">What is for certain, is that Anchor’s influence as the center of the modern craft beer movement can’t be underestimated. But it took a long time to get there. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The story starts just after the gold rush. The brewery that would become Anchor was first opened as Golden City Brewery in 1871 on Pacific Avenue, between Larkin and Hyde in Nob Hill. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In 1896, Ernst Baruth and his son in law, Otto Schenkel Jr, bought the brewery and changed the name to Anchor. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">1896 is what Anchor claims as their official establishment year. As part of the deal, the new owners also got the recipe for one and only beer that the brewery had been making– what would come to be known as Anchor Steam– the iconic beer that kept this business open for many decades to come… \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> The question that I’ve probably been asked more times than any in 31 and a half years that I worked at the brewery was why is it called steam beer? And I’d like to say that there’s one answer and there’s one easy answer. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">There are a few potential reasons, but Here’s what is probably the most popular theory behind the name… During the Goldrush there were a lot of thirsty miners, and a huge demand for beer, particularly lager. The term lager comes from a German word that means to stock or store…\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> And typically lager beer in those lands is made and then stored or lagered either in a cellar or an alpine cave on almost always on ice or in a very cool temperature for a number of months. And that’s where it develops its clean, crisp flavors. Well, guess what? Ice and water refrigeration were not available in California during the gold rush. So the Brewers had to figure out a way to make the best lager they could make under those primitive conditions and without ice. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> The first steps of beer making require steeping your malt in heating water, and boiling that mixture. Then you need to cool it down before adding the yeast because yeast is a living organism, and if it’s too hot, it’ll die. And that’s the magic ingredient that makes your beer alcoholic. But you need to cool it quickly to prevent bacteria growth. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">So what they did was they pumped it up to the rooftop of the brewery, which was enclosed on all four sides by Louvered windows and had a slanted roof, so condensation wouldn’t drip right back into the beer. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> The hot mixture would sit in these big shallow pans, so cool air could flow around them.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And guess what? When Hot Wort, which is what beer is called before you add yeast to it, met cold air of San Francisco, you get something that looks like steam wafting from those louvered windows. And so somebody said, “Well, boy, they must be making steam beer up there.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> The term “Steam Beer” was later trademarked by Anchor, but you can find a similar style of beer sold under the name California Common. And for a long time that’s the only kind of beer Anchor Brewing made. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Let’s jump ahead to 1965… Anchor Brewing has changed hands several times and is now owned by a guy named Lawrence Steese. And it is not doing very well. They’re making 2 beers–sort of… that classic Steam and something that at least looks like a Porter… \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> It wasn’t called Porter, it was just called steam light and steam dark. And all they did was literally add caramel coloring to the keg as they were filling the keg. It wasn’t even in the brew. There was no dark malt. There was no nothing. It looked like Porter, but it tasted. If you close your eyes, guess what it was exactly… exactly the same. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The quality of the beer they’re churning out is very inconsistent, due to sanitation issues, like bacteria growth. Local bars are reporting that kegs arrive spoiled. And Anchor Brewing is in deep financial trouble, on the verge of bankruptcy. Then along comes… Fritz Maytag. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Absolutely one of the brightest people I know. Sharp as a tack. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">If the name Maytag sounds familiar to you, it’s probably because you’ve seen it on your washing machine. Fritz is grandson of the founder of the Maytag Corporation. Or it could be that you’ve had Maytag Blue Cheese, because Fritz’s father started Maytag Dairy Farms. Talk about a family with a diverse business portfolio… \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In 1965, Fritz Maytag was a 28-year-old entrepreneur, looking to branch out in yet another direction from his family’s enterprises. He’d attended Stanford, and lived in the Bay Area, and when he heard from a local bartender that a legacy business like Anchor was close to shutting its doors, he decided he had to help. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> And so he bought 51% stake in the brewery for $5,100 dollars…\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">A little under 50 grand in today’s money. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> And then loaned promptly had to loan Lawrence Stice about $9,000. Fritz was charmed by the brewery, but also realized that in addition to being America’s smallest brewery at the time, It was also the most medieval brewery, as Fritz liked to call it. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">For one thing, the brewery was still using that same method of cooling the wort on the roof of the building that they had been back in the 1890s. They didn’t even have refrigeration. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">It had a refrigerator where you could leave your lunch, you know, But that was about it. This is this was in 1965, for gosh sakes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Fritz set about taking this “medieval” brewery and modernizing it, starting with refrigeration and stainless steel tanks, which are much easier to keep clean. The funny thing is, before buying a majority stake in Anchor, Fritz didn’t actually know anything about beer. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> as he started to work there and see the problems with the beer he saw it as a challenge and saw it as something that he really loved and taught himself all about brewing. And eventually in 1969, he bought out Steese and and ended up being 100% owner,, although it took him ten years to turn a profit at the brewery. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">For the majority of the company’s history Anchor beer had only been available locally on tap. But In 1971, they began bottling Anchor Steam – and branching out, style-wise. The first new brew – a Porter… A real one, this time…\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> an all malt porter made with a black patent or dark malt, as well as the caramel malt and pale malt. That was in 1972 and we began bottling it in 1974. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In 1975 they introduced three more beers… Anchor Liberty Ale, Old Foghorn Barleywine and the seasonal Anchor Christmas Ale, which started a tradition where each year the recipe and the label on the bottle are just a little different. And each of Anchor’s now 5 different beers was unique in character… \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">They all looked different. They all tasted different. They all smelled different. They all had different labels, but they all felt like they came from Anchor.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Experimenting with different styles is a hallmark of craft breweries now, but at the time it was unusual, because in the 1970s… American beer was pretty homogenous. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Sad to say, virtually all of the beer in America, as anybody knows who was drinking, drinking beer back then will tell you, it was all fizzy lite, \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Medley of 70s beer commercials\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">yellow, bubbly, bland, tasteless, characterless. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Medley of 70s beer commercials\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">It’s not that any of the styles Anchor was brewing were brand new, they just weren’t commonly available in the U.S. at that time. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> And that was one of the beauties of what Fritz was doing. It was what he called a radically traditional idea. It was radical to make a traditional beer in those days.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Selling their beer in bottles allowed Anchor to reach a wider market, and people outside the Bay Area started to take notice of these robust, more artfully brewed beers. Some started flocking to the brewery to see how it all worked … because they wanted to do it too. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Fritz was open source before the words open source and was happy to give everybody that came a tour, tell them all about our beer and, you know, promote the idea of what ultimately became known as craft beer. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Dave says the term ‘craft beer’ was just taking off around the time he started working at Anchor in 1991. Before that people referred to it as microbrewing. Anchor was doing a lot of experimentation with different hops and malts, and that, combined with their modern techniques and the fact that they were seeing renewed success, inspired a lot of new businesses… \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> A couple of those guys were Ken Grossman and Paul Camusi from what became Sierra Nevada Brewing Company. Jack McAuliffe of New Albion came to the brewery. Everybody wanted to make that pilgrimage, and why not, to see how it was done because the brewery was… it was small, but it was successful. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And the craft beer scene started to take off and evolve… for example, there’s the story about a young couple from Southern California…Natalie and her boyfriend Vinnie.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Natalie \u003c/b>\u003cb>Cilurzo\u003c/b>\u003cb>:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> I asked him what he wanted to do with the rest of his life. Like, what do you want to be when you grow up that everybody asks you at that age? And he said, I want to own my own brewery. And I Said how do you know this? You’re not even old enough to buy beer. And he said, I just do. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Natalie brought Vinnie to see the Anchor Brewing tour for his 21st birthday in 1991. Dave gave the tour.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Fritz was there that day. I won’t claim to have been inspirational. But Fritz was certainly inspirational. The tour left a big impression on Vinnee … and on Dave too.\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> But he wrote me a thank you note, and I saved it for some reason. I just got this weird sense about him like “Maybe I should just save this note.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">30 years later… Vinnee comes back for a 2nd tour, this time at the invitation of Anchor Brewing. Because Vinnie and Natalie Cilurzo now run Russian River Brewing, makers of the popular Pliny the Elder imperial IPA. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Vinnie Cilurzo:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Dave whips out this piece of paper and it’s a handwritten letter just thanking him for the visit and whatnot. And I was, I was blown away that Dave still had that.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">So you can think of Anchor Brewing as sort of a parent or grandparent of many of the well-known craft breweries around today. Vinnie credits Anchor as an early inspiration. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Vinnie Cilurzo:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Anchor Liberty and Sierra Nevada Pale Ale were two, like, formidable beers that were in my– still are in my DNA. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And he’s leveraged that inspiration to great success… Here’s a perfect example. Before taking over Russian River, Vinnie opened his first brewery, called Blind Pig, in his hometown of Temecula California. He was young, and just starting out, so he had to buy his brewing equipment second hand. It was a little old, some of it was plastic, and it was kind of cobbled together. He was worried it might affect the taste of his beer. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Vinnie Cilurzo:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> So I just thought, Well, what if we take our IPA recipe and double all the hops and then raise the malt a little bit? So then we get a little higher alcohol content in a way, almost like kind of hide the flavors because we couldn’t afford to fail on the first brew. Granted, if it would have been contaminated, we would have dumped it. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But it wasn’t, and when they released the beer, it was good. So the next year they released another Double IPA… That’s right, Vinnie is credited with inventing that extra strong, extra hoppy style known as double IPA. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The spirit of innovation among local craft breweries has accelerated in recent decades. New hop varieties are coming out all the time – giving brewers flavors to experiment with that Fritz Maytag could only dream of back in the 60s.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Vinnie Cilurzo:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> I just dry hopped a beer today with a hop that is a– it’s a number, NZ-109, and we’re the second brewery in the world, I’ve been told, to use this hop. And so here we’re experimenting with this new hop variety. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Vinnie and his now wife Natalie showed me how it’s done at their state of the art brewery in Windsor California, about 10 miles north of Santa Rosa. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">sounds of brewing facility\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Vinnie Cilurzo giving a tour:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> So this is what the hops looked like before they went into the hop back. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Natalie \u003c/b>\u003cb>Cilurzo\u003c/b>\u003cb>:\u003c/b> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">If you think of like in cooking, you know, the hops would be like your herbs and spices and so you’d have your base recipe that you can then make the same best base recipe for several different beers. But you can you can dramatically alter them by just different hop varieties that you use. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The day I visited they were brewing a big batch of their happy hops IPA. As we walked through the brewery, we came across a couple large tubs of spent hops, still warm from being in the brew.. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>\u003ci>Sound of tour:\u003c/i>\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> So this is this could be Amarillo. It couldn’t stone fruit. Yeah, it could be a….Smell that you’re going to love this smell.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The still slightly damp hops smell amazing– a little piney, citrusy, with a note of freshly mown hay.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I was struck by just how passionate the people who work in craft beer really are. And how that enthusiasm translates into really good beer. I also got the sense that a lot of these breweries feel a camaraderie with each other…\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">: \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Lagunitas invited all employees and former employees of Anchor Brewing to an anchor appreciation party.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Vinnie Cilurzo:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> When Stone Brewing in Escondido had their second anniversary, they made a double IPA and they actually gave me credit on their on their label, which was pretty cool of Greg and Steve to do that. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">It could be that along with a philosophy of creative experimentation, Fritz Maytag’s “open source” style of welcoming brewers to Anchor also set a standard… where rather than cutthroat competition, brewers respect and cheer on each other’s creations, because they’re all doing something unique. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But the craft beer industry is facing some challenges right now. The pandemic hit everyone hard, and tastes change over time… alcoholic seltzers seem to be the hot thing right now. Plus, the market is a little saturated, and increasing costs can mean that breweries that were once considered ‘craft’ now don’t technically qualify because they’ve had to turn to larger business partners. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Before it closed, Anchor was sold to Sapporo in 2017, making it no longer a craft brewery. Petaluma-based Lagunitas, another brewery popular for its creative beers, doesn’t technically qualify anymore. Heiniken bought a 50% stake in the company in 2015. But maybe rigid qualifications like that don’t fully reflect what’s at the heart of an industry based on creativity… \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Vinnie Cilurzo:\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> I define craft brewing as quality, quality driven. And and at the end of the day, I’m actually not sure anymore if it matters who owns you or whatnot. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Historian Dave Burkhart summed it up nicely too… \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Dave Burkhart\u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">: A craft beer is a distinctive, aesthetically pleasing alcoholic beverage made from malted grain whose taste, aroma, quality and consistency reflect the skill, integrity and creative imagination of its brewer. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Amanda Font: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">As a fellow beer lover, I’ll drink to that. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">sound of cheers\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Olivia Allen-Price: \u003c/b>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">That was Bay Curious producer Amanda Font. Big thanks to Ricky Tjandra for sending in that question. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">It’s a new month and that means… there’s a new voting round up at BayCurious.org. Head over to cast your vote for what question you think we should answer next. It only takes a few seconds! Also, there’s a new monthly trivia contest question … hang on at the end of this episode for a chance to win.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Bay Curious is made in San Francisco at member-supported KQED. Our show is produced by Amanda Font, Christopher Beale and me, Olivia Allen-Price. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Additional support from Jen Chien, Katie Sprenger, Cesar Saldana, Maha Sanad, Holly Kernan and the whole KEQD Family. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Have a good one, everybody!\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/news/11969212/how-san-franciscos-anchor-brewing-started-the-craft-beer-craze","authors":["8637"],"programs":["news_33523"],"series":["news_17986"],"categories":["news_8"],"tags":["news_32908","news_3631","news_21212","news_333","news_6627"],"featImg":"news_11969213","label":"news_33523"},"news_11967659":{"type":"posts","id":"news_11967659","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"news","id":"11967659","score":null,"sort":[1700251251000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"chinatown-walking-tour-spotlights-rich-culinary-history-during-apec","title":"Chinatown Walking Tour Spotlights Rich Culinary History During APEC","publishDate":1700251251,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Chinatown Walking Tour Spotlights Rich Culinary History During APEC | KQED","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>[dropcap]I[/dropcap]n his booming announcer voice and wearing a classy black suit and pair of sunglasses, Steven Lee recounted his first memories of dining at Sam Wo Restaurant in San Francisco’s Chinatown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a 20-year-old San Francisco State University student, he stepped into the establishment with friends after a late night out. With its doors open until 3 a.m., the restaurant satiated the cravings of hungry customers by serving inexpensive, classic Cantonese dishes like chicken jook, wonton soup, chow fun, sweet and sour pork and rice noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grandparents brought their children to learn how to use chopsticks. Mahjong players, with their minds fixed on a plate of $4 chow mein, filtered in after the parlors closed for the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Little did Lee know that decades later, he would be vital in raising money for Sam Wo’s resurrection in a humble location steps away from Portsmouth Square. After more than 100 years of service, a change in ownership and location, the reputation of having the “world’s rudest waiter” and maintaining a place in the ever-changing landscape of the country’s oldest Chinatown, Sam Wo endures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11967533\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11967533\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-16-BL.jpg\" alt=\"A group of people walk on a crosswalk across a wet city street.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-16-BL.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-16-BL-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-16-BL-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-16-BL-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-16-BL-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Steven Lee (center), co-founder of Chinatown nightclub Lion’s Den, leads a walking tour of the neighborhood for attendees of the APEC conference in San Francisco on Wednesday. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With President Joe Biden and world leaders from the Pacific Rim, including President Xi Jinping of China, in San Francisco for the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) summit, it has put neighborhoods like Chinatown in the spotlight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee wants the light to shine on legacy establishments like Sam Wo and the new restaurants reimagining Chinatown. That was the premise behind Wednesday night’s walking tour of the neighborhood’s beloved restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee, the city’s former entertainment commissioner, created the tour with Beverly Yip, an events and hospitality entrepreneur. Together, they led a diverse group of about a dozen summit attendees, some of whom were journalists, to iconic spots while weaving in personal anecdotes, history and stories. At hole-in-the-wall to-go spots, Michelin-star restaurants, chic lounges and revamped eateries, attendees met with chefs, owners and employees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11967534\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11967534\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-06-BL.jpg\" alt=\"A hand reaches for one of five dumplings on a dish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-06-BL.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-06-BL-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-06-BL-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-06-BL-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-06-BL-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dishes are served to guests at China Live during a Chinatown walking tour for APEC attendees in San Francisco on Wednesday. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The group started at China Live, which offers an elevated take on Chinese cuisine and is known for its Peking duck. Next was Osmanthus Dim Sum Lounge. The tour stopped at the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory, where tens of thousands of fortune cookies are made by hand daily and images of visiting celebrities decorate the walls.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID=news_11742748]Also on the itinerary: Empress by Boon, R & G Lounge, Capital, Mister Jiu’s and Hang Ah Tea Room, the oldest dim sum restaurant in America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee, 66, is also a Chinatown institution. He founded several clubs, including Lion’s Den, which is just a couple of blocks away from Sam Wo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Monday, Lee met with a KQED reporter at Sam Wo. After showing his signature on the bottom of the tables, he explained each weathered photograph on the walls. On the way to his club, locals shouted greetings. Some accompanied him for a few moments, while others just simply embraced him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yip said Chinatown runs in her blood. She lived on Sacramento Street growing up. Her father worked at a restaurant and her mom owned a business. When she was in high school, she competed for Miss Chinatown USA. She agreed to co-lead the tour, drawn to the fact attendees would “see Chinatown through our eyes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee spoke of the “battle of Chinatown” and the lingering perception of the area as unsafe and dirty. He wants that to change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“During AAPI hate — even before that really was heavy-hitting, before COVID — you would come to Chinatown and all the restaurants would be empty,” Lee said. “But if you go through the Stockton Tunnel and hit Union Square or even go to North Beach, there’s lines waiting to get in.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11967527\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11967527\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-07-BL.jpg\" alt=\"A group of people sit at a table in a restaurant turned toward two people speaking.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-07-BL.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-07-BL-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-07-BL-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-07-BL-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-07-BL-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dishes are served to guests at China Live during Wednesday’s Chinatown walking tour for APEC attendees in San Francisco. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The summit — and the tour, on a smaller scale — can work to reverse the perception, he hopes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The biggest thing we hope for is to send that message that Chinatown and San Francisco, in general, that we are clean. We are safe,” he said. “We’re not any different from any other city. It’s just that we get the publicity.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before coming to the tour, Zahara Stroud, an APEC attendee who lives in the South Bay, rarely visited Chinatown. She thought it was a crowded cluster of streets filled with tourist shops. She said she thought it was “a very casual atmosphere — you walk in, you grab your food and leave.” She went home with a different mindset.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Tonight, we learned about the families who still run these restaurants as a dedication of love, and we also got to see some of the new owners who are trying to upgrade the experience of eating in Chinatown to a new level,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"A Wednesday evening walking tour showcased many of Chinatown's beloved legacy establishments for APEC attendees, as well as new restaurants reimagining the San Francisco neighborhood.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1700250345,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":908},"headData":{"title":"Chinatown Walking Tour Spotlights Rich Culinary History During APEC | KQED","description":"A Wednesday evening walking tour showcased many of Chinatown's beloved legacy establishments for APEC attendees, as well as new restaurants reimagining the San Francisco neighborhood.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"source":"Food","nprByline":"Naomi Vanderlip","excludeFromSiteSearch":"Include","showOnAuthorArchivePages":"No","articleAge":"0","path":"/news/11967659/chinatown-walking-tour-spotlights-rich-culinary-history-during-apec","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class=\"utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__dropcapShortcode__dropcap\">I\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>n his booming announcer voice and wearing a classy black suit and pair of sunglasses, Steven Lee recounted his first memories of dining at Sam Wo Restaurant in San Francisco’s Chinatown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a 20-year-old San Francisco State University student, he stepped into the establishment with friends after a late night out. With its doors open until 3 a.m., the restaurant satiated the cravings of hungry customers by serving inexpensive, classic Cantonese dishes like chicken jook, wonton soup, chow fun, sweet and sour pork and rice noodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grandparents brought their children to learn how to use chopsticks. Mahjong players, with their minds fixed on a plate of $4 chow mein, filtered in after the parlors closed for the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Little did Lee know that decades later, he would be vital in raising money for Sam Wo’s resurrection in a humble location steps away from Portsmouth Square. After more than 100 years of service, a change in ownership and location, the reputation of having the “world’s rudest waiter” and maintaining a place in the ever-changing landscape of the country’s oldest Chinatown, Sam Wo endures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11967533\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11967533\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-16-BL.jpg\" alt=\"A group of people walk on a crosswalk across a wet city street.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-16-BL.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-16-BL-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-16-BL-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-16-BL-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-16-BL-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Steven Lee (center), co-founder of Chinatown nightclub Lion’s Den, leads a walking tour of the neighborhood for attendees of the APEC conference in San Francisco on Wednesday. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With President Joe Biden and world leaders from the Pacific Rim, including President Xi Jinping of China, in San Francisco for the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) summit, it has put neighborhoods like Chinatown in the spotlight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee wants the light to shine on legacy establishments like Sam Wo and the new restaurants reimagining Chinatown. That was the premise behind Wednesday night’s walking tour of the neighborhood’s beloved restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee, the city’s former entertainment commissioner, created the tour with Beverly Yip, an events and hospitality entrepreneur. Together, they led a diverse group of about a dozen summit attendees, some of whom were journalists, to iconic spots while weaving in personal anecdotes, history and stories. At hole-in-the-wall to-go spots, Michelin-star restaurants, chic lounges and revamped eateries, attendees met with chefs, owners and employees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11967534\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11967534\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-06-BL.jpg\" alt=\"A hand reaches for one of five dumplings on a dish.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-06-BL.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-06-BL-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-06-BL-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-06-BL-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-06-BL-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dishes are served to guests at China Live during a Chinatown walking tour for APEC attendees in San Francisco on Wednesday. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The group started at China Live, which offers an elevated take on Chinese cuisine and is known for its Peking duck. Next was Osmanthus Dim Sum Lounge. The tour stopped at the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory, where tens of thousands of fortune cookies are made by hand daily and images of visiting celebrities decorate the walls.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"news_11742748","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Also on the itinerary: Empress by Boon, R & G Lounge, Capital, Mister Jiu’s and Hang Ah Tea Room, the oldest dim sum restaurant in America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee, 66, is also a Chinatown institution. He founded several clubs, including Lion’s Den, which is just a couple of blocks away from Sam Wo.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Monday, Lee met with a KQED reporter at Sam Wo. After showing his signature on the bottom of the tables, he explained each weathered photograph on the walls. On the way to his club, locals shouted greetings. Some accompanied him for a few moments, while others just simply embraced him.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yip said Chinatown runs in her blood. She lived on Sacramento Street growing up. Her father worked at a restaurant and her mom owned a business. When she was in high school, she competed for Miss Chinatown USA. She agreed to co-lead the tour, drawn to the fact attendees would “see Chinatown through our eyes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee spoke of the “battle of Chinatown” and the lingering perception of the area as unsafe and dirty. He wants that to change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“During AAPI hate — even before that really was heavy-hitting, before COVID — you would come to Chinatown and all the restaurants would be empty,” Lee said. “But if you go through the Stockton Tunnel and hit Union Square or even go to North Beach, there’s lines waiting to get in.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11967527\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11967527\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-07-BL.jpg\" alt=\"A group of people sit at a table in a restaurant turned toward two people speaking.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-07-BL.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-07-BL-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-07-BL-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-07-BL-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/11/231115-APECWalkingTour-07-BL-1536x1024.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dishes are served to guests at China Live during Wednesday’s Chinatown walking tour for APEC attendees in San Francisco. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The summit — and the tour, on a smaller scale — can work to reverse the perception, he hopes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The biggest thing we hope for is to send that message that Chinatown and San Francisco, in general, that we are clean. We are safe,” he said. “We’re not any different from any other city. It’s just that we get the publicity.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before coming to the tour, Zahara Stroud, an APEC attendee who lives in the South Bay, rarely visited Chinatown. She thought it was a crowded cluster of streets filled with tourist shops. She said she thought it was “a very casual atmosphere — you walk in, you grab your food and leave.” She went home with a different mindset.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Tonight, we learned about the families who still run these restaurants as a dedication of love, and we also got to see some of the new owners who are trying to upgrade the experience of eating in Chinatown to a new level,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/news/11967659/chinatown-walking-tour-spotlights-rich-culinary-history-during-apec","authors":["byline_news_11967659"],"categories":["news_1758","news_24114","news_8"],"tags":["news_1867","news_393","news_27626","news_333","news_38","news_30076"],"featImg":"news_11967706","label":"source_news_11967659"},"news_11963721":{"type":"posts","id":"news_11963721","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"news","id":"11963721","score":null,"sort":[1696676447000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-sfs-rize-up-sourdough-puts-black-bakers-on-the-map","title":"How SF's Rize Up Sourdough Puts Black Bakers on the Map","publishDate":1696676447,"format":"standard","headTitle":"How SF’s Rize Up Sourdough Puts Black Bakers on the Map | KQED","labelTerm":{"term":26731,"site":"news"},"content":"\u003cp>Sourdough from Azikiwee Anderson’s Rize Up Bakery in San Francisco has become one of the most sought-after loaves in the Bay Area. Anderson plays with flavors treasured by immigrant diasporas that call California home. Ingredients like gochujang, ube, curry leaves and sesame are woven into the dough, packing a punch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m trying my best to take that source material, turn it on its ear and say this is beautiful as well,” he said. “I just am inspired by this flavor profile and I’m giving you a new offering. If you like these things, you might like this too.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11963737\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-image-11963737 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-07-BL-qut-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-07-BL-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-07-BL-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-07-BL-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-07-BL-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-07-BL-qut.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Avocado toast made with ube bread baked by Rize Up Bakery sits on a table at Abacá restaurant in San Francisco on July 27, 2023, a Filipino-Californian restaurant near Fisherman’s Wharf. Rize Up’s sourdough is known for its inclusive flavors, taking inspiration from the many cultural diasporas found in California. The ube sourdough, made from a sweet purple yam traditionally found in many Filipino desserts, is particularly popular for its taste and purple color. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Anderson, 49, always loved bread. He was that person at a restaurant constantly asking for a refill of the bread basket. His favorite spot: Outerlands in San Francisco’s Outer Sunset neighborhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When I first started [making sourdough], that was like my Holy Grail,” he said. “Like, if I can make bread that’s like that, I would have broken the code.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size=\"medium\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Azikiwee Anderson, founder, Rize Up Bakery\"]‘The act of actually making sourdough made me happy and so I just did it more and more. And when it made me happy, it made other people happy. I could spend my whole life doing this.’[/pullquote]During shelter-in-place, when it seemed everyone started baking sourdough, Anderson got to work trying to recreate that loaf. The finicky process of fermenting the sourdough starter to produce the right amount of rise and baking the loaves at the perfect temperature became meditative for Anderson. He found baking helped him process the emotional trauma of the pandemic and incidents of police violence that sparked protests in 2020.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I didn’t even know I was going to love to do it, until the act of doing it calmed my mind and kinda healed part of my heart,” he said. “The act of actually making sourdough made me happy and so I just did it more and more. And when it made me happy, it made other people happy. I could spend my whole life doing this.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11958690\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-image-11958690 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68058_230817-RizeUpBakery-15-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A person with a goatee and wearing an apron.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68058_230817-RizeUpBakery-15-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68058_230817-RizeUpBakery-15-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68058_230817-RizeUpBakery-15-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68058_230817-RizeUpBakery-15-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68058_230817-RizeUpBakery-15-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68058_230817-RizeUpBakery-15-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Founder Azikiwee Anderson, 49, poses for a portrait outside of Rize Up Bakery in San Francisco on Aug. 17, 2023. Anderson started Rize Up Bakery in his backyard during the pandemic. Now his sourdough loaves have become so popular, he moved to a commercial kitchen to keep up with demand. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Months after he started baking sourdough, he started selling loaves out of his backyard in San Francisco’s Richmond neighborhood. Soon, people lined up for the coveted bread, and Rize Up Bakery was born.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Anderson’s loaves are sold at San Francisco grocery stores including Rainbow Grocery and Gus’s Community Market, and is found on menus at buzzy restaurants including Flour + Water, ABACÁ and The Morris. To match the demand, Anderson moved to a commercial kitchen last fall, hiring a slew of new bakers to build his company.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A racial divide in the baking world\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Before the pandemic, Anderson worked in professional kitchens and in private catering. At some of his restaurant jobs, he noticed a racial divide among staff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m a 6-foot-3 Black guy. You walk into a kitchen and I stand out like a sore thumb,” he said. “There was this weird color line where it’s like all the brown people come in and get everything ready and then all the white folks with tattoos show up and they make twice as much and they’re the ones you see.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it came to hiring for his bakery, he wanted to do things a different way. Most of his bakers have no professional experience in kitchens. Many joined after following Anderson on Instagram.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11963739\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-image-11963739 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230817-RizeUpBakery-11-BL-qut-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A man with a goatee holds his hands above a purple loaf of bread with a woman's back in the foreground.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230817-RizeUpBakery-11-BL-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230817-RizeUpBakery-11-BL-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230817-RizeUpBakery-11-BL-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230817-RizeUpBakery-11-BL-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230817-RizeUpBakery-11-BL-qut.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Founder Azikiwee Anderson prepares dough for their Ube Loaf at Rize Up Bakery in San Francisco on Aug. 17, 2023. When hiring more bakers for his kitchen, Azikiwee Anderson looked for enthusiasm, not just prior experience in a kitchen. Most of his bakers have little to no experience in a professional kitchen and joined his team after seeing his bakery grow through Instagram. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“It’s expensive, because most of the people that I hired didn’t have very much experience, so we’re teaching them from the ground up,” he said. “The people here chose to be here. They weren’t headhunted, they weren’t offered a lot of money. They said ‘I want to do this with you.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Susie Breuer worked in the fashion industry for more than 30 years, but right before the pandemic, she decided she wanted a career change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I wanted to make something which was compostable and didn’t just land in landfill,” Breuer said. “I’d always enjoyed cooking. I want to work towards a product that nourishes people, that is also better for the planet than a pile of clothes that we don’t need.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She now handles Rize Up’s recipe development and prepares all the inclusions that go into Anderson’s creative loaves. She chops the scallions and shops for the gochujang that go into the K-Pop loaf. She also sources the curry leaves that go into the Masala loaf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rize Up’s ube sourdough loaf is one of their most popular flavors. When Anderson was creating the flavor, it took several iterations to get right. To make sure the flavors were right, he consulted Filipino chefs, like pastry chef Joana Bautista of \u003ca href=\"https://www.restaurantabaca.com/\">ABACÁ\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I had bought one from him and it was still in the testing phase. He asked me how it was and I was like ‘I don’t really get the ube yet. You need more ube,’” Bautista recalled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ube has taken off as a popular ingredient found everywhere from expensive bakeries to the Trader Joe’s freezer aisle. But Bautista says ube’s nuanced, earthy flavor often gets flattened by sugar and ends up just tasting sweet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I feel like they didn’t do the ingredient justice,” she said. “They jump on the bandwagon but then there’s not really any thought process into how to make it taste authentic or like how a Filipino person would eat it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11963740\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-image-11963740 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-22-BL-qut-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-22-BL-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-22-BL-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-22-BL-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-22-BL-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-22-BL-qut.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Avocado toast made with ube bread baked by Rize Up Bakery sits on a table in San Francisco on July 27, 2023. ABACÁ, a popular Filipino restaurant close to San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf, uses Rize Up’s ube sourdough as a base for their avocado toast. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When Bautista tried Rize Up’s ube loaf while it was still being developed, she knew the loaf needed ube halaya, a milk jam made from the tuber that gives ube desserts their iconic flavor. Now, Anderson and his team make ube halaya from scratch, giving the bread a beautiful purple color and a subtle earthy, sweet flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“At the beginning, it [cost] over $20 a loaf to make, because of all the stuff that goes into it and all the times I made it and it didn’t turn out because of all the extra stuff I’m putting into it,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If you take a bite out of ube halaya and you take a bite of the ube sourdough, they’re not the same thing. But they’re both beautiful and they show that they come from the Filipino background,” he said. “The key is to not pretend like you made something new but to embrace where it came from.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11958688\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-image-11958688 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68052_230817-RizeUpBakery-06-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"The hands of someone wearing an apron works with purple dough.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68052_230817-RizeUpBakery-06-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68052_230817-RizeUpBakery-06-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68052_230817-RizeUpBakery-06-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68052_230817-RizeUpBakery-06-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68052_230817-RizeUpBakery-06-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68052_230817-RizeUpBakery-06-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Founder Azikiwee Anderson prepares dough for their Ube Loaf at Rize Up Bakery in San Francisco on Aug. 17, 2023. His team makes ube halaya, a milk jam made from the root vegetable, that gives the bread a purple color and subtle ube flavor. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Recently, Rize Up’s offerings have expanded outside of bread. Anderson is playing with sourdough to create the best croutons, cookies, biscuits and more by building off the flavors and techniques he’s already working with.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside tag=\"food, flavor profiles\" label=\"More Related Stories\"]“At the beginning, it was just me, so something else [other than sourdough loaves] wasn’t going to happen,” he said. “And then we got to a certain level where there’s opportunity.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As someone who has experienced housing insecurity himself, Anderson knew exactly how he wanted to give back to the San Francisco residents who can’t afford his $15 loaves. Last December, Rize Up started offering a “pay-it-forward” loaf, where customers receive a discount if they buy a loaf for themselves and one to donate to a San Francisco food bank.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I know that we make beautiful bread with really high-end ingredients. And I just thought, instead of people getting junk that’s full of preservatives, I wanted to inspire other people to try to make a difference,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"In this flavor profile, we learn about sourdough from Azikiwee Anderson's Rize Up Bakery in San Francisco and why it has become one of the most sought-after loaves in the Bay Area. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1696707828,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":28,"wordCount":1654},"headData":{"title":"How SF's Rize Up Sourdough Puts Black Bakers on the Map | KQED","description":"In this flavor profile, we learn about sourdough from Azikiwee Anderson's Rize Up Bakery in San Francisco and why it has become one of the most sought-after loaves in the Bay Area. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"audioUrl":"https://traffic.omny.fm/d/clips/0af137ef-751e-4b19-a055-aaef00d2d578/ffca7e9f-6831-41c5-bcaf-aaef00f5a073/1efb8dbb-22fa-45c6-aa46-b08b013aa2d2/audio.mp3","excludeFromSiteSearch":"Include","articleAge":"0","path":"/news/11963721/how-sfs-rize-up-sourdough-puts-black-bakers-on-the-map","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Sourdough from Azikiwee Anderson’s Rize Up Bakery in San Francisco has become one of the most sought-after loaves in the Bay Area. Anderson plays with flavors treasured by immigrant diasporas that call California home. Ingredients like gochujang, ube, curry leaves and sesame are woven into the dough, packing a punch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m trying my best to take that source material, turn it on its ear and say this is beautiful as well,” he said. “I just am inspired by this flavor profile and I’m giving you a new offering. If you like these things, you might like this too.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11963737\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-image-11963737 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-07-BL-qut-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-07-BL-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-07-BL-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-07-BL-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-07-BL-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-07-BL-qut.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Avocado toast made with ube bread baked by Rize Up Bakery sits on a table at Abacá restaurant in San Francisco on July 27, 2023, a Filipino-Californian restaurant near Fisherman’s Wharf. Rize Up’s sourdough is known for its inclusive flavors, taking inspiration from the many cultural diasporas found in California. The ube sourdough, made from a sweet purple yam traditionally found in many Filipino desserts, is particularly popular for its taste and purple color. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Anderson, 49, always loved bread. He was that person at a restaurant constantly asking for a refill of the bread basket. His favorite spot: Outerlands in San Francisco’s Outer Sunset neighborhood.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When I first started [making sourdough], that was like my Holy Grail,” he said. “Like, if I can make bread that’s like that, I would have broken the code.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"‘The act of actually making sourdough made me happy and so I just did it more and more. And when it made me happy, it made other people happy. I could spend my whole life doing this.’","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"medium","align":"right","citation":"Azikiwee Anderson, founder, Rize Up Bakery","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>During shelter-in-place, when it seemed everyone started baking sourdough, Anderson got to work trying to recreate that loaf. The finicky process of fermenting the sourdough starter to produce the right amount of rise and baking the loaves at the perfect temperature became meditative for Anderson. He found baking helped him process the emotional trauma of the pandemic and incidents of police violence that sparked protests in 2020.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I didn’t even know I was going to love to do it, until the act of doing it calmed my mind and kinda healed part of my heart,” he said. “The act of actually making sourdough made me happy and so I just did it more and more. And when it made me happy, it made other people happy. I could spend my whole life doing this.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11958690\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-image-11958690 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68058_230817-RizeUpBakery-15-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A person with a goatee and wearing an apron.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68058_230817-RizeUpBakery-15-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68058_230817-RizeUpBakery-15-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68058_230817-RizeUpBakery-15-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68058_230817-RizeUpBakery-15-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68058_230817-RizeUpBakery-15-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68058_230817-RizeUpBakery-15-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Founder Azikiwee Anderson, 49, poses for a portrait outside of Rize Up Bakery in San Francisco on Aug. 17, 2023. Anderson started Rize Up Bakery in his backyard during the pandemic. Now his sourdough loaves have become so popular, he moved to a commercial kitchen to keep up with demand. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Months after he started baking sourdough, he started selling loaves out of his backyard in San Francisco’s Richmond neighborhood. Soon, people lined up for the coveted bread, and Rize Up Bakery was born.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Anderson’s loaves are sold at San Francisco grocery stores including Rainbow Grocery and Gus’s Community Market, and is found on menus at buzzy restaurants including Flour + Water, ABACÁ and The Morris. To match the demand, Anderson moved to a commercial kitchen last fall, hiring a slew of new bakers to build his company.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A racial divide in the baking world\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Before the pandemic, Anderson worked in professional kitchens and in private catering. At some of his restaurant jobs, he noticed a racial divide among staff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m a 6-foot-3 Black guy. You walk into a kitchen and I stand out like a sore thumb,” he said. “There was this weird color line where it’s like all the brown people come in and get everything ready and then all the white folks with tattoos show up and they make twice as much and they’re the ones you see.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it came to hiring for his bakery, he wanted to do things a different way. Most of his bakers have no professional experience in kitchens. Many joined after following Anderson on Instagram.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11963739\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-image-11963739 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230817-RizeUpBakery-11-BL-qut-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A man with a goatee holds his hands above a purple loaf of bread with a woman's back in the foreground.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230817-RizeUpBakery-11-BL-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230817-RizeUpBakery-11-BL-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230817-RizeUpBakery-11-BL-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230817-RizeUpBakery-11-BL-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230817-RizeUpBakery-11-BL-qut.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Founder Azikiwee Anderson prepares dough for their Ube Loaf at Rize Up Bakery in San Francisco on Aug. 17, 2023. When hiring more bakers for his kitchen, Azikiwee Anderson looked for enthusiasm, not just prior experience in a kitchen. Most of his bakers have little to no experience in a professional kitchen and joined his team after seeing his bakery grow through Instagram. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“It’s expensive, because most of the people that I hired didn’t have very much experience, so we’re teaching them from the ground up,” he said. “The people here chose to be here. They weren’t headhunted, they weren’t offered a lot of money. They said ‘I want to do this with you.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Susie Breuer worked in the fashion industry for more than 30 years, but right before the pandemic, she decided she wanted a career change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I wanted to make something which was compostable and didn’t just land in landfill,” Breuer said. “I’d always enjoyed cooking. I want to work towards a product that nourishes people, that is also better for the planet than a pile of clothes that we don’t need.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She now handles Rize Up’s recipe development and prepares all the inclusions that go into Anderson’s creative loaves. She chops the scallions and shops for the gochujang that go into the K-Pop loaf. She also sources the curry leaves that go into the Masala loaf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rize Up’s ube sourdough loaf is one of their most popular flavors. When Anderson was creating the flavor, it took several iterations to get right. To make sure the flavors were right, he consulted Filipino chefs, like pastry chef Joana Bautista of \u003ca href=\"https://www.restaurantabaca.com/\">ABACÁ\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I had bought one from him and it was still in the testing phase. He asked me how it was and I was like ‘I don’t really get the ube yet. You need more ube,’” Bautista recalled.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ube has taken off as a popular ingredient found everywhere from expensive bakeries to the Trader Joe’s freezer aisle. But Bautista says ube’s nuanced, earthy flavor often gets flattened by sugar and ends up just tasting sweet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I feel like they didn’t do the ingredient justice,” she said. “They jump on the bandwagon but then there’s not really any thought process into how to make it taste authentic or like how a Filipino person would eat it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11963740\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-image-11963740 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-22-BL-qut-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-22-BL-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-22-BL-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-22-BL-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-22-BL-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/10/230727-AbacaFilipinoRestaurant-22-BL-qut.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Avocado toast made with ube bread baked by Rize Up Bakery sits on a table in San Francisco on July 27, 2023. ABACÁ, a popular Filipino restaurant close to San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf, uses Rize Up’s ube sourdough as a base for their avocado toast. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When Bautista tried Rize Up’s ube loaf while it was still being developed, she knew the loaf needed ube halaya, a milk jam made from the tuber that gives ube desserts their iconic flavor. Now, Anderson and his team make ube halaya from scratch, giving the bread a beautiful purple color and a subtle earthy, sweet flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“At the beginning, it [cost] over $20 a loaf to make, because of all the stuff that goes into it and all the times I made it and it didn’t turn out because of all the extra stuff I’m putting into it,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If you take a bite out of ube halaya and you take a bite of the ube sourdough, they’re not the same thing. But they’re both beautiful and they show that they come from the Filipino background,” he said. “The key is to not pretend like you made something new but to embrace where it came from.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11958688\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-image-11958688 size-medium\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68052_230817-RizeUpBakery-06-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"The hands of someone wearing an apron works with purple dough.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68052_230817-RizeUpBakery-06-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68052_230817-RizeUpBakery-06-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68052_230817-RizeUpBakery-06-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68052_230817-RizeUpBakery-06-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68052_230817-RizeUpBakery-06-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68052_230817-RizeUpBakery-06-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Founder Azikiwee Anderson prepares dough for their Ube Loaf at Rize Up Bakery in San Francisco on Aug. 17, 2023. His team makes ube halaya, a milk jam made from the root vegetable, that gives the bread a purple color and subtle ube flavor. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Recently, Rize Up’s offerings have expanded outside of bread. Anderson is playing with sourdough to create the best croutons, cookies, biscuits and more by building off the flavors and techniques he’s already working with.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"food, flavor profiles","label":"More Related Stories "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“At the beginning, it was just me, so something else [other than sourdough loaves] wasn’t going to happen,” he said. “And then we got to a certain level where there’s opportunity.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As someone who has experienced housing insecurity himself, Anderson knew exactly how he wanted to give back to the San Francisco residents who can’t afford his $15 loaves. Last December, Rize Up started offering a “pay-it-forward” loaf, where customers receive a discount if they buy a loaf for themselves and one to donate to a San Francisco food bank.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I know that we make beautiful bread with really high-end ingredients. And I just thought, instead of people getting junk that’s full of preservatives, I wanted to inspire other people to try to make a difference,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/news/11963721/how-sfs-rize-up-sourdough-puts-black-bakers-on-the-map","authors":["11672"],"programs":["news_72","news_26731"],"categories":["news_31795","news_28250","news_8"],"tags":["news_33302","news_33304","news_23671","news_27626","news_32866","news_333","news_33303","news_33301","news_30233"],"featImg":"news_11958689","label":"news_26731"},"news_11963136":{"type":"posts","id":"news_11963136","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"news","id":"11963136","score":null,"sort":[1696590024000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"flavor-profile-beyond-banh-mi-san-jose-pop-up-plays-with-classics-of-vietnamese-cuisine","title":"Beyond Bánh Mì: This San José Pop-Up Plays With Classics of Vietnamese Cuisine","publishDate":1696590024,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Beyond Bánh Mì: This San José Pop-Up Plays With Classics of Vietnamese Cuisine | KQED","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>Our Flavor Profile series looks at how people, some with little or no experience, started successful food businesses during the COVID-19 pandemic.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>DuyAn Le and Hieu Le have a habit of diving in feetfirst together. They knew within three days of meeting each other they would marry. “We like to jump in without any plans and figure it out,” said Hieu. “That’s like the theme of us, for sure.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How could they possibly know so soon? It’s not just that they both shared the same cultural heritage from the same part of southern Vietnam. It’s also that when they spend time in the kitchen together, they get excited about food in the same way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The couple started \u003ca href=\"https://www.hetsaycali.com\">Hết Sẩy\u003c/a> three-and-a-half years ago during the pandemic, jumping in feetfirst into the food business. Hieu spent three years as a line cook back in college. DuyAn was working retail at Costco. But they decided to make a pivot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Hết Sẩy pops up at least three times a week, mainly at farmers markets like the \u003ca href=\"https://www.hotplate.com/hetsay/ad6d8bb1-e42a-4ae0-a122-0889f396343f\">one on Fridays in front of Kaiser Permanente in Santa Clara\u003c/a>. Part of their mission? To shine a light on the flavors of the Mekong Delta, famous for its fish and fresh produce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11958692\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11958692\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68074_230818-HetSayRestaurant-18-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg\" alt='A line of people wait in front of a colorful tent with the words \"Hết Sẩy\" written on it.' width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68074_230818-HetSayRestaurant-18-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68074_230818-HetSayRestaurant-18-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68074_230818-HetSayRestaurant-18-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68074_230818-HetSayRestaurant-18-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68074_230818-HetSayRestaurant-18-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68074_230818-HetSayRestaurant-18-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">People wait in line at the Hết Sẩy pop-up restaurant at the Kaiser Farmers’ Market in Santa Clara on Aug. 18, 2023. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I want to showcase my regional food, the culture as well,” said DuyAn. “We are the rice basket of Vietnam, as well as all the produce, a lot of fish,” said DuyAn, whose family is Ming–Đại, or from the Mekong Delta region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The way that I think a lot of the Ming–Đại people approach food is that there’s a lot of abundance, in terms of flavor.” said Hieu. “There’s a lot of creativity, playing around with sour, savory, sweet, bitter even.”[aside tag=\"vietnamese, food\" label=\"More Related Stories\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They’re also looking to deconstruct and reconstruct familiar dishes, to pull in the flavors they’ve encountered in California, and apply those to the Mekong sensibility. They deliver a mash-up that delights the taste buds even if you are not particularly sophisticated about Vietnamese cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We also like using the fresh produce here, like strawberry and fennel. They are going well together,” said DuyAn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s been a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/93275/40-years-of-vietnamese-food-in-california-a-conversation-with-andrew-lam\">couple of generations now\u003c/a> since a wave of Vietnamese migration washed over California, and bánh mì and phở joined the pantheon of beloved dishes in the state. The Les like to play with the dishes they grew up with in a way they acknowledge their elders might not appreciate or understand. Hieu’s family in particular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hieu said most of his family said: “No one will get it.” They’re worried that non-Vietnamese customers won’t appreciate the food, or that the flavors won’t work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11958693\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11958693\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68075_230818-HetSayRestaurant-17-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A bowl of rice and shredded meat is arranges on a countertop.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68075_230818-HetSayRestaurant-17-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68075_230818-HetSayRestaurant-17-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68075_230818-HetSayRestaurant-17-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68075_230818-HetSayRestaurant-17-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68075_230818-HetSayRestaurant-17-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68075_230818-HetSayRestaurant-17-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jason Choate prepares a savory sticky rice dish at the Hết Sẩy pop-up restaurant at Kaiser Farmers’ Market in Santa Clara on Aug. 18, 2023. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But DuyAn’s family got on board early, including her mother who is coming to live with them from Vietnam. “My family encouraged us, “ she said. But they also offered some advice. “‘If you’re going to do something, focus [on it],’” they told her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The results are a little different from what you’re likely familiar with if you’re a fan of Saigon-centric Vietnamese cuisine. Take a dish like xôi mặn. It’s a rice dish, a classic comfort food in Vietnamese households. Which means, of course, that every household plays with the concept. It’s not just that the lạp xưởng, or Chinese-style smoked sausage is made from scratch. DuyAn and Hieu also center local ingredients. The sticky rice cooked in banana leaves with coconut water comes from \u003ca href=\"https://www.kodafarms.com\">Koda Farms\u003c/a> in the Central Valley. The strawberries and fennel come, when they’re in season, from the local farmers markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re evolving it to what we think is the best version of what this dish is meant to do,” Hieu said. “By incorporating things like a coconut chili sambal, which is an inspiration from South India, a flavor we’re really into, and incorporating something uniquely us and uniquely Bay Area.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then there’s the bánh mì Hết Sẩy style, served up by Quynh-Mai Nguyen in the Hết Sẩy tent. She first discovered the Les as a happy customer, and then started working for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Bánh mì basically means bread in Vietnamese,” Nguyen explained, as she put together the dish. “There’s different types of bánh mì with different toppings and ingredients. This bánh mì is made with braised pork and egg that’s cooked in coconut water, and it’s put inside the bánh mì with pickled mustard, as well as some bird’s eye chili and garlic. And then it’s topped off with the braised juices from the meat and egg.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alex Shoor, a candidate for San José City Council, has become a regular at the Rose Garden Farmer’s Market pop up in San José.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My girlfriend and I got three of the bánh mì sandwiches,” said Shoor, grinning. “We got a chicken one, a broccoli, goat cheese and apple one, and the braised pork. So we did a sampling.” His favorite? The braised pork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shoor says he always appreciates how creative Hết Sẩy is with their ingredients. “They’ve got unusual combinations, and they’ve definitely exposed me to new stuff over the years.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11958691\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11958691\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68064_230818-HetSayRestaurant-06-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A person wearing an apron and plastic gloves works with food in a large metal steamer.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68064_230818-HetSayRestaurant-06-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68064_230818-HetSayRestaurant-06-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68064_230818-HetSayRestaurant-06-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68064_230818-HetSayRestaurant-06-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68064_230818-HetSayRestaurant-06-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68064_230818-HetSayRestaurant-06-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Simon Le prepares dishes at the Hết Sẩy pop-up restaurant at the Kaiser Farmers’ Market in Santa Clara on Aug. 18, 2023. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like many couples in the food business, the Les are trying to figure out the financial calculus of making a pop up work. In their case, one partner still works a day job in tech. But Hết Sẩy is running, in large part, thanks to online crowd funding and the couple’s dynamic \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hetsay.cali/\">Instagram feed\u003c/a>. It’s taking some time for the money to roll in, but Hieu’s optimistic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I think we’re creating something that’s uniquely us and new. there’s a lot of things that we’re excited for,” he said. “And as long as we are able to keep creating and people are interested in what we’re doing, that’s the fulfillment that we’re looking for.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11958694\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11958694\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68077_230818-HetSayRestaurant-20-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A person in a large red hat pours drinks into plastic cups.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68077_230818-HetSayRestaurant-20-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68077_230818-HetSayRestaurant-20-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68077_230818-HetSayRestaurant-20-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68077_230818-HetSayRestaurant-20-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68077_230818-HetSayRestaurant-20-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68077_230818-HetSayRestaurant-20-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hết Sẩy co-owner DuyAn prepares a coffee drink at the pop-up restaurant at the Kaiser Farmers’ Market in Santa Clara on Aug. 18, 2023. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Hết Sẩy, a pop-up restaurant based in San Jose, is open mainly at farmers markets in the South Bay. Their mission: to shine a light on the flavors of the Mekong Delta, famous for its fish and fresh produce. We visit as part of our Flavor Profile series.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1696707262,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":23,"wordCount":1279},"headData":{"title":"Beyond Bánh Mì: This San José Pop-Up Plays With Classics of Vietnamese Cuisine | KQED","description":"Hết Sẩy, a pop-up restaurant based in San Jose, is open mainly at farmers markets in the South Bay. Their mission: to shine a light on the flavors of the Mekong Delta, famous for its fish and fresh produce. We visit as part of our Flavor Profile series.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"source":"Food","sourceUrl":"/food/","audioUrl":"https://traffic.omny.fm/d/clips/0af137ef-751e-4b19-a055-aaef00d2d578/ffca7e9f-6831-41c5-bcaf-aaef00f5a073/9f27e7ac-8360-4c01-8c85-b09300fba38b/audio.mp3","excludeFromSiteSearch":"Include","articleAge":"0","path":"/news/11963136/flavor-profile-beyond-banh-mi-san-jose-pop-up-plays-with-classics-of-vietnamese-cuisine","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Our Flavor Profile series looks at how people, some with little or no experience, started successful food businesses during the COVID-19 pandemic.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>DuyAn Le and Hieu Le have a habit of diving in feetfirst together. They knew within three days of meeting each other they would marry. “We like to jump in without any plans and figure it out,” said Hieu. “That’s like the theme of us, for sure.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How could they possibly know so soon? It’s not just that they both shared the same cultural heritage from the same part of southern Vietnam. It’s also that when they spend time in the kitchen together, they get excited about food in the same way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The couple started \u003ca href=\"https://www.hetsaycali.com\">Hết Sẩy\u003c/a> three-and-a-half years ago during the pandemic, jumping in feetfirst into the food business. Hieu spent three years as a line cook back in college. DuyAn was working retail at Costco. But they decided to make a pivot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Hết Sẩy pops up at least three times a week, mainly at farmers markets like the \u003ca href=\"https://www.hotplate.com/hetsay/ad6d8bb1-e42a-4ae0-a122-0889f396343f\">one on Fridays in front of Kaiser Permanente in Santa Clara\u003c/a>. Part of their mission? To shine a light on the flavors of the Mekong Delta, famous for its fish and fresh produce.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11958692\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11958692\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68074_230818-HetSayRestaurant-18-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg\" alt='A line of people wait in front of a colorful tent with the words \"Hết Sẩy\" written on it.' width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68074_230818-HetSayRestaurant-18-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68074_230818-HetSayRestaurant-18-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68074_230818-HetSayRestaurant-18-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68074_230818-HetSayRestaurant-18-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68074_230818-HetSayRestaurant-18-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68074_230818-HetSayRestaurant-18-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">People wait in line at the Hết Sẩy pop-up restaurant at the Kaiser Farmers’ Market in Santa Clara on Aug. 18, 2023. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I want to showcase my regional food, the culture as well,” said DuyAn. “We are the rice basket of Vietnam, as well as all the produce, a lot of fish,” said DuyAn, whose family is Ming–Đại, or from the Mekong Delta region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The way that I think a lot of the Ming–Đại people approach food is that there’s a lot of abundance, in terms of flavor.” said Hieu. “There’s a lot of creativity, playing around with sour, savory, sweet, bitter even.”\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"vietnamese, food","label":"More Related Stories "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They’re also looking to deconstruct and reconstruct familiar dishes, to pull in the flavors they’ve encountered in California, and apply those to the Mekong sensibility. They deliver a mash-up that delights the taste buds even if you are not particularly sophisticated about Vietnamese cuisine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We also like using the fresh produce here, like strawberry and fennel. They are going well together,” said DuyAn.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s been a \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/93275/40-years-of-vietnamese-food-in-california-a-conversation-with-andrew-lam\">couple of generations now\u003c/a> since a wave of Vietnamese migration washed over California, and bánh mì and phở joined the pantheon of beloved dishes in the state. The Les like to play with the dishes they grew up with in a way they acknowledge their elders might not appreciate or understand. Hieu’s family in particular.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hieu said most of his family said: “No one will get it.” They’re worried that non-Vietnamese customers won’t appreciate the food, or that the flavors won’t work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11958693\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11958693\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68075_230818-HetSayRestaurant-17-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A bowl of rice and shredded meat is arranges on a countertop.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68075_230818-HetSayRestaurant-17-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68075_230818-HetSayRestaurant-17-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68075_230818-HetSayRestaurant-17-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68075_230818-HetSayRestaurant-17-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68075_230818-HetSayRestaurant-17-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68075_230818-HetSayRestaurant-17-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jason Choate prepares a savory sticky rice dish at the Hết Sẩy pop-up restaurant at Kaiser Farmers’ Market in Santa Clara on Aug. 18, 2023. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But DuyAn’s family got on board early, including her mother who is coming to live with them from Vietnam. “My family encouraged us, “ she said. But they also offered some advice. “‘If you’re going to do something, focus [on it],’” they told her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The results are a little different from what you’re likely familiar with if you’re a fan of Saigon-centric Vietnamese cuisine. Take a dish like xôi mặn. It’s a rice dish, a classic comfort food in Vietnamese households. Which means, of course, that every household plays with the concept. It’s not just that the lạp xưởng, or Chinese-style smoked sausage is made from scratch. DuyAn and Hieu also center local ingredients. The sticky rice cooked in banana leaves with coconut water comes from \u003ca href=\"https://www.kodafarms.com\">Koda Farms\u003c/a> in the Central Valley. The strawberries and fennel come, when they’re in season, from the local farmers markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’re evolving it to what we think is the best version of what this dish is meant to do,” Hieu said. “By incorporating things like a coconut chili sambal, which is an inspiration from South India, a flavor we’re really into, and incorporating something uniquely us and uniquely Bay Area.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then there’s the bánh mì Hết Sẩy style, served up by Quynh-Mai Nguyen in the Hết Sẩy tent. She first discovered the Les as a happy customer, and then started working for them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Bánh mì basically means bread in Vietnamese,” Nguyen explained, as she put together the dish. “There’s different types of bánh mì with different toppings and ingredients. This bánh mì is made with braised pork and egg that’s cooked in coconut water, and it’s put inside the bánh mì with pickled mustard, as well as some bird’s eye chili and garlic. And then it’s topped off with the braised juices from the meat and egg.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alex Shoor, a candidate for San José City Council, has become a regular at the Rose Garden Farmer’s Market pop up in San José.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“My girlfriend and I got three of the bánh mì sandwiches,” said Shoor, grinning. “We got a chicken one, a broccoli, goat cheese and apple one, and the braised pork. So we did a sampling.” His favorite? The braised pork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shoor says he always appreciates how creative Hết Sẩy is with their ingredients. “They’ve got unusual combinations, and they’ve definitely exposed me to new stuff over the years.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11958691\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11958691\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68064_230818-HetSayRestaurant-06-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A person wearing an apron and plastic gloves works with food in a large metal steamer.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68064_230818-HetSayRestaurant-06-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68064_230818-HetSayRestaurant-06-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68064_230818-HetSayRestaurant-06-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68064_230818-HetSayRestaurant-06-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68064_230818-HetSayRestaurant-06-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68064_230818-HetSayRestaurant-06-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Simon Le prepares dishes at the Hết Sẩy pop-up restaurant at the Kaiser Farmers’ Market in Santa Clara on Aug. 18, 2023. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Like many couples in the food business, the Les are trying to figure out the financial calculus of making a pop up work. In their case, one partner still works a day job in tech. But Hết Sẩy is running, in large part, thanks to online crowd funding and the couple’s dynamic \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/hetsay.cali/\">Instagram feed\u003c/a>. It’s taking some time for the money to roll in, but Hieu’s optimistic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I think we’re creating something that’s uniquely us and new. there’s a lot of things that we’re excited for,” he said. “And as long as we are able to keep creating and people are interested in what we’re doing, that’s the fulfillment that we’re looking for.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11958694\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-11958694\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68077_230818-HetSayRestaurant-20-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A person in a large red hat pours drinks into plastic cups.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68077_230818-HetSayRestaurant-20-BL-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68077_230818-HetSayRestaurant-20-BL-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68077_230818-HetSayRestaurant-20-BL-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68077_230818-HetSayRestaurant-20-BL-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68077_230818-HetSayRestaurant-20-BL-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS68077_230818-HetSayRestaurant-20-BL-KQED.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hết Sẩy co-owner DuyAn prepares a coffee drink at the pop-up restaurant at the Kaiser Farmers’ Market in Santa Clara on Aug. 18, 2023. \u003ccite>(Beth LaBerge/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/news/11963136/flavor-profile-beyond-banh-mi-san-jose-pop-up-plays-with-classics-of-vietnamese-cuisine","authors":["251"],"programs":["news_72","news_26731"],"categories":["news_31795","news_24114","news_28250","news_8"],"tags":["news_32866","news_333","news_17286","news_30233","news_20851","news_30162","news_22604"],"featImg":"news_11958695","label":"source_news_11963136"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/possible-5gxfizEbKOJ-pbF5ASgxrs_.1400x1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/ATC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/powerpress/1440_0018_AmericanSuburb_iTunesTile_01.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/powerpress/1440_0017_BayCurious_iTunesTile_01.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/2021/10/BBC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/CodeSwitchLifeKit_StationGraphics_300x300EmailGraphic.png","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. 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