This Stockton Park Is a Weekend Haven for Hmong and Cambodian Bites
How Oakland Restaurant Wahpepah's Kitchen Reclaimed Native Dishes
Cafeteria Cook Brings Gourmet Dishes Inspired by Palauan Childhood to Lassen Community College
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How the Coronavirus Impacts a Food Bank in Remote Northern California
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Warmer Winter Nights Mean Small Cherry Crop
California Foodways: Winemaking a Spiritual Practice for Trappist Monks
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But along the southern end, the air is filled with wafts of smoke, the smell of grilled meats and karaoke tracks booming out of speakers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For more than 30 years, especially on weekends, Angel Cruz Park has been a destination for made-to-order dishes created by local food vendors, many of whom are Hmong and Cambodian immigrants. Locals argue over who has the best beef sticks or papaya salad.[pullquote size=\"medium\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Rotana Lach, food vendor, Angel Cruz Park in Stockton\"]‘I make beef stick, chicken stick, sausage, angel wing, stuffed chicken, lao sausage and papaya salad. I make everything by myself.’[/pullquote]The vendors that make this park a food-lovers destination start their days early. Rotana Lach was the first to arrive on a recent Sunday. At 7 a.m., before she even set up her cooking station, she swept the area clean with a tree branch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a mischievous smile, Lach explained that 15 years ago, when she was first establishing herself as a vendor in this park, she used to show up even earlier, at 2 or 3 in the morning, to stake out this prime spot. That didn’t make her too popular with other vendors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“After that, they get mad at me all the time,” Lach said with a little laugh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She began unloading her car, which was stuffed with folding tables, charcoal and cleaning supplies\u003cem>. \u003c/em>She pulled out coolers full of food she prepped at home in the middle of the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I make beef stick, chicken stick, sausage, angel wing, stuffed chicken, lao sausage and papaya salad,” she said. “I make everything by myself.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lach started cooking as a livelihood in a roundabout way. Growing up in Cambodia, she rejected her family’s efforts to get her to cook, saying it felt too traditional. Born in Battambang in 1974, the chaos of the war in Vietnam and ongoing regional conflicts was all around her.[aside label='More on California Foodways' tag='california-foodways']When she was a little girl, she said, a friend accidentally detonated an explosive near her, leaving her with burn scars that are still painful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Sometimes, it’s like my head hurts,” Lach said. “I cannot control myself, sometimes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few years after the explosion, Lach said her family moved out of the city to cultivate land closer to the Thai border. As she grew older, into her teen years, her family was even more eager for her to learn to cook. They saw it as a necessary skill for her future, but Lach resisted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I tell my stepmom, ‘No, I don’t want to cook,’” Lach said. “When people ask [about] marriage, tell them your daughter [doesn’t] know how to cook.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her plan to delay marriage worked for a while; suitors stopped asking to marry her. But Lach said, eventually, she did marry, and her husband brought her to Stockton, \u003ca href=\"https://www.pewresearch.org/social-trends/fact-sheet/asian-americans-cambodians-in-the-u-s/\">home to one of the largest populations of Cambodians in the country.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11972487\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11972487\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A person wearing a baseball cap smiles while working with food in an park setting.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bopha Om works at her cousin Rotana’s side, making papaya salad to order at Angel Cruz Park on Nov. 12, 2023. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That was 20 years ago, and she’s since divorced that husband. But the difficulty of those early days hasn’t left her. When she arrived in California, she only spoke Khmer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“No writing, no reading,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She didn’t speak any English, so she attended adult school for about five years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooking finally caught up to her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a husband and a growing family, she finally had to learn. At parties, she’d spy on what experienced cooks were doing. She also spent time online watching cooking videos on YouTube.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All that work paid off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, her stall at the Angel Cruz Park food market earns enough money to support her four kids and to send funds back to relatives in Cambodia.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A multigenerational community\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The vendors at this longstanding market represent several different generations within the Southeast Asian community. Many of the longest-standing stalls are run by older folks. Lach falls into the middle category. And then, there are the younger, newer folks, like Steve Kim.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“As a Cambodian American, we’re known for using a lemongrass paste,” Kim said. “[It] has like kaffir lime leaf, garlic, longa, turmeric.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11972484\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11972484\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A person in a baseball cap smiles while standing under a tent in an park setting.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Steve Kim at his stand at Angel Cruz Park on Nov. 12, 2023. Kim started selling three lemonades at the park in the summer of 2023 and has since added Cambodian food, waffles and boba teas to his menu. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Kim’s tent is fancier than the others, with laminated images of the items he sells: lemonades, boba tea, Cambodian food and waffles. The 30-year-old said his stomach led him to start cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“In the fourth grade, I was like, ‘Hey, mom’s always working. Dad is always working. You know, we come [home] after school [and we’re] starving.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He asked his mom to teach him some Cambodian basics — and his cooking evolved from there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After managing restaurants for years and making food videos on TikTok, he started selling at Angel Cruz Park in the summer of 2023. He wanted to see if he could build a customer base before jumping into the financial commitment of a full-fledged restaurant. [pullquote size=\"medium\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Steve Kim, food vendor, Angel Cruz Park\"]‘When the Southeast Asians migrated, they decided to showcase their food and their culture. … this park has grown a lot. The food is cheap; it’s made fresh to order. And it’s like a community event.’[/pullquote]“So once I got my business license all set up, my permits and everything, I was like, ‘Hey, let’s just try it out,’” Kim said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He started with three types of lemonade — strawberry, grapefruit and dragonfruit — and then added more items.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Angel Cruz Park market is a Stockton institution, Kim said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When the Southeast Asians migrated, they decided to showcase their food and their culture,” Kim said. “And since then, this park has grown a lot. The food is cheap; it’s made fresh to order. And it’s like a community event.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He likes that there are multiple generations at the park, elders who established this tradition, and people his age who are expanding on it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You hear a lot of negativity about Stockton, but once you come here and you see it [with] your own eyes, it’s not like that,” Kim said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"For more than 30 years, Angel Cruz Park in Stockton has been a destination for made-to-order dishes created by local food vendors, many of whom are Hmong and Cambodian immigrants. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1706294558,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":31,"wordCount":1178},"headData":{"title":"This Stockton Park Is a Weekend Haven for Hmong and Cambodian Bites | KQED","description":"For more than 30 years, Angel Cruz Park in Stockton has been a destination for made-to-order dishes created by local food vendors, many of whom are Hmong and Cambodian immigrants. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","headline":"This Stockton Park Is a Weekend Haven for Hmong and Cambodian Bites","datePublished":"2024-01-26T15:30:44.000Z","dateModified":"2024-01-26T18:42:38.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png","isAccessibleForFree":"Y","publisher":{"@type":"NewsMediaOrganization","@id":"https://www.kqed.org/#organization","name":"KQED","url":"https://www.kqed.org","logo":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}}},"audioUrl":"https://traffic.omny.fm/d/clips/0af137ef-751e-4b19-a055-aaef00d2d578/ffca7e9f-6831-41c5-bcaf-aaef00f5a073/b1229e45-a72d-4988-81aa-b10101815af7/audio.mp3","sticky":false,"excludeFromSiteSearch":"Include","articleAge":"0","path":"/news/11973699/this-stockton-park-is-a-weekend-haven-for-hmong-and-cambodian-bites","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>At first glance, Angel Cruz Park on the northern end of Stockton doesn’t appear extraordinary — there are tennis courts, a softball field, a playground and picnic tables. But along the southern end, the air is filled with wafts of smoke, the smell of grilled meats and karaoke tracks booming out of speakers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For more than 30 years, especially on weekends, Angel Cruz Park has been a destination for made-to-order dishes created by local food vendors, many of whom are Hmong and Cambodian immigrants. Locals argue over who has the best beef sticks or papaya salad.\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"‘I make beef stick, chicken stick, sausage, angel wing, stuffed chicken, lao sausage and papaya salad. I make everything by myself.’","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"medium","align":"right","citation":"Rotana Lach, food vendor, Angel Cruz Park in Stockton","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>The vendors that make this park a food-lovers destination start their days early. Rotana Lach was the first to arrive on a recent Sunday. At 7 a.m., before she even set up her cooking station, she swept the area clean with a tree branch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a mischievous smile, Lach explained that 15 years ago, when she was first establishing herself as a vendor in this park, she used to show up even earlier, at 2 or 3 in the morning, to stake out this prime spot. That didn’t make her too popular with other vendors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“After that, they get mad at me all the time,” Lach said with a little laugh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She began unloading her car, which was stuffed with folding tables, charcoal and cleaning supplies\u003cem>. \u003c/em>She pulled out coolers full of food she prepped at home in the middle of the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I make beef stick, chicken stick, sausage, angel wing, stuffed chicken, lao sausage and papaya salad,” she said. “I make everything by myself.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lach started cooking as a livelihood in a roundabout way. Growing up in Cambodia, she rejected her family’s efforts to get her to cook, saying it felt too traditional. Born in Battambang in 1974, the chaos of the war in Vietnam and ongoing regional conflicts was all around her.\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"label":"More on California Foodways ","tag":"california-foodways"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>When she was a little girl, she said, a friend accidentally detonated an explosive near her, leaving her with burn scars that are still painful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Sometimes, it’s like my head hurts,” Lach said. “I cannot control myself, sometimes.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few years after the explosion, Lach said her family moved out of the city to cultivate land closer to the Thai border. As she grew older, into her teen years, her family was even more eager for her to learn to cook. They saw it as a necessary skill for her future, but Lach resisted.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I tell my stepmom, ‘No, I don’t want to cook,’” Lach said. “When people ask [about] marriage, tell them your daughter [doesn’t] know how to cook.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her plan to delay marriage worked for a while; suitors stopped asking to marry her. But Lach said, eventually, she did marry, and her husband brought her to Stockton, \u003ca href=\"https://www.pewresearch.org/social-trends/fact-sheet/asian-americans-cambodians-in-the-u-s/\">home to one of the largest populations of Cambodians in the country.\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11972487\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11972487\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A person wearing a baseball cap smiles while working with food in an park setting.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-03-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bopha Om works at her cousin Rotana’s side, making papaya salad to order at Angel Cruz Park on Nov. 12, 2023. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>That was 20 years ago, and she’s since divorced that husband. But the difficulty of those early days hasn’t left her. When she arrived in California, she only spoke Khmer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“No writing, no reading,” she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She didn’t speak any English, so she attended adult school for about five years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooking finally caught up to her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a husband and a growing family, she finally had to learn. At parties, she’d spy on what experienced cooks were doing. She also spent time online watching cooking videos on YouTube.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All that work paid off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, her stall at the Angel Cruz Park food market earns enough money to support her four kids and to send funds back to relatives in Cambodia.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A multigenerational community\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The vendors at this longstanding market represent several different generations within the Southeast Asian community. Many of the longest-standing stalls are run by older folks. Lach falls into the middle category. And then, there are the younger, newer folks, like Steve Kim.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“As a Cambodian American, we’re known for using a lemongrass paste,” Kim said. “[It] has like kaffir lime leaf, garlic, longa, turmeric.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11972484\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11972484\" src=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"A person in a baseball cap smiles while standing under a tent in an park setting.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1333\" srcset=\"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED-800x533.jpg 800w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2024/01/240111-ANGEL-CRUZ-PARK-LM-01-KQED-1920x1280.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Steve Kim at his stand at Angel Cruz Park on Nov. 12, 2023. Kim started selling three lemonades at the park in the summer of 2023 and has since added Cambodian food, waffles and boba teas to his menu. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Kim’s tent is fancier than the others, with laminated images of the items he sells: lemonades, boba tea, Cambodian food and waffles. The 30-year-old said his stomach led him to start cooking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“In the fourth grade, I was like, ‘Hey, mom’s always working. Dad is always working. You know, we come [home] after school [and we’re] starving.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He asked his mom to teach him some Cambodian basics — and his cooking evolved from there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After managing restaurants for years and making food videos on TikTok, he started selling at Angel Cruz Park in the summer of 2023. He wanted to see if he could build a customer base before jumping into the financial commitment of a full-fledged restaurant. \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"‘When the Southeast Asians migrated, they decided to showcase their food and their culture. … this park has grown a lot. The food is cheap; it’s made fresh to order. And it’s like a community event.’","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"medium","align":"right","citation":"Steve Kim, food vendor, Angel Cruz Park","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“So once I got my business license all set up, my permits and everything, I was like, ‘Hey, let’s just try it out,’” Kim said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He started with three types of lemonade — strawberry, grapefruit and dragonfruit — and then added more items.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Angel Cruz Park market is a Stockton institution, Kim said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When the Southeast Asians migrated, they decided to showcase their food and their culture,” Kim said. “And since then, this park has grown a lot. The food is cheap; it’s made fresh to order. And it’s like a community event.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He likes that there are multiple generations at the park, elders who established this tradition, and people his age who are expanding on it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You hear a lot of negativity about Stockton, but once you come here and you see it [with] your own eyes, it’s not like that,” Kim said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/news/11973699/this-stockton-park-is-a-weekend-haven-for-hmong-and-cambodian-bites","authors":["3229"],"programs":["news_72","news_26731"],"categories":["news_8"],"tags":["news_17886","news_30864","news_22973","news_27626","news_333","news_20632","news_17708","news_33457","news_784","news_29436"],"featImg":"news_11972486","label":"news_26731"},"news_11958720":{"type":"posts","id":"news_11958720","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"news","id":"11958720","score":null,"sort":[1692972000000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"oakland-restaurant-wahpepahs-kitchen-rnative-dishes","title":"How Oakland Restaurant Wahpepah's Kitchen Reclaimed Native Dishes","publishDate":1692972000,"format":"standard","headTitle":"How Oakland Restaurant Wahpepah’s Kitchen Reclaimed Native Dishes | KQED","labelTerm":{"term":26731,"site":"news"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>Flavor Profile is our new series looking at how people, some with little or no experience, started successful food businesses during the COVID-19 pandemic.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Crystal Wahpepah wanted to be a chef since she was 7 years old.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I really, really loved cooking,” she says. “And I have that connection when it comes to the soil, to the land … this is something that just always came just so naturally.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like her grandfather and mother, Wahpepah is a registered member of the Kickapoo tribe of Oklahoma. She remembers learning to make fry bread with her aunty and grandmother and picking berries on the Hoopa Reservation where she spent time as a child.[pullquote size=\"medium\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Crystal Wahpepah, owner, Wahpepah’s Kitchen\"]‘I really, really loved cooking. And I have that connection when it comes to the soil, to the land … this is something that just always came just so naturally.’[/pullquote]While growing up on \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11880526/who-were-the-first-people-to-live-in-the-bay-area\">Ohlone land\u003c/a> in Oakland, Wahpepah was struck by the Bay Area’s lack of Native restaurants, despite the region’s large Indigenous population and palette for diverse cuisine. So she decided to change that. It wasn’t just a matter of culinary representation, it was a matter of reclaiming \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/134283/indigenous-food-security-is-dependent-on-food-sovereignty\">Native food sovereignty\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I feel this is the human right for everybody to have their own cultural foods and to eat it and to have that relationship with it on their homeland … or even not on their homeland,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2010, Wahpepah graduated from Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts. One year later, she launched one of the state’s first Indigenous woman-owned catering businesses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She became the first Native chef to appear on the Food Network show, \u003cem>Chopped\u003c/em>. Wahpepah and her team started cooking for high-profile clients like the White House and the James Beard Awards. But she says she wasn’t just feeding people, she was also educating them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m in San Francisco, in the tech world,” she says. “[I’m] going out of my Native community, serving these foods no one’s never heard of. So I had all the questions brought at me … all the way up to, ‘Oh yeah, this [is] Native American land?’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the beginning of 2020, she had just started selling snack bars online — made with wild rice, amaranth, pepita and cranberries — when COVID hit. Then, she found out that the kitchen where she ran her catering business was closing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She reached out to her community, to see if anyone had kitchen space she could share. A friend came back with a different proposal — she offered Wahpepah an entire restaurant in Oakland’s Fruitvale Station.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11953939\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11953939\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66553_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-12-ks-KQED.jpg\" alt='A woman in a red apron walks through a room on one wall of which a mural is painted of people wearing a variety of indigenous clothing and above which the words \"INDIGENOUS FOOD WARRIORS\" is written.' width=\"2000\" height=\"1331\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66553_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-12-ks-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66553_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-12-ks-KQED-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66553_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-12-ks-KQED-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66553_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-12-ks-KQED-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66553_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-12-ks-KQED-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66553_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-12-ks-KQED-1920x1278.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grace Rualo, 53, prepares for the day at Wahpepah’s Kitchen in the Fruitvale neighborhood of Oakland on June 23, 2023. \u003ccite>(Kori Suzuki/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At first, Wahpepah was hesitant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She was used to cooking behind the scenes. A restaurant was different.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When you have a restaurant, this is who you are,” she says. “This is your personality. This is your heart and your soul.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the pandemic, the Bay Area had some of the strictest COVID restrictions around indoor dining. Even if people could go out to eat, a lot of them were too scared to do so.[pullquote size=\"medium\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Crystal Wahpepah, owner, Wahpepah’s Kitchen\"]‘When you have a restaurant this is who you are. This is your personality. This is your heart and your soul.’[/pullquote]Opening a restaurant in the middle of that climate was a huge risk. Wahpepah meditated on the offer for about a year, weighing the financial uncertainty against what had always driven her. Ultimately, she decided it was time that Oakland needed a Native restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We have a huge Native community here in the Bay Area. I felt the need for our community to have that space and to represent when it comes to our foods,” she says. “Without knowing where we come from and who we are and what we ate … you have to ask yourself, who are we?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She opened \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13903531/wahpepahs-kitchen-fruitvale-indigenous-restaurant\">Wahpepah’s Kitchen\u003c/a> in Oakland’s Fruitvale Village in November 2021. Although she wasn’t sure what to expect, the response on opening day blew her away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I was just only expecting about like maybe 50, 75 people to show up on our opening. We had almost 1200. There was dancing, drums, music, celebration … I can still tear up to this day,” she says. “I was like, ‘Wow, our time has come.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>‘Lost from this land’\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>From the moment white settlers made contact with Native Americans, they strategically used food as a tactic of subjugation and suppression.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the mid-1800s, the U.S. Army “solved” what President Ulysses S. Grant called the country’s “Indian Problem” by slaughtering American bison — the main food and spiritual source of the Plains Indians — to near extinction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A century later, the Indian Relocation Act of 1956 forcibly removed tens of thousands of Native Americans — including Crystal Wahpepah’s grandparents — from their rural reservations into urban cities, severing Native people’s ties to their land and foodways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, members of the Standing Rock Sioux are fighting to keep the Dakota Access Pipeline from slicing through its reservation and poisoning its tribal water supply.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11953937\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11953937\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66549_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-11-ks-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Chiles ranging in color from red to deep maroon, their seeds and stems are seen in close-up.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1335\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66549_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-11-ks-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66549_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-11-ks-KQED-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66549_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-11-ks-KQED-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66549_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-11-ks-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66549_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-11-ks-KQED-1536x1025.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66549_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-11-ks-KQED-1920x1282.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A tray of California and New Mexico chiles sits on the counter at Wahpepah’s Kitchen. \u003ccite>(Kori Suzuki/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“All of us [have] the same story of how our foods were lost, just because … being displaced … our foods were pretty much taken away from us,” she says.[pullquote size=\"medium\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Crystal Wahpepah, owner, Wahpepah’s Kitchen\"]‘Our food is medicine. Our food is healing. If we don’t have these foods in the community … how are we going to heal from the past?’[/pullquote]As a result of this historical trauma, Wahpepah says many Native people are “lost from this land.” Her vision for Wahpepah’s Kitchen is a physical space to heal Native American people by reconnecting them with their Native foods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our food is medicine. Our food is healing,” she says. “If we don’t have these foods in the community … how are we going to heal from the past?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Healing starts with the people. The restaurant’s staff represents 17 different tribes. This includes Wahpepah’s three daughters, who are members of the Big Valley Rancheria Pomo Tribe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, of course, there’s the food.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>‘A little place of home’\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The menus at Wahpepah’s Kitchen are written in the Kickapoo language with English translations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starters include ihskopihpeniiya peeskoneiihi taquitos — hand-rolled taquitos with smoked hibiscus and a mixture of sweet and white potatoes. You can order a side of peesekithi-a, deer sticks with a chokecherry dipping sauce. For dessert, there’s the popular sweet miinaki keetaheehi, which is a fry bread topped with mixed berries and coconut whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11958809\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11958809\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS66541_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-08-ks-qut.jpg\" alt=\"A close-up shot of hands kneading dough in a large, metal bowl. Flour is dusted all over the countertop.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1282\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS66541_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-08-ks-qut.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS66541_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-08-ks-qut-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS66541_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-08-ks-qut-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS66541_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-08-ks-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS66541_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-08-ks-qut-1536x1026.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crystal Wahpepah tests a batch of fry bread dough. \u003ccite>(Kori Suzuki/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of the ingredients Wahpepah uses come directly from Native food producers: The blue corn comes from the northern Ute nation, the bison comes from the Cheyenne River, the beans come from the Salt River Pima-Maricopa Nation and the maple comes from the Ottawa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“In our culture and our beliefs, we are honored to have these foods … because this is something they have been reclaiming and reviving and protecting and saving,” she says.[pullquote size=\"medium\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Crystal Wahpepah, owner, Wahpepah’s Kitchen\"]‘It’s my little place of home, of happiness. If you can spark that little food memory, it’s actually a really good endorphin to heal.’[/pullquote]Her favorite dish on the menu is the Three Sisters Veggie Bowl with rice, squash and beans. The other ingredients rotate seasonally, so the bowl features produce from as many as five different tribes at once. This summer, the bowl includes strawberries, which she says remind her of those summers spent with her grandfather.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s my little place of home, of happiness. If you can spark that little food memory, it’s actually a really good endorphin to heal,” she says. “I just want people to come here and be in this space and … relate to the foods.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And they’re not just coming to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People come to Wahpepah’s Kitchen bearing gifts. There’s an entire wall in the restaurant displaying the presents people bring for Wahpepah: mason jars packed with butternut squash seeds, seaweed, and blue corn flour, bundles of dried sage, and clay pots filled with succulents. These are gifts of gratitude from her community, to thank her for the home she’s created.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11953940\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11953940\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66561_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-22-ks-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Mason jars filled with various substances -- seeds, powders, herbs -- are aligned on bright yellow shelves\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1331\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66561_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-22-ks-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66561_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-22-ks-KQED-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66561_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-22-ks-KQED-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66561_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-22-ks-KQED-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66561_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-22-ks-KQED-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66561_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-22-ks-KQED-1920x1278.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Customers of Wahpepah’s Kitchen often gift mason jars packed with butternut squash seeds, seaweed, blue corn flour, clay pots filled with succulents and more. These gestures of gratitude from Crystal Wahpepah’s community are to thank her for the home she’s created in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Kori Suzuki/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“A lot of elders come in,” she says. “They’ll sit here and they say, ‘I never thought I would sit in a Native American restaurant. And I wanted to come here today.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Others come with an almost spiritual purpose, like the man who traveled all the way from Arizona by himself to spend his birthday at Wahpepah’s Kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Odelia Young and Vina Vo stopped by the restaurant on a Wednesday afternoon lunch break. Young has been a fan of the place since it opened. She’s not Native American and says coming here to eat is an opportunity for authentic connections with Indigenous culture and people.[aside postID=news_11954383 hero='https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/20230626-SAUCY-CHICK-05-KQED-1020x816.jpg']“I feel like it’s always like a sharing of culture with us,” Young says. “It isn’t just a place to come and consume — but it’s a place to come and connect.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vo, who is Vietnamese American, agrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The flavors are very different than what I’m used to,” she says. “I think when you’re able to look at different ingredients [and] different flavors, you can kind of get a feel for what was available at that time, in that land … and there are stories behind that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wahpepah hopes to share her food beyond the Bay Area. She is now working on a cookbook, which, on top of running a restaurant, is tough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s pretty much seven days a week. You definitely got to love what you do … and it’s definitely not about finance,” she says, with a laugh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But she says it’s worth it when she adds warm corn soups and fresh-baked cornbread to her menu in the fall — and feels her grandmother’s presence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“She might not be here physically, but she’s here,” Wahpepah says, smiling. “She would love it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Kickapoo Chef Crystal Wahpepah opened her restaurant in the middle of the pandemic as a space to heal Native people by reconnecting them with Native foods.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1693326038,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":43,"wordCount":1962},"headData":{"title":"How Oakland Restaurant Wahpepah's Kitchen Reclaimed Native Dishes | KQED","description":"Kickapoo Chef Crystal Wahpepah opened her restaurant in the middle of the pandemic as a space to heal Native people by reconnecting them with Native foods.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","headline":"How Oakland Restaurant Wahpepah's Kitchen Reclaimed Native Dishes","datePublished":"2023-08-25T14:00:00.000Z","dateModified":"2023-08-29T16:20:38.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png","isAccessibleForFree":"Y","publisher":{"@type":"NewsMediaOrganization","@id":"https://www.kqed.org/#organization","name":"KQED","url":"https://www.kqed.org","logo":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}}},"audioUrl":"https://traffic.omny.fm/d/clips/0af137ef-751e-4b19-a055-aaef00d2d578/ffca7e9f-6831-41c5-bcaf-aaef00f5a073/69cb54d3-4acd-4747-8af0-b069011d98c4/audio.mp3","excludeFromSiteSearch":"Include","articleAge":"0","path":"/news/11958720/oakland-restaurant-wahpepahs-kitchen-rnative-dishes","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Flavor Profile is our new series looking at how people, some with little or no experience, started successful food businesses during the COVID-19 pandemic.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Crystal Wahpepah wanted to be a chef since she was 7 years old.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I really, really loved cooking,” she says. “And I have that connection when it comes to the soil, to the land … this is something that just always came just so naturally.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like her grandfather and mother, Wahpepah is a registered member of the Kickapoo tribe of Oklahoma. She remembers learning to make fry bread with her aunty and grandmother and picking berries on the Hoopa Reservation where she spent time as a child.\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"‘I really, really loved cooking. And I have that connection when it comes to the soil, to the land … this is something that just always came just so naturally.’","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"medium","align":"right","citation":"Crystal Wahpepah, owner, Wahpepah’s Kitchen","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>While growing up on \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11880526/who-were-the-first-people-to-live-in-the-bay-area\">Ohlone land\u003c/a> in Oakland, Wahpepah was struck by the Bay Area’s lack of Native restaurants, despite the region’s large Indigenous population and palette for diverse cuisine. So she decided to change that. It wasn’t just a matter of culinary representation, it was a matter of reclaiming \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/134283/indigenous-food-security-is-dependent-on-food-sovereignty\">Native food sovereignty\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I feel this is the human right for everybody to have their own cultural foods and to eat it and to have that relationship with it on their homeland … or even not on their homeland,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2010, Wahpepah graduated from Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts. One year later, she launched one of the state’s first Indigenous woman-owned catering businesses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She became the first Native chef to appear on the Food Network show, \u003cem>Chopped\u003c/em>. Wahpepah and her team started cooking for high-profile clients like the White House and the James Beard Awards. But she says she wasn’t just feeding people, she was also educating them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’m in San Francisco, in the tech world,” she says. “[I’m] going out of my Native community, serving these foods no one’s never heard of. So I had all the questions brought at me … all the way up to, ‘Oh yeah, this [is] Native American land?’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the beginning of 2020, she had just started selling snack bars online — made with wild rice, amaranth, pepita and cranberries — when COVID hit. Then, she found out that the kitchen where she ran her catering business was closing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She reached out to her community, to see if anyone had kitchen space she could share. A friend came back with a different proposal — she offered Wahpepah an entire restaurant in Oakland’s Fruitvale Station.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11953939\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11953939\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66553_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-12-ks-KQED.jpg\" alt='A woman in a red apron walks through a room on one wall of which a mural is painted of people wearing a variety of indigenous clothing and above which the words \"INDIGENOUS FOOD WARRIORS\" is written.' width=\"2000\" height=\"1331\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66553_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-12-ks-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66553_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-12-ks-KQED-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66553_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-12-ks-KQED-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66553_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-12-ks-KQED-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66553_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-12-ks-KQED-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66553_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-12-ks-KQED-1920x1278.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Grace Rualo, 53, prepares for the day at Wahpepah’s Kitchen in the Fruitvale neighborhood of Oakland on June 23, 2023. \u003ccite>(Kori Suzuki/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At first, Wahpepah was hesitant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She was used to cooking behind the scenes. A restaurant was different.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When you have a restaurant, this is who you are,” she says. “This is your personality. This is your heart and your soul.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the pandemic, the Bay Area had some of the strictest COVID restrictions around indoor dining. Even if people could go out to eat, a lot of them were too scared to do so.\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"‘When you have a restaurant this is who you are. This is your personality. This is your heart and your soul.’","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"medium","align":"right","citation":"Crystal Wahpepah, owner, Wahpepah’s Kitchen","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Opening a restaurant in the middle of that climate was a huge risk. Wahpepah meditated on the offer for about a year, weighing the financial uncertainty against what had always driven her. Ultimately, she decided it was time that Oakland needed a Native restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We have a huge Native community here in the Bay Area. I felt the need for our community to have that space and to represent when it comes to our foods,” she says. “Without knowing where we come from and who we are and what we ate … you have to ask yourself, who are we?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She opened \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/arts/13903531/wahpepahs-kitchen-fruitvale-indigenous-restaurant\">Wahpepah’s Kitchen\u003c/a> in Oakland’s Fruitvale Village in November 2021. Although she wasn’t sure what to expect, the response on opening day blew her away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I was just only expecting about like maybe 50, 75 people to show up on our opening. We had almost 1200. There was dancing, drums, music, celebration … I can still tear up to this day,” she says. “I was like, ‘Wow, our time has come.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>‘Lost from this land’\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>From the moment white settlers made contact with Native Americans, they strategically used food as a tactic of subjugation and suppression.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the mid-1800s, the U.S. Army “solved” what President Ulysses S. Grant called the country’s “Indian Problem” by slaughtering American bison — the main food and spiritual source of the Plains Indians — to near extinction.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A century later, the Indian Relocation Act of 1956 forcibly removed tens of thousands of Native Americans — including Crystal Wahpepah’s grandparents — from their rural reservations into urban cities, severing Native people’s ties to their land and foodways.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, members of the Standing Rock Sioux are fighting to keep the Dakota Access Pipeline from slicing through its reservation and poisoning its tribal water supply.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11953937\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11953937\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66549_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-11-ks-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Chiles ranging in color from red to deep maroon, their seeds and stems are seen in close-up.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1335\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66549_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-11-ks-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66549_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-11-ks-KQED-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66549_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-11-ks-KQED-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66549_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-11-ks-KQED-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66549_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-11-ks-KQED-1536x1025.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66549_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-11-ks-KQED-1920x1282.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A tray of California and New Mexico chiles sits on the counter at Wahpepah’s Kitchen. \u003ccite>(Kori Suzuki/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“All of us [have] the same story of how our foods were lost, just because … being displaced … our foods were pretty much taken away from us,” she says.\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"‘Our food is medicine. Our food is healing. If we don’t have these foods in the community … how are we going to heal from the past?’","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"medium","align":"right","citation":"Crystal Wahpepah, owner, Wahpepah’s Kitchen","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>As a result of this historical trauma, Wahpepah says many Native people are “lost from this land.” Her vision for Wahpepah’s Kitchen is a physical space to heal Native American people by reconnecting them with their Native foods.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Our food is medicine. Our food is healing,” she says. “If we don’t have these foods in the community … how are we going to heal from the past?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Healing starts with the people. The restaurant’s staff represents 17 different tribes. This includes Wahpepah’s three daughters, who are members of the Big Valley Rancheria Pomo Tribe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, of course, there’s the food.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>‘A little place of home’\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>The menus at Wahpepah’s Kitchen are written in the Kickapoo language with English translations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starters include ihskopihpeniiya peeskoneiihi taquitos — hand-rolled taquitos with smoked hibiscus and a mixture of sweet and white potatoes. You can order a side of peesekithi-a, deer sticks with a chokecherry dipping sauce. For dessert, there’s the popular sweet miinaki keetaheehi, which is a fry bread topped with mixed berries and coconut whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11958809\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11958809\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS66541_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-08-ks-qut.jpg\" alt=\"A close-up shot of hands kneading dough in a large, metal bowl. Flour is dusted all over the countertop.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1282\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS66541_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-08-ks-qut.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS66541_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-08-ks-qut-800x534.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS66541_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-08-ks-qut-1020x681.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS66541_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-08-ks-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/08/RS66541_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-08-ks-qut-1536x1026.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Crystal Wahpepah tests a batch of fry bread dough. \u003ccite>(Kori Suzuki/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>All of the ingredients Wahpepah uses come directly from Native food producers: The blue corn comes from the northern Ute nation, the bison comes from the Cheyenne River, the beans come from the Salt River Pima-Maricopa Nation and the maple comes from the Ottawa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“In our culture and our beliefs, we are honored to have these foods … because this is something they have been reclaiming and reviving and protecting and saving,” she says.\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"‘It’s my little place of home, of happiness. If you can spark that little food memory, it’s actually a really good endorphin to heal.’","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"medium","align":"right","citation":"Crystal Wahpepah, owner, Wahpepah’s Kitchen","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Her favorite dish on the menu is the Three Sisters Veggie Bowl with rice, squash and beans. The other ingredients rotate seasonally, so the bowl features produce from as many as five different tribes at once. This summer, the bowl includes strawberries, which she says remind her of those summers spent with her grandfather.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s my little place of home, of happiness. If you can spark that little food memory, it’s actually a really good endorphin to heal,” she says. “I just want people to come here and be in this space and … relate to the foods.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And they’re not just coming to eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>People come to Wahpepah’s Kitchen bearing gifts. There’s an entire wall in the restaurant displaying the presents people bring for Wahpepah: mason jars packed with butternut squash seeds, seaweed, and blue corn flour, bundles of dried sage, and clay pots filled with succulents. These are gifts of gratitude from her community, to thank her for the home she’s created.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11953940\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"size-full wp-image-11953940\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66561_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-22-ks-KQED.jpg\" alt=\"Mason jars filled with various substances -- seeds, powders, herbs -- are aligned on bright yellow shelves\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1331\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66561_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-22-ks-KQED.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66561_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-22-ks-KQED-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66561_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-22-ks-KQED-1020x679.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66561_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-22-ks-KQED-160x106.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66561_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-22-ks-KQED-1536x1022.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/RS66561_230623-wahpepahs-kitchen-22-ks-KQED-1920x1278.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Customers of Wahpepah’s Kitchen often gift mason jars packed with butternut squash seeds, seaweed, blue corn flour, clay pots filled with succulents and more. These gestures of gratitude from Crystal Wahpepah’s community are to thank her for the home she’s created in Oakland. \u003ccite>(Kori Suzuki/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“A lot of elders come in,” she says. “They’ll sit here and they say, ‘I never thought I would sit in a Native American restaurant. And I wanted to come here today.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Others come with an almost spiritual purpose, like the man who traveled all the way from Arizona by himself to spend his birthday at Wahpepah’s Kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Odelia Young and Vina Vo stopped by the restaurant on a Wednesday afternoon lunch break. Young has been a fan of the place since it opened. She’s not Native American and says coming here to eat is an opportunity for authentic connections with Indigenous culture and people.\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"news_11954383","hero":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2023/06/20230626-SAUCY-CHICK-05-KQED-1020x816.jpg","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>“I feel like it’s always like a sharing of culture with us,” Young says. “It isn’t just a place to come and consume — but it’s a place to come and connect.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vo, who is Vietnamese American, agrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The flavors are very different than what I’m used to,” she says. “I think when you’re able to look at different ingredients [and] different flavors, you can kind of get a feel for what was available at that time, in that land … and there are stories behind that.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wahpepah hopes to share her food beyond the Bay Area. She is now working on a cookbook, which, on top of running a restaurant, is tough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s pretty much seven days a week. You definitely got to love what you do … and it’s definitely not about finance,” she says, with a laugh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But she says it’s worth it when she adds warm corn soups and fresh-baked cornbread to her menu in the fall — and feels her grandmother’s presence.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“She might not be here physically, but she’s here,” Wahpepah says, smiling. “She would love it.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/news/11958720/oakland-restaurant-wahpepahs-kitchen-rnative-dishes","authors":["11365"],"programs":["news_72","news_26731"],"categories":["news_31795","news_8"],"tags":["news_24312","news_17886","news_18352","news_27626","news_32866","news_33059","news_21512","news_29002","news_29855","news_18","news_33058","news_33057"],"featImg":"news_11953935","label":"news_26731"},"news_11922085":{"type":"posts","id":"news_11922085","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"news","id":"11922085","score":null,"sort":[1660316412000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"cafeteria-cook-brings-dishes-inspired-by-palauan-childhood-to-lassen-community-college","title":"Cafeteria Cook Brings Gourmet Dishes Inspired by Palauan Childhood to Lassen Community College","publishDate":1660316412,"format":"standard","headTitle":"California Foodways | The California Report Magazine | KQED News","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/the-california-report-magazine/id1314750545?mt=2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Listen to this and more in-depth storytelling by subscribing to The California Report Magazine podcast.\u003c/a> This story is part of \u003ca href=\"http://www.californiafoodways.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">California Foodways, \u003c/a>a series by producer Lisa Morehouse. She's traveling county by county reporting on people and places at the intersection of food, culture, history and economy.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a recent Friday, by 8 a.m., the Lassen Community College cafeteria was already busy. Besides cranking out breakfasts for students, Brennan Temol and his colleague Cathy Ritola, were also cooking for an event they’d be catering on campus later that day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We're making some tri-tip and some baked chicken, mashed potatoes, asparagus,” said Temol.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lassen Community College sits in the high desert town of Susanville, population 16,000. About half of that number comes from people incarcerated at the two state prisons in town. Like a lot of towns of its size, Susanville doesn't boast a ton of restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of the finest cuisine can be found in the college cafeteria’s kitchen. Temol and Ritola were prepping for a catered lunch, making some time-intensive desserts like homemade brownie bites with cream cheese filling, a parfait of toasted angel food cake, whipped cream, and a berry sauce Temol made the night before.[pullquote size=\"medium\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Brennan Temol, cafeteria cook\"]'Where I grew up, it's always fish, fish, fish. Every day, we would have uncles come in with the fresh catch of the day.'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ritola said Temol always adds a little flash to things like desserts. “I mean, he makes them really fancy. And he's the only one here that makes fried ice cream.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Temol is a guy who seemingly never takes his apron off. He spends all week cooking at the cafeteria, and all weekend making dishes with family and friends. In both kitchens, he draws on his culinary school training, and the flavors of his childhood in the Pacific Island nation of Palau.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He went to culinary school and worked in restaurants in Reno. Before going into food, he thought he’d study design, and you can tell. He has a real personal style: a bright Hawaiian shirt under a charcoal gray sweater, earrings in both ears, his hair braided and tied in a knot. In the kitchen, he specializes in beautiful presentations, and experimenting beyond a stereotypical cafeteria menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One other thing that’s Temol’s domain in the cafeteria: seafood. On this day, he prepared an elaborate seafood platter for the lunch special.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We have calamari, some shrimp, cod fish. And I'm going to make a poke, a Hawaiian dish,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11922104\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57613_DSC03201-qut.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11922104\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57613_DSC03201-qut-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of food.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57613_DSC03201-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57613_DSC03201-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57613_DSC03201-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57613_DSC03201-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57613_DSC03201-qut.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Palauan-inspired meal. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Temol learned how to cook seafood growing up in Palau.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Where I grew up, it's always fish, fish, fish,” said Temol. “Every day we would have uncles come in with the fresh catch of the day.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His dad prepared sashimi and taught Temol to sear tuna and make soup. His mom preferred making biscuits and gravy. She helped Temol with the first thing he cooked — cupcakes for his kindergarten graduation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Temol said that, as a teenager, if he was going to the beach with friends and they weren’t eating chicken wings, they’d grab bento boxes instead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Rice and short ribs, or rice and fish and a side of kimchi,” he recalled with a smile.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That mix of culinary traditi\u003c/span>ons is a reflection of Palau, explained Mo\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">tare \u003c/span>“Mo” Ngiratmab, a Palauan community elder, and a student advisor at Lassen Community College.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Moving to Susanville\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Palau is an island group, close to the Philippines and Guam. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We have people from Bangladesh, we have people from the Philippines, we have people from Indonesia, China,” Motare said.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For hundreds of years, Palau was \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://geriatrics.stanford.edu/ethnomed/hawaiian_pacific_islander/fund/historical_background/pi_colonization.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">colonized\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> by Spain, Germany and Japan, eventually becoming a U.S. territory after World War II. It gained \u003ca href=\"https://www.state.gov/u-s-relations-with-palau/#:~:text=Palau%20gained%20its%20independence%20and,conducts%20its%20own%20foreign%20relations.\">independence\u003c/a> nearly 30 years ago, but Palauans \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">can live and work in the U.S., which still maintains a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://thediplomat.com/2022/02/the-us-is-squandering-its-cofa-advantage-in-the-pacific/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">military presence\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> on the island. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the mid-1970s, when Motare was in middle school on the island, the United States began to influence the Palauan food system. He said they dropped USDA food boxes filled with sugary hams to islanders. S\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">tores started carrying Spam, bread, and chocolate. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“People don't snack papaya, don't snack mango anymore,” he recalled. “It's like Tootsie Roll, you know?”\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Around that same time, Motare said, the first Palauans came to Susanville, on the recommendation of a Peace Corps volunteer. A few years later, in 1981, Mo arrived to join a cousin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Imagine this skinny island boy landing in San Francisco, getting on a Greyhound bus,” he said. It took him more than two days to get to Susanville, and he was unprepared for the January weather.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’d never seen snow before! I was wearing sports shoes, Levis and a T-shirt,” Motare recalled. “There was five feet of snow here. And I thought I came to the wrong place.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He was out of his element, failing all of his classes the first semester. But he survived, and then thrived. After graduating, Motare got hired as an academic advisor supporting international students at Lassen Community College.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Motare explained that some Palauan students stayed in Susanville, got jobs in fields like forestry and brought other relatives over from the islands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Temol, the cafeteria cook, came to Susanville more than 10 years ago, to be closer to his wife’s family. Now, the community is big enough that local grocery stores stock island foods. Temol heads to Reno when he needs specialty items, but even in Susanville he can get \u003ca href=\"https://modernfarmer.com/2016/01/roots-tubers-guide/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">cassava root and taro\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> to boil, squid to grill, tuna to sear, and clams to cook with coconut milk.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11922255\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57609_DSC03183-qut-2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11922255\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57609_DSC03183-qut-2-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A man stands over a kitchen counter picking up two plates of food.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57609_DSC03183-qut-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57609_DSC03183-qut-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57609_DSC03183-qut-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57609_DSC03183-qut-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57609_DSC03183-qut-2.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brennan Temol plates dishes professionally, at work and at home. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After long weekdays in the cafeteria, Temol gathers with his family most weekends. Sometimes, they prepare a Palauan-inspired meal, like they did on a recent weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">His kitchen can often feel like organized chaos, with taro boiling on the stove, pork tenderizing in a pot, raw fish ready to be sliced into sashimi, as he peels cassava root —\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">diokang \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">in Palauan — and fries whole, small fish that have been lightly marinated.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ci>“\u003c/i>We like to eat it with the bones, because we like to suck the eyeballs,” Temol explained as \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">he seared tuna medium rare, with \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">furikake\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a Japanese rice seasoning. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Temol puts his dishes in beautiful bowls, or restaurant-quality platters lined with lettuce leaves, garnished and plated professionally.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Even his wife Valyne wiped a platter before taking it to the table.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I learned from him,” she said with a laugh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11922108\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57612_DSC03198-qut.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11922108\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57612_DSC03198-qut-800x533.jpeg\" alt=\"Five people are in a room with one person holding a plate of food and others reaching for utensils on a table.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57612_DSC03198-qut-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57612_DSC03198-qut-1020x680.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57612_DSC03198-qut-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57612_DSC03198-qut-1536x1024.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57612_DSC03198-qut.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brennan Temol and his family dig into the Palauan-inspired meal. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As the family gathered to serve themselves and eat around a glass table, Temol put out hot sauce that came straight from Palau, and also mayonnaise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If we didn't have mayonnaise, nobody would eat. We're going to send somebody to the store to buy mayonnaise (when we run out), that's how crazy mayonnaise is to us,” Temol laughed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brennan’s cousin Alik Frank made the pork dish. When asked about the major ingredient, he smiled and said “love.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He was joking, but that was the feeling at Temol’s house: love, and pride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We (Palauans) are happy to show what we do,” said Temol.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the surface, a tropical island like Palau and a land-locked, high desert town with snowy mountains and a mostly white population like Susanville can seem like totally different worlds; but they aren’t that different in the ways that matter most to Temol.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Everyone knows each other,” he explained. “That made me happy to raise my kids here.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He can walk to the store, to work, or to meet up with friends. He sees colleagues all around town. He cooks and eats with family every weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I feel like this is Palau to me,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Cafeteria cook Brennan Temol prepares cuisine from his childhood in the Pacific Island nation of Palau for students at Lassen Community College.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1660337944,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":44,"wordCount":1408},"headData":{"title":"Cafeteria Cook Brings Gourmet Dishes Inspired by Palauan Childhood to Lassen Community College | KQED","description":"Cafeteria cook Brennan Temol prepares cuisine from his childhood in the Pacific Island nation of Palau for students at Lassen Community College.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","headline":"Cafeteria Cook Brings Gourmet Dishes Inspired by Palauan Childhood to Lassen Community College","datePublished":"2022-08-12T15:00:12.000Z","dateModified":"2022-08-12T20:59:04.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png","isAccessibleForFree":"Y","publisher":{"@type":"NewsMediaOrganization","@id":"https://www.kqed.org/#organization","name":"KQED","url":"https://www.kqed.org","logo":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}}},"disqusIdentifier":"11922085 https://ww2.kqed.org/news/?p=11922085","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/2022/08/12/cafeteria-cook-brings-dishes-inspired-by-palauan-childhood-to-lassen-community-college/","disqusTitle":"Cafeteria Cook Brings Gourmet Dishes Inspired by Palauan Childhood to Lassen Community College","source":"The California Report Magazine","sourceUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/californiareportmagazine","audioUrl":"https://traffic.omny.fm/d/clips/0af137ef-751e-4b19-a055-aaef00d2d578/ffca7e9f-6831-4[…]f-aaef00f5a073/6bd6d5c3-436f-4c7c-b090-aeee01401e27/audio.mp3","excludeFromSiteSearch":"Include","path":"/news/11922085/cafeteria-cook-brings-dishes-inspired-by-palauan-childhood-to-lassen-community-college","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/the-california-report-magazine/id1314750545?mt=2\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Listen to this and more in-depth storytelling by subscribing to The California Report Magazine podcast.\u003c/a> This story is part of \u003ca href=\"http://www.californiafoodways.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">California Foodways, \u003c/a>a series by producer Lisa Morehouse. She's traveling county by county reporting on people and places at the intersection of food, culture, history and economy.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a recent Friday, by 8 a.m., the Lassen Community College cafeteria was already busy. Besides cranking out breakfasts for students, Brennan Temol and his colleague Cathy Ritola, were also cooking for an event they’d be catering on campus later that day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We're making some tri-tip and some baked chicken, mashed potatoes, asparagus,” said Temol.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lassen Community College sits in the high desert town of Susanville, population 16,000. About half of that number comes from people incarcerated at the two state prisons in town. Like a lot of towns of its size, Susanville doesn't boast a ton of restaurants.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of the finest cuisine can be found in the college cafeteria’s kitchen. Temol and Ritola were prepping for a catered lunch, making some time-intensive desserts like homemade brownie bites with cream cheese filling, a parfait of toasted angel food cake, whipped cream, and a berry sauce Temol made the night before.\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"'Where I grew up, it's always fish, fish, fish. Every day, we would have uncles come in with the fresh catch of the day.'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"medium","align":"right","citation":"Brennan Temol, cafeteria cook","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ritola said Temol always adds a little flash to things like desserts. “I mean, he makes them really fancy. And he's the only one here that makes fried ice cream.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Temol is a guy who seemingly never takes his apron off. He spends all week cooking at the cafeteria, and all weekend making dishes with family and friends. In both kitchens, he draws on his culinary school training, and the flavors of his childhood in the Pacific Island nation of Palau.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He went to culinary school and worked in restaurants in Reno. Before going into food, he thought he’d study design, and you can tell. He has a real personal style: a bright Hawaiian shirt under a charcoal gray sweater, earrings in both ears, his hair braided and tied in a knot. In the kitchen, he specializes in beautiful presentations, and experimenting beyond a stereotypical cafeteria menu.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One other thing that’s Temol’s domain in the cafeteria: seafood. On this day, he prepared an elaborate seafood platter for the lunch special.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We have calamari, some shrimp, cod fish. And I'm going to make a poke, a Hawaiian dish,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11922104\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57613_DSC03201-qut.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11922104\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57613_DSC03201-qut-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A plate of food.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57613_DSC03201-qut-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57613_DSC03201-qut-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57613_DSC03201-qut-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57613_DSC03201-qut-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57613_DSC03201-qut.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Palauan-inspired meal. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Temol learned how to cook seafood growing up in Palau.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Where I grew up, it's always fish, fish, fish,” said Temol. “Every day we would have uncles come in with the fresh catch of the day.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His dad prepared sashimi and taught Temol to sear tuna and make soup. His mom preferred making biscuits and gravy. She helped Temol with the first thing he cooked — cupcakes for his kindergarten graduation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Temol said that, as a teenager, if he was going to the beach with friends and they weren’t eating chicken wings, they’d grab bento boxes instead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Rice and short ribs, or rice and fish and a side of kimchi,” he recalled with a smile.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">That mix of culinary traditi\u003c/span>ons is a reflection of Palau, explained Mo\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">tare \u003c/span>“Mo” Ngiratmab, a Palauan community elder, and a student advisor at Lassen Community College.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>Moving to Susanville\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Palau is an island group, close to the Philippines and Guam. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“We have people from Bangladesh, we have people from the Philippines, we have people from Indonesia, China,” Motare said.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For hundreds of years, Palau was \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://geriatrics.stanford.edu/ethnomed/hawaiian_pacific_islander/fund/historical_background/pi_colonization.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">colonized\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> by Spain, Germany and Japan, eventually becoming a U.S. territory after World War II. It gained \u003ca href=\"https://www.state.gov/u-s-relations-with-palau/#:~:text=Palau%20gained%20its%20independence%20and,conducts%20its%20own%20foreign%20relations.\">independence\u003c/a> nearly 30 years ago, but Palauans \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">can live and work in the U.S., which still maintains a \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://thediplomat.com/2022/02/the-us-is-squandering-its-cofa-advantage-in-the-pacific/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">military presence\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> on the island. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In the mid-1970s, when Motare was in middle school on the island, the United States began to influence the Palauan food system. He said they dropped USDA food boxes filled with sugary hams to islanders. S\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">tores started carrying Spam, bread, and chocolate. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“People don't snack papaya, don't snack mango anymore,” he recalled. “It's like Tootsie Roll, you know?”\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Around that same time, Motare said, the first Palauans came to Susanville, on the recommendation of a Peace Corps volunteer. A few years later, in 1981, Mo arrived to join a cousin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Imagine this skinny island boy landing in San Francisco, getting on a Greyhound bus,” he said. It took him more than two days to get to Susanville, and he was unprepared for the January weather.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I’d never seen snow before! I was wearing sports shoes, Levis and a T-shirt,” Motare recalled. “There was five feet of snow here. And I thought I came to the wrong place.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He was out of his element, failing all of his classes the first semester. But he survived, and then thrived. After graduating, Motare got hired as an academic advisor supporting international students at Lassen Community College.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Motare explained that some Palauan students stayed in Susanville, got jobs in fields like forestry and brought other relatives over from the islands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Temol, the cafeteria cook, came to Susanville more than 10 years ago, to be closer to his wife’s family. Now, the community is big enough that local grocery stores stock island foods. Temol heads to Reno when he needs specialty items, but even in Susanville he can get \u003ca href=\"https://modernfarmer.com/2016/01/roots-tubers-guide/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">cassava root and taro\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> to boil, squid to grill, tuna to sear, and clams to cook with coconut milk.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11922255\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57609_DSC03183-qut-2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11922255\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57609_DSC03183-qut-2-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"A man stands over a kitchen counter picking up two plates of food.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57609_DSC03183-qut-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57609_DSC03183-qut-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57609_DSC03183-qut-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57609_DSC03183-qut-2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57609_DSC03183-qut-2.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brennan Temol plates dishes professionally, at work and at home. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After long weekdays in the cafeteria, Temol gathers with his family most weekends. Sometimes, they prepare a Palauan-inspired meal, like they did on a recent weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">His kitchen can often feel like organized chaos, with taro boiling on the stove, pork tenderizing in a pot, raw fish ready to be sliced into sashimi, as he peels cassava root —\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">diokang \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">in Palauan — and fries whole, small fish that have been lightly marinated.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ci>“\u003c/i>We like to eat it with the bones, because we like to suck the eyeballs,” Temol explained as \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">he seared tuna medium rare, with \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">furikake\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, a Japanese rice seasoning. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Temol puts his dishes in beautiful bowls, or restaurant-quality platters lined with lettuce leaves, garnished and plated professionally.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Even his wife Valyne wiped a platter before taking it to the table.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I learned from him,” she said with a laugh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11922108\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57612_DSC03198-qut.jpeg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-11922108\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57612_DSC03198-qut-800x533.jpeg\" alt=\"Five people are in a room with one person holding a plate of food and others reaching for utensils on a table.\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57612_DSC03198-qut-800x533.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57612_DSC03198-qut-1020x680.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57612_DSC03198-qut-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57612_DSC03198-qut-1536x1024.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/08/RS57612_DSC03198-qut.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brennan Temol and his family dig into the Palauan-inspired meal. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As the family gathered to serve themselves and eat around a glass table, Temol put out hot sauce that came straight from Palau, and also mayonnaise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If we didn't have mayonnaise, nobody would eat. We're going to send somebody to the store to buy mayonnaise (when we run out), that's how crazy mayonnaise is to us,” Temol laughed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brennan’s cousin Alik Frank made the pork dish. When asked about the major ingredient, he smiled and said “love.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He was joking, but that was the feeling at Temol’s house: love, and pride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We (Palauans) are happy to show what we do,” said Temol.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the surface, a tropical island like Palau and a land-locked, high desert town with snowy mountains and a mostly white population like Susanville can seem like totally different worlds; but they aren’t that different in the ways that matter most to Temol.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Everyone knows each other,” he explained. “That made me happy to raise my kids here.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He can walk to the store, to work, or to meet up with friends. He sees colleagues all around town. He cooks and eats with family every weekend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I feel like this is Palau to me,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/news/11922085/cafeteria-cook-brings-dishes-inspired-by-palauan-childhood-to-lassen-community-college","authors":["3229"],"programs":["news_26731"],"series":["news_17045"],"categories":["news_8"],"tags":["news_31441","news_17886","news_31440","news_31438","news_31439"],"featImg":"news_11922256","label":"source_news_11922085"},"news_11912501":{"type":"posts","id":"news_11912501","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"news","id":"11912501","score":null,"sort":[1651262423000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-a-tiny-hmong-market-in-yuba-county-became-everybodys-store","title":"How a Tiny Hmong Market in Yuba County Became 'Everybody's Store'","publishDate":1651262423,"format":"standard","headTitle":"The California Report Magazine | KQED News","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>On the edge of the Yuba County town of Marysville, there’s an Asian market that’s bursting with so many ingredients, the inventory could rival that of similar stores in big cities. Four shelves of coconut milk, four more shelves of hot sauces, a whole corner dedicated to rice, an entire aisle of noodles, green papayas from Mexico, and specialty vegetables and herbs from local Hmong farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s called Phooj Ywg Lee’s Market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“In my language it’s called Friendly’s Market,” says Kou Lee with a laugh. “I’m not sure we’re friendly, but we try.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you wind your way through the candy aisle, next to the water-filling station, you’ll find a small, bustling kitchen in the back corner, Lee’s domain. That’s where she prepares an extensive menu of made-to-order dishes and popular to-go plates — deep-fried chicken, spicy Lao sausage, pork ribs paired with sticky rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This is a steamed fish, Lao style,” she says, pointing to another dish stuffed with spicy pepper, cilantro, dill, lime leaves, ginger and garlic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size=\"medium\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Kou Lee, Phooj Ywg Lee's Market\"]'At first it was more like the Hmong population, the Cambodian population — but right now it's become everybody’s store.'[/pullquote]On a recent Thursday, the market’s doorbell and phone seem to be going off constantly. There is a steady stream of in-person and phone customers. Lee says she and her helper, Nana, prepped 60 or 70 takeout items that morning, and by noon, they’d already sold out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a huge pot, Lee makes khaub poob, a chicken curry soup with noodles. She prepped the curry paste the previous night, after customers were gone. “It took almost three hours just to do the paste,” she says. She says slow cooking is what results in all the “red, yummy stuff.” That batch of curry will last her a couple of days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We have a combination of Thai, Lao and Hmong foods,” says Lee, whose family is from Laos. “We share Laos food. And Laos and Thailand share a border. Lao and Thai are similar, they are almost like family.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of what people in the U.S. think of as Thai food originated in Laos, or is cooked by Lao chefs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Because, I guess, Thai are more — I’m not sure ‘popular’ is the word — they are more well-known [than Lao or Hmong],” Lee says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She explains that traditional Hmong food is more home cooking — dishes like pork ribs with mustard greens, and chicken with herbs like mugwort and Okinawa spinach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee’s Market is a family affair. Today, her husband works the front counter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It just keeps us both on our feet all day long,” Lee says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few of her 10 grandchildren poke their heads in to say hi, or deliver a phone order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her grandson cries when he sees a reporter holding a microphone in the kitchen. Lee immediately reaches a paddle into one of the 20-cup rice cookers she uses to keep her steamed sticky rice warm. She squeezes a bit into her palm and hands it to him, and he's soothed.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A childhood in the shadow of war\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Lee says she’s been eating sticky rice all her life. She remembers during her childhood not having anything to accompany it. “Just hot sauce and sticky rice,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s because Lee grew up in the middle of a civil war. She was born in Laos in 1967, she says, “in a difficult time. We had to escape from place to place.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The people of Laos, including Hmong, were deeply divided between communist leaders and those loyal to the royal family. North and South Vietnamese military forces participated in the fighting, too, and Laos became a Cold War battleground between the United States and the Soviet Union. The CIA recruited and trained 30,000 Laotians, mostly Hmong, to fight communists. And in covert missions, the U.S. dropped 2 million tons of cluster bombs on parts of Laos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID=news_11618008 hero='https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2017/10/IMG_4285-1038x576.jpg']Lee’s family moved a lot. She says her dad was in the military, working for the CIA, but she’s hesitant to talk too much about the past.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I don’t want to go into that story because I might say something wrong. I was just a little girl! A lot of people out there know a lot more,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She does remember there wasn’t much food — just that sticky rice and hot sauce, “mustard greens soup, regular rice.” She has a sweet tooth, and recalls that the only sweets available were things like sugar cane, papaya and sweet potato.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the communists won the war in 1975, Lee’s family, like a full quarter of the country, became refugees.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A new life and business in California\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Lee says she was 8 or 9 years old when her family went to a refugee camp in Thailand, then to Michigan. In the '80s, she got married, came to California, and started her own family. Her husband’s brothers own stores in Fresno and Sacramento, and so, the couple decided to open Lee’s Market in Marysville.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s a Hmong population here, and not too many markets,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11912523\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-11912523\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55582_IMG_2012-qut-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55582_IMG_2012-qut-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55582_IMG_2012-qut-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55582_IMG_2012-qut-1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55582_IMG_2012-qut-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55582_IMG_2012-qut-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The exterior of Phooj Ywg Lee's Market in Marysville. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After the war, refugee resettlement policy was to disperse Hmong people all over the U.S., sometimes in small towns, away from others in their community. But many families later moved closer to each other, to places like Detroit, Merced and Stockton, for support. Hmong neighborhoods grew in agricultural places like the Sacramento Valley, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When they first opened, Lee had no intention of serving made-to-order food. She just wanted a little kitchen to prepare some takeout food, like sausage and sticky rice. But word of mouth spread, and Lee expanded her menu and put in some seating for customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“At first it was more like the Hmong population, the Cambodian population, but right now it’s become everybody’s store,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID=news_11439095 hero='https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2017/05/FresnoBBoys-1-1180x760.jpg']Lee says she honors each customer’s made-to-order requests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some people, they will tell me exactly how they want it. This is not like you make a hamburger, [and] everything is just the same,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When longtime customers like Alexis Heflin and her sister Hailey order the papaya salad, Lee makes much of the dish on the spot, calibrating the spiciness level to suit their taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She pounds ingredients in a mortar and pestle, beginning with tomatoes and a sauce made from crab, shrimp paste and anchovy. She adds salt, sugar, garlic, pepper, peanuts and green papaya, which she shredded the night before.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’ve been coming here since we were, like, 5,” says Alexis. “And I’m 16 and she’s 20 now.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alexis has had papaya salad at other places, but she says it doesn’t compare to Lee’s, the one she grew up on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“She puts a special touch in it,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11912526\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-11912526\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55583_IMG_8112-qut-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55583_IMG_8112-qut-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55583_IMG_8112-qut-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55583_IMG_8112-qut-1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55583_IMG_8112-qut-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55583_IMG_8112-qut-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kou Lee prepares pad thai and khaub poob, a chicken curry with noodles. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bryce Moody calls his regular order the trifecta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You gotta get the beef laab, papaya salad and sticky rice,” he says. “That’s the holy trinity right there.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Moody has been a loyal customer of Lee’s for more than 15 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’ve watched each other’s kids grow up,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says when his sons were really small, they weren’t interested in trying these dishes, so he’d pick up fast food for them before stopping at Lee’s Market, saying, “I’d eat the food here and they’d eat their Happy Meal.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Bryce says now they’re hooked on Lee’s cooking, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A career she wouldn't have expected\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>When Lee was a child, she never would have believed that food would be her livelihood. She didn’t really learn to cook until she got married, and got a lot of help from her sister-in-law. And she kept learning, visiting Thailand, making curries with a Thai employee. Lee says that, growing up, she learned some basics from her mom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If you’re born to be a girl, you need to learn how to cook, no matter what,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But she says that, when she was young, she didn’t like it. She preferred to play with her brother.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I wasn’t a good girl like how my mom wanted,” she says. She says she was a naughty girl, with an independent streak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And with that, Lee is done talking about herself. She brings out an order of khaub poob — the chicken noodle curry — and turns back to the stove, to take care of all the orders coming in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The inventory of Phooj Ywg Lee's Market in Marysville is bursting with so many ingredients, it rivals that of similar stores in big cities — and the made-to-order food has kept regulars coming back for decades.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1651264270,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":47,"wordCount":1629},"headData":{"title":"How a Tiny Hmong Market in Yuba County Became 'Everybody's Store' | KQED","description":"The inventory of Phooj Ywg Lee's Market in Marysville is bursting with so many ingredients, it rivals that of similar stores in big cities — and the made-to-order food has kept regulars coming back for decades.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","headline":"How a Tiny Hmong Market in Yuba County Became 'Everybody's Store'","datePublished":"2022-04-29T20:00:23.000Z","dateModified":"2022-04-29T20:31:10.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png","isAccessibleForFree":"Y","publisher":{"@type":"NewsMediaOrganization","@id":"https://www.kqed.org/#organization","name":"KQED","url":"https://www.kqed.org","logo":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}}},"disqusIdentifier":"11912501 https://ww2.kqed.org/news/?p=11912501","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/2022/04/29/how-a-tiny-hmong-market-in-yuba-county-became-everybodys-store/","disqusTitle":"How a Tiny Hmong Market in Yuba County Became 'Everybody's Store'","source":"The California Report Magazine","sourceUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/californiareportmagazine","audioUrl":"https://traffic.omny.fm/d/clips/0af137ef-751e-4b19-a055-aaef00d2d578/ffca7e9f-6831-41c5-bcaf-aaef00f5a073/7095a3f3-2f8f-4adb-8198-ae8600077511/audio.mp3","excludeFromSiteSearch":"Include","path":"/news/11912501/how-a-tiny-hmong-market-in-yuba-county-became-everybodys-store","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>On the edge of the Yuba County town of Marysville, there’s an Asian market that’s bursting with so many ingredients, the inventory could rival that of similar stores in big cities. Four shelves of coconut milk, four more shelves of hot sauces, a whole corner dedicated to rice, an entire aisle of noodles, green papayas from Mexico, and specialty vegetables and herbs from local Hmong farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s called Phooj Ywg Lee’s Market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“In my language it’s called Friendly’s Market,” says Kou Lee with a laugh. “I’m not sure we’re friendly, but we try.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you wind your way through the candy aisle, next to the water-filling station, you’ll find a small, bustling kitchen in the back corner, Lee’s domain. That’s where she prepares an extensive menu of made-to-order dishes and popular to-go plates — deep-fried chicken, spicy Lao sausage, pork ribs paired with sticky rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This is a steamed fish, Lao style,” she says, pointing to another dish stuffed with spicy pepper, cilantro, dill, lime leaves, ginger and garlic.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"'At first it was more like the Hmong population, the Cambodian population — but right now it's become everybody’s store.'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"medium","align":"right","citation":"Kou Lee, Phooj Ywg Lee's Market","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>On a recent Thursday, the market’s doorbell and phone seem to be going off constantly. There is a steady stream of in-person and phone customers. Lee says she and her helper, Nana, prepped 60 or 70 takeout items that morning, and by noon, they’d already sold out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a huge pot, Lee makes khaub poob, a chicken curry soup with noodles. She prepped the curry paste the previous night, after customers were gone. “It took almost three hours just to do the paste,” she says. She says slow cooking is what results in all the “red, yummy stuff.” That batch of curry will last her a couple of days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We have a combination of Thai, Lao and Hmong foods,” says Lee, whose family is from Laos. “We share Laos food. And Laos and Thailand share a border. Lao and Thai are similar, they are almost like family.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A lot of what people in the U.S. think of as Thai food originated in Laos, or is cooked by Lao chefs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Because, I guess, Thai are more — I’m not sure ‘popular’ is the word — they are more well-known [than Lao or Hmong],” Lee says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She explains that traditional Hmong food is more home cooking — dishes like pork ribs with mustard greens, and chicken with herbs like mugwort and Okinawa spinach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lee’s Market is a family affair. Today, her husband works the front counter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It just keeps us both on our feet all day long,” Lee says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few of her 10 grandchildren poke their heads in to say hi, or deliver a phone order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Her grandson cries when he sees a reporter holding a microphone in the kitchen. Lee immediately reaches a paddle into one of the 20-cup rice cookers she uses to keep her steamed sticky rice warm. She squeezes a bit into her palm and hands it to him, and he's soothed.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A childhood in the shadow of war\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Lee says she’s been eating sticky rice all her life. She remembers during her childhood not having anything to accompany it. “Just hot sauce and sticky rice,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That’s because Lee grew up in the middle of a civil war. She was born in Laos in 1967, she says, “in a difficult time. We had to escape from place to place.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The people of Laos, including Hmong, were deeply divided between communist leaders and those loyal to the royal family. North and South Vietnamese military forces participated in the fighting, too, and Laos became a Cold War battleground between the United States and the Soviet Union. The CIA recruited and trained 30,000 Laotians, mostly Hmong, to fight communists. And in covert missions, the U.S. dropped 2 million tons of cluster bombs on parts of Laos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"news_11618008","hero":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2017/10/IMG_4285-1038x576.jpg","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Lee’s family moved a lot. She says her dad was in the military, working for the CIA, but she’s hesitant to talk too much about the past.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I don’t want to go into that story because I might say something wrong. I was just a little girl! A lot of people out there know a lot more,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She does remember there wasn’t much food — just that sticky rice and hot sauce, “mustard greens soup, regular rice.” She has a sweet tooth, and recalls that the only sweets available were things like sugar cane, papaya and sweet potato.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the communists won the war in 1975, Lee’s family, like a full quarter of the country, became refugees.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A new life and business in California\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Lee says she was 8 or 9 years old when her family went to a refugee camp in Thailand, then to Michigan. In the '80s, she got married, came to California, and started her own family. Her husband’s brothers own stores in Fresno and Sacramento, and so, the couple decided to open Lee’s Market in Marysville.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s a Hmong population here, and not too many markets,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11912523\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-11912523\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55582_IMG_2012-qut-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55582_IMG_2012-qut-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55582_IMG_2012-qut-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55582_IMG_2012-qut-1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55582_IMG_2012-qut-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55582_IMG_2012-qut-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The exterior of Phooj Ywg Lee's Market in Marysville. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After the war, refugee resettlement policy was to disperse Hmong people all over the U.S., sometimes in small towns, away from others in their community. But many families later moved closer to each other, to places like Detroit, Merced and Stockton, for support. Hmong neighborhoods grew in agricultural places like the Sacramento Valley, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When they first opened, Lee had no intention of serving made-to-order food. She just wanted a little kitchen to prepare some takeout food, like sausage and sticky rice. But word of mouth spread, and Lee expanded her menu and put in some seating for customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“At first it was more like the Hmong population, the Cambodian population, but right now it’s become everybody’s store,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"news_11439095","hero":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2017/05/FresnoBBoys-1-1180x760.jpg","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>Lee says she honors each customer’s made-to-order requests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Some people, they will tell me exactly how they want it. This is not like you make a hamburger, [and] everything is just the same,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When longtime customers like Alexis Heflin and her sister Hailey order the papaya salad, Lee makes much of the dish on the spot, calibrating the spiciness level to suit their taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She pounds ingredients in a mortar and pestle, beginning with tomatoes and a sauce made from crab, shrimp paste and anchovy. She adds salt, sugar, garlic, pepper, peanuts and green papaya, which she shredded the night before.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’ve been coming here since we were, like, 5,” says Alexis. “And I’m 16 and she’s 20 now.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alexis has had papaya salad at other places, but she says it doesn’t compare to Lee’s, the one she grew up on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“She puts a special touch in it,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11912526\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-11912526\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55583_IMG_8112-qut-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55583_IMG_8112-qut-1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55583_IMG_8112-qut-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55583_IMG_8112-qut-1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55583_IMG_8112-qut-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2022/04/RS55583_IMG_8112-qut-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kou Lee prepares pad thai and khaub poob, a chicken curry with noodles. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Bryce Moody calls his regular order the trifecta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You gotta get the beef laab, papaya salad and sticky rice,” he says. “That’s the holy trinity right there.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Moody has been a loyal customer of Lee’s for more than 15 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’ve watched each other’s kids grow up,” he said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says when his sons were really small, they weren’t interested in trying these dishes, so he’d pick up fast food for them before stopping at Lee’s Market, saying, “I’d eat the food here and they’d eat their Happy Meal.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Bryce says now they’re hooked on Lee’s cooking, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>A career she wouldn't have expected\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>When Lee was a child, she never would have believed that food would be her livelihood. She didn’t really learn to cook until she got married, and got a lot of help from her sister-in-law. And she kept learning, visiting Thailand, making curries with a Thai employee. Lee says that, growing up, she learned some basics from her mom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If you’re born to be a girl, you need to learn how to cook, no matter what,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But she says that, when she was young, she didn’t like it. She preferred to play with her brother.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I wasn’t a good girl like how my mom wanted,” she says. She says she was a naughty girl, with an independent streak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And with that, Lee is done talking about herself. She brings out an order of khaub poob — the chicken noodle curry — and turns back to the stove, to take care of all the orders coming in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/news/11912501/how-a-tiny-hmong-market-in-yuba-county-became-everybodys-store","authors":["3229"],"programs":["news_26731"],"categories":["news_24114","news_8"],"tags":["news_17886","news_333","news_20632","news_31014","news_21355"],"featImg":"news_11912514","label":"source_news_11912501"},"news_11814941":{"type":"posts","id":"news_11814941","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"news","id":"11814941","score":null,"sort":[1588374415000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"update-how-the-coronavirus-impacts-a-food-bank-in-remote-northern-california","title":"How the Coronavirus Impacts a Food Bank in Remote Northern California","publishDate":1588374415,"format":"audio","headTitle":"California Foodways | The California Report Magazine | KQED News","labelTerm":{"term":26731,"site":"news"},"content":"\u003cp>Trinity County is a mountainous, remote part of Northern California, and when I visited in 2017 for my \u003ca href=\"https://californiafoodways.com/\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">California Foodways\u003c/a> project, I learned that it’s also one of the state’s most food insecure places. Many people don’t know where their next meal is coming from, even in the best of times. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the spring of 2020, with the state under prolonged shelter-at-home orders because of the coronavirus pandemic, is clearly not the best of times. What's happening now in Trinity County, where so many people are in need? I decided to check in with Jeffry England, whom I got to know during my trip three years ago. He runs the county's \u003ca href=\"http://trinitycountyfoodbank.org/\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">food bank\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside postID=\"news_11808701,news_11814956\" label=\"The Pandemic: Food Insecurity\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The morning we first met, it was just after sunrise, and Jeffry and three volunteers were almost done packing a couple of trucks. The vehicles were \"loaded to the gills,\" as Jeffry put it, with produce, prepared foods and special boxes for seniors. He cobbles the food together from a web of local, state and federal programs and delivers it once a month to distribution centers scattered throughout the county. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I rode with him in the cab of a 20-year-old truck with a rattling refrigeration unit. He was heading out to the southern part of the county on the longest of his monthly routes: 230 miles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When I make my trip, because of all the twisty, turny roads, I kinda have to take it a little bit easy,” he told me. Hitting one of the sharp bends too fast could upend the pallets of food he’d assembled for the 10 1/2-hour drive. Out the windshield I saw vehicles that had fallen off the side of the road.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I called Jeffry last week, he’d recently made this same run. But this time, he said, he delivered twice as much food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Normally we take two trucks,” he said. “This time we had to use all four of our box trucks and actually got five volunteers to load pallets on the back of their pickup trucks. So we had a convoy of nine trucks going to Hayfork and then beyond.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Solid Rock Church in the former logging town of Hayfork is a monthly distribution spot. Because of COVID-19, they’ve now made it a drive-through food bank, borrowing orange cones from Caltrans to create lanes. People pop their trunks or lower their tailgates, and volunteers load them up with food -- bags of non-perishables, frozen foods, produce. I remember coming to this church three years ago, and seeing about 50 people stopping by for food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The last time I was there, there were 113 households, so it was more than double,” Jeffry said. Much more. He says numbers are up all over the county.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> “Fifty-four percent from March to April. And I anticipate even more in June,” he said. And that’s not counting the extra emergency bags he and his team have been preparing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So far, there have been zero cases of COVID-19 in Trinity County, which has limited medical facilities and a large number of seniors and other vulnerable groups. Despite the county's reliance on visitors who come to stay in hotels and explore the area’s lakes and mountains, officials have urged even those who own second homes there to stay away until the crisis is past.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jeffry was already overworked before the coronavirus, but getting ready for distribution this time, he says, he worked from 14 to 18 hours a day. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The one day I took the day off, I had 70 phone calls before noon. I talked to the governor’s office in my pajamas,” he says with a tired laugh. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size=\"medium\" align=\"right\" citation=\"Jeffry England\"]'One thing we're having a real problem with is bags to pack because they have to be sterile. The grocery stores are out of bags. And we just barely made it through this month.'[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he says the community has stepped up. For instance, a local foundation called to ask what the food bank needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And I said, ‘I need a 40-foot cargo container and 10 feet tall, 10 feet wide, that's insulated.’ And it was here in three days,” he said. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scores of volunteers have shown up to help, as many as 90 in a week. Jeffrey says the bank has enough food to hand out, but has encountered a problem I never considered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“One thing we're having a real problem with is bags to pack because they have to be sterile,\" he said. \"The grocery stores are out of bags. And we just barely made it through this month.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trinity County has two main towns — Weaverville, with about 3,500 people, and Hayfork, with about 2,500. Both have grocery stores and a handful of restaurants are open for takeout or delivery. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But I know from my 2017 visit just how isolated most of this county is. Back then, I rode along as Jeffry maneuvered around potholes to get to the most remote drop-off point, a tiny town called Zenia, on the border of Humboldt County. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He told me about a run a few winters ago, when he defied Caltrans workers and drove a closed, snow-covered road to deliver food to people who’d been stuck there for months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I said, ‘I have to go.’ I slipped, lost traction, gained traction. I just knew they needed the food so I decided to take the chance and I made it,” he said. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lauren Turner, who came to the food drop off at the volunteer fire department in Zenia, said she was grateful for efforts like that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> “It’s not easy up here,” she said. “Usually it’s 100 miles in any direction from here to a large town where you can buy groceries” — more than a two-hour drive, one way, to Eureka or Redding. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jeffry said that for him, the work is really personal. Many years ago, he struggled with addiction and unemployment. “It just felt so good to be able to go to a place when you’re hungry,” he said. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He remembers his first meal in a soup kitchen. “It was in a church. It was spaghetti, garlic bread and a salad. and I’m so happy to be able to turn the table and be able to help people that might have been in my shoes before.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says that right now, Trinity County is relying on him and his team at the food bank more than ever.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Many Trinity County residents don't know where their next meal is coming from in the best of times. But as the pandemic continues, the local food bank is racing to meet a huge increase in need.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1588378016,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":30,"wordCount":1162},"headData":{"title":"How the Coronavirus Impacts a Food Bank in Remote Northern California | KQED","description":"Many Trinity County residents don't know where their next meal is coming from in the best of times. But as the pandemic continues, the local food bank is racing to meet a huge increase in need.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","headline":"How the Coronavirus Impacts a Food Bank in Remote Northern California","datePublished":"2020-05-01T23:06:55.000Z","dateModified":"2020-05-02T00:06:56.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png","isAccessibleForFree":"Y","publisher":{"@type":"NewsMediaOrganization","@id":"https://www.kqed.org/#organization","name":"KQED","url":"https://www.kqed.org","logo":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}}},"disqusIdentifier":"11814941 https://ww2.kqed.org/news/?p=11814941","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/2020/05/01/update-how-the-coronavirus-impacts-a-food-bank-in-remote-northern-california/","disqusTitle":"How the Coronavirus Impacts a Food Bank in Remote Northern California","audioUrl":"https://traffic.omny.fm/d/clips/0af137ef-751e-4b19-a055-aaef00d2d578/ffca7e9f-6831-41c5-bcaf-aaef00f5a073/605ed1a5-97ca-44dc-88fa-abae0186904a/audio.mp3","path":"/news/11814941/update-how-the-coronavirus-impacts-a-food-bank-in-remote-northern-california","audioDuration":379000,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Trinity County is a mountainous, remote part of Northern California, and when I visited in 2017 for my \u003ca href=\"https://californiafoodways.com/\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">California Foodways\u003c/a> project, I learned that it’s also one of the state’s most food insecure places. Many people don’t know where their next meal is coming from, even in the best of times. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the spring of 2020, with the state under prolonged shelter-at-home orders because of the coronavirus pandemic, is clearly not the best of times. What's happening now in Trinity County, where so many people are in need? I decided to check in with Jeffry England, whom I got to know during my trip three years ago. He runs the county's \u003ca href=\"http://trinitycountyfoodbank.org/\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">food bank\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"postid":"news_11808701,news_11814956","label":"The Pandemic: Food Insecurity "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The morning we first met, it was just after sunrise, and Jeffry and three volunteers were almost done packing a couple of trucks. The vehicles were \"loaded to the gills,\" as Jeffry put it, with produce, prepared foods and special boxes for seniors. He cobbles the food together from a web of local, state and federal programs and delivers it once a month to distribution centers scattered throughout the county. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I rode with him in the cab of a 20-year-old truck with a rattling refrigeration unit. He was heading out to the southern part of the county on the longest of his monthly routes: 230 miles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When I make my trip, because of all the twisty, turny roads, I kinda have to take it a little bit easy,” he told me. Hitting one of the sharp bends too fast could upend the pallets of food he’d assembled for the 10 1/2-hour drive. Out the windshield I saw vehicles that had fallen off the side of the road.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I called Jeffry last week, he’d recently made this same run. But this time, he said, he delivered twice as much food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Normally we take two trucks,” he said. “This time we had to use all four of our box trucks and actually got five volunteers to load pallets on the back of their pickup trucks. So we had a convoy of nine trucks going to Hayfork and then beyond.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Solid Rock Church in the former logging town of Hayfork is a monthly distribution spot. Because of COVID-19, they’ve now made it a drive-through food bank, borrowing orange cones from Caltrans to create lanes. People pop their trunks or lower their tailgates, and volunteers load them up with food -- bags of non-perishables, frozen foods, produce. I remember coming to this church three years ago, and seeing about 50 people stopping by for food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The last time I was there, there were 113 households, so it was more than double,” Jeffry said. Much more. He says numbers are up all over the county.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> “Fifty-four percent from March to April. And I anticipate even more in June,” he said. And that’s not counting the extra emergency bags he and his team have been preparing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So far, there have been zero cases of COVID-19 in Trinity County, which has limited medical facilities and a large number of seniors and other vulnerable groups. Despite the county's reliance on visitors who come to stay in hotels and explore the area’s lakes and mountains, officials have urged even those who own second homes there to stay away until the crisis is past.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jeffry was already overworked before the coronavirus, but getting ready for distribution this time, he says, he worked from 14 to 18 hours a day. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“The one day I took the day off, I had 70 phone calls before noon. I talked to the governor’s office in my pajamas,” he says with a tired laugh. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"'One thing we're having a real problem with is bags to pack because they have to be sterile. The grocery stores are out of bags. And we just barely made it through this month.'","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"medium","align":"right","citation":"Jeffry England","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But he says the community has stepped up. For instance, a local foundation called to ask what the food bank needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"And I said, ‘I need a 40-foot cargo container and 10 feet tall, 10 feet wide, that's insulated.’ And it was here in three days,” he said. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scores of volunteers have shown up to help, as many as 90 in a week. Jeffrey says the bank has enough food to hand out, but has encountered a problem I never considered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“One thing we're having a real problem with is bags to pack because they have to be sterile,\" he said. \"The grocery stores are out of bags. And we just barely made it through this month.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trinity County has two main towns — Weaverville, with about 3,500 people, and Hayfork, with about 2,500. Both have grocery stores and a handful of restaurants are open for takeout or delivery. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But I know from my 2017 visit just how isolated most of this county is. Back then, I rode along as Jeffry maneuvered around potholes to get to the most remote drop-off point, a tiny town called Zenia, on the border of Humboldt County. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He told me about a run a few winters ago, when he defied Caltrans workers and drove a closed, snow-covered road to deliver food to people who’d been stuck there for months.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I said, ‘I have to go.’ I slipped, lost traction, gained traction. I just knew they needed the food so I decided to take the chance and I made it,” he said. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lauren Turner, who came to the food drop off at the volunteer fire department in Zenia, said she was grateful for efforts like that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> “It’s not easy up here,” she said. “Usually it’s 100 miles in any direction from here to a large town where you can buy groceries” — more than a two-hour drive, one way, to Eureka or Redding. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jeffry said that for him, the work is really personal. Many years ago, he struggled with addiction and unemployment. “It just felt so good to be able to go to a place when you’re hungry,” he said. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He remembers his first meal in a soup kitchen. “It was in a church. It was spaghetti, garlic bread and a salad. and I’m so happy to be able to turn the table and be able to help people that might have been in my shoes before.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He says that right now, Trinity County is relying on him and his team at the food bank more than ever.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/news/11814941/update-how-the-coronavirus-impacts-a-food-bank-in-remote-northern-california","authors":["3229"],"programs":["news_26731"],"series":["news_17045"],"categories":["news_1758","news_24114","news_457","news_8"],"tags":["news_17886","news_20337","news_21602","news_21601"],"featImg":"news_11815641","label":"news_26731"},"news_11719669":{"type":"posts","id":"news_11719669","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"news","id":"11719669","score":null,"sort":[1547982045000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"beef-is-much-more-than-whats-for-dinner-at-this-siskiyou-county-ranch","title":"Beef Is Much More Than ‘What’s for Dinner’ at This Siskiyou County Ranch","publishDate":1547982045,"format":"audio","headTitle":"The California Report | KQED News","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>WARNING: This episode contains scenes in a slaughterhouse and a description of a cow being broken down.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Think a cow is only good for mooing and eating? Think again. Cow parts are hot commodities in the biomedical research industry. Hides go toward cell research, and bones are made into screws for knee surgery and ground into dental fillings. Prather Ranch has sold everything from pituitary glands to eyeballs to uteri to pericardium.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lisa Morehouse hosts the \u003ca href=\"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/california-foodways/id1390273358?mt=2\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">\"California Foodways\" podcast\u003c/a>, all about food and agriculture in the Golden State. Read Lisa's story on Prather Ranch \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11718100/at-prather-ranch-cows-are-raised-for-fine-steaks-and-biomedical-research\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">here\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This story was produced in collaboration with the Food & Environment Reporting Network, a nonprofit, investigative news organization. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Q'ed Up is hosted and produced by Ryan Levi. This episode was edited by Queena Kim. Follow Ryan on Twitter at @ryan_levi. Send us a note at qedup@kqed.org. Find more Q'ed Up at kqed.org/qedup.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"'If we’re gonna take the animal’s life, I believe we have the moral obligation to utilize the animal as much as possible. First, it’s good business; but it’s good morals.'","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1547955905,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":7,"wordCount":156},"headData":{"title":"Beef Is Much More Than ‘What’s for Dinner’ at This Siskiyou County Ranch | KQED","description":"'If we’re gonna take the animal’s life, I believe we have the moral obligation to utilize the animal as much as possible. First, it’s good business; but it’s good morals.'","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","headline":"Beef Is Much More Than ‘What’s for Dinner’ at This Siskiyou County Ranch","datePublished":"2019-01-20T11:00:45.000Z","dateModified":"2019-01-20T03:45:05.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png","isAccessibleForFree":"Y","publisher":{"@type":"NewsMediaOrganization","@id":"https://www.kqed.org/#organization","name":"KQED","url":"https://www.kqed.org","logo":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}}},"disqusIdentifier":"11719669 https://ww2.kqed.org/news/?p=11719669","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/2019/01/20/beef-is-much-more-than-whats-for-dinner-at-this-siskiyou-county-ranch/","disqusTitle":"Beef Is Much More Than ‘What’s for Dinner’ at This Siskiyou County Ranch","source":"Q'ed Up","sourceUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/qed-up/2019/01/QEDUP190120FINAL.mp3","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/qed-up/2019/01/QEDUP190120FINAL.mp3","audioTrackLength":489,"path":"/news/11719669/beef-is-much-more-than-whats-for-dinner-at-this-siskiyou-county-ranch","audioDuration":496000,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>WARNING: This episode contains scenes in a slaughterhouse and a description of a cow being broken down.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Think a cow is only good for mooing and eating? Think again. Cow parts are hot commodities in the biomedical research industry. Hides go toward cell research, and bones are made into screws for knee surgery and ground into dental fillings. Prather Ranch has sold everything from pituitary glands to eyeballs to uteri to pericardium.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lisa Morehouse hosts the \u003ca href=\"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/california-foodways/id1390273358?mt=2\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">\"California Foodways\" podcast\u003c/a>, all about food and agriculture in the Golden State. Read Lisa's story on Prather Ranch \u003ca href=\"https://www.kqed.org/news/11718100/at-prather-ranch-cows-are-raised-for-fine-steaks-and-biomedical-research\" rel=\"noopener\" target=\"_blank\">here\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This story was produced in collaboration with the Food & Environment Reporting Network, a nonprofit, investigative news organization. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Q'ed Up is hosted and produced by Ryan Levi. This episode was edited by Queena Kim. Follow Ryan on Twitter at @ryan_levi. Send us a note at qedup@kqed.org. Find more Q'ed Up at kqed.org/qedup.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/news/11719669/beef-is-much-more-than-whats-for-dinner-at-this-siskiyou-county-ranch","authors":["11260"],"programs":["news_20407","news_72"],"categories":["news_24114","news_8"],"tags":["news_17886","news_333","news_20564"],"featImg":"news_11718934","label":"source_news_11719669"},"news_11672776":{"type":"posts","id":"news_11672776","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"news","id":"11672776","score":null,"sort":[1529105822000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"providing-a-taste-of-oaxaca-in-the-central-valley","title":"Providing a Taste of Oaxaca in the Central Valley","publishDate":1529105822,"format":"audio","headTitle":"California Foodways | The California Report | KQED News","labelTerm":{"term":72,"site":"news"},"content":"\u003cp>In the town of Madera, California, in the heart of the state’s agricultural Central Valley, teenager Yazid Alamari shows off the merchandise in his family’s business, Gateway Market. “We have some gloves over here, a huge variety. A lot of bandanas.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He points out hats, water coolers, buckets and bags made specifically to carry just-picked mandarins, cherries and blueberries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Right there we have shears to cut vines, for pruning,” he says. “The Felco #2 is one of our best sellers. Those are used for onions.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They’re all supplies needed by local farmworkers, this market’s core customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Wednesday afternoon I spend at the market, I see close to 100 men coming through after working in the fields. Farm labor contractors hand out workers’ checks, and Alamari — who speaks Arabic and English with his cousins and brother — switches to Spanish to cash the checks. But Alamari says customers come for more than checks and supplies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A lot of people who come in here are from Oaxaca, and they get their food right there,” he says, pointing to the tiny eatery tucked into a corner of the market. The restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://colectivomadera.com/\">Colectivo Sabor a Mi Tierra\u003c/a>, is co-owned by Sylvia Rojas and Rosa Hernandez, two women who have forged an alternative path to farm work while offering the many indigenous Mexicans in this part of the Central Valley a taste of home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take truck driver Carlos Santiago Gomez, who is taking his time with a traditional tamal filled with mole, wrapped in a banana leaf. He and a friend drove all the way from the town of Selma, 45 minutes away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s different in Selma,” he says. “There isn’t a lot of food like this,” traditional Oaxacan dishes with indigenous roots: tamales, picaditas, pozole, mole.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11674256\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-11674256\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rosa Hernandez forms \"picaditas\" while they’re hot, right off the stove. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Rojas and Hernandez started working hours ago, Rojas forming some of the 70 tortillas she’ll make by hand today, Hernandez grabbing thick discs of masa right off the stove to make picaditas, shaking her hands to relieve the heat. She pinches the hot dough to shape furrows or spirals, a form she says, “goes on forever and doesn’t have an end,” then spoons sauce and cheese on top. She says, even if it’s covered, she wants her food to be beautiful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hernandez grew up eating picaditas in the morning with coffee and the sweet corn drink atole in her indigenous Mixtec community in the mountains of Oaxaca in southern Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A Community Like Home\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hernandez learned to cook Mixtec staples from her mother, grandmother and her community. On the days when there were large parties, she said, “we all took the day off to go help, from making tortillas to toasting chiles, cooking the beans. And the men would take care of going out into the country and bringing back the firewood” to fuel the ovens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Migration from indigenous Mexican communities to the U.S. started earlier, but rose significantly in the 1980s, says Gaspar Rivera-Salgado of the\u003ca href=\"https://www.labor.ucla.edu/\"> UCLA Labor Center.\u003c/a> “That coincided with a Mexican economic crisis that affected the countryside the most.” Part of the problem? Corn exported from the U.S. “NAFTA opened up that market, so all these peasants, it didn’t become cost effective to produce corn anymore.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I think the corn price was a significant factor,” that led to a rise in indigenous migration, says researcher and agricultural economist Rick Mines, “but I’m a big believer in the pull factor. If employment is available and people can cross the border, they’ll come.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From 2007 to 2009, Mines directed the \u003ca href=\"http://www.indigenousfarmworkers.org/index.shtml\">Indigenous Farmworker Study\u003c/a>. He estimates that up to 15 percent of California’s farmworkers are indigenous.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a young woman, Rosa Hernandez planned to become a teacher, but by the early '90s the economic hardships that drove many people out of southern Mexico hit her family, too. As the oldest, she felt responsible to come to the U.S. to work in the fields. She says, at that time, men usually came north and women stayed behind, but she already had female family members in Madera to ease her transition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Hernandez arrived almost 30 years ago, Madera felt a little familiar. “I would see people from Oaxaca here. Madera makes me think that I am with the people of my roots, of my indigenous tongue.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the time, though, she struggled to find some key ingredients essential to Oaxacan cooking, like chiles from the coast, and herbs like epazote or hierba santa. She says one woman lived outside of town and grew a hierba santa plant, but so many newly arrived Oaxacans came clamoring to buy the leaves, to have the bitter and sweet taste of home in their pozole, the woman had to turn people away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11674255\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-11674255\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rosa Hernandez at the swap meet in Madera, where local residents can buy many products used in Oaxacan cooking. \u003ccite>(Lisa MorehouseKQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Today, there’s such a large Oaxacan population in Madera that those ingredients are pretty easy to find at the local swap meet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The day I visit her restaurant’s industrial kitchen, Hernandez prepares ingredients for the spicy mole specific to her hometown, Santiago Juxtlahuaca, roasting garlic and at least three types of chiles in a dry pan on the stove top for a long time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You can never make mole in a rush,” she says. Oregano, cinnamon, sesame seeds and cloves help form a paste, to which she adds blended tomatillos and broth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Building Solidarity Among Immigrant Women\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How did Hernandez go from farmworker to restaurant co-owner? She’d always been an advocate for immigrants’ rights and for sustaining Oaxacan culture in the community, and in 2000, she caught the eye of a group called the \u003ca href=\"http://www.tamejavi.org/pvi.php\">Pan Valley Institute\u003c/a> (PVI).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When we opened Pan Valley Institute in 1998, we convened a group of Latino leaders to ask how we could better serve immigrant communities,” says director Myrna Martinez Nateras. “They recommend that we support women, and that we build interethnic relationships.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the Pan Valley Institute invited Hernandez to join a leadership development program with immigrant women of Hmong, indigenous Mexican and Central American roots, she soon learned the women had quite a bit in common, despite speaking different languages. “They love the place that they are from — their land, their village — they are here for a reason that is similar to mine.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A lot of those gathering were about sharing experiences,” says Martinez Nateras. “It was cathartic. For a lot of those women it was first time to share stories in a safe space.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I sit at the restaurant, eating a picadita while Hernandez peels garlic and remembers one of those meetings. Everybody brought important objects to share, and hers was a photo of her mother and father, which she’d previously kept hidden, trying to avoid painful reminders of home. The women sat in a circle, and opened up to each other. “For the first time in a long time I was able to share something about myself that I had guarded very close inside my heart,” Hernandez says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That day, she says, she realized “what united us was the sadness of having to leave something so important in order to be here. In that moment ... we were one woman with the same very broken heart.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That was a turning point for Hernandez. While she’d always brought Oaxacan food to meetings, being part of that group gave her a clear sense of her cultural values, and the confidence to start a restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11674258\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-11674258\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rosa Hernandez prepares chicken for mole, while Sylvia Rojas makes tortillas -- about 70 a day. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Hernandez and her business partner, Sylvia Rojas, met with potential investors and the owner of the market where their restaurant is now. Myrna Martinez Nateras says, “Rosa, because she’s a natural marketer, brought a jar of mole and some tamales” to sell them on the idea of the business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Three years in, the restaurant is going strong. “They are so passionate about their food,” says Martinez Nateras. “Their cooking isn’t just for people to eat, but a transferring of cultural knowledge” from their Oaxacan upbringing. She points to another reason why starting and succeeding at this business means so much to Hernandez and Rojas: leaving a physically demanding, unstable and low-paying job. “It let them get out of field work that is so exhausting,” she says, “and the money [farmworkers] make is nothing, sometimes $11,000 a year.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“After all the years of doing farm work and cleaning houses, one day I said, ‘All the people that taste my food tell me that it's very delicious,’ says Hernandez, \"and so that was a motivation, an inspiration for me to realize that what my mama showed me how to make in her kitchen, I can live off of. I can struggle to have something more.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This piece is part of Lisa’s series \u003ca href=\"https://californiafoodways.com/\">California Foodways\u003c/a>. To read more, see her companion piece at \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>, where it’s part of that publication’s yearlong series about under-reported stories in rural communities.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Tucked into a market that sells farming supplies, this tiny restaurant serves up Oaxacan delicacies. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1529191393,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":35,"wordCount":1625},"headData":{"title":"Providing a Taste of Oaxaca in the Central Valley | KQED","description":"Tucked into a market that sells farming supplies, this tiny restaurant serves up Oaxacan delicacies. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","headline":"Providing a Taste of Oaxaca in the Central Valley","datePublished":"2018-06-15T23:37:02.000Z","dateModified":"2018-06-16T23:23:13.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png","isAccessibleForFree":"Y","publisher":{"@type":"NewsMediaOrganization","@id":"https://www.kqed.org/#organization","name":"KQED","url":"https://www.kqed.org","logo":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}}},"disqusIdentifier":"11672776 https://ww2.kqed.org/news/?p=11672776","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/2018/06/15/providing-a-taste-of-oaxaca-in-the-central-valley/","disqusTitle":"Providing a Taste of Oaxaca in the Central Valley","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/tcrmag/2018/06/TCRMag20180615a.mp3","path":"/news/11672776/providing-a-taste-of-oaxaca-in-the-central-valley","audioDuration":531000,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In the town of Madera, California, in the heart of the state’s agricultural Central Valley, teenager Yazid Alamari shows off the merchandise in his family’s business, Gateway Market. “We have some gloves over here, a huge variety. A lot of bandanas.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He points out hats, water coolers, buckets and bags made specifically to carry just-picked mandarins, cherries and blueberries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Right there we have shears to cut vines, for pruning,” he says. “The Felco #2 is one of our best sellers. Those are used for onions.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They’re all supplies needed by local farmworkers, this market’s core customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Wednesday afternoon I spend at the market, I see close to 100 men coming through after working in the fields. Farm labor contractors hand out workers’ checks, and Alamari — who speaks Arabic and English with his cousins and brother — switches to Spanish to cash the checks. But Alamari says customers come for more than checks and supplies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A lot of people who come in here are from Oaxaca, and they get their food right there,” he says, pointing to the tiny eatery tucked into a corner of the market. The restaurant, \u003ca href=\"http://colectivomadera.com/\">Colectivo Sabor a Mi Tierra\u003c/a>, is co-owned by Sylvia Rojas and Rosa Hernandez, two women who have forged an alternative path to farm work while offering the many indigenous Mexicans in this part of the Central Valley a taste of home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take truck driver Carlos Santiago Gomez, who is taking his time with a traditional tamal filled with mole, wrapped in a banana leaf. He and a friend drove all the way from the town of Selma, 45 minutes away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s different in Selma,” he says. “There isn’t a lot of food like this,” traditional Oaxacan dishes with indigenous roots: tamales, picaditas, pozole, mole.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11674256\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-11674256\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31273_IMG_8502-qut-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rosa Hernandez forms \"picaditas\" while they’re hot, right off the stove. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Rojas and Hernandez started working hours ago, Rojas forming some of the 70 tortillas she’ll make by hand today, Hernandez grabbing thick discs of masa right off the stove to make picaditas, shaking her hands to relieve the heat. She pinches the hot dough to shape furrows or spirals, a form she says, “goes on forever and doesn’t have an end,” then spoons sauce and cheese on top. She says, even if it’s covered, she wants her food to be beautiful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hernandez grew up eating picaditas in the morning with coffee and the sweet corn drink atole in her indigenous Mixtec community in the mountains of Oaxaca in southern Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>A Community Like Home\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hernandez learned to cook Mixtec staples from her mother, grandmother and her community. On the days when there were large parties, she said, “we all took the day off to go help, from making tortillas to toasting chiles, cooking the beans. And the men would take care of going out into the country and bringing back the firewood” to fuel the ovens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Migration from indigenous Mexican communities to the U.S. started earlier, but rose significantly in the 1980s, says Gaspar Rivera-Salgado of the\u003ca href=\"https://www.labor.ucla.edu/\"> UCLA Labor Center.\u003c/a> “That coincided with a Mexican economic crisis that affected the countryside the most.” Part of the problem? Corn exported from the U.S. “NAFTA opened up that market, so all these peasants, it didn’t become cost effective to produce corn anymore.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I think the corn price was a significant factor,” that led to a rise in indigenous migration, says researcher and agricultural economist Rick Mines, “but I’m a big believer in the pull factor. If employment is available and people can cross the border, they’ll come.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>From 2007 to 2009, Mines directed the \u003ca href=\"http://www.indigenousfarmworkers.org/index.shtml\">Indigenous Farmworker Study\u003c/a>. He estimates that up to 15 percent of California’s farmworkers are indigenous.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a young woman, Rosa Hernandez planned to become a teacher, but by the early '90s the economic hardships that drove many people out of southern Mexico hit her family, too. As the oldest, she felt responsible to come to the U.S. to work in the fields. She says, at that time, men usually came north and women stayed behind, but she already had female family members in Madera to ease her transition.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Hernandez arrived almost 30 years ago, Madera felt a little familiar. “I would see people from Oaxaca here. Madera makes me think that I am with the people of my roots, of my indigenous tongue.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the time, though, she struggled to find some key ingredients essential to Oaxacan cooking, like chiles from the coast, and herbs like epazote or hierba santa. She says one woman lived outside of town and grew a hierba santa plant, but so many newly arrived Oaxacans came clamoring to buy the leaves, to have the bitter and sweet taste of home in their pozole, the woman had to turn people away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11674255\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-11674255\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1440\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut-1200x900.jpg 1200w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut-1180x885.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut-960x720.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut-240x180.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut-375x281.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31274_IMG_9325-qut-520x390.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rosa Hernandez at the swap meet in Madera, where local residents can buy many products used in Oaxacan cooking. \u003ccite>(Lisa MorehouseKQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Today, there’s such a large Oaxacan population in Madera that those ingredients are pretty easy to find at the local swap meet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The day I visit her restaurant’s industrial kitchen, Hernandez prepares ingredients for the spicy mole specific to her hometown, Santiago Juxtlahuaca, roasting garlic and at least three types of chiles in a dry pan on the stove top for a long time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You can never make mole in a rush,” she says. Oregano, cinnamon, sesame seeds and cloves help form a paste, to which she adds blended tomatillos and broth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Building Solidarity Among Immigrant Women\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How did Hernandez go from farmworker to restaurant co-owner? She’d always been an advocate for immigrants’ rights and for sustaining Oaxacan culture in the community, and in 2000, she caught the eye of a group called the \u003ca href=\"http://www.tamejavi.org/pvi.php\">Pan Valley Institute\u003c/a> (PVI).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“When we opened Pan Valley Institute in 1998, we convened a group of Latino leaders to ask how we could better serve immigrant communities,” says director Myrna Martinez Nateras. “They recommend that we support women, and that we build interethnic relationships.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the Pan Valley Institute invited Hernandez to join a leadership development program with immigrant women of Hmong, indigenous Mexican and Central American roots, she soon learned the women had quite a bit in common, despite speaking different languages. “They love the place that they are from — their land, their village — they are here for a reason that is similar to mine.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“A lot of those gathering were about sharing experiences,” says Martinez Nateras. “It was cathartic. For a lot of those women it was first time to share stories in a safe space.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I sit at the restaurant, eating a picadita while Hernandez peels garlic and remembers one of those meetings. Everybody brought important objects to share, and hers was a photo of her mother and father, which she’d previously kept hidden, trying to avoid painful reminders of home. The women sat in a circle, and opened up to each other. “For the first time in a long time I was able to share something about myself that I had guarded very close inside my heart,” Hernandez says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That day, she says, she realized “what united us was the sadness of having to leave something so important in order to be here. In that moment ... we were one woman with the same very broken heart.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That was a turning point for Hernandez. While she’d always brought Oaxacan food to meetings, being part of that group gave her a clear sense of her cultural values, and the confidence to start a restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_11674258\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-11674258\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut-900x1200.jpg 900w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut-1180x1573.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut-960x1280.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut-240x320.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut-375x500.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2018/06/RS31219_IMG_9338-qut-520x693.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rosa Hernandez prepares chicken for mole, while Sylvia Rojas makes tortillas -- about 70 a day. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Hernandez and her business partner, Sylvia Rojas, met with potential investors and the owner of the market where their restaurant is now. Myrna Martinez Nateras says, “Rosa, because she’s a natural marketer, brought a jar of mole and some tamales” to sell them on the idea of the business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Three years in, the restaurant is going strong. “They are so passionate about their food,” says Martinez Nateras. “Their cooking isn’t just for people to eat, but a transferring of cultural knowledge” from their Oaxacan upbringing. She points to another reason why starting and succeeding at this business means so much to Hernandez and Rojas: leaving a physically demanding, unstable and low-paying job. “It let them get out of field work that is so exhausting,” she says, “and the money [farmworkers] make is nothing, sometimes $11,000 a year.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“After all the years of doing farm work and cleaning houses, one day I said, ‘All the people that taste my food tell me that it's very delicious,’ says Hernandez, \"and so that was a motivation, an inspiration for me to realize that what my mama showed me how to make in her kitchen, I can live off of. I can struggle to have something more.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This piece is part of Lisa’s series \u003ca href=\"https://californiafoodways.com/\">California Foodways\u003c/a>. To read more, see her companion piece at \u003ca href=\"https://civileats.com/\">Civil Eats\u003c/a>, where it’s part of that publication’s yearlong series about under-reported stories in rural communities.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/news/11672776/providing-a-taste-of-oaxaca-in-the-central-valley","authors":["3229"],"programs":["news_72"],"series":["news_17045"],"categories":["news_8"],"tags":["news_17886","news_311","news_19542","news_333","news_20202","news_2403","news_23478","news_17041"],"featImg":"news_11672779","label":"news_72"},"news_10556883":{"type":"posts","id":"news_10556883","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"news","id":"10556883","score":null,"sort":[1434124837000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"warmer-winter-nights-mean-small-cherry-crop","title":"Warmer Winter Nights Mean Small Cherry Crop","publishDate":1434124837,"format":"image","headTitle":"California Foodways | The California Report | KQED News","labelTerm":{"term":72,"site":"news"},"content":"\u003cp>There’s just something about cherries. They’re small, sweet and crunchy, with an early harvest that tells us summer’s coming. Right now, though, this beloved fruit is a bit of a canary in a coal mine. The last couple of cherry harvests could be a warning about climate change and its impact on future tree crops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To find out more, I went to the south end of the Santa Clara Valley to meet Nicole Rajkovich. She started working with her family at Fairhaven Orchards when she was a little kid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“That was my fun summer vacation,” she says. “I didn’t go to the beach. I didn’t go on family vacation. We were working in the fruit stand every summer, and it was just so much fun.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[soundcloud url=\"https://api.soundcloud.com/tracks/210100639\" params=\"color=ff5500&auto_play=false&hide_related=false&show_comments=true&show_user=true&show_reposts=false\" width=\"100%\" height=\"166\" iframe=\"true\" /]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_10559890\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_7324.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-10559890 size-thumbnail\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_7324-400x266.jpg\" alt=\"Nicole Rajkovich standing in her family’s Bing cherry orchard in Hollister, Calif. (Cynthia E. Wood/KQED)\" width=\"400\" height=\"266\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_7324-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_7324-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_7324-1440x958.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_7324-1180x785.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_7324-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_7324.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nicole Rajkovich standing in her family’s Bing cherry orchard in Hollister, Calif. (Cynthia E. Wood/KQED) \u003ccite>(Cynthia E. Wood/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So when the weather got weird this winter, she was nervous. Up near Yreka, people got flooded out. At Huntington Beach, it hailed. In San Francisco, where I was walking around in a sundress, meteorologists announced it was the driest January ever. Rajkovich distinctly remembers the 90-degree heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“That’s great for sunbathing, but it’s not optimal weather for our crops,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I meet up with her at one plot a couple of hours south of San Francisco, in the shadow of big box stores in Gilroy. The four men on the crew use ladders to reach all the deep-red Royal Hazel cherries, dropping them into buckets slung around their necks then loading them into bins on a truck. Rajkovitch says this is one of only a handful of orchards they can harvest this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It seems like the past couple years the warmer winters made us have huge failures in our crops,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She’s not talking about the drought, though that certainly doesn’t help. They’re not getting any water from their former source, the Central Valley Water Project, but their wells are holding up okay. What really hurts the cherry trees is that winter temperatures here weren’t cold enough for long enough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_10559941\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_71431.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-10559941 size-medium\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_71431-800x532.jpg\" alt=\"Though the drought has taken its toll, warm winters are to blame for a shrinking cherry crop. (Cynthia E. Wood/KQED)\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_71431-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_71431-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_71431-1440x958.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_71431-1180x785.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_71431-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_71431.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Though the drought has taken its toll, warm winters are to blame for the smaller cherry crop. (Cynthia E. Wood/KQED) \u003ccite>(Cynthia E. Wood/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“If they don’t get enough chill hours they don’t produce the fruit,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put simply: Chill hours are crucial blocks of time when temperatures drop below 45 degrees. To produce a robust crop, fruit and nut trees need a certain amount of chilling for a healthy dormancy period. Cherries are really sensitive, needing more chill hours than most tree crops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Case in point: the cherries in the Rajkovich home orchard in nearby Hollister. Here, the classic Bing cherry trees look confused about what season it is, what they’re supposed to be doing. I meet up with Bill Coates, a longtime farm adviser here in San Benito County, to learn more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You have some ripe cherries, you have some blossoms, some branches that are almost devoid of leaves, and you have some buds that are still dormant,” he explains. “And this is all a result of lack of chilling.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery size=\"large\" type=\"rectangular\" ids=\"10559948,10559947\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bing cherries need about 1,000 hours, but San Benito County got just over \u003ca href=\"http://fruitsandnuts.ucdavis.edu/Weather_Services/chilling_accumulation_models/Chill_Calculators/index.cfm\">500\u003c/a>. Chill hours are down all over the state. In California, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ers.usda.gov/media/1679168/fts-357.pdf\">USDA reports\u003c/a> last year’s cherry production down 60 percent. And scientists at \u003ca href=\"http://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0006166\">UC Davis predict\u003c/a> that if greenhouse gas emissions aren’t curbed, chill hours will continue to shrink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“People may disagree on the cause of the change,” Coates says, “but there definitely has been a change in the climate, and it’s going to impact tree crops greatly.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[contextly_sidebar id=\"JQ0dflQvnFxaDQnRImRZgo4RTAgWu8cK\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He would love to see more effort put into breeding varieties that can withstand less chilling. Cherries won’t make or break California’s agricultural economy on their own, but the way they’re hit by fewer chill hours may serve as a warning for more lucrative commodities that are slightly less sensitive, tree crops like apples, pears and walnuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few feet away from the orchard, Nicole’s father, George Rajkovich, maneuvers a forklift, loading pallets of cherries onto a customer’s truck. This fruit all comes from those few orchards in production in Gilroy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This year, there’s nothing out there in our Hollister orchards ... nothing,” Rajkovich says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of the few cherries that did grow, many were damaged by rain in May. He thinks they’ll get 5 percent of a normal harvest in Hollister.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“In my lifetime, I’ve never seen one so bad,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_10559957\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_9931.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-10559957\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_9931-800x536.jpg\" alt=\"Workers sort cherries at the Rajkovich’s farm stand and sorting facility in Hollister, Calif.\" width=\"800\" height=\"536\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_9931-800x536.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_9931-400x268.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_9931-1440x964.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_9931-1180x790.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_9931-960x643.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_9931.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Workers sort cherries at the Rajkovich’s farm stand and sorting facility. \u003ccite>(Cyntha E. Wood/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And Rajkovich has seen a lot of cherry harvests. His father planted in San Jose after he emigrated from a region of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, before it became Yugoslavia, before it became Croatia. He and his brother would go running through the orchards, chasing their father and uncle, waiting for their mother to bring them lunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I knew nothing else,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He and his brother farmed all over this region, and they started planting cherries in Hollister in the late '50s, and started a fruit stand in the '70s. Rajkovich remembers decades ago when they’d have to put smudge pots in the orchards in the middle of the night and turn on fans to keep frost from killing a crop. He says he hasn’t had to do that in 20 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When his brother died eight years ago, Rajkovich had a talk with his kids.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_10560453\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_0071.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-10560453\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_0071-400x268.jpg\" alt=\"George and Lucille Rajkovich, along with their children, have started to plant other crops on their land.\" width=\"400\" height=\"268\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_0071-400x268.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_0071-800x536.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_0071-1440x964.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_0071-1180x790.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_0071-960x643.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_0071.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">George and Lucille Rajkovich, along with their children, have started to plant other crops on their land. \u003ccite>(Cynthia E. Wood/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“It’s up to you now,” he recalls, choking up. ‘We’ll sell it, or take it over.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They did. The kids joined their parents and continue to look for ways to lessen climate change’s negative impact: planting sod between rows of trees to keep moisture in the ground, experimenting with different cherry varieties, and using technology to figure out exactly when to apply chemicals that can help trees produce despite reduced chilling. Why all the effort? Because unlike lettuce or strawberries, for instance, trees have to be planned sometimes decades ahead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We have a whole lifetime actually of work and expense in planting and nurturing these orchards,” Rajkovich says. “If we don’t get chilling and don’t get production we have to start changing crops.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They’re already doing that. On new land they’ve bought, and orchards they’ve had to pull, the Rajkovich’s planted walnut trees, not cherries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This piece is part of the series \u003ca href=\"http://www.californiafoodways.com/\">California Foodways\u003c/a>. Stories in the series about food and climate change are funded by a grant from \u003ca href=\"http://invokingthepause.org/\">Invoking the Pause\u003c/a>. Lisa Morehouse produced this story while at a residency at the Mesa Refuge.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"As climate change impacts cherries, farmers and scientists worry about the loss of future tree crops.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1434166179,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":true,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":33,"wordCount":1284},"headData":{"title":"Warmer Winter Nights Mean Small Cherry Crop | KQED","description":"As climate change impacts cherries, farmers and scientists worry about the loss of future tree crops.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","headline":"Warmer Winter Nights Mean Small Cherry Crop","datePublished":"2015-06-12T16:00:37.000Z","dateModified":"2015-06-13T03:29:39.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png","isAccessibleForFree":"Y","publisher":{"@type":"NewsMediaOrganization","@id":"https://www.kqed.org/#organization","name":"KQED","url":"https://www.kqed.org","logo":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}}},"disqusIdentifier":"10556883 http://ww2.kqed.org/news/?p=10556883","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/2015/06/12/warmer-winter-nights-mean-small-cherry-crop/","disqusTitle":"Warmer Winter Nights Mean Small Cherry Crop","sourceUrl":"http://www.californiafoodways.com/","path":"/news/10556883/warmer-winter-nights-mean-small-cherry-crop","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>There’s just something about cherries. They’re small, sweet and crunchy, with an early harvest that tells us summer’s coming. Right now, though, this beloved fruit is a bit of a canary in a coal mine. The last couple of cherry harvests could be a warning about climate change and its impact on future tree crops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To find out more, I went to the south end of the Santa Clara Valley to meet Nicole Rajkovich. She started working with her family at Fairhaven Orchards when she was a little kid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“That was my fun summer vacation,” she says. “I didn’t go to the beach. I didn’t go on family vacation. We were working in the fruit stand every summer, and it was just so much fun.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cdiv class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__shortcodes__shortcodeWrapper'>\n \u003ciframe width='100%' height='166'\n scrolling='no' frameborder='no'\n src='https://w.soundcloud.com/player/?url=https://api.soundcloud.com/tracks/210100639&visual=true&color=ff5500&auto_play=false&hide_related=false&show_comments=true&show_user=true&show_reposts=false'\n title='https://api.soundcloud.com/tracks/210100639'>\n \u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/div>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_10559890\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_7324.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-10559890 size-thumbnail\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_7324-400x266.jpg\" alt=\"Nicole Rajkovich standing in her family’s Bing cherry orchard in Hollister, Calif. (Cynthia E. Wood/KQED)\" width=\"400\" height=\"266\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_7324-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_7324-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_7324-1440x958.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_7324-1180x785.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_7324-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_7324.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nicole Rajkovich standing in her family’s Bing cherry orchard in Hollister, Calif. (Cynthia E. Wood/KQED) \u003ccite>(Cynthia E. Wood/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So when the weather got weird this winter, she was nervous. Up near Yreka, people got flooded out. At Huntington Beach, it hailed. In San Francisco, where I was walking around in a sundress, meteorologists announced it was the driest January ever. Rajkovich distinctly remembers the 90-degree heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“That’s great for sunbathing, but it’s not optimal weather for our crops,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I meet up with her at one plot a couple of hours south of San Francisco, in the shadow of big box stores in Gilroy. The four men on the crew use ladders to reach all the deep-red Royal Hazel cherries, dropping them into buckets slung around their necks then loading them into bins on a truck. Rajkovitch says this is one of only a handful of orchards they can harvest this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It seems like the past couple years the warmer winters made us have huge failures in our crops,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She’s not talking about the drought, though that certainly doesn’t help. They’re not getting any water from their former source, the Central Valley Water Project, but their wells are holding up okay. What really hurts the cherry trees is that winter temperatures here weren’t cold enough for long enough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_10559941\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_71431.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-10559941 size-medium\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_71431-800x532.jpg\" alt=\"Though the drought has taken its toll, warm winters are to blame for a shrinking cherry crop. (Cynthia E. Wood/KQED)\" width=\"800\" height=\"532\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_71431-800x532.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_71431-400x266.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_71431-1440x958.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_71431-1180x785.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_71431-960x639.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_71431.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Though the drought has taken its toll, warm winters are to blame for the smaller cherry crop. (Cynthia E. Wood/KQED) \u003ccite>(Cynthia E. Wood/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“If they don’t get enough chill hours they don’t produce the fruit,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put simply: Chill hours are crucial blocks of time when temperatures drop below 45 degrees. To produce a robust crop, fruit and nut trees need a certain amount of chilling for a healthy dormancy period. Cherries are really sensitive, needing more chill hours than most tree crops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Case in point: the cherries in the Rajkovich home orchard in nearby Hollister. Here, the classic Bing cherry trees look confused about what season it is, what they’re supposed to be doing. I meet up with Bill Coates, a longtime farm adviser here in San Benito County, to learn more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You have some ripe cherries, you have some blossoms, some branches that are almost devoid of leaves, and you have some buds that are still dormant,” he explains. “And this is all a result of lack of chilling.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"size":"large","type":"rectangular","ids":"10559948,10559947","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bing cherries need about 1,000 hours, but San Benito County got just over \u003ca href=\"http://fruitsandnuts.ucdavis.edu/Weather_Services/chilling_accumulation_models/Chill_Calculators/index.cfm\">500\u003c/a>. Chill hours are down all over the state. In California, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ers.usda.gov/media/1679168/fts-357.pdf\">USDA reports\u003c/a> last year’s cherry production down 60 percent. And scientists at \u003ca href=\"http://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0006166\">UC Davis predict\u003c/a> that if greenhouse gas emissions aren’t curbed, chill hours will continue to shrink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“People may disagree on the cause of the change,” Coates says, “but there definitely has been a change in the climate, and it’s going to impact tree crops greatly.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He would love to see more effort put into breeding varieties that can withstand less chilling. Cherries won’t make or break California’s agricultural economy on their own, but the way they’re hit by fewer chill hours may serve as a warning for more lucrative commodities that are slightly less sensitive, tree crops like apples, pears and walnuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few feet away from the orchard, Nicole’s father, George Rajkovich, maneuvers a forklift, loading pallets of cherries onto a customer’s truck. This fruit all comes from those few orchards in production in Gilroy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This year, there’s nothing out there in our Hollister orchards ... nothing,” Rajkovich says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of the few cherries that did grow, many were damaged by rain in May. He thinks they’ll get 5 percent of a normal harvest in Hollister.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“In my lifetime, I’ve never seen one so bad,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_10559957\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_9931.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-10559957\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_9931-800x536.jpg\" alt=\"Workers sort cherries at the Rajkovich’s farm stand and sorting facility in Hollister, Calif.\" width=\"800\" height=\"536\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_9931-800x536.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_9931-400x268.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_9931-1440x964.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_9931-1180x790.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_9931-960x643.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_9931.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Workers sort cherries at the Rajkovich’s farm stand and sorting facility. \u003ccite>(Cyntha E. Wood/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>And Rajkovich has seen a lot of cherry harvests. His father planted in San Jose after he emigrated from a region of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, before it became Yugoslavia, before it became Croatia. He and his brother would go running through the orchards, chasing their father and uncle, waiting for their mother to bring them lunch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I knew nothing else,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He and his brother farmed all over this region, and they started planting cherries in Hollister in the late '50s, and started a fruit stand in the '70s. Rajkovich remembers decades ago when they’d have to put smudge pots in the orchards in the middle of the night and turn on fans to keep frost from killing a crop. He says he hasn’t had to do that in 20 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When his brother died eight years ago, Rajkovich had a talk with his kids.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_10560453\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_0071.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-10560453\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_0071-400x268.jpg\" alt=\"George and Lucille Rajkovich, along with their children, have started to plant other crops on their land.\" width=\"400\" height=\"268\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_0071-400x268.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_0071-800x536.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_0071-1440x964.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_0071-1180x790.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_0071-960x643.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/06/20150522-CynthiaWoodPhoto-DSC_0071.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">George and Lucille Rajkovich, along with their children, have started to plant other crops on their land. \u003ccite>(Cynthia E. Wood/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“It’s up to you now,” he recalls, choking up. ‘We’ll sell it, or take it over.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They did. The kids joined their parents and continue to look for ways to lessen climate change’s negative impact: planting sod between rows of trees to keep moisture in the ground, experimenting with different cherry varieties, and using technology to figure out exactly when to apply chemicals that can help trees produce despite reduced chilling. Why all the effort? Because unlike lettuce or strawberries, for instance, trees have to be planned sometimes decades ahead.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We have a whole lifetime actually of work and expense in planting and nurturing these orchards,” Rajkovich says. “If we don’t get chilling and don’t get production we have to start changing crops.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They’re already doing that. On new land they’ve bought, and orchards they’ve had to pull, the Rajkovich’s planted walnut trees, not cherries.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This piece is part of the series \u003ca href=\"http://www.californiafoodways.com/\">California Foodways\u003c/a>. Stories in the series about food and climate change are funded by a grant from \u003ca href=\"http://invokingthepause.org/\">Invoking the Pause\u003c/a>. Lisa Morehouse produced this story while at a residency at the Mesa Refuge.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/news/10556883/warmer-winter-nights-mean-small-cherry-crop","authors":["3229"],"programs":["news_72"],"series":["news_17045"],"categories":["news_1758","news_19906"],"tags":["news_17886","news_255"],"featImg":"news_10559950","label":"news_72"},"news_10473779":{"type":"posts","id":"news_10473779","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"news","id":"10473779","score":null,"sort":[1428246049000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"california-foodways-wine-in-the-wilderness","title":"California Foodways: Winemaking a Spiritual Practice for Trappist Monks","publishDate":1428246049,"format":"standard","headTitle":"California Foodways | The California Report | KQED News","labelTerm":{"term":72,"site":"news"},"content":"\u003cp>About an hour south of Redding, in a tiny town called Vina, there’s a winery that’s definitely off the beaten track. A lot of people in surrounding \u003ca href=\"http://www.co.tehama.ca.us/\" target=\"_blank\">Tehama County\u003c/a> have never heard of it. That might be because this region’s better known for olive groves and cattle ranches than grapes. For these, vintners, though, it’s spiritual work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[soundcloud url=\"https://api.soundcloud.com/tracks/199152691\" params=\"color=ff5500&auto_play=false&hide_related=false&show_comments=true&show_user=true&show_reposts=false\" width=\"100%\" height=\"166\" iframe=\"true\" /]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.newclairvaux.org/new-clairvaux-wines.html\" target=\"_blank\">New Clairvaux\u003c/a> winery, two people are filtering wine, getting it ready for bottling. On the surface, they make an odd pair. One is Aimee Sunseri, the winemaker heading up operations here. The other is Brother Christopher, a monk. He grew up in Sonoma County, wine country, but never thought he’d make the stuff, until a religious conversion led him to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.newclairvaux.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Abbey of New Clairvaux\u003c/a> in 2004, just a few years after the brothers planted grapes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Actually the winery and my vocation have grown up together,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_10476960\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Father2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-10476960\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Father2-800x618.jpg\" alt=\"Father Paul Mark Schwan, Abbot of New Clairvaux. \" width=\"800\" height=\"618\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Father2-800x618.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Father2-400x309.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Father2-1440x1112.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Father2-1180x911.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Father2-768x593.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Father2-320x247.jpg 320w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Father2.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Father Paul Mark Schwan, Abbot of New Clairvaux. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The brothers of New Clairvaux are Trappist monks, a subset of Cistercians that follows a strict observance. They’re cloistered -- rarely leaving the property and live in a walled-off cluster of buildings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s people who don’t understand that. They think, ‘What are you guys doing? There are so many needs in the world, and here you guys are wearing your pajamas, singing in a barn,” he says with a laugh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They wear long white robes called habits, and their plywood church is beautifully designed but unadorned. They spend hours every day in silence and prayer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I really believe that it’s important that there are people who are totally, 100 percent devoted to prayer,” Brother Christopher says.\u003c/p>\n\u003caside class=\"pullquote alignleft\">“What you do with the vines is you’re constantly removing what is extra... It’s the same with me in my interior life.” \u003ccite>Brother Rafael\u003c/cite>\u003c/aside>\n\u003cp>But the monks need to work to survive. They live off their own labor -- not donations -- and winemaking is one of their efforts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You can almost see your progress in spiritual life by how you react to work,” Brother Christopher says, especially during times like the busy harvest, or the physically challenging days spent bottling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You’re tired, working with brothers, somebody’s got one way they want to do things, tensions can grow, you can almost measure your progress by how you react, or how poorly you react. It’s a real barometer,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brother Rafael is in the abbey’s St. James vineyard wearing the work uniform of jeans and a navy sweatshirt to prune vines. When he came here from Ecuador 18 years ago he’d been seeking the right religious order for all of his adult life. He also had no experience with grapes, but he’s part of a long legacy of Cistercian vintners. European monks of their order have made wine for nearly 1,000 years, including at one of the most celebrated wineries in the world, Clos de Vougeot. For Brother Rafael this work and his vocation go hand in hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_10476969\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/BrotherRafael.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-10476969\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/BrotherRafael-800x726.jpg\" alt=\"Brother Rafael prunes vines in the Abbey's St. James vineyard.\" width=\"800\" height=\"726\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/BrotherRafael-800x726.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/BrotherRafael-400x363.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/BrotherRafael-1440x1307.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/BrotherRafael-1180x1071.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/BrotherRafael-768x697.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/BrotherRafael-320x290.jpg 320w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/BrotherRafael.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brother Rafael prunes vines in the Abbey's St. James vineyard. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“One thing that has been extremely helpful for me is to know myself by pruning,\" Brother Rafeal says. \"What you do with the vines is you’re constantly removing what is extra: you remove the extra clusters, you remove the extra leaves and canopy. For what?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's so the remaining grapes to have space to develop beautifully. Brother Rafael continues, “It’s the same with me in my interior life. I need to remove what is superfluous.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bother Rafael says being a monk doesn’t mean he totally sheds desires for things, or attractions, or anger. He’s just more aware and more in control of his emotions. Like prayer, work helps. He has a lot to contend with on the vineyard. It gets unrelentingly hot here, without the cool nights of other California wine regions. Then there’s the soil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This soil is extremely rich,” he says. “Some of the best soil is in California.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s deep, moist, sandy soil called Vina loam, which seems great to the outsider, but wine grapes do best in rocky soil where they have to work harder to grow. Here, Brother Rafael says, he can spend 20 minutes working down a row of vines removing leaves, and when he goes back to the beginning of the row: “You think, ‘Wow, something has changed.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The leaves have already started to grow back. “It’s very labor intense,” Brother Rafael says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given these conditions, why would a winemaker like Aimee Sunseri want to become business partners with the monks of New Clarivaux?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I like the challenge,” Sunseri says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_10476971\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 428px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/AimeeSunseri.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\" wp-image-10476971\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/AimeeSunseri-800x654.jpg\" alt=\"Winemaker Aimee Sunseri\" width=\"428\" height=\"350\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/AimeeSunseri-800x654.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/AimeeSunseri-400x327.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/AimeeSunseri-1440x1177.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/AimeeSunseri-1180x964.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/AimeeSunseri-768x628.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/AimeeSunseri-320x262.jpg 320w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/AimeeSunseri.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 428px) 100vw, 428px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Winemaker Aimee Sunseri \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Her family has made wine in Napa and other parts of California for five generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If you make good wines in Vina you’ve got to be really good at your craft,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even better than \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/americanexperience/features/biography/tcrr-stanford/\" target=\"_blank\">Leland Stanford\u003c/a>. In the late 1800s the railroad baron and one-time governor created the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sacramentohistory.org/search.php?imageid=1738\" target=\"_blank\">Great Vina Ranch\u003c/a> here, planting 4,000 acres. It was the world’s largest vineyard at the time. He did pretty well with brandy, but not with wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’ve come a long way, let’s just put it that way,” says Sunseri.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She and the monks benefit from air conditioning and lots of other new technology and knowledge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They started by researching and planting grapes that thrive in similar Mediterranean climates, like Tempranillo, Graciano, Albariño and Viognier. Sunseri has another challenge -- the monks make up a majority of the operation’s workforce, but they pray seven times a day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You have to realize they’re not here to make a career in winemaking or grape growing,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The brothers alter their schedule for a few days during harvest, but otherwise, Sunseri works around prayer. She says, unconditionally, it’s worth it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_10476974\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/TastingRoom.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-10476974 size-medium\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/TastingRoom-800x539.jpg\" alt=\"Visitors in the New Clairvaux tasting room.\" width=\"800\" height=\"539\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/TastingRoom-800x539.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/TastingRoom-400x269.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/TastingRoom-1440x970.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/TastingRoom-1180x795.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/TastingRoom-768x517.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/TastingRoom-320x216.jpg 320w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/TastingRoom.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Visitors in the New Clairvaux tasting room. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I really love working with the brothers,\" she says. \"They fulfill something in my life, and they’ve got some core values I hope rub off on me.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The partnership seems to satisfy customers, too. Though it’s a little out of the way, visitors come to the tasting room in a part of the old brick wine cellar Stanford built. The wines win scores of awards and the whole stock -- nearly 8,000 cases –- sold out last year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a tasting party, about 250 people make the drive out to Vina. Sunseri gives guests tastes right out of the tanks she and Brother Christopher worked with today, and a few monks pour wine for visitors like Roland Resendez.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Just the idea of the Abbey and the association with the Sunseri family makes it a great experience,” Resendez says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Resendez isn’t just here for the setting or the novelty of being served wine by monks. He’s a big fan of the wine and a member of their wine club.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I have to tell you it’s outstanding,” Resendez says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That pleases, but doesn’t really surprise the Abbot, Father Paul Mark. The star of the party, the Angelica, is a sweet dessert wine. It’s also the Abbey’s altar wine, served at mass to the brothers and regular attendees from the public.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_10476980\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Entrance.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-10476980\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Entrance-800x498.jpg\" alt=\"Not a sign you see at most wineries - at the entrance to New Clairvaux.\" width=\"800\" height=\"498\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Entrance-800x498.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Entrance-400x249.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Entrance-1440x896.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Entrance-1180x734.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Entrance-768x478.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Entrance-320x199.jpg 320w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Entrance.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Not a sign you see at most wineries - at the entrance to New Clairvaux. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The abbot jokes, “I’d like to think we’ve had an increased devotion to the precious blood of the Lord at Mass now!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then we get serious. I ask, even knowing the monks have to support themselves with their own work, isn’t there something almost paradoxical about creating a separate, sacred space and then inviting people in?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There is a tension there,” he says. “But if we see it in the context of our mission as Cistercian monks, doing all things so that God may be glorified, it’s just we’re being who we are.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the tasting room, and at winery parties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s a witnessing of who we are, and what our life is about. However we support ourselves at the heart of it is doing things for the glory of God.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that’s a pretty high standard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The series \u003ca href=\"http://www.californiafoodways.com/\">California Foodways\u003c/a> is funded, in part, by \u003ca href=\"http://www.calhum.org/\">Cal Humanities\u003c/a>. Reporter Lisa Morehouse produced this story during a fellowship at \u003ca href=\"http://www.hedgebrook.org/\">Hedgebrook\u003c/a>, a residency for women writers.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"In a tiny town south of Redding, the monks of New Clairvaux devote themselves to prayer - and wine. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1428340477,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":44,"wordCount":1547},"headData":{"title":"California Foodways: Winemaking a Spiritual Practice for Trappist Monks | KQED","description":"In a tiny town south of Redding, the monks of New Clairvaux devote themselves to prayer - and wine. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"NewsArticle","headline":"California Foodways: Winemaking a Spiritual Practice for Trappist Monks","datePublished":"2015-04-05T15:00:49.000Z","dateModified":"2015-04-06T17:14:37.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png","isAccessibleForFree":"Y","publisher":{"@type":"NewsMediaOrganization","@id":"https://www.kqed.org/#organization","name":"KQED","url":"https://www.kqed.org","logo":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}}},"disqusIdentifier":"10473779 http://ww2.kqed.org/news/?p=10473779","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/2015/04/05/california-foodways-wine-in-the-wilderness/","disqusTitle":"California Foodways: Winemaking a Spiritual Practice for Trappist Monks","customPermalink":"2015/04/05/california-foodways-winemaking-trappist-monks/","path":"/news/10473779/california-foodways-wine-in-the-wilderness","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>About an hour south of Redding, in a tiny town called Vina, there’s a winery that’s definitely off the beaten track. A lot of people in surrounding \u003ca href=\"http://www.co.tehama.ca.us/\" target=\"_blank\">Tehama County\u003c/a> have never heard of it. That might be because this region’s better known for olive groves and cattle ranches than grapes. For these, vintners, though, it’s spiritual work.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cdiv class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__shortcodes__shortcodeWrapper'>\n \u003ciframe width='100%' height='166'\n scrolling='no' frameborder='no'\n src='https://w.soundcloud.com/player/?url=https://api.soundcloud.com/tracks/199152691&visual=true&color=ff5500&auto_play=false&hide_related=false&show_comments=true&show_user=true&show_reposts=false'\n title='https://api.soundcloud.com/tracks/199152691'>\n \u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/div>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I visit \u003ca href=\"http://www.newclairvaux.org/new-clairvaux-wines.html\" target=\"_blank\">New Clairvaux\u003c/a> winery, two people are filtering wine, getting it ready for bottling. On the surface, they make an odd pair. One is Aimee Sunseri, the winemaker heading up operations here. The other is Brother Christopher, a monk. He grew up in Sonoma County, wine country, but never thought he’d make the stuff, until a religious conversion led him to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.newclairvaux.org/\" target=\"_blank\">Abbey of New Clairvaux\u003c/a> in 2004, just a few years after the brothers planted grapes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Actually the winery and my vocation have grown up together,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_10476960\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Father2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-10476960\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Father2-800x618.jpg\" alt=\"Father Paul Mark Schwan, Abbot of New Clairvaux. \" width=\"800\" height=\"618\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Father2-800x618.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Father2-400x309.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Father2-1440x1112.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Father2-1180x911.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Father2-768x593.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Father2-320x247.jpg 320w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Father2.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Father Paul Mark Schwan, Abbot of New Clairvaux. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The brothers of New Clairvaux are Trappist monks, a subset of Cistercians that follows a strict observance. They’re cloistered -- rarely leaving the property and live in a walled-off cluster of buildings.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There’s people who don’t understand that. They think, ‘What are you guys doing? There are so many needs in the world, and here you guys are wearing your pajamas, singing in a barn,” he says with a laugh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They wear long white robes called habits, and their plywood church is beautifully designed but unadorned. They spend hours every day in silence and prayer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I really believe that it’s important that there are people who are totally, 100 percent devoted to prayer,” Brother Christopher says.\u003c/p>\n\u003caside class=\"pullquote alignleft\">“What you do with the vines is you’re constantly removing what is extra... It’s the same with me in my interior life.” \u003ccite>Brother Rafael\u003c/cite>\u003c/aside>\n\u003cp>But the monks need to work to survive. They live off their own labor -- not donations -- and winemaking is one of their efforts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You can almost see your progress in spiritual life by how you react to work,” Brother Christopher says, especially during times like the busy harvest, or the physically challenging days spent bottling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You’re tired, working with brothers, somebody’s got one way they want to do things, tensions can grow, you can almost measure your progress by how you react, or how poorly you react. It’s a real barometer,” he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brother Rafael is in the abbey’s St. James vineyard wearing the work uniform of jeans and a navy sweatshirt to prune vines. When he came here from Ecuador 18 years ago he’d been seeking the right religious order for all of his adult life. He also had no experience with grapes, but he’s part of a long legacy of Cistercian vintners. European monks of their order have made wine for nearly 1,000 years, including at one of the most celebrated wineries in the world, Clos de Vougeot. For Brother Rafael this work and his vocation go hand in hand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_10476969\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/BrotherRafael.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-10476969\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/BrotherRafael-800x726.jpg\" alt=\"Brother Rafael prunes vines in the Abbey's St. James vineyard.\" width=\"800\" height=\"726\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/BrotherRafael-800x726.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/BrotherRafael-400x363.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/BrotherRafael-1440x1307.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/BrotherRafael-1180x1071.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/BrotherRafael-768x697.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/BrotherRafael-320x290.jpg 320w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/BrotherRafael.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brother Rafael prunes vines in the Abbey's St. James vineyard. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“One thing that has been extremely helpful for me is to know myself by pruning,\" Brother Rafeal says. \"What you do with the vines is you’re constantly removing what is extra: you remove the extra clusters, you remove the extra leaves and canopy. For what?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's so the remaining grapes to have space to develop beautifully. Brother Rafael continues, “It’s the same with me in my interior life. I need to remove what is superfluous.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bother Rafael says being a monk doesn’t mean he totally sheds desires for things, or attractions, or anger. He’s just more aware and more in control of his emotions. Like prayer, work helps. He has a lot to contend with on the vineyard. It gets unrelentingly hot here, without the cool nights of other California wine regions. Then there’s the soil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This soil is extremely rich,” he says. “Some of the best soil is in California.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s deep, moist, sandy soil called Vina loam, which seems great to the outsider, but wine grapes do best in rocky soil where they have to work harder to grow. Here, Brother Rafael says, he can spend 20 minutes working down a row of vines removing leaves, and when he goes back to the beginning of the row: “You think, ‘Wow, something has changed.’”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The leaves have already started to grow back. “It’s very labor intense,” Brother Rafael says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given these conditions, why would a winemaker like Aimee Sunseri want to become business partners with the monks of New Clarivaux?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I like the challenge,” Sunseri says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_10476971\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 428px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/AimeeSunseri.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\" wp-image-10476971\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/AimeeSunseri-800x654.jpg\" alt=\"Winemaker Aimee Sunseri\" width=\"428\" height=\"350\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/AimeeSunseri-800x654.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/AimeeSunseri-400x327.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/AimeeSunseri-1440x1177.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/AimeeSunseri-1180x964.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/AimeeSunseri-768x628.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/AimeeSunseri-320x262.jpg 320w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/AimeeSunseri.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 428px) 100vw, 428px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Winemaker Aimee Sunseri \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Her family has made wine in Napa and other parts of California for five generations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“If you make good wines in Vina you’ve got to be really good at your craft,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even better than \u003ca href=\"http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/americanexperience/features/biography/tcrr-stanford/\" target=\"_blank\">Leland Stanford\u003c/a>. In the late 1800s the railroad baron and one-time governor created the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sacramentohistory.org/search.php?imageid=1738\" target=\"_blank\">Great Vina Ranch\u003c/a> here, planting 4,000 acres. It was the world’s largest vineyard at the time. He did pretty well with brandy, but not with wine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“We’ve come a long way, let’s just put it that way,” says Sunseri.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She and the monks benefit from air conditioning and lots of other new technology and knowledge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They started by researching and planting grapes that thrive in similar Mediterranean climates, like Tempranillo, Graciano, Albariño and Viognier. Sunseri has another challenge -- the monks make up a majority of the operation’s workforce, but they pray seven times a day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You have to realize they’re not here to make a career in winemaking or grape growing,” she says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The brothers alter their schedule for a few days during harvest, but otherwise, Sunseri works around prayer. She says, unconditionally, it’s worth it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_10476974\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/TastingRoom.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"wp-image-10476974 size-medium\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/TastingRoom-800x539.jpg\" alt=\"Visitors in the New Clairvaux tasting room.\" width=\"800\" height=\"539\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/TastingRoom-800x539.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/TastingRoom-400x269.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/TastingRoom-1440x970.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/TastingRoom-1180x795.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/TastingRoom-768x517.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/TastingRoom-320x216.jpg 320w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/TastingRoom.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Visitors in the New Clairvaux tasting room. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>“I really love working with the brothers,\" she says. \"They fulfill something in my life, and they’ve got some core values I hope rub off on me.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The partnership seems to satisfy customers, too. Though it’s a little out of the way, visitors come to the tasting room in a part of the old brick wine cellar Stanford built. The wines win scores of awards and the whole stock -- nearly 8,000 cases –- sold out last year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For a tasting party, about 250 people make the drive out to Vina. Sunseri gives guests tastes right out of the tanks she and Brother Christopher worked with today, and a few monks pour wine for visitors like Roland Resendez.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Just the idea of the Abbey and the association with the Sunseri family makes it a great experience,” Resendez says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Resendez isn’t just here for the setting or the novelty of being served wine by monks. He’s a big fan of the wine and a member of their wine club.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“I have to tell you it’s outstanding,” Resendez says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That pleases, but doesn’t really surprise the Abbot, Father Paul Mark. The star of the party, the Angelica, is a sweet dessert wine. It’s also the Abbey’s altar wine, served at mass to the brothers and regular attendees from the public.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_10476980\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Entrance.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-10476980\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Entrance-800x498.jpg\" alt=\"Not a sign you see at most wineries - at the entrance to New Clairvaux.\" width=\"800\" height=\"498\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Entrance-800x498.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Entrance-400x249.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Entrance-1440x896.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Entrance-1180x734.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Entrance-768x478.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Entrance-320x199.jpg 320w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/10/2015/04/Entrance.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Not a sign you see at most wineries - at the entrance to New Clairvaux. \u003ccite>(Lisa Morehouse/KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The abbot jokes, “I’d like to think we’ve had an increased devotion to the precious blood of the Lord at Mass now!”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then we get serious. I ask, even knowing the monks have to support themselves with their own work, isn’t there something almost paradoxical about creating a separate, sacred space and then inviting people in?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“There is a tension there,” he says. “But if we see it in the context of our mission as Cistercian monks, doing all things so that God may be glorified, it’s just we’re being who we are.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the tasting room, and at winery parties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“It’s a witnessing of who we are, and what our life is about. However we support ourselves at the heart of it is doing things for the glory of God.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that’s a pretty high standard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The series \u003ca href=\"http://www.californiafoodways.com/\">California Foodways\u003c/a> is funded, in part, by \u003ca href=\"http://www.calhum.org/\">Cal Humanities\u003c/a>. Reporter Lisa Morehouse produced this story during a fellowship at \u003ca href=\"http://www.hedgebrook.org/\">Hedgebrook\u003c/a>, a residency for women writers.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/news/10473779/california-foodways-wine-in-the-wilderness","authors":["3229"],"programs":["news_72"],"series":["news_17045"],"categories":["news_8"],"tags":["news_17886","news_333","news_856","news_17286","news_17041","news_1275"],"featImg":"news_10476907","label":"news_72"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.","airtime":"THU 10pm, FRI 1am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Commonwealth Club of California"},"link":"/radio/program/commonwealth-club","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Commonwealth-Club-of-California-p1060/"}},"considerthis":{"id":"considerthis","title":"Consider This","tagline":"Make sense of the day","info":"Make sense of the day. Every weekday afternoon, Consider This helps you consider the major stories of the day in less than 15 minutes, featuring the reporting and storytelling resources of NPR. 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