The Bay Citizen scored an interview with Jacob Trette, the 30-year-old surfer who almost died after attempting to surf a massive wave at Mavericks. Trette was released from the hospital yesterday. Quotes from the interview:

“I’m feeling pretty good, I’m feeling a little bit light-headed but I feel like I’m still normal.”

“I was pretty fatigued and had lots of headaches, but I recovered in five days. The doctors were really surprised….”

“I remember catching a few good waves and then all of a sudden a big wave caught me…Everyone started paddling out to get over the wave but it just took us all. It was a mess — everyone got taken. There was not one person that made it over that wave.”

“I knew there was going to be hell to pay if I didn’t make it” over the wave.

“All I remember is swimming to the surface repeatedly and getting knocked down by a following wave, and swimming up to the surface again. I guess I had four waves hold me down until my body finally gave up.”

“I woke up and I was like, ‘What the hell happened?’ I was like, ‘Seriously, like I’m really in the hospital?’ I never would have thought in a million years that a wave like that would destroy me.”
Full interview


Jon Brooks

Jon Brooks is the host and editor for KQED's daily health and technology blog, Future of You. He is the former editor of KQED News Fix.

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