Spending Bill Protects Tipped Workers From Sharing With The Boss
White House Plan Giving Restaurant Owners More Control Over Tips Under Fire
When Tipping Was Considered Deeply Un-American
Local Experts Dish on the Art of Pickled Peppers
Bay Area Chefs on How to Select Winter Produce
Cutting Corners: Tipping in a Down Economy
Tips: $3.75 and Worth Every Penny
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My first book \u003ci>Country Fried Soul: Adventures in Dirty South Hip-Hop\u003c/i> was published in 2005, and a more personal West Coast anthology called \u003ci>California Love\u003c/i> is planned for 2023.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/27bd98c3b2849cbe3bfec1cfdfa15e33?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["author"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Tamara Palmer | KQED","description":"KQED Contributor","ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/27bd98c3b2849cbe3bfec1cfdfa15e33?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/27bd98c3b2849cbe3bfec1cfdfa15e33?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/tamarapalmer"},"tildeherrera":{"type":"authors","id":"5392","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5392","found":true},"name":"Tilde Herrera","firstName":"Tilde","lastName":"Herrera","slug":"tildeherrera","email":"tildeherrera@gmail.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Tilde Herrera is a San Francisco-based journalist who spends an inordinate amount of time plotting her next meal. 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Her work, covering food, business and sustainability, has appeared at the San Francisco Chronicle, Grist and GreenBiz, among others.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/340b8d764ecd1b4acd8f9989b6523095?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Tilde Herrera | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/340b8d764ecd1b4acd8f9989b6523095?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/340b8d764ecd1b4acd8f9989b6523095?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/tildeherrera"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_126151":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_126151","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"126151","score":null,"sort":[1521837032000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"spending-bill-protects-tipped-workers-from-sharing-with-the-boss","title":"Spending Bill Protects Tipped Workers From Sharing With The Boss","publishDate":1521837032,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>A bipartisan bill Congress passed this week spells out how the federal government will spend $1.3 trillion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also allocates some smaller amounts: the money customers leave behind as tips in restaurants, nail salons, and other businesses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The legislation makes it clear that tips belong to the workers who receive them, and can't be taken by their employers, managers, or supervisors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For the millions of workers who rely on their tips to pay their bills and support their families — most of whom are women — this change comes as a sigh of relief,\" says Sen. Patty Murray, D-Wash., who pushed to include the language in the omnibus spending bill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The long-standing policy that tips belong to workers had been called into question by \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/12/14/570927260/trump-administration-proposes-rule-that-could-change-distribution-of-tips\" target=\"_blank\">a proposed rule from the Trump administration's\u003c/a> Labor Department.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rule was intended to encourage more sharing of tips with cooks and dishwashers. But critics said it would have allowed business owners to pocket the money themselves. When the Labor Department asked for public comment on the proposal, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2018/02/05/583461856/its-last-call-for-trump-administration-proposal-on-tip-control-in-restaurant-ind\" target=\"_blank\">more than 375,000 people\u003c/a> responded.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Workers across the country organized and made their voices heard,\" Murray says. \"Those workers sent the Trump administration a message.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many restaurant servers are already required to share a portion of their tips with hostesses and busboys. But restaurant owners have not been allowed to require such tip pooling with \"back-of-the-house\" workers. Some owners complain that creates an unfair pay gap between tipped workers in the \"front of the house,\" and lower-paid workers in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Cooks historically and even today have always received the short end of the stick in terms of the tip world,\" says Kurt Huffman, who runs more than two dozen restaurants in Portland, Ore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kitchen workers in his restaurants earn starting wages of about $13.50 an hour. With tips, servers can earn two or three times as much.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The spending bill passed this week amends the Fair Labor Standards Act to allow mandatory tip sharing with back-of-the-house employees. But it also includes explicit safeguards to prevent employers from skimming tips or using that money to compensate managers and supervisors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is a huge victory for tipped workers everywhere,\" says Judi Conti, government affairs director for the National Employment Law Project. \"It makes clear that tips are the property of workers and under no circumstances can employers keep them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Conti notes the legislation allows for broader tip pools only when all of the workers in the pool are paid at least minimum wage. The measure also adds robust penalties for tip theft and allows workers to sue to recover any tips that are stolen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The president signed a spending bill Friday that, among other things, safeguards workers' tips. It blocks an earlier Trump administration move that may have allowed restaurant owners to pocket them.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1521837032,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":454},"headData":{"title":"Spending Bill Protects Tipped Workers From Sharing With The Boss | KQED","description":"The president signed a spending bill Friday that, among other things, safeguards workers' tips. It blocks an earlier Trump administration move that may have allowed restaurant owners to pocket them.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Spending Bill Protects Tipped Workers From Sharing With The Boss","datePublished":"2018-03-23T20:30:32.000Z","dateModified":"2018-03-23T20:30:32.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"126151 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=126151","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/03/23/spending-bill-protects-tipped-workers-from-sharing-with-the-boss/","disqusTitle":"Spending Bill Protects Tipped Workers From Sharing With The Boss","source":"Politics, Activism, Food Safety","sourceUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/politics-activism-food-safety","nprByline":"Scott Horsley, NPR Food","nprImageAgency":"Peter Muller/Getty Images ","nprStoryId":"596458498","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=596458498&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2018/03/23/596458498/spending-bill-protects-tipped-workers-from-sharing-with-the-boss?ft=nprml&f=596458498","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Fri, 23 Mar 2018 16:14:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Fri, 23 Mar 2018 16:14:51 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Fri, 23 Mar 2018 16:14:51 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/126151/spending-bill-protects-tipped-workers-from-sharing-with-the-boss","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>A bipartisan bill Congress passed this week spells out how the federal government will spend $1.3 trillion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It also allocates some smaller amounts: the money customers leave behind as tips in restaurants, nail salons, and other businesses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The legislation makes it clear that tips belong to the workers who receive them, and can't be taken by their employers, managers, or supervisors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"For the millions of workers who rely on their tips to pay their bills and support their families — most of whom are women — this change comes as a sigh of relief,\" says Sen. Patty Murray, D-Wash., who pushed to include the language in the omnibus spending bill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The long-standing policy that tips belong to workers had been called into question by \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/12/14/570927260/trump-administration-proposes-rule-that-could-change-distribution-of-tips\" target=\"_blank\">a proposed rule from the Trump administration's\u003c/a> Labor Department.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rule was intended to encourage more sharing of tips with cooks and dishwashers. But critics said it would have allowed business owners to pocket the money themselves. When the Labor Department asked for public comment on the proposal, \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2018/02/05/583461856/its-last-call-for-trump-administration-proposal-on-tip-control-in-restaurant-ind\" target=\"_blank\">more than 375,000 people\u003c/a> responded.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Workers across the country organized and made their voices heard,\" Murray says. \"Those workers sent the Trump administration a message.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many restaurant servers are already required to share a portion of their tips with hostesses and busboys. But restaurant owners have not been allowed to require such tip pooling with \"back-of-the-house\" workers. Some owners complain that creates an unfair pay gap between tipped workers in the \"front of the house,\" and lower-paid workers in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Cooks historically and even today have always received the short end of the stick in terms of the tip world,\" says Kurt Huffman, who runs more than two dozen restaurants in Portland, Ore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kitchen workers in his restaurants earn starting wages of about $13.50 an hour. With tips, servers can earn two or three times as much.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The spending bill passed this week amends the Fair Labor Standards Act to allow mandatory tip sharing with back-of-the-house employees. But it also includes explicit safeguards to prevent employers from skimming tips or using that money to compensate managers and supervisors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is a huge victory for tipped workers everywhere,\" says Judi Conti, government affairs director for the National Employment Law Project. \"It makes clear that tips are the property of workers and under no circumstances can employers keep them.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Conti notes the legislation allows for broader tip pools only when all of the workers in the pool are paid at least minimum wage. The measure also adds robust penalties for tip theft and allows workers to sue to recover any tips that are stolen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/126151/spending-bill-protects-tipped-workers-from-sharing-with-the-boss","authors":["byline_bayareabites_126151"],"categories":["bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_1146","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_1147","bayareabites_1149"],"featImg":"bayareabites_126152","label":"source_bayareabites_126151"},"bayareabites_124911":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_124911","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"124911","score":null,"sort":[1517955358000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"white-house-plan-giving-restaurant-owners-more-control-over-tips-under-fire","title":"White House Plan Giving Restaurant Owners More Control Over Tips Under Fire","publishDate":1517955358,"format":"audio","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on \u003cem>All Things Considered:\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttps://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2018/02/20180205_atc_its_last_call_for_trump_administration_proposal_on_tip_control_in_restaurant_industry.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's last call for public comment on a \u003ca href=\"https://www.dol.gov/WHD/flsa/tipcreditnprm.htm\">Trump administration proposal\u003c/a> that would give bar and restaurant owners more control over workers' tips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Labor Department has been asking for feedback, and already \u003ca href=\"https://www.regulations.gov/docket?D=WHD-2017-0003\">hundreds of thousands of people\u003c/a> have weighed in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many say they say they're opposed to a rule that would allow restaurant owners to pocket tips for themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think it's another example of corporate greed gone wrong,\" says Julie Holmes, a former waitress from Virginia. \"It basically makes people feel as though they can't earn a living. Women especially. Single mothers and people who are really out here working as hard as they can to try to provide are affected by this.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.oig.dol.gov/public/oaprojects/Engagement_Letter_Rulemaking.pdf\">inspector general is also investigating\u003c/a> reports that the Labor Department tried to hush up an internal analysis that found the proposed rule could cost tipped workers billions of dollars a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People have a lot of feelings about this,\" says Heidi Shierholz, who served as chief economist for the Labor Department under former President Obama. \"When the administration is trying to make it so employers can take tips, there's a lot of tipped workers out there. And people are really not happy about this.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shierholz suggests the proposal is driven by the restaurant industry, which has long wanted more control over workers' tips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's 20 percent of what a business generates, we have no ability to impact at all, traditionally,\" says Kurt Huffman, who runs more than two dozen restaurants in Oregon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Huffman says if he could, he would redirect some of those tips to lower-paid cooks and dishwashers. Many restaurants already require wait-staff to share tips with busboys and hostesses, but they're not allowed to require such sharing with people who work in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think all of us see this as a way to reallocate the tips a little bit more fairly to level out the wage inequity,\" Huffman says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Shierholtz, who now works for a left-leaning think tank, the Economic Policy Institute, says there's nothing in the proposed rule that would require tips to be shared with other workers. So long as an employer pays minimum wage, he or she could use tips to reward managers, make capital improvements, or simply keep the money.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003ca href=\"https://www.epi.org/publication/employers-would-pocket-workers-tips-under-trump-administrations-proposed-tip-stealing-rule/\">We estimate that nearly $6 billion\u003c/a> will be taken from workers and pocketed by employers,\" Shierholz says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She was surprised when the Labor Department issued its proposal without that kind of cost-benefit analysis, which is typically included. The department said at the time it would be too speculative.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now \u003ca href=\"https://bnanews.bna.com/daily-labor-report/labor-dept-ditches-data-on-worker-tips-retained-by-businesses\">a report from Bloomberg\u003c/a> says the Labor Department did crunch the numbers, but decided not to publish the results because they showed tipped workers could lose billions of dollars a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Department's Inspector General is investigating the reported omission. And \u003ca href=\"http://democrats-edworkforce.house.gov/imo/media/doc/2018-02-02%20Oversight%20Letter%20Tip%20Regulation%20Economic%20Analysis.pdf\">Democratic lawmakers\u003c/a> say it raises \"serious questions about the integrity\" of the rule-making process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If DOL [the Department of Labor] decides to push through this rule and ignores its costs to workers or the public's concerns, there will be a real erosion of trust in the DOL's commitment to protecting workers,\" said Rep. Bobby Scott, D-Va., ranking Democrat on the Education and Workforce Committee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A Labor Department spokesman said in a statement that officials do plan to include a cost-benefit analysis with their final decision on the tip rule.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scott complains that's too late.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It makes no sense to propose a rule and then do the research,\" he says. \"The rule should be a product of the research.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Holmes, whose critical comment was one of many received by the Labor Department, says she hopes public opinion will help to shape any final rule.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I really hope it does,\" she says. \"Maybe the powers that be can understand these are real people being affected by this.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For decades before this proposal, the Labor Department had maintained that \u003ca href=\"https://www.regulations.gov/document?D=WHD-2017-0003-0003\">tips are the property of the workers who receive them\u003c/a>. The restaurant industry has challenged that position and the issue could be decided by the Supreme Court.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Monday is the deadline for Americans to comment on the proposal. The Trump administration reportedly suppressed an analysis that found the plan could cost tipped workers billions of dollars a year.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1517955358,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":713},"headData":{"title":"White House Plan Giving Restaurant Owners More Control Over Tips Under Fire | KQED","description":"Monday is the deadline for Americans to comment on the proposal. The Trump administration reportedly suppressed an analysis that found the plan could cost tipped workers billions of dollars a year.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"White House Plan Giving Restaurant Owners More Control Over Tips Under Fire","datePublished":"2018-02-06T22:15:58.000Z","dateModified":"2018-02-06T22:15:58.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"124911 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=124911","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2018/02/06/white-house-plan-giving-restaurant-owners-more-control-over-tips-under-fire/","disqusTitle":"White House Plan Giving Restaurant Owners More Control Over Tips Under Fire","nprImageCredit":"Gusto Images","nprByline":"Scott Horsley, NPR Food","nprImageAgency":"Getty Images","nprStoryId":"583461856","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=583461856&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2018/02/05/583461856/its-last-call-for-trump-administration-proposal-on-tip-control-in-restaurant-ind?ft=nprml&f=583461856","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 05 Feb 2018 21:56:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 05 Feb 2018 16:21:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 05 Feb 2018 20:37:21 -0500","nprAudio":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2018/02/20180205_atc_its_last_call_for_trump_administration_proposal_on_tip_control_in_restaurant_industry.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1014&d=218&p=2&story=583461856&ft=nprml&f=583461856","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1583461857-d52a31.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1014&d=218&p=2&story=583461856&ft=nprml&f=583461856","path":"/bayareabites/124911/white-house-plan-giving-restaurant-owners-more-control-over-tips-under-fire","audioUrl":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2018/02/20180205_atc_its_last_call_for_trump_administration_proposal_on_tip_control_in_restaurant_industry.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1014&d=218&p=2&story=583461856&ft=nprml&f=583461856","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on \u003cem>All Things Considered:\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"nprOneAudioLink","attributes":{"named":{"src":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2018/02/20180205_atc_its_last_call_for_trump_administration_proposal_on_tip_control_in_restaurant_industry.mp3"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's last call for public comment on a \u003ca href=\"https://www.dol.gov/WHD/flsa/tipcreditnprm.htm\">Trump administration proposal\u003c/a> that would give bar and restaurant owners more control over workers' tips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Labor Department has been asking for feedback, and already \u003ca href=\"https://www.regulations.gov/docket?D=WHD-2017-0003\">hundreds of thousands of people\u003c/a> have weighed in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many say they say they're opposed to a rule that would allow restaurant owners to pocket tips for themselves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think it's another example of corporate greed gone wrong,\" says Julie Holmes, a former waitress from Virginia. \"It basically makes people feel as though they can't earn a living. Women especially. Single mothers and people who are really out here working as hard as they can to try to provide are affected by this.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"https://www.oig.dol.gov/public/oaprojects/Engagement_Letter_Rulemaking.pdf\">inspector general is also investigating\u003c/a> reports that the Labor Department tried to hush up an internal analysis that found the proposed rule could cost tipped workers billions of dollars a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People have a lot of feelings about this,\" says Heidi Shierholz, who served as chief economist for the Labor Department under former President Obama. \"When the administration is trying to make it so employers can take tips, there's a lot of tipped workers out there. And people are really not happy about this.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shierholz suggests the proposal is driven by the restaurant industry, which has long wanted more control over workers' tips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"There's 20 percent of what a business generates, we have no ability to impact at all, traditionally,\" says Kurt Huffman, who runs more than two dozen restaurants in Oregon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Huffman says if he could, he would redirect some of those tips to lower-paid cooks and dishwashers. Many restaurants already require wait-staff to share tips with busboys and hostesses, but they're not allowed to require such sharing with people who work in the kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I think all of us see this as a way to reallocate the tips a little bit more fairly to level out the wage inequity,\" Huffman says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Shierholtz, who now works for a left-leaning think tank, the Economic Policy Institute, says there's nothing in the proposed rule that would require tips to be shared with other workers. So long as an employer pays minimum wage, he or she could use tips to reward managers, make capital improvements, or simply keep the money.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003ca href=\"https://www.epi.org/publication/employers-would-pocket-workers-tips-under-trump-administrations-proposed-tip-stealing-rule/\">We estimate that nearly $6 billion\u003c/a> will be taken from workers and pocketed by employers,\" Shierholz says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She was surprised when the Labor Department issued its proposal without that kind of cost-benefit analysis, which is typically included. The department said at the time it would be too speculative.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now \u003ca href=\"https://bnanews.bna.com/daily-labor-report/labor-dept-ditches-data-on-worker-tips-retained-by-businesses\">a report from Bloomberg\u003c/a> says the Labor Department did crunch the numbers, but decided not to publish the results because they showed tipped workers could lose billions of dollars a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Department's Inspector General is investigating the reported omission. And \u003ca href=\"http://democrats-edworkforce.house.gov/imo/media/doc/2018-02-02%20Oversight%20Letter%20Tip%20Regulation%20Economic%20Analysis.pdf\">Democratic lawmakers\u003c/a> say it raises \"serious questions about the integrity\" of the rule-making process.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If DOL [the Department of Labor] decides to push through this rule and ignores its costs to workers or the public's concerns, there will be a real erosion of trust in the DOL's commitment to protecting workers,\" said Rep. Bobby Scott, D-Va., ranking Democrat on the Education and Workforce Committee.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A Labor Department spokesman said in a statement that officials do plan to include a cost-benefit analysis with their final decision on the tip rule.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scott complains that's too late.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It makes no sense to propose a rule and then do the research,\" he says. \"The rule should be a product of the research.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Holmes, whose critical comment was one of many received by the Labor Department, says she hopes public opinion will help to shape any final rule.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I really hope it does,\" she says. \"Maybe the powers that be can understand these are real people being affected by this.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For decades before this proposal, the Labor Department had maintained that \u003ca href=\"https://www.regulations.gov/document?D=WHD-2017-0003-0003\">tips are the property of the workers who receive them\u003c/a>. The restaurant industry has challenged that position and the issue could be decided by the Supreme Court.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2018 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/124911/white-house-plan-giving-restaurant-owners-more-control-over-tips-under-fire","authors":["byline_bayareabites_124911"],"categories":["bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_1149"],"featImg":"bayareabites_124915","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_104126":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_104126","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"104126","score":null,"sort":[1448930215000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"when-tipping-was-considered-deeply-un-american","title":"When Tipping Was Considered Deeply Un-American","publishDate":1448930215,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>Today's restaurants abandoning the tipping system are part of a long heritage of people — including Emerson and Twain — raging against the gratuity system.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With New York restaurateur Danny Meyer \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/10/14/448678237/danny-meyer-will-banish-tipping-and-raise-prices-at-his-restaurants\" target=\"_blank\">banning tips\u003c/a> in his restaurants and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/2015/11/05/no-tip-restaurants-bay-area\" target=\"_blank\">Berkeley restaurateurs\u003c/a> Andrew Hoffman and John Paluska joining the no-tip bandwagon, the tipping debate has clinked back into the headlines of late.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Except it never really went away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To tip or not to tip constitutes one of the oldest and nastiest debates surrounding America's restaurant business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When tipping began to spread in post-Civil War America, it was tarred as \"a cancer in the breast of democracy,\" \"flunkeyism\" and \"a gross and offensive caricature of mercy.\" But the most common insult hurled at it was \"offensively un-American.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Loathed as a master-serf custom of the caste-bound Old World that went back to the Middle Ages, tipping was blamed for encouraging servility and degrading America's democratic, puritanical, and anti-aristocratic ethic. European immigrants surging into the U.S. were charged with bringing this deplorable custom with them. But in fact, it was also American tourists, like the characters in Henry James' novels, who picked up the restaurant conventions of the Continent, and imported them back to America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In James's 1897 novel \u003cem>What Maisie Knew\u003c/em>, 6-year-old Maisie, breakfasting with her English stepfather, Sir Claude, at a quayside French café, watches the waiter retreat \"with the 'tip' gathered in with graceful thanks on a subtle hint from Sir Claude's forefinger.\" Significantly, the word \"tip\" is in quotation marks, indicating its newness to the little girl, as well as to James' American readers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For their part, Europeans were irked by wealthy Americans who ruined the rates by over-tipping — not just during the Gilded Age, but in more recent times as well. According to Kerry Segrave's \u003cem>Tipping: An American Social History of Gratuities, \u003c/em>conservative thinker William F. Buckley Jr. was in the habit of leaving a scandalously lavish \u003cem>propina\u003c/em> for the staff of the Swiss chateau he rented in the 1980s. He used the Spanish word for tip, his son Christopher explained, \"since it's money, you know, it's best not to discuss it directly.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>America's anti-tipping hall of fame includes millionaires John D. Rockefeller and Andrew Carnegie, who were stingy tippers, and Ralph Waldo Emerson, who famously said, \"I sometimes succumb and give the dollar, yet it is a wicked dollar, which, by and by, I shall have the manhood to withhold.\" A 1901 editorial in the\u003cem> Chicago Times-Herald \u003c/em>congratulated Mark Twain for refusing to tip a cab driver, and added, hyperbolically, that should the writer lived to \"claim credit for its abolition[,] he will deserve greater gratitude from the public on that account than for anything that he has written or ever may write.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_104128\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/triptych_tipping_enl-50ec221312cc2205e7f9b9fa08e4192f42e142ae.jpg\" alt=\"Famous anti-tippers (from left): Leon Trotsky, William Howard Taft and Mark Twain. Trotsky refused to tip his waiters while living in the Bronx. The Russian revolutionary thought the practice let capitalist restaurant owners off the hook.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"831\" class=\"size-full wp-image-104128\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/triptych_tipping_enl-50ec221312cc2205e7f9b9fa08e4192f42e142ae.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/triptych_tipping_enl-50ec221312cc2205e7f9b9fa08e4192f42e142ae-400x166.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/triptych_tipping_enl-50ec221312cc2205e7f9b9fa08e4192f42e142ae-800x332.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/triptych_tipping_enl-50ec221312cc2205e7f9b9fa08e4192f42e142ae-1440x598.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/triptych_tipping_enl-50ec221312cc2205e7f9b9fa08e4192f42e142ae-1180x490.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/triptych_tipping_enl-50ec221312cc2205e7f9b9fa08e4192f42e142ae-960x399.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Famous anti-tippers (from left): Leon Trotsky, William Howard Taft and Mark Twain. Trotsky refused to tip his waiters while living in the Bronx. The Russian revolutionary thought the practice let capitalist restaurant owners off the hook. \u003ccite>(Associated Press )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The long-suffering public grumbled incessantly about being at the mercy of surly waiters and porters who performed only when bribed. The attitude was summed up by the young prostitute in F. Scott Fitzgerald's 1920 novel, \u003cem>This Side of Paradise\u003c/em>, who, when caught with a patron in a hotel room, says angrily: \"Alec didn't give the waiter a \u003cem>tip\u003c/em>, so I guess the little bastard snitched.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The tipping abolitionist campaign came to a boil in 1915, when three states (Iowa, South Carolina and Tennessee) passed anti-tipping laws, joining three other states (Washington, Mississippi, and Arkansas) that had already passed similar bills. Georgia soon followed. By 1926, however, all these anti-tipping laws were repealed, writes Segrave, largely because it was seen as futile to police something that had gained a momentum of its own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tipping also had a racial angle. \"Class, race and gender all played a part in the early discussions of tipping,\" writes Segrave. He quotes journalist John Speed writing in 1902, \"Negroes take tips, of course, one expects that of them – it is a token of their inferiority. But to give money to a white man was embarrassing to me.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Such was the furor surrounding tipping that, in 1907, Sen. Benjamin Tillman of South Carolina – a virulent segregationist whose bronze statue stands outside the statehouse in Columbia – actually made national headlines for tipping a black porter at an Omaha hotel. The porter, well aware of Tillman's previous boast that he never \"tips a nigger,\" told reporters sardonically that he would have the quarter made into a watch charm. \"Tillman gives Negro a Tip,\" was \u003cem>The New York Times'\u003c/em> headline, under which ran a sympathetic editorial on how travelers were forced \"to convert themselves into fountains playing quarters upon the circumambient Africans.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tipping even became an election issue, writes Segrave. When William Howard Taft, who prided himself on never tipping his barber, ran for president in 1908, he was projected as \"the patron saint of the anti-tip crusade.\" Today, several Democratic presidential hopefuls have campaigned on raising the minimum wage – an issue that was, and continues to be, at the heart of the tipping debate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, as today, the crux of the matter was the low wages paid to waiters, making them dependent on patron largesse. The waiters' cause was taken up by union member T. O. Smith, in the 1919 edition of \u003cem>The Mixer and Server\u003c/em>, a trade journal of restaurant and hotel employees. He said waiters were unfairly accused of having \"an itching palm,\" when the truth was that the \"waiter was not the author, but the victim of the tipping system.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smith was referring to a popular 1916 \u003ca href=\"http://www.gutenberg.org/files/33170/33170-h/33170-h.htm\">anti-tipping jeremiad\u003c/a> by a writer named William R. Scott entitled, \u003cem>The Itching Palm: A Study of the Habit of Tipping in America.\u003c/em> Scott's screed decried the millions of Americans who derived their income from tips as suffering from a \"moral malady.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Smith pointed out acerbically that while the newspapers were dripping with concern for the \"long suffering public,\" not too much thought was directed at the \"long suffering waiter.\" He said the unjust system forced waiters to \"learn the art of smiling under even the most adverse circumstances\" – for a frown, however justified, would cost him not only his tip but perhaps his job as well. It was tougher for black waiters, who were commonly paid a lower wage than white waiters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Russian revolutionary Leon Trotsky refused to tip and had soup spilled on him by vengeful waiters in the Bronx (where he \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2000/09/17/nyregion/fyi-167878.html\">lived briefly\u003c/a>). He believed that tipping allowed capitalists, a.k.a. restaurant owners, to get off the hook. If the waiters were being paid a decent wage, he said, tipping would die on the vine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over time, however, the opposition to tipping faded. \"Tipping eventually became more entrenched in American life than in any other country,\" writes Segrave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1942, the Supreme Court ruled that employees had an exclusive right to their tips and that their employers could not force them to share their tips with kitchen staff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1966, Congress created a concept known as \"Tip Credit.\" This system allows employers to pay tipped employees a sub-minimum wage on the understanding that the rest of the wage would be made up by the largesse of customers. Which is why, to this day, the federal minimum wage for tipped employees is just $2.13 per hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tipping remains a deeply divisive issue. Many waiters at fine-dining restaurants prefer the tip system because it means a higher income — but it's harder for those who toil away in diners and lower-end eateries to earn a livable wage. No-tip restaurants like Alice Waters' famous Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Calif., have a fixed service charge that is divided among the whole staff, including the kitchen. As a result, waiters get less, but the back-of-the-house staff — traditionally left of out tipping — get more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The irony is that, though Americans imported the tipping custom from Europe, countries such as France have long done away with tipping: A 15 percent service charge is automatically added to the bill, and customers aren't obliged to tip. As a result, a French schoolgirl visiting the U.S. might find herself, like Maisie, curiously eyeing the \"tip' in the billfold. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Imported from Europe, the custom of leaving gratuities began spreading in the U.S. post-Civil War. It was loathed as a master-serf custom that\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>degraded America's democratic, anti-aristocratic ethic.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1448930215,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":1422},"headData":{"title":"When Tipping Was Considered Deeply Un-American | KQED","description":"Imported from Europe, the custom of leaving gratuities began spreading in the U.S. post-Civil War. It was loathed as a master-serf custom that degraded America's democratic, anti-aristocratic ethic.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"When Tipping Was Considered Deeply Un-American","datePublished":"2015-12-01T00:36:55.000Z","dateModified":"2015-12-01T00:36:55.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"104126 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=104126","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/11/30/when-tipping-was-considered-deeply-un-american/","disqusTitle":"When Tipping Was Considered Deeply Un-American","source":"Food History","sourceUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/food-history-and-celebrities/","nprByline":"Nina Martyris, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/nprfood/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprImageAgency":"Hulton Archive/Getty Images","nprStoryId":"457125740","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=457125740&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/11/30/457125740/when-tipping-was-considered-deeply-un-american?ft=nprml&f=457125740","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 30 Nov 2015 17:29:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 30 Nov 2015 15:58:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 30 Nov 2015 17:29:11 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/104126/when-tipping-was-considered-deeply-un-american","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Today's restaurants abandoning the tipping system are part of a long heritage of people — including Emerson and Twain — raging against the gratuity system.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With New York restaurateur Danny Meyer \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/10/14/448678237/danny-meyer-will-banish-tipping-and-raise-prices-at-his-restaurants\" target=\"_blank\">banning tips\u003c/a> in his restaurants and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/news/2015/11/05/no-tip-restaurants-bay-area\" target=\"_blank\">Berkeley restaurateurs\u003c/a> Andrew Hoffman and John Paluska joining the no-tip bandwagon, the tipping debate has clinked back into the headlines of late.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Except it never really went away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To tip or not to tip constitutes one of the oldest and nastiest debates surrounding America's restaurant business.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When tipping began to spread in post-Civil War America, it was tarred as \"a cancer in the breast of democracy,\" \"flunkeyism\" and \"a gross and offensive caricature of mercy.\" But the most common insult hurled at it was \"offensively un-American.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Loathed as a master-serf custom of the caste-bound Old World that went back to the Middle Ages, tipping was blamed for encouraging servility and degrading America's democratic, puritanical, and anti-aristocratic ethic. European immigrants surging into the U.S. were charged with bringing this deplorable custom with them. But in fact, it was also American tourists, like the characters in Henry James' novels, who picked up the restaurant conventions of the Continent, and imported them back to America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In James's 1897 novel \u003cem>What Maisie Knew\u003c/em>, 6-year-old Maisie, breakfasting with her English stepfather, Sir Claude, at a quayside French café, watches the waiter retreat \"with the 'tip' gathered in with graceful thanks on a subtle hint from Sir Claude's forefinger.\" Significantly, the word \"tip\" is in quotation marks, indicating its newness to the little girl, as well as to James' American readers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For their part, Europeans were irked by wealthy Americans who ruined the rates by over-tipping — not just during the Gilded Age, but in more recent times as well. According to Kerry Segrave's \u003cem>Tipping: An American Social History of Gratuities, \u003c/em>conservative thinker William F. Buckley Jr. was in the habit of leaving a scandalously lavish \u003cem>propina\u003c/em> for the staff of the Swiss chateau he rented in the 1980s. He used the Spanish word for tip, his son Christopher explained, \"since it's money, you know, it's best not to discuss it directly.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>America's anti-tipping hall of fame includes millionaires John D. Rockefeller and Andrew Carnegie, who were stingy tippers, and Ralph Waldo Emerson, who famously said, \"I sometimes succumb and give the dollar, yet it is a wicked dollar, which, by and by, I shall have the manhood to withhold.\" A 1901 editorial in the\u003cem> Chicago Times-Herald \u003c/em>congratulated Mark Twain for refusing to tip a cab driver, and added, hyperbolically, that should the writer lived to \"claim credit for its abolition[,] he will deserve greater gratitude from the public on that account than for anything that he has written or ever may write.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_104128\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/triptych_tipping_enl-50ec221312cc2205e7f9b9fa08e4192f42e142ae.jpg\" alt=\"Famous anti-tippers (from left): Leon Trotsky, William Howard Taft and Mark Twain. Trotsky refused to tip his waiters while living in the Bronx. The Russian revolutionary thought the practice let capitalist restaurant owners off the hook.\" width=\"2000\" height=\"831\" class=\"size-full wp-image-104128\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/triptych_tipping_enl-50ec221312cc2205e7f9b9fa08e4192f42e142ae.jpg 2000w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/triptych_tipping_enl-50ec221312cc2205e7f9b9fa08e4192f42e142ae-400x166.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/triptych_tipping_enl-50ec221312cc2205e7f9b9fa08e4192f42e142ae-800x332.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/triptych_tipping_enl-50ec221312cc2205e7f9b9fa08e4192f42e142ae-1440x598.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/triptych_tipping_enl-50ec221312cc2205e7f9b9fa08e4192f42e142ae-1180x490.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/11/triptych_tipping_enl-50ec221312cc2205e7f9b9fa08e4192f42e142ae-960x399.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2000px) 100vw, 2000px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Famous anti-tippers (from left): Leon Trotsky, William Howard Taft and Mark Twain. Trotsky refused to tip his waiters while living in the Bronx. The Russian revolutionary thought the practice let capitalist restaurant owners off the hook. \u003ccite>(Associated Press )\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The long-suffering public grumbled incessantly about being at the mercy of surly waiters and porters who performed only when bribed. The attitude was summed up by the young prostitute in F. Scott Fitzgerald's 1920 novel, \u003cem>This Side of Paradise\u003c/em>, who, when caught with a patron in a hotel room, says angrily: \"Alec didn't give the waiter a \u003cem>tip\u003c/em>, so I guess the little bastard snitched.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The tipping abolitionist campaign came to a boil in 1915, when three states (Iowa, South Carolina and Tennessee) passed anti-tipping laws, joining three other states (Washington, Mississippi, and Arkansas) that had already passed similar bills. Georgia soon followed. By 1926, however, all these anti-tipping laws were repealed, writes Segrave, largely because it was seen as futile to police something that had gained a momentum of its own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tipping also had a racial angle. \"Class, race and gender all played a part in the early discussions of tipping,\" writes Segrave. He quotes journalist John Speed writing in 1902, \"Negroes take tips, of course, one expects that of them – it is a token of their inferiority. But to give money to a white man was embarrassing to me.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Such was the furor surrounding tipping that, in 1907, Sen. Benjamin Tillman of South Carolina – a virulent segregationist whose bronze statue stands outside the statehouse in Columbia – actually made national headlines for tipping a black porter at an Omaha hotel. The porter, well aware of Tillman's previous boast that he never \"tips a nigger,\" told reporters sardonically that he would have the quarter made into a watch charm. \"Tillman gives Negro a Tip,\" was \u003cem>The New York Times'\u003c/em> headline, under which ran a sympathetic editorial on how travelers were forced \"to convert themselves into fountains playing quarters upon the circumambient Africans.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tipping even became an election issue, writes Segrave. When William Howard Taft, who prided himself on never tipping his barber, ran for president in 1908, he was projected as \"the patron saint of the anti-tip crusade.\" Today, several Democratic presidential hopefuls have campaigned on raising the minimum wage – an issue that was, and continues to be, at the heart of the tipping debate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, as today, the crux of the matter was the low wages paid to waiters, making them dependent on patron largesse. The waiters' cause was taken up by union member T. O. Smith, in the 1919 edition of \u003cem>The Mixer and Server\u003c/em>, a trade journal of restaurant and hotel employees. He said waiters were unfairly accused of having \"an itching palm,\" when the truth was that the \"waiter was not the author, but the victim of the tipping system.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Smith was referring to a popular 1916 \u003ca href=\"http://www.gutenberg.org/files/33170/33170-h/33170-h.htm\">anti-tipping jeremiad\u003c/a> by a writer named William R. Scott entitled, \u003cem>The Itching Palm: A Study of the Habit of Tipping in America.\u003c/em> Scott's screed decried the millions of Americans who derived their income from tips as suffering from a \"moral malady.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Smith pointed out acerbically that while the newspapers were dripping with concern for the \"long suffering public,\" not too much thought was directed at the \"long suffering waiter.\" He said the unjust system forced waiters to \"learn the art of smiling under even the most adverse circumstances\" – for a frown, however justified, would cost him not only his tip but perhaps his job as well. It was tougher for black waiters, who were commonly paid a lower wage than white waiters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Russian revolutionary Leon Trotsky refused to tip and had soup spilled on him by vengeful waiters in the Bronx (where he \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2000/09/17/nyregion/fyi-167878.html\">lived briefly\u003c/a>). He believed that tipping allowed capitalists, a.k.a. restaurant owners, to get off the hook. If the waiters were being paid a decent wage, he said, tipping would die on the vine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over time, however, the opposition to tipping faded. \"Tipping eventually became more entrenched in American life than in any other country,\" writes Segrave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1942, the Supreme Court ruled that employees had an exclusive right to their tips and that their employers could not force them to share their tips with kitchen staff.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1966, Congress created a concept known as \"Tip Credit.\" This system allows employers to pay tipped employees a sub-minimum wage on the understanding that the rest of the wage would be made up by the largesse of customers. Which is why, to this day, the federal minimum wage for tipped employees is just $2.13 per hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tipping remains a deeply divisive issue. Many waiters at fine-dining restaurants prefer the tip system because it means a higher income — but it's harder for those who toil away in diners and lower-end eateries to earn a livable wage. No-tip restaurants like Alice Waters' famous Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Calif., have a fixed service charge that is divided among the whole staff, including the kitchen. As a result, waiters get less, but the back-of-the-house staff — traditionally left of out tipping — get more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The irony is that, though Americans imported the tipping custom from Europe, countries such as France have long done away with tipping: A 15 percent service charge is automatically added to the bill, and customers aren't obliged to tip. As a result, a French schoolgirl visiting the U.S. might find herself, like Maisie, curiously eyeing the \"tip' in the billfold. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/104126/when-tipping-was-considered-deeply-un-american","authors":["byline_bayareabites_104126"],"categories":["bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1146","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_1148","bayareabites_1147","bayareabites_1149"],"featImg":"bayareabites_104127","label":"source_bayareabites_104126"},"bayareabites_50384":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_50384","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"50384","score":null,"sort":[1351455942000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"local-experts-dish-on-the-art-of-pickled-peppers","title":"Local Experts Dish on the Art of Pickled Peppers","publishDate":1351455942,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-9.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50396\" title=\"Jarred SF Brines version of the classic taqueria pickles. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-9.jpg\" alt=\"Jarred SF Brines version of the classic taqueria pickles. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jarred SF Brine’s version of the classic taquería pickles, made with red and green jalapeños, red onion and carrots.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>All Photos: Joseph Wrye\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My boyfriend and his green thumb managed to coax nearly a dozen heirloom tomato plants into growing well over six feet tall in our often-chilly backyard in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We've eaten those tomatoes as fast as they ripened, but the 12 hot pepper plants growing alongside them required a bit more thought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hot sauce has become my go-to plan when I come across a nice batch of hot peppers. This year I was also pulled in another direction, intrigued by a new crop of local food entrepreneurs who've launched businesses focused on pickling and preserving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I turned to the nice people behind \u003ca href=\"http://www.emmyspicklesandjams.com/\">Emmy's Pickles and Jams\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://jarredsf.com/\">Jarred SF Brine\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pauliespickling.com/Paulies_Plickling/menu.html\">Paulie's Pickling\u003c/a> for advice and they served up loads of tips on preserving peppers so we can continue eating them long after the season ends. Each of them makes a version of pickled jalapeños, some inspired by the classic blend found at taquerías throughout the Mission District.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Jalapeño-carrot was one of the first products we started with,\" says Emmy Moore, who co-founded Emmy's in 2010. \"We used to be based in the Mission and wanted to do something that spoke to that community.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>She ran through six trials before settling on her final recipe, which includes whole jalapeños, carrots and black pepper. Emiliana Puyana of Jarred uses a base recipe of sliced red and green jalapeños, carrots and red onion, but admits she never stops trying to perfect her formula.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50397\" title=\"Red and green jalapenos. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-1.jpg\" alt=\"Red and green jalapenos. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Red and green jalapeños share the spotlight in Jarred SF Brine’s pickled pepper medley.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They are super yummy and delicious, spicy and can go on pretty much anything -- a sandwich, taco, salad, you name it,\" says Puyana, who began selling pickled products in late 2011.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The process they each use is basically the same: They sanitize canning jars before stuffing them with cleaned vegetables. The vegetables are covered with a hot brine of vinegar, water, salt, aromatics and possibly sugar. The lids are sealed tightly and submerged in boiling water. Paul Ashby of Paulie's Pickling, however, skips the canning process and instead refrigerates the pickled peppers immediately after adding the brine, which he believes helps the vegetables to retain their texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The same process may be used with pickling sweet peppers and other vegetables, though the recipe would differ. Moore and Ashby only pickle hot peppers, but Puyana also sells a grilled corn and sweet pepper combo made with sweeter brine kicked up with chili flakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's important to taste peppers beforehand because the heat level may vary, especially later in the season when they seem to get hotter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"One may taste like a green pepper, one may set your mouth on fire,\" Ashby says. \"Find out what the flavor is like, and if there isn't enough heat, add dried peppers to get a consistent heat throughout the product. That's a good way to get it to the heat you want without effecting the flavor.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>The vegetables should be processed when they are as ripe as possible. In other words, don't wait until the peppers are about to turn before breaking out the canning jars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Use the freshest stuff possible,\" Moore says. \"You want it to be crisp, fresh.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ashby recommends local farmers' markets as the top source for fresh vegetables. Keep an eye out right now for end-of-season peppers at farmers’ markets throughout the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's always your best bet,\" he says. \"Things start to break down, become mushy, and as they deteriorate you get off flavors. One off flavor and that could ruin the whole batch.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Puyana recommends using medium, fleshy peppers for pickling that won't disintegrate over time, such as jalapeño, serrano, bell, gypsy, banana, cherry and piquillo peppers. Padrón and shishito peppers may be too delicate, she said, while hotter peppers, such as habanero and cayenne, may be used to enhance recipes but are often too hot for most people to eat on their own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to pickling, cleanliness and sanitation are key, Ashby says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You have to be super vigilant about how clean you are,\" Ashby says. \"There are a lot of rules you have to stick to.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Make sure the brine completely covers the vegetables but leave a little bit of \"head space\" so you can create a seal, Moore says. Or you can take Ashby's cue and simply store the vegetables and brine in a container in the fridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One last thing: don't throw out that pickling juice. It can be reused in several ways, such as adding some punch to salsa or a Bloody Mary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Throw more peppers in it, wait a week or two and they will be pickled again,\" Moore says. \"The brine will become infused with pepper flavor. It's good for meat marinades and you don't have to worry about bacteria.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Jarred SF Brine’s Pickled Jalapeños\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYields: 2 16 oz. jars\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparing the Jars:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Fill a large pot with water and bring it to a boil, making sure that the pot is large enough to hold the filled jars. Do not overfill the pot because the water level will rise when the jars are submerged.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place the empty jars in the boiling water for one minute.\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50398\" title=\"Submerge the jars in boiling water. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-2.jpg\" alt=\"Submerge the jars in boiling water. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Submerge the jars in boiling water\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the jars with a pair of tongs.\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-peppers-3-recropped.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50503\" title=\"Remove jars from pot with tongs. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-peppers-3-recropped.jpg\" alt=\"Remove jars from pot with tongs. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"400\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Carefully remove canning jars from pot.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place upside down on a counter lined with parchment paper.\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-4.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50399\" title=\"Set sanitized jars aside on parchment paper until ready to use. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-4.jpg\" alt=\"Set sanitized jars aside on parchment paper until ready to use. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Set sanitized jars aside on parchment paper until ready to use.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Repeat this step with the lids.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vegetables\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ingredients:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>7 jalapeños, a mix of red and green, sliced into 1/4-inch coins (should yield about 2 cups)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup thinly sliced carrot (approximately 1 medium carrot; use a mandoline if possible)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion rings (approximately 1/2 of a small red onion; use a mandoline if possible)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Instructions:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix, wearing gloves if mixing by hand. The yield should be roughly 3 cups of vegetables.\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-6.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50401\" title=\"Red and green jalapenos, red onion and carrot are ready to be jarred and pickled. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-6.jpg\" alt=\"Red and green jalapenos, red onion and carrot are ready to be jarred and pickled. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Red and green jalapeños, red onion and carrot are ready to be jarred and pickled.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the Brine\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ingredients:\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cup white wine vinegar\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cup water\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons salt\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons sugar\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon fennel seed\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon coriander seed\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns\u003cbr>\n2 sprigs of fresh Mexican oregano\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Instructions:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Combine all ingredients except the oregano in a stainless steel pot and bring to a boil.\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50402\" title=\"Hot brine includes white wine vinegar, salt, sugar and aromatics. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-7.jpg\" alt=\"Hot brine includes white wine vinegar, salt, sugar and aromatics. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This hot brine includes white wine vinegar, salt, sugar and aromatics.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place one spring of oregano in the bottom of each jar. Fill the jars with the prepared vegetables (each jar holds about 1 1/2 cups).\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50405\" title=\"Pack vegetables snugly into jars. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-8.jpg\" alt=\"Pack vegetables snugly into jars. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pack vegetables snugly into jars, but leave enough room that will allow the brine to penetrate.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Strain the brine into a measuring cup and pour over the vegetables. Make sure to leave a 1/4 of an inch of space and place the lid on securely. The jar is now ready to be processed.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Completely submerge the jar into the pot of boiling water for 3 minutes. Remove the jar from the water with tongs and let cool at room temperature.\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-10.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50403\" title=\"Boiling the jars helps to create a tight seal and kill any lurking bacteria. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-10.jpg\" alt=\"Boiling the jars helps to create a tight seal and kill any lurking bacteria. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"400\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Boiling the jars helps to create a tight seal and kill any lurking bacteria.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The pickles will be ready to eat in 10 days.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Resources recommended by the pickling experts in this story:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ball-Blue-Book-Guide-Preserving/dp/0972753702\">Ball Blue Book Guide to Preserving\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Tart-Sweet-Canning-Pickling-Recipes/dp/1605293822\">Tart and Sweet: 101 Canning and Pickling Recipes for the Modern Kitchen\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Preservation-Kitchen-Cooking-Preserves-Aigre-doux/dp/1607741008\">The Preservation Kitchen: The Craft of Making and Cooking with Pickles, Preserves, and Aigre-doux\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Canning-New-Generation-Flavors-Modern/dp/1584798645\">Canning for the New Generation: Bold, Fresh Flavors for the Modern Pantry\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Are you feeling sad that the local pepper season is drawing to a close? Don't be. The owners of Emmy's Pickles and Jams, Jarred SF Brine and Paulie's Pickling show how a little vinegar, salt and aromatics will let you enjoy those late-season jalapenos and serranos well into the winter.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1550600370,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":33,"wordCount":1340},"headData":{"title":"Local Experts Dish on the Art of Pickled Peppers | KQED","description":"Are you feeling sad that the local pepper season is drawing to a close? Don't be. The owners of Emmy's Pickles and Jams, Jarred SF Brine and Paulie's Pickling show how a little vinegar, salt and aromatics will let you enjoy those late-season jalapenos and serranos well into the winter.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Local Experts Dish on the Art of Pickled Peppers","datePublished":"2012-10-28T20:25:42.000Z","dateModified":"2019-02-19T18:19:30.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"50384 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=50384","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/28/local-experts-dish-on-the-art-of-pickled-peppers/","disqusTitle":"Local Experts Dish on the Art of Pickled Peppers","path":"/bayareabites/50384/local-experts-dish-on-the-art-of-pickled-peppers","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-9.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50396\" title=\"Jarred SF Brines version of the classic taqueria pickles. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-9.jpg\" alt=\"Jarred SF Brines version of the classic taqueria pickles. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jarred SF Brine’s version of the classic taquería pickles, made with red and green jalapeños, red onion and carrots.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>All Photos: Joseph Wrye\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My boyfriend and his green thumb managed to coax nearly a dozen heirloom tomato plants into growing well over six feet tall in our often-chilly backyard in San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We've eaten those tomatoes as fast as they ripened, but the 12 hot pepper plants growing alongside them required a bit more thought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hot sauce has become my go-to plan when I come across a nice batch of hot peppers. This year I was also pulled in another direction, intrigued by a new crop of local food entrepreneurs who've launched businesses focused on pickling and preserving.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I turned to the nice people behind \u003ca href=\"http://www.emmyspicklesandjams.com/\">Emmy's Pickles and Jams\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://jarredsf.com/\">Jarred SF Brine\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.pauliespickling.com/Paulies_Plickling/menu.html\">Paulie's Pickling\u003c/a> for advice and they served up loads of tips on preserving peppers so we can continue eating them long after the season ends. Each of them makes a version of pickled jalapeños, some inspired by the classic blend found at taquerías throughout the Mission District.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Jalapeño-carrot was one of the first products we started with,\" says Emmy Moore, who co-founded Emmy's in 2010. \"We used to be based in the Mission and wanted to do something that spoke to that community.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>She ran through six trials before settling on her final recipe, which includes whole jalapeños, carrots and black pepper. Emiliana Puyana of Jarred uses a base recipe of sliced red and green jalapeños, carrots and red onion, but admits she never stops trying to perfect her formula.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50397\" title=\"Red and green jalapenos. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-1.jpg\" alt=\"Red and green jalapenos. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Red and green jalapeños share the spotlight in Jarred SF Brine’s pickled pepper medley.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They are super yummy and delicious, spicy and can go on pretty much anything -- a sandwich, taco, salad, you name it,\" says Puyana, who began selling pickled products in late 2011.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The process they each use is basically the same: They sanitize canning jars before stuffing them with cleaned vegetables. The vegetables are covered with a hot brine of vinegar, water, salt, aromatics and possibly sugar. The lids are sealed tightly and submerged in boiling water. Paul Ashby of Paulie's Pickling, however, skips the canning process and instead refrigerates the pickled peppers immediately after adding the brine, which he believes helps the vegetables to retain their texture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The same process may be used with pickling sweet peppers and other vegetables, though the recipe would differ. Moore and Ashby only pickle hot peppers, but Puyana also sells a grilled corn and sweet pepper combo made with sweeter brine kicked up with chili flakes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's important to taste peppers beforehand because the heat level may vary, especially later in the season when they seem to get hotter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"One may taste like a green pepper, one may set your mouth on fire,\" Ashby says. \"Find out what the flavor is like, and if there isn't enough heat, add dried peppers to get a consistent heat throughout the product. That's a good way to get it to the heat you want without effecting the flavor.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>The vegetables should be processed when they are as ripe as possible. In other words, don't wait until the peppers are about to turn before breaking out the canning jars.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Use the freshest stuff possible,\" Moore says. \"You want it to be crisp, fresh.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ashby recommends local farmers' markets as the top source for fresh vegetables. Keep an eye out right now for end-of-season peppers at farmers’ markets throughout the Bay Area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"That's always your best bet,\" he says. \"Things start to break down, become mushy, and as they deteriorate you get off flavors. One off flavor and that could ruin the whole batch.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Puyana recommends using medium, fleshy peppers for pickling that won't disintegrate over time, such as jalapeño, serrano, bell, gypsy, banana, cherry and piquillo peppers. Padrón and shishito peppers may be too delicate, she said, while hotter peppers, such as habanero and cayenne, may be used to enhance recipes but are often too hot for most people to eat on their own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to pickling, cleanliness and sanitation are key, Ashby says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You have to be super vigilant about how clean you are,\" Ashby says. \"There are a lot of rules you have to stick to.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Make sure the brine completely covers the vegetables but leave a little bit of \"head space\" so you can create a seal, Moore says. Or you can take Ashby's cue and simply store the vegetables and brine in a container in the fridge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One last thing: don't throw out that pickling juice. It can be reused in several ways, such as adding some punch to salsa or a Bloody Mary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Throw more peppers in it, wait a week or two and they will be pickled again,\" Moore says. \"The brine will become infused with pepper flavor. It's good for meat marinades and you don't have to worry about bacteria.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Jarred SF Brine’s Pickled Jalapeños\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nYields: 2 16 oz. jars\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparing the Jars:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Fill a large pot with water and bring it to a boil, making sure that the pot is large enough to hold the filled jars. Do not overfill the pot because the water level will rise when the jars are submerged.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place the empty jars in the boiling water for one minute.\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50398\" title=\"Submerge the jars in boiling water. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-2.jpg\" alt=\"Submerge the jars in boiling water. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Submerge the jars in boiling water\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove the jars with a pair of tongs.\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-peppers-3-recropped.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50503\" title=\"Remove jars from pot with tongs. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-peppers-3-recropped.jpg\" alt=\"Remove jars from pot with tongs. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"400\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Carefully remove canning jars from pot.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place upside down on a counter lined with parchment paper.\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-4.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50399\" title=\"Set sanitized jars aside on parchment paper until ready to use. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-4.jpg\" alt=\"Set sanitized jars aside on parchment paper until ready to use. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Set sanitized jars aside on parchment paper until ready to use.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Repeat this step with the lids.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vegetables\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ingredients:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>7 jalapeños, a mix of red and green, sliced into 1/4-inch coins (should yield about 2 cups)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup thinly sliced carrot (approximately 1 medium carrot; use a mandoline if possible)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion rings (approximately 1/2 of a small red onion; use a mandoline if possible)\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Instructions:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix, wearing gloves if mixing by hand. The yield should be roughly 3 cups of vegetables.\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-6.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50401\" title=\"Red and green jalapenos, red onion and carrot are ready to be jarred and pickled. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-6.jpg\" alt=\"Red and green jalapenos, red onion and carrot are ready to be jarred and pickled. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Red and green jalapeños, red onion and carrot are ready to be jarred and pickled.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the Brine\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Ingredients:\u003c/em>\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cup white wine vinegar\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cup water\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons salt\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons sugar\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon fennel seed\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon coriander seed\u003cbr>\n1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns\u003cbr>\n2 sprigs of fresh Mexican oregano\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Instructions:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Combine all ingredients except the oregano in a stainless steel pot and bring to a boil.\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50402\" title=\"Hot brine includes white wine vinegar, salt, sugar and aromatics. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-7.jpg\" alt=\"Hot brine includes white wine vinegar, salt, sugar and aromatics. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"560\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>This hot brine includes white wine vinegar, salt, sugar and aromatics.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Place one spring of oregano in the bottom of each jar. Fill the jars with the prepared vegetables (each jar holds about 1 1/2 cups).\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50405\" title=\"Pack vegetables snugly into jars. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-8.jpg\" alt=\"Pack vegetables snugly into jars. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"400\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pack vegetables snugly into jars, but leave enough room that will allow the brine to penetrate.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Strain the brine into a measuring cup and pour over the vegetables. Make sure to leave a 1/4 of an inch of space and place the lid on securely. The jar is now ready to be processed.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Completely submerge the jar into the pot of boiling water for 3 minutes. Remove the jar from the water with tongs and let cool at room temperature.\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-10.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-50403\" title=\"Boiling the jars helps to create a tight seal and kill any lurking bacteria. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/10/pickled-pepper-10.jpg\" alt=\"Boiling the jars helps to create a tight seal and kill any lurking bacteria. Photo: Joseph Wrye\" width=\"400\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Boiling the jars helps to create a tight seal and kill any lurking bacteria.\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>The pickles will be ready to eat in 10 days.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Resources recommended by the pickling experts in this story:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ball-Blue-Book-Guide-Preserving/dp/0972753702\">Ball Blue Book Guide to Preserving\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Tart-Sweet-Canning-Pickling-Recipes/dp/1605293822\">Tart and Sweet: 101 Canning and Pickling Recipes for the Modern Kitchen\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Preservation-Kitchen-Cooking-Preserves-Aigre-doux/dp/1607741008\">The Preservation Kitchen: The Craft of Making and Cooking with Pickles, Preserves, and Aigre-doux\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Canning-New-Generation-Flavors-Modern/dp/1584798645\">Canning for the New Generation: Bold, Fresh Flavors for the Modern Pantry\u003c/a>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/50384/local-experts-dish-on-the-art-of-pickled-peppers","authors":["5392"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2638","bayareabites_95","bayareabites_2554","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_14738","bayareabites_1149"],"featImg":"bayareabites_50396","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_20628":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_20628","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"20628","score":null,"sort":[1293832776000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"bay-area-chefs-on-how-to-select-winter-produce","title":"Bay Area Chefs on How to Select Winter Produce","publishDate":1293832776,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/russelljackson500.jpg\" alt=\"Russell Jackson\" title=\"Russell Jackson\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20637\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Lafitte's Russell Jackson inhales the scent of Niitaka pears\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Credit for all photos: Tamara Palmer\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As important as growing and selecting produce is to a healthy diet and life, it's pretty stunning how few of us really know how to pick the best fruits and vegetables when shopping. Sure, we might have heard about certain items we're supposed to thump or squeeze, and we know to look out for obvious cosmetic flaws, but too much more beyond that is a big mystery for many.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We got up too early on a recent Saturday morning to find a number of San Francisco's notable chefs shopping for winter produce at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com/farmers_market.php\">Ferry Plaza Farmers Market\u003c/a>. It was fascinating not only to see what everyone was buying and placing on their big-wheeled carts, but to watch their gears turning while dreaming up new ways to use these high quality ingredients. After several conversations, we came away confident that our local farmers do a lot to pre-select the best produce before they bring it to a market, which is why so many of the chefs are confident to purchase large boxes of ingredients on the spot. But we also got some good tips on how to select for maximum flavor and longevity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/anniesomerville500.jpg\" alt=\"Kristie Knoll of Knoll Farms and Annie Somerville of Greens\" title=\"Kristie Knoll of Knoll Farms and Annie Somerville of Greens\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20632\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Kristie Knoll of Knoll Farms and Annie Somerville of Greens\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We think of Annie Somerville, proprietor of the legendary vegetarian restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.greensrestaurant.com\">Greens\u003c/a>, as a true goddess of produce here in the Bay Area, so we met her first. She suggested we convene at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.knollorganics.com\">Knoll Farms\u003c/a> stand, a biodynamic farm from Brentwood where we'd see all kinds of chefs lurking throughout the morning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Somerville was thrilled to see the beginnings of green garlic there (\"I am so happy!\" she exclaimed), something she says proprietor Rick Knoll actually pioneered and is typically found after the winter. When asked what to look for, she said,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp> \"Look for it to look just like that! Just really fresh and nice, the point is that it is the young stalks, the shoots. As they get more mature, they get longer and at the end there they start to bulb up and [wilt] and at some point you probably want to let it go. We use the shoots for sautéing. All the applications of fresh garlic, use your green garlic instead. Put it in any dish. All the tops can go into soup stock.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/greengarlic500.jpg\" alt=\"Green garlic\" title=\"Green garlic\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20634\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Green garlic\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She finds it a wonderfully versatile ingredient, but seemed most excited about her plans to add it to mashed potatoes. One of Kristie Knoll's favorite preparations, meanwhile, is to cut the stalks into \"knuckles\" and brown them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/horseradish500.jpg\" alt=\"horseradish root\" title=\"horseradish root\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20635\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Horseradish root\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While at the Knoll stand, we stumbled into Michael Tusk, chef/owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.quincerestaurant.com\">Quince\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cotognasf.com\">Cotogna\u003c/a> restaurants, selecting some horseradish. He says to look for pieces that aren't dried out. And, in this case of this root, size matters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I personally like the bigger pieces; they're easier to grate,\" he said. \"We use it in a salad with smoked eel and with beef, but I usually I just find stuff and then I decide what to do. It's good to have inspiration around, especially at this time of year, so I try to find as many fun things as possible.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/stingingnettles500.jpg\" alt=\"Stinging nettles\" title=\"Stinging nettles\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20638\">\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we caught up with David Bazirgan, the new executive chef of \u003ca href=\"http://www.fifthfloorrestaurant.com\">Fifth Floor\u003c/a>, he was hoisting up a giant bag of stinging nettles from \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinroots.com\">Marin Roots Farm\u003c/a> and explaining that he ingeniously uses them in place of spinach for a side dish of creamed nettles to accompany his new menu item, a dry aged New York steak also served with salt baked potatoes, roasted mushrooms, and red wine sauce. (He Thermo-mixes them so they don't sting.) Since this isn't an item eaten raw, picking them is a lot easier than other ingredients, but Bazirgan still suggests carefully looking through them for a vibrant, consistent color and no holes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/davidbazirgan500.jpg\" alt=\"David Bazirgan of Fifth Floor selects chicories.\" title=\"David Bazirgan of Fifth Floor selects chicories.\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20633\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>David Bazirgan of Fifth Floor selects chicories.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bazirgan also uses color cues when picking various chicories at Marin Roots, selecting the most vibrant leaves; look for the whites as well as the colors to be bright. He is currently using various heirloom varieties of chicories in a salad, dressed raw with compressed persimmon, Pt. Reyes blue cheese, hazelnuts, pomegranate, vadouvan, and Chardonnay vinaigrette.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Mark Richardson, the executive chef of \u003ca href=\"http://www.fourseasons.com/sanfrancisco/dining/seasons/\">Seasons Restaurant\u003c/a> at Four Seasons Hotel San Francisco, Brussels sprouts are a winter produce staple. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Look for the sprouts with tight-fitting leaves, with no browning or yellowing,\" he advised. \"If you can find the sprouts still on the stalk, they will be the freshest.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>His preparation for them is minimal: After blanching, he caramelizes the sprouts in a pan with some olive oil and then seasons with salt, fresh cracked pepper, and chili flakes. If you can't make it to Ferry Plaza, Richardson also suggests buying them at Mollie Stone's or Whole Foods locations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/hosszare500.jpg\" alt=\" Hoss Zaré of Zaré at Fly Trap examines white carrots.\" title=\" Hoss Zaré of Zaré at Fly Trap examines white carrots.\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20636\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hoss Zaré of Zaré at Fly Trap examines white carrots.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hoss Zaré of \u003ca href=\"http://www.zareflytrap.com/\">Zaré at Fly Trap\u003c/a> truly shocked us when we met him to scout out white carrots. We gravitated towards the biggest ones, but Zaré said that was actually not the best strategy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The bigger ones are woodier and less juicy,\" he cautions. \"Too small, and they're not going to have much flavor. You have to get the medium-sized ones so you get a lot of juice and flavor. Big ones are good for braising -- chop them up and caramelize them, but the smaller ones are juicier.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>His favorite current use for white carrots is to lightly peel, blanch, pan roast until lightly caramelized, and then stack with slices of braised lamb tongue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we were about to leave Ferry Plaza full of new ideas and new produce specimens to experiment on, we grabbed Russell Jackson, chef/owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.lafittesf.com\">Lafitte\u003c/a>, just steps up the Embarcadero from Ferry Plaza. He was checking out the produce at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_39.php\">Hamada Farms\u003c/a>, the Kingburg grower whose citrus and pears seem to be the secret weapon of the chefs who shop at Ferry Plaza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Which kind of pear do I want today?\" he asked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Niitaka!\" came the answer from two people behind the counter, in unison. Jackson leapt over to the box and started smelling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Surface indication really isn't anything,\" he said, pointing out some visible flaws on a Niitaka. \"It's really about the texture, firmness, and I'm really looking for that aromatic quality to it. You don't want something heavily bruised, but [some flaws] are just from tree hang, or where it faces the sun, or whether it's been scratched by a branch.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Right now, he's roasting pears to make a demi-glace for roasted sweetbreads and also using them raw in a salad with persimmons, chicories or radicchio, walnuts and Banyuls vinaigrette.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Where many households across the nation turn to canned goods in the winter, we have these staples and so much more ripe for the picking.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"As important as growing and selecting produce is to a healthy diet and life, it's pretty stunning how few of us really know how to pick the best fruits and vegetables when shopping. Sure, we might have heard about certain items we're supposed to thump or squeeze, and we know to look out for obvious cosmetic flaws, but too much more beyond that is a big mystery for many.\r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1539213404,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":32,"wordCount":1181},"headData":{"title":"Bay Area Chefs on How to Select Winter Produce | KQED","description":"As important as growing and selecting produce is to a healthy diet and life, it's pretty stunning how few of us really know how to pick the best fruits and vegetables when shopping. Sure, we might have heard about certain items we're supposed to thump or squeeze, and we know to look out for obvious cosmetic flaws, but too much more beyond that is a big mystery for many.\r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Bay Area Chefs on How to Select Winter Produce","datePublished":"2010-12-31T21:59:36.000Z","dateModified":"2018-10-10T23:16:44.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"20628 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=20628","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/12/31/bay-area-chefs-on-how-to-select-winter-produce/","disqusTitle":"Bay Area Chefs on How to Select Winter Produce","path":"/bayareabites/20628/bay-area-chefs-on-how-to-select-winter-produce","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/russelljackson500.jpg\" alt=\"Russell Jackson\" title=\"Russell Jackson\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20637\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Lafitte's Russell Jackson inhales the scent of Niitaka pears\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Credit for all photos: Tamara Palmer\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As important as growing and selecting produce is to a healthy diet and life, it's pretty stunning how few of us really know how to pick the best fruits and vegetables when shopping. Sure, we might have heard about certain items we're supposed to thump or squeeze, and we know to look out for obvious cosmetic flaws, but too much more beyond that is a big mystery for many.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We got up too early on a recent Saturday morning to find a number of San Francisco's notable chefs shopping for winter produce at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com/farmers_market.php\">Ferry Plaza Farmers Market\u003c/a>. It was fascinating not only to see what everyone was buying and placing on their big-wheeled carts, but to watch their gears turning while dreaming up new ways to use these high quality ingredients. After several conversations, we came away confident that our local farmers do a lot to pre-select the best produce before they bring it to a market, which is why so many of the chefs are confident to purchase large boxes of ingredients on the spot. But we also got some good tips on how to select for maximum flavor and longevity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/anniesomerville500.jpg\" alt=\"Kristie Knoll of Knoll Farms and Annie Somerville of Greens\" title=\"Kristie Knoll of Knoll Farms and Annie Somerville of Greens\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20632\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Kristie Knoll of Knoll Farms and Annie Somerville of Greens\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We think of Annie Somerville, proprietor of the legendary vegetarian restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.greensrestaurant.com\">Greens\u003c/a>, as a true goddess of produce here in the Bay Area, so we met her first. She suggested we convene at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.knollorganics.com\">Knoll Farms\u003c/a> stand, a biodynamic farm from Brentwood where we'd see all kinds of chefs lurking throughout the morning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Somerville was thrilled to see the beginnings of green garlic there (\"I am so happy!\" she exclaimed), something she says proprietor Rick Knoll actually pioneered and is typically found after the winter. When asked what to look for, she said,\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp> \"Look for it to look just like that! Just really fresh and nice, the point is that it is the young stalks, the shoots. As they get more mature, they get longer and at the end there they start to bulb up and [wilt] and at some point you probably want to let it go. We use the shoots for sautéing. All the applications of fresh garlic, use your green garlic instead. Put it in any dish. All the tops can go into soup stock.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/greengarlic500.jpg\" alt=\"Green garlic\" title=\"Green garlic\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20634\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Green garlic\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She finds it a wonderfully versatile ingredient, but seemed most excited about her plans to add it to mashed potatoes. One of Kristie Knoll's favorite preparations, meanwhile, is to cut the stalks into \"knuckles\" and brown them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/horseradish500.jpg\" alt=\"horseradish root\" title=\"horseradish root\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20635\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Horseradish root\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While at the Knoll stand, we stumbled into Michael Tusk, chef/owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.quincerestaurant.com\">Quince\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.cotognasf.com\">Cotogna\u003c/a> restaurants, selecting some horseradish. He says to look for pieces that aren't dried out. And, in this case of this root, size matters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"I personally like the bigger pieces; they're easier to grate,\" he said. \"We use it in a salad with smoked eel and with beef, but I usually I just find stuff and then I decide what to do. It's good to have inspiration around, especially at this time of year, so I try to find as many fun things as possible.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/stingingnettles500.jpg\" alt=\"Stinging nettles\" title=\"Stinging nettles\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20638\">\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we caught up with David Bazirgan, the new executive chef of \u003ca href=\"http://www.fifthfloorrestaurant.com\">Fifth Floor\u003c/a>, he was hoisting up a giant bag of stinging nettles from \u003ca href=\"http://www.marinroots.com\">Marin Roots Farm\u003c/a> and explaining that he ingeniously uses them in place of spinach for a side dish of creamed nettles to accompany his new menu item, a dry aged New York steak also served with salt baked potatoes, roasted mushrooms, and red wine sauce. (He Thermo-mixes them so they don't sting.) Since this isn't an item eaten raw, picking them is a lot easier than other ingredients, but Bazirgan still suggests carefully looking through them for a vibrant, consistent color and no holes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/davidbazirgan500.jpg\" alt=\"David Bazirgan of Fifth Floor selects chicories.\" title=\"David Bazirgan of Fifth Floor selects chicories.\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20633\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>David Bazirgan of Fifth Floor selects chicories.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bazirgan also uses color cues when picking various chicories at Marin Roots, selecting the most vibrant leaves; look for the whites as well as the colors to be bright. He is currently using various heirloom varieties of chicories in a salad, dressed raw with compressed persimmon, Pt. Reyes blue cheese, hazelnuts, pomegranate, vadouvan, and Chardonnay vinaigrette.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For Mark Richardson, the executive chef of \u003ca href=\"http://www.fourseasons.com/sanfrancisco/dining/seasons/\">Seasons Restaurant\u003c/a> at Four Seasons Hotel San Francisco, Brussels sprouts are a winter produce staple. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Look for the sprouts with tight-fitting leaves, with no browning or yellowing,\" he advised. \"If you can find the sprouts still on the stalk, they will be the freshest.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>His preparation for them is minimal: After blanching, he caramelizes the sprouts in a pan with some olive oil and then seasons with salt, fresh cracked pepper, and chili flakes. If you can't make it to Ferry Plaza, Richardson also suggests buying them at Mollie Stone's or Whole Foods locations.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/12/hosszare500.jpg\" alt=\" Hoss Zaré of Zaré at Fly Trap examines white carrots.\" title=\" Hoss Zaré of Zaré at Fly Trap examines white carrots.\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-20636\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Hoss Zaré of Zaré at Fly Trap examines white carrots.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hoss Zaré of \u003ca href=\"http://www.zareflytrap.com/\">Zaré at Fly Trap\u003c/a> truly shocked us when we met him to scout out white carrots. We gravitated towards the biggest ones, but Zaré said that was actually not the best strategy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"The bigger ones are woodier and less juicy,\" he cautions. \"Too small, and they're not going to have much flavor. You have to get the medium-sized ones so you get a lot of juice and flavor. Big ones are good for braising -- chop them up and caramelize them, but the smaller ones are juicier.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>His favorite current use for white carrots is to lightly peel, blanch, pan roast until lightly caramelized, and then stack with slices of braised lamb tongue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we were about to leave Ferry Plaza full of new ideas and new produce specimens to experiment on, we grabbed Russell Jackson, chef/owner of \u003ca href=\"http://www.lafittesf.com\">Lafitte\u003c/a>, just steps up the Embarcadero from Ferry Plaza. He was checking out the produce at \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_39.php\">Hamada Farms\u003c/a>, the Kingburg grower whose citrus and pears seem to be the secret weapon of the chefs who shop at Ferry Plaza.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Which kind of pear do I want today?\" he asked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Niitaka!\" came the answer from two people behind the counter, in unison. Jackson leapt over to the box and started smelling.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"Surface indication really isn't anything,\" he said, pointing out some visible flaws on a Niitaka. \"It's really about the texture, firmness, and I'm really looking for that aromatic quality to it. You don't want something heavily bruised, but [some flaws] are just from tree hang, or where it faces the sun, or whether it's been scratched by a branch.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Right now, he's roasting pears to make a demi-glace for roasted sweetbreads and also using them raw in a salad with persimmons, chicories or radicchio, walnuts and Banyuls vinaigrette.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Where many households across the nation turn to canned goods in the winter, we have these staples and so much more ripe for the picking.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/20628/bay-area-chefs-on-how-to-select-winter-produce","authors":["5111"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_95"],"tags":["bayareabites_2172","bayareabites_1149"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_10085":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_10085","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"10085","score":null,"sort":[1264791244000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"cutting-corners-tipping-in-a-down-economy","title":"Cutting Corners: Tipping in a Down Economy","publishDate":1264791244,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/dollar-and-scissors.jpg\" alt=\"dollar and scissors\" title=\"dollar and scissors\" width=\"350\" height=\"262\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-10090\">2009 was a rough year for restaurants in San Francisco and (if January is any indicator) 2010 isn't going to be a bed of truffles and lollipops either. As a 20-year veteran of the restaurant industry, I cringe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Have you taken a look at the list of restaurants that closed their doors in the past year? It isn't pretty. Browsing through SF Weekly's \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/sf_restaurant_closings/\">SFoodie blog\u003c/a> and looking at all of the fallen eateries the other day, I felt like Scarlett O'Hara listening to a long roster of Civil War dead, hoping that none of the old soldiers I truly loved in this city were among the dead or wounded.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of the casualties were no big surprise. For example, my reaction to finding out that \u003ca href=\"http://carnelianroom.com/\">The Carnelian Room\u003c/a> (sorry, Dad) atop the Bank of America tower had closed was like hearing that \u003ca href=\"http://video.tvguide.com/Abe+Vigoda/Abe+Vigoda++Dead+or+Alive/1700744\">Abe Vigoda\u003c/a> was really, really dead this time. My only surprise was that it had held on for so long.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am, however, wearing my widow's weeds for some of the other, smaller restaurants that have left us, like \u003ca href=\"http://dziuggy.com/ok/\">Old Krakow\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://missionmission.wordpress.com/2009/10/01/palace-steak-house-closes/\">The Palace Steakhouse\u003c/a> , and \u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.citysearch.com/profile/905551/san_francisco_ca/clementine_restaurant_closed.html\">Clementine\u003c/a>, just to name a few. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many restaurants that have survived the 21st century economy thus far have resorted to luring guests into their dining rooms with 2-for-1 specials, happy hours, and (sigh) coupons. Even the once-mighty Aqua and The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton are offering \u003ca href=\"http://www.opentable.com/diprogram.aspx?m=4&ref=1203\">1,000 Open Table points\u003c/a> if you would just pretty-please come for a visit. That's pretty much the online equivalent of begging.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In terms of restaurant workers, I'm one of the lucky ones. I work in a place that is still (author makes a hurried sigh of the cross) going strong. And there are fortunately several other venues in this city which are doing the same. That doesn't mean, however, that my fellow waiters and I are not feeling the pinch like everybody else. Like maybe you, for example.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, a lot of diners are cutting corners where they can. Some of those who do come into our places of business are either coming less often than they used to or are simply spending less. Often, I see couples either sharing one main course or foregoing them altogether and sticking to appetizers. If wine enters the picture, people are drinking more wines-by-the-glass than they are bottles. On the weekends, I see almost as many guests bring in their own wine as order from our wine list. And, of course, those wines aren't usually the ones listed on the reserve menu. As a result, our sales our down. Just like everyone else's, with the possible exception of pharmaceutical companies, undertakers, and bank executives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yesterday, for example, I overheard a very well-dressed business woman who works for a high-profile company mention to her lunch partners, \"I don't go out much anymore. I've started brown-bagging it at work. I even stopped getting my Starbucks every morning, for God's sake, so today's a real treat!\" It's a sensible, Depression Era mindset and I can't say that I blame her one bit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I do blame her for is leaving me a 12% tip. And I blame the business guy sitting ten feet away from her discussing how his children don't appreciate how expensive their ski weekend in Aspen really was who gave me even less. And, no, I wasn't having an off day. I was clean, neat, welcoming, informative, prompt, and all the dozen-or-so other good things I have to be to each and every table I take care of. I happen to see it as a trend-- and an ugly one at that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't worry, you won't be hearing violins and I promise not to go all \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePENcrE_xcQ\">Sally Struthers\u003c/a> on you today (though we \u003cem>do\u003c/em> share the same birthday, Sally and I). But it \u003cem>is\u003c/em> a bit of a rant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've said it before and I will say it again, if you leave a (expletive) tip to a server, there had better be a good reason for it. If she is rude or hostile, don't leave one at all. If he screws up your order and blames everyone else, then disappears for a cigarette when you need to pay the check so you can get to the airport like you said you needed to at the beginning of the meal... stiff him-- he deserves it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But leaving $20 on a $500 bill to a waiter who has orchestrated your meal, told you when you are ordering too much, selected a wine for you that you absolutely rave about, and who makes you look good because your guests are all raving about their experience is an outrage. All the more so because that waiter can't say or do anything about it without losing his job. There is a special dining circle in hell reserved for just this kind of diner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not that I feel very strongly about it one way or the other, of course.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearly a year ago, I explained in detail \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/02/20/tipping-down-and-out/\">exactly what happens\u003c/a> in such an extreme case of (undeserved) bad tipping. I mention it again because I've just witnessed another co-worker be treated in the same manner on a similarly-sized check. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Granted, the above is an extreme case, but people are leaving $3 less here, $5 less there. It's alarming to those of us who earn our living depending upon the unreliable tipping habits of strangers. $3 might not sound like very much, but it is. If a server waits upon ten tables in a night and they all sought to save a little money by leaving $3 less, that's $30 out of a server's take home pay per shift. If a server works five shifts per week, that's $150 less. Per month? Around $600. Per year? I think you get the picture. I'm being conservative in my estimates. And remember, sales are typically down all over town, so a server's losses are frequently more when you consider that tips are based on sales.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you do need to cut down your dining expenses, don't take it out on the good servers. Of course, if you come into my restaurant and \u003cem>want\u003c/em> to spend a lot of money, make no mistake-- I'll help you spend it. You'll have a great time doing it, too. But if you come and \u003cem>don't\u003c/em> want to blow your whole pay check, I will go out of my way make sure you don't. I'm not going to make you feel like a cheapskate and you'll have just as good a time as the Fat Cats sitting next to you (if not better because, hey, you're more relaxed since you haven't just spent your rent money trying to impress your date).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the bill comes, be kind. Remember that I found you that beautiful bottle of wine from a region you've never tried before that was $20 less (and much better) than the one you were asking about. It made you look adventurous. Do keep in mind that I suggested our rib eye steak was big enough to feed the both of you. That made your dinner a little more intimate, didn't it? And when I served it all out table side? Ah, that was a nice touch, wasn't it? And when I sent you that dessert for no other reason than \"just because,\" well... perhaps you might bear in mind that I just cut about $50 off of your tab when you are leaving me a tip. Great waiters are worth their weight in gold. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My assumption here is that most of you reading this are savvy enough diners to not make your servers take one in the shorts. You are more than likely sophisticated enough to know good service when you experience it. Why do I know this? Because you're reading a food blog, that's why. I'm not saying it's you. Really. Except those of you who are invariably going to comment that I am being whiney or that I should \"get a real job\" (I've heard that one before). I'm saying it might just be your mother, or your husband, or your best friend, in which case I hope that you might pass this post along to them after you've given them a nice big hug and told them you love them, even though they are embarrassingly cheap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next time you go out to dinner and you've had a great meal and and even greater server, make sure he or she is taken care of. In the words of the mortal Canadian (and you know how Americans make fun of their tipping habits) pundit Nicholas Demeda, \"If you can afford to dine out, you can afford to tip well.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tipping for good service is the one place you should never cut corners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Watch \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/tv/programs/thisweek/watch/archive/226548/c\">This Week in Northern California\u003c/a> tonight, \u003cem>Friday January 29 at 8pm\u003c/em> to see \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/host-biography/\">Leslie Sbrocco\u003c/a>, host of \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/\">Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/a> in a new segment on local food and wine trends. This week, a conversation about restaurants and the recession and underground food markets with Bay Area Bites bloggers, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/michael-procopio/\">Michael Procopio\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/stephanie-rosenbaum/\">Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/a>.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"2009 was a rough year for restaurants in San Francisco and (if January is any indicator) 2010 isn't going to be a bed of truffles and lollipops either. As a 20-year veteran of the restaurant industry, I cringe.\r\n\r\nHave you taken a look at the list of restaurants that closed their doors in the past year? \r\n","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1264823834,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":23,"wordCount":1590},"headData":{"title":"Cutting Corners: Tipping in a Down Economy | KQED","description":"2009 was a rough year for restaurants in San Francisco and (if January is any indicator) 2010 isn't going to be a bed of truffles and lollipops either. As a 20-year veteran of the restaurant industry, I cringe.\r\n\r\nHave you taken a look at the list of restaurants that closed their doors in the past year? \r\n","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Cutting Corners: Tipping in a Down Economy","datePublished":"2010-01-29T18:54:04.000Z","dateModified":"2010-01-30T03:57:14.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"10085 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=10085","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/01/29/cutting-corners-tipping-in-a-down-economy/","disqusTitle":"Cutting Corners: Tipping in a Down Economy","path":"/bayareabites/10085/cutting-corners-tipping-in-a-down-economy","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/01/dollar-and-scissors.jpg\" alt=\"dollar and scissors\" title=\"dollar and scissors\" width=\"350\" height=\"262\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-10090\">2009 was a rough year for restaurants in San Francisco and (if January is any indicator) 2010 isn't going to be a bed of truffles and lollipops either. As a 20-year veteran of the restaurant industry, I cringe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Have you taken a look at the list of restaurants that closed their doors in the past year? It isn't pretty. Browsing through SF Weekly's \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/sf_restaurant_closings/\">SFoodie blog\u003c/a> and looking at all of the fallen eateries the other day, I felt like Scarlett O'Hara listening to a long roster of Civil War dead, hoping that none of the old soldiers I truly loved in this city were among the dead or wounded.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of the casualties were no big surprise. For example, my reaction to finding out that \u003ca href=\"http://carnelianroom.com/\">The Carnelian Room\u003c/a> (sorry, Dad) atop the Bank of America tower had closed was like hearing that \u003ca href=\"http://video.tvguide.com/Abe+Vigoda/Abe+Vigoda++Dead+or+Alive/1700744\">Abe Vigoda\u003c/a> was really, really dead this time. My only surprise was that it had held on for so long.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am, however, wearing my widow's weeds for some of the other, smaller restaurants that have left us, like \u003ca href=\"http://dziuggy.com/ok/\">Old Krakow\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://missionmission.wordpress.com/2009/10/01/palace-steak-house-closes/\">The Palace Steakhouse\u003c/a> , and \u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.citysearch.com/profile/905551/san_francisco_ca/clementine_restaurant_closed.html\">Clementine\u003c/a>, just to name a few. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many restaurants that have survived the 21st century economy thus far have resorted to luring guests into their dining rooms with 2-for-1 specials, happy hours, and (sigh) coupons. Even the once-mighty Aqua and The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton are offering \u003ca href=\"http://www.opentable.com/diprogram.aspx?m=4&ref=1203\">1,000 Open Table points\u003c/a> if you would just pretty-please come for a visit. That's pretty much the online equivalent of begging.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In terms of restaurant workers, I'm one of the lucky ones. I work in a place that is still (author makes a hurried sigh of the cross) going strong. And there are fortunately several other venues in this city which are doing the same. That doesn't mean, however, that my fellow waiters and I are not feeling the pinch like everybody else. Like maybe you, for example.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, a lot of diners are cutting corners where they can. Some of those who do come into our places of business are either coming less often than they used to or are simply spending less. Often, I see couples either sharing one main course or foregoing them altogether and sticking to appetizers. If wine enters the picture, people are drinking more wines-by-the-glass than they are bottles. On the weekends, I see almost as many guests bring in their own wine as order from our wine list. And, of course, those wines aren't usually the ones listed on the reserve menu. As a result, our sales our down. Just like everyone else's, with the possible exception of pharmaceutical companies, undertakers, and bank executives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yesterday, for example, I overheard a very well-dressed business woman who works for a high-profile company mention to her lunch partners, \"I don't go out much anymore. I've started brown-bagging it at work. I even stopped getting my Starbucks every morning, for God's sake, so today's a real treat!\" It's a sensible, Depression Era mindset and I can't say that I blame her one bit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I do blame her for is leaving me a 12% tip. And I blame the business guy sitting ten feet away from her discussing how his children don't appreciate how expensive their ski weekend in Aspen really was who gave me even less. And, no, I wasn't having an off day. I was clean, neat, welcoming, informative, prompt, and all the dozen-or-so other good things I have to be to each and every table I take care of. I happen to see it as a trend-- and an ugly one at that.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't worry, you won't be hearing violins and I promise not to go all \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePENcrE_xcQ\">Sally Struthers\u003c/a> on you today (though we \u003cem>do\u003c/em> share the same birthday, Sally and I). But it \u003cem>is\u003c/em> a bit of a rant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've said it before and I will say it again, if you leave a (expletive) tip to a server, there had better be a good reason for it. If she is rude or hostile, don't leave one at all. If he screws up your order and blames everyone else, then disappears for a cigarette when you need to pay the check so you can get to the airport like you said you needed to at the beginning of the meal... stiff him-- he deserves it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But leaving $20 on a $500 bill to a waiter who has orchestrated your meal, told you when you are ordering too much, selected a wine for you that you absolutely rave about, and who makes you look good because your guests are all raving about their experience is an outrage. All the more so because that waiter can't say or do anything about it without losing his job. There is a special dining circle in hell reserved for just this kind of diner. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Not that I feel very strongly about it one way or the other, of course.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearly a year ago, I explained in detail \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/02/20/tipping-down-and-out/\">exactly what happens\u003c/a> in such an extreme case of (undeserved) bad tipping. I mention it again because I've just witnessed another co-worker be treated in the same manner on a similarly-sized check. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Granted, the above is an extreme case, but people are leaving $3 less here, $5 less there. It's alarming to those of us who earn our living depending upon the unreliable tipping habits of strangers. $3 might not sound like very much, but it is. If a server waits upon ten tables in a night and they all sought to save a little money by leaving $3 less, that's $30 out of a server's take home pay per shift. If a server works five shifts per week, that's $150 less. Per month? Around $600. Per year? I think you get the picture. I'm being conservative in my estimates. And remember, sales are typically down all over town, so a server's losses are frequently more when you consider that tips are based on sales.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you do need to cut down your dining expenses, don't take it out on the good servers. Of course, if you come into my restaurant and \u003cem>want\u003c/em> to spend a lot of money, make no mistake-- I'll help you spend it. You'll have a great time doing it, too. But if you come and \u003cem>don't\u003c/em> want to blow your whole pay check, I will go out of my way make sure you don't. I'm not going to make you feel like a cheapskate and you'll have just as good a time as the Fat Cats sitting next to you (if not better because, hey, you're more relaxed since you haven't just spent your rent money trying to impress your date).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the bill comes, be kind. Remember that I found you that beautiful bottle of wine from a region you've never tried before that was $20 less (and much better) than the one you were asking about. It made you look adventurous. Do keep in mind that I suggested our rib eye steak was big enough to feed the both of you. That made your dinner a little more intimate, didn't it? And when I served it all out table side? Ah, that was a nice touch, wasn't it? And when I sent you that dessert for no other reason than \"just because,\" well... perhaps you might bear in mind that I just cut about $50 off of your tab when you are leaving me a tip. Great waiters are worth their weight in gold. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My assumption here is that most of you reading this are savvy enough diners to not make your servers take one in the shorts. You are more than likely sophisticated enough to know good service when you experience it. Why do I know this? Because you're reading a food blog, that's why. I'm not saying it's you. Really. Except those of you who are invariably going to comment that I am being whiney or that I should \"get a real job\" (I've heard that one before). I'm saying it might just be your mother, or your husband, or your best friend, in which case I hope that you might pass this post along to them after you've given them a nice big hug and told them you love them, even though they are embarrassingly cheap.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The next time you go out to dinner and you've had a great meal and and even greater server, make sure he or she is taken care of. In the words of the mortal Canadian (and you know how Americans make fun of their tipping habits) pundit Nicholas Demeda, \"If you can afford to dine out, you can afford to tip well.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tipping for good service is the one place you should never cut corners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Watch \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/tv/programs/thisweek/watch/archive/226548/c\">This Week in Northern California\u003c/a> tonight, \u003cem>Friday January 29 at 8pm\u003c/em> to see \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/host-biography/\">Leslie Sbrocco\u003c/a>, host of \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.kqed.org/food/\">Check, Please! Bay Area\u003c/a> in a new segment on local food and wine trends. This week, a conversation about restaurants and the recession and underground food markets with Bay Area Bites bloggers, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/michael-procopio/\">Michael Procopio\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/author/stephanie-rosenbaum/\">Stephanie Rosenbaum\u003c/a>.\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/10085/cutting-corners-tipping-in-a-down-economy","authors":["5017"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_1865","bayareabites_1146","bayareabites_45","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1593"],"tags":["bayareabites_757","bayareabites_763","bayareabites_3388","bayareabites_1397","bayareabites_1147","bayareabites_1149"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_1182":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_1182","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"1182","score":null,"sort":[1213987523000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"tips-375-and-worth-every-penny","title":"Tips: $3.75 and Worth Every Penny","publishDate":1213987523,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/06/tip.jpg\" alt=\"tip\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today's post is directed at my waiter brethren, should there be any reading. The rest of you, of course, are most welcome to read.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other night, I waited on a rather handsome European couple. Spanish. First time in San Francisco. They were youngish, well-dressed, and very polite. They ordered wine, three courses of food, and bottled water. So far, so good. When I checked in with them at each course, they seemed happy. The temperature of their wine? Excellent-- they even thanked me for asking. My dessert suggestions? They took them and loved them. These were not menu-pointers, miming their way through a meal because they lacked the local language skills.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I brought them their check, they examined the bill, slipped in some cash and said, \"Thank you, that's fine,\" indicating that they would not need change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I examined the cash inside the bill folder. $130. Their meal was $126.25. I rushed to the bar and rather hurriedly asked one of our bartenders to make me some change, and quickly, because \"I'm about to get \"f---ed by table 10,\" I said. In front of my boss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I received the change and gently placed the remaining $3.75 back in the bill folder with the three little bills neatly peaking out of the corner back on their table. Perhaps, I thought, there had been a mistake in their calculation. They might examine the contents and increase the 2.97% tip they were unwittingly leaving me. During the next half hour, during which I refilled their waters, folded their napkins, and asked if they had suitable transportation home, they never re-examined the contents of the folder. As they stood up to leave, I felt the anger swelling up behind my eyes. But I smiled, tilted my head and knitted my brow in such a way that would indicate that I was slightly perplexed to the marginally perceptive, and said, \"Good night,\" with such a subtle questioning at the end of it I am uncertain as to whether typing a question mark is deserved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They didn't so much ignore me as act oblivious to my words. I thought the best thing for me to do was walk away before I did something foolish, like stick my foot out as they approached the steps to the exit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I stood by the hostess stand at the front door as they approached, giving them one more chance. I tried to obtain eye contact with the man, but he would not meet my eye. Instead, he held out his coat check. Fortunately, the hostess on duty took it before I had the opportunity to ignore his gesture or reply to it with one of my own. I followed her to the coat closet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Spit in it,\" I said. \"I think you should spit in his coat.\" I'm sure she thought I was joking. \"Or, at least, drop-kick it when you hand it to him.\" The sad thing is, I wasn't joking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, that moment at the coat check served as a little reality check for me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At our shift meeting earlier in the evening, my boss had warned us that summer was approaching. Our regular customers would be crowded out by out-of-towners, both of the American and foreign variety. Cranky travelers and people for whom American-style tipping was, well, a foreign concept. The announcement brought down the mood of the staff, but he was speaking the truth, and the point of his little speech was that we needed to basically suck it up and treat these new guests with the same warmth we treat our regulars. We needed to kill them with kindness, regardless of what kind of tips a Spaniard, German, or Canadian might leave. I briefly wondered which type of insecticide added to coffee would be considered kind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He was right, of course. So what was I angry about?:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. The money. My service merited at least another $20 in gratuity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. I let these two people get under my skin on the very night my boss had warned us, as though he had somehow jinxed me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. The fact that I let any guest get under my skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I consider myself fortunate in terms of my experience as a professional waiter. I work at a wonderful restaurant. It's upscale without being over-the-top, has a fun vibe, and is always packed with people-- it's not easy to get a last minute reservation, though we will bend over backwards to try to accommodate. The guests, by and large, are either affluent and willing to spend money or, at the very least, enthusiastic about dining with us. I almost never just wait on people, but act more like the host of a dinner party at every table in my station-- offering my suggestions, painting verbal pictures yet-to-be-seen food items, getting people to relax and open up. I work in a place where a handshake normally accompanies the \"good nights\", and a hug or even a kiss from the women is not at all uncommon. \"Goodbye\" is almost never said, but rather \"see you again, soon.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, normally, my tips reflect my service. Twenty percent is the norm, but twenty-five or thirty is not unusual, either. Am I spoiled? I don't think so. I work hard at what I do, and I am frankly very good at it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But I allowed the two idiots who gave me a 2.97% tip to get to me. I had tied my own sense of worth to money. $3.75, to be exact. It colored my outlook for the rest of the evening. Fortunately, they were my last table, so I brought no thundercloud to my other guests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I sometimes find working exclusively for tips a bit harrowing. There is a vagueness of income that is frustrating-- never knowing exactly how much one is going to earn in a month makes budgeting difficult. Waiters have nights when they're on fire and making money hand-over-fist, others when their sections are populated by women who bring photo albums with them and haven't seen each other in years-- splitting salads and making two hundred substitutions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that my income is wholly dependent upon how much a stranger feels I am worth is rather frightening if I stop to think about it for long. So I don't.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that I sometimes allow my own sense of worth to be determined by strangers is even worse. I feel validated when a group of business guys leaves an extra hundred dollars on top of an automatic 20% tip. I feel utterly deflated when Spaniards screw me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's crazy-making. I do the same thing every night with mostly rave reviews. Sometimes, I get the shaft. And in my calmer moments, I can shake it off easily.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the summer season is upon us, complete with the usual unprepared tourist who freeze their asses of in their shorts and hastily- Wharf-bought San Francisco sweatshirts in the middle of July. As a member of the hospitality industry, I need to remind myself that I cannot give lessons in tipping etiquette to the ignorant, but merely accept them as they are. I'm not a bad waiter if I receive a 2.97% tip, I'm a bad waiter if I am, well, \u003cem>inhospitable\u003c/em>. In the meantime, I'll have to accept the occasional bad tip along with all the good ones and dream of the day after Labor Day, when our summer really begins and the tourists go back to the non-tipping lands from which they came.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":null,"status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1213987594,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":25,"wordCount":1298},"headData":{"title":"Tips: $3.75 and Worth Every Penny | KQED","description":"Today's post is directed at my waiter brethren, should there be any reading. The rest of you, of course, are most welcome to read. The other night, I waited on a rather handsome European couple. Spanish. First time in San Francisco. They were youngish, well-dressed, and very polite. They ordered wine, three courses of food,","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Tips: $3.75 and Worth Every Penny","datePublished":"2008-06-20T18:45:23.000Z","dateModified":"2008-06-20T18:46:34.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"1182 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/06/20/tips-375-and-worth-every-penny/","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/06/20/tips-375-and-worth-every-penny/","disqusTitle":"Tips: $3.75 and Worth Every Penny","path":"/bayareabites/1182/tips-375-and-worth-every-penny","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/06/tip.jpg\" alt=\"tip\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today's post is directed at my waiter brethren, should there be any reading. The rest of you, of course, are most welcome to read.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The other night, I waited on a rather handsome European couple. Spanish. First time in San Francisco. They were youngish, well-dressed, and very polite. They ordered wine, three courses of food, and bottled water. So far, so good. When I checked in with them at each course, they seemed happy. The temperature of their wine? Excellent-- they even thanked me for asking. My dessert suggestions? They took them and loved them. These were not menu-pointers, miming their way through a meal because they lacked the local language skills.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I brought them their check, they examined the bill, slipped in some cash and said, \"Thank you, that's fine,\" indicating that they would not need change.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I examined the cash inside the bill folder. $130. Their meal was $126.25. I rushed to the bar and rather hurriedly asked one of our bartenders to make me some change, and quickly, because \"I'm about to get \"f---ed by table 10,\" I said. In front of my boss.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I received the change and gently placed the remaining $3.75 back in the bill folder with the three little bills neatly peaking out of the corner back on their table. Perhaps, I thought, there had been a mistake in their calculation. They might examine the contents and increase the 2.97% tip they were unwittingly leaving me. During the next half hour, during which I refilled their waters, folded their napkins, and asked if they had suitable transportation home, they never re-examined the contents of the folder. As they stood up to leave, I felt the anger swelling up behind my eyes. But I smiled, tilted my head and knitted my brow in such a way that would indicate that I was slightly perplexed to the marginally perceptive, and said, \"Good night,\" with such a subtle questioning at the end of it I am uncertain as to whether typing a question mark is deserved.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They didn't so much ignore me as act oblivious to my words. I thought the best thing for me to do was walk away before I did something foolish, like stick my foot out as they approached the steps to the exit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I stood by the hostess stand at the front door as they approached, giving them one more chance. I tried to obtain eye contact with the man, but he would not meet my eye. Instead, he held out his coat check. Fortunately, the hostess on duty took it before I had the opportunity to ignore his gesture or reply to it with one of my own. I followed her to the coat closet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Spit in it,\" I said. \"I think you should spit in his coat.\" I'm sure she thought I was joking. \"Or, at least, drop-kick it when you hand it to him.\" The sad thing is, I wasn't joking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, that moment at the coat check served as a little reality check for me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At our shift meeting earlier in the evening, my boss had warned us that summer was approaching. Our regular customers would be crowded out by out-of-towners, both of the American and foreign variety. Cranky travelers and people for whom American-style tipping was, well, a foreign concept. The announcement brought down the mood of the staff, but he was speaking the truth, and the point of his little speech was that we needed to basically suck it up and treat these new guests with the same warmth we treat our regulars. We needed to kill them with kindness, regardless of what kind of tips a Spaniard, German, or Canadian might leave. I briefly wondered which type of insecticide added to coffee would be considered kind.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He was right, of course. So what was I angry about?:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. The money. My service merited at least another $20 in gratuity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. I let these two people get under my skin on the very night my boss had warned us, as though he had somehow jinxed me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. The fact that I let any guest get under my skin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I consider myself fortunate in terms of my experience as a professional waiter. I work at a wonderful restaurant. It's upscale without being over-the-top, has a fun vibe, and is always packed with people-- it's not easy to get a last minute reservation, though we will bend over backwards to try to accommodate. The guests, by and large, are either affluent and willing to spend money or, at the very least, enthusiastic about dining with us. I almost never just wait on people, but act more like the host of a dinner party at every table in my station-- offering my suggestions, painting verbal pictures yet-to-be-seen food items, getting people to relax and open up. I work in a place where a handshake normally accompanies the \"good nights\", and a hug or even a kiss from the women is not at all uncommon. \"Goodbye\" is almost never said, but rather \"see you again, soon.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, normally, my tips reflect my service. Twenty percent is the norm, but twenty-five or thirty is not unusual, either. Am I spoiled? I don't think so. I work hard at what I do, and I am frankly very good at it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But I allowed the two idiots who gave me a 2.97% tip to get to me. I had tied my own sense of worth to money. $3.75, to be exact. It colored my outlook for the rest of the evening. Fortunately, they were my last table, so I brought no thundercloud to my other guests.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I sometimes find working exclusively for tips a bit harrowing. There is a vagueness of income that is frustrating-- never knowing exactly how much one is going to earn in a month makes budgeting difficult. Waiters have nights when they're on fire and making money hand-over-fist, others when their sections are populated by women who bring photo albums with them and haven't seen each other in years-- splitting salads and making two hundred substitutions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that my income is wholly dependent upon how much a stranger feels I am worth is rather frightening if I stop to think about it for long. So I don't.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The fact that I sometimes allow my own sense of worth to be determined by strangers is even worse. I feel validated when a group of business guys leaves an extra hundred dollars on top of an automatic 20% tip. I feel utterly deflated when Spaniards screw me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's crazy-making. I do the same thing every night with mostly rave reviews. Sometimes, I get the shaft. And in my calmer moments, I can shake it off easily.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the summer season is upon us, complete with the usual unprepared tourist who freeze their asses of in their shorts and hastily- Wharf-bought San Francisco sweatshirts in the middle of July. As a member of the hospitality industry, I need to remind myself that I cannot give lessons in tipping etiquette to the ignorant, but merely accept them as they are. I'm not a bad waiter if I receive a 2.97% tip, I'm a bad waiter if I am, well, \u003cem>inhospitable\u003c/em>. In the meantime, I'll have to accept the occasional bad tip along with all the good ones and dream of the day after Labor Day, when our summer really begins and the tourists go back to the non-tipping lands from which they came.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/1182/tips-375-and-worth-every-penny","authors":["5017"],"categories":["bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_1148","bayareabites_14759","bayareabites_1147","bayareabites_1149","bayareabites_533"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? 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On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. 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