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An epicurean tour guide for \u003ca href=\"http://edibleexcursions.net/\">Edible Excursions\u003c/a>, Sarah is the voice behind the blog \u003ca href=\"http://lettuceeatkale.com/\">Lettuce Eat Kale\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/lettuceeatkale\">tweets\u003c/a> under that moniker too.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/3fcd7301e44f9b621f8c9fc7ad678ac7?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"lettuceeatkale","facebook":"pages/Lettuce-Eat-Kale/239312194611","instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Sarah Henry | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/3fcd7301e44f9b621f8c9fc7ad678ac7?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/3fcd7301e44f9b621f8c9fc7ad678ac7?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/sarahhenry"},"nprfood":{"type":"authors","id":"5403","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5403","found":true},"name":"NPR Food","firstName":"NPR Food","lastName":null,"slug":"nprfood","email":"nprfood@kqed.org","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Food and Health-related stories from NPR including NPR Radio; NPR's food blog, \"The Salt\"; NPR's Health News blog, \"Shots\"; NPR's Breaking News blog \"The Two-Way\"; NPR's global stories blog \"Goats and Soda,\" NPR's economy explainer \"Planet Money\"; food-related technology news from NPR's \"All Tech Considered\"; and food series \"Kitchen Window.\"","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/c4b735bb26404fa18ce2447d32e64291?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"nprfood","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"NPR Food | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/c4b735bb26404fa18ce2447d32e64291?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/c4b735bb26404fa18ce2447d32e64291?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/nprfood"},"7x7bayarea":{"type":"authors","id":"11590","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"11590","found":true},"name":"7x7 Bay Area","firstName":"7x7 Bay Area","lastName":null,"slug":"7x7bayarea","email":"edit@7x7.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Founded in 2001, 7x7 is an independently owned and totally authentic guide to life in the San Francisco Bay Area. Our 24/7 online resource serves up stories on the best food and drink, arts and culture, style and design, hikes and wellness, regional travel, and more. Visit us anytime at \u003ca href=\"https://www.7x7.com/\">7x7.com\u003c/a>, and also find us on \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/7x7/\">Facebook\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/7x7bayarea/\">Instagram\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/7x7\">Twitter\u003c/a>. Plus, subscribe to our podcast, \u003ca href=\"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/7x7-bay-area-people-will-talk/id1444756628\">\"People Will Talk,\"\u003c/a> for insightful interviews with Bay Area luminaries; you'll find it on iTunes and wherever you get your podcasts.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/1084e0a66476f14f77589475632b61a7?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]}],"headData":{"title":"7x7 Bay Area | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/1084e0a66476f14f77589475632b61a7?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/1084e0a66476f14f77589475632b61a7?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/7x7bayarea"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_133827":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_133827","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"133827","score":null,"sort":[1559588246000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"trial-opens-against-chef-thomas-keller-his-3-star-eateries","title":"Discrimination Trial Begins Against French Laundry Chef Thomas Keller","publishDate":1559588246,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>[aside tag='thomas-keller' label='More on Thomas Keller']\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A former employee of celebrated chef Thomas Keller is suing him and his three-star Michelin restaurants — Per Se in New York and the French Laundry in Yountville — for discrimination, saying she was denied a job transfer and ultimately let go because she was pregnant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vanessa Scott-Allen is seeking $5 million in damages for allegations that include sex discrimination and violation of pregnancy disability leave and says she hopes her trial, which starts Monday, will draw attention to a “culture of misogyny in fine dining,” said her attorney, Carla Minnard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This is one of the last bastions where it is OK for women to be discriminated against,” Minnard said ahead of the trial in Napa County Superior Court. She said the case will highlight antiquated traditions in the fine dining world where men are favored for high-paying “front of the house” jobs and seen as more suitable to interact with high-paying guests. In the case of Scott-Allen, “they found out she was pregnant and figured out a way to backpedal on” a job transfer, she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keller is named as an individual defendant because he owns and controls the two restaurants. A Thomas Keller Restaurant Group spokesman, Pierre Rougier, said the company cannot comment on pending litigation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scott-Allen, 28, was hired at Per Se in 2011 as a kitchen server who plated food. She was promoted through the ranks until she was named a “captain” or head waiter at the restaurant, where set menus start at $355 per person and she earned a six-digit salary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the lawsuit, she visited the French Laundry in January 2016 during a vacation to California with her husband and told General Manager Michael Minnillo they were considering a move out West. Minnillo told her the French Laundry “would love” to have her work there, the lawsuit says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scott-Allen returned to New York and hammered out details of moving to the California restaurant, eventually filling out the company’s internal transfer form in February 2016 and agreeing to start her new position that April, the lawsuit says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the interim, she learned she was pregnant and informed her bosses, who discussed it on company email.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Apparently she is pregnant,” Minnillo wrote in a March 1, 2016, email to the company’s head of human resources, cited in court filings. “She never mentioned this to me. I am confused how to proceed.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Well, unfortunately not much we can do,” Julie Secviar, head of HR for the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group, replied in an email, cited in court filings. “What was committed verbally or in writing?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scott-Allen’s lawsuit alleges that Secviar and Minnillo devised a plan to get rid of her by setting up a “sham interview” that would result in her being declared “not the right fit” for the French Laundry. Minnard said Minnillo admitted to the plan during a deposition. Minnillo and the two restaurants are named as defendants in the lawsuit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On March 7, 2016, Scott-Allen was asked to sign a “Notice of Resignation” that management told her was a standard part of the transfer process, but her attorney says was a way to “dupe her into quitting.” As a result of resigning, Scott-Allen lost her health insurance and was unable to see doctors for first-trimester check-ups, the lawsuit says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On March 10, Scott-Allen’s last day of work at Per Se, the restaurant’s internal bulletin published a picture of Keller hugging Scott-Allen with a message: “Thank you Vanessa! May your warmth, grace and impact shine just as brightly at TFL (the French Laundry) as it has here.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In early April, she went to meet French Laundry managers and was asked about her pregnancy, including if she felt she could do her job while pregnant, how much leave she planned to take and when she expected to stop working, the lawsuit says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within a week, Minnillo told her “there is no position for you” and that he never intended to hire her. In a formal letter April 12, 2016, Minnillo and Secviar told her they were unable to offer her a job.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"A former employee of celebrated chef Thomas Keller is suing him and his three-star Michelin restaurants for discrimination.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1559595145,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":18,"wordCount":745},"headData":{"title":"Discrimination Trial Begins Against French Laundry Chef Thomas Keller | KQED","description":"A former employee of celebrated chef Thomas Keller is suing him and his three-star Michelin restaurants for discrimination.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Discrimination Trial Begins Against French Laundry Chef Thomas Keller","datePublished":"2019-06-03T18:57:26.000Z","dateModified":"2019-06-03T20:52:25.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"133827 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=133827","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/06/03/trial-opens-against-chef-thomas-keller-his-3-star-eateries/","disqusTitle":"Discrimination Trial Begins Against French Laundry Chef Thomas Keller","nprByline":"Jocelyn Gecker, Associated Press","path":"/bayareabites/133827/trial-opens-against-chef-thomas-keller-his-3-star-eateries","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"thomas-keller","label":"More on Thomas Keller "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A former employee of celebrated chef Thomas Keller is suing him and his three-star Michelin restaurants — Per Se in New York and the French Laundry in Yountville — for discrimination, saying she was denied a job transfer and ultimately let go because she was pregnant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vanessa Scott-Allen is seeking $5 million in damages for allegations that include sex discrimination and violation of pregnancy disability leave and says she hopes her trial, which starts Monday, will draw attention to a “culture of misogyny in fine dining,” said her attorney, Carla Minnard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“This is one of the last bastions where it is OK for women to be discriminated against,” Minnard said ahead of the trial in Napa County Superior Court. She said the case will highlight antiquated traditions in the fine dining world where men are favored for high-paying “front of the house” jobs and seen as more suitable to interact with high-paying guests. In the case of Scott-Allen, “they found out she was pregnant and figured out a way to backpedal on” a job transfer, she said.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keller is named as an individual defendant because he owns and controls the two restaurants. A Thomas Keller Restaurant Group spokesman, Pierre Rougier, said the company cannot comment on pending litigation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scott-Allen, 28, was hired at Per Se in 2011 as a kitchen server who plated food. She was promoted through the ranks until she was named a “captain” or head waiter at the restaurant, where set menus start at $355 per person and she earned a six-digit salary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to the lawsuit, she visited the French Laundry in January 2016 during a vacation to California with her husband and told General Manager Michael Minnillo they were considering a move out West. Minnillo told her the French Laundry “would love” to have her work there, the lawsuit says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scott-Allen returned to New York and hammered out details of moving to the California restaurant, eventually filling out the company’s internal transfer form in February 2016 and agreeing to start her new position that April, the lawsuit says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the interim, she learned she was pregnant and informed her bosses, who discussed it on company email.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Apparently she is pregnant,” Minnillo wrote in a March 1, 2016, email to the company’s head of human resources, cited in court filings. “She never mentioned this to me. I am confused how to proceed.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“Well, unfortunately not much we can do,” Julie Secviar, head of HR for the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group, replied in an email, cited in court filings. “What was committed verbally or in writing?”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scott-Allen’s lawsuit alleges that Secviar and Minnillo devised a plan to get rid of her by setting up a “sham interview” that would result in her being declared “not the right fit” for the French Laundry. Minnard said Minnillo admitted to the plan during a deposition. Minnillo and the two restaurants are named as defendants in the lawsuit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On March 7, 2016, Scott-Allen was asked to sign a “Notice of Resignation” that management told her was a standard part of the transfer process, but her attorney says was a way to “dupe her into quitting.” As a result of resigning, Scott-Allen lost her health insurance and was unable to see doctors for first-trimester check-ups, the lawsuit says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On March 10, Scott-Allen’s last day of work at Per Se, the restaurant’s internal bulletin published a picture of Keller hugging Scott-Allen with a message: “Thank you Vanessa! May your warmth, grace and impact shine just as brightly at TFL (the French Laundry) as it has here.”\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In early April, she went to meet French Laundry managers and was asked about her pregnancy, including if she felt she could do her job while pregnant, how much leave she planned to take and when she expected to stop working, the lawsuit says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Within a week, Minnillo told her “there is no position for you” and that he never intended to hire her. In a formal letter April 12, 2016, Minnillo and Secviar told her they were unable to offer her a job.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/133827/trial-opens-against-chef-thomas-keller-his-3-star-eateries","authors":["byline_bayareabites_133827"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_15155","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_14775","bayareabites_16429","bayareabites_3787"],"featImg":"bayareabites_133835","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_132634":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_132634","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"132634","score":null,"sort":[1550868589000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"first-taste-a-native-oaxacan-chef-takes-the-helm-at-thomas-kellers-la-calenda","title":"First Taste: A native Oaxacan chef takes the helm at Thomas Keller's La Calenda","publishDate":1550868589,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>by Jess Lander\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci>Chef Thomas Keller trades escargot and frites for fresh-pressed tortillas and mole at his new Mexican joint \u003ca href=\"lacalendamex.com\">La Calenda\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Opened in the space once home to Hurley's restaurant, La Calenda shares the same couple blocks as Keller's French Laundry, Bouchon Bistro, Bouchon Bakery, and Ad Hoc—but that's about all it has in common with its Yountville comrades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132636\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132636\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4.jpg\" alt=\"Copper penny tiling on the bar top.\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Copper penny tiling on the bar top. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>The Vibe\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Focused on authentic Mexican cuisine, La Calenda radiates the joyful spirit of the traditional Oaxacan festivities for which it's named. This isn't buttoned-up fine dining; casual and family-friendly, the servers wear T-shirts and the staff is so nice it's as if they spike the air with tequila. Loud Mexican music emanates from the speakers, but even that gets drowned out by lively conversations between diners. A dinner bell that hangs from the open kitchen is rung periodically and frivolously, simply because it's fun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pink-walled restaurant has the look of a traditional taqueria, but this is Napa Valley, so it's rustic-chic, not a dive. Much of the decor was handpicked from Mexico, down to the hand-blown glassware and mismatched wooden chairs. A hand-painted mural brightens the bar area that seats 14; the bar top has a unique copper penny tiling. A large outdoor patio is set to flourish post-winter but for now, 86 seats fill the dining room and there's been a line out the door each night since the place opened at the start of the new year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132641\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132641\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-5.jpg\" alt=\"La Calenda serves up a handful of large plates, like Puerco en Mole Verde.\" width=\"980\" height=\"1470\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-5.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-5-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-5-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-5-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Calenda serves up a handful of large plates, like Puerco en Mole Verde. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the heart of the restaurant is a large open kitchen. Diners can watch the culinary team hand-press tortillas—they press between 700 and 900 each day—and slice al pastor from a spinning rotisserie.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Chef\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Chef de Cuisine Kaelin Ulrich Trilling didn't come up the ranks of Keller's world. The idea of working for the decorated chef, let alone heading up one of his restaurants, was a mere pipe dream for the 26-year-old, who grew up in Oaxaca. His mother Susana Trilling, a celebrity chef in her own right, founded the renowned Seasons of My Heart Cooking School in Oaxaca and Trilling draws inspiration from several of her recipes, like the much talked about mole negro, an arduous, three-day process that utilizes roughly 30 ingredients and five types of chiles. \"When I make mole here and taste it, I close my eyes and it brings me back to my childhood every time,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most challenging part of the gig has been adapting Mexican cooking techniques to America's health department standards. Back home, Trilling makes mole with a bamboo stick and barbacoa is ceremoniously cooked all day in giant pits in the ground. At La Calenda he attempts to recreate the pit in the oven, wrapping the meat in avocado leaves and cooking it at 500 degrees for hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132637\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132637\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-1-1.jpg\" alt=\"Four different types of heirloom corn brought in from Mexico.\" width=\"980\" height=\"792\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-1-1.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-1-1-160x129.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-1-1-800x647.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-1-1-768x621.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Four different types of heirloom corn brought in from Mexico. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>The Food\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Like the decor, a majority of ingredients come directly from Mexico, including many types of heirloom corn—from blue to red to pink—sourced from varying regions. The team will also pluck herbs and produce from The French Laundry Culinary Garden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trilling has a story for every ingredient and every dish. Even the Caesar Salad, which seems out of place, has ties to Mexico: Legend has it that an Italian immigrant invented the recipe in Tijuana. Ironically, chips and salsa are actually an American tradition, but since stateside diners expect it, Trilling says he wants his to be the best. La Calenda serves six salsas total, my favorites being the habanero, which was well balanced and not as hot as one might expect, and avocado.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starting off strong, the cachete de res en mole chichilo ($13)—braised beef cheek and another one of Trilling's mother's recipes—and the quesadilla al pastor ($9), a taqueria staple in Mexico made here with pineapple and Chihuahua cheese, were both standouts of the meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I tried all six tacos ($11-13 for two). The barbacoa and carnitas top my list; both meats were melt-in-your-mouth tender. With the exception of the Caesar salad croutons and desserts, the entire menu is gluten-free and there are plenty of vegetarian options as well, including a butternut squash tamale wrapped in an avocado leaf ($6) and mushroom tacos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132639\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132639\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-3-1.jpg\" alt=\"The menu features two types of tamals, one with butternut squash.\" width=\"980\" height=\"1470\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-3-1.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-3-1-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-3-1-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-3-1-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu features two types of tamals, one with butternut squash. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For dessert ($9), you can't go wrong with the churros or the tres leches cake, which for once, isn't too dry. The rice pudding has a nice surprise in the form of a mango sauce at the bottom. Mix it all up before you eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132638\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132638\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-2-1.jpg\" alt=\"Churros are a dessert staple at La Calenda.\" width=\"980\" height=\"1470\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-2-1.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-2-1-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-2-1-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-2-1-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Churros are a dessert staple at La Calenda. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>The Drinks\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>La Calenda has collected more than 30 mezcals and tequilas used throughout a large cocktail menu ($12-$14) and curated a Mexican-heavy wine list—it is likely the most comprehensive wine list you've ever seen at a Mexican restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Admittedly, the La Calenda margarita wasn't my favorite. A little too sweet for my taste, it features pineapple agave syrup that really dominates the drink, but it does come in an Instagrammable piña cup. There is, of course, a classic margarita, which you can order by the pitcher for $50.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132640\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132640\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-1.jpg\" alt=\"The Tahona Sol is a reinvention of the classic Tequila Sunrise.\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-1.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-1-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Tahona Sol is a reinvention of the classic Tequila Sunrise. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The spicy Fenix (Reposado tequila, jalapeño-infused syrup, mango, lime, and tamarind soda) and the Tahona Sol left lasting impressions. The latter was touted as a play on a Tequila Sunrise, but I think that actually does this cocktail a disservice. Switching out OJ for tangerine juice and hibiscus, it's a great reinvention of the overrated (IMO) concoction that gained popularity in the '70s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Calenda is open daily, 5-11pm and does not take reservations. At some point in February, they will open for lunch as well from 11am to 5pm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.7x7.com/-1-2626773823.html\">7x7 Bay Area\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Chef Thomas Keller trades escargot and frites for fresh-pressed tortillas and mole at his new Mexican joint La Calenda.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1550868589,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":1055},"headData":{"title":"First Taste: A native Oaxacan chef takes the helm at Thomas Keller's La Calenda | KQED","description":"Chef Thomas Keller trades escargot and frites for fresh-pressed tortillas and mole at his new Mexican joint La Calenda.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"First Taste: A native Oaxacan chef takes the helm at Thomas Keller's La Calenda","datePublished":"2019-02-22T20:49:49.000Z","dateModified":"2019-02-22T20:49:49.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"132634 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=132634","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/02/22/first-taste-a-native-oaxacan-chef-takes-the-helm-at-thomas-kellers-la-calenda/","disqusTitle":"First Taste: A native Oaxacan chef takes the helm at Thomas Keller's La Calenda","path":"/bayareabites/132634/first-taste-a-native-oaxacan-chef-takes-the-helm-at-thomas-kellers-la-calenda","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>by Jess Lander\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci>Chef Thomas Keller trades escargot and frites for fresh-pressed tortillas and mole at his new Mexican joint \u003ca href=\"lacalendamex.com\">La Calenda\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Opened in the space once home to Hurley's restaurant, La Calenda shares the same couple blocks as Keller's French Laundry, Bouchon Bistro, Bouchon Bakery, and Ad Hoc—but that's about all it has in common with its Yountville comrades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132636\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132636\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4.jpg\" alt=\"Copper penny tiling on the bar top.\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Copper penny tiling on the bar top. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>The Vibe\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Focused on authentic Mexican cuisine, La Calenda radiates the joyful spirit of the traditional Oaxacan festivities for which it's named. This isn't buttoned-up fine dining; casual and family-friendly, the servers wear T-shirts and the staff is so nice it's as if they spike the air with tequila. Loud Mexican music emanates from the speakers, but even that gets drowned out by lively conversations between diners. A dinner bell that hangs from the open kitchen is rung periodically and frivolously, simply because it's fun.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The pink-walled restaurant has the look of a traditional taqueria, but this is Napa Valley, so it's rustic-chic, not a dive. Much of the decor was handpicked from Mexico, down to the hand-blown glassware and mismatched wooden chairs. A hand-painted mural brightens the bar area that seats 14; the bar top has a unique copper penny tiling. A large outdoor patio is set to flourish post-winter but for now, 86 seats fill the dining room and there's been a line out the door each night since the place opened at the start of the new year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132641\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132641\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-5.jpg\" alt=\"La Calenda serves up a handful of large plates, like Puerco en Mole Verde.\" width=\"980\" height=\"1470\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-5.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-5-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-5-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-5-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">La Calenda serves up a handful of large plates, like Puerco en Mole Verde. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At the heart of the restaurant is a large open kitchen. Diners can watch the culinary team hand-press tortillas—they press between 700 and 900 each day—and slice al pastor from a spinning rotisserie.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>The Chef\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Chef de Cuisine Kaelin Ulrich Trilling didn't come up the ranks of Keller's world. The idea of working for the decorated chef, let alone heading up one of his restaurants, was a mere pipe dream for the 26-year-old, who grew up in Oaxaca. His mother Susana Trilling, a celebrity chef in her own right, founded the renowned Seasons of My Heart Cooking School in Oaxaca and Trilling draws inspiration from several of her recipes, like the much talked about mole negro, an arduous, three-day process that utilizes roughly 30 ingredients and five types of chiles. \"When I make mole here and taste it, I close my eyes and it brings me back to my childhood every time,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The most challenging part of the gig has been adapting Mexican cooking techniques to America's health department standards. Back home, Trilling makes mole with a bamboo stick and barbacoa is ceremoniously cooked all day in giant pits in the ground. At La Calenda he attempts to recreate the pit in the oven, wrapping the meat in avocado leaves and cooking it at 500 degrees for hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132637\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132637\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-1-1.jpg\" alt=\"Four different types of heirloom corn brought in from Mexico.\" width=\"980\" height=\"792\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-1-1.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-1-1-160x129.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-1-1-800x647.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-1-1-768x621.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Four different types of heirloom corn brought in from Mexico. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>The Food\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>Like the decor, a majority of ingredients come directly from Mexico, including many types of heirloom corn—from blue to red to pink—sourced from varying regions. The team will also pluck herbs and produce from The French Laundry Culinary Garden.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trilling has a story for every ingredient and every dish. Even the Caesar Salad, which seems out of place, has ties to Mexico: Legend has it that an Italian immigrant invented the recipe in Tijuana. Ironically, chips and salsa are actually an American tradition, but since stateside diners expect it, Trilling says he wants his to be the best. La Calenda serves six salsas total, my favorites being the habanero, which was well balanced and not as hot as one might expect, and avocado.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Starting off strong, the cachete de res en mole chichilo ($13)—braised beef cheek and another one of Trilling's mother's recipes—and the quesadilla al pastor ($9), a taqueria staple in Mexico made here with pineapple and Chihuahua cheese, were both standouts of the meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I tried all six tacos ($11-13 for two). The barbacoa and carnitas top my list; both meats were melt-in-your-mouth tender. With the exception of the Caesar salad croutons and desserts, the entire menu is gluten-free and there are plenty of vegetarian options as well, including a butternut squash tamale wrapped in an avocado leaf ($6) and mushroom tacos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132639\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132639\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-3-1.jpg\" alt=\"The menu features two types of tamals, one with butternut squash.\" width=\"980\" height=\"1470\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-3-1.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-3-1-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-3-1-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-3-1-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The menu features two types of tamals, one with butternut squash. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For dessert ($9), you can't go wrong with the churros or the tres leches cake, which for once, isn't too dry. The rice pudding has a nice surprise in the form of a mango sauce at the bottom. Mix it all up before you eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132638\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132638\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-2-1.jpg\" alt=\"Churros are a dessert staple at La Calenda.\" width=\"980\" height=\"1470\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-2-1.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-2-1-160x240.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-2-1-800x1200.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-2-1-768x1152.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Churros are a dessert staple at La Calenda. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>The Drinks\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>La Calenda has collected more than 30 mezcals and tequilas used throughout a large cocktail menu ($12-$14) and curated a Mexican-heavy wine list—it is likely the most comprehensive wine list you've ever seen at a Mexican restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Admittedly, the La Calenda margarita wasn't my favorite. A little too sweet for my taste, it features pineapple agave syrup that really dominates the drink, but it does come in an Instagrammable piña cup. There is, of course, a classic margarita, which you can order by the pitcher for $50.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_132640\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 980px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-132640\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-1.jpg\" alt=\"The Tahona Sol is a reinvention of the classic Tequila Sunrise.\" width=\"980\" height=\"653\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-1.jpg 980w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/02/980x-4-1-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 980px) 100vw, 980px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Tahona Sol is a reinvention of the classic Tequila Sunrise. \u003ccite>(David Escalante)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The spicy Fenix (Reposado tequila, jalapeño-infused syrup, mango, lime, and tamarind soda) and the Tahona Sol left lasting impressions. The latter was touted as a play on a Tequila Sunrise, but I think that actually does this cocktail a disservice. Switching out OJ for tangerine juice and hibiscus, it's a great reinvention of the overrated (IMO) concoction that gained popularity in the '70s.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Calenda is open daily, 5-11pm and does not take reservations. At some point in February, they will open for lunch as well from 11am to 5pm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>This article originally appeared on \u003ca href=\"https://www.7x7.com/-1-2626773823.html\">7x7 Bay Area\u003c/a>.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/132634/first-taste-a-native-oaxacan-chef-takes-the-helm-at-thomas-kellers-la-calenda","authors":["11590"],"categories":["bayareabites_11028","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_15155","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_10"],"tags":["bayareabites_3328","bayareabites_16307","bayareabites_758","bayareabites_16045","bayareabites_3472","bayareabites_3787"],"featImg":"bayareabites_132635","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_85057":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_85057","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"85057","score":null,"sort":[1405871513000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"not-my-job-french-laundry-chef-thomas-keller-gets-quizzed-on-actual-laundry","title":"Not My Job: French Laundry Chef Thomas Keller Gets Quizzed On Actual Laundry","publishDate":1405871513,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85058\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/ap04020504434_enl-56dfcbd0d7a5f206ed7ebc6b2065aadcb8af887a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/ap04020504434_enl-56dfcbd0d7a5f206ed7ebc6b2065aadcb8af887a.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Thomas Keller checks out preparations in the kitchen of his New York restaurant, Per Se, in the Time Warner Center, in February 2004. Photo: Richard Drew/AP\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1286\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85058\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Thomas Keller checks out preparations in the kitchen of his New York restaurant, Per Se, in the Time Warner Center, in February 2004. Photo: Richard Drew/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Show\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/07/19/332570027/not-my-job-french-laundry-chef-thomas-keller-gets-quizzed-on-actual-laundry\">Wait Wait...Don't Tell Me\u003c/a> (July 18, 2014) [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/waitwait/2014/07/20140719_waitwait_04.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Twenty years ago, chef Thomas Keller bought a little restaurant in Napa Valley called The French Laundry and transformed it into one of the finest restaurants in the country. He's inspired countless other chefs, consulted on the film \u003cem>Ratatouille\u003c/em>, opened other award-winning restaurants, and convinced people to pay $100 for a corn pudding appetizer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We've invited Keller to play a game called \"Light starch, on hangers please, and I'll need it Wednesday.\" Keller has done pretty well running a business called The French Laundry, but how many clothes has he cleaned? We'll ask him three questions about actual laundry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Transcript :\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>PETER SAGAL, HOST: \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And now the game where we like to ask people who do amazing things to try their hand at something rather mundane. Twenty years ago exactly, Chef Thomas Keller bought a little restaurant in Napa, California called the French Laundry and transformed it into the finest restaurant in the country. He's inspired countless other chefs. He consulted on the film \"Ratatouille.\" He opened other award-winning restaurants and convinced people to pay $100 for a corn pudding appetizer. Thomas Keller, welcome to WAIT WAIT ...DON'T TELL ME.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(APPLAUSE)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>THOMAS KELLER: It's good to be here. Thank you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(APPLAUSE)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: But...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: But...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: But, wait.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: But wait, what?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Wait. We have something for you. There you go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>BILL KURTIS, BYLINE: Wow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>ROY BLOUNT JR: Oh, man. Look at that\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>BOBCAT GOLDTHWAIT: For the folks at home, the entire audience is getting food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: While the other guys...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>BLOUNT JR: You started out with one loaf and one fish and look at this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>BLOUNT JR: It's amazing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: While we're getting everything handed out to the panelists, what do we have here?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: You are holding the coronet of Atlantic salmon...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Yeah.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: With creme fraiche and sweet onions, sweet red onions inside. And so basically what it is for all intensive purpose - it's a cracker with sour cream and salmon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: And I should say that what this looks like is a tiny little ice cream cone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>GOLDTHWAIT: Can I get jimmies on this?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>BLOUNT JR: It's awfully good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Oh, my god.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Does it taste like what I just described? A cracker with sour cream and salmon, right?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>BLOUNT JR: The salmon is delightful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>GOLDTHWAIT: I have to say though, like, they're really tiny.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: OK, but this is actually a great way - thank you, by the way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Oh, you're welcome. A little refresher. You guys needed something.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: We did.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: You were starting to die down a little bit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: We were flagging. I'm sure with a morsel of food that big we can go another four or five minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: I have a couple of questions for you. First of all, is that something you serve at your restaurant?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: We service it to every guest that comes to our restaurant, yes. We have served it to every guest that comes to the restaurant for the past 20 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Really?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Yes, and if you add Per Se to that, that's 11 years. So that's 31 years of serving the coronet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Per Se is your award-winning restaurant in New York.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: In New York, correct.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Right, OK. Now, I want to - because this is actually wonderful, even though the audience couldn't see or...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: I'm sorry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: ...I pity them - taste it. This is - is this, would you say, typical of your approach to food - it is basically a little ice cream cone made of salmon, cream, cracker, you even made little chive jimmies. And this is all to make a tiny little bite of food and we're not even to the stuff you charge people for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: But it's one of the most important parts of the meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: And why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: I knew you were going to ask why - because it's a way of opening up. Somebody comes to the restaurant, they're at the French Laundry or they're at Per Se, and, you know, sometimes those kind of restaurants can be a little intimidating, right. And so we want to kind of break the ice. And what better way to break the ice then to give them something that looks like an ice cream cone. If you don't smile at that, then you have no sense of humor whatsoever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Right. And so not only does it make them smile, right, breaks down that intimidation, but then they eat it and because it has reference points because it taste like something they've had before - a cracker with sour cream and salmon - they like it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: I want to back up a little bit. So you bought this restaurant, it was a preexistent restaurant, the French Laundry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Correct.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: In Napa, California, about 20 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: That's right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: And at that time, I'm sure, it was more of a traditional restaurant - you ordered some food, the food came, you ate it, you left. But you brought this approach to food where it's more of a theatrical production. You go in and, if I understand correctly, you pay a lot of money, but it's fixed - what it is - and you just bring out a secession of dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Correct.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: And each of them are like that, they're brilliant little composed, extraordinary little sculptural things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Well, you know, we try to base our food on the law of diminishing return, right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: OK.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: The more you have of something, the less you like it. So we want to give you just enough that when you've had that last bite, you go, god, I wish I had a little more. And then you say, no, you can't have anymore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: And then we bring out the next dish because at that moment when you've had that last bite and you say you want a little more, that's the moment when it's been a perfect experience for that food. And the next dish comes out and we hope to achieve the same thing, so by the time you've gone through this 10, 11, 12 or 13 courses, of course your appetite has been satisfied. You've had a great express over a three-hour period, a three-and-a-half-hour period depending on how many people you're with. So the one thing I always recommend is come to the French Laundry or Per Se with somebody you like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Because if you come with somebody you don't like, you're going to be in big trouble.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Because you're spending a lot of time with them. Aren't you then - you're inviting people to spend hundreds of dollars to come in and spend hours just getting tiny bites of things that leave them just wanting a little bit more, and you work so hard at this, aren't you approaching your ideal of getting people to come spend all day, give you thousands of dollars and get nothing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: And leave happy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>ROXANNE ROBERTS: You said that people are sometimes intimidated when they come - what was the most intimidated that you've ever been in serving someone?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: You know, I think we got a little nervous when Julia Child walked in. And she walked in the back door and into the kitchen and walked over to the chef de partie on the meat and wanted to know what he was doing. And she just kind of cruised around the kitchen. But after you get to know them and - you know, they just want to have good food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>GOLDTHWAIT: Did you eventually get locks for that backdoor?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>BLOUNT JR: Why do you call it the French Laundry?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: I didn't call it the French Laundry. I bought the restaurant. It was open in 1977 and it was called - the building was called the French Laundry because actually there was a French laundry at one time in its history. And so it just stayed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>GOLDTHWAIT: So wait, the French were washing their clothes?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: I was heard in an interview with Steven Spielberg where he said whenever he sees somebody else's movie, he has to sit there with a stone face because if he grimaces or looks bored everybody will be talking about, oh, my God, Steven Spielberg doesn't like it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Sure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Have you ever been in a restaurant or at a friend's house for a meal and it's been awful and you say to yourself I cannot say a word, I cannot indicate anything, I have to clean my plate 'cause otherwise people will talk about how Thomas Keller didn't like it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Yes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: But not in somebody's home because most people always cook something that they're comfortable with.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: And if they're comfortable it, they usually do a good job. When you go out to dinner sometimes to some young chefs, you know, and they want to impress you, right. You're, you know, Thomas Keller or - and they're coming to your restaurant they want to make sure that they, you know, pull out all the stops. And sometimes it can be a little bit problematic, you know. Sometimes the portions are a little bit too big and, you know, you had 20 of them and it's like, you know, OK.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Have you ever, like, put food in your napkin and hid it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Have you ever, like, put your head back and tried to swallow like a bird getting down a big bug.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: No, no. It's never been - it's never been quite that bad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: OK. Glad to hear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Yes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: And we're free Thursday if you want to come over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Thomas Keller, we are delighted you're here, not just because you brought us food, but, Thomas Keller, we've invited you here to play a game we're calling...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KURTIS: \"Light starch, on hangers please, and I'll need it Wednesday.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: You've done pretty well running this business called the French Laundry, but how many clothes have you cleaned? That's what we figured. Very few. So we're going to ask you three questions about actual laundries. Get two correct, you'll win our prize for one of our listeners - Carl's voice on their home voicemail. Bill, who is Chef Keller playing for?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KURTIS: Amanda Peck of San Francisco, California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(APPLAUSE)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Ready to play, chef?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: I'm ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: All right. Here's your first question - sometimes it's a good idea to not launder your clothes. To not wonder close so you can make use of which of these - A, the brief safe, a place to store your cash and valuables that looks like a pair of dirty underwear so no burglar would ever touch it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: B, the CIA headquarter's new entry system identifies you by swabbing your shirt for your unique BO or stink print. Or C, you want to where a Banana Republic's new American Oxford that comes pre-stained with barbecue sauce so you can't ruin it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: One of these exists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: I would say A.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: You're going to go A, the brief safe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: The brief safe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: You are correct.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(SOUNDBITE OF BELL)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Can you buy this thing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(APPLAUSE)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: We looked at pictures in the internet, it is failsafe, nobody will ever touch this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: That's very good. Laundromats can be exciting places. Which of these is a real headline from the Montana Standard back in 2005 - A, Klan leader fails to separate, announces pink robes are in this year. B, leprechaun robs Front Street laundry. C, man trapped in laundry machine says, quote, it wasn't bad until the spin cycle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: So you have the spin cycle, you have the leprechaun and you have the Klan member.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Right. Actual headline in the Montana Standard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: A.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: You're going to go for A, Klan leader?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Yeah.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: No, it was actually leprechaun. This was on St. Patrick's Day. The robber was wearing a fake black beard, mustache, black plastic derby hat and green kilt. Said the clerk in Butte, Montana - Butte gets pretty crazy on St. Patrick's Day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: All right. We have three courses, we've had two. You have one to go. If you get this one right, you'll win a prize. Some people really, really, really care about their laundries in which of these cases - A, at the end of each week of filming, the cast of the film \"Captain America\" all washed their customs on star Chris Evans' washboard abs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: B, Lady Gaga created her own mystique seven spice detergent formula for washing her meat dress.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Or C, First Lady Bess Truman insisted on mailing her clothes back to Kansas City from Washington for washing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: I would say C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: You'd go for C?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(APPLAUSE)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: This is true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(SOUNDBITE OF BELL)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Bill, how did Thomas Keller do on our quiz?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KURTIS: He got 2 out of 3, that's a winner in my book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(APPLAUSE)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Thomas Keller is a chef, a restaurateur, the author of many cookbooks. You can eat his foot at the French Laundry near San Francisco and Per Se in New York or also in Las Vegas, but good luck getting a reservation. Thomas Keller, thank you so much for joining us. What a pleasure to talk to you, chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Thank you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(APPLAUSE)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Chef Keller, ladies and gentlemen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(APPLAUSE) Transcript provided by NPR, Copyright NPR.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\n\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Keller has done pretty well running a restaurant called The French Laundry, but how many clothes has he cleaned? We'll find out on Wait Wait...Don't Tell Me.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1405873658,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":156,"wordCount":2425},"headData":{"title":"Not My Job: French Laundry Chef Thomas Keller Gets Quizzed On Actual Laundry | KQED","description":"Keller has done pretty well running a restaurant called The French Laundry, but how many clothes has he cleaned? We'll find out on Wait Wait...Don't Tell Me.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Not My Job: French Laundry Chef Thomas Keller Gets Quizzed On Actual Laundry","datePublished":"2014-07-20T15:51:53.000Z","dateModified":"2014-07-20T16:27:38.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"85057 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=85057","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/07/20/not-my-job-french-laundry-chef-thomas-keller-gets-quizzed-on-actual-laundry/","disqusTitle":"Not My Job: French Laundry Chef Thomas Keller Gets Quizzed On Actual Laundry","nprStoryId":"332570027","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=332570027&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/2014/07/19/332570027/not-my-job-french-laundry-chef-thomas-keller-gets-quizzed-on-actual-laundry?ft=3&f=332570027","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Sat, 19 Jul 2014 12:10:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Fri, 18 Jul 2014 20:34:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Sat, 19 Jul 2014 12:07:50 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/waitwait/2014/07/20140719_waitwait_04.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1052&aggIds=5163715&ft=3&f=332570027","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1332880794-bad1ec.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1052&aggIds=5163715&ft=3&f=332570027","path":"/bayareabites/85057/not-my-job-french-laundry-chef-thomas-keller-gets-quizzed-on-actual-laundry","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/waitwait/2014/07/20140719_waitwait_04.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_85058\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/ap04020504434_enl-56dfcbd0d7a5f206ed7ebc6b2065aadcb8af887a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/07/ap04020504434_enl-56dfcbd0d7a5f206ed7ebc6b2065aadcb8af887a.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Thomas Keller checks out preparations in the kitchen of his New York restaurant, Per Se, in the Time Warner Center, in February 2004. Photo: Richard Drew/AP\" width=\"2000\" height=\"1286\" class=\"size-full wp-image-85058\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Thomas Keller checks out preparations in the kitchen of his New York restaurant, Per Se, in the Time Warner Center, in February 2004. Photo: Richard Drew/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Show\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/07/19/332570027/not-my-job-french-laundry-chef-thomas-keller-gets-quizzed-on-actual-laundry\">Wait Wait...Don't Tell Me\u003c/a> (July 18, 2014) \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/waitwait/2014/07/20140719_waitwait_04.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Twenty years ago, chef Thomas Keller bought a little restaurant in Napa Valley called The French Laundry and transformed it into one of the finest restaurants in the country. He's inspired countless other chefs, consulted on the film \u003cem>Ratatouille\u003c/em>, opened other award-winning restaurants, and convinced people to pay $100 for a corn pudding appetizer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We've invited Keller to play a game called \"Light starch, on hangers please, and I'll need it Wednesday.\" Keller has done pretty well running a business called The French Laundry, but how many clothes has he cleaned? We'll ask him three questions about actual laundry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Transcript :\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>PETER SAGAL, HOST: \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And now the game where we like to ask people who do amazing things to try their hand at something rather mundane. Twenty years ago exactly, Chef Thomas Keller bought a little restaurant in Napa, California called the French Laundry and transformed it into the finest restaurant in the country. He's inspired countless other chefs. He consulted on the film \"Ratatouille.\" He opened other award-winning restaurants and convinced people to pay $100 for a corn pudding appetizer. Thomas Keller, welcome to WAIT WAIT ...DON'T TELL ME.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(APPLAUSE)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>THOMAS KELLER: It's good to be here. Thank you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(APPLAUSE)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: But...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: But...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: But, wait.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: But wait, what?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Wait. We have something for you. There you go.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>BILL KURTIS, BYLINE: Wow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>ROY BLOUNT JR: Oh, man. Look at that\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>BOBCAT GOLDTHWAIT: For the folks at home, the entire audience is getting food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: While the other guys...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>BLOUNT JR: You started out with one loaf and one fish and look at this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>BLOUNT JR: It's amazing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: While we're getting everything handed out to the panelists, what do we have here?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: You are holding the coronet of Atlantic salmon...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Yeah.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: With creme fraiche and sweet onions, sweet red onions inside. And so basically what it is for all intensive purpose - it's a cracker with sour cream and salmon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: And I should say that what this looks like is a tiny little ice cream cone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>GOLDTHWAIT: Can I get jimmies on this?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>BLOUNT JR: It's awfully good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Oh, my god.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Does it taste like what I just described? A cracker with sour cream and salmon, right?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>BLOUNT JR: The salmon is delightful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>GOLDTHWAIT: I have to say though, like, they're really tiny.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: OK, but this is actually a great way - thank you, by the way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Oh, you're welcome. A little refresher. You guys needed something.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: We did.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: You were starting to die down a little bit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: We were flagging. I'm sure with a morsel of food that big we can go another four or five minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: I have a couple of questions for you. First of all, is that something you serve at your restaurant?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: We service it to every guest that comes to our restaurant, yes. We have served it to every guest that comes to the restaurant for the past 20 years.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Really?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Yes, and if you add Per Se to that, that's 11 years. So that's 31 years of serving the coronet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Per Se is your award-winning restaurant in New York.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: In New York, correct.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Right, OK. Now, I want to - because this is actually wonderful, even though the audience couldn't see or...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: I'm sorry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: ...I pity them - taste it. This is - is this, would you say, typical of your approach to food - it is basically a little ice cream cone made of salmon, cream, cracker, you even made little chive jimmies. And this is all to make a tiny little bite of food and we're not even to the stuff you charge people for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: But it's one of the most important parts of the meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: And why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Why?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: I knew you were going to ask why - because it's a way of opening up. Somebody comes to the restaurant, they're at the French Laundry or they're at Per Se, and, you know, sometimes those kind of restaurants can be a little intimidating, right. And so we want to kind of break the ice. And what better way to break the ice then to give them something that looks like an ice cream cone. If you don't smile at that, then you have no sense of humor whatsoever.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Right. And so not only does it make them smile, right, breaks down that intimidation, but then they eat it and because it has reference points because it taste like something they've had before - a cracker with sour cream and salmon - they like it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: I want to back up a little bit. So you bought this restaurant, it was a preexistent restaurant, the French Laundry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Correct.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: In Napa, California, about 20 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: That's right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: And at that time, I'm sure, it was more of a traditional restaurant - you ordered some food, the food came, you ate it, you left. But you brought this approach to food where it's more of a theatrical production. You go in and, if I understand correctly, you pay a lot of money, but it's fixed - what it is - and you just bring out a secession of dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Correct.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: And each of them are like that, they're brilliant little composed, extraordinary little sculptural things.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Well, you know, we try to base our food on the law of diminishing return, right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: OK.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: The more you have of something, the less you like it. So we want to give you just enough that when you've had that last bite, you go, god, I wish I had a little more. And then you say, no, you can't have anymore.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: And then we bring out the next dish because at that moment when you've had that last bite and you say you want a little more, that's the moment when it's been a perfect experience for that food. And the next dish comes out and we hope to achieve the same thing, so by the time you've gone through this 10, 11, 12 or 13 courses, of course your appetite has been satisfied. You've had a great express over a three-hour period, a three-and-a-half-hour period depending on how many people you're with. So the one thing I always recommend is come to the French Laundry or Per Se with somebody you like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Because if you come with somebody you don't like, you're going to be in big trouble.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Because you're spending a lot of time with them. Aren't you then - you're inviting people to spend hundreds of dollars to come in and spend hours just getting tiny bites of things that leave them just wanting a little bit more, and you work so hard at this, aren't you approaching your ideal of getting people to come spend all day, give you thousands of dollars and get nothing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: And leave happy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>ROXANNE ROBERTS: You said that people are sometimes intimidated when they come - what was the most intimidated that you've ever been in serving someone?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: You know, I think we got a little nervous when Julia Child walked in. And she walked in the back door and into the kitchen and walked over to the chef de partie on the meat and wanted to know what he was doing. And she just kind of cruised around the kitchen. But after you get to know them and - you know, they just want to have good food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>GOLDTHWAIT: Did you eventually get locks for that backdoor?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>BLOUNT JR: Why do you call it the French Laundry?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: I didn't call it the French Laundry. I bought the restaurant. It was open in 1977 and it was called - the building was called the French Laundry because actually there was a French laundry at one time in its history. And so it just stayed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>GOLDTHWAIT: So wait, the French were washing their clothes?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: I was heard in an interview with Steven Spielberg where he said whenever he sees somebody else's movie, he has to sit there with a stone face because if he grimaces or looks bored everybody will be talking about, oh, my God, Steven Spielberg doesn't like it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Sure.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Have you ever been in a restaurant or at a friend's house for a meal and it's been awful and you say to yourself I cannot say a word, I cannot indicate anything, I have to clean my plate 'cause otherwise people will talk about how Thomas Keller didn't like it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Yes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: But not in somebody's home because most people always cook something that they're comfortable with.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Right.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: And if they're comfortable it, they usually do a good job. When you go out to dinner sometimes to some young chefs, you know, and they want to impress you, right. You're, you know, Thomas Keller or - and they're coming to your restaurant they want to make sure that they, you know, pull out all the stops. And sometimes it can be a little bit problematic, you know. Sometimes the portions are a little bit too big and, you know, you had 20 of them and it's like, you know, OK.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Have you ever, like, put food in your napkin and hid it?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Have you ever, like, put your head back and tried to swallow like a bird getting down a big bug.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: No, no. It's never been - it's never been quite that bad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: OK. Glad to hear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Yes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: And we're free Thursday if you want to come over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Thomas Keller, we are delighted you're here, not just because you brought us food, but, Thomas Keller, we've invited you here to play a game we're calling...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KURTIS: \"Light starch, on hangers please, and I'll need it Wednesday.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: You've done pretty well running this business called the French Laundry, but how many clothes have you cleaned? That's what we figured. Very few. So we're going to ask you three questions about actual laundries. Get two correct, you'll win our prize for one of our listeners - Carl's voice on their home voicemail. Bill, who is Chef Keller playing for?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KURTIS: Amanda Peck of San Francisco, California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(APPLAUSE)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Ready to play, chef?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: I'm ready.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: All right. Here's your first question - sometimes it's a good idea to not launder your clothes. To not wonder close so you can make use of which of these - A, the brief safe, a place to store your cash and valuables that looks like a pair of dirty underwear so no burglar would ever touch it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: B, the CIA headquarter's new entry system identifies you by swabbing your shirt for your unique BO or stink print. Or C, you want to where a Banana Republic's new American Oxford that comes pre-stained with barbecue sauce so you can't ruin it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: One of these exists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: I would say A.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: You're going to go A, the brief safe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: The brief safe.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: You are correct.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(SOUNDBITE OF BELL)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Can you buy this thing?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(APPLAUSE)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: We looked at pictures in the internet, it is failsafe, nobody will ever touch this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: That's very good. Laundromats can be exciting places. Which of these is a real headline from the Montana Standard back in 2005 - A, Klan leader fails to separate, announces pink robes are in this year. B, leprechaun robs Front Street laundry. C, man trapped in laundry machine says, quote, it wasn't bad until the spin cycle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: So you have the spin cycle, you have the leprechaun and you have the Klan member.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Right. Actual headline in the Montana Standard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: A.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: You're going to go for A, Klan leader?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Yeah.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: No, it was actually leprechaun. This was on St. Patrick's Day. The robber was wearing a fake black beard, mustache, black plastic derby hat and green kilt. Said the clerk in Butte, Montana - Butte gets pretty crazy on St. Patrick's Day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: All right. We have three courses, we've had two. You have one to go. If you get this one right, you'll win a prize. Some people really, really, really care about their laundries in which of these cases - A, at the end of each week of filming, the cast of the film \"Captain America\" all washed their customs on star Chris Evans' washboard abs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: B, Lady Gaga created her own mystique seven spice detergent formula for washing her meat dress.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(LAUGHTER)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Or C, First Lady Bess Truman insisted on mailing her clothes back to Kansas City from Washington for washing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: I would say C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: You'd go for C?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(APPLAUSE)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: This is true.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(SOUNDBITE OF BELL)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Bill, how did Thomas Keller do on our quiz?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KURTIS: He got 2 out of 3, that's a winner in my book.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(APPLAUSE)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Thomas Keller is a chef, a restaurateur, the author of many cookbooks. You can eat his foot at the French Laundry near San Francisco and Per Se in New York or also in Las Vegas, but good luck getting a reservation. Thomas Keller, thank you so much for joining us. What a pleasure to talk to you, chef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>KELLER: Thank you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(APPLAUSE)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SAGAL: Chef Keller, ladies and gentlemen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(APPLAUSE) Transcript provided by NPR, Copyright NPR.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\n\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/85057/not-my-job-french-laundry-chef-thomas-keller-gets-quizzed-on-actual-laundry","authors":["5403"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_334","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_286","bayareabites_3787","bayareabites_13591"],"featImg":"bayareabites_85058","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_73561":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_73561","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"73561","score":null,"sort":[1383929885000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"spinning-plates-documentary-comes-to-the-bay-area-a-film-about-restaurants-food-family-and-legacy","title":"\"Spinning Plates\" Documentary Comes to the Bay Area - A Film about Restaurants, Food, Family and Legacy ","publishDate":1383929885,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>[vimeo 74899921]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Restaurants, food, family and legacy: all are part of \u003ca href=\"http://www.spinningplatesmovie.com/\">\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Spinning Plates\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, a new film opening in the Bay Area on Friday, November 8 at Landmark’s Opera Plaza Cinemas in San Francisco, and Landmark’s Shattuck Cinemas in Berkeley. This documentary explores three different restaurants: \u003ca href=\"https://content.alinearestaurant.com/html/index.html\">\u003cstrong>Alinea\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in Chicago run by chef Grant Achatz (with a few good verbal morsels on restaurant life from Thomas Keller—a coupe); \u003ca href=\"http://www.breitbachscountrydining.com/\">\u003cstrong>Breitbach’s\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, a 150-year-old family restaurant in Balltown, Iowa that has endured much turmoil only to continue to be the literal living room for a small community; and \u003cstrong>La Cocina de Gabby\u003c/strong>, a Tucson, Arizona Mexican restaurant run by a family trying to break even, hold onto their home, and make a better life for their young daughter. Themes around food and dining are explored in able fashion from start to finish onscreen, and viewers will come away with a strengthened sense of why we want to eat together... it is often about wanting to be taken care of at the most basic level.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery link=\"file\" ids=\"73621,73616,73620\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Filmmaker \u003ca href=\"http://www.spinningplatesmovie.com/filmmakers/index.html\">Joseph Levy\u003c/a> is the film's writer, director, producer and editor who worked on the highly acclaimed short film \u003cem>George Lucas In Love\u003c/em>. Levy has also created, written, produced and directed numerous series, pilots and specials for television networks. He produced the independent feature film \u003cem>Last Man Running\u003c/em> as well as the reality/documentary series \u003cem>Into The Fire\u003c/em> for the Food Network. Bay Area Bites caught up with Levy recently and his comments have been edited for clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73623\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/SpinningPlates_joseph-levy.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/SpinningPlates_joseph-levy.jpg\" alt=\"Director Joseph Levy (center) interviews Mike Breitbach. Photo courtesy of Spinning Plates\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73623\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Director Joseph Levy (center) interviews Mike Breitbach. Photo courtesy of Spinning Plates\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What was it like to research this documentary? It has such a personal feel and covers restaurants and themes around family, legacy, passion and survival.\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Levy:\u003c/strong> Most of the research happened throughout the course of my life. I looked for three restaurants that were very familiar to me -- a fine dining restaurant, a community restaurant, and a small ethnic restaurant struggling to stay open. They're all types of restaurants I've loved and I thought these incredibly different snapshots would allow me to show something greater than any one alone would. Alinea was a choice for the film from the start since I had featured Grant in my first Food Network show, \u003cem>Into The Fire\u003c/em>, back in 2003. Breitbach's was a relatively quick find since they had made news about the fire and the community coming together to rebuild. But Gabby's was a difficult find that took many eating trips and many hours of searching. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are some of the different reasons people go out to eat?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Levy:\u003c/strong> Dining experiences can be so different from person to person or meal to meal. Reasons can vary from convenience and necessity on the one end to wanting to have a memorable experience and be entertained on the other. Some meals are an afterthought, some meals are unforgettable, but I think almost all meals out involve an aspect of being nurtured and taken care of. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the different reasons folks open and run restaurants—even knowing it means long days, and missing things like weddings and sports games with their own families?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Levy:\u003c/strong> Again, I think the reasons for opening a restaurant are numerous and incredibly varied. In \u003cem>Spinning Plates\u003c/em> alone, we show a chef driven to elevate food into art, a family in the business because of a six-generation legacy, and another family who does it to survive and keep the family fed. In all cases, there's a passion and perseverance evident -- it's never easy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: The economy, illness and foreclosures are shown here—further highlighting the tough reasons for running a restaurant as well as the customers who support it. What are your thoughts on this?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Levy:\u003c/strong> Food shows on TV can sometimes make you think that being a chef is all about balancing restaurants, cookbooks, TV shows and celebrity cooking challenges. There aren't a lot of stories about people struggling to save their homes and restaurants, or even chefs fighting for their lives. There's a big difference between a reality show and reality, and when you take a look at the latter, every aspect of life is on the table -- even the ones that don't necessarily make for a good television series. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Charlie Trotter is mentioned -- all the more poignant given his passing this week. What do you think Grant Achatz would say about that?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Levy:\u003c/strong> I think Grant would say the same thing I and many others are saying about Charlie Trotter: he was a giant figure in the culinary history of America and paved the way for so many others. He truly leaves behind a legacy that will long be remembered. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73628\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/SpinningPlates_thomaskeller.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/SpinningPlates_thomaskeller.jpg\" alt=\"Director Joseph Levy prepares Chef Thomas Keller for his interview. Photo courtesy of Spinning Plates\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73628\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Director Joseph Levy prepares Chef Thomas Keller for his interview. Photo courtesy of Spinning Plates\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: The topic of legacy comes up from high-end restaurant folks: Grant Achatz and Thomas Keller, but the other two restaurant families seem to have that in mind as well. How does legacy and family play out in this film?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Levy:\u003c/strong> It's everything in this film. And it might be a surprise that issues of legacy, family and mortality play out in a movie about restaurants, but that's a very important aspect of \u003cem>Spinning Plates\u003c/em> -- food can mean so much and this movie is about people for whom it couldn't mean more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What was the biggest surprise for you doing the project?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Levy: \u003c/strong>How moved people are by the film. That, of course, was my hope, but you never know if the emotions you have as a filmmaker towards your subject are shared by others. I think these three stories really resonate with people because they're tied together by universal threads that are common to us all. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How does the chef as artist and food as art work for Grant Achatz? Do you think that is exclusive to fancier spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Levy: \u003c/strong>Grant uses food to convey flavor, aesthetic, story and emotion. It becomes a means of expression. I think it might be more common to find that thoughtfulness and artistry in a high-end restaurant, but I've certainly found it in other unexpected places. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Breitbach’s is a phenomenon that is all the more surprising given how small the town is. Why do you think they are able to remain so strong?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Levy:\u003c/strong> Because the restaurant is more than restaurant to the town -- it's a community center and in a way it belongs to the town. When the restaurant was in danger of going away, the town wouldn't let it die because they felt the town would die with it. It's really a beautiful relationship. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What's next for you?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Levy:\u003c/strong> Despite the fact that I've been proclaiming for a year that \u003cem>Spinning Plates\u003c/em> is my last statement in the world of food, I'm now actually developing a scripted feature (fiction film) that takes place in the food world, but from a very different perspective. I guess I feel there's still more for me to say. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Why do we go out to eat? Why do people start restaurants--an admittedly grueling effort? A new documentary called \u003cem>Spinning Plates\u003c/em> explores themes of food, family and legacy, and there's appearances from Thomas Keller, Grant Achatz, as well as looks behind the scenes for Gabby's in Arizona and Breitbach's in Iowa. Mary Ladd interviews director Joseph Levy about his new film.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1383952948,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":true,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":true,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":1228},"headData":{"title":"\"Spinning Plates\" Documentary Comes to the Bay Area - A Film about Restaurants, Food, Family and Legacy | KQED","description":"Why do we go out to eat? Why do people start restaurants--an admittedly grueling effort? A new documentary called Spinning Plates explores themes of food, family and legacy, and there's appearances from Thomas Keller, Grant Achatz, as well as looks behind the scenes for Gabby's in Arizona and Breitbach's in Iowa. Mary Ladd interviews director Joseph Levy about his new film.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"\"Spinning Plates\" Documentary Comes to the Bay Area - A Film about Restaurants, Food, Family and Legacy ","datePublished":"2013-11-08T16:58:05.000Z","dateModified":"2013-11-08T23:22:28.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"73561 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=73561","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/11/08/spinning-plates-documentary-comes-to-the-bay-area-a-film-about-restaurants-food-family-and-legacy/","disqusTitle":"\"Spinning Plates\" Documentary Comes to the Bay Area - A Film about Restaurants, Food, Family and Legacy ","path":"/bayareabites/73561/spinning-plates-documentary-comes-to-the-bay-area-a-film-about-restaurants-food-family-and-legacy","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"vimeo","attributes":{"named":{"label":"74899921"},"numeric":["74899921"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Restaurants, food, family and legacy: all are part of \u003ca href=\"http://www.spinningplatesmovie.com/\">\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Spinning Plates\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, a new film opening in the Bay Area on Friday, November 8 at Landmark’s Opera Plaza Cinemas in San Francisco, and Landmark’s Shattuck Cinemas in Berkeley. This documentary explores three different restaurants: \u003ca href=\"https://content.alinearestaurant.com/html/index.html\">\u003cstrong>Alinea\u003c/strong>\u003c/a> in Chicago run by chef Grant Achatz (with a few good verbal morsels on restaurant life from Thomas Keller—a coupe); \u003ca href=\"http://www.breitbachscountrydining.com/\">\u003cstrong>Breitbach’s\u003c/strong>\u003c/a>, a 150-year-old family restaurant in Balltown, Iowa that has endured much turmoil only to continue to be the literal living room for a small community; and \u003cstrong>La Cocina de Gabby\u003c/strong>, a Tucson, Arizona Mexican restaurant run by a family trying to break even, hold onto their home, and make a better life for their young daughter. Themes around food and dining are explored in able fashion from start to finish onscreen, and viewers will come away with a strengthened sense of why we want to eat together... it is often about wanting to be taken care of at the most basic level.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"link":"file","ids":"73621,73616,73620","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Filmmaker \u003ca href=\"http://www.spinningplatesmovie.com/filmmakers/index.html\">Joseph Levy\u003c/a> is the film's writer, director, producer and editor who worked on the highly acclaimed short film \u003cem>George Lucas In Love\u003c/em>. Levy has also created, written, produced and directed numerous series, pilots and specials for television networks. He produced the independent feature film \u003cem>Last Man Running\u003c/em> as well as the reality/documentary series \u003cem>Into The Fire\u003c/em> for the Food Network. Bay Area Bites caught up with Levy recently and his comments have been edited for clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73623\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/SpinningPlates_joseph-levy.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/SpinningPlates_joseph-levy.jpg\" alt=\"Director Joseph Levy (center) interviews Mike Breitbach. Photo courtesy of Spinning Plates\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73623\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Director Joseph Levy (center) interviews Mike Breitbach. Photo courtesy of Spinning Plates\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What was it like to research this documentary? It has such a personal feel and covers restaurants and themes around family, legacy, passion and survival.\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Levy:\u003c/strong> Most of the research happened throughout the course of my life. I looked for three restaurants that were very familiar to me -- a fine dining restaurant, a community restaurant, and a small ethnic restaurant struggling to stay open. They're all types of restaurants I've loved and I thought these incredibly different snapshots would allow me to show something greater than any one alone would. Alinea was a choice for the film from the start since I had featured Grant in my first Food Network show, \u003cem>Into The Fire\u003c/em>, back in 2003. Breitbach's was a relatively quick find since they had made news about the fire and the community coming together to rebuild. But Gabby's was a difficult find that took many eating trips and many hours of searching. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are some of the different reasons people go out to eat?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Levy:\u003c/strong> Dining experiences can be so different from person to person or meal to meal. Reasons can vary from convenience and necessity on the one end to wanting to have a memorable experience and be entertained on the other. Some meals are an afterthought, some meals are unforgettable, but I think almost all meals out involve an aspect of being nurtured and taken care of. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What are the different reasons folks open and run restaurants—even knowing it means long days, and missing things like weddings and sports games with their own families?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Levy:\u003c/strong> Again, I think the reasons for opening a restaurant are numerous and incredibly varied. In \u003cem>Spinning Plates\u003c/em> alone, we show a chef driven to elevate food into art, a family in the business because of a six-generation legacy, and another family who does it to survive and keep the family fed. In all cases, there's a passion and perseverance evident -- it's never easy. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: The economy, illness and foreclosures are shown here—further highlighting the tough reasons for running a restaurant as well as the customers who support it. What are your thoughts on this?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Levy:\u003c/strong> Food shows on TV can sometimes make you think that being a chef is all about balancing restaurants, cookbooks, TV shows and celebrity cooking challenges. There aren't a lot of stories about people struggling to save their homes and restaurants, or even chefs fighting for their lives. There's a big difference between a reality show and reality, and when you take a look at the latter, every aspect of life is on the table -- even the ones that don't necessarily make for a good television series. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Charlie Trotter is mentioned -- all the more poignant given his passing this week. What do you think Grant Achatz would say about that?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Levy:\u003c/strong> I think Grant would say the same thing I and many others are saying about Charlie Trotter: he was a giant figure in the culinary history of America and paved the way for so many others. He truly leaves behind a legacy that will long be remembered. \u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73628\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1000px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/SpinningPlates_thomaskeller.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/SpinningPlates_thomaskeller.jpg\" alt=\"Director Joseph Levy prepares Chef Thomas Keller for his interview. Photo courtesy of Spinning Plates\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73628\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Director Joseph Levy prepares Chef Thomas Keller for his interview. Photo courtesy of Spinning Plates\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: The topic of legacy comes up from high-end restaurant folks: Grant Achatz and Thomas Keller, but the other two restaurant families seem to have that in mind as well. How does legacy and family play out in this film?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Levy:\u003c/strong> It's everything in this film. And it might be a surprise that issues of legacy, family and mortality play out in a movie about restaurants, but that's a very important aspect of \u003cem>Spinning Plates\u003c/em> -- food can mean so much and this movie is about people for whom it couldn't mean more. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What was the biggest surprise for you doing the project?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Levy: \u003c/strong>How moved people are by the film. That, of course, was my hope, but you never know if the emotions you have as a filmmaker towards your subject are shared by others. I think these three stories really resonate with people because they're tied together by universal threads that are common to us all. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: How does the chef as artist and food as art work for Grant Achatz? Do you think that is exclusive to fancier spots?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Levy: \u003c/strong>Grant uses food to convey flavor, aesthetic, story and emotion. It becomes a means of expression. I think it might be more common to find that thoughtfulness and artistry in a high-end restaurant, but I've certainly found it in other unexpected places. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: Breitbach’s is a phenomenon that is all the more surprising given how small the town is. Why do you think they are able to remain so strong?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Levy:\u003c/strong> Because the restaurant is more than restaurant to the town -- it's a community center and in a way it belongs to the town. When the restaurant was in danger of going away, the town wouldn't let it die because they felt the town would die with it. It's really a beautiful relationship. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites: What's next for you?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Levy:\u003c/strong> Despite the fact that I've been proclaiming for a year that \u003cem>Spinning Plates\u003c/em> is my last statement in the world of food, I'm now actually developing a scripted feature (fiction film) that takes place in the food world, but from a very different perspective. I guess I feel there's still more for me to say. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/73561/spinning-plates-documentary-comes-to-the-bay-area-a-film-about-restaurants-food-family-and-legacy","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_1146","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_1593","bayareabites_316"],"tags":["bayareabites_12676","bayareabites_12669","bayareabites_12675","bayareabites_12668","bayareabites_3787"],"featImg":"bayareabites_73615","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_59722":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_59722","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"59722","score":null,"sort":[1365795124000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"iacp-in-san-francisco-conference-highlights-and-awards","title":"IACP in San Francisco: Conference Highlights and Awards","publishDate":1365795124,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/ThomasKeller640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/ThomasKeller640-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Thomas Keller at IACP Awards in San Francisco.\" alt=\"Thomas Keller at IACP Awards in San Francisco. Photo: Gamma Nine via IACP\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59846\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/AliceWaters_MYan.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/AliceWaters_MYan-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Alice Waters and Martin Yan at IACP Awards in San Francisco.\" alt=\"Alice Waters and Martin Yan at IACP Awards in San Francisco. Photo: Gamma Nine via IACP\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59835\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/joanneweir640-use.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/joanneweir640-use-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Joanne Weir at IACP Awards in San Francisco.\" alt=\"Joanne Weir at IACP Awards in San Francisco. Photo: Gamma Nine via IACP\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59842\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Phan_Angkana500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Phan_Angkana500-190x190.jpg\" title=\"IACP award winner Chef Charles Phan with his wife Angkana Kurutach.\" alt=\"IACP award winner Chef Charles Phan with his wife Angkana Kurutach. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59844\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/IrvinLinwins500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/IrvinLinwins500-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Irvin Lin with his IACP award.\" alt=\"Irvin Lin with his IACP award. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59839\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Joel_riddell_ChefJohn560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Joel_riddell_ChefJohn560-190x190.jpg\" title=\"IACP Award winner Joel Riddell with Chef John Mitzewich.\" alt=\"IACP Award winner Joel Riddell with Chef John Mitzewich. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59843\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We wish this one was televised, too: \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/03/08/alice-waters-on-chez-panisse-fire-video/\">Alice Waters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/01/27/martin-yan-m-y-china-vietnam-travels-and-chinese-new-year/\">Martin Yan\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.joanneweir.com/index.php\">Joanne Weir\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://virginiawillis.com/\">Virginia Willis\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.newmansownorganics.com/nells_corner_bio.html\">Nell Newman\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Rick_Bayless\">Rick Bayless\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Chef_Keller\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/charles-phan/\">Charles Phan\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.talk910.com/pages/diningaround.html\">Joel Riddell\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatthelove.com/\">Irvin Lin\u003c/a> were among the folks who took the stage for Tuesday night’s 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.iacp.com/\">International Association of Culinary Professionals\u003c/a> (IACP) awards ceremony in San Francisco. \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodcommunityculture.org/\">Oakland Food Connection\u003c/a> and food incubator \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a> were also honored. IACP's professional awards are widely viewed in the food world as something of a gold standard for cookbooks, food writing, digital media and culinary tours. The awards marked the closing night of the organization’s 35th annual conference, which went with a “\u003ca href=\"http://www.iacp.com/attend/more/2013_conference_theme\">Dirt to Digital\u003c/a>” theme this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Check out the full \u003ca href=\"http://www.iacp.com/documents/IACP_AwardsFinalists_2013.pdf\">list of award finalists\u003c/a> and the grand \u003ca href=\"https://www.iacp.com/documents/IACP35_AwardWinners_2013_FINAL.pdf\">list of winners\u003c/a>. While the awards ceremony stretched out over a few hours and was oddly lacking \u003cem>any\u003c/em> form of culinary nourishment (there were definite rumblings after the ceremony about that), it offered quirks, songs and even a few dick jokes courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.libbiesummers.com/\">Libbie Summers\u003c/a>, whose \u003ca href=\"http://www.saltedandstyled.com/\">Salted and Styled\u003c/a> blog won for Best Culinary Blog. On the other end of the spectrum, the evening kicked off with all guests looking up and saying “thank you” as a dedication to publisher \u003ca href=\"http://www.workman.com/blog/2013/04/peter-workman-10191938-472013/\">Peter Workman\u003c/a>, who passed away just this week. It was also emotional for Lifetime Achievement Award winner \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/AliceWaters\">Alice Waters\u003c/a>, who gratefully accepted her prize and joked in her speech that while she cannot farm, “I am a picker,” which got the audience laughing--wise words from the founder of \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"http://edibleschoolyard.org/\">Edible Schoolyard\u003c/a>. Waters also professed her admiration for cooking teachers because: “I cannot teach.” She immediately went on to acknowledge IACP attendee and stalwart \u003ca href=\"http://www.cookingisfun.ie/pages/\">Darina Allen\u003c/a>, whose Ballymaloe cooking school she visits every year (for her birthday).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/04/an-interview-with-charles-phan-author-of-vietnamese-home-cooking/\">Charles Phan\u003c/a> won in the Chefs and Restaurants cookbook category for his “Vietnamese Home Cooking” (co-authored with \u003ca href=\"http://www.tastingtable.com/press_release/internal/7740/Jessica_Battilana_Senior_Editor.htm\">Tasting Table\u003c/a> Senior Editor Jessica Battilana), he confessed that he did not have a speech but had enjoyed some bourbon to presumably get warmed up. Phan thanked Battilana, his agent and wife, Angkana. “My wife made sure I turned the book manuscript in, so I wouldn’t have to return the book advance money to Ten Speed Press.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Jerusalem-A-Cookbook-Yotam-Ottolenghi/dp/1607743949\">Jerusalem: A Cookbook\u003c/a>” by Yotam Ottolenghi, Sami Tamimi, received the award for Cookbook of the Year, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodpolitics.com/about/\">Marion Nestle\u003c/a> garnered a prize in the Food Matters category for her weighty tome, “Why Calories Count: From Science to Politics.” The deeply satisfying sugar-rush images in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Bouchon-Bakery-Thomas-Keller/dp/1579654355/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1365787021&sr=1-1&keywords=Bouchon+Bakery\">Bouchon Bakery\u003c/a> cookbook garnered an award for Food Photography and Styling, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.talk910.com/pages/diningaround.html\">Dining Around with Joel Riddell\u003c/a> radio show won in the Long Format Audio category. The team at \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/08/17/publish-like-a-local-nion-mcevoy-and-chronicle-books/\">Chronicle Books\u003c/a> may still be celebrating given their author Diane Morgan won for her book, \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Roots-Definitive-Compendium-more-Recipes/dp/0811878376/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1365786976&sr=1-1&keywords=Roots%3A+The+Definitive+Compendium+with+more+than+225+Recipes.\">Roots: The Definitive Compendium with more than 225 Recipes.\u003c/a>\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Culinary Tour Operator of the Year went to \u003ca href=\"http://www.copitarestaurant.com/\">Copita\u003c/a> chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.joanneweir.com/index.php\">Joanne Weir\u003c/a>, who shared that as a child, she told her father that she wanted to be a bus driver, so that she could drive a bus on every road in the world. Her confession seemed to scare him a little. Weir dedicated her prize to him because he passed away last year. Food blogger Irvin Lin won the Best in Show prize for his photography, and he asked the IACP crowd to “hire me, I'm available,\" a sentiment which was echoed by the next winner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The conference itself is that rare chance to possibly figure out how to eke out a living doing things in the culinary field--it can be exciting but also daunting in the number of possibilities it presents. There were various declarations for members to support each other and that each one \"stands on the shoulders\" of those who have come before and after them. That may sound hokey and like general conference speak yet three people we spoke with found these pronouncements to be inspiring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many attendees shared with Bay Area Bites that the chance of learning from so many different people doing interesting things is one of the main draws of shelling out \u003ca href=\"http://www.iacp.com/attend/more/program_registration_2\">$750 to $950\u003c/a> to register for the full conference—that’s on top of the $280 it costs to initially join IACP. Off the record, we were told that IACP is in the midst of something of a revamp and that costs and programming issues have been noted if not yet changed. These folks said that they attend as much for the learning sessions on, say, the meaning of restaurant reviews in the era of Yelp to getting a lowdown on sourdough or video content strategy. The coffee breaks are also highly valued and networking even happens in the bathrooms. Yes, really. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kale salad and eating local may remain a big trend, but IACP attendees see much, much more at play in the food world. We asked some notable thought leaders to answer a few questions in person: \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>What is this conference about for you?\u003c/strong>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>The theme of the conference is Dirt to Digital; what does it mean to you?\u003c/strong>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>How does the theme translate to the food industry?\u003c/strong>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>What did you learn about in the workshops and what are the clear trends that emerged from the conference?\u003c/strong>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>Here are insights from Corby Kummer, Danielle Gould, Sandor Katz, Joanne Weir and Sarah Copeland. Their responses have been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/CorbyKummer500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/CorbyKummer500-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Corby Kummer . Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-59838\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/corby-kummer/\">Corby Kummer\u003c/a> is a senior editor at The Atlantic magazine. Known as \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/CKummer\">“the dean of food writing,”\u003c/a> Kummer’s 1990 Atlantic series about coffee is a benchmark for excellence in long-form food writing. He is the author of “The Joy of Coffee,” based on his Atlantic series, and the recently published “The Pleasures of Slow Food.” Kummer is the recipient of three James Beard Journalism Awards, including the MFK Fisher Distinguished Writing Award.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kummer:\u003c/strong> This conference is about seeing people who are following food issues on the level of the home cook. It’s about how the things that we in the media are interested in and write about play out in real life and the home of a consumer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>IACP has always been the most connected to the real world of any group because it’s people making their living as culinary professionals. They are in touch with sustainability, farming and local issues. I thought the conference was brilliantly named \"Dirt to Digital\" because online is where all of the IACP members need to be marketing themselves and their products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With social media, no one yet knows how to master it but everyone’s trying to learn. IACP has always been at the forefront of practical and real world applications. That’s a unique role because being so smartly focused attracts the most interesting, lively and active people in the food world. And I’ll take any opportunity to connect with them.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/danielle-gould.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/danielle-gould-190x190.jpeg\" alt=\"Danielle Gould\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignright size-thumbnail wp-image-59886\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/dhgisme\">Danielle Gould\u003c/a> is the Founder and CEO of \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodtechconnect.com/\">Food+Tech Connect\u003c/a>, a media company and network for innovators transforming the business of food. Through news and analysis, events, and custom research, Gould helps companies of all sizes drive innovation and understand how information and technology are changing the way food is produced, distributed, and consumed. She is also a founding member of the Culinary Institute of America’s Sustainable Business Leadership Council and is a regular contributor to Forbes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Gould:\u003c/strong> This is my first time at IACP and they invited me to talk about food and tech trends and hackathons as a model for food innovation. Our panel touched on the opportunity and the medium, as well as how to demystify technology. It is also about helping people understand the knowledge and the challenges that are out there. We’re trying to empower people to put that knowledge out there where they’re collaborating with designers and developers to solve that problem. I travel the whole country and spread the gospel and learn about how people are thinking. It’s about using technology to help solve problems, spread messages and improve business models and just accelerate innovation that’s happening on a small scale. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the past, a book would take you two years and a product would take 18 months. For a food producer or chef, that means that it takes awhile to market things. Technology offers opportunities: now you can self-publish that cookbook in close to real time, and get feedback on your product. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Dirt to Digital\" is at the heart of what food technology is. You’re looking across the supply chain, and food is interconnected. It is a system, and that goes to the consumer. A lot of times when people think of digital, they think of consumers. Emerging trends and what role technology is for each trend is a part of that. Technology is very broad and means so much to so many different people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I just love learning how people respond to technology and food and how they use it. The other major takeaway was a lot of the panels weren't very popular or not as sexy but were about funding. Everyone’s having trouble making money in the food space. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BruceAidellsSandor560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BruceAidellsSandor560-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Karen MacKenzie, Bruce Aidells and Sandor Katz at IACP Awards. Photo: Mary Ladd\" alt=\"Karen MacKenzie, Bruce Aidells and Sandor Katz at IACP Awards. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-59837\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.wildfermentation.com/who-is-sandorkraut/\">Sandor Ellix Katz\u003c/a>, “one of the unlikely rock stars of the American food scene” according to The New York Times, is a self-taught fermentation experimentalist. His books “The Art of Fermentation” and “Wild Fermentation,” and the fermentation workshops he has taught across North America and beyond, have helped to catalyze a broad revival of the fermentation arts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Katz:\u003c/strong> I’ve never been to IACP before. I don’t think of myself as a culinary professional. The work that I do is demystifying and sharing skills with people who aren’t necessarily culinary professionals. The highlight for me has been to meet people whose books are influential. [Katz was sitting with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/12/10/everything-you-need-to-know-about-bruce-aidells/\">Bruce Aidells\u003c/a> when we caught up with him and Aidells shared the table with us while we caught up.]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Aidells:\u003c/strong> What’s good sauerkraut without good sausages?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Katz:\u003c/strong> A kraut -- quesadilla is my fast food, and I make it with Pepper Jack. That’s one of my standard meals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The theme of the conference is significant. What does \"Dirt to Digital\" mean? I was just on this panel that was high tech versus low tech yet I don’t necessarily see things that way. I’m interested in understanding these processes in their simplicity. So that doesn’t mean you can’t use technology to have more control over the processes. It’s very empowering to see how the underlying principles don't need equipment. If you get involved in sausage making, you can use a funnel for the casing. You can also just be there with you hands, pushing the meat through to the casing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For cheese, you can buy nice molds, perhaps. There are elegant crocks to make things but you can also do it with a jar that’s already in your pantry. I appreciate the conference and there’s much information spreading by digital means but it may be telling people how to use their hands. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/JoanneWeir500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/JoanneWeir500-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Joanne Weir at IACP Awards. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignright size-thumbnail wp-image-59841\">\u003c/a>Joanne Weir is a James Beard award-winning cookbook author, cooking teacher, host and executive producer for the award-winning television series Joanne Weir’s Cooking Confidence. She is the chef-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/04/29/copita-tequileria-y-comida-joanne-weir-and-larry-mindel%E2%80%99s-mexico-in-sausalito/\">Copita\u003c/a>, a tequileria and restaurant in Sausalito. The author of 17 cookbooks, including the newly released “Cooking Confidence,” Joanne is the Culinary Editor at Large at Fine Cooking! magazine. She travels and teaches extensively around the world as well as in her studio kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Weir:\u003c/strong> This conference was so interesting because I’ve approached it differently as a restaurateur this year. I usually approach it as “I write for magazines” or my cookbooks or how to fill your cooking classes. This time I’m taking in things that are really different. I want to sit in on the reviewing and Yelping session. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I still love to see all the people I know when I come to IACP. And I love that it’s in SF and I get to share Copita--they’re going over by ferry. I did a tour on Saturday and people loved it. I’ve shared in a different way and am still excited about my restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For me with \"Dirt to Digital,\" I don’t know if I put the two together. Yet every single thing I do is fresh. I have an organic farm -- and my next series is called \"Fresh\" for TV. I am always interested in digital media. The market has changed and the whole landscape is changing. My hope is it that it goes back to dirt and less digital. Is that so 'Chez Panisse' of me? (laughs) I do digital but food is still my passion. Perhaps next year the IACP theme should be \"Back to Passion.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>IACP is pretty current on things. What they’ve done this year is now bloggers have been integrated. I left feeling in past years that I had to do so much on my own blog. I’ve always done food that is following my passion and on what brings about major possibilities for me. I attended a book session that talked about book advance spending and how book tours are back and rely on the digital medium.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My trend is always Mexican, and that comes with owning Copita. I saw the trendologist \u003ca href=\"http://www.ccdinnovation.com/about/staff/nielsen.php\">Kara Nielsen\u003c/a> here and she said, \"You couldn’t be in a more trendy thing, with Mexican food and tequila.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I do modern Mexican food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We used to think of Italian red tablecloths and Chianti -- yet now Italian food has come a long way. One of the trends here is taking cuisines and elevating and educating around the cuisine. Thomas Keller was talking about that and I have seen that in this conference. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/SarahCopeland500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/SarahCopeland500-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Sarah Copeland at IACP Awards. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-59845\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://edibleliving.com/\">Sarah Copeland\u003c/a> is the Food Director at \u003ca href=\"http://www.realsimple.com/\">Real Simple\u003c/a> and author of “\u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/the-newlywed-cookbook.html\">The Newlywed Cookbook\u003c/a>: Fresh Ideas and Modern Recipes for Cooking With and For Each Other.” Her book, “Feast” will be published in December this year and she has authored numerous articles and recipes for Real Simple, Saveur, Food & Wine, Health, Martha Stewart Living, Better Homes & Gardens and Food Network Magazine. She has appeared as a guest on The Martha Stewart Show, Good Morning America and ABC News Now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Copeland:\u003c/strong> A lot of the conference is about relationships. I see faces from every different facet of my career and have been reconnecting and catching up on what people are doing that is new and exciting. There’s a chance to celebrate successes while hopefully helping a few people too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On \"Dirt to Digital,\" one of the most challenging things of this industry from my perspective is that I started in print. That part has changed so dramatically in ten years or even five years. For most food people who are in love with food, it is very tactile how we communicate yet that is changing so much. The dirt part communicates place, smell, and touch, which are all the good things. It includes the agriculture, and the farmer. There are so many layers and it is complex with dirt. That’s how food is to me: we touch humanity and civilization, nutrition and wellness. In the digital sphere, how do you capture that? I think we are all figuring that out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did a panel on recipes and copyright for the conference. There were folks from Pillsbury there who were trying to figure out their contest. We also had teachers, bakery owners and bloggers. As Food Director at Real Simple, I have to be savvy and think about those aspects. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On almost every panel I ask, 'What’s the best panel?' This year, everyone is focusing on video. I worked at the Food Network -- and yet this industry has been print for so long. With \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/user/TheOfficialHungry\">Hungry\u003c/a> and YouTube and different avenues, it’s just so video-focused. The trailer for my first book is a minute and a half but my next one will probably be half that, to seventy-five seconds. My new book 'Feast' from Chronicle Books is coming out in December and I’ve learned a few things that I’ll do differently. I am coming away from the conference with the feeling that there is room for every voice and every talent. If you are generous, they will help you, too.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The International Association of Culinary Professionals wrapped up its 35th annual conference in San Francisco with a \"Dirt to Digital\" theme and awards ceremony. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1366006494,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":40,"wordCount":2807},"headData":{"title":"IACP in San Francisco: Conference Highlights and Awards | KQED","description":"The International Association of Culinary Professionals wrapped up its 35th annual conference in San Francisco with a "Dirt to Digital" theme and awards ceremony. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"IACP in San Francisco: Conference Highlights and Awards","datePublished":"2013-04-12T19:32:04.000Z","dateModified":"2013-04-15T06:14:54.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"59722 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=59722","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/04/12/iacp-in-san-francisco-conference-highlights-and-awards/","disqusTitle":"IACP in San Francisco: Conference Highlights and Awards","path":"/bayareabites/59722/iacp-in-san-francisco-conference-highlights-and-awards","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/ThomasKeller640.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/ThomasKeller640-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Thomas Keller at IACP Awards in San Francisco.\" alt=\"Thomas Keller at IACP Awards in San Francisco. Photo: Gamma Nine via IACP\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59846\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/AliceWaters_MYan.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/AliceWaters_MYan-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Alice Waters and Martin Yan at IACP Awards in San Francisco.\" alt=\"Alice Waters and Martin Yan at IACP Awards in San Francisco. Photo: Gamma Nine via IACP\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59835\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/joanneweir640-use.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/joanneweir640-use-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Joanne Weir at IACP Awards in San Francisco.\" alt=\"Joanne Weir at IACP Awards in San Francisco. Photo: Gamma Nine via IACP\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59842\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Phan_Angkana500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Phan_Angkana500-190x190.jpg\" title=\"IACP award winner Chef Charles Phan with his wife Angkana Kurutach.\" alt=\"IACP award winner Chef Charles Phan with his wife Angkana Kurutach. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59844\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/IrvinLinwins500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/IrvinLinwins500-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Irvin Lin with his IACP award.\" alt=\"Irvin Lin with his IACP award. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59839\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Joel_riddell_ChefJohn560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/Joel_riddell_ChefJohn560-190x190.jpg\" title=\"IACP Award winner Joel Riddell with Chef John Mitzewich.\" alt=\"IACP Award winner Joel Riddell with Chef John Mitzewich. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-59843\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We wish this one was televised, too: \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/03/08/alice-waters-on-chez-panisse-fire-video/\">Alice Waters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/01/27/martin-yan-m-y-china-vietnam-travels-and-chinese-new-year/\">Martin Yan\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.joanneweir.com/index.php\">Joanne Weir\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://virginiawillis.com/\">Virginia Willis\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.newmansownorganics.com/nells_corner_bio.html\">Nell Newman\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Rick_Bayless\">Rick Bayless\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Chef_Keller\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/charles-phan/\">Charles Phan\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.talk910.com/pages/diningaround.html\">Joel Riddell\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatthelove.com/\">Irvin Lin\u003c/a> were among the folks who took the stage for Tuesday night’s 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.iacp.com/\">International Association of Culinary Professionals\u003c/a> (IACP) awards ceremony in San Francisco. \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodcommunityculture.org/\">Oakland Food Connection\u003c/a> and food incubator \u003ca href=\"http://www.lacocinasf.org/\">La Cocina\u003c/a> were also honored. IACP's professional awards are widely viewed in the food world as something of a gold standard for cookbooks, food writing, digital media and culinary tours. The awards marked the closing night of the organization’s 35th annual conference, which went with a “\u003ca href=\"http://www.iacp.com/attend/more/2013_conference_theme\">Dirt to Digital\u003c/a>” theme this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Check out the full \u003ca href=\"http://www.iacp.com/documents/IACP_AwardsFinalists_2013.pdf\">list of award finalists\u003c/a> and the grand \u003ca href=\"https://www.iacp.com/documents/IACP35_AwardWinners_2013_FINAL.pdf\">list of winners\u003c/a>. While the awards ceremony stretched out over a few hours and was oddly lacking \u003cem>any\u003c/em> form of culinary nourishment (there were definite rumblings after the ceremony about that), it offered quirks, songs and even a few dick jokes courtesy of \u003ca href=\"http://www.libbiesummers.com/\">Libbie Summers\u003c/a>, whose \u003ca href=\"http://www.saltedandstyled.com/\">Salted and Styled\u003c/a> blog won for Best Culinary Blog. On the other end of the spectrum, the evening kicked off with all guests looking up and saying “thank you” as a dedication to publisher \u003ca href=\"http://www.workman.com/blog/2013/04/peter-workman-10191938-472013/\">Peter Workman\u003c/a>, who passed away just this week. It was also emotional for Lifetime Achievement Award winner \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/AliceWaters\">Alice Waters\u003c/a>, who gratefully accepted her prize and joked in her speech that while she cannot farm, “I am a picker,” which got the audience laughing--wise words from the founder of \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/\">Chez Panisse\u003c/a> and the \u003ca href=\"http://edibleschoolyard.org/\">Edible Schoolyard\u003c/a>. Waters also professed her admiration for cooking teachers because: “I cannot teach.” She immediately went on to acknowledge IACP attendee and stalwart \u003ca href=\"http://www.cookingisfun.ie/pages/\">Darina Allen\u003c/a>, whose Ballymaloe cooking school she visits every year (for her birthday).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/10/04/an-interview-with-charles-phan-author-of-vietnamese-home-cooking/\">Charles Phan\u003c/a> won in the Chefs and Restaurants cookbook category for his “Vietnamese Home Cooking” (co-authored with \u003ca href=\"http://www.tastingtable.com/press_release/internal/7740/Jessica_Battilana_Senior_Editor.htm\">Tasting Table\u003c/a> Senior Editor Jessica Battilana), he confessed that he did not have a speech but had enjoyed some bourbon to presumably get warmed up. Phan thanked Battilana, his agent and wife, Angkana. “My wife made sure I turned the book manuscript in, so I wouldn’t have to return the book advance money to Ten Speed Press.” \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Jerusalem-A-Cookbook-Yotam-Ottolenghi/dp/1607743949\">Jerusalem: A Cookbook\u003c/a>” by Yotam Ottolenghi, Sami Tamimi, received the award for Cookbook of the Year, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodpolitics.com/about/\">Marion Nestle\u003c/a> garnered a prize in the Food Matters category for her weighty tome, “Why Calories Count: From Science to Politics.” The deeply satisfying sugar-rush images in the \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Bouchon-Bakery-Thomas-Keller/dp/1579654355/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1365787021&sr=1-1&keywords=Bouchon+Bakery\">Bouchon Bakery\u003c/a> cookbook garnered an award for Food Photography and Styling, and the \u003ca href=\"http://www.talk910.com/pages/diningaround.html\">Dining Around with Joel Riddell\u003c/a> radio show won in the Long Format Audio category. The team at \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/08/17/publish-like-a-local-nion-mcevoy-and-chronicle-books/\">Chronicle Books\u003c/a> may still be celebrating given their author Diane Morgan won for her book, \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Roots-Definitive-Compendium-more-Recipes/dp/0811878376/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1365786976&sr=1-1&keywords=Roots%3A+The+Definitive+Compendium+with+more+than+225+Recipes.\">Roots: The Definitive Compendium with more than 225 Recipes.\u003c/a>\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Culinary Tour Operator of the Year went to \u003ca href=\"http://www.copitarestaurant.com/\">Copita\u003c/a> chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.joanneweir.com/index.php\">Joanne Weir\u003c/a>, who shared that as a child, she told her father that she wanted to be a bus driver, so that she could drive a bus on every road in the world. Her confession seemed to scare him a little. Weir dedicated her prize to him because he passed away last year. Food blogger Irvin Lin won the Best in Show prize for his photography, and he asked the IACP crowd to “hire me, I'm available,\" a sentiment which was echoed by the next winner.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The conference itself is that rare chance to possibly figure out how to eke out a living doing things in the culinary field--it can be exciting but also daunting in the number of possibilities it presents. There were various declarations for members to support each other and that each one \"stands on the shoulders\" of those who have come before and after them. That may sound hokey and like general conference speak yet three people we spoke with found these pronouncements to be inspiring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many attendees shared with Bay Area Bites that the chance of learning from so many different people doing interesting things is one of the main draws of shelling out \u003ca href=\"http://www.iacp.com/attend/more/program_registration_2\">$750 to $950\u003c/a> to register for the full conference—that’s on top of the $280 it costs to initially join IACP. Off the record, we were told that IACP is in the midst of something of a revamp and that costs and programming issues have been noted if not yet changed. These folks said that they attend as much for the learning sessions on, say, the meaning of restaurant reviews in the era of Yelp to getting a lowdown on sourdough or video content strategy. The coffee breaks are also highly valued and networking even happens in the bathrooms. Yes, really. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kale salad and eating local may remain a big trend, but IACP attendees see much, much more at play in the food world. We asked some notable thought leaders to answer a few questions in person: \u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>What is this conference about for you?\u003c/strong>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>The theme of the conference is Dirt to Digital; what does it mean to you?\u003c/strong>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>How does the theme translate to the food industry?\u003c/strong>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cstrong>What did you learn about in the workshops and what are the clear trends that emerged from the conference?\u003c/strong>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>Here are insights from Corby Kummer, Danielle Gould, Sandor Katz, Joanne Weir and Sarah Copeland. Their responses have been edited for length and clarity.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/CorbyKummer500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/CorbyKummer500-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Corby Kummer . Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-59838\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.theatlantic.com/corby-kummer/\">Corby Kummer\u003c/a> is a senior editor at The Atlantic magazine. Known as \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/CKummer\">“the dean of food writing,”\u003c/a> Kummer’s 1990 Atlantic series about coffee is a benchmark for excellence in long-form food writing. He is the author of “The Joy of Coffee,” based on his Atlantic series, and the recently published “The Pleasures of Slow Food.” Kummer is the recipient of three James Beard Journalism Awards, including the MFK Fisher Distinguished Writing Award.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kummer:\u003c/strong> This conference is about seeing people who are following food issues on the level of the home cook. It’s about how the things that we in the media are interested in and write about play out in real life and the home of a consumer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>IACP has always been the most connected to the real world of any group because it’s people making their living as culinary professionals. They are in touch with sustainability, farming and local issues. I thought the conference was brilliantly named \"Dirt to Digital\" because online is where all of the IACP members need to be marketing themselves and their products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With social media, no one yet knows how to master it but everyone’s trying to learn. IACP has always been at the forefront of practical and real world applications. That’s a unique role because being so smartly focused attracts the most interesting, lively and active people in the food world. And I’ll take any opportunity to connect with them.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/danielle-gould.jpeg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/danielle-gould-190x190.jpeg\" alt=\"Danielle Gould\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignright size-thumbnail wp-image-59886\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/dhgisme\">Danielle Gould\u003c/a> is the Founder and CEO of \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodtechconnect.com/\">Food+Tech Connect\u003c/a>, a media company and network for innovators transforming the business of food. Through news and analysis, events, and custom research, Gould helps companies of all sizes drive innovation and understand how information and technology are changing the way food is produced, distributed, and consumed. She is also a founding member of the Culinary Institute of America’s Sustainable Business Leadership Council and is a regular contributor to Forbes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Gould:\u003c/strong> This is my first time at IACP and they invited me to talk about food and tech trends and hackathons as a model for food innovation. Our panel touched on the opportunity and the medium, as well as how to demystify technology. It is also about helping people understand the knowledge and the challenges that are out there. We’re trying to empower people to put that knowledge out there where they’re collaborating with designers and developers to solve that problem. I travel the whole country and spread the gospel and learn about how people are thinking. It’s about using technology to help solve problems, spread messages and improve business models and just accelerate innovation that’s happening on a small scale. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the past, a book would take you two years and a product would take 18 months. For a food producer or chef, that means that it takes awhile to market things. Technology offers opportunities: now you can self-publish that cookbook in close to real time, and get feedback on your product. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Dirt to Digital\" is at the heart of what food technology is. You’re looking across the supply chain, and food is interconnected. It is a system, and that goes to the consumer. A lot of times when people think of digital, they think of consumers. Emerging trends and what role technology is for each trend is a part of that. Technology is very broad and means so much to so many different people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I just love learning how people respond to technology and food and how they use it. The other major takeaway was a lot of the panels weren't very popular or not as sexy but were about funding. Everyone’s having trouble making money in the food space. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BruceAidellsSandor560.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/BruceAidellsSandor560-190x190.jpg\" title=\"Karen MacKenzie, Bruce Aidells and Sandor Katz at IACP Awards. Photo: Mary Ladd\" alt=\"Karen MacKenzie, Bruce Aidells and Sandor Katz at IACP Awards. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-59837\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.wildfermentation.com/who-is-sandorkraut/\">Sandor Ellix Katz\u003c/a>, “one of the unlikely rock stars of the American food scene” according to The New York Times, is a self-taught fermentation experimentalist. His books “The Art of Fermentation” and “Wild Fermentation,” and the fermentation workshops he has taught across North America and beyond, have helped to catalyze a broad revival of the fermentation arts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Katz:\u003c/strong> I’ve never been to IACP before. I don’t think of myself as a culinary professional. The work that I do is demystifying and sharing skills with people who aren’t necessarily culinary professionals. The highlight for me has been to meet people whose books are influential. [Katz was sitting with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/12/10/everything-you-need-to-know-about-bruce-aidells/\">Bruce Aidells\u003c/a> when we caught up with him and Aidells shared the table with us while we caught up.]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Aidells:\u003c/strong> What’s good sauerkraut without good sausages?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Katz:\u003c/strong> A kraut -- quesadilla is my fast food, and I make it with Pepper Jack. That’s one of my standard meals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The theme of the conference is significant. What does \"Dirt to Digital\" mean? I was just on this panel that was high tech versus low tech yet I don’t necessarily see things that way. I’m interested in understanding these processes in their simplicity. So that doesn’t mean you can’t use technology to have more control over the processes. It’s very empowering to see how the underlying principles don't need equipment. If you get involved in sausage making, you can use a funnel for the casing. You can also just be there with you hands, pushing the meat through to the casing. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For cheese, you can buy nice molds, perhaps. There are elegant crocks to make things but you can also do it with a jar that’s already in your pantry. I appreciate the conference and there’s much information spreading by digital means but it may be telling people how to use their hands. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/JoanneWeir500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/JoanneWeir500-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Joanne Weir at IACP Awards. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignright size-thumbnail wp-image-59841\">\u003c/a>Joanne Weir is a James Beard award-winning cookbook author, cooking teacher, host and executive producer for the award-winning television series Joanne Weir’s Cooking Confidence. She is the chef-owner of \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/04/29/copita-tequileria-y-comida-joanne-weir-and-larry-mindel%E2%80%99s-mexico-in-sausalito/\">Copita\u003c/a>, a tequileria and restaurant in Sausalito. The author of 17 cookbooks, including the newly released “Cooking Confidence,” Joanne is the Culinary Editor at Large at Fine Cooking! magazine. She travels and teaches extensively around the world as well as in her studio kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Weir:\u003c/strong> This conference was so interesting because I’ve approached it differently as a restaurateur this year. I usually approach it as “I write for magazines” or my cookbooks or how to fill your cooking classes. This time I’m taking in things that are really different. I want to sit in on the reviewing and Yelping session. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I still love to see all the people I know when I come to IACP. And I love that it’s in SF and I get to share Copita--they’re going over by ferry. I did a tour on Saturday and people loved it. I’ve shared in a different way and am still excited about my restaurant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For me with \"Dirt to Digital,\" I don’t know if I put the two together. Yet every single thing I do is fresh. I have an organic farm -- and my next series is called \"Fresh\" for TV. I am always interested in digital media. The market has changed and the whole landscape is changing. My hope is it that it goes back to dirt and less digital. Is that so 'Chez Panisse' of me? (laughs) I do digital but food is still my passion. Perhaps next year the IACP theme should be \"Back to Passion.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>IACP is pretty current on things. What they’ve done this year is now bloggers have been integrated. I left feeling in past years that I had to do so much on my own blog. I’ve always done food that is following my passion and on what brings about major possibilities for me. I attended a book session that talked about book advance spending and how book tours are back and rely on the digital medium.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My trend is always Mexican, and that comes with owning Copita. I saw the trendologist \u003ca href=\"http://www.ccdinnovation.com/about/staff/nielsen.php\">Kara Nielsen\u003c/a> here and she said, \"You couldn’t be in a more trendy thing, with Mexican food and tequila.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I do modern Mexican food. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We used to think of Italian red tablecloths and Chianti -- yet now Italian food has come a long way. One of the trends here is taking cuisines and elevating and educating around the cuisine. Thomas Keller was talking about that and I have seen that in this conference. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/SarahCopeland500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/SarahCopeland500-190x190.jpg\" alt=\"Sarah Copeland at IACP Awards. Photo: Mary Ladd\" width=\"190\" height=\"190\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-59845\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://edibleliving.com/\">Sarah Copeland\u003c/a> is the Food Director at \u003ca href=\"http://www.realsimple.com/\">Real Simple\u003c/a> and author of “\u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/the-newlywed-cookbook.html\">The Newlywed Cookbook\u003c/a>: Fresh Ideas and Modern Recipes for Cooking With and For Each Other.” Her book, “Feast” will be published in December this year and she has authored numerous articles and recipes for Real Simple, Saveur, Food & Wine, Health, Martha Stewart Living, Better Homes & Gardens and Food Network Magazine. She has appeared as a guest on The Martha Stewart Show, Good Morning America and ABC News Now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Copeland:\u003c/strong> A lot of the conference is about relationships. I see faces from every different facet of my career and have been reconnecting and catching up on what people are doing that is new and exciting. There’s a chance to celebrate successes while hopefully helping a few people too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On \"Dirt to Digital,\" one of the most challenging things of this industry from my perspective is that I started in print. That part has changed so dramatically in ten years or even five years. For most food people who are in love with food, it is very tactile how we communicate yet that is changing so much. The dirt part communicates place, smell, and touch, which are all the good things. It includes the agriculture, and the farmer. There are so many layers and it is complex with dirt. That’s how food is to me: we touch humanity and civilization, nutrition and wellness. In the digital sphere, how do you capture that? I think we are all figuring that out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did a panel on recipes and copyright for the conference. There were folks from Pillsbury there who were trying to figure out their contest. We also had teachers, bakery owners and bloggers. As Food Director at Real Simple, I have to be savvy and think about those aspects. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On almost every panel I ask, 'What’s the best panel?' This year, everyone is focusing on video. I worked at the Food Network -- and yet this industry has been print for so long. With \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/user/TheOfficialHungry\">Hungry\u003c/a> and YouTube and different avenues, it’s just so video-focused. The trailer for my first book is a minute and a half but my next one will probably be half that, to seventy-five seconds. My new book 'Feast' from Chronicle Books is coming out in December and I’ve learned a few things that I’ll do differently. I am coming away from the conference with the feeling that there is room for every voice and every talent. If you are generous, they will help you, too.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/59722/iacp-in-san-francisco-conference-highlights-and-awards","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_64","bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_50","bayareabites_1865","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_1146","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_234","bayareabites_10665","bayareabites_3205","bayareabites_11528","bayareabites_11529","bayareabites_11530","bayareabites_4079","bayareabites_14745","bayareabites_3787"],"featImg":"bayareabites_59876","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_59142":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_59142","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"59142","score":null,"sort":[1364576554000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"homemade-peeps-and-more-easter-treats-a-la-thomas-keller","title":"Homemade Peeps, And More Easter Treats, A La Thomas Keller","publishDate":1364576554,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59160\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_eggs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_eggs.jpg\" alt=\"Marshmallow eggs made with homemade flavored sugar are a colorful treat at Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills, Calif. To make them, pipe homemade marshmallow into hollow plastic eggs. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"351\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59160\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marshmallow eggs made with homemade flavored sugar are a colorful treat at Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills, Calif. To make them, pipe homemade marshmallow into hollow plastic eggs. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/29/175599684/homemade-peeps-and-more-easter-treats-a-la-thomas-keller\">Morning Edition\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/03/20130329_me_18.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Camila Domonoske, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/29/175599684/homemade-peeps-and-more-easter-treats-a-la-thomas-keller\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/29/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/175620951/bouchon-bakery\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon-bakery-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"Bouchon Bakery by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-59162\">\u003c/a>After 40 long days of Lenten abstention, Easter is a time for indulgence. And for those of us who don't observe Lent — well, who can resist all those chocolate bunnies? It's a time for sweets, with or without an excuse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you're looking for Easter indulgences that are a little more refined than Peeps and jelly beans,\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong> take a cue from renowned chef Thomas Keller, whose \u003ca href=\"http://bouchonbistro.com/\">Bouchon\u003c/a> restaurants are as famous for their baked goods as they are for their bistro fare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Earlier this week, NPR's Renee Montagne visited the kitchen of the Bouchon restaurant and bakery in Beverly Hills, Calif., for a taste of some of Keller's takes on classic Easter sweets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of us can't sneak a taste of Keller's hot cross bun frosting, like Montagne did, but thanks to the cookbook \u003cem>Bouchon Bakery\u003c/em>, which Keller co-authored, we can re-create some of those treats at home. Be warned, though: Keller's standards are exacting, and reproducing some of his items requires extra prep work — and maybe some shopping for new kitchen tools.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For precision baking, Keller says a scale is crucial; flour can easily shift in density, so measuring in cups is dangerously inaccurate, he argues.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Throw away your measuring cups,\" Keller tells Montagne. \"Buy yourself a gram scale instead.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other items you might need that may not be kitchen staples, like acetate sheets and powdered food coloring, make cooking easier and cleanup far less stressful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keller led NPR through the process of making three Easter treats from his kitchen. Recipes for all three can be found farther down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59159\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhot-cross-buns.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhot-cross-buns-290x217.jpg\" alt='The Bouchon Bakery cookbook demonstrates how to apply the frosting \"cross\" on a pan of hot cross buns. Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books' width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59159\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Bouchon Bakery cookbook demonstrates how to apply the frosting \"cross\" on a pan of hot cross buns.\u003cbr> Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hot Cross Buns\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"#buns\">Hot cross buns\u003c/a> date back hundreds of years and have traditionally been made on Good Friday. These dough rolls marked with a cross had a religious component, certainly, but they're also symbolic of another kind of devotion, Keller explains. \"Eating the hot cross bun with your friend meant that you'd be friends for life, so it really signified that kind of friendship in a positive way,\" he says. \"And then there's another myth: If you kept a bun for an entire year, it would not go moldy, and if you became sick and you ate it, it would cure whatever sickness you have.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bouchon's version is a rich brioche roll studded with dried currants and cranberries. Pastry chefs top the brioche with a cross of white confectioners' sugar frosting, spiced with cinnamon and cardamom. Myths aside, don't let them sit for a year: They're best eaten the same day they're baked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Marshmallow Eggs\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keller has fond memories of that springtime staple, Peeps: \"They're very cute,\" he says, \"and, you know, they remind us of when we were kids. I mean, we ate those all the time.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bouchon's egg-shaped, homemade \u003ca href=\"#eggs\">marshmallows\u003c/a> turn that childhood memory into a grown-up treat. The marshmallow imparts a richness that can come as a surprise — Montagne describes it as \"almost like thick cream.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59163\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon-carrotmuffins.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon-carrotmuffins-290x216.jpg\" alt=\"Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery makes a variety of carrot-themed desserts — carrot cake, carrot muffins and carrot cupcakes — to celebrate Eas Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"216\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59163\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery makes a variety of carrot-themed desserts — carrot cake, carrot muffins and carrot cupcakes — to celebrate Eas Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Carrot Muffins\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The last recipe is a little less obviously Easter-related, but Keller says \u003ca href=\"#muffins\">carrot muffins\u003c/a> are a holiday staple. \"Bunnies eat carrots. We've got to have carrots involved in Easter, because that's Bugs Bunny's favorite vegetable,\" he jokes. And there's a benefit to having carrot muffins on your table of holiday indulgences: \"Everybody loves it, because in many ways you think it's really, really healthy for you,\" Keller says. \"It's a way of being sinful, but also being responsible to some health concerns.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're making carrot muffins at home, the key is to start with the right kind of carrots: the small, skinny ones that come in bunches, rather than the larger \"horse carrots\" you might use for soup. \"We want to have the sweetest possible carrot that we can get,\" Keller says, which means carrots less than an inch in diameter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Look below for Keller's recipes for hot cross buns, marshmallow eggs and carrot muffins. Be sure to set aside ample time for these treats — they are all multiday projects, with some sort of overnight component. After all, you don't cook your way to three Michelin stars by taking shortcuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"buns\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Hot Cross Buns \u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 12 buns\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Buns\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup (122 grams) dried currants\u003cbr>1/2 cup (61 grams) dried cranberries\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon (3 grams) vanilla paste\u003cbr>Brioche Dough For Hot Cross Buns (recipe follows)\u003cbr>Egg Wash (recipe follows)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Icing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/4 cups (258 grams) powdered sugar\u003cbr>3/8 teaspoon (1 grams) ground cinnamon\u003cbr>3/8 teaspoon (1 grams) ground cardamom\u003cbr>2 1/2 tablespoons (40 grams) whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe was developed by Bouchon Bakery's head baker, Matthew McDonald. The buns are loaded with currants and cranberries and piped with an icing spiced with cinnamon and cardamom. It's the beguiling addition of cardamom to just the right amount of cinnamon in the icing, and the way the spices play off the fruit, that gives these buns their zing. Hot cross buns are an English tradition on Good Friday, but they're so good we hope you'll make them all year round. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need a quarter sheet pan and a disposable pastry bag. Buns baked in a convection oven will have a slightly higher rise and a more even color.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Buns \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the currants and cranberries in a medium bowl and pour 2 cups boiling water over them. Let sit for 5 minutes to plump the fruit, then drain and pat dry with paper towels. Dry the bowl, return the fruit to it, and toss with the vanilla paste. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray a large bowl with nonstick spray. Run a bowl scraper around the sides and down to the bottom of the bowl of brioche dough to release the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface, adding flour only as needed to keep it from sticking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59166\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhotcrossbuns2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhotcrossbuns2-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Thomas Keller demonstrates how to apply homemade icing to his hot cross buns. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59166\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Thomas Keller demonstrates how to apply homemade icing to his hot cross buns. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With your hands, gently pat the dough into a rectangular shape. Pour the currant-cranberry mixture onto the dough and knead it into the dough (which will be sticky) to distribute it evenly. Pat the dough into a rectangle again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stretch the left side of the dough out and fold it over two-thirds of the dough, then stretch and fold it from the right side to the opposite side, as if you were folding a letter. Repeat the process, working from the bottom and then the top. Turn the dough over, lift it up with a bench scraper, and place it seam side down in the prepared bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a clean dish towel and let the dough sit at room temperature for 45 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Repeat the stretching and folding process, then return the dough to the bowl, seam side down, cover, and let sit for another 45 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray the quarter sheet pan with nonstick spray. Line the bottom with parchment paper and spray the paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Use the bowl scraper to release the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface. Using a bench scraper, divide the dough into 12 equal portions (78 grams each). Cup your fingers around a portion of dough and, using the palm of your hand, roll it against the work surface to form a ball. Continue to roll until the dough is completely smooth. Repeat with the remaining dough. (When you become proficient at rolling with one hand, you can use both hands and roll 2 portions at a time.) Set the balls on the prepared pan in 3 rows of 4. Brush the tops with egg wash.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover the pan with a plastic tub or a cardboard box and let proof for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, until the balls have risen and are touching.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 325 F (convection) or 350 F (standard).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brush the tops of the buns with egg wash again. Bake for 17 to 22 minutes in a convection oven, 25 to 30 minutes in a standard oven, until the tops are a rich golden brown and, when tested with a toothpick, the centers are baked through. Set the pan on a cooling rack and let cool completely. (If freezing, do not ice the buns at this point.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Icing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sift the sugar, cinnamon and cardamom into the bowl of a stand mixer. Fit the mixer with the paddle attachment and mix on the lowest setting for about 15 seconds to distribute the spices evenly. With the mixer running, slowly add the milk. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, increase the speed to low, and mix for 30 seconds to 1 minute, until smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer the icing to the pastry bag. Cut off 1/4 inch of the tip. Starting at the left side of the top corner bun, pipe a continuous strip of icing across the center of the first row of 3 buns. Repeat with the remaining 3 rows. Then repeat in the opposite direction, across the 3 rows of 4 buns, working in the opposite direction, to create a cross of frosting on each bun. Serve the whole pan, or cut into individual buns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The buns are best the day they are baked, but they can be stored, before icing, wrapped tightly in a few layers of plastic wrap or in a single layer in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 week (see note on defrosting frozen baked brioche pastries).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on freezing unbaked brioche pastries: Unbaked brioche pastries can be frozen after they are formed, but before they are proofed, wrapped in a few layers of plastic wrap, for up to 1 week. When ready to use, remove from the freezer and proof the dough as directed, keeping in mind that the proofing may take up to 5 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on defrosting frozen baked brioche pastries: Defrost, still in the plastic wrap or in the container, in the refrigerator. Leaving the pastries wrapped or in the container means any condensation will form on the outside, not on the pastries. Place on a sheet pan and refresh in a 325°F oven (standard) for about 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Brioche Dough For Hot Cross Buns\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups plus 2 1/2 tablespoons (372 grams) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>2 3/8 teaspoons (8 grams) instant yeast\u003cbr>3 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons (44 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1 1/2 teaspoons (9 grams) fine sea salt\u003cbr>1/2 cup plus 3 1/2 tablespoons (186 grams) eggs\u003cbr>1/4 cup (63 grams) whole milk\u003cbr>5.8 ounces (167 grams) unsalted butter cut into 1/2 -inch cubes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Brioche is a bread that's enriched with butter and eggs. There are different ways of making it, with different proportions of butter. Everything should be at room temperature so the dough comes together beautifully. The dough then gets folded and is fermented in the refrigerator overnight.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To mix the dough, place the flour and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook and mix for about 15 seconds to distribute the yeast evenly. Add all of the remaining dough ingredients, except the butter, and mix on low speed for 4 minutes. Continue to mix on low speed for 30 minutes. (At this point there will be some dough sticking to the sides of the bowl.) Add the butter a few pieces at a time, incorporating each addition before adding the next. Stop and scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl and push the dough off the hook. Continue to mix for 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Egg Wash\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Break 1 or more eggs, as needed, into a small bowl and whip with a fork or small whisk to combine the white(s) and yolk(s) well. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer before using.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note: We use egg washes often. If you want a nice shine on a dough, give the dough two brushings of it: The first brushing acts as a sealer, and the second is more like a glaze. At the bakery, because we egg-wash great volumes of products, we put the egg wash, strained, into a spray gun, paint gun or airbrush. This not only gives us a uniform coating, it's also very gentle on the dough, which is important if it's a proofed and delicate croissant, for example. If you're only egg-washing a small quantity, use a pastry brush.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>Bouchon Bakery\u003cem> by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"eggs\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Marshmallow Eggs\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59161\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 193px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_keller.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_keller-193x290.jpg\" alt=\"Thomas Keller demonstrates how to prepare and open his recipe for his marshmallow eggs at his Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"193\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59161\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thomas Keller demonstrates how to prepare and open his recipe for his marshmallow eggs at his Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 12 eggs\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marshmallows, just mixed and still warm (recipes follow)\u003cbr>1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon (90 grams) white or colored decorating sugar, store-bought or homemade (recipes follow)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>At Easter, the team loves to make marshmallow eggs. When you serve them in all kinds of colors, they're a joy to behold, especially for kids. We make different flavors and colors, coat them in various decorative sugars, and place them in egg cartons. For vanilla eggs, we use plain sugar, but for the raspberry we use our raspberry sugar and for the lemon, our lemon sugar. When people first open the carton, they think it's filled with dyed Easter eggs, not marshmallows. Be sure to buy sturdy plastic eggs to use as molds; the cheaper ones are really flimsy. Note that the marshmallows and decorating sugar should rest overnight before coating the eggs.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need twelve two-piece plastic eggs, a clean egg carton, and a pastry bag with a \u003c/em>\u003cem>1/2-inch plain tip.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the plastic eggs are new, open them, wash them and dry thoroughly. Spray the inside of both halves of each egg with nonstick spray and set them in the egg carton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fill the pastry bag with the warm marshmallow mixture. Holding the tip close to the bottom of an egg half, slowly pull up as you fill the half completely; try not to leave any air pockets. Fill the other half and fit the top and bottom together — there will be some resistance, but they must be secure to form a perfectly shaped egg. Wipe off the excess marshmallow that oozes from the egg with a damp paper towel. Repeat with the remaining eggs. Stand the filled eggs in the egg carton and let them sit at room temperature overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the decorating sugar in a small bowl. Remove the eggs from the molds. Toss the eggs in the sugar and then stand them in the egg carton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If they will be served within a few hours, let the eggs sit at room temperature. For longer storage, place the egg carton in a large covered container for up to 2 weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Vanilla Marshmallows\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 4 dozen 1-inch marshmallows (250 grams/8.8 ounces)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup (5 grams) powdered sugar\u003cbr>1/2 cup (6.4 grams) cornstarch\u003cbr>4 sheets (9.6 grams) silver leaf gelatin\u003cbr>1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (87 grams) egg whites\u003cbr>1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise\u003cbr>1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (225 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1/2 cup (112 grams) water\u003cbr>2 1/2 tablespoons (50 grams) light corn syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Marshmallows may seem mysterious and complex, but they're really easy — nothing more than meringue set with gelatin. If you can make a meringue, you can make your own marshmallows. They're playful and fun, and they can be made in different flavors. We make lemon, raspberry and vanilla marshmallows, but you could add jams or pistachio paste for different flavors (add 15 to 20 percent of the weight of the egg whites and sugar).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need an 8-inch-square baking pan, an 8-inch-square piece of acetate, and a Thermapen or other candy thermometer.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the powdered sugar and cornstarch together. Line the baking pan with plastic wrap and sprinkle the plastic wrap generously with the powdered sugar mixture; set the remainder aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the gelatin in a bowl of ice water to soften.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray one side of the piece of acetate with nonstick spray; set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the gelatin from the water and squeeze out excess water. Place the gelatin in a small metal bowl set over a small pot of simmering water and melt it (do not let it simmer), then reduce the heat and keep it warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, place the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add the seeds to the egg whites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the granulated sugar, water and corn syrup in a large saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then simmer for about 5 minutes, until the syrup reaches 250 F/121.1 C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Letting the syrup continue to cook, turn the mixer to medium speed. The goal is to have the whites at medium peaks when the syrup reaches 281 to 284 F/138 to 140 C. Should the whites reach stiff peaks before the syrup reaches the proper temperature, reduce the mixer speed to the lowest setting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59165\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoneggs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoneggs.jpg\" alt=\"After the marshmallow has set, open the plastic shell and dip the egg in flavored and colored sugar, as Thomas Keller demonstrates here. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59165\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">After the marshmallow has set, open the plastic shell and dip the egg in flavored and colored sugar, as Thomas Keller demonstrates here. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When the syrup reaches 281 to 284 F/138 to 140 C, remove it from the heat. Turn the mixer to medium speed and slowly add the syrup to the egg whites, pouring it between the side of the bowl and the whisk. Pour in the gelatin, increase the speed to medium-high, and mix for about 5 minutes, until the mixture is thickened, glossy and warm but not hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray a spatula with nonstick spray. Spread the marshmallow evenly in the prepared pan. Top with the acetate, sprayed side down, and gently press it against the marshmallow to make the top perfectly smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Set a piece of parchment paper larger than the marshmallow on a large cutting board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the sheet of acetate. Coat the top of the marshmallow with some of the reserved powdered sugar mixture. Flip the marshmallow onto the parchment paper, remove the plastic wrap, and sprinkle with more of the powdered sugar mixture as necessary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It can be difficult to cut marshmallows evenly. Spray a large chef's knife with nonstick spray and trim the sides of the marshmallow square, then cut into 1-inch cubes (or other shapes), using a ruler as a guide. Clean and respray the knife before each cut. If the marshmallows are sticky when you separate them, dust them lightly with additional powdered sugar mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The marshmallows can be stored in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Raspberry Marshmallows\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Omit the vanilla bean. If desired, add 2 drops red food coloring, preferably Chefmaster Red Red, to the warm marshmallow mixture and mix just to combine. Remove the bowl from the mixer stand and gently whisk in 12 grams/2 tablespoons raspberry powder. Spread the marshmallow in the pan and proceed as directed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Lemon Marshmallows\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Omit the vanilla bean. If desired, add 6 drops yellow food coloring, preferably Chefmaster Lemon Yellow, to the warm marshmallow mixture and mix just to combine. Add the grated zest of 2 lemons (12 grams/2 tablespoons) and mix to combine, then spread the marshmallow in the pan and proceed as directed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Colored Decorating Sugar\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Raspberry Sugar\u003cem>\u003cbr>\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons (100 grams) large-crystal sparkling sugar\u003cbr>6 drops diluted citric acid (see Note)\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoons (1 gram) dehydrated raspberry powder, or as needed\u003cbr>Powdered oil-soluble red food coloring\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Lemon Sugar\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons (100 grams) large-crystal sparkling sugar\u003cbr>6 drops diluted citric acid (see Note)\u003cbr>3/4 teaspoons (1.5 grams) grated zest of 1/2 lemon (use a rasp grater)\u003cbr>Powdered oil-soluble yellow food coloring\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Don't be tempted to use liquid food coloring; it won't work here. If you'd like, wear a pair of plastic gloves to avoid staining your hands.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the sugar in a small bowl. Stir in the citric acid, raspberry powder or lemon zest, and just the amount of food coloring that fits on the tip of a small paring knife (less than a pinch), then use your hands to work the mixture together. If you'd like, add a little additional powder and/or food coloring. Spread the sugar on a baking sheet and let it dry overnight at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note: To make diluted citric acid, combine 3/8 teaspoon (2 grams) citric acid and 3/4 teaspoon (2 grams) water in a small cup and stir to dissolve the citric acid.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>Bouchon Bakery\u003cem> by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"muffins\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Carrot Muffins\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59164\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoncarrot-muffins.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoncarrot-muffins-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"The Bouchon Bakery cookbook highlights the streusel topping on Keller's carrot muffin Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59164\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Bouchon Bakery cookbook highlights the streusel topping on Keller's carrot muffin Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 muffins\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Batter\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 cups plus 2 teaspoons (180 grams) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>1/2 plus 1/8 teaspoon (3.11 grams) baking soda\u003cbr>1/4 teaspoon (1 grams) baking powder\u003cbr>3/4 plus 1/8 teaspoon (2.3 grams) ground cinnamon\u003cbr>1/2 plus 1/8 teaspoon (2 grams) kosher salt\u003cbr>1 cup plus 2 teaspoons (207 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (142 grams) canola oil\u003cbr>1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise\u003cbr>1/3 cup (80 grams) eggs\u003cbr>1 3/4 cups (212 grams) shredded carrots\u003cbr>Generous 1 1/4 cups (180 grams) Oat Streusel Topping (recipe follows)\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need a 6-cup jumbo muffin pan and muffin papers.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is a good basic carrot muffin, and we sprinkle it with a great oat streusel for even more flavor and texture.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Carrots — and other vegetables, such as zucchini — add moisture to muffin and cake batters. Carrots are so plentiful that we often take them for granted, but all carrots are not alike. I hope you'll pay a little extra for bunch carrots, carrots still with their tops, rather than the ones in plastic bags. The quality makes a big difference when they're a major part of the recipe.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe uses vegetable oil, not butter, and if you omit the streusel, it is dairy free.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the flour in a medium bowl. Sift in the baking soda, baking powder and cinnamon. Add the salt and whisk together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the sugar and oil in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and mix on low speed for about 1 minute. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean, add them to the sugar mixture, and mix for 30 seconds to distribute the seeds evenly. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, add the eggs, and mix on low speed for about 1 minute, until just incorporated. Add the dry ingredients in 2 additions, mixing on low speed for 15 seconds after each, or until just combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the bowl from the mixer stand and scrape the bottom of the bowl to incorporate any dry ingredients that may have settled there. Stir in the carrots. Transfer the batter to a covered container and refrigerate overnight, or for up to 36 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To bake the muffins: Preheat the oven to 425 F (standard). Line the muffin pan with the muffin papers and spray the papers with nonstick spray.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spoon the batter evenly into the papers, stopping 3/8 inch from the top (135 grams each). Sprinkle 30 grams/3 tablespoons of the streusel on top of each muffin and press gently into the batter. Place the pan in the oven, lower the oven temperature to 325 F, and bake for 40 to 43 minutes, or until the muffins are golden brown and a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean. Set the pan on a cooling rack and cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The muffins are best the day they are baked, but they can be wrapped individually in a few layers of plastic wrap or stored in a single layer in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Oat Streusel Topping\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 cups (544 grams)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup (142 grams) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>1 1/4 cups plus 1 tablespoon (107 grams) old-fashioned oats\u003cbr>1/4 cup plus 3 1/2 tablespoons (106 grams) toasted wheat germ\u003cbr>1/2 cup plus 2 1/2 teaspoons (lightly packed) (50 grams) light brown sugar\u003cbr>2 tablespoons plus 1 1/4 teaspoons (29 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon (1.2 grams) ground cinnamon\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon (0.5 gram) freshly grated nutmeg\u003cbr>1/8 teaspoon (0.4 gram) kosher salt\u003cbr>1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise\u003cbr>4 ounces (113 grams) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/4 -inch pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine all of the ingredients except the vanilla bean and butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, and mix on low speed to combine. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean, add them to the dry mixture, and mix until evenly distributed. Toss in the butter and mix for about 1 minute, or until the butter is incorporated, with no large chunks remaining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer to a covered container or a resealable plastic bag. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or up to 2 days, or freeze for up to 1 month. Use the streusel while it is cold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on mixing muffin batter: When mixing a muffin batter, it is important not to overwhip the eggs, as that could cause the muffins to expand too much during baking and then deflate. The mixture may look broken after you whip in the eggs, but that is fine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on defrosting frozen baked muffins: Defrost the muffins still in the container so any condensation will form on the outside of the container, and not on the muffins. Place on a sheet pan and refresh in a 325 F oven (standard) for about 5 minutes, if desired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>Bouchon Bakery\u003cem> by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The renowned chef may be famous for his Michelin-star-winning restaurants, but he also runs a string of gourmet bakeries. He shares some favorite confections for Easter, with recipes for hot cross buns, marshmallow eggs and carrot muffins.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1364583115,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":115,"wordCount":4527},"headData":{"title":"Homemade Peeps, And More Easter Treats, A La Thomas Keller | KQED","description":"The renowned chef may be famous for his Michelin-star-winning restaurants, but he also runs a string of gourmet bakeries. He shares some favorite confections for Easter, with recipes for hot cross buns, marshmallow eggs and carrot muffins.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Homemade Peeps, And More Easter Treats, A La Thomas Keller","datePublished":"2013-03-29T17:02:34.000Z","dateModified":"2013-03-29T18:51:55.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"59142 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=59142","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/03/29/homemade-peeps-and-more-easter-treats-a-la-thomas-keller/","disqusTitle":"Homemade Peeps, And More Easter Treats, A La Thomas Keller","nprByline":"Camila Domonoske","nprStoryId":"175599684","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=175599684&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/29/175599684/homemade-peeps-and-more-easter-treats-a-la-thomas-keller?ft=3&f=175599684","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Fri, 29 Mar 2013 11:14:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Fri, 29 Mar 2013 04:00:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Fri, 29 Mar 2013 11:14:08 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/03/20130329_me_18.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1139&ft=3&f=175599684","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1175663029-db4b34.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1139&ft=3&f=175599684","path":"/bayareabites/59142/homemade-peeps-and-more-easter-treats-a-la-thomas-keller","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/03/20130329_me_18.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1139&ft=3&f=175599684","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59160\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_eggs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_eggs.jpg\" alt=\"Marshmallow eggs made with homemade flavored sugar are a colorful treat at Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills, Calif. To make them, pipe homemade marshmallow into hollow plastic eggs. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"351\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59160\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marshmallow eggs made with homemade flavored sugar are a colorful treat at Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills, Calif. To make them, pipe homemade marshmallow into hollow plastic eggs. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/29/175599684/homemade-peeps-and-more-easter-treats-a-la-thomas-keller\">Morning Edition\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/03/20130329_me_18.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by Camila Domonoske, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/29/175599684/homemade-peeps-and-more-easter-treats-a-la-thomas-keller\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/29/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/175620951/bouchon-bakery\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon-bakery-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"Bouchon Bakery by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-59162\">\u003c/a>After 40 long days of Lenten abstention, Easter is a time for indulgence. And for those of us who don't observe Lent — well, who can resist all those chocolate bunnies? It's a time for sweets, with or without an excuse.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you're looking for Easter indulgences that are a little more refined than Peeps and jelly beans,\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong> take a cue from renowned chef Thomas Keller, whose \u003ca href=\"http://bouchonbistro.com/\">Bouchon\u003c/a> restaurants are as famous for their baked goods as they are for their bistro fare.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Earlier this week, NPR's Renee Montagne visited the kitchen of the Bouchon restaurant and bakery in Beverly Hills, Calif., for a taste of some of Keller's takes on classic Easter sweets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most of us can't sneak a taste of Keller's hot cross bun frosting, like Montagne did, but thanks to the cookbook \u003cem>Bouchon Bakery\u003c/em>, which Keller co-authored, we can re-create some of those treats at home. Be warned, though: Keller's standards are exacting, and reproducing some of his items requires extra prep work — and maybe some shopping for new kitchen tools.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For precision baking, Keller says a scale is crucial; flour can easily shift in density, so measuring in cups is dangerously inaccurate, he argues.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Throw away your measuring cups,\" Keller tells Montagne. \"Buy yourself a gram scale instead.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Other items you might need that may not be kitchen staples, like acetate sheets and powdered food coloring, make cooking easier and cleanup far less stressful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keller led NPR through the process of making three Easter treats from his kitchen. Recipes for all three can be found farther down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59159\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhot-cross-buns.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhot-cross-buns-290x217.jpg\" alt='The Bouchon Bakery cookbook demonstrates how to apply the frosting \"cross\" on a pan of hot cross buns. Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books' width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59159\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Bouchon Bakery cookbook demonstrates how to apply the frosting \"cross\" on a pan of hot cross buns.\u003cbr> Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Hot Cross Buns\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"#buns\">Hot cross buns\u003c/a> date back hundreds of years and have traditionally been made on Good Friday. These dough rolls marked with a cross had a religious component, certainly, but they're also symbolic of another kind of devotion, Keller explains. \"Eating the hot cross bun with your friend meant that you'd be friends for life, so it really signified that kind of friendship in a positive way,\" he says. \"And then there's another myth: If you kept a bun for an entire year, it would not go moldy, and if you became sick and you ate it, it would cure whatever sickness you have.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bouchon's version is a rich brioche roll studded with dried currants and cranberries. Pastry chefs top the brioche with a cross of white confectioners' sugar frosting, spiced with cinnamon and cardamom. Myths aside, don't let them sit for a year: They're best eaten the same day they're baked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Marshmallow Eggs\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Keller has fond memories of that springtime staple, Peeps: \"They're very cute,\" he says, \"and, you know, they remind us of when we were kids. I mean, we ate those all the time.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bouchon's egg-shaped, homemade \u003ca href=\"#eggs\">marshmallows\u003c/a> turn that childhood memory into a grown-up treat. The marshmallow imparts a richness that can come as a surprise — Montagne describes it as \"almost like thick cream.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59163\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon-carrotmuffins.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon-carrotmuffins-290x216.jpg\" alt=\"Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery makes a variety of carrot-themed desserts — carrot cake, carrot muffins and carrot cupcakes — to celebrate Eas Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"216\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59163\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery makes a variety of carrot-themed desserts — carrot cake, carrot muffins and carrot cupcakes — to celebrate Eas Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Carrot Muffins\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The last recipe is a little less obviously Easter-related, but Keller says \u003ca href=\"#muffins\">carrot muffins\u003c/a> are a holiday staple. \"Bunnies eat carrots. We've got to have carrots involved in Easter, because that's Bugs Bunny's favorite vegetable,\" he jokes. And there's a benefit to having carrot muffins on your table of holiday indulgences: \"Everybody loves it, because in many ways you think it's really, really healthy for you,\" Keller says. \"It's a way of being sinful, but also being responsible to some health concerns.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you're making carrot muffins at home, the key is to start with the right kind of carrots: the small, skinny ones that come in bunches, rather than the larger \"horse carrots\" you might use for soup. \"We want to have the sweetest possible carrot that we can get,\" Keller says, which means carrots less than an inch in diameter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Look below for Keller's recipes for hot cross buns, marshmallow eggs and carrot muffins. Be sure to set aside ample time for these treats — they are all multiday projects, with some sort of overnight component. After all, you don't cook your way to three Michelin stars by taking shortcuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"buns\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Hot Cross Buns \u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 12 buns\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Buns\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup (122 grams) dried currants\u003cbr>1/2 cup (61 grams) dried cranberries\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon (3 grams) vanilla paste\u003cbr>Brioche Dough For Hot Cross Buns (recipe follows)\u003cbr>Egg Wash (recipe follows)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Icing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/4 cups (258 grams) powdered sugar\u003cbr>3/8 teaspoon (1 grams) ground cinnamon\u003cbr>3/8 teaspoon (1 grams) ground cardamom\u003cbr>2 1/2 tablespoons (40 grams) whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe was developed by Bouchon Bakery's head baker, Matthew McDonald. The buns are loaded with currants and cranberries and piped with an icing spiced with cinnamon and cardamom. It's the beguiling addition of cardamom to just the right amount of cinnamon in the icing, and the way the spices play off the fruit, that gives these buns their zing. Hot cross buns are an English tradition on Good Friday, but they're so good we hope you'll make them all year round. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need a quarter sheet pan and a disposable pastry bag. Buns baked in a convection oven will have a slightly higher rise and a more even color.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Buns \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the currants and cranberries in a medium bowl and pour 2 cups boiling water over them. Let sit for 5 minutes to plump the fruit, then drain and pat dry with paper towels. Dry the bowl, return the fruit to it, and toss with the vanilla paste. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray a large bowl with nonstick spray. Run a bowl scraper around the sides and down to the bottom of the bowl of brioche dough to release the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface, adding flour only as needed to keep it from sticking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59166\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhotcrossbuns2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchonhotcrossbuns2-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Thomas Keller demonstrates how to apply homemade icing to his hot cross buns. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59166\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chef Thomas Keller demonstrates how to apply homemade icing to his hot cross buns. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>With your hands, gently pat the dough into a rectangular shape. Pour the currant-cranberry mixture onto the dough and knead it into the dough (which will be sticky) to distribute it evenly. Pat the dough into a rectangle again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stretch the left side of the dough out and fold it over two-thirds of the dough, then stretch and fold it from the right side to the opposite side, as if you were folding a letter. Repeat the process, working from the bottom and then the top. Turn the dough over, lift it up with a bench scraper, and place it seam side down in the prepared bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a clean dish towel and let the dough sit at room temperature for 45 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Repeat the stretching and folding process, then return the dough to the bowl, seam side down, cover, and let sit for another 45 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray the quarter sheet pan with nonstick spray. Line the bottom with parchment paper and spray the paper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Use the bowl scraper to release the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface. Using a bench scraper, divide the dough into 12 equal portions (78 grams each). Cup your fingers around a portion of dough and, using the palm of your hand, roll it against the work surface to form a ball. Continue to roll until the dough is completely smooth. Repeat with the remaining dough. (When you become proficient at rolling with one hand, you can use both hands and roll 2 portions at a time.) Set the balls on the prepared pan in 3 rows of 4. Brush the tops with egg wash.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover the pan with a plastic tub or a cardboard box and let proof for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, until the balls have risen and are touching.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 325 F (convection) or 350 F (standard).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Brush the tops of the buns with egg wash again. Bake for 17 to 22 minutes in a convection oven, 25 to 30 minutes in a standard oven, until the tops are a rich golden brown and, when tested with a toothpick, the centers are baked through. Set the pan on a cooling rack and let cool completely. (If freezing, do not ice the buns at this point.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Icing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sift the sugar, cinnamon and cardamom into the bowl of a stand mixer. Fit the mixer with the paddle attachment and mix on the lowest setting for about 15 seconds to distribute the spices evenly. With the mixer running, slowly add the milk. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, increase the speed to low, and mix for 30 seconds to 1 minute, until smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer the icing to the pastry bag. Cut off 1/4 inch of the tip. Starting at the left side of the top corner bun, pipe a continuous strip of icing across the center of the first row of 3 buns. Repeat with the remaining 3 rows. Then repeat in the opposite direction, across the 3 rows of 4 buns, working in the opposite direction, to create a cross of frosting on each bun. Serve the whole pan, or cut into individual buns.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The buns are best the day they are baked, but they can be stored, before icing, wrapped tightly in a few layers of plastic wrap or in a single layer in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 week (see note on defrosting frozen baked brioche pastries).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on freezing unbaked brioche pastries: Unbaked brioche pastries can be frozen after they are formed, but before they are proofed, wrapped in a few layers of plastic wrap, for up to 1 week. When ready to use, remove from the freezer and proof the dough as directed, keeping in mind that the proofing may take up to 5 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on defrosting frozen baked brioche pastries: Defrost, still in the plastic wrap or in the container, in the refrigerator. Leaving the pastries wrapped or in the container means any condensation will form on the outside, not on the pastries. Place on a sheet pan and refresh in a 325°F oven (standard) for about 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Brioche Dough For Hot Cross Buns\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups plus 2 1/2 tablespoons (372 grams) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>2 3/8 teaspoons (8 grams) instant yeast\u003cbr>3 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons (44 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1 1/2 teaspoons (9 grams) fine sea salt\u003cbr>1/2 cup plus 3 1/2 tablespoons (186 grams) eggs\u003cbr>1/4 cup (63 grams) whole milk\u003cbr>5.8 ounces (167 grams) unsalted butter cut into 1/2 -inch cubes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Brioche is a bread that's enriched with butter and eggs. There are different ways of making it, with different proportions of butter. Everything should be at room temperature so the dough comes together beautifully. The dough then gets folded and is fermented in the refrigerator overnight.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To mix the dough, place the flour and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook and mix for about 15 seconds to distribute the yeast evenly. Add all of the remaining dough ingredients, except the butter, and mix on low speed for 4 minutes. Continue to mix on low speed for 30 minutes. (At this point there will be some dough sticking to the sides of the bowl.) Add the butter a few pieces at a time, incorporating each addition before adding the next. Stop and scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl and push the dough off the hook. Continue to mix for 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Egg Wash\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Break 1 or more eggs, as needed, into a small bowl and whip with a fork or small whisk to combine the white(s) and yolk(s) well. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer before using.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note: We use egg washes often. If you want a nice shine on a dough, give the dough two brushings of it: The first brushing acts as a sealer, and the second is more like a glaze. At the bakery, because we egg-wash great volumes of products, we put the egg wash, strained, into a spray gun, paint gun or airbrush. This not only gives us a uniform coating, it's also very gentle on the dough, which is important if it's a proofed and delicate croissant, for example. If you're only egg-washing a small quantity, use a pastry brush.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>Bouchon Bakery\u003cem> by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"eggs\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Marshmallow Eggs\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59161\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 193px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_keller.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchon_keller-193x290.jpg\" alt=\"Thomas Keller demonstrates how to prepare and open his recipe for his marshmallow eggs at his Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"193\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59161\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thomas Keller demonstrates how to prepare and open his recipe for his marshmallow eggs at his Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 12 eggs\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marshmallows, just mixed and still warm (recipes follow)\u003cbr>1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon (90 grams) white or colored decorating sugar, store-bought or homemade (recipes follow)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>At Easter, the team loves to make marshmallow eggs. When you serve them in all kinds of colors, they're a joy to behold, especially for kids. We make different flavors and colors, coat them in various decorative sugars, and place them in egg cartons. For vanilla eggs, we use plain sugar, but for the raspberry we use our raspberry sugar and for the lemon, our lemon sugar. When people first open the carton, they think it's filled with dyed Easter eggs, not marshmallows. Be sure to buy sturdy plastic eggs to use as molds; the cheaper ones are really flimsy. Note that the marshmallows and decorating sugar should rest overnight before coating the eggs.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need twelve two-piece plastic eggs, a clean egg carton, and a pastry bag with a \u003c/em>\u003cem>1/2-inch plain tip.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the plastic eggs are new, open them, wash them and dry thoroughly. Spray the inside of both halves of each egg with nonstick spray and set them in the egg carton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fill the pastry bag with the warm marshmallow mixture. Holding the tip close to the bottom of an egg half, slowly pull up as you fill the half completely; try not to leave any air pockets. Fill the other half and fit the top and bottom together — there will be some resistance, but they must be secure to form a perfectly shaped egg. Wipe off the excess marshmallow that oozes from the egg with a damp paper towel. Repeat with the remaining eggs. Stand the filled eggs in the egg carton and let them sit at room temperature overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the decorating sugar in a small bowl. Remove the eggs from the molds. Toss the eggs in the sugar and then stand them in the egg carton.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If they will be served within a few hours, let the eggs sit at room temperature. For longer storage, place the egg carton in a large covered container for up to 2 weeks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Vanilla Marshmallows\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 4 dozen 1-inch marshmallows (250 grams/8.8 ounces)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup (5 grams) powdered sugar\u003cbr>1/2 cup (6.4 grams) cornstarch\u003cbr>4 sheets (9.6 grams) silver leaf gelatin\u003cbr>1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (87 grams) egg whites\u003cbr>1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise\u003cbr>1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (225 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1/2 cup (112 grams) water\u003cbr>2 1/2 tablespoons (50 grams) light corn syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Marshmallows may seem mysterious and complex, but they're really easy — nothing more than meringue set with gelatin. If you can make a meringue, you can make your own marshmallows. They're playful and fun, and they can be made in different flavors. We make lemon, raspberry and vanilla marshmallows, but you could add jams or pistachio paste for different flavors (add 15 to 20 percent of the weight of the egg whites and sugar).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need an 8-inch-square baking pan, an 8-inch-square piece of acetate, and a Thermapen or other candy thermometer.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the powdered sugar and cornstarch together. Line the baking pan with plastic wrap and sprinkle the plastic wrap generously with the powdered sugar mixture; set the remainder aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the gelatin in a bowl of ice water to soften.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray one side of the piece of acetate with nonstick spray; set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the gelatin from the water and squeeze out excess water. Place the gelatin in a small metal bowl set over a small pot of simmering water and melt it (do not let it simmer), then reduce the heat and keep it warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, place the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add the seeds to the egg whites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the granulated sugar, water and corn syrup in a large saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then simmer for about 5 minutes, until the syrup reaches 250 F/121.1 C.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Letting the syrup continue to cook, turn the mixer to medium speed. The goal is to have the whites at medium peaks when the syrup reaches 281 to 284 F/138 to 140 C. Should the whites reach stiff peaks before the syrup reaches the proper temperature, reduce the mixer speed to the lowest setting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59165\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoneggs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoneggs.jpg\" alt=\"After the marshmallow has set, open the plastic shell and dip the egg in flavored and colored sugar, as Thomas Keller demonstrates here. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59165\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">After the marshmallow has set, open the plastic shell and dip the egg in flavored and colored sugar, as Thomas Keller demonstrates here. Photo: Doriane Raiman for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When the syrup reaches 281 to 284 F/138 to 140 C, remove it from the heat. Turn the mixer to medium speed and slowly add the syrup to the egg whites, pouring it between the side of the bowl and the whisk. Pour in the gelatin, increase the speed to medium-high, and mix for about 5 minutes, until the mixture is thickened, glossy and warm but not hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spray a spatula with nonstick spray. Spread the marshmallow evenly in the prepared pan. Top with the acetate, sprayed side down, and gently press it against the marshmallow to make the top perfectly smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Set a piece of parchment paper larger than the marshmallow on a large cutting board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the sheet of acetate. Coat the top of the marshmallow with some of the reserved powdered sugar mixture. Flip the marshmallow onto the parchment paper, remove the plastic wrap, and sprinkle with more of the powdered sugar mixture as necessary.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It can be difficult to cut marshmallows evenly. Spray a large chef's knife with nonstick spray and trim the sides of the marshmallow square, then cut into 1-inch cubes (or other shapes), using a ruler as a guide. Clean and respray the knife before each cut. If the marshmallows are sticky when you separate them, dust them lightly with additional powdered sugar mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The marshmallows can be stored in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Raspberry Marshmallows\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Omit the vanilla bean. If desired, add 2 drops red food coloring, preferably Chefmaster Red Red, to the warm marshmallow mixture and mix just to combine. Remove the bowl from the mixer stand and gently whisk in 12 grams/2 tablespoons raspberry powder. Spread the marshmallow in the pan and proceed as directed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Lemon Marshmallows\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Omit the vanilla bean. If desired, add 6 drops yellow food coloring, preferably Chefmaster Lemon Yellow, to the warm marshmallow mixture and mix just to combine. Add the grated zest of 2 lemons (12 grams/2 tablespoons) and mix to combine, then spread the marshmallow in the pan and proceed as directed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Recipe: Colored Decorating Sugar\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Raspberry Sugar\u003cem>\u003cbr>\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons (100 grams) large-crystal sparkling sugar\u003cbr>6 drops diluted citric acid (see Note)\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoons (1 gram) dehydrated raspberry powder, or as needed\u003cbr>Powdered oil-soluble red food coloring\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For Lemon Sugar\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons (100 grams) large-crystal sparkling sugar\u003cbr>6 drops diluted citric acid (see Note)\u003cbr>3/4 teaspoons (1.5 grams) grated zest of 1/2 lemon (use a rasp grater)\u003cbr>Powdered oil-soluble yellow food coloring\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Don't be tempted to use liquid food coloring; it won't work here. If you'd like, wear a pair of plastic gloves to avoid staining your hands.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the sugar in a small bowl. Stir in the citric acid, raspberry powder or lemon zest, and just the amount of food coloring that fits on the tip of a small paring knife (less than a pinch), then use your hands to work the mixture together. If you'd like, add a little additional powder and/or food coloring. Spread the sugar on a baking sheet and let it dry overnight at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note: To make diluted citric acid, combine 3/8 teaspoon (2 grams) citric acid and 3/4 teaspoon (2 grams) water in a small cup and stir to dissolve the citric acid.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>Bouchon Bakery\u003cem> by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"muffins\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Carrot Muffins\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59164\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoncarrot-muffins.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/03/bouchoncarrot-muffins-290x290.jpg\" alt=\"The Bouchon Bakery cookbook highlights the streusel topping on Keller's carrot muffin Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books\" width=\"290\" height=\"290\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-59164\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Bouchon Bakery cookbook highlights the streusel topping on Keller's carrot muffin Photo: Deborah Jones/Artisan Books\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 muffins\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Batter\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 cups plus 2 teaspoons (180 grams) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>1/2 plus 1/8 teaspoon (3.11 grams) baking soda\u003cbr>1/4 teaspoon (1 grams) baking powder\u003cbr>3/4 plus 1/8 teaspoon (2.3 grams) ground cinnamon\u003cbr>1/2 plus 1/8 teaspoon (2 grams) kosher salt\u003cbr>1 cup plus 2 teaspoons (207 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (142 grams) canola oil\u003cbr>1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise\u003cbr>1/3 cup (80 grams) eggs\u003cbr>1 3/4 cups (212 grams) shredded carrots\u003cbr>Generous 1 1/4 cups (180 grams) Oat Streusel Topping (recipe follows)\u003cbr clear=\"all\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You'll need a 6-cup jumbo muffin pan and muffin papers.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is a good basic carrot muffin, and we sprinkle it with a great oat streusel for even more flavor and texture.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Carrots — and other vegetables, such as zucchini — add moisture to muffin and cake batters. Carrots are so plentiful that we often take them for granted, but all carrots are not alike. I hope you'll pay a little extra for bunch carrots, carrots still with their tops, rather than the ones in plastic bags. The quality makes a big difference when they're a major part of the recipe.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe uses vegetable oil, not butter, and if you omit the streusel, it is dairy free.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the flour in a medium bowl. Sift in the baking soda, baking powder and cinnamon. Add the salt and whisk together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the sugar and oil in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and mix on low speed for about 1 minute. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean, add them to the sugar mixture, and mix for 30 seconds to distribute the seeds evenly. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, add the eggs, and mix on low speed for about 1 minute, until just incorporated. Add the dry ingredients in 2 additions, mixing on low speed for 15 seconds after each, or until just combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the bowl from the mixer stand and scrape the bottom of the bowl to incorporate any dry ingredients that may have settled there. Stir in the carrots. Transfer the batter to a covered container and refrigerate overnight, or for up to 36 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To bake the muffins: Preheat the oven to 425 F (standard). Line the muffin pan with the muffin papers and spray the papers with nonstick spray.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spoon the batter evenly into the papers, stopping 3/8 inch from the top (135 grams each). Sprinkle 30 grams/3 tablespoons of the streusel on top of each muffin and press gently into the batter. Place the pan in the oven, lower the oven temperature to 325 F, and bake for 40 to 43 minutes, or until the muffins are golden brown and a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean. Set the pan on a cooling rack and cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The muffins are best the day they are baked, but they can be wrapped individually in a few layers of plastic wrap or stored in a single layer in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For The Oat Streusel Topping\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 cups (544 grams)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup (142 grams) all-purpose flour\u003cbr>1 1/4 cups plus 1 tablespoon (107 grams) old-fashioned oats\u003cbr>1/4 cup plus 3 1/2 tablespoons (106 grams) toasted wheat germ\u003cbr>1/2 cup plus 2 1/2 teaspoons (lightly packed) (50 grams) light brown sugar\u003cbr>2 tablespoons plus 1 1/4 teaspoons (29 grams) granulated sugar\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon (1.2 grams) ground cinnamon\u003cbr>1/2 teaspoon (0.5 gram) freshly grated nutmeg\u003cbr>1/8 teaspoon (0.4 gram) kosher salt\u003cbr>1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise\u003cbr>4 ounces (113 grams) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/4 -inch pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine all of the ingredients except the vanilla bean and butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, and mix on low speed to combine. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean, add them to the dry mixture, and mix until evenly distributed. Toss in the butter and mix for about 1 minute, or until the butter is incorporated, with no large chunks remaining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer to a covered container or a resealable plastic bag. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or up to 2 days, or freeze for up to 1 month. Use the streusel while it is cold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on mixing muffin batter: When mixing a muffin batter, it is important not to overwhip the eggs, as that could cause the muffins to expand too much during baking and then deflate. The mixture may look broken after you whip in the eggs, but that is fine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* Note on defrosting frozen baked muffins: Defrost the muffins still in the container so any condensation will form on the outside of the container, and not on the muffins. Place on a sheet pan and refresh in a 325 F oven (standard) for about 5 minutes, if desired.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Excerpted from \u003c/em>Bouchon Bakery\u003cem> by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/59142/homemade-peeps-and-more-easter-treats-a-la-thomas-keller","authors":["byline_bayareabites_59142"],"categories":["bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_2638","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_2044","bayareabites_11472","bayareabites_2043","bayareabites_286","bayareabites_10921","bayareabites_3787"],"featImg":"bayareabites_59143","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_43903":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_43903","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"43903","score":null,"sort":[1338400821000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"should-sustainability-be-a-factor-in-restaurant-food","title":"Should Sustainability be a Factor in Restaurant Food?","publishDate":1338400821,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/elizabeth-meltz.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/elizabeth-meltz.jpg\" alt=\"Elizabeth Meltz\" title=\"Elizabeth Meltz\" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43986\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Elizabeth Meltz, the director of sustainability for Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich and fellow chefs, checks out the source of sustainable salmon in Norway. Photo: Cheryl Forberg\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchlaundry.com/\">The French Laundry\u003c/a>'s \u003ca href=\"http://tkrg.org/\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a> created quite the media maelstrom when he told the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/16/dining/for-them-a-great-meal-tops-good-intentions.html?_r=1\">\u003cem>New York Times' Julia Moskin\u003c/em>\u003c/a> that he didn't think concerns around sustainable food matters were the responsibility of top chefs like himself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flavor and creativity rule, Keller implied, debates around \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/SeafoodWatch/web/sfw_factsheet.aspx?fid=60\">bluefin tuna\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.usatoday.com/news/nation/story/2012-05-22/foie-gras-california-ban-humane/55143812/1\">foie gras\u003c/a> be damned. And in the same story, his buddy Andoni Luis Aduriz -- the Spanish chef behind the celebrated \u003ca href=\"http://www.mugaritz.com/\">Mugaritz\u003c/a> -- agreed, calling Keller brave for speaking honestly on a simmering culinary controversy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://grist.org/food/chefs-disregard-for-environment-leaves-a-bad-taste/\">Not everyone concurs with Keller's point of view\u003c/a>, of course. Some might see a celebrity chef such as himself as a key player in the fight to protect our food supply and planet. Others, though, prefer their restaurateurs to excel in the kitchen and on the plate and leave saving the earth to do-gooder government agencies, scientific researchers, and nonprofit activists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A columnist in last week's \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nypost.com/p/news/opinion/opedcolumnists/sustain_this_mario_v3D15YXykKYbYGW0KsVd4L\">New York Post\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, even lambasted sustainable food advocates in the fine dining biz for hypocrisy -- singling out players like \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariobatali.com/\">Mario Batali\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://joebastianich.com/\">Joe Bastianich\u003c/a> -- in an industry better known for excess and exploitation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given this ruckus among the restaurant elite, it seems a good time to check in with the director of food safety and sustainability for the \u003ca href=\"http://bandbhg.com/\">Batali & Bastianich Hospitality Group\u003c/a>, a national restaurant empire that includes Babbo, Eataly, and Del Posto in New York City, and Osteria Mozza and Pizzeria Mozza in Los Angeles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/clams-pasta400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/clams-pasta400.jpg\" alt=\"pasta and clams\" title=\"pasta and clams\" width=\"400\" height=\"370\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44016\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sustainable seafood remains a hot-button issue for consumers and chefs. Photo: Kelly Campbell\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elizabeth Meltz, who talked about the green dining experience at \u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com/tedx/events/744\">Tedx Manhattan's \"Changing The Way We Eat\"\u003c/a> last year, attended the recent Sustainable Foods Institute, a media conference that accompanies the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/vi/vi_events/cooking/\">Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Cooking for Solutions\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She shared her thoughts on the \u003cem>Post\u003c/em>'s pronouncements, serving sustainable meals, and the compostable container conundrum with Bay Area Bites this week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What exactly does the director of food safety & sustainability for Batali & Bastianich do? What does a typical day look like?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If only there ever was a \"typical day.\" Some days are totally dominated by food safety and others by sustainability, and sometimes entire weeks can focus on one or the other. For example, last month was focused heavily on finishing up Pizzeria Mozza Orange County's LEED Silver Certification, but come August and September our New York City restaurants start getting inspected again by the health department so I will be running around dealing with that. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Did you create your own position and how did you get into this line of work? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did create my own job, and I highly recommend it. When it first opened in 2006, I was a line cook at Del Posto, Mario, Joe and Lidia's four star Italian restaurant in New York's Meat Packing District. I worked for the amazingly progressive genius executive chef Mark Ladner. We clicked and I transitioned out of the kitchen and into the office- creating a hodgepodge position of HR, executive assistant, green guru and food safety expert. The food safety and sustainability elements emerged as ones that were replicable and applicable to all of our restaurants (currently 18 in the US). Oh, and I'm a department of ONE.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you work with chefs, managers, front of the house, kitchen staff, wait crew -- or all of the above?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of the above. Both food safety and sustainability only work if there is buy in from the entire staff. Chefs and managers help me implement the initial changes or trainings we might be doing or working on, but the commitment and enthusiasm from the staff -- including wait staff and dishwashers, is what carries the change. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Does your experience as a line cook help in your current job?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having a kitchen background is a huge advantage in my current position -- because I've been there, I don't make absurd suggestions that I know won't work, and chefs usually appreciate that. I went to culinary school because I loved to cook but I swore I would never work in a kitchen outside of the required three month externship. Four years later I was still working in some of New York City's and Italy's best kitchens. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/meat400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/meat400.jpg\" alt=\" meats\" title=\" meats\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43994\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Where meat comes from -- and how it was raised -- is a top concern for many diners. Photo: Kelly Campbell\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chefs have reputations for strong opinions about what goes down in -- and comes out of -- their kitchens. How do you navigate that?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We are a chef-driven restaurant group so when it comes to sustainable food purchasing I make suggestions instead of issuing edicts. Luckily for me I work with a talented group of eco-minded chefs who are capable of balancing their commitment to the environment with making food that tastes good. As far as the food safety requirements and some of the non-food related green stuff, they know Mario and Joe wholeheartedly believe in it, so they are on board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What kinds of things do you address on the food safety front: Is it all about food poisoning, sourcing reviews, and hygiene practices?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We comply fully with all local and state health department guidelines. My job is to keep up with these codes, keep the chefs and managers up to date, and then inspect, train, and reinforce. I track outbreaks and recalls and keep them abreast of these as well. We do food safety and food allergen training for front-of-house staff. We take these things seriously. Each restaurant is capable of dealing with the rare food poisoning concern, but if there ever is an issue that needs an extra hand, I deal with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What about the sustainability side of your job?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's like vapor, it can expand endlessly, from testing a new electrolyzed water technology to investigating a hydroponic garden technology, to partnering with the New York Botanical Garden for Mario's edible garden beds. Each of our restaurants is a certified green restaurant (or is in the process of being certified), and maintaining that in and of itself can be a full-time job. You name it, it comes under my umbrella: Whether it's visiting our compost facility to make sure our waste is going where it should be going or screening the movie \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://endoftheline.com/\">The End of the Line\u003c/a>\u003c/em> to our staff so they know what is happening to our oceans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Consider: Fois gras, bluefin tuna, and factory-farmed meat. How do you handle such sustainability concerns? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As an almost all Italian restaurant group I don't have to deal with foie gras. Bluefin tuna is the only thing we actually banned our chefs from purchasing altogether (now that I just gave that whole spiel about how I never tell them what to do). I have since had some second thoughts about that as the fishermen who are going about procuring bluefin the correct way deserve support. Lastly, not a fan of industrially-raised meat. I cannot say we do not purchase any at all, but we purchase a great deal of our meat from \u003ca href=\"http://www.heritagefoodsusa.com/\">Heritage Foods USA\u003c/a>, and were one of the very first restaurant groups to do so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What do you love about your job and what's challenging?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's not to love? I love everything about it. To-go containers are challenging -- don't get me started. Each municipality accepts different items, the chasing arrows and the numbers on the bottom of the containers are totally misleading, compostable containers are only compostable in a compost facility and most cities won't pick up compost anyway, so what are you going to do with it? It makes me so mad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What kind of skill set or personality do you need for a gig like yours?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The food safety part definitely requires that you tap into your inner nerd. I also think balance is really important, and understanding that sustainability isn't sexy all the time -- it's not all about solar panels. Sometimes it's about a boring faucet aerator.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/mario-batali.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/mario-batali.jpg\" alt=\"Mario Batali\" title=\"Mario Batali\" width=\"349\" height=\"262\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43990\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mario Batali. Photo: Melanie Dunea \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Would you care to respond to the recent Batali-Bastianich bashing in the \u003cem>New York Post\u003c/em>?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd like to clarify some points. \u003ca href=\"http://www.meatlessmonday.com/\">Meatless Monday\u003c/a> is not simply about adding vegetarian options to the menu (though that is the physical manifestation of it.) Meatless Monday is a message of moderation, reminding the world that the same chef who was famously photographed with sausage links around his neck was also photographed with kohlrabi on his head in \u003cem>TIME\u003c/em> magazine. Going meatless once a week can reduce a person's risk for chronic preventable conditions like cardiovascular disease, diabetes and obesity. It can also help reduce an individual's carbon footprint and save resources like fresh water and fossil fuels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The simple answer to Chef Keller’s question: “Is it really my responsibility to worry about carbon footprint?” is, YES. It is everyone's job to worry about sustainability. If he needs a more selfish motivation: he should worry because if he doesn't choose wisely ten years from now he won’t have any fish left with which to create his art.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/WjWDm80O21A\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The head of sustainability and food safety for the Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich restaurant empire tells Sarah Henry what her job entails -- and offers a rebuttal to critics who sniff at whether the culinary world has a role to play in sustainable food matters.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1338400280,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":true,"hasChartOrMap":true,"iframeSrcs":["http://www.youtube.com/embed/WjWDm80O21A"],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":37,"wordCount":1558},"headData":{"title":"Should Sustainability be a Factor in Restaurant Food? | KQED","description":"The head of sustainability and food safety for the Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich restaurant empire tells Sarah Henry what her job entails -- and offers a rebuttal to critics who sniff at whether the culinary world has a role to play in sustainable food matters.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Should Sustainability be a Factor in Restaurant Food?","datePublished":"2012-05-30T18:00:21.000Z","dateModified":"2012-05-30T17:51:20.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"43903 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=43903","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/05/30/should-sustainability-be-a-factor-in-restaurant-food/","disqusTitle":"Should Sustainability be a Factor in Restaurant Food?","path":"/bayareabites/43903/should-sustainability-be-a-factor-in-restaurant-food","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/elizabeth-meltz.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/elizabeth-meltz.jpg\" alt=\"Elizabeth Meltz\" title=\"Elizabeth Meltz\" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43986\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Elizabeth Meltz, the director of sustainability for Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich and fellow chefs, checks out the source of sustainable salmon in Norway. Photo: Cheryl Forberg\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchlaundry.com/\">The French Laundry\u003c/a>'s \u003ca href=\"http://tkrg.org/\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a> created quite the media maelstrom when he told the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/16/dining/for-them-a-great-meal-tops-good-intentions.html?_r=1\">\u003cem>New York Times' Julia Moskin\u003c/em>\u003c/a> that he didn't think concerns around sustainable food matters were the responsibility of top chefs like himself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flavor and creativity rule, Keller implied, debates around \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/SeafoodWatch/web/sfw_factsheet.aspx?fid=60\">bluefin tuna\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.usatoday.com/news/nation/story/2012-05-22/foie-gras-california-ban-humane/55143812/1\">foie gras\u003c/a> be damned. And in the same story, his buddy Andoni Luis Aduriz -- the Spanish chef behind the celebrated \u003ca href=\"http://www.mugaritz.com/\">Mugaritz\u003c/a> -- agreed, calling Keller brave for speaking honestly on a simmering culinary controversy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://grist.org/food/chefs-disregard-for-environment-leaves-a-bad-taste/\">Not everyone concurs with Keller's point of view\u003c/a>, of course. Some might see a celebrity chef such as himself as a key player in the fight to protect our food supply and planet. Others, though, prefer their restaurateurs to excel in the kitchen and on the plate and leave saving the earth to do-gooder government agencies, scientific researchers, and nonprofit activists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A columnist in last week's \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nypost.com/p/news/opinion/opedcolumnists/sustain_this_mario_v3D15YXykKYbYGW0KsVd4L\">New York Post\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, even lambasted sustainable food advocates in the fine dining biz for hypocrisy -- singling out players like \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariobatali.com/\">Mario Batali\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://joebastianich.com/\">Joe Bastianich\u003c/a> -- in an industry better known for excess and exploitation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given this ruckus among the restaurant elite, it seems a good time to check in with the director of food safety and sustainability for the \u003ca href=\"http://bandbhg.com/\">Batali & Bastianich Hospitality Group\u003c/a>, a national restaurant empire that includes Babbo, Eataly, and Del Posto in New York City, and Osteria Mozza and Pizzeria Mozza in Los Angeles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/clams-pasta400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/clams-pasta400.jpg\" alt=\"pasta and clams\" title=\"pasta and clams\" width=\"400\" height=\"370\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44016\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sustainable seafood remains a hot-button issue for consumers and chefs. Photo: Kelly Campbell\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elizabeth Meltz, who talked about the green dining experience at \u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com/tedx/events/744\">Tedx Manhattan's \"Changing The Way We Eat\"\u003c/a> last year, attended the recent Sustainable Foods Institute, a media conference that accompanies the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/vi/vi_events/cooking/\">Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Cooking for Solutions\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She shared her thoughts on the \u003cem>Post\u003c/em>'s pronouncements, serving sustainable meals, and the compostable container conundrum with Bay Area Bites this week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What exactly does the director of food safety & sustainability for Batali & Bastianich do? What does a typical day look like?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If only there ever was a \"typical day.\" Some days are totally dominated by food safety and others by sustainability, and sometimes entire weeks can focus on one or the other. For example, last month was focused heavily on finishing up Pizzeria Mozza Orange County's LEED Silver Certification, but come August and September our New York City restaurants start getting inspected again by the health department so I will be running around dealing with that. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Did you create your own position and how did you get into this line of work? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did create my own job, and I highly recommend it. When it first opened in 2006, I was a line cook at Del Posto, Mario, Joe and Lidia's four star Italian restaurant in New York's Meat Packing District. I worked for the amazingly progressive genius executive chef Mark Ladner. We clicked and I transitioned out of the kitchen and into the office- creating a hodgepodge position of HR, executive assistant, green guru and food safety expert. The food safety and sustainability elements emerged as ones that were replicable and applicable to all of our restaurants (currently 18 in the US). Oh, and I'm a department of ONE.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you work with chefs, managers, front of the house, kitchen staff, wait crew -- or all of the above?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of the above. Both food safety and sustainability only work if there is buy in from the entire staff. Chefs and managers help me implement the initial changes or trainings we might be doing or working on, but the commitment and enthusiasm from the staff -- including wait staff and dishwashers, is what carries the change. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Does your experience as a line cook help in your current job?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having a kitchen background is a huge advantage in my current position -- because I've been there, I don't make absurd suggestions that I know won't work, and chefs usually appreciate that. I went to culinary school because I loved to cook but I swore I would never work in a kitchen outside of the required three month externship. Four years later I was still working in some of New York City's and Italy's best kitchens. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/meat400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/meat400.jpg\" alt=\" meats\" title=\" meats\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43994\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Where meat comes from -- and how it was raised -- is a top concern for many diners. Photo: Kelly Campbell\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chefs have reputations for strong opinions about what goes down in -- and comes out of -- their kitchens. How do you navigate that?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We are a chef-driven restaurant group so when it comes to sustainable food purchasing I make suggestions instead of issuing edicts. Luckily for me I work with a talented group of eco-minded chefs who are capable of balancing their commitment to the environment with making food that tastes good. As far as the food safety requirements and some of the non-food related green stuff, they know Mario and Joe wholeheartedly believe in it, so they are on board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What kinds of things do you address on the food safety front: Is it all about food poisoning, sourcing reviews, and hygiene practices?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We comply fully with all local and state health department guidelines. My job is to keep up with these codes, keep the chefs and managers up to date, and then inspect, train, and reinforce. I track outbreaks and recalls and keep them abreast of these as well. We do food safety and food allergen training for front-of-house staff. We take these things seriously. Each restaurant is capable of dealing with the rare food poisoning concern, but if there ever is an issue that needs an extra hand, I deal with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What about the sustainability side of your job?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's like vapor, it can expand endlessly, from testing a new electrolyzed water technology to investigating a hydroponic garden technology, to partnering with the New York Botanical Garden for Mario's edible garden beds. Each of our restaurants is a certified green restaurant (or is in the process of being certified), and maintaining that in and of itself can be a full-time job. You name it, it comes under my umbrella: Whether it's visiting our compost facility to make sure our waste is going where it should be going or screening the movie \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://endoftheline.com/\">The End of the Line\u003c/a>\u003c/em> to our staff so they know what is happening to our oceans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Consider: Fois gras, bluefin tuna, and factory-farmed meat. How do you handle such sustainability concerns? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As an almost all Italian restaurant group I don't have to deal with foie gras. Bluefin tuna is the only thing we actually banned our chefs from purchasing altogether (now that I just gave that whole spiel about how I never tell them what to do). I have since had some second thoughts about that as the fishermen who are going about procuring bluefin the correct way deserve support. Lastly, not a fan of industrially-raised meat. I cannot say we do not purchase any at all, but we purchase a great deal of our meat from \u003ca href=\"http://www.heritagefoodsusa.com/\">Heritage Foods USA\u003c/a>, and were one of the very first restaurant groups to do so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What do you love about your job and what's challenging?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's not to love? I love everything about it. To-go containers are challenging -- don't get me started. Each municipality accepts different items, the chasing arrows and the numbers on the bottom of the containers are totally misleading, compostable containers are only compostable in a compost facility and most cities won't pick up compost anyway, so what are you going to do with it? It makes me so mad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What kind of skill set or personality do you need for a gig like yours?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The food safety part definitely requires that you tap into your inner nerd. I also think balance is really important, and understanding that sustainability isn't sexy all the time -- it's not all about solar panels. Sometimes it's about a boring faucet aerator.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/mario-batali.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/mario-batali.jpg\" alt=\"Mario Batali\" title=\"Mario Batali\" width=\"349\" height=\"262\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43990\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mario Batali. Photo: Melanie Dunea \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Would you care to respond to the recent Batali-Bastianich bashing in the \u003cem>New York Post\u003c/em>?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd like to clarify some points. \u003ca href=\"http://www.meatlessmonday.com/\">Meatless Monday\u003c/a> is not simply about adding vegetarian options to the menu (though that is the physical manifestation of it.) Meatless Monday is a message of moderation, reminding the world that the same chef who was famously photographed with sausage links around his neck was also photographed with kohlrabi on his head in \u003cem>TIME\u003c/em> magazine. Going meatless once a week can reduce a person's risk for chronic preventable conditions like cardiovascular disease, diabetes and obesity. It can also help reduce an individual's carbon footprint and save resources like fresh water and fossil fuels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The simple answer to Chef Keller’s question: “Is it really my responsibility to worry about carbon footprint?” is, YES. It is everyone's job to worry about sustainability. If he needs a more selfish motivation: he should worry because if he doesn't choose wisely ten years from now he won’t have any fish left with which to create his art.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/WjWDm80O21A\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/43903/should-sustainability-be-a-factor-in-restaurant-food","authors":["5125"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_10490","bayareabites_956","bayareabites_14742","bayareabites_10492","bayareabites_10491","bayareabites_3787"],"featImg":"bayareabites_43986","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_12422":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_12422","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"12422","score":null,"sort":[1271169354000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"ad-hoc-temporary-relief-from-fragapane-phobia","title":"Ad Hoc: Temporary Relief From Fragapane Phobia","publishDate":1271169354,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/04/ad-hoc500.jpg\" alt=\"ad hoc meal\" title=\"ad hoc meal\" width=\"500\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12432\">\u003cbr>\nOn Sunday, I celebrated my birthday -- along with \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vincent_Gallo\">Vincent Gallo\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joss_Stone\">Joss Stone\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethel_Skakel_Kennedy\">Ethel Kennedy\u003c/a>. When I was a child, birthday fetes were pretty sloppy, far wilder than any of the parties I attended in high school or college. They went down at the zoo, parks, public pools, and pizza buffets, where sweaty kids, red-faced from exertion and sauce, bounced around and challenged each other to contests of consumption. There was always cake, homemade at mine. While sweets have never been my thing, leftover cake for breakfast -- straight from the fridge, with hard cold frosting that peels right off -- was an irresistible coda to the annual gathering, so appealing that, on several occasions, in a rare greedy moment, I actually asked my mom to bake and stow away a second cake -- just in case my friends managed to vaporize the first. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't remember specific birthday parties so well. Somewhere along the way, they stopped happening, probably when dessert-oriented affairs lost their luster -- and I stopped caring about getting older in the first place. Years unfolded like symphonies then, long, meandering and dense, narratives stretching out, passing through movements, moods and phases. Now, they are proggy rock productions, half as long yet still intricate and hefty. Ten birthdays from Sunday, they will be pop songs, economical, straight to the point -- verse, chorus, verse, chorus, bridge, chorus, out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My birthday was a big one, a landmark -- or so I have been told. No one over 35 sympathizes when someone whines about turning 30. \"Big deal\" and \"get over it\" are common responses. At the corner store on Friday, I was buying some beer. \"So, how old are you, bro?\" the cashier suddenly asked -- a now familiar casual alternative to actually requesting identification. I told him I was a few days away from turning 30, and he groaned. \"Bro, 30 blows,\" he sighed, shaking his head, dropping my six-pack into a paper bag. \"My 20s were awesome, and then it went downhill.\" I shrugged. \"I'm don't care,\" I said. \"But, you know -- I'm 32, and you're just 30,\" he added helpfully -- hopefully starting to feel like an idiot. \"It won't be too bad.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The arrival of spring wasn't always about green garlic, favas, fresh peas, asparagus, and the start of the N.B.A. playoffs. Beginning with my 25th -- a silly excuse for a milestone, really -- it revolved around anticipating and dreading my birthday -- so much that I actually tried to keep the date a secret for a while. I have come a long way. Now, I realize though that my problem with birthdays isn't so much an aversion to growing older as the idea of celebrating the passage of time so personally. I don't want my friends to gather and toast me just because I'm a littler older. I don't want to be the center of that kind of attention. Some people organize dinners for themselves, invite everyone they know to bars, and throw house parties. Me, I only want to get away. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This past weekend, instead of donning skins and venturing off into the woods alone to nibble rodents and pick berries, I faced the dawn of my fourth decade with calm and an appropriate aura of maturity. I went to Wine Country with my girlfriend, but we did not go to wineries, take hikes, or shop. Instead, we watched cooking shows and basketball from a bed at a Best Western smelling fairly strongly of cat, sweat and old coffee, napped, and left our dark little room only to eat -- at \u003ca href=\"http://www.adhocrestaurant.com/\">Ad Hoc\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Keller\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a>'s two-and-a-half-year-old restaurant in \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yountville,_California\">Yountville\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Offering a single family-style menu on every night that it is open, Ad Hoc suits a birthday dinner. The four-course menu -- a salad, an entree, a cheese, and a dessert -- is announced via email every morning. Unless you have a dietary aversion to something, you eat what is offered. The relative inflexibility of a meal at Ad Hoc evokes the inevitable march of birthdays. You don't get to choose how fast you get older; you just age. If you make a reservation three months in advance, and you find out veal will be served, and you happen not to like veal, you either stay home or give veal another chance. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Downtown Yountville didn't impress me much. As we rolled through, the buildings seemed silly and new, as if part of a set. Even signs pointing out places of note rubbed me the wrong way. They were narrow wooden rectangles, the names printed or carved on in quirky fonts, reminiscent of signage at campsites and in tourist-heavy Gold Rush towns. As we crossed Washington St., ambling towards the restaurant, a middle-aged man in a two-tone North Face jacket -- literally, a city slicker -- walked past with his party. \"I'm gonna retire here,\" he said emphatically to the woman with an arm tucked under his. I would rather chug acid rain, I thought, as a few ominous drops splashed symbolically from the sky. Yet when we stepped into Ad Hoc, all gripes vanished. Warm, hungry, we sat down at our table, and just as I flung open the brown folder containing the wine list, the opening strains of Michael Jackson's Beethoven-indebted \u003ca href=\"http://www.metacafe.com/watch/sy-13406417/michael_jackson_will_you_be_there_official_music_video/\">\"Will You Be There\"\u003c/a> wafted over from invisible stereo speakers like steam rolling off a roast. Despite its popcorn-spiritual lyrical heft, hearing it at that moment made me feel quite peaceful, comfortable with my impending birthday, and even more overjoyed than usual to be spending it with the person sitting across from me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The salad and a flute of Cremant du Jura arrived before I could feel too weird about digging a song off the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Free_Willy\">Free Willy\u003c/a> soundtrack. The salad was the kind of California comfort food Californians should be proud of. Every ingredient was beautiful, presented artfully, and perfectly cooked. The beans were leprechaun-green, simultaneously snappy and slippery. There were sweet pale green apple slices, curling wafers of rose-colored radish, thicker potato coins, soft and creamy, melting flakes of salt, frisee and fried polenta cubes, crusty brown on the outside, still oozing within. It was actually exciting, a humble masterpiece. With lovely, harmonious flavors, the dish celebrated produce but without an dulling, dogmatic degree of simplicity and purity. An herb-crusted lamb sirloin followed, majestic pink hunks over pine nuts, golden raisins, buttered barley, and rainbow chard in a silver serving dish, and, after that, a raw milk \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/prodinfo.asp?number=VERMAYR\">\"Vermont Ayr,\"\u003c/a> nutty and sour, perfect with roasted almonds, pistachios, and pecans, and drizzles of orange blossom honey. The dinner ended with a light, creamy bread pudding studded with croissant chunks, chocolate chips and bits of medjool date. The evening concluded with an episode of \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnetwork.com/iron-chef-america/index.html\">Iron Chef\u003c/a> back at the hotel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the morning, we ate a free continental breakfast at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariecallenders.com/\">Marie Callender's\u003c/a> across from the inn. We drove home in a gale of rain, planning to stop at \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleybowl.com/\">Berkeley Bowl\u003c/a> for cheap sushi and groceries before heading into San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I thought about Ad Hoc on the way home. In that it was originally conceived as a temporary establishment, the restaurant sort of evokes life itself. Life is, of course, very temporary. It starts, sometimes accidentally, often unsurely, and you don't know when it will end. Hopefully, it keeps going, each birthday ticking off another little notch in time's passing, ending only after you get to do most of the things you want to do. Ad Hoc has kept going, much longer than Keller anticipated it would. It turned out to be fun, a winning concept -- unique, exciting, and relatively affordable -- so it was not swiftly reconfigured as a burger joint or another Keller-ific experiment. It was allowed to simply continue, to breathe and evolve. I feel privileged to do the same. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Ad Hoc has kept going, much longer than Keller anticipated it would. It turned out to be fun, a winning concept -- unique, exciting, and relatively affordable -- so it was not swiftly reconfigured as a burger joint or another Keller-ific experiment. It was allowed to simply continue, to breathe and evolve. It's a privilege to do the same. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1271169354,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":12,"wordCount":1331},"headData":{"title":"Ad Hoc: Temporary Relief From Fragapane Phobia | KQED","description":"Ad Hoc has kept going, much longer than Keller anticipated it would. It turned out to be fun, a winning concept -- unique, exciting, and relatively affordable -- so it was not swiftly reconfigured as a burger joint or another Keller-ific experiment. It was allowed to simply continue, to breathe and evolve. It's a privilege to do the same. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Ad Hoc: Temporary Relief From Fragapane Phobia","datePublished":"2010-04-13T14:35:54.000Z","dateModified":"2010-04-13T14:35:54.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"12422 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=12422","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/04/13/ad-hoc-temporary-relief-from-fragapane-phobia/","disqusTitle":"Ad Hoc: Temporary Relief From Fragapane Phobia","path":"/bayareabites/12422/ad-hoc-temporary-relief-from-fragapane-phobia","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp> \u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/04/ad-hoc500.jpg\" alt=\"ad hoc meal\" title=\"ad hoc meal\" width=\"500\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-12432\">\u003cbr>\nOn Sunday, I celebrated my birthday -- along with \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vincent_Gallo\">Vincent Gallo\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joss_Stone\">Joss Stone\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethel_Skakel_Kennedy\">Ethel Kennedy\u003c/a>. When I was a child, birthday fetes were pretty sloppy, far wilder than any of the parties I attended in high school or college. They went down at the zoo, parks, public pools, and pizza buffets, where sweaty kids, red-faced from exertion and sauce, bounced around and challenged each other to contests of consumption. There was always cake, homemade at mine. While sweets have never been my thing, leftover cake for breakfast -- straight from the fridge, with hard cold frosting that peels right off -- was an irresistible coda to the annual gathering, so appealing that, on several occasions, in a rare greedy moment, I actually asked my mom to bake and stow away a second cake -- just in case my friends managed to vaporize the first. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I don't remember specific birthday parties so well. Somewhere along the way, they stopped happening, probably when dessert-oriented affairs lost their luster -- and I stopped caring about getting older in the first place. Years unfolded like symphonies then, long, meandering and dense, narratives stretching out, passing through movements, moods and phases. Now, they are proggy rock productions, half as long yet still intricate and hefty. Ten birthdays from Sunday, they will be pop songs, economical, straight to the point -- verse, chorus, verse, chorus, bridge, chorus, out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My birthday was a big one, a landmark -- or so I have been told. No one over 35 sympathizes when someone whines about turning 30. \"Big deal\" and \"get over it\" are common responses. At the corner store on Friday, I was buying some beer. \"So, how old are you, bro?\" the cashier suddenly asked -- a now familiar casual alternative to actually requesting identification. I told him I was a few days away from turning 30, and he groaned. \"Bro, 30 blows,\" he sighed, shaking his head, dropping my six-pack into a paper bag. \"My 20s were awesome, and then it went downhill.\" I shrugged. \"I'm don't care,\" I said. \"But, you know -- I'm 32, and you're just 30,\" he added helpfully -- hopefully starting to feel like an idiot. \"It won't be too bad.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The arrival of spring wasn't always about green garlic, favas, fresh peas, asparagus, and the start of the N.B.A. playoffs. Beginning with my 25th -- a silly excuse for a milestone, really -- it revolved around anticipating and dreading my birthday -- so much that I actually tried to keep the date a secret for a while. I have come a long way. Now, I realize though that my problem with birthdays isn't so much an aversion to growing older as the idea of celebrating the passage of time so personally. I don't want my friends to gather and toast me just because I'm a littler older. I don't want to be the center of that kind of attention. Some people organize dinners for themselves, invite everyone they know to bars, and throw house parties. Me, I only want to get away. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This past weekend, instead of donning skins and venturing off into the woods alone to nibble rodents and pick berries, I faced the dawn of my fourth decade with calm and an appropriate aura of maturity. I went to Wine Country with my girlfriend, but we did not go to wineries, take hikes, or shop. Instead, we watched cooking shows and basketball from a bed at a Best Western smelling fairly strongly of cat, sweat and old coffee, napped, and left our dark little room only to eat -- at \u003ca href=\"http://www.adhocrestaurant.com/\">Ad Hoc\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Keller\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a>'s two-and-a-half-year-old restaurant in \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yountville,_California\">Yountville\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Offering a single family-style menu on every night that it is open, Ad Hoc suits a birthday dinner. The four-course menu -- a salad, an entree, a cheese, and a dessert -- is announced via email every morning. Unless you have a dietary aversion to something, you eat what is offered. The relative inflexibility of a meal at Ad Hoc evokes the inevitable march of birthdays. You don't get to choose how fast you get older; you just age. If you make a reservation three months in advance, and you find out veal will be served, and you happen not to like veal, you either stay home or give veal another chance. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Downtown Yountville didn't impress me much. As we rolled through, the buildings seemed silly and new, as if part of a set. Even signs pointing out places of note rubbed me the wrong way. They were narrow wooden rectangles, the names printed or carved on in quirky fonts, reminiscent of signage at campsites and in tourist-heavy Gold Rush towns. As we crossed Washington St., ambling towards the restaurant, a middle-aged man in a two-tone North Face jacket -- literally, a city slicker -- walked past with his party. \"I'm gonna retire here,\" he said emphatically to the woman with an arm tucked under his. I would rather chug acid rain, I thought, as a few ominous drops splashed symbolically from the sky. Yet when we stepped into Ad Hoc, all gripes vanished. Warm, hungry, we sat down at our table, and just as I flung open the brown folder containing the wine list, the opening strains of Michael Jackson's Beethoven-indebted \u003ca href=\"http://www.metacafe.com/watch/sy-13406417/michael_jackson_will_you_be_there_official_music_video/\">\"Will You Be There\"\u003c/a> wafted over from invisible stereo speakers like steam rolling off a roast. Despite its popcorn-spiritual lyrical heft, hearing it at that moment made me feel quite peaceful, comfortable with my impending birthday, and even more overjoyed than usual to be spending it with the person sitting across from me.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The salad and a flute of Cremant du Jura arrived before I could feel too weird about digging a song off the \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Free_Willy\">Free Willy\u003c/a> soundtrack. The salad was the kind of California comfort food Californians should be proud of. Every ingredient was beautiful, presented artfully, and perfectly cooked. The beans were leprechaun-green, simultaneously snappy and slippery. There were sweet pale green apple slices, curling wafers of rose-colored radish, thicker potato coins, soft and creamy, melting flakes of salt, frisee and fried polenta cubes, crusty brown on the outside, still oozing within. It was actually exciting, a humble masterpiece. With lovely, harmonious flavors, the dish celebrated produce but without an dulling, dogmatic degree of simplicity and purity. An herb-crusted lamb sirloin followed, majestic pink hunks over pine nuts, golden raisins, buttered barley, and rainbow chard in a silver serving dish, and, after that, a raw milk \u003ca href=\"http://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/prodinfo.asp?number=VERMAYR\">\"Vermont Ayr,\"\u003c/a> nutty and sour, perfect with roasted almonds, pistachios, and pecans, and drizzles of orange blossom honey. The dinner ended with a light, creamy bread pudding studded with croissant chunks, chocolate chips and bits of medjool date. The evening concluded with an episode of \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnetwork.com/iron-chef-america/index.html\">Iron Chef\u003c/a> back at the hotel. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the morning, we ate a free continental breakfast at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariecallenders.com/\">Marie Callender's\u003c/a> across from the inn. We drove home in a gale of rain, planning to stop at \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleybowl.com/\">Berkeley Bowl\u003c/a> for cheap sushi and groceries before heading into San Francisco.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I thought about Ad Hoc on the way home. In that it was originally conceived as a temporary establishment, the restaurant sort of evokes life itself. Life is, of course, very temporary. It starts, sometimes accidentally, often unsurely, and you don't know when it will end. Hopefully, it keeps going, each birthday ticking off another little notch in time's passing, ending only after you get to do most of the things you want to do. Ad Hoc has kept going, much longer than Keller anticipated it would. It turned out to be fun, a winning concept -- unique, exciting, and relatively affordable -- so it was not swiftly reconfigured as a burger joint or another Keller-ific experiment. It was allowed to simply continue, to breathe and evolve. I feel privileged to do the same. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/12422/ad-hoc-temporary-relief-from-fragapane-phobia","authors":["5060"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_3786","bayareabites_3791","bayareabites_3799","bayareabites_200","bayareabites_3787","bayareabites_3788","bayareabites_3789"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. 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Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. 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