3 Recipes: Roasted Tomatoes, The Perfect Accessory For Summer Dishes
Scape Velocity: Green Garlic Takes Flight
Try A Do-It-Yourself Mother's Day
Preserved Lemons: Older, Wiser And Full Of Flavor
In Praise Of The Humble Lentil
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Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"628\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69020\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted tomatoes. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/08/28/215862597/roasted-tomatoes-the-perfect-accessory-for-summer-dishes\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/28/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#orzo\">Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil\u003c/a>; \u003ca href=\"#pork\">Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#tart\">Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At this time of year, we all love tomatoes. Many of us claim we'll \"take a big juicy tomato and bite into it like it's an apple,\" although you won't often see that happen in actual fact.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet, even people who love a juicy fresh tomato also are likely to enjoy it with all the juice sucked out, as in sun-dried tomatoes and — especially — roasted tomatoes. It's the way the process acts on flavors, caramelizing what's on the outside, concentrating what's on the inside. It's true even for a soulless, pale-pink January tomato. You can count on roasting to isolate and spotlight whatever sugars are to be found in that poor, hardhearted, well-traveled specimen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when you roast an August tomato — the Rita Hayworth of nightshades, seething in aromatic volatile compounds, complex with the sweetness of captured sunlight, intrinsically tart with citric and malic acids — well, then, you have something worth stopping the presses for. Dressed in caramel notes, with a suggestion of salt and a big wink toward vinegar, a roasted tomato's most memorable feature is its long, sensuous, deep and savory finish. It's a tone poem in umami, and by the time you reach the coda it's already instructed your brain to reach for the next.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first glance, when you start comparing people's methods for roasting tomatoes, you'll think the world has gone mad. Some tell you to roast at 450 degrees for 30 minutes. Some tell you to roast at 250 degrees for 3 hours. Others say 350 for 2 hours. \u003cem>What is going on?\u003c/em> The thing is, they all work. All you're doing is taking out the water and browning the outside a little. You can do it fast, in which case it will be sludgy but luscious in the middle, with a slippery, detachable outside. Or you can do it slowly, in which case the texture will be more cohesive, uniformly tacky and chewy. Same great taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How much does it change matters if you use cherry or grape tomatoes instead of full-size ones? The most important factor is how much air circulates around each piece of tomato, so smaller pieces will tend to dry faster. Just be sure to drizzle on some oil, and don't be shy — fat carries flavor, and there's a lot of flavor to carry here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you've got your roasted tomatoes, you can store them in the refrigerator for as long as it takes to use them up, and, trust me, it won't be long. The oil you so considerately drizzled over them when you were about to pop them in the oven will also help to keep them fresh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are as many ways to eat a roasted tomato as there are cooks. You can tuck them into pastas and pasta salads with a drizzle of balsamic. They're sensational with basil, the eternal tomato sidekick. You can use them as a base for gravy whose depth and character will bring tears to your eyes. You can showcase them in a gorgeous tart, layered like russet roof tiles in a golden pastry frame. Or you can toss them with some crisp-crusted potatoes with maybe some flecks of olive, and spend a happy half-hour alternating tomato-potato bites in a partial swoon, unable to decide which you love more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a happy problem to have, and a specifically \u003cem>summer\u003c/em> sort of happy problem, like whether to wear your strappy sandals or your cork wedges, or whether you should go for a swim or nap in the hammock. Enjoy it while you can — because while the roasted tomatoes of August may indeed be unforgettable, you certainly don't want to wait until they're nothing more than a memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"orzo\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I think this very simple but satisfying salad looks loveliest if you have a mix of colors — maybe some orange sun gold cherry tomatoes mixed in with the red.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69018\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-orzo.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-orzo.jpg\" alt=\"Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69018\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pints cherry or grape tomatoes, or a mix\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Olive oil for tossing the tomatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound orzo\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup pine nuts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large bunch basil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Red wine vinegar and fresh pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 250 degrees (or 200 with convection).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Halve the tomatoes lengthwise and toss with plenty of oil until they glisten. Arrange them cut side up on a foil-lined baking sheet with plenty of space in between and sprinkle with just a bit of salt. Roast for 1 hour and 15-30 minutes, checking every half-hour on their progress. If they start to turn a deep brown on their undersides, pull them right away — they're about to burn. You want them tacky and slightly shriveled but not completely dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the tomatoes are roasting, boil a pot of water. Cook the orzo according to the package directions, drain and toss with oil to prevent clumping. As it cools, toast the pine nuts over low heat in a small, dry skillet until they're evenly bronzed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Toss the tomatoes, orzo and pine nuts together with a splash of red wine vinegar. Shred the basil by hand and toss at the very last minute, as both the vinegar and the heat are liable to make it discolor. Serve at room temperature. It's also good picnic food, tossed with a little more olive oil and served cold.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"pork\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is high-heat roasting, enough to concentrate the tomato flavor, but not enough to dry out the pulp, so don't be surprised if the tomatoes remain a bit sludgy. The recipe is adapted from \u003c/em>Sara Foster's Southern Kitchen\u003cem> (Random House, 2011). Foster suggests you serve it with \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/07/31/207060436/buttermilk--makes--everything--taste--a--little--better\" target=\"_blank\">buttermilk biscuits\u003c/a>,\u003cem> which is great if you have the time. But the pork with its swoon-worthy gravy is memorable all by itself.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69016\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes-pork.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes-pork.jpg\" alt=\"Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69016\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 plum tomatoes, cored and halved\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1-pound pork tenderloin or center-cut loin, trimmed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons fresh thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups low-sodium chicken broth\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the tomatoes on a rimmed baking sheet and toss with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and the vinegar. Season with salt and pepper to taste and bake for about 30 minutes, until the skins begin to shrivel and the tomatoes start to caramelize. Remove from the oven and set aside until cool enough to handle. Remove and discard the skins (they will slip right off) and roughly chop the tomatoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the tomatoes are cooking, rinse the pork, pat dry and remove any silver skin. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until sizzling hot. Slice the tenderloin into rounds about 1/4- to 1/2-inch thick and sprinkle with the thyme and salt and pepper to taste, pressing lightly so the seasonings adhere. Dip the rounds in the flour to coat both sides lightly; reserve the remaining flour. Place the pork in the skillet and saute for about 2 minutes per side, until light brown around the edges. Remove the meat from the skillet, place on a plate and cover loosely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the butter to the same skillet and melt until sizzling hot. Add 2 tablespoons of the reserved dredging flour and stir to scrape any brown bits from the bottom of the skillet. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 1 minute, just until the flour cooks slightly and turns light brown. Whisk in the broth and stir until the gravy is slightly thick and smooth. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring frequently, until the gravy comes to a boil and thickens, 3 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and return the tenderloin slices to the skillet with the gravy just to warm through.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"tart\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is one of those tarts that come together in no time if you happen to have the roasted tomatoes and the caramelized onions already made. Otherwise, grab a glass of wine and a friend and prepare to hang out in an increasingly fragrant kitchen for a couple of hours.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69019\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-tart.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-tart.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust. Photo: T. Susan Chang\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69019\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust. Photo: T. Susan Chang\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 to 8 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tart Dough\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup white whole wheat or all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup freshly grated Parmesan\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch kosher salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 stick cold unsalted butter, cut into 6 or 8 large chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup water, in a measuring cup with a couple of ice cubes thrown in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tart Filling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large ripe tomatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Olive oil for coating the onions and the tomatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1-2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large onions, halved and thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kosher salt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 oil-packed anchovy fillets\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup crumbled feta cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 250 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper and lightly oil the paper. Slice the tomatoes 1/3- to 1/2-inch thick and lay them out, well-spaced, on the baking sheet. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar and enough olive oil so that the slices glisten evenly (if your olive oil pools and splotches, just grab a brush and baste the slices with it). Sprinkle with just a pinch of kosher salt. Roast for 1 1/2 hours, flipping the slices halfway through, until tomatoes are collapsed, but firm enough to turn with spatula, and a bit tacky and chewy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the tomatoes are roasting, make the tart dough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the flour, salt and Parmesan briefly to combine. Add the butter chunks and continue pulsing until the mixture is coarsely combined (particles should be a mix of sizes, from sand- to rice- to pea-size). Add a tablespoon or so of water, and pulse a couple of times; repeat. Finally, add just a bit more water and pulse a few times until the dough begins to clump together in little pellets, smaller than a grain of rice. There should be almost no visible flour particles left in the bowl. Pulse two or three more times, so the pellets start to clump, and turn out onto a work surface. Shape gently into a disk about as thick as your thumb. Wrap in plastic and chill in the refrigerator for 20-30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. While the dough's chilling, caramelize the onions. Add the thin slices to a heavy, wide-bottomed pot with a generous pinch of kosher salt and enough oil to coat the onions. Stir them thoroughly to coat and then let them sweat, gently, over low heat, until they soften and their moisture has dampened the pan and then evaporated, about 20 minutes; stir as often as you have to so that they don't color at this point. If the pan is dry, add a half-cup of water and continue to cook for another 20 minutes or so until the pan is dry again. Add a tiny bit more oil — enough to help the onions glide over the bottom of the pan. They will color quickly at this point, so stir continuously until they are an even caramel color throughout. Add the anchovies, breaking them up with a fork and working them into the onions. Remove from heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While you're minding the onions, you'll have enough time to blind-bake the tart dough. Remove the tart dough from the refrigerator and press it into a 1/3-inch-thick round with a rolling pin, using a little flour to keep the dough from sticking to the counter if necessary. Then roll it out into a 1/8- to 1/4-inch round.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the dough in a fluted 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Fit snugly in the pan and roll a rolling pin over the top of the pan to cut off any overhang. Refrigerate for 10 minutes more. Place the tart pan on a baking sheet, set a sheet of parchment paper against the surface of the dough and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake for 10 minutes, until just pale gold. Prick the dough with a fork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lower the oven temperature to 300 degrees. Spread the caramelized onions on the base. Crumble the feta cheese onto the onions. Layer on the roasted tomatoes in overlapping circles. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the tomatoes are vibrant and slightly more shrunken and the feta has melted a bit. Unmold gingerly and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About the Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nT. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe,\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR.org\u003c/a> and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a> and has just released the \u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/cookshelf-cookbook-rating/id638554845?mt=8\">CookShelf cookbook-rating app\u003c/a>, which is available on iPhone, iPad and Android devices. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Dressed in caramel notes, with a suggestion of salt and a big wink toward vinegar, a roasted tomato's most memorable feature is its long, sensuous, deep and savory finish.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1561418249,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":72,"wordCount":2316},"headData":{"title":"3 Recipes: Roasted Tomatoes, The Perfect Accessory For Summer Dishes | KQED","description":"Dressed in caramel notes, with a suggestion of salt and a big wink toward vinegar, a roasted tomato's most memorable feature is its long, sensuous, deep and savory finish.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"3 Recipes: Roasted Tomatoes, The Perfect Accessory For Summer Dishes","datePublished":"2013-08-28T18:30:31.000Z","dateModified":"2019-06-24T23:17:29.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"69010 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=69010","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/08/28/roasted-tomatoes-recipes-the-perfect-accessory-for-summer-dishes/","disqusTitle":"3 Recipes: Roasted Tomatoes, The Perfect Accessory For Summer Dishes","nprByline":"T. Susan Chang","nprStoryId":"215862597","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=215862597&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/2013/08/28/215862597/roasted-tomatoes-the-perfect-accessory-for-summer-dishes?ft=3&f=215862597","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 28 Aug 2013 03:31:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 28 Aug 2013 00:04:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 28 Aug 2013 03:31:18 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/69010/roasted-tomatoes-recipes-the-perfect-accessory-for-summer-dishes","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69020\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted tomatoes. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"628\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69020\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted tomatoes. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/08/28/215862597/roasted-tomatoes-the-perfect-accessory-for-summer-dishes\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (8/28/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#orzo\">Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil\u003c/a>; \u003ca href=\"#pork\">Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#tart\">Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At this time of year, we all love tomatoes. Many of us claim we'll \"take a big juicy tomato and bite into it like it's an apple,\" although you won't often see that happen in actual fact.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet, even people who love a juicy fresh tomato also are likely to enjoy it with all the juice sucked out, as in sun-dried tomatoes and — especially — roasted tomatoes. It's the way the process acts on flavors, caramelizing what's on the outside, concentrating what's on the inside. It's true even for a soulless, pale-pink January tomato. You can count on roasting to isolate and spotlight whatever sugars are to be found in that poor, hardhearted, well-traveled specimen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when you roast an August tomato — the Rita Hayworth of nightshades, seething in aromatic volatile compounds, complex with the sweetness of captured sunlight, intrinsically tart with citric and malic acids — well, then, you have something worth stopping the presses for. Dressed in caramel notes, with a suggestion of salt and a big wink toward vinegar, a roasted tomato's most memorable feature is its long, sensuous, deep and savory finish. It's a tone poem in umami, and by the time you reach the coda it's already instructed your brain to reach for the next.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At first glance, when you start comparing people's methods for roasting tomatoes, you'll think the world has gone mad. Some tell you to roast at 450 degrees for 30 minutes. Some tell you to roast at 250 degrees for 3 hours. Others say 350 for 2 hours. \u003cem>What is going on?\u003c/em> The thing is, they all work. All you're doing is taking out the water and browning the outside a little. You can do it fast, in which case it will be sludgy but luscious in the middle, with a slippery, detachable outside. Or you can do it slowly, in which case the texture will be more cohesive, uniformly tacky and chewy. Same great taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>How much does it change matters if you use cherry or grape tomatoes instead of full-size ones? The most important factor is how much air circulates around each piece of tomato, so smaller pieces will tend to dry faster. Just be sure to drizzle on some oil, and don't be shy — fat carries flavor, and there's a lot of flavor to carry here.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you've got your roasted tomatoes, you can store them in the refrigerator for as long as it takes to use them up, and, trust me, it won't be long. The oil you so considerately drizzled over them when you were about to pop them in the oven will also help to keep them fresh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are as many ways to eat a roasted tomato as there are cooks. You can tuck them into pastas and pasta salads with a drizzle of balsamic. They're sensational with basil, the eternal tomato sidekick. You can use them as a base for gravy whose depth and character will bring tears to your eyes. You can showcase them in a gorgeous tart, layered like russet roof tiles in a golden pastry frame. Or you can toss them with some crisp-crusted potatoes with maybe some flecks of olive, and spend a happy half-hour alternating tomato-potato bites in a partial swoon, unable to decide which you love more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a happy problem to have, and a specifically \u003cem>summer\u003c/em> sort of happy problem, like whether to wear your strappy sandals or your cork wedges, or whether you should go for a swim or nap in the hammock. Enjoy it while you can — because while the roasted tomatoes of August may indeed be unforgettable, you certainly don't want to wait until they're nothing more than a memory.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"orzo\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I think this very simple but satisfying salad looks loveliest if you have a mix of colors — maybe some orange sun gold cherry tomatoes mixed in with the red.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69018\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-orzo.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-orzo.jpg\" alt=\"Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69018\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Orzo Salad With Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts And Basil. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pints cherry or grape tomatoes, or a mix\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Olive oil for tossing the tomatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound orzo\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup pine nuts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large bunch basil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Red wine vinegar and fresh pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 250 degrees (or 200 with convection).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Halve the tomatoes lengthwise and toss with plenty of oil until they glisten. Arrange them cut side up on a foil-lined baking sheet with plenty of space in between and sprinkle with just a bit of salt. Roast for 1 hour and 15-30 minutes, checking every half-hour on their progress. If they start to turn a deep brown on their undersides, pull them right away — they're about to burn. You want them tacky and slightly shriveled but not completely dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the tomatoes are roasting, boil a pot of water. Cook the orzo according to the package directions, drain and toss with oil to prevent clumping. As it cools, toast the pine nuts over low heat in a small, dry skillet until they're evenly bronzed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Toss the tomatoes, orzo and pine nuts together with a splash of red wine vinegar. Shred the basil by hand and toss at the very last minute, as both the vinegar and the heat are liable to make it discolor. Serve at room temperature. It's also good picnic food, tossed with a little more olive oil and served cold.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"pork\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is high-heat roasting, enough to concentrate the tomato flavor, but not enough to dry out the pulp, so don't be surprised if the tomatoes remain a bit sludgy. The recipe is adapted from \u003c/em>Sara Foster's Southern Kitchen\u003cem> (Random House, 2011). Foster suggests you serve it with \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/07/31/207060436/buttermilk--makes--everything--taste--a--little--better\" target=\"_blank\">buttermilk biscuits\u003c/a>,\u003cem> which is great if you have the time. But the pork with its swoon-worthy gravy is memorable all by itself.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69016\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes-pork.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomatoes-pork.jpg\" alt=\"Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69016\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pork Tenderloin With Roasted Tomato-Thyme Gravy. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 plum tomatoes, cored and halved\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1-pound pork tenderloin or center-cut loin, trimmed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons fresh thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups low-sodium chicken broth\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the tomatoes on a rimmed baking sheet and toss with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and the vinegar. Season with salt and pepper to taste and bake for about 30 minutes, until the skins begin to shrivel and the tomatoes start to caramelize. Remove from the oven and set aside until cool enough to handle. Remove and discard the skins (they will slip right off) and roughly chop the tomatoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the tomatoes are cooking, rinse the pork, pat dry and remove any silver skin. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until sizzling hot. Slice the tenderloin into rounds about 1/4- to 1/2-inch thick and sprinkle with the thyme and salt and pepper to taste, pressing lightly so the seasonings adhere. Dip the rounds in the flour to coat both sides lightly; reserve the remaining flour. Place the pork in the skillet and saute for about 2 minutes per side, until light brown around the edges. Remove the meat from the skillet, place on a plate and cover loosely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the butter to the same skillet and melt until sizzling hot. Add 2 tablespoons of the reserved dredging flour and stir to scrape any brown bits from the bottom of the skillet. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 1 minute, just until the flour cooks slightly and turns light brown. Whisk in the broth and stir until the gravy is slightly thick and smooth. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring frequently, until the gravy comes to a boil and thickens, 3 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and return the tenderloin slices to the skillet with the gravy just to warm through.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"tart\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is one of those tarts that come together in no time if you happen to have the roasted tomatoes and the caramelized onions already made. Otherwise, grab a glass of wine and a friend and prepare to hang out in an increasingly fragrant kitchen for a couple of hours.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_69019\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-tart.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/08/roast-tomato-tart.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust. Photo: T. Susan Chang\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-69019\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted Tomato Tart With Caramelized Onions And Parmesan Crust. Photo: T. Susan Chang\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 to 8 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tart Dough\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup white whole wheat or all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup freshly grated Parmesan\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch kosher salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 stick cold unsalted butter, cut into 6 or 8 large chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup water, in a measuring cup with a couple of ice cubes thrown in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tart Filling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large ripe tomatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Olive oil for coating the onions and the tomatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1-2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large onions, halved and thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kosher salt to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 oil-packed anchovy fillets\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup crumbled feta cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 250 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper and lightly oil the paper. Slice the tomatoes 1/3- to 1/2-inch thick and lay them out, well-spaced, on the baking sheet. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar and enough olive oil so that the slices glisten evenly (if your olive oil pools and splotches, just grab a brush and baste the slices with it). Sprinkle with just a pinch of kosher salt. Roast for 1 1/2 hours, flipping the slices halfway through, until tomatoes are collapsed, but firm enough to turn with spatula, and a bit tacky and chewy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the tomatoes are roasting, make the tart dough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the flour, salt and Parmesan briefly to combine. Add the butter chunks and continue pulsing until the mixture is coarsely combined (particles should be a mix of sizes, from sand- to rice- to pea-size). Add a tablespoon or so of water, and pulse a couple of times; repeat. Finally, add just a bit more water and pulse a few times until the dough begins to clump together in little pellets, smaller than a grain of rice. There should be almost no visible flour particles left in the bowl. Pulse two or three more times, so the pellets start to clump, and turn out onto a work surface. Shape gently into a disk about as thick as your thumb. Wrap in plastic and chill in the refrigerator for 20-30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. While the dough's chilling, caramelize the onions. Add the thin slices to a heavy, wide-bottomed pot with a generous pinch of kosher salt and enough oil to coat the onions. Stir them thoroughly to coat and then let them sweat, gently, over low heat, until they soften and their moisture has dampened the pan and then evaporated, about 20 minutes; stir as often as you have to so that they don't color at this point. If the pan is dry, add a half-cup of water and continue to cook for another 20 minutes or so until the pan is dry again. Add a tiny bit more oil — enough to help the onions glide over the bottom of the pan. They will color quickly at this point, so stir continuously until they are an even caramel color throughout. Add the anchovies, breaking them up with a fork and working them into the onions. Remove from heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While you're minding the onions, you'll have enough time to blind-bake the tart dough. Remove the tart dough from the refrigerator and press it into a 1/3-inch-thick round with a rolling pin, using a little flour to keep the dough from sticking to the counter if necessary. Then roll it out into a 1/8- to 1/4-inch round.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the dough in a fluted 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Fit snugly in the pan and roll a rolling pin over the top of the pan to cut off any overhang. Refrigerate for 10 minutes more. Place the tart pan on a baking sheet, set a sheet of parchment paper against the surface of the dough and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake for 10 minutes, until just pale gold. Prick the dough with a fork.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lower the oven temperature to 300 degrees. Spread the caramelized onions on the base. Crumble the feta cheese onto the onions. Layer on the roasted tomatoes in overlapping circles. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the tomatoes are vibrant and slightly more shrunken and the feta has melted a bit. Unmold gingerly and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About the Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nT. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe,\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR.org\u003c/a> and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a> and has just released the \u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/cookshelf-cookbook-rating/id638554845?mt=8\">CookShelf cookbook-rating app\u003c/a>, which is available on iPhone, iPad and Android devices. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/69010/roasted-tomatoes-recipes-the-perfect-accessory-for-summer-dishes","authors":["byline_bayareabites_69010"],"categories":["bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_11086","bayareabites_2769","bayareabites_3682","bayareabites_11121","bayareabites_453"],"featImg":"bayareabites_69017","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_65763":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_65763","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"65763","score":null,"sort":[1374102633000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"scape-velocity-green-garlic-takes-flight-2","title":"Scape Velocity: Green Garlic Takes Flight","publishDate":1374102633,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65785\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/scapes-0.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/scapes-0.jpg\" alt=\"Garlic Scapes. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65785\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Garlic Scapes. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/07/10/200147649/scape-velocity-green-garlic-takes-flight#pork\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (7/10/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for: \u003ca href=\"#pork\">Pork And Garlic Scape Stir-Fry\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#asparagus\">Sesame Ginger Scapes And Asparagus\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#pesto\">Scape Pesto (Or \"Don't Have To\" Pesto)\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you've never grown garlic, here's how you do it: On a bright cool fall afternoon, before the ground has frozen, you pry an ordinary, unpeeled clove of garlic off the bulb. You plant it in the ground, about 4 inches down and pointy side up. Maybe you cover the soil with some straw to protect it from extremes of heat, cold and drought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then comes the easy part — you forget about it. Thanksgiving comes, and a procession of seasonal holidays in which a lot of garlic is eaten, but none is given much thought. Thus ignored, the buried clove sleeps on while you sample chocolates in February and when the maple runs in March. And then, one day while venturing out into the winter-battered garden, still frost-edged and filled with flattened weeds, you see it — a small firm shoot poking up out of the ground like a miniature dorsal fin, glowing a brilliant emerald in an otherwise plantless wasteland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The shoot grows slowly, then faster as the mercury rises. The rains of April multiply its leaves, while below the unseen clove fattens and divides. The rains also bring weeds, and for the first time since planting you actually have to take a few minutes to care for your garlic by keeping it free of new grass and lambs-quarters. Otherwise it pretty much takes care of itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By late spring the plant is a foot and a half high, with a half-dozen leaves (one for every layer of skin that covers the bulb). And then — just when you're hunting for the first ripe strawberries — something odd happens. The garlic sends up a central stalk, chartreuse and pointy at the end, and it starts growing \u003cem>fast\u003c/em>. It's called a scape. The scape shoots up and then goes serpentine — it begins to curl, forming one loop or maybe even two. There's a bump toward the end of the scape, and if you leave it alone it will develop into a \"bulbil\" (which is not a hobbit, but a miniature garlic you could plant if you wanted).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't let things get that far; instead, snap off the scape when it's done curlicuing. It's the gardener's dividend, and it is a rich one. The taste of that green garlic is haunting — biting, fresh, vegetal and verdant. It is to mature garlic what a string quartet is to an orchestra; what a sonnet is to a novel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The scape's texture is a little like asparagus, and you can use it in the kind of stir-fry you normally start with crushed or pressed or minced or sliced garlic cloves. As far as I'm concerned, garlic scapes qualify as a vegetable, and you need to add little more than a handful of protein to make a fragrant and memorable one-pot meal. Some people like to pickle them and some like to puree them into soup. I like to throw them in my morning fried rice (always a random, opportunistic mixture of the leftover and the in-season).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But by far the easiest and most popular way to use garlic scapes is to turn them into scape pesto. I think of it as \"don't have to\" pesto. I \u003cem>don't have to \u003c/em>use garlic, because the scapes \u003cem>are\u003c/em> garlic. I could use basil, but I \u003cem>don't have to\u003c/em>. I could hunt down pine nuts instead of whatever's around, and I could toast them, but I \u003cem>don't have to\u003c/em>. I could use both Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano-Reggiano, but I \u003cem>don't have to\u003c/em>. And I not only \u003cem>don't have to \u003c/em>use a mortar and pestle, I \u003cem>can't.\u003c/em> So the scapes and the oil and whatever nuts or cheese all get thrown in the food processor, willy-nilly. Although the lack of care I've just described is probably criminal, it still tastes great every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For just these couple of weeks, the scapes yield bonus after bonus. And then, suddenly, that's it. The de-scaped garlic plant continues to grow and the bulb continues to ripen, until one day in July when you notice that two of its six or seven leaves have yellowed and withered. On a sunny, breezy afternoon — the kind that kites are made for — you uproot the fat bulbs, knock the dirt off of them and hang them somewhere cool and dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The very fattest you save for seed, for garlic grows better from year to year as it gets used to the conditions of your garden. While the kids sleep off their Halloween binge, you drop them in the ground, to be forgotten again. Until next spring — when that first bright emerald sighting once more jogs your memory, sending up a beacon of hope and dreams of scapes to come.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"pork\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Pork And Garlic Scape Stir-Fry\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe is very loosely adapted from Fuchsia Dunlop's \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/176069849/every-grain-of-rice-simple-chinese-home-cooking\" target=\"_blank\">Every Grain of Rice\u003c/a>\u003cem> (Norton, 2013), a terrific collection of Chinese weekday stir-fry essentials, in case you're looking for one. I've reduced the amount of oil. You only need a little bit to start things off, since pork belly will oil itself nicely as soon as it heats up. You can find the chili bean paste and fermented black beans at Chinese groceries, or Asian grocery stories with a good selection of jarred Chinese condiments. You could stir-fry the whole thing at once rather than in two batches, but the textures and colors won't be as vivid.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65780\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/scapepork-lg.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/scapepork-lg.jpg\" alt=\"Pork And Garlic Scape Stir-Fry. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"840\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65780\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pork And Garlic Scape Stir-Fry. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings, with rice\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound pork belly, skin removed (you can ask your butcher to do this if you don't want to do it yourself)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 dozen garlic scapes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons oil or lard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons Sichuan chili bean paste (also called broad bean paste with chili or \u003cem>tou ban jiang\u003c/em>)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons fermented black beans, rinsed and drained\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut the pork into slices about 1/8- to 1/4-inch thick, each with a good mixture of fat and lean. If you need to firm up the pork for slicing, just stick it in the freezer for 10 minutes. Cut the garlic stems into 1 3/4-inch sections, discarding any fibrous parts at their bases.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat a wok over a high flame. When hot, add 1 teaspoon of the oil. Add half the pork, reduce the heat to medium and stir-fry until the slices are just curved and tinged with gold and the oil is clear, adding a pinch of salt about halfway through the cooking time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Use a wok scoop or slotted spoon to move the pork to one side of the wok. Add half the chili bean paste and half the black beans to the oil that pools in the space you have created. Stir-fry them briefly until the oil is red and fragrant. Then mix everything together, add 1/2 the sugar and then half the garlic scapes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Increase the heat to high and stir-fry until the garlic scapes are cooked (they will appear slightly blistered and a brilliant dark green, and when you taste one, the pungency will have mellowed to a sweet garlickiness). Transfer to a serving bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Repeat with the remaining half of the ingredients and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"asparagus\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Sesame Ginger Scapes And Asparagus\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>If you can only get medium or thick asparagus, never fear. The asparagus from my garden comes in all different sizes at the same time, so I split the thicker stalks lengthwise down the middle (in half if you've got medium asparagus, in quarters if it's superthick) and proceed as directed. For this recipe, I prefer tamari to soy — it's a little less salty and drying — but I've used soy in a pinch.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65784\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/scapesasparagus.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/scapesasparagus.jpg\" alt=\"Sesame Ginger Scapes And Asparagus. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65784\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sesame Ginger Scapes And Asparagus. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings as a side dish\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 dozen garlic scapes chopped into 2-inch lengths\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 small bunch of pencil-thin asparagus, chopped into 2-inch lengths\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1-inch knob of ginger, peeled and grated to yield about 1 teaspoon grated ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon tamari sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons mirin\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon toasted sesame oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 1 tablespoon white sesame seeds, to garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat a wok or large, heavy cast-iron skillet over a high flame until it's quite hot (a wisp of smoke may rise from the hot pan). Add the oil, followed immediately by the chopped scapes. Stir-fry for 2-3 minutes, until the scapes are aromatic and dark green, but not yet blistered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the asparagus pieces and grated ginger together and continue stir-frying for a minute or two, until the asparagus has just softened and the ginger has released its fragrance. Don't overdo it — you'll have a chance to cook it further at the end if it's not quite done.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Push the greens to the side of the pan and add the mirin and tamari together. Reduce just a little, until the liquid bubbles and becomes a bit syrupy. Toss with the greens and shut off the heat. Add the sesame oil and toss a final time before garnishing with the sesame seeds and serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"pesto\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Scape Pesto (Or 'Don't Have To' Pesto)\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>A food processor is better than a blender for scape pesto, because you need the wider surface area to chop up the scapes. Warning: This is a pungent, supergarlicky pesto because the scapes are raw — I like it that way, but then again I'm not going on a first date tonight. If you'd like a mellower, tamer pesto, try blanching the scapes for 1 minute in boiling water before adding them to the food processor.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65779\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/scape-pesto.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/scape-pesto.jpg\" alt=\"Scape Pesto. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65779\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Scape Pesto. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings, enough to serve with 1 pound dry pasta\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 dozen garlic scapes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kosher salt, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup toasted pine nuts or other nuts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Handful of basil (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2-3/4 cup olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup grated Parmigiano, Pecorino Romano or a combination\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chop the scapes very roughly, into about 4-inch lengths. Pulse the chopped scapes in a food processor, scraping down the sides a couple of times, until they've broken down into pungent, juicy bits, kind of like an eye-watering risotto. Salt to taste. Add the pine nuts and basil, if using, and pulse a few more times until distributed and flecked throughout.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now run the processor continuously as you drizzle in the olive oil from above through the feeder tube. Stop once or twice to scrape down the sides. Stop when you achieve your preferred consistency — I like a rustic, rough scape pesto, but you can process it right down to a smooth puree if you don't mind adding quite a bit more oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, add in the cheese and pulse just to combine. If you're not using the pesto right away, scrape it into a bowl and cover with plastic wrap, laying the wrap right against the surface to prevent discoloration. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n T. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe,\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR.org\u003c/a> and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a> and has just released the \u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/cookshelf-cookbook-rating/id638554845?mt=8\">CookShelf cookbook-rating app\u003c/a>, which is available on iPhone, iPad and Android devices. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Scapes are the gardener's dividend. The taste of that green garlic is haunting — biting, fresh, vegetal and verdant. It is to mature garlic what a string quartet is to an orchestra; what a sonnet is to a novel.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1374102633,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":53,"wordCount":2008},"headData":{"title":"Scape Velocity: Green Garlic Takes Flight | KQED","description":"Scapes are the gardener's dividend. The taste of that green garlic is haunting — biting, fresh, vegetal and verdant. It is to mature garlic what a string quartet is to an orchestra; what a sonnet is to a novel.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Scape Velocity: Green Garlic Takes Flight","datePublished":"2013-07-17T23:10:33.000Z","dateModified":"2013-07-17T23:10:33.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"65763 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=65763","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/07/17/scape-velocity-green-garlic-takes-flight-2/","disqusTitle":"Scape Velocity: Green Garlic Takes Flight","nprByline":"T. Susan Chang","nprStoryId":"200147649","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=200147649&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/2013/07/10/200147649/scape-velocity-green-garlic-takes-flight?ft=3&f=200147649","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 10 Jul 2013 00:03:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 10 Jul 2013 00:03:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 09 Jul 2013 16:07:54 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/65763/scape-velocity-green-garlic-takes-flight-2","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65785\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/scapes-0.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/scapes-0.jpg\" alt=\"Garlic Scapes. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65785\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Garlic Scapes. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/07/10/200147649/scape-velocity-green-garlic-takes-flight#pork\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (7/10/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for: \u003ca href=\"#pork\">Pork And Garlic Scape Stir-Fry\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#asparagus\">Sesame Ginger Scapes And Asparagus\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#pesto\">Scape Pesto (Or \"Don't Have To\" Pesto)\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you've never grown garlic, here's how you do it: On a bright cool fall afternoon, before the ground has frozen, you pry an ordinary, unpeeled clove of garlic off the bulb. You plant it in the ground, about 4 inches down and pointy side up. Maybe you cover the soil with some straw to protect it from extremes of heat, cold and drought.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then comes the easy part — you forget about it. Thanksgiving comes, and a procession of seasonal holidays in which a lot of garlic is eaten, but none is given much thought. Thus ignored, the buried clove sleeps on while you sample chocolates in February and when the maple runs in March. And then, one day while venturing out into the winter-battered garden, still frost-edged and filled with flattened weeds, you see it — a small firm shoot poking up out of the ground like a miniature dorsal fin, glowing a brilliant emerald in an otherwise plantless wasteland.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The shoot grows slowly, then faster as the mercury rises. The rains of April multiply its leaves, while below the unseen clove fattens and divides. The rains also bring weeds, and for the first time since planting you actually have to take a few minutes to care for your garlic by keeping it free of new grass and lambs-quarters. Otherwise it pretty much takes care of itself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By late spring the plant is a foot and a half high, with a half-dozen leaves (one for every layer of skin that covers the bulb). And then — just when you're hunting for the first ripe strawberries — something odd happens. The garlic sends up a central stalk, chartreuse and pointy at the end, and it starts growing \u003cem>fast\u003c/em>. It's called a scape. The scape shoots up and then goes serpentine — it begins to curl, forming one loop or maybe even two. There's a bump toward the end of the scape, and if you leave it alone it will develop into a \"bulbil\" (which is not a hobbit, but a miniature garlic you could plant if you wanted).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't let things get that far; instead, snap off the scape when it's done curlicuing. It's the gardener's dividend, and it is a rich one. The taste of that green garlic is haunting — biting, fresh, vegetal and verdant. It is to mature garlic what a string quartet is to an orchestra; what a sonnet is to a novel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The scape's texture is a little like asparagus, and you can use it in the kind of stir-fry you normally start with crushed or pressed or minced or sliced garlic cloves. As far as I'm concerned, garlic scapes qualify as a vegetable, and you need to add little more than a handful of protein to make a fragrant and memorable one-pot meal. Some people like to pickle them and some like to puree them into soup. I like to throw them in my morning fried rice (always a random, opportunistic mixture of the leftover and the in-season).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But by far the easiest and most popular way to use garlic scapes is to turn them into scape pesto. I think of it as \"don't have to\" pesto. I \u003cem>don't have to \u003c/em>use garlic, because the scapes \u003cem>are\u003c/em> garlic. I could use basil, but I \u003cem>don't have to\u003c/em>. I could hunt down pine nuts instead of whatever's around, and I could toast them, but I \u003cem>don't have to\u003c/em>. I could use both Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano-Reggiano, but I \u003cem>don't have to\u003c/em>. And I not only \u003cem>don't have to \u003c/em>use a mortar and pestle, I \u003cem>can't.\u003c/em> So the scapes and the oil and whatever nuts or cheese all get thrown in the food processor, willy-nilly. Although the lack of care I've just described is probably criminal, it still tastes great every time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For just these couple of weeks, the scapes yield bonus after bonus. And then, suddenly, that's it. The de-scaped garlic plant continues to grow and the bulb continues to ripen, until one day in July when you notice that two of its six or seven leaves have yellowed and withered. On a sunny, breezy afternoon — the kind that kites are made for — you uproot the fat bulbs, knock the dirt off of them and hang them somewhere cool and dry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The very fattest you save for seed, for garlic grows better from year to year as it gets used to the conditions of your garden. While the kids sleep off their Halloween binge, you drop them in the ground, to be forgotten again. Until next spring — when that first bright emerald sighting once more jogs your memory, sending up a beacon of hope and dreams of scapes to come.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"pork\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Pork And Garlic Scape Stir-Fry\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe is very loosely adapted from Fuchsia Dunlop's \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/176069849/every-grain-of-rice-simple-chinese-home-cooking\" target=\"_blank\">Every Grain of Rice\u003c/a>\u003cem> (Norton, 2013), a terrific collection of Chinese weekday stir-fry essentials, in case you're looking for one. I've reduced the amount of oil. You only need a little bit to start things off, since pork belly will oil itself nicely as soon as it heats up. You can find the chili bean paste and fermented black beans at Chinese groceries, or Asian grocery stories with a good selection of jarred Chinese condiments. You could stir-fry the whole thing at once rather than in two batches, but the textures and colors won't be as vivid.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65780\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/scapepork-lg.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/scapepork-lg.jpg\" alt=\"Pork And Garlic Scape Stir-Fry. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"840\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65780\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pork And Garlic Scape Stir-Fry. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings, with rice\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound pork belly, skin removed (you can ask your butcher to do this if you don't want to do it yourself)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 dozen garlic scapes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons oil or lard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons Sichuan chili bean paste (also called broad bean paste with chili or \u003cem>tou ban jiang\u003c/em>)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons fermented black beans, rinsed and drained\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut the pork into slices about 1/8- to 1/4-inch thick, each with a good mixture of fat and lean. If you need to firm up the pork for slicing, just stick it in the freezer for 10 minutes. Cut the garlic stems into 1 3/4-inch sections, discarding any fibrous parts at their bases.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat a wok over a high flame. When hot, add 1 teaspoon of the oil. Add half the pork, reduce the heat to medium and stir-fry until the slices are just curved and tinged with gold and the oil is clear, adding a pinch of salt about halfway through the cooking time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Use a wok scoop or slotted spoon to move the pork to one side of the wok. Add half the chili bean paste and half the black beans to the oil that pools in the space you have created. Stir-fry them briefly until the oil is red and fragrant. Then mix everything together, add 1/2 the sugar and then half the garlic scapes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Increase the heat to high and stir-fry until the garlic scapes are cooked (they will appear slightly blistered and a brilliant dark green, and when you taste one, the pungency will have mellowed to a sweet garlickiness). Transfer to a serving bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Repeat with the remaining half of the ingredients and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"asparagus\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Sesame Ginger Scapes And Asparagus\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>If you can only get medium or thick asparagus, never fear. The asparagus from my garden comes in all different sizes at the same time, so I split the thicker stalks lengthwise down the middle (in half if you've got medium asparagus, in quarters if it's superthick) and proceed as directed. For this recipe, I prefer tamari to soy — it's a little less salty and drying — but I've used soy in a pinch.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65784\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/scapesasparagus.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/scapesasparagus.jpg\" alt=\"Sesame Ginger Scapes And Asparagus. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65784\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sesame Ginger Scapes And Asparagus. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings as a side dish\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 dozen garlic scapes chopped into 2-inch lengths\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 small bunch of pencil-thin asparagus, chopped into 2-inch lengths\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1-inch knob of ginger, peeled and grated to yield about 1 teaspoon grated ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon tamari sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons mirin\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon toasted sesame oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 1 tablespoon white sesame seeds, to garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat a wok or large, heavy cast-iron skillet over a high flame until it's quite hot (a wisp of smoke may rise from the hot pan). Add the oil, followed immediately by the chopped scapes. Stir-fry for 2-3 minutes, until the scapes are aromatic and dark green, but not yet blistered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the asparagus pieces and grated ginger together and continue stir-frying for a minute or two, until the asparagus has just softened and the ginger has released its fragrance. Don't overdo it — you'll have a chance to cook it further at the end if it's not quite done.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Push the greens to the side of the pan and add the mirin and tamari together. Reduce just a little, until the liquid bubbles and becomes a bit syrupy. Toss with the greens and shut off the heat. Add the sesame oil and toss a final time before garnishing with the sesame seeds and serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"pesto\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Scape Pesto (Or 'Don't Have To' Pesto)\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>A food processor is better than a blender for scape pesto, because you need the wider surface area to chop up the scapes. Warning: This is a pungent, supergarlicky pesto because the scapes are raw — I like it that way, but then again I'm not going on a first date tonight. If you'd like a mellower, tamer pesto, try blanching the scapes for 1 minute in boiling water before adding them to the food processor.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_65779\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/scape-pesto.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/07/scape-pesto.jpg\" alt=\"Scape Pesto. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-65779\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Scape Pesto. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings, enough to serve with 1 pound dry pasta\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 dozen garlic scapes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kosher salt, to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup toasted pine nuts or other nuts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Handful of basil (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2-3/4 cup olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup grated Parmigiano, Pecorino Romano or a combination\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chop the scapes very roughly, into about 4-inch lengths. Pulse the chopped scapes in a food processor, scraping down the sides a couple of times, until they've broken down into pungent, juicy bits, kind of like an eye-watering risotto. Salt to taste. Add the pine nuts and basil, if using, and pulse a few more times until distributed and flecked throughout.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now run the processor continuously as you drizzle in the olive oil from above through the feeder tube. Stop once or twice to scrape down the sides. Stop when you achieve your preferred consistency — I like a rustic, rough scape pesto, but you can process it right down to a smooth puree if you don't mind adding quite a bit more oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, add in the cheese and pulse just to combine. If you're not using the pesto right away, scrape it into a bowl and cover with plastic wrap, laying the wrap right against the surface to prevent discoloration. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n T. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe,\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR.org\u003c/a> and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a> and has just released the \u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/cookshelf-cookbook-rating/id638554845?mt=8\">CookShelf cookbook-rating app\u003c/a>, which is available on iPhone, iPad and Android devices. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/65763/scape-velocity-green-garlic-takes-flight-2","authors":["byline_bayareabites_65763"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_2554","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_743","bayareabites_11086","bayareabites_8987","bayareabites_12052","bayareabites_11121"],"featImg":"bayareabites_65783","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_61601":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_61601","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"61601","score":null,"sort":[1368148071000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"try-a-do-it-yourself-mothers-day","title":"Try A Do-It-Yourself Mother's Day","publishDate":1368148071,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61637\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/mompopcorn.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/mompopcorn-1024x681.jpg\" alt=\"Mom's Posh Porcini Popcorn stashed behind the cookbooks. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"681\" class=\"size-large wp-image-61637\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mom's Posh Porcini Popcorn stashed behind the cookbooks. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/05/07/181984272/try-a-do-it-yourself-mothers-day\">Kitchen Window\u003c/a>, NPR Food\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#pecans\">Slow-Roasted Butter Pecans\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#candy\">Matzo Candy With Caramel, Chocolate And Halvah\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#fool\">Rhubarb-Ginger Fool\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#popcorn\">Posh Porcini Popcorn\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#sandwich\">Curried Egg Salad Sandwich\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mother didn't plant a great many spring bulbs. But over by the pachysandra patch, there was a single lovely pink tulip, and I kept my eye on it for two weeks before Mother's Day. When that Sunday morning arrived, I rushed out, snipped it and ran inside to where she lay sleeping to present it to her. \"Did you pick that outside?\" she inquired, her expression shifting from sleepy surprise to something more complicated. I nodded proudly. \"Oh ... thank you, sweetie.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, some 40 years later, I can read that image of my mother's face like a book — chagrin for the flower-picking (she would rather have enjoyed it in the spot where she'd planted it), affection for her impetuous daughter and perhaps a bit of resignation. For it is traditionally the lot of mothers to receive, on their special day, clumsy, heartfelt versions of the domestic miracles they themselves pull off so adeptly the rest of the year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much has changed for mothers in the decades since. So many of us work that a day free of housekeeping chores really seems more like a right than a privilege. And being taken out for brunch is maybe a mixed blessing when what you really want is to sleep in. So I'd like to make a subversive sort of argument — for us moms to take charge, at least in part, of our own Mother's Day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rather than passively waiting around for somebody to think of and give you a treat, why not make one of your favorites for yourself? Something you can snack on all week when no one's around. Or, better yet, something you don't have to share. Flowers are nice, perfume is nice, but what really makes me feel special is having a stash of slow-roasted butter pecans that \u003cem>nobody else knows about\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of us like it savory; some of us like sweet. Maybe we pack snacks every day for our kids, or we get dinner on the table every night, or we bring a Tupperware to microwave in the office. The point is that we rarely take the time to make a treat for ourselves. Little salty snacks like nuts and popcorn are satisfying, and really not all that bad for you. Custardy individual-sized sweets are irresistible, as are brittle sweets that go crunch. You could make \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/07/17/156918881/just-add-water-the-miracle-of-seaweed\">spicy seaweed\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/03/21/18183909/say-it-with-chocolate-bread\">chocolate bread\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=7229979\">candied orange peel\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/02/02/5169592/new-years-promises-wrapped-in-gold\">dumplings\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/03/30/134953739/the-other-half-of-the-egg\">macaroons\u003c/a>. Really, there are no rules to what makes a good secret stash food for Mother's Day, as long as you like it and you have the time and energy to make it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Where can you hide your treats? Well, the obvious place is at work, if you work outside the home. If you're at home, seek out the places nobody else seems to know about — like the file cabinet that allows you to produce a months-old receipt from Target when you have to return a nonfunctioning toaster. Or the place where your daughter keeps her chorus folder, or where the button batteries are kept. Store them high (unless your spouse is 6 foot 3) or store them low. The idea is to keep them \u003cem>away from eye level\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Does this seem small-spirited? Somehow calculating? Then I suppose I should admit that deep down, I'm just as sentimental as anybody. When it comes right down to it, the sight of my children growing tall and strong and the sheltering embrace of my husband's arms are all I really ask for as a mother and a wife. And in then end, I will probably end up sharing my treats anyhow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when everyone's away or asleep and a mom's left, once again, with her cares and dreams and never-ending lists, it doesn't hurt to have a little something set aside. It's a reminder that, even then, when Mom's the last thing on everybody's mind, there's still one other person who cares enough to make you smile: \u003cem>you\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"pecans\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Slow-Roasted Butter Pecans\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>These are a Southern specialty I first learned to make from Damon Lee Fowler's \u003c/em>The Savannah Cookbook\u003cem> (Gibbs Smith, 2008). The long, slow roasting brings out delicate, coffeelike undertones in the pecans. In the unlikely event that there are any left after you're done snacking, you can mix them into or scatter them atop ice cream.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61636\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/mompecans.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/mompecans.jpg\" alt=\"Slow-Roasted Butter Pecans. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"750\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61636\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Slow-Roasted Butter Pecans. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 to 8 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 pound shelled whole pecans\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPreheat the oven to 200 degrees. Line a 9-by-13 pan with foil and place the pecans in it, shaking to level them. Cut the butter into 8 small chunks and scatter it over the pecans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roast the pecans in the center of the oven for 1 hour, tossing them well every 15 minutes (it's particularly important after the first 15 minutes, when the butter has first melted). The pecans continue to cook after they come out of the oven, so don't let them get too dark. To test them for doneness, cool a pecan slightly and break it in half. The center should be a delicate but distinct beige.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the pecans are hot, salt them generously and toss until they are well-coated. Devour them immediately, wait until they're cool, or store them (cooled) in an airtight container.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"candy\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Matzo Candy With Caramel, Chocolate And Halvah\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is adapted from Susan Feniger's \u003c/em>Street Food\u003cem> (Clarkson Potter, 2012). I like to use lightly salted matzo, which gives you a little bit of that salted-caramel effect. You can get halvah at most Middle Eastern groceries. You can break up the finished candy into very small, decorous pieces if you are concerned about gorging yourself. I have to warn you that it is terribly addictive.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61634\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 667px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/momcandy.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/momcandy.jpg\" alt=\"Matzo Candy With Caramel, Chocolate And Halvah. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"667\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61634\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matzo Candy With Caramel, Chocolate And Halvah. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 11 matzo candies\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nOlive oil for spraying or filming\u003cbr>\n1 (11-ounce) box matzo crackers (11 crackers)\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n1 cup packed dark brown sugar\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup light corn syrup\u003cbr>\n3/4 teaspoon kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon baking soda\u003cbr>\n3/4 pound semisweet chocolate, roughly chopped\u003cbr>\n1/4 pound (1 cup) halvah, crumbled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSet the oven to 300 degrees. Spray 3 baking sheets with olive oil spray, or spread a small quantity of oil over the sheets with a basting brush. (You can line the sheets with foil if you don't wish to scrub them so much later.) Lay the matzo out in a single layer on the prepared baking sheets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the butter, brown sugar, corn syrup and salt in a small saucepan set over low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 to 4 minutes, until the butter melts. Raise the heat to medium and cook until the mixture is bubbling rapidly, 3 minutes. Add the baking soda, turn off the heat and stir. The caramel mixture will be thick and bubbly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spread the caramel over the top of the matzo crackers, covering their entire surface. Put the baking sheets in the oven and bake for 10 to 15 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the baking sheets from the oven and immediately sprinkle the chopped chocolate over the caramel-covered matzo. Using a rubber spatula or the back of a spoon, spread the chocolate pieces so that they melt and coat the caramel matzo evenly. Work quickly, to take advantage of the hot caramel, which cools rather fast. Then, while the chocolate is still warm, sprinkle with the halvah. Let the matzo cool in the refrigerator for 1 hour or longer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Break the cooled matzo into smaller pieces, and serve. Store any extras in the refrigerator in an airtight container or plastic bags.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"fool\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Rhubarb-Ginger Fool\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Creamy, cool, gently tart, pink and irresistible. \u003c/em>The Beekeeper's Bible\u003cem> (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2011), from which this recipe is liberally adapted, calls for \"stem ginger,\" \"stem ginger syrup\" and \"acacia honey,\" but there is no need to make things difficult. As long as you can find some candied or crystallized ginger, you're in business. If you care for a more refined texture, you could puree the rhubarb-ginger mixture before folding in the cream.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61635\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 839px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/momfool.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/momfool.jpg\" alt=\"Rhubarb-Ginger Fool. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"839\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61635\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rhubarb-Ginger Fool. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 pound rhubarb, trimmed and finely chopped\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon water\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons finely chopped candied ginger\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup turbinado sugar (\"sugar in the raw\")\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons honey\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cups heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nCombine the rhubarb, water, ginger, sugar and honey in a small saucepan and simmer over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, until the rhubarb is soft. Allow the mixture to cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whisk the cream until it achieves soft peaks, then fold in the rhubarb mixture. Spoon the mixture into glasses and chill for 2 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just before serving, drizzle with a little more honey. If you happen to have any ginger snaps on hand, serve them with the fool.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"popcorn\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Posh Porcini Popcorn\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I wouldn't try to make this with air-popped popcorn. Although the porcini salt is fine and powdery, it still needs the oil to make it stick. And as for the truffle oil, it is indispensable. Don't feel bad if you polish this all off in one go — popcorn doesn't keep anyway.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 cups\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup dried porcini (hard to measure, but just approximate without crushing the fungi into the measuring cup)\u003cbr>\nSalt\u003cbr>\n4 cups hot, freshly oil-popped popcorn\u003cbr>\nTruffle oil to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGrind the porcini in a coffee or spice grinder until it's finely powdered — be careful lifting the lid, as it will release clouds of porcini dust. Add about a teaspoon of kosher salt (less, if you're using table salt) and pulse just to combine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scatter over hot, freshly popped popcorn and drizzle with a few decadent drops of truffle oil. Take a moment to toss really well before scarfing down by the fistful.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"sandwich\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Curried Egg Salad Sandwich\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>As much fun as it is to have hoards of secret snacks on the premises, a mom still has to eat a good lunch sometime, and I don't mean a pint of store-bought yogurt or a package of overpriced kale chips. Here's a sandwich that comes together in a moment, but still feels like a special treat. Don't skip buttering the bread — it makes all the difference.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61638\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 355px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/momsandwich.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/momsandwich.jpg\" alt=\"Curried Egg Salad Sandwich. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"355\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61638\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Curried Egg Salad Sandwich. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 sandwich, piled high\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon cooking oil\u003cbr>\n1 medium shallot, finely chopped\u003cbr>\n3/4 teaspoon curry powder\u003cbr>\n1 scant teaspoon apricot jam\u003cbr>\n2 hard-boiled eggs\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons minced chives\u003cbr>\nA few cilantro sprigs, to taste\u003cbr>\nSmall handful baby arugula or watercress\u003cbr>\nSalt, to taste\u003cbr>\nMultigrain bread\u003cbr>\nButter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIn a small, heavy saucepan, warm the oil. Over a low flame, sweat the shallot with a pinch of salt until tender and colored a pale gold (take care not to burn on the edges), about 5 minutes. Add the curry and stir in until well blended and fragrant. Add the jam and 2 to 3 tablespoons of water, stirring until a loose slurry is formed. Simmer gently until you have a thick, syrupy sauce that doesn't run but holds together in the pan, like a chutney or salsa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour the mixture into a shallow bowl to cool for a moment. Pop a couple of slices of multigrain bread in the toaster. If you can keep one side of each slice untoasted by placing the bread face down on a piece of foil or tray, so much the better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the bread is toasting, mash the hard-boiled eggs into the curry sauce with a fork, until the egg salad is as crumbly as you like it. Stir in the chopped chives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the toast is ready, take it out and butter the untoasted sides (if both sides are toasted, don't worry — butter them anyway). Place one slice butter side up on your cutting board and pile on as much egg salad as you like, compressing it a bit to help it stay in. Add on the cilantro and arugula or cress. Top with the remaining slice of bread, butter side facing in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Silence your cellphone. Eat in a warm patch of sunlight while reading a novel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nT. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe\u003c/em>, \u003ca href=\"http://npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR.org\u003c/a> and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a> and has just released the \u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/cookshelf-cookbook-rating/id638554845?mt=8\">CookShelf cookbook-rating app\u003c/a>, which is available on iPhone, iPad and Android devices. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Rather than waiting for someone to give you a treat, why not make one of your favorites for yourself? Something you can snack on all week when no one's around. Or, better yet, something you don't have to share. Food writer T. Susan Chang recommends slow-roasted pecans, salty-sweet matzo candy and more.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1368148071,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":47,"wordCount":2223},"headData":{"title":"Try A Do-It-Yourself Mother's Day | KQED","description":"Rather than waiting for someone to give you a treat, why not make one of your favorites for yourself? Something you can snack on all week when no one's around. Or, better yet, something you don't have to share. Food writer T. Susan Chang recommends slow-roasted pecans, salty-sweet matzo candy and more.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Try A Do-It-Yourself Mother's Day","datePublished":"2013-05-10T01:07:51.000Z","dateModified":"2013-05-10T01:07:51.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"61601 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=61601","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/05/09/try-a-do-it-yourself-mothers-day/","disqusTitle":"Try A Do-It-Yourself Mother's Day","nprByline":"T. Susan Chang","nprStoryId":"181984272","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=181984272&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/2013/05/07/181984272/try-a-do-it-yourself-mothers-day?ft=3&f=181984272","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 08 May 2013 13:22:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 08 May 2013 08:21:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 08 May 2013 13:22:36 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/61601/try-a-do-it-yourself-mothers-day","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61637\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/mompopcorn.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/mompopcorn-1024x681.jpg\" alt=\"Mom's Posh Porcini Popcorn stashed behind the cookbooks. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"681\" class=\"size-large wp-image-61637\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mom's Posh Porcini Popcorn stashed behind the cookbooks. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/05/07/181984272/try-a-do-it-yourself-mothers-day\">Kitchen Window\u003c/a>, NPR Food\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#pecans\">Slow-Roasted Butter Pecans\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#candy\">Matzo Candy With Caramel, Chocolate And Halvah\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#fool\">Rhubarb-Ginger Fool\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#popcorn\">Posh Porcini Popcorn\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#sandwich\">Curried Egg Salad Sandwich\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mother didn't plant a great many spring bulbs. But over by the pachysandra patch, there was a single lovely pink tulip, and I kept my eye on it for two weeks before Mother's Day. When that Sunday morning arrived, I rushed out, snipped it and ran inside to where she lay sleeping to present it to her. \"Did you pick that outside?\" she inquired, her expression shifting from sleepy surprise to something more complicated. I nodded proudly. \"Oh ... thank you, sweetie.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, some 40 years later, I can read that image of my mother's face like a book — chagrin for the flower-picking (she would rather have enjoyed it in the spot where she'd planted it), affection for her impetuous daughter and perhaps a bit of resignation. For it is traditionally the lot of mothers to receive, on their special day, clumsy, heartfelt versions of the domestic miracles they themselves pull off so adeptly the rest of the year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Much has changed for mothers in the decades since. So many of us work that a day free of housekeeping chores really seems more like a right than a privilege. And being taken out for brunch is maybe a mixed blessing when what you really want is to sleep in. So I'd like to make a subversive sort of argument — for us moms to take charge, at least in part, of our own Mother's Day.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Rather than passively waiting around for somebody to think of and give you a treat, why not make one of your favorites for yourself? Something you can snack on all week when no one's around. Or, better yet, something you don't have to share. Flowers are nice, perfume is nice, but what really makes me feel special is having a stash of slow-roasted butter pecans that \u003cem>nobody else knows about\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some of us like it savory; some of us like sweet. Maybe we pack snacks every day for our kids, or we get dinner on the table every night, or we bring a Tupperware to microwave in the office. The point is that we rarely take the time to make a treat for ourselves. Little salty snacks like nuts and popcorn are satisfying, and really not all that bad for you. Custardy individual-sized sweets are irresistible, as are brittle sweets that go crunch. You could make \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/07/17/156918881/just-add-water-the-miracle-of-seaweed\">spicy seaweed\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/03/21/18183909/say-it-with-chocolate-bread\">chocolate bread\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=7229979\">candied orange peel\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/02/02/5169592/new-years-promises-wrapped-in-gold\">dumplings\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/03/30/134953739/the-other-half-of-the-egg\">macaroons\u003c/a>. Really, there are no rules to what makes a good secret stash food for Mother's Day, as long as you like it and you have the time and energy to make it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Where can you hide your treats? Well, the obvious place is at work, if you work outside the home. If you're at home, seek out the places nobody else seems to know about — like the file cabinet that allows you to produce a months-old receipt from Target when you have to return a nonfunctioning toaster. Or the place where your daughter keeps her chorus folder, or where the button batteries are kept. Store them high (unless your spouse is 6 foot 3) or store them low. The idea is to keep them \u003cem>away from eye level\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Does this seem small-spirited? Somehow calculating? Then I suppose I should admit that deep down, I'm just as sentimental as anybody. When it comes right down to it, the sight of my children growing tall and strong and the sheltering embrace of my husband's arms are all I really ask for as a mother and a wife. And in then end, I will probably end up sharing my treats anyhow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when everyone's away or asleep and a mom's left, once again, with her cares and dreams and never-ending lists, it doesn't hurt to have a little something set aside. It's a reminder that, even then, when Mom's the last thing on everybody's mind, there's still one other person who cares enough to make you smile: \u003cem>you\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"pecans\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Slow-Roasted Butter Pecans\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>These are a Southern specialty I first learned to make from Damon Lee Fowler's \u003c/em>The Savannah Cookbook\u003cem> (Gibbs Smith, 2008). The long, slow roasting brings out delicate, coffeelike undertones in the pecans. In the unlikely event that there are any left after you're done snacking, you can mix them into or scatter them atop ice cream.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61636\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/mompecans.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/mompecans.jpg\" alt=\"Slow-Roasted Butter Pecans. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"750\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61636\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Slow-Roasted Butter Pecans. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 to 8 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 pound shelled whole pecans\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPreheat the oven to 200 degrees. Line a 9-by-13 pan with foil and place the pecans in it, shaking to level them. Cut the butter into 8 small chunks and scatter it over the pecans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roast the pecans in the center of the oven for 1 hour, tossing them well every 15 minutes (it's particularly important after the first 15 minutes, when the butter has first melted). The pecans continue to cook after they come out of the oven, so don't let them get too dark. To test them for doneness, cool a pecan slightly and break it in half. The center should be a delicate but distinct beige.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the pecans are hot, salt them generously and toss until they are well-coated. Devour them immediately, wait until they're cool, or store them (cooled) in an airtight container.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"candy\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Matzo Candy With Caramel, Chocolate And Halvah\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is adapted from Susan Feniger's \u003c/em>Street Food\u003cem> (Clarkson Potter, 2012). I like to use lightly salted matzo, which gives you a little bit of that salted-caramel effect. You can get halvah at most Middle Eastern groceries. You can break up the finished candy into very small, decorous pieces if you are concerned about gorging yourself. I have to warn you that it is terribly addictive.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61634\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 667px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/momcandy.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/momcandy.jpg\" alt=\"Matzo Candy With Caramel, Chocolate And Halvah. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"667\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61634\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matzo Candy With Caramel, Chocolate And Halvah. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 11 matzo candies\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nOlive oil for spraying or filming\u003cbr>\n1 (11-ounce) box matzo crackers (11 crackers)\u003cbr>\n1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter\u003cbr>\n1 cup packed dark brown sugar\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup light corn syrup\u003cbr>\n3/4 teaspoon kosher salt\u003cbr>\n1/4 teaspoon baking soda\u003cbr>\n3/4 pound semisweet chocolate, roughly chopped\u003cbr>\n1/4 pound (1 cup) halvah, crumbled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nSet the oven to 300 degrees. Spray 3 baking sheets with olive oil spray, or spread a small quantity of oil over the sheets with a basting brush. (You can line the sheets with foil if you don't wish to scrub them so much later.) Lay the matzo out in a single layer on the prepared baking sheets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the butter, brown sugar, corn syrup and salt in a small saucepan set over low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 to 4 minutes, until the butter melts. Raise the heat to medium and cook until the mixture is bubbling rapidly, 3 minutes. Add the baking soda, turn off the heat and stir. The caramel mixture will be thick and bubbly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spread the caramel over the top of the matzo crackers, covering their entire surface. Put the baking sheets in the oven and bake for 10 to 15 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the baking sheets from the oven and immediately sprinkle the chopped chocolate over the caramel-covered matzo. Using a rubber spatula or the back of a spoon, spread the chocolate pieces so that they melt and coat the caramel matzo evenly. Work quickly, to take advantage of the hot caramel, which cools rather fast. Then, while the chocolate is still warm, sprinkle with the halvah. Let the matzo cool in the refrigerator for 1 hour or longer.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Break the cooled matzo into smaller pieces, and serve. Store any extras in the refrigerator in an airtight container or plastic bags.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"fool\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Rhubarb-Ginger Fool\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Creamy, cool, gently tart, pink and irresistible. \u003c/em>The Beekeeper's Bible\u003cem> (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2011), from which this recipe is liberally adapted, calls for \"stem ginger,\" \"stem ginger syrup\" and \"acacia honey,\" but there is no need to make things difficult. As long as you can find some candied or crystallized ginger, you're in business. If you care for a more refined texture, you could puree the rhubarb-ginger mixture before folding in the cream.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61635\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 839px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/momfool.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/momfool.jpg\" alt=\"Rhubarb-Ginger Fool. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"839\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61635\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rhubarb-Ginger Fool. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 pound rhubarb, trimmed and finely chopped\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon water\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons finely chopped candied ginger\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup turbinado sugar (\"sugar in the raw\")\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons honey\u003cbr>\n1 1/4 cups heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nCombine the rhubarb, water, ginger, sugar and honey in a small saucepan and simmer over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, until the rhubarb is soft. Allow the mixture to cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whisk the cream until it achieves soft peaks, then fold in the rhubarb mixture. Spoon the mixture into glasses and chill for 2 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just before serving, drizzle with a little more honey. If you happen to have any ginger snaps on hand, serve them with the fool.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"popcorn\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Posh Porcini Popcorn\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I wouldn't try to make this with air-popped popcorn. Although the porcini salt is fine and powdery, it still needs the oil to make it stick. And as for the truffle oil, it is indispensable. Don't feel bad if you polish this all off in one go — popcorn doesn't keep anyway.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 cups\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1/4 cup dried porcini (hard to measure, but just approximate without crushing the fungi into the measuring cup)\u003cbr>\nSalt\u003cbr>\n4 cups hot, freshly oil-popped popcorn\u003cbr>\nTruffle oil to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nGrind the porcini in a coffee or spice grinder until it's finely powdered — be careful lifting the lid, as it will release clouds of porcini dust. Add about a teaspoon of kosher salt (less, if you're using table salt) and pulse just to combine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scatter over hot, freshly popped popcorn and drizzle with a few decadent drops of truffle oil. Take a moment to toss really well before scarfing down by the fistful.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"sandwich\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Curried Egg Salad Sandwich\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>As much fun as it is to have hoards of secret snacks on the premises, a mom still has to eat a good lunch sometime, and I don't mean a pint of store-bought yogurt or a package of overpriced kale chips. Here's a sandwich that comes together in a moment, but still feels like a special treat. Don't skip buttering the bread — it makes all the difference.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_61638\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 355px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/momsandwich.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/05/momsandwich.jpg\" alt=\"Curried Egg Salad Sandwich. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"355\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-61638\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Curried Egg Salad Sandwich. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 sandwich, piled high\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon cooking oil\u003cbr>\n1 medium shallot, finely chopped\u003cbr>\n3/4 teaspoon curry powder\u003cbr>\n1 scant teaspoon apricot jam\u003cbr>\n2 hard-boiled eggs\u003cbr>\n2 tablespoons minced chives\u003cbr>\nA few cilantro sprigs, to taste\u003cbr>\nSmall handful baby arugula or watercress\u003cbr>\nSalt, to taste\u003cbr>\nMultigrain bread\u003cbr>\nButter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nIn a small, heavy saucepan, warm the oil. Over a low flame, sweat the shallot with a pinch of salt until tender and colored a pale gold (take care not to burn on the edges), about 5 minutes. Add the curry and stir in until well blended and fragrant. Add the jam and 2 to 3 tablespoons of water, stirring until a loose slurry is formed. Simmer gently until you have a thick, syrupy sauce that doesn't run but holds together in the pan, like a chutney or salsa.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour the mixture into a shallow bowl to cool for a moment. Pop a couple of slices of multigrain bread in the toaster. If you can keep one side of each slice untoasted by placing the bread face down on a piece of foil or tray, so much the better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the bread is toasting, mash the hard-boiled eggs into the curry sauce with a fork, until the egg salad is as crumbly as you like it. Stir in the chopped chives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the toast is ready, take it out and butter the untoasted sides (if both sides are toasted, don't worry — butter them anyway). Place one slice butter side up on your cutting board and pile on as much egg salad as you like, compressing it a bit to help it stay in. Add on the cilantro and arugula or cress. Top with the remaining slice of bread, butter side facing in.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Silence your cellphone. Eat in a warm patch of sunlight while reading a novel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nT. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe\u003c/em>, \u003ca href=\"http://npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR.org\u003c/a> and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a> and has just released the \u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/cookshelf-cookbook-rating/id638554845?mt=8\">CookShelf cookbook-rating app\u003c/a>, which is available on iPhone, iPad and Android devices. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/61601/try-a-do-it-yourself-mothers-day","authors":["byline_bayareabites_61601"],"categories":["bayareabites_2638","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_1246","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_987","bayareabites_11086","bayareabites_3992","bayareabites_11121","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_61602","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_59787":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_59787","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"59787","score":null,"sort":[1365694231000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"preserved-lemons-older-wiser-and-full-of-flavor","title":"Preserved Lemons: Older, Wiser And Full Of Flavor","publishDate":1365694231,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59797\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemons.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemons-1024x574.jpg\" alt=\"All you need for preserving lemons is a jar with a tight-fitting lid, lemons and salt -- and time. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"574\" class=\"size-large wp-image-59797\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All you need for preserving lemons is a jar with a tight-fitting lid, lemons and salt -- and time.\u003cbr>Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/08/176577903/preserved-lemons-older-wiser-and-full-of-flavor\">Kitchen Window\u003c/a>, NPR Food (4/10/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#lemons\">Preserved Lemons\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#chicken\">Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#couscous\">Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#vinaigrette\">Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On many occasions in my longtime relationship with cookbooks, I have had this experience (which will sound familiar, if you like Middle Eastern flavors as much as I do). I'm happily paging through my new Moroccan or Lebanese or Israeli book, lost in dreams of lamb and sumac, saffron and figs. \"Mmmm,\" I murmur over a glossy page, \"\u003cem>that\u003c/em> looks delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I trace my finger down the ingredients list. Shallots, check. Tomatoes, check. Cinnamon stick, check. And then there it is: \u003cem>Preserved lemon\u003c/em>. \"Drat,\" I think. \"Foiled again.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's the thing about preserved lemons: They're not the sort of thing you can just pick up anywhere. And while they're easy to make, it's not like you can just say, \"Oh, I'll do them tomorrow afternoon, and then we'll have the lamb Thursday.\" Preserved lemons can take a month — certainly not less than two weeks. By that time, I've put aside my North African cookbooks and I'm on to an easy French or Hunan cookbook, or a book that's all about ice cream or pickles. Preserved lemons are not great if you have a short attention span.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the other hand, they keep practically forever. So if you can just make up your mind one afternoon to spend the 15 minutes it takes to cut, salt and jar them, afterward you can pretty much forget about them for as long as you like, or until you happen to think about Mediterranean citruses again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only real problem is that they might be taking up valuable real estate in the fridge, where someone not in the know might mistake them for a project gone wrong and toss them. If this is a habit among members of your family, I recommend that you train them out of it. (\"Whoever throws something out has to taste it first\" is an extremely effective rule.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you've stashed away your very own golden hoard, you're set. You can pair your preserved lemons with olives (is there any other cuisine which makes such magic with old, salty fruits?) in the traditional, braised fashion. You can dress them up with lashings of butter in potatoes or risottos or couscous. They stand up to garlic, and they cooperate with cilantro. They nicely balance sweet flavors, such as dried apricots or honey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once, the reason for preserving lemons was the usual one: It was a way of continuing to enjoy the fruit after its season had passed. But the flavor of a preserved lemon needs no justification. It's mellow yet intensely lemony, with none of the nose-tickling bright, high notes of the fresh lemon. The peel — which is the part you use, usually — is soft to the touch and satiny in the mouth. It's translucent, with a muted yellow luster when you hold it to the light, which I like to do just for fun after pulling out the pulp and rinsing off the salt. Sometimes, if the peel happens to be particularly thick, I laterally slice off another quarter-inch layer of pith from the inside, the better to taste and smell that shining cortex.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, of course, you can get adorable young lemons pretty much any time you want. (You can even get organic ones by the bag.) They're firm, fresh and tart, and sometimes there really is nothing you want more. But give me my old lemons, mild and mellowed, a little soft and salty, making everything around them seem a little sweeter. They're not the only ones, I hope, that grow more tender as they age.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"lemons\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Preserved Lemons\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can find a recipe for preserved lemons just about anywhere, they're that easy. Here's an adaptation of one from Claudia Roden's Arabesque (Knopf, 2005). I used kosher salt, and I can't see that it did any harm.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 lemons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 4 additional lemons, or more to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wash and scrub the lemons. The classic Moroccan way is to cut each lemon in quarters but not right through, so that the pieces are still attached at the stem end, and to stuff each with a tablespoon of salt and squeeze it closed. Put them in a sterilized preserving jar, pressing them down so that they are squashed together, and close the jar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leave for 3 to 4 days, by which time the lemons will have disgorged some of their juices and the skins will have softened a little. Open the jar and press the lemons down as much as you can, then add fresh lemon juice to cover them entirely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Close the jar and leave in a cool place for at least a month. The longer they are left, the better the flavor. (If a piece of lemon is not covered, it develops a white mold that is harmless and just needs to be washed off.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before using, scoop out and discard the pulp, and rinse the lemon peel under the tap to get rid of the salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"chicken\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is the absolute best-known way to eat preserved lemon, and for good reason. I have two-dozen recipes for chicken with preserved lemon and olives on my shelves, but Claudia Roden's recipe from Arabesque (Knopf, 2005) is my choice for its sheer clarity and sure-footedness.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59798\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonschicken.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonschicken.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"750\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59798\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 onions, grated or very finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 3 garlic cloves, crushed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon crushed saffron threads or saffron powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 chicken, cut up in 8 or 10 pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 1/2 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons chopped coriander\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peel of 1 large or 2 small preserved lemons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 to 16 green olives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a wide casserole or heavy-bottomed pan that can hold all the chicken pieces in one layer, heat the oil and put in the onions. Saute, stirring over low heat, until they soften, then stir in the garlic, saffron and ginger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put in the chicken pieces, season with salt and pepper, and pour in about 1 cup water. Simmer, covered, turning the pieces over a few times and adding a little more water if it becomes too dry. Lift out the breasts after about 15 minutes and put them to one side. Continue to cook the remaining pieces for another 25 minutes or so, after which time return the breasts to the pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stir into the sauce the lemon juice, the chopped coriander and parsley, the preserved lemon peel cut into quarters or strips, and the olives. Simmer uncovered for 5 to 10 minutes, until the reduced sauce is thick and unctuous. If there is too much liquid, lift out the chicken pieces and set aside while you reduce the sauce further, then return the chicken to the pan and heat through.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Present the chicken on a serving dish with the olives and lemon peel on top of the meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"couscous\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I had my doubts at first about this recipe, which you can find in Yotam Ottolenghi's \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/06/26/137402727/for-london-chef-plenty-to-love-about-vegetables\">Plenty\u003c/a> (Chronicle, 2010), under the name \"Ultimate Winter Couscous.\" Could any such medley of starchy roots, I wondered, be made to sing? Well, sing they did, and so decisively that I hoarded the leftovers for lunch. I should also note that the day I made it, the refrigerator shelves were at high tide and I couldn't find my \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/06/04/154293245/harissa-the-story-behind-north-africas-favorite-hot-sauce\">harissa\u003c/a>. Instead, I used a Turkish red pepper paste, and it was smashing.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59799\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 411px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonscouscous.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonscouscous.jpg\" alt=\"Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"411\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59799\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings (or more)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium parsnips, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 shallots, peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cinnamon sticks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 star anise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 bay leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon hot paprika\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon chili flakes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups cubed pumpkin or butternut squash (from a 10-ounce squash)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup dried apricots, roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup chickpeas (canned or freshly cooked)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups chickpea cooking liquid and/or water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup couscous\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Large pinch saffron\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup boiling vegetable stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons butter, broken into pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons harissa\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ounce preserved lemon, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups cilantro leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the carrots, parsnips and shallots in a large ovenproof dish. Add the cinnamon sticks, star anise, bay leaves, 4 tablespoons of the oil, 3/4 teaspoon of salt and all the other spices and mix well. Place in the oven and cook for 15 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the pumpkin, stir and return to the oven. Continue cooking for about 35 minutes, by which time the vegetables should have softened while retaining a bite. Now add the dried apricots and the chickpeas with their cooking liquid and/or water. Return to the oven and cook for another 10 minutes, or until hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 15 minutes before the vegetables are ready, put the couscous in a large heatproof bowl with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, the saffron and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Pour the boiling stock over the couscous. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave for about 10 minutes. Then add the butter and fluff up the couscous with a fork until the butter melts in. Cover again and leave somewhere warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve, spoon couscous into a deep plate or bowl. Stir the harissa and preserved lemon into the vegetables; taste and add salt if needed. Spoon the vegetables onto the center of the couscous. Finish with plenty of cilantro leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"vinaigrette\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I discovered the original of this one, unexpectedly, in the pages of Hot and Hot Fish Club, a Southern cookbook published by Perseus in 2009. I can't think of a more perfect way to use it than drizzled thickly over a batch of crisp roast potatoes.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59796\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 777px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonsvinaigrette.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonsvinaigrette.jpg\" alt=\"Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"777\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59796\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1/2 cup dressing\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 of a whole preserved lemon peel\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon very finely minced or grated shallot\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons finely chopped chives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons finely chopped thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the lemon peel is thin, simply mince it as finely as you can. If it's thick, divide the lemon peel quarter lengthwise and set each half peel-side down on the cutting board. Steadying the peel by flattening it with the tips of your fingertips, carefully make a lateral slice between the pith and peel and work your way across until you've removed a layer of soft pith. Repeat with the other half, and then you can mince the peels with ease.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the preserved lemon with the other ingredients and give them a good whisk. You may not need to salt at all, given the saltiness of the lemon peel. Use at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nT. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe\u003c/em>, NPR.org and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a>. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Salted and aged, the fruit develops mellow yet intensely lemony flavor, with none of the nose-tickling bright, high notes of the fresh version. Though they do take some time, preserved lemons are easy to make, keep practically forever, and make everything around them seem a little sweeter.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1365694231,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":81,"wordCount":2006},"headData":{"title":"Preserved Lemons: Older, Wiser And Full Of Flavor | KQED","description":"Salted and aged, the fruit develops mellow yet intensely lemony flavor, with none of the nose-tickling bright, high notes of the fresh version. Though they do take some time, preserved lemons are easy to make, keep practically forever, and make everything around them seem a little sweeter.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Preserved Lemons: Older, Wiser And Full Of Flavor","datePublished":"2013-04-11T15:30:31.000Z","dateModified":"2013-04-11T15:30:31.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"59787 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=59787","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/04/11/preserved-lemons-older-wiser-and-full-of-flavor/","disqusTitle":"Preserved Lemons: Older, Wiser And Full Of Flavor","nprByline":"T. Susan Chang","nprStoryId":"176577903","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=176577903&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/08/176577903/preserved-lemons-older-wiser-and-full-of-flavor?ft=3&f=176577903","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 10 Apr 2013 02:11:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 10 Apr 2013 02:11:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 10 Apr 2013 02:11:54 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/59787/preserved-lemons-older-wiser-and-full-of-flavor","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59797\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemons.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemons-1024x574.jpg\" alt=\"All you need for preserving lemons is a jar with a tight-fitting lid, lemons and salt -- and time. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"574\" class=\"size-large wp-image-59797\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">All you need for preserving lemons is a jar with a tight-fitting lid, lemons and salt -- and time.\u003cbr>Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/04/08/176577903/preserved-lemons-older-wiser-and-full-of-flavor\">Kitchen Window\u003c/a>, NPR Food (4/10/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#lemons\">Preserved Lemons\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#chicken\">Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#couscous\">Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#vinaigrette\">Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On many occasions in my longtime relationship with cookbooks, I have had this experience (which will sound familiar, if you like Middle Eastern flavors as much as I do). I'm happily paging through my new Moroccan or Lebanese or Israeli book, lost in dreams of lamb and sumac, saffron and figs. \"Mmmm,\" I murmur over a glossy page, \"\u003cem>that\u003c/em> looks delicious.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I trace my finger down the ingredients list. Shallots, check. Tomatoes, check. Cinnamon stick, check. And then there it is: \u003cem>Preserved lemon\u003c/em>. \"Drat,\" I think. \"Foiled again.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here's the thing about preserved lemons: They're not the sort of thing you can just pick up anywhere. And while they're easy to make, it's not like you can just say, \"Oh, I'll do them tomorrow afternoon, and then we'll have the lamb Thursday.\" Preserved lemons can take a month — certainly not less than two weeks. By that time, I've put aside my North African cookbooks and I'm on to an easy French or Hunan cookbook, or a book that's all about ice cream or pickles. Preserved lemons are not great if you have a short attention span.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the other hand, they keep practically forever. So if you can just make up your mind one afternoon to spend the 15 minutes it takes to cut, salt and jar them, afterward you can pretty much forget about them for as long as you like, or until you happen to think about Mediterranean citruses again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only real problem is that they might be taking up valuable real estate in the fridge, where someone not in the know might mistake them for a project gone wrong and toss them. If this is a habit among members of your family, I recommend that you train them out of it. (\"Whoever throws something out has to taste it first\" is an extremely effective rule.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you've stashed away your very own golden hoard, you're set. You can pair your preserved lemons with olives (is there any other cuisine which makes such magic with old, salty fruits?) in the traditional, braised fashion. You can dress them up with lashings of butter in potatoes or risottos or couscous. They stand up to garlic, and they cooperate with cilantro. They nicely balance sweet flavors, such as dried apricots or honey.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once, the reason for preserving lemons was the usual one: It was a way of continuing to enjoy the fruit after its season had passed. But the flavor of a preserved lemon needs no justification. It's mellow yet intensely lemony, with none of the nose-tickling bright, high notes of the fresh lemon. The peel — which is the part you use, usually — is soft to the touch and satiny in the mouth. It's translucent, with a muted yellow luster when you hold it to the light, which I like to do just for fun after pulling out the pulp and rinsing off the salt. Sometimes, if the peel happens to be particularly thick, I laterally slice off another quarter-inch layer of pith from the inside, the better to taste and smell that shining cortex.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These days, of course, you can get adorable young lemons pretty much any time you want. (You can even get organic ones by the bag.) They're firm, fresh and tart, and sometimes there really is nothing you want more. But give me my old lemons, mild and mellowed, a little soft and salty, making everything around them seem a little sweeter. They're not the only ones, I hope, that grow more tender as they age.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"lemons\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Preserved Lemons\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can find a recipe for preserved lemons just about anywhere, they're that easy. Here's an adaptation of one from Claudia Roden's Arabesque (Knopf, 2005). I used kosher salt, and I can't see that it did any harm.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 lemons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 4 additional lemons, or more to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wash and scrub the lemons. The classic Moroccan way is to cut each lemon in quarters but not right through, so that the pieces are still attached at the stem end, and to stuff each with a tablespoon of salt and squeeze it closed. Put them in a sterilized preserving jar, pressing them down so that they are squashed together, and close the jar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Leave for 3 to 4 days, by which time the lemons will have disgorged some of their juices and the skins will have softened a little. Open the jar and press the lemons down as much as you can, then add fresh lemon juice to cover them entirely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Close the jar and leave in a cool place for at least a month. The longer they are left, the better the flavor. (If a piece of lemon is not covered, it develops a white mold that is harmless and just needs to be washed off.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before using, scoop out and discard the pulp, and rinse the lemon peel under the tap to get rid of the salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"chicken\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is the absolute best-known way to eat preserved lemon, and for good reason. I have two-dozen recipes for chicken with preserved lemon and olives on my shelves, but Claudia Roden's recipe from Arabesque (Knopf, 2005) is my choice for its sheer clarity and sure-footedness.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59798\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonschicken.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonschicken.jpg\" alt=\"Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"750\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59798\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chicken With Preserved Lemon And Green Olives. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 onions, grated or very finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 3 garlic cloves, crushed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon crushed saffron threads or saffron powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 chicken, cut up in 8 or 10 pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 1/2 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons chopped coriander\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peel of 1 large or 2 small preserved lemons\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 to 16 green olives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a wide casserole or heavy-bottomed pan that can hold all the chicken pieces in one layer, heat the oil and put in the onions. Saute, stirring over low heat, until they soften, then stir in the garlic, saffron and ginger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put in the chicken pieces, season with salt and pepper, and pour in about 1 cup water. Simmer, covered, turning the pieces over a few times and adding a little more water if it becomes too dry. Lift out the breasts after about 15 minutes and put them to one side. Continue to cook the remaining pieces for another 25 minutes or so, after which time return the breasts to the pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stir into the sauce the lemon juice, the chopped coriander and parsley, the preserved lemon peel cut into quarters or strips, and the olives. Simmer uncovered for 5 to 10 minutes, until the reduced sauce is thick and unctuous. If there is too much liquid, lift out the chicken pieces and set aside while you reduce the sauce further, then return the chicken to the pan and heat through.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Present the chicken on a serving dish with the olives and lemon peel on top of the meat.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"couscous\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I had my doubts at first about this recipe, which you can find in Yotam Ottolenghi's \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/06/26/137402727/for-london-chef-plenty-to-love-about-vegetables\">Plenty\u003c/a> (Chronicle, 2010), under the name \"Ultimate Winter Couscous.\" Could any such medley of starchy roots, I wondered, be made to sing? Well, sing they did, and so decisively that I hoarded the leftovers for lunch. I should also note that the day I made it, the refrigerator shelves were at high tide and I couldn't find my \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/06/04/154293245/harissa-the-story-behind-north-africas-favorite-hot-sauce\">harissa\u003c/a>. Instead, I used a Turkish red pepper paste, and it was smashing.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59799\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 411px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonscouscous.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonscouscous.jpg\" alt=\"Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"411\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59799\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Root Vegetable Couscous With Preserved Lemon. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings (or more)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium parsnips, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch chunks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 shallots, peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cinnamon sticks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 star anise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 bay leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon hot paprika\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon chili flakes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups cubed pumpkin or butternut squash (from a 10-ounce squash)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup dried apricots, roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup chickpeas (canned or freshly cooked)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups chickpea cooking liquid and/or water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup couscous\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Large pinch saffron\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup boiling vegetable stock\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons butter, broken into pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons harissa\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 ounce preserved lemon, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups cilantro leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the carrots, parsnips and shallots in a large ovenproof dish. Add the cinnamon sticks, star anise, bay leaves, 4 tablespoons of the oil, 3/4 teaspoon of salt and all the other spices and mix well. Place in the oven and cook for 15 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the pumpkin, stir and return to the oven. Continue cooking for about 35 minutes, by which time the vegetables should have softened while retaining a bite. Now add the dried apricots and the chickpeas with their cooking liquid and/or water. Return to the oven and cook for another 10 minutes, or until hot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 15 minutes before the vegetables are ready, put the couscous in a large heatproof bowl with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, the saffron and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Pour the boiling stock over the couscous. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave for about 10 minutes. Then add the butter and fluff up the couscous with a fork until the butter melts in. Cover again and leave somewhere warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To serve, spoon couscous into a deep plate or bowl. Stir the harissa and preserved lemon into the vegetables; taste and add salt if needed. Spoon the vegetables onto the center of the couscous. Finish with plenty of cilantro leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"vinaigrette\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I discovered the original of this one, unexpectedly, in the pages of Hot and Hot Fish Club, a Southern cookbook published by Perseus in 2009. I can't think of a more perfect way to use it than drizzled thickly over a batch of crisp roast potatoes.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_59796\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 777px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonsvinaigrette.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/04/lemonsvinaigrette.jpg\" alt=\"Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"777\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-59796\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1/2 cup dressing\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 of a whole preserved lemon peel\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon very finely minced or grated shallot\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons finely chopped chives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons finely chopped thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the lemon peel is thin, simply mince it as finely as you can. If it's thick, divide the lemon peel quarter lengthwise and set each half peel-side down on the cutting board. Steadying the peel by flattening it with the tips of your fingertips, carefully make a lateral slice between the pith and peel and work your way across until you've removed a layer of soft pith. Repeat with the other half, and then you can mince the peels with ease.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Combine the preserved lemon with the other ingredients and give them a good whisk. You may not need to salt at all, given the saltiness of the lemon peel. Use at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nT. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe\u003c/em>, NPR.org and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a>. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/59787/preserved-lemons-older-wiser-and-full-of-flavor","authors":["byline_bayareabites_59787"],"categories":["bayareabites_2638","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_11086","bayareabites_3667","bayareabites_11535","bayareabites_11121"],"featImg":"bayareabites_59788","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_57509":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_57509","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"57509","score":null,"sort":[1361953948000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"in-praise-of-the-humble-lentil","title":"In Praise Of The Humble Lentil","publishDate":1361953948,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57522\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 890px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/lentils.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/lentils.jpg\" alt=\"Three types of lentils in jars. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"890\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57522\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Three types of lentils in jars. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/02/25/172894702/in-praise-of-the-humble-lentil\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/27/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#mejadra\">Mudardara (Mejadra)\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#meatballs\">Lentil Meatballs With Lemon Pesto\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#dal\">Red Lentil Dal\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The year I discovered lentils, I was broke and lonely and didn't know how to cook. Lentils, it turned out, would have gone a long way toward providing the solution to some of these problems. However, when I first had them, they were a mystery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They also were the cheapest thing on the menu at the Middle Eastern deli around the corner. The dish was \u003cem>mudardara\u003c/em>, I was told. \"What's that again?\" I said, unable to untangle the knot of plosive consonants. It was repeated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I sat by the window, watching the rain trickle down the plate glass, and slowly ate what I couldn't pronounce: the rice, the lentils, the caramelized onions. At the time, it seemed like the best food in the world — filling, nutty and earthen, the onions sweet and crisp on the edges. As I walked the block home, I muttered, \"Muhdaahrderer, moojardarah, murdarjerer,\" stumbling over the rolled \"r\" in the middle and wondering how I would go about ordering it the next time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn't know then that \u003cem>mudardara\u003c/em> is as common as can be — a staple found throughout the Arab world — and is spelled \u003cem>mejadra \u003c/em>and\u003cem> mjaddarah\u003c/em> among others. Though it's thought to have originated in Persia, it's eaten everywhere between Greece and India, from North Africa to the Black Sea. Even if you have almost nothing, you can probably scrape together a handful of rice and a handful of lentils, and if you can do that, you have \u003cem>mudardara\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many other intrinsically boring foods — say, tofu or grits — lentils shine because they get out of the way. They provide a vehicle and a backdrop for other flavors — whether it's good olive oil and gently gilded onions, or ground spices or minted yogurt. They provide a sturdy, comforting stage for a colorful cast of characters, from chaste cumin to tart sumac, brilliant lemon zest to cool cucumber.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took me awhile to learn my away around the understated charm of lentils. I started with \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=95605411\">soup\u003c/a>, which was a cinch to make. Dry lentils were another story. Eventually, after many tooth-cracking undercooked lentils, I learned to pan-steam them with rice into the corner deli's signature dish. I learned, too, that the flavor wasn't magic. It was onions, as is usually the case. It's said that Esau's mess of potage — the one for which he sold his birthright — was an early variation of \u003cem>mudardara\u003c/em>. If it had fried onions, then I think I know how he felt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the years, I have come to love lentils many different ways. I eat them in stews. I eat them seethed with bits of bacon or salt pork. I like them in cold salads. I especially like the red split lentils as \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/10/16/163014529/dals-simple-indian-comfort-food\">a hot, spiced \u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/10/16/163014529/dals-simple-indian-comfort-food\">dal\u003c/a>\u003cem>. \u003c/em>I recently found a recipe that transforms them into \"meatballs\" — airy, nutty, meatless ones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet time and again, I return to that ancient blend of rice and legumes. It's not that I would sell my birthright (whatever that might be — my father's name? my mother's good teeth?). But somehow, after eating my lentils, I always feel comfortably full, as if I could want for nothing. And if I can pass along to my children the know-how expressed in a dash of cumin, a handful of grains and a crisply dealt-with onion, surely that's an inheritance worth a good deal more than a hill of beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"mejadra\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Mudardara, Or Mejadra\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This version comes from \u003c/em>Jerusalem\u003cem> (10 Speed Press, 2012), the smashing cookbook by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi. It has lots and lots of fried onions. It's not a deep fry so much as a shallow fry, and the onions are so very, very good. If you don't want to fry, you can certainly caramelize the onions instead (using 3 tablespoons of oil and taking unhurried pains with the texture and the color).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57521\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/lentilsmejadra.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/lentilsmejadra.jpg\" alt=\"Mudardara, Or Mejadra. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"750\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57521\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mudardara, Or Mejadra. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 cups green or brown lentils\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 medium onions (1 1/2 pounds before peeling)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 teaspoons salt, divided\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup sunflower oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons cumin seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 tablespoons coriander seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup basmati rice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 teaspoons ground allspice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the lentils in a small saucepan, cover with plenty of water, bring to a boil and cook 12 to 15 minutes, until lentils have softened but still have a little bite. Drain and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peel onions and slice thinly. Place on a large flat plate, sprinkle with the flour and 1 teaspoon salt, and mix well with your hands. Heat sunflower oil in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan placed over high heat. Make sure the oil is hot by throwing in a small piece of onion; it should sizzle vigorously. Reduce the heat to medium-high and carefully (it may spit!) add a third of the sliced onion. Fry for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally with a slotted spoon, until the onion takes on a nice golden brown color and turns crispy (adjust the temperature so the onion doesn't fry too quickly and burn). Use the spoon to transfer the onion to a colander lined with paper towels and sprinkle with a little more salt. Do the same with the other two batches of onion, adding a little extra oil if needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wipe clean the saucepan in which you fried the onion, and put in the cumin and coriander seeds. Place over medium heat and toast the seeds for a minute or two. Add the rice, olive oil, turmeric, allspice, cinnamon, sugar, remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and plenty of black pepper. Stir to coat the rice with the oil, then add the cooked lentils and the water. Bring to a boil, cover with a lid and simmer over very low heat for 15 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove from the heat, lift off the lid and quickly cover the pan with a clean tea towel. Seal tightly with the lid and set aside for 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, add half the fried onion to the rice and lentils and stir gently with a fork. Pile the mixture in a shallow serving bowl and top with the rest of the onion.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"meatballs\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Lentil Meatballs With Lemon Pesto\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>These meatballs, from Sara Forte's \u003c/em>The Sprouted Kitchen\u003cem> (10 Speed Press, 2012), are surprisingly light in texture, though robust in flavor. Don't skip the pesto, as it makes the dish — if Meyer lemons are not to be had, regular lemons will do.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57523\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/lentilsmeatballs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/lentilsmeatballs.jpg\" alt=\"Lentil Meatballs With Lemon Pesto. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"750\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57523\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lentil Meatballs With Lemon Pesto. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup lentils, rinsed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large eggs, lightly beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup ricotta\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cloves garlic, minced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few pinches of fresh thyme leaves or dried thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2/3 cup breadcrumbs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lemon Pesto Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 clove garlic\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup pine nuts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grated zest and juice of 1 Meyer lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup packed fresh basil leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 to 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the lentils in a pot with the water and bring to a gentle boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, uncovered, until the lentils are tender, 15 to 20 minutes, adding water if the liquid has evaporated and the lentils are still tough. Drain the lentils and set aside to cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer the lentils to a food processor and pulse until a chunky puree forms. Transfer to a large mixing bowl and add the eggs, olive oil, ricotta, Parmesan, garlic, fennel seeds, parsley, thyme, salt and pepper. Stir to combine well. Stir in the bread crumbs and let sit at room temperature for 15 minutes to allow the flavors to blend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 400 degrees, and line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. In the meantime, make pesto. In a food processor or mini blender, blend the garlic, pine nuts, lemon zest and juice, and salt until smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the basil, 1/4 cup of olive oil and Parmesan, and pulse again until smooth, adding more olive oil as needed to smooth it out, and a bit of water as needed to get a thinner, saucelike consistency.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Check the lentil mixture by rolling a 1-inch ball together between your palms; it should hold together fairly well. If it seems too wet, add another tablespoon or two of the breadcrumbs to the mixture. Roll the lentil mixture into 1-inch balls and arrange them on the prepared baking sheet. They don't need a lot of space between. If you like a bit more of a crust, give them a thin brush of olive oil. Bake until the tops are golden brown, gently turning the balls over halfway through, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove to cool slightly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve with a drizzle of pesto sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"dal\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Red Lentil Dal\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This very traditional recipe originally came from a family friend, Rohini Nilekani. I like it best with red split lentils (masoor dal), although yellow lentils (moong dal) also are good. You can find them at many natural foods stores, as well as online and at Indian groceries. The latter are your best bet for the harder-to-find items, such as fenugreek and curry leaves.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups red split lentils (masoor dal) or yellow lentils\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon black or brown mustard seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons fenugreek seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons cumin seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium onions, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 or 2 small fresh green chili peppers (e.g. Thai bird chilies), finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>10 to 12 curry leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons tomato paste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons ground coriander\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of turmeric\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of cayenne\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon ground fennel seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cilantro sprigs to garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooked rice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To cook the dal, place the lentils in a medium saucepan and cover with water by about 2 inches. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer, stirring often, until the dal forms a loose, tender mass (or until it achieves the texture you prefer), about 15 to 20 minutes depending on the age of the dal. Salt to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a heavy skillet, heat the oil over a medium-high flame until it shimmers. Grab a splatter screen or cover and add the mustard, fenugreek and cumin seeds to the pan (the mustard seeds will instantly begin to pop, so wield the splatter screen wisely). \u003cem>Before\u003c/em> the popping ceases, add the chopped onions, chili peppers and curry leaves, and reduce the heat to medium. Gently cook the onion mixture until the onions have softened and show a pale gold, stirring as you go and checking for salt, about 15 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the tomato paste and stir to amalgamate. If the onion-spice mixture is very dry and stiff, add water to loosen it until aromatic and slightly wet. Add the coriander, turmeric, cayenne and fennel and stir to mix. Add the cooked dal with salt to taste, and cook very gently until just married, turning off the heat before the pan dries out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Garnish with cilantro and serve with rice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nT. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe\u003c/em>, NPR.org and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a>. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Like many other intrinsically boring foods — say, tofu or grits — lentils shine because they get out of the way. They provide a vehicle and a backdrop for other flavors — whether it's good olive oil and gently gilded onions, or ground spices and lemony pesto.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1361954016,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":87,"wordCount":2049},"headData":{"title":"In Praise Of The Humble Lentil | KQED","description":"Like many other intrinsically boring foods — say, tofu or grits — lentils shine because they get out of the way. They provide a vehicle and a backdrop for other flavors — whether it's good olive oil and gently gilded onions, or ground spices and lemony pesto.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"In Praise Of The Humble Lentil","datePublished":"2013-02-27T08:32:28.000Z","dateModified":"2013-02-27T08:33:36.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"57509 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=57509","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/02/27/in-praise-of-the-humble-lentil/","disqusTitle":"In Praise Of The Humble Lentil","nprByline":"T. Susan Chang","nprStoryId":"172894702","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=172894702&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/2013/02/25/172894702/in-praise-of-the-humble-lentil?ft=3&f=172894702","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 27 Feb 2013 02:01:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 27 Feb 2013 01:54:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 27 Feb 2013 02:01:18 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/57509/in-praise-of-the-humble-lentil","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57522\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 890px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/lentils.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/lentils.jpg\" alt=\"Three types of lentils in jars. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"890\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57522\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Three types of lentils in jars. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/02/25/172894702/in-praise-of-the-humble-lentil\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/27/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#mejadra\">Mudardara (Mejadra)\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#meatballs\">Lentil Meatballs With Lemon Pesto\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#dal\">Red Lentil Dal\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The year I discovered lentils, I was broke and lonely and didn't know how to cook. Lentils, it turned out, would have gone a long way toward providing the solution to some of these problems. However, when I first had them, they were a mystery.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They also were the cheapest thing on the menu at the Middle Eastern deli around the corner. The dish was \u003cem>mudardara\u003c/em>, I was told. \"What's that again?\" I said, unable to untangle the knot of plosive consonants. It was repeated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I sat by the window, watching the rain trickle down the plate glass, and slowly ate what I couldn't pronounce: the rice, the lentils, the caramelized onions. At the time, it seemed like the best food in the world — filling, nutty and earthen, the onions sweet and crisp on the edges. As I walked the block home, I muttered, \"Muhdaahrderer, moojardarah, murdarjerer,\" stumbling over the rolled \"r\" in the middle and wondering how I would go about ordering it the next time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I didn't know then that \u003cem>mudardara\u003c/em> is as common as can be — a staple found throughout the Arab world — and is spelled \u003cem>mejadra \u003c/em>and\u003cem> mjaddarah\u003c/em> among others. Though it's thought to have originated in Persia, it's eaten everywhere between Greece and India, from North Africa to the Black Sea. Even if you have almost nothing, you can probably scrape together a handful of rice and a handful of lentils, and if you can do that, you have \u003cem>mudardara\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like many other intrinsically boring foods — say, tofu or grits — lentils shine because they get out of the way. They provide a vehicle and a backdrop for other flavors — whether it's good olive oil and gently gilded onions, or ground spices or minted yogurt. They provide a sturdy, comforting stage for a colorful cast of characters, from chaste cumin to tart sumac, brilliant lemon zest to cool cucumber.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It took me awhile to learn my away around the understated charm of lentils. I started with \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=95605411\">soup\u003c/a>, which was a cinch to make. Dry lentils were another story. Eventually, after many tooth-cracking undercooked lentils, I learned to pan-steam them with rice into the corner deli's signature dish. I learned, too, that the flavor wasn't magic. It was onions, as is usually the case. It's said that Esau's mess of potage — the one for which he sold his birthright — was an early variation of \u003cem>mudardara\u003c/em>. If it had fried onions, then I think I know how he felt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the years, I have come to love lentils many different ways. I eat them in stews. I eat them seethed with bits of bacon or salt pork. I like them in cold salads. I especially like the red split lentils as \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/10/16/163014529/dals-simple-indian-comfort-food\">a hot, spiced \u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/10/16/163014529/dals-simple-indian-comfort-food\">dal\u003c/a>\u003cem>. \u003c/em>I recently found a recipe that transforms them into \"meatballs\" — airy, nutty, meatless ones.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet time and again, I return to that ancient blend of rice and legumes. It's not that I would sell my birthright (whatever that might be — my father's name? my mother's good teeth?). But somehow, after eating my lentils, I always feel comfortably full, as if I could want for nothing. And if I can pass along to my children the know-how expressed in a dash of cumin, a handful of grains and a crisply dealt-with onion, surely that's an inheritance worth a good deal more than a hill of beans.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"mejadra\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Mudardara, Or Mejadra\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This version comes from \u003c/em>Jerusalem\u003cem> (10 Speed Press, 2012), the smashing cookbook by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi. It has lots and lots of fried onions. It's not a deep fry so much as a shallow fry, and the onions are so very, very good. If you don't want to fry, you can certainly caramelize the onions instead (using 3 tablespoons of oil and taking unhurried pains with the texture and the color).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57521\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/lentilsmejadra.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/lentilsmejadra.jpg\" alt=\"Mudardara, Or Mejadra. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"750\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57521\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mudardara, Or Mejadra. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 cups green or brown lentils\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 medium onions (1 1/2 pounds before peeling)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 teaspoons salt, divided\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup sunflower oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons cumin seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 tablespoons coriander seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup basmati rice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 teaspoons ground allspice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the lentils in a small saucepan, cover with plenty of water, bring to a boil and cook 12 to 15 minutes, until lentils have softened but still have a little bite. Drain and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peel onions and slice thinly. Place on a large flat plate, sprinkle with the flour and 1 teaspoon salt, and mix well with your hands. Heat sunflower oil in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan placed over high heat. Make sure the oil is hot by throwing in a small piece of onion; it should sizzle vigorously. Reduce the heat to medium-high and carefully (it may spit!) add a third of the sliced onion. Fry for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally with a slotted spoon, until the onion takes on a nice golden brown color and turns crispy (adjust the temperature so the onion doesn't fry too quickly and burn). Use the spoon to transfer the onion to a colander lined with paper towels and sprinkle with a little more salt. Do the same with the other two batches of onion, adding a little extra oil if needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wipe clean the saucepan in which you fried the onion, and put in the cumin and coriander seeds. Place over medium heat and toast the seeds for a minute or two. Add the rice, olive oil, turmeric, allspice, cinnamon, sugar, remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and plenty of black pepper. Stir to coat the rice with the oil, then add the cooked lentils and the water. Bring to a boil, cover with a lid and simmer over very low heat for 15 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove from the heat, lift off the lid and quickly cover the pan with a clean tea towel. Seal tightly with the lid and set aside for 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, add half the fried onion to the rice and lentils and stir gently with a fork. Pile the mixture in a shallow serving bowl and top with the rest of the onion.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"meatballs\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Lentil Meatballs With Lemon Pesto\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>These meatballs, from Sara Forte's \u003c/em>The Sprouted Kitchen\u003cem> (10 Speed Press, 2012), are surprisingly light in texture, though robust in flavor. Don't skip the pesto, as it makes the dish — if Meyer lemons are not to be had, regular lemons will do.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_57523\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/lentilsmeatballs.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/lentilsmeatballs.jpg\" alt=\"Lentil Meatballs With Lemon Pesto. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"750\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-57523\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lentil Meatballs With Lemon Pesto. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup lentils, rinsed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large eggs, lightly beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup ricotta\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cloves garlic, minced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few pinches of fresh thyme leaves or dried thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2/3 cup breadcrumbs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lemon Pesto Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 clove garlic\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup pine nuts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grated zest and juice of 1 Meyer lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup packed fresh basil leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 to 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the lentils in a pot with the water and bring to a gentle boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, uncovered, until the lentils are tender, 15 to 20 minutes, adding water if the liquid has evaporated and the lentils are still tough. Drain the lentils and set aside to cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer the lentils to a food processor and pulse until a chunky puree forms. Transfer to a large mixing bowl and add the eggs, olive oil, ricotta, Parmesan, garlic, fennel seeds, parsley, thyme, salt and pepper. Stir to combine well. Stir in the bread crumbs and let sit at room temperature for 15 minutes to allow the flavors to blend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 400 degrees, and line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. In the meantime, make pesto. In a food processor or mini blender, blend the garlic, pine nuts, lemon zest and juice, and salt until smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the basil, 1/4 cup of olive oil and Parmesan, and pulse again until smooth, adding more olive oil as needed to smooth it out, and a bit of water as needed to get a thinner, saucelike consistency.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Check the lentil mixture by rolling a 1-inch ball together between your palms; it should hold together fairly well. If it seems too wet, add another tablespoon or two of the breadcrumbs to the mixture. Roll the lentil mixture into 1-inch balls and arrange them on the prepared baking sheet. They don't need a lot of space between. If you like a bit more of a crust, give them a thin brush of olive oil. Bake until the tops are golden brown, gently turning the balls over halfway through, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove to cool slightly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve with a drizzle of pesto sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"dal\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Red Lentil Dal\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This very traditional recipe originally came from a family friend, Rohini Nilekani. I like it best with red split lentils (masoor dal), although yellow lentils (moong dal) also are good. You can find them at many natural foods stores, as well as online and at Indian groceries. The latter are your best bet for the harder-to-find items, such as fenugreek and curry leaves.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups red split lentils (masoor dal) or yellow lentils\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon black or brown mustard seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons fenugreek seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons cumin seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium onions, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 or 2 small fresh green chili peppers (e.g. Thai bird chilies), finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>10 to 12 curry leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons tomato paste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons ground coriander\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of turmeric\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of cayenne\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon ground fennel seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cilantro sprigs to garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cooked rice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To cook the dal, place the lentils in a medium saucepan and cover with water by about 2 inches. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer, stirring often, until the dal forms a loose, tender mass (or until it achieves the texture you prefer), about 15 to 20 minutes depending on the age of the dal. Salt to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a heavy skillet, heat the oil over a medium-high flame until it shimmers. Grab a splatter screen or cover and add the mustard, fenugreek and cumin seeds to the pan (the mustard seeds will instantly begin to pop, so wield the splatter screen wisely). \u003cem>Before\u003c/em> the popping ceases, add the chopped onions, chili peppers and curry leaves, and reduce the heat to medium. Gently cook the onion mixture until the onions have softened and show a pale gold, stirring as you go and checking for salt, about 15 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the tomato paste and stir to amalgamate. If the onion-spice mixture is very dry and stiff, add water to loosen it until aromatic and slightly wet. Add the coriander, turmeric, cayenne and fennel and stir to mix. Add the cooked dal with salt to taste, and cook very gently until just married, turning off the heat before the pan dries out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Garnish with cilantro and serve with rice. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nT. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe\u003c/em>, NPR.org and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a>. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/57509/in-praise-of-the-humble-lentil","authors":["byline_bayareabites_57509"],"categories":["bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_11287","bayareabites_11086","bayareabites_11286","bayareabites_11288","bayareabites_11121"],"featImg":"bayareabites_57510","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_55701":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_55701","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"55701","score":null,"sort":[1359606950000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"understanding-the-brussels-sprout","title":"Understanding The Brussels Sprout","publishDate":1359606950,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/01/30/170570081/understanding-the-brussels-sprout\">Kitchen Window\u003c/a>, NPR Food (1/30/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55715\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/brussels-sprouts.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/brussels-sprouts.jpg\" alt=\"Brussels sprouts. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55715\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brussels sprouts. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#saute\">Brussels Leaf And Baby Spinach Saute\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#roasted\">Roasted Brussels Sprouts With Balsamic Vinegar\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#braised\">Creamy Braised Brussels Sprouts\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What are \u003cem>those\u003c/em>?\" I asked my mom, suspiciously eyeing the little cardboard tub with its cellophane cover. It held a heap of pale, miniature cabbages. \"They're Brussels sprouts,\" she said. \"They're supposed to be good for you,\" she added, sealing my doom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At dinnertime, the mystery vegetable reappeared, steaming hot and greenish-yellow but otherwise unaltered. It gave off a sulfurous stench. I recoiled, but I knew my job. I took a bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, when my plate was clean except for the Brussels sprouts — now cold and, if possible, more repulsive than before — I was made to understand that they were now part of our routine, and I would have to learn to live with them. So I developed a strategy, which was to select the smallest piece I could and swallow it whole, as if it were a particularly large multivitamin, and I a Burmese python. Then I'd chase it with a swig of milk, which would effectively bury the fumes before I inhaled again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a miracle I made it to adulthood without anyone having to perform the Heimlich maneuver. When I became a parent, I resolved that no child of mine would ever suffer the same fate. But like my mom before me, I was seduced by the Brussels sprouts' impeccable nutritional profile. The New England winter is long, just as it is in Belgium, where the sprouts were first cultivated 800 years ago (hence the name). You cannot eat kale every night, though you can try. Brussels sprouts were available, not to mention attractively priced. And so Brussels sprouts we would have.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately, being a cookbook reviewer in the era of Michelle Obama and the First Garden, I had more resources than my mom had. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"And, we are living through a Brussels sprouts renaissance. Suddenly, whole fresh stalks of sprouts, looking like green light sabers covered in pompoms, are appearing at your local supermarket. Brussels sprouts recipes — accompanied by fervent conversion narratives — festoon every greenmarket cookbook.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>To unlock the brilliance of the Brussels sprout, cooks have had to overcome a booby trap hidden within the vegetable itself. After prolonged exposure to heat, cabbage (or \u003cem>brassica\u003c/em>) family members start to stink of hydrogen sulfide, as heat-activated enzymes go to work on the sprouts' nutritious sulfur compounds, or glucosinolates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Good things come in small packages, but so do glucosinolates. Because they are young and tender, Brussels sprouts contain more than their older cabbage cousins do. So cooking them is like raiding a spell-fortified Pharaonic tomb, or opening a bank vault protected by a time bomb. Once the heat is on, you have to work quickly and retain your presence of mind. If you do, a magnificent, nutritious payload can be yours for the taking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are a number of ways to accomplish this. If you have the patience and dexterity, you can separate the little leaves so you can saute them in a flash. Or you can julienne the sprouts with a knife and then saute them. You also can set the time bomb on pause by roasting. The dry heat of roasting slows down the transfer of heat just enough to unlock the natural nutty sweetness in halves or quarters of Brussels sprouts, without triggering the odoriferous reaction. Or you can caramelize the sprouts and braise them in cream, which decadently emphasizes their sweetness while masking any sulfur effusions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the worst way to cook Brussels sprouts is to Boil Till Dead, as if they were a lobster. This was the technique employed by my mother, an otherwise excellent cook. If you simply cannot stop yourself from boiling a brassica, you should strictly observe the seven-minute rule: never exceed seven minutes when immersing anything green in boiling water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If things go well, you may hear a story like this: Somebody at my kids' lunchroom mentioned they hated Brussels sprouts. So said my 11-year-old, who has never had a boiled Brussels sprout in his life and knows nothing of my own haunted history. He paused, fork halfway to his mouth, and crinkled his brow. \"Why would anyone not like Brussels sprouts?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"saute\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Brussels Leaf And Baby Spinach Saute\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This terrific recipe adapted from \u003c/em>The Sprouted Kitchen\u003cem> (10 Speed Press, 2012) by Sara Forte, helped convince me to include it in NPR's \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/12/04/166068848/recipe-rebellion-a-year-of-contrarian-cookbooks\">Best Cookbooks of 2012 list\u003c/a>\u003cem>. You can get more leaves off the sprouts by coring the heart with the tip of a paring knife. And you don't need to discard the core. Just throw it in with everything else. It's delicious.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55714\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/brussels-sprouts-marcona.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/brussels-sprouts-marcona.jpg\" alt=\"Brussels Leaf And Baby Spinach Saute\" width=\"750\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55714\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brussels Leaf And Baby Spinach Saute. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound Brussels sprouts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon white wine or champagne vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon maple syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups baby spinach\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 generous pinches sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup Marcona almonds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Working with one Brussels sprout at a time, peel each individual leaf, starting from the outside and working toward the middle. Continue to peel until you get to the tough core where it is just too tight to pull any more leaves. Discard the core and put the leaves in a big bowl. Repeat with the remaining Brussels sprouts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large frying pan, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add all of the sprout leaves and saute for about 30 seconds. Add the vinegar and maple syrup, and toss to coat. Add the spinach to the pan and toss until it is just barely wilted. It is better just slightly underdone in this case, as it will continue to cook in its own heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sprinkle with the salt and Marcona almonds, and serve immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"roasted\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Roasted Brussels Sprouts With Balsamic Vinegar\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Covering the sprouts during part of the roasting prevents them from shrinking and drying too fast, and the balsamic vinegar complements their natural sweetness.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55713\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 666px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/brussels-sprouts-balsamic.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/brussels-sprouts-balsamic.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted Brussels Sprouts With Balsamic Vinegar\" width=\"666\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55713\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted Brussels Sprouts With Balsamic Vinegar\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound Brussels sprouts, small to medium size\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 475 degrees and line a baking sheet with foil (this helps with the cleanup).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trim the stalk end of the Brussels sprouts. Depending on their size, cut them into halves, thirds or quarters (for thirds, simply halve the sprout unequally, and then halve the larger piece again). Toss them thoroughly in a large bowl with enough olive oil to make them glisten, but not so much it pools in the bottom of the bowl. Salt to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dump the sprouts onto the baking sheet, spread or shake into a single layer, and cover tightly with another layer of aluminum foil. Roast 10 to 15 minutes (closer to 10 if they're about the size of an almond, closer to 15 if they're the size of a big olive). Remove the foil — the sprouts should be green on the outside, yellow-green in the middle and just starting to turn tender.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drizzle with the balsamic vinegar. Return to the oven and roast for 10 to 20 more minutes, checking in on them once or twice to stir and look for browning. When you see plenty of spots of golden-brown but none of the sprouts are completely brown, that's the time to pull them out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grind plenty of fresh pepper over the sprouts. Serve immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"braised\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Creamy Braised Brussels Sprouts\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe (adapted from \u003c/em>All About Braising\u003cem> by Molly Stevens, Norton, 2004), while perhaps not the most photogenic (it yields a creamy beige-and-brown mass that has to be tasted to be believed), has made converts of many. I asked Stevens why she thought it was that the sprouts remained sweet, nutty and un-cabbagey despite the longer braise, and she posited a number of factors: the fat in the cream, the halving (or quartering), the initial browning. Whichever it is, they're irresistible.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55716\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 332px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/brusselssprouts-braised.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/brusselssprouts-braised.jpg\" alt=\"Creamy Braised Brussels Sprouts. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"332\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55716\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Creamy Braised Brussels Sprouts. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings as a side dish\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound Brussels sprouts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a paring knife, trim the base of each sprout. Cut the sprout in half lengthwise and remove any loose outer leaves. You can cut the halves into halves again if you want or just leave them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt the butter in a large skillet that you can later cover. Brown the Brussels sprouts over medium-high heat for about 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the cream, some salt and pepper and stir.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reduce heat until mixture is slowly simmering. You want some bubbles in the cream, but don't let it boil too rapidly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover the pot and braise for about 30 minutes, or until sprouts are very tender. The cream should now be a pale brown color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the cover, add the lemon juice and stir. Cook for another 2 to 3 minutes and serve. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nT. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe\u003c/em>, NPR.org and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a>. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"This humble cabbage relative is undergoing a renaissance. Cookbooks are full of conversion stories and recipes. Food writer T. Susan Chang shares hers: The delectable versions she now enjoys bear no resemblance to the boiled, greenish-yellow sprouts of her youth.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1359606950,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":54,"wordCount":1592},"headData":{"title":"Understanding The Brussels Sprout | KQED","description":"This humble cabbage relative is undergoing a renaissance. Cookbooks are full of conversion stories and recipes. Food writer T. Susan Chang shares hers: The delectable versions she now enjoys bear no resemblance to the boiled, greenish-yellow sprouts of her youth.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Understanding The Brussels Sprout","datePublished":"2013-01-31T04:35:50.000Z","dateModified":"2013-01-31T04:35:50.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"55701 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=55701","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/01/30/understanding-the-brussels-sprout/","disqusTitle":"Understanding The Brussels Sprout","nprByline":"T. Susan Chang","nprStoryId":"170570081","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=170570081&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/2013/01/30/170570081/understanding-the-brussels-sprout?ft=3&f=170570081","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 30 Jan 2013 01:47:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 30 Jan 2013 01:47:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 30 Jan 2013 01:47:33 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/55701/understanding-the-brussels-sprout","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/01/30/170570081/understanding-the-brussels-sprout\">Kitchen Window\u003c/a>, NPR Food (1/30/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55715\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/brussels-sprouts.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/brussels-sprouts.jpg\" alt=\"Brussels sprouts. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55715\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brussels sprouts. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#saute\">Brussels Leaf And Baby Spinach Saute\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#roasted\">Roasted Brussels Sprouts With Balsamic Vinegar\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#braised\">Creamy Braised Brussels Sprouts\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What are \u003cem>those\u003c/em>?\" I asked my mom, suspiciously eyeing the little cardboard tub with its cellophane cover. It held a heap of pale, miniature cabbages. \"They're Brussels sprouts,\" she said. \"They're supposed to be good for you,\" she added, sealing my doom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At dinnertime, the mystery vegetable reappeared, steaming hot and greenish-yellow but otherwise unaltered. It gave off a sulfurous stench. I recoiled, but I knew my job. I took a bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, when my plate was clean except for the Brussels sprouts — now cold and, if possible, more repulsive than before — I was made to understand that they were now part of our routine, and I would have to learn to live with them. So I developed a strategy, which was to select the smallest piece I could and swallow it whole, as if it were a particularly large multivitamin, and I a Burmese python. Then I'd chase it with a swig of milk, which would effectively bury the fumes before I inhaled again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's a miracle I made it to adulthood without anyone having to perform the Heimlich maneuver. When I became a parent, I resolved that no child of mine would ever suffer the same fate. But like my mom before me, I was seduced by the Brussels sprouts' impeccable nutritional profile. The New England winter is long, just as it is in Belgium, where the sprouts were first cultivated 800 years ago (hence the name). You cannot eat kale every night, though you can try. Brussels sprouts were available, not to mention attractively priced. And so Brussels sprouts we would have.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately, being a cookbook reviewer in the era of Michelle Obama and the First Garden, I had more resources than my mom had. \u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>\"And, we are living through a Brussels sprouts renaissance. Suddenly, whole fresh stalks of sprouts, looking like green light sabers covered in pompoms, are appearing at your local supermarket. Brussels sprouts recipes — accompanied by fervent conversion narratives — festoon every greenmarket cookbook.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>To unlock the brilliance of the Brussels sprout, cooks have had to overcome a booby trap hidden within the vegetable itself. After prolonged exposure to heat, cabbage (or \u003cem>brassica\u003c/em>) family members start to stink of hydrogen sulfide, as heat-activated enzymes go to work on the sprouts' nutritious sulfur compounds, or glucosinolates.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Good things come in small packages, but so do glucosinolates. Because they are young and tender, Brussels sprouts contain more than their older cabbage cousins do. So cooking them is like raiding a spell-fortified Pharaonic tomb, or opening a bank vault protected by a time bomb. Once the heat is on, you have to work quickly and retain your presence of mind. If you do, a magnificent, nutritious payload can be yours for the taking.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are a number of ways to accomplish this. If you have the patience and dexterity, you can separate the little leaves so you can saute them in a flash. Or you can julienne the sprouts with a knife and then saute them. You also can set the time bomb on pause by roasting. The dry heat of roasting slows down the transfer of heat just enough to unlock the natural nutty sweetness in halves or quarters of Brussels sprouts, without triggering the odoriferous reaction. Or you can caramelize the sprouts and braise them in cream, which decadently emphasizes their sweetness while masking any sulfur effusions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Perhaps the worst way to cook Brussels sprouts is to Boil Till Dead, as if they were a lobster. This was the technique employed by my mother, an otherwise excellent cook. If you simply cannot stop yourself from boiling a brassica, you should strictly observe the seven-minute rule: never exceed seven minutes when immersing anything green in boiling water.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If things go well, you may hear a story like this: Somebody at my kids' lunchroom mentioned they hated Brussels sprouts. So said my 11-year-old, who has never had a boiled Brussels sprout in his life and knows nothing of my own haunted history. He paused, fork halfway to his mouth, and crinkled his brow. \"Why would anyone not like Brussels sprouts?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"saute\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Brussels Leaf And Baby Spinach Saute\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This terrific recipe adapted from \u003c/em>The Sprouted Kitchen\u003cem> (10 Speed Press, 2012) by Sara Forte, helped convince me to include it in NPR's \u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2012/12/04/166068848/recipe-rebellion-a-year-of-contrarian-cookbooks\">Best Cookbooks of 2012 list\u003c/a>\u003cem>. You can get more leaves off the sprouts by coring the heart with the tip of a paring knife. And you don't need to discard the core. Just throw it in with everything else. It's delicious.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55714\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 750px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/brussels-sprouts-marcona.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/brussels-sprouts-marcona.jpg\" alt=\"Brussels Leaf And Baby Spinach Saute\" width=\"750\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55714\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brussels Leaf And Baby Spinach Saute. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound Brussels sprouts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon white wine or champagne vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon maple syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups baby spinach\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 generous pinches sea salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup Marcona almonds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Working with one Brussels sprout at a time, peel each individual leaf, starting from the outside and working toward the middle. Continue to peel until you get to the tough core where it is just too tight to pull any more leaves. Discard the core and put the leaves in a big bowl. Repeat with the remaining Brussels sprouts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large frying pan, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add all of the sprout leaves and saute for about 30 seconds. Add the vinegar and maple syrup, and toss to coat. Add the spinach to the pan and toss until it is just barely wilted. It is better just slightly underdone in this case, as it will continue to cook in its own heat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sprinkle with the salt and Marcona almonds, and serve immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"roasted\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Roasted Brussels Sprouts With Balsamic Vinegar\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Covering the sprouts during part of the roasting prevents them from shrinking and drying too fast, and the balsamic vinegar complements their natural sweetness.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55713\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 666px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/brussels-sprouts-balsamic.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/brussels-sprouts-balsamic.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted Brussels Sprouts With Balsamic Vinegar\" width=\"666\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55713\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted Brussels Sprouts With Balsamic Vinegar\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound Brussels sprouts, small to medium size\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 475 degrees and line a baking sheet with foil (this helps with the cleanup).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Trim the stalk end of the Brussels sprouts. Depending on their size, cut them into halves, thirds or quarters (for thirds, simply halve the sprout unequally, and then halve the larger piece again). Toss them thoroughly in a large bowl with enough olive oil to make them glisten, but not so much it pools in the bottom of the bowl. Salt to taste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dump the sprouts onto the baking sheet, spread or shake into a single layer, and cover tightly with another layer of aluminum foil. Roast 10 to 15 minutes (closer to 10 if they're about the size of an almond, closer to 15 if they're the size of a big olive). Remove the foil — the sprouts should be green on the outside, yellow-green in the middle and just starting to turn tender.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drizzle with the balsamic vinegar. Return to the oven and roast for 10 to 20 more minutes, checking in on them once or twice to stir and look for browning. When you see plenty of spots of golden-brown but none of the sprouts are completely brown, that's the time to pull them out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grind plenty of fresh pepper over the sprouts. Serve immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"braised\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Creamy Braised Brussels Sprouts\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe (adapted from \u003c/em>All About Braising\u003cem> by Molly Stevens, Norton, 2004), while perhaps not the most photogenic (it yields a creamy beige-and-brown mass that has to be tasted to be believed), has made converts of many. I asked Stevens why she thought it was that the sprouts remained sweet, nutty and un-cabbagey despite the longer braise, and she posited a number of factors: the fat in the cream, the halving (or quartering), the initial browning. Whichever it is, they're irresistible.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55716\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 332px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/brusselssprouts-braised.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/brusselssprouts-braised.jpg\" alt=\"Creamy Braised Brussels Sprouts. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\" width=\"332\" height=\"500\" class=\"size-full wp-image-55716\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Creamy Braised Brussels Sprouts. Photo: T. Susan Chang for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings as a side dish\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound Brussels sprouts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a paring knife, trim the base of each sprout. Cut the sprout in half lengthwise and remove any loose outer leaves. You can cut the halves into halves again if you want or just leave them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt the butter in a large skillet that you can later cover. Brown the Brussels sprouts over medium-high heat for about 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the cream, some salt and pepper and stir.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reduce heat until mixture is slowly simmering. You want some bubbles in the cream, but don't let it boil too rapidly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover the pot and braise for about 30 minutes, or until sprouts are very tender. The cream should now be a pale brown color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the cover, add the lemon juice and stir. Cook for another 2 to 3 minutes and serve. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nT. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe\u003c/em>, NPR.org and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a>. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/55701/understanding-the-brussels-sprout","authors":["byline_bayareabites_55701"],"categories":["bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_2898","bayareabites_11086","bayareabites_11121"],"featImg":"bayareabites_55702","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. 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Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. 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And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. 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