The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen: Contemporary Recipes for the Holidays and Every Day
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Seasonal Jewish Kitchen by Amelia Saltsman","publishDate":1442208393,"status":"inherit","parent":100443,"modified":1442208682,"caption":"The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen by Amelia Saltsman","credit":" Staci Valentine","description":"The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen by Amelia Saltsman","imgSizes":{"thumbnail":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/Jewish-Kitchen-400x497.jpg","width":400,"height":497,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"post-thumbnail":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/Jewish-Kitchen-672x372.jpg","width":672,"height":372,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"twentyfourteen-full-width":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/Jewish-Kitchen-700x576.jpg","width":700,"height":576,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"guest-author-32":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/Jewish-Kitchen-32x32.jpg","width":32,"height":32,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"guest-author-64":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/Jewish-Kitchen-64x64.jpg","width":64,"height":64,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"guest-author-96":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/Jewish-Kitchen-96x96.jpg","width":96,"height":96,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"guest-author-128":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/Jewish-Kitchen-128x128.jpg","width":128,"height":128,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"cat_post_thumb_sizecategory-posts-2":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/Jewish-Kitchen-150x150.jpg","width":150,"height":150,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"detail":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/Jewish-Kitchen-75x75.jpg","width":75,"height":75,"mimeType":"image/jpeg"},"kqedFullSize":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/Jewish-Kitchen.jpg","width":700,"height":870}},"fetchFailed":false,"isLoading":false}},"audioPlayerReducer":{"postId":"stream_live"},"authorsReducer":{"stephanie":{"type":"authors","id":"5010","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5010","found":true},"name":"Stephanie 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Lucianovic is a writer, editor, and lapsed cheesemonger in the San Francisco Bay Area. A culinary school grad with an English lit degree, she has written for CNN.com, MSNBC.com, Popular Science, The New York Times, The Washington Post, and The Boston Globe. Additionally, she has been writing for KQED's Bay Area Bites since its inception and is the website editor for KQED's Emmy-award winning show \"Check, Please! Bay Area.\"\r\n\r\nStephanie was an original recapper at Television Without Pity and worked on a line of cookbooks for William-Sonoma as well as in the back kitchen of a Jacques Pépin cooking show. 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I was raised by an Italian-American mother who, in the 1970s, grew her own basil (because she couldn’t find any in the local grocery stores), zucchini (for those delicious flowers), and tomatoes (because the ones in the store tasted like “a potato”). My mom taught us to love all kinds of food and revere high-quality ingredients. I am now trying to follow in my mother’s footsteps and am on a mission to help my daughters become adventurous eaters who have a healthy respect for seasonal food raised locally. My daughters and I grow vegetables and go to the farmers’ market. We also love to shop at Piedmont Grocery and Trader Joe’s. When I’m not hanging out with my daughters or cooking, I like to contribute to cookbooks (including Williams-Sonoma’s Food Made Fast and Foods of the World series), work as an editor, and write about food for \u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites\u003c/strong> and \u003cstrong>Denise's Kitchen\u003c/strong>. My food inspirations are M.F.K Fisher, Julia Child, and Alice Waters — three fabulous women who encompass everything I love about food.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dc444b11959eca5e5364cfc2e4358efb?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Denise Santoro Lincoln | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dc444b11959eca5e5364cfc2e4358efb?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dc444b11959eca5e5364cfc2e4358efb?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/denise-lincoln"},"amy-sherman":{"type":"authors","id":"5020","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5020","found":true},"name":"Amy Sherman","firstName":"Amy","lastName":"Sherman","slug":"amy-sherman","email":"cookingwithamyblog@yahoo.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Amy Sherman began blogging in 2003, because all her\r\nfriends and family were constantly asking her where\r\nand what to eat. Three months after it launched,\r\nForbes chose her blog, \u003cstrong>Cooking with Amy\u003c/strong>, as one of the\r\ntop five best food blogs, praising her writing as\r\n“smart, cozy and witty”. Since then her blog has been\r\nfeatured and recipes reprinted in many newspapers and\r\nmagazines in the U.S. and the world.\r\n\r\nIn addition to regularly updating her blog, Amy is a\r\nguest contributor to the Epicurious.com blog, and\r\nContributing Editor of Glam Dish. She also writes\r\nrestaurant reviews for SF Station.\r\n\r\nHer focus on \u003cstrong>Bay Area Bites\u003c/strong> is primarily cookbook\r\nreviews along with some interviews and current events.\r\n\r\nAmy is a recipe developer and freelance food writer.\r\nShe is author of \u003cstrong>WinePassport: Portugal\u003c/strong> and wrote the new introduction to the classic cookbook, \u003cstrong>Jane Grigson’s Vegetable Book\u003c/strong>, published by the University of Nebraska Press. She recently completed 45 recipes for a Williams-Sonoma cookbook and wrote her first piece for VIA magazine.\r\n\r\nShe is currently serving on the board of the San Francisco Professional Food Society and is a member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Amy lives in San Francisco with her husband, tech journalist Lee Sherman.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a2c9e78855b89740545e8a000d82e38c?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Amy Sherman | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a2c9e78855b89740545e8a000d82e38c?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/a2c9e78855b89740545e8a000d82e38c?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/amy-sherman"},"shuna-lydon":{"type":"authors","id":"5021","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5021","found":true},"name":"Shuna Fish Lydon","firstName":"Shuna","lastName":"Lydon","slug":"shuna-lydon","email":"shunafish.l@gmail.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Shuna fish Lydon was whisked and baked in San Francisco but served and eaten in New York City. She's had a 16 year tumultuous love affair with professional cooking and has BFA in photography from CCAC. \r\n\r\nWorking with and for some of the best chefs in NYC and California, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chefdb.com/nm/6272/\">Shuna's resume reads like the who's who of cooking today.\u003c/a> She identifies as a fruit-inspired pastry chef and calls the many local farmers' markets her muse.\r\n\r\nCurrently \"at large,\" Shuna spends her time teaching baking and knife skills classes, consulting at local restaurants and writing for a number of outlets about deliciousness.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/1cd64875ccb5cbe84c2d67d266113439?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Shuna Fish Lydon | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/1cd64875ccb5cbe84c2d67d266113439?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/1cd64875ccb5cbe84c2d67d266113439?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/shuna-lydon"},"kimwesterman":{"type":"authors","id":"5575","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5575","found":true},"name":"Kim Westerman","firstName":"Kim","lastName":"Westerman","slug":"kimwesterman","email":"kim.westerman@gmail.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Kim Westerman has been writing about food and wine for most of her adult life. Originally from North Carolina, she moved to Berkeley in 2006 to pursue the California dream, which, it turns out, is all it’s cracked up to be. She’s a farmers' market junkie, a lover of all things tomato, and Champagne-obsessed. She loves to cook with her kids, eight and three, and she makes frequent pilgrimages to International Boulevard in search of her next favorite Mexican dish. She spends an inordinate amount of time thinking about food and wine pairing, often starting with the wine and working backwards when planning menus. She is a Level I Sommelier and a Licensed Q-Grader. Her work has appeared in KQED's Bay Area Bites, Forbes.com, the New York Times, the San Francisco Chronicle, Tasting Table, Fodor’s Travel Guides, and lots of other publications. You can follow Kim on Twitter and Instagram @throughtraveler.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2eb7f890ab19ead33f77fd8554ac4c39?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Kim Westerman | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2eb7f890ab19ead33f77fd8554ac4c39?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/2eb7f890ab19ead33f77fd8554ac4c39?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/kimwesterman"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_100443":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_100443","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"100443","score":null,"sort":[1442259766000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-seasonal-jewish-kitchen-contemporary-recipes-for-the-holidays-and-every-day","title":"The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen: Contemporary Recipes for the Holidays and Every Day","publishDate":1442259766,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Amelia Saltsman grew up in Los Angeles in a Japanese neighborhood with her Romanian mother and Iraqi father, Israelis who met while serving in the army. Her first book, \u003cem>The Santa Monica Farmers’ Market Cookbook\u003c/em>, champions all thing local, fresh, and simple, and lays out her general approach to cooking as opportunistic: first, what do you have? Then, how can you make it shine with the least amount of intervention? Her most recent book, out in time for Rosh Hashanah, is \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Seasonal-Jewish-Kitchen-Tradition/dp/145491436X\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen: A Fresh Take on Tradition\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Sterling Epicure, 2015), in which she offers a seasonal, and global, approach to traditional Jewish cooking, lightening it for contemporary eating styles and ingredients and making it accessible to all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One revelation here is that Jewish cooking isn’t relegated to the flavors of Eastern Europe, as many a cookbook might lead one to believe. This book is full of recipes from North Africa, the Middle East, and the whole of the Mediterranean, and utilizes ingredients widely found throughout the U.S., focusing on freshness and quality. I spoke with Amelia about the new book last week, and here’s what she had to say.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_100450\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/Amelia-Saltsman_vertical_300dpi_727KB_Photo-by-Patricia-Williams-2015-400x483.jpg\" alt=\"Cookbook author Amelia Saltsman\" width=\"400\" height=\"483\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-100450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/Amelia-Saltsman_vertical_300dpi_727KB_Photo-by-Patricia-Williams-2015-400x483.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/Amelia-Saltsman_vertical_300dpi_727KB_Photo-by-Patricia-Williams-2015.jpg 662w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cookbook author Amelia Saltsman \u003ccite>(Patricia Williams)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What inspired your seasonal approach to the book?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Three things: A desire to reconnect what we often overlook today; the innate seasonality of Jewish food, from the late-summer/early-fall pomegranates, apples, and quince of Rosh Hashanah and the etrog (citron fruit) of Sukkot, to the spring lamb and herbs of Passover. That Jewish food can be reframed through the lighter, brighter lens of how we eat today while still being true to its traditional roots. (Take a look at Golden Borscht with Buttermilk and Ginger, page 218.) And the harmonious way the lunar Jewish calendar syncs with the natural cycles of the year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What do you think will be the most surprising discoveries for people who are accustomed to traditional Jewish recipes?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The great diversity of Jewish cuisine. The Jewish Diaspora, or migration, is thousands of years old, and it’s global. When you say “traditional Jewish recipes,” I immediately assume you mean eastern European food. But Jewish food is actually a patchwork of regional cuisines that includes the deli foods of Eastern Europe \u003cem>and\u003c/em> the bold flavors of North Africa, the Middle East, the Mediterranean, and more. Historically, people have always cooked “local,” using the ingredients and techniques available to them and adapting them culturally, as needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Your mother is Romanian and your father, Iraqi. Did growing up with them result in any interesting fusion cooking?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You have no idea! Imagine 1950s SoCal, living isolated from extended family and in a predominantly Japanese neighborhood, and being the child of students who worked to make ends meet at the L.A.-iconic VandeKamp Bakery. I was a food-curious child exposed to an eclectic array of flavors: sautéed calves’ brains; my father’s recreation of an Iraqi breakfast pastry, kahi (reimagined as Cheese and Honey Filo Pie in the book, page 237); Israeli salad; L.A. citrus; canned spinach; American burgers, apple pie, and layer cake; and for me (not my parents), an immediate love affair with the Japanese foods my friends’ parents cooked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did your childhood in Los Angeles influence the way you cook today?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because my little family lived for the most part outside a \u003cem>bubbe\u003c/em>-influenced food world, there were no food rules. We took a Catholic approach to what our melting-pot lives had to offer. And because I am the child of Israeli parents and have always lived in southern California’s produce-rich Mediterranean climate, fresh, ripe ingredients have always been important…. aside from that canned spinach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are the five or so essential ingredients to have on hand for last-minute cooking in this style? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Honestly, you could manage with just two—great olive oil and salt. Beyond that, I’d add an acid—lemon, good vinegar, or sumac, the tart seasoning ground from the bright purple berries from the sumac bush, popular in Iranian and Middle Eastern cuisines; and some heat, usually from a red pepper—Aleppo, Maras, espelette, or half-sharp paprika—that adds fruity and earthy complexities beyond a Scoville rating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>I love shakshuka, and I've made my way through many different versions. Can you describe your approach to this classic dish?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a trip to Israel last year, I learned the secret of great shakshuka from my cousin, Pazit Gabai. Begin with her recipe for Matboucha (on page 32 of the book), a long-cooked, but simple, spicy tomato sauce, which she learned to make from her Moroccan sisters-in-law. Such “\u003cem>salades cuites\u003c/em>,” or cooked salads, are traditional to North African cuisines, most of which claim some version of shakshuka as their own. Her recipe is basically tomatoes, spicy peppers (jalapeños, or some such), and garlic. When I make a big batch of matboucha from rich, late-season meaty tomatoes, such as the Costoluto Genovese variety, the resulting thick sauce is transcendent. I use some of it to poach eggs for shakshua, and use the rest as a condiment or to simmer black- or pink-eyed shell beans for a hearty rice or grain bowl-meal. (Winter matboucha made from good canned tomatoes isn’t bad, either!)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Which recipes in the book would you recommend to novice cooks or those new to this style of cooking?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_100490\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ROASTED-CARROT-AND-SWEET-POTATO-TZIMMES-1920-400x599.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted Carrot and Sweet Potato Tzimmes\" width=\"400\" height=\"599\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-100490\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ROASTED-CARROT-AND-SWEET-POTATO-TZIMMES-1920-400x599.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ROASTED-CARROT-AND-SWEET-POTATO-TZIMMES-1920-800x1199.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ROASTED-CARROT-AND-SWEET-POTATO-TZIMMES-1920-1440x2158.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ROASTED-CARROT-AND-SWEET-POTATO-TZIMMES-1920-1180x1768.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ROASTED-CARROT-AND-SWEET-POTATO-TZIMMES-1920-960x1439.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted Carrot and Sweet Potato Tzimmes \u003ccite>( Staci Valentine)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are plenty to choose from! Because my cooking is mainly about showcasing the natural lusciousness of great seasonal ingredients, my recipes tend to be very simple, often as basic as shoving something into a hot oven to roast and caramelize or pulling together interesting assemblages of contrasting flavors, colors, and textures. Start with the tastiest ingredients you can find, and dishes like Roasted Carrot and Sweet Potato Tzimmes or Autumn Slaw with Beets, Carrots, and Kohlrabi will sing. And a \u003cem>salade composée\u003c/em> of pickled herring, boiled potatoes and eggs becomes a contemporary work of art. I’d also refer readers to the Roasted Vegetable Primer in my first book, \u003cem>The Santa Monica Farmers’ Market Cookbook\u003c/em>, which shows beginners how to get incredibly diverse results from one simple technique.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your current favorite restaurants in Los Angeles? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I especially enjoy the way Suzanne Goin of Lucques, AOC, and Tavern restaurants has redefined Cal-Med to include \u003cem>eastern\u003c/em> Mediterranean flavors. And I love how innovative chef Jeremy Fox at Rustic Canyon in Santa Monica uses \u003cem>gribenes\u003c/em> (a Yiddish word for fried chicken or goose skin) within decidedly non-Jewish dishes. Perfect examples of how a market-driven, seasonal approach meshes seamlessly with traditional elements.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Who/what are the chief inspirations for your work? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Without a doubt, the passionate farmers who grow for flavor first. Their perseverance and dedication to quality and to being good stewards of the land have transformed the way I think about food. I try to show my respect and gratitude by simplifying my cooking to better show off their efforts!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And my two grandmothers, Mina and Rachel, whose cooking I first tasted when I was ten-years-old on our first trip to Israel and forever changed my life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>S\u003cem>altsman will be at \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/events.html\" target=\"_blank\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> in San Francisco on Sunday, September 27 from 3-5pm.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch2>RECIPES\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_100491\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/SHAKSHUKA-1920-800x1199.jpg\" alt=\"Shakshuka from The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen\" width=\"800\" height=\"1199\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-100491\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/SHAKSHUKA-1920-800x1199.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/SHAKSHUKA-1920-400x599.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/SHAKSHUKA-1920-1440x2158.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/SHAKSHUKA-1920-1180x1768.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/SHAKSHUKA-1920-960x1439.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shakshuka from The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen \u003ccite>( Staci Valentine)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Shakshuka\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>(makes six servings)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>2 cups Matboucha (see recipe below)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 Tbsps extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 eggs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Kosher or sea salt (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Generous handful of chopped fresh Italian parsley\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Labneh, homemade or store-bought\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Thickly sliced country bread, toasted, or pita bread\u003cbr>\nIn a 12-inch skillet, thin the Matboucha with water, to the consistency of thick spaghetti sauce. Add the olive oil and set over medium heat. When the sauce is bubbling, reduce the heat to medium-low.\n\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Using the back of a large spoon, make an indentation in the sauce at the 12 o’clock position. Crack an egg into the depression. Repeat with remaining eggs, spacing them evenly in the pan. Cook until the eggs are set to your liking, about 7 minutes for over-easy. Cover the pan to hasten cooking, especially if you like your eggs more well-done.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Season the eggs with salt, if desired, and shower the parsley over all. Serve directly from the pan into shallow individual bowls, accompanied by labneh and bread or pita.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003ch3>Matboucha\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>(makes about 2 ½ cups)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>2 ½ pounds meaty tomatoes, such as Roma or Costoluto Genovese, or 1 can (28 oz.) crushed tomatoes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 to 4 chiles, such as jalapeño or habañero or a mix, 2 to 4 oz.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>8 cloves garlic, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 Tbsp sweet paprika\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 ½ tsps hot paprika, or to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ cup grapeseed or other mild oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Kosher or sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>To peel the tomatoes, either use a swivel-blade vegetable peeler or immerse them in boiling water and slip off the skins. If you like, cut the tomatoes in half and squeeze them to remove the seeds. Skip this step if the seeds don’t bother you. Chop the tomatoes into ½- to 1-inch pieces. You should have 3 ¼ to 3 ½ cups altogether. Place them in a wide pit or a deep sauté pan.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mince the chiles and add them to the pan along with some or all of their seeds for added heat. Add the garlic, stir in the paprika, and pour the olive oil over all. Start cooking the mixture over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Once the mixture comes to a boil, reduce the heat as necessary to keep it from bubbling without burning and cook until very thick and glossy, about 1 hour. Use a splatter screen to keep your stove clean, if you like.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove from the heat and season to taste with salt and sugar, adding about 1 teaspoon of each. Let cool and transfer to 1 or 2 tightly capped jars. The condiment will keep in the refrigerator for 1 week and in the freezer for up to two months.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"\u003cem>The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen\u003c/em> offers a seasonal, and global, approach to traditional Jewish cooking, lightening it for contemporary eating styles and ingredients and making it accessible to all. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1442348926,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":1728},"headData":{"title":"The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen: Contemporary Recipes for the Holidays and Every Day | KQED","description":"The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen offers a seasonal, and global, approach to traditional Jewish cooking, lightening it for contemporary eating styles and ingredients and making it accessible to all. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"100443 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=100443","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/09/14/the-seasonal-jewish-kitchen-contemporary-recipes-for-the-holidays-and-every-day/","disqusTitle":"The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen: Contemporary Recipes for the Holidays and Every Day","path":"/bayareabites/100443/the-seasonal-jewish-kitchen-contemporary-recipes-for-the-holidays-and-every-day","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Amelia Saltsman grew up in Los Angeles in a Japanese neighborhood with her Romanian mother and Iraqi father, Israelis who met while serving in the army. Her first book, \u003cem>The Santa Monica Farmers’ Market Cookbook\u003c/em>, champions all thing local, fresh, and simple, and lays out her general approach to cooking as opportunistic: first, what do you have? Then, how can you make it shine with the least amount of intervention? Her most recent book, out in time for Rosh Hashanah, is \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/The-Seasonal-Jewish-Kitchen-Tradition/dp/145491436X\" target=\"_blank\">\u003cem>The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen: A Fresh Take on Tradition\u003c/em>\u003c/a> (Sterling Epicure, 2015), in which she offers a seasonal, and global, approach to traditional Jewish cooking, lightening it for contemporary eating styles and ingredients and making it accessible to all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One revelation here is that Jewish cooking isn’t relegated to the flavors of Eastern Europe, as many a cookbook might lead one to believe. This book is full of recipes from North Africa, the Middle East, and the whole of the Mediterranean, and utilizes ingredients widely found throughout the U.S., focusing on freshness and quality. I spoke with Amelia about the new book last week, and here’s what she had to say.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_100450\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/Amelia-Saltsman_vertical_300dpi_727KB_Photo-by-Patricia-Williams-2015-400x483.jpg\" alt=\"Cookbook author Amelia Saltsman\" width=\"400\" height=\"483\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-100450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/Amelia-Saltsman_vertical_300dpi_727KB_Photo-by-Patricia-Williams-2015-400x483.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/Amelia-Saltsman_vertical_300dpi_727KB_Photo-by-Patricia-Williams-2015.jpg 662w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cookbook author Amelia Saltsman \u003ccite>(Patricia Williams)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What inspired your seasonal approach to the book?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Three things: A desire to reconnect what we often overlook today; the innate seasonality of Jewish food, from the late-summer/early-fall pomegranates, apples, and quince of Rosh Hashanah and the etrog (citron fruit) of Sukkot, to the spring lamb and herbs of Passover. That Jewish food can be reframed through the lighter, brighter lens of how we eat today while still being true to its traditional roots. (Take a look at Golden Borscht with Buttermilk and Ginger, page 218.) And the harmonious way the lunar Jewish calendar syncs with the natural cycles of the year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What do you think will be the most surprising discoveries for people who are accustomed to traditional Jewish recipes?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The great diversity of Jewish cuisine. The Jewish Diaspora, or migration, is thousands of years old, and it’s global. When you say “traditional Jewish recipes,” I immediately assume you mean eastern European food. But Jewish food is actually a patchwork of regional cuisines that includes the deli foods of Eastern Europe \u003cem>and\u003c/em> the bold flavors of North Africa, the Middle East, the Mediterranean, and more. Historically, people have always cooked “local,” using the ingredients and techniques available to them and adapting them culturally, as needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Your mother is Romanian and your father, Iraqi. Did growing up with them result in any interesting fusion cooking?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You have no idea! Imagine 1950s SoCal, living isolated from extended family and in a predominantly Japanese neighborhood, and being the child of students who worked to make ends meet at the L.A.-iconic VandeKamp Bakery. I was a food-curious child exposed to an eclectic array of flavors: sautéed calves’ brains; my father’s recreation of an Iraqi breakfast pastry, kahi (reimagined as Cheese and Honey Filo Pie in the book, page 237); Israeli salad; L.A. citrus; canned spinach; American burgers, apple pie, and layer cake; and for me (not my parents), an immediate love affair with the Japanese foods my friends’ parents cooked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>How did your childhood in Los Angeles influence the way you cook today?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because my little family lived for the most part outside a \u003cem>bubbe\u003c/em>-influenced food world, there were no food rules. We took a Catholic approach to what our melting-pot lives had to offer. And because I am the child of Israeli parents and have always lived in southern California’s produce-rich Mediterranean climate, fresh, ripe ingredients have always been important…. aside from that canned spinach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are the five or so essential ingredients to have on hand for last-minute cooking in this style? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Honestly, you could manage with just two—great olive oil and salt. Beyond that, I’d add an acid—lemon, good vinegar, or sumac, the tart seasoning ground from the bright purple berries from the sumac bush, popular in Iranian and Middle Eastern cuisines; and some heat, usually from a red pepper—Aleppo, Maras, espelette, or half-sharp paprika—that adds fruity and earthy complexities beyond a Scoville rating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>I love shakshuka, and I've made my way through many different versions. Can you describe your approach to this classic dish?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a trip to Israel last year, I learned the secret of great shakshuka from my cousin, Pazit Gabai. Begin with her recipe for Matboucha (on page 32 of the book), a long-cooked, but simple, spicy tomato sauce, which she learned to make from her Moroccan sisters-in-law. Such “\u003cem>salades cuites\u003c/em>,” or cooked salads, are traditional to North African cuisines, most of which claim some version of shakshuka as their own. Her recipe is basically tomatoes, spicy peppers (jalapeños, or some such), and garlic. When I make a big batch of matboucha from rich, late-season meaty tomatoes, such as the Costoluto Genovese variety, the resulting thick sauce is transcendent. I use some of it to poach eggs for shakshua, and use the rest as a condiment or to simmer black- or pink-eyed shell beans for a hearty rice or grain bowl-meal. (Winter matboucha made from good canned tomatoes isn’t bad, either!)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Which recipes in the book would you recommend to novice cooks or those new to this style of cooking?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_100490\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ROASTED-CARROT-AND-SWEET-POTATO-TZIMMES-1920-400x599.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted Carrot and Sweet Potato Tzimmes\" width=\"400\" height=\"599\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-100490\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ROASTED-CARROT-AND-SWEET-POTATO-TZIMMES-1920-400x599.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ROASTED-CARROT-AND-SWEET-POTATO-TZIMMES-1920-800x1199.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ROASTED-CARROT-AND-SWEET-POTATO-TZIMMES-1920-1440x2158.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ROASTED-CARROT-AND-SWEET-POTATO-TZIMMES-1920-1180x1768.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/ROASTED-CARROT-AND-SWEET-POTATO-TZIMMES-1920-960x1439.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Roasted Carrot and Sweet Potato Tzimmes \u003ccite>( Staci Valentine)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are plenty to choose from! Because my cooking is mainly about showcasing the natural lusciousness of great seasonal ingredients, my recipes tend to be very simple, often as basic as shoving something into a hot oven to roast and caramelize or pulling together interesting assemblages of contrasting flavors, colors, and textures. Start with the tastiest ingredients you can find, and dishes like Roasted Carrot and Sweet Potato Tzimmes or Autumn Slaw with Beets, Carrots, and Kohlrabi will sing. And a \u003cem>salade composée\u003c/em> of pickled herring, boiled potatoes and eggs becomes a contemporary work of art. I’d also refer readers to the Roasted Vegetable Primer in my first book, \u003cem>The Santa Monica Farmers’ Market Cookbook\u003c/em>, which shows beginners how to get incredibly diverse results from one simple technique.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What are your current favorite restaurants in Los Angeles? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I especially enjoy the way Suzanne Goin of Lucques, AOC, and Tavern restaurants has redefined Cal-Med to include \u003cem>eastern\u003c/em> Mediterranean flavors. And I love how innovative chef Jeremy Fox at Rustic Canyon in Santa Monica uses \u003cem>gribenes\u003c/em> (a Yiddish word for fried chicken or goose skin) within decidedly non-Jewish dishes. Perfect examples of how a market-driven, seasonal approach meshes seamlessly with traditional elements.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Who/what are the chief inspirations for your work? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Without a doubt, the passionate farmers who grow for flavor first. Their perseverance and dedication to quality and to being good stewards of the land have transformed the way I think about food. I try to show my respect and gratitude by simplifying my cooking to better show off their efforts!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And my two grandmothers, Mina and Rachel, whose cooking I first tasted when I was ten-years-old on our first trip to Israel and forever changed my life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>S\u003cem>altsman will be at \u003ca href=\"http://www.omnivorebooks.com/events.html\" target=\"_blank\">Omnivore Books\u003c/a> in San Francisco on Sunday, September 27 from 3-5pm.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch2>RECIPES\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_100491\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/SHAKSHUKA-1920-800x1199.jpg\" alt=\"Shakshuka from The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen\" width=\"800\" height=\"1199\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-100491\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/SHAKSHUKA-1920-800x1199.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/SHAKSHUKA-1920-400x599.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/SHAKSHUKA-1920-1440x2158.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/SHAKSHUKA-1920-1180x1768.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/09/SHAKSHUKA-1920-960x1439.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shakshuka from The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen \u003ccite>( Staci Valentine)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch3>Shakshuka\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>(makes six servings)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>2 cups Matboucha (see recipe below)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 Tbsps extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>6 eggs\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Kosher or sea salt (optional)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Generous handful of chopped fresh Italian parsley\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Labneh, homemade or store-bought\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>Thickly sliced country bread, toasted, or pita bread\u003cbr>\nIn a 12-inch skillet, thin the Matboucha with water, to the consistency of thick spaghetti sauce. Add the olive oil and set over medium heat. When the sauce is bubbling, reduce the heat to medium-low.\n\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Using the back of a large spoon, make an indentation in the sauce at the 12 o’clock position. Crack an egg into the depression. Repeat with remaining eggs, spacing them evenly in the pan. Cook until the eggs are set to your liking, about 7 minutes for over-easy. Cover the pan to hasten cooking, especially if you like your eggs more well-done.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Season the eggs with salt, if desired, and shower the parsley over all. Serve directly from the pan into shallow individual bowls, accompanied by labneh and bread or pita.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003ch3>Matboucha\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>(makes about 2 ½ cups)\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>2 ½ pounds meaty tomatoes, such as Roma or Costoluto Genovese, or 1 can (28 oz.) crushed tomatoes\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 to 4 chiles, such as jalapeño or habañero or a mix, 2 to 4 oz.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>8 cloves garlic, minced\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 Tbsp sweet paprika\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 ½ tsps hot paprika, or to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>½ cup grapeseed or other mild oil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Kosher or sea salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003col>\n\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>To peel the tomatoes, either use a swivel-blade vegetable peeler or immerse them in boiling water and slip off the skins. If you like, cut the tomatoes in half and squeeze them to remove the seeds. Skip this step if the seeds don’t bother you. Chop the tomatoes into ½- to 1-inch pieces. You should have 3 ¼ to 3 ½ cups altogether. Place them in a wide pit or a deep sauté pan.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Mince the chiles and add them to the pan along with some or all of their seeds for added heat. Add the garlic, stir in the paprika, and pour the olive oil over all. Start cooking the mixture over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Once the mixture comes to a boil, reduce the heat as necessary to keep it from bubbling without burning and cook until very thick and glossy, about 1 hour. Use a splatter screen to keep your stove clean, if you like.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Remove from the heat and season to taste with salt and sugar, adding about 1 teaspoon of each. Let cool and transfer to 1 or 2 tightly capped jars. The condiment will keep in the refrigerator for 1 week and in the freezer for up to two months.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/100443/the-seasonal-jewish-kitchen-contemporary-recipes-for-the-holidays-and-every-day","authors":["5575"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_12550","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_14362"],"tags":["bayareabites_71","bayareabites_3662","bayareabites_3532","bayareabites_137","bayareabites_14823"],"featImg":"bayareabites_100448","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_1620":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_1620","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"1620","score":null,"sort":[1226170811000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"lady-in-red","title":"Lady in Red","publishDate":1226170811,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/11/pom1.jpg\" alt=\"pomegranate\" align=\"left\">It's always an honor to be asked to be part of or contribute to a wedding, but it's even more flattering when your culinary skills are called upon for said wedding.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In October, Kim specifically requested I bring my \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2005/07/14/one-potato-two-potatosalad/\">\"famous potato salad\"\u003c/a> to her post-Scotland wedding reception, and last weekend, Catherine, Jeff, and all of us wedding guests toasted their happiness with my Lady in Red at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the summer, Catherine -- for whom I once designed a \u003ca href=\"http://foodmusings.typepad.com/food_musings/2007/08/an-elderflower-.html\">simple birthday cocktail\u003c/a> to go along with her gift of St. Germain elderflower liqueur -- asked if I would shake up a special wedding cocktail. Her only request: it had to be red to match her dress. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After first assessing what the Mandarin Oriental stocked in their bar, I set about to concocting the cocktail. Aside from staining its cheeks crimson, I wanted this cocktail to be three things: seasonal, celebratory, and reflective of the bride's tastes. Well, not \u003cem>all\u003c/em> of that happened. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ignoring sangria and all other wine-based cocktails of that ilk, I knew that the red hue was going to come from cranberry or pomegranate juice (seasonal!), and after a few (read: nine) attempts, I ditched the cranberry juice. It was too easily diluted in both color and flavor. I also had to ditch my idea of including both bourbon and ginger ale in this cocktail (the bride's signature drink) because no matter what I did, the bourbon came out too...bourbon-y.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few weeks later, I started with a whole new plan and a whole new red. Now working with the stronger, tarter pomegranate juice, I cried, \"Eureka\" after three passes and then set to refining the flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Victorious and hung-over, I presented the recipe to the bride along with a list of potential names: Ruby Slipper, Scarlet 75 (the drink is an adaptation of the classic French 75), Red Letter Day, and Lady in Red. (She chose \"Lady in Red,\" so if you now have Chris de Burgh in your head, it's not my fault.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(Okay, maybe it is.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv>\u003cobject width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/OcWspfgk9c8&hl=en&fs=1\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/OcWspfgk9c8&hl=en&fs=1\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/div>\n\u003cp>On my reserve list of names was Study in Scarlet, Red-dy or Knot (my husband's contribution), The Red Menace, The Scarlet Letter, The Cat's Meow, My Love is Like a Red, Red Rose, and Redrum. (I will be saving that last one for a blood-soaked mojito or daiquiri in case Stephen King ever wants me to design a wedding cocktail for him.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lady in Red\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 oz. pomegranate juice\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 oz. gin\u003cbr>\n4 oz. ginger ale (preferably very spicy ginger ale)\u003cbr>\nSparkling rosé\u003cbr>\n2-3 dashes Angostura bitters\u003cbr>\nPomegranate seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shake pomegranate juice and gin with ice; strain into a cocktail glass. Add ginger ale and top off with sparkling rose. Finish with bitters. Garnish with four pomegranate seeds for health, happiness, love, and laughter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am pleased and relieved to report that the drink was extremely well received. Even my French friend, who I thought preferred champagne to everything, was seen drinking more than one Lady in Red. Additionally, the bartender told someone else that he's seen a lot of guest-created cocktails pass through his shaker, but he had never seen one reordered so many times. Finally -- and most importantly -- the bride, the groom, and all my cocktailing friends loved it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I hope you do, too.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Over the summer, Catherine -- for whom I once designed a \u003ca href=\"http://foodmusings.typepad.com/food_musings/2007/08/an-elderflower-.html\">simple birthday cocktail\u003c/a> to go along with her gift of St. Germain elderflower liqueur -- asked if I would shake up a special wedding cocktail. Her only request: it had to be red to match her dress. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1226429419,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":570},"headData":{"title":"Lady in Red | KQED","description":"Over the summer, Catherine -- for whom I once designed a simple birthday cocktail to go along with her gift of St. Germain elderflower liqueur -- asked if I would shake up a special wedding cocktail. Her only request: it had to be red to match her dress. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"1620 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/11/08/lady-in-red/","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/11/08/lady-in-red/","disqusTitle":"Lady in Red","path":"/bayareabites/1620/lady-in-red","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/11/pom1.jpg\" alt=\"pomegranate\" align=\"left\">It's always an honor to be asked to be part of or contribute to a wedding, but it's even more flattering when your culinary skills are called upon for said wedding.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In October, Kim specifically requested I bring my \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2005/07/14/one-potato-two-potatosalad/\">\"famous potato salad\"\u003c/a> to her post-Scotland wedding reception, and last weekend, Catherine, Jeff, and all of us wedding guests toasted their happiness with my Lady in Red at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over the summer, Catherine -- for whom I once designed a \u003ca href=\"http://foodmusings.typepad.com/food_musings/2007/08/an-elderflower-.html\">simple birthday cocktail\u003c/a> to go along with her gift of St. Germain elderflower liqueur -- asked if I would shake up a special wedding cocktail. Her only request: it had to be red to match her dress. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After first assessing what the Mandarin Oriental stocked in their bar, I set about to concocting the cocktail. Aside from staining its cheeks crimson, I wanted this cocktail to be three things: seasonal, celebratory, and reflective of the bride's tastes. Well, not \u003cem>all\u003c/em> of that happened. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ignoring sangria and all other wine-based cocktails of that ilk, I knew that the red hue was going to come from cranberry or pomegranate juice (seasonal!), and after a few (read: nine) attempts, I ditched the cranberry juice. It was too easily diluted in both color and flavor. I also had to ditch my idea of including both bourbon and ginger ale in this cocktail (the bride's signature drink) because no matter what I did, the bourbon came out too...bourbon-y.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A few weeks later, I started with a whole new plan and a whole new red. Now working with the stronger, tarter pomegranate juice, I cried, \"Eureka\" after three passes and then set to refining the flavors.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Victorious and hung-over, I presented the recipe to the bride along with a list of potential names: Ruby Slipper, Scarlet 75 (the drink is an adaptation of the classic French 75), Red Letter Day, and Lady in Red. (She chose \"Lady in Red,\" so if you now have Chris de Burgh in your head, it's not my fault.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(Okay, maybe it is.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cdiv>\u003cobject width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003cparam name=\"movie\" value=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/OcWspfgk9c8&hl=en&fs=1\">\u003cparam name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\">\u003cparam name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\">\u003cembed src=\"http://www.youtube.com/v/OcWspfgk9c8&hl=en&fs=1\" type=\"application/x-shockwave-flash\" width=\"425\" height=\"344\">\u003c/embed>\u003c/object>\u003c/div>\n\u003cp>On my reserve list of names was Study in Scarlet, Red-dy or Knot (my husband's contribution), The Red Menace, The Scarlet Letter, The Cat's Meow, My Love is Like a Red, Red Rose, and Redrum. (I will be saving that last one for a blood-soaked mojito or daiquiri in case Stephen King ever wants me to design a wedding cocktail for him.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Lady in Red\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 oz. pomegranate juice\u003cbr>\n1 1/2 oz. gin\u003cbr>\n4 oz. ginger ale (preferably very spicy ginger ale)\u003cbr>\nSparkling rosé\u003cbr>\n2-3 dashes Angostura bitters\u003cbr>\nPomegranate seeds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shake pomegranate juice and gin with ice; strain into a cocktail glass. Add ginger ale and top off with sparkling rose. Finish with bitters. Garnish with four pomegranate seeds for health, happiness, love, and laughter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I am pleased and relieved to report that the drink was extremely well received. Even my French friend, who I thought preferred champagne to everything, was seen drinking more than one Lady in Red. Additionally, the bartender told someone else that he's seen a lot of guest-created cocktails pass through his shaker, but he had never seen one reordered so many times. Finally -- and most importantly -- the bride, the groom, and all my cocktailing friends loved it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I hope you do, too.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/1620/lady-in-red","authors":["5010"],"categories":["bayareabites_1244"],"tags":["bayareabites_1563","bayareabites_1561","bayareabites_140","bayareabites_221","bayareabites_1562","bayareabites_137","bayareabites_1126"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_968":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_968","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"968","score":null,"sort":[1209041049000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"csas-and-farmers-markets","title":"CSAs and Farmers' Markets","publishDate":1209041049,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/04/food5.jpg\" alt=\"food5.jpg\" align=\"left\">Ever since I visited \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/04/05/hidden-villa/\">Hidden Villa\u003c/a>, I've been thinking of CSAs (Community Supported Agriculture). CSAs are programs where subscribers can receive a weekly box or basket of seasonal produce in exchange for either a share in a farm (usually paid upfront at the start of a season) or a weekly or monthly payment. These programs promote people building a relationship with a local farm so they can better understand where their food comes from and how it’s produced, while also getting the benefits of eating locally, seasonally, and organically. The box is pre-chosen by the farm and represents the most seasonally ripe produce of the week. You cannot choose what goes in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we adopted a puppy last week, I decided it was time to try purchasing a CSA box. Before this week, I have always tried to visit our local \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/farmersmarkets/\">farmers' market\u003c/a> each Saturday. I love wandering through the market, seeing many of the same faces behind the stalls, and picking out what I want from the large selection we are so lucky to have in California. I love smelling the fruits, tasting the lettuces, and being part of the communal shopping effort. The problem was that sometimes I didn't quite make it there, and with a new puppy, I thought my chances of getting there any time soon were slim.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I chose to use \u003ca href=\"http://www.capayorganic.com/fftoyou_info.php\">Capay Organic\u003c/a> as they offer a large box of fruits and vegetables that suited my needs to feed a family of four. They also deliver directly to homes so I don't have to go to a pick-up location, which some CSAs require. Although going to a pick-up location is a great way to get to know more about the farm you are supporting, I've felt strapped for time lately, so the home drop-off service was a huge selling point for me. Smaller boxes are also available, as are mostly fruit boxes. You can also sign up for anything from weekly to once-a-month deliveries. For a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2005/09/14/community-supported-agriculture/\">list of local CSAs and the services they provide\u003c/a> see Jennifer Maiser’s excellent post previously published on BAB.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, after a week with my box of veggies and fruits, I’ve come to realize that CSAs and Farmers' Markets offer different benefits and limitations. Following are three lists summing up my thoughts. These lists are in no way complete and I welcome any additions, disagreements, or thoughts you may have.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why You Should Use Either a CSA or Buy at the Local Farmers' Market\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 1. Small family farms are becoming scarcer each year and federal farm subsidies mostly help only large corporate farmers. I believe strongly in keeping local farms solvent, and being part of a CSA or buying regularly from a farmers' market seem the best ways to do this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 2. The farming of varied local organic produce helps the local environment. For instance, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/04/21/honey-bees/\">honey bees\u003c/a> are dying in record numbers, most likely because of the use of pesticides, which causes a neurological disorder in the bees, and because of agricultural \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/04/19/MNBR107C59.DTL&type=printable\"> “monocultures of single crops that create ‘floral deserts’ when not in bloom.”\u003c/a> Local organic farms therefore help keep the honey bees (and birds, insects, etc.) happier and healthier. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 3. Produce from both Farmers' Markets and CSAs are grown closer to home, and therefore less oil is used to get them to your table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 4. The fruits and vegetables are freshly picked and organic, with the amazing flavors that only food in peak season can have.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why Use a CSA?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 1. Having a box delivered to your front porch is incredibly convenient.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 2. If you pick up your CSA box, you have the opportunity to get to know the people from the farm you are supporting and to be part of a larger food community in your area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 3. The produce is organic, seasonal, and locally produced. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 4. Being limited to what the CSA delivers each week forces you to fully accept the idea of cooking with only seasonal produce, which can be fun and help you stretch your cooking repertoire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 5. You are assured of shopping locally each week, regardless of how busy you are or how convenient or inconvenient it is to get to the market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 6. CSAs often include something unique or fun in their weekly box that you might not find or think to buy at a farmer’s market. For instance, last week we got a bag of some of the most delicious salted pistachios I’ve ever had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 7. Many CSAs provide newsletters with recipes to subscribers, which are informative and can help you figure out how to be a better seasonal cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 8. You are often encouraged to visit the actual farm, which brings you closer to the food you eat and can help you educate your children about what they eat. The farms often also have events that you can participate in throughout the year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why Shop at a Farmers' Market?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 1. Many people, like me, want to control the quality of the produce they buy. It’s wonderful to smell a tomato, snap a bean, and taste a piece of lettuce before you purchase it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 2. It’s nice to get to choose the fruits and vegetables you want. Although I appreciate the idea that CSA providers are knowledgeable about what is ripe at any given moment, I don’t like being confined to whatever is in season only at that specific farm. For instance, when my box arrived last Friday without any strawberries or fava beans, I was disappointed. As fava beans and strawberries are in season right now, I really wanted to receive them. And when I saw that subscribers to the “mostly fruit” box got strawberries, but that my fruit and veggie box didn’t, I was a little dissatisfied.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 3. The farmers' market is a great place to get my children excited about healthy food. Our trip always starts with a visit to the bounce house, which makes them excited to go there in the first place. After they take a few turns on the bouncy, they are then in great moods and primed to pick out our vegetables for the week, which in turn makes them excited to eat those vegetables later. I also like teaching them that they are part of a larger food community, and going to the farmer’s market helps them experience that community in person.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 4. Going to the farmers' market is a fun event. Mine always has wonderful smells permeating the air, music from local performers, people of every type wandering around, and samples of produce that are perfectly in season to taste. You can feel more connected with the food you purchase and eat by getting to know the local vendors (who are often farmers). It is closer to how people have shopped for millennia than any grocery store you could ever walk into.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 5. My farmers' market has non-produce vendors that I like to patronize. I often get my beef from the Prather Ranch stand, some cheese from the local cheese ladies, and sometimes fresh fish from the fish stand in addition to my produce. There are also cooked food stands and a small flower mart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 6. Sometimes I need more of a specific vegetable than is provided in a CSA box. For instance, if chard bunches are smaller one week, I can choose to buy two to suit the needs of my family table. If I want to bake a large blueberry tart, I can purchase two pints instead of one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One nice way to get the benefits of both a CSA and your local farmers' market is to simply do both. You can often purchase a smaller weekly box from a CSA, or get one only once or twice a month and then supplement from your local farmers' market. I plan on doing this myself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Btw:\u003c/strong> Interestingly, I see that there is currently a \u003ca href=\"http://www.chowhound.com/topics/508369\">discussion about Farmers' Markets vs CSA\u003c/a> on Chowhound.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":null,"status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1209144313,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":29,"wordCount":1362},"headData":{"title":"CSAs and Farmers' Markets | KQED","description":"Ever since I visited Hidden Villa, I've been thinking of CSAs (Community Supported Agriculture). CSAs are programs where subscribers can receive a weekly box or basket of seasonal produce in exchange for either a share in a farm (usually paid upfront at the start of a season) or a weekly or monthly payment. These programs","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"968 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/04/24/csas-and-farmers-markets/","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/04/24/csas-and-farmers-markets/","disqusTitle":"CSAs and Farmers' Markets","path":"/bayareabites/968/csas-and-farmers-markets","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/04/food5.jpg\" alt=\"food5.jpg\" align=\"left\">Ever since I visited \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/04/05/hidden-villa/\">Hidden Villa\u003c/a>, I've been thinking of CSAs (Community Supported Agriculture). CSAs are programs where subscribers can receive a weekly box or basket of seasonal produce in exchange for either a share in a farm (usually paid upfront at the start of a season) or a weekly or monthly payment. These programs promote people building a relationship with a local farm so they can better understand where their food comes from and how it’s produced, while also getting the benefits of eating locally, seasonally, and organically. The box is pre-chosen by the farm and represents the most seasonally ripe produce of the week. You cannot choose what goes in it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When we adopted a puppy last week, I decided it was time to try purchasing a CSA box. Before this week, I have always tried to visit our local \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/farmersmarkets/\">farmers' market\u003c/a> each Saturday. I love wandering through the market, seeing many of the same faces behind the stalls, and picking out what I want from the large selection we are so lucky to have in California. I love smelling the fruits, tasting the lettuces, and being part of the communal shopping effort. The problem was that sometimes I didn't quite make it there, and with a new puppy, I thought my chances of getting there any time soon were slim.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I chose to use \u003ca href=\"http://www.capayorganic.com/fftoyou_info.php\">Capay Organic\u003c/a> as they offer a large box of fruits and vegetables that suited my needs to feed a family of four. They also deliver directly to homes so I don't have to go to a pick-up location, which some CSAs require. Although going to a pick-up location is a great way to get to know more about the farm you are supporting, I've felt strapped for time lately, so the home drop-off service was a huge selling point for me. Smaller boxes are also available, as are mostly fruit boxes. You can also sign up for anything from weekly to once-a-month deliveries. For a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2005/09/14/community-supported-agriculture/\">list of local CSAs and the services they provide\u003c/a> see Jennifer Maiser’s excellent post previously published on BAB.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, after a week with my box of veggies and fruits, I’ve come to realize that CSAs and Farmers' Markets offer different benefits and limitations. Following are three lists summing up my thoughts. These lists are in no way complete and I welcome any additions, disagreements, or thoughts you may have.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why You Should Use Either a CSA or Buy at the Local Farmers' Market\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 1. Small family farms are becoming scarcer each year and federal farm subsidies mostly help only large corporate farmers. I believe strongly in keeping local farms solvent, and being part of a CSA or buying regularly from a farmers' market seem the best ways to do this.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 2. The farming of varied local organic produce helps the local environment. For instance, \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/04/21/honey-bees/\">honey bees\u003c/a> are dying in record numbers, most likely because of the use of pesticides, which causes a neurological disorder in the bees, and because of agricultural \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/04/19/MNBR107C59.DTL&type=printable\"> “monocultures of single crops that create ‘floral deserts’ when not in bloom.”\u003c/a> Local organic farms therefore help keep the honey bees (and birds, insects, etc.) happier and healthier. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 3. Produce from both Farmers' Markets and CSAs are grown closer to home, and therefore less oil is used to get them to your table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 4. The fruits and vegetables are freshly picked and organic, with the amazing flavors that only food in peak season can have.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why Use a CSA?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 1. Having a box delivered to your front porch is incredibly convenient.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 2. If you pick up your CSA box, you have the opportunity to get to know the people from the farm you are supporting and to be part of a larger food community in your area.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 3. The produce is organic, seasonal, and locally produced. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 4. Being limited to what the CSA delivers each week forces you to fully accept the idea of cooking with only seasonal produce, which can be fun and help you stretch your cooking repertoire.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 5. You are assured of shopping locally each week, regardless of how busy you are or how convenient or inconvenient it is to get to the market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 6. CSAs often include something unique or fun in their weekly box that you might not find or think to buy at a farmer’s market. For instance, last week we got a bag of some of the most delicious salted pistachios I’ve ever had.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 7. Many CSAs provide newsletters with recipes to subscribers, which are informative and can help you figure out how to be a better seasonal cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 8. You are often encouraged to visit the actual farm, which brings you closer to the food you eat and can help you educate your children about what they eat. The farms often also have events that you can participate in throughout the year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Why Shop at a Farmers' Market?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 1. Many people, like me, want to control the quality of the produce they buy. It’s wonderful to smell a tomato, snap a bean, and taste a piece of lettuce before you purchase it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 2. It’s nice to get to choose the fruits and vegetables you want. Although I appreciate the idea that CSA providers are knowledgeable about what is ripe at any given moment, I don’t like being confined to whatever is in season only at that specific farm. For instance, when my box arrived last Friday without any strawberries or fava beans, I was disappointed. As fava beans and strawberries are in season right now, I really wanted to receive them. And when I saw that subscribers to the “mostly fruit” box got strawberries, but that my fruit and veggie box didn’t, I was a little dissatisfied.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 3. The farmers' market is a great place to get my children excited about healthy food. Our trip always starts with a visit to the bounce house, which makes them excited to go there in the first place. After they take a few turns on the bouncy, they are then in great moods and primed to pick out our vegetables for the week, which in turn makes them excited to eat those vegetables later. I also like teaching them that they are part of a larger food community, and going to the farmer’s market helps them experience that community in person.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 4. Going to the farmers' market is a fun event. Mine always has wonderful smells permeating the air, music from local performers, people of every type wandering around, and samples of produce that are perfectly in season to taste. You can feel more connected with the food you purchase and eat by getting to know the local vendors (who are often farmers). It is closer to how people have shopped for millennia than any grocery store you could ever walk into.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 5. My farmers' market has non-produce vendors that I like to patronize. I often get my beef from the Prather Ranch stand, some cheese from the local cheese ladies, and sometimes fresh fish from the fish stand in addition to my produce. There are also cooked food stands and a small flower mart.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> 6. Sometimes I need more of a specific vegetable than is provided in a CSA box. For instance, if chard bunches are smaller one week, I can choose to buy two to suit the needs of my family table. If I want to bake a large blueberry tart, I can purchase two pints instead of one.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One nice way to get the benefits of both a CSA and your local farmers' market is to simply do both. You can often purchase a smaller weekly box from a CSA, or get one only once or twice a month and then supplement from your local farmers' market. I plan on doing this myself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Btw:\u003c/strong> Interestingly, I see that there is currently a \u003ca href=\"http://www.chowhound.com/topics/508369\">discussion about Farmers' Markets vs CSA\u003c/a> on Chowhound.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/968/csas-and-farmers-markets","authors":["5016"],"categories":["bayareabites_95"],"tags":["bayareabites_368","bayareabites_65","bayareabites_667","bayareabites_137"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_691":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_691","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"691","score":null,"sort":[1186390800000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"peach-advice","title":"Peach Advice.","publishDate":1186390800,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Love is in the air: peaches are here, and all is right with the world. Yes, my sunglasses are rose- tinted, why do you ask?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been on the road, taking my show with me. First NYC, then Portland and most recently, Chicago. It's been fun, educational, hot, and delicious, but I've missed being home. Home is where the peaches are. Home is where I know the season's signage at my local farmers' market is. I wait and pine for strawberries, cherries soon follow, and after cherries, O Glorious stone fruit arrives, bang! a cornucopia drops out of the sky and lands on my head! It's fast. It's furious. And no one can keep up. Chefs and pastry chefs change menus daily, attempting to think of newfangled dishes to highlight summer's overwhelming, non-stop conveyor belt of tree fruit to farm, to market. It's all about pitting and prepping and ripening, and those of us who really care, trying to keep our fruit out of walk-ins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We want our diners to get a taste of what we felt when scooping up the first apricots, felt their soft downy skin and licked our chins attempting to keep every last drop of apricot nectar, spilling out like the well which \u003ca href=\"http://disney.go.com/vault/archives/movies/fantasia/fantasia.html\">Micky and the sinister brooms\u003c/a> let loose in the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This past weekend I had the extraordinary pleasure of working for my favorite peach farmer, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_91.php\">Carl Rosato of Woodleaf Farm\u003c/a>. On \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/08/woodleaf-carl-r.html\">Saturday and Sunday I joined an exceptional crew\u003c/a> to sell August's first Cassie peaches, pears, a few undercover Pink Pearl Apples (!!!), tiny sweet green grapes, red pears, mixed figs, white peaches, a dozen or so nectarines and Suncrest peaches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cassie peaches, in my humble opinion, are a reason for living.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While working at the markets this weekend I gave out a lot of peach advice. Peach advice for ripening, baking, storing, freezing, jamming, eating, and handling. I received a funny email, in fact, from my friend \u003ca href=\"http://www.cyberbilly.com/about.html\">Guy\u003c/a> today,\u003cbr> \"That was cool running in to you yesterday, selling peaches. Can't imagine what the customers though when they asked, 'Do you have any good ideas what to do with them?' AHAHHAHAH.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A fruit-inspired pastry chef could not be happier having a job wherein he was surrounded by exquisite fruit all the day long. Fruit is an exciting field of study because not all fruit is created equal. One must know the inner workings of the family of fruit when one approaches a new branch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some fruit must always be picked unripe from the tree, the best example being pears. Certain fruits will continue to ripen off the tree, two examples are pineapples, and most stone fruit. There are cranky fruits who do not like to be picked with a machine, cherries, for example. And there are laid back fruits which can go either way, they're easy, like oranges or walnuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peaches will ripen off the tree, on your counter, if you so wish. A good farmer will pick fruit right at the moment where she/he can get it to market looking alright and then allow the eater to ripen it a bit more to get it where it's desired. Many fruits will get softer but not sweeter if picked too early; mangoes are a great example of a fruit whose perfume is stolen when picked green or green-ish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This weekend, in the midst of excitedly talking a mile-a-minute about peaches, I heard some great peach advice from customers. My favorite tidbit came from a fellow at the San Rafael market in Marin named Patrick. It made me stop dead in my tracks and so I wanted to share it with y'all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What works for me, and so I share it with others is this: place peaches shoulder side down (aka \"stem end\"), on a flat surface, at room temperature, just until there's a bit of give under the skin, then refrigerate or eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Patrick had a brilliant idea. Refrigerate peaches/stone fruit all at once and take out, placing on counter (or plate) as I've described, a few days before eating. Refrigerating fruit at home, (as opposed to the massive cold storage facilities in the \"produce stream\" wherein \"refrigerators\" are the size of private airplane hangers and temperatures are kept between 30-34F), means the fruit's ripening process is slowed down, but not stopped. With Patrick's method you don't have a lot of really ripe fruit in the fridge at once. And, also, you horde a some power over the ripening process, therefore giving yourself more time to relax, find recipes you love, and do with that fruit what you want without the pressure of doing that right now!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patrick's method also allows you to buy a little more fruit than you might need or want to consume in one day or week. (Which of course makes the farmers happy.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every peach is a snowflake. \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/plumcots-apriums-pluots-and-their.jsp\">Every varietal is different\u003c/a>, every farm growing a particular varietal grows them differently. Every soil and location and method will produce a different peach. Every tree on in that orchard growing that peach will ripen and concentrate its sugars and acids differently. Depending on how much of one kind a farmer has, and which market they're selling them at, will determine or \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/07/cost-of-flavorful-peach.jsp\">fetch a different price.\u003c/a> And every mouth eating that peach like a snowflake will react to it differently.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We all know at what point exactly we like to eat a banana. Even within one family each member will like a slightly more or less green specimen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My Peach Advice? Jot down the names and details of the peaches and the farmers with whom you interacted with this year so that next year you will leap at the chance to buy your favorites, have mouth notes from which to comparison shop/eat, and ripen gently and slowly the fruit you choose to buy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if you see me selling peaches, please stop by and say hello, I'd love to expound further, or just introduce you to my favorite fruit!\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":null,"status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1233852803,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":19,"wordCount":1034},"headData":{"title":"Peach Advice. | KQED","description":"Love is in the air: peaches are here, and all is right with the world. Yes, my sunglasses are rose- tinted, why do you ask? I've been on the road, taking my show with me. First NYC, then Portland and most recently, Chicago. It's been fun, educational, hot, and delicious, but I've missed being home.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"691 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/08/06/peach-advice/","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/08/06/peach-advice/","disqusTitle":"Peach Advice.","path":"/bayareabites/691/peach-advice","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Love is in the air: peaches are here, and all is right with the world. Yes, my sunglasses are rose- tinted, why do you ask?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I've been on the road, taking my show with me. First NYC, then Portland and most recently, Chicago. It's been fun, educational, hot, and delicious, but I've missed being home. Home is where the peaches are. Home is where I know the season's signage at my local farmers' market is. I wait and pine for strawberries, cherries soon follow, and after cherries, O Glorious stone fruit arrives, bang! a cornucopia drops out of the sky and lands on my head! It's fast. It's furious. And no one can keep up. Chefs and pastry chefs change menus daily, attempting to think of newfangled dishes to highlight summer's overwhelming, non-stop conveyor belt of tree fruit to farm, to market. It's all about pitting and prepping and ripening, and those of us who really care, trying to keep our fruit out of walk-ins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We want our diners to get a taste of what we felt when scooping up the first apricots, felt their soft downy skin and licked our chins attempting to keep every last drop of apricot nectar, spilling out like the well which \u003ca href=\"http://disney.go.com/vault/archives/movies/fantasia/fantasia.html\">Micky and the sinister brooms\u003c/a> let loose in the night.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This past weekend I had the extraordinary pleasure of working for my favorite peach farmer, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_91.php\">Carl Rosato of Woodleaf Farm\u003c/a>. On \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/08/woodleaf-carl-r.html\">Saturday and Sunday I joined an exceptional crew\u003c/a> to sell August's first Cassie peaches, pears, a few undercover Pink Pearl Apples (!!!), tiny sweet green grapes, red pears, mixed figs, white peaches, a dozen or so nectarines and Suncrest peaches.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cassie peaches, in my humble opinion, are a reason for living.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While working at the markets this weekend I gave out a lot of peach advice. Peach advice for ripening, baking, storing, freezing, jamming, eating, and handling. I received a funny email, in fact, from my friend \u003ca href=\"http://www.cyberbilly.com/about.html\">Guy\u003c/a> today,\u003cbr> \"That was cool running in to you yesterday, selling peaches. Can't imagine what the customers though when they asked, 'Do you have any good ideas what to do with them?' AHAHHAHAH.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A fruit-inspired pastry chef could not be happier having a job wherein he was surrounded by exquisite fruit all the day long. Fruit is an exciting field of study because not all fruit is created equal. One must know the inner workings of the family of fruit when one approaches a new branch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some fruit must always be picked unripe from the tree, the best example being pears. Certain fruits will continue to ripen off the tree, two examples are pineapples, and most stone fruit. There are cranky fruits who do not like to be picked with a machine, cherries, for example. And there are laid back fruits which can go either way, they're easy, like oranges or walnuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peaches will ripen off the tree, on your counter, if you so wish. A good farmer will pick fruit right at the moment where she/he can get it to market looking alright and then allow the eater to ripen it a bit more to get it where it's desired. Many fruits will get softer but not sweeter if picked too early; mangoes are a great example of a fruit whose perfume is stolen when picked green or green-ish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This weekend, in the midst of excitedly talking a mile-a-minute about peaches, I heard some great peach advice from customers. My favorite tidbit came from a fellow at the San Rafael market in Marin named Patrick. It made me stop dead in my tracks and so I wanted to share it with y'all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What works for me, and so I share it with others is this: place peaches shoulder side down (aka \"stem end\"), on a flat surface, at room temperature, just until there's a bit of give under the skin, then refrigerate or eat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Patrick had a brilliant idea. Refrigerate peaches/stone fruit all at once and take out, placing on counter (or plate) as I've described, a few days before eating. Refrigerating fruit at home, (as opposed to the massive cold storage facilities in the \"produce stream\" wherein \"refrigerators\" are the size of private airplane hangers and temperatures are kept between 30-34F), means the fruit's ripening process is slowed down, but not stopped. With Patrick's method you don't have a lot of really ripe fruit in the fridge at once. And, also, you horde a some power over the ripening process, therefore giving yourself more time to relax, find recipes you love, and do with that fruit what you want without the pressure of doing that right now!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Patrick's method also allows you to buy a little more fruit than you might need or want to consume in one day or week. (Which of course makes the farmers happy.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every peach is a snowflake. \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/05/plumcots-apriums-pluots-and-their.jsp\">Every varietal is different\u003c/a>, every farm growing a particular varietal grows them differently. Every soil and location and method will produce a different peach. Every tree on in that orchard growing that peach will ripen and concentrate its sugars and acids differently. Depending on how much of one kind a farmer has, and which market they're selling them at, will determine or \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/07/cost-of-flavorful-peach.jsp\">fetch a different price.\u003c/a> And every mouth eating that peach like a snowflake will react to it differently.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We all know at what point exactly we like to eat a banana. Even within one family each member will like a slightly more or less green specimen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My Peach Advice? Jot down the names and details of the peaches and the farmers with whom you interacted with this year so that next year you will leap at the chance to buy your favorites, have mouth notes from which to comparison shop/eat, and ripen gently and slowly the fruit you choose to buy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if you see me selling peaches, please stop by and say hello, I'd love to expound further, or just introduce you to my favorite fruit!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/691/peach-advice","authors":["5021"],"categories":["bayareabites_95"],"tags":["bayareabites_14751","bayareabites_134","bayareabites_244","bayareabites_110","bayareabites_367","bayareabites_137","bayareabites_58","bayareabites_343"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_625":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_625","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"625","score":null,"sort":[1180340700000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"plumcots-apriums-pluots-and-their-father-of-invention","title":"Plumcots, Apriums, Pluots and Their Father of Invention","publishDate":1180340700,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>It's that time of year. When Bay Area markets are jumping with stone fruits. Names whimsical, actual and unpronounceable and downright silly fill signage over mysterious glowing orbs. People want to know, \"What's the difference between a pluot and a plumcot, a nectarcot and an aprium? Why all the funny names? What happened to the straight up plum, apricot, nectarine and peach?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The full answer is too wordy for this medium. But, truth be told, there are almost no fruits we eat out hand today which are their true selves in their original form. \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prunus\">All stone fruits are hybrids\u003c/a> of the bitter almond tree, and all have been developed by horticulturalists for hundreds of years to withstand certain weather conditions, soils and various interfering pests. And in the last one hundred years or so, farmers have been juggling/gambling with different trees in an attempt to provide Americans with what appears to be one fruit during the course of a season. The peach you eat in May is not the peach you eat in June or July. But the hope is that on each of these hot summer days, you can find, buy and eat a peach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's almost impossible to keep up with all the stone fruit hybrids once summer begins. They rush at us like stars in a meteor shower. Some varietals last a month, but many come and go within a week or even days! My favorite farm for stone fruit is \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_8.php\">Blossom Bluff\u003c/a>. Ted and Fran Loewen grow dozens of varietals, oftentimes experimenting or sticking with more difficult trees and fruit to provide their customers with a delicious spectrum of complex, aromatic, texturally sensuous fruits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's been as big a surprise to me, as anyone else, that peaches and various plum-apricot hybrids are arriving at the farmers' market as early as this. It's May; still spring by the calendar! But here they all are, available for the picking, and in wide sweeping arrays and displays at \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleybowl.com/pages/produce.html\">Berkeley Bowl\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereymarket.com/index.htm\">Monterey Market\u003c/a> and local farmers' markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unless a farmer has stayed loyal to calling these hybrids their proper names, what you buy here will be named something different there. As of yet there's little regulation to insure names stay consistent. Train your nose and mouth to recognize new varietals. Pick fruit that has a strong scent when you go in for the smell. All stone fruit can ripen off the tree. Unless your house is very hot or humid, ripen fruit further by setting fruit on its shoulders, stem side down, until, when pressed, flesh has a bit of give. If the fruit you buy is very ripe, be sure to refrigerate it immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Early fruits will be smaller and higher in acid than their later cousins. Fruit whose color bleeds right down into the stem end will ripen sweeter than those whose color is yellow or green by the stem. Look for fruit with saturated color. The sun's blush is what determines sugar in stone fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But remember, some of these varietals will be gone before you can decide if you'll like them! Buy a few of each as the season progresses and jot down the name on the placard as well as the name of the farm stand. These notes will help you get a head-start on next years stone fruit onslaught.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have an interest in the history of these quirky hybrids, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zaiger%27s_Genetics\">Mr. Floyd Zaiger\u003c/a> is the first person to learn about. He has contributed more to stone fruit hybridization than any other person to date.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Short Pieces on Floyd Zaiger:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yourproduceman.com/news_aug_1_05.html\">Your Produce Man\u003c/a>\u003cbr>News from \u003ca href=\"http://www.davewilson.com/z_file/TOC_zaiger.html\">The Dave Wilson Nursery\u003c/a> (where many California farmers buy these various hybrids.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if you are a nerdy (budding) fruit historian (pun intended) like me, you'll enjoy words written by and about the infamous David Karp, Fruit Detective extraordinaire:\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.californiaheartland.org/archive/hl_735/fruitdetect.htm\">\u003cbr> California Heartland . Org\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.booknoise.net/johnseabrook/stories/culture/detective/index.html\">John Seabrook from The New Yorker\u003c/a> spends a few days with our man.\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.smithsonianmagazine.com/issues/2006/july/karp.php\">Smithsonian Magazine interview\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":null,"status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1180340700,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":13,"wordCount":671},"headData":{"title":"Plumcots, Apriums, Pluots and Their Father of Invention | KQED","description":"It's that time of year. When Bay Area markets are jumping with stone fruits. Names whimsical, actual and unpronounceable and downright silly fill signage over mysterious glowing orbs. People want to know, "What's the difference between a pluot and a plumcot, a nectarcot and an aprium? Why all the funny names? What happened to the","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"625 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/05/28/plumcots-apriums-pluots-and-their-father-of-invention/","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/05/28/plumcots-apriums-pluots-and-their-father-of-invention/","disqusTitle":"Plumcots, Apriums, Pluots and Their Father of Invention","path":"/bayareabites/625/plumcots-apriums-pluots-and-their-father-of-invention","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>It's that time of year. When Bay Area markets are jumping with stone fruits. Names whimsical, actual and unpronounceable and downright silly fill signage over mysterious glowing orbs. People want to know, \"What's the difference between a pluot and a plumcot, a nectarcot and an aprium? Why all the funny names? What happened to the straight up plum, apricot, nectarine and peach?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The full answer is too wordy for this medium. But, truth be told, there are almost no fruits we eat out hand today which are their true selves in their original form. \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prunus\">All stone fruits are hybrids\u003c/a> of the bitter almond tree, and all have been developed by horticulturalists for hundreds of years to withstand certain weather conditions, soils and various interfering pests. And in the last one hundred years or so, farmers have been juggling/gambling with different trees in an attempt to provide Americans with what appears to be one fruit during the course of a season. The peach you eat in May is not the peach you eat in June or July. But the hope is that on each of these hot summer days, you can find, buy and eat a peach.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's almost impossible to keep up with all the stone fruit hybrids once summer begins. They rush at us like stars in a meteor shower. Some varietals last a month, but many come and go within a week or even days! My favorite farm for stone fruit is \u003ca href=\"http://www.cuesa.org/markets/farmers/farm_8.php\">Blossom Bluff\u003c/a>. Ted and Fran Loewen grow dozens of varietals, oftentimes experimenting or sticking with more difficult trees and fruit to provide their customers with a delicious spectrum of complex, aromatic, texturally sensuous fruits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's been as big a surprise to me, as anyone else, that peaches and various plum-apricot hybrids are arriving at the farmers' market as early as this. It's May; still spring by the calendar! But here they all are, available for the picking, and in wide sweeping arrays and displays at \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleybowl.com/pages/produce.html\">Berkeley Bowl\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereymarket.com/index.htm\">Monterey Market\u003c/a> and local farmers' markets.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Unless a farmer has stayed loyal to calling these hybrids their proper names, what you buy here will be named something different there. As of yet there's little regulation to insure names stay consistent. Train your nose and mouth to recognize new varietals. Pick fruit that has a strong scent when you go in for the smell. All stone fruit can ripen off the tree. Unless your house is very hot or humid, ripen fruit further by setting fruit on its shoulders, stem side down, until, when pressed, flesh has a bit of give. If the fruit you buy is very ripe, be sure to refrigerate it immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Early fruits will be smaller and higher in acid than their later cousins. Fruit whose color bleeds right down into the stem end will ripen sweeter than those whose color is yellow or green by the stem. Look for fruit with saturated color. The sun's blush is what determines sugar in stone fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But remember, some of these varietals will be gone before you can decide if you'll like them! Buy a few of each as the season progresses and jot down the name on the placard as well as the name of the farm stand. These notes will help you get a head-start on next years stone fruit onslaught.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you have an interest in the history of these quirky hybrids, \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zaiger%27s_Genetics\">Mr. Floyd Zaiger\u003c/a> is the first person to learn about. He has contributed more to stone fruit hybridization than any other person to date.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Short Pieces on Floyd Zaiger:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yourproduceman.com/news_aug_1_05.html\">Your Produce Man\u003c/a>\u003cbr>News from \u003ca href=\"http://www.davewilson.com/z_file/TOC_zaiger.html\">The Dave Wilson Nursery\u003c/a> (where many California farmers buy these various hybrids.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And if you are a nerdy (budding) fruit historian (pun intended) like me, you'll enjoy words written by and about the infamous David Karp, Fruit Detective extraordinaire:\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.californiaheartland.org/archive/hl_735/fruitdetect.htm\">\u003cbr> California Heartland . Org\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.booknoise.net/johnseabrook/stories/culture/detective/index.html\">John Seabrook from The New Yorker\u003c/a> spends a few days with our man.\u003cbr>\u003ca href=\"http://www.smithsonianmagazine.com/issues/2006/july/karp.php\">Smithsonian Magazine interview\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/625/plumcots-apriums-pluots-and-their-father-of-invention","authors":["5021"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_64","bayareabites_95","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_129","bayareabites_134","bayareabites_244","bayareabites_14769","bayareabites_110","bayareabites_65","bayareabites_132","bayareabites_137","bayareabites_58","bayareabites_218"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_620":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_620","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"620","score":null,"sort":[1179932640000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"wine-dine-donate-with-mark-franz","title":"Wine. Dine. Donate. with Mark Franz","publishDate":1179932640,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/markfranzwdd-757568.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/markfranzwdd-757564.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tanya Steel, editor-in-chief of Epicurious.com, and chefs Mark Franz, Jan Birnbaum, and Parke Ulrich invite you to San Francisco's \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.farallonrestaurant.com/\">Farallon\u003c/a>\u003c/b> for a dinner to benefit America's Second Harvest. The evening's special menu will feature dishes personally created by each chef, including diver scallop carpaccio, crispy maple pork belly, and roasted strawberry turnovers. \u003cbr>Click here to \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"https://www.wolff-smg.com/orders/epicurious/index.php?\">purchase tickets\u003c/a>\u003c/b>. Dates for this event in Chicago and New York have already sold out!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I talked to Mark Franz recently about the dinner and what's new:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>For those who haven't dined at Farallon before, how would you describe it?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>It's fine dining, sophisticated and elegant. We keep our approach pretty simple in that it's all seasonal, our menu changes weekly and sometimes daily. We give people the whole package--great food and service and almost over the top design, it's whimsical but we take it seriously. It's not a stuffy restaurant people feel at home. Upscale but not pretentious. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What's your philosophy for putting a dish together?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>This really feels like one of the best times of the year right now--I'm not particularly religious but it seems like God has a plan, anything that's in season works together. Pick what's in season and it will work together that's my philosophy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How did you choose what to feature for the Wine. Dine. Donate. menu?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>I'm using diver scallops--they are perfect, big and luscious and they aren't dipped, we get them fresh every day so there are no additives no extra water in them, they are extremely fresh and just magnificent. Three quarters of what I find in the supermarket I would send away. I picked something seasonal with fava beans and artichokes to go with the scallop carpaccio. Those two ingredients are a real marriage and I try to turn people on to them. All of that gets served with a gribiche which is an eggy sauce with capers and tarragon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You've been working on the opening of Water Bar on the Embarcadero, what will that be like?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>The food will be clean and simple. It will be more provincial in the sense that the food will be grilled, roasted, less rich ingredients. In general, more simple, more straight ahead, everyday meals that are more mediterranean in approach less of the classic French approach you find at Farallon. What I'm doing at Water Bar is what I wanted to do at Farallon, more everyday than special occasion dining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Farallon has been around for 10 years, what's new?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>The raw bar is new. When you come into the bar there is more excitement because the oysters are in the front not in the kitchen. We sell thousands of oysters but we were never listed as a raw bar so now we moved them into the bar. It's kind of like reinventing yourself but realistically the seafood is the same. If you haven't been in for a while you should check it out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What's it like working with Jan Birnbaum at Farallon?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Jan worked here for the last year and a half---we've known each other for 30 years. We both try to utilize what's seasonal and make sense of it. There are no egos involved--Jan's influence shows up in that we do more charcuterie, he's known for braising meats and New Orleans style cooking of course. But we each choose dishes and see what works together. Seafood and pork work especially well together. There isn't a lot of fat on seafood so the pork belly adds a nice velvety layer.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":null,"status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1179932640,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":11,"wordCount":619},"headData":{"title":"Wine. Dine. Donate. with Mark Franz | KQED","description":"Tanya Steel, editor-in-chief of Epicurious.com, and chefs Mark Franz, Jan Birnbaum, and Parke Ulrich invite you to San Francisco's Farallon for a dinner to benefit America's Second Harvest. The evening's special menu will feature dishes personally created by each chef, including diver scallop carpaccio, crispy maple pork belly, and roasted strawberry turnovers. Click here to","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"620 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/05/23/wine-dine-donate-with-mark-franz/","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/05/23/wine-dine-donate-with-mark-franz/","disqusTitle":"Wine. Dine. Donate. with Mark Franz","path":"/bayareabites/620/wine-dine-donate-with-mark-franz","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/markfranzwdd-757568.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/uploaded_images/markfranzwdd-757564.jpg\" border=\"0\" alt=\"\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Tanya Steel, editor-in-chief of Epicurious.com, and chefs Mark Franz, Jan Birnbaum, and Parke Ulrich invite you to San Francisco's \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"http://www.farallonrestaurant.com/\">Farallon\u003c/a>\u003c/b> for a dinner to benefit America's Second Harvest. The evening's special menu will feature dishes personally created by each chef, including diver scallop carpaccio, crispy maple pork belly, and roasted strawberry turnovers. \u003cbr>Click here to \u003cb>\u003ca href=\"https://www.wolff-smg.com/orders/epicurious/index.php?\">purchase tickets\u003c/a>\u003c/b>. Dates for this event in Chicago and New York have already sold out!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I talked to Mark Franz recently about the dinner and what's new:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>For those who haven't dined at Farallon before, how would you describe it?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>It's fine dining, sophisticated and elegant. We keep our approach pretty simple in that it's all seasonal, our menu changes weekly and sometimes daily. We give people the whole package--great food and service and almost over the top design, it's whimsical but we take it seriously. It's not a stuffy restaurant people feel at home. Upscale but not pretentious. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What's your philosophy for putting a dish together?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>This really feels like one of the best times of the year right now--I'm not particularly religious but it seems like God has a plan, anything that's in season works together. Pick what's in season and it will work together that's my philosophy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>How did you choose what to feature for the Wine. Dine. Donate. menu?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>I'm using diver scallops--they are perfect, big and luscious and they aren't dipped, we get them fresh every day so there are no additives no extra water in them, they are extremely fresh and just magnificent. Three quarters of what I find in the supermarket I would send away. I picked something seasonal with fava beans and artichokes to go with the scallop carpaccio. Those two ingredients are a real marriage and I try to turn people on to them. All of that gets served with a gribiche which is an eggy sauce with capers and tarragon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>You've been working on the opening of Water Bar on the Embarcadero, what will that be like?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>The food will be clean and simple. It will be more provincial in the sense that the food will be grilled, roasted, less rich ingredients. In general, more simple, more straight ahead, everyday meals that are more mediterranean in approach less of the classic French approach you find at Farallon. What I'm doing at Water Bar is what I wanted to do at Farallon, more everyday than special occasion dining.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>Farallon has been around for 10 years, what's new?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>The raw bar is new. When you come into the bar there is more excitement because the oysters are in the front not in the kitchen. We sell thousands of oysters but we were never listed as a raw bar so now we moved them into the bar. It's kind of like reinventing yourself but realistically the seafood is the same. If you haven't been in for a while you should check it out. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cb>What's it like working with Jan Birnbaum at Farallon?\u003c/b>\u003cbr>Jan worked here for the last year and a half---we've known each other for 30 years. We both try to utilize what's seasonal and make sense of it. There are no egos involved--Jan's influence shows up in that we do more charcuterie, he's known for braising meats and New Orleans style cooking of course. But we each choose dishes and see what works together. Seafood and pork work especially well together. There isn't a lot of fat on seafood so the pork belly adds a nice velvety layer.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/620/wine-dine-donate-with-mark-franz","authors":["5020"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_77","bayareabites_137"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_611":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_611","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"611","score":null,"sort":[1179145620000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"plated-desserts-a-game","title":"Plated Desserts, A Game.","publishDate":1179145620,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Anthony Bourdain hit the nail on the head in his iconic book Kitchen Confidential, when he said, \"pastry chefs are the neurologists of the kitchen.\" We like things just so, and will stop only at premeditated murder, to make sure it stays this way. We are organized to the point of scary, and we guard our (often tiny) stations like junkyard dogs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pastry chefs like things clean, orderly, in excellent working order, and labeled. When I worked at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bolorestaurant.com/\">Bolo\u003c/a> in NYC, I would lock our station's chinois (fine mesh strainer) in my locker and would refuse the chef's request for it, even when he begged. I knew our pristine chinois would be introduced to garlic, or worse: a 4 oz. ladle. (If you must force something through this expensive, delicate piece of equipment, use the smallest ladle: 1-2 oz.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As some of you know, I've spent the last seven days baking up a storm for \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/05/plated_dessert__1.html\">a major plated dessert tasting\u003c/a> I have today at noon. I'm working primarily out of restaurant kitchen in San Francisco, which is great because, in my one bedroom flat in Berkeley, I don't have a walk-in refrigerator. Nor do I have a row of burners and any number of ovens for various sensitive custards and buttery shortbread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0930.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But working out the details has been a logistical challenge. Lists and lists and lists get made, sometimes twice a day. I'm arranging time sensitive batters, freezing times, a fight for space in an extremely busy establishment, and I want the seven people eating my desserts today to taste the freshest of flavors! I've only been able to be in said kitchen from @ 6:30-9/10 AM a few days, and the rest of the time I'm testing components in my home. I've also wanted to build in time for testing, tasting and re-making if needed. Disasters always take more time than we think they will.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/sfgate/category?blogid=26&cat=840\">The trick to plated desserts is to create a menu that is all things to all people\u003c/a>. Desserts need to be:\u003cbr>Both comforting and innovative, cold and hot, soft and crunchy, smooth and toothsome, sweet and a little salty, a balance of acid and fat, pretty to look at, right-sized and worth the price (don't get me started on this), eaten only with one utensil, have a pronounce-able name on the menu, sweets the waiters like, something you want to eat after that which came before, have a plating style which matches the aesthetic of the dining room/savory food/the diner's outfits, seasonal or mostly chocolate, flavorful or too sweet, dumbed down or esoteric and conceptual.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you can see, it's a tall order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pastry chefs are responsible for feeding you your last morsel. We can help you to leave happy or discouraged. We can save a mediocre meal or confuse a good one with awfulness. We can give you more of what you've been eating since the 80's: creme brulee, warm molten chocolate cake, apple tart, lemon bars, hot fudge sundaes and mint leaf garnishes. Or we can introduce you to fruits at their peak of flavor, subtle herb infused ice creams and pot de cremes, seemingly savory ingredients infiltrating the last course, and allow your imaginations to soar as we push the envelope for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you trust the pastry chef, you can take virtual trips to sights unseen and explored! Beyond your wildest imaginings...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_7946.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_7945.JPG\">\u003cbr>The pastry chef's prep lists at \u003ca href=\"http://www.coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To this end, I bring you a game. The Plated Dessert Menu Game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I give you 6 mains, and a list of possible components. Each main needs at least 3 components to comprise one cohesive plated dessert. You can take creative license with one dessert and add a component that's not on the list, but you have to say why you chose to do so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mains:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Butterscotch pot de creme 2. Carnaroli rice pudding 3. Warm milk chocolate veloute 4. Ricotta cheesecake (this has no crust) 5. Pate a choux doughnuts 6. Lemon Sherbet\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Components:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Crunchy poached rhubarb dice, Vanilla Egg Cream, Chantilly, Malt ice cream, Cherries, Brown Butter ice cream, Candied Citrus Zests, Mesquite flour, Rose geranium, Pecan shortbread, Warm chocolate sauce, Cherry vinegar, Double Vanilla Shortbread, Cocoa nibs, Fleur de Sel, Dacquoise, California Bay Laurel gelee, Shuna's Famous Graham Crackers, and Swiss meringue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>GO!\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":null,"status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1179145620,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":745},"headData":{"title":"Plated Desserts, A Game. | KQED","description":"Anthony Bourdain hit the nail on the head in his iconic book Kitchen Confidential, when he said, "pastry chefs are the neurologists of the kitchen." We like things just so, and will stop only at premeditated murder, to make sure it stays this way. We are organized to the point of scary, and we guard","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"611 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/05/14/plated-desserts-a-game/","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/05/14/plated-desserts-a-game/","disqusTitle":"Plated Desserts, A Game.","path":"/bayareabites/611/plated-desserts-a-game","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Anthony Bourdain hit the nail on the head in his iconic book Kitchen Confidential, when he said, \"pastry chefs are the neurologists of the kitchen.\" We like things just so, and will stop only at premeditated murder, to make sure it stays this way. We are organized to the point of scary, and we guard our (often tiny) stations like junkyard dogs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pastry chefs like things clean, orderly, in excellent working order, and labeled. When I worked at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bolorestaurant.com/\">Bolo\u003c/a> in NYC, I would lock our station's chinois (fine mesh strainer) in my locker and would refuse the chef's request for it, even when he begged. I knew our pristine chinois would be introduced to garlic, or worse: a 4 oz. ladle. (If you must force something through this expensive, delicate piece of equipment, use the smallest ladle: 1-2 oz.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As some of you know, I've spent the last seven days baking up a storm for \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2007/05/plated_dessert__1.html\">a major plated dessert tasting\u003c/a> I have today at noon. I'm working primarily out of restaurant kitchen in San Francisco, which is great because, in my one bedroom flat in Berkeley, I don't have a walk-in refrigerator. Nor do I have a row of burners and any number of ovens for various sensitive custards and buttery shortbread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_0930.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But working out the details has been a logistical challenge. Lists and lists and lists get made, sometimes twice a day. I'm arranging time sensitive batters, freezing times, a fight for space in an extremely busy establishment, and I want the seven people eating my desserts today to taste the freshest of flavors! I've only been able to be in said kitchen from @ 6:30-9/10 AM a few days, and the rest of the time I'm testing components in my home. I've also wanted to build in time for testing, tasting and re-making if needed. Disasters always take more time than we think they will.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/sfgate/category?blogid=26&cat=840\">The trick to plated desserts is to create a menu that is all things to all people\u003c/a>. Desserts need to be:\u003cbr>Both comforting and innovative, cold and hot, soft and crunchy, smooth and toothsome, sweet and a little salty, a balance of acid and fat, pretty to look at, right-sized and worth the price (don't get me started on this), eaten only with one utensil, have a pronounce-able name on the menu, sweets the waiters like, something you want to eat after that which came before, have a plating style which matches the aesthetic of the dining room/savory food/the diner's outfits, seasonal or mostly chocolate, flavorful or too sweet, dumbed down or esoteric and conceptual.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you can see, it's a tall order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pastry chefs are responsible for feeding you your last morsel. We can help you to leave happy or discouraged. We can save a mediocre meal or confuse a good one with awfulness. We can give you more of what you've been eating since the 80's: creme brulee, warm molten chocolate cake, apple tart, lemon bars, hot fudge sundaes and mint leaf garnishes. Or we can introduce you to fruits at their peak of flavor, subtle herb infused ice creams and pot de cremes, seemingly savory ingredients infiltrating the last course, and allow your imaginations to soar as we push the envelope for you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you trust the pastry chef, you can take virtual trips to sights unseen and explored! Beyond your wildest imaginings...\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_7946.JPG\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/IMG_7945.JPG\">\u003cbr>The pastry chef's prep lists at \u003ca href=\"http://www.coirestaurant.com/\">Coi\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To this end, I bring you a game. The Plated Dessert Menu Game.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I give you 6 mains, and a list of possible components. Each main needs at least 3 components to comprise one cohesive plated dessert. You can take creative license with one dessert and add a component that's not on the list, but you have to say why you chose to do so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mains:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Butterscotch pot de creme 2. Carnaroli rice pudding 3. Warm milk chocolate veloute 4. Ricotta cheesecake (this has no crust) 5. Pate a choux doughnuts 6. Lemon Sherbet\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Components:\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Crunchy poached rhubarb dice, Vanilla Egg Cream, Chantilly, Malt ice cream, Cherries, Brown Butter ice cream, Candied Citrus Zests, Mesquite flour, Rose geranium, Pecan shortbread, Warm chocolate sauce, Cherry vinegar, Double Vanilla Shortbread, Cocoa nibs, Fleur de Sel, Dacquoise, California Bay Laurel gelee, Shuna's Famous Graham Crackers, and Swiss meringue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>GO!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/611/plated-desserts-a-game","authors":["5021"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1653"],"tags":["bayareabites_203","bayareabites_137","bayareabites_58"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_561":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_561","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"561","score":null,"sort":[1174892460000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"sweet-salt-relish-a-perfect-passover-garnish","title":"Sweet & Salt Relish. A Perfect Passover Garnish...","publishDate":1174892460,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\"Sweet & Salt Relish\" is a recipe entry dated March/April 2003 in one of my little recipe books. Each book corresponds to a time period, the restaurant I was working in at the time. The pages in this one reflect recipes I used in my first months at \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/about_us.html\">Aziza\u003c/a>, a Moroccan restaurant with a particularly modern Californian slant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was attempting to create a vegan garnish for the sorbet plate. Mourad Lahlou, Aziza's chef/owner, serves food thick with aroma and spice, rich with clarified butter and intense from slow braised meat sauces. My goal was to create sweets clean and bright with seasonal flavors: desserts I would crave after eating his North African sweet-savory food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inspired by \u003ca href=\"http://www.recipezaar.com/215450\">Haroseth\u003c/a> and in lieu of Passover, a Jewish holiday ending in the eating of flour-free \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/04/passover_desser.html\">(unleavened) desserts\u003c/a>, I give you an intriguing garnish for just about anything sweet, savory, or both. Although this recipe could be made very quickly in a food processor, I strongly suggest chopping all the fruits and nuts by hand. Not only will you have more control over the size and shape of each piece, it will give you time to meditate on \u003ca href=\"http://www.funmunch.com/events/passover/seder.shtml\">the traditions of eating representational foods\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SWEET & SALT RELISH\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 C Organic Raw Almonds\u003cbr>\n3/4 Cup Candied Kumquats*\u003cbr>\n1 Cup California Dried Apricots\u003cbr>\n10 each Dried White Figs\u003cbr>\n1 Cup Cold Press Extra Virgin Olive Oil\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon Sel Gris\u003cbr>\n1/4 Cup Cocoa Nibs\u003cbr>\nOptional: Honey, Lemon Zest or 1/4 Preserved Lemon (peel only)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Rough chop almonds, candied kumquats (*get recipe \u003ca href=\"http://egghunt.typepad.com/egghunt/2006/04/swan_song.html\">by clicking here\u003c/a>), apricots and figs, and place in bowl. Stir to combine.\u003cbr>\n2. Stir in olive oil, salt and minced preserved lemon peel or optional ingredients.\u003cbr>\n3. Just before serving, add cocoa nibs. (This step will preserve some of their crunch, but it's not absolutely necessary.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweet & Salt Relish will keep upwards of a month refrigerated in a non-reactive, tightly sealed container.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I used this kooky garnish for \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/01/redwood-hill-goat-yogurt-granite-or.jsp\">sorbet\u003c/a>, but it would also be lovely with most any cheese, especially fresh ones like ricotta, chevre or fromage frais. For those of you who like both a savory as well as a sweet breakfast, Sweet & Salt Relish would be delicious with yogurt-- plain, Greek or goat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoy! And if it pertains to you and yours, Happy Pesach!\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":null,"status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1207778776,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":11,"wordCount":398},"headData":{"title":"Sweet & Salt Relish. A Perfect Passover Garnish... | KQED","description":""Sweet & Salt Relish" is a recipe entry dated March/April 2003 in one of my little recipe books. Each book corresponds to a time period, the restaurant I was working in at the time. The pages in this one reflect recipes I used in my first months at Aziza, a Moroccan restaurant with a particularly","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"561 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/03/26/sweet-salt-relish-a-perfect-passover-garnish/","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/03/26/sweet-salt-relish-a-perfect-passover-garnish/","disqusTitle":"Sweet & Salt Relish. A Perfect Passover Garnish...","path":"/bayareabites/561/sweet-salt-relish-a-perfect-passover-garnish","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\"Sweet & Salt Relish\" is a recipe entry dated March/April 2003 in one of my little recipe books. Each book corresponds to a time period, the restaurant I was working in at the time. The pages in this one reflect recipes I used in my first months at \u003ca href=\"http://www.aziza-sf.com/about_us.html\">Aziza\u003c/a>, a Moroccan restaurant with a particularly modern Californian slant.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I was attempting to create a vegan garnish for the sorbet plate. Mourad Lahlou, Aziza's chef/owner, serves food thick with aroma and spice, rich with clarified butter and intense from slow braised meat sauces. My goal was to create sweets clean and bright with seasonal flavors: desserts I would crave after eating his North African sweet-savory food.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inspired by \u003ca href=\"http://www.recipezaar.com/215450\">Haroseth\u003c/a> and in lieu of Passover, a Jewish holiday ending in the eating of flour-free \u003ca href=\"http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2006/04/passover_desser.html\">(unleavened) desserts\u003c/a>, I give you an intriguing garnish for just about anything sweet, savory, or both. Although this recipe could be made very quickly in a food processor, I strongly suggest chopping all the fruits and nuts by hand. Not only will you have more control over the size and shape of each piece, it will give you time to meditate on \u003ca href=\"http://www.funmunch.com/events/passover/seder.shtml\">the traditions of eating representational foods\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>SWEET & SALT RELISH\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 C Organic Raw Almonds\u003cbr>\n3/4 Cup Candied Kumquats*\u003cbr>\n1 Cup California Dried Apricots\u003cbr>\n10 each Dried White Figs\u003cbr>\n1 Cup Cold Press Extra Virgin Olive Oil\u003cbr>\n1 teaspoon Sel Gris\u003cbr>\n1/4 Cup Cocoa Nibs\u003cbr>\nOptional: Honey, Lemon Zest or 1/4 Preserved Lemon (peel only)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1. Rough chop almonds, candied kumquats (*get recipe \u003ca href=\"http://egghunt.typepad.com/egghunt/2006/04/swan_song.html\">by clicking here\u003c/a>), apricots and figs, and place in bowl. Stir to combine.\u003cbr>\n2. Stir in olive oil, salt and minced preserved lemon peel or optional ingredients.\u003cbr>\n3. Just before serving, add cocoa nibs. (This step will preserve some of their crunch, but it's not absolutely necessary.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweet & Salt Relish will keep upwards of a month refrigerated in a non-reactive, tightly sealed container.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I used this kooky garnish for \u003ca href=\"http://www.kqed.org/weblog/food/2007/01/redwood-hill-goat-yogurt-granite-or.jsp\">sorbet\u003c/a>, but it would also be lovely with most any cheese, especially fresh ones like ricotta, chevre or fromage frais. For those of you who like both a savory as well as a sweet breakfast, Sweet & Salt Relish would be delicious with yogurt-- plain, Greek or goat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Enjoy! And if it pertains to you and yours, Happy Pesach!\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/561/sweet-salt-relish-a-perfect-passover-garnish","authors":["5021"],"categories":["bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_138","bayareabites_69","bayareabites_71","bayareabites_137","bayareabites_58"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? 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But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. 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