Shrooms, Chokes, Fruits: Bay Area Chefs on How To Pick Winter Produce, Pt. 3
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Izard","imgSizes":{"kqedFullSize":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-8.jpg","width":500,"height":333}},"fetchFailed":false,"isLoading":false}},"audioPlayerReducer":{"postId":"stream_live"},"authorsReducer":{"stephanie-im":{"type":"authors","id":"5037","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5037","found":true},"name":"Stephanie Hua","firstName":"Stephanie","lastName":"Hua","slug":"stephanie-im","email":"stephanieim1023@gmail.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Stephanie Hua is the creator of \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com\">Lick My Spoon\u003c/a>, a place for all things delicious. So far she has learned that she very much enjoys salted caramel anything, a good soup dumpling is worth a scalded tongue, and there is no room in life for non-fat cheese and crappy chocolate. Also, a barrel of cheese balls never ends well. \r\n\r\nStephanie has been known to choose her company based on how much they can pack it down. Ability to endure cramped quarters, sketchy back alleys, and uncharted paths to seek out that special dish is also a plus in her book. If you fit the criteria, drop a note. You’ll probably get along just fine.\r\n\r\nStephanie's writing and photography have been featured in Fodor's Travel, Wine Enthusiast Magazine, Serious Eats, and Sundance Channel. Follow her on \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Lick-My-Spoon/124276040932644\">Facebook\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/lickmyspoon\">@lickmyspoon\u003c/a>.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/beae4012a280097aebdfcd32bcd3c64d?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"LickMySpoon","facebook":"pages/Lick-My-Spoon/124276040932644","instagram":null,"linkedin":"StephanieHua","sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Stephanie Hua | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/beae4012a280097aebdfcd32bcd3c64d?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/beae4012a280097aebdfcd32bcd3c64d?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/stephanie-im"},"maryladd":{"type":"authors","id":"5092","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5092","found":true},"name":"Mary Ladd","firstName":"Mary","lastName":"Ladd","slug":"maryladd","email":"writereadeat@gmail.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Mary Ladd is a freelance writer and event professional based in her hometown of San Francisco. Her writing has been featured in SF Weekly, Tasting Table, the San Francisco Chronicle and elsewhere. She has shuttled \u003ca href=\"http://sf.eater.com/archives/2009/03/26/eater_map_mr_bourdains_san_francisco_whereabouts.php\">Anthony Bourdain\u003c/a> around town and mastered the art of properly loading a catering van in a flash. Mary has eaten the world’s hottest burger and loves to cook and eat. Follow her at \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/mladdfood\">@mladdfood\u003c/a>","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dab53b49e4e893d0d1e6a7ec6ed29e27?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"mladdfood","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Mary Ladd | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dab53b49e4e893d0d1e6a7ec6ed29e27?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/dab53b49e4e893d0d1e6a7ec6ed29e27?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/maryladd"},"tamarapalmer":{"type":"authors","id":"5111","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5111","found":true},"name":"Tamara Palmer","firstName":"Tamara","lastName":"Palmer","slug":"tamarapalmer","email":"countryfriedsoul@gmail.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":"KQED Contributor","bio":"I'm a professional DJ, freelance writer, recipe developer and independent publisher of zines about music and food. You'll find my byline in a wide range of news, tech and entertainment publications. My first book \u003ci>Country Fried Soul: Adventures in Dirty South Hip-Hop\u003c/i> was published in 2005, and a more personal West Coast anthology called \u003ci>California Love\u003c/i> is planned for 2023.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/27bd98c3b2849cbe3bfec1cfdfa15e33?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["author"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Tamara Palmer | KQED","description":"KQED Contributor","ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/27bd98c3b2849cbe3bfec1cfdfa15e33?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/27bd98c3b2849cbe3bfec1cfdfa15e33?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/tamarapalmer"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_36411":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_36411","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"36411","score":null,"sort":[1323792005000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"dinner-and-q-a-with-chef-stephanie-izard","title":"Dinner and Q & A with Chef Stephanie Izard","publishDate":1323792005,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-8.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-8.jpg\" alt=\"Stephanie Izard\" title=\"Stephanie Izard\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36419\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Stephanie Izard\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef \u003cstrong>Stephanie Izard\u003c/strong>, of Chicago's \u003ca href=\"http://www.girlandthegoat.com/\">Girl & the Goat\u003c/a> made San Francisco the 13th stop on her \u003ca href=\"http://goat-tour.com/\">Goat Tour\u003c/a>. Her debut cookbook, \u003cem>Girl in the Kitchen - How a Top Chef Cooks, Thinks, Shops, Eats & Drinks\u003c/em>, co-authored with friend and food writer \u003cstrong>Heather Shouse\u003c/strong>, was released by Chronicle Books in October. Rather than a typical book tour though (what would be the fun in that?), Izard decided to travel the country, teaming up to cook with chef friends along the way. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-9.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-9.jpg\" alt=\"Chefs Stephanie Izard and Jennifer Biesty\" title=\"Chefs Stephanie Izard and Jennifer Biesty\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36420\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chefs Stephanie Izard and Jennifer Biesty\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stephanie joined fellow \u003cem>Top Chef\u003c/em> alum Chef \u003cstrong>Jennifer Biesty\u003c/strong> last Friday at \u003ca href=\"http://www.scalasbistro.com/\">Scala's Bistro\u003c/a> to cook up a special dinner benefiting \u003ca href=\"http://www.strength.org/\">Share our Strength\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-1.jpg\" alt=\"Cauliflower Panna Cotta, Beet Caviar, Crostini\" title=\"Cauliflower Panna Cotta, Beet Caviar, Crostini\" width=\"500\" height=\"301\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36412\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cauliflower Panna Cotta, Beet Caviar, Crostini\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To start, we had an amuse bouche of creamy \u003cstrong>Cauliflower Panna Cotta\u003c/strong> topped with roasted beet caviar and crostini, and a glass of bubbly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-2.jpg\" alt=\"Seared Scallop, Goat Sausage, Goat XO\" title=\"Seared Scallop, Goat Sausage, Goat XO\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36413\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Seared Scallop, Goat Sausage, Goat XO\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up, Stephanie prepared a \u003cstrong>Seared Scallop with Goat Sausage\u003c/strong>, topped with goat liver aioli and served with maitake mushrooms and winter squash in a smoky goat XO sauce. Airy, crispy pillows of cracker-like \"pizza puffs\" were scattered in the mix and added some unexpected crunch. I remembered this dish from a lunch Stephanie did with Chef Shawn McClain at \u003ca href=\"http://www.arialasvegas.com/dining/sage.aspx\">Sage\u003c/a> in \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/travel/food-wine-all-star-weekend-las-vegas-giveaway/\">Las Vegas\u003c/a> a few months ago. I was happy to have an encore of it. Wine pairing: \u003ca href=\"http://pushbackwinery.com/\">Pushback Sauvignon Blanc\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-4.jpg\" alt=\"Fregula, Cherry Stone Clams, Calamari\" title=\"Fregula, Cherry Stone Clams, Calamari\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36415\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Fregula, Cherry Stone Clams, Calamari\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Second course was a modern paella of sorts if you will, from Jen. A super sweet Cherry Stone Clam stuffed with calamari and a thin slice of Spanish chorizo over fregula studded with plump buttery Castelvetrano olives, almonds, and a shower of saffron threads. Wine pairing: \u003ca href=\"http://www.dumol.com/\">DuMOL Chardonnay\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-5.jpg\" alt=\"Goat Belly, Fennel Puree, Bourbon Buttered Crab\" title=\"Goat Belly, Fennel Puree, Bourbon Buttered Crab\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36416\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Goat Belly, Fennel Puree, Bourbon Buttered Crab\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My favorite dish of the evening was Stephanie's \u003cstrong>Crisp Confit Goat Belly\u003c/strong> over a sweet fennel puree, topped with ribbons of shaved fennel, fine strands of lemon zest, and Bourbon Buttered Crab. The goat belly was crispy, fatty, and tender, and the bourbon buttered crab – seriously? To die for. The richness of this glorious fat-on-fat action was offset nicely by the fresh crunch of the fennel and a hit of acid from some lemon juice. Wine pairing: \u003ca href=\"http://www.fortrossvineyard.com/\">Fort Ross Vineyard Pinot Noir\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-6.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-6.jpg\" alt=\"Chili and Chocolate Braised Wagyu Short Ribs, Parsnip Puree\" title=\"Chili and Chocolate Braised Wagyu Short Ribs, Parsnip Puree\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36417\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chili and Chocolate Braised Wagyu Short Ribs, Parsnip Puree\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jen finished out the savory courses with a hulking \u003cstrong>Chili and Chocolate Braised Wagyu Short Rib\u003c/strong> garnished with pickled pear gremolata and candied fresno chilies over creamy parsnip puree. The chili-chocolate braise imparted a wonderful depth of flavor to the meat, but the unexpected delight were the creative garnishes. The pickled pear gremolata was full of sweet, crunchy, lemony herbaceousness and the brittle candied chilies had snap and heat to them. The parsnip puree was a welcome change to the typical mashed potato. I loved the sweet root veggie flavor and velvety starchiness of it. Definitely something I'll be trying at home this winter.\u003cbr>\nWine pairing: \u003ca href=\"http://www.pahlmeyer.com/\">Jason Pahlmeyer Red Blend\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-7.jpg\" alt=\"Pear, Huckleberry Crepes, Mascarpone\" title=\"Pear, Huckleberry Crepes, Mascarpone\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36418\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scala's pastry chef \u003cstrong>Tim Nugent\u003c/strong>, a \u003cem>Top Chef Just Desserts\u003c/em> alum, prepared our dessert for the evening, a roasted \u003cstrong>Pear with Huckleberry Crepes\u003c/strong> served over a spoonful of mascarpone cheese. Wine pairing: \u003ca href=\"http://www.beringer.com/\">Beringer \"Nightengale\" Botrytised Semillon\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After our meal I had a chance to sit down with Stephanie for a bit and chat. Here's what she had to say about her new book, goats, second restaurant, guilty pleasures, and sriracha.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-3.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Stephanie Izard\" title=\"Chef Stephanie Izard\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36414\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tell us about your new cookbook \u003cem>Girl in the Kitchen\u003c/em>.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Girl in the Kitchen\u003c/em> just came out in October. I wanted it to be very much for the home cook. We're already working on a Girl & the Goat cookbook, which will still be things you can recreate at home, but maybe a little more challenging (because goats are hard to find). But for this one, I got all the ingredients at Whole Foods or my local market, tested all the ingredients in my home kitchen in Chicago, which is like four square feet, and I had to do all the dishes myself, so I kept everything really simple. And I had friends come over and watch me cook so they could ask questions like, \"What is bearding mussels?\" or \"What do you mean you're sweating the vegetables?\" Things that I take for granted or are just second nature, but that maybe home cooks don't know the answer to. So we put little tips and tricks inside the book. And then there are just funny stories. I think it's a fun book and I have a lot of chef friends that obviously aren't going to cook the recipes because they're chefs, but they've sat down on the couch and read the little stories. I think there's a little bit of something for everyone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you have a favorite recipe in there?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are a few recipes that people ask for from Girl & the Goat, like our green bean recipe. People love our green beans. There's a halibut dish with a pork ragu – that's if you wanted to take a little more time to make a few steps. Also, the apple and pork and bacon ragu – so simple, it takes hardly any time to make, but adding the apple into the bacon and pork just makes it tasty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The name of your restaurant comes from your last name, Izard, which is a type of mountain goat that lives in the Pyranees Mountains. Both of your dishes tonight featured some delicious goat. Can you talk a bit about cooking with goat – something not many people are familiar with?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We get 8-10 whole goats a week from \u003ca href=\"http://www.kilgusfarmstead.com/\">Kilgus Farms\u003c/a>, its about 1 1/2 - 2 hours south of the restaurant in Illinois and we actually get our dairy from Justin Kilgus's dad, who owns a dairy farm. It's just amazing goat. We taste-tested goats around Illinois before we picked that one. I had never cooked goat until we were getting ready to open, and I figured I should probably figure out how to cook it. I remember the first event, we got a couple legs and we braised them in cherries and beer and smoked it, and it came out great, and we were like, \"Oh, goat is good!\" and so we've just been playing around with all sorts of stuff. We have ten or so different dishes that we rotate on the menu. You can do everything with goat that you can do with pig, it just takes a little bit more thought because goats aren't blessed with as much fat as pigs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You're working on opening a second restaurant, right?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're opening a diner. It's going to be, well hopefully better than Rutti Tutti Fresh and Fruity breakfast, but it'll be diner. A lot of people say \"diner,\" and then they're like, \"Oh, look at my foie gras burger,\" and well, that's not gonna be at a diner…We bake all our breads in house, we're moving that across the street, so I'll have a bakeshop and then a cookie classroom upstairs, and private dining so people can rent it out for private events. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's your guilty pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I just like ranch dressing a lot. We made ranch dressing the other day for this dish we're doing, but I didn't even call it ranch. I just called it buttermilk dressing, because it's delicious, but nothing like Hidden Valley Ranch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sriracha -- trend or staple?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love sriracha. We have it in our kitchen all the time. Sriracha and sambal. All the time. I would say every dish at The Goat has one or the other, at least a little bit, in it. But I'm a spice wuss, so I can only have a little bit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ADDRESSES\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.girlandthegoat.com/\">Girl & the Goat\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n809 W Randolph St\u003cbr>\n(between Halsted St & Green St)\u003cbr>\nChicago, IL 60607\u003cbr>\n(312) 492-6262\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.scalasbistro.com/\">Scala's Bistro\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n432 Powell St\u003cbr>\n(between Post St & Sutter St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94102\u003cbr>\n(415) 395-8555\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Chef Stephanie Izard cooks up a special dinner with fellow Top Chef alum Chef Jennifer Biesty to promote her new cookbook and raise some money for Share our Strength. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1323762360,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":35,"wordCount":1365},"headData":{"title":"Dinner and Q & A with Chef Stephanie Izard | KQED","description":"Chef Stephanie Izard cooks up a special dinner with fellow Top Chef alum Chef Jennifer Biesty to promote her new cookbook and raise some money for Share our Strength. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Dinner and Q & A with Chef Stephanie Izard","datePublished":"2011-12-13T16:00:05.000Z","dateModified":"2011-12-13T07:46:00.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"36411 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=36411","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/12/13/dinner-and-q-a-with-chef-stephanie-izard/","disqusTitle":"Dinner and Q & A with Chef Stephanie Izard","path":"/bayareabites/36411/dinner-and-q-a-with-chef-stephanie-izard","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-8.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-8.jpg\" alt=\"Stephanie Izard\" title=\"Stephanie Izard\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36419\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Stephanie Izard\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef \u003cstrong>Stephanie Izard\u003c/strong>, of Chicago's \u003ca href=\"http://www.girlandthegoat.com/\">Girl & the Goat\u003c/a> made San Francisco the 13th stop on her \u003ca href=\"http://goat-tour.com/\">Goat Tour\u003c/a>. Her debut cookbook, \u003cem>Girl in the Kitchen - How a Top Chef Cooks, Thinks, Shops, Eats & Drinks\u003c/em>, co-authored with friend and food writer \u003cstrong>Heather Shouse\u003c/strong>, was released by Chronicle Books in October. Rather than a typical book tour though (what would be the fun in that?), Izard decided to travel the country, teaming up to cook with chef friends along the way. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-9.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-9.jpg\" alt=\"Chefs Stephanie Izard and Jennifer Biesty\" title=\"Chefs Stephanie Izard and Jennifer Biesty\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36420\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chefs Stephanie Izard and Jennifer Biesty\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stephanie joined fellow \u003cem>Top Chef\u003c/em> alum Chef \u003cstrong>Jennifer Biesty\u003c/strong> last Friday at \u003ca href=\"http://www.scalasbistro.com/\">Scala's Bistro\u003c/a> to cook up a special dinner benefiting \u003ca href=\"http://www.strength.org/\">Share our Strength\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-1.jpg\" alt=\"Cauliflower Panna Cotta, Beet Caviar, Crostini\" title=\"Cauliflower Panna Cotta, Beet Caviar, Crostini\" width=\"500\" height=\"301\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36412\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Cauliflower Panna Cotta, Beet Caviar, Crostini\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To start, we had an amuse bouche of creamy \u003cstrong>Cauliflower Panna Cotta\u003c/strong> topped with roasted beet caviar and crostini, and a glass of bubbly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-2.jpg\" alt=\"Seared Scallop, Goat Sausage, Goat XO\" title=\"Seared Scallop, Goat Sausage, Goat XO\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36413\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Seared Scallop, Goat Sausage, Goat XO\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Next up, Stephanie prepared a \u003cstrong>Seared Scallop with Goat Sausage\u003c/strong>, topped with goat liver aioli and served with maitake mushrooms and winter squash in a smoky goat XO sauce. Airy, crispy pillows of cracker-like \"pizza puffs\" were scattered in the mix and added some unexpected crunch. I remembered this dish from a lunch Stephanie did with Chef Shawn McClain at \u003ca href=\"http://www.arialasvegas.com/dining/sage.aspx\">Sage\u003c/a> in \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/travel/food-wine-all-star-weekend-las-vegas-giveaway/\">Las Vegas\u003c/a> a few months ago. I was happy to have an encore of it. Wine pairing: \u003ca href=\"http://pushbackwinery.com/\">Pushback Sauvignon Blanc\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-4.jpg\" alt=\"Fregula, Cherry Stone Clams, Calamari\" title=\"Fregula, Cherry Stone Clams, Calamari\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36415\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Fregula, Cherry Stone Clams, Calamari\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Second course was a modern paella of sorts if you will, from Jen. A super sweet Cherry Stone Clam stuffed with calamari and a thin slice of Spanish chorizo over fregula studded with plump buttery Castelvetrano olives, almonds, and a shower of saffron threads. Wine pairing: \u003ca href=\"http://www.dumol.com/\">DuMOL Chardonnay\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-5.jpg\" alt=\"Goat Belly, Fennel Puree, Bourbon Buttered Crab\" title=\"Goat Belly, Fennel Puree, Bourbon Buttered Crab\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36416\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Goat Belly, Fennel Puree, Bourbon Buttered Crab\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My favorite dish of the evening was Stephanie's \u003cstrong>Crisp Confit Goat Belly\u003c/strong> over a sweet fennel puree, topped with ribbons of shaved fennel, fine strands of lemon zest, and Bourbon Buttered Crab. The goat belly was crispy, fatty, and tender, and the bourbon buttered crab – seriously? To die for. The richness of this glorious fat-on-fat action was offset nicely by the fresh crunch of the fennel and a hit of acid from some lemon juice. Wine pairing: \u003ca href=\"http://www.fortrossvineyard.com/\">Fort Ross Vineyard Pinot Noir\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-6.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-6.jpg\" alt=\"Chili and Chocolate Braised Wagyu Short Ribs, Parsnip Puree\" title=\"Chili and Chocolate Braised Wagyu Short Ribs, Parsnip Puree\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36417\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chili and Chocolate Braised Wagyu Short Ribs, Parsnip Puree\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jen finished out the savory courses with a hulking \u003cstrong>Chili and Chocolate Braised Wagyu Short Rib\u003c/strong> garnished with pickled pear gremolata and candied fresno chilies over creamy parsnip puree. The chili-chocolate braise imparted a wonderful depth of flavor to the meat, but the unexpected delight were the creative garnishes. The pickled pear gremolata was full of sweet, crunchy, lemony herbaceousness and the brittle candied chilies had snap and heat to them. The parsnip puree was a welcome change to the typical mashed potato. I loved the sweet root veggie flavor and velvety starchiness of it. Definitely something I'll be trying at home this winter.\u003cbr>\nWine pairing: \u003ca href=\"http://www.pahlmeyer.com/\">Jason Pahlmeyer Red Blend\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-7.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-7.jpg\" alt=\"Pear, Huckleberry Crepes, Mascarpone\" title=\"Pear, Huckleberry Crepes, Mascarpone\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36418\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scala's pastry chef \u003cstrong>Tim Nugent\u003c/strong>, a \u003cem>Top Chef Just Desserts\u003c/em> alum, prepared our dessert for the evening, a roasted \u003cstrong>Pear with Huckleberry Crepes\u003c/strong> served over a spoonful of mascarpone cheese. Wine pairing: \u003ca href=\"http://www.beringer.com/\">Beringer \"Nightengale\" Botrytised Semillon\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After our meal I had a chance to sit down with Stephanie for a bit and chat. Here's what she had to say about her new book, goats, second restaurant, guilty pleasures, and sriracha.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/12/stephanie-izard-girl-in-the-kitchen-stephanie-hua-lick-my-spoon-3.jpg\" alt=\"Chef Stephanie Izard\" title=\"Chef Stephanie Izard\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-36414\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tell us about your new cookbook \u003cem>Girl in the Kitchen\u003c/em>.\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Girl in the Kitchen\u003c/em> just came out in October. I wanted it to be very much for the home cook. We're already working on a Girl & the Goat cookbook, which will still be things you can recreate at home, but maybe a little more challenging (because goats are hard to find). But for this one, I got all the ingredients at Whole Foods or my local market, tested all the ingredients in my home kitchen in Chicago, which is like four square feet, and I had to do all the dishes myself, so I kept everything really simple. And I had friends come over and watch me cook so they could ask questions like, \"What is bearding mussels?\" or \"What do you mean you're sweating the vegetables?\" Things that I take for granted or are just second nature, but that maybe home cooks don't know the answer to. So we put little tips and tricks inside the book. And then there are just funny stories. I think it's a fun book and I have a lot of chef friends that obviously aren't going to cook the recipes because they're chefs, but they've sat down on the couch and read the little stories. I think there's a little bit of something for everyone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you have a favorite recipe in there?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are a few recipes that people ask for from Girl & the Goat, like our green bean recipe. People love our green beans. There's a halibut dish with a pork ragu – that's if you wanted to take a little more time to make a few steps. Also, the apple and pork and bacon ragu – so simple, it takes hardly any time to make, but adding the apple into the bacon and pork just makes it tasty.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The name of your restaurant comes from your last name, Izard, which is a type of mountain goat that lives in the Pyranees Mountains. Both of your dishes tonight featured some delicious goat. Can you talk a bit about cooking with goat – something not many people are familiar with?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We get 8-10 whole goats a week from \u003ca href=\"http://www.kilgusfarmstead.com/\">Kilgus Farms\u003c/a>, its about 1 1/2 - 2 hours south of the restaurant in Illinois and we actually get our dairy from Justin Kilgus's dad, who owns a dairy farm. It's just amazing goat. We taste-tested goats around Illinois before we picked that one. I had never cooked goat until we were getting ready to open, and I figured I should probably figure out how to cook it. I remember the first event, we got a couple legs and we braised them in cherries and beer and smoked it, and it came out great, and we were like, \"Oh, goat is good!\" and so we've just been playing around with all sorts of stuff. We have ten or so different dishes that we rotate on the menu. You can do everything with goat that you can do with pig, it just takes a little bit more thought because goats aren't blessed with as much fat as pigs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>You're working on opening a second restaurant, right?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're opening a diner. It's going to be, well hopefully better than Rutti Tutti Fresh and Fruity breakfast, but it'll be diner. A lot of people say \"diner,\" and then they're like, \"Oh, look at my foie gras burger,\" and well, that's not gonna be at a diner…We bake all our breads in house, we're moving that across the street, so I'll have a bakeshop and then a cookie classroom upstairs, and private dining so people can rent it out for private events. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What's your guilty pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I just like ranch dressing a lot. We made ranch dressing the other day for this dish we're doing, but I didn't even call it ranch. I just called it buttermilk dressing, because it's delicious, but nothing like Hidden Valley Ranch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sriracha -- trend or staple?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I love sriracha. We have it in our kitchen all the time. Sriracha and sambal. All the time. I would say every dish at The Goat has one or the other, at least a little bit, in it. But I'm a spice wuss, so I can only have a little bit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>ADDRESSES\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.girlandthegoat.com/\">Girl & the Goat\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n809 W Randolph St\u003cbr>\n(between Halsted St & Green St)\u003cbr>\nChicago, IL 60607\u003cbr>\n(312) 492-6262\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.scalasbistro.com/\">Scala's Bistro\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n432 Powell St\u003cbr>\n(between Post St & Sutter St)\u003cbr>\nSan Francisco, CA 94102\u003cbr>\n(415) 395-8555\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/36411/dinner-and-q-a-with-chef-stephanie-izard","authors":["5037"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_50"],"tags":["bayareabites_14758","bayareabites_9980","bayareabites_9981","bayareabites_9018","bayareabites_9014","bayareabites_9982","bayareabites_9979"],"featImg":"bayareabites_36419","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_23757":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_23757","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"23757","score":null,"sort":[1298664714000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"food-secrets-of-chef-jennifer-biesty","title":"Food Secrets of Chef Jennifer Biesty","publishDate":1298664714,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/jen-biesty500.jpg\" alt=\"chef Jen Biesty\" title=\"chef Jen Biesty\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23759\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chef Jennifer Biesty. Photo credit: Cris Molina\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/jenbiesty\">Chef Jennifer Biesty\u003c/a> rocketed to national fame when she was a cheftestant on \u003ca href=\"http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef/jennifer-biesty\">Season 4 of Top Chef\u003c/a> and a \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/rising_stars/2007/sf/html/bio_j_biesty.shtml\">Star Chefs Rising Star\u003c/a> in 2007. She is currently the Executive Chef of \u003ca href=\"http://www.scalasbistro.com/\">Scala's Bistro\u003c/a> and the Sir Francis Drake Hotel in San Francisco. Biesty’s Bay Area culinary career developed under Loretta Keller, the Chef/Owner of the now shuttered Bizou Restaurant and current \u003ca href=\"http://www.coco500.com/\">COCO500\u003c/a>. Biesty cooked with Keller at benefit dinner events for The James Beard House, The Master’s of \u003ca href=\"http://taste.strength.org/site/PageServer?pagename=TOTN_homepage\">Food & Wine and Taste of the Nation\u003c/a>. She also worked at \u003ca href=\"http://www.jardiniere.com/\">Jardinière\u003c/a>, with \u003ca href=\"http://www.tracidesjardins.com/\">Chef Traci des Jardins\u003c/a>. Biesty trained at the CIA Hyde Park at the young age of eighteen, and worked at \u003ca href=\"http://www.aquavit.org/restaurant/newyork/index.asp\">NYC’s Aquavit\u003c/a> and March restaurants, respectively. She worked in London at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.rivercafe.co.uk/rc_page.php\">River Café\u003c/a>, alongside uber-talent chefs \u003ca href=\"http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/recipes/3340503/Ruth-Rogers-a-woman-for-all-seasons.html\">Ruth Rodgers\u003c/a>, Rose Gray and \u003ca href=\"http://www.jamieoliver.com/\">Jamie Oliver\u003c/a>. The Brooklyn native (“where the food is all about the ingredients”) lives in San Francisco with her girlfriend, Sara Delman. Biesty and Delman met at COCO500. \u003cem>Bay Area Bites\u003c/em> caught up with Biesty to talk about her favorite food and drink spots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where do you live?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWe live in the Potrero foothills, which is a nice way of saying “on the wrong side of the mission tracks.” Sara and I have been together for more than three years and love living in the Mission. There are so many great restaurants and shops. And it’s such a colorful neighborhood!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where do you like to shop for food? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.rainbow.coop/\">Rainbow Grocery\u003c/a>: The produce there far surpasses any other market, and to stay eco-friendly, you can refill oil, vinegar, soap, lotions, honey, sugar, pasta, you name it. It’s great.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Rainbow doesn’t offer meat, so for that I go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.avedanos.com/\">Avedano’s\u003c/a> meats in Bernal Heights. It’s a beloved neighborhood butcher shop that has great tacos and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/06/05/farr-out-bay-area-eats-with-ryan-and-cesalee-farr-of-4505-meats/\">Ryan Farr’s\u003c/a> hot dogs! I like that is more Euro-style and you create a relationship with your shopkeepers and merchants. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/richmond-new-may-wah-supermarket-san-francisco\">New May Wah market\u003c/a> on Clement! In the heart of a little Chinatown, it’s just too fun to go there. They offer things like bone-in pork belly, whole fish, frogs, bulk spices, all the Asian sauces you could ask for and Asian beer, wine and sake. And when you need a bit of agar agar or basil seeds they have it all too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://sfgsa.org/index.aspx?page=1058\">Alemany Farmers’ Market\u003c/a>: It feels like community. It is cheap and has great variety. Fresh flowers that are so affordable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where do you go on your nights off?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a>. Amazing space and delicious cocktails. I love the Scotch egg there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.zerozerosf.com/\">Zero Zero\u003c/a> is a fun place to go for cocktails and crudo -- I love the yuzu sidecar. Oh, and the pizza and soft–serve there is another one of my guilty pleasures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.hogandrocks.com/\">Hog and Rocks\u003c/a> is another great place -- a big selection of oysters from the east coast, which reminds me of home!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cstrong>How about your favorite local Mom & Pop joints?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/la-torta-gorda-san-francisco\">Torta Gorda\u003c/a>: on 24th for a good simple sandwich or some Puebla specialties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eatatplow.com/\">Plow\u003c/a>: has the best fried egg sandwich, although I wouldn’t call them mom and pop because the couple that own it are so young but it is a great breakfast and lunch place in sunny Potrero Hill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://haltunsf.com/\">Haltun Mayan Cuisine\u003c/a>: for poc-chuc de puerco. Great food and reasonable. They have a good happy hour deal. I love the Panuchos & salbutos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where do you go for date night?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.universalcafe.net/\">Universal Café\u003c/a>: I was the chef there in 2003 and love the feel of that little restaurant. Sara and I like to go there often because they change the menu often but they also have things you can count on, like a delicious flatbread and a nice charred steak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/ino-sushi-san-francisco\">Ino Sushi\u003c/a>. It’s in the Japantown mall. Great fried smelt roll and everything else is good too!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.blueplatesf.com/\">Blue Plate\u003c/a> is always fantastic for date night. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is your guiltiest local food pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI crave \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poutine\">poutine\u003c/a>, but since luckily you can’t really get it around here I just make it for family meal at my restaurant. I love tacos and taco trucks! I frequent the one on Treat and 23rd -- Gallo Giro. Also, the tempura at \u003ca href=\"http://www.sanraku.com/sanraku.html\">Sanruku\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Any news on projects we should know about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHonestly being the chef of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sirfrancisdrake.com/\">Sir Francis Drake Hotel\u003c/a> is all consuming and is a big enough project for me currently. But I do have plans on the back burner to be reveled at a later date! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’ll stay tuned.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Chef Jennifer Biesty rocketed to national fame when she was a cheftestant on Season 4 of Top Chef and a Star Chefs Rising Star in 2007. She is currently the Executive Chef of Scala's Bistro and the Sir Francis Drake Hotel in San Francisco. Bay Area Bites caught up with Biesty to talk about her favorite food and drink spots.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1298665076,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":21,"wordCount":798},"headData":{"title":"Food Secrets of Chef Jennifer Biesty | KQED","description":"Chef Jennifer Biesty rocketed to national fame when she was a cheftestant on Season 4 of Top Chef and a Star Chefs Rising Star in 2007. She is currently the Executive Chef of Scala's Bistro and the Sir Francis Drake Hotel in San Francisco. Bay Area Bites caught up with Biesty to talk about her favorite food and drink spots.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Food Secrets of Chef Jennifer Biesty","datePublished":"2011-02-25T20:11:54.000Z","dateModified":"2011-02-25T20:17:56.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"23757 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=23757","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/02/25/food-secrets-of-chef-jennifer-biesty/","disqusTitle":"Food Secrets of Chef Jennifer Biesty","path":"/bayareabites/23757/food-secrets-of-chef-jennifer-biesty","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/jen-biesty500.jpg\" alt=\"chef Jen Biesty\" title=\"chef Jen Biesty\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23759\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Chef Jennifer Biesty. Photo credit: Cris Molina\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://twitter.com/jenbiesty\">Chef Jennifer Biesty\u003c/a> rocketed to national fame when she was a cheftestant on \u003ca href=\"http://www.bravotv.com/top-chef/jennifer-biesty\">Season 4 of Top Chef\u003c/a> and a \u003ca href=\"http://www.starchefs.com/chefs/rising_stars/2007/sf/html/bio_j_biesty.shtml\">Star Chefs Rising Star\u003c/a> in 2007. She is currently the Executive Chef of \u003ca href=\"http://www.scalasbistro.com/\">Scala's Bistro\u003c/a> and the Sir Francis Drake Hotel in San Francisco. Biesty’s Bay Area culinary career developed under Loretta Keller, the Chef/Owner of the now shuttered Bizou Restaurant and current \u003ca href=\"http://www.coco500.com/\">COCO500\u003c/a>. Biesty cooked with Keller at benefit dinner events for The James Beard House, The Master’s of \u003ca href=\"http://taste.strength.org/site/PageServer?pagename=TOTN_homepage\">Food & Wine and Taste of the Nation\u003c/a>. She also worked at \u003ca href=\"http://www.jardiniere.com/\">Jardinière\u003c/a>, with \u003ca href=\"http://www.tracidesjardins.com/\">Chef Traci des Jardins\u003c/a>. Biesty trained at the CIA Hyde Park at the young age of eighteen, and worked at \u003ca href=\"http://www.aquavit.org/restaurant/newyork/index.asp\">NYC’s Aquavit\u003c/a> and March restaurants, respectively. She worked in London at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.rivercafe.co.uk/rc_page.php\">River Café\u003c/a>, alongside uber-talent chefs \u003ca href=\"http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/recipes/3340503/Ruth-Rogers-a-woman-for-all-seasons.html\">Ruth Rodgers\u003c/a>, Rose Gray and \u003ca href=\"http://www.jamieoliver.com/\">Jamie Oliver\u003c/a>. The Brooklyn native (“where the food is all about the ingredients”) lives in San Francisco with her girlfriend, Sara Delman. Biesty and Delman met at COCO500. \u003cem>Bay Area Bites\u003c/em> caught up with Biesty to talk about her favorite food and drink spots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where do you live?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nWe live in the Potrero foothills, which is a nice way of saying “on the wrong side of the mission tracks.” Sara and I have been together for more than three years and love living in the Mission. There are so many great restaurants and shops. And it’s such a colorful neighborhood!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where do you like to shop for food? \u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.rainbow.coop/\">Rainbow Grocery\u003c/a>: The produce there far surpasses any other market, and to stay eco-friendly, you can refill oil, vinegar, soap, lotions, honey, sugar, pasta, you name it. It’s great.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Rainbow doesn’t offer meat, so for that I go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.avedanos.com/\">Avedano’s\u003c/a> meats in Bernal Heights. It’s a beloved neighborhood butcher shop that has great tacos and \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/06/05/farr-out-bay-area-eats-with-ryan-and-cesalee-farr-of-4505-meats/\">Ryan Farr’s\u003c/a> hot dogs! I like that is more Euro-style and you create a relationship with your shopkeepers and merchants. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/richmond-new-may-wah-supermarket-san-francisco\">New May Wah market\u003c/a> on Clement! In the heart of a little Chinatown, it’s just too fun to go there. They offer things like bone-in pork belly, whole fish, frogs, bulk spices, all the Asian sauces you could ask for and Asian beer, wine and sake. And when you need a bit of agar agar or basil seeds they have it all too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://sfgsa.org/index.aspx?page=1058\">Alemany Farmers’ Market\u003c/a>: It feels like community. It is cheap and has great variety. Fresh flowers that are so affordable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where do you go on your nights off?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.baragricole.com/\">Bar Agricole\u003c/a>. Amazing space and delicious cocktails. I love the Scotch egg there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.zerozerosf.com/\">Zero Zero\u003c/a> is a fun place to go for cocktails and crudo -- I love the yuzu sidecar. Oh, and the pizza and soft–serve there is another one of my guilty pleasures.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.hogandrocks.com/\">Hog and Rocks\u003c/a> is another great place -- a big selection of oysters from the east coast, which reminds me of home!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cstrong>How about your favorite local Mom & Pop joints?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/la-torta-gorda-san-francisco\">Torta Gorda\u003c/a>: on 24th for a good simple sandwich or some Puebla specialties.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eatatplow.com/\">Plow\u003c/a>: has the best fried egg sandwich, although I wouldn’t call them mom and pop because the couple that own it are so young but it is a great breakfast and lunch place in sunny Potrero Hill.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://haltunsf.com/\">Haltun Mayan Cuisine\u003c/a>: for poc-chuc de puerco. Great food and reasonable. They have a good happy hour deal. I love the Panuchos & salbutos.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Where do you go for date night?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://www.universalcafe.net/\">Universal Café\u003c/a>: I was the chef there in 2003 and love the feel of that little restaurant. Sara and I like to go there often because they change the menu often but they also have things you can count on, like a delicious flatbread and a nice charred steak.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/ino-sushi-san-francisco\">Ino Sushi\u003c/a>. It’s in the Japantown mall. Great fried smelt roll and everything else is good too!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Oh, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.blueplatesf.com/\">Blue Plate\u003c/a> is always fantastic for date night. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What is your guiltiest local food pleasure?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nI crave \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poutine\">poutine\u003c/a>, but since luckily you can’t really get it around here I just make it for family meal at my restaurant. I love tacos and taco trucks! I frequent the one on Treat and 23rd -- Gallo Giro. Also, the tempura at \u003ca href=\"http://www.sanraku.com/sanraku.html\">Sanruku\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Any news on projects we should know about?\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nHonestly being the chef of the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sirfrancisdrake.com/\">Sir Francis Drake Hotel\u003c/a> is all consuming and is a big enough project for me currently. But I do have plans on the back burner to be reveled at a later date! \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We’ll stay tuned.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/23757/food-secrets-of-chef-jennifer-biesty","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_9020","bayareabites_9022","bayareabites_9028","bayareabites_9024","bayareabites_9027","bayareabites_9018","bayareabites_9021","bayareabites_1236","bayareabites_9029","bayareabites_9014","bayareabites_9030","bayareabites_9019","bayareabites_209","bayareabites_9026","bayareabites_9025","bayareabites_9023"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_23683":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_23683","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"23683","score":null,"sort":[1298476845000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"shrooms-chokes-fruits-bay-area-chefs-on-how-to-pick-winter-produce-pt-3","title":"Shrooms, Chokes, Fruits: Bay Area Chefs on How To Pick Winter Produce, Pt. 3","publishDate":1298476845,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23710\" title=\"Jen Biesty\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/jenbiesty500.jpg\" alt=\"Jen Biesty\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jen Biesty. Photo by Tamara Palmer\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In our continuing quest to learn more vital yet elusive tips on how to best select produce for flavor and longevity, we turned to chef Jen Biesty of \u003ca href=\"http://www.scalasbistro.com\">Scala’s Bistro\u003c/a> inside San Francisco’s Sir Francis Drake Hotel. When we arrived at her busy kitchen one afternoon, she had set out a platter of beautiful dark red fruit. Even though it’s February and well past stone fruit season, we found ourselves asking if she had somehow managed to pick some plums for us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23706\" title=\"Jen Biesty holding an Arkansas Black apple\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/biestyapple500.jpg\" alt=\"Jen Biesty holding an Arkansas Black apple\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jen Biesty holding an Arkansas Black apple. Photo by Tamara Palmer\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“They’re Arkansas Black apples!” replied the Top Chef alum. “I love these, they remind me of the apples in Snow White.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“You want an apple that’s firm, with a nice color,” she advised. “They all look a little bit different and they’re not just homogenized. If you can see the pollen or dirt from the tree then you know it is really fresh and just picked within a week or a few days.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Meat is traditionally thought of when pairing apples with a protein, but Biesty has found that they go great with fish as well; she likes to shave them raw into a salad with chestnut and parsley, an accompaniment for sea bass. She picks the Arkansas Black apples in particular up at the Alemany Farmers Market in San Francisco from Chimayo Farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23708\" title=\"Eric Tucker holding a Chanterelle mushroom\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/erictuckermushrooms500.jpg\" alt=\"Eric Tucker holding a Chanterelle mushroom\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Eric Tucker holding a Chanterelle mushroom. Photo by Tamara Palmer\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Eric Tucker of \u003ca href=\"http://www.millenniumrestaurant.com/\">Millennium Restaurant\u003c/a>, a venerable temple to creative vegetarian cooking in San Francisco, was kind enough to let us tag along with him on a Saturday morning visit to the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, where he was leading a small group who had signed up for a beer-themed cooking class in honor of the conclusion of SF Beer Week. No matter the theme of a particular course, Tucker will meet students the day before to wander the market and decide on some ideas and direction for the next day’s session, a hands-on class that includes sitting down to a family-style meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He first led the class to \u003ca href=\"http://www.farwestfungi.com\">Far West Fungi\u003c/a>, which has a permanent stall inside the building. Tucker snapped up some beautiful black trumpets, chanterelles, and maitakes. Mushrooms are a staple at Millennium for their earthy, meaty qualities, whether it’s a sauce of black trumpets in a red wine reduction or oyster mushrooms simply fried. Tucker’s advice for selecting shrooms focuses on what you should avoid, which is just as valuable to know as what to pick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“I’m leery of mushrooms that look too waterlogged or dark. Those you have to dry or use very quickly,” he said. “If you’re buying portabellas and the gills are really present and the caps are really open, you need to use those quicker than ones with tighter caps, which will have more life.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Or look at these,” he noted, pointing to some mostly beige Lion’s Mane mushrooms. “When they start to turn red, I associate that with some possible bacterial growth or breakdown.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23711\" title=\"Sunchokes. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/sunchokes500.jpg\" alt=\"Sunchokes. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sunchokes. Photo by Tamara Palmer\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ducked outside in the pouring rain to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.tierravegetables.com\">Tierra Vegetables\u003c/a> stand. Tucker started rifling through what we first thought were oversized knots of ginger root, but were actually sunchokes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You want the ones that are not caked in dirt, because they’re hard to clean and peel,” he explained, “And you want the larger ones.” While many like to work with raw sunchokes (shaving them thinly for a salad, for example), Tucker likes to slow bake them with white wine, olive oil, and herbs, the combination making a sort of guilt-free confit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23709\" title=\"Golden Nuggets. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/goldennuggets500.jpg\" alt=\"Golden Nuggets. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Golden Nuggets. Photo by Tamara Palmer\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We finished at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.blossombluff.com\">Blossom Bluff Orchards\u003c/a> stand, where some weird, nubbly looking mandarin oranges were about to be the subject of Tucker’s excitement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“These are great for the zest!” he exclaimed of the variety, called Golden Nuggets. He likes to use them in savory applications, and for his beer class imagined they’d pair well with the bitterness of the hops in the different beer varieties. These can be a little difficult to pick. If they’re nubbier and heavier, they’ve got more juice, but they’ve also got thicker and more developed cell walls, so there’s a bit of a tradeoff when it comes to the insides.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23705\" title=\"Aaron London\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/aaronlondon300.jpg\" alt=\"Aaron London\" width=\"300\" height=\"451\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Aaron London. Photo courtesy of Ubuntu\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s still a good time of year for carrots, and chef Aaron London of Napa’s notable vegetarian restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.ubuntunapa.com/restaurant\">Ubuntu\u003c/a> has some valuable advice and a colorful, flavorful recipe to share. No matter what color or size your carrots are, he notes that the pigmentation should be deep and plush. Look for strong, rigid stems and leaves with some sheen to them that blossom out and don’t lay flat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23707\" title=\"carrots\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/carrots500.jpg\" alt=\"carrots\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Carrots. Photo by Tamara Palmer\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“If you’re at a Farmers' Market,” London says, “dirt is a good thing to see on a carrot. If it has dirt on it and any moisture, it will degrade and diminish very rapidly, meaning that if you see a soil covered carrot with all of the above attributes, then you’re really looking good because it must be super fresh. I know this sounds redundant, but it should smell like a carrot. Take that in mind and try hard to find a carrot that actually smells like one, and you will have found a winner.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tender White Satin and Crisp Purple Haze Carrot Salad With Strawberry Spinach, Raspberries, and Crushed Herb Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By Chef Aaron London, Ubuntu Restaurant\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 6\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large carrots, peeled and sliced thin\u003cbr>\nPeel of 1/4 of an orange\u003cbr>\n1/4 onion, sliced thinly\u003cbr>\n2 oranges\u003cbr>\n1 Tbs. sugar\u003cbr>\nMixed color baby carrots, carrot tops reserved for cooking and for garnish\u003cbr>\n1/2 pint raspberries\u003cbr>\n1 qt. picked greens, such as arugula, chervil, celery leaf, and mint\u003cbr>\n1 cup grapeseed oil\u003cbr>\n2 Tbs. crushed toasted hazelnuts\u003cbr>\n1 big handful of baby spinach\u003cbr>\n3 cloves crushed garlic\u003cbr>\n1 sprig rosemary\u003cbr>\nSalt\u003cbr>\n1Tbs. sugar\u003cbr>\nEdible flowers, or garnish of choice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the carrot puree:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweat the onion, sliced large carrot, and orange peel in a little grapeseed oil with salt in a heavy bottomed pot until very tender. Add 1 pint of water and reduce it by half.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the carrots into a blender and blend on high until smooth and the mixture blends easily. At the end, drizzle in a thin stream of 1tsp. of oil to emulsify it and make it creamy and fluffy. Reserve puree.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the tender carrots:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wash the carrots and tops very well. Clean the tops off of all the baby carrots, and reserve some of the smaller leaves on the herb in ice water for garnish. Place the rest of the tops in the bottom of a roasting pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lay 2/3 of the carrots on the carrot tops in 1-2 even layers, followed by the garlic, whole sprig rosemary, peel and juice of 1 orange, the sugar, enough water to cover and a pinch of salt. Cover with tin foil and cook until tender, about an hour, at 350. Once they are done, let them rest in their liquid until it is time to plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the crisp carrots:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the remaining carrots and cut them into interesting shapes as well as shave on a mandolin. Place the carrots them directly into ice water so they crisp up and tork (twist into natural shapes).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the vinaigrette:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the grapeseed oil in the freezer for 30 minutes before you need to use it. Blanch and shock the quart of “rabbit greens” (greens of choice as listed above) and place them in the blender with the oil and spin until smooth. Chill immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the raspberries into a mixing bowl and lightly fork crush them with the micro-planed zest of 1 orange, a pinch of salt and a twist of pepper. Add in the hazelnuts and ½ cup of the green oil and let marinate for half an hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>To finish:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spread the carrot puree nice and wide on the bottom of 6 plates or wide bowls. The puree should be just above room temperature. Pull the tender carrots out of their cooking liquid and toss them in a bowl with the juice of one orange and a spoonful of the green oil and place them artfully into the puree.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drain all of the water off of the raw carrots and toss them in a bowl with some of the green oil and a pinch of salt and dance them though the tender carrots, building as much height as possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spoon the chunky vinaigrette evenly over all of the dishes, making sure to stir it often in order to insure even dispersion. To finish each dish, toss whatever spinaches and other garnishes with the lightest drop of oil, a pinch of salt and weave the leaves and edible flowers throughout the plates so it looks like their growing out.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Tamara Palmer gets some expert winter produce advice from Jen Biesty of Scala’s Bistro, Eric Tucker of Millennium Restaurant and Aaron London of Ubuntu.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1551230039,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":43,"wordCount":1570},"headData":{"title":"Shrooms, Chokes, Fruits: Bay Area Chefs on How To Pick Winter Produce, Pt. 3 | KQED","description":"Tamara Palmer gets some expert winter produce advice from Jen Biesty of Scala’s Bistro, Eric Tucker of Millennium Restaurant and Aaron London of Ubuntu.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Shrooms, Chokes, Fruits: Bay Area Chefs on How To Pick Winter Produce, Pt. 3","datePublished":"2011-02-23T16:00:45.000Z","dateModified":"2019-02-27T01:13:59.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"23683 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=23683","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/02/23/shrooms-chokes-fruits-bay-area-chefs-on-how-to-pick-winter-produce-pt-3/","disqusTitle":"Shrooms, Chokes, Fruits: Bay Area Chefs on How To Pick Winter Produce, Pt. 3","path":"/bayareabites/23683/shrooms-chokes-fruits-bay-area-chefs-on-how-to-pick-winter-produce-pt-3","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23710\" title=\"Jen Biesty\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/jenbiesty500.jpg\" alt=\"Jen Biesty\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jen Biesty. Photo by Tamara Palmer\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In our continuing quest to learn more vital yet elusive tips on how to best select produce for flavor and longevity, we turned to chef Jen Biesty of \u003ca href=\"http://www.scalasbistro.com\">Scala’s Bistro\u003c/a> inside San Francisco’s Sir Francis Drake Hotel. When we arrived at her busy kitchen one afternoon, she had set out a platter of beautiful dark red fruit. Even though it’s February and well past stone fruit season, we found ourselves asking if she had somehow managed to pick some plums for us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23706\" title=\"Jen Biesty holding an Arkansas Black apple\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/biestyapple500.jpg\" alt=\"Jen Biesty holding an Arkansas Black apple\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Jen Biesty holding an Arkansas Black apple. Photo by Tamara Palmer\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“They’re Arkansas Black apples!” replied the Top Chef alum. “I love these, they remind me of the apples in Snow White.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“You want an apple that’s firm, with a nice color,” she advised. “They all look a little bit different and they’re not just homogenized. If you can see the pollen or dirt from the tree then you know it is really fresh and just picked within a week or a few days.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Meat is traditionally thought of when pairing apples with a protein, but Biesty has found that they go great with fish as well; she likes to shave them raw into a salad with chestnut and parsley, an accompaniment for sea bass. She picks the Arkansas Black apples in particular up at the Alemany Farmers Market in San Francisco from Chimayo Farms.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23708\" title=\"Eric Tucker holding a Chanterelle mushroom\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/erictuckermushrooms500.jpg\" alt=\"Eric Tucker holding a Chanterelle mushroom\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Eric Tucker holding a Chanterelle mushroom. Photo by Tamara Palmer\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef Eric Tucker of \u003ca href=\"http://www.millenniumrestaurant.com/\">Millennium Restaurant\u003c/a>, a venerable temple to creative vegetarian cooking in San Francisco, was kind enough to let us tag along with him on a Saturday morning visit to the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market, where he was leading a small group who had signed up for a beer-themed cooking class in honor of the conclusion of SF Beer Week. No matter the theme of a particular course, Tucker will meet students the day before to wander the market and decide on some ideas and direction for the next day’s session, a hands-on class that includes sitting down to a family-style meal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He first led the class to \u003ca href=\"http://www.farwestfungi.com\">Far West Fungi\u003c/a>, which has a permanent stall inside the building. Tucker snapped up some beautiful black trumpets, chanterelles, and maitakes. Mushrooms are a staple at Millennium for their earthy, meaty qualities, whether it’s a sauce of black trumpets in a red wine reduction or oyster mushrooms simply fried. Tucker’s advice for selecting shrooms focuses on what you should avoid, which is just as valuable to know as what to pick.\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“I’m leery of mushrooms that look too waterlogged or dark. Those you have to dry or use very quickly,” he said. “If you’re buying portabellas and the gills are really present and the caps are really open, you need to use those quicker than ones with tighter caps, which will have more life.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“Or look at these,” he noted, pointing to some mostly beige Lion’s Mane mushrooms. “When they start to turn red, I associate that with some possible bacterial growth or breakdown.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23711\" title=\"Sunchokes. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/sunchokes500.jpg\" alt=\"Sunchokes. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sunchokes. Photo by Tamara Palmer\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We ducked outside in the pouring rain to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.tierravegetables.com\">Tierra Vegetables\u003c/a> stand. Tucker started rifling through what we first thought were oversized knots of ginger root, but were actually sunchokes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“You want the ones that are not caked in dirt, because they’re hard to clean and peel,” he explained, “And you want the larger ones.” While many like to work with raw sunchokes (shaving them thinly for a salad, for example), Tucker likes to slow bake them with white wine, olive oil, and herbs, the combination making a sort of guilt-free confit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23709\" title=\"Golden Nuggets. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/goldennuggets500.jpg\" alt=\"Golden Nuggets. Photo by Tamara Palmer\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Golden Nuggets. Photo by Tamara Palmer\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We finished at the \u003ca href=\"http://www.blossombluff.com\">Blossom Bluff Orchards\u003c/a> stand, where some weird, nubbly looking mandarin oranges were about to be the subject of Tucker’s excitement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>“These are great for the zest!” he exclaimed of the variety, called Golden Nuggets. He likes to use them in savory applications, and for his beer class imagined they’d pair well with the bitterness of the hops in the different beer varieties. These can be a little difficult to pick. If they’re nubbier and heavier, they’ve got more juice, but they’ve also got thicker and more developed cell walls, so there’s a bit of a tradeoff when it comes to the insides.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23705\" title=\"Aaron London\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/aaronlondon300.jpg\" alt=\"Aaron London\" width=\"300\" height=\"451\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Aaron London. Photo courtesy of Ubuntu\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It’s still a good time of year for carrots, and chef Aaron London of Napa’s notable vegetarian restaurant \u003ca href=\"http://www.ubuntunapa.com/restaurant\">Ubuntu\u003c/a> has some valuable advice and a colorful, flavorful recipe to share. No matter what color or size your carrots are, he notes that the pigmentation should be deep and plush. Look for strong, rigid stems and leaves with some sheen to them that blossom out and don’t lay flat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-23707\" title=\"carrots\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/02/carrots500.jpg\" alt=\"carrots\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\">\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Carrots. Photo by Tamara Palmer\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>“If you’re at a Farmers' Market,” London says, “dirt is a good thing to see on a carrot. If it has dirt on it and any moisture, it will degrade and diminish very rapidly, meaning that if you see a soil covered carrot with all of the above attributes, then you’re really looking good because it must be super fresh. I know this sounds redundant, but it should smell like a carrot. Take that in mind and try hard to find a carrot that actually smells like one, and you will have found a winner.”\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tender White Satin and Crisp Purple Haze Carrot Salad With Strawberry Spinach, Raspberries, and Crushed Herb Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>By Chef Aaron London, Ubuntu Restaurant\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Serves:\u003c/strong> 6\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large carrots, peeled and sliced thin\u003cbr>\nPeel of 1/4 of an orange\u003cbr>\n1/4 onion, sliced thinly\u003cbr>\n2 oranges\u003cbr>\n1 Tbs. sugar\u003cbr>\nMixed color baby carrots, carrot tops reserved for cooking and for garnish\u003cbr>\n1/2 pint raspberries\u003cbr>\n1 qt. picked greens, such as arugula, chervil, celery leaf, and mint\u003cbr>\n1 cup grapeseed oil\u003cbr>\n2 Tbs. crushed toasted hazelnuts\u003cbr>\n1 big handful of baby spinach\u003cbr>\n3 cloves crushed garlic\u003cbr>\n1 sprig rosemary\u003cbr>\nSalt\u003cbr>\n1Tbs. sugar\u003cbr>\nEdible flowers, or garnish of choice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the carrot puree:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sweat the onion, sliced large carrot, and orange peel in a little grapeseed oil with salt in a heavy bottomed pot until very tender. Add 1 pint of water and reduce it by half.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the carrots into a blender and blend on high until smooth and the mixture blends easily. At the end, drizzle in a thin stream of 1tsp. of oil to emulsify it and make it creamy and fluffy. Reserve puree.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the tender carrots:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wash the carrots and tops very well. Clean the tops off of all the baby carrots, and reserve some of the smaller leaves on the herb in ice water for garnish. Place the rest of the tops in the bottom of a roasting pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lay 2/3 of the carrots on the carrot tops in 1-2 even layers, followed by the garlic, whole sprig rosemary, peel and juice of 1 orange, the sugar, enough water to cover and a pinch of salt. Cover with tin foil and cook until tender, about an hour, at 350. Once they are done, let them rest in their liquid until it is time to plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the crisp carrots:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take the remaining carrots and cut them into interesting shapes as well as shave on a mandolin. Place the carrots them directly into ice water so they crisp up and tork (twist into natural shapes).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>For the vinaigrette:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the grapeseed oil in the freezer for 30 minutes before you need to use it. Blanch and shock the quart of “rabbit greens” (greens of choice as listed above) and place them in the blender with the oil and spin until smooth. Chill immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the raspberries into a mixing bowl and lightly fork crush them with the micro-planed zest of 1 orange, a pinch of salt and a twist of pepper. Add in the hazelnuts and ½ cup of the green oil and let marinate for half an hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>To finish:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spread the carrot puree nice and wide on the bottom of 6 plates or wide bowls. The puree should be just above room temperature. Pull the tender carrots out of their cooking liquid and toss them in a bowl with the juice of one orange and a spoonful of the green oil and place them artfully into the puree.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drain all of the water off of the raw carrots and toss them in a bowl with some of the green oil and a pinch of salt and dance them though the tender carrots, building as much height as possible.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spoon the chunky vinaigrette evenly over all of the dishes, making sure to stir it often in order to insure even dispersion. To finish each dish, toss whatever spinaches and other garnishes with the lightest drop of oil, a pinch of salt and weave the leaves and edible flowers throughout the plates so it looks like their growing out.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/23683/shrooms-chokes-fruits-bay-area-chefs-on-how-to-pick-winter-produce-pt-3","authors":["5111"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_95"],"tags":["bayareabites_16334","bayareabites_667","bayareabites_9014","bayareabites_9016","bayareabites_2105","bayareabites_16288","bayareabites_16284"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. Is it the officers, or the public they've sworn to serve?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/On-Our-Watch-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"On Our Watch from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/onourwatch","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"1"},"link":"/podcasts/onourwatch","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1567098962","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM2MC9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbD9zYz1nb29nbGVwb2RjYXN0cw","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/onourwatch","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0OLWoyizopu6tY1XiuX70x","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/On-Our-Watch-p1436229/","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/show/on-our-watch","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510360/podcast.xml"}},"on-the-media":{"id":"on-the-media","title":"On The Media","info":"Our weekly podcast explores how the media 'sausage' is made, casts an incisive eye on fluctuations in the marketplace of ideas, and examines threats to the freedom of information and expression in America and abroad. 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