How Soviet Kitchens Became Hotbeds Of Dissent And Culture
How Russia's Shared Kitchens Helped Shape Soviet Politics
What Pepsi Can Teach Us About Soft (Drink) Power in Russia
Drink Vodka, Eat Pickles, Repeat: Mastering the Zakuski Spread
When Not in Sochi, Order the Khatchapuri and Eat Like You Are
China's Horses May End Up In Russia's Kabobs
Why Russia Is Saying 'Nyet' To U.S. Meat Imports
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On Monday, Russia began blocking U.S. meat imports until those imports are ractopamine-free.","publishDate":1360722791,"status":"inherit","parent":56672,"modified":1360722791,"caption":null,"credit":null,"description":"A man buys meat at a butcher's stand in Moscow's Dorogomilovsky market in 2011. 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FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_82580":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_82580","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"82580","score":null,"sort":[1401212252000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-soviet-kitchens-became-hotbeds-of-dissent-and-culture","title":"How Soviet Kitchens Became Hotbeds Of Dissent And Culture","publishDate":1401212252,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82581\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1155px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/russian-kitchen-edit3_enl-e9667402b554b6ef8bdb6e7173699162ff9f1422.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/russian-kitchen-edit3_enl-e9667402b554b6ef8bdb6e7173699162ff9f1422.jpg\" alt=\"A typical Russian kitchen inside an apartment built during the early 1960s when Nikita Khrushchev led the Soviet Union — what later became known as Khrushchev apartments. Photo: Courtesy of The Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"1155\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82581\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A typical Russian kitchen inside an apartment built during the early 1960s when Nikita Khrushchev led the Soviet Union — what later became known as Khrushchev apartments. Photo: Courtesy of The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/27/314961287/how-soviet-kitchens-became-hotbeds-of-dissent-and-culture\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140527_me_how_soviet_kitchens_became_hotbeds_of_dissent_and_culture.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/5252035/the-kitchen-sisters\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/27/314961287/how-soviet-kitchens-became-hotbeds-of-dissent-and-culture\">NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/27/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Nikita Khrushchev emerged as the leader of the Soviet Union after Stalin's death in 1953, one of the first things he addressed was the housing shortage and the need for more food. At the time, thousands of people were living in cramped communal apartments, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/20/314054405/how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics\">sharing one kitchen\u003c/a> and one bathroom with sometimes up to 20 other families.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People wanted to live in their own apartment,\" says Sergei Khrushchev, the son of Nikita Khrushchev. \"But in Stalin's time you cannot find this.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>When my father came to power he proclaimed that there will be mass construction of apartment buildings and in each apartment will live only one family.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They were called \u003cem>khrushchevkas\u003c/em> — five story buildings made of prefabricated concrete panels. \"They were horribly built; you could hear your neighbor,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.crunchbase.com/person/edward-shenderovich\">Edward Shendrovich\u003c/a>, an entrepreneur and Russian poet. The apartments had small toilets, very low ceilings and very small kitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But \"no matter how tiny it was, it was yours,\" says journalist Masha Karp, who was born in Moscow and worked as an editor for the BBC World Service from 1991 to 2009. \"This kitchen was the place where people could finally get together and talk at home without fearing the neighbors in the communal flat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These more private kitchens were emblematic of the completely new era of Soviet life under Khrushchev. \"It was called a thaw and for a reason,\" says Karp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Like in the winter when you have a lot of snow but spots are already green and the new grass was coming,\" says Russian writer Vladimir Voinovich. \"In Khrushchev times it was a very good time for inspiration. A little more liberal than before.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82582\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/khrushchev-apartments-eb49211ed2157db0fd79271aa9268ea4e6c05c91.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/khrushchev-apartments-eb49211ed2157db0fd79271aa9268ea4e6c05c91-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"The exterior of Khrushchev-era apartments in Kazan, Russia. Photo: Untifler/Wikipedia\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82582\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The exterior of Khrushchev-era apartments in Kazan, Russia. Photo: Untifler/Wikipedia\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kitchen Table Talk\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The individual kitchens in these tiny apartments, which were approximately 300 to 500 square feet, became hot spots of culture. Music was played, poetry was recited, underground tapes were exchanged, forbidden art and literature circulated, politics was debated and deep friendships were forged.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One of the reasons why kitchen culture developed in Russia is because there were no places to meet,\" says Shendrovich. \"You couldn't have political discussions in public, at your workplace. You couldn't go to cafes – they were state-owned. The kitchen became the place where Russian culture kept living, untouched by the regime.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a country with little or no place to gather for the free expression of ideas and no place to talk politics without fear of repression, these new kitchens made it possible for friends to gather privately in one place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These \"dissident kitchens\" took the place of uncensored lecture halls, unofficial art exhibitions, clubs, bars and dating services.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The kitchen was for intimate circle of your close friends,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=n%3A283155%2Cp_27%3AAlexander%20Genis\">Alexander Genis\u003c/a>, Russian writer and radio journalist. \"When you came to the kitchen, you put on the table some vodka, and something from your balcony, not refrigerator, but balcony, like pickled mushrooms. Something pickled. Sour is the taste of Russia.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Furious discussions took place over pickled cabbage, boiled potatoes, sardines, sprats and herring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Kitchens became debating societies,\" remembers \u003ca href=\"https://dlcl.stanford.edu/people/gregory-grisha-freidin?q=people/gregory-grisha-freidin\">Gregory (Grisha) Freidin\u003c/a>, professor of Slavic languages and literature at Stanford University. \"Even to this day political wind-baggery is referred to as 'kitchen table talk.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even in the kitchen, the KGB was an ever-present threat. People were wary of bugs and hidden microphones. Phones were unplugged or covered with pillows. Water was turned on so no one could hear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some of us had been followed,\" says Freidin. \"Sometimes there would be KGB agents stationed outside the apartments and in the stair wells. During those times we expected to be arrested any night.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Samizdat\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the night wore on, kitchen conversations moved from politics to literature. Much literature was forbidden and could not be published or read openly in Soviet society. Kitchens became the place where people read and exchanged \u003cem>samizdat\u003c/em>, or self-published books and documents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82583\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1239px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/vysotsky-samizdat-edit-f6b681e1b0d4ff97a7889ef5df369de4fe822583.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/vysotsky-samizdat-edit-f6b681e1b0d4ff97a7889ef5df369de4fe822583.jpg\" alt=\"A samizdat collection of poems and song lyrics by Vladimir Vysotsky, published shortly after the famous Soviet bard's death in 1980. Photo: Courtesy of Rossica Berlin Rare Books\" width=\"1239\" height=\"930\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82583\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A samizdat collection of poems and song lyrics by Vladimir Vysotsky, published shortly after the famous Soviet bard's death in 1980. Photo: Courtesy of Rossica Berlin Rare Books\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>People would type hundreds of pages on a typewriter, using carbon paper to create four or five copies, which were passed from one person to the next — political writings, fiction, poetry, philosophy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Samizdat\u003c/em> is, I think, the precursor of internet,\" says Genis. \"You put everything on it, like Facebook. And it wasn't easy to get typewriters because all typewriters must be registered by the KGB. That's how people got caught and sentenced to jail.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Samizdat\u003c/em> was the most important part of our literature life,\" says Genis. \"And literature was the most important part of our life period. Literature for us was like movies for Americans or music for young people.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1973, Masha Karp's friend got hold of a type written copy of Boris Pasternak's \u003cem>Dr. Zhivago.\u003c/em> \"She told me, 'I'm reading it at night, I can't let it out of my hands. But you can come to my kitchen and read it here.' So I read it in four afternoons.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Genis' family read \u003cem>Gulag Archipelago\u003c/em>, by Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn, in the kitchen. \"It's a huge book, three volumes, and all our family sat at the kitchen and we were afraid of our neighbor but she was sleeping. And my father, my mother, my brother, me and my grandma who was very old and had very little education — all sit at the table and read page, give page, the whole night. Maybe it was the best night of my life.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Magnitizdat\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What happened with \u003cem>samizdat\u003c/em> books, happened with music, too. \u003cem>Magnitizdat\u003c/em>, are recordings made on reel to reel tape recorders. Tape recorders were expensive but permitted in the Soviet Union for home recordings of bards, poets, folksingers and songwriters, made and passed from friend to friend. People had hundreds of tapes they shared through the kitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My songs were my type of reactions to the events and news,\" says songwriter Yuli Kim, one of Russia's famous bards, \u003cdel>\u003c/del>who \u003cdel>\u003c/del>was barred from giving public concerts. \"I would write a song about whatever was discussed. I would sing it during the discussion. If there would be someone with a tape recorder they would tape it and take it to another party. Songs were spread quickly like interesting stories.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The most famous bard was Vladimir Vysotsky, who was like Bob Dylan of Russia,\" says Genis. \"That's what you can listen to in kitchen.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82584\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1869px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/x-rays-edit_enl-4ffbacf245da30891fb4845120725845ca5b26a2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/x-rays-edit_enl-4ffbacf245da30891fb4845120725845ca5b26a2.jpg\" alt=\"During the 1950's, with vinyl scarce, Russians began recording rock n' roll, jazz, and boogie woogie on used x-rays that they gathered from hospitals and doctors offices. They would cut a crude circle out with manicure scissors, use a cigarette to burn a hole. Images: Courtesy of Jozsef Hajdu (top); Courtesy of Ksenia Vytuleva (bottom)\" width=\"1869\" height=\"2356\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82584\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">During the 1950's, with vinyl scarce, Russians began recording rock n' roll, jazz, and boogie woogie on used x-rays that they gathered from hospitals and doctors offices. They would cut a crude circle out with manicure scissors, use a cigarette to burn a hole. Images: Courtesy of Jozsef Hajdu (top); Courtesy of Ksenia Vytuleva (bottom)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bone Music\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before the availability of the tape recorder and during the 1950s, when vinyl was scarce, ingenious Russians began recording banned bootlegged jazz, boogie woogie, rock and roll on exposed xray film salvaged from hospital waste bins and archives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Usually it was the western music they wanted to copy,\" says Sergei Khruschev. \"Before the tape recorders they used the xray film of bones and recorded music on the bones, bone music.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They would cut the x-ray into a crude circle with manicure scissors and use a cigarette to burn a hole,\" says author Anya von Bremzen. \"You'd have Elvis on the lungs, Duke Ellington on Aunt Masha's brain scan — forbidden western music captured on the interiors of Soviet citizens.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Radio: A Window to the Freedom\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most kitchens had a radio that reached beyond the borders and censorship of the Soviet Union. People would crowd around the kitchen listening to broadcasts from the BBC, Voice of America, and Radio Liberte.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was part of our life in the kitchen,\" says Vladimir Voinovich, author of \u003cem>The Life and\u003c/em> \u003cem>Extraordinary Adventures of Private Ivan Chonkin\u003c/em>. \"It was a window to the freedom.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Voinovich's books were circulated in samizdat and smuggled out of the country. One of his pieces was broadcast by a foreign radio station. \"I heard some BBC voice reading my chapters. After that I was immediately summoned to KGB.\" Voinovich was expelled from the Writers Union and later forced to emigrate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Moscow\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> Kitchens\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dissident composer Yuliy Kim wrote a cycle of songs called \"Moscow Kitchens\" telling the story of a group of people in the 1950s and the 60s called \"dissidents.\" It tells how they began to get together, how it led to protests, how they were detained and forced to leave the country. He describes the kitchen:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"A tea house, a pie house, a pancake house, a study, a gambling dive, a living room, a parlor, a ballroom. A salon for a passing by drunkard. A home for a visiting bard to crash for a night. This is a Moscow kitchen, ten square meters housing 100 guests.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>And, he adds: \"This is how this subversive thought grew and expanded in the Soviet Union, beginning with free discussions at the kitchens.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>More From The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchensisters.org/\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, Davia Nelson and Nikki Silva, are Peabody Award-winning independent producers who create radio and multimedia stories for NPR and public broadcast. Their \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/series/91851784/hidden-kitchens-the-kitchen-sisters\">Hidden Kitchen\u003c/a> series travels the world, chronicling little-known kitchen rituals and traditions that explore how communities come together through food — from modern-day Sicily to medieval England, the Australian Outback to the desert oasis of California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Additional features, photos, recipes and music can be found at \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchensisters.org\">kitchensisters.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"After Stalin's death, people in the Soviet Union could begin to debate politics again without fear of repression. This \"thawing\" took place in private kitchens, where music and art flourished, too.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1401811707,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":47,"wordCount":1673},"headData":{"title":"How Soviet Kitchens Became Hotbeds Of Dissent And Culture | KQED","description":"After Stalin's death, people in the Soviet Union could begin to debate politics again without fear of repression. This "thawing" took place in private kitchens, where music and art flourished, too.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"How Soviet Kitchens Became Hotbeds Of Dissent And Culture","datePublished":"2014-05-27T17:37:32.000Z","dateModified":"2014-06-03T16:08:27.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"82580 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=82580","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/05/27/how-soviet-kitchens-became-hotbeds-of-dissent-and-culture/","disqusTitle":"How Soviet Kitchens Became Hotbeds Of Dissent And Culture","nprByline":"The Kitchen Sisters","nprStoryId":"314961287","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=314961287&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/27/314961287/how-soviet-kitchens-became-hotbeds-of-dissent-and-culture?ft=3&f=314961287","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 27 May 2014 12:17:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 27 May 2014 03:22:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 27 May 2014 12:17:01 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140527_me_how_soviet_kitchens_became_hotbeds_of_dissent_and_culture.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&ft=3&f=314961287","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1316269194-88def8.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&ft=3&f=314961287","path":"/bayareabites/82580/how-soviet-kitchens-became-hotbeds-of-dissent-and-culture","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140527_me_how_soviet_kitchens_became_hotbeds_of_dissent_and_culture.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82581\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1155px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/russian-kitchen-edit3_enl-e9667402b554b6ef8bdb6e7173699162ff9f1422.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/russian-kitchen-edit3_enl-e9667402b554b6ef8bdb6e7173699162ff9f1422.jpg\" alt=\"A typical Russian kitchen inside an apartment built during the early 1960s when Nikita Khrushchev led the Soviet Union — what later became known as Khrushchev apartments. Photo: Courtesy of The Kitchen Sisters\" width=\"1155\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82581\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A typical Russian kitchen inside an apartment built during the early 1960s when Nikita Khrushchev led the Soviet Union — what later became known as Khrushchev apartments. Photo: Courtesy of The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/27/314961287/how-soviet-kitchens-became-hotbeds-of-dissent-and-culture\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140527_me_how_soviet_kitchens_became_hotbeds_of_dissent_and_culture.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/5252035/the-kitchen-sisters\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/27/314961287/how-soviet-kitchens-became-hotbeds-of-dissent-and-culture\">NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/27/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Nikita Khrushchev emerged as the leader of the Soviet Union after Stalin's death in 1953, one of the first things he addressed was the housing shortage and the need for more food. At the time, thousands of people were living in cramped communal apartments, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/20/314054405/how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics\">sharing one kitchen\u003c/a> and one bathroom with sometimes up to 20 other families.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"People wanted to live in their own apartment,\" says Sergei Khrushchev, the son of Nikita Khrushchev. \"But in Stalin's time you cannot find this.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>When my father came to power he proclaimed that there will be mass construction of apartment buildings and in each apartment will live only one family.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They were called \u003cem>khrushchevkas\u003c/em> — five story buildings made of prefabricated concrete panels. \"They were horribly built; you could hear your neighbor,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.crunchbase.com/person/edward-shenderovich\">Edward Shendrovich\u003c/a>, an entrepreneur and Russian poet. The apartments had small toilets, very low ceilings and very small kitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But \"no matter how tiny it was, it was yours,\" says journalist Masha Karp, who was born in Moscow and worked as an editor for the BBC World Service from 1991 to 2009. \"This kitchen was the place where people could finally get together and talk at home without fearing the neighbors in the communal flat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These more private kitchens were emblematic of the completely new era of Soviet life under Khrushchev. \"It was called a thaw and for a reason,\" says Karp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Like in the winter when you have a lot of snow but spots are already green and the new grass was coming,\" says Russian writer Vladimir Voinovich. \"In Khrushchev times it was a very good time for inspiration. A little more liberal than before.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82582\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/khrushchev-apartments-eb49211ed2157db0fd79271aa9268ea4e6c05c91.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/khrushchev-apartments-eb49211ed2157db0fd79271aa9268ea4e6c05c91-290x217.jpg\" alt=\"The exterior of Khrushchev-era apartments in Kazan, Russia. Photo: Untifler/Wikipedia\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-82582\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The exterior of Khrushchev-era apartments in Kazan, Russia. Photo: Untifler/Wikipedia\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Kitchen Table Talk\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The individual kitchens in these tiny apartments, which were approximately 300 to 500 square feet, became hot spots of culture. Music was played, poetry was recited, underground tapes were exchanged, forbidden art and literature circulated, politics was debated and deep friendships were forged.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"One of the reasons why kitchen culture developed in Russia is because there were no places to meet,\" says Shendrovich. \"You couldn't have political discussions in public, at your workplace. You couldn't go to cafes – they were state-owned. The kitchen became the place where Russian culture kept living, untouched by the regime.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a country with little or no place to gather for the free expression of ideas and no place to talk politics without fear of repression, these new kitchens made it possible for friends to gather privately in one place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>These \"dissident kitchens\" took the place of uncensored lecture halls, unofficial art exhibitions, clubs, bars and dating services.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The kitchen was for intimate circle of your close friends,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=n%3A283155%2Cp_27%3AAlexander%20Genis\">Alexander Genis\u003c/a>, Russian writer and radio journalist. \"When you came to the kitchen, you put on the table some vodka, and something from your balcony, not refrigerator, but balcony, like pickled mushrooms. Something pickled. Sour is the taste of Russia.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Furious discussions took place over pickled cabbage, boiled potatoes, sardines, sprats and herring.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Kitchens became debating societies,\" remembers \u003ca href=\"https://dlcl.stanford.edu/people/gregory-grisha-freidin?q=people/gregory-grisha-freidin\">Gregory (Grisha) Freidin\u003c/a>, professor of Slavic languages and literature at Stanford University. \"Even to this day political wind-baggery is referred to as 'kitchen table talk.' \"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Even in the kitchen, the KGB was an ever-present threat. People were wary of bugs and hidden microphones. Phones were unplugged or covered with pillows. Water was turned on so no one could hear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Some of us had been followed,\" says Freidin. \"Sometimes there would be KGB agents stationed outside the apartments and in the stair wells. During those times we expected to be arrested any night.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Samizdat\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the night wore on, kitchen conversations moved from politics to literature. Much literature was forbidden and could not be published or read openly in Soviet society. Kitchens became the place where people read and exchanged \u003cem>samizdat\u003c/em>, or self-published books and documents.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82583\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1239px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/vysotsky-samizdat-edit-f6b681e1b0d4ff97a7889ef5df369de4fe822583.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/vysotsky-samizdat-edit-f6b681e1b0d4ff97a7889ef5df369de4fe822583.jpg\" alt=\"A samizdat collection of poems and song lyrics by Vladimir Vysotsky, published shortly after the famous Soviet bard's death in 1980. Photo: Courtesy of Rossica Berlin Rare Books\" width=\"1239\" height=\"930\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82583\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A samizdat collection of poems and song lyrics by Vladimir Vysotsky, published shortly after the famous Soviet bard's death in 1980. Photo: Courtesy of Rossica Berlin Rare Books\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>People would type hundreds of pages on a typewriter, using carbon paper to create four or five copies, which were passed from one person to the next — political writings, fiction, poetry, philosophy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Samizdat\u003c/em> is, I think, the precursor of internet,\" says Genis. \"You put everything on it, like Facebook. And it wasn't easy to get typewriters because all typewriters must be registered by the KGB. That's how people got caught and sentenced to jail.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"\u003cem>Samizdat\u003c/em> was the most important part of our literature life,\" says Genis. \"And literature was the most important part of our life period. Literature for us was like movies for Americans or music for young people.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 1973, Masha Karp's friend got hold of a type written copy of Boris Pasternak's \u003cem>Dr. Zhivago.\u003c/em> \"She told me, 'I'm reading it at night, I can't let it out of my hands. But you can come to my kitchen and read it here.' So I read it in four afternoons.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Genis' family read \u003cem>Gulag Archipelago\u003c/em>, by Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn, in the kitchen. \"It's a huge book, three volumes, and all our family sat at the kitchen and we were afraid of our neighbor but she was sleeping. And my father, my mother, my brother, me and my grandma who was very old and had very little education — all sit at the table and read page, give page, the whole night. Maybe it was the best night of my life.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003cstrong>Magnitizdat\u003c/strong>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What happened with \u003cem>samizdat\u003c/em> books, happened with music, too. \u003cem>Magnitizdat\u003c/em>, are recordings made on reel to reel tape recorders. Tape recorders were expensive but permitted in the Soviet Union for home recordings of bards, poets, folksingers and songwriters, made and passed from friend to friend. People had hundreds of tapes they shared through the kitchens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"My songs were my type of reactions to the events and news,\" says songwriter Yuli Kim, one of Russia's famous bards, \u003cdel>\u003c/del>who \u003cdel>\u003c/del>was barred from giving public concerts. \"I would write a song about whatever was discussed. I would sing it during the discussion. If there would be someone with a tape recorder they would tape it and take it to another party. Songs were spread quickly like interesting stories.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The most famous bard was Vladimir Vysotsky, who was like Bob Dylan of Russia,\" says Genis. \"That's what you can listen to in kitchen.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82584\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1869px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/x-rays-edit_enl-4ffbacf245da30891fb4845120725845ca5b26a2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/x-rays-edit_enl-4ffbacf245da30891fb4845120725845ca5b26a2.jpg\" alt=\"During the 1950's, with vinyl scarce, Russians began recording rock n' roll, jazz, and boogie woogie on used x-rays that they gathered from hospitals and doctors offices. They would cut a crude circle out with manicure scissors, use a cigarette to burn a hole. Images: Courtesy of Jozsef Hajdu (top); Courtesy of Ksenia Vytuleva (bottom)\" width=\"1869\" height=\"2356\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82584\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">During the 1950's, with vinyl scarce, Russians began recording rock n' roll, jazz, and boogie woogie on used x-rays that they gathered from hospitals and doctors offices. They would cut a crude circle out with manicure scissors, use a cigarette to burn a hole. Images: Courtesy of Jozsef Hajdu (top); Courtesy of Ksenia Vytuleva (bottom)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bone Music\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Before the availability of the tape recorder and during the 1950s, when vinyl was scarce, ingenious Russians began recording banned bootlegged jazz, boogie woogie, rock and roll on exposed xray film salvaged from hospital waste bins and archives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Usually it was the western music they wanted to copy,\" says Sergei Khruschev. \"Before the tape recorders they used the xray film of bones and recorded music on the bones, bone music.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They would cut the x-ray into a crude circle with manicure scissors and use a cigarette to burn a hole,\" says author Anya von Bremzen. \"You'd have Elvis on the lungs, Duke Ellington on Aunt Masha's brain scan — forbidden western music captured on the interiors of Soviet citizens.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Radio: A Window to the Freedom\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most kitchens had a radio that reached beyond the borders and censorship of the Soviet Union. People would crowd around the kitchen listening to broadcasts from the BBC, Voice of America, and Radio Liberte.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It was part of our life in the kitchen,\" says Vladimir Voinovich, author of \u003cem>The Life and\u003c/em> \u003cem>Extraordinary Adventures of Private Ivan Chonkin\u003c/em>. \"It was a window to the freedom.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Voinovich's books were circulated in samizdat and smuggled out of the country. One of his pieces was broadcast by a foreign radio station. \"I heard some BBC voice reading my chapters. After that I was immediately summoned to KGB.\" Voinovich was expelled from the Writers Union and later forced to emigrate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Moscow\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong> Kitchens\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dissident composer Yuliy Kim wrote a cycle of songs called \"Moscow Kitchens\" telling the story of a group of people in the 1950s and the 60s called \"dissidents.\" It tells how they began to get together, how it led to protests, how they were detained and forced to leave the country. He describes the kitchen:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"A tea house, a pie house, a pancake house, a study, a gambling dive, a living room, a parlor, a ballroom. A salon for a passing by drunkard. A home for a visiting bard to crash for a night. This is a Moscow kitchen, ten square meters housing 100 guests.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>And, he adds: \"This is how this subversive thought grew and expanded in the Soviet Union, beginning with free discussions at the kitchens.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>More From The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchensisters.org/\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, Davia Nelson and Nikki Silva, are Peabody Award-winning independent producers who create radio and multimedia stories for NPR and public broadcast. Their \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/series/91851784/hidden-kitchens-the-kitchen-sisters\">Hidden Kitchen\u003c/a> series travels the world, chronicling little-known kitchen rituals and traditions that explore how communities come together through food — from modern-day Sicily to medieval England, the Australian Outback to the desert oasis of California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Additional features, photos, recipes and music can be found at \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchensisters.org\">kitchensisters.org\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/82580/how-soviet-kitchens-became-hotbeds-of-dissent-and-culture","authors":["byline_bayareabites_82580"],"categories":["bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_34"],"tags":["bayareabites_13334","bayareabites_11194","bayareabites_13408","bayareabites_13409","bayareabites_13429","bayareabites_9006"],"featImg":"bayareabites_82581","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_82339":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_82339","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"82339","score":null,"sort":[1400611114000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics","title":"How Russia's Shared Kitchens Helped Shape Soviet Politics ","publishDate":1400611114,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82340\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1777px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/anna-854becedc3a4dfe867b56f0aa8327173adbd1d16.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/anna-854becedc3a4dfe867b56f0aa8327173adbd1d16.jpg\" alt=\"Anna Matveevna came to this communal apartment in St. Petersburg in 1931, when she was 8 years old. Photo: Courtesy of European University, St. Petersburg, Russia,Colgate University and Cornell University\" width=\"1777\" height=\"1331\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82340\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anna Matveevna came to this communal apartment in St. Petersburg in 1931, when she was 8 years old. Photo: Courtesy of European University, St. Petersburg, Russia,Colgate University and Cornell University\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/20/314054405/how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140520_me_how_russias_shared_kitchens_helped_shape_soviet_politics_.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/5252035/the-kitchen-sisters\" target=\"_blank\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/20/314054405/how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/20/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the decades following the 1917 Russian Revolution, most people in Moscow lived in communal apartments; seven or more families crammed together where there had been one, sharing one kitchen and one bathroom. They were crowded; stove space and food were limited. Clotheslines were strewn across the kitchen, the laundry of one family dripping into the omelet of another.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the Soviet Union industrialized from the 1920s to the 1950s, and millions poured into Moscow from the countryside, one of the goals of the new government was to provide housing for the workers. It started putting people into apartments that had been occupied by the rich or by aristocrats who had been driven out by the new regime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The communal apartment was like a microcosm of Soviet society,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/authors/223091725/anya-von-bremzen\">Anya von Bremzen\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking\u003c/em>. \"People from all walks of life, sometimes absolute class enemies, living next to each other. The expression was 'densed up.' The allotment was 9 square meters per person.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.stanford.edu/~gfreidin/\">Gregory (Grisha) Freidin,\u003c/a> professor of Russian literature at Stanford University, grew up in a communal apartment of 10 families about five blocks from the Kremlin in the 1940s. \"On one side of my room was the man who washed corpses at the local morgue.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>There were two rooms where the mother and father served in the KGB. Then there was the woman whose husband was serving a sentence for stealing bread from the bread factory where he worked.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82341\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1772px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/44b4_001_vert-2e6f07a51f0c4f4006a6f35b530acc83f3d01b36.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/44b4_001_vert-2e6f07a51f0c4f4006a6f35b530acc83f3d01b36.jpg\" alt=\"Laundry drying in a communal kitchen in Moscow. Photo: Courtesy of European University, St. Petersburg, Russia, Colgate University and Cornell University\" width=\"1772\" height=\"2362\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82341\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Laundry drying in a communal kitchen in Moscow. Photo: Courtesy of European University, St. Petersburg, Russia, Colgate University and Cornell University\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In Freidin's kitchen, every family had a small kitchen table that housed a few pots and pans. There were two four-burner stoves. Everyone cooked their own food — cabbage soup, borscht with beets, potatoes, buckwheat groats, boiled chicken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kitchens became a source of tension and conflict. \"Five different kettles, five different pots that are all marked,\" says Edward Shenderovich, venture capital investor and Russian poet. \"When relations between the neighbors were especially fierce, you could see locks on the cabinets.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Families cooked in quick, staggered shifts. \"They cooked in the kitchen but practically never ate there,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://uk.linkedin.com/pub/masha-karp/23/308/509\">Masha Karp\u003c/a>, who was born in Moscow and worked as a Russian features editor for the BBC World Service from 1991 to 2009. \"They would go with their pots along their corridor and eat in their room.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crowded Kitchens By Design\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Communal kitchen was a war zone,\" says Alexander Genis, Russian writer and radio journalist. \"During the Stalin era [1928-1953] it was the most dangerous place to be — in the kitchen.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shenderovich agrees: \"Communal kitchens were not places where you would bring your friends. I think that was one of the ideas for creating a communal kitchen. There would be a watchful eye of society over every communal apartment. People would report on each other. You would never know who would be reporting.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Anya von Bremzen remembers there was camaraderie as well. \"There was always a grandmother to take care of the kids, and share a bit of \u003cem>cutletta\u003c/em> or \u003cem>salat Olivier\u003c/em>. And when they began to disband the communal apartments, the communal kitchen was an institution that many people actually began to miss.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reason Soviet authorities considered kitchens and private apartments dangerous to the regime was because they were places people could gather to talk about politics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The most important part of kitchen politics in early Soviet time was they would like to have houses without kitchens,\" says Genis. \"Because kitchen is something \u003cem>bourgeois\u003c/em>. Every family, as long as they have a kitchen, they have some part of their private life and private property.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.choices.edu/resources/scholars_Khrushchev.php\">Sergei Khrushchev\u003c/a>, retired Brown University professor and son of\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Nikita Khrushchev, the head of the Soviet Union from 1953 to 1964, explains: \"In Stalin's time, the theoretical idea of communism declared that all people have to be equal and the women have to be free from the slavery work in the kitchen. There mustn't be a kitchen in the apartment. You will go and eat in the cafeteria.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was part of the romantic approach of the early post-revolutionary years, says Masha Karp. \"People forget what an incredible upheaval the 1917 revolution was,\" she says. \"There was a huge movement to free the country from the czarism, bring happiness to poorer classes. People thought maybe it was a good idea to relieve a housewife from her daily chores so that she could develop as a personality. She would go and play the piano, write poetry, and she would not cook and wash up. The idea to have canteens and cafeterias was a continuation of this wonderful intention.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the cafeteria idea did not pan out. After the revolution, the civil war began and they did not build any cafeterias. Also, Anya von Bremzen tells us,\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>the food in the canteens was terrible, and women continued to cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Bolsheviks were not into food. [Vladimir] Lenin was not a foodie,\" says von Bremzen. \"They saw it as fuel; they had to feed the workers. The Bolsheviks kind of wanted to eradicate privacy. And private hearth, private stove becomes very politicized.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Following the \u003ca href=\"http://www.historylearningsite.co.uk/russian_civil_war1.htm\">civil war,\u003c/a> the shortages\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>and\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>the famine of the 1920s devastated whatever was left of the Russian kitchen. Stalin's industrialization program included the industrialization of food. Completely new, mass-produced food appeared — foods like canned and processed soup, fish, meat and mayonnaise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The whole of the Soviet Union, all 120 different ethnic groups were suddenly being served exactly the same stuff,\" says Grisha Freidin. \"Choices for this or that food, the tastings, took place at the politburo level. The kinds of candies that were being produced was decided in a special meeting with Stalin and [Vyacheslav] Molotov.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Cold War And The Kitchen Debate\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the death of Soviet leader Joseph Stalin in 1953 and the ramping up of the Cold War, the Soviet Union's goal was to catch up and overtake the United States. In 1959, Nikita Khrushchev decided to have a cultural exchange of exhibitions with the United States, the first in history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Soviet Union's display in the New York Coliseum showcased progress: It featured sputnik satellites, and a model of an atomic ice-breaker and enormous statues of Soviet workers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the Americans' exhibit focused on lifestyle. They built a huge pavilion in Moscow's Sokolniki Park, a futuristic geodesic dome featuring\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>American jazz, basketball, rows and rows of high-heeled shoes, abstract art, long, sleek American cars. The exhibition introduced never-before seen or tasted American products to the Soviet people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For many Soviet visitors to the exhibit, Pepsi-Cola stole the show. \"Every visitor would pass the counter where Pepsi-Cola was given out in disposable paper cups,\" remembers Grisha Freidin, who was 13 years old at the time. A decade later, a historic deal was negotiated that brought Pepsi to Russia. \"Pepsi was the first American company, even before McDonald's, to get their foot in the door. Part of the deal between Pepsi-Cola and the Soviet Union was that Pepsi would be given the distribution rights for Stoli, Stolichnaya Vodka,\" says Freidin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the center of the U.S. exhibit was a \"typical American home\" with a \"typical American kitchen.\" It had gleaming white refrigerators, washing machines and all the latest electric appliances.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Vice President Richard Nixon arrived to open the pavilion, it was in this model Betty Crocker kitchen that he and Nikita Khrushchev made an unscheduled stop and came head to head in what is now known as \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.c-span.org/video/?110721-1/nixonkhrushchev-kitchen-debate\">The Kitchen Debate\u003c/a>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82342\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2698px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/50475727-fd1409fee35acca7748b729b71bb0b6f8b32be7e.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/50475727-fd1409fee35acca7748b729b71bb0b6f8b32be7e.jpg\" alt=\"Soviet Premier Nikita Khrushchev and U.S. Vice President Richard Nixon have an impromptu and testy ideological debate in a model American kitchen in July 1959. Photo: Howard Sochurek/Time\" width=\"2698\" height=\"2024\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82342\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Soviet Premier Nikita Khrushchev and U.S. Vice President Richard Nixon have an impromptu and testy ideological debate in a model American kitchen in July 1959. Photo: Howard Sochurek/Time\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"They go to this kitchen,\" remembers Sergei Khrushchev, \"and Nixon talks about American achievement and my father talks about Soviet achievement. They argue with each other about which system is better.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While there's only a \u003ca href=\"http://www.foia.cia.gov/sites/default/files/document_conversions/16/1959-07-24.pdf\">partial transcript\u003c/a> of the impromptu encounter, here's what the \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> reporter who covered the event in 1959 \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/learning/general/onthisday/big/0724.html#article\">wrote\u003c/a>:\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"On political problems,\" the Soviet Premier said, \"we will never agree with you. For instance, [Soviet statesman Anastas] \u003ca href=\"http://russiapedia.rt.com/prominent-russians/politics-and-society/anastas-mikoyan/\">Mikoyan\u003c/a> likes very peppery soup. I do not. But this does not mean that we do not get along.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You can learn from us, and we can learn from you,\" Mr. Nixon said. \"There must be a free exchange. Let the people choose the kind of house, the kind of soup, the kind of ideas that they want.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>And so, the threat of atomic warfare, economic progress and diplomacy were all examined through the lens of the kitchen. \"Nixon and Khrushchev talked about food,\" says the Russian writer Alexander Genis, \"how people live, how people eat.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"In the Soviet Union's communal kitchens, many families jockeyed for one stove. Apartments were crowded, food was scarce and government informants were everywhere. Still, some found joy and connection.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1400611114,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":36,"wordCount":1549},"headData":{"title":"How Russia's Shared Kitchens Helped Shape Soviet Politics | KQED","description":"In the Soviet Union's communal kitchens, many families jockeyed for one stove. Apartments were crowded, food was scarce and government informants were everywhere. Still, some found joy and connection.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"How Russia's Shared Kitchens Helped Shape Soviet Politics ","datePublished":"2014-05-20T18:38:34.000Z","dateModified":"2014-05-20T18:38:34.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"82339 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=82339","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/05/20/how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics/","disqusTitle":"How Russia's Shared Kitchens Helped Shape Soviet Politics ","nprByline":"The Kitchen Sisters","nprStoryId":"314054405","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=314054405&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/20/314054405/how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics?ft=3&f=314054405","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 20 May 2014 11:43:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 20 May 2014 03:30:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 20 May 2014 09:33:00 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140520_me_how_russias_shared_kitchens_helped_shape_soviet_politics_.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=314054405","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1314138915-e8ff1b.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=314054405","path":"/bayareabites/82339/how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140520_me_how_russias_shared_kitchens_helped_shape_soviet_politics_.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82340\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1777px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/anna-854becedc3a4dfe867b56f0aa8327173adbd1d16.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/anna-854becedc3a4dfe867b56f0aa8327173adbd1d16.jpg\" alt=\"Anna Matveevna came to this communal apartment in St. Petersburg in 1931, when she was 8 years old. Photo: Courtesy of European University, St. Petersburg, Russia,Colgate University and Cornell University\" width=\"1777\" height=\"1331\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82340\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Anna Matveevna came to this communal apartment in St. Petersburg in 1931, when she was 8 years old. Photo: Courtesy of European University, St. Petersburg, Russia,Colgate University and Cornell University\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/20/314054405/how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/05/20140520_me_how_russias_shared_kitchens_helped_shape_soviet_politics_.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/5252035/the-kitchen-sisters\" target=\"_blank\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/20/314054405/how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/20/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the decades following the 1917 Russian Revolution, most people in Moscow lived in communal apartments; seven or more families crammed together where there had been one, sharing one kitchen and one bathroom. They were crowded; stove space and food were limited. Clotheslines were strewn across the kitchen, the laundry of one family dripping into the omelet of another.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As the Soviet Union industrialized from the 1920s to the 1950s, and millions poured into Moscow from the countryside, one of the goals of the new government was to provide housing for the workers. It started putting people into apartments that had been occupied by the rich or by aristocrats who had been driven out by the new regime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The communal apartment was like a microcosm of Soviet society,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/authors/223091725/anya-von-bremzen\">Anya von Bremzen\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking\u003c/em>. \"People from all walks of life, sometimes absolute class enemies, living next to each other. The expression was 'densed up.' The allotment was 9 square meters per person.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.stanford.edu/~gfreidin/\">Gregory (Grisha) Freidin,\u003c/a> professor of Russian literature at Stanford University, grew up in a communal apartment of 10 families about five blocks from the Kremlin in the 1940s. \"On one side of my room was the man who washed corpses at the local morgue.\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>There were two rooms where the mother and father served in the KGB. Then there was the woman whose husband was serving a sentence for stealing bread from the bread factory where he worked.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82341\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1772px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/44b4_001_vert-2e6f07a51f0c4f4006a6f35b530acc83f3d01b36.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/44b4_001_vert-2e6f07a51f0c4f4006a6f35b530acc83f3d01b36.jpg\" alt=\"Laundry drying in a communal kitchen in Moscow. Photo: Courtesy of European University, St. Petersburg, Russia, Colgate University and Cornell University\" width=\"1772\" height=\"2362\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82341\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Laundry drying in a communal kitchen in Moscow. Photo: Courtesy of European University, St. Petersburg, Russia, Colgate University and Cornell University\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>In Freidin's kitchen, every family had a small kitchen table that housed a few pots and pans. There were two four-burner stoves. Everyone cooked their own food — cabbage soup, borscht with beets, potatoes, buckwheat groats, boiled chicken.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Kitchens became a source of tension and conflict. \"Five different kettles, five different pots that are all marked,\" says Edward Shenderovich, venture capital investor and Russian poet. \"When relations between the neighbors were especially fierce, you could see locks on the cabinets.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Families cooked in quick, staggered shifts. \"They cooked in the kitchen but practically never ate there,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://uk.linkedin.com/pub/masha-karp/23/308/509\">Masha Karp\u003c/a>, who was born in Moscow and worked as a Russian features editor for the BBC World Service from 1991 to 2009. \"They would go with their pots along their corridor and eat in their room.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crowded Kitchens By Design\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Communal kitchen was a war zone,\" says Alexander Genis, Russian writer and radio journalist. \"During the Stalin era [1928-1953] it was the most dangerous place to be — in the kitchen.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Shenderovich agrees: \"Communal kitchens were not places where you would bring your friends. I think that was one of the ideas for creating a communal kitchen. There would be a watchful eye of society over every communal apartment. People would report on each other. You would never know who would be reporting.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Anya von Bremzen remembers there was camaraderie as well. \"There was always a grandmother to take care of the kids, and share a bit of \u003cem>cutletta\u003c/em> or \u003cem>salat Olivier\u003c/em>. And when they began to disband the communal apartments, the communal kitchen was an institution that many people actually began to miss.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The reason Soviet authorities considered kitchens and private apartments dangerous to the regime was because they were places people could gather to talk about politics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The most important part of kitchen politics in early Soviet time was they would like to have houses without kitchens,\" says Genis. \"Because kitchen is something \u003cem>bourgeois\u003c/em>. Every family, as long as they have a kitchen, they have some part of their private life and private property.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.choices.edu/resources/scholars_Khrushchev.php\">Sergei Khrushchev\u003c/a>, retired Brown University professor and son of\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>Nikita Khrushchev, the head of the Soviet Union from 1953 to 1964, explains: \"In Stalin's time, the theoretical idea of communism declared that all people have to be equal and the women have to be free from the slavery work in the kitchen. There mustn't be a kitchen in the apartment. You will go and eat in the cafeteria.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This was part of the romantic approach of the early post-revolutionary years, says Masha Karp. \"People forget what an incredible upheaval the 1917 revolution was,\" she says. \"There was a huge movement to free the country from the czarism, bring happiness to poorer classes. People thought maybe it was a good idea to relieve a housewife from her daily chores so that she could develop as a personality. She would go and play the piano, write poetry, and she would not cook and wash up. The idea to have canteens and cafeterias was a continuation of this wonderful intention.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the cafeteria idea did not pan out. After the revolution, the civil war began and they did not build any cafeterias. Also, Anya von Bremzen tells us,\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>the food in the canteens was terrible, and women continued to cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Bolsheviks were not into food. [Vladimir] Lenin was not a foodie,\" says von Bremzen. \"They saw it as fuel; they had to feed the workers. The Bolsheviks kind of wanted to eradicate privacy. And private hearth, private stove becomes very politicized.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Following the \u003ca href=\"http://www.historylearningsite.co.uk/russian_civil_war1.htm\">civil war,\u003c/a> the shortages\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>and\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>the famine of the 1920s devastated whatever was left of the Russian kitchen. Stalin's industrialization program included the industrialization of food. Completely new, mass-produced food appeared — foods like canned and processed soup, fish, meat and mayonnaise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The whole of the Soviet Union, all 120 different ethnic groups were suddenly being served exactly the same stuff,\" says Grisha Freidin. \"Choices for this or that food, the tastings, took place at the politburo level. The kinds of candies that were being produced was decided in a special meeting with Stalin and [Vyacheslav] Molotov.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Cold War And The Kitchen Debate\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the death of Soviet leader Joseph Stalin in 1953 and the ramping up of the Cold War, the Soviet Union's goal was to catch up and overtake the United States. In 1959, Nikita Khrushchev decided to have a cultural exchange of exhibitions with the United States, the first in history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Soviet Union's display in the New York Coliseum showcased progress: It featured sputnik satellites, and a model of an atomic ice-breaker and enormous statues of Soviet workers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the Americans' exhibit focused on lifestyle. They built a huge pavilion in Moscow's Sokolniki Park, a futuristic geodesic dome featuring\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>American jazz, basketball, rows and rows of high-heeled shoes, abstract art, long, sleek American cars. The exhibition introduced never-before seen or tasted American products to the Soviet people.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For many Soviet visitors to the exhibit, Pepsi-Cola stole the show. \"Every visitor would pass the counter where Pepsi-Cola was given out in disposable paper cups,\" remembers Grisha Freidin, who was 13 years old at the time. A decade later, a historic deal was negotiated that brought Pepsi to Russia. \"Pepsi was the first American company, even before McDonald's, to get their foot in the door. Part of the deal between Pepsi-Cola and the Soviet Union was that Pepsi would be given the distribution rights for Stoli, Stolichnaya Vodka,\" says Freidin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the center of the U.S. exhibit was a \"typical American home\" with a \"typical American kitchen.\" It had gleaming white refrigerators, washing machines and all the latest electric appliances.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When Vice President Richard Nixon arrived to open the pavilion, it was in this model Betty Crocker kitchen that he and Nikita Khrushchev made an unscheduled stop and came head to head in what is now known as \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.c-span.org/video/?110721-1/nixonkhrushchev-kitchen-debate\">The Kitchen Debate\u003c/a>.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82342\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 2698px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/50475727-fd1409fee35acca7748b729b71bb0b6f8b32be7e.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/50475727-fd1409fee35acca7748b729b71bb0b6f8b32be7e.jpg\" alt=\"Soviet Premier Nikita Khrushchev and U.S. Vice President Richard Nixon have an impromptu and testy ideological debate in a model American kitchen in July 1959. Photo: Howard Sochurek/Time\" width=\"2698\" height=\"2024\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82342\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Soviet Premier Nikita Khrushchev and U.S. Vice President Richard Nixon have an impromptu and testy ideological debate in a model American kitchen in July 1959. Photo: Howard Sochurek/Time\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"They go to this kitchen,\" remembers Sergei Khrushchev, \"and Nixon talks about American achievement and my father talks about Soviet achievement. They argue with each other about which system is better.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While there's only a \u003ca href=\"http://www.foia.cia.gov/sites/default/files/document_conversions/16/1959-07-24.pdf\">partial transcript\u003c/a> of the impromptu encounter, here's what the \u003cem>New York Times\u003c/em> reporter who covered the event in 1959 \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/learning/general/onthisday/big/0724.html#article\">wrote\u003c/a>:\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\n\u003cp>\"On political problems,\" the Soviet Premier said, \"we will never agree with you. For instance, [Soviet statesman Anastas] \u003ca href=\"http://russiapedia.rt.com/prominent-russians/politics-and-society/anastas-mikoyan/\">Mikoyan\u003c/a> likes very peppery soup. I do not. But this does not mean that we do not get along.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You can learn from us, and we can learn from you,\" Mr. Nixon said. \"There must be a free exchange. Let the people choose the kind of house, the kind of soup, the kind of ideas that they want.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>And so, the threat of atomic warfare, economic progress and diplomacy were all examined through the lens of the kitchen. \"Nixon and Khrushchev talked about food,\" says the Russian writer Alexander Genis, \"how people live, how people eat.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/82339/how-russias-shared-kitchens-helped-shape-soviet-politics","authors":["byline_bayareabites_82339"],"categories":["bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_13335","bayareabites_10234","bayareabites_11194","bayareabites_9006"],"featImg":"bayareabites_82340","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_78979":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_78979","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"78979","score":null,"sort":[1394493779000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"what-pepsi-can-teach-us-about-soft-drink-power-in-russia","title":"What Pepsi Can Teach Us About Soft (Drink) Power in Russia","publishDate":1394493779,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78980\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/ap9109060344_wide-7d6ea895e371884e0a237aa1c95ce04d498aca9c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/ap9109060344_wide-7d6ea895e371884e0a237aa1c95ce04d498aca9c-1024x575.jpg\" alt=\"Pepsi was the first American consumer product to be manufactured and sold in the former Soviet Union. In 1991, Russians could buy the soda for 20 kopeks, about 10 cents. Photo: Peter Dejong/AP\" width=\"1024\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78980\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pepsi was the first American consumer product to be manufactured and sold in the former Soviet Union. In 1991, Russians could buy the soda for 20 kopeks, about 10 cents. Photo: Peter Dejong/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/130330851/sonari-glinton\" target=\"_blank\">Sonari Glinton\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/03/10/288570744/what-pepsi-can-teach-us-about-soft-drink-power-in-russia\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/10/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/03/10/288570744/what-pepsi-can-teach-us-about-soft-drink-power-in-russia\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2014/03/20140310_atc_how_pepsi_won_over_khrushchev_and_broke_into_the_russian_market.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The United States has threatened economic sanctions against Moscow, but America is light on financial leverage in Russia: The country represents less than 1 percent of U.S. trade, and few major U.S. companies have significant investments there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But one company with a long history in Russia is Pepsi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So how did the American soft drink giant get its foot in the door to build a major market in Russia?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This story of how Pepsi came to be sold widely in Russia could give us some insight into how the two counties do or don't do business with each other. The relationship dates back to the Soviet era.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the Cold War, then-Vice President Richard Nixon visited Soviet Russia to meet with Premier Nikita Khrushchev, which produced some memorable moments. The two men stood in front of a microphone and sparred, with the help of interpreters, in a televised session now known as the Kitchen Debate. The 1959 debate, which \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7HqOrAakco\">you can watch on YouTube\u003c/a>, is all kinds of historical, nerdy awesomeness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You plan to outstrip us, particularly in the production of consumer goods. If this competition is to do the best for both of our peoples and for people everywhere, there must be a free exchange of ideas,\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6RLCw1OZFw\">Nixon said as Khrushchev began to speak\u003c/a> over him. \"You never concede anything.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One thing Russia didn't have on us was brown, fizzy, sugary, delicious drinks. At that debate, Nixon and Khrushchev shared a Pepsi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the time, this shared drink gave Donald Kendall a bright idea. Kendall, who was a buddy of Nixon's, was the head of Pepsi's international operations at the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"[Kendall] went to Russia in 1959 and struck up a good relationship with Nikita Khrushchev,\" recounts \u003ca href=\"http://www.iie.com/staff/author_bio.cfm?author_id=455\">Anders Aslund\u003c/a> with the Peterson Institute for International Economics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, the Soviet government itself began bottling Pepsi, but it wasn't the drink we know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Pepsi was perceived by the population as a Soviet product, and Soviet products were truly bad,\" Aslund says. \"While Pepsi was reasonably good, it was not as good as Western Pepsi.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Good or bad, Pepsi was the only option.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then the Berlin Wall fell. When the Soviet Union closed, a form of free enterprise opened. In the 1990s, there was a boom in the U.S., and American companies were looking to grow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During this time, Pepsi was getting its butt kicked by Coca-Cola all over the world, says Ali Dibadj, a senior analyst with equity research firm Sanford Bernstein who studies packaged goods such as soda and chips. Dibadj says Pepsi had one key element going for it: The company knew a lot about Russia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Pepsi had to find a place to grow that was the path of least resistance, and arguably built on the history, since 1959, and the lower penetration by The Coca-Cola Company. Russia was the closest-to-home option, and it wasn't that close to home,\" Dibadj says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It worked. Russia is now Pepsi's second-largest market behind the U.S., accounting for roughly 8 percent of sales.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So if Pepsi could become a dominant consumer force in Russia, then why hasn't everyone followed suit?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, companies such as Ford, Nike, McDonald's, Boeing and John Deere do have investments in the country, but they don't rely on the Russian market like Pepsi does. The reason, Dibadj says, is that Russia is unpredictable, and so are its consumers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The consumer has a history — given communism, given what they've been though — to, at the first sign of fear, shift very quickly to either different pack sizes [or] different brands. And [Russian consumers] have historically been used to lower-quality brands,\" Dibadj says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the first sign of trouble, Russian consumers go from drinking soda to tap water. Not only that, it's really hard for companies to get into Russia. With such a large country, you have to build giant distribution networks, and there's a lot of red tape.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We don't have a lot of economic leverage,\" Dibadj says. \"There's not a lot of stuff that Russians buy from us, and we don't buy that much stuff from Russia.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's the age-old chicken and egg problem, says \u003ca href=\"http://www0.gsb.columbia.edu/faculty/akhandelwal/\">Amit Khandelwal,\u003c/a> who teaches at Columbia University's Business School. American businesses, he says, are afraid to invest in Russia because it's risky; and it might be less risky if there were more of a U.S. corporate presence there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The U.S. won't have the potential threat of sanctions if there is no pain on both sides,\" Khandelwal says. \"There is no pain on both sides precisely because no business has found it attractive enough to substantially grow their operations in Russia.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In other words, in order for the U.S. to have more soft power in Russia, the U.S. will have to sell that country more than soft drinks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The soft drink giant is one of the few big U.S. firms with major investments in Russia. And the reasons why say a lot about why the U.S. has less leverage in Russia than it might like.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1394493779,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":29,"wordCount":904},"headData":{"title":"What Pepsi Can Teach Us About Soft (Drink) Power in Russia | KQED","description":"The soft drink giant is one of the few big U.S. firms with major investments in Russia. And the reasons why say a lot about why the U.S. has less leverage in Russia than it might like.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"What Pepsi Can Teach Us About Soft (Drink) Power in Russia","datePublished":"2014-03-10T23:22:59.000Z","dateModified":"2014-03-10T23:22:59.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"78979 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=78979","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/03/10/what-pepsi-can-teach-us-about-soft-drink-power-in-russia/","disqusTitle":"What Pepsi Can Teach Us About Soft (Drink) Power in Russia","nprByline":"Sonari Glinton","nprStoryId":"288570744","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=288570744&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/03/10/288570744/what-pepsi-can-teach-us-about-soft-drink-power-in-russia?ft=3&f=288570744","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 10 Mar 2014 19:06:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 10 Mar 2014 17:34:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 10 Mar 2014 19:06:32 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2014/03/20140310_atc_how_pepsi_won_over_khrushchev_and_broke_into_the_russian_market.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1006&ft=3&f=288570744","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1288713015-bbff9c.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1006&ft=3&f=288570744","path":"/bayareabites/78979/what-pepsi-can-teach-us-about-soft-drink-power-in-russia","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2014/03/20140310_atc_how_pepsi_won_over_khrushchev_and_broke_into_the_russian_market.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1006&ft=3&f=288570744","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78980\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/ap9109060344_wide-7d6ea895e371884e0a237aa1c95ce04d498aca9c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/ap9109060344_wide-7d6ea895e371884e0a237aa1c95ce04d498aca9c-1024x575.jpg\" alt=\"Pepsi was the first American consumer product to be manufactured and sold in the former Soviet Union. In 1991, Russians could buy the soda for 20 kopeks, about 10 cents. Photo: Peter Dejong/AP\" width=\"1024\" height=\"575\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78980\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pepsi was the first American consumer product to be manufactured and sold in the former Soviet Union. In 1991, Russians could buy the soda for 20 kopeks, about 10 cents. Photo: Peter Dejong/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/130330851/sonari-glinton\" target=\"_blank\">Sonari Glinton\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/03/10/288570744/what-pepsi-can-teach-us-about-soft-drink-power-in-russia\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/10/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/03/10/288570744/what-pepsi-can-teach-us-about-soft-drink-power-in-russia\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2014/03/20140310_atc_how_pepsi_won_over_khrushchev_and_broke_into_the_russian_market.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The United States has threatened economic sanctions against Moscow, but America is light on financial leverage in Russia: The country represents less than 1 percent of U.S. trade, and few major U.S. companies have significant investments there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But one company with a long history in Russia is Pepsi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So how did the American soft drink giant get its foot in the door to build a major market in Russia?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This story of how Pepsi came to be sold widely in Russia could give us some insight into how the two counties do or don't do business with each other. The relationship dates back to the Soviet era.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During the Cold War, then-Vice President Richard Nixon visited Soviet Russia to meet with Premier Nikita Khrushchev, which produced some memorable moments. The two men stood in front of a microphone and sparred, with the help of interpreters, in a televised session now known as the Kitchen Debate. The 1959 debate, which \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7HqOrAakco\">you can watch on YouTube\u003c/a>, is all kinds of historical, nerdy awesomeness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You plan to outstrip us, particularly in the production of consumer goods. If this competition is to do the best for both of our peoples and for people everywhere, there must be a free exchange of ideas,\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6RLCw1OZFw\">Nixon said as Khrushchev began to speak\u003c/a> over him. \"You never concede anything.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One thing Russia didn't have on us was brown, fizzy, sugary, delicious drinks. At that debate, Nixon and Khrushchev shared a Pepsi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the time, this shared drink gave Donald Kendall a bright idea. Kendall, who was a buddy of Nixon's, was the head of Pepsi's international operations at the time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"[Kendall] went to Russia in 1959 and struck up a good relationship with Nikita Khrushchev,\" recounts \u003ca href=\"http://www.iie.com/staff/author_bio.cfm?author_id=455\">Anders Aslund\u003c/a> with the Peterson Institute for International Economics.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Later, the Soviet government itself began bottling Pepsi, but it wasn't the drink we know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Pepsi was perceived by the population as a Soviet product, and Soviet products were truly bad,\" Aslund says. \"While Pepsi was reasonably good, it was not as good as Western Pepsi.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Good or bad, Pepsi was the only option.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then the Berlin Wall fell. When the Soviet Union closed, a form of free enterprise opened. In the 1990s, there was a boom in the U.S., and American companies were looking to grow.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During this time, Pepsi was getting its butt kicked by Coca-Cola all over the world, says Ali Dibadj, a senior analyst with equity research firm Sanford Bernstein who studies packaged goods such as soda and chips. Dibadj says Pepsi had one key element going for it: The company knew a lot about Russia.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Pepsi had to find a place to grow that was the path of least resistance, and arguably built on the history, since 1959, and the lower penetration by The Coca-Cola Company. Russia was the closest-to-home option, and it wasn't that close to home,\" Dibadj says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It worked. Russia is now Pepsi's second-largest market behind the U.S., accounting for roughly 8 percent of sales.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So if Pepsi could become a dominant consumer force in Russia, then why hasn't everyone followed suit?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Well, companies such as Ford, Nike, McDonald's, Boeing and John Deere do have investments in the country, but they don't rely on the Russian market like Pepsi does. The reason, Dibadj says, is that Russia is unpredictable, and so are its consumers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The consumer has a history — given communism, given what they've been though — to, at the first sign of fear, shift very quickly to either different pack sizes [or] different brands. And [Russian consumers] have historically been used to lower-quality brands,\" Dibadj says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the first sign of trouble, Russian consumers go from drinking soda to tap water. Not only that, it's really hard for companies to get into Russia. With such a large country, you have to build giant distribution networks, and there's a lot of red tape.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We don't have a lot of economic leverage,\" Dibadj says. \"There's not a lot of stuff that Russians buy from us, and we don't buy that much stuff from Russia.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's the age-old chicken and egg problem, says \u003ca href=\"http://www0.gsb.columbia.edu/faculty/akhandelwal/\">Amit Khandelwal,\u003c/a> who teaches at Columbia University's Business School. American businesses, he says, are afraid to invest in Russia because it's risky; and it might be less risky if there were more of a U.S. corporate presence there.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The U.S. won't have the potential threat of sanctions if there is no pain on both sides,\" Khandelwal says. \"There is no pain on both sides precisely because no business has found it attractive enough to substantially grow their operations in Russia.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In other words, in order for the U.S. to have more soft power in Russia, the U.S. will have to sell that country more than soft drinks. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/78979/what-pepsi-can-teach-us-about-soft-drink-power-in-russia","authors":["byline_bayareabites_78979"],"categories":["bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_12555","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_11107","bayareabites_13150","bayareabites_11931","bayareabites_11194","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_78984","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_78315":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_78315","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"78315","score":null,"sort":[1392598899000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread","title":"Drink Vodka, Eat Pickles, Repeat: Mastering the Zakuski Spread","publishDate":1392598899,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78316\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1678px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/zakuskitable_custom-cb2b5d9e736c4a74eba520f5fb67de0fcc940ded.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/zakuskitable_custom-cb2b5d9e736c4a74eba520f5fb67de0fcc940ded.jpg\" alt=\"Zakuski tables, like Slava and Luba Frumkin's, are known for their largesse. This spread includes smoked salmon and halibut, pickled green tomatoes, salted mackerel, Herring Under a Fur Coat and Georgian eggplant rolls. Photo: Deena Prichep/NPR\" width=\"1678\" height=\"938\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78316\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zakuski tables, like Slava and Luba Frumkin's, are known for their largesse. This spread includes smoked salmon and halibut, pickled green tomatoes, salted mackerel, Herring Under a Fur Coat and Georgian eggplant rolls. Photo: Deena Prichep/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Deena Prichep, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/277043707/drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/15/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/277043707/drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread\">Weekend Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesat/2014/02/20140215_wesat_drink_vodka_eat_pickles_repeat_mastering_the_zakuski_spread.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you gather with friends to watch the Olympics this weekend, why not prepare what they might serve in Sochi? Try, say, herring instead of chips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you're really presenting food the Russian way, you'll need to make more than one snack. And get your libations in order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Zakuski\u003c/em> are often described as Russia's answer to tapas — a little bite to have with your drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They can be as simple as salted herring, or as rich as blini and caviar. Traditionally, when you welcome guests in from the cold (whether from the Moscow streets, or from the hundreds of miles it takes to travel to a country estate), you give them a warming shot of vodka. And to protect your stomach and palate from the harsh vodka, you quickly follow it with a bite of \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You do not exhale, and you immediately eat something to kind of stun the taste,\" explains \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/09/17/223053778/kitchen-time-machine-a-culinary-romp-through-soviet-history\">Anya von Bremzen\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking\u003c/em>. \"A shot of vodka, a little pickle, a little herring canapé.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the dishes on the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table don't just provide a delicious snack. In a sense, they tell the story of Russia. There are pickles of all sorts — green tomatoes, apples, mushrooms, cabbage — a nod to the food preservation that kept produce available during the long Russian winters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table also expanded during the Soviet Era — as new republics entered the Soviet Union, new flavors arose. There was the bright cuisine of the more temperate Caucasus — full of walnut sauce and fresh herbs for those with enough connections to secure them — and the Baltics, from which canned sprats are now a fixture on many \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> tables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Soviet Era was also the era of mayonnaise, which brought several mayo-blanketed salads to the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table, as the state promoted this new industrial product — salads like the appealingly named \"\u003ca href=\"http://russiapedia.rt.com/of-russian-origin/herring-under-fur-coat/\">Herring Under a Fur Coat\u003c/a>,\" or \u003ca href=\"http://www.wnyc.org/story/recipe-1970s-salat-olivier-russian-potato-salad-pickles/\">Salat Olivier\u003c/a>. Von Bremzen is quick to point out that the tangy Russian-brand mayonnaise, Provensal, is much tastier than its American brethren. There were also canned foods, including cans of hard-to-get items.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laying out \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> wasn't just about food. In a sense, it showed who you were, von Bremzen notes — especially during Soviet times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We had no housing to speak of, we had no cars to speak of, we all wore the same clothes,\" she says. \"So the way you could actually show status, power, hospitality — a whole host of emotions — was through food. Through making this lavish \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And lavish is definitely the right word. Go to a Russian party, and you will be treated to \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> after \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em>, fit onto a groaning table with Tetris-like precision. At a recent evening outside of Portland, Ore., Bonnie Morales struggled to fit the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> onto her parents' table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Every single time, it's like we're not going to fit all this on here,\" Morales says with a laugh. \"It's kind of embarrassing if there's tablecloth visible.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The assortment of dishes is standard for a \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> party, but staggering for an untrained audience. Blini with butter and caviar; Salat Olivier; pickled green tomatoes, plums and apples; smoked salmon, halibut and black cod; salted mackerel; brown bread toasts with egg and smoked sprats; salted mushrooms; Herring Under a Fur Coat; fish in tomato sauce; Georgian eggplant rolls; and canapé with sprats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that's not counting the hot \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em>: \u003cem>piroshki\u003c/em> stuffed with cabbage and golden raisins and pickled mustard seeds; blintzes filled with mushrooms; and \u003cem>pelmeni\u003c/em> filled with farmer cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although these \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> are all delicious, they're almost just an excuse to fill your glass — which is an excuse to make toasts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slava Frumkin, Morales' father, serves as the toastmaster, or \u003cem>tamada. \u003c/em>With his poetic prompting, others also raise their glasses, lifting toasts to family, to the table, to visiting family and new friends — all with a few bites of \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> in between.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, as the accordion comes out, Frumkin raises a final glass to \u003ca href=\"http://kachkapdx.com/\">Kachka\u003c/a> — the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> restaurant his daughter and son-in-law are preparing to open in Portland. They hope it will bring the family \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> tradition to a whole new American table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"\u003cem>Zakuski \u003c/em>are like Russian tapas. More than a delicious snack, these dishes also tell the story of Russia. From \"Herring Under a Fur Coat\" to pickled everything, \u003cem>zakuski \u003c/em>teach us about harsh winters and state-sponsored products in the Soviet era.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1392598899,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":22,"wordCount":799},"headData":{"title":"Drink Vodka, Eat Pickles, Repeat: Mastering the Zakuski Spread | KQED","description":"Zakuski are like Russian tapas. More than a delicious snack, these dishes also tell the story of Russia. From "Herring Under a Fur Coat" to pickled everything, zakuski teach us about harsh winters and state-sponsored products in the Soviet era.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Drink Vodka, Eat Pickles, Repeat: Mastering the Zakuski Spread","datePublished":"2014-02-17T01:01:39.000Z","dateModified":"2014-02-17T01:01:39.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"78315 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=78315","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/02/16/drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread/","disqusTitle":"Drink Vodka, Eat Pickles, Repeat: Mastering the Zakuski Spread","nprByline":"Deena Prichep","nprStoryId":"277043707","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=277043707&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/277043707/drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread?ft=3&f=277043707","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Sun, 16 Feb 2014 09:43:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Sat, 15 Feb 2014 05:15:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Sun, 16 Feb 2014 09:43:39 -0500","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesat/2014/02/20140215_wesat_drink_vodka_eat_pickles_repeat_mastering_the_zakuski_spread.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=277043707","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1277385123-b6181f.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=277043707","path":"/bayareabites/78315/drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesat/2014/02/20140215_wesat_drink_vodka_eat_pickles_repeat_mastering_the_zakuski_spread.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=277043707","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78316\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1678px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/zakuskitable_custom-cb2b5d9e736c4a74eba520f5fb67de0fcc940ded.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/zakuskitable_custom-cb2b5d9e736c4a74eba520f5fb67de0fcc940ded.jpg\" alt=\"Zakuski tables, like Slava and Luba Frumkin's, are known for their largesse. This spread includes smoked salmon and halibut, pickled green tomatoes, salted mackerel, Herring Under a Fur Coat and Georgian eggplant rolls. Photo: Deena Prichep/NPR\" width=\"1678\" height=\"938\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78316\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zakuski tables, like Slava and Luba Frumkin's, are known for their largesse. This spread includes smoked salmon and halibut, pickled green tomatoes, salted mackerel, Herring Under a Fur Coat and Georgian eggplant rolls. Photo: Deena Prichep/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Deena Prichep, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/277043707/drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/15/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/277043707/drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread\">Weekend Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesat/2014/02/20140215_wesat_drink_vodka_eat_pickles_repeat_mastering_the_zakuski_spread.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you gather with friends to watch the Olympics this weekend, why not prepare what they might serve in Sochi? Try, say, herring instead of chips.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But if you're really presenting food the Russian way, you'll need to make more than one snack. And get your libations in order.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Zakuski\u003c/em> are often described as Russia's answer to tapas — a little bite to have with your drink.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>They can be as simple as salted herring, or as rich as blini and caviar. Traditionally, when you welcome guests in from the cold (whether from the Moscow streets, or from the hundreds of miles it takes to travel to a country estate), you give them a warming shot of vodka. And to protect your stomach and palate from the harsh vodka, you quickly follow it with a bite of \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You do not exhale, and you immediately eat something to kind of stun the taste,\" explains \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/09/17/223053778/kitchen-time-machine-a-culinary-romp-through-soviet-history\">Anya von Bremzen\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking\u003c/em>. \"A shot of vodka, a little pickle, a little herring canapé.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the dishes on the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table don't just provide a delicious snack. In a sense, they tell the story of Russia. There are pickles of all sorts — green tomatoes, apples, mushrooms, cabbage — a nod to the food preservation that kept produce available during the long Russian winters.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table also expanded during the Soviet Era — as new republics entered the Soviet Union, new flavors arose. There was the bright cuisine of the more temperate Caucasus — full of walnut sauce and fresh herbs for those with enough connections to secure them — and the Baltics, from which canned sprats are now a fixture on many \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> tables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Soviet Era was also the era of mayonnaise, which brought several mayo-blanketed salads to the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table, as the state promoted this new industrial product — salads like the appealingly named \"\u003ca href=\"http://russiapedia.rt.com/of-russian-origin/herring-under-fur-coat/\">Herring Under a Fur Coat\u003c/a>,\" or \u003ca href=\"http://www.wnyc.org/story/recipe-1970s-salat-olivier-russian-potato-salad-pickles/\">Salat Olivier\u003c/a>. Von Bremzen is quick to point out that the tangy Russian-brand mayonnaise, Provensal, is much tastier than its American brethren. There were also canned foods, including cans of hard-to-get items.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laying out \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> wasn't just about food. In a sense, it showed who you were, von Bremzen notes — especially during Soviet times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"We had no housing to speak of, we had no cars to speak of, we all wore the same clothes,\" she says. \"So the way you could actually show status, power, hospitality — a whole host of emotions — was through food. Through making this lavish \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> table.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And lavish is definitely the right word. Go to a Russian party, and you will be treated to \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> after \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em>, fit onto a groaning table with Tetris-like precision. At a recent evening outside of Portland, Ore., Bonnie Morales struggled to fit the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> onto her parents' table.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Every single time, it's like we're not going to fit all this on here,\" Morales says with a laugh. \"It's kind of embarrassing if there's tablecloth visible.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The assortment of dishes is standard for a \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> party, but staggering for an untrained audience. Blini with butter and caviar; Salat Olivier; pickled green tomatoes, plums and apples; smoked salmon, halibut and black cod; salted mackerel; brown bread toasts with egg and smoked sprats; salted mushrooms; Herring Under a Fur Coat; fish in tomato sauce; Georgian eggplant rolls; and canapé with sprats.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that's not counting the hot \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em>: \u003cem>piroshki\u003c/em> stuffed with cabbage and golden raisins and pickled mustard seeds; blintzes filled with mushrooms; and \u003cem>pelmeni\u003c/em> filled with farmer cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although these \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> are all delicious, they're almost just an excuse to fill your glass — which is an excuse to make toasts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slava Frumkin, Morales' father, serves as the toastmaster, or \u003cem>tamada. \u003c/em>With his poetic prompting, others also raise their glasses, lifting toasts to family, to the table, to visiting family and new friends — all with a few bites of \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> in between.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And, as the accordion comes out, Frumkin raises a final glass to \u003ca href=\"http://kachkapdx.com/\">Kachka\u003c/a> — the \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> restaurant his daughter and son-in-law are preparing to open in Portland. They hope it will bring the family \u003cem>zakuski\u003c/em> tradition to a whole new American table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/78315/drink-vodka-eat-pickles-repeat-mastering-the-zakuski-spread","authors":["byline_bayareabites_78315"],"categories":["bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_529","bayareabites_11194","bayareabites_13079","bayareabites_13083","bayareabites_13082"],"featImg":"bayareabites_78319","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_78251":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_78251","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"78251","score":null,"sort":[1392422329000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"when-not-in-sochi-order-the-khatchapuri-and-eat-like-you-are","title":"When Not in Sochi, Order the Khatchapuri and Eat Like You Are","publishDate":1392422329,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78252\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/sochifood_01-82a2114be68b37403f60d9431540bf2c3c8a2ddb-e1392421761610.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/sochifood_01-82a2114be68b37403f60d9431540bf2c3c8a2ddb-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"Traditional foods in Sochi may be Russian, Ukrainian, Georgian or from the surrounding Krasnodar region. This table is set at Mari Vanna restaurant in Washington, D.C. (Meg Vogel/NPR)\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78252\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traditional foods in Sochi may be Russian, Ukrainian, Georgian or from the surrounding Krasnodar region. This table is set at Mari Vanna restaurant in Washington, D.C. (Meg Vogel/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Nancy Schute, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/276987381/when-not-in-sochi-order-the-khatchapuri-and-eat-like-you-are\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food \u003c/a>(2/14/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We've got more snow here in Washington, D.C., than they have in Sochi, and it's colder. But still it's hard not to dream about being at the Winter Olympics, especially since reports from athletes and spectators say that the food in Sochi is beyond delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's \u003cem>khatchapuri\u003c/em>, a pizza-like Georgian cheese pie that would be perfect for nibbling while walking aside the Black Sea. And \u003cem>solyanka\u003c/em>, a salty-spicy-sour Russian soup that would warm us up after a chilly morning watching triple toe loops. Some kabobs, of course, either the pork chunks known as \u003cem>shashlik\u003c/em> or ground lamb like a Turkish \u003cem>kofta\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just talking about Sochi food was enough to make Team Salt seriously hungry, so we trekked over to \u003ca href=\"http://www.marivanna.ru/\">Mari Vanna\u003c/a>, a Russian restaurant in downtown D.C., that's a hangout for NHL hockey star and Olympic player \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/10/01/228068494/hockeys-ovechkin-helps-move-olympic-torch-from-olympia?start=15&share=email\">Alex Ovechkin\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately, the chef had been thinking Sochi, too. He made sure that \u003cem>khatchapuri\u003c/em> and \u003cem>solyanka \u003c/em>were on the menu. And that was just the start.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was \u003cem>vinagret\u003c/em>, a beet and potato salad, and Olivier salad with potatoes, peas and ham. Both are traditional for parties in Russian homes. Blini plain, with smoked salmon and sour cream, and stuffed with mushrooms. Beef Stroganoff with kasha. Kabobs. And borscht, ruby red from beets, rich with meat and sour cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't forget the \u003cem>rassolnik\u003c/em>, a home-style Russian mushroom soup made tangy with chopped dill pickles. Chicken cutlets. Black bread. And fermented cabbage, lighter and much fresher than sauerkraut. \u003cem>Pelmeni\u003c/em>, little meat dumplings with more sour cream, and maybe a dash of that spicy Caucasian pepper sauce adjika. Dear reader, we ate it all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" link=\"file\" ids=\"78253,78254,78257,78256,78255,78259\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So is this Russian food or Ukrainian? Georgian or Greek? Central Asian? The answer is yes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sochi lies along ancient trade routes from Europe to Asia; cultures have been mingling here for centuries. During the Soviet era, when few were allowed to leave the boundaries of the USSR, a ticket to Sochi was a coveted perk. Think Miami, with comrades. (That's why they call it the \"Russian Riviera.\") And a big part of the perk was feasting on foods from nearby Georgia, Armenia or Azerbaijan, like that Georgian cheese bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Sochi food isn't just Russian food,\" says Alexander Lokhin, a Moscow native who is brand chef for Mari Vanni. \"It's what people who go on vacation like to eat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But those Soviet vacations could stretch for weeks, and at some point people may have craved a taste of home. That helps explain the \u003cem>solyanka\u003c/em>, which is traditional Russian fare. \"It's a really good winter soup,\" Lokhin says. He loads up his version with smoked ham and lamb, cabbage and tomatoes. Green and black olives and lemon slices give it the essential tang, and hint at sunshine and seashore, even in the depths of winter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you can't come to Sochi,\" Lohkin says, \"Come to us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're glad we did. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Athletes and spectators are giving the food in Sochi rave reviews. But what are they eating, exactly? It's a mashup of Soviet-era Russian faves, punctuated with foods of the Caucasus that have long been special treats for people visiting the Russian Riviera.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1392423431,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":true,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":17,"wordCount":556},"headData":{"title":"When Not in Sochi, Order the Khatchapuri and Eat Like You Are | KQED","description":"Athletes and spectators are giving the food in Sochi rave reviews. But what are they eating, exactly? It's a mashup of Soviet-era Russian faves, punctuated with foods of the Caucasus that have long been special treats for people visiting the Russian Riviera.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"When Not in Sochi, Order the Khatchapuri and Eat Like You Are","datePublished":"2014-02-14T23:58:49.000Z","dateModified":"2014-02-15T00:17:11.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"78251 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=78251","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/02/14/when-not-in-sochi-order-the-khatchapuri-and-eat-like-you-are/","disqusTitle":"When Not in Sochi, Order the Khatchapuri and Eat Like You Are","nprByline":"Nancy Shute","nprStoryId":"276987381","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=276987381&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/276987381/when-not-in-sochi-order-the-khatchapuri-and-eat-like-you-are?ft=3&f=276987381","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Fri, 14 Feb 2014 17:38:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Fri, 14 Feb 2014 17:15:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Fri, 14 Feb 2014 17:38:45 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/78251/when-not-in-sochi-order-the-khatchapuri-and-eat-like-you-are","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78252\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/sochifood_01-82a2114be68b37403f60d9431540bf2c3c8a2ddb-e1392421761610.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/sochifood_01-82a2114be68b37403f60d9431540bf2c3c8a2ddb-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"Traditional foods in Sochi may be Russian, Ukrainian, Georgian or from the surrounding Krasnodar region. This table is set at Mari Vanna restaurant in Washington, D.C. (Meg Vogel/NPR)\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78252\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traditional foods in Sochi may be Russian, Ukrainian, Georgian or from the surrounding Krasnodar region. This table is set at Mari Vanna restaurant in Washington, D.C. (Meg Vogel/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Nancy Schute, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/02/14/276987381/when-not-in-sochi-order-the-khatchapuri-and-eat-like-you-are\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food \u003c/a>(2/14/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We've got more snow here in Washington, D.C., than they have in Sochi, and it's colder. But still it's hard not to dream about being at the Winter Olympics, especially since reports from athletes and spectators say that the food in Sochi is beyond delicious.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's \u003cem>khatchapuri\u003c/em>, a pizza-like Georgian cheese pie that would be perfect for nibbling while walking aside the Black Sea. And \u003cem>solyanka\u003c/em>, a salty-spicy-sour Russian soup that would warm us up after a chilly morning watching triple toe loops. Some kabobs, of course, either the pork chunks known as \u003cem>shashlik\u003c/em> or ground lamb like a Turkish \u003cem>kofta\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Just talking about Sochi food was enough to make Team Salt seriously hungry, so we trekked over to \u003ca href=\"http://www.marivanna.ru/\">Mari Vanna\u003c/a>, a Russian restaurant in downtown D.C., that's a hangout for NHL hockey star and Olympic player \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/10/01/228068494/hockeys-ovechkin-helps-move-olympic-torch-from-olympia?start=15&share=email\">Alex Ovechkin\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fortunately, the chef had been thinking Sochi, too. He made sure that \u003cem>khatchapuri\u003c/em> and \u003cem>solyanka \u003c/em>were on the menu. And that was just the start.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was \u003cem>vinagret\u003c/em>, a beet and potato salad, and Olivier salad with potatoes, peas and ham. Both are traditional for parties in Russian homes. Blini plain, with smoked salmon and sour cream, and stuffed with mushrooms. Beef Stroganoff with kasha. Kabobs. And borscht, ruby red from beets, rich with meat and sour cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Don't forget the \u003cem>rassolnik\u003c/em>, a home-style Russian mushroom soup made tangy with chopped dill pickles. Chicken cutlets. Black bread. And fermented cabbage, lighter and much fresher than sauerkraut. \u003cem>Pelmeni\u003c/em>, little meat dumplings with more sour cream, and maybe a dash of that spicy Caucasian pepper sauce adjika. Dear reader, we ate it all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","link":"file","ids":"78253,78254,78257,78256,78255,78259","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So is this Russian food or Ukrainian? Georgian or Greek? Central Asian? The answer is yes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sochi lies along ancient trade routes from Europe to Asia; cultures have been mingling here for centuries. During the Soviet era, when few were allowed to leave the boundaries of the USSR, a ticket to Sochi was a coveted perk. Think Miami, with comrades. (That's why they call it the \"Russian Riviera.\") And a big part of the perk was feasting on foods from nearby Georgia, Armenia or Azerbaijan, like that Georgian cheese bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Sochi food isn't just Russian food,\" says Alexander Lokhin, a Moscow native who is brand chef for Mari Vanni. \"It's what people who go on vacation like to eat.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But those Soviet vacations could stretch for weeks, and at some point people may have craved a taste of home. That helps explain the \u003cem>solyanka\u003c/em>, which is traditional Russian fare. \"It's a really good winter soup,\" Lokhin says. He loads up his version with smoked ham and lamb, cabbage and tomatoes. Green and black olives and lemon slices give it the essential tang, and hint at sunshine and seashore, even in the depths of winter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you can't come to Sochi,\" Lohkin says, \"Come to us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We're glad we did. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/78251/when-not-in-sochi-order-the-khatchapuri-and-eat-like-you-are","authors":["byline_bayareabites_78251"],"categories":["bayareabites_50","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_4","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_13073","bayareabites_11194","bayareabites_13079","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_78252","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_57609":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_57609","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"57609","score":null,"sort":[1362077611000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"chinas-horses-may-end-up-in-russias-kabobs","title":"China's Horses May End Up In Russia's Kabobs","publishDate":1362077611,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Post by Nancy Shute, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/02/27/173072382/chinas-horses-may-end-up-in-russias-kabobs\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/28/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>China isn't a good place to be a horse, if your goal is to avoid ending up as the Russian kabobs known as shashlik.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>China exports the most horse meat to the global market, while Russia has the biggest appetite for horseflesh, according to a new infographic on the continuing European \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/02/15/172124931/romanian-horsement-in-british-lasagna-reveals-complex-global-food-trade\">scandal over horse meat\u003c/a> sold as beef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mike Stewart, editor of the newish blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodsafety.com.au/news/\">Australian Food Safety News\u003c/a>, tried to write a post untangling the many threads of the European horse meat scandal. \"But it was all so complex and confusing, it seemed like the simplest way to explain it was to do an \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodsafety.com.au/2013/02/the-great-horsemeat-scandal-explained/\">infographic,\u003c/a>\" he told The Salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So he dug into data from the U.N.'s \u003ca href=\"http://www.fao.org/index_en.htm\">Food and Agriculture Organization\u003c/a> on horse meat production, import and export, to find that some of the biggest players in the global market aren't in Europe at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you'd fancy a more Eurocentric version, England's \u003cem>The Guardian\u003c/em> did a nice job \u003ca href=\"http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk/datablog/interactive/2013/feb/15/europe-trade-horsemeat-map-interactive?CMP=twt_gu\">tracking\u003c/a> the (legal) movement of horseflesh through Europe. \u003cem>Polpettine\u003c/em>, anyone? The Italians imported twice as much horse meat as the French in 2012.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.foodsafety.com.au/infographics/horsemeat\">\u003cimg width=\"560\" src=\"http://www.foodsafety.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/infographic-horsemeat.jpg\" alt=\"Horsemeat Scandal [Infographic]\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>Via: \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodsafety.com.au/news/\">The Australian Institute of Food Safety\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The horse meat scandal might be playing out in Europe, but China is the biggest producer in the global market for horseflesh, a new infographic reveals.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1362077611,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":10,"wordCount":213},"headData":{"title":"China's Horses May End Up In Russia's Kabobs | KQED","description":"The horse meat scandal might be playing out in Europe, but China is the biggest producer in the global market for horseflesh, a new infographic reveals.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"China's Horses May End Up In Russia's Kabobs","datePublished":"2013-02-28T18:53:31.000Z","dateModified":"2013-02-28T18:53:31.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"57609 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=57609","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/02/28/chinas-horses-may-end-up-in-russias-kabobs/","disqusTitle":"China's Horses May End Up In Russia's Kabobs","nprByline":"Nancy Shute","nprStoryId":"173072382","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=173072382&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/02/27/173072382/chinas-horses-may-end-up-in-russias-kabobs?ft=3&f=173072382","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 28 Feb 2013 12:15:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 28 Feb 2013 11:22:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 28 Feb 2013 12:15:14 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/57609/chinas-horses-may-end-up-in-russias-kabobs","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Post by Nancy Shute, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/02/27/173072382/chinas-horses-may-end-up-in-russias-kabobs\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/28/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>China isn't a good place to be a horse, if your goal is to avoid ending up as the Russian kabobs known as shashlik.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>China exports the most horse meat to the global market, while Russia has the biggest appetite for horseflesh, according to a new infographic on the continuing European \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/02/15/172124931/romanian-horsement-in-british-lasagna-reveals-complex-global-food-trade\">scandal over horse meat\u003c/a> sold as beef.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mike Stewart, editor of the newish blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodsafety.com.au/news/\">Australian Food Safety News\u003c/a>, tried to write a post untangling the many threads of the European horse meat scandal. \"But it was all so complex and confusing, it seemed like the simplest way to explain it was to do an \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodsafety.com.au/2013/02/the-great-horsemeat-scandal-explained/\">infographic,\u003c/a>\" he told The Salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So he dug into data from the U.N.'s \u003ca href=\"http://www.fao.org/index_en.htm\">Food and Agriculture Organization\u003c/a> on horse meat production, import and export, to find that some of the biggest players in the global market aren't in Europe at all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you'd fancy a more Eurocentric version, England's \u003cem>The Guardian\u003c/em> did a nice job \u003ca href=\"http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk/datablog/interactive/2013/feb/15/europe-trade-horsemeat-map-interactive?CMP=twt_gu\">tracking\u003c/a> the (legal) movement of horseflesh through Europe. \u003cem>Polpettine\u003c/em>, anyone? The Italians imported twice as much horse meat as the French in 2012.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.foodsafety.com.au/infographics/horsemeat\">\u003cimg width=\"560\" src=\"http://www.foodsafety.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/infographic-horsemeat.jpg\" alt=\"Horsemeat Scandal [Infographic]\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cbr>Via: \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodsafety.com.au/news/\">The Australian Institute of Food Safety\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/57609/chinas-horses-may-end-up-in-russias-kabobs","authors":["byline_bayareabites_57609"],"categories":["bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_272","bayareabites_11293","bayareabites_11259","bayareabites_11291","bayareabites_11127","bayareabites_11292","bayareabites_11194","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_57610","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_56672":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_56672","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"56672","score":null,"sort":[1360723151000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"why-russia-is-saying-nyet-to-u-s-meat-imports","title":" Why Russia Is Saying 'Nyet' To U.S. Meat Imports","publishDate":1360723151,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56677\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/russia-moscow-meat.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/russia-moscow-meat.jpg\" alt=\"A man buys meat at a butcher's stand in Moscow's Dorogomilovsky market in 2011. On Monday, Russia began blocking U.S. meat imports until those imports are ractopamine-free.\" width=\"624\" height=\"467\" class=\"size-full wp-image-56677\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A man buys meat at a butcher's stand in Moscow's Dorogomilovsky market in 2011. On Monday, Russia began blocking U.S. meat imports until those imports are ractopamine-free. Photo: Natalia Kolesnikova/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/02/11/171727161/why-russia-is-saying-nyet-to-u-s-meat-imports\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chances are, you've never heard of ractopamine. But as of Monday, U.S. meat exports to Russia — worth $500 million dollars a year — have been \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodsafetynews.com/2013/02/escalating-trade-dispute-russia-bans-turkey-over-ractopamine-residues/#.URlUSB2-jnI\">suspended\u003c/a>, all because of this obscure chemical.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Russian officials say American meat products won't be allowed into their country unless the meat is certified free of ractopamine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some U.S. meat producers add ractopamine to the feed that they give to their pigs, cattle or turkeys. Animals who are fed ractopamine convert more of their feed into valuable lean protein, rather than fat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Traces of the additive can be detected in meat, but the U.S. Food and Drug Administration says those small amounts pose no risk to human health. The FDA first approved the additive in 1999.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There have been many reports, however, of health problems in animals that were eating ractopamine. Safety officials in the European Union, China and Russia have refused to approve it. (The Food and Environment Reporting Network \u003ca href=\"http://thefern.org/2012/01/dispute-over-drug-in-feed-limiting-u-s-meat-exports/\">published\u003c/a> a thorough report on the controversies last year.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>U.S. companies that export meat to the European Union in fact, routinely make sure that their meat is free of ractopamine. But exporters to Russia have not been willing to do this. Even though meat exports to Russia have \u003ca href=\"http://www.usmef.org/downloads/Pork-2002-to-2011.pdf\">grown rapidly\u003c/a> in recent years, U.S. exporters haven't been willing to spend the extra money required to supply it with ractopamine-free products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>American officials, for their part, are demanding that Russia end the blockade. Secretary of Agriculture Tom Vilsack and Trade Representative Ron Kirk issued a joint \u003ca href=\"http://usda.gov/wps/portal/usda/usdahome?contentid=2013/02/0023.xml&navid=NEWS_RELEASE&navtype=RT&parentnav=LATEST_RELEASES&edeployment_action=retrievecontent\">statement\u003c/a> calling on Russia to \"restore market access for U.S. meat and meat products immediately.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>American meat, they asserted, \"is produced to the highest safety standards in the world.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Some U.S. meat producers add an obscure chemical called ractopamine to the feed that they give to their pigs, cattle or turkeys. But Russian safety officials haven't approved it, and they've stopped U.S. meat imports – worth a half-billion-dollars a year – until those imports are ractopamine-free.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1360723151,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":12,"wordCount":342},"headData":{"title":"Why Russia Is Saying 'Nyet' To U.S. Meat Imports | KQED","description":"Some U.S. meat producers add an obscure chemical called ractopamine to the feed that they give to their pigs, cattle or turkeys. But Russian safety officials haven't approved it, and they've stopped U.S. meat imports – worth a half-billion-dollars a year – until those imports are ractopamine-free.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":" Why Russia Is Saying 'Nyet' To U.S. Meat Imports","datePublished":"2013-02-13T02:39:11.000Z","dateModified":"2013-02-13T02:39:11.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"56672 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=56672","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/02/12/why-russia-is-saying-nyet-to-u-s-meat-imports/","disqusTitle":" Why Russia Is Saying 'Nyet' To U.S. Meat Imports","nprByline":"Dan Charles","nprStoryId":"171727161","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=171727161&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/02/11/171727161/why-russia-is-saying-nyet-to-u-s-meat-imports?ft=3&f=171727161","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 12 Feb 2013 12:58:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 12 Feb 2013 08:36:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 12 Feb 2013 12:58:23 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/56672/why-russia-is-saying-nyet-to-u-s-meat-imports","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_56677\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/russia-moscow-meat.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/02/russia-moscow-meat.jpg\" alt=\"A man buys meat at a butcher's stand in Moscow's Dorogomilovsky market in 2011. On Monday, Russia began blocking U.S. meat imports until those imports are ractopamine-free.\" width=\"624\" height=\"467\" class=\"size-full wp-image-56677\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A man buys meat at a butcher's stand in Moscow's Dorogomilovsky market in 2011. On Monday, Russia began blocking U.S. meat imports until those imports are ractopamine-free. Photo: Natalia Kolesnikova/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/143160021/daniel-charles\">Dan Charles\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/02/11/171727161/why-russia-is-saying-nyet-to-u-s-meat-imports\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chances are, you've never heard of ractopamine. But as of Monday, U.S. meat exports to Russia — worth $500 million dollars a year — have been \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodsafetynews.com/2013/02/escalating-trade-dispute-russia-bans-turkey-over-ractopamine-residues/#.URlUSB2-jnI\">suspended\u003c/a>, all because of this obscure chemical.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Russian officials say American meat products won't be allowed into their country unless the meat is certified free of ractopamine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some U.S. meat producers add ractopamine to the feed that they give to their pigs, cattle or turkeys. Animals who are fed ractopamine convert more of their feed into valuable lean protein, rather than fat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Traces of the additive can be detected in meat, but the U.S. Food and Drug Administration says those small amounts pose no risk to human health. The FDA first approved the additive in 1999.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There have been many reports, however, of health problems in animals that were eating ractopamine. Safety officials in the European Union, China and Russia have refused to approve it. (The Food and Environment Reporting Network \u003ca href=\"http://thefern.org/2012/01/dispute-over-drug-in-feed-limiting-u-s-meat-exports/\">published\u003c/a> a thorough report on the controversies last year.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>U.S. companies that export meat to the European Union in fact, routinely make sure that their meat is free of ractopamine. But exporters to Russia have not been willing to do this. Even though meat exports to Russia have \u003ca href=\"http://www.usmef.org/downloads/Pork-2002-to-2011.pdf\">grown rapidly\u003c/a> in recent years, U.S. exporters haven't been willing to spend the extra money required to supply it with ractopamine-free products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>American officials, for their part, are demanding that Russia end the blockade. Secretary of Agriculture Tom Vilsack and Trade Representative Ron Kirk issued a joint \u003ca href=\"http://usda.gov/wps/portal/usda/usdahome?contentid=2013/02/0023.xml&navid=NEWS_RELEASE&navtype=RT&parentnav=LATEST_RELEASES&edeployment_action=retrievecontent\">statement\u003c/a> calling on Russia to \"restore market access for U.S. meat and meat products immediately.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>American meat, they asserted, \"is produced to the highest safety standards in the world.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/56672/why-russia-is-saying-nyet-to-u-s-meat-imports","authors":["byline_bayareabites_56672"],"categories":["bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_243","bayareabites_11195","bayareabites_11194","bayareabites_11196","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_56673","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. 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Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. 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You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. 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You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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On Our Watch brings listeners into the rooms where officers are questioned and witnesses are interrogated to find out who this system is really protecting. 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