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Rosenbaum Klassen","firstName":"Stephanie","lastName":"Rosenbaum Klassen","slug":"stephanie-rosenbaum","email":"dixieday@aol.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen is a longtime local food writer, author, and cook. Her books include The Art of Vintage Cocktails (Egg & Dart Press), World of Doughnuts (Egg & Dart Press); Kids in the Kitchen: Fun Food (Williams Sonoma); Honey from Flower to Table (Chronicle Books) and The Astrology Cookbook: A Cosmic Guide to Feasts of Love (Manic D Press). She has studied organic farming at UCSC and holds a certificate in Ecological Horticulture from the Center for Agroecology and Sustainable Food Systems. She does frequent cooking demonstrations at local farmers’ markets and has taught food writing at Media Alliance in San Francisco and the Continuing Education program at Stanford University. She has been the lead restaurant critic for the San Francisco Bay Guardian as well as for San Francisco magazine. She has been an assistant chef at the Headlands Center for the Arts, an artists' residency program located in the Marin Headlands, and a production cook at the Marin Sun Farms Cafe in Pt Reyes Station. After some 20 years in San Francisco interspersed with stints in Oakland, Santa Cruz, Brooklyn, and Manhattan, she recently moved to Sonoma county but still writes in San Francisco several days a week.","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":"sjrosenbaum","facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/46bf004da7b42de11bfd2b1614ecadcf?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/stephanie-rosenbaum"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_52314":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_52314","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"52314","score":null,"sort":[1354938122000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"gluten-free-latkes-for-hanukkah","title":"Gluten-Free Latkes for Hanukkah","publishDate":1354938122,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52367\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/finished-latkes1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-52367\" title=\"Gluten-Free Latkes with Apple Sauce and Sour Cream for Hanukkah\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/finished-latkes1000.jpg\" alt=\"Gluten-Free Latkes with Apple Sauce and Sour Cream for Hanukkah\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gluten-Free Latkes with Apple Sauce and Sour Cream for Hanukkah\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Happy \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanukkah\">Hanukkah\u003c/a>! The Jewish festival of lights starts this Saturday and runs for eight delicious, fried-food-filled days. If you're not celebrating this holiday, now's the time to start hinting about how much you love latkes to all your Jewish friends. Do this and we will feel compelled to feed you; it's just in our blood. (It's more believable if you get the pronunciation right: \u003cem>laht-kuh,\u003c/em> not \u003cem>laht-kee.\u003c/em>) Ever since I moved to the Bay Area twenty-two years ago, I've thrown an annual Hanukkah latke party. People invited to that very first one have started emailing me this week, wondering when and where this year's shindig will be. Anyone once invited assumes lifelong latke-party privileges. Some of my friends only know each other through this annual event, but come December, they'll greet each other like old pals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fried food and festivity will do that to a person. What's a latke, you ask? A grated potato-and-onion pancake, thickened with eggs and matzoh meal or flour to something much more than the sum of its hash brown-like parts. At this time of year, the usual challenge for food writers of the \u003cem>-baum, -stein,\u003c/em> and \u003cem>-berg\u003c/em> variety is to come up with nifty spins on tradition, ditching the typical potato base for any number of tuber, root, or squash-based concoctions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe it's different if you have a big family demanding latkes for all eight days, then roiling with potato-induced ennui by day four. In my experience, few people make latkes year-round, and few people make them more than once or twice even during Hanukkah. Really, with such rare days devoted to latkes, there's no time to get bored even with good old Bubbeleh's latkes, and no real reason, in my book, to drive yourself crazy trying to make zucchini-parmesan latkes, parsnip-celery root latkes, sweet apple latkes, and the like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But this year, I know I'll have a few people requesting a gluten-free edition of my \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/12/13/latkes/\">classic potato latkes\u003c/a>. No problem! My solution? Just leave out the matzoh meal and add back in a little more potato, in the form of potato starch. A dry white powder similar to cornstarch, potato starch can be found in the kosher or baking section of most supermarkets (If you can't find it among the boxes of matzoh meal and potato-pancake mix, look for it with the other alternative flours in the baking or health-food sections of the supermarket.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the tricks of my latke technique is to squeeze out all the excess liquid from the grated potatoes. After you've let the squeezed-out liquid sit for a few minutes, you'll find that the excess potato starch has settled down to the bottom of the bowl in a slushy, cream-colored layer. You pour off the extra liquid and mix the extra potato starch back into the potatoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, since there's already potato starch in the pancakes, why not just add more of the same in lieu of the matzoh meal or flour? No need for xanthum gum or tapioca, just more of what makes the potato work so well for frying in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can, of course, use a mixture of regular and sweet potatoes, or potatoes and rutabaga, or potatoes and parsnip, if you need such excitement from your latkes. I'd suggest a rough 3:1 ratio of potato to alternate tuber/root, and don't skimp on the salt and freshly ground pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I believe, strongly, that latkes should be made to order, not frozen and reheated or made by the double-dozen and left to wilt greasily in a warm oven. This may also have something to do with why they only show up once a year at my house. Anyone wants to talk to you, they know where to find you: in front of the stove, in a grease-splatted apron.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also vote, early and often, for homemade applesauce, which is nothing more than rough-chopped apples simmered gently in a generous splash of apple juice or apple cider until they collapse at the poke of a spoon. You can leave them unpeeled, then crank your skin-studded mass through a food mill for a smooth, rosy puree. Or you can peel beforehand and beat the cooked mixture into a chunky mash with a wooden spoon, or aim for a smoother puree with a whisk or immersion blender. People eat this up with a spoon, no sugar or cinnamon needed. I've also made lovely roasted applesauce, using Judy Rogers' \u003ca href=\"http://www.food52.com/blog/2693_judy_rodgers_roasted_applesauce_and_savory_apple_charlottes\">Roasted Applesauce\u003c/a> from the Zuni Cafe Cookbook. Adding a generous pinch of salt to the apples as they're cooking is a nice touch when you're serving the applesauce as a part of a savory plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sour cream, the other classic accompaniment, should be the real, no-additives thing (I like \u003ca href=\"http://cloverstornetta.com/products/natural-dairy/sour-cream/regular/\">Clover\u003c/a>'s natural sour cream); if you don't want the fat, admit that you're kidding yourself and then go for nonfat Greek yogurt rather than fakey, creepily thickened \"lite\" sour cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52395\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/latke-ingredients500.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-52395\" title=\"Gluten-Free Latke Ingredients\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/latke-ingredients500.jpg\" alt=\"Gluten-Free Latke Ingredients\" width=\"400\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gluten-Free Latke Ingredients\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Gluten-Free Latkes for Hanukkah\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPotatoes can take a lot of salt and pepper. Cook a tester latke to check for seasoning before you start frying up the whole batch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation Time:\u003c/strong> 25 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 20 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 45 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> About 20 latkes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>4 medium-to-large baking potatoes, about 2 1/2 lbs (I like Yukon Golds or russets)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 yellow onion, peeled and halved\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 eggs, separated\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup potato starch\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 tsp kosher salt, or to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Freshly ground pepper, to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Vegetable oil for frying\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Into a colander suspended over a large bowl, coarsely grate potatoes and onion using the large holes of a box grater. Squeeze and wring excess liquid out of potato mixture, either by pressing it through a ricer, wrapping and squeezing it in a clean tea towel, or just by grabbing handfuls and squeezing vigorously. Let potato mixture drain through the colander for a few minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Lift up colander and pour off excess liquid below, reserving the layer of potato starch at the bottom. Dump grated potatoes on top of potato starch, and mix thoroughly, being sure to scrape up the starch and mix well into the potatoes. Add dry potato starch, egg yolks, salt, and pepper and mix well.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a separate bowl, using a whisk or a hand-held electric mixer, beat egg whites to stiff peaks. Fold egg whites into potato mixture.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a heavy, preferably cast-iron frying pan or skillet, heat 1/4 inch of vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Drop in a shred of potato; when it sizzles and bubbles, slide in as many large spoonfuls of potato mixture as you can without crowding. Fry over medium heat, turning once, until pancakes are well-browned. Add more oil as necessary for subsequent batches, but make sure to get it good and hot before adding the potatoes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Drain on paper towels and serve immediately with sour cream and applesauce.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/squeezing-potato-mixture500.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-52382\" title=\"Squeezing the potato mixture\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/squeezing-potato-mixture500-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Squeezing the potato mixture\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/pour-off-liquid500.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-52381\" title=\"Pour off liquid but reserve potato starch in the bowl\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/pour-off-liquid500-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Pour off liquid but reserve potato starch in the bowl\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/whipped-egg-whites-potato500.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-52383\" title=\"Whipped egg whites and potato mixture\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/whipped-egg-whites-potato500-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Whipped egg whites and potato mixture\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/fold-egg-whites-into-mixture500.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-52384\" title=\"Fold egg whites into potato mixture\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/fold-egg-whites-into-mixture500-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Fold egg whites into potato mixture\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/potato-ready-for-frying500.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-52380\" title=\"Potato mixture ready for frying\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/potato-ready-for-frying500-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Potato mixture ready for frying\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/frying-latkes500.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-52378\" title=\"Frying the latkes\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/frying-latkes500-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Frying the latkes\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Frying up latkes for Hanukkah? Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen shares an easy trick for making them deliciously gluten-free. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1571963640,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":17,"wordCount":1219},"headData":{"title":"Gluten-Free Latkes for Hanukkah | KQED","description":"Frying up latkes for Hanukkah? Stephanie Rosenbaum Klassen shares an easy trick for making them deliciously gluten-free. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Gluten-Free Latkes for Hanukkah","datePublished":"2012-12-08T03:42:02.000Z","dateModified":"2019-10-25T00:34:00.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"52314 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=52314","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/12/07/gluten-free-latkes-for-hanukkah/","disqusTitle":"Gluten-Free Latkes for Hanukkah","path":"/bayareabites/52314/gluten-free-latkes-for-hanukkah","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52367\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/finished-latkes1000.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-52367\" title=\"Gluten-Free Latkes with Apple Sauce and Sour Cream for Hanukkah\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/finished-latkes1000.jpg\" alt=\"Gluten-Free Latkes with Apple Sauce and Sour Cream for Hanukkah\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gluten-Free Latkes with Apple Sauce and Sour Cream for Hanukkah\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Happy \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanukkah\">Hanukkah\u003c/a>! The Jewish festival of lights starts this Saturday and runs for eight delicious, fried-food-filled days. If you're not celebrating this holiday, now's the time to start hinting about how much you love latkes to all your Jewish friends. Do this and we will feel compelled to feed you; it's just in our blood. (It's more believable if you get the pronunciation right: \u003cem>laht-kuh,\u003c/em> not \u003cem>laht-kee.\u003c/em>) Ever since I moved to the Bay Area twenty-two years ago, I've thrown an annual Hanukkah latke party. People invited to that very first one have started emailing me this week, wondering when and where this year's shindig will be. Anyone once invited assumes lifelong latke-party privileges. Some of my friends only know each other through this annual event, but come December, they'll greet each other like old pals.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fried food and festivity will do that to a person. What's a latke, you ask? A grated potato-and-onion pancake, thickened with eggs and matzoh meal or flour to something much more than the sum of its hash brown-like parts. At this time of year, the usual challenge for food writers of the \u003cem>-baum, -stein,\u003c/em> and \u003cem>-berg\u003c/em> variety is to come up with nifty spins on tradition, ditching the typical potato base for any number of tuber, root, or squash-based concoctions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maybe it's different if you have a big family demanding latkes for all eight days, then roiling with potato-induced ennui by day four. In my experience, few people make latkes year-round, and few people make them more than once or twice even during Hanukkah. Really, with such rare days devoted to latkes, there's no time to get bored even with good old Bubbeleh's latkes, and no real reason, in my book, to drive yourself crazy trying to make zucchini-parmesan latkes, parsnip-celery root latkes, sweet apple latkes, and the like.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But this year, I know I'll have a few people requesting a gluten-free edition of my \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/12/13/latkes/\">classic potato latkes\u003c/a>. No problem! My solution? Just leave out the matzoh meal and add back in a little more potato, in the form of potato starch. A dry white powder similar to cornstarch, potato starch can be found in the kosher or baking section of most supermarkets (If you can't find it among the boxes of matzoh meal and potato-pancake mix, look for it with the other alternative flours in the baking or health-food sections of the supermarket.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>One of the tricks of my latke technique is to squeeze out all the excess liquid from the grated potatoes. After you've let the squeezed-out liquid sit for a few minutes, you'll find that the excess potato starch has settled down to the bottom of the bowl in a slushy, cream-colored layer. You pour off the extra liquid and mix the extra potato starch back into the potatoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, since there's already potato starch in the pancakes, why not just add more of the same in lieu of the matzoh meal or flour? No need for xanthum gum or tapioca, just more of what makes the potato work so well for frying in the first place.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can, of course, use a mixture of regular and sweet potatoes, or potatoes and rutabaga, or potatoes and parsnip, if you need such excitement from your latkes. I'd suggest a rough 3:1 ratio of potato to alternate tuber/root, and don't skimp on the salt and freshly ground pepper.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I believe, strongly, that latkes should be made to order, not frozen and reheated or made by the double-dozen and left to wilt greasily in a warm oven. This may also have something to do with why they only show up once a year at my house. Anyone wants to talk to you, they know where to find you: in front of the stove, in a grease-splatted apron.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I also vote, early and often, for homemade applesauce, which is nothing more than rough-chopped apples simmered gently in a generous splash of apple juice or apple cider until they collapse at the poke of a spoon. You can leave them unpeeled, then crank your skin-studded mass through a food mill for a smooth, rosy puree. Or you can peel beforehand and beat the cooked mixture into a chunky mash with a wooden spoon, or aim for a smoother puree with a whisk or immersion blender. People eat this up with a spoon, no sugar or cinnamon needed. I've also made lovely roasted applesauce, using Judy Rogers' \u003ca href=\"http://www.food52.com/blog/2693_judy_rodgers_roasted_applesauce_and_savory_apple_charlottes\">Roasted Applesauce\u003c/a> from the Zuni Cafe Cookbook. Adding a generous pinch of salt to the apples as they're cooking is a nice touch when you're serving the applesauce as a part of a savory plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sour cream, the other classic accompaniment, should be the real, no-additives thing (I like \u003ca href=\"http://cloverstornetta.com/products/natural-dairy/sour-cream/regular/\">Clover\u003c/a>'s natural sour cream); if you don't want the fat, admit that you're kidding yourself and then go for nonfat Greek yogurt rather than fakey, creepily thickened \"lite\" sour cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_52395\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/latke-ingredients500.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-52395\" title=\"Gluten-Free Latke Ingredients\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/latke-ingredients500.jpg\" alt=\"Gluten-Free Latke Ingredients\" width=\"400\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gluten-Free Latke Ingredients\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Gluten-Free Latkes for Hanukkah\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPotatoes can take a lot of salt and pepper. Cook a tester latke to check for seasoning before you start frying up the whole batch.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation Time:\u003c/strong> 25 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cook Time:\u003c/strong> 20 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Total Time:\u003c/strong> 45 minutes\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Yield:\u003c/strong> About 20 latkes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>4 medium-to-large baking potatoes, about 2 1/2 lbs (I like Yukon Golds or russets)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 yellow onion, peeled and halved\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 eggs, separated\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup potato starch\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 tsp kosher salt, or to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Freshly ground pepper, to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Vegetable oil for frying\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Into a colander suspended over a large bowl, coarsely grate potatoes and onion using the large holes of a box grater. Squeeze and wring excess liquid out of potato mixture, either by pressing it through a ricer, wrapping and squeezing it in a clean tea towel, or just by grabbing handfuls and squeezing vigorously. Let potato mixture drain through the colander for a few minutes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Lift up colander and pour off excess liquid below, reserving the layer of potato starch at the bottom. Dump grated potatoes on top of potato starch, and mix thoroughly, being sure to scrape up the starch and mix well into the potatoes. Add dry potato starch, egg yolks, salt, and pepper and mix well.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a separate bowl, using a whisk or a hand-held electric mixer, beat egg whites to stiff peaks. Fold egg whites into potato mixture.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>In a heavy, preferably cast-iron frying pan or skillet, heat 1/4 inch of vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Drop in a shred of potato; when it sizzles and bubbles, slide in as many large spoonfuls of potato mixture as you can without crowding. Fry over medium heat, turning once, until pancakes are well-browned. Add more oil as necessary for subsequent batches, but make sure to get it good and hot before adding the potatoes.\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Drain on paper towels and serve immediately with sour cream and applesauce.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/squeezing-potato-mixture500.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-52382\" title=\"Squeezing the potato mixture\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/squeezing-potato-mixture500-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Squeezing the potato mixture\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/pour-off-liquid500.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-52381\" title=\"Pour off liquid but reserve potato starch in the bowl\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/pour-off-liquid500-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Pour off liquid but reserve potato starch in the bowl\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/whipped-egg-whites-potato500.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-52383\" title=\"Whipped egg whites and potato mixture\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/whipped-egg-whites-potato500-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Whipped egg whites and potato mixture\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/fold-egg-whites-into-mixture500.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-52384\" title=\"Fold egg whites into potato mixture\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/fold-egg-whites-into-mixture500-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Fold egg whites into potato mixture\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/potato-ready-for-frying500.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-52380\" title=\"Potato mixture ready for frying\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/potato-ready-for-frying500-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Potato mixture ready for frying\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\">\u003c/a>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/frying-latkes500.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"alignnone size-thumbnail wp-image-52378\" title=\"Frying the latkes\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/12/frying-latkes500-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Frying the latkes\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/52314/gluten-free-latkes-for-hanukkah","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_12550","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_10905","bayareabites_138","bayareabites_1671","bayareabites_577","bayareabites_3141","bayareabites_300","bayareabites_530","bayareabites_2962","bayareabites_12693"],"featImg":"bayareabites_52398","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_8772":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_8772","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"8772","score":null,"sort":[1260721933000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"latkes","title":"Latkes","publishDate":1260721933,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/latkes300.jpg\" alt=\"latkes\" title=\"latkes\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-9028\">When it comes to latkes, a lot of quibbles come up before the first potato is even peeled. Thick and hefty, or crispy-lacy? Do you hand-grate the potato or process it to mush? Squeeze out the liquid or let it be? Par-boil the potatoes, or avoid the potato altogether and head for the untrammeled wilds of zucchini with parmesan or yams with ginger? Can bacon be involved? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But all of these questions are nothing compared to the Big One. Which is, of course, OMG these latkes are SO GOOD why don't you make them EVERY NIGHT???\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This, of course, is a question for sages and Jewish mothers everywhere to contemplate. The answer may become clear in the aftermath of a good latke fry-up, when bits of shredded potato are shriveling to blackness all over the counter, and a fine mist of splattered oil surrounds the stove. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Right now, though, Chanukah has just begun, and latke enthusiasm is at its height. Why potato pancakes for Chanukah, you ask? First, there's the holiday's celebration of scrappiness trumping might, the humble potato standing in for the outnumbered, outpowered but triumphant Maccabees. Able to reclaim their desecrated temple, so the story goes, the Jews found only one day's worth of oil for light, with the nearest source of consecrated oil a week's journey away. Then the little miracle: the one day's worth of oil burned for eight days, hence the eight days of Chanukah, and the dictum to fry, fry, fry. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anything fried will work, and Jews around the world fry up all kinds of different things. In Israel, the go-to Chanukah treat is \u003cem>soufganiot,\u003c/em> jelly-filled doughnuts dusted with powdered sugar. In Eastern Europe, however, winter meant root vegetables, most likely fried in chicken or goose fat, served with applesauce for sweetness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in the Bay Area, we can do a little of each: potatoes for cultural tradition, fried in olive oil for religious significance, or just because it's local and we use olive oil for everything, anyway. If you have chicken fat or goose fat or duck fat lying around looking for trouble, use it by all means, perhaps half-and-half with a mild vegetable oil like canola so that the simple potato taste isn't clobbered by poultry-ness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, on to technique. Since I am not your mother, or (more importantly) your new Jewish husband's mother, nothing I tell you need influence your latke-making in the least if you already love your latkes. But if, sadly, you've been relying all these years on those nasty frozen ones that taste like wadded-up flannel pajamas, or your children have suddenly reached latke-eating age and you feel compelled to hand down a little tradition, even if otherwise you order in pad thai, burritos or \u003cem>aloo gobi\u003c/em> every night of the week, here is everything you need to know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First, if you're going to fry, fry for a crowd. Making latkes is a festive event, and the more people around, the less you'll notice what a giant mess all that spattering oil has made of your kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you start in with the latkes, you won't have the focus or energy for anything else. Since most people's appetite for potato pancakes is limitless, especially if they're only made once a year, you should put together some satisfying one-pot thing the night before, like \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/28/borscht-for-chanukah/\">hot beet borscht\u003c/a> or a slow-cooked \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Braised-Beef-Brisket-355532\">brisket\u003c/a>, with challah or rye bread on the side. This also gives you something to throw at your guests as they start circling the stove and eyeing your spatula like starving hyenas, drawn by the irresistible diner whiff of sizzling potatoes, onion, and grease. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Second, grate by hand. Like writing thank you notes or taking off your mascara before bed, this process looms much larger in the imagination than in actual minutes spent. Use the coarse holes on a big box grater, and you'll get perfect texture and minimal clean-up. No need to peel the potatoes, especially if you're using organic spuds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alternate onion and potato as you grate, since the onion juices will help keep the potato shreds from oxidizing into gray yuck as you go. Another thing: don't grate more than you can fry up in a few batches. If you're frying for a crowd, don't be tempted to grate up ahead of time. Liquid will seep, potatoes will blacken, and you'll end up with a bowl of unpleasant, gray-black soupy sludge that even frying cannot redeem. Instead, grate, mix, fry, repeat. (See \"Why don't we have these every night?\", above.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once your potatoes and onions are grated, scoop the shreds into a large colander set over a big bowl. Now, get your hands into that potato mound and act like you're wringing a pair of very wet socks. Squeeze and wring, squeeze and wring, releasing as much liquid as possible. Sex educator and cultural critic Susie Bright, a woman who knows how to find the right tool for the job, swears by a \u003ca href=\"http://susiebright.blogs.com/susie_brights_journal_/2006/12/the_leauge_of_a.html\">potato ricer\u003c/a> for this; others load their taters into clean tea towels and wring away. Me, I'm a two-hands, no-equipment kind of lady, but follow your inclinations. When all the potatoes look well-wrung, step back and let the liquid collected in the bowl stand for a couple of minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, separate your eggs, dropping the egg whites into a big bowl and putting the yolks aside. Hand the egg white to a helpful guest, and ask them to whisk them into stiff peaks. Here, technology helps; like natural childbirth, whisking egg whites with nothing but muscle tone and a whisk is admirable but achingly slow. If you don't have a hand-held electric mixer, just tell people to pass the whisk along when they tire out. Line a cookie sheet with paper towels and place it near (but not within catching-on-fire range of) the stove.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lift up your colander of potatoes and onion. Underneath, you'll see a pool of brownish liquid with a squeaky layer of pinkish-tan potato starch at the bottom. Pour off the liquid, then dump the grated potato on top of the starch. Add the egg yolks, the matzoh meal or flour, and plenty of salt and pepper. Mix it all together, being sure to scrape up the extra starch from the bottom of the bowl. Track down that bowl of egg whites. Quickly, scoop the whites onto the potato mixture, and using a down-and-around motion, fold the whites into the grated potato. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat up a couple of wide, heavy frying pans (cast iron works best). Add about 1/2 inch of oil to each one, and get that oil really good and hot. (Buy a fresh bottle of oil for this endeavor. You'll need a lot more than you think.) When a shred of potato sputters and bubbles, slide as many large spoonfuls of potato as you can fit into the pan without crowding. Fry, turning once, until pancakes are a rich mahogany brown. Drain on paper towels, blotting off as much grease as possible so they'll stay crisp. If necessary, keep the first batch warm in a 250°F oven while you fry up another round. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you fry, your friends and family will exhort you to come, sit down, eat. Ignore them. This is the martyrdom known to every latke maker: you must stand and work while others sit and enjoy. (See \"Why don't we have these every night?\", above.) Serve with sour cream and applesauce. You might think you could go all California and use salsa or fig chutney instead, but you would be wrong. Or not; maybe latkes are \u003cem>sensational\u003c/em> with fig chutney. (Gravy, I've been told, is wonderful on matzoh balls.) But try trusting your inner grandmother first.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Latkes\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis recipe makes thin, crispy latkes, more hash brown than hockey puck, because you can always make room for one more latke when they're light. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 1/2 lbs potatoes, well scrubbed\u003cbr>\n1 large yellow onion, peeled\u003cbr>\n2 eggs, separated\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons flour or matzoh meal\u003cbr>\n2 tsp salt, or to taste\u003cbr>\nFreshly ground pepper\u003cbr>\nVegetable oil, for frying, or whatever fat you want (Yes, I'm sure bacon fat would be delicious, but really, must you?)\u003cbr>\nSour cream and applesauce, for serving\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Grate potatoes and onion alternately. Scoop grated mixture into a large colander suspended over a large bowl. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Squeeze and wring excess liquid out of potato mixture. Let potato mixture drain for a few minutes. Lift up colander, and pour off excess liquid below, reserving the layer of potato starch at the bottom. Dump grated potatoes on top of potato starch, and mix in egg yolks, flour, salt, and pepper, making sure to scrape the layer of potato starch into the mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Beat egg whites to stiff peaks. Fold egg whites into potato mixture. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Heat 1/2 inch of vegetable oil in a heavy frying pan. Drop in a shred of potato; when it sizzles and bubbles, slide in as many large spoonfuls of potato mixture as you can without crowding. Fry over medium-high heat, turning once, until pancakes are well-browned. Add more oil as necessary for subsequent batches, but make sure to get it good and hot before adding the potatoes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately with sour cream and applesauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 20 latkes.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Since I am not your mother, or your new Jewish husband's mother, if you already love your latkes, nothing I tell you need influence you in the least. But if you've been relying, sadly, on those nasty frozen ones that taste like wadded-up flannel pajamas all these years, or your children have suddenly reached latke-eating age and you feel compelled to hand down a little tradition, here is everything you need to know to make a perfect latke. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1386009333,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":26,"wordCount":1614},"headData":{"title":"Latkes | KQED","description":"Since I am not your mother, or your new Jewish husband's mother, if you already love your latkes, nothing I tell you need influence you in the least. But if you've been relying, sadly, on those nasty frozen ones that taste like wadded-up flannel pajamas all these years, or your children have suddenly reached latke-eating age and you feel compelled to hand down a little tradition, here is everything you need to know to make a perfect latke. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Latkes","datePublished":"2009-12-13T16:32:13.000Z","dateModified":"2013-12-02T18:35:33.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"8772 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=8772","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/12/13/latkes/","disqusTitle":"Latkes","path":"/bayareabites/8772/latkes","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/12/latkes300.jpg\" alt=\"latkes\" title=\"latkes\" width=\"300\" height=\"400\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-9028\">When it comes to latkes, a lot of quibbles come up before the first potato is even peeled. Thick and hefty, or crispy-lacy? Do you hand-grate the potato or process it to mush? Squeeze out the liquid or let it be? Par-boil the potatoes, or avoid the potato altogether and head for the untrammeled wilds of zucchini with parmesan or yams with ginger? Can bacon be involved? \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But all of these questions are nothing compared to the Big One. Which is, of course, OMG these latkes are SO GOOD why don't you make them EVERY NIGHT???\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This, of course, is a question for sages and Jewish mothers everywhere to contemplate. The answer may become clear in the aftermath of a good latke fry-up, when bits of shredded potato are shriveling to blackness all over the counter, and a fine mist of splattered oil surrounds the stove. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Right now, though, Chanukah has just begun, and latke enthusiasm is at its height. Why potato pancakes for Chanukah, you ask? First, there's the holiday's celebration of scrappiness trumping might, the humble potato standing in for the outnumbered, outpowered but triumphant Maccabees. Able to reclaim their desecrated temple, so the story goes, the Jews found only one day's worth of oil for light, with the nearest source of consecrated oil a week's journey away. Then the little miracle: the one day's worth of oil burned for eight days, hence the eight days of Chanukah, and the dictum to fry, fry, fry. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Anything fried will work, and Jews around the world fry up all kinds of different things. In Israel, the go-to Chanukah treat is \u003cem>soufganiot,\u003c/em> jelly-filled doughnuts dusted with powdered sugar. In Eastern Europe, however, winter meant root vegetables, most likely fried in chicken or goose fat, served with applesauce for sweetness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here in the Bay Area, we can do a little of each: potatoes for cultural tradition, fried in olive oil for religious significance, or just because it's local and we use olive oil for everything, anyway. If you have chicken fat or goose fat or duck fat lying around looking for trouble, use it by all means, perhaps half-and-half with a mild vegetable oil like canola so that the simple potato taste isn't clobbered by poultry-ness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, on to technique. Since I am not your mother, or (more importantly) your new Jewish husband's mother, nothing I tell you need influence your latke-making in the least if you already love your latkes. But if, sadly, you've been relying all these years on those nasty frozen ones that taste like wadded-up flannel pajamas, or your children have suddenly reached latke-eating age and you feel compelled to hand down a little tradition, even if otherwise you order in pad thai, burritos or \u003cem>aloo gobi\u003c/em> every night of the week, here is everything you need to know.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>First, if you're going to fry, fry for a crowd. Making latkes is a festive event, and the more people around, the less you'll notice what a giant mess all that spattering oil has made of your kitchen. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once you start in with the latkes, you won't have the focus or energy for anything else. Since most people's appetite for potato pancakes is limitless, especially if they're only made once a year, you should put together some satisfying one-pot thing the night before, like \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/11/28/borscht-for-chanukah/\">hot beet borscht\u003c/a> or a slow-cooked \u003ca href=\"http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Braised-Beef-Brisket-355532\">brisket\u003c/a>, with challah or rye bread on the side. This also gives you something to throw at your guests as they start circling the stove and eyeing your spatula like starving hyenas, drawn by the irresistible diner whiff of sizzling potatoes, onion, and grease. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Second, grate by hand. Like writing thank you notes or taking off your mascara before bed, this process looms much larger in the imagination than in actual minutes spent. Use the coarse holes on a big box grater, and you'll get perfect texture and minimal clean-up. No need to peel the potatoes, especially if you're using organic spuds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alternate onion and potato as you grate, since the onion juices will help keep the potato shreds from oxidizing into gray yuck as you go. Another thing: don't grate more than you can fry up in a few batches. If you're frying for a crowd, don't be tempted to grate up ahead of time. Liquid will seep, potatoes will blacken, and you'll end up with a bowl of unpleasant, gray-black soupy sludge that even frying cannot redeem. Instead, grate, mix, fry, repeat. (See \"Why don't we have these every night?\", above.) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once your potatoes and onions are grated, scoop the shreds into a large colander set over a big bowl. Now, get your hands into that potato mound and act like you're wringing a pair of very wet socks. Squeeze and wring, squeeze and wring, releasing as much liquid as possible. Sex educator and cultural critic Susie Bright, a woman who knows how to find the right tool for the job, swears by a \u003ca href=\"http://susiebright.blogs.com/susie_brights_journal_/2006/12/the_leauge_of_a.html\">potato ricer\u003c/a> for this; others load their taters into clean tea towels and wring away. Me, I'm a two-hands, no-equipment kind of lady, but follow your inclinations. When all the potatoes look well-wrung, step back and let the liquid collected in the bowl stand for a couple of minutes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, separate your eggs, dropping the egg whites into a big bowl and putting the yolks aside. Hand the egg white to a helpful guest, and ask them to whisk them into stiff peaks. Here, technology helps; like natural childbirth, whisking egg whites with nothing but muscle tone and a whisk is admirable but achingly slow. If you don't have a hand-held electric mixer, just tell people to pass the whisk along when they tire out. Line a cookie sheet with paper towels and place it near (but not within catching-on-fire range of) the stove.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lift up your colander of potatoes and onion. Underneath, you'll see a pool of brownish liquid with a squeaky layer of pinkish-tan potato starch at the bottom. Pour off the liquid, then dump the grated potato on top of the starch. Add the egg yolks, the matzoh meal or flour, and plenty of salt and pepper. Mix it all together, being sure to scrape up the extra starch from the bottom of the bowl. Track down that bowl of egg whites. Quickly, scoop the whites onto the potato mixture, and using a down-and-around motion, fold the whites into the grated potato. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat up a couple of wide, heavy frying pans (cast iron works best). Add about 1/2 inch of oil to each one, and get that oil really good and hot. (Buy a fresh bottle of oil for this endeavor. You'll need a lot more than you think.) When a shred of potato sputters and bubbles, slide as many large spoonfuls of potato as you can fit into the pan without crowding. Fry, turning once, until pancakes are a rich mahogany brown. Drain on paper towels, blotting off as much grease as possible so they'll stay crisp. If necessary, keep the first batch warm in a 250°F oven while you fry up another round. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you fry, your friends and family will exhort you to come, sit down, eat. Ignore them. This is the martyrdom known to every latke maker: you must stand and work while others sit and enjoy. (See \"Why don't we have these every night?\", above.) Serve with sour cream and applesauce. You might think you could go all California and use salsa or fig chutney instead, but you would be wrong. Or not; maybe latkes are \u003cem>sensational\u003c/em> with fig chutney. (Gravy, I've been told, is wonderful on matzoh balls.) But try trusting your inner grandmother first.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Latkes\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThis recipe makes thin, crispy latkes, more hash brown than hockey puck, because you can always make room for one more latke when they're light. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n2 1/2 lbs potatoes, well scrubbed\u003cbr>\n1 large yellow onion, peeled\u003cbr>\n2 eggs, separated\u003cbr>\n3 tablespoons flour or matzoh meal\u003cbr>\n2 tsp salt, or to taste\u003cbr>\nFreshly ground pepper\u003cbr>\nVegetable oil, for frying, or whatever fat you want (Yes, I'm sure bacon fat would be delicious, but really, must you?)\u003cbr>\nSour cream and applesauce, for serving\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1. Grate potatoes and onion alternately. Scoop grated mixture into a large colander suspended over a large bowl. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2. Squeeze and wring excess liquid out of potato mixture. Let potato mixture drain for a few minutes. Lift up colander, and pour off excess liquid below, reserving the layer of potato starch at the bottom. Dump grated potatoes on top of potato starch, and mix in egg yolks, flour, salt, and pepper, making sure to scrape the layer of potato starch into the mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3. Beat egg whites to stiff peaks. Fold egg whites into potato mixture. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4. Heat 1/2 inch of vegetable oil in a heavy frying pan. Drop in a shred of potato; when it sizzles and bubbles, slide in as many large spoonfuls of potato mixture as you can without crowding. Fry over medium-high heat, turning once, until pancakes are well-browned. Add more oil as necessary for subsequent batches, but make sure to get it good and hot before adding the potatoes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately with sour cream and applesauce. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 20 latkes.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/8772/latkes","authors":["5038"],"categories":["bayareabites_2695","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_3140","bayareabites_3142","bayareabites_1671","bayareabites_71","bayareabites_577","bayareabites_3141"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. 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