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She has over 16 years of experience in book and online publishing, and a lifetime of experience in the kitchen. \r\n\r\nHer first cookbook, Home Baked Comfort, was published in 2011; her second cookbook, Baby & Toddler On the Go, was published in April 2013; and her third cookbook, Williams-Sonoma Dessert of the Day, was published in October 2013. \r\n\r\nShe was the first blogger on KQED’s Bay Area Bites blog, which launched in 2005, and previously worked as a professional baker at La Farine French Bakery in Oakland, CA. She lives in Petaluma with her husband and their child, whom she cooks for everyday. 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I loved how they were portable, cheap and easy to make—just pour boiling water over them and wait for them to cook. Salt and pepper were the only seasonings I used to enhance my ramen. Though they weren’t much, I felt like that perfect duo took my noodles to another level. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside tag=\"noodles2020\" label=\"More Noodles.\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">All that changed when I entered high school. One day at lunch, the usual massive line of cool kids ditched the packaged, unflavored school lunch for ramen noodles in a cup. Displayed on the microwave table near the lunch table was an array of spices and flavorings beyond my trusted salt and pepper: Latin brands of hot sauce and a green bottle of squeezable lemon juice. My eyes widened as I watched my peers douse their noodles with these spicy, sour ingredients. My friend, who stood next to me, even sprinkled a few Flamin’ Hot Cheetos on her noodles. I quickly became curious about trying it on my own unflavored cup. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After studying peers who went before me, I followed suit and added a good amount of hot sauce and lemon juice. I stirred the noodles around slowly to ensure that every noodle was equally coated, with specks of hot sauce floating around the broth. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138979\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138979\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"Array of instant ramen noodles\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Chriss / Unsplash\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I twirled the noodles with my plastic fork and took a bite. My world turned into that scene from \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ratatouille \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">where Remy discovered flavor combinations for the very first time. The saltiness from the broth was balanced nicely with the acidity of the lemon juice. The hot sauce tingled on my tongue right after saltiness and acidity dissipated. From that moment, I was a convert. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As I’ve gotten older, I've discovered many methods to dress my instant ramen: sauteed garlic pepper prawns, fried sunny side up eggs, teriyaki salmon skewers with sesame seeds—I’ve tried them all. Elevating this simple cup of noodles, so familiar and comfortable, offered a permission for curiosity and ways to explore more new flavor combinations—with the exception of the sprinkled Flamin’ Hot Cheetos on my ramen. I don’t think I'll ever be convinced to try that. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"A simple cup of noodles can easily be transformed. For writer Anthonia Onyejekwe, all it took was standing in the high school lunch line. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621632070,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":8,"wordCount":397},"headData":{"title":"Instant Ramen: How a Simple Cup of Noodles Can Expand a Palate | KQED","description":"A simple cup of noodles can easily be transformed. For writer Anthonia Onyejekwe, all it took was standing in the high school lunch line. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Instant Ramen: How a Simple Cup of Noodles Can Expand a Palate","datePublished":"2020-10-02T15:00:58.000Z","dateModified":"2021-05-21T21:21:10.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"138978 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=138978","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/10/02/instant-ramen-how-a-simple-cup-of-noodles-can-expand-a-palate/","disqusTitle":"Instant Ramen: How a Simple Cup of Noodles Can Expand a Palate","source":"KQED Noodle Week","sourceUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/noodles","nprByline":"Anthonia Onyejekwe","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/138978/instant-ramen-how-a-simple-cup-of-noodles-can-expand-a-palate","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Growing up, I loved Maruchan’s Instant Ramen noodles in a cup, specifically the shrimp flavor. I loved how they were portable, cheap and easy to make—just pour boiling water over them and wait for them to cook. Salt and pepper were the only seasonings I used to enhance my ramen. Though they weren’t much, I felt like that perfect duo took my noodles to another level. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"noodles2020","label":"More Noodles. "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">All that changed when I entered high school. One day at lunch, the usual massive line of cool kids ditched the packaged, unflavored school lunch for ramen noodles in a cup. Displayed on the microwave table near the lunch table was an array of spices and flavorings beyond my trusted salt and pepper: Latin brands of hot sauce and a green bottle of squeezable lemon juice. My eyes widened as I watched my peers douse their noodles with these spicy, sour ingredients. My friend, who stood next to me, even sprinkled a few Flamin’ Hot Cheetos on her noodles. I quickly became curious about trying it on my own unflavored cup. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After studying peers who went before me, I followed suit and added a good amount of hot sauce and lemon juice. I stirred the noodles around slowly to ensure that every noodle was equally coated, with specks of hot sauce floating around the broth. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138979\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138979\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash-800x450.jpg\" alt=\"Array of instant ramen noodles\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash-800x450.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash-1020x574.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash-160x90.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash-768x432.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/matt-chris-pua-vQQJeTpBmmM-unsplash.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Matt Chriss / Unsplash\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I twirled the noodles with my plastic fork and took a bite. My world turned into that scene from \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Ratatouille \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">where Remy discovered flavor combinations for the very first time. The saltiness from the broth was balanced nicely with the acidity of the lemon juice. The hot sauce tingled on my tongue right after saltiness and acidity dissipated. From that moment, I was a convert. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As I’ve gotten older, I've discovered many methods to dress my instant ramen: sauteed garlic pepper prawns, fried sunny side up eggs, teriyaki salmon skewers with sesame seeds—I’ve tried them all. Elevating this simple cup of noodles, so familiar and comfortable, offered a permission for curiosity and ways to explore more new flavor combinations—with the exception of the sprinkled Flamin’ Hot Cheetos on my ramen. I don’t think I'll ever be convinced to try that. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/138978/instant-ramen-how-a-simple-cup-of-noodles-can-expand-a-palate","authors":["byline_bayareabites_138978"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_17082","bayareabites_10028"],"tags":["bayareabites_16557","bayareabites_744","bayareabites_16621","bayareabites_377","bayareabites_16940"],"featImg":"bayareabites_138980","label":"source_bayareabites_138978"},"bayareabites_138982":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_138982","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"138982","score":null,"sort":[1601650853000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"how-colonialism-brought-a-new-evolution-of-pasta-to-east-africa","title":"How Colonialism Brought a New Evolution of Pasta to East Africa","publishDate":1601650853,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A starch paired with another starch is an already dubious inclination, but spaghetti laced with a berbere-fortified tomato sauce and served on injera is even more so. The two carbs, one splayed flat with the other piled in a nest on top, appear to be unnatural companions on a plate. Yet the occurrence of this pairing in Ethiopian restaurants and homes qualifies this as a dish worth considering. And that consideration leads to a conversation about colonialism. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Italy’s colonial interest in East Africa spread from present-day Eritrea, down the coast of the Red Sea to Somalia and inland to Ethiopia. From the late-19th century to the 1940s, these territories were seized, ruled or occupied. Italy’s monarchy, then its fascist regime, carried out massacres and the subjugation and segregation of people whose land they sought to make their own. If spaghetti appeared in this corner of the world before, this bloody period is one that guaranteed its stay. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside tag=\"noodles2020\" label=\"More Noodles.\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In Somalia, a particular kind of spaghetti dish is ubiquitous. Those noodles are served with suugo suqaar, an often meat-enriched,\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/food/2019/jul/14/recipe-that-reminds-me-of-home-souvlaki-somali-bean-stew\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> xawaash\u003c/span>\u003c/a>-\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">spiced tomato sauce. As with other savory dishes from the coastal nation, a banana is offered on the side to be peeled, chopped and distributed throughout the warmly-spiced pasta, adding both a sweet note and a different texture of starchiness. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In both East African iterations of spaghetti, the preparation and presentation firmly bend the Italian dish towards centuries-old local tastes. The interventions at play, of spices and other starches, have no allegiance to European techniques. This defiance tells a particular story about food’s movement across cultural and national margins. Appropriation is a mode of transit we see often lamented in cultural writing—an erasure of authorship often followed by manufacturing at a capitalistic pace and design. Spaghetti on injera or with suugo suqaar are born out of a different modality: the absorption of a cultural product introduced by abject violence and forced occupation. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://youtu.be/LFmmQ4G9xk4\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There’s something about pasta’s bipartite composition of noodles and sauce that takes well to modifications and possibilities. There’s also what writer Hannah Giorgis called a “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.tastecooking.com/ethiopian-diasporas-long-history-lasagna/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">culinary rebellion\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">” when she wrote about lasagna’s ubiquitous presence among a sea of indigenous fare at Eritrean and Ethiopian gatherings. As Giorgis described it, lasagna in East Africa is a richly spiced, conservatively cheesed version—all revisions that honor the local appetites. It’d be unfair to say all of these choices are political by intention. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138988\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138988\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"a meat and vegetable dish at Somali restaurant Jubba\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of the dishes at Jubba in San Jose. \u003ccite>(KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At San Jose’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/search?q=jubba+kqed&oq=jubba+kqed&aqs=chrome..69i57.2640j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jubba\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Bay Area’s only brick-and-mortar Somali restaurant, you’ll find a menu reflecting the country’s various influences that drifted in via its ports and trading partners. Blending flavors from South Asia, the Middle East and neighboring African nations, Italy’s coercive history in the region lives in the baasto suugo suqaar on the menu. Jubba’s version features tomato paste, tomato sauce, bell peppers, onions, garlic, cilantro and xawaash, a blend of aromatic spices including cinnamon, cumin and cardamom, among others. “It’s a really robust pasta,” said Jubba cook Antonio Gomez, who worked at an Italian restaurant kitchen before joining the kitchen at the South Bay eatery two years ago. “It’s unique. You don’t get that flavor in Italian pasta.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/LTsXeRFMaM/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Owner Amina Nur’s daughter, Leyla Mohamed, has her preferences when it comes to the dish, which can be served with beef, chicken or meat-free. “I like the tuna suugo and my family likes it with ground beef,” Mohamed said. Asked about the Somali’s transformation of Italian pasta, Mohamed sees it simply: “We like flavorful [food]. So it gives it extra flavor instead of it being plain.” Hence the spices, the banana and sometimes even a squeeze of lime juice. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The first instance of an injera-swaddled pasta bite likely came as a circumstance of the two things sharing a plate. A noodle slinking away into a bite of injera and wot. Now, this combination is something that can be ordered at a restaurant where pasta shares equal real estate with native stews and greens on one platter. Suugo with pasta similarly shares a plate and flavor profiles with Somali-born dishes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The source of pasta of course can never be obfuscated and that isn't a righteous venture. The casual way that pasta dishes in East Africa are enjoyed, their \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">juxtapositions of starches and histories, don't rely on that rememberance. Rather historical harms are inoculated from the plate by the imposition of local preferences on foreign ingredients. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Italy has long held ownership of spaghetti, but Ethiopian and Somali chefs evolved the dish away from its colonial origins.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621632446,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":12,"wordCount":826},"headData":{"title":"How Colonialism Brought a New Evolution of Pasta to East Africa | KQED","description":"Italy has long held ownership of spaghetti, but Ethiopian and Somali chefs evolved the dish away from its colonial origins.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"How Colonialism Brought a New Evolution of Pasta to East Africa","datePublished":"2020-10-02T15:00:53.000Z","dateModified":"2021-05-21T21:27:26.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"138982 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=138982","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/10/02/how-colonialism-brought-a-new-evolution-of-pasta-to-east-africa/","disqusTitle":"How Colonialism Brought a New Evolution of Pasta to East Africa","source":"KQED Noodle Week","sourceUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/noodles","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/138982/how-colonialism-brought-a-new-evolution-of-pasta-to-east-africa","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">A starch paired with another starch is an already dubious inclination, but spaghetti laced with a berbere-fortified tomato sauce and served on injera is even more so. The two carbs, one splayed flat with the other piled in a nest on top, appear to be unnatural companions on a plate. Yet the occurrence of this pairing in Ethiopian restaurants and homes qualifies this as a dish worth considering. And that consideration leads to a conversation about colonialism. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Italy’s colonial interest in East Africa spread from present-day Eritrea, down the coast of the Red Sea to Somalia and inland to Ethiopia. From the late-19th century to the 1940s, these territories were seized, ruled or occupied. Italy’s monarchy, then its fascist regime, carried out massacres and the subjugation and segregation of people whose land they sought to make their own. If spaghetti appeared in this corner of the world before, this bloody period is one that guaranteed its stay. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"noodles2020","label":"More Noodles. "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In Somalia, a particular kind of spaghetti dish is ubiquitous. Those noodles are served with suugo suqaar, an often meat-enriched,\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/food/2019/jul/14/recipe-that-reminds-me-of-home-souvlaki-somali-bean-stew\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> xawaash\u003c/span>\u003c/a>-\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">spiced tomato sauce. As with other savory dishes from the coastal nation, a banana is offered on the side to be peeled, chopped and distributed throughout the warmly-spiced pasta, adding both a sweet note and a different texture of starchiness. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In both East African iterations of spaghetti, the preparation and presentation firmly bend the Italian dish towards centuries-old local tastes. The interventions at play, of spices and other starches, have no allegiance to European techniques. This defiance tells a particular story about food’s movement across cultural and national margins. Appropriation is a mode of transit we see often lamented in cultural writing—an erasure of authorship often followed by manufacturing at a capitalistic pace and design. Spaghetti on injera or with suugo suqaar are born out of a different modality: the absorption of a cultural product introduced by abject violence and forced occupation. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/LFmmQ4G9xk4'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/LFmmQ4G9xk4'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">There’s something about pasta’s bipartite composition of noodles and sauce that takes well to modifications and possibilities. There’s also what writer Hannah Giorgis called a “\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.tastecooking.com/ethiopian-diasporas-long-history-lasagna/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">culinary rebellion\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">” when she wrote about lasagna’s ubiquitous presence among a sea of indigenous fare at Eritrean and Ethiopian gatherings. As Giorgis described it, lasagna in East Africa is a richly spiced, conservatively cheesed version—all revisions that honor the local appetites. It’d be unfair to say all of these choices are political by intention. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138988\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138988\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"a meat and vegetable dish at Somali restaurant Jubba\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/IMG_3441-scaled-e1601069423219.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">One of the dishes at Jubba in San Jose. \u003ccite>(KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">At San Jose’s \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.google.com/search?q=jubba+kqed&oq=jubba+kqed&aqs=chrome..69i57.2640j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jubba\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the Bay Area’s only brick-and-mortar Somali restaurant, you’ll find a menu reflecting the country’s various influences that drifted in via its ports and trading partners. Blending flavors from South Asia, the Middle East and neighboring African nations, Italy’s coercive history in the region lives in the baasto suugo suqaar on the menu. Jubba’s version features tomato paste, tomato sauce, bell peppers, onions, garlic, cilantro and xawaash, a blend of aromatic spices including cinnamon, cumin and cardamom, among others. “It’s a really robust pasta,” said Jubba cook Antonio Gomez, who worked at an Italian restaurant kitchen before joining the kitchen at the South Bay eatery two years ago. “It’s unique. You don’t get that flavor in Italian pasta.” \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"LTsXeRFMaM"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Owner Amina Nur’s daughter, Leyla Mohamed, has her preferences when it comes to the dish, which can be served with beef, chicken or meat-free. “I like the tuna suugo and my family likes it with ground beef,” Mohamed said. Asked about the Somali’s transformation of Italian pasta, Mohamed sees it simply: “We like flavorful [food]. So it gives it extra flavor instead of it being plain.” Hence the spices, the banana and sometimes even a squeeze of lime juice. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The first instance of an injera-swaddled pasta bite likely came as a circumstance of the two things sharing a plate. A noodle slinking away into a bite of injera and wot. Now, this combination is something that can be ordered at a restaurant where pasta shares equal real estate with native stews and greens on one platter. Suugo with pasta similarly shares a plate and flavor profiles with Somali-born dishes. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The source of pasta of course can never be obfuscated and that isn't a righteous venture. The casual way that pasta dishes in East Africa are enjoyed, their \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">juxtapositions of starches and histories, don't rely on that rememberance. Rather historical harms are inoculated from the plate by the imposition of local preferences on foreign ingredients. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/138982/how-colonialism-brought-a-new-evolution-of-pasta-to-east-africa","authors":["11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_16558","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_17082"],"tags":["bayareabites_16557","bayareabites_16941","bayareabites_377","bayareabites_16940","bayareabites_755","bayareabites_1280"],"featImg":"bayareabites_138984","label":"source_bayareabites_138982"},"bayareabites_139121":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_139121","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"139121","score":null,"sort":[1601650822000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"your-guide-to-the-bay-areas-best-noodles","title":"Your Guide to the Bay Area’s Best Noodles","publishDate":1601650822,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>Noodles take many forms: spaetzle, soaking in pho, vermicelli in spring rolls, carbonara, sev and sevai, the list goes on and on. For that reason, we’ve compiled a guide of Bay Area spots to get your noodle on. Whether they are noodle specialists or the place we’ve identified with the best version of that dish in the Bay, this list brings us the comfort of carbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you’re out and about with your favorites, share them with us via the hashtag #kqednoodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a reminder, things are constantly changing during the pandemic. It’s best to call ahead to know what’s available for takeout, pickup or dining-in options. But don’t hold back: Life is about exploring the pasta-bilities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c!-- iframe plugin v.4.3 wordpress.org/plugins/iframe/ -->\u003cbr>\n\u003ciframe src=\"https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/1/embed?mid=1lfoHy_ggchEPgcygxeTUIRNHpDHcE-1E\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" scrolling=\"yes\" class=\"iframe-class\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://annachikadaiusa.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Annachikada\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139129\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139129\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-800x515.jpg\" alt=\"Closeup Image of Kerala Rice Flour Breakfast\" width=\"800\" height=\"515\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-800x515.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-1020x656.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-160x103.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-768x494.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-1536x988.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-2048x1318.jpg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-1920x1235.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Idiyappam \u003ccite>(iStock)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Idiyappam\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This South Bay Tamilian restaurant is the closest I’ve been able to get to my athai’s (Tamil for aunt) cooking. Though this place is best known for its banana leaf meals, their idiyappam—a rice noodle dish that’s familiar in Kerala, Tamil Nadu and parts of Sri Lanka—brings back the nostalgia of watching her crank a metal contraption. Dough pressed through the machine formed noodles that were later steamed. Often, Tamilian and South Indian food is conflated strictly to dosa and idli, and it’s finding places like this in the Bay that push people’s understanding past that narrow definition. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for takeout Monday through Friday 11:30am–10pm; Saturday 11:30am–10pm; Sunday 11:30am–10pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>80 W El Camino Real, Mountain View\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>650-282-5737\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.flourandwater.com/\">\u003cb>Flour + Water\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CE7WDu1sLTp/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Porchetta triangoli\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the heart of the Mission, Flour + Water has always been known for its pasta, wood-fired pizza and other Italian dishes. The pastas are made in-house and change seasonally, but each one is unique and a treat to take home and eat. On my latest visit, the porchetta triangoli was particularly interesting with in-season sweet mission figs, meaty roasted eggplant and fresh zippy mint. \u003ci>—U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for outdoor dining, pickup or delivery\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2401 Harrison St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-826-7000\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.greatchinaberkeley.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Great China\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BStlTYHjBbr/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Ginger scallion Dungeness crab with hand-pulled noodles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside tag=\"noodles2020\" label=\"More Noodles.\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During Dungeness crab season, the ginger scallion sauce drips from the crab onto the noodles to create a delightfully messy eating experience. You’ll need shamelessness (if eating in front of others) and plenty of wet naps. Aside from the crab noodles, the Zha Jiang Mien is also worth ordering. This Berkeley restaurant has been specializing in Northern Chinese cuisine since 1985. They also have a hefty, award-winning beer and wine collection, some of which is offered to-go. \u003ci>—U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for pickup and delivery Wednesday through Monday 11:30am–2:30pm; 5–8:30pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2190 Bancroft Way, Berkeley\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>510-843-7996\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://hkeo.us/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Hong Kong East Ocean Seafood Restaurant\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BvpNX4AlrWw/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Pan-fried crispy noodles and braised soft noodles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This gem of a place in Emeryville is a bit of a trek, but if you who love noodles and seafood, it’s worth it. The expansive restaurant was packed to the brim for dim sum brunch and had some of the best views in the pre-pandemic era. While the dining room is currently closed, their noodle dishes still travel well for takeout. \u003ci>–U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for takeout Monday through Sunday 11am–6pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3199 Powell St., Emeryville\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>510-655-3388\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.izaramen.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Iza Ramen\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B-vW6GTBCIY/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Spicy Iza Ramen with an extra egg and butter corn\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to ramen, it’s hard to find one dish that transports and tastes as good in-restaurant as it does assembled at home, but Iza Ramen succeeds where others fail. The big, comforting bowl of fat-rich broth with noodles and that jammy egg is everything we need right now. \u003ci>—U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for takeout\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>237 Fillmore St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-926-8173\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Cantonese-Restaurant/King-Of-Noodles-145673765464356/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">King of Noodles\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CEPN5yrHVOR/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Lamb noodles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time I went to this hole-in-the-wall was with my food best friend about a year after moving to San Francisco. Plates and plates of noodles kept arriving at our table: cilantro bean noodles; noodles in soup; and the epitome of joy, lamb noodles. It’s all about that al dente chew and the beautiful mess that comes from eating the saucy medium-cooked lamb with a pleasantly spicy broth that’s not overwhelming and builds with every bite. It’s also a generous order, so don’t feel bad if you have to share. This Irving Street spot’s name speaks for itself. \u003ci>—U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for takeout or delivery Thursday through Sunday 12–3pm, 5–8:30pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1639 Irving St., San Francisco\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">415-56608318\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://kagawayaudon.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Kagawa-Ya Udon\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CFxOVBRBY3q/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Here, it’s all about the celebration of udon noodles, plump and perfect for slurping. The husband and wife duo started the restaurant as way to show that fast food can also mean good food. Their udon is aged for two days before being formed into noodles. \u003ci>—U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Available for takeout and delivery Monday through Friday 11am–2pm and 5-8pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1455 Market St., Suite 3A, San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-703-0995\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.lanzhouhandpullednoodle.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Lanzhou Hand Pulled Noodles\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CCOqNvAFqGJ/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Focusing on dishes from the Gansu Province’s capital Lan Zhou, this restaurant is best known for its beef noodles, served with slices of turnip and seasoned with a numbing chili peppercorn sauce. Beyond that, hand-pulled noodles are on full display in a variety of forms: cold, spicy, in soup and more. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for takeout and delivery Wednesday through Monday 11am–3pm, 5-9pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1818 Milmont Dr., Milpitas\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>669-284-3959\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Lime Tree SF\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BskAIJqHxCm/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Laksa or Singapore noodles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lime Tree is one of a handful of Malaysian restaurants in the city. As far as the laksa goes, it’s one of the better versions in the city, where the complexity of the broth really comes through. Here, the broth takes center stage with the costar being the noodles, puffed tofu and seafood. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for takeout\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>450 Irving St. A, and 836 Clement St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-665-1415; 415-831-8811\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://www.marcellaslasagneria.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Marcella’s\u003c/b> \u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/Bae4WEQgE5r/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Classic bolognese lasagna\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lasagna is in fact a noodle. That’s not a worthwhile debate. A better concern is where to get it when you can’t manage to make it at home. Marcella’s is the answer. The Dogpatch lasagneria is a family-owned operation that churns out lasagnas in seven different options including the classic bolognese, abruzzo featuring homemade sausages and a pancetta-infused bianca. Besides those offerings, Marcella’s also has pastas, also homemade, and Italian sandwiches all available to go. The cozy restaurant is used to operating on a takeout basis so they’re fit to adapt under the pandemic’s restrictions. \u003ci>—R.G.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for pickup Tuesday through Saturday, 10:00am–2:30pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1099 Tennessee St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-920-2225\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://shandongoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Shan Dong\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139142\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139142\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-800x534.jpeg\" alt=\"noodles\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-800x534.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-1020x681.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-768x513.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-1536x1025.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1.jpeg 1600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shan Dong\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Hand-pulled noodles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are many ways to measure a noodle’s quality. Al dente signifies a desired resistance to teeth that a just-cooked-right pasta presents. The homemade hand-pulled noodles at Shan Dong make me wonder about another measure: the time it takes my teeth to meet through a noodle. It’s a question of both bounce and resistance, and Shan Dong’s noodles hold that balance deliciously. The hand-pulled wonders are available in a variety of dishes, including the beloved chow mein, a sesame paste glazed variety and the Oakland Chinatown staple. There are noodle dishes that have you picking around the starch looking for the meat, the veggies or the shrimp but that won’t be the case at Shan Dong. \u003cem>—R.G.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for takeout during lunch and dinner everyday except Monday\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>328 10th St. #101, Oakland\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>510-839-2299\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://phoaosen.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Pho Aosen\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/B_Vw_MYhxQb/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Traditional pho or pho ga\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fall has arrived and winter is to follow which makes a warm bowl of pho the most appealing meal any time of the day. Pho Aosen is the reliable pair of restaurants in Albany and Oakland that serve up pho alongside bun and other Vietnamese favorites. Aosen’s pho selection is deep, with over 10 different possibilities of steak, brisket and tendons—and three combinations that feature tripe. For chicken soup lovers, there’s pho ga, and vegetarians are similarly accommodated. Pre-pandemic, Aosen’s Albany location was especially worth visiting—a former Sizzler converted into a family-friendly and plant-filled eatery. For now, takeout will have to do. \u003ci>—R.G.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open all day except Wednesday\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>665 San Pablo Ave., Albany and 1139 E 12th St., Oakland\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>510-679-5000; 510-835-5588\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://sobaichioakland.com/\">Soba Ichi\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CDW9Z1VhSal/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In West Oakland, Koichi Ishii makes soba by hand, milling the buckwheat, rolling out the dough and cutting the noodles with special tools daily. He studied the art of soba-making for years in his hometown of Yamagata and he is one of a very small handful of chefs in the United States who have studied and make soba by hand. The menu is small, but it’s the perfect ode to the soba noodle. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Noodles available for takeout Thursday through Sunday 12–3pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2311A Magnolia St., West Oakland\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>510-465-1969\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.spqrsf.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">SPQR\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/CDej42rJ793/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to pasta, SPQR dedicates itself to contemporary Italian cuisine. Michelin-starred chef Matthew Accarrino uses seasonal ingredients to accompany noodles that bring comfort. In the more relaxed pandemic variation of the restaurant, the al a carte menu is available for takeout, indoor and outdoor dining. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for indoor and outdoor dining for dinner daily 5-8pm; Saturday and Sunday lunch 1-3pm; takeout Wednesday through Sunday 3-8pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1911 Fillmore St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-771-7779\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.suppenkuche.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Suppenkuche\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Jagerschnitzel or the Käsepätzle\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spätzle is a fresh egg pasta popular in Germany, Switzerland and Hungary. At Suppenkuche, there are three versions to try. The Jagerschnitzel is served with a juicy pork loin. The Saurbraten comes with red cabbage and cranberry sauce. And the Käsepätzle is a vegetarian-friendly version served with an onion butter sauce. The gruyere envelopes the beautifully light noodles. The restaurant has been around since 1993 from Fabrizio Wiest and Thomas Klausmann, and it’s modeled after a Bavarian beer hall, reminiscent of Wiest’s childhood. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for takeout and delivery Tuesday through Friday, 4:30–8:30pm; Saturday 12-8:30pm; Sunday 1-7pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>525 Laguna St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-252-9289\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/universal-bakery-san-francisco\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Universal Bakery\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BMSgsKgBc7i/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order:\u003c/strong> Chow mein sandwich\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While this Guatemalan bakery is best known for its empanadas, pastries and bread, the chow mein sandwich is an ode to all carbs. Chow mein came to Guatemala by way of Chinese immigrants who arrived for work opportunities. And the chow mein sandwich is a piece of history that \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/06/24/732028721/how-the-chow-mein-sandwich-claimed-a-small-slice-of-new-england-history\">tells a story\u003c/a> of patterns of migration through both Guatemala and the United States. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for takeout daily 6am–7:30pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3458 Mission St., San Francisco and 2803 Geneva Ave., Daly City\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-821-4871\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yukolthai.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Yukol Place\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>https://www.instagram.com/p/BBv_NQEH5lq/\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Pork pad see ew\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are many versions of pad see ew all around the Bay Area, but this is a personal favorite. Back in the pre-coronavirus times, I once took this and some green curry along with me for a red eye dinner. Those were the days. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for takeout daily 11:30am–3pm and 5–10pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2380 Lombard St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-922-1599\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Taste the noodles from all over the world right here in the Bay Area. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621632454,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":true,"iframeSrcs":["https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/1/embed"],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":37,"wordCount":2117},"headData":{"title":"Your Guide to the Bay Area’s Best Noodles | KQED","description":"Taste the noodles from all over the world right here in the Bay Area. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Your Guide to the Bay Area’s Best Noodles","datePublished":"2020-10-02T15:00:22.000Z","dateModified":"2021-05-21T21:27:34.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"139121 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=139121","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/10/02/your-guide-to-the-bay-areas-best-noodles/","disqusTitle":"Your Guide to the Bay Area’s Best Noodles","source":"KQED Noodle Week","sourceUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/noodles","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/139121/your-guide-to-the-bay-areas-best-noodles","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Noodles take many forms: spaetzle, soaking in pho, vermicelli in spring rolls, carbonara, sev and sevai, the list goes on and on. For that reason, we’ve compiled a guide of Bay Area spots to get your noodle on. Whether they are noodle specialists or the place we’ve identified with the best version of that dish in the Bay, this list brings us the comfort of carbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you’re out and about with your favorites, share them with us via the hashtag #kqednoodles.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a reminder, things are constantly changing during the pandemic. It’s best to call ahead to know what’s available for takeout, pickup or dining-in options. But don’t hold back: Life is about exploring the pasta-bilities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c!-- iframe plugin v.4.3 wordpress.org/plugins/iframe/ -->\u003cbr>\n\u003ciframe src=\"https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/1/embed?mid=1lfoHy_ggchEPgcygxeTUIRNHpDHcE-1E\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" scrolling=\"yes\" class=\"iframe-class\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://annachikadaiusa.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Annachikada\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139129\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139129\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-800x515.jpg\" alt=\"Closeup Image of Kerala Rice Flour Breakfast\" width=\"800\" height=\"515\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-800x515.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-1020x656.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-160x103.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-768x494.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-1536x988.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-2048x1318.jpg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/iStock-1148696627-1920x1235.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Idiyappam \u003ccite>(iStock)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Idiyappam\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This South Bay Tamilian restaurant is the closest I’ve been able to get to my athai’s (Tamil for aunt) cooking. Though this place is best known for its banana leaf meals, their idiyappam—a rice noodle dish that’s familiar in Kerala, Tamil Nadu and parts of Sri Lanka—brings back the nostalgia of watching her crank a metal contraption. Dough pressed through the machine formed noodles that were later steamed. Often, Tamilian and South Indian food is conflated strictly to dosa and idli, and it’s finding places like this in the Bay that push people’s understanding past that narrow definition. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for takeout Monday through Friday 11:30am–10pm; Saturday 11:30am–10pm; Sunday 11:30am–10pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>80 W El Camino Real, Mountain View\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>650-282-5737\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.flourandwater.com/\">\u003cb>Flour + Water\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"CE7WDu1sLTp"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Porchetta triangoli\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the heart of the Mission, Flour + Water has always been known for its pasta, wood-fired pizza and other Italian dishes. The pastas are made in-house and change seasonally, but each one is unique and a treat to take home and eat. On my latest visit, the porchetta triangoli was particularly interesting with in-season sweet mission figs, meaty roasted eggplant and fresh zippy mint. \u003ci>—U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for outdoor dining, pickup or delivery\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2401 Harrison St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-826-7000\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.greatchinaberkeley.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Great China\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"BStlTYHjBbr"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Ginger scallion Dungeness crab with hand-pulled noodles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"noodles2020","label":"More Noodles. "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During Dungeness crab season, the ginger scallion sauce drips from the crab onto the noodles to create a delightfully messy eating experience. You’ll need shamelessness (if eating in front of others) and plenty of wet naps. Aside from the crab noodles, the Zha Jiang Mien is also worth ordering. This Berkeley restaurant has been specializing in Northern Chinese cuisine since 1985. They also have a hefty, award-winning beer and wine collection, some of which is offered to-go. \u003ci>—U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for pickup and delivery Wednesday through Monday 11:30am–2:30pm; 5–8:30pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2190 Bancroft Way, Berkeley\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>510-843-7996\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://hkeo.us/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Hong Kong East Ocean Seafood Restaurant\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"BvpNX4AlrWw"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Pan-fried crispy noodles and braised soft noodles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This gem of a place in Emeryville is a bit of a trek, but if you who love noodles and seafood, it’s worth it. The expansive restaurant was packed to the brim for dim sum brunch and had some of the best views in the pre-pandemic era. While the dining room is currently closed, their noodle dishes still travel well for takeout. \u003ci>–U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for takeout Monday through Sunday 11am–6pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3199 Powell St., Emeryville\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>510-655-3388\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.izaramen.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Iza Ramen\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B-vW6GTBCIY"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Spicy Iza Ramen with an extra egg and butter corn\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to ramen, it’s hard to find one dish that transports and tastes as good in-restaurant as it does assembled at home, but Iza Ramen succeeds where others fail. The big, comforting bowl of fat-rich broth with noodles and that jammy egg is everything we need right now. \u003ci>—U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for takeout\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>237 Fillmore St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-926-8173\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Cantonese-Restaurant/King-Of-Noodles-145673765464356/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">King of Noodles\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"CEPN5yrHVOR"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Lamb noodles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The first time I went to this hole-in-the-wall was with my food best friend about a year after moving to San Francisco. Plates and plates of noodles kept arriving at our table: cilantro bean noodles; noodles in soup; and the epitome of joy, lamb noodles. It’s all about that al dente chew and the beautiful mess that comes from eating the saucy medium-cooked lamb with a pleasantly spicy broth that’s not overwhelming and builds with every bite. It’s also a generous order, so don’t feel bad if you have to share. This Irving Street spot’s name speaks for itself. \u003ci>—U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for takeout or delivery Thursday through Sunday 12–3pm, 5–8:30pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1639 Irving St., San Francisco\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">415-56608318\u003c/span>\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://kagawayaudon.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Kagawa-Ya Udon\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"CFxOVBRBY3q"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Here, it’s all about the celebration of udon noodles, plump and perfect for slurping. The husband and wife duo started the restaurant as way to show that fast food can also mean good food. Their udon is aged for two days before being formed into noodles. \u003ci>—U.R.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Available for takeout and delivery Monday through Friday 11am–2pm and 5-8pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1455 Market St., Suite 3A, San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-703-0995\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.lanzhouhandpullednoodle.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Lanzhou Hand Pulled Noodles\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"CCOqNvAFqGJ"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Focusing on dishes from the Gansu Province’s capital Lan Zhou, this restaurant is best known for its beef noodles, served with slices of turnip and seasoned with a numbing chili peppercorn sauce. Beyond that, hand-pulled noodles are on full display in a variety of forms: cold, spicy, in soup and more. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for takeout and delivery Wednesday through Monday 11am–3pm, 5-9pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1818 Milmont Dr., Milpitas\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>669-284-3959\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Lime Tree SF\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"BskAIJqHxCm"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Laksa or Singapore noodles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lime Tree is one of a handful of Malaysian restaurants in the city. As far as the laksa goes, it’s one of the better versions in the city, where the complexity of the broth really comes through. Here, the broth takes center stage with the costar being the noodles, puffed tofu and seafood. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for takeout\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>450 Irving St. A, and 836 Clement St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-665-1415; 415-831-8811\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://www.marcellaslasagneria.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Marcella’s\u003c/b> \u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"Bae4WEQgE5r"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Classic bolognese lasagna\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lasagna is in fact a noodle. That’s not a worthwhile debate. A better concern is where to get it when you can’t manage to make it at home. Marcella’s is the answer. The Dogpatch lasagneria is a family-owned operation that churns out lasagnas in seven different options including the classic bolognese, abruzzo featuring homemade sausages and a pancetta-infused bianca. Besides those offerings, Marcella’s also has pastas, also homemade, and Italian sandwiches all available to go. The cozy restaurant is used to operating on a takeout basis so they’re fit to adapt under the pandemic’s restrictions. \u003ci>—R.G.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for pickup Tuesday through Saturday, 10:00am–2:30pm\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1099 Tennessee St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-920-2225\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://shandongoakland.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Shan Dong\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139142\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139142\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-800x534.jpeg\" alt=\"noodles\" width=\"800\" height=\"534\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-800x534.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-1020x681.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-160x107.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-768x513.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1-1536x1025.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/P1000538-1.jpeg 1600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shan Dong\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Hand-pulled noodles\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are many ways to measure a noodle’s quality. Al dente signifies a desired resistance to teeth that a just-cooked-right pasta presents. The homemade hand-pulled noodles at Shan Dong make me wonder about another measure: the time it takes my teeth to meet through a noodle. It’s a question of both bounce and resistance, and Shan Dong’s noodles hold that balance deliciously. The hand-pulled wonders are available in a variety of dishes, including the beloved chow mein, a sesame paste glazed variety and the Oakland Chinatown staple. There are noodle dishes that have you picking around the starch looking for the meat, the veggies or the shrimp but that won’t be the case at Shan Dong. \u003cem>—R.G.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open for takeout during lunch and dinner everyday except Monday\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>328 10th St. #101, Oakland\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>510-839-2299\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://phoaosen.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">\u003cb>Pho Aosen\u003c/b>\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"B_Vw_MYhxQb"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Traditional pho or pho ga\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fall has arrived and winter is to follow which makes a warm bowl of pho the most appealing meal any time of the day. Pho Aosen is the reliable pair of restaurants in Albany and Oakland that serve up pho alongside bun and other Vietnamese favorites. Aosen’s pho selection is deep, with over 10 different possibilities of steak, brisket and tendons—and three combinations that feature tripe. For chicken soup lovers, there’s pho ga, and vegetarians are similarly accommodated. Pre-pandemic, Aosen’s Albany location was especially worth visiting—a former Sizzler converted into a family-friendly and plant-filled eatery. For now, takeout will have to do. \u003ci>—R.G.\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003ci>Open all day except Wednesday\u003c/i>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>665 San Pablo Ave., Albany and 1139 E 12th St., Oakland\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>510-679-5000; 510-835-5588\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://sobaichioakland.com/\">Soba Ichi\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"CDW9Z1VhSal"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>In West Oakland, Koichi Ishii makes soba by hand, milling the buckwheat, rolling out the dough and cutting the noodles with special tools daily. He studied the art of soba-making for years in his hometown of Yamagata and he is one of a very small handful of chefs in the United States who have studied and make soba by hand. The menu is small, but it’s the perfect ode to the soba noodle. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Noodles available for takeout Thursday through Sunday 12–3pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2311A Magnolia St., West Oakland\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>510-465-1969\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.spqrsf.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">SPQR\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"CDej42rJ793"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>When it comes to pasta, SPQR dedicates itself to contemporary Italian cuisine. Michelin-starred chef Matthew Accarrino uses seasonal ingredients to accompany noodles that bring comfort. In the more relaxed pandemic variation of the restaurant, the al a carte menu is available for takeout, indoor and outdoor dining. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for indoor and outdoor dining for dinner daily 5-8pm; Saturday and Sunday lunch 1-3pm; takeout Wednesday through Sunday 3-8pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1911 Fillmore St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-771-7779\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.suppenkuche.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Suppenkuche\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Jagerschnitzel or the Käsepätzle\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spätzle is a fresh egg pasta popular in Germany, Switzerland and Hungary. At Suppenkuche, there are three versions to try. The Jagerschnitzel is served with a juicy pork loin. The Saurbraten comes with red cabbage and cranberry sauce. And the Käsepätzle is a vegetarian-friendly version served with an onion butter sauce. The gruyere envelopes the beautifully light noodles. The restaurant has been around since 1993 from Fabrizio Wiest and Thomas Klausmann, and it’s modeled after a Bavarian beer hall, reminiscent of Wiest’s childhood. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for takeout and delivery Tuesday through Friday, 4:30–8:30pm; Saturday 12-8:30pm; Sunday 1-7pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>525 Laguna St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-252-9289\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/universal-bakery-san-francisco\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Universal Bakery\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"BMSgsKgBc7i"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order:\u003c/strong> Chow mein sandwich\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While this Guatemalan bakery is best known for its empanadas, pastries and bread, the chow mein sandwich is an ode to all carbs. Chow mein came to Guatemala by way of Chinese immigrants who arrived for work opportunities. And the chow mein sandwich is a piece of history that \u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2019/06/24/732028721/how-the-chow-mein-sandwich-claimed-a-small-slice-of-new-england-history\">tells a story\u003c/a> of patterns of migration through both Guatemala and the United States. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for takeout daily 6am–7:30pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3458 Mission St., San Francisco and 2803 Geneva Ave., Daly City\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-821-4871\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003ch2>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yukolthai.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Yukol Place\u003c/a>\u003c/h2>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"instagramLink","attributes":{"named":{"instagramId":"BBv_NQEH5lq"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What to order\u003c/strong>: Pork pad see ew\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are many versions of pad see ew all around the Bay Area, but this is a personal favorite. Back in the pre-coronavirus times, I once took this and some green curry along with me for a red eye dinner. Those were the days. \u003cem>—U.R.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>\u003cem>Available for takeout daily 11:30am–3pm and 5–10pm\u003c/em>\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2380 Lombard St., San Francisco\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>415-922-1599\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/139121/your-guide-to-the-bay-areas-best-noodles","authors":["11689","11625"],"categories":["bayareabites_16558","bayareabites_17082"],"tags":["bayareabites_9037","bayareabites_16974","bayareabites_14773","bayareabites_16975","bayareabites_16557","bayareabites_16972","bayareabites_13220","bayareabites_16971","bayareabites_377","bayareabites_16973","bayareabites_16940","bayareabites_14757","bayareabites_14745","bayareabites_14752","bayareabites_14746"],"featImg":"bayareabites_139122","label":"source_bayareabites_139121"},"bayareabites_139076":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_139076","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"139076","score":null,"sort":[1601650819000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-reliable-comfort-jajangmyeon","title":"The Reliable Comfort of Jajangmyeon","publishDate":1601650819,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My first encounter with jajangmyeon was a revelatory experience. Two years ago, I was in Seoul with my grandmother, eating our way through her home city\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">when we ended up on a dedicated noodle journey. Yesterday’s lunch had been a chilled metal bowl of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://seonkyounglongest.com/naengmyeon/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">naengmyeon\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, extremely chewy buckwheat noodles served in a cold beef broth punched up with acidic kimchi juice and chalky slices of hard boiled egg. The day before, sweating in the June humidity at a stall in Gwangjang market, we’d slurped down \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://kimchimari.com/kalguksu-korean-knife-cut-noodle-soup/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">kal guksu\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, knife cut noodles served with beef broth, carrots, cabbage, and shredded toasted seaweed on top. Just when I was certain there was no room left in my heart, or stomach, for another breathtaking bowl of noodles, we went to a fancy Chinese restaurant in Gangnam. The host led us to our table in a darkly lit room filled with stylish people in designer clothes and my grandmother ordered us heaping bowls of jajangmyeon. We tucked our napkins into our shirt collars and dug our chopsticks in to mix the noodles until they were slick with black sauce. The hand-pulled noodles were balanced: not too thick, gummy, or ethereal, with a bouncy chew. My grandmother and I slurped our bowls clean, waddled back to our Airbnb, and spent the rest of the trip talking about how incredible those noodles were. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside tag=\"noodles2020\" label=\"More Noodles.\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s not an exaggeration to say that I could write sonnets about jajangmyeon. The elements are all there: toothsome, chewy noodles topped with chunjang, a thick fermented black bean sauce cooked with small pieces of fatty pork, zucchini, and onion. The glossy sauce is adorned with crunchy, electric-yellow pickled danmuji (daikon), raw white onion, and matchstick cut cucumber. The richness of the chunjang, rivaling that of a slow-cooked bolognese, is balanced by the sweet acidity of danmuji cutting through the savoriness like a breath of fresh air. To me jajangmyeon is a comfort food to end all comfort foods, a healing salve for all occasions. It’s for filling a cavernously empty stomach, for soothing period cramps, and for nights when the world sits too heavily on your shoulders. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139175\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139175\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-800x600.jpeg\" alt=\"Granddaughter and grandmother eating\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-1920x1440.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Olivia and her grandmother \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Olivia Won)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In my experience noodles are remarkable starting points for larger conversations about cultural history, politics, and diaspora. That naengmyeon lunch led to a discussion about the dish’s North Korean origin and my grandmother’s thoughts on reunification. Photos of kal guksu yielded a 30-minute lecture from my father about how wheat-based noodles became popularized during the Korean war, when American wheat flour was distributed with rations. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jajangmyeon proves to be no different, as its nation-spanning origins can spark feisty debates about the dish’s cultural heritage. The dish arrived in Korea when Chinese immigrants brought Shandong-style zhajiangmian to Incheon. From its diasporic beginnings, the Koreanized Chinese dish evolved in context to become a unique phenomenon in Korean culture. Popularly eaten on \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/2019/04/introduction-to-black-day.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Black Day\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> —the anti-Valentine’s holiday for sad singles— the dish is the most common takeout food in the nation. It has also spawned an extremely gushy \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JfG93JVUAiw\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">subgenre of ASMR mukbangs\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Regardless of how you choose to classify jajangmyeon, the dish in mainstream Bay Area food culture still lives in shocking anonymity. You can order jajangmyeon at Chinese, Korean and Korean-Chinese restaurants under its many names (meat sauce noodles, zha jiang mian, jajangmyeon) and determine which interpretation best satisfies your particular palate (\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://thebolditalic.com/best-places-to-get-zha-jiang-mian-the-bold-italic-san-francisco-b5f8d8480c83\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">one writer, driven by a craving much like mine, did so for restaurants in San Francisco)\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As months of pandemic-induced isolation ticked by and my mental health increasingly deteriorated, the specter of my perfect bowl of jajangmyeon began to haunt me. I followed \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.maangchi.com/recipe/jjajangmyeon\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Maangchi’s recipe\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> to make decent at-home versions, but they never quite hit the spot. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Everything changed when a friend directed me to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/yu-yu-za-zang-oakland\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Yu Yu Za Zang\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> on Telegraph Ave in Oakland. I must have driven by the storefront hundreds of times on frequent trips to Koreana Plaza throughout my life, but I had overlooked it, even with the neon lettering in the window displaying the dish’s name in hangul (of course, when I asked my grandmother if she had tried this spot, it turned out that it’s her preferred restaurant in Oakland for jajangmyeon). \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In its takeout form from Yu Yu Za Zang, the dish comes with sauce and noodles in separate containers, radish and onion fixings in tiny plastic cups. I mixed the noodles and promptly splattered black sauce everywhere with furious slurping. I had found my glass slipper, my ideal jajangmyeon, hidden in plain sight just a few blocks from my apartment. It was a rom-com moment of falling in love with the person next-door, but with noodles. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The dish’s allure comes from the comforting assurance that even during the worst of times, the perfect noodles, with their magic power to soothe all ailments, can be slurped down while ugly-crying in pajamas. Jajangmyeon may elude easy classification, but when it exists somewhere out there, there is the certain promise of feeling okay. Because when one’s belly is full of noodles, it’s easier to believe that better days will come.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"A love letter to a noodle dish that warms the belly and satitates the soul.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621632464,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":11,"wordCount":905},"headData":{"title":"The Reliable Comfort of Jajangmyeon | KQED","description":"A love letter to a noodle dish that warms the belly and satitates the soul.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The Reliable Comfort of Jajangmyeon","datePublished":"2020-10-02T15:00:19.000Z","dateModified":"2021-05-21T21:27:44.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"139076 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=139076","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/10/02/the-reliable-comfort-jajangmyeon/","disqusTitle":"The Reliable Comfort of Jajangmyeon","source":"KQED Noodle Week","sourceUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/noodles","WpOldSlug":"__trashed","path":"/bayareabites/139076/the-reliable-comfort-jajangmyeon","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My first encounter with jajangmyeon was a revelatory experience. Two years ago, I was in Seoul with my grandmother, eating our way through her home city\u003c/span> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">when we ended up on a dedicated noodle journey. Yesterday’s lunch had been a chilled metal bowl of \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://seonkyounglongest.com/naengmyeon/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">naengmyeon\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, extremely chewy buckwheat noodles served in a cold beef broth punched up with acidic kimchi juice and chalky slices of hard boiled egg. The day before, sweating in the June humidity at a stall in Gwangjang market, we’d slurped down \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://kimchimari.com/kalguksu-korean-knife-cut-noodle-soup/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">kal guksu\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, knife cut noodles served with beef broth, carrots, cabbage, and shredded toasted seaweed on top. Just when I was certain there was no room left in my heart, or stomach, for another breathtaking bowl of noodles, we went to a fancy Chinese restaurant in Gangnam. The host led us to our table in a darkly lit room filled with stylish people in designer clothes and my grandmother ordered us heaping bowls of jajangmyeon. We tucked our napkins into our shirt collars and dug our chopsticks in to mix the noodles until they were slick with black sauce. The hand-pulled noodles were balanced: not too thick, gummy, or ethereal, with a bouncy chew. My grandmother and I slurped our bowls clean, waddled back to our Airbnb, and spent the rest of the trip talking about how incredible those noodles were. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"noodles2020","label":"More Noodles. "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">It’s not an exaggeration to say that I could write sonnets about jajangmyeon. The elements are all there: toothsome, chewy noodles topped with chunjang, a thick fermented black bean sauce cooked with small pieces of fatty pork, zucchini, and onion. The glossy sauce is adorned with crunchy, electric-yellow pickled danmuji (daikon), raw white onion, and matchstick cut cucumber. The richness of the chunjang, rivaling that of a slow-cooked bolognese, is balanced by the sweet acidity of danmuji cutting through the savoriness like a breath of fresh air. To me jajangmyeon is a comfort food to end all comfort foods, a healing salve for all occasions. It’s for filling a cavernously empty stomach, for soothing period cramps, and for nights when the world sits too heavily on your shoulders. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139175\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139175\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-800x600.jpeg\" alt=\"Granddaughter and grandmother eating\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-800x600.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-1020x765.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-160x120.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-768x576.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-1536x1152.jpeg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-2048x1536.jpeg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/10/IMG_2041-1920x1440.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Olivia and her grandmother \u003ccite>(Courtesy of Olivia Won)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In my experience noodles are remarkable starting points for larger conversations about cultural history, politics, and diaspora. That naengmyeon lunch led to a discussion about the dish’s North Korean origin and my grandmother’s thoughts on reunification. Photos of kal guksu yielded a 30-minute lecture from my father about how wheat-based noodles became popularized during the Korean war, when American wheat flour was distributed with rations. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Jajangmyeon proves to be no different, as its nation-spanning origins can spark feisty debates about the dish’s cultural heritage. The dish arrived in Korea when Chinese immigrants brought Shandong-style zhajiangmian to Incheon. From its diasporic beginnings, the Koreanized Chinese dish evolved in context to become a unique phenomenon in Korean culture. Popularly eaten on \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.seriouseats.com/2019/04/introduction-to-black-day.html\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Black Day\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> —the anti-Valentine’s holiday for sad singles— the dish is the most common takeout food in the nation. It has also spawned an extremely gushy \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JfG93JVUAiw\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">subgenre of ASMR mukbangs\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. Regardless of how you choose to classify jajangmyeon, the dish in mainstream Bay Area food culture still lives in shocking anonymity. You can order jajangmyeon at Chinese, Korean and Korean-Chinese restaurants under its many names (meat sauce noodles, zha jiang mian, jajangmyeon) and determine which interpretation best satisfies your particular palate (\u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://thebolditalic.com/best-places-to-get-zha-jiang-mian-the-bold-italic-san-francisco-b5f8d8480c83\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">one writer, driven by a craving much like mine, did so for restaurants in San Francisco)\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As months of pandemic-induced isolation ticked by and my mental health increasingly deteriorated, the specter of my perfect bowl of jajangmyeon began to haunt me. I followed \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.maangchi.com/recipe/jjajangmyeon\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Maangchi’s recipe\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> to make decent at-home versions, but they never quite hit the spot. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Everything changed when a friend directed me to \u003c/span>\u003ca href=\"https://www.yelp.com/biz/yu-yu-za-zang-oakland\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Yu Yu Za Zang\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> on Telegraph Ave in Oakland. I must have driven by the storefront hundreds of times on frequent trips to Koreana Plaza throughout my life, but I had overlooked it, even with the neon lettering in the window displaying the dish’s name in hangul (of course, when I asked my grandmother if she had tried this spot, it turned out that it’s her preferred restaurant in Oakland for jajangmyeon). \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In its takeout form from Yu Yu Za Zang, the dish comes with sauce and noodles in separate containers, radish and onion fixings in tiny plastic cups. I mixed the noodles and promptly splattered black sauce everywhere with furious slurping. I had found my glass slipper, my ideal jajangmyeon, hidden in plain sight just a few blocks from my apartment. It was a rom-com moment of falling in love with the person next-door, but with noodles. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">The dish’s allure comes from the comforting assurance that even during the worst of times, the perfect noodles, with their magic power to soothe all ailments, can be slurped down while ugly-crying in pajamas. Jajangmyeon may elude easy classification, but when it exists somewhere out there, there is the certain promise of feeling okay. Because when one’s belly is full of noodles, it’s easier to believe that better days will come.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/139076/the-reliable-comfort-jajangmyeon","authors":["11614"],"categories":["bayareabites_16558","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_17082"],"tags":["bayareabites_16956","bayareabites_16557","bayareabites_744","bayareabites_16621","bayareabites_16958","bayareabites_12468","bayareabites_16957","bayareabites_16955","bayareabites_377","bayareabites_16940"],"featImg":"bayareabites_139078","label":"source_bayareabites_139076"},"bayareabites_139003":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_139003","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"139003","score":null,"sort":[1601650818000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"the-science-and-magicof-egg-noodles","title":"The Science (and Magic) of Egg Noodles","publishDate":1601650818,"format":"image","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>I was a biochemist before becoming a chef. So I write this as a skeptical scientist: A bowl of pasta has an almost magical quality. Hidden in plain sight are layers of flavor, technique, thoughtfulness, science, exploration and love that reveal who we are as cooks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Making fresh pasta can feel like an intimidating task. Most of us (including this pro) have experienced the awful frustration of fresh pasta gone awry. In fact, the worst night of my culinary career was punctuated by a failed pasta course ruined by a dried, cracked and unsalvageable egg pasta dough. As a result of that public failure, I realized that I had to learn more about the science of pasta\u003ca href=\"#1\">\u003csup>1\u003c/sup>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp id=\"practicing\">So, I share my knowledge and experience from a place of great humility.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139018\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139018\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13-800x607.jpg\" alt=\"Eggs and flour\" width=\"800\" height=\"607\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13-800x607.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13-1020x774.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13-160x121.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13-768x583.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">There's a science behind mixing eggs and flour together to create the perfect pasta. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The transformation of flour\u003ca href=\"#2\">\u003csup>2\u003c/sup>\u003c/a> and eggs into a noodle begins with the thoughtful development of gluten. What we think of gluten is a mixture of two protein groups, gliadins and glutenins. Each contribute different but complementary chemical properties to the strength of the pasta dough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gliadins provide viscosity and increased extensibility (the stretch of the dough). Glutenins gives the dough elasticity (the ability to return to its original shape after stretching).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139019\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139019\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16-800x624.jpg\" alt=\"fork whisking eggs and flour\" width=\"800\" height=\"624\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16-800x624.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16-1020x796.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16-160x125.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16-768x599.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Using a fork to whisk eggs can offer some precision and keep eggs within their flour well. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To fully exploit the properties of the gluten proteins and the egg’s chemistry, slowly incorporate the flour into the eggs\u003ca href=\"#3\">\u003csup>3\u003c/sup>\u003c/a>. I use a fork and pretend I am making a\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Wb5Crj917I\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"> French omelet\u003c/a>. After the dough takes on a “Play-Doh” appearance, knead it. The natural rhythm of folding and pushing the dough increases the probability that the gluten proteins will interact with each other and with the \u003ca href=\"https://www.scienceofcooking.com/eggs/cooking-eggs-sous-vide.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">ovalbumin protein\u003c/a> from the egg. When exposed to the oxidative environment of ambient air, the sulfur containing cysteine amino acids in the gluten and egg ovalbumin protein form disulfide bonds with each other\u003ca href=\"#4\">\u003csup>4\u003c/sup>\u003c/a>. These interactions are the basis of the gluten network characteristic of pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139020\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139020\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"fork mixing pasta dough\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This is what the dough will look like when all the flour has been incorporated. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139027\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139027\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Ball of pasta dough\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The dough should eventually form into a ball like this. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As the dough forms a stable but slight dry looking ball, vacuum seal it in a large bag\u003ca href=\"#5\">\u003csup>5\u003c/sup>\u003c/a>. This step may seem, unnecessary especially when you consider people have crafted amazing handmade noodle for hundreds of years, but vacuum sealing enhances many of the dough’s chemical and physical characteristics. First, by decreasing the surface tension associated with air, vacuum sealing promotes even and more efficient hydration of the flour granules than kneading alone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139028\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139028\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"pasta dough ball\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When the dough looks like this, it's ready to vacuum seal. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Second, the dough’s strength is increased by removing the small air bubbles trapped in the dough. Third, the oxidation of egg yolk’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.livescience.com/52487-carotenoids.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">carotenoids\u003c/a> (lycopene, β‐carotene, lutein and vitamin A) is slowed thereby maintaining the dough’s deep golden hue for a longer period of time. And lastly, I really love the additional layers of sheen and silkiness vacuum sealing adds to the final pasta noodle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139035\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139035\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19-800x640.jpg\" alt=\"Vaccum sealed pasta dough ball\" width=\"800\" height=\"640\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19-800x640.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19-1020x816.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19-160x128.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19-768x614.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It might seem excessive, but vacuum sealing pasta dough has its scientific and culinary benefits, says Francis. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At this point the interlocked gluten and ovalbumin proteins are distributed randomly throughout dough. Rolling out the dough, folding and gradual thinning gives order and direction to the egg-fortified gluten network. If done properly, you can see and feel the rows of gluten form on a smooth silky elastic sheet of dough as it glides over your hands. The science behind an egg noodle is beautiful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139023\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139023\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"sheeting pasta dough\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Malik Francis sheets his pasta dough. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When I make this pasta dish at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.materialsandmethodssf.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Materials+Methods\u003c/a> pop-up, I start by giving a demonstration on how to make fresh pasta. The demonstration is prelude to sharing my story of how transitioned from away my research science career towards becoming a chef. This dish explores my connection\u003ca href=\"#6\">\u003csup>6 \u003c/sup>\u003c/a>with eggs and cheese\u003ca href=\"#7\">\u003csup>7\u003c/sup>\u003c/a> and is a platform to stack additional layers of depth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139021\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139021\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"bowl of pasta with cheese\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A good bowl of pasta comes down to ingredients. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fettuccinii\u003ca href=\"#8\">\u003csup>8 \u003c/sup>\u003c/a> hits a nice sweet spot: Thin enough to twirl, but wide enough to carry the eggy sauce along for the ride. Woven throughout the dish is smoke flavor layered in the form of smoked egg yolks\u003ca href=\"#9\">\u003csup>9\u003c/sup>\u003c/a>, slow rendered bacon\u003ca href=\"#10\">\u003csup>10\u003c/sup>,\u003c/a> and charcoal-activated Cyprus flake salt. When grated over the pasta, the egg yolks and bacon supply a subtle umami-rich smoke flavor that enhances the pasta’s egg flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside tag=\"noodles2020\" label=\"More Noodles.\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A fruity arbequina olive oil not only prevents the fettuccini from sticking to each other, but also elevates the smoky notes with a subtle fruity heat that cuts through the richness of the egg. A custardy slow-cooked egg adorns the pasta. But it’s the salinity, texture and flavor of the charcoal-activated Cyprus sea salt that unlocks the egg’s rich beauty and unifies the whole dish. The pasta and eggs are covered in a snow of the deliciously nutty Esquirrou, a life-affirming sheep milk cheese from the French Basque region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139036\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139036\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Bowl of pasta with a fork\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Malik Francis\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This egg pasta dish evokes a playfulness. The joy of cutting into the slow cooked egg, and watching the yolk ooze out of it, is paired with the fun of tossing the pasta with runny egg and cheese until it becomes a cohesive slurp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beyond the playfulness is an overarching truth: I can passionately pursue my true love of cooking while retaining my identity as a scientist. And as a skeptical scientist, even I would say \u003cem>that’s \u003c/em>a pretty sweet magic trick!\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch6>\u003csup>1 \u003c/sup>There are so many “perfect” egg pasta recipes, it can be overwhelming to know where to start. Most all of them are awesome. What I want to stress is that no matter what recipe you choose, focus on developing good technique. Learning how a proper dough should feel and taste. It sounds trite, but there is no substitution for practicing.\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"2\">\u003csup>2 \u003c/sup>You can make an awesome pasta with any of these flours durum (semolina), AP, and “00”. Durum flour has the highest protein content, and “00” has the lowest. The dough will be enriched and fortified by proteins in the eggs, so obsessing about one over the other is not time well spent. The higher protein content of semolina, does however, allows for hydration with only water.\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"3\">>\u003csup>3 \u003c/sup>At most restaurants I have worked in, we used a stand mixer with a dough hook attachment, but at home I always employ the well method. Also I find using a scale and the metric measurements gives more consistent results and the are easier to scale or down. A decent scale is affordable, and even if it was not how much would you pay not divide a 1/8 of a tsp in half?\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"4\">>\u003csup>4 \u003c/sup>The majority of the protein in the egg white is ovalbumin at about 54% of total egg-white\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"5\">\u003csup>5 \u003c/sup>Almost any pasta dough can be made \u003cu>better by vacuum sealing\u003c/u>. Knead dough until it forms a stable ball then vacuum seal in a large bag. I typically let the dough rest for 4-12 hours before rolling out into sheets. 6 One of the first haute recipes I mastered during grad school was a wonderful gruyere soufflé. It was just me, a whisk, and an amazing community who lovingly ate many of my disasters. And once I started to reproducibly craft successful soufflés, I started hosting dinner parties. Those dinner parties ultimately gave me the confidence to start working in professional\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"6\">\u003csup>6 \u003c/sup>One of the first haute recipes I mastered during grad school was a wonderful gruyere soufflé. It was just me, a whisk, and an amazing community who lovingly ate many of my disasters. And once I started to reproducibly craft successful soufflés, I started hosting dinner parties. Those dinner parties ultimately gave me the confidence to start working in professional kitchens.\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"7\">\u003csup>7 \u003c/sup>\u003cu>Alpine cheeses\u003c/u>, like \u003cu>schallenberg\u003c/u>, \u003cu>hornbacher\u003c/u> or \u003cu>chällerhocker\u003c/u>, are some of my cherished flavors. They are wonderful on their own, and glorious in a French omelet (I was OCD about mastering those as well).\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"8\">\u003csup>8 \u003c/sup> I am not an absolutist about the rules of governing pasta and sauce\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"9\">\u003csup>9 \u003c/sup>Cure egg yolks (find recipes here or here) and cold smoke with cherry or pear wood smoke for 2 hours. It’s important to cold smoke as to not cook the yolks. I will say they are pretty tasty over charred asparagus.\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"10\">\u003csup>10 \u003c/sup>Take a small slab (think like “credit card cut in half” size) from the meaty portion of smoky bacon and slow render it in the oven on low heat until it takes on a caramelized jerky appearance. Cool on a lint-free towel or over a wire rack. When finely grated, this will give you a clean, smoky, umami rich bacon flavor with eating tons of fat, but save the bacon fat anyway.\u003c/h6>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Creating pasta from scratch can be intimidating, but understanding the science behind it can help create the perfect bowl of egg noodles any time. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621632470,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":1561},"headData":{"title":"The Science (and Magic) of Egg Noodles | KQED","description":"Creating pasta from scratch can be intimidating, but understanding the science behind it can help create the perfect bowl of egg noodles any time. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"The Science (and Magic) of Egg Noodles","datePublished":"2020-10-02T15:00:18.000Z","dateModified":"2021-05-21T21:27:50.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"139003 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=139003","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/10/02/the-science-and-magicof-egg-noodles/","disqusTitle":"The Science (and Magic) of Egg Noodles","source":"KQED Noodle Week","sourceUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/noodles","nprByline":"Malik Francis","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/139003/the-science-and-magicof-egg-noodles","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>I was a biochemist before becoming a chef. So I write this as a skeptical scientist: A bowl of pasta has an almost magical quality. Hidden in plain sight are layers of flavor, technique, thoughtfulness, science, exploration and love that reveal who we are as cooks.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Making fresh pasta can feel like an intimidating task. Most of us (including this pro) have experienced the awful frustration of fresh pasta gone awry. In fact, the worst night of my culinary career was punctuated by a failed pasta course ruined by a dried, cracked and unsalvageable egg pasta dough. As a result of that public failure, I realized that I had to learn more about the science of pasta\u003ca href=\"#1\">\u003csup>1\u003c/sup>\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp id=\"practicing\">So, I share my knowledge and experience from a place of great humility.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139018\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139018\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13-800x607.jpg\" alt=\"Eggs and flour\" width=\"800\" height=\"607\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13-800x607.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13-1020x774.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13-160x121.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13-768x583.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-13.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">There's a science behind mixing eggs and flour together to create the perfect pasta. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The transformation of flour\u003ca href=\"#2\">\u003csup>2\u003c/sup>\u003c/a> and eggs into a noodle begins with the thoughtful development of gluten. What we think of gluten is a mixture of two protein groups, gliadins and glutenins. Each contribute different but complementary chemical properties to the strength of the pasta dough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gliadins provide viscosity and increased extensibility (the stretch of the dough). Glutenins gives the dough elasticity (the ability to return to its original shape after stretching).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139019\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139019\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16-800x624.jpg\" alt=\"fork whisking eggs and flour\" width=\"800\" height=\"624\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16-800x624.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16-1020x796.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16-160x125.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16-768x599.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-16.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Using a fork to whisk eggs can offer some precision and keep eggs within their flour well. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>To fully exploit the properties of the gluten proteins and the egg’s chemistry, slowly incorporate the flour into the eggs\u003ca href=\"#3\">\u003csup>3\u003c/sup>\u003c/a>. I use a fork and pretend I am making a\u003ca href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Wb5Crj917I\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"> French omelet\u003c/a>. After the dough takes on a “Play-Doh” appearance, knead it. The natural rhythm of folding and pushing the dough increases the probability that the gluten proteins will interact with each other and with the \u003ca href=\"https://www.scienceofcooking.com/eggs/cooking-eggs-sous-vide.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">ovalbumin protein\u003c/a> from the egg. When exposed to the oxidative environment of ambient air, the sulfur containing cysteine amino acids in the gluten and egg ovalbumin protein form disulfide bonds with each other\u003ca href=\"#4\">\u003csup>4\u003c/sup>\u003c/a>. These interactions are the basis of the gluten network characteristic of pasta.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139020\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139020\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"fork mixing pasta dough\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-17.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This is what the dough will look like when all the flour has been incorporated. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139027\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139027\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Ball of pasta dough\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-20.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The dough should eventually form into a ball like this. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>As the dough forms a stable but slight dry looking ball, vacuum seal it in a large bag\u003ca href=\"#5\">\u003csup>5\u003c/sup>\u003c/a>. This step may seem, unnecessary especially when you consider people have crafted amazing handmade noodle for hundreds of years, but vacuum sealing enhances many of the dough’s chemical and physical characteristics. First, by decreasing the surface tension associated with air, vacuum sealing promotes even and more efficient hydration of the flour granules than kneading alone.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139028\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139028\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"pasta dough ball\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-18.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">When the dough looks like this, it's ready to vacuum seal. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Second, the dough’s strength is increased by removing the small air bubbles trapped in the dough. Third, the oxidation of egg yolk’s \u003ca href=\"https://www.livescience.com/52487-carotenoids.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">carotenoids\u003c/a> (lycopene, β‐carotene, lutein and vitamin A) is slowed thereby maintaining the dough’s deep golden hue for a longer period of time. And lastly, I really love the additional layers of sheen and silkiness vacuum sealing adds to the final pasta noodle.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139035\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139035\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19-800x640.jpg\" alt=\"Vaccum sealed pasta dough ball\" width=\"800\" height=\"640\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19-800x640.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19-1020x816.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19-160x128.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19-768x614.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-19.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It might seem excessive, but vacuum sealing pasta dough has its scientific and culinary benefits, says Francis. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>At this point the interlocked gluten and ovalbumin proteins are distributed randomly throughout dough. Rolling out the dough, folding and gradual thinning gives order and direction to the egg-fortified gluten network. If done properly, you can see and feel the rows of gluten form on a smooth silky elastic sheet of dough as it glides over your hands. The science behind an egg noodle is beautiful.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139023\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139023\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"sheeting pasta dough\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-3.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Malik Francis sheets his pasta dough. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>When I make this pasta dish at the \u003ca href=\"https://www.materialsandmethodssf.com/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Materials+Methods\u003c/a> pop-up, I start by giving a demonstration on how to make fresh pasta. The demonstration is prelude to sharing my story of how transitioned from away my research science career towards becoming a chef. This dish explores my connection\u003ca href=\"#6\">\u003csup>6 \u003c/sup>\u003c/a>with eggs and cheese\u003ca href=\"#7\">\u003csup>7\u003c/sup>\u003c/a> and is a platform to stack additional layers of depth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139021\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139021\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"bowl of pasta with cheese\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-23.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A good bowl of pasta comes down to ingredients. \u003ccite>(Malik Francis)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fettuccinii\u003ca href=\"#8\">\u003csup>8 \u003c/sup>\u003c/a> hits a nice sweet spot: Thin enough to twirl, but wide enough to carry the eggy sauce along for the ride. Woven throughout the dish is smoke flavor layered in the form of smoked egg yolks\u003ca href=\"#9\">\u003csup>9\u003c/sup>\u003c/a>, slow rendered bacon\u003ca href=\"#10\">\u003csup>10\u003c/sup>,\u003c/a> and charcoal-activated Cyprus flake salt. When grated over the pasta, the egg yolks and bacon supply a subtle umami-rich smoke flavor that enhances the pasta’s egg flavor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"noodles2020","label":"More Noodles. "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A fruity arbequina olive oil not only prevents the fettuccini from sticking to each other, but also elevates the smoky notes with a subtle fruity heat that cuts through the richness of the egg. A custardy slow-cooked egg adorns the pasta. But it’s the salinity, texture and flavor of the charcoal-activated Cyprus sea salt that unlocks the egg’s rich beauty and unifies the whole dish. The pasta and eggs are covered in a snow of the deliciously nutty Esquirrou, a life-affirming sheep milk cheese from the French Basque region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139036\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139036\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Bowl of pasta with a fork\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Pasta-photos-24.jpg 1080w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Malik Francis\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>This egg pasta dish evokes a playfulness. The joy of cutting into the slow cooked egg, and watching the yolk ooze out of it, is paired with the fun of tossing the pasta with runny egg and cheese until it becomes a cohesive slurp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beyond the playfulness is an overarching truth: I can passionately pursue my true love of cooking while retaining my identity as a scientist. And as a skeptical scientist, even I would say \u003cem>that’s \u003c/em>a pretty sweet magic trick!\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch6>\u003csup>1 \u003c/sup>There are so many “perfect” egg pasta recipes, it can be overwhelming to know where to start. Most all of them are awesome. What I want to stress is that no matter what recipe you choose, focus on developing good technique. Learning how a proper dough should feel and taste. It sounds trite, but there is no substitution for practicing.\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"2\">\u003csup>2 \u003c/sup>You can make an awesome pasta with any of these flours durum (semolina), AP, and “00”. Durum flour has the highest protein content, and “00” has the lowest. The dough will be enriched and fortified by proteins in the eggs, so obsessing about one over the other is not time well spent. The higher protein content of semolina, does however, allows for hydration with only water.\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"3\">>\u003csup>3 \u003c/sup>At most restaurants I have worked in, we used a stand mixer with a dough hook attachment, but at home I always employ the well method. Also I find using a scale and the metric measurements gives more consistent results and the are easier to scale or down. A decent scale is affordable, and even if it was not how much would you pay not divide a 1/8 of a tsp in half?\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"4\">>\u003csup>4 \u003c/sup>The majority of the protein in the egg white is ovalbumin at about 54% of total egg-white\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"5\">\u003csup>5 \u003c/sup>Almost any pasta dough can be made \u003cu>better by vacuum sealing\u003c/u>. Knead dough until it forms a stable ball then vacuum seal in a large bag. I typically let the dough rest for 4-12 hours before rolling out into sheets. 6 One of the first haute recipes I mastered during grad school was a wonderful gruyere soufflé. It was just me, a whisk, and an amazing community who lovingly ate many of my disasters. And once I started to reproducibly craft successful soufflés, I started hosting dinner parties. Those dinner parties ultimately gave me the confidence to start working in professional\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"6\">\u003csup>6 \u003c/sup>One of the first haute recipes I mastered during grad school was a wonderful gruyere soufflé. It was just me, a whisk, and an amazing community who lovingly ate many of my disasters. And once I started to reproducibly craft successful soufflés, I started hosting dinner parties. Those dinner parties ultimately gave me the confidence to start working in professional kitchens.\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"7\">\u003csup>7 \u003c/sup>\u003cu>Alpine cheeses\u003c/u>, like \u003cu>schallenberg\u003c/u>, \u003cu>hornbacher\u003c/u> or \u003cu>chällerhocker\u003c/u>, are some of my cherished flavors. They are wonderful on their own, and glorious in a French omelet (I was OCD about mastering those as well).\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"8\">\u003csup>8 \u003c/sup> I am not an absolutist about the rules of governing pasta and sauce\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"9\">\u003csup>9 \u003c/sup>Cure egg yolks (find recipes here or here) and cold smoke with cherry or pear wood smoke for 2 hours. It’s important to cold smoke as to not cook the yolks. I will say they are pretty tasty over charred asparagus.\u003c/h6>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003ch6 id=\"10\">\u003csup>10 \u003c/sup>Take a small slab (think like “credit card cut in half” size) from the meaty portion of smoky bacon and slow render it in the oven on low heat until it takes on a caramelized jerky appearance. Cool on a lint-free towel or over a wire rack. When finely grated, this will give you a clean, smoky, umami rich bacon flavor with eating tons of fat, but save the bacon fat anyway.\u003c/h6>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/139003/the-science-and-magicof-egg-noodles","authors":["byline_bayareabites_139003"],"categories":["bayareabites_16558","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_17082"],"tags":["bayareabites_569","bayareabites_16946","bayareabites_13504","bayareabites_16945","bayareabites_377","bayareabites_16940","bayareabites_755","bayareabites_14756","bayareabites_16944"],"featImg":"bayareabites_139008","label":"source_bayareabites_139003"},"bayareabites_138990":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_138990","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"138990","score":null,"sort":[1601650804000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"could-handmade-noodles-be-the-next-sourdough-bread-of-the-pandemic","title":"Could Handmade Noodles Be the Next Sourdough Bread of the Pandemic?","publishDate":1601650804,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Back in April, when grocery shopping seemed especially precarious, I bought a 50-pound sack of flour about the size of the bag of kibble my Labrador goes through each month. Over the past five months, I’ve become proficient at feeding my sourdough starter and shaping loaves, and I find baking soothing. But we can’t live on bread alone; I’d have to find another use for all that flour. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Author Beth Bich Minh Nguyen, who relocated from Berkeley to Madison, Wisconsin, started making noodles back in April. Yaki udon is one of her kids’ favorite dinners, but the noodles were unavailable in stores. Since she often bakes cakes and pastries and has cranked out pasta in the past, she decided to try making the Japanese wheat noodle. “Udon is easier and faster, especially since I use my stand mixer to knead the dough,” said Nguyen, who couldn’t believe how easy and delicious it was. “The texture and chew! Also, the dough freezes well. So I’ve made udon numerous times now and may never go back!”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138997\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138997\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Rice, mung bean and tapicoa flours for making gluten-free Asian noodles\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1.jpg 1800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rice, mung bean and tapicoa flours for making gluten-free Asian noodles. \u003ccite>(Grace Hwang Lynch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Recent heat waves were the breaking point for me. Turning on the oven was a non-starter. Maybe it was time to try making noodles? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">First, I checked with Sonoko Sakai. Before the pandemic, she was teaching in-person workshops in the Bay Area every two months—at the San Francisco Cooking School, Japanese Cultural Center, Pollinate Farms in Oakland and SHED in Healdsburg (which has since closed)—as well at her home in Los Angeles. Since shelter-in-place, she’s taught three soba webinars. Online teaching has posed some challenges; usually she provided specialized knives and rolling pins, as well as buckwheat flour from Japan that is especially fresh and finely milled for soba. Now, she mails ingredient kits to students and has adapted her technique for everyday kitchen equipment, producing a more rustic, homestyle soba. “Just make a dough and make a ball and roll it out and cut the noodles. Keep it really simple,” she explains, adding, “Soba is a finicky dough because it’s gluten-free.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside tag=\"noodles2020\" label=\"More Noodles.\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Linda Tay Esposito is another Bay Area cook who teaches a noodle class through 18 Reasons in San Francisco. She said that making noodles isn’t that different from baking bread. “It's just working with flour and water, you see the trend with sourdough,” Tay Esposito said. “The fact that you can get your hands into it gives people a feeling of groundedness. Especially with what we’re going through right now, it’s a nice feeling.” Her technique courses—hand-pulled noodles, dumplings—have been especially popular, as quarantined home cooks have time to learn new skills. I was drawn to a class that focused on gluten-free noodles.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138998\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138998\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Rice and tapioca flours are mixed with boiling water to make khao piak sen noodles during an online cooking class with 18 Reasons\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rice and tapioca flours are mixed with boiling water to make khao piak sen noodles during an online cooking class with 18 Reasons. \u003ccite>( Grace Hwang Lynch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though gluten-free noodles can be made from rice, tapioca or mung beans, these starches are not substitutions for wheat. “In the south of China and a lot of Southeast Asia—I'm from Malaysia—we don't eat wheat, we have rice,” said Tay Esposito. “We have lots of cassava, which is tapioca. So we used those to make our noodles.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On a Sunday afternoon, I logged onto Zoom along with ten other students. First up: liang fen, a slippery, cold noodle from western China that is served with julienned cucumbers, cilantro sauce and numbing chili and Sichuan peppercorn oil. Mung bean flour was mixed into a pot of boiling water and stirred constantly until it gelatinized. Then the slurry was poured into a baking dish—like Jell-O. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138999\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138999\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Mung bean starch is whisked with hot water to create liang fen, Chinese cold noodles\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mung bean starch is whisked with hot water to create liang fen, Chinese cold noodles. \u003ccite>(Grace Hwang Lynch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Next, I whisked together rice and tapioca flours to make noodles for the Thai chicken soup, khao piak sen. My months of bread baking gave me confidence that the starch molecules would absorb the boiling water, a process called an autolyse, turning into plump dough. Some students struggled with the bright white dough, which was stickier—yet also dried out more easily—than the wheat kind. When rolled, the dough didn’t want to stay flat, snapping back into a smaller, thicker mass. But I finally managed to cut fettucine-width ribbons from it. The best part? Both the mung bean and rice and tapioca noodles provided a chewy, bouncy texture that we Taiwanese like to call “qq.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139000\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139000\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Khao piak sen Thai chicken soup with handmade rice and tapioca noodles\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7.jpg 1800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Khao piak sen Thai chicken soup with handmade rice and tapioca noodles. \u003ccite>(Grace Hwang Lynch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Afterwards, I talked with another student, Jade Wang of Palo Alto, who hasn’t seen her parents since January. Making liang fen was a way to connect with her Chinese heritage. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For her, shelter-in-place has been a time for experimenting without fear. “No one else can see your mistakes, so you may as well do it,” said Wang. “We are all experiencing a lot of sameness and a lot of interacting with screens, so doing something with my hands felt really great.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Like a loaf of bread, a package of noodles costs just a few dollars, so making them at home isn’t much of a money saver. But the sense of comfort, the connection to tradition and perhaps the reassurance of self-sufficiency might be even more valuable during these uncertain times.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-136733\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-160x16.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sonoko Sakai teaches a two-day \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sonokosakai.com/workshops-registration/two-day-vegan-ramen-1010\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">vegan ramen webinar\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> on October 10-11. 18 Reasons offers an \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sonokosakai.com/workshops-registration/two-day-vegan-ramen-1010\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Italian egg pasta online class\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> with Viola Buitoni on October 25.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Making noodles is a comforting way to connect to tradition and feel a sense of self-sufficiency. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621632480,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":16,"wordCount":1004},"headData":{"title":"Could Handmade Noodles Be the Next Sourdough Bread of the Pandemic? | KQED","description":"Making noodles is a comforting way to connect to tradition and feel a sense of self-sufficiency. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Could Handmade Noodles Be the Next Sourdough Bread of the Pandemic?","datePublished":"2020-10-02T15:00:04.000Z","dateModified":"2021-05-21T21:28:00.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"138990 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=138990","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/10/02/could-handmade-noodles-be-the-next-sourdough-bread-of-the-pandemic/","disqusTitle":"Could Handmade Noodles Be the Next Sourdough Bread of the Pandemic?","source":"KQED Noodle Week","sourceUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/noodles","nprByline":"Grace Hwang Lynch","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/138990/could-handmade-noodles-be-the-next-sourdough-bread-of-the-pandemic","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Back in April, when grocery shopping seemed especially precarious, I bought a 50-pound sack of flour about the size of the bag of kibble my Labrador goes through each month. Over the past five months, I’ve become proficient at feeding my sourdough starter and shaping loaves, and I find baking soothing. But we can’t live on bread alone; I’d have to find another use for all that flour. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Author Beth Bich Minh Nguyen, who relocated from Berkeley to Madison, Wisconsin, started making noodles back in April. Yaki udon is one of her kids’ favorite dinners, but the noodles were unavailable in stores. Since she often bakes cakes and pastries and has cranked out pasta in the past, she decided to try making the Japanese wheat noodle. “Udon is easier and faster, especially since I use my stand mixer to knead the dough,” said Nguyen, who couldn’t believe how easy and delicious it was. “The texture and chew! Also, the dough freezes well. So I’ve made udon numerous times now and may never go back!”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138997\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138997\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Rice, mung bean and tapicoa flours for making gluten-free Asian noodles\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-1.jpg 1800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rice, mung bean and tapicoa flours for making gluten-free Asian noodles. \u003ccite>(Grace Hwang Lynch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Recent heat waves were the breaking point for me. Turning on the oven was a non-starter. Maybe it was time to try making noodles? \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">First, I checked with Sonoko Sakai. Before the pandemic, she was teaching in-person workshops in the Bay Area every two months—at the San Francisco Cooking School, Japanese Cultural Center, Pollinate Farms in Oakland and SHED in Healdsburg (which has since closed)—as well at her home in Los Angeles. Since shelter-in-place, she’s taught three soba webinars. Online teaching has posed some challenges; usually she provided specialized knives and rolling pins, as well as buckwheat flour from Japan that is especially fresh and finely milled for soba. Now, she mails ingredient kits to students and has adapted her technique for everyday kitchen equipment, producing a more rustic, homestyle soba. “Just make a dough and make a ball and roll it out and cut the noodles. Keep it really simple,” she explains, adding, “Soba is a finicky dough because it’s gluten-free.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"noodles2020","label":"More Noodles. "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Linda Tay Esposito is another Bay Area cook who teaches a noodle class through 18 Reasons in San Francisco. She said that making noodles isn’t that different from baking bread. “It's just working with flour and water, you see the trend with sourdough,” Tay Esposito said. “The fact that you can get your hands into it gives people a feeling of groundedness. Especially with what we’re going through right now, it’s a nice feeling.” Her technique courses—hand-pulled noodles, dumplings—have been especially popular, as quarantined home cooks have time to learn new skills. I was drawn to a class that focused on gluten-free noodles.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138998\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138998\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Rice and tapioca flours are mixed with boiling water to make khao piak sen noodles during an online cooking class with 18 Reasons\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-3.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rice and tapioca flours are mixed with boiling water to make khao piak sen noodles during an online cooking class with 18 Reasons. \u003ccite>( Grace Hwang Lynch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Though gluten-free noodles can be made from rice, tapioca or mung beans, these starches are not substitutions for wheat. “In the south of China and a lot of Southeast Asia—I'm from Malaysia—we don't eat wheat, we have rice,” said Tay Esposito. “We have lots of cassava, which is tapioca. So we used those to make our noodles.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">On a Sunday afternoon, I logged onto Zoom along with ten other students. First up: liang fen, a slippery, cold noodle from western China that is served with julienned cucumbers, cilantro sauce and numbing chili and Sichuan peppercorn oil. Mung bean flour was mixed into a pot of boiling water and stirred constantly until it gelatinized. Then the slurry was poured into a baking dish—like Jell-O. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_138999\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-138999\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Mung bean starch is whisked with hot water to create liang fen, Chinese cold noodles\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-2.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mung bean starch is whisked with hot water to create liang fen, Chinese cold noodles. \u003ccite>(Grace Hwang Lynch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Next, I whisked together rice and tapioca flours to make noodles for the Thai chicken soup, khao piak sen. My months of bread baking gave me confidence that the starch molecules would absorb the boiling water, a process called an autolyse, turning into plump dough. Some students struggled with the bright white dough, which was stickier—yet also dried out more easily—than the wheat kind. When rolled, the dough didn’t want to stay flat, snapping back into a smaller, thicker mass. But I finally managed to cut fettucine-width ribbons from it. The best part? Both the mung bean and rice and tapioca noodles provided a chewy, bouncy texture that we Taiwanese like to call “qq.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139000\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139000\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Khao piak sen Thai chicken soup with handmade rice and tapioca noodles\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/Handmade-Noodles-7.jpg 1800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Khao piak sen Thai chicken soup with handmade rice and tapioca noodles. \u003ccite>(Grace Hwang Lynch)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Afterwards, I talked with another student, Jade Wang of Palo Alto, who hasn’t seen her parents since January. Making liang fen was a way to connect with her Chinese heritage. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">For her, shelter-in-place has been a time for experimenting without fear. “No one else can see your mistakes, so you may as well do it,” said Wang. “We are all experiencing a lot of sameness and a lot of interacting with screens, so doing something with my hands felt really great.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Like a loaf of bread, a package of noodles costs just a few dollars, so making them at home isn’t much of a money saver. But the sense of comfort, the connection to tradition and perhaps the reassurance of self-sufficiency might be even more valuable during these uncertain times.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cimg class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-136733\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-800x78.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"78\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/Q.Logo_.Break_.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-160x16.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/03/Q.Logo_.Break_-768x75.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Sonoko Sakai teaches a two-day \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sonokosakai.com/workshops-registration/two-day-vegan-ramen-1010\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">vegan ramen webinar\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> on October 10-11. 18 Reasons offers an \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ca href=\"https://www.sonokosakai.com/workshops-registration/two-day-vegan-ramen-1010\">\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Italian egg pasta online class\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/a>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> with Viola Buitoni on October 25.\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/138990/could-handmade-noodles-be-the-next-sourdough-bread-of-the-pandemic","authors":["byline_bayareabites_138990"],"categories":["bayareabites_16558","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_17082"],"tags":["bayareabites_569","bayareabites_16655","bayareabites_3435","bayareabites_16549","bayareabites_16942","bayareabites_377","bayareabites_16940","bayareabites_16874"],"featImg":"bayareabites_138996","label":"source_bayareabites_138990"},"bayareabites_139066":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_139066","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"139066","score":null,"sort":[1601650801000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"searching-for-the-elusive-vietnamese-noodle-dish-bun-ken","title":"Searching for the Elusive Vietnamese Noodle Dish Bún Kèn","publishDate":1601650801,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ci>Bún kèn \u003c/i>is one of the most treasured Vietnamese noodle dishes\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The aromatic assemblage of rice noodles topped with an amber-colored, heavily spiced, coconut fish curry, garnished with fresh herbs like bean sprouts, mint and cucumber, is not easy to find in Bay Area Vietnamese restaurants. Even if you travelled to Vietnam, you might miss it—unless you knew the right street vendor on the island of \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://cheftu.com/\">Chef Tu David Phu\u003c/a>, a Bay Area chef who also appeared on Bravo's Top Chef\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, whose family hails from \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc,\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> reverently declares he could eat bowls and bowls of it. Fish and spices, the essential elements of the dish, he explains, have always played pivotal roles on this island in the Mekong Delta, southwest of Vietnam. Its position on the Silk Road, bestowed on its cuisine an abundance of ingredients from many lands, such as lemon grass from Africa, and turmeric, ginger, and coriander from South Asia.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139072\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139072\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-800x450.jpeg\" alt=\"Spiced fish curry is the key to bún kèn from the Vietnamese island of Phú Quốc.\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-800x450.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-1020x574.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-160x90.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-768x432.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key...jpeg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spiced fish curry is the key to bún kèn from the Vietnamese island of Phú Quốc. \u003ccite>(VietnamCoracle.com https://www.vietnamcoracle.com/island-broth-bun-ken/)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although his mother cooked the dish when Phu was a child, he figures he hadn’t yet developed the palate to appreciate its assertive flavors. The first time he actually recalls tasting \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> was just a couple of years ago, at a gathering of local \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">islanders. “It had somehow got pushed out of my memory,” he says. “But it tasted familiar and something in me woke up.” Because of its strong spice profile, Phu, who is also a \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/The-2017-class-of-Chronicle-Rising-Star-Chefs-11087887.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Rising Star Chef\u003c/a>, admits he mistakenly first pegged it as Indonesian.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">[aside tag=\"noodles2020\" label=\"More Noodles.\"]\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now that he is enamored with \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the chef tries to replicate it at home. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The key element,” he says, “is the texture of the fish in the curry sauce, which needs to be ‘bouncy.’” Phu achieves this by pounding the white fish (halibut is his choice) in a mortar for over an hour. It is important, he cautions, not to grind the fish as that would \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">result in a very different texture. “In southern Vietnamese cooking,” he says, “we love things that have a bounce. Even when we chop, or grind, we’re always trying to figure out how to get more chew into it.” The time-consuming dish, he says, involves “toasting and blooming tons of lemongrass, ginger, aromatics like turmeric and curry into the oil, thus infusing it with a dark turmeric color. Like a soup or stew you have to stand and stir it gently, not let it burn or over reduce, and give it lots of attention.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although Phu cooked for years at fine New York restaurants and concedes that he is considered an excellent chef, he still feels his attempts to make\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> have not yet achieved the ideal he is striving for. “As ‘accomplished’ as I am, I can’t cook as well as my Vietnamese aunt or my mom or my grandmother or a\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Phú Quốc\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> street vendor,” he admits. “They have been doing it every day, for generations.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Bún kèn at the Soapbox Café\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139070\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139070\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Soapbox Cafe’s spices for the fish curry include: turmeric, lemon grass, makrut lime leaves, ginger, galanga, garlic and shallots.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Soapbox Cafe’s spices for the fish curry include: turmeric, lemon grass, makrut lime leaves, ginger, galanga, garlic and shallots. \u003ccite>(The Soapbox Cafe)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In his search for the perfect \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn,\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Phu discovered an unassuming Russian Hill café called Soapbox Café. When he tasted the dish made by Van Nguyen, the matriarch and cook of the family-owned restaurant who also hails from \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, he knew he had found a master. “She nailed it!” says Phu.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nguyen, her husband and two young daughters came to the U.S. as refugees in 1984 after spending two years in a Thai refugee camp. She and her older daughter, Loan Ly, have been running the café since 2015, serving mostly breakfast and lunch dishes. To celebrate their re-opening after an earthquake retrofitting in 2019, Nguyen was inspired to serve \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">for the first time at Soapbox Café.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139071\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139071\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Van Nguyen and Tu David Phu share a love of bún kèn\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Van Nguyen(left) and Tu David Phu share a love of bún kèn. \u003ccite>(The Soapbox Cafe)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although both Nguyen and Ly had previously traveled to \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> separately, their first trip to the island together was in 2017. As they visited relatives, they tasted the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> at an aunt’s food stall and were smitten. (It was Ly’s first time eating it, because her mother explained, the labor-intensive dish is not usually made at home.) Although the women inquired, their aunt would only provide them with a general idea of its preparation. But the memory of its taste was enough for Nguyen, a skilled cook, to perfect the dish when she came home. She agrees with Phu: the secret to \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is achieving the perfect texture for the fish curry, and that takes work. After cleaning, salting and boiling the fish, she pounds it with a stone mortar and pestle for two hours and then pounds it together with the spices. With her daughter interpreting over the phone, she described the desired texture as “fluffy like pork floss, or like a powder with a grainy, but bouncy texture.” The slender rice noodles at the base of the dish play an important counterbalance and require care to achieve a chewy, not mushy, texture.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nguyen plans to start offering \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">as an occasional popup special at Soapbox Cafe. (Check their website or Instagram site for details.) And her daughter will be watching very closely as her mother cooks, so that one day, she can master this special dish and carry on the family tradition.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci> Soapbox Cafe\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.thesoapboxcafe.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">https://www.thesoapboxcafe.com/\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1800 Hyde Street, San Francisco\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">415-814-3391\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">@thesoapboxcafe\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Bún kèn is a treasured Vietnamese noodle dish that is an aromatic assemblage of rice noodles, spices , fish curry and herbs. For San Francisco chef Tu David Phu, this dish is one that holds a special place for him. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621632488,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":12,"wordCount":1082},"headData":{"title":"Searching for the Elusive Vietnamese Noodle Dish Bún Kèn | KQED","description":"Bún kèn is a treasured Vietnamese noodle dish that is an aromatic assemblage of rice noodles, spices , fish curry and herbs. For San Francisco chef Tu David Phu, this dish is one that holds a special place for him. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Searching for the Elusive Vietnamese Noodle Dish Bún Kèn","datePublished":"2020-10-02T15:00:01.000Z","dateModified":"2021-05-21T21:28:08.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"139066 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=139066","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/10/02/searching-for-the-elusive-vietnamese-noodle-dish-bun-ken/","disqusTitle":"Searching for the Elusive Vietnamese Noodle Dish Bún Kèn","source":"KQED Noodle Week","sourceUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/noodles","path":"/bayareabites/139066/searching-for-the-elusive-vietnamese-noodle-dish-bun-ken","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ci>Bún kèn \u003c/i>is one of the most treasured Vietnamese noodle dishes\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">. The aromatic assemblage of rice noodles topped with an amber-colored, heavily spiced, coconut fish curry, garnished with fresh herbs like bean sprouts, mint and cucumber, is not easy to find in Bay Area Vietnamese restaurants. Even if you travelled to Vietnam, you might miss it—unless you knew the right street vendor on the island of \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003ca href=\"https://cheftu.com/\">Chef Tu David Phu\u003c/a>, a Bay Area chef who also appeared on Bravo's Top Chef\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, whose family hails from \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc,\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> reverently declares he could eat bowls and bowls of it. Fish and spices, the essential elements of the dish, he explains, have always played pivotal roles on this island in the Mekong Delta, southwest of Vietnam. Its position on the Silk Road, bestowed on its cuisine an abundance of ingredients from many lands, such as lemon grass from Africa, and turmeric, ginger, and coriander from South Asia.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139072\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139072\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-800x450.jpeg\" alt=\"Spiced fish curry is the key to bún kèn from the Vietnamese island of Phú Quốc.\" width=\"800\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-800x450.jpeg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-1020x574.jpeg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-160x90.jpeg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key..-768x432.jpeg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/1.-Spiced-fish-curry-is-the-key...jpeg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spiced fish curry is the key to bún kèn from the Vietnamese island of Phú Quốc. \u003ccite>(VietnamCoracle.com https://www.vietnamcoracle.com/island-broth-bun-ken/)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although his mother cooked the dish when Phu was a child, he figures he hadn’t yet developed the palate to appreciate its assertive flavors. The first time he actually recalls tasting \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> was just a couple of years ago, at a gathering of local \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">islanders. “It had somehow got pushed out of my memory,” he says. “But it tasted familiar and something in me woke up.” Because of its strong spice profile, Phu, who is also a \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"https://www.sfchronicle.com/restaurants/article/The-2017-class-of-Chronicle-Rising-Star-Chefs-11087887.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Rising Star Chef\u003c/a>, admits he mistakenly first pegged it as Indonesian.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"noodles2020","label":"More Noodles. "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Now that he is enamored with \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, the chef tries to replicate it at home. \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">“The key element,” he says, “is the texture of the fish in the curry sauce, which needs to be ‘bouncy.’” Phu achieves this by pounding the white fish (halibut is his choice) in a mortar for over an hour. It is important, he cautions, not to grind the fish as that would \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">result in a very different texture. “In southern Vietnamese cooking,” he says, “we love things that have a bounce. Even when we chop, or grind, we’re always trying to figure out how to get more chew into it.” The time-consuming dish, he says, involves “toasting and blooming tons of lemongrass, ginger, aromatics like turmeric and curry into the oil, thus infusing it with a dark turmeric color. Like a soup or stew you have to stand and stir it gently, not let it burn or over reduce, and give it lots of attention.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although Phu cooked for years at fine New York restaurants and concedes that he is considered an excellent chef, he still feels his attempts to make\u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> have not yet achieved the ideal he is striving for. “As ‘accomplished’ as I am, I can’t cook as well as my Vietnamese aunt or my mom or my grandmother or a\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Phú Quốc\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> street vendor,” he admits. “They have been doing it every day, for generations.”\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cb>Bún kèn at the Soapbox Café\u003c/b>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139070\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139070\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Soapbox Cafe’s spices for the fish curry include: turmeric, lemon grass, makrut lime leaves, ginger, galanga, garlic and shallots.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-1020x765.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/3.-Soapbox-cafes-spices...-1-1920x1440.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Soapbox Cafe’s spices for the fish curry include: turmeric, lemon grass, makrut lime leaves, ginger, galanga, garlic and shallots. \u003ccite>(The Soapbox Cafe)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">In his search for the perfect \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn,\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> Phu discovered an unassuming Russian Hill café called Soapbox Café. When he tasted the dish made by Van Nguyen, the matriarch and cook of the family-owned restaurant who also hails from \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, he knew he had found a master. “She nailed it!” says Phu.\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nguyen, her husband and two young daughters came to the U.S. as refugees in 1984 after spending two years in a Thai refugee camp. She and her older daughter, Loan Ly, have been running the café since 2015, serving mostly breakfast and lunch dishes. To celebrate their re-opening after an earthquake retrofitting in 2019, Nguyen was inspired to serve \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">for the first time at Soapbox Café.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139071\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139071\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-800x1067.jpg\" alt=\"Van Nguyen and Tu David Phu share a love of bún kèn\" width=\"800\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-1020x1360.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-160x213.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/6.-Van-and-Tu-scaled-e1601133660146.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Van Nguyen(left) and Tu David Phu share a love of bún kèn. \u003ccite>(The Soapbox Cafe)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Although both Nguyen and Ly had previously traveled to \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Phú Quốc\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> separately, their first trip to the island together was in 2017. As they visited relatives, they tasted the \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> at an aunt’s food stall and were smitten. (It was Ly’s first time eating it, because her mother explained, the labor-intensive dish is not usually made at home.) Although the women inquired, their aunt would only provide them with a general idea of its preparation. But the memory of its taste was enough for Nguyen, a skilled cook, to perfect the dish when she came home. She agrees with Phu: the secret to \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> is achieving the perfect texture for the fish curry, and that takes work. After cleaning, salting and boiling the fish, she pounds it with a stone mortar and pestle for two hours and then pounds it together with the spices. With her daughter interpreting over the phone, she described the desired texture as “fluffy like pork floss, or like a powder with a grainy, but bouncy texture.” The slender rice noodles at the base of the dish play an important counterbalance and require care to achieve a chewy, not mushy, texture.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Nguyen plans to start offering \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">bún kèn\u003c/span>\u003c/i> \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">as an occasional popup special at Soapbox Cafe. (Check their website or Instagram site for details.) And her daughter will be watching very closely as her mother cooks, so that one day, she can master this special dish and carry on the family tradition.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003ci> Soapbox Cafe\u003c/i>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"https://www.thesoapboxcafe.com/\">\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">https://www.thesoapboxcafe.com/\u003c/span>\u003c/a>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">1800 Hyde Street, San Francisco\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">415-814-3391\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">@thesoapboxcafe\u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/139066/searching-for-the-elusive-vietnamese-noodle-dish-bun-ken","authors":["5283"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_17082"],"tags":["bayareabites_16953","bayareabites_1359","bayareabites_377","bayareabites_16940","bayareabites_209","bayareabites_16952","bayareabites_10756"],"featImg":"bayareabites_139068","label":"source_bayareabites_139066"},"bayareabites_139058":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_139058","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"139058","score":null,"sort":[1601650800000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"yi-mian-the-long-life-noodle-filled-with-nostalgia-and-history","title":"Yi Mian: The Long Life Noodle Filled with Nostalgia and History","publishDate":1601650800,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I once believed that noodles could help me live forever. It wasn't so long ago when my grandmother repeated noodle myths from the Han dynasty around the dinner table in San Francisco’s Chinatown. She'd order heaping plates of yi mian (\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">伊面\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">), known as e-fu noodles, and twirl the generous noodles with her spoon. \"Long noodles mean long life, so don't waste!\" she'd say as she scooped another serving onto my plate. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Her words stuck with me. Every holiday dinner at Chef Hung’s in Chinatown, my sister and I scanned the menu, determined to hunt down our favorite yi mian dish (we \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">were \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">trying to live forever). Fortunately for us, it was instantly recognizable on the list, garnished with juicy lobster and stubby mushrooms, and rolled off our youthful tongues. Even when yi mian was not on the menu, grandma would wave down a waiter and send in a special order. And wherever we went, the restaurant came up with the ingredients. Like magic. Towards the end of our eight-course meal, after stuffing ourselves silly, a mountain of yi mian arrived, steamy and fragrant. But even then, the sheer amount of noodles never seemed to faze us — we slurped it all up.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139063\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139063\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles2-800x505.jpg\" alt=\"illustration of a woman wrapped in noodles with bowls of noodles around her\" width=\"800\" height=\"505\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles2-800x505.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles2-1020x644.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles2-160x101.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles2-768x485.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles2-1536x970.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles2-2048x1294.jpg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles2-1920x1213.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Besides loving yi mian’s taste, I embraced these noodles for another, less taste-related reason. I wanted to believe my grandma. I wanted to become the oldest person to ever live. \u003ccite>(Julianna Eng)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As I got older, I gravitated toward these springy noodles every chance I could. For their addictive texture and seasoning, rigorous packaging process, and as I learned recently, the dough’s secret ingredient: sodium bicarbonate, or soda water. After adding this secret ingredient to the dough, strips of dough are boiled, deep-fried, and pressed into round cakes for instant cooking. Today, you’ll find yi mian, the supposed ancestor of Momofuku Ando’s instant noodles, lining the shelves of Chinese grocers and atop of every table during Chinese New Year. Holiday or not, I seized any opportunity to get my hands on yi mian.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139060\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139060\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/original_photo2-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Bowl of yi mian\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/original_photo2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/original_photo2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/original_photo2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/original_photo2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/original_photo2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/original_photo2-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/original_photo2.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Today, you’ll find yi mian, the supposed ancestor of Momofuku Ando’s instant noodles, lining the shelves of Chinese grocers and atop of every table during Chinese New Year \u003ccite>(Jess Eng)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Besides loving yi mian’s taste, I embraced these noodles for another, less taste-related reason. I wanted to believe my grandma. I wanted to become\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> the oldest person to ever live. And I believed I could do it, if I followed my grandma’s advice. After many years of hearing her same stories\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, told with authority and reassurance, I can recount four different myths claiming to know yi mian’s origins and its connections to longevity.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[aside tag=\"noodles2020\" label=\"More Noodles.\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My grandmother’s favorite myth goes all the way back to the Han Dynasty. Embracing my face with her two hands, she told me stories of Emperor Wu, who joked that the length of one’s face, specifically the distance between a person’s nose and upper lip, determined one’s longevity. As she explained, because the Chinese pronunciation for face (liăn) sounds similar to the character for noodles (miàn), people started to associate noodles with a long life. Like the Han people two thousand years ago, I too keep this association close to me.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139061\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139061\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles-800x640.png\" alt=\"Bowl of long life noodles and illustration of Chinese characters\" width=\"800\" height=\"640\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles-800x640.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles-1020x816.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles-160x128.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles-768x614.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles-1536x1229.png 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles-2048x1638.png 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles-1920x1536.png 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">‘Long noodles mean long life, so don't waste!’ she'd say as she scooped another serving onto my plate. \u003ccite>(Jess Eng)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After telling me about the connection between longevity and noodles, she dived into her yi mian specific myths, including one that features a court official with the surname 伊 (Yi). She enjoyed telling me this story because the main character embodied characteristics she wanted me to have — gratitude, responsibility, and honor — points she made sure to emphasize throughout her story. That Yi’s people sent him gifts of long noodles to show appreciation for his leadership. That he deep fried the noodles to preserve his surplus and redistributed them to his people. That the families named the dish e-fu noodles (伊府麵), which translates to Yi family noodles, to honor him. The cult of yi mian was born, with my grandmother’s myths to thank for the introduction. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My grandma, who once beamed with passion telling me myths, now refuses to indulge in the same narratives. In her older age, she chooses practicality over myth, and as a result, I rarely rehear her stories as I did when I was younger. However, even without story after story around the dinner table, the magic of her noodle myths continues to linger. Now, these stories drum up a series of questions: Will people still associate yi mian with longevity in one thousand years? What will yi mian taste like then? What if chefs embrace mistakes while cooking, instead of striving for perfection? These questions, spurred by my grandmother’s myths, contain no answers. But they have opened up the once intimidating, whimsical future of noodles to me.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">These days, I’ll often crave a bowl of springy yi mian noodles. I’ll hear my grandmother’s voice, commanding me to eat more noodles to ensure my long life. I’ll picture a glistening mountain of noodles, twice-cooked and stir-fried to perfection. I’ll remember the legendary characters who shaped yi mian into the mythological noodle I know today. With San Francisco as my home base, I’ll never be too far away from delicious long-life noodles on Clement Street or Noriega Street and in Chinatown. But these fleeting noodle myths must find new homes, new brains to disentangle their meanings, and I’m prepared to let them soar.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"For food writer Jess Eng, yi mian is a noodle that brings nostalgia and myths rooted in times spent with her grandmother.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1621632495,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":11,"wordCount":992},"headData":{"title":"Yi Mian: The Long Life Noodle Filled with Nostalgia and History | KQED","description":"For food writer Jess Eng, yi mian is a noodle that brings nostalgia and myths rooted in times spent with her grandmother.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Yi Mian: The Long Life Noodle Filled with Nostalgia and History","datePublished":"2020-10-02T15:00:00.000Z","dateModified":"2021-05-21T21:28:15.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"139058 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=139058","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2020/10/02/yi-mian-the-long-life-noodle-filled-with-nostalgia-and-history/","disqusTitle":"Yi Mian: The Long Life Noodle Filled with Nostalgia and History","source":"KQED Noodle Week","sourceUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/noodles","nprByline":"Jess Eng","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/139058/yi-mian-the-long-life-noodle-filled-with-nostalgia-and-history","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">I once believed that noodles could help me live forever. It wasn't so long ago when my grandmother repeated noodle myths from the Han dynasty around the dinner table in San Francisco’s Chinatown. She'd order heaping plates of yi mian (\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">伊面\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">), known as e-fu noodles, and twirl the generous noodles with her spoon. \"Long noodles mean long life, so don't waste!\" she'd say as she scooped another serving onto my plate. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Her words stuck with me. Every holiday dinner at Chef Hung’s in Chinatown, my sister and I scanned the menu, determined to hunt down our favorite yi mian dish (we \u003c/span>\u003ci>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">were \u003c/span>\u003c/i>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">trying to live forever). Fortunately for us, it was instantly recognizable on the list, garnished with juicy lobster and stubby mushrooms, and rolled off our youthful tongues. Even when yi mian was not on the menu, grandma would wave down a waiter and send in a special order. And wherever we went, the restaurant came up with the ingredients. Like magic. Towards the end of our eight-course meal, after stuffing ourselves silly, a mountain of yi mian arrived, steamy and fragrant. But even then, the sheer amount of noodles never seemed to faze us — we slurped it all up.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139063\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139063\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles2-800x505.jpg\" alt=\"illustration of a woman wrapped in noodles with bowls of noodles around her\" width=\"800\" height=\"505\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles2-800x505.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles2-1020x644.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles2-160x101.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles2-768x485.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles2-1536x970.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles2-2048x1294.jpg 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles2-1920x1213.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Besides loving yi mian’s taste, I embraced these noodles for another, less taste-related reason. I wanted to believe my grandma. I wanted to become the oldest person to ever live. \u003ccite>(Julianna Eng)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">As I got older, I gravitated toward these springy noodles every chance I could. For their addictive texture and seasoning, rigorous packaging process, and as I learned recently, the dough’s secret ingredient: sodium bicarbonate, or soda water. After adding this secret ingredient to the dough, strips of dough are boiled, deep-fried, and pressed into round cakes for instant cooking. Today, you’ll find yi mian, the supposed ancestor of Momofuku Ando’s instant noodles, lining the shelves of Chinese grocers and atop of every table during Chinese New Year. Holiday or not, I seized any opportunity to get my hands on yi mian.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139060\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139060\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/original_photo2-800x533.jpg\" alt=\"Bowl of yi mian\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/original_photo2-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/original_photo2-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/original_photo2-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/original_photo2-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/original_photo2-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/original_photo2-1920x1280.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/original_photo2.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Today, you’ll find yi mian, the supposed ancestor of Momofuku Ando’s instant noodles, lining the shelves of Chinese grocers and atop of every table during Chinese New Year \u003ccite>(Jess Eng)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Besides loving yi mian’s taste, I embraced these noodles for another, less taste-related reason. I wanted to believe my grandma. I wanted to become\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> the oldest person to ever live. And I believed I could do it, if I followed my grandma’s advice. After many years of hearing her same stories\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">, told with authority and reassurance, I can recount four different myths claiming to know yi mian’s origins and its connections to longevity.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"aside","attributes":{"named":{"tag":"noodles2020","label":"More Noodles. "},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My grandmother’s favorite myth goes all the way back to the Han Dynasty. Embracing my face with her two hands, she told me stories of Emperor Wu, who joked that the length of one’s face, specifically the distance between a person’s nose and upper lip, determined one’s longevity. As she explained, because the Chinese pronunciation for face (liăn) sounds similar to the character for noodles (miàn), people started to associate noodles with a long life. Like the Han people two thousand years ago, I too keep this association close to me.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_139061\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-139061\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles-800x640.png\" alt=\"Bowl of long life noodles and illustration of Chinese characters\" width=\"800\" height=\"640\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles-800x640.png 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles-1020x816.png 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles-160x128.png 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles-768x614.png 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles-1536x1229.png 1536w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles-2048x1638.png 2048w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2020/09/art_noodles-1920x1536.png 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">‘Long noodles mean long life, so don't waste!’ she'd say as she scooped another serving onto my plate. \u003ccite>(Jess Eng)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">After telling me about the connection between longevity and noodles, she dived into her yi mian specific myths, including one that features a court official with the surname 伊 (Yi). She enjoyed telling me this story because the main character embodied characteristics she wanted me to have — gratitude, responsibility, and honor — points she made sure to emphasize throughout her story. That Yi’s people sent him gifts of long noodles to show appreciation for his leadership. That he deep fried the noodles to preserve his surplus and redistributed them to his people. That the families named the dish e-fu noodles (伊府麵), which translates to Yi family noodles, to honor him. The cult of yi mian was born, with my grandmother’s myths to thank for the introduction. \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">My grandma, who once beamed with passion telling me myths, now refuses to indulge in the same narratives. In her older age, she chooses practicality over myth, and as a result, I rarely rehear her stories as I did when I was younger. However, even without story after story around the dinner table, the magic of her noodle myths continues to linger. Now, these stories drum up a series of questions: Will people still associate yi mian with longevity in one thousand years? What will yi mian taste like then? What if chefs embrace mistakes while cooking, instead of striving for perfection? These questions, spurred by my grandmother’s myths, contain no answers. But they have opened up the once intimidating, whimsical future of noodles to me.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">These days, I’ll often crave a bowl of springy yi mian noodles. I’ll hear my grandmother’s voice, commanding me to eat more noodles to ensure my long life. I’ll picture a glistening mountain of noodles, twice-cooked and stir-fried to perfection. I’ll remember the legendary characters who shaped yi mian into the mythological noodle I know today. With San Francisco as my home base, I’ll never be too far away from delicious long-life noodles on Clement Street or Noriega Street and in Chinatown. But these fleeting noodle myths must find new homes, new brains to disentangle their meanings, and I’m prepared to let them soar.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/139058/yi-mian-the-long-life-noodle-filled-with-nostalgia-and-history","authors":["byline_bayareabites_139058"],"categories":["bayareabites_16558","bayareabites_17082"],"tags":["bayareabites_16949","bayareabites_744","bayareabites_16951","bayareabites_16621","bayareabites_16948","bayareabites_377","bayareabites_16940","bayareabites_16950","bayareabites_16947"],"featImg":"bayareabites_139064","label":"source_bayareabites_139058"},"bayareabites_122529":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_122529","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"122529","score":null,"sort":[1510957124000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"thanksgiving-leftovers-asian-style-noodle-salad-with-turkey-veggies-herbs-and-lime-peanut-vinaigrette","title":"Thanksgiving Leftovers: Asian-Style Noodle Salad with Turkey, Veggies, Herbs, and Lime-Peanut Vinaigrette","publishDate":1510957124,"format":"video","headTitle":"Transform Your Thanksgiving Leftovers | Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"term":15101,"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Recipe video by Vic Chin\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Looking for a light and healthy way to use up your turkey leftovers? Check out this amazingly easy noodle salad, which hits all the key notes: salty, crunchy, creamy, and delicious!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I admit it, I am not the best salad maker. Let me clarify: I make a \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/11/16/thanksgiving-dessert-classic-spiced-maple-pumpkin-pie/\">mean pie\u003c/a>, I can \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/05/24/memorial-day-bbq-simply-awesome-grilled-bone-in-ribeye-steak/\">grill a gorgeous steak\u003c/a>, and I love to make \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/02/18/lets-get-healthy-green-chicken-and-veggie-curry/\">curries\u003c/a>, but just a regular green salad seems to elude me. It seems simple enough, but it’s never as good as anything I get at say, \u003ca href=\"http://dellafattoria.com/\">Della Fattoria\u003c/a> or another great little café. This has been vexing me for some time. But I finally realized something: I might not pull off the world’s best green salad, but I’m pretty good at hearty, entrée-style salads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ll take what I can get. Throw me some hunks of chewy toasted bread and fresh summer tomatoes, and I’ll give you a killer panzanella. \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/07/01/time-to-grill-for-the-4th-of-july-grilled-corn-avocado-heirloom-tomato-red-onion-salad/\">Grilled corn and avocado\u003c/a>? No problem. Got some farro and roasted asparagus…I’ll make a Meyer lemon vinaigrette that will make those ingredients sing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, when I was trying to figure out a healthy, light salad that would utilize leftover turkey, I threw the whole idea of a green salad right out the door. Someone else can make that one—better than me! This salad was inspired by a truly amazing salad I had at the relatively new takeaway lunch spot, \u003ca href=\"http://www.lunchettepetaluma.com/\">Lunchette\u003c/a>, in Petaluma. Their salad is slightly different than this one, with poached shrimp, shards of coconut, and a red curry vinaigrette. But the basic premise was similar: rice noodles, shredded zucchini noodles, fresh herbs, and veggies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was with that delicious salad in mind that I came up with this recipe. The foundation of the salad is a mix of thin, vermicelli-style rice noodles and spiralized zucchini noodles. You can either use a vegetable spiral-cutter to create the zucchini noodles, purchase them already “noodled,” or just use a regular vegetable peeler and peel the zucchini into ribbons (down to the core). I added carrot, cucumber, a bunch of herbs, and some shredded leftover turkey breast. You can also just use chicken or do without it completely. Or add shrimp!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dressing is a lime and peanut vinaigrette. If you want to make a vegetarian version, just omit the fish sauce. Sambal oelek is a yummy chile paste that adds flavor and heat, but again, you can do without it but you will lose a bit of flavor (or better yet, add more for a little more spice!); substitute siracha if you can’t find sambal oelek. You can easily make the dressing in advance up to a few days ahead, just store it in the fridge in an airtight container.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hands-down this is now one of my favorite salad recipes, and is definitely going in rotation in my house.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122758\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122758\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Asian-Style Noodle Salad with Turkey, Veggies, Herbs, and Lime-Peanut Vinaigrette.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Asian-Style Noodle Salad with Turkey, Veggies, Herbs, and Lime-Peanut Vinaigrette. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Asian-Style Noodle Salad with Turkey, Veggies, Herbs, and Lime-Peanut Vinaigrette\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Dressing\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup lime juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large garlic clove, chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tbsp peanut butter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 tbsp light brown sugar, or to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp soy sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp fish sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tsp peeled and grated fresh ginger\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tsp sambal oelek (chile paste)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup vegetable oil\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122728\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122728\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new.jpg\" alt=\"Asian-Style Noodle Salad ingredients.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Asian-Style Noodle Salad ingredients. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Salad\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>4 oz vermicelli rice noodles\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 small zucchini (1/2 lb), trimmed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cups shredded leftover roast turkey\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 medium carrot, peeled\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 small (or 1/2 large) English cucumber, trimmed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup chopped Thai basil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup roughly chopped roasted salted peanuts\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 limes, cut into wedges\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>To make the dressing, add all the ingredients except oil to a blender. With the blender running, gradually add the oil, blending until the dressing is smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122719\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122719\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new.jpg\" alt=\"To make the dressing, add all the ingredients except oil to a blender. With the blender running, gradually add the oil, blending until the dressing is smooth.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">To make the dressing, add all the ingredients except oil to a blender. With the blender running, gradually add the oil, blending until the dressing is smooth. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122720\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122720\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Lime-Peanut Vinaigrette.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Lime-Peanut Vinaigrette. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Cook the noodles according to package directions. Drain in a colander, rinsing well with cold water. Drain well again.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122724\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122724\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cook the noodles according to package directions. Drain in a colander, rinsing well with cold water. Drain well again.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cook the noodles according to package directions. Drain in a colander, rinsing well with cold water. Drain well again. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Use a spiral vegetable cutter to cut the zucchini into “noodles.” You can also use a vegetable peeler to shave the zucchini into ribbons. Add to a mixing bowl with the noodles.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122726\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122726\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new.jpg\" alt=\"Use a spiral vegetable cutter to cut the zucchini into “noodles.”\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Use a spiral vegetable cutter to cut the zucchini into “noodles.” \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Shred the carrot on the large holes of a box shredder. Add to the bowl with the noodles. Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise then use a small metal spoon to scoop out the seeds. Thinly slice crosswise, then add to the bowl with the noodles. Add the shredded turkey meat. Add 1/3 cup dressing and toss gently to coat. Add half the herbs and toss again, then taste and season with salt.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122721\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122721\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new.jpg\" alt=\"Shred the carrot on the large holes of a box shredder.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shred the carrot on the large holes of a box shredder. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122722\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122722\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise then use a small metal spoon to scoop out the seeds. Thinly slice crosswise, then add to the bowl with the noodles.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise and thinly slice crosswise, then add to the bowl with the noodles. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122732\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122732\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new.jpg\" alt=\"Add the shredded turkey meat. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Add the shredded turkey meat. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122734\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122734\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new.jpg\" alt=\"Add 1/3 cup dressing and toss gently to coat. Add half the herbs and toss again, then taste and season with salt.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Add 1/3 cup dressing and toss gently to coat. Add half the herbs and toss again, then taste and season with salt. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Arrange the salad on a serving platter. Top with the remaining herbs and roasted peanuts, and arrange the lime wedges around the salad. Serve, passing additional dressing on the side.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122736\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122736\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new.jpg\" alt=\"Asian-Style Noodle Salad with Turkey, Veggies, Herbs, and Lime-Peanut Vinaigrette.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Asian-Style Noodle Salad with Turkey, Veggies, Herbs, and Lime-Peanut Vinaigrette. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Looking for a light and healthy way to use up your turkey leftovers? Check out this amazingly easy noodle salad, which hits all the key notes: salty, crunchy, creamy, and delicious!","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1571961139,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":15,"wordCount":992},"headData":{"title":"Thanksgiving Leftovers: Asian-Style Noodle Salad with Turkey, Veggies, Herbs, and Lime-Peanut Vinaigrette | KQED","description":"Looking for a light and healthy way to use up your turkey leftovers? Check out this amazingly easy noodle salad, which hits all the key notes: salty, crunchy, creamy, and delicious!","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Thanksgiving Leftovers: Asian-Style Noodle Salad with Turkey, Veggies, Herbs, and Lime-Peanut Vinaigrette","datePublished":"2017-11-17T22:18:44.000Z","dateModified":"2019-10-24T23:52:19.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"122529 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=122529","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/11/17/thanksgiving-leftovers-asian-style-noodle-salad-with-turkey-veggies-herbs-and-lime-peanut-vinaigrette/","disqusTitle":"Thanksgiving Leftovers: Asian-Style Noodle Salad with Turkey, Veggies, Herbs, and Lime-Peanut Vinaigrette","videoEmbed":"https://youtu.be/GwDT6lEX7iI","path":"/bayareabites/122529/thanksgiving-leftovers-asian-style-noodle-salad-with-turkey-veggies-herbs-and-lime-peanut-vinaigrette","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>\u003cem>Recipe video by Vic Chin\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Looking for a light and healthy way to use up your turkey leftovers? Check out this amazingly easy noodle salad, which hits all the key notes: salty, crunchy, creamy, and delicious!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I admit it, I am not the best salad maker. Let me clarify: I make a \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/11/16/thanksgiving-dessert-classic-spiced-maple-pumpkin-pie/\">mean pie\u003c/a>, I can \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/05/24/memorial-day-bbq-simply-awesome-grilled-bone-in-ribeye-steak/\">grill a gorgeous steak\u003c/a>, and I love to make \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/02/18/lets-get-healthy-green-chicken-and-veggie-curry/\">curries\u003c/a>, but just a regular green salad seems to elude me. It seems simple enough, but it’s never as good as anything I get at say, \u003ca href=\"http://dellafattoria.com/\">Della Fattoria\u003c/a> or another great little café. This has been vexing me for some time. But I finally realized something: I might not pull off the world’s best green salad, but I’m pretty good at hearty, entrée-style salads.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I’ll take what I can get. Throw me some hunks of chewy toasted bread and fresh summer tomatoes, and I’ll give you a killer panzanella. \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2016/07/01/time-to-grill-for-the-4th-of-july-grilled-corn-avocado-heirloom-tomato-red-onion-salad/\">Grilled corn and avocado\u003c/a>? No problem. Got some farro and roasted asparagus…I’ll make a Meyer lemon vinaigrette that will make those ingredients sing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, when I was trying to figure out a healthy, light salad that would utilize leftover turkey, I threw the whole idea of a green salad right out the door. Someone else can make that one—better than me! This salad was inspired by a truly amazing salad I had at the relatively new takeaway lunch spot, \u003ca href=\"http://www.lunchettepetaluma.com/\">Lunchette\u003c/a>, in Petaluma. Their salad is slightly different than this one, with poached shrimp, shards of coconut, and a red curry vinaigrette. But the basic premise was similar: rice noodles, shredded zucchini noodles, fresh herbs, and veggies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was with that delicious salad in mind that I came up with this recipe. The foundation of the salad is a mix of thin, vermicelli-style rice noodles and spiralized zucchini noodles. You can either use a vegetable spiral-cutter to create the zucchini noodles, purchase them already “noodled,” or just use a regular vegetable peeler and peel the zucchini into ribbons (down to the core). I added carrot, cucumber, a bunch of herbs, and some shredded leftover turkey breast. You can also just use chicken or do without it completely. Or add shrimp!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The dressing is a lime and peanut vinaigrette. If you want to make a vegetarian version, just omit the fish sauce. Sambal oelek is a yummy chile paste that adds flavor and heat, but again, you can do without it but you will lose a bit of flavor (or better yet, add more for a little more spice!); substitute siracha if you can’t find sambal oelek. You can easily make the dressing in advance up to a few days ahead, just store it in the fridge in an airtight container.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hands-down this is now one of my favorite salad recipes, and is definitely going in rotation in my house.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122758\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122758\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1.jpg\" alt=\"Asian-Style Noodle Salad with Turkey, Veggies, Herbs, and Lime-Peanut Vinaigrette.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9511-new1-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Asian-Style Noodle Salad with Turkey, Veggies, Herbs, and Lime-Peanut Vinaigrette. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003ch2>Recipe: Asian-Style Noodle Salad with Turkey, Veggies, Herbs, and Lime-Peanut Vinaigrette\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Dressing\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup lime juice\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 large garlic clove, chopped\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tbsp peanut butter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 tbsp light brown sugar, or to taste\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp soy sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tbsp fish sauce\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tsp peeled and grated fresh ginger\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tsp sambal oelek (chile paste)\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup vegetable oil\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122728\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122728\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new.jpg\" alt=\"Asian-Style Noodle Salad ingredients.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9294-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Asian-Style Noodle Salad ingredients. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Salad\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cli>4 oz vermicelli rice noodles\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 small zucchini (1/2 lb), trimmed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 cups shredded leftover roast turkey\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 medium carrot, peeled\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 small (or 1/2 large) English cucumber, trimmed\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup chopped Thai basil\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Kosher salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup roughly chopped roasted salted peanuts\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 limes, cut into wedges\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>To make the dressing, add all the ingredients except oil to a blender. With the blender running, gradually add the oil, blending until the dressing is smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122719\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122719\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new.jpg\" alt=\"To make the dressing, add all the ingredients except oil to a blender. With the blender running, gradually add the oil, blending until the dressing is smooth.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8917-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">To make the dressing, add all the ingredients except oil to a blender. With the blender running, gradually add the oil, blending until the dressing is smooth. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122720\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122720\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new.jpg\" alt=\"The Lime-Peanut Vinaigrette.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_8923-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Lime-Peanut Vinaigrette. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Cook the noodles according to package directions. Drain in a colander, rinsing well with cold water. Drain well again.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122724\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122724\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cook the noodles according to package directions. Drain in a colander, rinsing well with cold water. Drain well again.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9163-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cook the noodles according to package directions. Drain in a colander, rinsing well with cold water. Drain well again. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Use a spiral vegetable cutter to cut the zucchini into “noodles.” You can also use a vegetable peeler to shave the zucchini into ribbons. Add to a mixing bowl with the noodles.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122726\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122726\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new.jpg\" alt=\"Use a spiral vegetable cutter to cut the zucchini into “noodles.”\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9238-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Use a spiral vegetable cutter to cut the zucchini into “noodles.” \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Shred the carrot on the large holes of a box shredder. Add to the bowl with the noodles. Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise then use a small metal spoon to scoop out the seeds. Thinly slice crosswise, then add to the bowl with the noodles. Add the shredded turkey meat. Add 1/3 cup dressing and toss gently to coat. Add half the herbs and toss again, then taste and season with salt.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122721\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122721\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new.jpg\" alt=\"Shred the carrot on the large holes of a box shredder.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9107-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shred the carrot on the large holes of a box shredder. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122722\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122722\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new.jpg\" alt=\"Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise then use a small metal spoon to scoop out the seeds. Thinly slice crosswise, then add to the bowl with the noodles.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9140-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise and thinly slice crosswise, then add to the bowl with the noodles. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122732\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122732\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new.jpg\" alt=\"Add the shredded turkey meat. \" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9340-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Add the shredded turkey meat. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122734\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122734\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new.jpg\" alt=\"Add 1/3 cup dressing and toss gently to coat. Add half the herbs and toss again, then taste and season with salt.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9393-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Add 1/3 cup dressing and toss gently to coat. Add half the herbs and toss again, then taste and season with salt. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003col>\n\u003cli style=\"list-style-type: none\">\n\u003col>\n\u003cli>Arrange the salad on a serving platter. Top with the remaining herbs and roasted peanuts, and arrange the lime wedges around the salad. Serve, passing additional dressing on the side.\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ol>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_122736\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-122736\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new.jpg\" alt=\"Asian-Style Noodle Salad with Turkey, Veggies, Herbs, and Lime-Peanut Vinaigrette.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1280\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new.jpg 1920w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new-160x107.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new-800x533.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new-768x512.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new-1020x680.jpg 1020w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new-1180x787.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new-960x640.jpg 960w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new-240x160.jpg 240w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new-375x250.jpg 375w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2017/11/MG_9459-new-520x347.jpg 520w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Asian-Style Noodle Salad with Turkey, Veggies, Herbs, and Lime-Peanut Vinaigrette. \u003ccite>(Wendy Goodfriend)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/122529/thanksgiving-leftovers-asian-style-noodle-salad-with-turkey-veggies-herbs-and-lime-peanut-vinaigrette","authors":["5015","5014","11350"],"series":["bayareabites_15012","bayareabites_15101"],"categories":["bayareabites_2998","bayareabites_1245","bayareabites_12869","bayareabites_12549","bayareabites_12550","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_14362","bayareabites_316"],"tags":["bayareabites_377","bayareabites_1815","bayareabites_530","bayareabites_8547","bayareabites_2962","bayareabites_543"],"featImg":"bayareabites_122738","label":"bayareabites_15101"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. 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Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.","airtime":"THU 10pm, FRI 1am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Commonwealth Club of California"},"link":"/radio/program/commonwealth-club","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Commonwealth-Club-of-California-p1060/"}},"considerthis":{"id":"considerthis","title":"Consider This","tagline":"Make sense of the day","info":"Make sense of the day. Every weekday afternoon, Consider This helps you consider the major stories of the day in less than 15 minutes, featuring the reporting and storytelling resources of NPR. Plus, KQED’s Bianca Taylor brings you the local KQED news you need to know.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Consider-This-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"Consider This from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/considerthis","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"7"},"link":"/podcasts/considerthis","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1503226625?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/coronavirusdaily","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM1NS9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbA","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3Z6JdCS2d0eFEpXHKI6WqH"}},"forum":{"id":"forum","title":"Forum","tagline":"The conversation starts here","info":"KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal","officialWebsiteLink":"/forum","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"8"},"link":"/forum","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/kqeds-forum/id73329719","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432307980/forum","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqedfm-kqeds-forum-podcast","rss":"https://feeds.megaphone.fm/KQINC9557381633"}},"freakonomics-radio":{"id":"freakonomics-radio","title":"Freakonomics Radio","info":"Freakonomics Radio is a one-hour award-winning podcast and public-radio project hosted by Stephen Dubner, with co-author Steve Levitt as a regular guest. 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Updated Monday through Friday at about 3:30 p.m. PT.","airtime":"MON-FRI 4pm-4:30pm, MON-WED 6:30pm-7pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Marketplace-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.marketplace.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"American Public Media"},"link":"/radio/program/marketplace","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=201853034&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/APM-Marketplace-p88/","rss":"https://feeds.publicradio.org/public_feeds/marketplace-pm/rss/rss"}},"mindshift":{"id":"mindshift","title":"MindShift","tagline":"A podcast about the future of learning and how we raise our kids","info":"The MindShift podcast explores the innovations in education that are shaping how kids learn. Hosts Ki Sung and Katrina Schwartz introduce listeners to educators, researchers, parents and students who are developing effective ways to improve how kids learn. We cover topics like how fed-up administrators are developing surprising tactics to deal with classroom disruptions; how listening to podcasts are helping kids develop reading skills; the consequences of overparenting; and why interdisciplinary learning can engage students on all ends of the traditional achievement spectrum. This podcast is part of the MindShift education site, a division of KQED News. KQED is an NPR/PBS member station based in San Francisco. You can also visit the MindShift website for episodes and supplemental blog posts or tweet us \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/MindShiftKQED\">@MindShiftKQED\u003c/a> or visit us at \u003ca href=\"/mindshift\">MindShift.KQED.org\u003c/a>","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Mindshift-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED MindShift: How We Will Learn","officialWebsiteLink":"/mindshift/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"2"},"link":"/podcasts/mindshift","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/mindshift-podcast/id1078765985","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM1NzY0NjAwNDI5","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/464615685/mind-shift-podcast","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/stories-teachers-share","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/0MxSpNYZKNprFLCl7eEtyx"}},"morning-edition":{"id":"morning-edition","title":"Morning Edition","info":"\u003cem>Morning Edition\u003c/em> takes listeners around the country and the world with multi-faceted stories and commentaries every weekday. 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