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Photo: Carrie Kahn/NPR","credit":null,"description":null,"imgSizes":{"kqedFullSize":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/mexico-limes-1_wide-262506e6f4a0845ef3f9d572fa98cf6205a63139.jpg","width":1800,"height":1011}},"fetchFailed":false,"isLoading":false},"bayareabites_79511":{"type":"attachments","id":"bayareabites_79511","meta":{"index":"attachments_1591205162","site":"bayareabites","id":"79511","found":true},"title":"limes","publishDate":1395852141,"status":"inherit","parent":79506,"modified":1395852141,"caption":null,"credit":null,"description":null,"imgSizes":{"kqedFullSize":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/limes.jpg","width":624,"height":350}},"fetchFailed":false,"isLoading":false},"bayareabites_55057":{"type":"attachments","id":"bayareabites_55057","meta":{"index":"attachments_1591205162","site":"bayareabites","id":"55057","found":true},"title":"Boxes of tomatoes are for sale in an open air market in Immokalee, Fla.","publishDate":1358986342,"status":"inherit","parent":55056,"modified":1358986342,"caption":null,"credit":null,"description":"Boxes of tomatoes are for sale in an open air market in Immokalee, Fla.","imgSizes":{"kqedFullSize":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/tomatoes-20ef25b77b6ea20f6d3b014b71a007bd2da9bc73.jpg","width":200,"height":149}},"fetchFailed":false,"isLoading":false},"bayareabites_55038":{"type":"attachments","id":"bayareabites_55038","meta":{"index":"attachments_1591205162","site":"bayareabites","id":"55038","found":true},"title":"shrimp-ladies-Collage400x300","publishDate":1358967468,"status":"inherit","parent":54890,"modified":1358967468,"caption":null,"credit":null,"description":null,"imgSizes":{"kqedFullSize":{"file":"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/shrimp-ladies-Collage400x300.jpg","width":400,"height":300}},"fetchFailed":false,"isLoading":false}},"audioPlayerReducer":{"postId":"stream_live"},"authorsReducer":{"byline_bayareabites_135813":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_135813","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_135813","name":"Lina Blanco, Masha Pershay","isLoading":false},"byline_bayareabites_115440":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_115440","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_115440","name":"Dan Charles, NPR Food","isLoading":false},"byline_bayareabites_101583":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_101583","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_101583","name":"Tove Danovich, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/npr-food/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","isLoading":false},"byline_bayareabites_90748":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_90748","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_90748","name":"NPR Staff","isLoading":false},"byline_bayareabites_83862":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_83862","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_83862","name":"The Kitchen Sisters","isLoading":false},"byline_bayareabites_82315":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_82315","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_82315","name":"Carrie Kahn","isLoading":false},"byline_bayareabites_79506":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_79506","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_79506","name":"Carrie Kahn","isLoading":false},"byline_bayareabites_55056":{"type":"authors","id":"byline_bayareabites_55056","meta":{"override":true},"slug":"byline_bayareabites_55056","name":"Ted Robbins","isLoading":false},"annamindess":{"type":"authors","id":"5283","meta":{"index":"authors_1591205172","id":"5283","found":true},"name":"Anna Mindess","firstName":"Anna","lastName":"Mindess","slug":"annamindess","email":"amindess@aol.com","display_author_email":false,"staff_mastheads":[],"title":null,"bio":"My passion is exploring the connections between food, travel and culture. I am a regular contributor to AFAR, Edible East Bay Magazine, Oakland Magazine, Berkeleyside's NOSH and other publications. I usually take a route that's slightly off the beaten path, like \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2017/fun-with-food-insults/\">collecting food-related insults\u003c/a> around the world or \u003ca href=\"https://www.afar.com/magazine/what-i-learned-hawking-sweet-potatoes-with-a-street-vendor-in-taiwan?email=amindess%40aol.com&utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Doctors%20Without%20Borders&utm_term=Daily%20Wander%20Newsletter\">volunteering with a Sweet Potato Mama\u003c/a> (street food seller) in Tapei.\r\n\r\nCulture is the thread that ties together my several careers. I also work as a sign language interpreter, educator and author. My study of Deaf culture has taken me around the world, where I am always on a quest to find Deaf-owned restaurants. I love making connections between my different worlds, for example in this AFAR story where I share \u003ca href=\"https://www.afar.com/magazine/tips-from-a-sign-language-interpreter-for-overcoming-language-barriers\">tips for communicating across cultures\u003c/a> that I learned from the real experts, Deaf people. Or this \u003ca href=\"http://edibleeastbay.com/online-magazine/fall-harvest-2017/deaf-chefs-compete/\">profile of a Deaf chef and culinary arts instructor\u003c/a> at the California School for the Deaf.\r\n\r\nTo see my visual/edible take on the world, follow me on Instagram: \u003ca href=\"https://www.instagram.com/annamindess/\">annamindess. \u003c/a>\r\n\r\nFor more of my stories: visit Contently \u003ca href=\"http://annamindess.contently.com\">annamindess.contently.com\u003c/a>","avatar":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twitter":null,"facebook":null,"instagram":null,"linkedin":null,"sites":[{"site":"arts","roles":["author"]},{"site":"bayareabites","roles":["author"]},{"site":"food","roles":["contributor"]}],"headData":{"title":"Anna Mindess | KQED","description":null,"ogImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g","twImgSrc":"https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/5c0a68a51a07d3996f57634ef0cddaa6?s=600&d=blank&r=g"},"isLoading":false,"link":"/author/annamindess"}},"breakingNewsReducer":{},"campaignFinanceReducer":{},"firebase":{"requesting":{},"requested":{},"timestamps":{},"data":{},"ordered":{},"auth":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"authError":null,"profile":{"isLoaded":false,"isEmpty":true},"listeners":{"byId":{},"allIds":[]},"isInitializing":false,"errors":[]},"navBarReducer":{"navBarId":"arts","fullView":true,"showPlayer":false},"navMenuReducer":{"menus":[{"key":"menu1","items":[{"name":"News","link":"/","type":"title"},{"name":"Politics","link":"/politics"},{"name":"Science","link":"/science"},{"name":"Education","link":"/educationnews"},{"name":"Housing","link":"/housing"},{"name":"Immigration","link":"/immigration"},{"name":"Criminal Justice","link":"/criminaljustice"},{"name":"Silicon Valley","link":"/siliconvalley"},{"name":"Forum","link":"/forum"},{"name":"The California Report","link":"/californiareport"}]},{"key":"menu2","items":[{"name":"Arts & Culture","link":"/arts","type":"title"},{"name":"Critics’ Picks","link":"/thedolist"},{"name":"Cultural Commentary","link":"/artscommentary"},{"name":"Food & Drink","link":"/food"},{"name":"Bay Area Hip-Hop","link":"/bayareahiphop"},{"name":"Rebel Girls","link":"/rebelgirls"},{"name":"Arts Video","link":"/artsvideos"}]},{"key":"menu3","items":[{"name":"Podcasts","link":"/podcasts","type":"title"},{"name":"Bay Curious","link":"/podcasts/baycurious"},{"name":"Rightnowish","link":"/podcasts/rightnowish"},{"name":"The Bay","link":"/podcasts/thebay"},{"name":"On Our Watch","link":"/podcasts/onourwatch"},{"name":"Mindshift","link":"/podcasts/mindshift"},{"name":"Consider This","link":"/podcasts/considerthis"},{"name":"Political Breakdown","link":"/podcasts/politicalbreakdown"}]},{"key":"menu4","items":[{"name":"Live Radio","link":"/radio","type":"title"},{"name":"TV","link":"/tv","type":"title"},{"name":"Events","link":"/events","type":"title"},{"name":"For Educators","link":"/education","type":"title"},{"name":"Support KQED","link":"/support","type":"title"},{"name":"About","link":"/about","type":"title"},{"name":"Help Center","link":"https://kqed-helpcenter.kqed.org/s","type":"title"}]}]},"pagesReducer":{},"postsReducer":{"stream_live":{"type":"live","id":"stream_live","audioUrl":"https://streams.kqed.org/kqedradio","title":"Live Stream","excerpt":"Live Stream information currently unavailable.","link":"/radio","featImg":"","label":{"name":"KQED Live","link":"/"}},"stream_kqedNewscast":{"type":"posts","id":"stream_kqedNewscast","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/newscast.mp3?_=1","title":"KQED Newscast","featImg":"","label":{"name":"88.5 FM","link":"/"}},"bayareabites_135813":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_135813","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"135813","score":null,"sort":[1576546148000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"5-food-trucks-that-put-regional-mexican-plates-on-the-map","title":"5 Fruitvale Food Trucks That Put Regional Mexican Plates on the Map","publishDate":1576546148,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>All across Mexico, regional dishes are as varied as the terrain, language and cultural traditions. In Oakland's Fruitvale district, the many \u003cem>taqueros\u003c/em> and food vendors along the streets coalesce to map complex patterns of migration and weave a vibrant tapestry of food traditions from across the Americas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the dishes from these traditions are delicious, too. We recently visited five food trucks in the neighborhood to understand the regional distinctions of their offerings and hear from the people who make them. Come along with us to experience the many flavors of Fruitvale—and bring your appetite.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Aguachiles el Tamarindo\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 3053 International Blvd., Oakland, CA\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cstrong>Regions:\u003c/strong> Sinaloa, Baja California and Jalisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Afternoons, weekends\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try: \u003c/strong>\u003cem>Torre de mariscos\u003c/em>, Baja-style \u003cem>tacos de pescado \u003c/em>and \u003cem>camaron\u003c/em>, ceviche \u003cem>verde\u003c/em>, mango and \u003cem>chamoy\u003c/em> ceviche\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135897\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135897\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Torre Sinaloense with scallops, shrimp, cucumber, imitation crab, tomato, avocado and covered with salsa negra.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Enrique Galindo (El Grio, Jalisco) and family's Torre de Mariscos estilo Sinaloense with scallops, shrimp, cucumber, imitation crab, chiltepin, tomato, avocado and covered with salsa negra. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>An offshoot of Enrique Galindo and family's long-established taqueria enterprise Mi Grullense, Aguachiles el Tamarindo offers delicious taco and torta staples. But what sets them apart is their vast menu of seafood—ceviches, tostadas, cocteles and their show-stopper: the \u003cem>torre de mariscos\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Literally translated as a “tower of seafood,” the \u003cem>torre\u003c/em> has five-plus layers of tender scallops, \u003cem>jaiba\u003c/em> (imitation crab), shrimp, octopus, chiltepin, avocado, onion, tomato and cucumber, all drenched in a family recipe of Sinaloa-style \u003cem>salsa negra\u003c/em>—a punchy combination of Maggi sauce and secret ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote]To their Flamin' Hot competitor Taco Bell, manager Adriana Nieto says, \"\u003cem>Que se vaya!\u003c/em>\"[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a popular truck destination, Aguachiles el Tamarindo has creatively adapted to waves of new clientele. They've produced unique items on their menu to satisfy the cravings of locals from a variety of international traditions, including a Vietnamese and Cajun-style shrimp boil and poppin' diaspora dishes like Flamin' Hot Cheeto nachos. To their Flamin' Hot competitor Taco Bell, manager Adriana Nieto says, \"\u003cem>Que se vaya!\u003c/em>\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip:\u003c/strong> Keep coming back. The menu is so large that it will take a long time to try all of their offerings.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>El Pipirin\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 3315 Farnam St., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegion:\u003c/strong> Guadalajara, Jalisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Afternoons, early evenings\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Torta ahogada\u003c/em>, \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>, \u003cem>barbacoa de res\u003c/em>, guava and cream empanadas\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135903\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135903\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Tomato salsa (L) and chile de arbol (R) torta ahogada at El Pipirin.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tomato salsa (L) and chile de arbol (R) torta ahogada at El Pipirin. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jorge Ayllon established El Pipirin 29 years ago to bring the tastes and \u003cem>costumbres\u003c/em> of Guadalajara, Jalisco to the Bay. With pride, his family set out to offer items that couldn't be found in other restaurants in the region. That's partly what makes their \u003cem>barbacoa\u003c/em> so unique. Beyond swapping \u003cem>borrega \u003c/em>(sheep) for \u003cem>res \u003c/em>(beef) and \u003cem>lengua\u003c/em> (tongue)\u003cem>, \u003c/em>Ayllon and family use a special oven to duplicate the dish's traditional preparation, which involves cooking the meat in an underground oven for 20 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But one dish takes center stage at El Pipirin, and that's the Torta Ahogada. They've mastered the recipe over the years to produce a torta that's identical to the one you might order in Guadalajara. Its core elements include a soft-yet-sturdy \u003cem>bolillo\u003c/em> layered with beans, \u003ci>barbacoa \u003c/i>and drenched with an extra spicy \u003cem>chile de arbol \u003c/em>or a mild tomato salsa. The fiery sandwich wouldn't be complete without a garnish of finely-sliced white onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size='large' align='right' citation='Jorge Ayllon']\"El chile tiene que ser muy bravo, para que siempre venga la gente.\"[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The item that stands out as a personal favorite of ours is their \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>. Each cup bursts diced onions, finely stewed bits of \u003cem>barbacoa\u003c/em>, and a zing of lime. Beyond its singular flavor and mouth-watering aromatics, the beefy broth is loaded with a surprise ingredient: garbanzo beans. The convergence of acid, fat, heat and salt blend into an unforgettable stew perfect for dipping or enjoyed on its own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Enjoy a mini empanada made fresh daily with original ingredients including sweet cream, guava and strawberry.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>La Grana Fish\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 865 50th Ave., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions:\u003c/strong> Jalisco, Baja California, Michoacán and Sinaloa\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Saturdays and Sundays, while ingredients last\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Quesabirrias\u003c/em> (Tijuana), \u003cem>papas rellenas\u003c/em> (Mazatlán), \u003cem>aguachile\u003c/em> ceviche (Jalisco), fresh ahi tuna tostada, michelada mix\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135898\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135898\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Micheladas, cevice de aguachile, quesabirrias, papas rellenas.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Micheladas, cevice de aguachile, quesabirrias, papas rellenas. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you’ve checked your Instagram feed lately, chances are you’ve caught a glimpse of \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> accompanied by a steaming cup of \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>. \u003cem>Quesabirria\u003c/em> offerings are popping up in locations across the Bay Area and are quickly gaining a cult-like fan base. What sets the Tijuana \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> apart from its taco counterparts is the decadent combination of melty \u003cem>queso quesadilla, \u003c/em>crispy cheese edges and a heaping scoop of tangy, tender stewed \u003cem>birria de res\u003c/em>—all wrapped in a chile-dipped corn tortilla. Dunk your \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> into a steaming cup of \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>, and you’re on your way to an explosion of flavor that satisfies with every bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Grana Fish’s second show-stopper is their \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cem>papas rellenas\u003c/em>, or twice-baked potatoes,\u003c/span> with roots in Mazatlán, Sinaloa. Each giant potato teems with cheese, bacon, pickled jalapeños, a meat of your choice and a dash of green onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But don't snooze on their seafood fare—particularly the \u003cem>ceviche aguachile\u003c/em>. The recipe comes from owner Alvaro Ramos' hometown, Autlán de la Grana, Jalisco. The contrasting bite of serrano chile and pickled red onion against the tender shrimp dethrones offerings from local ceviche competitors. If you're looking for something wholly unique to La Grana fish, try their fresh ahi tuna tostada.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[pullquote size='large' align='right' citation='Ana Morales']\"It's just the two of us. We would like to expand to have a restaurant. That's our dream.\"[/pullquote]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owners Alvaro Ramos (Jalisco) and Ana Morales (Michoacán) have big dreams for La Grana Fish. What started out as a small cart launched into a popular weekend truck. Their hope is to one day open a \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">brick-and-mortar restaurant\u003c/span>, and if the long lines of eager customers prove anything, they're well on their way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Get your stuffed baked potato \u003cem>mar y tierra\u003c/em> style with carne asada and shrimp.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>El Charro\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 1502 Fruitvale Ave., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions: \u003c/strong>Familiar across Mexico, but a specialty in the north\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Saturdays and Sundays, late morning/early lunch\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try: \u003c/strong>\u003cem>Pollo asado\u003c/em> (\u003cem>al carbon\u003c/em>), ribs, papaya \u003cem>agua fresca\u003c/em> (pending availability)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135906\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135906\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Half-chicken meal of pollo al carbon, rice beans and tortillas from El Charro in East Oakland.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Half-chicken meal of pollo al carbon, rice, beans and tortillas from El Charro in East Oakland. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cooking whole chickens over charcoal is a technique shared and adapted throughout all of the Americas. In Peru, \u003cem>pollo a la brasa\u003c/em> served with yucca fries is popular, while \u003cem>pollo al carbon\u003c/em> (literally chicken to the coal) is popular across Mexico from Chihuahua to the Yucatán.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fire-braised roasted chicken is often served with fresh corn tortillas, pico de gallo and a fresh salsa of your choice (most commonly a red salsa made with broiled chile and tomatoes or a green salsa of tomatillo, jalapeño, serrano and onion).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Attached to a bustling market specializing in Latin American goods, El Charro’s custom charcoal grill churns out whole chickens and dry-rub ribs street-side from their food truck or for purchase inside the store. You can count on freshly charred chicken (and dry-rub ribs!) \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mondays–Sundays\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> starting at 8am.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Quench your thirst with any of their \u003cem>aguas frescas. \u003c/em>Papaya, pineapple, watermelon, tamarindo, jamaica are popular, depending on seasonal availability.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Tamales Acapulco Doña Tere\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 4559 International Blvd., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions:\u003c/strong> Guerrero and South Central Mexico\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go: \u003c/strong>Weekdays and Saturdays, late morning/early afternoon\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> Tamales de \u003cem>mole rojo\u003c/em>, chicharron \u003cem>tacos de canasta\u003c/em> (also known as \u003cem>al vapor\u003c/em>)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135909\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135909\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Mole rojo tamal and tamal de puerco from Tamales Acapulco in East Oakland.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mole rojo tamal and tamal de puerco from Tamales Acapulco in East Oakland. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Teresa Mondragon of Tamales Acapulco is a food entrepreneur fondly known as Doña Tere. As reported in \u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2017/10/09/tamales-acapulco-oaklands-original-tamal-joint\">Berkeleyside\u003c/a>, she's among a cohort who helped change local laws for food vending in Fruitvale nearly 20 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's what brought her food truck to Fruitvale, where she offers \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">some of the most-coveted tamales in the neighborhood\u003c/span> as well as\u003cem> tacos de canasta\u003c/em>, tortas and pupusas (a Salvadorean staple).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While mole recipes from Oaxaca and Puebla have gained the greatest popularity in the United States, it's important to remember that the indigenous roots of mole span far and wide across Central and Southern Mexico.\u003c/span> And the state of Guerrero has its own mole traditions, including the adoption of the green and nutty\u003cem> pipian, \u003c/em>as well as \u003cem>mole rosa\u003c/em> and\u003cem> mole rojo\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Doña Tere has mastered the latter. What’s special about her approach is how she folds the mole sauce into the \u003cem>masa \u003c/em>of the tamal, infusing her \u003cem>maiz\u003c/em> with the richness and complexity of pork-stewed red mole. Add a few \u003cem>tacos de canasta \u003c/em>to your order and let the fatty, stewed \u003cem>chicharron\u003c/em> and salsa verde melt on your tongue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While this food is served and consumed quickly, it's not fast food. Rather, it's a carefully-crafted \u003cem>antojito\u003c/em> (little craving) bundled in regional pride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip:\u003c/strong> On cold days, ask for \u003cem>champurrado\u003c/em>, and let the creamy combo of \u003cem>atole, piloncillo, canela, \u003c/em>chocolate and milk warm you from the inside out.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cem>Follow our eating adventures with some of our favorite dishes from these five trucks: \u003c/em>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>[gallery type=\"slideshow\" size=\"medium\" ids=\"135896,135895,135902,135904,135905,135907,135901,135900,135899,135908,135912,135929\"]\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch4>\u003cem>Hungry? Use our Google Map to find each of these spots in East Oakland. \u003c/em>\u003c/h4>\n\u003cp>\u003c!-- iframe plugin v.4.3 wordpress.org/plugins/iframe/ -->\u003cbr>\n\u003ciframe src=\"https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/2/embed?mid=1CH9ZSu7sy0moLZgXFMJrwkokteKws56n\" width=\"800\" height=\"500\" scrolling=\"yes\" class=\"iframe-class\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"From Sinaloa to Jalisco, these five food trucks in Oakland's Fruitvale district highlight the regional distinction of specialty plates of Mexico with pride. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1583623797,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":true,"iframeSrcs":["https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/2/embed"],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":true,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":37,"wordCount":1672},"headData":{"title":"5 Fruitvale Food Trucks That Put Regional Mexican Plates on the Map | KQED","description":"From Sinaloa to Jalisco, these five food trucks in Oakland's Fruitvale district highlight the regional distinction of specialty plates of Mexico with pride. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"135813 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=135813","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2019/12/16/5-food-trucks-that-put-regional-mexican-plates-on-the-map/","disqusTitle":"5 Fruitvale Food Trucks That Put Regional Mexican Plates on the Map","nprByline":"Lina Blanco, Masha Pershay","nprAudio":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/2019/12/MexFoodTrucks2way191221.wav","templateType":"standard","featuredImageType":"standard","path":"/bayareabites/135813/5-food-trucks-that-put-regional-mexican-plates-on-the-map","audioUrl":"https://www.kqed.org/.stream/anon/radio/RDnews/2019/12/MexFoodTrucks2way191221.wav","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>All across Mexico, regional dishes are as varied as the terrain, language and cultural traditions. In Oakland's Fruitvale district, the many \u003cem>taqueros\u003c/em> and food vendors along the streets coalesce to map complex patterns of migration and weave a vibrant tapestry of food traditions from across the Americas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And the dishes from these traditions are delicious, too. We recently visited five food trucks in the neighborhood to understand the regional distinctions of their offerings and hear from the people who make them. Come along with us to experience the many flavors of Fruitvale—and bring your appetite.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Aguachiles el Tamarindo\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 3053 International Blvd., Oakland, CA\u003cbr>\n\u003c/span>\u003cstrong>Regions:\u003c/strong> Sinaloa, Baja California and Jalisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Afternoons, weekends\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try: \u003c/strong>\u003cem>Torre de mariscos\u003c/em>, Baja-style \u003cem>tacos de pescado \u003c/em>and \u003cem>camaron\u003c/em>, ceviche \u003cem>verde\u003c/em>, mango and \u003cem>chamoy\u003c/em> ceviche\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135897\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135897\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Torre Sinaloense with scallops, shrimp, cucumber, imitation crab, tomato, avocado and covered with salsa negra.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Aguachiles-Tamarindo-3.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Enrique Galindo (El Grio, Jalisco) and family's Torre de Mariscos estilo Sinaloense with scallops, shrimp, cucumber, imitation crab, chiltepin, tomato, avocado and covered with salsa negra. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>An offshoot of Enrique Galindo and family's long-established taqueria enterprise Mi Grullense, Aguachiles el Tamarindo offers delicious taco and torta staples. But what sets them apart is their vast menu of seafood—ceviches, tostadas, cocteles and their show-stopper: the \u003cem>torre de mariscos\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Literally translated as a “tower of seafood,” the \u003cem>torre\u003c/em> has five-plus layers of tender scallops, \u003cem>jaiba\u003c/em> (imitation crab), shrimp, octopus, chiltepin, avocado, onion, tomato and cucumber, all drenched in a family recipe of Sinaloa-style \u003cem>salsa negra\u003c/em>—a punchy combination of Maggi sauce and secret ingredients.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"To their Flamin' Hot competitor Taco Bell, manager Adriana Nieto says, \"\u003cem>Que se vaya!\u003c/em>\"","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As a popular truck destination, Aguachiles el Tamarindo has creatively adapted to waves of new clientele. They've produced unique items on their menu to satisfy the cravings of locals from a variety of international traditions, including a Vietnamese and Cajun-style shrimp boil and poppin' diaspora dishes like Flamin' Hot Cheeto nachos. To their Flamin' Hot competitor Taco Bell, manager Adriana Nieto says, \"\u003cem>Que se vaya!\u003c/em>\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip:\u003c/strong> Keep coming back. The menu is so large that it will take a long time to try all of their offerings.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>El Pipirin\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 3315 Farnam St., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegion:\u003c/strong> Guadalajara, Jalisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Afternoons, early evenings\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Torta ahogada\u003c/em>, \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>, \u003cem>barbacoa de res\u003c/em>, guava and cream empanadas\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135903\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135903\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Tomato salsa (L) and chile de arbol (R) torta ahogada at El Pipirin.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Pipirin-2.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tomato salsa (L) and chile de arbol (R) torta ahogada at El Pipirin. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Jorge Ayllon established El Pipirin 29 years ago to bring the tastes and \u003cem>costumbres\u003c/em> of Guadalajara, Jalisco to the Bay. With pride, his family set out to offer items that couldn't be found in other restaurants in the region. That's partly what makes their \u003cem>barbacoa\u003c/em> so unique. Beyond swapping \u003cem>borrega \u003c/em>(sheep) for \u003cem>res \u003c/em>(beef) and \u003cem>lengua\u003c/em> (tongue)\u003cem>, \u003c/em>Ayllon and family use a special oven to duplicate the dish's traditional preparation, which involves cooking the meat in an underground oven for 20 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But one dish takes center stage at El Pipirin, and that's the Torta Ahogada. They've mastered the recipe over the years to produce a torta that's identical to the one you might order in Guadalajara. Its core elements include a soft-yet-sturdy \u003cem>bolillo\u003c/em> layered with beans, \u003ci>barbacoa \u003c/i>and drenched with an extra spicy \u003cem>chile de arbol \u003c/em>or a mild tomato salsa. The fiery sandwich wouldn't be complete without a garnish of finely-sliced white onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"\"El chile tiene que ser muy bravo, para que siempre venga la gente.\"","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"large","align":"right","citation":"Jorge Ayllon","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The item that stands out as a personal favorite of ours is their \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>. Each cup bursts diced onions, finely stewed bits of \u003cem>barbacoa\u003c/em>, and a zing of lime. Beyond its singular flavor and mouth-watering aromatics, the beefy broth is loaded with a surprise ingredient: garbanzo beans. The convergence of acid, fat, heat and salt blend into an unforgettable stew perfect for dipping or enjoyed on its own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Enjoy a mini empanada made fresh daily with original ingredients including sweet cream, guava and strawberry.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>La Grana Fish\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 865 50th Ave., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions:\u003c/strong> Jalisco, Baja California, Michoacán and Sinaloa\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Saturdays and Sundays, while ingredients last\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> \u003cem>Quesabirrias\u003c/em> (Tijuana), \u003cem>papas rellenas\u003c/em> (Mazatlán), \u003cem>aguachile\u003c/em> ceviche (Jalisco), fresh ahi tuna tostada, michelada mix\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135898\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135898\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Micheladas, cevice de aguachile, quesabirrias, papas rellenas.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/La-Grana-Fish-1.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Micheladas, cevice de aguachile, quesabirrias, papas rellenas. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>If you’ve checked your Instagram feed lately, chances are you’ve caught a glimpse of \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> accompanied by a steaming cup of \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>. \u003cem>Quesabirria\u003c/em> offerings are popping up in locations across the Bay Area and are quickly gaining a cult-like fan base. What sets the Tijuana \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> apart from its taco counterparts is the decadent combination of melty \u003cem>queso quesadilla, \u003c/em>crispy cheese edges and a heaping scoop of tangy, tender stewed \u003cem>birria de res\u003c/em>—all wrapped in a chile-dipped corn tortilla. Dunk your \u003cem>quesabirria\u003c/em> into a steaming cup of \u003cem>consome\u003c/em>, and you’re on your way to an explosion of flavor that satisfies with every bite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>La Grana Fish’s second show-stopper is their \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">\u003cem>papas rellenas\u003c/em>, or twice-baked potatoes,\u003c/span> with roots in Mazatlán, Sinaloa. Each giant potato teems with cheese, bacon, pickled jalapeños, a meat of your choice and a dash of green onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But don't snooze on their seafood fare—particularly the \u003cem>ceviche aguachile\u003c/em>. The recipe comes from owner Alvaro Ramos' hometown, Autlán de la Grana, Jalisco. The contrasting bite of serrano chile and pickled red onion against the tender shrimp dethrones offerings from local ceviche competitors. If you're looking for something wholly unique to La Grana fish, try their fresh ahi tuna tostada.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"\"It's just the two of us. We would like to expand to have a restaurant. That's our dream.\"","name":"pullquote","attributes":{"named":{"size":"large","align":"right","citation":"Ana Morales","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Owners Alvaro Ramos (Jalisco) and Ana Morales (Michoacán) have big dreams for La Grana Fish. What started out as a small cart launched into a popular weekend truck. Their hope is to one day open a \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">brick-and-mortar restaurant\u003c/span>, and if the long lines of eager customers prove anything, they're well on their way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Get your stuffed baked potato \u003cem>mar y tierra\u003c/em> style with carne asada and shrimp.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>El Charro\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 1502 Fruitvale Ave., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions: \u003c/strong>Familiar across Mexico, but a specialty in the north\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go:\u003c/strong> Saturdays and Sundays, late morning/early lunch\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try: \u003c/strong>\u003cem>Pollo asado\u003c/em> (\u003cem>al carbon\u003c/em>), ribs, papaya \u003cem>agua fresca\u003c/em> (pending availability)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135906\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135906\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Half-chicken meal of pollo al carbon, rice beans and tortillas from El Charro in East Oakland.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/El-Charro-4.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Half-chicken meal of pollo al carbon, rice, beans and tortillas from El Charro in East Oakland. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Cooking whole chickens over charcoal is a technique shared and adapted throughout all of the Americas. In Peru, \u003cem>pollo a la brasa\u003c/em> served with yucca fries is popular, while \u003cem>pollo al carbon\u003c/em> (literally chicken to the coal) is popular across Mexico from Chihuahua to the Yucatán.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fire-braised roasted chicken is often served with fresh corn tortillas, pico de gallo and a fresh salsa of your choice (most commonly a red salsa made with broiled chile and tomatoes or a green salsa of tomatillo, jalapeño, serrano and onion).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Attached to a bustling market specializing in Latin American goods, El Charro’s custom charcoal grill churns out whole chickens and dry-rub ribs street-side from their food truck or for purchase inside the store. You can count on freshly charred chicken (and dry-rub ribs!) \u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">Mondays–Sundays\u003c/span>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\"> starting at 8am.\u003c/span>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip: \u003c/strong>Quench your thirst with any of their \u003cem>aguas frescas. \u003c/em>Papaya, pineapple, watermelon, tamarindo, jamaica are popular, depending on seasonal availability.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Tamales Acapulco Doña Tere\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Location:\u003c/strong> 4559 International Blvd., Oakland, CA\u003cstrong>\u003cbr>\nRegions:\u003c/strong> Guerrero and South Central Mexico\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Best time to go: \u003c/strong>Weekdays and Saturdays, late morning/early afternoon\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Must try:\u003c/strong> Tamales de \u003cem>mole rojo\u003c/em>, chicharron \u003cem>tacos de canasta\u003c/em> (also known as \u003cem>al vapor\u003c/em>)\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_135909\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 800px\">\u003cimg class=\"size-medium wp-image-135909\" src=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-800x600.jpg\" alt=\"Mole rojo tamal and tamal de puerco from Tamales Acapulco in East Oakland.\" width=\"800\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-800x600.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-160x120.jpg 160w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2019/12/Tamales-Acapulco-1.jpg 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 800px) 100vw, 800px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mole rojo tamal and tamal de puerco from Tamales Acapulco in East Oakland. \u003ccite>(Masha Pershay / KQED)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Teresa Mondragon of Tamales Acapulco is a food entrepreneur fondly known as Doña Tere. As reported in \u003ca href=\"https://www.berkeleyside.com/2017/10/09/tamales-acapulco-oaklands-original-tamal-joint\">Berkeleyside\u003c/a>, she's among a cohort who helped change local laws for food vending in Fruitvale nearly 20 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's what brought her food truck to Fruitvale, where she offers \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">some of the most-coveted tamales in the neighborhood\u003c/span> as well as\u003cem> tacos de canasta\u003c/em>, tortas and pupusas (a Salvadorean staple).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400\">While mole recipes from Oaxaca and Puebla have gained the greatest popularity in the United States, it's important to remember that the indigenous roots of mole span far and wide across Central and Southern Mexico.\u003c/span> And the state of Guerrero has its own mole traditions, including the adoption of the green and nutty\u003cem> pipian, \u003c/em>as well as \u003cem>mole rosa\u003c/em> and\u003cem> mole rojo\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Doña Tere has mastered the latter. What’s special about her approach is how she folds the mole sauce into the \u003cem>masa \u003c/em>of the tamal, infusing her \u003cem>maiz\u003c/em> with the richness and complexity of pork-stewed red mole. Add a few \u003cem>tacos de canasta \u003c/em>to your order and let the fatty, stewed \u003cem>chicharron\u003c/em> and salsa verde melt on your tongue.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While this food is served and consumed quickly, it's not fast food. Rather, it's a carefully-crafted \u003cem>antojito\u003c/em> (little craving) bundled in regional pride.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pro tip:\u003c/strong> On cold days, ask for \u003cem>champurrado\u003c/em>, and let the creamy combo of \u003cem>atole, piloncillo, canela, \u003c/em>chocolate and milk warm you from the inside out.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch2>\u003cem>Follow our eating adventures with some of our favorite dishes from these five trucks: \u003c/em>\u003c/h2>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"gallery","attributes":{"named":{"type":"slideshow","size":"medium","ids":"135896,135895,135902,135904,135905,135907,135901,135900,135899,135908,135912,135929","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch4>\u003cem>Hungry? Use our Google Map to find each of these spots in East Oakland. \u003c/em>\u003c/h4>\n\u003cp>\u003c!-- iframe plugin v.4.3 wordpress.org/plugins/iframe/ -->\u003cbr>\n\u003ciframe src=\"https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/2/embed?mid=1CH9ZSu7sy0moLZgXFMJrwkokteKws56n\" width=\"800\" height=\"500\" scrolling=\"yes\" class=\"iframe-class\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/135813/5-food-trucks-that-put-regional-mexican-plates-on-the-map","authors":["byline_bayareabites_135813"],"categories":["bayareabites_109","bayareabites_752","bayareabites_8770","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_366","bayareabites_1807"],"tags":["bayareabites_16525","bayareabites_16519","bayareabites_11079","bayareabites_16263","bayareabites_9710","bayareabites_13800","bayareabites_16522","bayareabites_16524","bayareabites_14177","bayareabites_13606","bayareabites_180","bayareabites_758","bayareabites_2561","bayareabites_15518","bayareabites_16518","bayareabites_16523","bayareabites_767","bayareabites_574","bayareabites_16520","bayareabites_16521"],"featImg":"bayareabites_135959","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_115440":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_115440","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"115440","score":null,"sort":[1487310102000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"why-ditching-nafta-could-hurt-americas-farmers-more-than-mexicos","title":"Why Ditching NAFTA Could Hurt America's Farmers More Than Mexico's","publishDate":1487310102,"format":"audio","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nhttps://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2017/02/20170216_atc_why_ditching_nafta_could_hurt_americas_farmers_more_than_mexicos.mp3\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Garland Reiter is one of the people behind the rise in imported food from Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His family has been growing strawberries in California for generations and selling them under the name \u003ca href=\"https://www.driscolls.com/about/heritage\">Driscoll's\u003c/a>. Today, it's the biggest berry producer in the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the early 1990s, the Reiter family started growing strawberries and raspberries in Mexico, in addition to California. It found regions in Mexico where the climate allowed them to grow the fruit — especially raspberries — during seasons of the year when it hadn't been feasible back home. \"Our move really was for year-round product, and quality,\" says Reiter, who is executive chairman of \u003ca href=\"http://www.berry.net/\">Reiter Associated Cos\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The North American Free Trade Agreement went into effect at that same time, in 1994. But that's coincidence, Reiter says; NAFTA had very little to do with the move into Mexico. \"To tell you the truth, we paid minimal attention to that,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many U.S. fruit and vegetable growers have made the same move over the past two decades. They've all done it to expand their growing season, and also to cut costs. Farmworkers in Mexico get paid very little, compared with workers in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reiter says that when he got to Mexico and met his Mexican partners, he discovered another reason to locate there. \"They're farmers. They want to be farmers. That \u003cem>is\u003c/em> their industry,\" he says. There's excitement about new fruit varieties, and new methods of growing crops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since 1992, raspberry exports from Mexico to the U.S. have gone from zero to $500 million each year. The increase in strawberry exports is similar. Total Mexican shipments of fruits and vegetables to the U.S. have increased by nine times over the last 25 years, to $12 billion a year. People in the industry say most of that increase is a result of U.S. companies setting up production in Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>President Trump's criticism of trade with Mexico has unsettled the industry. He has talked about possibly taxing imports from Mexico or renegotiating NAFTA. Mexican officials have threatened to retaliate against American exports.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Reiter says such moves would just force Americans to pay a little more for Mexican fruit. It wouldn't bring production back to the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you look at the magnitude of the investment in Mexico, there's no way that's coming back to California,\" he says. \"There's absolutely no way.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He'll keep growing in Mexico, in part because it would be hard for Americans to replace Mexican production with fresh berries from somewhere else.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet the situation on the other side of the trade equation, for U.S exports to Mexico, is considerably different.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those exports also have grown dramatically, but a lot of them are commodities that Mexico could buy from other places, such as corn, soybeans and dairy products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Mexico is the No. 1 buyer of U.S. dairy products in the world,\" says John Wilson, senior vice president of \u003ca href=\"http://www.dfamilk.com/\">Dairy Farmers of America\u003c/a>, a cooperative with 14,000 dairy farmer members.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>American dairy farmers have come to rely on exports in recent years. About 15 percent of all milk is processed into products for export. Wilson's cooperative, for instance, has a plant in Portales, N.M., that receives milk from big dairy farmers in the eastern part of that state and dries it into powder. \"About 38 million pounds of [milk] powder moved from the plant into Mexico last year,\" Wilson says. In total, the U.S. exports about $500 million worth of milk powder to Mexico annually. That's up more than 10 times from 20 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The U.S. also exports billions of dollars' worth of corn, soybeans and pork. And NAFTA is really important for most of those exports. It allows products to enter Mexico duty-free and makes American commodities just slightly cheaper than the competition, such as milk powder from New Zealand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Pennies do matter in the milk business,\" Wilson says. \"It's a very competitive business worldwide, and the presence or absence of a tariff can make or break a deal.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wilson says he doesn't know exactly how much it would cost American dairy farmers if Mexico bought less of their milk powder. \"We don't even like to speculate about that,\" he says. But it certainly would hurt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Trade in food between the U.S. and Mexico has exploded over the past 15 years. President Trump is talking about restricting that trade, but when it comes to food, such moves could backfire.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1487317715,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":22,"wordCount":759},"headData":{"title":"Why Ditching NAFTA Could Hurt America's Farmers More Than Mexico's | KQED","description":"Trade in food between the U.S. and Mexico has exploded over the past 15 years. President Trump is talking about restricting that trade, but when it comes to food, such moves could backfire.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"115440 https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=115440","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2017/02/16/why-ditching-nafta-could-hurt-americas-farmers-more-than-mexicos/","disqusTitle":"Why Ditching NAFTA Could Hurt America's Farmers More Than Mexico's","nprImageCredit":"Mike Mozart","nprByline":"Dan Charles, NPR Food","nprImageAgency":"Flickr","nprStoryId":"515380213","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=515380213&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2017/02/16/515380213/why-ditching-nafta-could-hurt-americas-farmers-more-than-mexicos?ft=nprml&f=515380213","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 16 Feb 2017 19:12:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 16 Feb 2017 16:31:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 16 Feb 2017 19:12:20 -0500","nprAudio":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2017/02/20170216_atc_why_ditching_nafta_could_hurt_americas_farmers_more_than_mexicos.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=235&p=2&story=515380213&t=progseg&e=515539685&seg=16&ft=nprml&f=515380213","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1515638250-1714d7.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=235&p=2&story=515380213&t=progseg&e=515539685&seg=16&ft=nprml&f=515380213","path":"/bayareabites/115440/why-ditching-nafta-could-hurt-americas-farmers-more-than-mexicos","audioUrl":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2017/02/20170216_atc_why_ditching_nafta_could_hurt_americas_farmers_more_than_mexicos.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&d=235&p=2&story=515380213&t=progseg&e=515539685&seg=16&ft=nprml&f=515380213","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the story on All Things Considered:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"nprOneAudioLink","attributes":{"named":{"src":"https://ondemand.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2017/02/20170216_atc_why_ditching_nafta_could_hurt_americas_farmers_more_than_mexicos.mp3"},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Garland Reiter is one of the people behind the rise in imported food from Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>His family has been growing strawberries in California for generations and selling them under the name \u003ca href=\"https://www.driscolls.com/about/heritage\">Driscoll's\u003c/a>. Today, it's the biggest berry producer in the world.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the early 1990s, the Reiter family started growing strawberries and raspberries in Mexico, in addition to California. It found regions in Mexico where the climate allowed them to grow the fruit — especially raspberries — during seasons of the year when it hadn't been feasible back home. \"Our move really was for year-round product, and quality,\" says Reiter, who is executive chairman of \u003ca href=\"http://www.berry.net/\">Reiter Associated Cos\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The North American Free Trade Agreement went into effect at that same time, in 1994. But that's coincidence, Reiter says; NAFTA had very little to do with the move into Mexico. \"To tell you the truth, we paid minimal attention to that,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Many U.S. fruit and vegetable growers have made the same move over the past two decades. They've all done it to expand their growing season, and also to cut costs. Farmworkers in Mexico get paid very little, compared with workers in the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reiter says that when he got to Mexico and met his Mexican partners, he discovered another reason to locate there. \"They're farmers. They want to be farmers. That \u003cem>is\u003c/em> their industry,\" he says. There's excitement about new fruit varieties, and new methods of growing crops.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Since 1992, raspberry exports from Mexico to the U.S. have gone from zero to $500 million each year. The increase in strawberry exports is similar. Total Mexican shipments of fruits and vegetables to the U.S. have increased by nine times over the last 25 years, to $12 billion a year. People in the industry say most of that increase is a result of U.S. companies setting up production in Mexico.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>President Trump's criticism of trade with Mexico has unsettled the industry. He has talked about possibly taxing imports from Mexico or renegotiating NAFTA. Mexican officials have threatened to retaliate against American exports.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Reiter says such moves would just force Americans to pay a little more for Mexican fruit. It wouldn't bring production back to the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If you look at the magnitude of the investment in Mexico, there's no way that's coming back to California,\" he says. \"There's absolutely no way.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He'll keep growing in Mexico, in part because it would be hard for Americans to replace Mexican production with fresh berries from somewhere else.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Yet the situation on the other side of the trade equation, for U.S exports to Mexico, is considerably different.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Those exports also have grown dramatically, but a lot of them are commodities that Mexico could buy from other places, such as corn, soybeans and dairy products.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Mexico is the No. 1 buyer of U.S. dairy products in the world,\" says John Wilson, senior vice president of \u003ca href=\"http://www.dfamilk.com/\">Dairy Farmers of America\u003c/a>, a cooperative with 14,000 dairy farmer members.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>American dairy farmers have come to rely on exports in recent years. About 15 percent of all milk is processed into products for export. Wilson's cooperative, for instance, has a plant in Portales, N.M., that receives milk from big dairy farmers in the eastern part of that state and dries it into powder. \"About 38 million pounds of [milk] powder moved from the plant into Mexico last year,\" Wilson says. In total, the U.S. exports about $500 million worth of milk powder to Mexico annually. That's up more than 10 times from 20 years ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The U.S. also exports billions of dollars' worth of corn, soybeans and pork. And NAFTA is really important for most of those exports. It allows products to enter Mexico duty-free and makes American commodities just slightly cheaper than the competition, such as milk powder from New Zealand.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Pennies do matter in the milk business,\" Wilson says. \"It's a very competitive business worldwide, and the presence or absence of a tariff can make or break a deal.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wilson says he doesn't know exactly how much it would cost American dairy farmers if Mexico bought less of their milk powder. \"We don't even like to speculate about that,\" he says. But it certainly would hurt. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2017 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/115440/why-ditching-nafta-could-hurt-americas-farmers-more-than-mexicos","authors":["byline_bayareabites_115440"],"categories":["bayareabites_1874","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_10480","bayareabites_15761","bayareabites_134","bayareabites_2561","bayareabites_1621","bayareabites_12898","bayareabites_15697"],"featImg":"bayareabites_115441","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_101583":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_101583","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"101583","score":null,"sort":[1443824368000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"tacopedia-a-mouth-watering-tour-of-mexicos-taco-culture","title":"'Tacopedia': A Mouth-Watering Tour Of Mexico's Taco Culture","publishDate":1443824368,"format":"standard","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>While it's hard to find a person who doesn't at least like tacos, they don't always get the respect they deserve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Déborah Holtz and Juan Carlos Mena, authors of \u003cem>Tacopedia,\u003c/em> an impressive new tome, the taco is a focal point not just of Mexico's cuisine but of its culture, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101585\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/162-cochinita-pibil_vert-851c78f7f749bef36cf665b9e82803a59389a85e-400x534.jpg\" alt=\"The name of these tacos, "cochinita pibil," tells you what's inside: young pig cooked in an oven pit. It's a traditional Mayan dish that originated after the Spanish conquistadors arrived, bringing pigs with them.\" width=\"400\" height=\"534\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-101585\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/162-cochinita-pibil_vert-851c78f7f749bef36cf665b9e82803a59389a85e-400x534.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/162-cochinita-pibil_vert-851c78f7f749bef36cf665b9e82803a59389a85e-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/162-cochinita-pibil_vert-851c78f7f749bef36cf665b9e82803a59389a85e-1440x1921.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/162-cochinita-pibil_vert-851c78f7f749bef36cf665b9e82803a59389a85e-1180x1574.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/162-cochinita-pibil_vert-851c78f7f749bef36cf665b9e82803a59389a85e-960x1280.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The name of these tacos, \"cochinita pibil,\" tells you what's inside: young pig cooked in an oven pit. It's a traditional Mayan dish that originated after the Spanish conquistadors arrived, bringing pigs with them. \u003ccite>(Isais Quijano/Courtesy of Phaidon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Mexicans eat them so often that the expression \u003cem>echarse un taco,\u003c/em> to grab a taco, is synonymous with eating,\" they write. The phrase \u003cem>Le echas mucha crema a tus tacos,\u003c/em> or \"You add a lot of sour cream to your tacos,\" means that someone thinks a bit too highly of himself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To celebrate this food, the authors spent four years exploring the culture, history and variations on the taco — defined simply as \"a maize tortilla wrapped around food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101592\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/tacopedia.jpg\" alt=\"Tacopedia by Deborah Holtz and Juan Carlos Mena\" width=\"400\" height=\"521\" class=\"size-full wp-image-101592\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tacopedia by Deborah Holtz and Juan Carlos Mena\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The final book, a best-seller in Mexico, has now been translated. With over 100 recipes, profiles of taco-makers, and eye-popping illustration and photography on every page, \u003cem>Tacopedia\u003c/em> doesn't just teach readers to appreciate the taco — it makes them hungry, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though people tend to concentrate on the fillings more than the wrap, there is no taco without the tortilla. And there would be no tortilla without the discovery of a process called \u003cem>nixtamal. \u003c/em>By boiling maize in diluted lime (that's quicklime, not the green citrus) and letting the kernels stand overnight, the mixture gained enough malleability and cohesion \"to hold a shape when mixed with water,\" something maize flour and cornmeal on their own cannot do. It also increased the tortilla's nutritional value by making more protein, calcium, and niacin available for human digestion. Today, \"the poor spend almost ten percent of their food and drink budget on tortillas; the rich only 3.1 percent,\" Holtz and Mena write.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This process, and the taco itself, go back a long way. According to Holtz and Mena, \"The taco was invented between 1,000 and 500 B.C. as a kind of edible spoon.\" Much like a spoon, the taco can hold a seemingly endless number of foods. Not counting the taco's cousins — enchiladas, quesadillas or \u003cem>tlayudas\u003c/em> (kind of like a taco pizza that uses a fried or baked tortilla as the crust) — \u003cem>Tacopedia \u003c/em>lists 16 variations on this dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101586\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/044-5-tortillas-bf445591b30ec4f1f30b802df1e62aa47de7e684-e1443760474543.jpg\" alt=\"A woman prepares tortillas at Kinich Restaurant in Izamal, Yucatan, Mexico. The average Mexican consumes 135 pounds of tortillas per year.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1443\" class=\"size-full wp-image-101586\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A woman prepares tortillas at Kinich Restaurant in Izamal, Yucatan, Mexico. The average Mexican consumes 135 pounds of tortillas per year. \u003ccite>(Adam Wiseman/Courtesy of Phaidon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are the familiar seafood tacos, the slow-cooked \u003cem>barbacoa\u003c/em> (traditionally, lamb or mutton cooked overnight in an oven pit in the ground), the slow-cooked, shredded pork \u003cem>carnitas\u003c/em>. For the more adventurous, the authors give an introduction to head-meat tacos and insect tacos: grasshoppers, white and red maguey worms, the \u003cem>jumil \u003c/em>bug, or ant larvae. Then there are the varieties that depend on the way they're made or sold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101587\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/142-carnitas_vert-f91a1d770e3e57da21311e863deae6b4a09c9e62-400x533.jpg\" alt='\"One of the most famous dishes in Mexican cuisine,\" according to Tacopedia, carnitas tacos are made of pork meat, often fried in its own fat and then slow-cooked in a large pot.' width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-101587\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/142-carnitas_vert-f91a1d770e3e57da21311e863deae6b4a09c9e62-400x533.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/142-carnitas_vert-f91a1d770e3e57da21311e863deae6b4a09c9e62-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/142-carnitas_vert-f91a1d770e3e57da21311e863deae6b4a09c9e62-1440x1921.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/142-carnitas_vert-f91a1d770e3e57da21311e863deae6b4a09c9e62-1180x1574.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/142-carnitas_vert-f91a1d770e3e57da21311e863deae6b4a09c9e62-960x1280.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"One of the most famous dishes in Mexican cuisine,\" according to Tacopedia, carnitas tacos are made of pork meat, often fried in its own fat and then slow-cooked in a large pot. \u003ccite>(Ivan Sanchez/Courtesy of Phaidon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Tacos de canasta,\u003c/em> or basket tacos, for example, finish cooking after their seller heads out the door. In one method, the tacos are layered in a woven basket that's been lined with plastic to retain heat. The tacos are coated with pork rind fat, covered with raw onions and oil and then enclosed in the basket \"so the tacos start to sweat,\" the authors write. Though there are many combinations of fillings, traditional ingredients include mashed potatoes, refried beans, pressed pork rinds, and various salsas and spices. They stay warm for hours and are a lunchtime favorite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though tacos may be Mexican in origin, there isn't an archetypal \"Mexican taco.\" Visit Baja California and you might be treated to smoked marlin tacos. In Chiapas, try pito tacos, which \u003cem>Tacopedia \u003c/em>describes as being \"made with the flowers of the flame coral tree, fried in breaded patties, and served with red tomato broth.\" The small state of Querétaro might serve up beef crackling tacos, filled with beef offal and fried in pork lard. The neutral territory of the tortilla makes a welcoming home for the country's many regional specialties. Perhaps that's why for Mexico, the taco has become a defining dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"From the smoked marlin tacos of Baja California to the fried flower tacos of Chiapas, Mexico is home to endless interpretations of this essential dish. A new tome documents this vibrant taco cuisine.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1443824393,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":13,"wordCount":780},"headData":{"title":"'Tacopedia': A Mouth-Watering Tour Of Mexico's Taco Culture | KQED","description":"From the smoked marlin tacos of Baja California to the fried flower tacos of Chiapas, Mexico is home to endless interpretations of this essential dish. A new tome documents this vibrant taco cuisine.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"101583 http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=101583","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2015/10/02/tacopedia-a-mouth-watering-tour-of-mexicos-taco-culture/","disqusTitle":"'Tacopedia': A Mouth-Watering Tour Of Mexico's Taco Culture","nprByline":"Tove Danovich, \u003ca href=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/category/npr-food/\">NPR Food\u003c/a>","nprStoryId":"444466693","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=444466693&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/10/01/444466693/tacopedia-a-mouth-watering-tour-of-mexicos-taco-culture?ft=nprml&f=444466693","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Thu, 01 Oct 2015 16:38:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Thu, 01 Oct 2015 14:01:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Thu, 01 Oct 2015 16:38:21 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/101583/tacopedia-a-mouth-watering-tour-of-mexicos-taco-culture","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>While it's hard to find a person who doesn't at least like tacos, they don't always get the respect they deserve.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Déborah Holtz and Juan Carlos Mena, authors of \u003cem>Tacopedia,\u003c/em> an impressive new tome, the taco is a focal point not just of Mexico's cuisine but of its culture, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101585\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/162-cochinita-pibil_vert-851c78f7f749bef36cf665b9e82803a59389a85e-400x534.jpg\" alt=\"The name of these tacos, "cochinita pibil," tells you what's inside: young pig cooked in an oven pit. It's a traditional Mayan dish that originated after the Spanish conquistadors arrived, bringing pigs with them.\" width=\"400\" height=\"534\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-101585\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/162-cochinita-pibil_vert-851c78f7f749bef36cf665b9e82803a59389a85e-400x534.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/162-cochinita-pibil_vert-851c78f7f749bef36cf665b9e82803a59389a85e-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/162-cochinita-pibil_vert-851c78f7f749bef36cf665b9e82803a59389a85e-1440x1921.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/162-cochinita-pibil_vert-851c78f7f749bef36cf665b9e82803a59389a85e-1180x1574.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/162-cochinita-pibil_vert-851c78f7f749bef36cf665b9e82803a59389a85e-960x1280.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The name of these tacos, \"cochinita pibil,\" tells you what's inside: young pig cooked in an oven pit. It's a traditional Mayan dish that originated after the Spanish conquistadors arrived, bringing pigs with them. \u003ccite>(Isais Quijano/Courtesy of Phaidon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"Mexicans eat them so often that the expression \u003cem>echarse un taco,\u003c/em> to grab a taco, is synonymous with eating,\" they write. The phrase \u003cem>Le echas mucha crema a tus tacos,\u003c/em> or \"You add a lot of sour cream to your tacos,\" means that someone thinks a bit too highly of himself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To celebrate this food, the authors spent four years exploring the culture, history and variations on the taco — defined simply as \"a maize tortilla wrapped around food.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101592\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/tacopedia.jpg\" alt=\"Tacopedia by Deborah Holtz and Juan Carlos Mena\" width=\"400\" height=\"521\" class=\"size-full wp-image-101592\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tacopedia by Deborah Holtz and Juan Carlos Mena\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The final book, a best-seller in Mexico, has now been translated. With over 100 recipes, profiles of taco-makers, and eye-popping illustration and photography on every page, \u003cem>Tacopedia\u003c/em> doesn't just teach readers to appreciate the taco — it makes them hungry, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though people tend to concentrate on the fillings more than the wrap, there is no taco without the tortilla. And there would be no tortilla without the discovery of a process called \u003cem>nixtamal. \u003c/em>By boiling maize in diluted lime (that's quicklime, not the green citrus) and letting the kernels stand overnight, the mixture gained enough malleability and cohesion \"to hold a shape when mixed with water,\" something maize flour and cornmeal on their own cannot do. It also increased the tortilla's nutritional value by making more protein, calcium, and niacin available for human digestion. Today, \"the poor spend almost ten percent of their food and drink budget on tortillas; the rich only 3.1 percent,\" Holtz and Mena write.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This process, and the taco itself, go back a long way. According to Holtz and Mena, \"The taco was invented between 1,000 and 500 B.C. as a kind of edible spoon.\" Much like a spoon, the taco can hold a seemingly endless number of foods. Not counting the taco's cousins — enchiladas, quesadillas or \u003cem>tlayudas\u003c/em> (kind of like a taco pizza that uses a fried or baked tortilla as the crust) — \u003cem>Tacopedia \u003c/em>lists 16 variations on this dish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101586\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1920px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/044-5-tortillas-bf445591b30ec4f1f30b802df1e62aa47de7e684-e1443760474543.jpg\" alt=\"A woman prepares tortillas at Kinich Restaurant in Izamal, Yucatan, Mexico. The average Mexican consumes 135 pounds of tortillas per year.\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1443\" class=\"size-full wp-image-101586\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A woman prepares tortillas at Kinich Restaurant in Izamal, Yucatan, Mexico. The average Mexican consumes 135 pounds of tortillas per year. \u003ccite>(Adam Wiseman/Courtesy of Phaidon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>There are the familiar seafood tacos, the slow-cooked \u003cem>barbacoa\u003c/em> (traditionally, lamb or mutton cooked overnight in an oven pit in the ground), the slow-cooked, shredded pork \u003cem>carnitas\u003c/em>. For the more adventurous, the authors give an introduction to head-meat tacos and insect tacos: grasshoppers, white and red maguey worms, the \u003cem>jumil \u003c/em>bug, or ant larvae. Then there are the varieties that depend on the way they're made or sold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_101587\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\" style=\"max-width: 400px\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/142-carnitas_vert-f91a1d770e3e57da21311e863deae6b4a09c9e62-400x533.jpg\" alt='\"One of the most famous dishes in Mexican cuisine,\" according to Tacopedia, carnitas tacos are made of pork meat, often fried in its own fat and then slow-cooked in a large pot.' width=\"400\" height=\"533\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-101587\" srcset=\"https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/142-carnitas_vert-f91a1d770e3e57da21311e863deae6b4a09c9e62-400x533.jpg 400w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/142-carnitas_vert-f91a1d770e3e57da21311e863deae6b4a09c9e62-800x1067.jpg 800w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/142-carnitas_vert-f91a1d770e3e57da21311e863deae6b4a09c9e62-1440x1921.jpg 1440w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/142-carnitas_vert-f91a1d770e3e57da21311e863deae6b4a09c9e62-1180x1574.jpg 1180w, https://ww2.kqed.org/app/uploads/sites/24/2015/10/142-carnitas_vert-f91a1d770e3e57da21311e863deae6b4a09c9e62-960x1280.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\">\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">\"One of the most famous dishes in Mexican cuisine,\" according to Tacopedia, carnitas tacos are made of pork meat, often fried in its own fat and then slow-cooked in a large pot. \u003ccite>(Ivan Sanchez/Courtesy of Phaidon)\u003c/cite>\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Tacos de canasta,\u003c/em> or basket tacos, for example, finish cooking after their seller heads out the door. In one method, the tacos are layered in a woven basket that's been lined with plastic to retain heat. The tacos are coated with pork rind fat, covered with raw onions and oil and then enclosed in the basket \"so the tacos start to sweat,\" the authors write. Though there are many combinations of fillings, traditional ingredients include mashed potatoes, refried beans, pressed pork rinds, and various salsas and spices. They stay warm for hours and are a lunchtime favorite.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though tacos may be Mexican in origin, there isn't an archetypal \"Mexican taco.\" Visit Baja California and you might be treated to smoked marlin tacos. In Chiapas, try pito tacos, which \u003cem>Tacopedia \u003c/em>describes as being \"made with the flowers of the flame coral tree, fried in breaded patties, and served with red tomato broth.\" The small state of Querétaro might serve up beef crackling tacos, filled with beef offal and fried in pork lard. The neutral territory of the tortilla makes a welcoming home for the country's many regional specialties. Perhaps that's why for Mexico, the taco has become a defining dish. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2015 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/101583/tacopedia-a-mouth-watering-tour-of-mexicos-taco-culture","authors":["byline_bayareabites_101583"],"categories":["bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_1615","bayareabites_250","bayareabites_758","bayareabites_2561","bayareabites_14913","bayareabites_767"],"featImg":"bayareabites_101584","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_90748":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_90748","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"90748","score":null,"sort":[1418182274000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"mexican-megafarms-supplying-u-s-market-are-rife-with-labor-abuses","title":"Mexican Megafarms Supplying U.S. Market Are Rife With Labor Abuses","publishDate":1418182274,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90756\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 900px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/mexico-farm-labor.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/mexico-farm-labor.jpg\" alt=\"At the end of the day, Roma tomatoes are ready for transport in Cristo Rey in the state of Sinaloa. Half the tomatoes consumed in the U.S. come from Mexico. Photo: Don Bartletti/Los Angeles Times\" width=\"900\" height=\"592\" class=\"size-full wp-image-90756\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At the end of the day, Roma tomatoes are ready for transport in Cristo Rey in the state of Sinaloa. Half the tomatoes consumed in the U.S. come from Mexico. Photo: Don Bartletti/Los Angeles Times\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/12/09/369645204/mexican-megafarms-supplying-u-s-market-are-rife-with-labor-abuses\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (12/9/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Product of Mexico\" — it's a label you see on fruit and vegetable stickers in supermarkets across the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's also the name of an \u003ca href=\"http://graphics.latimes.com/product-of-mexico-camps/\">investigative series\u003c/a> appearing this week in the \u003cem>Los Angeles Times\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Morning Edition's\u003c/em> Steve Inskeep spoke to reporter Richard Marosi about his \u003ca href=\"http://graphics.latimes.com/product-of-mexico-camps/\">18-month investigation\u003c/a> in Mexico. Wednesday's story in the series follows Ricardo Martinez, a farmworker who tried, unsuccessfully, to leave a labor camp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Marosi, the farmworkers are \"the invisible people of Mexico, the poorest, the most discriminated.\" That's what makes them so vulnerable to abuse in farm labor camps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The camps are in remote regions of west and northwest Mexico, and attached to the megafarms that produce millions of pounds of tomatoes, bell peppers, cucumbers and other vegetables, much of them bound for the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90758\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 900px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/mexican-labor-camp.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/mexican-labor-camp.jpg\" alt=\"The 12-foot-by-12-foot rooms at Campo San Jose each house as many as six people, who sleep on concrete bunks nightly for months at a time. A restful night is hard to come by, as light and the sounds of crying babies and loud music spill over from adjoining rooms. Thieves jump the partitions and pilfer food, and rats scurry on the steel slats. Photo: Don Bartletti/Los Angeles Times\" width=\"900\" height=\"574\" class=\"size-full wp-image-90758\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The 12-foot-by-12-foot rooms at Campo San Jose each house as many as six people, who sleep on concrete bunks nightly for months at a time. A restful night is hard to come by, as light and the sounds of crying babies and loud music spill over from adjoining rooms. Thieves jump the partitions and pilfer food, and rats scurry on the steel slats. Photo: Don Bartletti/Los Angeles Times\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"They live in rooms six-by-eight generally, and shed-like housing, sometimes no furniture. They sleep on scraps of cardboard,\" Marosi says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The workers are forced to buy food from the company stores where the prices are heavily inflated. Even making $8 to $12 dollars a day, which is more than they might make at home, they can't keep up with the high costs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of these places, they illegally withhold the wages of the workers; they're there on three-month contracts, they're not paid until the end,\" he says. That means they don't even have the money to catch a bus and escape the farm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marosi says a lot of the blame lies with firms who project an image of social responsibility or tote their many badges of certifications from labor groups. In reality, they are not actually enforcing their standards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I went and looked at some of the places with some of the better reputations and I found appalling conditions at many of them,\" including one where people were actually being held captive, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are other problems, too: \"Some of these camps are so remote that people, even if they want to go check the conditions, don't know where they are. So it's up to the agribusiness owners to tell them and sometimes they don't,\" explains Marosi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are American exporters and representatives of retailers like Wal-Mart in Mexico, he says, but they're looking out for food safety, not the conditions of the laborers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, the farms Marosi saw has very advanced irrigation canals to grow high-quality tomatoes and cucumbers. But the labor force has no water to shower with when they go home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only way these conditions may change is if the U.S. puts pressure on the retailers who buy from the Mexican megafarms, says Marosi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90759\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 900px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/mexican-labor-camp1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/mexican-labor-camp1.jpg\" alt=\"Workers pick fresh basil in a field in Villa Benito Juarez, Sinaloa. The tender leaves are carefully boxed for export to the United States. Photo: Don Bartletti/Los Angeles Times\" width=\"900\" height=\"582\" class=\"size-full wp-image-90759\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Workers pick fresh basil in a field in Villa Benito Juarez, Sinaloa. The tender leaves are carefully boxed for export to the United States. Photo: Don Bartletti/Los Angeles Times\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"If there's consumer pressure,\" he says, \"retailers at that point can act to bring in higher, third-party, independent auditors to make sure that the [retailers'] requirements of \u003ca href=\"http://corporate.walmart.com/global-responsibility/ethical-sourcing/audit-process\">social responsibility guidelines\u003c/a> are being met.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Following Marosi's investigation, some companies have reported that they've instituted corrective action plans or ceased operations with unsafe megafarms. However, even a year after one farm was raided for its poor worker conditions, it still produced 700 million pounds of tomatoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The problem isn't limited to big box retailers either — even farmers markets can import from Mexico. As Marosi explains. \"A lot of the farmer's market is sourced from regional wholesalers or regional produce markets and much of that comes from Mexico.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For more videos and photos from the investigation, visit the \u003ca href=\"http://graphics.latimes.com/product-of-mexico-camps/\">Los Angeles Times' site\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"An investigation by the \u003cem>Los Angeles Times\u003c/em> into labor camps on Mexican megafarms reveals appalling conditions. Reporter Richard Marosi says that U.S. consumers need to pressure retailers for change.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1418182274,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":22,"wordCount":748},"headData":{"title":"Mexican Megafarms Supplying U.S. Market Are Rife With Labor Abuses | KQED","description":"An investigation by the Los Angeles Times into labor camps on Mexican megafarms reveals appalling conditions. Reporter Richard Marosi says that U.S. consumers need to pressure retailers for change.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"90748 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=90748","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/12/09/mexican-megafarms-supplying-u-s-market-are-rife-with-labor-abuses/","disqusTitle":"Mexican Megafarms Supplying U.S. Market Are Rife With Labor Abuses","nprByline":"NPR Staff","nprStoryId":"369645204","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=369645204&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/12/09/369645204/mexican-megafarms-supplying-u-s-market-are-rife-with-labor-abuses?ft=3&f=369645204","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 09 Dec 2014 21:02:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 09 Dec 2014 21:02:13 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 09 Dec 2014 21:02:13 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/90748/mexican-megafarms-supplying-u-s-market-are-rife-with-labor-abuses","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90756\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 900px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/mexico-farm-labor.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/mexico-farm-labor.jpg\" alt=\"At the end of the day, Roma tomatoes are ready for transport in Cristo Rey in the state of Sinaloa. Half the tomatoes consumed in the U.S. come from Mexico. Photo: Don Bartletti/Los Angeles Times\" width=\"900\" height=\"592\" class=\"size-full wp-image-90756\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">At the end of the day, Roma tomatoes are ready for transport in Cristo Rey in the state of Sinaloa. Half the tomatoes consumed in the U.S. come from Mexico. Photo: Don Bartletti/Los Angeles Times\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/12/09/369645204/mexican-megafarms-supplying-u-s-market-are-rife-with-labor-abuses\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (12/9/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Product of Mexico\" — it's a label you see on fruit and vegetable stickers in supermarkets across the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's also the name of an \u003ca href=\"http://graphics.latimes.com/product-of-mexico-camps/\">investigative series\u003c/a> appearing this week in the \u003cem>Los Angeles Times\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Morning Edition's\u003c/em> Steve Inskeep spoke to reporter Richard Marosi about his \u003ca href=\"http://graphics.latimes.com/product-of-mexico-camps/\">18-month investigation\u003c/a> in Mexico. Wednesday's story in the series follows Ricardo Martinez, a farmworker who tried, unsuccessfully, to leave a labor camp.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>According to Marosi, the farmworkers are \"the invisible people of Mexico, the poorest, the most discriminated.\" That's what makes them so vulnerable to abuse in farm labor camps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The camps are in remote regions of west and northwest Mexico, and attached to the megafarms that produce millions of pounds of tomatoes, bell peppers, cucumbers and other vegetables, much of them bound for the U.S.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90758\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 900px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/mexican-labor-camp.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/mexican-labor-camp.jpg\" alt=\"The 12-foot-by-12-foot rooms at Campo San Jose each house as many as six people, who sleep on concrete bunks nightly for months at a time. A restful night is hard to come by, as light and the sounds of crying babies and loud music spill over from adjoining rooms. Thieves jump the partitions and pilfer food, and rats scurry on the steel slats. Photo: Don Bartletti/Los Angeles Times\" width=\"900\" height=\"574\" class=\"size-full wp-image-90758\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The 12-foot-by-12-foot rooms at Campo San Jose each house as many as six people, who sleep on concrete bunks nightly for months at a time. A restful night is hard to come by, as light and the sounds of crying babies and loud music spill over from adjoining rooms. Thieves jump the partitions and pilfer food, and rats scurry on the steel slats. Photo: Don Bartletti/Los Angeles Times\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"They live in rooms six-by-eight generally, and shed-like housing, sometimes no furniture. They sleep on scraps of cardboard,\" Marosi says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The workers are forced to buy food from the company stores where the prices are heavily inflated. Even making $8 to $12 dollars a day, which is more than they might make at home, they can't keep up with the high costs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"A lot of these places, they illegally withhold the wages of the workers; they're there on three-month contracts, they're not paid until the end,\" he says. That means they don't even have the money to catch a bus and escape the farm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Marosi says a lot of the blame lies with firms who project an image of social responsibility or tote their many badges of certifications from labor groups. In reality, they are not actually enforcing their standards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I went and looked at some of the places with some of the better reputations and I found appalling conditions at many of them,\" including one where people were actually being held captive, he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are other problems, too: \"Some of these camps are so remote that people, even if they want to go check the conditions, don't know where they are. So it's up to the agribusiness owners to tell them and sometimes they don't,\" explains Marosi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There are American exporters and representatives of retailers like Wal-Mart in Mexico, he says, but they're looking out for food safety, not the conditions of the laborers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For example, the farms Marosi saw has very advanced irrigation canals to grow high-quality tomatoes and cucumbers. But the labor force has no water to shower with when they go home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The only way these conditions may change is if the U.S. puts pressure on the retailers who buy from the Mexican megafarms, says Marosi.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_90759\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 900px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/mexican-labor-camp1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/12/mexican-labor-camp1.jpg\" alt=\"Workers pick fresh basil in a field in Villa Benito Juarez, Sinaloa. The tender leaves are carefully boxed for export to the United States. Photo: Don Bartletti/Los Angeles Times\" width=\"900\" height=\"582\" class=\"size-full wp-image-90759\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Workers pick fresh basil in a field in Villa Benito Juarez, Sinaloa. The tender leaves are carefully boxed for export to the United States. Photo: Don Bartletti/Los Angeles Times\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"If there's consumer pressure,\" he says, \"retailers at that point can act to bring in higher, third-party, independent auditors to make sure that the [retailers'] requirements of \u003ca href=\"http://corporate.walmart.com/global-responsibility/ethical-sourcing/audit-process\">social responsibility guidelines\u003c/a> are being met.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Following Marosi's investigation, some companies have reported that they've instituted corrective action plans or ceased operations with unsafe megafarms. However, even a year after one farm was raided for its poor worker conditions, it still produced 700 million pounds of tomatoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The problem isn't limited to big box retailers either — even farmers markets can import from Mexico. As Marosi explains. \"A lot of the farmer's market is sourced from regional wholesalers or regional produce markets and much of that comes from Mexico.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>For more videos and photos from the investigation, visit the \u003ca href=\"http://graphics.latimes.com/product-of-mexico-camps/\">Los Angeles Times' site\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/90748/mexican-megafarms-supplying-u-s-market-are-rife-with-labor-abuses","authors":["byline_bayareabites_90748"],"categories":["bayareabites_1874","bayareabites_10028","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_13983","bayareabites_13982","bayareabites_13984","bayareabites_2561","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_90756","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_83862":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_83862","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"83862","score":null,"sort":[1403643507000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"tequila-nation-mexico-reckons-with-its-complicated-spirit","title":"Tequila Nation: Mexico Reckons With Its Complicated Spirit ","publishDate":1403643507,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83863\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3252px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/107705519_wide-1a03dc1f7414e697aeddc4e36756d7e0fc9c220e.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/107705519_wide-1a03dc1f7414e697aeddc4e36756d7e0fc9c220e.jpg\" alt=\"Blue agaves grow in a plantation for the production of tequila in Arandas, Jalisco state, Mexico, in December 2010. In the past 20 years, tequila has become fashionable all over the world, demonstrating that producers' international sales strategy has been a great success. Photo: Hector Guerrero/AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"3252\" height=\"1826\" class=\"size-full wp-image-83863\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Blue agaves grow in a plantation for the production of tequila in Arandas, Jalisco state, Mexico, in December 2010. In the past 20 years, tequila has become fashionable all over the world, demonstrating that producers' international sales strategy has been a great success. Photo: Hector Guerrero/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/06/24/323714694/tequila-nation-mexico-reckons-with-its-complicated-spirit\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/06/20140624_me_tequila_nation_mexico_reckons_with_its_complicated_spirit_.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/5252035/the-kitchen-sisters\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/06/24/323714694/tequila-nation-mexico-reckons-with-its-complicated-spirit\">NPR Food\u003c/a> (6/24/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Mexican town of Tequila in the western state of Jalisco is the heart of a region that produces the legendary spirit. Any bottle of tequila must be made from the Weber Blue species of agave, grown and distilled in this region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Field after field of agave gives this land a blue hue, defining an economy and its traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83864\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/img_0683-0ed78c5143b2a6b8a9ac32444545ab55bcfb6b6f.jpe\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/img_0683-0ed78c5143b2a6b8a9ac32444545ab55bcfb6b6f-290x217.jpe\" alt=\"Guillermo Erickson Sauza's family has been making tequila for five generations. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-83864\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Guillermo Erickson Sauza's family has been making tequila for five generations. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But using just one species of blue agave to make 100 percent blue agave tequila is done through cloning the plants, without pollination or flowering. After \"doing this for so many generations, the agaves are getting weaker, and the only way to protect them is by the increased use of pesticides and herbicides,\" David Suro of the Tequila Interchange Project tells us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That and other environmental issues have \u003cem>tequileros\u003c/em>, or tequila makers, concerned about the future of the industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Spirit's Hidden History\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Guillermo Erickson Sauza, a member of one of tequila's royal families, gives us a tour of his 125-year-old tequila distillery process in the town of Tequila on the northwest slope of the Tequila volcano. His distillery and hundreds of others, both large and small, fill the hills and valleys some 60 minutes outside Guadalajara, Jalisco's capital and Mexico's second-largest city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cenobio Sauza, his great-great grandfather, got to the town of Tequila in the 1850s when he was 16. At the time, it was a boomtown, and many people were setting up tequila distilleries there. The natural spring water, the rusty red volcanic soil, the climate all made the region perfect for the growing of blue agave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Cenobio started the brand of Tequila Sauza in 1873, and was the first to export tequila into the U.S. In 1893, Tequila Sauza made a sensation when it was served at the Chicago World's Fair. At that time the drink was called \u003cem>vino mescal\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Traditionally, Guillermo tells us, \"tequila was the drink of cement workers and bricklayers.\" At weddings and celebrations in Sauza's own family, and families like his, brandy was served, not tequila.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> In 1946, Guillermo's grandfather Javier took over Sauza, and slowly helped make tequila what it became — one of the premier products of Mexico. In a move that shocked his family, he sold the distillery in 1976 without warning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83875\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/tequila-siembra-azul.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/tequila-siembra-azul.jpg\" alt=\"Siembra Azul founder and owner David Suro holds a glass of tequila in one of the aging vaults at the distillery in Arandas, Jalisco, Mexico. Photo: Erich Schlegel/Erich Schlegel/Corbis\" width=\"1120\" height=\"629\" class=\"size-full wp-image-83875\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Siembra Azul founder and owner David Suro holds a glass of tequila in one of the aging vaults at the distillery in Arandas, Jalisco, Mexico. Photo: Erich Schlegel/Erich Schlegel/Corbis\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Through the years, the family held on to one of its small, old distilleries. About a decade ago, Javier's grandson decided to come back to Tequila and started making the drink in the old traditional way, using a stone crusher, taking a long time to age the spirit. He brought out his first brand, which he called Los Abuelos, or \"the grandparents,\" in Mexico. In the U.S., Los Abuelos is sold under the name Fortaleza, which means \"fortitude.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>'Agave Business Is A Casino Business'\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> It takes five to eight years for the blue agave, the only kind of agave that can be used to make official appellation tequila, to mature. Growing agave is risk-filled, and requires knowledge and maintenance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83865\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/agave-empire_custom-665afad1e3f220432d1f40f9b7ce77b68d1a5746.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/agave-empire_custom-665afad1e3f220432d1f40f9b7ce77b68d1a5746-290x184.jpg\" alt=\"Agave has been at the heart of Mexican culture for centuries. Its uses were endless: aguamiel, a fresh nectar beverage, pulgue (fermented nectar), syrup, vinegars, string, rope, shoes, textiles, nails, paper, thatch, tiles, fuel, sop, bandages and snakebite cures. Image: Courtesy of Robert English\" width=\"290\" height=\"184\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-83865\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Agave has been at the heart of Mexican culture for centuries. Its uses were endless: aguamiel, a fresh nectar beverage, pulgue (fermented nectar), syrup, vinegars, string, rope, shoes, textiles, nails, paper, thatch, tiles, fuel, sop, bandages and snakebite cures. Image: Courtesy of Robert English\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So agave growers and tequila producers must be looking far ahead at all times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \"Agave business is a casino business,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.tequilainterchangeproject.org/members/board/\">David Suro\u003c/a>, president of the Tequila Interchange Project, a nonprofit organization and consumer advocacy group for agave distilled spirits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the same way wine producers are always wrestling with climate, weather, bugs and soil conditions, the \u003cem>tequileros\u003c/em> and agave producers are working just as hard. But instead of one season of growth and then harvest, they have to tend their fields for five to eight years before the sugar levels are high enough for harvest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Suro produces a tequila, too, called Siembra Azul. \"It's kosher certified,\" he says. \"There's not a Mexican institution to certify organic. So the kosher certification is the closest [to prove how] very careful we make our tequila.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cstrong>Composting Tequila\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Mexican video journalist Rogelio Navarro says Guadalajara is the Silicon Valley of Mexico in many ways. \"I would compare the tequila industry to the electronic industry, which is so important to us here,\" Navarro says. That means tequila is likely to play a huge part in the future of Mexico's economy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Traditionally tequila was a Mexican family business passed from generation to generation. Now that is changing. \"The biggest tequila companies are not Mexican anymore; they are internationally owned,\" he says. \"Tequila produces a lot of jobs and a lot of money, and now they just the sent the first package of tequila to China, and they're expecting to sell millions of liters of tequila in China.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Navarro notes that tequila not only means alcohol — it also means culture. It's associated with folkloric dancing, with music, with film, with tourism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> The Tequila Chamber of Commerce and the Tequila Regulation Council are now very focused on what is happening with tequila all over the world, says Navarro. And they make sure that tequila produced in tequila country is actually tequila because of the agave they are using and the amount in the final product. There have long been troubles with people both in and outside of Mexico producing something they label as tequila that is not true tequila, not 100 percent blue agave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Navarro has been following some of the efforts to make tequila production more organic and sustainable, as it is an industry that produces a serious amount of waste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83879\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/pinas.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/pinas.jpg\" alt=\"Piñas are piled into the ovens at La Alteña Distillery in the highlands of Jalisco, before (left) and after being roasted, and before their juice has been fermented and distilled into tequila. Photo: Kitchen Sisters for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"425\" class=\"size-full wp-image-83879\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Piñas are piled into the ovens at La Alteña Distillery in the highlands of Jalisco, before (left) and after being roasted, and before their juice has been fermented and distilled into tequila. Photo: Kitchen Sisters for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The cellulosic waste, or bagasse, is what is left once you cook the agave plant and chop it and put it through a mill. ... What do they do with all this organic trash?\" he says. \"They were trying to compost it, and you can use it back in the agave fields as well, but in the past it's been easier to just throw away. Now, there's a guy that decided, what are people in Brazil are doing with the cane? And he bought the machines and started compressing the bagasse and making bricks, and he started to sell them as charcoal for roasting and bricks for houses.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Carlos Camarena is a third-generation family master distiller and one of the most respected \u003cem>tequileros\u003c/em> in Mexico. Tequila, Arandas and Atotonilco are three of the major areas where agave thrives and exceptional tequila is made. We make the pilgrimage with him to his La Altena distillery in the highlands of Jalisco, where he makes the legendary Tequila Tapatio, Tequila Ocho and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside is a huge round pit made of stone, with a stone wheel on top of it. \"What we are looking at is called a \u003cem>tahona\u003c/em>,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the past, the wheel was turned by mules. The stone crushes the agave and squeezes out the juice. Three years ago, Carlos' father pulled out the mules and replaced them with a John Deere tractor to pull the wheel. Tequila Siete Leguas, about an hour away near Atotonilco, is one of the last distilleries to crush its agave with the huge stone wheel pulled by mules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tequila For The Next Generation\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At La Altena, Camarena is thinking deeply about the environmental impact of making tequila. \"We're noticing the summers are getting hotter and hotter every year, and the winters are getting colder,\" he says. \"So much hot is making the plant grow faster, but not letting it get all the nutrients from the soil and develop the sugar content and the acidity and to be as healthy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> And he notes that \u003cem>tequileros\u003c/em> face a particular difficulty because blue agave plants being used to produce these millions of gallons of tequila are clones from the same mother. This monoculture style of agriculture over time requires more and more pesticides and herbicides to carry on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> About eight years ago, Camarena also got interested in treating all of the residues at the distillery instead of just dumping them in the garbage. With all the organic materials it's producing, it started making an organic fertilizer that it put back on the agave fields. And the distillery started recycling all the water it uses instead of just throwing it away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Camarena is awaiting certification as a green industry because he is focused on controlling all aspects of the \"leftovers\" the distillery creates through the tequila-making process, to make certain it has no polluting effect, including reducing emissions into the air from its boilers and stills. He tells us, \"If I want to change the world, I need to start by changing yourself, and let's see if that attracts other people to do what they have to do in order to have a better planet for people who come after us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Agave Goddess\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carmen Villareal is one of the few women in Mexico to run a tequila company. It's called Tequila San Matias, and it's now 127 years old. Villareal tells us about Mayahuel, the pre-Columbian goddess of fertility and maternity who is a sort of patron saint of tequila and is often pictured with 200 breasts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Our agaves have babies,\" says Villareal. \"Normally one agave can have 10 or 12 babies, so it is about being productive.\" Villareal sees Mexico through the eyes of Mayaguel, the productivity and fertility of tequila working for the growth and wellness of the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Mexico is a country with great poverty,\" she says. \"Tequila is an important income for the country. For example, our distillery is located in a tiny town, and we are practically the only source of work in the area. The way I see the industry, we we can help bring wellness and opportunity to our country.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>More From The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchensisters.org/\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, Davia Nelson and Nikki Silva, are Peabody Award-winning independent producers who create radio and multimedia stories for NPR and public broadcast. Their \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/series/91851784/hidden-kitchens-the-kitchen-sisters\">Hidden Kitchen\u003c/a> series travels the world, chronicling little-known kitchen rituals and traditions that explore how communities come together through food — from modern-day Sicily to medieval England, the Australian Outback to the desert oasis of California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Some of tequila's oldest traditions are fast being erased as international spirit conglomerates take over family businesses. And tequila makers are worried about their impact on the environment.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1403643507,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":43,"wordCount":1886},"headData":{"title":"Tequila Nation: Mexico Reckons With Its Complicated Spirit | KQED","description":"Some of tequila's oldest traditions are fast being erased as international spirit conglomerates take over family businesses. And tequila makers are worried about their impact on the environment.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"83862 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=83862","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/06/24/tequila-nation-mexico-reckons-with-its-complicated-spirit/","disqusTitle":"Tequila Nation: Mexico Reckons With Its Complicated Spirit ","nprByline":"The Kitchen Sisters","nprStoryId":"323714694","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=323714694&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/06/24/323714694/tequila-nation-mexico-reckons-with-its-complicated-spirit?ft=3&f=323714694","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Tue, 24 Jun 2014 10:24:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Tue, 24 Jun 2014 03:28:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Tue, 24 Jun 2014 10:24:24 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/06/20140624_me_tequila_nation_mexico_reckons_with_its_complicated_spirit_.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&ft=3&f=323714694","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1325073894-46786d.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=91851784&ft=3&f=323714694","path":"/bayareabites/83862/tequila-nation-mexico-reckons-with-its-complicated-spirit","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/06/20140624_me_tequila_nation_mexico_reckons_with_its_complicated_spirit_.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83863\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 3252px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/107705519_wide-1a03dc1f7414e697aeddc4e36756d7e0fc9c220e.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/107705519_wide-1a03dc1f7414e697aeddc4e36756d7e0fc9c220e.jpg\" alt=\"Blue agaves grow in a plantation for the production of tequila in Arandas, Jalisco state, Mexico, in December 2010. In the past 20 years, tequila has become fashionable all over the world, demonstrating that producers' international sales strategy has been a great success. Photo: Hector Guerrero/AFP/Getty Images\" width=\"3252\" height=\"1826\" class=\"size-full wp-image-83863\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Blue agaves grow in a plantation for the production of tequila in Arandas, Jalisco state, Mexico, in December 2010. In the past 20 years, tequila has become fashionable all over the world, demonstrating that producers' international sales strategy has been a great success. Photo: Hector Guerrero/AFP/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/06/24/323714694/tequila-nation-mexico-reckons-with-its-complicated-spirit\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/06/20140624_me_tequila_nation_mexico_reckons_with_its_complicated_spirit_.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/5252035/the-kitchen-sisters\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/06/24/323714694/tequila-nation-mexico-reckons-with-its-complicated-spirit\">NPR Food\u003c/a> (6/24/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Mexican town of Tequila in the western state of Jalisco is the heart of a region that produces the legendary spirit. Any bottle of tequila must be made from the Weber Blue species of agave, grown and distilled in this region.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Field after field of agave gives this land a blue hue, defining an economy and its traditions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83864\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/img_0683-0ed78c5143b2a6b8a9ac32444545ab55bcfb6b6f.jpe\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/img_0683-0ed78c5143b2a6b8a9ac32444545ab55bcfb6b6f-290x217.jpe\" alt=\"Guillermo Erickson Sauza's family has been making tequila for five generations. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters for NPR\" width=\"290\" height=\"217\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-83864\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Guillermo Erickson Sauza's family has been making tequila for five generations. Photo: The Kitchen Sisters for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>But using just one species of blue agave to make 100 percent blue agave tequila is done through cloning the plants, without pollination or flowering. After \"doing this for so many generations, the agaves are getting weaker, and the only way to protect them is by the increased use of pesticides and herbicides,\" David Suro of the Tequila Interchange Project tells us.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That and other environmental issues have \u003cem>tequileros\u003c/em>, or tequila makers, concerned about the future of the industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Spirit's Hidden History\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Guillermo Erickson Sauza, a member of one of tequila's royal families, gives us a tour of his 125-year-old tequila distillery process in the town of Tequila on the northwest slope of the Tequila volcano. His distillery and hundreds of others, both large and small, fill the hills and valleys some 60 minutes outside Guadalajara, Jalisco's capital and Mexico's second-largest city.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cenobio Sauza, his great-great grandfather, got to the town of Tequila in the 1850s when he was 16. At the time, it was a boomtown, and many people were setting up tequila distilleries there. The natural spring water, the rusty red volcanic soil, the climate all made the region perfect for the growing of blue agave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Cenobio started the brand of Tequila Sauza in 1873, and was the first to export tequila into the U.S. In 1893, Tequila Sauza made a sensation when it was served at the Chicago World's Fair. At that time the drink was called \u003cem>vino mescal\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Traditionally, Guillermo tells us, \"tequila was the drink of cement workers and bricklayers.\" At weddings and celebrations in Sauza's own family, and families like his, brandy was served, not tequila.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> In 1946, Guillermo's grandfather Javier took over Sauza, and slowly helped make tequila what it became — one of the premier products of Mexico. In a move that shocked his family, he sold the distillery in 1976 without warning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83875\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/tequila-siembra-azul.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/tequila-siembra-azul.jpg\" alt=\"Siembra Azul founder and owner David Suro holds a glass of tequila in one of the aging vaults at the distillery in Arandas, Jalisco, Mexico. Photo: Erich Schlegel/Erich Schlegel/Corbis\" width=\"1120\" height=\"629\" class=\"size-full wp-image-83875\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Siembra Azul founder and owner David Suro holds a glass of tequila in one of the aging vaults at the distillery in Arandas, Jalisco, Mexico. Photo: Erich Schlegel/Erich Schlegel/Corbis\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Through the years, the family held on to one of its small, old distilleries. About a decade ago, Javier's grandson decided to come back to Tequila and started making the drink in the old traditional way, using a stone crusher, taking a long time to age the spirit. He brought out his first brand, which he called Los Abuelos, or \"the grandparents,\" in Mexico. In the U.S., Los Abuelos is sold under the name Fortaleza, which means \"fortitude.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>'Agave Business Is A Casino Business'\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> It takes five to eight years for the blue agave, the only kind of agave that can be used to make official appellation tequila, to mature. Growing agave is risk-filled, and requires knowledge and maintenance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83865\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 290px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/agave-empire_custom-665afad1e3f220432d1f40f9b7ce77b68d1a5746.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/agave-empire_custom-665afad1e3f220432d1f40f9b7ce77b68d1a5746-290x184.jpg\" alt=\"Agave has been at the heart of Mexican culture for centuries. Its uses were endless: aguamiel, a fresh nectar beverage, pulgue (fermented nectar), syrup, vinegars, string, rope, shoes, textiles, nails, paper, thatch, tiles, fuel, sop, bandages and snakebite cures. Image: Courtesy of Robert English\" width=\"290\" height=\"184\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-83865\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Agave has been at the heart of Mexican culture for centuries. Its uses were endless: aguamiel, a fresh nectar beverage, pulgue (fermented nectar), syrup, vinegars, string, rope, shoes, textiles, nails, paper, thatch, tiles, fuel, sop, bandages and snakebite cures. Image: Courtesy of Robert English\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>So agave growers and tequila producers must be looking far ahead at all times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \"Agave business is a casino business,\" says \u003ca href=\"http://www.tequilainterchangeproject.org/members/board/\">David Suro\u003c/a>, president of the Tequila Interchange Project, a nonprofit organization and consumer advocacy group for agave distilled spirits.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the same way wine producers are always wrestling with climate, weather, bugs and soil conditions, the \u003cem>tequileros\u003c/em> and agave producers are working just as hard. But instead of one season of growth and then harvest, they have to tend their fields for five to eight years before the sugar levels are high enough for harvest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Suro produces a tequila, too, called Siembra Azul. \"It's kosher certified,\" he says. \"There's not a Mexican institution to certify organic. So the kosher certification is the closest [to prove how] very careful we make our tequila.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cstrong>Composting Tequila\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Mexican video journalist Rogelio Navarro says Guadalajara is the Silicon Valley of Mexico in many ways. \"I would compare the tequila industry to the electronic industry, which is so important to us here,\" Navarro says. That means tequila is likely to play a huge part in the future of Mexico's economy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Traditionally tequila was a Mexican family business passed from generation to generation. Now that is changing. \"The biggest tequila companies are not Mexican anymore; they are internationally owned,\" he says. \"Tequila produces a lot of jobs and a lot of money, and now they just the sent the first package of tequila to China, and they're expecting to sell millions of liters of tequila in China.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Navarro notes that tequila not only means alcohol — it also means culture. It's associated with folkloric dancing, with music, with film, with tourism.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> The Tequila Chamber of Commerce and the Tequila Regulation Council are now very focused on what is happening with tequila all over the world, says Navarro. And they make sure that tequila produced in tequila country is actually tequila because of the agave they are using and the amount in the final product. There have long been troubles with people both in and outside of Mexico producing something they label as tequila that is not true tequila, not 100 percent blue agave.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Navarro has been following some of the efforts to make tequila production more organic and sustainable, as it is an industry that produces a serious amount of waste.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_83879\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/pinas.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/06/pinas.jpg\" alt=\"Piñas are piled into the ovens at La Alteña Distillery in the highlands of Jalisco, before (left) and after being roasted, and before their juice has been fermented and distilled into tequila. Photo: Kitchen Sisters for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"425\" class=\"size-full wp-image-83879\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Piñas are piled into the ovens at La Alteña Distillery in the highlands of Jalisco, before (left) and after being roasted, and before their juice has been fermented and distilled into tequila. Photo: Kitchen Sisters for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"The cellulosic waste, or bagasse, is what is left once you cook the agave plant and chop it and put it through a mill. ... What do they do with all this organic trash?\" he says. \"They were trying to compost it, and you can use it back in the agave fields as well, but in the past it's been easier to just throw away. Now, there's a guy that decided, what are people in Brazil are doing with the cane? And he bought the machines and started compressing the bagasse and making bricks, and he started to sell them as charcoal for roasting and bricks for houses.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Carlos Camarena is a third-generation family master distiller and one of the most respected \u003cem>tequileros\u003c/em> in Mexico. Tequila, Arandas and Atotonilco are three of the major areas where agave thrives and exceptional tequila is made. We make the pilgrimage with him to his La Altena distillery in the highlands of Jalisco, where he makes the legendary Tequila Tapatio, Tequila Ocho and more.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Inside is a huge round pit made of stone, with a stone wheel on top of it. \"What we are looking at is called a \u003cem>tahona\u003c/em>,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the past, the wheel was turned by mules. The stone crushes the agave and squeezes out the juice. Three years ago, Carlos' father pulled out the mules and replaced them with a John Deere tractor to pull the wheel. Tequila Siete Leguas, about an hour away near Atotonilco, is one of the last distilleries to crush its agave with the huge stone wheel pulled by mules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Tequila For The Next Generation\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At La Altena, Camarena is thinking deeply about the environmental impact of making tequila. \"We're noticing the summers are getting hotter and hotter every year, and the winters are getting colder,\" he says. \"So much hot is making the plant grow faster, but not letting it get all the nutrients from the soil and develop the sugar content and the acidity and to be as healthy.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> And he notes that \u003cem>tequileros\u003c/em> face a particular difficulty because blue agave plants being used to produce these millions of gallons of tequila are clones from the same mother. This monoculture style of agriculture over time requires more and more pesticides and herbicides to carry on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> About eight years ago, Camarena also got interested in treating all of the residues at the distillery instead of just dumping them in the garbage. With all the organic materials it's producing, it started making an organic fertilizer that it put back on the agave fields. And the distillery started recycling all the water it uses instead of just throwing it away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Camarena is awaiting certification as a green industry because he is focused on controlling all aspects of the \"leftovers\" the distillery creates through the tequila-making process, to make certain it has no polluting effect, including reducing emissions into the air from its boilers and stills. He tells us, \"If I want to change the world, I need to start by changing yourself, and let's see if that attracts other people to do what they have to do in order to have a better planet for people who come after us.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Agave Goddess\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Carmen Villareal is one of the few women in Mexico to run a tequila company. It's called Tequila San Matias, and it's now 127 years old. Villareal tells us about Mayahuel, the pre-Columbian goddess of fertility and maternity who is a sort of patron saint of tequila and is often pictured with 200 breasts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Our agaves have babies,\" says Villareal. \"Normally one agave can have 10 or 12 babies, so it is about being productive.\" Villareal sees Mexico through the eyes of Mayaguel, the productivity and fertility of tequila working for the growth and wellness of the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Mexico is a country with great poverty,\" she says. \"Tequila is an important income for the country. For example, our distillery is located in a tiny town, and we are practically the only source of work in the area. The way I see the industry, we we can help bring wellness and opportunity to our country.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>More From The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The \u003ca href=\"http://www.kitchensisters.org/\">The Kitchen Sisters\u003c/a>, Davia Nelson and Nikki Silva, are Peabody Award-winning independent producers who create radio and multimedia stories for NPR and public broadcast. Their \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/series/91851784/hidden-kitchens-the-kitchen-sisters\">Hidden Kitchen\u003c/a> series travels the world, chronicling little-known kitchen rituals and traditions that explore how communities come together through food — from modern-day Sicily to medieval England, the Australian Outback to the desert oasis of California.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/83862/tequila-nation-mexico-reckons-with-its-complicated-spirit","authors":["byline_bayareabites_83862"],"categories":["bayareabites_13306","bayareabites_1244","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916"],"tags":["bayareabites_2561","bayareabites_9268","bayareabites_9006"],"featImg":"bayareabites_83865","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_82315":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_82315","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"82315","score":null,"sort":[1400540587000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"with-cartels-on-the-run-mexican-lime-farmers-keep-more-of-the-green","title":"With Cartels on the Run, Mexican Lime Farmers Keep More of the Green","publishDate":1400540587,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82316\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/mexico-limes-1_wide-262506e6f4a0845ef3f9d572fa98cf6205a63139.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/mexico-limes-1_wide-262506e6f4a0845ef3f9d572fa98cf6205a63139.jpg\" alt=\"Workers sort through key limes at a packaging house in Apatzingan, Michoacan. More than 90 percent of limes imported into the U.S. come from Mexico. Photo: Carrie Kahn/NPR\" width=\"1800\" height=\"1011\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82316\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Workers sort through key limes at a packaging house in Apatzingan, Michoacan. More than 90 percent of limes imported into the U.S. come from Mexico. Photo: Carrie Kahn/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/19/313020751/with-cartel-on-the-run-mexican-lime-farmers-keep-more-of-the-green\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2014/05/20140519_atc_with_cartel_on_the_run_mexican_lime_farmers_see_green.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2100701/carrie-kahn\" target=\"_blank\">Carrie Kahn\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/19/313020751/with-cartel-on-the-run-mexican-lime-farmers-keep-more-of-the-green\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/19/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the prices of a margarita or guacamole have been too high for you lately, blame it on a key ingredient of the Mexican treats — the lime. Prices for limes, imported almost exclusively from Mexico, hit record highs this year, and demand remains high. But now the price is dropping and farmers couldn't be happier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can see it firsthand at the outdoor wholesale lime market in Apatzingan, Michoacan. Dozens of buyers stand in the dirt parking lot waiting for beat-up pickup trucks to roll in. The men rush to the backs of the trucks, filled high with crates of limes. Here the round fruit is known as green gold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lime buyer Geraldo Fernandez scrambles up the back of the crates and peers over the top. \"The trucks barely stop and the limes are sold ... they're selling like hotcakes,\" he says in Spanish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Mexico's other lime-producing states were hit hard by bad weather and a fungal outbreak earlier this year, as we've \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/03/26/in-mexico-and-u-s-lime-lovers-feel-squeezed-by-high-prices\">reported\u003c/a>, the orchards in Michoacan have been flourishing, netting record profits for the state's farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But with every boom comes the bust. And prices are falling fast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Better weather and a bountiful spring crop in the state of Veracruz have supplies back to normal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fernandez thumbs through another box of limes. He tells the driver he'll give him 80 pesos — about six bucks for the whole 40-pound box. He says just a month or two ago he was paying these guys as much as $35 a box.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prices in the U.S. are dropping, too. Last week the U.S. Department of Agriculture said consumers paid on average \u003ca href=\"http://www.ams.usda.gov/mnreports/fvwretail.pdf\">30 cents\u003c/a> a lime, compared with 90 a few months ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michoacan farmers aren't complaining about the precipitous price drop, though; most are still enjoying their record profits. But the biggest boon to them is that for the first time in a decade, many say they are no longer at the mercy of Mexico's ruthless drug cartels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82317\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1599px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/mexico-limes-2-ddeabe6d077ec156356c533bf75d3f74e0811a68.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/mexico-limes-2-ddeabe6d077ec156356c533bf75d3f74e0811a68.jpg\" alt=\"Farmer Efrain Hernandez Vazquez's profits this year will allow him to purchase 30 more acres and expand his lime operation. Photo: Carrie Kahn/NPR\" width=\"1599\" height=\"1198\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82317\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Farmer Efrain Hernandez Vazquez's profits this year will allow him to purchase 30 more acres and expand his lime operation. Photo: Carrie Kahn/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For more than 10 years, every part of the lime business was controlled by one drug gang or another. The last few seasons have been controlled by the Knights Templar cartel, says buyer and farm manager Efrain Hernandez Vazquez.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You'd make the money and they would take it, they charged so-called taxes, quotas on everything,\" says Hernandez. The drug gang told farmers where and when they could sell their crops and — most important — at what price. He estimates he paid about $2,000 a week, or 10 percent of his sales, to the Knights Templar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But since a federal police crackdown in the state and the emergence of civilian militias, the cartel has been on the run. Several top leaders have been either killed or arrested, and \u003ca href=\"http://news.yahoo.com/mexico-ruling-party-official-arrested-suspicion-gang-links-220002640.html\">three mayors\u003c/a> and a former governor of Michoacan have been arrested on charges of colluding with organized crime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hernandez says now, it's just pure happiness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At his farm, about 20 minutes outside Apatzingan, a worker is plowing the fields. Hernandez says he just bought 30 more acres with his profits and will plant Persian limes here — the fat, seedless ones most favored by U.S. consumers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hernandez walks over to a line of lush lime trees teeming with Persian limes. He tells me to take in a deep breath and smell the sweetness. They are the best, he says, and jokes, \"and they smell like green dollars, don't they?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Thanks to a big spring crop in Veracruz and police crackdowns on drug cartels, high prices for Mexican limes are falling earthward, just in time for summer cocktails. Mexican farmers are celebrating.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1400540587,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":679},"headData":{"title":"With Cartels on the Run, Mexican Lime Farmers Keep More of the Green | KQED","description":"Thanks to a big spring crop in Veracruz and police crackdowns on drug cartels, high prices for Mexican limes are falling earthward, just in time for summer cocktails. Mexican farmers are celebrating.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"82315 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=82315","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/05/19/with-cartels-on-the-run-mexican-lime-farmers-keep-more-of-the-green/","disqusTitle":"With Cartels on the Run, Mexican Lime Farmers Keep More of the Green","nprByline":"Carrie Kahn","nprStoryId":"313020751","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=313020751&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/19/313020751/with-cartel-on-the-run-mexican-lime-farmers-keep-more-of-the-green?ft=3&f=313020751","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Mon, 19 May 2014 17:56:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Mon, 19 May 2014 16:16:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Mon, 19 May 2014 17:56:22 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2014/05/20140519_atc_with_cartel_on_the_run_mexican_lime_farmers_see_green.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=313020751","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1313996816-40ac1e.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&ft=3&f=313020751","path":"/bayareabites/82315/with-cartels-on-the-run-mexican-lime-farmers-keep-more-of-the-green","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2014/05/20140519_atc_with_cartel_on_the_run_mexican_lime_farmers_see_green.mp3","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82316\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1800px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/mexico-limes-1_wide-262506e6f4a0845ef3f9d572fa98cf6205a63139.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/mexico-limes-1_wide-262506e6f4a0845ef3f9d572fa98cf6205a63139.jpg\" alt=\"Workers sort through key limes at a packaging house in Apatzingan, Michoacan. More than 90 percent of limes imported into the U.S. come from Mexico. Photo: Carrie Kahn/NPR\" width=\"1800\" height=\"1011\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82316\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Workers sort through key limes at a packaging house in Apatzingan, Michoacan. More than 90 percent of limes imported into the U.S. come from Mexico. Photo: Carrie Kahn/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/19/313020751/with-cartel-on-the-run-mexican-lime-farmers-keep-more-of-the-green\">All Things Considered\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/atc/2014/05/20140519_atc_with_cartel_on_the_run_mexican_lime_farmers_see_green.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2100701/carrie-kahn\" target=\"_blank\">Carrie Kahn\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/05/19/313020751/with-cartel-on-the-run-mexican-lime-farmers-keep-more-of-the-green\" target=\"_blank\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (5/19/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the prices of a margarita or guacamole have been too high for you lately, blame it on a key ingredient of the Mexican treats — the lime. Prices for limes, imported almost exclusively from Mexico, hit record highs this year, and demand remains high. But now the price is dropping and farmers couldn't be happier.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You can see it firsthand at the outdoor wholesale lime market in Apatzingan, Michoacan. Dozens of buyers stand in the dirt parking lot waiting for beat-up pickup trucks to roll in. The men rush to the backs of the trucks, filled high with crates of limes. Here the round fruit is known as green gold.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lime buyer Geraldo Fernandez scrambles up the back of the crates and peers over the top. \"The trucks barely stop and the limes are sold ... they're selling like hotcakes,\" he says in Spanish.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While Mexico's other lime-producing states were hit hard by bad weather and a fungal outbreak earlier this year, as we've \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/03/26/in-mexico-and-u-s-lime-lovers-feel-squeezed-by-high-prices\">reported\u003c/a>, the orchards in Michoacan have been flourishing, netting record profits for the state's farmers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But with every boom comes the bust. And prices are falling fast.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Better weather and a bountiful spring crop in the state of Veracruz have supplies back to normal.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Fernandez thumbs through another box of limes. He tells the driver he'll give him 80 pesos — about six bucks for the whole 40-pound box. He says just a month or two ago he was paying these guys as much as $35 a box.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Prices in the U.S. are dropping, too. Last week the U.S. Department of Agriculture said consumers paid on average \u003ca href=\"http://www.ams.usda.gov/mnreports/fvwretail.pdf\">30 cents\u003c/a> a lime, compared with 90 a few months ago.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Michoacan farmers aren't complaining about the precipitous price drop, though; most are still enjoying their record profits. But the biggest boon to them is that for the first time in a decade, many say they are no longer at the mercy of Mexico's ruthless drug cartels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_82317\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1599px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/mexico-limes-2-ddeabe6d077ec156356c533bf75d3f74e0811a68.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/05/mexico-limes-2-ddeabe6d077ec156356c533bf75d3f74e0811a68.jpg\" alt=\"Farmer Efrain Hernandez Vazquez's profits this year will allow him to purchase 30 more acres and expand his lime operation. Photo: Carrie Kahn/NPR\" width=\"1599\" height=\"1198\" class=\"size-full wp-image-82317\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Farmer Efrain Hernandez Vazquez's profits this year will allow him to purchase 30 more acres and expand his lime operation. Photo: Carrie Kahn/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>For more than 10 years, every part of the lime business was controlled by one drug gang or another. The last few seasons have been controlled by the Knights Templar cartel, says buyer and farm manager Efrain Hernandez Vazquez.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"You'd make the money and they would take it, they charged so-called taxes, quotas on everything,\" says Hernandez. The drug gang told farmers where and when they could sell their crops and — most important — at what price. He estimates he paid about $2,000 a week, or 10 percent of his sales, to the Knights Templar.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But since a federal police crackdown in the state and the emergence of civilian militias, the cartel has been on the run. Several top leaders have been either killed or arrested, and \u003ca href=\"http://news.yahoo.com/mexico-ruling-party-official-arrested-suspicion-gang-links-220002640.html\">three mayors\u003c/a> and a former governor of Michoacan have been arrested on charges of colluding with organized crime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hernandez says now, it's just pure happiness.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At his farm, about 20 minutes outside Apatzingan, a worker is plowing the fields. Hernandez says he just bought 30 more acres with his profits and will plant Persian limes here — the fat, seedless ones most favored by U.S. consumers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Hernandez walks over to a line of lush lime trees teeming with Persian limes. He tells me to take in a deep breath and smell the sweetness. They are the best, he says, and jokes, \"and they smell like green dollars, don't they?\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/82315/with-cartels-on-the-run-mexican-lime-farmers-keep-more-of-the-green","authors":["byline_bayareabites_82315"],"categories":["bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_1874","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34"],"tags":["bayareabites_13394","bayareabites_12243","bayareabites_13198","bayareabites_2561","bayareabites_13395"],"featImg":"bayareabites_82316","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_79506":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_79506","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"79506","score":null,"sort":[1395854557000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"in-mexico-and-u-s-lime-lovers-feel-squeezed-by-high-prices","title":"In Mexico And U.S., Lime Lovers Feel Squeezed By High Prices","publishDate":1395854557,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79507\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1673px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/ap823905112805_wide-add3bdaadda52a755b5af36d6b34ae4a0eb39670.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/ap823905112805_wide-add3bdaadda52a755b5af36d6b34ae4a0eb39670.jpg\" alt=\"A worker unloads a truck full of Mexican limes at a citrus packing plant in La Ruana, in the state of Michoacan, Mexico. Photo: Dario Lopez-Mills/AP\" width=\"1673\" height=\"940\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79507\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A worker unloads a truck full of Mexican limes at a citrus packing plant in La Ruana, in the state of Michoacan, Mexico. Photo: Dario Lopez-Mills/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/03/26/294413761/in-mexico-and-u-s-lime-lovers-feel-squeezed-by-high-prices\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/03/20140326_me_in_mexico_and_us_lime_lovers_feel_squeezed_by_high_prices.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2100701/carrie-kahn\">Carrie Kahn\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/03/26/294413761/in-mexico-and-u-s-lime-lovers-feel-squeezed-by-high-prices\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/26/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Has the price of your margarita cocktail shot up? Guacamole more expensive? Blame it on limes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 98 percent of limes consumed in the U.S. come from Mexico. But our neighbors to the south are feeling seriously squeezed by a shortage of the beloved citrus fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At a Mexico City outdoor market, vendor Alberto Reyes Stanislao tries to entice passersby to buy his limes with sweet talk and coaxing. But with limes going for 50 pesos a kilo — about $1.75 a pound, or three times the normal price — his sales have plummeted 50 percent. And he says he's getting an earful from customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They say I'm selling green gold. One customer told me that instead of eating the limes, she was going to wear them as a necklace,\" says Reyes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the U.S., grocery stores are now charging an average of 53 cents for a single lime, compared to 21 cents per fruit at this time last year, according to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ams.usda.gov/mnreports/fvwretail.pdf\">latest data\u003c/a> from the U.S. Department of Agriculture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A combination of factors has affected Mexican production. Heavy rains late last year in the states of Michoacan, Guerrero and Veracruz hurt the crop. And in Colima, a big lime-producing state, a bacterium is infecting trees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With supply tight at home, exports across the border are getting more and more expensive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This year, we are in unchartered waters with limes, says Raul Millan of New Jersey-based \u003ca href=\"http://www.visionimportgroup.com/\">Vision Import Group\u003c/a>. \"I've never seen limes at these prices.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Millan says he can still recall a time when a 40-pound box of the so-called Mexican Persian variety went for as little as $4. This week, he paid 25 times that much.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm surprised that demand is still there, even at $100 a box,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With prices that high, Millan says organized crime thieves in Mexico are stealing truckloads of limes. He says his producers in Veracruz have had to hire armed security guards for the trip to the border.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Mexico, authorities say lime production should pick up in the coming months, as yields go up with the arrival of spring, and prices will hopefully fall back down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's good news to Ruben Jacobo, who's grilling up rib eye, \u003cem>carne asada\u003c/em> and chicken at his street taco stand. He says a taco without a squeeze of lime on it is just not a taco. And the high prices are cutting into his already small profit margin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Unfortunately,\" Jacobo tells me, \"it seems the more expensive something is, the more people want it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week, he caught a woman emptying his complimentary plate of lime wedges straight into her bag. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"It's enough to leave you crying in your margarita: Lime prices are so high these days that in Mexico, organized gangs have even started stealing the fruit. Prices are no better stateside.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1395854557,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":20,"wordCount":519},"headData":{"title":"In Mexico And U.S., Lime Lovers Feel Squeezed By High Prices | KQED","description":"It's enough to leave you crying in your margarita: Lime prices are so high these days that in Mexico, organized gangs have even started stealing the fruit. Prices are no better stateside.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"79506 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=79506","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/03/26/in-mexico-and-u-s-lime-lovers-feel-squeezed-by-high-prices/","disqusTitle":"In Mexico And U.S., Lime Lovers Feel Squeezed By High Prices","nprByline":"Carrie Kahn","nprStoryId":"294413761","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=294413761&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/03/26/294413761/in-mexico-and-u-s-lime-lovers-feel-squeezed-by-high-prices?ft=3&f=294413761","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 26 Mar 2014 09:00:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 26 Mar 2014 03:22:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 26 Mar 2014 09:00:44 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/03/20140326_me_in_mexico_and_us_lime_lovers_feel_squeezed_by_high_prices.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=291397809&ft=3&f=294413761","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1294639979-a825bf.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=291397809&ft=3&f=294413761","path":"/bayareabites/79506/in-mexico-and-u-s-lime-lovers-feel-squeezed-by-high-prices","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/03/20140326_me_in_mexico_and_us_lime_lovers_feel_squeezed_by_high_prices.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1053&aggIds=291397809&ft=3&f=294413761","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79507\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1673px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/ap823905112805_wide-add3bdaadda52a755b5af36d6b34ae4a0eb39670.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/ap823905112805_wide-add3bdaadda52a755b5af36d6b34ae4a0eb39670.jpg\" alt=\"A worker unloads a truck full of Mexican limes at a citrus packing plant in La Ruana, in the state of Michoacan, Mexico. Photo: Dario Lopez-Mills/AP\" width=\"1673\" height=\"940\" class=\"size-full wp-image-79507\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A worker unloads a truck full of Mexican limes at a citrus packing plant in La Ruana, in the state of Michoacan, Mexico. Photo: Dario Lopez-Mills/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/03/26/294413761/in-mexico-and-u-s-lime-lovers-feel-squeezed-by-high-prices\">Morning Edition\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2014/03/20140326_me_in_mexico_and_us_lime_lovers_feel_squeezed_by_high_prices.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/2100701/carrie-kahn\">Carrie Kahn\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/03/26/294413761/in-mexico-and-u-s-lime-lovers-feel-squeezed-by-high-prices\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/26/14)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Has the price of your margarita cocktail shot up? Guacamole more expensive? Blame it on limes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 98 percent of limes consumed in the U.S. come from Mexico. But our neighbors to the south are feeling seriously squeezed by a shortage of the beloved citrus fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At a Mexico City outdoor market, vendor Alberto Reyes Stanislao tries to entice passersby to buy his limes with sweet talk and coaxing. But with limes going for 50 pesos a kilo — about $1.75 a pound, or three times the normal price — his sales have plummeted 50 percent. And he says he's getting an earful from customers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They say I'm selling green gold. One customer told me that instead of eating the limes, she was going to wear them as a necklace,\" says Reyes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In the U.S., grocery stores are now charging an average of 53 cents for a single lime, compared to 21 cents per fruit at this time last year, according to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.ams.usda.gov/mnreports/fvwretail.pdf\">latest data\u003c/a> from the U.S. Department of Agriculture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A combination of factors has affected Mexican production. Heavy rains late last year in the states of Michoacan, Guerrero and Veracruz hurt the crop. And in Colima, a big lime-producing state, a bacterium is infecting trees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With supply tight at home, exports across the border are getting more and more expensive.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This year, we are in unchartered waters with limes, says Raul Millan of New Jersey-based \u003ca href=\"http://www.visionimportgroup.com/\">Vision Import Group\u003c/a>. \"I've never seen limes at these prices.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Millan says he can still recall a time when a 40-pound box of the so-called Mexican Persian variety went for as little as $4. This week, he paid 25 times that much.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I'm surprised that demand is still there, even at $100 a box,\" he says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With prices that high, Millan says organized crime thieves in Mexico are stealing truckloads of limes. He says his producers in Veracruz have had to hire armed security guards for the trip to the border.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Mexico, authorities say lime production should pick up in the coming months, as yields go up with the arrival of spring, and prices will hopefully fall back down.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That's good news to Ruben Jacobo, who's grilling up rib eye, \u003cem>carne asada\u003c/em> and chicken at his street taco stand. He says a taco without a squeeze of lime on it is just not a taco. And the high prices are cutting into his already small profit margin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Unfortunately,\" Jacobo tells me, \"it seems the more expensive something is, the more people want it.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Last week, he caught a woman emptying his complimentary plate of lime wedges straight into her bag. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/79506/in-mexico-and-u-s-lime-lovers-feel-squeezed-by-high-prices","authors":["byline_bayareabites_79506"],"categories":["bayareabites_1962","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34"],"tags":["bayareabites_11696","bayareabites_13198","bayareabites_2561","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_79511","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_55056":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_55056","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"55056","score":null,"sort":[1358988358000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"fla-tomato-growers-say-mexico-trade-deal-is-rotten","title":"Fla. Tomato Growers Say Mexico Trade Deal Is Rotten","publishDate":1358988358,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Listen to Morning Edition on NPR: \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/01/23/170038401/fla-tomato-growers-push-to-end-price-agreement\">Fla. Tomato Growers Say Mexico Trade Deal Is Rotten\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/01/20130123_me_06.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/4628641/ted-robbins\">Ted Robbins\u003c/a>, NPR Business News (1/23/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Half of all tomatoes eaten in the U.S. come from Mexico, and tomato growers in Florida aren't happy about that. In fact, they're willing to risk a trade war to reverse the trend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At JC Distributing In Nogales, Ariz., one misstep and you're likely to get knocked over by a pallet full of produce. Forklifts crisscross each other carrying peppers, squash and especially tomatoes from trucks backed into the warehouse loading dock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55067\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/tomatoes.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/tomatoes-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"Boxes of tomatoes are for sale in an open air market in Immokalee, Fla. Photo: J. Pat \" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-55067\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Boxes of tomatoes are for sale in an open air market in Immokalee, Fla. Photo: J. Pat Carter/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"This is a Mexican truck being unloaded,\" says JC President Jaime Chamberlain. \"He's just waiting for his paperwork to get back.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>JC is one of a number of produce distributors just north of the Mexican border. Chamberlain says his company alone handles more than 87 million pounds of tomatoes each year — tomatoes sold in stores across the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is a box of grape tomatoes, and this is from a grower of ours in Jalisco,\" Chamberlain says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For 16 years, the Mexican growers have agreed not to sell tomatoes below what's called a reference price. That was supposed to protect Florida tomato growers from cheap Mexican tomatoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Florida sales have dropped in half anyway, to as little as $250 million a year, while Mexican sales have tripled to more than $1.8 billion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reggie Brown, who heads the Florida Tomato Exchange, says Mexican growers have been dumping tomatoes — selling them for less than it costs to produce them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The Mexican industry has for significant periods dumped product into the U.S. market during the 16 years of the agreement,\" Brown says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So Florida growers are pushing the Obama administration to end the price agreement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What would happen if the suspension agreement went away is free trade would truly exist between Mexico and the U.S. in the tomato industry,\" Brown says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lance Jungmeyer, who heads the Fresh Produce Association of the Americas, which represents the Mexican tomato industry, says Mexico is not dumping tomatoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It would be impossible to sustain hundreds perhaps thousands of Mexican tomato companies for years on end selling below their cost. They wouldn't be able to do that,\" Jungmeyer says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the tomato agreement goes away, though, Florida would be free to file an anti-dumping case against Mexico. If that happens, the Commerce Department can impose punitive tariffs on Mexican tomatoes — making them much more expensive and giving Florida an edge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mexico could then put heavy tariffs on billions of dollars in products the U.S. sells there: pork, beef and corn. It would be a trade war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jungmeyer says what's really going on is that consumers just plain prefer Mexican tomatoes — tomatoes ripened on the vine instead of with ethylene gas, which he says Florida growers use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If your choice is a tomato that doesn't really taste like a tomato or a tomato that tastes like a tomato, you want the tomato that tastes like a tomato,\" Jungmeyer says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gary Hufbauer, a senior fellow with the Peterson Institute for International Economics, a Washington, D.C., think tank that supports international free trade, agrees. He says the Mexican tomato industry has innovated, and Florida growers are hanging on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Florida voters are important, and no administration wants to be seen as responsible for losing jobs there. Even if, as Hufbauer says, Florida's future isn't in tomatoes, it's a symbolic industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The mental image of the little house on the prairie has most of us captivated in Florida; the little house on the prairie is a tomato grower, a sugar grower or an orange grower — a small part of the economy, but a big part of the popular imagination,\" Hufbauer says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ending the tomato agreement would cost jobs in Mexico and the U.S., says distributor Jaime Chamberlain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Your packaging, your marketing, your advertising, your transportation is tremendous. I don't know what would happen to all these trucks on the American roads if you were to eliminate a specific commodity out of the Mexican agricultural deal,\" Chamberlain says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Negotiations are continuing, but last fall, the Commerce Department indicated it was siding with Florida. A number of big produce buyers, including Wal-Mart, are siding with Mexico. The trade agreement is set to expire at the end of this month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's at stake are higher prices and fewer tomato choices. Of course, you could grow your own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"For 16 years, Mexican growers have agreed not to sell tomatoes below what's called a reference price, meant to protect Florida growers from cheap Mexican tomatoes. But half of all tomatoes eaten in the U.S. come from Mexico, and Mexican growers say it's because their tomatoes taste better.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1358988569,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":29,"wordCount":796},"headData":{"title":"Fla. Tomato Growers Say Mexico Trade Deal Is Rotten | KQED","description":"For 16 years, Mexican growers have agreed not to sell tomatoes below what's called a reference price, meant to protect Florida growers from cheap Mexican tomatoes. But half of all tomatoes eaten in the U.S. come from Mexico, and Mexican growers say it's because their tomatoes taste better.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"55056 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=55056","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/01/23/fla-tomato-growers-say-mexico-trade-deal-is-rotten/","disqusTitle":"Fla. Tomato Growers Say Mexico Trade Deal Is Rotten","nprByline":"Ted Robbins","nprStoryId":"170038401","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=170038401&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/2013/01/23/170038401/fla-tomato-growers-push-to-end-price-agreement?ft=3&f=170038401","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 23 Jan 2013 11:01:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 23 Jan 2013 04:00:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 23 Jan 2013 11:57:19 -0500","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/01/20130123_me_06.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1006&ft=3&f=170038401","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1170044465-7b8124.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1006&ft=3&f=170038401","path":"/bayareabites/55056/fla-tomato-growers-say-mexico-trade-deal-is-rotten","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/01/20130123_me_06.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1006&ft=3&f=170038401","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Listen to Morning Edition on NPR: \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/01/23/170038401/fla-tomato-growers-push-to-end-price-agreement\">Fla. Tomato Growers Say Mexico Trade Deal Is Rotten\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/me/2013/01/20130123_me_06.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/4628641/ted-robbins\">Ted Robbins\u003c/a>, NPR Business News (1/23/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Half of all tomatoes eaten in the U.S. come from Mexico, and tomato growers in Florida aren't happy about that. In fact, they're willing to risk a trade war to reverse the trend.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At JC Distributing In Nogales, Ariz., one misstep and you're likely to get knocked over by a pallet full of produce. Forklifts crisscross each other carrying peppers, squash and especially tomatoes from trucks backed into the warehouse loading dock.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_55067\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/tomatoes.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/tomatoes-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"Boxes of tomatoes are for sale in an open air market in Immokalee, Fla. Photo: J. Pat \" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-55067\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Boxes of tomatoes are for sale in an open air market in Immokalee, Fla. Photo: J. Pat Carter/AP\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\"This is a Mexican truck being unloaded,\" says JC President Jaime Chamberlain. \"He's just waiting for his paperwork to get back.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>JC is one of a number of produce distributors just north of the Mexican border. Chamberlain says his company alone handles more than 87 million pounds of tomatoes each year — tomatoes sold in stores across the country.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"This is a box of grape tomatoes, and this is from a grower of ours in Jalisco,\" Chamberlain says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For 16 years, the Mexican growers have agreed not to sell tomatoes below what's called a reference price. That was supposed to protect Florida tomato growers from cheap Mexican tomatoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Florida sales have dropped in half anyway, to as little as $250 million a year, while Mexican sales have tripled to more than $1.8 billion.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reggie Brown, who heads the Florida Tomato Exchange, says Mexican growers have been dumping tomatoes — selling them for less than it costs to produce them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The Mexican industry has for significant periods dumped product into the U.S. market during the 16 years of the agreement,\" Brown says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So Florida growers are pushing the Obama administration to end the price agreement.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"What would happen if the suspension agreement went away is free trade would truly exist between Mexico and the U.S. in the tomato industry,\" Brown says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lance Jungmeyer, who heads the Fresh Produce Association of the Americas, which represents the Mexican tomato industry, says Mexico is not dumping tomatoes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"It would be impossible to sustain hundreds perhaps thousands of Mexican tomato companies for years on end selling below their cost. They wouldn't be able to do that,\" Jungmeyer says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If the tomato agreement goes away, though, Florida would be free to file an anti-dumping case against Mexico. If that happens, the Commerce Department can impose punitive tariffs on Mexican tomatoes — making them much more expensive and giving Florida an edge.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mexico could then put heavy tariffs on billions of dollars in products the U.S. sells there: pork, beef and corn. It would be a trade war.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jungmeyer says what's really going on is that consumers just plain prefer Mexican tomatoes — tomatoes ripened on the vine instead of with ethylene gas, which he says Florida growers use.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If your choice is a tomato that doesn't really taste like a tomato or a tomato that tastes like a tomato, you want the tomato that tastes like a tomato,\" Jungmeyer says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gary Hufbauer, a senior fellow with the Peterson Institute for International Economics, a Washington, D.C., think tank that supports international free trade, agrees. He says the Mexican tomato industry has innovated, and Florida growers are hanging on.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Florida voters are important, and no administration wants to be seen as responsible for losing jobs there. Even if, as Hufbauer says, Florida's future isn't in tomatoes, it's a symbolic industry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The mental image of the little house on the prairie has most of us captivated in Florida; the little house on the prairie is a tomato grower, a sugar grower or an orange grower — a small part of the economy, but a big part of the popular imagination,\" Hufbauer says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ending the tomato agreement would cost jobs in Mexico and the U.S., says distributor Jaime Chamberlain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Your packaging, your marketing, your advertising, your transportation is tremendous. I don't know what would happen to all these trucks on the American roads if you were to eliminate a specific commodity out of the Mexican agricultural deal,\" Chamberlain says.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Negotiations are continuing, but last fall, the Commerce Department indicated it was siding with Florida. A number of big produce buyers, including Wal-Mart, are siding with Mexico. The trade agreement is set to expire at the end of this month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's at stake are higher prices and fewer tomato choices. Of course, you could grow your own.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> \u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/55056/fla-tomato-growers-say-mexico-trade-deal-is-rotten","authors":["byline_bayareabites_55056"],"categories":["bayareabites_1874","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_34"],"tags":["bayareabites_9882","bayareabites_73","bayareabites_2561","bayareabites_10921","bayareabites_11084","bayareabites_453","bayareabites_1829"],"featImg":"bayareabites_55057","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_54890":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_54890","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"54890","score":null,"sort":[1358971250000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"mazatlan-throws-an-endless-seafood-fiesta","title":"Mazatlán Throws an Endless Seafood Fiesta ","publishDate":1358971250,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54900\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/victor-on-beach2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54900\" alt=\"Victor, the oyster man\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/victor-on-beach2.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Victor, the oyster man\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s early morning and I’m perched on a plastic stool near Mazatlán’s stunning seashore, squeezing lime juice on a plate of oysters that were awakened--rather rudely, I suppose--from their oyster beds only moments ago. Victor, the proprietor of this makeshift beachside oyster bar, squats on a rock, shucks the freshly caught oysters and serves them on paper plates with cut limes and bottles of hot sauce. He has worked these waters for the past 33 years with his brothers, uncles, nephews and cousins, as his father did for 52 years. I learn this through the interpreting skills of my friend Dianne, an American who has called Mazatlán home for the past five years. As we slurp our oysters, Victor tells us that since the emptied shells have larva on them, they return them to the ocean to regenerate a new harvest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54904\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/oyster-diver1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54904\" alt=\"oyster diver\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/oyster-diver1.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">oyster diver\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The divers, some of whom wear wet suits, take floating inner tubes fitted with nets out into the sea and armed with sharp tools, dive down to the oyster reefs to harvest the shellfish, while holding their breath. When their nets are full, they trudge back onto shore with 50 kilos of scratchy shells on their backs and fill large mesh bags with shellfish that will be sold wholesale to restaurants. Also benefiting from their catch are lucky customers like us who walk up to enjoy the freshest oysters in the world for less than 50 cents each.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54914\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/ceviche2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54914\" alt=\"ceviche with lime\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/ceviche2.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">ceviche with lime\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Later, during brunch at the restaurant of my hotel, the gorgeous \u003ca href=\"http://www.pueblobonito-mazatlan.com/\">El Pueblo Bonito\u003c/a>, we begin with mimosas and shot glasses of fresh shrimp ceviche. As soon as I place my purse on the floor, however, a pleasant server rushes over with what looks like a very short coat rack and indicates that this is the place my purse should go. Dianne, an intercultural consultant who has lived all over the world and is the founder of a training program called \u003ca href=\"http://www.culturaldetective.com/\">Cultural Detective\u003c/a>, knows there’s a cultural reason behind this action. “It’s bad luck, isn’t it?” she gently prompts the server, who confides, “Yes, if you put your purse on the floor, all the money will run out.” From then on, I am on the lookout for more \u003cem>percheros\u003c/em> and find most restaurants provide them in styles to match their décor (simple white wood, gleaming aluminum, wrought iron or bright turquoise curlicues).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54907\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/pelican1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54907\" alt=\"pelicans wait for lunch\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/pelican1.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">pelicans wait for lunch\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fortified, we're off to visit some fish markets. Dianne and her husband Greg take me to the simply named Mercado de Mariscos, a basic strip of concrete stands near the docks that the fishermen share with about a hundred pelicans. While the freshly caught fish are gutted and cleaned, pelicans clamor for the scraps they know are coming. The fish laid out here are mostly bought by local residents (not a tourist in sight).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54908\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/fish-market1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54908\" alt=\"Mercado de Mariscos\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/fish-market1.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mercado de Mariscos\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then we head downtown to the large indoor market called \u003cem>Pino Suárez.\u003c/em> On the way, I can’t resist some neon-hued coconut candy from a street vendor’s cart, which we all munch on while perusing the market's many stands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54909\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/coconut-candy.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54909\" alt=\"coconut candy\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/coconut-candy.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">coconut candy\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Underneath gaily dancing piñatas, shops sell all manner of spices, seeds, nuts, fresh cheeses, kitchen goods and dishes, more coconut candies and cones of \u003cem>piloncillo\u003c/em> (Mexican brown sugar). We get tastes of the huge orange slabs of smoked marlin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54910\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/smoked-marlin.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54910\" alt=\"smoked marlin\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/smoked-marlin.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">smoked marlin\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The next day, we take a non-fish related excursion to \u003ca href=\"http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g1104120-d2643850-Reviews-Piedras_Las_Labradas_Petroglyphs-Sinaloa_Pacific_Coast.html\">Las Labradas\u003c/a>, a UNESCO world heritage site and clamber over boulders to see the ancient petroglyphs carved on volcanic rocks that line the shore 30 miles north of Maztalan. No one has yet deciphered the meanings of the 600 water-worn, thousand-year old carvings, but like the petroglyph fields I visited \u003ca href=\"http://www.letsgo-hawaii.com/big-island-hawaii-petroglyphs/\">in Hawaii\u003c/a>, they exude a special energy. Dianne tells me that the spring equinox is celebrated here by traditional \u003ca href=\"http://vidamaz.com/2012/03/17/deer-dances-in-las-labradas-on-the-spring-equinox/\">dances from a group of Indians\u003c/a> who wear deer headdresses (\u003cem>Mazatlán\u003c/em> is a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nahuatl\">Nahuatl\u003c/a> word for \"place of the deer\").\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54918\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/petroglyphs1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54918\" alt=\"petroglyphs\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/petroglyphs1.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">petroglyphs\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A group of us have lunch at \u003ca href=\"http://www.restaurantlosarcos.com/en/\">Los Arcos\u003c/a> -- a cheery seafood restaurant where shrimp is queen. The meal starts with appetizer platters heaped with fresh shrimp, octopus, chunky scallops, and ceviche with lime. (I notice that lemons are nowhere to be found in Mazatlán but tiny, tangy limes are a tasty substitute.) We all order variations on the shrimp theme: deep fried \"seahorses\" stuffed with cream cheese and breaded with coconut, shrimp in mango sauce, tamarind sauce, spicy red or green sauces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54919\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/shrimp-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54919\" alt=\"shrimp and more shrimp\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/shrimp-Collage.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">shrimp and more shrimp\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After touring some artists' galleries and a nice siesta, we meet for dinner at \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/lacostamarinera\">La Costa Marinera\u003c/a>, a festive spot where Dianne and Greg held their wedding rehearsal dinner many years ago. Their specialty is a \u003cem>mariscada\u003c/em> seafood platter served atop a large, pig-shaped clay pot that keeps the food warm. We enjoy grilled shrimp, oysters diabla, lobster, dorado filets, frogs legs, accompanied by a singing waiter and large pink margaritas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54921\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/shrimp-ladies-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54921\" alt=\"shrimp ladies of Mazatlan\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/shrimp-ladies-Collage.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">shrimp ladies of Mazatlan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On my last morning in Mazatlán, Dianne and Greg take me to the visit the \"Shrimp Ladies\" -- \u003cem>Changueras\u003c/em> -- whose colorful umbrellas line a street called \u003cem>Aquiles Serdán\u003c/em>. Tubs and tubs of brown shrimp, blue shrimp, white shrimp, fresh water, deep-ocean and farmed shrimp are kept cool with large chunks of floating ice. Maria del la Paz has been working on this street for 30 years and arrives daily at 3am to buy her shrimp from the fishermen; then sells her wares to housewives and restaurant owners until 7 or 8pm. As her experienced fingers peel shrimp at lightning speed, she tells us that her father also sold shrimp and she hopes her daughters will soon get a coveted spot at this shrimp shopping center.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dianne mentions that ordering a “shrimp tamale” will get you a masa-encased shrimp with head, legs and shell, which you are expected to eat. She has learned to order a tamale “gringa style” to have it peeled first. Greg points out the establishment across the street where you take your freshly purchased shrimp and have them prepared to order, so we pick out a few dozen shrimp and enter the diner that is still empty this early in the morning. (Greg says at night it’s a guy-hangout filled with boisterous men with beer). After ordering one plate of garlic shrimp and another \u003cem>a la diabla\u003c/em>, the welcoming aroma of garlic quickly fills the dining room as we see flames leap around the pan on the range. I toast my friends and thank them for showing me a little of their Mazatlán--a seafood-lover’s paradise, thanks to more than 20 miles of beaches, the ocean’s generous bounty and the labors of all the unsung oystermen and shrimp ladies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(\u003cem>Full disclosure: The writer was a guest in Mazatlán courtesy of the Sinaloa Tourism Office\u003c/em>)\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Anna Mindess discovered the world's freshest oysters and a street lined with shrimp sellers in Mazatlán.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1359480260,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":14,"wordCount":1200},"headData":{"title":"Mazatlán Throws an Endless Seafood Fiesta | KQED","description":"Anna Mindess discovered the world's freshest oysters and a street lined with shrimp sellers in Mazatlán.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"54890 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=54890","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/01/23/mazatlan-throws-an-endless-seafood-fiesta/","disqusTitle":"Mazatlán Throws an Endless Seafood Fiesta ","path":"/bayareabites/54890/mazatlan-throws-an-endless-seafood-fiesta","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54900\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/victor-on-beach2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54900\" alt=\"Victor, the oyster man\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/victor-on-beach2.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Victor, the oyster man\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>It’s early morning and I’m perched on a plastic stool near Mazatlán’s stunning seashore, squeezing lime juice on a plate of oysters that were awakened--rather rudely, I suppose--from their oyster beds only moments ago. Victor, the proprietor of this makeshift beachside oyster bar, squats on a rock, shucks the freshly caught oysters and serves them on paper plates with cut limes and bottles of hot sauce. He has worked these waters for the past 33 years with his brothers, uncles, nephews and cousins, as his father did for 52 years. I learn this through the interpreting skills of my friend Dianne, an American who has called Mazatlán home for the past five years. As we slurp our oysters, Victor tells us that since the emptied shells have larva on them, they return them to the ocean to regenerate a new harvest.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54904\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/oyster-diver1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54904\" alt=\"oyster diver\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/oyster-diver1.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">oyster diver\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The divers, some of whom wear wet suits, take floating inner tubes fitted with nets out into the sea and armed with sharp tools, dive down to the oyster reefs to harvest the shellfish, while holding their breath. When their nets are full, they trudge back onto shore with 50 kilos of scratchy shells on their backs and fill large mesh bags with shellfish that will be sold wholesale to restaurants. Also benefiting from their catch are lucky customers like us who walk up to enjoy the freshest oysters in the world for less than 50 cents each.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54914\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/ceviche2.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54914\" alt=\"ceviche with lime\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/ceviche2.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">ceviche with lime\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Later, during brunch at the restaurant of my hotel, the gorgeous \u003ca href=\"http://www.pueblobonito-mazatlan.com/\">El Pueblo Bonito\u003c/a>, we begin with mimosas and shot glasses of fresh shrimp ceviche. As soon as I place my purse on the floor, however, a pleasant server rushes over with what looks like a very short coat rack and indicates that this is the place my purse should go. Dianne, an intercultural consultant who has lived all over the world and is the founder of a training program called \u003ca href=\"http://www.culturaldetective.com/\">Cultural Detective\u003c/a>, knows there’s a cultural reason behind this action. “It’s bad luck, isn’t it?” she gently prompts the server, who confides, “Yes, if you put your purse on the floor, all the money will run out.” From then on, I am on the lookout for more \u003cem>percheros\u003c/em> and find most restaurants provide them in styles to match their décor (simple white wood, gleaming aluminum, wrought iron or bright turquoise curlicues).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54907\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/pelican1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54907\" alt=\"pelicans wait for lunch\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/pelican1.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">pelicans wait for lunch\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Fortified, we're off to visit some fish markets. Dianne and her husband Greg take me to the simply named Mercado de Mariscos, a basic strip of concrete stands near the docks that the fishermen share with about a hundred pelicans. While the freshly caught fish are gutted and cleaned, pelicans clamor for the scraps they know are coming. The fish laid out here are mostly bought by local residents (not a tourist in sight).\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54908\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/fish-market1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54908\" alt=\"Mercado de Mariscos\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/fish-market1.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mercado de Mariscos\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Then we head downtown to the large indoor market called \u003cem>Pino Suárez.\u003c/em> On the way, I can’t resist some neon-hued coconut candy from a street vendor’s cart, which we all munch on while perusing the market's many stands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54909\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/coconut-candy.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54909\" alt=\"coconut candy\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/coconut-candy.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">coconut candy\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Underneath gaily dancing piñatas, shops sell all manner of spices, seeds, nuts, fresh cheeses, kitchen goods and dishes, more coconut candies and cones of \u003cem>piloncillo\u003c/em> (Mexican brown sugar). We get tastes of the huge orange slabs of smoked marlin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54910\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/smoked-marlin.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54910\" alt=\"smoked marlin\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/smoked-marlin.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">smoked marlin\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>The next day, we take a non-fish related excursion to \u003ca href=\"http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g1104120-d2643850-Reviews-Piedras_Las_Labradas_Petroglyphs-Sinaloa_Pacific_Coast.html\">Las Labradas\u003c/a>, a UNESCO world heritage site and clamber over boulders to see the ancient petroglyphs carved on volcanic rocks that line the shore 30 miles north of Maztalan. No one has yet deciphered the meanings of the 600 water-worn, thousand-year old carvings, but like the petroglyph fields I visited \u003ca href=\"http://www.letsgo-hawaii.com/big-island-hawaii-petroglyphs/\">in Hawaii\u003c/a>, they exude a special energy. Dianne tells me that the spring equinox is celebrated here by traditional \u003ca href=\"http://vidamaz.com/2012/03/17/deer-dances-in-las-labradas-on-the-spring-equinox/\">dances from a group of Indians\u003c/a> who wear deer headdresses (\u003cem>Mazatlán\u003c/em> is a \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nahuatl\">Nahuatl\u003c/a> word for \"place of the deer\").\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54918\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/petroglyphs1.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54918\" alt=\"petroglyphs\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/petroglyphs1.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">petroglyphs\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A group of us have lunch at \u003ca href=\"http://www.restaurantlosarcos.com/en/\">Los Arcos\u003c/a> -- a cheery seafood restaurant where shrimp is queen. The meal starts with appetizer platters heaped with fresh shrimp, octopus, chunky scallops, and ceviche with lime. (I notice that lemons are nowhere to be found in Mazatlán but tiny, tangy limes are a tasty substitute.) We all order variations on the shrimp theme: deep fried \"seahorses\" stuffed with cream cheese and breaded with coconut, shrimp in mango sauce, tamarind sauce, spicy red or green sauces.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54919\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/shrimp-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54919\" alt=\"shrimp and more shrimp\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/shrimp-Collage.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">shrimp and more shrimp\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>After touring some artists' galleries and a nice siesta, we meet for dinner at \u003ca href=\"https://www.facebook.com/lacostamarinera\">La Costa Marinera\u003c/a>, a festive spot where Dianne and Greg held their wedding rehearsal dinner many years ago. Their specialty is a \u003cem>mariscada\u003c/em> seafood platter served atop a large, pig-shaped clay pot that keeps the food warm. We enjoy grilled shrimp, oysters diabla, lobster, dorado filets, frogs legs, accompanied by a singing waiter and large pink margaritas.\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_54921\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\" style=\"max-width: 560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/shrimp-ladies-Collage.jpg\">\u003cimg class=\"size-full wp-image-54921\" alt=\"shrimp ladies of Mazatlan\" src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/01/shrimp-ladies-Collage.jpg\" width=\"560\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">shrimp ladies of Mazatlan\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>On my last morning in Mazatlán, Dianne and Greg take me to the visit the \"Shrimp Ladies\" -- \u003cem>Changueras\u003c/em> -- whose colorful umbrellas line a street called \u003cem>Aquiles Serdán\u003c/em>. Tubs and tubs of brown shrimp, blue shrimp, white shrimp, fresh water, deep-ocean and farmed shrimp are kept cool with large chunks of floating ice. Maria del la Paz has been working on this street for 30 years and arrives daily at 3am to buy her shrimp from the fishermen; then sells her wares to housewives and restaurant owners until 7 or 8pm. As her experienced fingers peel shrimp at lightning speed, she tells us that her father also sold shrimp and she hopes her daughters will soon get a coveted spot at this shrimp shopping center.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dianne mentions that ordering a “shrimp tamale” will get you a masa-encased shrimp with head, legs and shell, which you are expected to eat. She has learned to order a tamale “gringa style” to have it peeled first. Greg points out the establishment across the street where you take your freshly purchased shrimp and have them prepared to order, so we pick out a few dozen shrimp and enter the diner that is still empty this early in the morning. (Greg says at night it’s a guy-hangout filled with boisterous men with beer). After ordering one plate of garlic shrimp and another \u003cem>a la diabla\u003c/em>, the welcoming aroma of garlic quickly fills the dining room as we see flames leap around the pan on the range. I toast my friends and thank them for showing me a little of their Mazatlán--a seafood-lover’s paradise, thanks to more than 20 miles of beaches, the ocean’s generous bounty and the labors of all the unsung oystermen and shrimp ladies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>(\u003cem>Full disclosure: The writer was a guest in Mazatlán courtesy of the Sinaloa Tourism Office\u003c/em>)\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/54890/mazatlan-throws-an-endless-seafood-fiesta","authors":["5283"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_181","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_11079","bayareabites_9269","bayareabites_11068","bayareabites_2561","bayareabites_1021","bayareabites_323","bayareabites_864"],"featImg":"bayareabites_55038","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. 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Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/possible-5gxfizEbKOJ-pbF5ASgxrs_.1400x1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/ATC_1400.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/powerpress/1440_0018_AmericanSuburb_iTunesTile_01.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. 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Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/CodeSwitchLifeKit_StationGraphics_300x300EmailGraphic.png","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. 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