(Cabbage) Heads Will Roll: How To Make A Food Network 'From Scratch'
Should Sustainability be a Factor in Restaurant Food?
Ten Top Food News Stories of 2010: Part Two
Mario Batali's Eataly: A Visual Tour
Tomatoes: An Addiction (Early Girl Tomato Sauce)
Secrets from a Chef: Café des Amis's Gordon Drysdale
Dude Food
Foreign Food Affairs
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Sarah has called the Bay Area home for the past two decades and remembers how delighted she was when a modest farmers' market sprouted in downtown San Francisco years ago. As a freelance writer Sarah has covered local food people, places, politics, culture, and news for the \u003ca href=\"http://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Latina-entrepreneurs-share-wealth-knowledge-2693764.php\">San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.mercurynews.com/food-wine/ci_21619882/good-eggs-pie-subscriptions-and-seafood-deliveries\">San Jose Mercury News\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://alumni.berkeley.edu/news/california-magazine/fall-2011-good-fight/justice%E2%80%94and-good-grub%E2%80%94-all\">California\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.modernluxury.com/san-francisco\">San Francisco\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.diablomag.com/Diablo-Magazine/November-2012/Artisan-Eats/\">Diablo\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblecommunities.com/eastbay/fall-2012/school-lunch-20.htm\">Edible East Bay\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.ediblecommunities.com/marinandwinecountry/summer-2012-issue-14/getting-wild-at-a-west-marin-supper-club.htm\">Edible Marin & Wine Country\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/\">Berkeleyside\u003c/a>. 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"You have this all wrong," she told executives, "I'm beer in a bottle; you guys are champagne." Photo: Scott Gries/Getty Images\" width=\"1120\" height=\"629\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72167\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">According to journalist Allen Salkin, Emeril Lagasse initially opposed bringing Rachael Ray, pictured here in 2007, onto the Food Network – and, at first, Ray agreed with him. \"You have this all wrong,\" she told executives, \"I'm beer in a bottle; you guys are champagne.\" Photo: Scott Gries/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/10/13/231527991/-cabbage-heads-will-roll-how-to-make-a-food-network-from-scratch\">Weekend Edition Sunday\u003c/a> [audio src=\"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesun/2013/10/20131013_wesun_18.mp3\"] \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/10/13/231527991/-cabbage-heads-will-roll-how-to-make-a-food-network-from-scratch\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (10/13/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mario Batali, Guy Fieri and Rachael Ray are just a few of the stars the Food Network helped create. But what the network gave, it could also take away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/223172349/from-scratch-inside-the-food-network\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/food-network-from-scratch.jpg\" alt=\"From Scratch: Inside the Food Network by Allen Salkin\" width=\"200\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-72166\">\u003c/a>In \u003cem>From Scratch\u003c/em>, author Allen Salkin takes an unsparing look at the network's progression from struggling cable startup to global powerhouse, and the people — Emeril Lagasse, Paula Deen — who rose and fell along the way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salkin tells NPR's Rachel Martin\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>that while the network was intended for cooks, it wasn't run by them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They were not trying to spread the gospel of kale and of shallots,\" he says. \"These were guys trying to make a media play and make some money.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview Highlights\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On what cooking shows were like before the Food Network\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was this thing relegated to weekend mornings on PBS with Julia Child, obviously, pioneering the format in the '60s with \u003cem>The French Chef\u003c/em>,\u003cem> \u003c/em>and then in the '80s with \u003cem>The Frugal Gourmet\u003c/em> and Martin Yan. And it really was sort of a ghetto of television. Nobody believed that anyone would ever want to watch this on primetime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>... Julia is a great figure and really showed the way to having some personality on food TV, but it was not being exploited. It fell to these cable TV pioneers to take a shot at it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the early, low-budget set for Mario Batali's show, \u003cem>Molto Mario\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He was such a great host at first, telling these erudite stories about how he learned about a certain kind of ravioli in a certain village in Umbria, but there was no oven. So he would pretend to slide that tray of whatever he was making under the counter and stamp his foot on the floor to simulate an oven sound — which is, you know, great television.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how Emeril Lagasse helped jump-start the network\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emeril was actually a guy from Fall River, Mass., and he had become famous because he sort of revolutionized and modernized Creole cuisine down in New Orleans. And he was first making appearances on the Nashville Network, and these producers down there basically pitched Emeril as a potential host.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>... It was with \u003cem>Emeril Live\u003c/em> eventually, his third show on the network, that he was really the first breakthrough star. He took the original Julia Child dump-and-stir, if you will, format and married it with this \u003cem>Tonight Show\u003c/em> pizzazz of a monologue and a live band, and that was really the thing that started the Food Network on its way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the near-death of Emeril's \"Bam!\" \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72165\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/food-network-allen-salkin.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/food-network-allen-salkin.jpg\" alt=\"Allen Salkin is an investigative journalist who's hosted a video series for AOL's Slashfood blog and written for <em>The New York Times</em>. Photo: Earl Wilson\" width=\"200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72165\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Allen Salkin is an investigative journalist who's hosted a video series for AOL's Slashfood blog and written for \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>. Photo: Earl Wilson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A character on [\u003cem>The Larry Sanders Show\u003c/em>] used to say \"Hey now!\" all the time, and [Creative Director] Jonathan [Lynn] thought that Emeril's shtick with the \"Bam!\" and \"Hey now!\" and \"Let's kick it up a notch!\" was derivative, and so told him to kill the \"Bam!\" ... Can you imagine? It's like telling the Fonz not to say, \"Eyyy.\" [Emeril won] because Emeril, in his restaurants in New Orleans, was already getting a little bit of feedback with people shouting \"Bam!\" back at him. He knew he was working.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On Emeril's departure\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emeril had been the biggest star on the network for 10 years, and the network had started seeing him as this aging quarterback who could no longer take them to the Super Bowl — especially starting in the early 2000s, with \u003cem>Top Chef\u003c/em> competing against them on Bravo, and others. And the Food Network felt like his demographic — you know, it's always the same: His viewers are getting older, his ratings are going down a little, his program was more expensive. Ultimately, they treated him pretty shoddily. ... It really was the final, kind of, end of an era of this great star — who made the network, who was a chef, who was grounded in restaurant culture — being shown the door by a bunch of television executives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On where the network stands today\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you look at it, their last breakthrough, household-name star was Guy Fieri, and he won, in 2006, [\u003cem>The\u003c/em>] \u003cem>Next Food Network Star\u003c/em>. So that's been seven years. ... In about 2002, 2003 this network was just generating household names: \u003cem>Barefoot Contessa\u003c/em>, Giada De Lorentiis, Paula Deen. And they are no longer doing that. In fact, they no longer even have their own internal production; they're not making their own cooking shows anymore. The network, at its heart, used to literally smell like apple pie and baking chickens, and now they're doing what every other network is doing: They're sending executives to have meetings with production companies in L.A., trying to find the next \u003cem>Duck Dynasty\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On Paula Deen\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Paula Deen problem started before this N-word controversy, which came from the racial and sexual discrimination lawsuit against her and a deposition she gave. The problems she had started way back in 2001. Her agent had negotiated a deal where the network was not participating in any of her businesses. In other words, they have the \u003cem>American Idol\u003c/em> model: You win \u003cem>American Idol\u003c/em>, you've got to give part of your record contract back to the people who make \u003cem>American Idol\u003c/em>. And that's what Food Network wants. They believe that their brand is so strong that they should take a cut of your cookbook sales, of your spatulas and everything else. They didn't get that from Paula so they were not really in business with her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Secondly, the diabetes drug deal that she had made about a year and a half earlier, where the Queen of Butter and Sugar had all of a sudden admitted she had diabetes exactly at the time she was taking millions of dollars to endorse a diabetes drug, rather than before that. And none of her programming had been changed. The Food Network hired a crisis consultant company and was calling reporters on background and telling us, \"We had nothing to do with this, this is outrageous,\" and really distancing the network from this. So she already had a few strikes against her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, these stand-and-stir cooking shows that Paula was doing were losing viewers. And this, ultimately, was a network that is trying to expand channels into South Africa, Singapore, all over Asia. And so when the N-word controversy happened, she already had two strikes against her and her contract was up at exactly the wrong time. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The Food Network was intended for cooks, but it wasn't run by them. In a new tell-all book, Allen Salkin takes an unsparing look at the channel's progression from struggling cable startup to global powerhouse, and the people who rose and fell along the way.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1381768578,"stats":{"hasAudio":true,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":27,"wordCount":1199},"headData":{"title":"(Cabbage) Heads Will Roll: How To Make A Food Network 'From Scratch' | KQED","description":"The Food Network was intended for cooks, but it wasn't run by them. In a new tell-all book, Allen Salkin takes an unsparing look at the channel's progression from struggling cable startup to global powerhouse, and the people who rose and fell along the way.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"72155 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=72155","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/10/14/cabbage-heads-will-roll-how-to-make-a-food-network-from-scratch/","disqusTitle":"(Cabbage) Heads Will Roll: How To Make A Food Network 'From Scratch'","nprByline":"NPR Staff","nprStoryId":"231527991","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=231527991&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/10/13/231527991/-cabbage-heads-will-roll-how-to-make-a-food-network-from-scratch?ft=3&f=231527991","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Sun, 13 Oct 2013 08:47:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Sun, 13 Oct 2013 08:00:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Sun, 13 Oct 2013 08:47:09 -0400","nprAudio":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesun/2013/10/20131013_wesun_18.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1033&ft=3&f=231527991","nprAudioM3u":"http://api.npr.org/m3u/1233230255-f89d0d.m3u?orgId=1&topicId=1033&ft=3&f=231527991","path":"/bayareabites/72155/cabbage-heads-will-roll-how-to-make-a-food-network-from-scratch","audioUrl":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesun/2013/10/20131013_wesun_18.mp3?orgId=1&topicId=1033&ft=3&f=231527991","audioDuration":null,"audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72167\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/rachael-ray.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/rachael-ray.jpg\" alt=\"According to journalist Allen Salkin, Emeril Lagasse initially opposed bringing Rachael Ray, pictured here in 2007, onto the Food Network – and, at first, Ray agreed with him. "You have this all wrong," she told executives, "I'm beer in a bottle; you guys are champagne." Photo: Scott Gries/Getty Images\" width=\"1120\" height=\"629\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72167\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">According to journalist Allen Salkin, Emeril Lagasse initially opposed bringing Rachael Ray, pictured here in 2007, onto the Food Network – and, at first, Ray agreed with him. \"You have this all wrong,\" she told executives, \"I'm beer in a bottle; you guys are champagne.\" Photo: Scott Gries/Getty Images\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Listen to the Story\u003c/strong> on \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/10/13/231527991/-cabbage-heads-will-roll-how-to-make-a-food-network-from-scratch\">Weekend Edition Sunday\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"audio","attributes":{"named":{"src":"http://pd.npr.org/anon.npr-mp3/npr/wesun/2013/10/20131013_wesun_18.mp3","label":""},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Post by NPR Staff, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/10/13/231527991/-cabbage-heads-will-roll-how-to-make-a-food-network-from-scratch\">The Salt at NPR Food\u003c/a> (10/13/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mario Batali, Guy Fieri and Rachael Ray are just a few of the stars the Food Network helped create. But what the network gave, it could also take away.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/books/titles/223172349/from-scratch-inside-the-food-network\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/food-network-from-scratch.jpg\" alt=\"From Scratch: Inside the Food Network by Allen Salkin\" width=\"200\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-72166\">\u003c/a>In \u003cem>From Scratch\u003c/em>, author Allen Salkin takes an unsparing look at the network's progression from struggling cable startup to global powerhouse, and the people — Emeril Lagasse, Paula Deen — who rose and fell along the way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salkin tells NPR's Rachel Martin\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>that while the network was intended for cooks, it wasn't run by them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"They were not trying to spread the gospel of kale and of shallots,\" he says. \"These were guys trying to make a media play and make some money.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>Interview Highlights\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On what cooking shows were like before the Food Network\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It was this thing relegated to weekend mornings on PBS with Julia Child, obviously, pioneering the format in the '60s with \u003cem>The French Chef\u003c/em>,\u003cem> \u003c/em>and then in the '80s with \u003cem>The Frugal Gourmet\u003c/em> and Martin Yan. And it really was sort of a ghetto of television. Nobody believed that anyone would ever want to watch this on primetime.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>... Julia is a great figure and really showed the way to having some personality on food TV, but it was not being exploited. It fell to these cable TV pioneers to take a shot at it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the early, low-budget set for Mario Batali's show, \u003cem>Molto Mario\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>He was such a great host at first, telling these erudite stories about how he learned about a certain kind of ravioli in a certain village in Umbria, but there was no oven. So he would pretend to slide that tray of whatever he was making under the counter and stamp his foot on the floor to simulate an oven sound — which is, you know, great television.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On how Emeril Lagasse helped jump-start the network\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emeril was actually a guy from Fall River, Mass., and he had become famous because he sort of revolutionized and modernized Creole cuisine down in New Orleans. And he was first making appearances on the Nashville Network, and these producers down there basically pitched Emeril as a potential host.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>... It was with \u003cem>Emeril Live\u003c/em> eventually, his third show on the network, that he was really the first breakthrough star. He took the original Julia Child dump-and-stir, if you will, format and married it with this \u003cem>Tonight Show\u003c/em> pizzazz of a monologue and a live band, and that was really the thing that started the Food Network on its way.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On the near-death of Emeril's \"Bam!\" \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_72165\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 200px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/food-network-allen-salkin.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/10/food-network-allen-salkin.jpg\" alt=\"Allen Salkin is an investigative journalist who's hosted a video series for AOL's Slashfood blog and written for <em>The New York Times</em>. Photo: Earl Wilson\" width=\"200\" class=\"size-full wp-image-72165\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Allen Salkin is an investigative journalist who's hosted a video series for AOL's Slashfood blog and written for \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>. Photo: Earl Wilson\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>A character on [\u003cem>The Larry Sanders Show\u003c/em>] used to say \"Hey now!\" all the time, and [Creative Director] Jonathan [Lynn] thought that Emeril's shtick with the \"Bam!\" and \"Hey now!\" and \"Let's kick it up a notch!\" was derivative, and so told him to kill the \"Bam!\" ... Can you imagine? It's like telling the Fonz not to say, \"Eyyy.\" [Emeril won] because Emeril, in his restaurants in New Orleans, was already getting a little bit of feedback with people shouting \"Bam!\" back at him. He knew he was working.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On Emeril's departure\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Emeril had been the biggest star on the network for 10 years, and the network had started seeing him as this aging quarterback who could no longer take them to the Super Bowl — especially starting in the early 2000s, with \u003cem>Top Chef\u003c/em> competing against them on Bravo, and others. And the Food Network felt like his demographic — you know, it's always the same: His viewers are getting older, his ratings are going down a little, his program was more expensive. Ultimately, they treated him pretty shoddily. ... It really was the final, kind of, end of an era of this great star — who made the network, who was a chef, who was grounded in restaurant culture — being shown the door by a bunch of television executives.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On where the network stands today\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you look at it, their last breakthrough, household-name star was Guy Fieri, and he won, in 2006, [\u003cem>The\u003c/em>] \u003cem>Next Food Network Star\u003c/em>. So that's been seven years. ... In about 2002, 2003 this network was just generating household names: \u003cem>Barefoot Contessa\u003c/em>, Giada De Lorentiis, Paula Deen. And they are no longer doing that. In fact, they no longer even have their own internal production; they're not making their own cooking shows anymore. The network, at its heart, used to literally smell like apple pie and baking chickens, and now they're doing what every other network is doing: They're sending executives to have meetings with production companies in L.A., trying to find the next \u003cem>Duck Dynasty\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>On Paula Deen\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The Paula Deen problem started before this N-word controversy, which came from the racial and sexual discrimination lawsuit against her and a deposition she gave. The problems she had started way back in 2001. Her agent had negotiated a deal where the network was not participating in any of her businesses. In other words, they have the \u003cem>American Idol\u003c/em> model: You win \u003cem>American Idol\u003c/em>, you've got to give part of your record contract back to the people who make \u003cem>American Idol\u003c/em>. And that's what Food Network wants. They believe that their brand is so strong that they should take a cut of your cookbook sales, of your spatulas and everything else. They didn't get that from Paula so they were not really in business with her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Secondly, the diabetes drug deal that she had made about a year and a half earlier, where the Queen of Butter and Sugar had all of a sudden admitted she had diabetes exactly at the time she was taking millions of dollars to endorse a diabetes drug, rather than before that. And none of her programming had been changed. The Food Network hired a crisis consultant company and was calling reporters on background and telling us, \"We had nothing to do with this, this is outrageous,\" and really distancing the network from this. So she already had a few strikes against her.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the same time, these stand-and-stir cooking shows that Paula was doing were losing viewers. And this, ultimately, was a network that is trying to expand channels into South Africa, Singapore, all over Asia. And so when the N-word controversy happened, she already had two strikes against her and her contract was up at exactly the wrong time. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/72155/cabbage-heads-will-roll-how-to-make-a-food-network-from-scratch","authors":["byline_bayareabites_72155"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_2090","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_34","bayareabites_1593"],"tags":["bayareabites_12562","bayareabites_12563","bayareabites_8692","bayareabites_2288","bayareabites_956","bayareabites_10369","bayareabites_211","bayareabites_10921"],"featImg":"bayareabites_72164","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_43903":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_43903","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"43903","score":null,"sort":[1338400821000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"should-sustainability-be-a-factor-in-restaurant-food","title":"Should Sustainability be a Factor in Restaurant Food?","publishDate":1338400821,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/elizabeth-meltz.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/elizabeth-meltz.jpg\" alt=\"Elizabeth Meltz\" title=\"Elizabeth Meltz\" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43986\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Elizabeth Meltz, the director of sustainability for Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich and fellow chefs, checks out the source of sustainable salmon in Norway. Photo: Cheryl Forberg\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchlaundry.com/\">The French Laundry\u003c/a>'s \u003ca href=\"http://tkrg.org/\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a> created quite the media maelstrom when he told the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/16/dining/for-them-a-great-meal-tops-good-intentions.html?_r=1\">\u003cem>New York Times' Julia Moskin\u003c/em>\u003c/a> that he didn't think concerns around sustainable food matters were the responsibility of top chefs like himself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flavor and creativity rule, Keller implied, debates around \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/SeafoodWatch/web/sfw_factsheet.aspx?fid=60\">bluefin tuna\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.usatoday.com/news/nation/story/2012-05-22/foie-gras-california-ban-humane/55143812/1\">foie gras\u003c/a> be damned. And in the same story, his buddy Andoni Luis Aduriz -- the Spanish chef behind the celebrated \u003ca href=\"http://www.mugaritz.com/\">Mugaritz\u003c/a> -- agreed, calling Keller brave for speaking honestly on a simmering culinary controversy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://grist.org/food/chefs-disregard-for-environment-leaves-a-bad-taste/\">Not everyone concurs with Keller's point of view\u003c/a>, of course. Some might see a celebrity chef such as himself as a key player in the fight to protect our food supply and planet. Others, though, prefer their restaurateurs to excel in the kitchen and on the plate and leave saving the earth to do-gooder government agencies, scientific researchers, and nonprofit activists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A columnist in last week's \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nypost.com/p/news/opinion/opedcolumnists/sustain_this_mario_v3D15YXykKYbYGW0KsVd4L\">New York Post\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, even lambasted sustainable food advocates in the fine dining biz for hypocrisy -- singling out players like \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariobatali.com/\">Mario Batali\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://joebastianich.com/\">Joe Bastianich\u003c/a> -- in an industry better known for excess and exploitation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given this ruckus among the restaurant elite, it seems a good time to check in with the director of food safety and sustainability for the \u003ca href=\"http://bandbhg.com/\">Batali & Bastianich Hospitality Group\u003c/a>, a national restaurant empire that includes Babbo, Eataly, and Del Posto in New York City, and Osteria Mozza and Pizzeria Mozza in Los Angeles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/clams-pasta400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/clams-pasta400.jpg\" alt=\"pasta and clams\" title=\"pasta and clams\" width=\"400\" height=\"370\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44016\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sustainable seafood remains a hot-button issue for consumers and chefs. Photo: Kelly Campbell\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elizabeth Meltz, who talked about the green dining experience at \u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com/tedx/events/744\">Tedx Manhattan's \"Changing The Way We Eat\"\u003c/a> last year, attended the recent Sustainable Foods Institute, a media conference that accompanies the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/vi/vi_events/cooking/\">Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Cooking for Solutions\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She shared her thoughts on the \u003cem>Post\u003c/em>'s pronouncements, serving sustainable meals, and the compostable container conundrum with Bay Area Bites this week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What exactly does the director of food safety & sustainability for Batali & Bastianich do? What does a typical day look like?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If only there ever was a \"typical day.\" Some days are totally dominated by food safety and others by sustainability, and sometimes entire weeks can focus on one or the other. For example, last month was focused heavily on finishing up Pizzeria Mozza Orange County's LEED Silver Certification, but come August and September our New York City restaurants start getting inspected again by the health department so I will be running around dealing with that. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Did you create your own position and how did you get into this line of work? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did create my own job, and I highly recommend it. When it first opened in 2006, I was a line cook at Del Posto, Mario, Joe and Lidia's four star Italian restaurant in New York's Meat Packing District. I worked for the amazingly progressive genius executive chef Mark Ladner. We clicked and I transitioned out of the kitchen and into the office- creating a hodgepodge position of HR, executive assistant, green guru and food safety expert. The food safety and sustainability elements emerged as ones that were replicable and applicable to all of our restaurants (currently 18 in the US). Oh, and I'm a department of ONE.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you work with chefs, managers, front of the house, kitchen staff, wait crew -- or all of the above?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of the above. Both food safety and sustainability only work if there is buy in from the entire staff. Chefs and managers help me implement the initial changes or trainings we might be doing or working on, but the commitment and enthusiasm from the staff -- including wait staff and dishwashers, is what carries the change. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Does your experience as a line cook help in your current job?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having a kitchen background is a huge advantage in my current position -- because I've been there, I don't make absurd suggestions that I know won't work, and chefs usually appreciate that. I went to culinary school because I loved to cook but I swore I would never work in a kitchen outside of the required three month externship. Four years later I was still working in some of New York City's and Italy's best kitchens. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/meat400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/meat400.jpg\" alt=\" meats\" title=\" meats\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43994\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Where meat comes from -- and how it was raised -- is a top concern for many diners. Photo: Kelly Campbell\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chefs have reputations for strong opinions about what goes down in -- and comes out of -- their kitchens. How do you navigate that?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We are a chef-driven restaurant group so when it comes to sustainable food purchasing I make suggestions instead of issuing edicts. Luckily for me I work with a talented group of eco-minded chefs who are capable of balancing their commitment to the environment with making food that tastes good. As far as the food safety requirements and some of the non-food related green stuff, they know Mario and Joe wholeheartedly believe in it, so they are on board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What kinds of things do you address on the food safety front: Is it all about food poisoning, sourcing reviews, and hygiene practices?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We comply fully with all local and state health department guidelines. My job is to keep up with these codes, keep the chefs and managers up to date, and then inspect, train, and reinforce. I track outbreaks and recalls and keep them abreast of these as well. We do food safety and food allergen training for front-of-house staff. We take these things seriously. Each restaurant is capable of dealing with the rare food poisoning concern, but if there ever is an issue that needs an extra hand, I deal with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What about the sustainability side of your job?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's like vapor, it can expand endlessly, from testing a new electrolyzed water technology to investigating a hydroponic garden technology, to partnering with the New York Botanical Garden for Mario's edible garden beds. Each of our restaurants is a certified green restaurant (or is in the process of being certified), and maintaining that in and of itself can be a full-time job. You name it, it comes under my umbrella: Whether it's visiting our compost facility to make sure our waste is going where it should be going or screening the movie \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://endoftheline.com/\">The End of the Line\u003c/a>\u003c/em> to our staff so they know what is happening to our oceans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Consider: Fois gras, bluefin tuna, and factory-farmed meat. How do you handle such sustainability concerns? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As an almost all Italian restaurant group I don't have to deal with foie gras. Bluefin tuna is the only thing we actually banned our chefs from purchasing altogether (now that I just gave that whole spiel about how I never tell them what to do). I have since had some second thoughts about that as the fishermen who are going about procuring bluefin the correct way deserve support. Lastly, not a fan of industrially-raised meat. I cannot say we do not purchase any at all, but we purchase a great deal of our meat from \u003ca href=\"http://www.heritagefoodsusa.com/\">Heritage Foods USA\u003c/a>, and were one of the very first restaurant groups to do so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What do you love about your job and what's challenging?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's not to love? I love everything about it. To-go containers are challenging -- don't get me started. Each municipality accepts different items, the chasing arrows and the numbers on the bottom of the containers are totally misleading, compostable containers are only compostable in a compost facility and most cities won't pick up compost anyway, so what are you going to do with it? It makes me so mad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What kind of skill set or personality do you need for a gig like yours?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The food safety part definitely requires that you tap into your inner nerd. I also think balance is really important, and understanding that sustainability isn't sexy all the time -- it's not all about solar panels. Sometimes it's about a boring faucet aerator.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/mario-batali.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/mario-batali.jpg\" alt=\"Mario Batali\" title=\"Mario Batali\" width=\"349\" height=\"262\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43990\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mario Batali. Photo: Melanie Dunea \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Would you care to respond to the recent Batali-Bastianich bashing in the \u003cem>New York Post\u003c/em>?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd like to clarify some points. \u003ca href=\"http://www.meatlessmonday.com/\">Meatless Monday\u003c/a> is not simply about adding vegetarian options to the menu (though that is the physical manifestation of it.) Meatless Monday is a message of moderation, reminding the world that the same chef who was famously photographed with sausage links around his neck was also photographed with kohlrabi on his head in \u003cem>TIME\u003c/em> magazine. Going meatless once a week can reduce a person's risk for chronic preventable conditions like cardiovascular disease, diabetes and obesity. It can also help reduce an individual's carbon footprint and save resources like fresh water and fossil fuels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The simple answer to Chef Keller’s question: “Is it really my responsibility to worry about carbon footprint?” is, YES. It is everyone's job to worry about sustainability. If he needs a more selfish motivation: he should worry because if he doesn't choose wisely ten years from now he won’t have any fish left with which to create his art.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/WjWDm80O21A\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The head of sustainability and food safety for the Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich restaurant empire tells Sarah Henry what her job entails -- and offers a rebuttal to critics who sniff at whether the culinary world has a role to play in sustainable food matters.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1338400280,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":true,"hasChartOrMap":true,"iframeSrcs":["http://www.youtube.com/embed/WjWDm80O21A"],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":37,"wordCount":1558},"headData":{"title":"Should Sustainability be a Factor in Restaurant Food? | KQED","description":"The head of sustainability and food safety for the Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich restaurant empire tells Sarah Henry what her job entails -- and offers a rebuttal to critics who sniff at whether the culinary world has a role to play in sustainable food matters.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"43903 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=43903","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2012/05/30/should-sustainability-be-a-factor-in-restaurant-food/","disqusTitle":"Should Sustainability be a Factor in Restaurant Food?","path":"/bayareabites/43903/should-sustainability-be-a-factor-in-restaurant-food","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/elizabeth-meltz.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/elizabeth-meltz.jpg\" alt=\"Elizabeth Meltz\" title=\"Elizabeth Meltz\" width=\"560\" height=\"418\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43986\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Elizabeth Meltz, the director of sustainability for Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich and fellow chefs, checks out the source of sustainable salmon in Norway. Photo: Cheryl Forberg\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchlaundry.com/\">The French Laundry\u003c/a>'s \u003ca href=\"http://tkrg.org/\">Thomas Keller\u003c/a> created quite the media maelstrom when he told the \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/16/dining/for-them-a-great-meal-tops-good-intentions.html?_r=1\">\u003cem>New York Times' Julia Moskin\u003c/em>\u003c/a> that he didn't think concerns around sustainable food matters were the responsibility of top chefs like himself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flavor and creativity rule, Keller implied, debates around \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/SeafoodWatch/web/sfw_factsheet.aspx?fid=60\">bluefin tuna\u003c/a> or \u003ca href=\"http://www.usatoday.com/news/nation/story/2012-05-22/foie-gras-california-ban-humane/55143812/1\">foie gras\u003c/a> be damned. And in the same story, his buddy Andoni Luis Aduriz -- the Spanish chef behind the celebrated \u003ca href=\"http://www.mugaritz.com/\">Mugaritz\u003c/a> -- agreed, calling Keller brave for speaking honestly on a simmering culinary controversy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://grist.org/food/chefs-disregard-for-environment-leaves-a-bad-taste/\">Not everyone concurs with Keller's point of view\u003c/a>, of course. Some might see a celebrity chef such as himself as a key player in the fight to protect our food supply and planet. Others, though, prefer their restaurateurs to excel in the kitchen and on the plate and leave saving the earth to do-gooder government agencies, scientific researchers, and nonprofit activists.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A columnist in last week's \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.nypost.com/p/news/opinion/opedcolumnists/sustain_this_mario_v3D15YXykKYbYGW0KsVd4L\">New York Post\u003c/a>\u003c/em>, even lambasted sustainable food advocates in the fine dining biz for hypocrisy -- singling out players like \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariobatali.com/\">Mario Batali\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://joebastianich.com/\">Joe Bastianich\u003c/a> -- in an industry better known for excess and exploitation.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Given this ruckus among the restaurant elite, it seems a good time to check in with the director of food safety and sustainability for the \u003ca href=\"http://bandbhg.com/\">Batali & Bastianich Hospitality Group\u003c/a>, a national restaurant empire that includes Babbo, Eataly, and Del Posto in New York City, and Osteria Mozza and Pizzeria Mozza in Los Angeles. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/clams-pasta400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/clams-pasta400.jpg\" alt=\"pasta and clams\" title=\"pasta and clams\" width=\"400\" height=\"370\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-44016\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sustainable seafood remains a hot-button issue for consumers and chefs. Photo: Kelly Campbell\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Elizabeth Meltz, who talked about the green dining experience at \u003ca href=\"http://www.ted.com/tedx/events/744\">Tedx Manhattan's \"Changing The Way We Eat\"\u003c/a> last year, attended the recent Sustainable Foods Institute, a media conference that accompanies the \u003ca href=\"http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/vi/vi_events/cooking/\">Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Cooking for Solutions\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>She shared her thoughts on the \u003cem>Post\u003c/em>'s pronouncements, serving sustainable meals, and the compostable container conundrum with Bay Area Bites this week.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What exactly does the director of food safety & sustainability for Batali & Bastianich do? What does a typical day look like?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If only there ever was a \"typical day.\" Some days are totally dominated by food safety and others by sustainability, and sometimes entire weeks can focus on one or the other. For example, last month was focused heavily on finishing up Pizzeria Mozza Orange County's LEED Silver Certification, but come August and September our New York City restaurants start getting inspected again by the health department so I will be running around dealing with that. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Did you create your own position and how did you get into this line of work? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I did create my own job, and I highly recommend it. When it first opened in 2006, I was a line cook at Del Posto, Mario, Joe and Lidia's four star Italian restaurant in New York's Meat Packing District. I worked for the amazingly progressive genius executive chef Mark Ladner. We clicked and I transitioned out of the kitchen and into the office- creating a hodgepodge position of HR, executive assistant, green guru and food safety expert. The food safety and sustainability elements emerged as ones that were replicable and applicable to all of our restaurants (currently 18 in the US). Oh, and I'm a department of ONE.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Do you work with chefs, managers, front of the house, kitchen staff, wait crew -- or all of the above?\u003c/strong> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>All of the above. Both food safety and sustainability only work if there is buy in from the entire staff. Chefs and managers help me implement the initial changes or trainings we might be doing or working on, but the commitment and enthusiasm from the staff -- including wait staff and dishwashers, is what carries the change. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Does your experience as a line cook help in your current job?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Having a kitchen background is a huge advantage in my current position -- because I've been there, I don't make absurd suggestions that I know won't work, and chefs usually appreciate that. I went to culinary school because I loved to cook but I swore I would never work in a kitchen outside of the required three month externship. Four years later I was still working in some of New York City's and Italy's best kitchens. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/meat400.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/meat400.jpg\" alt=\" meats\" title=\" meats\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43994\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Where meat comes from -- and how it was raised -- is a top concern for many diners. Photo: Kelly Campbell\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chefs have reputations for strong opinions about what goes down in -- and comes out of -- their kitchens. How do you navigate that?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We are a chef-driven restaurant group so when it comes to sustainable food purchasing I make suggestions instead of issuing edicts. Luckily for me I work with a talented group of eco-minded chefs who are capable of balancing their commitment to the environment with making food that tastes good. As far as the food safety requirements and some of the non-food related green stuff, they know Mario and Joe wholeheartedly believe in it, so they are on board.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What kinds of things do you address on the food safety front: Is it all about food poisoning, sourcing reviews, and hygiene practices?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>We comply fully with all local and state health department guidelines. My job is to keep up with these codes, keep the chefs and managers up to date, and then inspect, train, and reinforce. I track outbreaks and recalls and keep them abreast of these as well. We do food safety and food allergen training for front-of-house staff. We take these things seriously. Each restaurant is capable of dealing with the rare food poisoning concern, but if there ever is an issue that needs an extra hand, I deal with it.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What about the sustainability side of your job?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It's like vapor, it can expand endlessly, from testing a new electrolyzed water technology to investigating a hydroponic garden technology, to partnering with the New York Botanical Garden for Mario's edible garden beds. Each of our restaurants is a certified green restaurant (or is in the process of being certified), and maintaining that in and of itself can be a full-time job. You name it, it comes under my umbrella: Whether it's visiting our compost facility to make sure our waste is going where it should be going or screening the movie \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://endoftheline.com/\">The End of the Line\u003c/a>\u003c/em> to our staff so they know what is happening to our oceans.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Consider: Fois gras, bluefin tuna, and factory-farmed meat. How do you handle such sustainability concerns? \u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As an almost all Italian restaurant group I don't have to deal with foie gras. Bluefin tuna is the only thing we actually banned our chefs from purchasing altogether (now that I just gave that whole spiel about how I never tell them what to do). I have since had some second thoughts about that as the fishermen who are going about procuring bluefin the correct way deserve support. Lastly, not a fan of industrially-raised meat. I cannot say we do not purchase any at all, but we purchase a great deal of our meat from \u003ca href=\"http://www.heritagefoodsusa.com/\">Heritage Foods USA\u003c/a>, and were one of the very first restaurant groups to do so.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What do you love about your job and what's challenging?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's not to love? I love everything about it. To-go containers are challenging -- don't get me started. Each municipality accepts different items, the chasing arrows and the numbers on the bottom of the containers are totally misleading, compostable containers are only compostable in a compost facility and most cities won't pick up compost anyway, so what are you going to do with it? It makes me so mad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What kind of skill set or personality do you need for a gig like yours?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The food safety part definitely requires that you tap into your inner nerd. I also think balance is really important, and understanding that sustainability isn't sexy all the time -- it's not all about solar panels. Sometimes it's about a boring faucet aerator.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/mario-batali.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2012/05/mario-batali.jpg\" alt=\"Mario Batali\" title=\"Mario Batali\" width=\"349\" height=\"262\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-43990\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mario Batali. Photo: Melanie Dunea \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Would you care to respond to the recent Batali-Bastianich bashing in the \u003cem>New York Post\u003c/em>?\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I'd like to clarify some points. \u003ca href=\"http://www.meatlessmonday.com/\">Meatless Monday\u003c/a> is not simply about adding vegetarian options to the menu (though that is the physical manifestation of it.) Meatless Monday is a message of moderation, reminding the world that the same chef who was famously photographed with sausage links around his neck was also photographed with kohlrabi on his head in \u003cem>TIME\u003c/em> magazine. Going meatless once a week can reduce a person's risk for chronic preventable conditions like cardiovascular disease, diabetes and obesity. It can also help reduce an individual's carbon footprint and save resources like fresh water and fossil fuels.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The simple answer to Chef Keller’s question: “Is it really my responsibility to worry about carbon footprint?” is, YES. It is everyone's job to worry about sustainability. If he needs a more selfish motivation: he should worry because if he doesn't choose wisely ten years from now he won’t have any fish left with which to create his art.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ciframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"http://www.youtube.com/embed/WjWDm80O21A\" frameborder=\"0\">\u003c/iframe>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/43903/should-sustainability-be-a-factor-in-restaurant-food","authors":["5125"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_2035","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_60"],"tags":["bayareabites_10490","bayareabites_956","bayareabites_14742","bayareabites_10492","bayareabites_10491","bayareabites_3787"],"featImg":"bayareabites_43986","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_20645":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_20645","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"20645","score":null,"sort":[1293984028000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"ten-top-food-news-stories-of-2010-part-two","title":"Ten Top Food News Stories of 2010: Part Two","publishDate":1293984028,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cem>Yesterday on BAB we \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/01/ten-top-food-stories-of-2010part-one/\">highlighted the year's food news\u003c/a> in food safety, D.I.Y. food, food politics, school food, and street food.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The top ten for 2010 continues:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_20825\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.phatbeetsproduce.org/about/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/the-beet-crew300.jpg\" alt=\"Phat Beets Produce is a food justice collective in Oakland - the Beet Crew. Photo by Zachary Matthews\" title=\"Phat Beets Produce is a food justice collective in Oakland - the Beet Crew. Photo by Zachary Matthews\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" class=\"size-full wp-image-20825\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Phat Beets Produce is a food justice collective in Oakland - the Beet Crew. Photo by Zachary Matthews\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>6. Food Security\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Late in the year in a cover story on class \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.newsweek.com/2010/11/22/what-food-says-about-class-in-america.html\">Newsweek\u003c/a>\u003c/em> explored the growing gap between the haves and have nots on the food front. \"The Dinner Divide\" noted that we are a nation where \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gourmet_Ghetto\">Gourmet Ghettos\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Food_desert\">food deserts\u003c/a> co-exist, often in close proximity in places like the Bay Area. The sad truth is that while many of us indulge our \"passion\" for local, organic chow, an increasingly larger group of Americans simply don't have access to enough healthy food to eat. Meanwhile, another European is attempting to help Americans in need feed themselves, namely Spanish native and James Beard Award-winning chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.josemadeinspain.com/bio.htm\">Jose Andres\u003c/a>, who heads up the nonprofit \u003ca href=\"http://dccentralkitchen.org/\">DC Central Kitchen\u003c/a>, which offers professional culinary training for formerly homeless, addicted, or imprisoned adults.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Local angle:\u003c/em> Actor Dan Hoyle skewered, among other things, hipster San Franciscans obsession with pristine produce with a politically-correct pedigree in his solo show at The Marsh \u003ca href=\"http://www.themarsh.org/dan_hoyle_real_americans.html\">The Real Americans\u003c/a>. Meanwhile, \u003ca href=\"http://phatbeetsproduce.org/\">Phat Beets Produce\u003c/a>, a volunteer-run collective, launched a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2005/09/14/community_supported-agriculture/\">Community Supported Agriculture\u003c/a> (CSA) box, nicknamed the \"Beet Box,\" in Oakland, to help under-supported small farmers and get produce to people who don't live near a farmers' market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_20822\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/12/07/mario-batalis-eataly-a-visual-tour/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/eataly300.jpg\" alt=\"Eataly in NYC. Photo by Megan Gordon\" title=\"Eataly in NYC. Photo by Megan Gordon\" width=\"300\" height=\"212\" class=\"size-full wp-image-20822\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eataly in NYC. Photo by Megan Gordon\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>7. New York Food\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lest this list be accused of being too parochial, let's turn our attention to food news out of New York City this year. There was lots, much of it of a legislative nature. Depending on your perspective, Mayor Michael Bloomberg is either a crusader for the people's health or a publicly-funded no-fun-nik: The city took \u003ca href=\"http://cityroom.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/01/11/city-unveils-plan-to-trim-food-industrys-use-of-salt/\">a stand on sodium\u003c/a>, introduced \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2010/07/28/nyregion/28inspect.html\">letter grades to evaluate restaurant cleanliness\u003c/a>, tried to \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=130407221\">prevent food stamps recipients from using benefits to sip soda\u003c/a>, a \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2010/10/08/banning-soda-for-food-stamps-raises-tough-questions/\">controversial move\u003c/a> (even among anti-hunger and public health advocates) and \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.villagevoice.com/runninscared/2010/11/four_loko_banne.php\">outlawed alcoholic energy drink Four Loko\u003c/a>. Furthermore, a \u003ca href=\"http://health.usnews.com/health-news/blogs/on-fitness/2010/03/22/calorie-counts-on-restaurant-menus-as-part-of-health-reform.html\">calorie count initiative in restaurants\u003c/a> begun in the Big Apple went national on menus across the country this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was fun stuff too: Hello \u003ca href=\"http://www.nypost.com/p/lifestyle/food/welcome_to_eataly_G5QHOIVyNtzG44tyFb5GVM\">Eataly\u003c/a>, a high-end food emporium boasting all things Italian, launched late summer by the city's reigning food Mafia, covered in a photographic homage recently on Bay Area Bites by \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/12/07/mario-batalis-eataly-a-visual-tour/\">Megan Gordon\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Local angle:\u003c/em> San Franciscans welcomed Manhattan transplant \u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/2010/08/anthony_mangieri_aiming_to_ope.html\">Anthony Mangieri\u003c/a> and his much-lauded \u003ca href=\"http://www.unapizza.com/sf/\">Una Pizza Napoletana\u003c/a> to town.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_20813\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/11/10/jonathan-safran-foer-video-interview-and-reading/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/jsf-eating-animals300.jpg\" alt=\"Jonathan Safran Foer at KQED holding his book, Eating Animals. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Jonathan Safran Foer at KQED holding his book, Eating Animals. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"300\" height=\"325\" class=\"size-full wp-image-20813\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jonathan Safran Foer at KQED holding his book, Eating Animals. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>8. Animal Food\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meat mattered this year. The \u003ca href=\"http://lettuceeatkale.com/2010/a-culinary-confession/\">culinary conversation\u003c/a> among carnivores, omnivores, vegetarians, and vegans continued as people pondered whether they could \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/11/10/jonathan-safran-foer-video-interview-and-reading/\">morally eat sustainably, humanely-raised animals\u003c/a> and wrestled with \u003ca href=\"http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2010/08/18/meaning_of_meat_eating\">conflicted or confused feelings\u003c/a> about carnal consumption. Now more than ever, how much and what kind of meat we eat reflects our ethics, environmental values, economic status, as well as class, culture, and convenience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said, \u003ca href=\"http://www.salon.com/food/feature/2010/03/11/rock_star_butcher_parties\">butchers made a comeback\u003c/a>, hosting \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/05/23/the-butcher-the-chef-and-the-goat/\">cleaving parties\u003c/a> from coast to coast. Meanwhile, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.meatlessmonday.com/\">Meatless Monday\u003c/a> campaign, which asks folks to forgo meat once a week for health and the environment, garnered the endorsement of celebrity chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/chris-elam/mario-batali-meatless-mon_b_557589.html\">Mario Batali\u003c/a>, long-known for serving plates laden with animal protein.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And in \u003ca href=\"http://www.culinate.com/books/book_excerpts/the_butcher_and_the_vegetarian\">books\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.salon.com/food/feature/2010/08/24/vegetarian_lover_foie_gras_open2010\">online\u003c/a> vegetarian gals chronicled their carnal adventures as they discovered the joys of the flesh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, just as the year drew to a close, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://nymag.com/restaurants/features/69369/\">New York Magazine\u003c/a>\u003c/em> announced that vegetables are the new meat, despite \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2010/09/25/health/policy/25vegetables.html\">significant evidence to the contrary\u003c/a>. Make of that what you will.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Local angle:\u003c/em> A queen of vegetarian cuisine, East Bay resident \u003ca href=\"http://www.molliekatzen.com\">Mollie Katzen\u003c/a>, came out with a cookbook that included meat dishes, a decision she found herself explaining in \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2010/03/18/the-radical-necessity-of-cooking-mollie-katzen-vegetablist\">every interview\u003c/a> about \u003cem>Get Cooking\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While across the bridge the butcher's shop in Bernal Heights \u003ca href=\"http://avedanos.com\">Avedano's Holly Park Market\u003c/a>, run by a gaggle of self-taught gals, typifies the new-style yet old-fashioned meat market, offering cleaving classes using traditional tools and selling only local, sustainable meats. And the \u003ca href=\"http://www.meatlessmonday.com/oakland-schools-go-mm/\">Oakland Unified School District\u003c/a> hopped on the Meatless Monday bandwagon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_20809\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.wasabimon.com/archive/welcome-to-macaron-week/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/macaron300.jpg\" alt=\"macarons - Photo by Stephanie Stiavetti\" title=\"macarons - Photo by Stephanie Stiavetti\" width=\"300\" height=\"187\" class=\"size-full wp-image-20809\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Macarons - Photo by Stephanie Stiavetti\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>9. Sweet Food\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now to dessert (with all due respect to the First Lady). Move over cupcakes macarons are the new trend treat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem> \u003ca href=\"http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748704269004575073843836895952.html\">The Wall Street Journal\u003c/a> \u003c/em>reported on French fretting that these formerly high-end confections (not to be confused with chewy coconut sweets with a similar spelling known as macaroons) are finding their way onto shelves at such mainstream American stores as Whole Foods and Trader Joe's. The soft, sandwich-like cookie, which resembles a pastel-hued minature hamburger, has also been popping up in patisseries and restaurant menus around the country. Natch, the blogosphere weighed in, with negative reviews for the meringue-style pastries on offer at Starbucks, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchtwistdc.com/2010/12/bye-bye-macarons-bonjour-cupcakes.html\">an amusing update that cupcakes are the new macarons in Paris\u003c/a>. Go figure. For you D.I.Y.ers: Pastry chef Hisako Ogita's \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/index/main,book-info/store,books/products_id,8167/title,I-Love-Macarons/\">I Love Macarons\u003c/a>\u003c/em> details \u003ca href=\"http://www.thegoodtastereview.com/2010/i-heart-macarons-by-hisako-ogita/\">how to make\u003c/a> the crunchy and chewy morsels at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Local angle:\u003c/em> These dainty nibbles can be found in Bay Area bakeries including \u003ca href=\"http://miettecakes.com\">Miette\u003c/a> in the Ferry Building, \u003ca href=\"http://paulettemacarons.com\">Paulette\u003c/a> in Hayes Valley, \u003ca href=\"http://pamplemoussecakes.com\">Pamplemousse\u003c/a> in Redwood City, and \u003ca href=\"http://bouchonbakery.com\">Bouchon Bakery\u003c/a> in Yountville.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites blogger \u003ca href=\"http://www.wasabimon.com/archive/welcome-to-macaron-week/\">Stephanie Stiavetti\u003c/a> sung the praises of these egg white, ground almonds, and sugar concoctions in a week's worth of recipe posts on her own blog.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Bay-Area-Bites/137008446337124\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/bab-facebook300.jpg\" alt=\"Bay Area Bites Facebook page\" title=\"Bay Area Bites Facebook page\" width=\"300\" height=\"216\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-20806\">\u003c/a>\u003cstrong>10. Virtual Food\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Social media and cyberspace continued to impact food consumption. As noted previously (see item #5 in \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/01/ten-top-food-stories-of-2010part-one/\">Part One\u003c/a>), Twitter + new wave food trucks = content consumers and cooks. Everyone seemed very app-y happy, with \u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/how-to-cook-everything/id367690249?mt=8\">Mark Bittman\u003c/a>, the \u003ca href=\"http://multivu.prnewswire.com/mnr/foodnetwork/46440/\">Food Network\u003c/a>, and even \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://eater.com/archives/2010/09/23/gourmet-live-gourmet-magazine-reborn-on-the-ipad.php\">Gourmet\u003c/a>\u003c/em> (R.I.P.) embracing the new technology. Not all old-school media, though, marveled at the development. (\u003ca href=\"http://www.observer.com/2010/media/gourmet-lives-pity-says-ruth-reichl\">Ruth Reichl\u003c/a>, writing on Twitter, ironically, called the move a \"pity.\") Regardless, cooking, eating, and drinking apps found fans: There are apps for \u003ca href=\"http://mashable.com/2010/11/15/apps-for-wine-enthusiasts\">wine enthusiasts\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://mashable.com./2010/12/26/healthy-eating-apps/\">environmentally-friendly eaters\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://mashable.com/2010/09/29/iphone-apps-global-cuisine\">ethnic edible adventurers\u003c/a>, among other food-focused iFinds. And, although some people doubted it would come to pass, cookbooks made the leap to \u003ca href=\"http://www.davidlebovitz.com/2010/01/e-cookbooks/\">ecookbooks\u003c/a> in a big way in 2010.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Local angle:\u003c/em> Budding Bay Area food businesses turned to social media to cash up their new edible enterprises. Examples include \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/paololucchesi/2010/12/28/oaklands-awaken-cafe-turns-to-social-media-value-accounts-for-pre-opening-fundraising/\">Awaken Cafe\u003c/a> in Oakland, and an \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2010/09/10/farmer-seeks-home-for-oil-press/\">olive oil press\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/pxdiaz/delphinium-cheese-co-small-batch-artisan-cheese\">cheese-making venture\u003c/a> that utilized Kickstarter to, well, kick start their companies in Berkeley. Early \u003ca href=\"http://vook.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=6\">ecookbook\u003c/a> adapters include Marin-based chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.breakawaycook.com\">Eric Gower\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And over at \u003cem>7x7 \u003c/em>food editor \u003ca href=\"http://www.7x7.com/eat-drink/feed-frenzy-sf-suffering-gluttony-food-information\">Sara Deseran\u003c/a> wondered out loud what a lot of local food writers have been thinking: With the explosion in new media -- think Yelpers, bloggers, and Tweeters -- is San Francisco suffering from a gluttony of information on all things edible?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What say you readers: Are there too many citizen scribes (not to mention a healthy helping of professional writers) weighing in on the minutia of every meal made in this city? Or does this town have an endless appetite for food news?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that, folks, was the year in food.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The top ten Food News Stories of 2010 continues: Food Security, New York Food, Animal Food, Sweet Food and Virtual Food","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1294087079,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":33,"wordCount":1198},"headData":{"title":"Ten Top Food News Stories of 2010: Part Two | KQED","description":"The top ten Food News Stories of 2010 continues: Food Security, New York Food, Animal Food, Sweet Food and Virtual Food","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"20645 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=20645","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/02/ten-top-food-news-stories-of-2010-part-two/","disqusTitle":"Ten Top Food News Stories of 2010: Part Two","path":"/bayareabites/20645/ten-top-food-news-stories-of-2010-part-two","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cem>Yesterday on BAB we \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/01/ten-top-food-stories-of-2010part-one/\">highlighted the year's food news\u003c/a> in food safety, D.I.Y. food, food politics, school food, and street food.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>The top ten for 2010 continues:\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_20825\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.phatbeetsproduce.org/about/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/the-beet-crew300.jpg\" alt=\"Phat Beets Produce is a food justice collective in Oakland - the Beet Crew. Photo by Zachary Matthews\" title=\"Phat Beets Produce is a food justice collective in Oakland - the Beet Crew. Photo by Zachary Matthews\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" class=\"size-full wp-image-20825\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Phat Beets Produce is a food justice collective in Oakland - the Beet Crew. Photo by Zachary Matthews\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>6. Food Security\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Late in the year in a cover story on class \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.newsweek.com/2010/11/22/what-food-says-about-class-in-america.html\">Newsweek\u003c/a>\u003c/em> explored the growing gap between the haves and have nots on the food front. \"The Dinner Divide\" noted that we are a nation where \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gourmet_Ghetto\">Gourmet Ghettos\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Food_desert\">food deserts\u003c/a> co-exist, often in close proximity in places like the Bay Area. The sad truth is that while many of us indulge our \"passion\" for local, organic chow, an increasingly larger group of Americans simply don't have access to enough healthy food to eat. Meanwhile, another European is attempting to help Americans in need feed themselves, namely Spanish native and James Beard Award-winning chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.josemadeinspain.com/bio.htm\">Jose Andres\u003c/a>, who heads up the nonprofit \u003ca href=\"http://dccentralkitchen.org/\">DC Central Kitchen\u003c/a>, which offers professional culinary training for formerly homeless, addicted, or imprisoned adults.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Local angle:\u003c/em> Actor Dan Hoyle skewered, among other things, hipster San Franciscans obsession with pristine produce with a politically-correct pedigree in his solo show at The Marsh \u003ca href=\"http://www.themarsh.org/dan_hoyle_real_americans.html\">The Real Americans\u003c/a>. Meanwhile, \u003ca href=\"http://phatbeetsproduce.org/\">Phat Beets Produce\u003c/a>, a volunteer-run collective, launched a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2005/09/14/community_supported-agriculture/\">Community Supported Agriculture\u003c/a> (CSA) box, nicknamed the \"Beet Box,\" in Oakland, to help under-supported small farmers and get produce to people who don't live near a farmers' market.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_20822\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/12/07/mario-batalis-eataly-a-visual-tour/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/eataly300.jpg\" alt=\"Eataly in NYC. Photo by Megan Gordon\" title=\"Eataly in NYC. Photo by Megan Gordon\" width=\"300\" height=\"212\" class=\"size-full wp-image-20822\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Eataly in NYC. Photo by Megan Gordon\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>7. New York Food\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Lest this list be accused of being too parochial, let's turn our attention to food news out of New York City this year. There was lots, much of it of a legislative nature. Depending on your perspective, Mayor Michael Bloomberg is either a crusader for the people's health or a publicly-funded no-fun-nik: The city took \u003ca href=\"http://cityroom.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/01/11/city-unveils-plan-to-trim-food-industrys-use-of-salt/\">a stand on sodium\u003c/a>, introduced \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2010/07/28/nyregion/28inspect.html\">letter grades to evaluate restaurant cleanliness\u003c/a>, tried to \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=130407221\">prevent food stamps recipients from using benefits to sip soda\u003c/a>, a \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2010/10/08/banning-soda-for-food-stamps-raises-tough-questions/\">controversial move\u003c/a> (even among anti-hunger and public health advocates) and \u003ca href=\"http://blogs.villagevoice.com/runninscared/2010/11/four_loko_banne.php\">outlawed alcoholic energy drink Four Loko\u003c/a>. Furthermore, a \u003ca href=\"http://health.usnews.com/health-news/blogs/on-fitness/2010/03/22/calorie-counts-on-restaurant-menus-as-part-of-health-reform.html\">calorie count initiative in restaurants\u003c/a> begun in the Big Apple went national on menus across the country this year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There was fun stuff too: Hello \u003ca href=\"http://www.nypost.com/p/lifestyle/food/welcome_to_eataly_G5QHOIVyNtzG44tyFb5GVM\">Eataly\u003c/a>, a high-end food emporium boasting all things Italian, launched late summer by the city's reigning food Mafia, covered in a photographic homage recently on Bay Area Bites by \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/12/07/mario-batalis-eataly-a-visual-tour/\">Megan Gordon\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Local angle:\u003c/em> San Franciscans welcomed Manhattan transplant \u003ca href=\"http://sanfrancisco.grubstreet.com/2010/08/anthony_mangieri_aiming_to_ope.html\">Anthony Mangieri\u003c/a> and his much-lauded \u003ca href=\"http://www.unapizza.com/sf/\">Una Pizza Napoletana\u003c/a> to town.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_20813\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/11/10/jonathan-safran-foer-video-interview-and-reading/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/jsf-eating-animals300.jpg\" alt=\"Jonathan Safran Foer at KQED holding his book, Eating Animals. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" title=\"Jonathan Safran Foer at KQED holding his book, Eating Animals. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\" width=\"300\" height=\"325\" class=\"size-full wp-image-20813\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Jonathan Safran Foer at KQED holding his book, Eating Animals. Photo by Wendy Goodfriend\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>8. Animal Food\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meat mattered this year. The \u003ca href=\"http://lettuceeatkale.com/2010/a-culinary-confession/\">culinary conversation\u003c/a> among carnivores, omnivores, vegetarians, and vegans continued as people pondered whether they could \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/11/10/jonathan-safran-foer-video-interview-and-reading/\">morally eat sustainably, humanely-raised animals\u003c/a> and wrestled with \u003ca href=\"http://www.salon.com/food/francis_lam/2010/08/18/meaning_of_meat_eating\">conflicted or confused feelings\u003c/a> about carnal consumption. Now more than ever, how much and what kind of meat we eat reflects our ethics, environmental values, economic status, as well as class, culture, and convenience.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>That said, \u003ca href=\"http://www.salon.com/food/feature/2010/03/11/rock_star_butcher_parties\">butchers made a comeback\u003c/a>, hosting \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/05/23/the-butcher-the-chef-and-the-goat/\">cleaving parties\u003c/a> from coast to coast. Meanwhile, the \u003ca href=\"http://www.meatlessmonday.com/\">Meatless Monday\u003c/a> campaign, which asks folks to forgo meat once a week for health and the environment, garnered the endorsement of celebrity chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.huffingtonpost.com/chris-elam/mario-batali-meatless-mon_b_557589.html\">Mario Batali\u003c/a>, long-known for serving plates laden with animal protein.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And in \u003ca href=\"http://www.culinate.com/books/book_excerpts/the_butcher_and_the_vegetarian\">books\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.salon.com/food/feature/2010/08/24/vegetarian_lover_foie_gras_open2010\">online\u003c/a> vegetarian gals chronicled their carnal adventures as they discovered the joys of the flesh.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Then, just as the year drew to a close, \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://nymag.com/restaurants/features/69369/\">New York Magazine\u003c/a>\u003c/em> announced that vegetables are the new meat, despite \u003ca href=\"http://www.nytimes.com/2010/09/25/health/policy/25vegetables.html\">significant evidence to the contrary\u003c/a>. Make of that what you will.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Local angle:\u003c/em> A queen of vegetarian cuisine, East Bay resident \u003ca href=\"http://www.molliekatzen.com\">Mollie Katzen\u003c/a>, came out with a cookbook that included meat dishes, a decision she found herself explaining in \u003ca href=\"http://civileats.com/2010/03/18/the-radical-necessity-of-cooking-mollie-katzen-vegetablist\">every interview\u003c/a> about \u003cem>Get Cooking\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While across the bridge the butcher's shop in Bernal Heights \u003ca href=\"http://avedanos.com\">Avedano's Holly Park Market\u003c/a>, run by a gaggle of self-taught gals, typifies the new-style yet old-fashioned meat market, offering cleaving classes using traditional tools and selling only local, sustainable meats. And the \u003ca href=\"http://www.meatlessmonday.com/oakland-schools-go-mm/\">Oakland Unified School District\u003c/a> hopped on the Meatless Monday bandwagon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_20809\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\" style=\"max-width: 300px\">\u003ca href=\"http://www.wasabimon.com/archive/welcome-to-macaron-week/\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/macaron300.jpg\" alt=\"macarons - Photo by Stephanie Stiavetti\" title=\"macarons - Photo by Stephanie Stiavetti\" width=\"300\" height=\"187\" class=\"size-full wp-image-20809\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Macarons - Photo by Stephanie Stiavetti\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>9. Sweet Food\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now to dessert (with all due respect to the First Lady). Move over cupcakes macarons are the new trend treat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem> \u003ca href=\"http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748704269004575073843836895952.html\">The Wall Street Journal\u003c/a> \u003c/em>reported on French fretting that these formerly high-end confections (not to be confused with chewy coconut sweets with a similar spelling known as macaroons) are finding their way onto shelves at such mainstream American stores as Whole Foods and Trader Joe's. The soft, sandwich-like cookie, which resembles a pastel-hued minature hamburger, has also been popping up in patisseries and restaurant menus around the country. Natch, the blogosphere weighed in, with negative reviews for the meringue-style pastries on offer at Starbucks, and \u003ca href=\"http://www.frenchtwistdc.com/2010/12/bye-bye-macarons-bonjour-cupcakes.html\">an amusing update that cupcakes are the new macarons in Paris\u003c/a>. Go figure. For you D.I.Y.ers: Pastry chef Hisako Ogita's \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.chroniclebooks.com/index/main,book-info/store,books/products_id,8167/title,I-Love-Macarons/\">I Love Macarons\u003c/a>\u003c/em> details \u003ca href=\"http://www.thegoodtastereview.com/2010/i-heart-macarons-by-hisako-ogita/\">how to make\u003c/a> the crunchy and chewy morsels at home.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Local angle:\u003c/em> These dainty nibbles can be found in Bay Area bakeries including \u003ca href=\"http://miettecakes.com\">Miette\u003c/a> in the Ferry Building, \u003ca href=\"http://paulettemacarons.com\">Paulette\u003c/a> in Hayes Valley, \u003ca href=\"http://pamplemoussecakes.com\">Pamplemousse\u003c/a> in Redwood City, and \u003ca href=\"http://bouchonbakery.com\">Bouchon Bakery\u003c/a> in Yountville.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bay Area Bites blogger \u003ca href=\"http://www.wasabimon.com/archive/welcome-to-macaron-week/\">Stephanie Stiavetti\u003c/a> sung the praises of these egg white, ground almonds, and sugar concoctions in a week's worth of recipe posts on her own blog.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/pages/Bay-Area-Bites/137008446337124\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2011/01/bab-facebook300.jpg\" alt=\"Bay Area Bites Facebook page\" title=\"Bay Area Bites Facebook page\" width=\"300\" height=\"216\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-20806\">\u003c/a>\u003cstrong>10. Virtual Food\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Social media and cyberspace continued to impact food consumption. As noted previously (see item #5 in \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2011/01/01/ten-top-food-stories-of-2010part-one/\">Part One\u003c/a>), Twitter + new wave food trucks = content consumers and cooks. Everyone seemed very app-y happy, with \u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/how-to-cook-everything/id367690249?mt=8\">Mark Bittman\u003c/a>, the \u003ca href=\"http://multivu.prnewswire.com/mnr/foodnetwork/46440/\">Food Network\u003c/a>, and even \u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://eater.com/archives/2010/09/23/gourmet-live-gourmet-magazine-reborn-on-the-ipad.php\">Gourmet\u003c/a>\u003c/em> (R.I.P.) embracing the new technology. Not all old-school media, though, marveled at the development. (\u003ca href=\"http://www.observer.com/2010/media/gourmet-lives-pity-says-ruth-reichl\">Ruth Reichl\u003c/a>, writing on Twitter, ironically, called the move a \"pity.\") Regardless, cooking, eating, and drinking apps found fans: There are apps for \u003ca href=\"http://mashable.com/2010/11/15/apps-for-wine-enthusiasts\">wine enthusiasts\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://mashable.com./2010/12/26/healthy-eating-apps/\">environmentally-friendly eaters\u003c/a>, and \u003ca href=\"http://mashable.com/2010/09/29/iphone-apps-global-cuisine\">ethnic edible adventurers\u003c/a>, among other food-focused iFinds. And, although some people doubted it would come to pass, cookbooks made the leap to \u003ca href=\"http://www.davidlebovitz.com/2010/01/e-cookbooks/\">ecookbooks\u003c/a> in a big way in 2010.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Local angle:\u003c/em> Budding Bay Area food businesses turned to social media to cash up their new edible enterprises. Examples include \u003ca href=\"http://insidescoopsf.sfgate.com/paololucchesi/2010/12/28/oaklands-awaken-cafe-turns-to-social-media-value-accounts-for-pre-opening-fundraising/\">Awaken Cafe\u003c/a> in Oakland, and an \u003ca href=\"http://www.berkeleyside.com/2010/09/10/farmer-seeks-home-for-oil-press/\">olive oil press\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/pxdiaz/delphinium-cheese-co-small-batch-artisan-cheese\">cheese-making venture\u003c/a> that utilized Kickstarter to, well, kick start their companies in Berkeley. Early \u003ca href=\"http://vook.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=6\">ecookbook\u003c/a> adapters include Marin-based chef \u003ca href=\"http://www.breakawaycook.com\">Eric Gower\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And over at \u003cem>7x7 \u003c/em>food editor \u003ca href=\"http://www.7x7.com/eat-drink/feed-frenzy-sf-suffering-gluttony-food-information\">Sara Deseran\u003c/a> wondered out loud what a lot of local food writers have been thinking: With the explosion in new media -- think Yelpers, bloggers, and Tweeters -- is San Francisco suffering from a gluttony of information on all things edible?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What say you readers: Are there too many citizen scribes (not to mention a healthy helping of professional writers) weighing in on the minutia of every meal made in this city? Or does this town have an endless appetite for food news?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And that, folks, was the year in food.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/20645/ten-top-food-news-stories-of-2010-part-two","authors":["5125"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_109","bayareabites_2254","bayareabites_63","bayareabites_588","bayareabites_4084","bayareabites_1875","bayareabites_2035"],"tags":["bayareabites_8699","bayareabites_8691","bayareabites_8681","bayareabites_8695","bayareabites_8700","bayareabites_1867","bayareabites_8708","bayareabites_8710","bayareabites_8685","bayareabites_2946","bayareabites_8701","bayareabites_8683","bayareabites_8688","bayareabites_8702","bayareabites_8684","bayareabites_8713","bayareabites_8692","bayareabites_8679","bayareabites_8682","bayareabites_8705","bayareabites_8693","bayareabites_8706","bayareabites_8712","bayareabites_8694","bayareabites_2945","bayareabites_8711","bayareabites_8686","bayareabites_956","bayareabites_676","bayareabites_8687","bayareabites_8689","bayareabites_8697","bayareabites_672","bayareabites_8696","bayareabites_8714","bayareabites_8707","bayareabites_2153","bayareabites_8704","bayareabites_8690","bayareabites_8767","bayareabites_8709","bayareabites_8680"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_19517":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_19517","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"19517","score":null,"sort":[1291737614000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"mario-batalis-eataly-a-visual-tour","title":"Mario Batali's Eataly: A Visual Tour","publishDate":1291737614,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/exterior.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/exterior.jpg\" alt=\"exterior Eataly\" title=\"exterior Eataly\" width=\"500\" height=\"354\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19518\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nOver Thanksgiving, I flew to New York to share Thanksgiving with my extended family. After the feast itself, I had a pretty lengthy list of places I wanted to try and dishes I had to taste before leaving the city. And when it comes down to it, Mario Batali's \u003ca href=\"http://eatalyny.com/\">Eataly\u003c/a> really deserves its own post. It is quite something--all 50,000 square feet of it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eataly is touted as the largest artisanal Italian food and wine marketplace in the world, and you certainly sense that upon walking in. The place is overwhelming in its variety, selection, and hungry crowds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/entrance.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/entrance.jpg\" alt=\"entrance to Eataly\" title=\"entrance to Eataly\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19520\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Back entrance to Eataly\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What Mario Batali and partners Joe Bastianich, Lidia Bastianich (and a few others) have done with Eataly is successfully create a high-end marketplace that has distinct sections so it almost feels like a large, airy hall with its own pizzeria, fish market, cheese market, handmade pasta, fruits and vegetables, and wine and coffee bar. There are seven separate restaurants and they're trying to keep it that way, avoiding Eataly taking on more of a food court kind of vibe. We actually experienced this first-hand when my sister and I tried to finish our slice of pizza at the tables where you order your cheeses and meats. Apparently, so not acceptable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The nice thing about Eataly is you can literally walk through and gawk and savor without purchasing a darn thing. It's an experience in and of itself. Besides our light lunch, we didn't actually buy anything (although there were dozens of opportunities to do so). I can certainly imagine if you lived in the neighborhood, it'd be a fabulous spot to pop in and pick up some homemade pasta or freshly pulled mozzarella. But I think on your first visit, it's all you can do just to take it all in. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's the cheese. Oh, the cheese.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/cheese-counter.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/cheese-counter.jpg\" alt=\"cheese counter\" title=\"cheese counter\" width=\"500\" height=\"462\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19521\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The friendly folks at the cheese counter\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As if the cheese counter isn't enough, you turn around and there's a nice gentleman hand pulling mozzarella. You must try the mozzarella. It's to die for. It's just a little bit salty, ultra creamy, and perfectly soft.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/cheese.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/cheese.jpg\" alt=\"mozzarella\" title=\"mozzarella\" width=\"500\" height=\"461\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19522\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mozzarella! \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After you check out the cheese, there's meat to be had. From housemade prosciutto to perfectly cured salumi, this is a tough area to pass up. And this is obviously in \u003ca href=\"http://www.salumicuredmeats.com/\">Batali's genes\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/meat.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/meat.jpg\" alt=\"cured meat\" title=\"cured meat\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19523\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The vast array of cured meats & the meat counter at Eataly\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then, of course, there's the pizza and foccaccia. You can see the gentleman on the top right there preparing the foccaccia dough and that's my little sister Zoe doing a taste-test. She approved. We both did.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/pizza-real.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/pizza-real.jpg\" alt=\"pizza at Eataly\" title=\"pizza at Eataly\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19524\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pizza and foccaccia at Eataly\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everywhere you turn, there are little nooks and communal tables for folks to sit down and enjoy their meals, snacks, or quick tastes. This was my favorite part of Eataly, actually. It's very non-committal in terms of actually having a meal. They encourage trying a little of this and a little of that and coming together and sharing them. You see families splitting up and getting samples of things and coming back to show off their finds. And then, of course, you see families just sitting down and having a traditional meal in one of the restaurants. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/family-eating.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/family-eating.jpg\" alt=\"family eating\" title=\"family eating\" width=\"500\" height=\"376\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19525\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sharing a post-thanksgiving Italian lunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mom and sisters and I ended up parking it by the cheese counter, sharing a plate of house-cured meats and a variety of cheeses and olives. It was the perfect little mid-afternoon pick-me up.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/lunch.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/lunch.jpg\" alt=\"lunch at eataly\" title=\"lunch at eataly\" width=\"500\" height=\"296\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19527\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Our lunch at Eataly\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After you do a little grazing, there's always dessert and coffee.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/coffee-and-dessert.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/coffee-and-dessert.jpg\" alt=\"coffee and dessert\" title=\"coffee and dessert\" width=\"500\" height=\"461\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19526\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Beautiful espresso machine and sweet dessert options\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I actually noticed many people pulling up to have a quick espresso before delving into the market. Smart. You're going to need the stamina. But if you're in the right head space (that it'll be crowded and you don't have the place to yourself), Eataly is not to be missed. It's a visual smorgasbord of the best Italian packaged goods and prepared foods I've ever seen under one roof. If you are in New York and you're even remotely interested in food, this is stop #1. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://eatalyny.com/\">Eataly\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n200 Fifth Avenue\u003cbr>\n(at 23rd Street)\u003cbr>\nNew York, NY 10010\u003cbr>\n(212) 229-2560\u003cbr>\nHours: Market 10am- 11pm daily; for to-go and restaurant sections of Eataly, check the \u003ca href=\"http://eatalyny.com/how-to-eataly/location-hours\">website\u003c/a> for more detailed information\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Megan Gordon traveled to New York City last week and snapped some photos. Here's her visual tour of Mario Batali's Eataly.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1291704059,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":17,"wordCount":757},"headData":{"title":"Mario Batali's Eataly: A Visual Tour | KQED","description":"Megan Gordon traveled to New York City last week and snapped some photos. Here's her visual tour of Mario Batali's Eataly.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"19517 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=19517","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/12/07/mario-batalis-eataly-a-visual-tour/","disqusTitle":"Mario Batali's Eataly: A Visual Tour","path":"/bayareabites/19517/mario-batalis-eataly-a-visual-tour","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/exterior.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/exterior.jpg\" alt=\"exterior Eataly\" title=\"exterior Eataly\" width=\"500\" height=\"354\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19518\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\nOver Thanksgiving, I flew to New York to share Thanksgiving with my extended family. After the feast itself, I had a pretty lengthy list of places I wanted to try and dishes I had to taste before leaving the city. And when it comes down to it, Mario Batali's \u003ca href=\"http://eatalyny.com/\">Eataly\u003c/a> really deserves its own post. It is quite something--all 50,000 square feet of it. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Eataly is touted as the largest artisanal Italian food and wine marketplace in the world, and you certainly sense that upon walking in. The place is overwhelming in its variety, selection, and hungry crowds. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/entrance.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/entrance.jpg\" alt=\"entrance to Eataly\" title=\"entrance to Eataly\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19520\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Back entrance to Eataly\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What Mario Batali and partners Joe Bastianich, Lidia Bastianich (and a few others) have done with Eataly is successfully create a high-end marketplace that has distinct sections so it almost feels like a large, airy hall with its own pizzeria, fish market, cheese market, handmade pasta, fruits and vegetables, and wine and coffee bar. There are seven separate restaurants and they're trying to keep it that way, avoiding Eataly taking on more of a food court kind of vibe. We actually experienced this first-hand when my sister and I tried to finish our slice of pizza at the tables where you order your cheeses and meats. Apparently, so not acceptable. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The nice thing about Eataly is you can literally walk through and gawk and savor without purchasing a darn thing. It's an experience in and of itself. Besides our light lunch, we didn't actually buy anything (although there were dozens of opportunities to do so). I can certainly imagine if you lived in the neighborhood, it'd be a fabulous spot to pop in and pick up some homemade pasta or freshly pulled mozzarella. But I think on your first visit, it's all you can do just to take it all in. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's the cheese. Oh, the cheese.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/cheese-counter.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/cheese-counter.jpg\" alt=\"cheese counter\" title=\"cheese counter\" width=\"500\" height=\"462\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19521\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The friendly folks at the cheese counter\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As if the cheese counter isn't enough, you turn around and there's a nice gentleman hand pulling mozzarella. You must try the mozzarella. It's to die for. It's just a little bit salty, ultra creamy, and perfectly soft.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/cheese.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/cheese.jpg\" alt=\"mozzarella\" title=\"mozzarella\" width=\"500\" height=\"461\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19522\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Mozzarella! \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After you check out the cheese, there's meat to be had. From housemade prosciutto to perfectly cured salumi, this is a tough area to pass up. And this is obviously in \u003ca href=\"http://www.salumicuredmeats.com/\">Batali's genes\u003c/a>.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/meat.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/meat.jpg\" alt=\"cured meat\" title=\"cured meat\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19523\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The vast array of cured meats & the meat counter at Eataly\u003cbr>\n\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then, of course, there's the pizza and foccaccia. You can see the gentleman on the top right there preparing the foccaccia dough and that's my little sister Zoe doing a taste-test. She approved. We both did.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/pizza-real.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/pizza-real.jpg\" alt=\"pizza at Eataly\" title=\"pizza at Eataly\" width=\"500\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19524\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Pizza and foccaccia at Eataly\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everywhere you turn, there are little nooks and communal tables for folks to sit down and enjoy their meals, snacks, or quick tastes. This was my favorite part of Eataly, actually. It's very non-committal in terms of actually having a meal. They encourage trying a little of this and a little of that and coming together and sharing them. You see families splitting up and getting samples of things and coming back to show off their finds. And then, of course, you see families just sitting down and having a traditional meal in one of the restaurants. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/family-eating.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/family-eating.jpg\" alt=\"family eating\" title=\"family eating\" width=\"500\" height=\"376\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19525\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Sharing a post-thanksgiving Italian lunch\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mom and sisters and I ended up parking it by the cheese counter, sharing a plate of house-cured meats and a variety of cheeses and olives. It was the perfect little mid-afternoon pick-me up.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/lunch.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/lunch.jpg\" alt=\"lunch at eataly\" title=\"lunch at eataly\" width=\"500\" height=\"296\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19527\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Our lunch at Eataly\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After you do a little grazing, there's always dessert and coffee.\u003cbr>\n\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/coffee-and-dessert.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/11/coffee-and-dessert.jpg\" alt=\"coffee and dessert\" title=\"coffee and dessert\" width=\"500\" height=\"461\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-19526\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Beautiful espresso machine and sweet dessert options\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I actually noticed many people pulling up to have a quick espresso before delving into the market. Smart. You're going to need the stamina. But if you're in the right head space (that it'll be crowded and you don't have the place to yourself), Eataly is not to be missed. It's a visual smorgasbord of the best Italian packaged goods and prepared foods I've ever seen under one roof. If you are in New York and you're even remotely interested in food, this is stop #1. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://eatalyny.com/\">Eataly\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n200 Fifth Avenue\u003cbr>\n(at 23rd Street)\u003cbr>\nNew York, NY 10010\u003cbr>\n(212) 229-2560\u003cbr>\nHours: Market 10am- 11pm daily; for to-go and restaurant sections of Eataly, check the \u003ca href=\"http://eatalyny.com/how-to-eataly/location-hours\">website\u003c/a> for more detailed information\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/19517/mario-batalis-eataly-a-visual-tour","authors":["5072"],"categories":["bayareabites_752","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_61"],"tags":["bayareabites_14750","bayareabites_8564","bayareabites_956","bayareabites_72","bayareabites_714"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_17187":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_17187","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"17187","score":null,"sort":[1285091981000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"tomatoes-an-addiction-early-girl-tomato-sauce","title":"Tomatoes: An Addiction (Early Girl Tomato Sauce)","publishDate":1285091981,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/IMG_9727.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/IMG_9727.jpg\" alt=\"Early Girl Tomatoes\" title=\"Early Girl Tomatoes\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-17192\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>24 lbs of Early Girl Tomatoes\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have a confession to make: I've been on a bit of a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/09/13/14th-annual-kendall-jackson-heirloom-tomato-festival/\">tomato bender\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I just can't help it. They are just so irresistible. I've been popping cherry tomatoes like pills, sneaking slices and dices of heirlooms into every meal, and lusting after \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/foodmusings/you-say-tomato-i-say-more-tomatoes/\">Early Girls\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thsTPNfKbRk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I recently came across this \u003cstrong>Mario Batali\u003c/strong> clip, and learned that there is a word for my ailment. The Italians call it \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Scorpacciata\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It means, essentially, a feeding frenzy…specifically, on something that is in season. In Batali's words, it's when something comes into season, and you \"go at it with a vengeance.\" You have it in every way that you can, you commit to it, you gorge on it, eating as much of it as possible, because in the real world, that one shining item is only available, in its prime deliciousness, for a small window of time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ah, see? The Italians have been doing it for so long, they have a whole word for it. That makes me feel better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To help feed my feeding frenzy, I turned once again this year, to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariquita.com/events/BuyingClub.html\">Ladybug Truck\u003c/a>, Mariquita Farm's bulk buying club. I showed up early at the drop-off point (a.k.a. \u003ca href=\"http://www.piccinocafe.com/\">Piccino\u003c/a>), and indulged in a lovely brunch al fresco to take the edge off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/piccino-collage.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/piccino-collage.jpg\" alt=\"Brunch at Piccino Cafe\" title=\"Brunch at Piccino Cafe\" width=\"500\" height=\"349\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-17194\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Brunch at Piccino Cafe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Roasted Fruit Bruschetta\u003c/strong> (chewy, crispy slices of house-made bread, slathered with honey butter and topped with roasted strawberries and pluots, basil, and a drizzle of crème fraiche) and \u003cstrong>Salsiccia Pizza\u003c/strong> (house-made sausage, red onions, mozzarella, topped with two perfectly soft-baked eggs) got me feeling pretty good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/IMG_9725.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/IMG_9725.jpg\" alt=\"The Ladybug Truck\" title=\"The Ladybug Truck\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-17191\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Ladybug Truck\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then my supplier came. Score. I procured my 24 pounds of Early Girl gold and got my canning underway. There is nothing in the world like pulling out a jar of canned fresh tomatoes in the dead of winter, and getting a little jolt of summer again. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/IMG_9729.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/IMG_9729.jpg\" alt=\"Peeled tomatoes\" title=\"Peeled tomatoes\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-17193\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Peeled tomatoes\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I couldn't wait to taste my loot and made a batch of sauce right away for that night's dinner. A simple and utterly satisfying meal of angel hair pasta and \u003cstrong>Early Girl Tomato Sauce\u003c/strong>. This sauce is made with four ingredients: peeled Early Girls, a clove of garlic, a spoonful of sugar, and a splash of balsamic vinegar. Cross my heart, that's all you need. And here's a secret: add a little cream at the end and you've got \u003cstrong>Tomato Soup\u003c/strong>!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You may recall another recipe for \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/08/25/spaghetti-and-meatballs/\">Tomato (Butter) Sauce\u003c/a> I shared not long ago...well, I'm not saying that one tomato sauce is better than the other. I love them both the same, in different ways. Like jeans. There are skinny jeans, and there are comfy jeans. There are work jeans, and there are going-out jeans. I could carry this comparison on for a while, but I think you get the idea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I'm saying is…sometimes you need a little butter comfort in your life. And sometimes you need pure, fresh, healthy, goodness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, what are you waiting for? \u003cem>Farsi una scorpacciata\u003c/em>! Quick, before it's too late!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/Early-Girl-Tomato-Sauce-09.04.10.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/Early-Girl-Tomato-Sauce-09.04.10.jpg\" alt=\"Spaghetti with Early Girl Tomato Sauce\" title=\"Spaghetti with Early Girl Tomato Sauce\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-17189\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Spaghetti with Early Girl Tomato Sauce\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Early Girl Tomato Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>As Bay Area gourmands like to say, it's all about the ingredients. These dry-farmed Early Girl tomatoes are so intense and sweet, they make for an incredibly simple, utterly delicious tomato sauce. I've also been known to add a splash of cream at the end and turn this into Tomato Soup!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> Enough to coat ½ pound spaghetti\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAbout 1 quart container of peeled Early Girl tomatoes *\u003cbr>\n1 clove garlic, minced\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon sugar\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1.\tHeat up a tablespoon of olive oil in a saucepan and add the minced garlic. Sautee to soften the garlic, making sure not to brown/burn.\u003cbr>\n2.\tPuree the tomatoes in a blender or food processor\u003cbr>\n3.\tAdd the tomatoes, sugar, and balsamic vinegar to the saucepan. Let simmer until sauce thickens. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* \u003cem>If you are working with fresh tomatoes, remove the skins by dropping the tomatoes in boiling water for 1 minute. Remove and run under cold water. You should then be able to easily peel the tomatoes. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":" I have a confession to make: I've been on a bit of a tomato bender.\r\n\r\nI just can't help it. They are just so irresistible. I've been popping cherry tomatoes like pills, sneaking slices and dices of heirlooms into every meal, and lusting after Early Girls. I recently came across this Mario Batali clip, and learned that there is a word for my ailment. The Italians call it \u003cem>Scorpacciata\u003c/em>.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1440191072,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":true,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":24,"wordCount":726},"headData":{"title":"Tomatoes: An Addiction (Early Girl Tomato Sauce) | KQED","description":" I have a confession to make: I've been on a bit of a tomato bender.\r\n\r\nI just can't help it. They are just so irresistible. I've been popping cherry tomatoes like pills, sneaking slices and dices of heirlooms into every meal, and lusting after Early Girls. I recently came across this Mario Batali clip, and learned that there is a word for my ailment. The Italians call it Scorpacciata.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"17187 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=17187","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/09/21/tomatoes-an-addiction-early-girl-tomato-sauce/","disqusTitle":"Tomatoes: An Addiction (Early Girl Tomato Sauce)","path":"/bayareabites/17187/tomatoes-an-addiction-early-girl-tomato-sauce","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/IMG_9727.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/IMG_9727.jpg\" alt=\"Early Girl Tomatoes\" title=\"Early Girl Tomatoes\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-17192\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>24 lbs of Early Girl Tomatoes\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I have a confession to make: I've been on a bit of a \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/09/13/14th-annual-kendall-jackson-heirloom-tomato-festival/\">tomato bender\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I just can't help it. They are just so irresistible. I've been popping cherry tomatoes like pills, sneaking slices and dices of heirlooms into every meal, and lusting after \u003ca href=\"http://lickmyspoon.com/foodmusings/you-say-tomato-i-say-more-tomatoes/\">Early Girls\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutube'>\n \u003cspan class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__embedYoutubeInside'>\n \u003ciframe\n loading='lazy'\n class='utils-parseShortcode-shortcodes-__youtubeShortcode__youtubePlayer'\n type='text/html'\n src='//www.youtube.com/embed/thsTPNfKbRk'\n title='//www.youtube.com/embed/thsTPNfKbRk'\n allowfullscreen='true'\n style='border:0;'>\u003c/iframe>\n \u003c/span>\n \u003c/span>\u003c/p>\u003cp>\u003cp>I recently came across this \u003cstrong>Mario Batali\u003c/strong> clip, and learned that there is a word for my ailment. The Italians call it \u003cstrong>\u003cem>Scorpacciata\u003c/em>\u003c/strong>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It means, essentially, a feeding frenzy…specifically, on something that is in season. In Batali's words, it's when something comes into season, and you \"go at it with a vengeance.\" You have it in every way that you can, you commit to it, you gorge on it, eating as much of it as possible, because in the real world, that one shining item is only available, in its prime deliciousness, for a small window of time.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Ah, see? The Italians have been doing it for so long, they have a whole word for it. That makes me feel better.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To help feed my feeding frenzy, I turned once again this year, to the \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariquita.com/events/BuyingClub.html\">Ladybug Truck\u003c/a>, Mariquita Farm's bulk buying club. I showed up early at the drop-off point (a.k.a. \u003ca href=\"http://www.piccinocafe.com/\">Piccino\u003c/a>), and indulged in a lovely brunch al fresco to take the edge off.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/piccino-collage.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/piccino-collage.jpg\" alt=\"Brunch at Piccino Cafe\" title=\"Brunch at Piccino Cafe\" width=\"500\" height=\"349\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-17194\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Brunch at Piccino Cafe\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Roasted Fruit Bruschetta\u003c/strong> (chewy, crispy slices of house-made bread, slathered with honey butter and topped with roasted strawberries and pluots, basil, and a drizzle of crème fraiche) and \u003cstrong>Salsiccia Pizza\u003c/strong> (house-made sausage, red onions, mozzarella, topped with two perfectly soft-baked eggs) got me feeling pretty good.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/IMG_9725.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/IMG_9725.jpg\" alt=\"The Ladybug Truck\" title=\"The Ladybug Truck\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-17191\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>The Ladybug Truck\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And then my supplier came. Score. I procured my 24 pounds of Early Girl gold and got my canning underway. There is nothing in the world like pulling out a jar of canned fresh tomatoes in the dead of winter, and getting a little jolt of summer again. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/IMG_9729.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/IMG_9729.jpg\" alt=\"Peeled tomatoes\" title=\"Peeled tomatoes\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-17193\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Peeled tomatoes\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I couldn't wait to taste my loot and made a batch of sauce right away for that night's dinner. A simple and utterly satisfying meal of angel hair pasta and \u003cstrong>Early Girl Tomato Sauce\u003c/strong>. This sauce is made with four ingredients: peeled Early Girls, a clove of garlic, a spoonful of sugar, and a splash of balsamic vinegar. Cross my heart, that's all you need. And here's a secret: add a little cream at the end and you've got \u003cstrong>Tomato Soup\u003c/strong>!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You may recall another recipe for \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/08/25/spaghetti-and-meatballs/\">Tomato (Butter) Sauce\u003c/a> I shared not long ago...well, I'm not saying that one tomato sauce is better than the other. I love them both the same, in different ways. Like jeans. There are skinny jeans, and there are comfy jeans. There are work jeans, and there are going-out jeans. I could carry this comparison on for a while, but I think you get the idea.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What I'm saying is…sometimes you need a little butter comfort in your life. And sometimes you need pure, fresh, healthy, goodness. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, what are you waiting for? \u003cem>Farsi una scorpacciata\u003c/em>! Quick, before it's too late!\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/Early-Girl-Tomato-Sauce-09.04.10.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/Early-Girl-Tomato-Sauce-09.04.10.jpg\" alt=\"Spaghetti with Early Girl Tomato Sauce\" title=\"Spaghetti with Early Girl Tomato Sauce\" width=\"333\" height=\"500\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-17189\">\u003c/a>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>Spaghetti with Early Girl Tomato Sauce\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Early Girl Tomato Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cem>As Bay Area gourmands like to say, it's all about the ingredients. These dry-farmed Early Girl tomatoes are so intense and sweet, they make for an incredibly simple, utterly delicious tomato sauce. I've also been known to add a splash of cream at the end and turn this into Tomato Soup!\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Makes:\u003c/strong> Enough to coat ½ pound spaghetti\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nAbout 1 quart container of peeled Early Girl tomatoes *\u003cbr>\n1 clove garlic, minced\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon sugar\u003cbr>\n1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Preparation:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n1.\tHeat up a tablespoon of olive oil in a saucepan and add the minced garlic. Sautee to soften the garlic, making sure not to brown/burn.\u003cbr>\n2.\tPuree the tomatoes in a blender or food processor\u003cbr>\n3.\tAdd the tomatoes, sugar, and balsamic vinegar to the saucepan. Let simmer until sauce thickens. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>* \u003cem>If you are working with fresh tomatoes, remove the skins by dropping the tomatoes in boiling water for 1 minute. Remove and run under cold water. You should then be able to easily peel the tomatoes. \u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/17187/tomatoes-an-addiction-early-girl-tomato-sauce","authors":["5037"],"categories":["bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_8395","bayareabites_956","bayareabites_369","bayareabites_2099","bayareabites_8397","bayareabites_8396","bayareabites_455","bayareabites_453"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_16758":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_16758","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"16758","score":null,"sort":[1283526010000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"secrets-from-a-chef-cafe-des-amiss-gordon-drysdale","title":"Secrets from a Chef: Café des Amis's Gordon Drysdale","publishDate":1283526010,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/gordon-drysdale500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/gordon-drysdale500.jpg\" alt=\"Gordon Drysdale\" title=\"Gordon Drysdale\" width=\"500\" height=\"569\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16761\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef \u003cstrong>Gordon Drysdale\u003c/strong> is back in the kitchen, at the newly opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.cafedesamissf.com/\">Café Des Amis\u003c/a>, a Union Street restaurant project that he has been working on via his role as Chef & Partner for the locally owned Bacchus Management Group. Drysdale is also in charge of the kitchens at Pizza Antica locations, which recently opened a Santa Monica outpost. Drysdale still fields requests for his trademark dish of Brussels sprouts salad, which he calls an unlikely best seller, \"It's like having rutabaga on the menu, with 100s of thousands of people asking 'when will it be on the menu?'\" adding he's happy to have a popular dish that resonates. The dish first caught notice in the late 1990s, at his much celebrated \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=81678378367\">Gordon's House of Fine Eats\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Favorites\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nDrysdale has lived in the Homestead Valley area of Mill Valley for years, with his wife Susie, and two pre-teen sons, Miles, and Monroe. The Rochester, New York native describes the area as \"old timey and cool, very Kerouac-ish.\" He admits that he likes to dine out with the family when he has a day off, but given the chance, \"I'd probably go to Benu tonight if I could, like everyone else.\" The chef has visited \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/royal-thai-restaurant-san-rafael\">Royal Thai Restaurant\u003c/a> in San Rafael at least 900 times in the past twenty years, and he orders the same three dishes each visit. \"Tofu with spicy green beans and basil; wheat gluten with potato and yellow curry; and ground pork with lime and chili. My older son, Miles gets his own order of the ground pork dish, and Monroe digs into the chicken satay.\" This restaurant gets the highest praise from Drysdale, who said, \"it's the most consistent restaurant I've eaten anywhere. In my life.' \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/cactus-cafe-mill-valley\">Cactus Café\u003c/a> in Mill Valley is where Drysdale likes to eat a house salad with \"what tastes like a marjoram laced dressing, very interesting. It comes with a quesadilla, and is very simple. For a son of authentic British stock, this is very easy to take.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drysdale deadpans, \"We're always looking for some variation on the theme of white for Monroe: pasta, pizza, and French fries.\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.mamacitasf.com/\">Mamacita\u003c/a> in the Marina keeps his sons happy, where carnitas tacos with guacamole grace the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Special Occasions, Sweets\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFor his wedding anniversary in October, Drysdale and Susie go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa\u003c/a>. Chef David Kinch’s food is \"lighter, with more 'unexpected' going on. And the sommelier does the most amazing wine pairings with the food. It's a raw deal that Manresa only has one Michelin star.\" The two also trek to \u003ca href=\"http://www.powellsss.com/go/index.cfm\">Powell's Sweet Shoppe\u003c/a> in Los Gatos, to buy sweet treats for their sons in a store that \"has almost an Eisenhower feel to it.' \u003ca href=\"http://www.miettecakes.com/\">Miette\u003c/a> in the Ferry Building is another go-to for the sweet fixes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If I every have another New Year's Eve free, I'd spend it at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bixrestaurant.com/\">Bix\u003c/a>\" where he was the opening chef for the Doug Biederbeck-Real Restaurant Gold Coast spot. He and Susie spent many a memorable night there, and \"it's flat out magical, and hard to beat expectations here. Doug Biederbeck really draws it out on New Year's.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Produce and The Big Mac\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe \u003ca href=\"http://www.agriculturalinstitute.org/index/getMarketDetails?type=Markets&id=20080805091943.active\">Marin Farmers Market\u003c/a> is \"for my money, the one to beat,\" said Drysdale. \"There's some charm to the Ferry Plaza... a lot of great things go on there.\" Drysdale packs a bag lunch in his car daily, with \"annoyingly healthy\" carrots, celery, and apples. \"But in that bag, there's always chocolate,\" he said. \"I am a recent devotee and passionate fan of \u003ca href=\"http://www.tcho.com/\">TCHO\u003c/a>.\" Chocolate is a guilty pleasure, and once a year, he and Susie have a ritual Big Mac with extra pickles from McDonald's. Adding pickles \"makes sure they are making it right then and there, right.\" Still, \"I may never do it again,\" and am loathe to admit it is an item he consumes, even once a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chefs & Cookbooks That Inspire\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\"I am a lifelong, ardent and passionate believer in \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/08/03/scouting-alice-waters-bay-area-eats/\">Alice Waters\u003c/a>. Of course I am,\" said Drysdale, adding, \"Who isn't?\" He loves the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/intro.php\">Chez Panisse Café\u003c/a>, and the simple pleasure one gets there, that \"you can't get anywhere else. A perfect peach, lightly chilled. Some may deter, but I love a perfect peach sometimes. The \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Chez-Panisse-Cookbook-Alice-Waters/dp/0060175834\">Chez Panisse Café cookbook\u003c/a> is wonderful, and I can't wait for the December-January run of steelhead to do steelhead roe.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drysdale has been using \u003ca href=\"http://www.ciachef.edu/admissions/spotlight/spotlight.asp?iSpotID=450\">Jasper White's\u003c/a> Cooking from New England cookbook for twenty-five years, and also loves the books and restaurants of \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariobatali.com/\">Mario Batali\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"http://www.paula-wolfert.com/\">Paula Wolfert\u003c/a> is another favorite resource, for her \"cool, weird recipes that make me go 'Huh, wow, okay.\"' \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Chef Gordon Drysdale is back in the kitchen, at the newly opened Café Des Amis, a Union Street restaurant project that he has been working on via his role as Chef & Partner for the locally owned Bacchus Management Group. Drysdale is also in charge of the kitchens at Pizza Antica locations, which recently opened a Santa Monica outpost. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1283470645,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":12,"wordCount":802},"headData":{"title":"Secrets from a Chef: Café des Amis's Gordon Drysdale | KQED","description":"Chef Gordon Drysdale is back in the kitchen, at the newly opened Café Des Amis, a Union Street restaurant project that he has been working on via his role as Chef & Partner for the locally owned Bacchus Management Group. Drysdale is also in charge of the kitchens at Pizza Antica locations, which recently opened a Santa Monica outpost. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"16758 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=16758","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/09/03/secrets-from-a-chef-cafe-des-amiss-gordon-drysdale/","disqusTitle":"Secrets from a Chef: Café des Amis's Gordon Drysdale","path":"/bayareabites/16758/secrets-from-a-chef-cafe-des-amiss-gordon-drysdale","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/gordon-drysdale500.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2010/09/gordon-drysdale500.jpg\" alt=\"Gordon Drysdale\" title=\"Gordon Drysdale\" width=\"500\" height=\"569\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-16761\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Chef \u003cstrong>Gordon Drysdale\u003c/strong> is back in the kitchen, at the newly opened \u003ca href=\"http://www.cafedesamissf.com/\">Café Des Amis\u003c/a>, a Union Street restaurant project that he has been working on via his role as Chef & Partner for the locally owned Bacchus Management Group. Drysdale is also in charge of the kitchens at Pizza Antica locations, which recently opened a Santa Monica outpost. Drysdale still fields requests for his trademark dish of Brussels sprouts salad, which he calls an unlikely best seller, \"It's like having rutabaga on the menu, with 100s of thousands of people asking 'when will it be on the menu?'\" adding he's happy to have a popular dish that resonates. The dish first caught notice in the late 1990s, at his much celebrated \u003ca href=\"http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=81678378367\">Gordon's House of Fine Eats\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>The Favorites\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nDrysdale has lived in the Homestead Valley area of Mill Valley for years, with his wife Susie, and two pre-teen sons, Miles, and Monroe. The Rochester, New York native describes the area as \"old timey and cool, very Kerouac-ish.\" He admits that he likes to dine out with the family when he has a day off, but given the chance, \"I'd probably go to Benu tonight if I could, like everyone else.\" The chef has visited \u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/royal-thai-restaurant-san-rafael\">Royal Thai Restaurant\u003c/a> in San Rafael at least 900 times in the past twenty years, and he orders the same three dishes each visit. \"Tofu with spicy green beans and basil; wheat gluten with potato and yellow curry; and ground pork with lime and chili. My older son, Miles gets his own order of the ground pork dish, and Monroe digs into the chicken satay.\" This restaurant gets the highest praise from Drysdale, who said, \"it's the most consistent restaurant I've eaten anywhere. In my life.' \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003ca href=\"http://www.yelp.com/biz/cactus-cafe-mill-valley\">Cactus Café\u003c/a> in Mill Valley is where Drysdale likes to eat a house salad with \"what tastes like a marjoram laced dressing, very interesting. It comes with a quesadilla, and is very simple. For a son of authentic British stock, this is very easy to take.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drysdale deadpans, \"We're always looking for some variation on the theme of white for Monroe: pasta, pizza, and French fries.\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.mamacitasf.com/\">Mamacita\u003c/a> in the Marina keeps his sons happy, where carnitas tacos with guacamole grace the table. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Special Occasions, Sweets\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nFor his wedding anniversary in October, Drysdale and Susie go to \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa\u003c/a>. Chef David Kinch’s food is \"lighter, with more 'unexpected' going on. And the sommelier does the most amazing wine pairings with the food. It's a raw deal that Manresa only has one Michelin star.\" The two also trek to \u003ca href=\"http://www.powellsss.com/go/index.cfm\">Powell's Sweet Shoppe\u003c/a> in Los Gatos, to buy sweet treats for their sons in a store that \"has almost an Eisenhower feel to it.' \u003ca href=\"http://www.miettecakes.com/\">Miette\u003c/a> in the Ferry Building is another go-to for the sweet fixes. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"If I every have another New Year's Eve free, I'd spend it at \u003ca href=\"http://www.bixrestaurant.com/\">Bix\u003c/a>\" where he was the opening chef for the Doug Biederbeck-Real Restaurant Gold Coast spot. He and Susie spent many a memorable night there, and \"it's flat out magical, and hard to beat expectations here. Doug Biederbeck really draws it out on New Year's.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Produce and The Big Mac\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nThe \u003ca href=\"http://www.agriculturalinstitute.org/index/getMarketDetails?type=Markets&id=20080805091943.active\">Marin Farmers Market\u003c/a> is \"for my money, the one to beat,\" said Drysdale. \"There's some charm to the Ferry Plaza... a lot of great things go on there.\" Drysdale packs a bag lunch in his car daily, with \"annoyingly healthy\" carrots, celery, and apples. \"But in that bag, there's always chocolate,\" he said. \"I am a recent devotee and passionate fan of \u003ca href=\"http://www.tcho.com/\">TCHO\u003c/a>.\" Chocolate is a guilty pleasure, and once a year, he and Susie have a ritual Big Mac with extra pickles from McDonald's. Adding pickles \"makes sure they are making it right then and there, right.\" Still, \"I may never do it again,\" and am loathe to admit it is an item he consumes, even once a year.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Chefs & Cookbooks That Inspire\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\"I am a lifelong, ardent and passionate believer in \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2010/08/03/scouting-alice-waters-bay-area-eats/\">Alice Waters\u003c/a>. Of course I am,\" said Drysdale, adding, \"Who isn't?\" He loves the \u003ca href=\"http://www.chezpanisse.com/intro.php\">Chez Panisse Café\u003c/a>, and the simple pleasure one gets there, that \"you can't get anywhere else. A perfect peach, lightly chilled. Some may deter, but I love a perfect peach sometimes. The \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Chez-Panisse-Cookbook-Alice-Waters/dp/0060175834\">Chez Panisse Café cookbook\u003c/a> is wonderful, and I can't wait for the December-January run of steelhead to do steelhead roe.\" \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drysdale has been using \u003ca href=\"http://www.ciachef.edu/admissions/spotlight/spotlight.asp?iSpotID=450\">Jasper White's\u003c/a> Cooking from New England cookbook for twenty-five years, and also loves the books and restaurants of \u003ca href=\"http://www.mariobatali.com/\">Mario Batali\u003c/a>. \u003ca href=\"http://www.paula-wolfert.com/\">Paula Wolfert\u003c/a> is another favorite resource, for her \"cool, weird recipes that make me go 'Huh, wow, okay.\"' \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/16758/secrets-from-a-chef-cafe-des-amiss-gordon-drysdale","authors":["5092"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1807","bayareabites_90"],"tags":["bayareabites_234","bayareabites_8371","bayareabites_8372","bayareabites_3997","bayareabites_956"],"label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_7076":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_7076","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"7076","score":null,"sort":[1254233856000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"dude-food","title":"Dude Food","publishDate":1254233856,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/dudechefs500.jpg\" alt=\"dude chefs - Anthony Bourdain, Jamie Oliver, Bobby Flay\" title=\"dude chefs - Anthony Bourdain, Jamie Oliver, Bobby Flay\" width=\"500\" height=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7095\">\u003cbr>\nI suppose we can thank Anthony Bourdain for the stereotype of the wild man chef. In \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Kitchen-Confidential-Adventures-Culinary-Underbelly/dp/0060934913\">Kitchen Confidential\u003c/a>, his descriptions of \"whacked-out moral degenerates, dope fiends, refugees...and psychopaths\" haphazardly gobbling substances and screwing on flour sacks between shifts made cooking in a restaurant kitchen seem like both the worst and best job imaginable. He romanticized the depraved hangover-to-hangover existence of a clock-punching turner-and-burner even as he cast his world in a hyper-realistic light, widely disseminating a broad colorful portrait of the journeyman chef, specifically a male one, that quickly congealed in the public mind. He popularized an archetype young chefs may even aspire to emulate -- like fledgling rock singers copping Jagger's pout and other well-traveled performance tropes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In July 2009, Lev Grossman wrote of Bourdain in Time:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp> \"It was invisible then. Now we recognize it right away: this is Anthony Bourdain's world...He changed our whole cultural idea of what a kitchen is. Pre-Bourdain, it was a warm, cozy, maternal place. Now it's a profane, brutal, masculine crucible, where human frailty is rendered away like so much tasty bacon fat.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Of course, Kitchen Confidential didn't tell chefs anything they didn't already know. I also doubt the book would have been such a sensation had it not arrived at a time when cooking and eating were becoming popular fodder for entertainment on the Food Network, and chefs were more and more in the public eye. Today, celebrity chefs are brands -- swollen, polished amplifications of the managerial personalities they cultivated actually manning kitchens. I'm not trying to write a college paper here, but I have noticed (as have many others) that nearly all of the high-profile celebrity chefs are men. While female Food Network hosts -- like Rachael, Giada, and the newly minted \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnetwork.com/ten-dollar-dinners-with-melissa-darabian/index.html\">Melissa\u003c/a>-- focus on saving time, shopping frugally, and feeding families -- clear extensions of the domestic arena -- male celebrity chefs focus on the craft itself, food for its own sake, cooking as an endless array of skills to acquire and adventures on which to embark in the carrying on of tradition and technique. They can approach food from an intellectual perspective. You learn about salumi. You study pizza. You get your education one cream-laden sauce at a time. You come of age in a French kitchen helmed by a venomous, insult-spewing maniac. You soak up abuse like a crostini, work awful hours, and get paid little to no money, but it's what you expect -- because you're an apprentice. You have to be man enough to take it. Some day, you'll be an executive chef yourself, and you'll have your own cadre of serfs to kick around. Until then, you mince onions and practice cursing. While women obviously pass through similar rites of passage in kitchens all over the world, in the realm of food entertainment, they're relegated to clipping coupons, dumbing down complicated dishes to satisfy some producer's market-tested vision of the American housewife, and attracting no shortage of she-can't-really-cook mockery from their male counterparts. Older female celebrity chefs -- like \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lidia_Bastianich\">Lidia Bastianich\u003c/a>, for example -- are motherly and comforting. They learned to cook from their mothers, and that's what they're sharing with you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everything on television is deliberately orchestrated, of course, but many of the common signifiers of male chefness -- the cursing, the drinking, the fighting, the screaming, the preoccupation with large pieces of meat -- whether expressed on camera, in memoirs, or reputation via third-person anecdotes -- endow a traditionally feminine role with coarse, conventionally masculine trappings. Producers want men to feel safe watching their shows. They don't want the women to appear shrill, unattractive, bossy, or otherwise threatening, or for the men in aprons to come off as effete. Over the course of six seasons of Bravo's \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Top_Chef\">Top Chef\u003c/a>, some of the show's most reviled male contestants have been wheedling, effeminate men. Likewise, when Padma Lakshmi, host of Top Chef, did \u003ca href=\"http://www.pilotguides.com/tv_shows/planet_food/food_guides/spain/index.php\">a tour of Spain\u003c/a> for the Food Network way back in early 2000s, she was not tripping around, Bourdain-like, shit-faced on sherry, taking bullfighting lessons, making subtle references to gastrointestinal distress. Instead, cameras zoomed in again and again as she slowly lowered strips of fine jamon into her mouth, oohing and cooing, her face bathed in a soft, warm lamp-lit glow. In one segment, she rode a horse, in another, a donkey. She did go to a bullfight, which the bull managed to win against all odds. Relieved, Lakshmi repaired to a nearby restaurant, where she ate the balls of one of the victorious bull's less fortunate comrades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Men who have become famous cooking and eating in the public eye go out of their way to project a masculine image, and their carefully constructed personalities stud every crevice of the machismo spectrum. Ginger-coiffed Bobby Flay, proprietor of what \u003ca href=\"http://newyork.grubstreet.com/2009/09/the_20_biggest_chef_empires.html\">Grub Street\u003c/a> deems the 13th largest chef empire, is a wise-talking Jersey dude. He's richer than an oil tycoon but he has real friends. How do you know? They come over to his modest-seeming house for sausage party cook-outs. Sometimes, when he's smirking his way through a Throwdown episode, he looks like guys I've seen at bars late at night, red-faced, a little sweaty, leering at ladies between shots of Patron. 8th on Grub Street's list, Mario Batali, corpulent, jolly, and orange-clogged, is renowned for Falstaffian excesses. With his Tourettic interjecting of idiotic catch phrases, Emeril Lagasse, locked with Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Nobu Matsuhisa for #5 through #7, strikes me as a man who always speaks louder than he has to. With his Stray Cats-meets-Swingers-in-the-back-of-a-Sunglass Hut shtick, Guy Fieri apparently wowed audience members at this year's Great American Food and Music Festival in Mountain View with what Bay Area Bites contributor Stephanie Im \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/guy-fieri/\">called a \"highly entertaining blowout performance complete with loud rock n'roll, gratuitous hot chicks on stage, big machinery, power tools, and pyrotechnics.\"\u003c/a> The owner of 27 restaurants around the world, Gordon Ramsey has \u003ca href=\"http://www.nypost.com/p/news/regional/ramsay_goose_getting_cooked_eKfNCXnMiUG9tHyZnSf4xO\">bounced over some financial ruts lately\u003c/a>, but Grub Street still has him in the #1 slot. His shows are crude spectacles of theater \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antonin_Artaud\">Artaud\u003c/a>, would find unwatchable. Ramsey berates chefs, spits food on the floor, and picks fights. Off-screen, he's compulsively disrespectful, \u003ca href=\"http://www.lesbilicious.co.uk/tv-film/gordon-ramsay-offensive-to-every-australian-woman/\">particularly towards women\u003c/a>. Bourdain? Well, he doesn't actually cook much anymore, but he drinks a lot on No Reservations and makes a point of eating anything put in front of him, regardless of how strange or off-putting it may be. When he's not going shooting with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/09/21/kill-it-and-grill-it/\">Ted Nugent\u003c/a>, he's a culturally sensitive daredevil -- an Evel Knievel of antacid-defying degustation. I can eat this gigantic sandwich, these bulbous eyeballs, and this disgusting warthog anus, he seems to say -- could you? When he and Eric Ripert venture back into the Les Halles kitchen to char beef and sauce sole for \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vKQoezAk4I\">Season Four's \"Into the Fire\" episode\u003c/a>, they're in the war zone, brothers sloshing through the trenches, dunking freedom fries in spitting oil and hustling out steak au poivre as the foes -- the diners -- descend in overwhelming numbers. Interestingly, Jamie Oliver, who on several occasions has been the target of Bourdain's bullying, was the subject of a 2003 academic article published in the International Journal of Cultural Studies: \"Oliver's Twist: Leisure, Labor, and Domestic Masculinity in The Naked Chef\". The writer, Joanne Hollows of Nottingham Trent University in England, frames Oliver as a construction of the masculine domestic cook. According to Hollows, in his professional capacity, Oliver avoids associating cooking with labor; instead, it's a fun, leisurely, and \"recognizably manly\" activity. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You'll never see a man on a cooking show gasping and groaning over the way something tastes -- over-sensualizing their pleasure from food. \"Oh that's serious,\" Bourdain will say, wiping some beastly innards off his face, taking a swig of Heineken. Emeril and Fieri will bark as if they're at a ball game. Batali will explain why something is good, rather than simply express how happy he is to eat it. Some kinds of cooking -- grilling, artisanal curing, brawny offal-centric preparations -- tend to have hyper-masculine devotees. Molecular gastronomy -- food science, art, and fantasy in a delicious jumble -- is safe too -- because it's so dramatically removed from the drudgery of home-cooking. Every now and then, you see a gentle man cooking on television, and the effect is jarring. In March, celebrated \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa chef David Kinch\u003c/a> schooled Bobby Flay on Iron Chef. Even though his restaurant is a destination, the soft-spoken and terroir-enthused Kinch will never have product tie-ins -- commercial mayonnaise, kitchen gear, spice rubs, etc -- on Flay's level -- even in the unlikely event he wanted to in the first place. He'd rather build \"tide-pools\" of fresh shellfish and sea beans languishing in dashi-laced green tomato broth and go surfing in his spare time. One of my favorite cooking shows was \u003ca href=\"http://www.charlietrotters.com/\">Charlie Trotter\u003c/a>'s original Kitchen Sessions on PBS in the late 1990s. Amid a loose jazz soundtrack, Trotter very softly presented his thesis: cooking is a cycle of improvisations where time-tested techniques meet endlessly changing circumstances and opportunities for adjustment. The food was high-concept, challenging but within reach. As a host, he was a soothing presence -- murmuring vaguely poetic asides, often looking away from the camera, frequently indulging in tangential digressions appropriate to his show's statement of purpose. Trotter has been very successful, but his show, at least in that incarnation, didn't last more than a year or two. Ironically, Trotter actually made a cameo in the 1997 movie \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0119738/\">My Best Friend's Wedding\u003c/a>, in which he convincingly played the stereotype of a blustery chef, bellowing at an assistant: \"I will kill your whole family if you don't get this right!\" It's a better joke now, twelve years later.\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Everything on television is deliberately orchestrated, of course, but many of the common signifiers of male chefness -- the cursing, the drinking, the fighting, the screaming, the preoccupation with large pieces of meat -- whether expressed on camera, in memoirs, or reputation via third-person anecdotes -- endow a traditionally feminine role with coarse, conventionally masculine trappings. Producers want men to feel safe watching their shows. ","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1528485069,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":9,"wordCount":1688},"headData":{"title":"Dude Food | KQED","description":"Everything on television is deliberately orchestrated, of course, but many of the common signifiers of male chefness -- the cursing, the drinking, the fighting, the screaming, the preoccupation with large pieces of meat -- whether expressed on camera, in memoirs, or reputation via third-person anecdotes -- endow a traditionally feminine role with coarse, conventionally masculine trappings. Producers want men to feel safe watching their shows. ","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"7076 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=7076","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2009/09/29/dude-food/","disqusTitle":"Dude Food","path":"/bayareabites/7076/dude-food","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2009/09/dudechefs500.jpg\" alt=\"dude chefs - Anthony Bourdain, Jamie Oliver, Bobby Flay\" title=\"dude chefs - Anthony Bourdain, Jamie Oliver, Bobby Flay\" width=\"500\" height=\"200\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-7095\">\u003cbr>\nI suppose we can thank Anthony Bourdain for the stereotype of the wild man chef. In \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Kitchen-Confidential-Adventures-Culinary-Underbelly/dp/0060934913\">Kitchen Confidential\u003c/a>, his descriptions of \"whacked-out moral degenerates, dope fiends, refugees...and psychopaths\" haphazardly gobbling substances and screwing on flour sacks between shifts made cooking in a restaurant kitchen seem like both the worst and best job imaginable. He romanticized the depraved hangover-to-hangover existence of a clock-punching turner-and-burner even as he cast his world in a hyper-realistic light, widely disseminating a broad colorful portrait of the journeyman chef, specifically a male one, that quickly congealed in the public mind. He popularized an archetype young chefs may even aspire to emulate -- like fledgling rock singers copping Jagger's pout and other well-traveled performance tropes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In July 2009, Lev Grossman wrote of Bourdain in Time:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp> \"It was invisible then. Now we recognize it right away: this is Anthony Bourdain's world...He changed our whole cultural idea of what a kitchen is. Pre-Bourdain, it was a warm, cozy, maternal place. Now it's a profane, brutal, masculine crucible, where human frailty is rendered away like so much tasty bacon fat.\"\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Of course, Kitchen Confidential didn't tell chefs anything they didn't already know. I also doubt the book would have been such a sensation had it not arrived at a time when cooking and eating were becoming popular fodder for entertainment on the Food Network, and chefs were more and more in the public eye. Today, celebrity chefs are brands -- swollen, polished amplifications of the managerial personalities they cultivated actually manning kitchens. I'm not trying to write a college paper here, but I have noticed (as have many others) that nearly all of the high-profile celebrity chefs are men. While female Food Network hosts -- like Rachael, Giada, and the newly minted \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodnetwork.com/ten-dollar-dinners-with-melissa-darabian/index.html\">Melissa\u003c/a>-- focus on saving time, shopping frugally, and feeding families -- clear extensions of the domestic arena -- male celebrity chefs focus on the craft itself, food for its own sake, cooking as an endless array of skills to acquire and adventures on which to embark in the carrying on of tradition and technique. They can approach food from an intellectual perspective. You learn about salumi. You study pizza. You get your education one cream-laden sauce at a time. You come of age in a French kitchen helmed by a venomous, insult-spewing maniac. You soak up abuse like a crostini, work awful hours, and get paid little to no money, but it's what you expect -- because you're an apprentice. You have to be man enough to take it. Some day, you'll be an executive chef yourself, and you'll have your own cadre of serfs to kick around. Until then, you mince onions and practice cursing. While women obviously pass through similar rites of passage in kitchens all over the world, in the realm of food entertainment, they're relegated to clipping coupons, dumbing down complicated dishes to satisfy some producer's market-tested vision of the American housewife, and attracting no shortage of she-can't-really-cook mockery from their male counterparts. Older female celebrity chefs -- like \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lidia_Bastianich\">Lidia Bastianich\u003c/a>, for example -- are motherly and comforting. They learned to cook from their mothers, and that's what they're sharing with you.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Everything on television is deliberately orchestrated, of course, but many of the common signifiers of male chefness -- the cursing, the drinking, the fighting, the screaming, the preoccupation with large pieces of meat -- whether expressed on camera, in memoirs, or reputation via third-person anecdotes -- endow a traditionally feminine role with coarse, conventionally masculine trappings. Producers want men to feel safe watching their shows. They don't want the women to appear shrill, unattractive, bossy, or otherwise threatening, or for the men in aprons to come off as effete. Over the course of six seasons of Bravo's \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Top_Chef\">Top Chef\u003c/a>, some of the show's most reviled male contestants have been wheedling, effeminate men. Likewise, when Padma Lakshmi, host of Top Chef, did \u003ca href=\"http://www.pilotguides.com/tv_shows/planet_food/food_guides/spain/index.php\">a tour of Spain\u003c/a> for the Food Network way back in early 2000s, she was not tripping around, Bourdain-like, shit-faced on sherry, taking bullfighting lessons, making subtle references to gastrointestinal distress. Instead, cameras zoomed in again and again as she slowly lowered strips of fine jamon into her mouth, oohing and cooing, her face bathed in a soft, warm lamp-lit glow. In one segment, she rode a horse, in another, a donkey. She did go to a bullfight, which the bull managed to win against all odds. Relieved, Lakshmi repaired to a nearby restaurant, where she ate the balls of one of the victorious bull's less fortunate comrades.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Men who have become famous cooking and eating in the public eye go out of their way to project a masculine image, and their carefully constructed personalities stud every crevice of the machismo spectrum. Ginger-coiffed Bobby Flay, proprietor of what \u003ca href=\"http://newyork.grubstreet.com/2009/09/the_20_biggest_chef_empires.html\">Grub Street\u003c/a> deems the 13th largest chef empire, is a wise-talking Jersey dude. He's richer than an oil tycoon but he has real friends. How do you know? They come over to his modest-seeming house for sausage party cook-outs. Sometimes, when he's smirking his way through a Throwdown episode, he looks like guys I've seen at bars late at night, red-faced, a little sweaty, leering at ladies between shots of Patron. 8th on Grub Street's list, Mario Batali, corpulent, jolly, and orange-clogged, is renowned for Falstaffian excesses. With his Tourettic interjecting of idiotic catch phrases, Emeril Lagasse, locked with Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Nobu Matsuhisa for #5 through #7, strikes me as a man who always speaks louder than he has to. With his Stray Cats-meets-Swingers-in-the-back-of-a-Sunglass Hut shtick, Guy Fieri apparently wowed audience members at this year's Great American Food and Music Festival in Mountain View with what Bay Area Bites contributor Stephanie Im \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/tag/guy-fieri/\">called a \"highly entertaining blowout performance complete with loud rock n'roll, gratuitous hot chicks on stage, big machinery, power tools, and pyrotechnics.\"\u003c/a> The owner of 27 restaurants around the world, Gordon Ramsey has \u003ca href=\"http://www.nypost.com/p/news/regional/ramsay_goose_getting_cooked_eKfNCXnMiUG9tHyZnSf4xO\">bounced over some financial ruts lately\u003c/a>, but Grub Street still has him in the #1 slot. His shows are crude spectacles of theater \u003ca href=\"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antonin_Artaud\">Artaud\u003c/a>, would find unwatchable. Ramsey berates chefs, spits food on the floor, and picks fights. Off-screen, he's compulsively disrespectful, \u003ca href=\"http://www.lesbilicious.co.uk/tv-film/gordon-ramsay-offensive-to-every-australian-woman/\">particularly towards women\u003c/a>. Bourdain? Well, he doesn't actually cook much anymore, but he drinks a lot on No Reservations and makes a point of eating anything put in front of him, regardless of how strange or off-putting it may be. When he's not going shooting with \u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2007/09/21/kill-it-and-grill-it/\">Ted Nugent\u003c/a>, he's a culturally sensitive daredevil -- an Evel Knievel of antacid-defying degustation. I can eat this gigantic sandwich, these bulbous eyeballs, and this disgusting warthog anus, he seems to say -- could you? When he and Eric Ripert venture back into the Les Halles kitchen to char beef and sauce sole for \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vKQoezAk4I\">Season Four's \"Into the Fire\" episode\u003c/a>, they're in the war zone, brothers sloshing through the trenches, dunking freedom fries in spitting oil and hustling out steak au poivre as the foes -- the diners -- descend in overwhelming numbers. Interestingly, Jamie Oliver, who on several occasions has been the target of Bourdain's bullying, was the subject of a 2003 academic article published in the International Journal of Cultural Studies: \"Oliver's Twist: Leisure, Labor, and Domestic Masculinity in The Naked Chef\". The writer, Joanne Hollows of Nottingham Trent University in England, frames Oliver as a construction of the masculine domestic cook. According to Hollows, in his professional capacity, Oliver avoids associating cooking with labor; instead, it's a fun, leisurely, and \"recognizably manly\" activity. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You'll never see a man on a cooking show gasping and groaning over the way something tastes -- over-sensualizing their pleasure from food. \"Oh that's serious,\" Bourdain will say, wiping some beastly innards off his face, taking a swig of Heineken. Emeril and Fieri will bark as if they're at a ball game. Batali will explain why something is good, rather than simply express how happy he is to eat it. Some kinds of cooking -- grilling, artisanal curing, brawny offal-centric preparations -- tend to have hyper-masculine devotees. Molecular gastronomy -- food science, art, and fantasy in a delicious jumble -- is safe too -- because it's so dramatically removed from the drudgery of home-cooking. Every now and then, you see a gentle man cooking on television, and the effect is jarring. In March, celebrated \u003ca href=\"http://www.manresarestaurant.com/\">Manresa chef David Kinch\u003c/a> schooled Bobby Flay on Iron Chef. Even though his restaurant is a destination, the soft-spoken and terroir-enthused Kinch will never have product tie-ins -- commercial mayonnaise, kitchen gear, spice rubs, etc -- on Flay's level -- even in the unlikely event he wanted to in the first place. He'd rather build \"tide-pools\" of fresh shellfish and sea beans languishing in dashi-laced green tomato broth and go surfing in his spare time. One of my favorite cooking shows was \u003ca href=\"http://www.charlietrotters.com/\">Charlie Trotter\u003c/a>'s original Kitchen Sessions on PBS in the late 1990s. Amid a loose jazz soundtrack, Trotter very softly presented his thesis: cooking is a cycle of improvisations where time-tested techniques meet endlessly changing circumstances and opportunities for adjustment. The food was high-concept, challenging but within reach. As a host, he was a soothing presence -- murmuring vaguely poetic asides, often looking away from the camera, frequently indulging in tangential digressions appropriate to his show's statement of purpose. Trotter has been very successful, but his show, at least in that incarnation, didn't last more than a year or two. Ironically, Trotter actually made a cameo in the 1997 movie \u003ca href=\"http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0119738/\">My Best Friend's Wedding\u003c/a>, in which he convincingly played the stereotype of a blustery chef, bellowing at an assistant: \"I will kill your whole family if you don't get this right!\" It's a better joke now, twelve years later.\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/7076/dude-food","authors":["5060"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_1593"],"tags":["bayareabites_2213","bayareabites_2287","bayareabites_2764","bayareabites_14744","bayareabites_2763","bayareabites_2761","bayareabites_204","bayareabites_495","bayareabites_2762","bayareabites_956"],"featImg":"bayareabites_7095","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_1000":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_1000","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"1000","score":null,"sort":[1209569092000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"foreign-food-affairs","title":"Foreign Food Affairs","publishDate":1209569092,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Next Monday May 5th you can join the Cinco de Mayo crush at local Mexican restaurants, or you can meet the authors of celebrated Italian and French book on food, instead. We suggest the latter, besides, the best community celebrations will take place on the weekend, such as San Francisco \u003ca href=\"http://sfcincodemayo.com/\">Cinco de Mayo San Francisco\u003c/a> in Dolores Park on Saturday May 3rd from 10-5 or \u003ca href=\"http://www.oaklandcincodemayo.com/\">Cinco de Mayo Oakland\u003c/a> on Sunday, May 4th in Fruitvale. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>First up--Italy\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/04/mario.jpg\" alt=\"mario batali\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Join Mario Batali, celebrity chef, and television personality at Il Fornaio for lunch to celebrate the release of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0061450979/kqedorg-20\">Italian Grill\u003c/a>, which combines his passion for Italian cuisine and tasty grilled food. No ordinary backyard bbq book, it includes appetizers, flatbreads, meats, seafood and vegetables along with his signature olive oil, citrus, wine, herbs, and garlic rubs. This luncheon is at Il Fornaio Restaurant in San Francisco, with food selections from the restaurant’s own excellent menu).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What:\u003c/strong> Lunch with Mario Batali \u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cost:\u003c/strong> Tickets are $125 and include lunch and a signed copy of the book Italian Grill\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>When:\u003c/strong> Monday, May 05, 2008, 12:00 PM\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Where:\u003c/strong> Il Fornaio Restaurant, 1265 Battery Street (inside Levi Plaza), San Francisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>How:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/event_detailed.php?id=1433\">Purchase tickets online\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Next up--France\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/04/clotilde.jpg\" alt=\"clotilde.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clotilde Dusoulier the blogger behind the popular \u003ca href=\"http://chocolateandzucchini.com/\">Chocolate & Zucchini blog\u003c/a> returns to the Bay Area for a book signing. Her latest book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0767926137/kqedorg-20\">Clotilde's Edible Adventures in Paris\u003c/a> is in stores now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In her own words, \"\u003ca href=\"http://chocolateandzucchini.com/edibleadventures/\">Clotilde's Edible Adventures in Paris\u003c/a> is a window onto my Paris, this delicious stomping ground for the food enthusiast. It is the companion I wish I had for every city I visit, pointing me to the edible highlights and giving me the lowdown on the dining scene, the best food shopping haunts, and the locals' favorites.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What:\u003c/strong> Clotilde Dusoulier At Books Inc. in Opera Plaza\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cost:\u003c/strong> Free\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>When\u003c/strong>: Monday, May 5, 2008, 7 pm\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Where: \u003c/strong>Books Inc. 601 Van Ness San Francisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Why:\u003c/strong> Get a chance to meet Clotilde in person. \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":null,"status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1429838847,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":10,"wordCount":336},"headData":{"title":"Foreign Food Affairs | KQED","description":"Next Monday May 5th you can join the Cinco de Mayo crush at local Mexican restaurants, or you can meet the authors of celebrated Italian and French book on food, instead. We suggest the latter, besides, the best community celebrations will take place on the weekend, such as San Francisco Cinco de Mayo San Francisco","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":""},"disqusIdentifier":"1000 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/04/30/foreign-food-affairs/","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2008/04/30/foreign-food-affairs/","disqusTitle":"Foreign Food Affairs","path":"/bayareabites/1000/foreign-food-affairs","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Next Monday May 5th you can join the Cinco de Mayo crush at local Mexican restaurants, or you can meet the authors of celebrated Italian and French book on food, instead. We suggest the latter, besides, the best community celebrations will take place on the weekend, such as San Francisco \u003ca href=\"http://sfcincodemayo.com/\">Cinco de Mayo San Francisco\u003c/a> in Dolores Park on Saturday May 3rd from 10-5 or \u003ca href=\"http://www.oaklandcincodemayo.com/\">Cinco de Mayo Oakland\u003c/a> on Sunday, May 4th in Fruitvale. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>First up--Italy\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/04/mario.jpg\" alt=\"mario batali\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Join Mario Batali, celebrity chef, and television personality at Il Fornaio for lunch to celebrate the release of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0061450979/kqedorg-20\">Italian Grill\u003c/a>, which combines his passion for Italian cuisine and tasty grilled food. No ordinary backyard bbq book, it includes appetizers, flatbreads, meats, seafood and vegetables along with his signature olive oil, citrus, wine, herbs, and garlic rubs. This luncheon is at Il Fornaio Restaurant in San Francisco, with food selections from the restaurant’s own excellent menu).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What:\u003c/strong> Lunch with Mario Batali \u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cost:\u003c/strong> Tickets are $125 and include lunch and a signed copy of the book Italian Grill\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>When:\u003c/strong> Monday, May 05, 2008, 12:00 PM\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Where:\u003c/strong> Il Fornaio Restaurant, 1265 Battery Street (inside Levi Plaza), San Francisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>How:\u003c/strong> \u003ca href=\"http://www.bookpassage.com/event_detailed.php?id=1433\">Purchase tickets online\u003c/a> \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Next up--France\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2008/04/clotilde.jpg\" alt=\"clotilde.jpg\">\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Clotilde Dusoulier the blogger behind the popular \u003ca href=\"http://chocolateandzucchini.com/\">Chocolate & Zucchini blog\u003c/a> returns to the Bay Area for a book signing. Her latest book, \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0767926137/kqedorg-20\">Clotilde's Edible Adventures in Paris\u003c/a> is in stores now.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In her own words, \"\u003ca href=\"http://chocolateandzucchini.com/edibleadventures/\">Clotilde's Edible Adventures in Paris\u003c/a> is a window onto my Paris, this delicious stomping ground for the food enthusiast. It is the companion I wish I had for every city I visit, pointing me to the edible highlights and giving me the lowdown on the dining scene, the best food shopping haunts, and the locals' favorites.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>What:\u003c/strong> Clotilde Dusoulier At Books Inc. in Opera Plaza\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Cost:\u003c/strong> Free\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>When\u003c/strong>: Monday, May 5, 2008, 7 pm\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Where: \u003c/strong>Books Inc. 601 Van Ness San Francisco\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Why:\u003c/strong> Get a chance to meet Clotilde in person. \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/1000/foreign-food-affairs","authors":["5020"],"categories":["bayareabites_63","bayareabites_50"],"tags":["bayareabites_958","bayareabites_960","bayareabites_959","bayareabites_766","bayareabites_956","bayareabites_180"],"label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. 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Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! 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And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. 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