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Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\" width=\"1560\" height=\"1009\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81078\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sundae with hot fudge, almonds and whipped cream. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by Laura B. Weiss, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/04/30/308269627/sweet-on-sundaes\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/30/14) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#fudge\">Hot Fudge Sauce Sundaes\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#berry\">Peach Berry Sundaes With Honey\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#split\">Banana Splits\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, the weather is warming up. And that means I'm dreaming about ice cream sundaes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I was researching my book \u003cem>Ice Cream: A Global History\u003c/em>, sundaes were the ice cream treat I was most eager to learn about. For me, there's no more sumptuous dessert than the classic American combo of ice cream, toppings and whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sundaes are just a teensy bit fancy, but not so dressed up that they look out of place on a picnic table or at a barbecue. And sundaes are an easy way to flex your culinary muscle. That's because with these indulgent treats, it's the construction, not the cooking, that counts. And there's no need to fuss in the kitchen. You can prepare your own sauces and ice creams, but store-bought varieties work well, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to mixing and matching ice creams and toppings, the sky's the limit. (For me, the ice cream is an afterthought. Hit me with that topping, and lots of it, please.) Ladle hot fudge over peppermint ice cream. Drizzle honey over coconut sorbet and top it with grilled pineapple. Drop a scoop or two of chocolate ice cream into a bowl, add some brownie pieces, then crown your creation with butterscotch and whipped cream. You can also smother vanilla ice cream in berries and grilled peaches. Or for a simple but very adult dessert, pour a tablespoon of coffee-flavored liqueur over a scoop of chocolate or butter pecan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And don't forget to add some crunch. Sundaes need a bit of texture to counter all that goo and creamy richness. Crumbled cookies, nuts, even granola — anything with a snap to it — will do the trick. Then, there's the whipped cream and garnishes. You could finish your ice cream construction the traditional way with a \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=127349094\">maraschino cherry\u003c/a>. But why settle for the obvious when you can choose shaved chocolate, candy bits or crumbled bacon?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whatever ice cream and sauce combinations you elect, start building your sundae with a spoonful of sauce in the bottom of the dish. Then add ice cream, more sauce, and another scoop of ice cream. Douse the whole thing with yet more sauce. With this method, you'll be sure to taste sauce and ice cream in every bite. The exception to this rule is the banana split, in which the ingredients are laid side by side in a nest of banana halves, and the sauce is poured on top of the ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sundaes are not an American invention. The Europeans beat us to it with dishes such as the French coupe. Sundaes as Americans know them \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ice-Cream-Global-History-Reaktion/dp/1861897928\">came into being in the U.S. in the early 1890s\u003c/a>. The question of the exact locale of the sundae's birthplace has sparked fierce, but \u003ca href=\"http://inventors.about.com/od/foodrelatedinventions/a/Sundae.htm\">good-natured, civic rivalries\u003c/a>, with several American towns, including Ithaca, N.Y., Two Rivers, Wis., and Evanston, Ill., claiming to be the sundae's rightful spawning ground.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end of the day, I don't much care where sundaes originated. I just love them.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"fudge\">\u003c/a>Hot Fudge Sauce Sundaes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>There are lots of recipes for hot fudge. This one is essentially a ganache. It cooks in minutes and boasts a deep, rich chocolate flavor. You can use either semisweet chocolate or a high-quality eating chocolate. I don't add sugar to this fudge sauce because I like the contrast of bittersweet chocolate and sweet ice cream; you can add sugar if you prefer a sweeter topping.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81079\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaefudge-7ad934e3b9a1b8026b60eba71bb0e971605e80e9.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaefudge-7ad934e3b9a1b8026b60eba71bb0e971605e80e9.jpg\" alt=\"Hot Fudge Sauce Sundae. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81079\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hot Fudge Sauce Sundae. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Fudge Sauce\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>12 ounces semisweet chocolate or good-quality 70 percent chocolate bar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups heavy cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>The Sundae\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>For each serving:\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>2 scoops vanilla ice cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon coffee liqueur\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons toasted almonds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Whipped cream\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBreak the chocolate into pieces and set aside. Pour the cream into a saucepan and heat over medium; don't let it boil, or it will curdle. Turn off the heat and add the chocolate. Stir well, adding salt and butter. Return to heat on low and cook for 5 minutes, being careful not to let it boil. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla. Use the topping right away or store it in the refrigerator. To restore it after it's been in the refrigerator, stir the sauce well and reheat in the microwave for 1 minute, or until it softens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the sundaes, place a tablespoon of hot fudge in the bottom of each bowl. Place 1 scoop of vanilla ice cream on top of the fudge. Drizzle more sauce on top of the ice cream. Place a second scoop of ice cream on top. Spoon on additional sauce. Drizzle the coffee liqueur on each sundae, sprinkle with toasted almonds and top with whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"berry\">\u003c/a>Peach Berry Sundaes With Honey\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I make this sumptuous sundae in the summer when stone fruit and berries at their peak ripeness.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81080\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1674px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaefruit_wide-aa6f5bfa9c7d37ea1a7b739bbefba14f7395ccff.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaefruit_wide-aa6f5bfa9c7d37ea1a7b739bbefba14f7395ccff.jpg\" alt=\"Peach Berry Sundaes With Honey. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\" width=\"1674\" height=\"940\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81080\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Peach Berry Sundaes With Honey. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>24 shelled pistachios\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons butter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon cinnamon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 ripe peaches cut in half, pitted, peeled and cut into 1-inch slices\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 large fresh strawberries, sliced thinly\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 scoops vanilla ice cream per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup honey per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nToast the pistachios in a dry skillet for 2 minutes, being careful not to burn them. Set them aside. Place the butter, vanilla and cinnamon in a medium-sized sauté pan over medium heat. Sauté the peaches and strawberries for 3 to 4 minutes, until they begin to soften but are still firm. Remove from the pan and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place 3 scoops of vanilla ice cream in each bowl. Spoon honey, then fruit mixture onto the ice cream, and top each sundae with 6 toasted pistachios. Serve immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"split\">\u003c/a>Banana Splits\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I'm not fond of traditional banana splits with their multitude of sauces (traditionally, strawberry, pineapple, chocolate) and ice cream flavors (vanilla, chocolate and strawberry). This recipe is a luxurious, and simpler, version of the old standby. The peanut butter sauce is adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://southernfood.about.com/od/dessertsaucerecipes/r/bln151.htm\">About.com Southern Food\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Peanut Butter Sauce \u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup brown sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup light corn syrup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup smooth peanut butter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>The Split\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>For each serving:\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>1 banana split lengthwise\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 scoops chocolate ice cream per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 scoops vanilla ice cream per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Whipped cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 chocolate wafer cookie, crushed into crumbs, per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup toasted peanuts per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPlace the brown sugar, corn syrup, salt and cream in a medium saucepan and mix with a spoon or whisk over medium heat. Bring to a boil and immediately reduce heat to a simmer. Cook 4 to 5 minutes, or until the mixture starts to thicken. (Don't worry if it's still a bit runny. Once you add the peanut butter, the sauce will stiffen up.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove from the heat. Add the peanut butter and mix well with a wooden spoon. Add vanilla and mix. Pour the sauce into a bowl and set aside. If you're not going to use the sauce immediately, refrigerate it. Before serving, heat it in the microwave for 1 minute to soften.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To assemble the banana split, place one banana half on each side of the dish. Place 2 scoops of chocolate ice cream, 2 scoops of vanilla and 2 more scoops of chocolate in a line down the middle of each dish, between the banana slices. Drizzle the ice cream with the peanut butter sauce. Garnish with the whipped cream, cookie pieces and toasted nuts. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laura B. Weiss' work has appeared in \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Saveur\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Travel + Leisure\u003c/em>, and on the Food Network website. She's a contributor to Interior Design's blog and was an editor for the \u003cem>Zagat Long Island Restaurant Guide 2009-2011\u003c/em>. Laura is the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ice-Cream-Global-History-Reaktion/dp/1861897928\">Ice Cream: A Global History\u003c/a>. Follow Laura on Twitter, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Foodandthings\">@foodandthings\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"With these ice cream desserts, it's the construction, not the cooking, that counts. They're a teensy bit fancy, but not too dressed up for a picnic or a barbecue.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1398889722,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":30,"wordCount":1420},"headData":{"title":"Sweet On Sundaes | KQED","description":"With these ice cream desserts, it's the construction, not the cooking, that counts. They're a teensy bit fancy, but not too dressed up for a picnic or a barbecue.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Sweet On Sundaes","datePublished":"2014-04-30T20:28:00.000Z","dateModified":"2014-04-30T20:28:42.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"81077 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=81077","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/04/30/sweet-on-sundaes/","disqusTitle":"Sweet On Sundaes","nprByline":"Laura B. Weiss","nprStoryId":"308269627","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=308269627&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/2014/04/30/308269627/sweet-on-sundaes?ft=3&f=308269627","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 30 Apr 2014 11:07:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 30 Apr 2014 11:04:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 30 Apr 2014 11:07:51 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/81077/sweet-on-sundaes","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81078\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1560px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaemain_custom-c459ee4ff91a7c857921b40501528c95938b2b6b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaemain_custom-c459ee4ff91a7c857921b40501528c95938b2b6b.jpg\" alt=\"A sundae with hot fudge, almonds and whipped cream. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\" width=\"1560\" height=\"1009\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81078\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A sundae with hot fudge, almonds and whipped cream. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>by Laura B. Weiss, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/04/30/308269627/sweet-on-sundaes\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (4/30/14) \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#fudge\">Hot Fudge Sauce Sundaes\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#berry\">Peach Berry Sundaes With Honey\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#split\">Banana Splits\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Finally, the weather is warming up. And that means I'm dreaming about ice cream sundaes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I was researching my book \u003cem>Ice Cream: A Global History\u003c/em>, sundaes were the ice cream treat I was most eager to learn about. For me, there's no more sumptuous dessert than the classic American combo of ice cream, toppings and whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sundaes are just a teensy bit fancy, but not so dressed up that they look out of place on a picnic table or at a barbecue. And sundaes are an easy way to flex your culinary muscle. That's because with these indulgent treats, it's the construction, not the cooking, that counts. And there's no need to fuss in the kitchen. You can prepare your own sauces and ice creams, but store-bought varieties work well, too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to mixing and matching ice creams and toppings, the sky's the limit. (For me, the ice cream is an afterthought. Hit me with that topping, and lots of it, please.) Ladle hot fudge over peppermint ice cream. Drizzle honey over coconut sorbet and top it with grilled pineapple. Drop a scoop or two of chocolate ice cream into a bowl, add some brownie pieces, then crown your creation with butterscotch and whipped cream. You can also smother vanilla ice cream in berries and grilled peaches. Or for a simple but very adult dessert, pour a tablespoon of coffee-flavored liqueur over a scoop of chocolate or butter pecan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And don't forget to add some crunch. Sundaes need a bit of texture to counter all that goo and creamy richness. Crumbled cookies, nuts, even granola — anything with a snap to it — will do the trick. Then, there's the whipped cream and garnishes. You could finish your ice cream construction the traditional way with a \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=127349094\">maraschino cherry\u003c/a>. But why settle for the obvious when you can choose shaved chocolate, candy bits or crumbled bacon?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Whatever ice cream and sauce combinations you elect, start building your sundae with a spoonful of sauce in the bottom of the dish. Then add ice cream, more sauce, and another scoop of ice cream. Douse the whole thing with yet more sauce. With this method, you'll be sure to taste sauce and ice cream in every bite. The exception to this rule is the banana split, in which the ingredients are laid side by side in a nest of banana halves, and the sauce is poured on top of the ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sundaes are not an American invention. The Europeans beat us to it with dishes such as the French coupe. Sundaes as Americans know them \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ice-Cream-Global-History-Reaktion/dp/1861897928\">came into being in the U.S. in the early 1890s\u003c/a>. The question of the exact locale of the sundae's birthplace has sparked fierce, but \u003ca href=\"http://inventors.about.com/od/foodrelatedinventions/a/Sundae.htm\">good-natured, civic rivalries\u003c/a>, with several American towns, including Ithaca, N.Y., Two Rivers, Wis., and Evanston, Ill., claiming to be the sundae's rightful spawning ground.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>At the end of the day, I don't much care where sundaes originated. I just love them.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"fudge\">\u003c/a>Hot Fudge Sauce Sundaes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>There are lots of recipes for hot fudge. This one is essentially a ganache. It cooks in minutes and boasts a deep, rich chocolate flavor. You can use either semisweet chocolate or a high-quality eating chocolate. I don't add sugar to this fudge sauce because I like the contrast of bittersweet chocolate and sweet ice cream; you can add sugar if you prefer a sweeter topping.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81079\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaefudge-7ad934e3b9a1b8026b60eba71bb0e971605e80e9.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaefudge-7ad934e3b9a1b8026b60eba71bb0e971605e80e9.jpg\" alt=\"Hot Fudge Sauce Sundae. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81079\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hot Fudge Sauce Sundae. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Fudge Sauce\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>12 ounces semisweet chocolate or good-quality 70 percent chocolate bar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 1/2 cups heavy cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 tablespoons unsalted butter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>The Sundae\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>For each serving:\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>2 scoops vanilla ice cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 tablespoon coffee liqueur\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons toasted almonds\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Whipped cream\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nBreak the chocolate into pieces and set aside. Pour the cream into a saucepan and heat over medium; don't let it boil, or it will curdle. Turn off the heat and add the chocolate. Stir well, adding salt and butter. Return to heat on low and cook for 5 minutes, being careful not to let it boil. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla. Use the topping right away or store it in the refrigerator. To restore it after it's been in the refrigerator, stir the sauce well and reheat in the microwave for 1 minute, or until it softens.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the sundaes, place a tablespoon of hot fudge in the bottom of each bowl. Place 1 scoop of vanilla ice cream on top of the fudge. Drizzle more sauce on top of the ice cream. Place a second scoop of ice cream on top. Spoon on additional sauce. Drizzle the coffee liqueur on each sundae, sprinkle with toasted almonds and top with whipped cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"berry\">\u003c/a>Peach Berry Sundaes With Honey\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I make this sumptuous sundae in the summer when stone fruit and berries at their peak ripeness.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_81080\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1674px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaefruit_wide-aa6f5bfa9c7d37ea1a7b739bbefba14f7395ccff.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/04/sundaefruit_wide-aa6f5bfa9c7d37ea1a7b739bbefba14f7395ccff.jpg\" alt=\"Peach Berry Sundaes With Honey. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\" width=\"1674\" height=\"940\" class=\"size-full wp-image-81080\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Peach Berry Sundaes With Honey. Photo: Laura B. Weiss for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>24 shelled pistachios\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 tablespoons butter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 teaspoon cinnamon\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 ripe peaches cut in half, pitted, peeled and cut into 1-inch slices\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 large fresh strawberries, sliced thinly\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3 scoops vanilla ice cream per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup honey per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nToast the pistachios in a dry skillet for 2 minutes, being careful not to burn them. Set them aside. Place the butter, vanilla and cinnamon in a medium-sized sauté pan over medium heat. Sauté the peaches and strawberries for 3 to 4 minutes, until they begin to soften but are still firm. Remove from the pan and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place 3 scoops of vanilla ice cream in each bowl. Spoon honey, then fruit mixture onto the ice cream, and top each sundae with 6 toasted pistachios. Serve immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"split\">\u003c/a>Banana Splits\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I'm not fond of traditional banana splits with their multitude of sauces (traditionally, strawberry, pineapple, chocolate) and ice cream flavors (vanilla, chocolate and strawberry). This recipe is a luxurious, and simpler, version of the old standby. The peanut butter sauce is adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://southernfood.about.com/od/dessertsaucerecipes/r/bln151.htm\">About.com Southern Food\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003cem>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cul>\u003cstrong>Ingredients:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\n\u003cstrong>Peanut Butter Sauce \u003c/strong>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup brown sugar\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup light corn syrup\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/2 cup cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>3/4 cup smooth peanut butter\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cul>\n\u003cstrong>The Split\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>For each serving:\u003c/p>\n\u003cli>1 banana split lengthwise\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>4 scoops chocolate ice cream per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>2 scoops vanilla ice cream per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>Whipped cream\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1 chocolate wafer cookie, crushed into crumbs, per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003cli>1/4 cup toasted peanuts per serving\u003c/li>\n\u003c/ul>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Instructions:\u003c/strong>\u003cbr>\nPlace the brown sugar, corn syrup, salt and cream in a medium saucepan and mix with a spoon or whisk over medium heat. Bring to a boil and immediately reduce heat to a simmer. Cook 4 to 5 minutes, or until the mixture starts to thicken. (Don't worry if it's still a bit runny. Once you add the peanut butter, the sauce will stiffen up.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove from the heat. Add the peanut butter and mix well with a wooden spoon. Add vanilla and mix. Pour the sauce into a bowl and set aside. If you're not going to use the sauce immediately, refrigerate it. Before serving, heat it in the microwave for 1 minute to soften.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To assemble the banana split, place one banana half on each side of the dish. Place 2 scoops of chocolate ice cream, 2 scoops of vanilla and 2 more scoops of chocolate in a line down the middle of each dish, between the banana slices. Drizzle the ice cream with the peanut butter sauce. Garnish with the whipped cream, cookie pieces and toasted nuts. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Laura B. Weiss' work has appeared in \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Saveur\u003c/em>, \u003cem>Travel + Leisure\u003c/em>, and on the Food Network website. She's a contributor to Interior Design's blog and was an editor for the \u003cem>Zagat Long Island Restaurant Guide 2009-2011\u003c/em>. Laura is the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ice-Cream-Global-History-Reaktion/dp/1861897928\">Ice Cream: A Global History\u003c/a>. Follow Laura on Twitter, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Foodandthings\">@foodandthings\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/81077/sweet-on-sundaes","authors":["byline_bayareabites_81077"],"categories":["bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_1873"],"tags":["bayareabites_489","bayareabites_312","bayareabites_488","bayareabites_11086","bayareabites_8266"],"featImg":"bayareabites_81078","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_79041":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_79041","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"79041","score":null,"sort":[1394640544000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"spirited-sweets-for-st-patricks-or-any-day","title":"Spirited Sweets for St. Patrick's (or Any) Day","publishDate":1394640544,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cp>Post by Laura B. Weiss, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/03/12/289084832/spirited-sweets-for-st-patricks-or-any-day\" target=\"_blank\">Kitchen Window for NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/12/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#cake\">Chocolate Kahlua Bundt Cake\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#salad\">Macerated Oranges, Medjool Dates And Grapes with Slivered Almonds\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#bacon\">Beer-Candied Bacon With Thyme\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#milkshake\">Chocolate Mint Milkshake\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Saint Patrick's Day, often the first order of business is to raise a glass to the Irish with a frosty mug of green beer. You might also savor a slice of Irish soda bread, rich with raisins and caraway seeds, or tuck into a hearty dish of corned beef and cabbage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when March 17 rolls around, don't neglect the desserts. You could certainly stick to traditional offerings like shamrock-shaped cookies and emerald-tinged cupcakes. But I tire quickly of all that blazing green. I prefer to punctuate a festive meal with alcohol-infused sweets, from a decadent chocolate Bundt cake to a creamy mint milkshake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's also a bowl of oranges, grapes and dates macerated in white wine, and baked bacon \"candy\" — crisp and mahogany-hued with a glaze of beer, brown sugar, mustard and thyme.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearly any sweet creation you can think of could get a boost from a splash of spirits. In baked goods, spirits impart not only flavor but also moisture that creates a sumptuous, tender crumb. Think brownies and cakes soused with beer, or cupcakes laced with gin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alcohol provides an adult upgrade to childhood ice cream favorites such as popsicles, sundaes and floats. Add some zing to a frozen blueberry pop with an injection of vodka, jazz up a hot fudge sundae with a splash of scotch, and pep up the retro root beer float with a dash of rum or vodka.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>White and red wines marry beautifully with just about any fruit, from berries to bananas. On a cold wintry night, I'll happily sit down to a bowl of sliced pears poached in butter, honey, rum and a touch of cinnamon. Dare to be extravagant and top this dish off with a big scoop of vanilla ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Desserts made with alcohol date back to antiquity. In the ancient Roman cookbook \u003ca href=\"http://www.gutenberg.org/files/29728/29728-h/29728-h.htm\">\u003cem>Apicius\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \"sweet wine was paired with fruits as a syrup and used to flavor cakes,\" says Lynn Oliver, editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodtimeline.org/\">The Food Timeline\u003c/a>. During medieval times, liquor acted as a preservative in baked goods such as English fruitcake. In the U.S., the colonists used alcohol liberally when creating sweet dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Brandy is all over the first American cookbook by Amelia Simmons,\" writes Michael Krondl, author of \u003cem>Sweet Invention\u003c/em>: \u003cem>A History of Dessert,\u003c/em> in an email. Then during Prohibition, liquored-up desserts largely fell out of favor. Recently, though, desserts made with spirits have experienced a revival, perhaps mirroring the recent cocktails renaissance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Europeans have long embraced the idea of alcohol as an essential dessert ingredient. In Italy, there's \u003ca href=\"http://tavolatalk.com/2013/panbriacone-italys-drunken-sweet-bread/#!\">the dome-shaped Italian sweet bread, panettone\u003c/a>, injected with sweet wine or rum. The French have small rum-soaked yeast cakes, \u003cem>baba au rhum,\u003c/em> which Krondl says were probably introduced to France by a Polish king. Then there's the decadent German \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/kitchen/saveur-100-black-forest-cake\">Black Forest cake\u003c/a>, constructed from layers of chocolate sponge cake, whipped cream, sour cherries and kirsch (cherry brandy).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, does alcohol burn off when you cook or bake it? Not completely. But a cake likely retains more spirits than, say, a sauce does.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I would think that whatever alcohol is lost in baking is considerably less than what is lost when you boil or flame alcohol in cooking,\" writes Dorrie Greenspan, the author of \u003cem>Baking: From My Home to Yours\u003c/em>, in an email.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you want the flavor of spirits but not the buzz, try extracts, which contain little or no alcohol. For recipes calling for light rum, for example, the flavorings company McCormick & Co. \u003ca href=\"http://www.mccormick.com/Spices-and-Flavors/Extracts-and-Food-Colors/Extracts/Imitation-Rum-Extract\">recommends substituting\u003c/a> 1/2 teaspoon of imitation rum per tablespoon of spirit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Buzzed or not, these sweets are my standbys for St. Patrick's Day or any occasion that calls for a dramatic dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cake\">\u003c/a>Chocolate Kahlua Bundt Cake\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This cake, adapted from a 2005 \u003c/em>Gourmet\u003cem> recipe for Chocolate Whiskey Bundt Cake, is rich and delicious, and the coffee liqueur heightens the intensity of the chocolate. This cake improves in flavor if it's made at least a day ahead, and it can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Bring the cake to room temperature before serving.\u003c/em>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79042\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorcake-ebe1ae4329d4446a4ca0327b79be2aaef47daa5d.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorcake-ebe1ae4329d4446a4ca0327b79be2aaef47daa5d-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate Kahlua Bundt Cake. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-79042\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate Kahlua Bundt Cake. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 10 to 12 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (not Dutch-process) plus 3 tablespoons for dusting the pan\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 3/4 cups brewed espresso or strong coffee\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup coffee-flavored liqueur, such as Kahlua\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 sticks unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup white sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup dark brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon almond extract or vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place oven rack in the middle position and preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Butter a 10-inch Bundt pan well, then dust it with 3 tablespoons cocoa powder, knocking out the excess.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat the coffee, coffee liqueur and butter and the cup of cocoa powder in a medium saucepan over moderate heat, whisking until the butter is melted and all the ingredients are combined. Remove mixture from heat, then add white and brown sugars and whisk until dissolved, about 1 minute. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and cool for about 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the chocolate mixture cools, whisk together the flour, baking soda and salt in a bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs with almond or vanilla extract, then stir into the cooled chocolate mixture until it's combined well. Fold in the flour mixture until all of the ingredients are combined. (It will take some elbow grease to combine the ingredients; the batter will be mostly smooth, but don't be alarmed if there are a few small lumps.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour the batter into the Bundt pan and bake it until a toothpick or skewer inserted in the center comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes. Watch the cake closely. It goes quickly from moist to overbaked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cool the cake completely in the pan for an hour. Loosen the cake from the pan using the tip of a small knife, then invert the rack over the pan and turn the cake out onto the rack. Cool the cake on the rack for another hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dust the cake with powdered sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"salad\">\u003c/a>Macerated Oranges, Medjool Dates And Grapes with Slivered Almonds\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Though I trembled at the thought of tinkering with a recipe by the iconic Italian cookbook writer Marcella Hazan, tinker I did. Her recipe for \u003c/em>\u003cem>Macerated Oranges and Grapes with Toasted Slivered Almonds from \u003c/em>The Classic Italian Cookbook\u003cem>, called for orange liqueur but I liked the lighter taste imparted by white wine. I also added \u003c/em>\u003cem>dates and nuts for color and texture.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79043\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorfruitsalad-2f3934598e1a4f34da197628ebed4cbec2f80d0c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorfruitsalad-2f3934598e1a4f34da197628ebed4cbec2f80d0c-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Macerated Oranges, Medjool Dates And Grapes with Slivered Almonds. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-79043\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Macerated Oranges, Medjool Dates And Grapes with Slivered Almonds. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 to 8 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 navel oranges, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 small bunch of grapes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 Medjool dates, cut in half vertically, pitted then cut into quarters\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grated peel of 1 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 1/2 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup white wine\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon vanilla\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons slivered almonds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a sharp knife, cut off the ends of the oranges and peel them. Remove as much of the pith as possible, being careful not to cut into the flesh of the orange. Cut the orange in half, then into quarters. Cut the quarters into 1/2-inch slices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the oranges, grapes and dates into a bowl. Using a zester or the finest teeth on a box grater, grate the lemon peel into the bowl. Add the lemon juice. Add the wine and the vanilla. Toss the fruit salad gently, cover it and place it in the refrigerator for at least an hour. When you're ready to serve the fruit, toss it again to distribute the juices and sprinkle the salad with the slivered almonds. The salad keeps in the refrigerator for up to a day.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"bacon\">\u003c/a>Beer-Candied Bacon With Thyme\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>If you love candy and you love bacon, you'll love this bacon candy, which I adapted from a recipe from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thekitchn.com/\">theKitchn\u003c/a> via the food blog \u003ca href=\"http://tideandthyme.com/\">Tide and Thyme\u003c/a>. The addition of thyme cuts the sweetness of the bacon and imparts a bit of adult polish. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79044\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorbacon-c29dd465a5893165e7a99e8c9fac67029840839a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorbacon-c29dd465a5893165e7a99e8c9fac67029840839a-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Beer-Candied Bacon With Thyme. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-79044\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beer-Candied Bacon With Thyme. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup dark beer\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch cayenne\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound thick cut, high-quality bacon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Combine the brown sugar, beer, mustard and cayenne in a small bowl, whisking well to form a thin syrup. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Place a wire cooling rack on top of the baking sheet. Place the pieces of bacon on top of the rack, with enough space between them so they don't overlap. Brush one side of each bacon strip with the beer syrup. Place the sheet in the oven and cook for 8 to10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the bacon from the oven, turn over the strips of bacon and brush them with the beer syrup. Return the bacon to the oven and cook it for another 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the bacon from the oven and sprinkle it with thyme. Repeat the process once or twice more, watching to make sure the bacon doesn't burn, until it's crispy and browned and you've used all of the glaze.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the bacon to a wire rack to cool for at least 1 hour before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"milkshake\">\u003c/a>Chocolate Mint Milkshake\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>In this recipe, which is adapted from a drink called \"The Captain Reid's Milkshake\" in Warren Bobrow's \u003c/em>Apothecary Cocktails: Restorative Drinks from Yesterday and Today\u003cem>, mint liqueur and chocolate ice cream combine into a rich milkshake. This shake is thinner than the typical milkshake; if you prefer thicker shakes, reduce the amount of milk and adjust the mint liqueur to your taste. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79045\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 768px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquormilkshake_custom-d179474970e7102b8e0ccf49f7f6e41cbe3cc4f2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquormilkshake_custom-d179474970e7102b8e0ccf49f7f6e41cbe3cc4f2-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate Mint Milkshake. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-large wp-image-79045\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate Mint Milkshake. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 ounces root beer, preferably craft-style\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 ounce mint liqueur\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 scoops rich, deep chocolate gelato or ice cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon colored sprinkles for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of fleur du sel\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a blender, blend all of the ingredients except the sprinkles and salt until smooth. Pour into glasses and top each serving with sprinkles and fleur du sel. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>About the Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Laura B. Weiss' work has appeared in numerous national publications, including \u003cem>The New York Times,\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/Kitchen/History-New-England-Indian-Pudding\">Saveur\u003c/a>,\u003cem> Travel + Leisure, \u003c/em>and on the Food Network website. She's a contributor to \u003ca href=\"http://designwire.interiordesign.net/events/15485/young-chinese-designers-make-western-debut\">Interior Design\u003c/a>\u003cem>'s\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>blog\u003cem> \u003c/em>and\u003cem> \u003c/em>was an editor for the \u003cem>Zagat Long Island Restaurant Guide\u003c/em> \u003cem>2009-2011. \u003c/em>Laura is the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ice-Cream-Global-History-Reaktion/dp/1861897928\">Ice Cream: A Global History\u003c/a>. Follow Laura on Twitter, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Foodandthings\" target=\"_blank\">@foodandthings\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"The typical green-themed cookie or cupcake is no match for these alcohol-infused treats. Celebrate with Kahlua cake, a mint-liqueur milkshake, wine-soaked fruit salad or beer-glazed bacon candy.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1394642601,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":71,"wordCount":1854},"headData":{"title":"Spirited Sweets for St. Patrick's (or Any) Day | KQED","description":"The typical green-themed cookie or cupcake is no match for these alcohol-infused treats. Celebrate with Kahlua cake, a mint-liqueur milkshake, wine-soaked fruit salad or beer-glazed bacon candy.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Spirited Sweets for St. Patrick's (or Any) Day","datePublished":"2014-03-12T16:09:04.000Z","dateModified":"2014-03-12T16:43:21.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"79041 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=79041","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/03/12/spirited-sweets-for-st-patricks-or-any-day/","disqusTitle":"Spirited Sweets for St. Patrick's (or Any) Day","nprByline":"Laura B. Weiss","nprStoryId":"289084832","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=289084832&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/2014/03/12/289084832/spirited-sweets-for-st-patricks-or-any-day?ft=3&f=289084832","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 12 Mar 2014 08:37:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 12 Mar 2014 08:05:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 12 Mar 2014 08:37:45 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/79041/spirited-sweets-for-st-patricks-or-any-day","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cp>Post by Laura B. Weiss, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/03/12/289084832/spirited-sweets-for-st-patricks-or-any-day\" target=\"_blank\">Kitchen Window for NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/12/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#cake\">Chocolate Kahlua Bundt Cake\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#salad\">Macerated Oranges, Medjool Dates And Grapes with Slivered Almonds\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#bacon\">Beer-Candied Bacon With Thyme\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#milkshake\">Chocolate Mint Milkshake\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On Saint Patrick's Day, often the first order of business is to raise a glass to the Irish with a frosty mug of green beer. You might also savor a slice of Irish soda bread, rich with raisins and caraway seeds, or tuck into a hearty dish of corned beef and cabbage.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But when March 17 rolls around, don't neglect the desserts. You could certainly stick to traditional offerings like shamrock-shaped cookies and emerald-tinged cupcakes. But I tire quickly of all that blazing green. I prefer to punctuate a festive meal with alcohol-infused sweets, from a decadent chocolate Bundt cake to a creamy mint milkshake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>There's also a bowl of oranges, grapes and dates macerated in white wine, and baked bacon \"candy\" — crisp and mahogany-hued with a glaze of beer, brown sugar, mustard and thyme.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Nearly any sweet creation you can think of could get a boost from a splash of spirits. In baked goods, spirits impart not only flavor but also moisture that creates a sumptuous, tender crumb. Think brownies and cakes soused with beer, or cupcakes laced with gin.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alcohol provides an adult upgrade to childhood ice cream favorites such as popsicles, sundaes and floats. Add some zing to a frozen blueberry pop with an injection of vodka, jazz up a hot fudge sundae with a splash of scotch, and pep up the retro root beer float with a dash of rum or vodka.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>White and red wines marry beautifully with just about any fruit, from berries to bananas. On a cold wintry night, I'll happily sit down to a bowl of sliced pears poached in butter, honey, rum and a touch of cinnamon. Dare to be extravagant and top this dish off with a big scoop of vanilla ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Desserts made with alcohol date back to antiquity. In the ancient Roman cookbook \u003ca href=\"http://www.gutenberg.org/files/29728/29728-h/29728-h.htm\">\u003cem>Apicius\u003c/em>\u003c/a>, \"sweet wine was paired with fruits as a syrup and used to flavor cakes,\" says Lynn Oliver, editor of \u003ca href=\"http://www.foodtimeline.org/\">The Food Timeline\u003c/a>. During medieval times, liquor acted as a preservative in baked goods such as English fruitcake. In the U.S., the colonists used alcohol liberally when creating sweet dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"Brandy is all over the first American cookbook by Amelia Simmons,\" writes Michael Krondl, author of \u003cem>Sweet Invention\u003c/em>: \u003cem>A History of Dessert,\u003c/em> in an email. Then during Prohibition, liquored-up desserts largely fell out of favor. Recently, though, desserts made with spirits have experienced a revival, perhaps mirroring the recent cocktails renaissance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, Europeans have long embraced the idea of alcohol as an essential dessert ingredient. In Italy, there's \u003ca href=\"http://tavolatalk.com/2013/panbriacone-italys-drunken-sweet-bread/#!\">the dome-shaped Italian sweet bread, panettone\u003c/a>, injected with sweet wine or rum. The French have small rum-soaked yeast cakes, \u003cem>baba au rhum,\u003c/em> which Krondl says were probably introduced to France by a Polish king. Then there's the decadent German \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/kitchen/saveur-100-black-forest-cake\">Black Forest cake\u003c/a>, constructed from layers of chocolate sponge cake, whipped cream, sour cherries and kirsch (cherry brandy).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>So, does alcohol burn off when you cook or bake it? Not completely. But a cake likely retains more spirits than, say, a sauce does.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"I would think that whatever alcohol is lost in baking is considerably less than what is lost when you boil or flame alcohol in cooking,\" writes Dorrie Greenspan, the author of \u003cem>Baking: From My Home to Yours\u003c/em>, in an email.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>If you want the flavor of spirits but not the buzz, try extracts, which contain little or no alcohol. For recipes calling for light rum, for example, the flavorings company McCormick & Co. \u003ca href=\"http://www.mccormick.com/Spices-and-Flavors/Extracts-and-Food-Colors/Extracts/Imitation-Rum-Extract\">recommends substituting\u003c/a> 1/2 teaspoon of imitation rum per tablespoon of spirit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Buzzed or not, these sweets are my standbys for St. Patrick's Day or any occasion that calls for a dramatic dessert.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cake\">\u003c/a>Chocolate Kahlua Bundt Cake\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This cake, adapted from a 2005 \u003c/em>Gourmet\u003cem> recipe for Chocolate Whiskey Bundt Cake, is rich and delicious, and the coffee liqueur heightens the intensity of the chocolate. This cake improves in flavor if it's made at least a day ahead, and it can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Bring the cake to room temperature before serving.\u003c/em>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79042\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorcake-ebe1ae4329d4446a4ca0327b79be2aaef47daa5d.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorcake-ebe1ae4329d4446a4ca0327b79be2aaef47daa5d-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate Kahlua Bundt Cake. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-79042\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate Kahlua Bundt Cake. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 10 to 12 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (not Dutch-process) plus 3 tablespoons for dusting the pan\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 3/4 cups brewed espresso or strong coffee\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup coffee-flavored liqueur, such as Kahlua\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 sticks unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup white sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup dark brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon almond extract or vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place oven rack in the middle position and preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Butter a 10-inch Bundt pan well, then dust it with 3 tablespoons cocoa powder, knocking out the excess.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat the coffee, coffee liqueur and butter and the cup of cocoa powder in a medium saucepan over moderate heat, whisking until the butter is melted and all the ingredients are combined. Remove mixture from heat, then add white and brown sugars and whisk until dissolved, about 1 minute. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and cool for about 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While the chocolate mixture cools, whisk together the flour, baking soda and salt in a bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs with almond or vanilla extract, then stir into the cooled chocolate mixture until it's combined well. Fold in the flour mixture until all of the ingredients are combined. (It will take some elbow grease to combine the ingredients; the batter will be mostly smooth, but don't be alarmed if there are a few small lumps.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour the batter into the Bundt pan and bake it until a toothpick or skewer inserted in the center comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes. Watch the cake closely. It goes quickly from moist to overbaked.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cool the cake completely in the pan for an hour. Loosen the cake from the pan using the tip of a small knife, then invert the rack over the pan and turn the cake out onto the rack. Cool the cake on the rack for another hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dust the cake with powdered sugar.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"salad\">\u003c/a>Macerated Oranges, Medjool Dates And Grapes with Slivered Almonds\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Though I trembled at the thought of tinkering with a recipe by the iconic Italian cookbook writer Marcella Hazan, tinker I did. Her recipe for \u003c/em>\u003cem>Macerated Oranges and Grapes with Toasted Slivered Almonds from \u003c/em>The Classic Italian Cookbook\u003cem>, called for orange liqueur but I liked the lighter taste imparted by white wine. I also added \u003c/em>\u003cem>dates and nuts for color and texture.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79043\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorfruitsalad-2f3934598e1a4f34da197628ebed4cbec2f80d0c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorfruitsalad-2f3934598e1a4f34da197628ebed4cbec2f80d0c-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Macerated Oranges, Medjool Dates And Grapes with Slivered Almonds. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-79043\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Macerated Oranges, Medjool Dates And Grapes with Slivered Almonds. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 to 8 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 navel oranges, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 small bunch of grapes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 Medjool dates, cut in half vertically, pitted then cut into quarters\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grated peel of 1 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 1/2 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup white wine\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon vanilla\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons slivered almonds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a sharp knife, cut off the ends of the oranges and peel them. Remove as much of the pith as possible, being careful not to cut into the flesh of the orange. Cut the orange in half, then into quarters. Cut the quarters into 1/2-inch slices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the oranges, grapes and dates into a bowl. Using a zester or the finest teeth on a box grater, grate the lemon peel into the bowl. Add the lemon juice. Add the wine and the vanilla. Toss the fruit salad gently, cover it and place it in the refrigerator for at least an hour. When you're ready to serve the fruit, toss it again to distribute the juices and sprinkle the salad with the slivered almonds. The salad keeps in the refrigerator for up to a day.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"bacon\">\u003c/a>Beer-Candied Bacon With Thyme\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>If you love candy and you love bacon, you'll love this bacon candy, which I adapted from a recipe from the \u003ca href=\"http://www.thekitchn.com/\">theKitchn\u003c/a> via the food blog \u003ca href=\"http://tideandthyme.com/\">Tide and Thyme\u003c/a>. The addition of thyme cuts the sweetness of the bacon and imparts a bit of adult polish. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79044\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorbacon-c29dd465a5893165e7a99e8c9fac67029840839a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquorbacon-c29dd465a5893165e7a99e8c9fac67029840839a-1024x767.jpg\" alt=\"Beer-Candied Bacon With Thyme. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1024\" height=\"767\" class=\"size-large wp-image-79044\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beer-Candied Bacon With Thyme. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup dark beer\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch cayenne\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound thick cut, high-quality bacon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon thyme\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Combine the brown sugar, beer, mustard and cayenne in a small bowl, whisking well to form a thin syrup. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Place a wire cooling rack on top of the baking sheet. Place the pieces of bacon on top of the rack, with enough space between them so they don't overlap. Brush one side of each bacon strip with the beer syrup. Place the sheet in the oven and cook for 8 to10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the bacon from the oven, turn over the strips of bacon and brush them with the beer syrup. Return the bacon to the oven and cook it for another 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the bacon from the oven and sprinkle it with thyme. Repeat the process once or twice more, watching to make sure the bacon doesn't burn, until it's crispy and browned and you've used all of the glaze.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the bacon to a wire rack to cool for at least 1 hour before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"milkshake\">\u003c/a>Chocolate Mint Milkshake\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>In this recipe, which is adapted from a drink called \"The Captain Reid's Milkshake\" in Warren Bobrow's \u003c/em>Apothecary Cocktails: Restorative Drinks from Yesterday and Today\u003cem>, mint liqueur and chocolate ice cream combine into a rich milkshake. This shake is thinner than the typical milkshake; if you prefer thicker shakes, reduce the amount of milk and adjust the mint liqueur to your taste. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_79045\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 768px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquormilkshake_custom-d179474970e7102b8e0ccf49f7f6e41cbe3cc4f2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/liquormilkshake_custom-d179474970e7102b8e0ccf49f7f6e41cbe3cc4f2-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Chocolate Mint Milkshake. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-large wp-image-79045\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Chocolate Mint Milkshake. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 ounces root beer, preferably craft-style\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 ounce mint liqueur\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 scoops rich, deep chocolate gelato or ice cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon colored sprinkles for garnish\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of fleur du sel\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a blender, blend all of the ingredients except the sprinkles and salt until smooth. Pour into glasses and top each serving with sprinkles and fleur du sel. \u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>About the Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Laura B. Weiss' work has appeared in numerous national publications, including \u003cem>The New York Times,\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/Kitchen/History-New-England-Indian-Pudding\">Saveur\u003c/a>,\u003cem> Travel + Leisure, \u003c/em>and on the Food Network website. She's a contributor to \u003ca href=\"http://designwire.interiordesign.net/events/15485/young-chinese-designers-make-western-debut\">Interior Design\u003c/a>\u003cem>'s\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>blog\u003cem> \u003c/em>and\u003cem> \u003c/em>was an editor for the \u003cem>Zagat Long Island Restaurant Guide\u003c/em> \u003cem>2009-2011. \u003c/em>Laura is the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ice-Cream-Global-History-Reaktion/dp/1861897928\">Ice Cream: A Global History\u003c/a>. Follow Laura on Twitter, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Foodandthings\" target=\"_blank\">@foodandthings\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/79041/spirited-sweets-for-st-patricks-or-any-day","authors":["byline_bayareabites_79041"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_1244","bayareabites_12550","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_8359","bayareabites_278","bayareabites_13157","bayareabites_11086","bayareabites_8349","bayareabites_123"],"featImg":"bayareabites_79050","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_78887":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_78887","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"78887","score":null,"sort":[1394136346000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"salt-cod-the-prosciutto-of-the-sea","title":"Salt Cod: The Prosciutto of the Sea?","publishDate":1394136346,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78888\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1523px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodmain_custom-30c6a2f2842b0a7f6a6c3074a2090e9a540b029c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodmain_custom-30c6a2f2842b0a7f6a6c3074a2090e9a540b029c.jpg\" alt=\"The best quality salt cod typically is sold as nearly white whole fillets, 2 or more inches thick in the thickest parts, often packed in coarse salt in wooden boxes. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\" width=\"1523\" height=\"1033\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78888\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The best quality salt cod typically is sold as nearly white whole fillets, 2 or more inches thick in the thickest parts, often packed in coarse salt in wooden boxes. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Tom Gilbert, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/03/05/285784554/salt-cod-the-prosciutto-of-the-sea\" target=\"_blank\">The Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/5/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#cakes\">New England Salt Cod Cakes\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#napoletana\">Baccala' Alla Napoletana\u003c/a> (Salt Cod With Potatoes In Tomato Sauce), \u003ca href=\"#mexicana\">Bacalao A La Mexicana\u003c/a> (Salt Cod With Onions In Tomatillo Sauce) and \u003ca href=\"#pickled\">Nina's Cruzan Pickled Salt Fish\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the God of the Old Testament, salt cod goes by many names. The French call it \u003cem>morue\u003c/em>, the Italians \u003cem>baccala'\u003c/em> and the Portuguese \u003cem>bacalhau\u003c/em>. Of course, the fish is the same — Atlantic cod — and the process is the same — drying and salting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt cod is eaten in nearly every country that comes into contact with the Atlantic Ocean. For centuries, this meaty, plentiful fish, whose low fat content makes it uniquely amenable to long-term preservation, provided mankind with a protein bonanza. Long before airplanes, motor-powered ships or refrigeration, cod could be caught in the north Atlantic and eaten months later in Europe, Africa or Latin America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt cod is also very delicious — even more delicious, in the opinion of many, than fresh cod. Still, I have food-savvy friends who don't get it. \"Why eat salt cod,\" they ask, \"when thanks to refrigeration we can always find fresh cod?\" \"Why eat prosciutto,\" I answer, \"when you could have fresh ham?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is not a gratuitous comparison. As Harold McGee writes in his encyclopedic work of food science, \u003cem>On Food and Cooking\u003c/em>:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>The best of these [salted fish] are the piscatory equivalent of salt-cured hams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In both, salt buys time for transformation: it preserves them long and gently enough for enzymes of both fish and harmless salt-tolerant bacteria to break down flavorless proteins and fats into savory fragments, which then react further to create flavors of great complexity.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Amen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This flavor alchemy explains why salt cod continues to be a cherished comfort food, even as dwindling catches have transformed it from a cheap staple into a pricey delicacy. Expensive comfort food may be a paradox, but thanks to overfishing or ecological change or whatever else is on the list of possible causes for the recent collapse of the Atlantic cod fishery, it is a fact of life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another salt cod paradox is that devotion to this homey and once humble food inevitably leads to faraway places and exotic cuisines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up in New England, we ate salt cod exclusively in the form of fish cakes. My mother made them for dinner, although traditionally they served as part of a working-class breakfast. I still make them, although sometimes, out of thrift, I substitute leftover cooked fish (bluefish and mackerel are good) or smoked fish for some or all of the salt cod.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During a college semester in Los Angeles I was introduced to \u003cem>chiles rellenos \u003c/em>and \u003cem>enchiladas\u003c/em>, but also found a life-changing Mexican salt cod casserole that Aztec-ed up the Iberian classic \u003cem>Bacalao a la Vizcaina\u003c/em> with tomatillos and dried chilies. My mother-in-law taught me a spicy and vinegary salt cod dish from her Virgin Islands childhood called pickled salt fish (pronounced more like \"sow fish\").\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most Americans associate salt cod with Italians, but to true devotees, southern Europe from Lisbon to Istanbul is a magical mystery tour, in which each nation, region and city cooks the dish in its own way. The Portuguese are in a class by themselves as salt cod lovers. Great fishermen, they not only introduced salt cod to most of Europe, but also proudly claim to have more than a thousand distinct recipes for \u003cem>bacalhau\u003c/em> — and not a single recipe for fresh cod.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cakes\">\u003c/a>New England Salt Cod Cakes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>These are wonderful when made entirely with salt cod, but out of thrift, or sometimes just for the sake of variety, you can substitute almost any white-fleshed leftover cooked fish, or even smoked fish, for some or all of the salt cod.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78889\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodcakes-888a5fc905097e2e712d2afa0630d5df8b542a4a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodcakes-888a5fc905097e2e712d2afa0630d5df8b542a4a.jpg\" alt=\"New England Salt Cod Cakes. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1087\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78889\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">New England Salt Cod Cakes. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound desalted salt cod\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 or 2 bay leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 medium-size starchy potatoes, boiled and mashed or riced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium Spanish onion, grated\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 eggs, lightly beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons finely chopped parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 generous pinch ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 small pinch grated nutmeg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup unseasoned breadcrumbs, or more as needed to bind the mixture\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dredging, 2 cups breadcrumbs, panko or flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 3 tablespoons of bacon fat or butter, or more as needed for frying\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 lemon, cut into wedges, or 1/2 cup tartar or hot sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Poach the desalted cod and bay leaf for 2 to 3 minutes in simmering water. Drain and flake cod; discard the bay leaf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, mix potatoes, onion, eggs, parsley, black pepper, nutmeg and breadcrumbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add flaked cod to bowl; mix all ingredients roughly by hand. The consistency should be moist but not so moist that you cannot form cakes about the size of a small hamburger that barely hold together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Form cakes and place them on a wax paper-lined cookie sheet. Cover with wax paper, then cover with tin foil and refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours in advance. You can cook them right away, but letting them rest in the refrigerator will help them hold together during frying.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take cakes out of refrigerator 15 minutes before cooking. Heat bacon fat or butter in a pan or cast iron skillet over medium heat until it sizzles when you add a small piece of bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dredge the fish cakes lightly in flour, unseasoned breadcrumbs or panko and fry for about 5 minutes on each side, or until they are heated through and the outsides are crispy and light to medium brown. Salt to taste and serve with lemon wedges, tartar sauce or hot sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"napoletana\">\u003c/a>Baccala' Alla Napoletana (Salt Cod With Potatoes In Tomato Sauce)\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is real Italian soul food — hearty and unrefined — and there are varieties on this recipe to be found all over Italy. Often, the potatoes are omitted and the dish is served over pasta. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78890\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodnapoletana-33607207b7b9120eca4fdec7296a72da9eade27d.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodnapoletana-33607207b7b9120eca4fdec7296a72da9eade27d.jpg\" alt=\"Baccala' Alla Napoletana (Salt Cod With Potatoes In Tomato Sauce). Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78890\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Baccala' Alla Napoletana (Salt Cod With Potatoes In Tomato Sauce). Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 to 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 medium starchy potatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup extra virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup black olives, pitted and roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large Spanish onion, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flour for dredging\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 pounds thick, desalted salt cod cut into large pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups canned San Marzano tomatoes, with juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon dried or 2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup white wine\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 1 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons salted capers, soaked, drained and roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup finely chopped parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peel the potatoes and boil them in salted water until slightly undercooked. Drain and slice into 1/4-inch thick slices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over low heat, sauté the olives and onion in a tablespoon or 2 of olive oil until the onions soften (about 5 minutes). Remove and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raise heat to medium. Add the remaining olive oil to the pan. Dredge cod lightly in flour and fry on both sides until brown. Remove cod and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add to the skillet the tomatoes, oregano, wine, lemon juice, capers and half of the parsley. Cook until sauce begins to thicken (10 to 15 minutes).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the cod and potato slices back to the skillet, turning them in the sauce. Cover with the onion and olive mixture. Add a few generous grinds of black pepper. Turn heat to very low and simmer slowly for 45 to 60 minutes, adding water in small amounts if the dish begins to dry out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sprinkle with the remaining parsley before serving; drizzle with more olive oil or add another squeeze of lemon juice if you like. Taste and correct for salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"mexicana\">\u003c/a>Bacalao A La Mexicana (Salt Cod With Onions In Tomatillo Sauce)\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Because it uses very thick pieces of salt cod, this dish can be extremely salty. I used to try to moderate the saltiness by soaking the salt cod for an extra few days, but over the years I have grown to enjoy it with an aggressive salty bite. Feel free to turn up the heat as well by adding hot peppers or hot pepper sauce to the \u003c/em>salsa verde\u003cem>. This recipe is adapted from \u003c/em>Uncommon Fruits and Vegetables: A Commonsense Guide\u003cem> by Elizabeth Schneider (William Morrow Cookbooks, 2010).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78891\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1447px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodmexicana-716e72382ef8c7cda0adafb8a88081b65d9fe9c9.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodmexicana-716e72382ef8c7cda0adafb8a88081b65d9fe9c9.jpg\" alt=\"Bacalao A La Mexicana (Salt Cod With Onions In Tomatillo Sauce). Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\" width=\"1447\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78891\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bacalao A La Mexicana (Salt Cod With Onions In Tomatillo Sauce). Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 to 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salsa Verde (Tomatillo Sauce)\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound fresh tomatillos\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 or 3 ancho or other dried Mexican chilies (not chipotles)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 garlic cloves, peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon tomato paste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch thoroughly rinsed cilantro roots and stems, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch cilantro leaves, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 lime, juiced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bacalao\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups \u003cem>salsa verde\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil or more as needed for sautéing\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large Spanish onions, sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flour for dredging\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound desalted salt cod, cut into pieces approximately 4-inches square\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups cooked rice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For salsa verde, peel and discard papery covering from tomatillos. Rinse tomatillos well under running warm water to clean and remove sticky coating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Boil 1 cup of water in a pot or saucepan. Clean dried chilies, discarding seeds and stems, and add them to hot water. Remove from heat and let stand for 15 to 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Puncture the tomatillos once or twice with a sharp fork and add to pot, along with garlic, tomato paste and chopped cilantro roots and stems. Cover and cook over low heat until tomatillos can be easily crushed. Allow sauce to cool. Add cilantro leaves and lime juice. Puree all ingredients in a blender or food processor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For bacalao, heat oil in a pan or skillet over low heat. Add onions and sauté slowly, stirring frequently, until onions are translucent and turning a light golden color. Remove onions to a casserole or baking dish, spreading them to cover the bottom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dredge cod lightly in flour. Turn heat under skillet to medium, and brown cod thoroughly on both sides in the onion-flavored oil. Remove cod and arrange in casserole on top of cooked onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reheat tomatillo sauce in skillet, scraping up remaining bits of flour, oil and juices. Pour sauce into casserole over cod and onions. Bake uncovered in 375-degree oven for 30 minutes. Taste and correct for salt. Serve over rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"pickled\">\u003c/a>Nina's Cruzan Pickled Salt Fish\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This dish must cure for a week before eating; after that, it will keep for a month or so in the refrigerator. My mother-in-law, Nina, used to leave it on the kitchen counter, which is fine if ambient temperatures stay under 65 degrees or so.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78899\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodpickled-9485899dce864fe9a9e6560d030bb7cf16f1bfdb-s4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodpickled-9485899dce864fe9a9e6560d030bb7cf16f1bfdb-s4.jpg\" alt=\"Nina's Cruzan Pickled Salt Fish. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"467\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78899\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nina's Cruzan Pickled Salt Fish. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>1 pound desalted salt cod\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 bay leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium red onion, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 red bell pepper, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 jalapeno, habanero or other hot peppers with seeds and interior ribs removed, finely chopped (leave seeds and ribs in if you like more heat)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 celery stalks, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup thoroughly rinsed cilantro, including both leaves and stems, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 clove garlic, peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 limes, juiced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup light olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Distilled white vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Poach desalted cod along with bay leaves in simmering water to cover for 3 minutes. Drain, cool and flake. Discard bay leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add to a bowl the onion, bell pepper, hot pepper, celery, cilantro, garlic, lime juice and olive oil. Add flaked cod and mix well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spoon mixture into large mason or other glass jar. Fill to top with distilled white vinegar. Cover and refrigerate for 1 week. Taste and correct for salt. Serve on lettuce, crackers, toast or bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003ch3>About Salt Cod\u003c/h3>\n\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Buying. \u003c/strong>The quality of salt cod varies considerably. Often, what is labeled \"salt cod,\" \"baccala'\" or \"bacalao\" is actually hake or another cod impersonator. You can make decent fish cakes using pretty much any of these, but for other recipes try to use the best quality salt cod you can find. This means nearly white whole fillets, about 2 or more inches thick in the thickest parts; these tend to come in wooden boxes packed in coarse salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Desalting\u003c/strong>. All of these recipes begin with desalting the salt cod. (You can skip this step if your fish seller — as some do in Italian and Latino markets — desalts the salt cod for you and sells it frozen.) This is done by soaking the fish in a pot of cold water for 2 days or so — changing the water 2 or 3 times a day. The pot should be kept in the refrigerator. Obviously, the thicker the salt cod, the longer the process will take.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salt\u003c/strong>. Because the desalting process can be a bit unpredictable, do not add salt to these dishes until they are done and you have tasted them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003ch3>About the Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp> Tom Gilbert writes about food, baseball, politics and the history of New York City. A longtime resident of Greenpoint, Brooklyn, where he is a notorious home cook, Tom knows the good food places in three NYC boroughs and several Italian regions; he can eat in eight languages and talk about eating in five. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"Why eat preserved cod when fresh is so readily available? The salt transforms it into savory, complex comfort food, and nearly every country bordering the Atlantic Ocean has a version of it.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1394085511,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":106,"wordCount":2250},"headData":{"title":"Salt Cod: The Prosciutto of the Sea? | KQED","description":"Why eat preserved cod when fresh is so readily available? The salt transforms it into savory, complex comfort food, and nearly every country bordering the Atlantic Ocean has a version of it.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Salt Cod: The Prosciutto of the Sea?","datePublished":"2014-03-06T20:05:46.000Z","dateModified":"2014-03-06T05:58:31.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"78887 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=78887","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/03/06/salt-cod-the-prosciutto-of-the-sea/","disqusTitle":"Salt Cod: The Prosciutto of the Sea?","nprByline":"Tom Gilbert","nprStoryId":"285784554","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=285784554&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/2014/03/05/285784554/salt-cod-the-prosciutto-of-the-sea?ft=3&f=285784554","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 05 Mar 2014 03:09:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 05 Mar 2014 00:12:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 05 Mar 2014 03:09:48 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/78887/salt-cod-the-prosciutto-of-the-sea","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78888\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1523px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodmain_custom-30c6a2f2842b0a7f6a6c3074a2090e9a540b029c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodmain_custom-30c6a2f2842b0a7f6a6c3074a2090e9a540b029c.jpg\" alt=\"The best quality salt cod typically is sold as nearly white whole fillets, 2 or more inches thick in the thickest parts, often packed in coarse salt in wooden boxes. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\" width=\"1523\" height=\"1033\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78888\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The best quality salt cod typically is sold as nearly white whole fillets, 2 or more inches thick in the thickest parts, often packed in coarse salt in wooden boxes. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Tom Gilbert, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/03/05/285784554/salt-cod-the-prosciutto-of-the-sea\" target=\"_blank\">The Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (3/5/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#cakes\">New England Salt Cod Cakes\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#napoletana\">Baccala' Alla Napoletana\u003c/a> (Salt Cod With Potatoes In Tomato Sauce), \u003ca href=\"#mexicana\">Bacalao A La Mexicana\u003c/a> (Salt Cod With Onions In Tomatillo Sauce) and \u003ca href=\"#pickled\">Nina's Cruzan Pickled Salt Fish\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like the God of the Old Testament, salt cod goes by many names. The French call it \u003cem>morue\u003c/em>, the Italians \u003cem>baccala'\u003c/em> and the Portuguese \u003cem>bacalhau\u003c/em>. Of course, the fish is the same — Atlantic cod — and the process is the same — drying and salting.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt cod is eaten in nearly every country that comes into contact with the Atlantic Ocean. For centuries, this meaty, plentiful fish, whose low fat content makes it uniquely amenable to long-term preservation, provided mankind with a protein bonanza. Long before airplanes, motor-powered ships or refrigeration, cod could be caught in the north Atlantic and eaten months later in Europe, Africa or Latin America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt cod is also very delicious — even more delicious, in the opinion of many, than fresh cod. Still, I have food-savvy friends who don't get it. \"Why eat salt cod,\" they ask, \"when thanks to refrigeration we can always find fresh cod?\" \"Why eat prosciutto,\" I answer, \"when you could have fresh ham?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This is not a gratuitous comparison. As Harold McGee writes in his encyclopedic work of food science, \u003cem>On Food and Cooking\u003c/em>:\u003c/p>\n\u003cblockquote>\u003cp>The best of these [salted fish] are the piscatory equivalent of salt-cured hams.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In both, salt buys time for transformation: it preserves them long and gently enough for enzymes of both fish and harmless salt-tolerant bacteria to break down flavorless proteins and fats into savory fragments, which then react further to create flavors of great complexity.\u003c/p>\u003c/blockquote>\n\u003cp>Amen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>This flavor alchemy explains why salt cod continues to be a cherished comfort food, even as dwindling catches have transformed it from a cheap staple into a pricey delicacy. Expensive comfort food may be a paradox, but thanks to overfishing or ecological change or whatever else is on the list of possible causes for the recent collapse of the Atlantic cod fishery, it is a fact of life.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Another salt cod paradox is that devotion to this homey and once humble food inevitably leads to faraway places and exotic cuisines.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Growing up in New England, we ate salt cod exclusively in the form of fish cakes. My mother made them for dinner, although traditionally they served as part of a working-class breakfast. I still make them, although sometimes, out of thrift, I substitute leftover cooked fish (bluefish and mackerel are good) or smoked fish for some or all of the salt cod.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>During a college semester in Los Angeles I was introduced to \u003cem>chiles rellenos \u003c/em>and \u003cem>enchiladas\u003c/em>, but also found a life-changing Mexican salt cod casserole that Aztec-ed up the Iberian classic \u003cem>Bacalao a la Vizcaina\u003c/em> with tomatillos and dried chilies. My mother-in-law taught me a spicy and vinegary salt cod dish from her Virgin Islands childhood called pickled salt fish (pronounced more like \"sow fish\").\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Most Americans associate salt cod with Italians, but to true devotees, southern Europe from Lisbon to Istanbul is a magical mystery tour, in which each nation, region and city cooks the dish in its own way. The Portuguese are in a class by themselves as salt cod lovers. Great fishermen, they not only introduced salt cod to most of Europe, but also proudly claim to have more than a thousand distinct recipes for \u003cem>bacalhau\u003c/em> — and not a single recipe for fresh cod.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cakes\">\u003c/a>New England Salt Cod Cakes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>These are wonderful when made entirely with salt cod, but out of thrift, or sometimes just for the sake of variety, you can substitute almost any white-fleshed leftover cooked fish, or even smoked fish, for some or all of the salt cod.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78889\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodcakes-888a5fc905097e2e712d2afa0630d5df8b542a4a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodcakes-888a5fc905097e2e712d2afa0630d5df8b542a4a.jpg\" alt=\"New England Salt Cod Cakes. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1087\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78889\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">New England Salt Cod Cakes. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound desalted salt cod\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 or 2 bay leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 medium-size starchy potatoes, boiled and mashed or riced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium Spanish onion, grated\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 eggs, lightly beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons finely chopped parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 generous pinch ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 small pinch grated nutmeg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup unseasoned breadcrumbs, or more as needed to bind the mixture\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For dredging, 2 cups breadcrumbs, panko or flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 3 tablespoons of bacon fat or butter, or more as needed for frying\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 lemon, cut into wedges, or 1/2 cup tartar or hot sauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Poach the desalted cod and bay leaf for 2 to 3 minutes in simmering water. Drain and flake cod; discard the bay leaf.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, mix potatoes, onion, eggs, parsley, black pepper, nutmeg and breadcrumbs.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add flaked cod to bowl; mix all ingredients roughly by hand. The consistency should be moist but not so moist that you cannot form cakes about the size of a small hamburger that barely hold together.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Form cakes and place them on a wax paper-lined cookie sheet. Cover with wax paper, then cover with tin foil and refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours in advance. You can cook them right away, but letting them rest in the refrigerator will help them hold together during frying.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Take cakes out of refrigerator 15 minutes before cooking. Heat bacon fat or butter in a pan or cast iron skillet over medium heat until it sizzles when you add a small piece of bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dredge the fish cakes lightly in flour, unseasoned breadcrumbs or panko and fry for about 5 minutes on each side, or until they are heated through and the outsides are crispy and light to medium brown. Salt to taste and serve with lemon wedges, tartar sauce or hot sauce.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"napoletana\">\u003c/a>Baccala' Alla Napoletana (Salt Cod With Potatoes In Tomato Sauce)\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is real Italian soul food — hearty and unrefined — and there are varieties on this recipe to be found all over Italy. Often, the potatoes are omitted and the dish is served over pasta. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78890\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1448px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodnapoletana-33607207b7b9120eca4fdec7296a72da9eade27d.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodnapoletana-33607207b7b9120eca4fdec7296a72da9eade27d.jpg\" alt=\"Baccala' Alla Napoletana (Salt Cod With Potatoes In Tomato Sauce). Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\" width=\"1448\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78890\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Baccala' Alla Napoletana (Salt Cod With Potatoes In Tomato Sauce). Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 to 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 medium starchy potatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup extra virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup black olives, pitted and roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large Spanish onion, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flour for dredging\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 pounds thick, desalted salt cod cut into large pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups canned San Marzano tomatoes, with juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon dried or 2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup white wine\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Juice of 1 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons salted capers, soaked, drained and roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup finely chopped parsley\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Freshly ground black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Peel the potatoes and boil them in salted water until slightly undercooked. Drain and slice into 1/4-inch thick slices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Over low heat, sauté the olives and onion in a tablespoon or 2 of olive oil until the onions soften (about 5 minutes). Remove and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Raise heat to medium. Add the remaining olive oil to the pan. Dredge cod lightly in flour and fry on both sides until brown. Remove cod and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add to the skillet the tomatoes, oregano, wine, lemon juice, capers and half of the parsley. Cook until sauce begins to thicken (10 to 15 minutes).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the cod and potato slices back to the skillet, turning them in the sauce. Cover with the onion and olive mixture. Add a few generous grinds of black pepper. Turn heat to very low and simmer slowly for 45 to 60 minutes, adding water in small amounts if the dish begins to dry out.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Sprinkle with the remaining parsley before serving; drizzle with more olive oil or add another squeeze of lemon juice if you like. Taste and correct for salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"mexicana\">\u003c/a>Bacalao A La Mexicana (Salt Cod With Onions In Tomatillo Sauce)\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Because it uses very thick pieces of salt cod, this dish can be extremely salty. I used to try to moderate the saltiness by soaking the salt cod for an extra few days, but over the years I have grown to enjoy it with an aggressive salty bite. Feel free to turn up the heat as well by adding hot peppers or hot pepper sauce to the \u003c/em>salsa verde\u003cem>. This recipe is adapted from \u003c/em>Uncommon Fruits and Vegetables: A Commonsense Guide\u003cem> by Elizabeth Schneider (William Morrow Cookbooks, 2010).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78891\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1447px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodmexicana-716e72382ef8c7cda0adafb8a88081b65d9fe9c9.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodmexicana-716e72382ef8c7cda0adafb8a88081b65d9fe9c9.jpg\" alt=\"Bacalao A La Mexicana (Salt Cod With Onions In Tomatillo Sauce). Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\" width=\"1447\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78891\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bacalao A La Mexicana (Salt Cod With Onions In Tomatillo Sauce). Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 to 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salsa Verde (Tomatillo Sauce)\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound fresh tomatillos\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 or 3 ancho or other dried Mexican chilies (not chipotles)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 garlic cloves, peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon tomato paste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch thoroughly rinsed cilantro roots and stems, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch cilantro leaves, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 lime, juiced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Bacalao\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups \u003cem>salsa verde\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil or more as needed for sautéing\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large Spanish onions, sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flour for dredging\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound desalted salt cod, cut into pieces approximately 4-inches square\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups cooked rice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For salsa verde, peel and discard papery covering from tomatillos. Rinse tomatillos well under running warm water to clean and remove sticky coating.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Boil 1 cup of water in a pot or saucepan. Clean dried chilies, discarding seeds and stems, and add them to hot water. Remove from heat and let stand for 15 to 30 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Puncture the tomatillos once or twice with a sharp fork and add to pot, along with garlic, tomato paste and chopped cilantro roots and stems. Cover and cook over low heat until tomatillos can be easily crushed. Allow sauce to cool. Add cilantro leaves and lime juice. Puree all ingredients in a blender or food processor.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For bacalao, heat oil in a pan or skillet over low heat. Add onions and sauté slowly, stirring frequently, until onions are translucent and turning a light golden color. Remove onions to a casserole or baking dish, spreading them to cover the bottom.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dredge cod lightly in flour. Turn heat under skillet to medium, and brown cod thoroughly on both sides in the onion-flavored oil. Remove cod and arrange in casserole on top of cooked onions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Reheat tomatillo sauce in skillet, scraping up remaining bits of flour, oil and juices. Pour sauce into casserole over cod and onions. Bake uncovered in 375-degree oven for 30 minutes. Taste and correct for salt. Serve over rice.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"pickled\">\u003c/a>Nina's Cruzan Pickled Salt Fish\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This dish must cure for a week before eating; after that, it will keep for a month or so in the refrigerator. My mother-in-law, Nina, used to leave it on the kitchen counter, which is fine if ambient temperatures stay under 65 degrees or so.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78899\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodpickled-9485899dce864fe9a9e6560d030bb7cf16f1bfdb-s4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/03/saltcodpickled-9485899dce864fe9a9e6560d030bb7cf16f1bfdb-s4.jpg\" alt=\"Nina's Cruzan Pickled Salt Fish. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"467\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78899\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nina's Cruzan Pickled Salt Fish. Photo: Tom Gilbert/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>1 pound desalted salt cod\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 bay leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium red onion, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 red bell pepper, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 jalapeno, habanero or other hot peppers with seeds and interior ribs removed, finely chopped (leave seeds and ribs in if you like more heat)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 celery stalks, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup thoroughly rinsed cilantro, including both leaves and stems, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 clove garlic, peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 limes, juiced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup light olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Distilled white vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Poach desalted cod along with bay leaves in simmering water to cover for 3 minutes. Drain, cool and flake. Discard bay leaves.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add to a bowl the onion, bell pepper, hot pepper, celery, cilantro, garlic, lime juice and olive oil. Add flaked cod and mix well.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Spoon mixture into large mason or other glass jar. Fill to top with distilled white vinegar. Cover and refrigerate for 1 week. Taste and correct for salt. Serve on lettuce, crackers, toast or bread.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003ch3>About Salt Cod\u003c/h3>\n\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Buying. \u003c/strong>The quality of salt cod varies considerably. Often, what is labeled \"salt cod,\" \"baccala'\" or \"bacalao\" is actually hake or another cod impersonator. You can make decent fish cakes using pretty much any of these, but for other recipes try to use the best quality salt cod you can find. This means nearly white whole fillets, about 2 or more inches thick in the thickest parts; these tend to come in wooden boxes packed in coarse salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Desalting\u003c/strong>. All of these recipes begin with desalting the salt cod. (You can skip this step if your fish seller — as some do in Italian and Latino markets — desalts the salt cod for you and sells it frozen.) This is done by soaking the fish in a pot of cold water for 2 days or so — changing the water 2 or 3 times a day. The pot should be kept in the refrigerator. Obviously, the thicker the salt cod, the longer the process will take.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salt\u003c/strong>. Because the desalting process can be a bit unpredictable, do not add salt to these dishes until they are done and you have tasted them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003ch3>About the Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp> Tom Gilbert writes about food, baseball, politics and the history of New York City. A longtime resident of Greenpoint, Brooklyn, where he is a notorious home cook, Tom knows the good food places in three NYC boroughs and several Italian regions; he can eat in eight languages and talk about eating in five. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/78887/salt-cod-the-prosciutto-of-the-sea","authors":["byline_bayareabites_78887"],"categories":["bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_2202","bayareabites_376","bayareabites_11086","bayareabites_14738","bayareabites_13133"],"featImg":"bayareabites_78897","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_78635":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_78635","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"78635","score":null,"sort":[1393451267000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"fat-tuesday-the-many-different-doughnuts-of-mardi-gras","title":"Fat Tuesday: The Many Different Doughnuts of Mardi Gras","publishDate":1393451267,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78636\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1606px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsmain_custom-f86530e52c1bce57498ff026f52c75ed0302f9f1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsmain_custom-f86530e52c1bce57498ff026f52c75ed0302f9f1.jpg\" alt=\"A Mardi Gras treat fit for a king. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\" width=\"1606\" height=\"980\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78636\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Mardi Gras treat fit for a king. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Emily Hilliard, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/02/26/282908382/fat-tuesday-the-many-different-doughnuts-of-mardi-gras\" target=\"_blank\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/26/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#paczki\">Paczki\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#fasnacht\">Fasnacht\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#beignets\">Beignets\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#cenci\">Cenci\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The history of doughnuts is intrinsically linked to the celebration of Mardi Gras. \"Fat Tuesday\" — the Christian day of revelry and indulgence before the austere season of Lent — features dough deep-fried in fat as its main staple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Among the first foods to be deep-fried were Roman \u003cem>scriblita\u003c/em>, a precursor to today's doughnuts and fritters. Originating in the medieval era, most Christian European traditions have developed a version of fried dough for Shrove Tuesday (another name for the day before Lent starts). The rich treats presented a way to use up all of the butter, sugar and fat in the house prior to the self-denying diets of Lent. Traditionally it was an opportunity for indulgence, a day when, once a year, communities would go through the labor-intensive and expensive process of deep-frying in order to partake in a luxurious treat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Poland and Polish communities in the United States, such as in the Midwest, Fat Tuesday is given another name — \"Paczki Day,\" referring to the dense yet puffy jelly-filled doughnuts enjoyed on the occasion. \u003ca href=\"http://www.americanfoodroots.com/features/polish-paczki-the-midwests-last-fling-before-lent/\">\u003cem>Paczki\u003c/em>\u003c/a> were traditionally filled with rose hip jam or a stewed plum concoction called \u003cem>powidla\u003c/em>, though today they often contain a variety of different jams and custards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The history of colonization and immigration from the \"old world\" to the new can be traced through the evolution of doughnuts such as \u003cem>paczki\u003c/em>. These celebration foods were important, and were both preserved and altered as they interacted with new ingredients and other influences in their new homes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Portuguese \u003cem>malasadas\u003c/em>, also enjoyed on Shrove Tuesday, or \"Malasada Day,\" were another such confection. The raised doughnuts were brought to Hawaii by sugar plantation workers in the late 1800s. Though originally they had no holes or fillings, they have evolved there to include fillings with Hawaiian ingredients such as guava and coconut. They are also popular among Portuguese communities in New England.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The German take on pre-Lenten doughnuts are called \u003cem>fastnachts\u003c/em> (or \u003cem>fasnachts\u003c/em>), bearing the same name as the traditional Carnival celebration, which translates as \"fast night.\" The golden-brown yeasted treats, related to bismarks and berliners, are also found in Pennsylvania Dutch and Moravian enclaves in the United States. (In Maryland, the same doughnuts are called kinklings.) Traditional \u003cem>fastnachts\u003c/em> are fried in lard and, like \u003cem>malasadas,\u003c/em> do not have a hole or contain filling. The Pennsylvania Dutch version often includes mashed potatoes in the recipe, making a heartier and denser doughnut — something to stick to your ribs until the end of Lent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beignets are the most widely known Mardi Gras doughnut. The recipe for the light and eggy pillows of fried dough was brought to Louisiana when French Acadians were deported there in the 18th century. But there is another, lesser-known Carnival doughnut in New Orleans — \u003ca href=\"http://www.americanfoodroots.com/50-states/calas-and-beignets-both-in-new-orleans-to-party/\">calas\u003c/a>. Sweet, fried rice dumplings, calas originate from the West African enslaved people who were brought to the area in the late 1700s. The recipe was passed on among Catholic African-American families who served them at Mardi Gras and other celebrations, and they're making a comeback in New Orleans restaurants, where they're offered as both savory and sweet dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Italy has two pre-Lenten fried confections: Both \u003cem>castagnoles\u003c/em>, fried cake puffs soaked in liqueur, and \u003cem>cenci\u003c/em> (also called \u003cem>frappe\u003c/em>), crispy strips of fried pastry similar to funnel cake, are enjoyed during \u003cem>Carnevale\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As it goes with traditional recipes that have undergone many relocations, transitions and generations, there are many variations and not one definitive source for all of these varying Carnival delights. No matter which you chose, celebrate next Tuesday the way it's supposed to be — with a hearty helping of dough and fat.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"paczki\">\u003c/a>Paczki\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Polish paczki are dense yet puffy fruit-filled doughnuts that have become a Fat Tuesday mainstay in Polish communities across the United States. They're traditionally filled with rose hip jam or stewed plums, but you can use your favorite jam. This recipe is adapted from \u003c/em>Polish Heritage Cookery\u003cem> by Robert and Maria Stybel (Hippocrene, 2005).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78637\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1536px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutspaczki_custom-42eb4a41eddf1317c88322fab4bb0064dcde4c3a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutspaczki_custom-42eb4a41eddf1317c88322fab4bb0064dcde4c3a.jpg\" alt=\"Paczki. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\" width=\"1536\" height=\"1023\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78637\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Paczki. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes approximately 2 dozen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 packets active dry yeast\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup whole milk, lukewarm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus additional for rolling\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon white sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 large egg yolks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2/3 cup powdered sugar, plus more for dusting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons rum\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 stick salted butter, melted and lukewarm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Canola oil for frying (or lard for a more traditional paczki)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jam for filling\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium bowl, dissolve yeast in lukewarm milk. Sift in 1 cup of the flour and the white sugar. Whisk together, cover and let stand in a warm place to let rise, 5 to 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Using a stand mixer, or whisk and large bowl, beat the egg yolks with powdered sugar and vanilla until fluffy. In a large bowl, sift remaining flour, add yeast mixture, egg mixture and rum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Knead dough until it is smooth and glossy. Return to the bowl and mix in melted butter and continue to knead until dough no longer clings to the hands and bowl and air bubbles begin to appear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover bowl with cloth and let rise in a warm place until doubled, about 1 hour. Punch dough down and let it rise again, about 45 minutes. Transfer dough to a floured surface, and roll out about 1/2-inch thick. With a biscuit cutter, cut into rounds. Place on a baking sheet covered with parchment paper and cover with a cloth while you heat the oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour oil into a deep, heavy saucepan with high sides, until about 3 inches deep. Bring to 360 to 375 degrees F over medium heat. Working in batches, fry paczki until puffed and golden brown, about 2 minutes on each side. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and let cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once cool, insert a small hole into the side of the doughnut and fill with jam using a pastry bag. Dust with powdered sugar and eat fresh.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"fasnacht\">\u003c/a>Fasnacht (Or Fastnacht)\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Fastnachts are yeasted doughnuts of German descent that bear the same name as the traditional pre-Lenten celebration, which translates as \"fast night.\" They typically have no hole or filling and are dusted with powdered sugar. This recipe, like many Pennsylvania Dutch recipes for fasnacht, uses powdered sugar. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78638\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1536px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsfasnacht_enl-2e4a25232d0654a41291aacecc9cda63c12b4136.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsfasnacht_enl-2e4a25232d0654a41291aacecc9cda63c12b4136.jpg\" alt=\"Fasnacht. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\" width=\"1536\" height=\"1023\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78638\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fasnacht. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes approximately 2 dozen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 packet active dry yeast\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup whole milk, lukewarm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup sugar, plus a pinch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup mashed potatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large egg, beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Canola oil for frying (or traditionally, lard)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Powdered sugar, for dusting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm milk, add a pinch of sugar and whisk together. Set aside in a warm place to rise, 5 to 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl or in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine flour, mashed potatoes, 1/2 cup sugar and salt. Add the yeast mixture, butter and beaten egg. Mix together until combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turn the dough out on a floured surface and knead until the dough is elastic and not sticky, about 3 to 4 minutes. Roll out dough about 1/2-inch thick and cut into squares (a round biscuit cutter is also OK, though squares are traditional).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the cut doughnuts on a floured cookie sheet, cover with a cloth, and let rise 30 to 40 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, in a deep, heavy saucepan with high sides, pour oil about 3 inches deep. Bring to 360-375 degrees F over medium heat. Working in batches, fry fasnacht until puffed and golden brown, about 2 minutes on each side. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and let cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once cool, dust with powdered sugar and serve warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"beignets\">\u003c/a>Beignets\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Beignets are the classic pillowy, fried dough confections traditionally eaten at French Mardi Gras celebrations and now ubiquitous in Louisiana and other areas of the South. I recommend making the dough the night before so you can fry and eat them fresh first thing the next morning. This recipe is adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://whatscookingamerica.net/History/BeignetsHistory.htm\">What's Cooking America\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78639\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1539px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsbeignets_custom-fa9cf533a0937def36e01073c658044821c6baef.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsbeignets_custom-fa9cf533a0937def36e01073c658044821c6baef.jpg\" alt=\"Beignets. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\" width=\"1539\" height=\"1022\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78639\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beignets. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 18 to 24 beignets\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup lukewarm water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 teaspoons active dry yeast\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup white sugar, plus a pinch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large egg, beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup evaporated milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vegetable oil for deep-frying\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Powdered sugar for dusting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium bowl, place water, yeast and pinch of sugar. Whisk together and let sit to dissolve yeast, 5 to 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl or bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine flour, 1/4 cup sugar and salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add yeast mixture and stir until incorporated. Add egg, butter and evaporated milk and mix until well combined and dough is smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove dough from bowl and roll out onto a lightly oiled surface. Form dough into a ball and place in a lightly greased bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled, 3 to 4 hours or overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once chilled, remove dough from the refrigerator and roll out on a lightly floured surface about 1/2-inch thick. Cut into squares and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Cover with a cloth and set aside while you heat the oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a deep heavy saucepan with high sides, heat 3 inches of oil to 360-375 degrees F. Working in batches, fry the beignets for 2 minutes on each side, until puffed and golden brown. Using a wire skimmer or slotted spatula, transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Transfer to a baking sheet and let cool completely. Dust with powdered sugar and serve warm or at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cenci\">\u003c/a>Cenci\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Different from the other recipes featured here, Italian \u003c/em>cenci\u003cem> (literally, \"rags\") are strips of fried pastry that are said to have been made from leftover scraps of dough. They are known by different names across Italy and are akin to elephant ears or funnel cake in the United States. This recipe is adapted from \u003c/em>Cucina Povera: Tuscan Peasant Cooking\u003cem> by Pamela Sheldon Johns (Andrews McMeel, 2011).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78640\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1592px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutscenci_custom-6cc92f7d6c3e1bc704dfbe4774e2016216e23c57.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutscenci_custom-6cc92f7d6c3e1bc704dfbe4774e2016216e23c57.jpg\" alt=\"Cenci. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\" width=\"1592\" height=\"988\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78640\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cenci. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 3 dozen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup white sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup sparkling water, dry white wine or vin santo\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grated zest of 1 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vegetable oil for deep-frying\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Powdered sugar for dusting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl or bowl of a stand mixer, combine the sugar, eggs and butter. Beat with a wooden spoon or stand mixer until creamy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stir in the sparkling water or wine, lemon zest and salt. Stir in the flour, blending until well-combined and dough is stiff, though sticky. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough out to a thickness of 1/8 inch. Using a fluted pastry wheel, cut the dough into 1-by-3-inch strips. Make a cut down the center of each strip, leaving the ends attached.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a deep heavy saucepan with high sides, heat 3 inches of oil to 360-375 degrees F. Working in batches, fry the pastry for 3 to 4 minutes, or until golden. Using a wire skimmer or slotted spatula, transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Transfer to a baking sheet and let cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dust with powdered sugar and serve warm or at room temperature. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>About the Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Emily Hilliard is a folklorist and writer living in Washington, D.C. She writes the pie blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.nothinginthehouse.com/\">Nothing-in-the-House\u003c/a> and recently released the cookbook \u003ca href=\"http://www.etsy.com/listing/113875269/pie-a-hand-drawn-almanac\">PIE. A Hand Drawn Almanac\u003c/a> with illustrator \u003ca href=\"http://www.elizabethgraeber.com/\">Elizabeth Graeber\u003c/a>. Find more of Emily's work on \u003ca href=\"http://emilyehilliard.com/\">her website\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"On the day of indulgence before the austere season of Lent, celebrate as you're meant to: with a hearty helping of dough and fat.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1393436967,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":86,"wordCount":2030},"headData":{"title":"Fat Tuesday: The Many Different Doughnuts of Mardi Gras | KQED","description":"On the day of indulgence before the austere season of Lent, celebrate as you're meant to: with a hearty helping of dough and fat.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Fat Tuesday: The Many Different Doughnuts of Mardi Gras","datePublished":"2014-02-26T21:47:47.000Z","dateModified":"2014-02-26T17:49:27.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"78635 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=78635","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/02/26/fat-tuesday-the-many-different-doughnuts-of-mardi-gras/","disqusTitle":"Fat Tuesday: The Many Different Doughnuts of Mardi Gras","nprByline":"Emily Hilliard","nprStoryId":"282908382","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=282908382&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/2014/02/26/282908382/fat-tuesday-the-many-different-doughnuts-of-mardi-gras?ft=3&f=282908382","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 26 Feb 2014 11:02:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 26 Feb 2014 10:34:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 26 Feb 2014 11:02:29 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/78635/fat-tuesday-the-many-different-doughnuts-of-mardi-gras","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78636\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1606px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsmain_custom-f86530e52c1bce57498ff026f52c75ed0302f9f1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsmain_custom-f86530e52c1bce57498ff026f52c75ed0302f9f1.jpg\" alt=\"A Mardi Gras treat fit for a king. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\" width=\"1606\" height=\"980\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78636\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A Mardi Gras treat fit for a king. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Emily Hilliard, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/02/26/282908382/fat-tuesday-the-many-different-doughnuts-of-mardi-gras\" target=\"_blank\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/26/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#paczki\">Paczki\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#fasnacht\">Fasnacht\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#beignets\">Beignets\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#cenci\">Cenci\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The history of doughnuts is intrinsically linked to the celebration of Mardi Gras. \"Fat Tuesday\" — the Christian day of revelry and indulgence before the austere season of Lent — features dough deep-fried in fat as its main staple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Among the first foods to be deep-fried were Roman \u003cem>scriblita\u003c/em>, a precursor to today's doughnuts and fritters. Originating in the medieval era, most Christian European traditions have developed a version of fried dough for Shrove Tuesday (another name for the day before Lent starts). The rich treats presented a way to use up all of the butter, sugar and fat in the house prior to the self-denying diets of Lent. Traditionally it was an opportunity for indulgence, a day when, once a year, communities would go through the labor-intensive and expensive process of deep-frying in order to partake in a luxurious treat.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In Poland and Polish communities in the United States, such as in the Midwest, Fat Tuesday is given another name — \"Paczki Day,\" referring to the dense yet puffy jelly-filled doughnuts enjoyed on the occasion. \u003ca href=\"http://www.americanfoodroots.com/features/polish-paczki-the-midwests-last-fling-before-lent/\">\u003cem>Paczki\u003c/em>\u003c/a> were traditionally filled with rose hip jam or a stewed plum concoction called \u003cem>powidla\u003c/em>, though today they often contain a variety of different jams and custards.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The history of colonization and immigration from the \"old world\" to the new can be traced through the evolution of doughnuts such as \u003cem>paczki\u003c/em>. These celebration foods were important, and were both preserved and altered as they interacted with new ingredients and other influences in their new homes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Portuguese \u003cem>malasadas\u003c/em>, also enjoyed on Shrove Tuesday, or \"Malasada Day,\" were another such confection. The raised doughnuts were brought to Hawaii by sugar plantation workers in the late 1800s. Though originally they had no holes or fillings, they have evolved there to include fillings with Hawaiian ingredients such as guava and coconut. They are also popular among Portuguese communities in New England.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The German take on pre-Lenten doughnuts are called \u003cem>fastnachts\u003c/em> (or \u003cem>fasnachts\u003c/em>), bearing the same name as the traditional Carnival celebration, which translates as \"fast night.\" The golden-brown yeasted treats, related to bismarks and berliners, are also found in Pennsylvania Dutch and Moravian enclaves in the United States. (In Maryland, the same doughnuts are called kinklings.) Traditional \u003cem>fastnachts\u003c/em> are fried in lard and, like \u003cem>malasadas,\u003c/em> do not have a hole or contain filling. The Pennsylvania Dutch version often includes mashed potatoes in the recipe, making a heartier and denser doughnut — something to stick to your ribs until the end of Lent.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beignets are the most widely known Mardi Gras doughnut. The recipe for the light and eggy pillows of fried dough was brought to Louisiana when French Acadians were deported there in the 18th century. But there is another, lesser-known Carnival doughnut in New Orleans — \u003ca href=\"http://www.americanfoodroots.com/50-states/calas-and-beignets-both-in-new-orleans-to-party/\">calas\u003c/a>. Sweet, fried rice dumplings, calas originate from the West African enslaved people who were brought to the area in the late 1700s. The recipe was passed on among Catholic African-American families who served them at Mardi Gras and other celebrations, and they're making a comeback in New Orleans restaurants, where they're offered as both savory and sweet dishes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Italy has two pre-Lenten fried confections: Both \u003cem>castagnoles\u003c/em>, fried cake puffs soaked in liqueur, and \u003cem>cenci\u003c/em> (also called \u003cem>frappe\u003c/em>), crispy strips of fried pastry similar to funnel cake, are enjoyed during \u003cem>Carnevale\u003c/em>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As it goes with traditional recipes that have undergone many relocations, transitions and generations, there are many variations and not one definitive source for all of these varying Carnival delights. No matter which you chose, celebrate next Tuesday the way it's supposed to be — with a hearty helping of dough and fat.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"paczki\">\u003c/a>Paczki\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Polish paczki are dense yet puffy fruit-filled doughnuts that have become a Fat Tuesday mainstay in Polish communities across the United States. They're traditionally filled with rose hip jam or stewed plums, but you can use your favorite jam. This recipe is adapted from \u003c/em>Polish Heritage Cookery\u003cem> by Robert and Maria Stybel (Hippocrene, 2005).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78637\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1536px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutspaczki_custom-42eb4a41eddf1317c88322fab4bb0064dcde4c3a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutspaczki_custom-42eb4a41eddf1317c88322fab4bb0064dcde4c3a.jpg\" alt=\"Paczki. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\" width=\"1536\" height=\"1023\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78637\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Paczki. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes approximately 2 dozen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 packets active dry yeast\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup whole milk, lukewarm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus additional for rolling\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon white sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 large egg yolks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2/3 cup powdered sugar, plus more for dusting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons rum\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 stick salted butter, melted and lukewarm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Canola oil for frying (or lard for a more traditional paczki)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Jam for filling\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium bowl, dissolve yeast in lukewarm milk. Sift in 1 cup of the flour and the white sugar. Whisk together, cover and let stand in a warm place to let rise, 5 to 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Using a stand mixer, or whisk and large bowl, beat the egg yolks with powdered sugar and vanilla until fluffy. In a large bowl, sift remaining flour, add yeast mixture, egg mixture and rum.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Knead dough until it is smooth and glossy. Return to the bowl and mix in melted butter and continue to knead until dough no longer clings to the hands and bowl and air bubbles begin to appear.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cover bowl with cloth and let rise in a warm place until doubled, about 1 hour. Punch dough down and let it rise again, about 45 minutes. Transfer dough to a floured surface, and roll out about 1/2-inch thick. With a biscuit cutter, cut into rounds. Place on a baking sheet covered with parchment paper and cover with a cloth while you heat the oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour oil into a deep, heavy saucepan with high sides, until about 3 inches deep. Bring to 360 to 375 degrees F over medium heat. Working in batches, fry paczki until puffed and golden brown, about 2 minutes on each side. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and let cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once cool, insert a small hole into the side of the doughnut and fill with jam using a pastry bag. Dust with powdered sugar and eat fresh.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"fasnacht\">\u003c/a>Fasnacht (Or Fastnacht)\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Fastnachts are yeasted doughnuts of German descent that bear the same name as the traditional pre-Lenten celebration, which translates as \"fast night.\" They typically have no hole or filling and are dusted with powdered sugar. This recipe, like many Pennsylvania Dutch recipes for fasnacht, uses powdered sugar. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78638\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1536px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsfasnacht_enl-2e4a25232d0654a41291aacecc9cda63c12b4136.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsfasnacht_enl-2e4a25232d0654a41291aacecc9cda63c12b4136.jpg\" alt=\"Fasnacht. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\" width=\"1536\" height=\"1023\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78638\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fasnacht. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes approximately 2 dozen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 packet active dry yeast\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup whole milk, lukewarm\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup sugar, plus a pinch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup mashed potatoes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large egg, beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Canola oil for frying (or traditionally, lard)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Powdered sugar, for dusting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm milk, add a pinch of sugar and whisk together. Set aside in a warm place to rise, 5 to 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl or in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine flour, mashed potatoes, 1/2 cup sugar and salt. Add the yeast mixture, butter and beaten egg. Mix together until combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turn the dough out on a floured surface and knead until the dough is elastic and not sticky, about 3 to 4 minutes. Roll out dough about 1/2-inch thick and cut into squares (a round biscuit cutter is also OK, though squares are traditional).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the cut doughnuts on a floured cookie sheet, cover with a cloth, and let rise 30 to 40 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Meanwhile, in a deep, heavy saucepan with high sides, pour oil about 3 inches deep. Bring to 360-375 degrees F over medium heat. Working in batches, fry fasnacht until puffed and golden brown, about 2 minutes on each side. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and let cool.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once cool, dust with powdered sugar and serve warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"beignets\">\u003c/a>Beignets\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Beignets are the classic pillowy, fried dough confections traditionally eaten at French Mardi Gras celebrations and now ubiquitous in Louisiana and other areas of the South. I recommend making the dough the night before so you can fry and eat them fresh first thing the next morning. This recipe is adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://whatscookingamerica.net/History/BeignetsHistory.htm\">What's Cooking America\u003c/a>.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78639\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1539px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsbeignets_custom-fa9cf533a0937def36e01073c658044821c6baef.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutsbeignets_custom-fa9cf533a0937def36e01073c658044821c6baef.jpg\" alt=\"Beignets. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\" width=\"1539\" height=\"1022\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78639\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Beignets. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 18 to 24 beignets\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup lukewarm water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 teaspoons active dry yeast\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup white sugar, plus a pinch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 large egg, beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup evaporated milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vegetable oil for deep-frying\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Powdered sugar for dusting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium bowl, place water, yeast and pinch of sugar. Whisk together and let sit to dissolve yeast, 5 to 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl or bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine flour, 1/4 cup sugar and salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add yeast mixture and stir until incorporated. Add egg, butter and evaporated milk and mix until well combined and dough is smooth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove dough from bowl and roll out onto a lightly oiled surface. Form dough into a ball and place in a lightly greased bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled, 3 to 4 hours or overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Once chilled, remove dough from the refrigerator and roll out on a lightly floured surface about 1/2-inch thick. Cut into squares and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Cover with a cloth and set aside while you heat the oil.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a deep heavy saucepan with high sides, heat 3 inches of oil to 360-375 degrees F. Working in batches, fry the beignets for 2 minutes on each side, until puffed and golden brown. Using a wire skimmer or slotted spatula, transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Transfer to a baking sheet and let cool completely. Dust with powdered sugar and serve warm or at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cenci\">\u003c/a>Cenci\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Different from the other recipes featured here, Italian \u003c/em>cenci\u003cem> (literally, \"rags\") are strips of fried pastry that are said to have been made from leftover scraps of dough. They are known by different names across Italy and are akin to elephant ears or funnel cake in the United States. This recipe is adapted from \u003c/em>Cucina Povera: Tuscan Peasant Cooking\u003cem> by Pamela Sheldon Johns (Andrews McMeel, 2011).\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78640\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1592px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutscenci_custom-6cc92f7d6c3e1bc704dfbe4774e2016216e23c57.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/doughnutscenci_custom-6cc92f7d6c3e1bc704dfbe4774e2016216e23c57.jpg\" alt=\"Cenci. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\" width=\"1592\" height=\"988\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78640\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cenci. Photo: Emily Hilliard/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 3 dozen\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup white sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup sparkling water, dry white wine or vin santo\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Grated zest of 1 lemon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vegetable oil for deep-frying\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Powdered sugar for dusting\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl or bowl of a stand mixer, combine the sugar, eggs and butter. Beat with a wooden spoon or stand mixer until creamy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Stir in the sparkling water or wine, lemon zest and salt. Stir in the flour, blending until well-combined and dough is stiff, though sticky. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough out to a thickness of 1/8 inch. Using a fluted pastry wheel, cut the dough into 1-by-3-inch strips. Make a cut down the center of each strip, leaving the ends attached.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a deep heavy saucepan with high sides, heat 3 inches of oil to 360-375 degrees F. Working in batches, fry the pastry for 3 to 4 minutes, or until golden. Using a wire skimmer or slotted spatula, transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Transfer to a baking sheet and let cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Dust with powdered sugar and serve warm or at room temperature. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>About the Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Emily Hilliard is a folklorist and writer living in Washington, D.C. She writes the pie blog \u003ca href=\"http://www.nothinginthehouse.com/\">Nothing-in-the-House\u003c/a> and recently released the cookbook \u003ca href=\"http://www.etsy.com/listing/113875269/pie-a-hand-drawn-almanac\">PIE. A Hand Drawn Almanac\u003c/a> with illustrator \u003ca href=\"http://www.elizabethgraeber.com/\">Elizabeth Graeber\u003c/a>. Find more of Emily's work on \u003ca href=\"http://emilyehilliard.com/\">her website\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/78635/fat-tuesday-the-many-different-doughnuts-of-mardi-gras","authors":["byline_bayareabites_78635"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_1653","bayareabites_12550","bayareabites_1763","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_9065","bayareabites_2889","bayareabites_11086","bayareabites_9064"],"featImg":"bayareabites_78645","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_78408":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_78408","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"78408","score":null,"sort":[1392910210000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"once-exotic-now-ubiquitous-bananas-deserve-a-bunch-more-respect","title":"Once Exotic, Now Ubiquitous, Bananas Deserve a Bunch More Respect","publishDate":1392910210,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78409\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1675px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananasmain_wide-430ab70b4e81e4977d2f2a1d107063a891bf3b69.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananasmain_wide-430ab70b4e81e4977d2f2a1d107063a891bf3b69.jpg\" alt=\"Bananas can be used in lots of recipes. Photo: iStockphoto\" width=\"1675\" height=\"940\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78409\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bananas can be used in lots of recipes. Photo: iStockphoto\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Laura B. Weiss, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/02/18/279217361/once-exotic-now-ubiquitous-bananas-deserve-a-bunch-more-respect\" target=\"_blank\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/19/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#pie\">Banana Cream Pie\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#caramelized\">Caramelized Bananas With Nuts And Orange Liqueur\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#smoothie\">Banana Berry Smoothie With Almond Milk\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#pancakes\">Whole-Wheat Blueberry Banana Pancakes\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's more American than apple pie? It's that familiar yellow-skinned fruit that, well, we all go bananas over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Americans down more bananas than any other fruit — in fact, about 25 pounds a year, according to the Census Bureau. I'm among those legions of banana fans. In fact, I've been a die-hard banana enthusiast since childhood when, afflicted with food allergies, bananas were one of the few fruits I could eat. I still recall my mother standing by the stove, lapping sliced bananas in a pan with a simple but sublime sauce made from honey and butter. As the dish cooked, deeply fragrant caramel and floral notes wafted through our kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although bananas are creamy, delicious and full of nutrients such as potassium and vitamin B6, the tropical fruit suffers from a persistent image problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The banana is the McDonald's hamburger of fruit,\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/08/30/139787380/bananas-the-uncertain-future-of-a-favorite-fruit\">says Dan Koeppel\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>Banana: The Fate of the Fruit That Changed the World\u003c/em>. \"It's cheap and it's ubiquitous.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, most of us take the banana for granted. They're what you slice onto your breakfast cereal. They're the butt of jokes (\"There's \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJ1a0ymGCKA\">a banana in my ear\u003c/a>!\"). They're available all year-round — an inexpensive food item that can't seem to match the allure of today's more trendy fruity offerings, such as the pomegranate or the goji berry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what I like best about the banana — which is a seedless berry, not a fruit, and the up-to-25 foot high \"tree\" is actually a giant herbaceous plant — is its versatility, especially when it comes to cooking. Indeed, there are a lot more things to do with bananas than peeling and eating them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bake bananas into that old bake-sale standby banana bread, moist and fragrant and studded with nuts and raisins. But don't stop there. Need something to enrich your pancake batter? Fold in some sliced bananas with blueberries or peaches. Or layer them in a cream-laden custard for a decadent banana cream pie. Then there's fritters, where the crunchy exterior plays off the molten bananas within. Swirl them in a blender to make daiquiris, and puree them in your morning smoothie for a dash of richness. (Are bananas fattening? You be the judge: A medium banana has 105 calories, but because of their rich taste and high fiber content, you feel full after eating one.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bananas play well with savory ingredients, too. Add curry and bananas to chicken, and plain old poultry morphs into a tropical delight, or prepare fish with bananas, a bit of coconut milk and some herbs, a bit of cumin or ginger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It may now seem far-fetched, but the banana was once considered wildly exotic. First cultivated in ancient times in Southeast Asia, bananas arrived in Europe \u003ca href=\"http://cwh.ucsc.edu/bananas/Site/Early%20History%20of%20the%20Banana.html\">in the 15th century\u003c/a>. Until the late 19th century, the sunny yellow fruit was virtually unknown in the U.S. When bananas did arrive, they caused a huge sensation. At the 1876 Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia, the display of towering banana plants was so popular that a guard was posted to keep gawking fairgoers from pulling it apart for souvenirs, writes Virginia Scott Jenkins in \u003cem>Bananas: An American History\u003c/em>.\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't long before bananas — hundreds can hang from a single tree — became cheap and abundant. Their popularity meant that large U.S. growers, such as United Fruit Co., gobbled up land in Central America to expand their plantations to meet the growing demand. During the early 20th century, the U.S. intervened several times in order to support these economic interests. This is when the term \"banana republic\" was coined to describe a corrupt dictatorship whose government was controlled by American growers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Americans mostly know only one variety of bananas — the Cavendish. That's the familiar sweet or dessert banana. But there's also the plantain, or cooking banana, with its higher starch content. Beyond that, more than 1,000 red, blue, even black bananas with varied tastes and textures grow throughout the tropics, from Africa to South America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the familiar, reliable Cavendish is in trouble. \u003ca href=\"http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2013/11/131104092734.htm\">A virulent fungus\u003c/a>, which killed off the Gros Michel, an earlier common banana variety, poses a threat to the worldwide crop. Is there a danger that the banana Americans love could become extinct? It would \"take a long time\" before that happens, says Koeppel, and \"hopefully they'll find a replacement variety.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to storing bananas, as just about everyone knows, they typically start out a bit green, then turn a sunny yellow. After a few days, they develop brown spots, but that's when they're perfect for baking or folding into smoothies for dessert or breakfast — and that's my favorite way to give the humble banana its due.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca name=\"pie\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Banana Cream Pie\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe appeared in \u003c/em>Bon Appetit'\u003cem>s February 2003 issue, but it actually hails from McEwen's in Memphis, Tenn., whose banana cream pies are legendary. In this version, I reduced the sugar and increased the bananas for a more banana-y flavor. Though a plain pie crust is traditional, I used a chocolate cookie crumb crust instead. I find the chocolate contrasts nicely with the sweet custard.\u003c/em>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78411\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1449px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananapie-3992e01975e68ab82f7620eb51e146b231980e1a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananapie-3992e01975e68ab82f7620eb51e146b231980e1a.jpg\" alt=\"Banana Cream Pie. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/ NPR\" width=\"1449\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78411\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banana Cream Pie. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/ NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 8 to 10 servings\u003c/em>\u003cbr> \u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crust\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>35 packaged chocolate cookies (such as chocolate wafers) to make 1 ½ cups crumbs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Filling\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup cornstarch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups whipping cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 large egg yolks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 vanilla bean, split in half lengthwise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 ripe bananas, peeled, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick coins\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the crust, place the cookies, melted butter and salt in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Pulse the crumbs 12 to 14 times until the crumbs are the consistency of cornmeal. If you prefer finer ones, pulse one or two additional times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour the crumbs into a 9-inch pie plate. With your fingers, distribute the crumbs evenly around the pie plate. Be sure the crumbs reach all the way up the sides of the pie plate and cover the bottom completely. Press the crumbs down against the plate with the heel of your hand or with an offset spatula.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Refrigerate the crust for 1 hour or place it in the freezer for a half-hour covered tightly with plastic wrap. (I like to freeze the crust before filling it with the custard. It makes it firmer and holds the custard better.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bake the crust for 10 to 15 minutes. Cool the crust completely before filling. (You can wrap and freeze the crust for up to a month.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the filling, whisk the sugar, cornstarch and salt in a large saucepan until it is well-combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gradually whisk in a small amount of the cream, whisking thoroughly so that there are no lumps, over low heat\u003cem>. \u003c/em>Add the rest of the cream and the whole milk, whisking continuously to avoid lumps. Add the egg yolks and keep whisking. You should wind up with a smooth custard without lumps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a paring knife, carefully cut the vanilla bean vertically down the center and scrape the seeds onto a plate. Add the vanilla beans and pod to the mixture. Whisk the custard over medium-high heat until the custard thickens and boils. Be careful not to burn the custard. This should take 4 to 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the custard from the heat. Remove the vanilla pod. Whisk in the unsalted butter and the vanilla extract. Pour the custard into a large bowl and refrigerate. Let the custard cool completely in the refrigerator. It will thicken in about an hour\u003cem>. \u003c/em>(If it's too thick, thin it with a bit of cream.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you're ready to assemble the pie, whisk the custard briefly then spread 1 cup of custard over the bottom of the chocolate cookie crust. Top with half of the sliced bananas. Pour 1 cup of the custard over the bananas making sure to cover the fruit completely. Repeat until you have used up all of the custard and bananas. Chill the banana cream pie for 2 hours. Top the pie with whipped cream and decorate the pie with banana slices. Cut the pie into wedges and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca name=\"caramelized\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Caramelized Bananas With Nuts And Orange Liqueur\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This preparation, adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/recipes/caramelized_bananas.html\">a 2004 \u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/recipes/caramelized_bananas.html\">Eating Well\u003c/a>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/recipes/caramelized_bananas.html\"> recipe\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003cem>, cooks the bananas quickly so they don't become mushy. The original recipe calls for rum, as do many other sautéed and baked banana recipes. But I prefer orange liqueur for the citrusy notes it brings to the dish. I like the addition of nuts for a bit of crunch.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78410\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1674px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananafoster_wide-b070b2978f1fa3965513ddd23926f522c3e22482.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananafoster_wide-b070b2978f1fa3965513ddd23926f522c3e22482.jpg\" alt=\"Caramelized Bananas With Nuts And Orange Liqueur. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1674\" height=\"940\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78410\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Caramelized Bananas With Nuts And Orange Liqueur. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 medium firm bananas, peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons dark brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons honey\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup pecans or walnuts chopped very roughly\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup orange liqueur\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/8 teaspoon cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vanilla ice cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut the bananas in half crosswise, then again lengthwise. (This will make them easier to handle while cooking them.) Set the bananas aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the brown sugar and honey and heat until the mixture just begins to caramelize, about 2 minutes. Saute the nuts for about 2 minutes in the butter-sugar mixture until they are well coated. Remove the nuts from the pan and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the banana slices on top of the sauce, flat side facing up. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes or long enough so that the bananas have a nutty brown coating, but not so long that the bananas become mushy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turn each banana slice carefully with a spatula and cook them cut side down for 1 minute.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the bananas from the heat and add the orange liqueur and cinnamon. Place the pan back on the heat. Cook the bananas for about 1 minute longer in the sauce, basting them as they cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the bananas on a serving plate or on dessert plates. Spoon the sauce on top of the bananas. Top with the nuts. Serve immediately with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca name=\"smoothie\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Banana Berry Smoothie With Almond Milk\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can easily use fresh fruit in this recipe, but then you'll want to refrigerate the smoothie to chill it. I use frozen fruit so that I can drink the smoothie right away. With all the vegans and dairy intolerant people in my family, almond milk is my choice, but you could use milk or yogurt as well.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78412\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1447px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananasmoothie-535637f6cc40c437c067e978f51bad545154000c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananasmoothie-535637f6cc40c437c067e978f51bad545154000c.jpg\" alt=\"Banana Berry Smoothie With Almond Milk. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1447\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78412\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banana Berry Smoothie With Almond Milk. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 large servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 ripe bananas cut into pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup frozen strawberries\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup frozen blueberries\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups almond milk, cold\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon honey\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup orange juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the fruit, almond milk, honey and orange juice into the container of a blender and blend until smooth. If you don't drink the smoothie immediately, place it in the refrigerator. If the smoothie becomes too thick, thin it with some additional almond milk.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca name=\"pancakes\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Whole-Wheat Blueberry Banana Pancakes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is a combination of many pancake recipes I've tried over the years. The bananas are added to what's otherwise a classic blueberry pancake recipe. You could easily substitute peaches, raspberries or any other fruit for the blueberries and regular or soy milk for all or part of the buttermilk. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78413\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1447px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananapancakes-51786c2001b66d7c9941fd7a37ea339bba04ea3c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananapancakes-51786c2001b66d7c9941fd7a37ea339bba04ea3c.jpg\" alt=\"Whole Wheat Blueberry Banana Pancakes. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1447\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78413\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Whole Wheat Blueberry Banana Pancakes. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups whole-wheat pastry flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon baking powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup buttermilk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large eggs, lightly beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon honey\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter, melted (melt in the microwave)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 to 2 bananas sliced into 1/2-inch coins\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups blueberries\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maple syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the pancake batter, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a large bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In another bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, milk, eggs, honey and melted butter. Add to the flour mixture. Stir all the ingredients until they are just combined. Lumps in pancake batter are perfectly fine. If you overmix the batter, the pancakes will be tough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt a tablespoon of butter in a large skillet. Using a small ladle or a 1/2 cup measure, pour some batter into the pan. (If the skillet is large enough, you may be able to make as many as 4 small pancakes at a time, but be careful not to crowd them.) Drop four slices of bananas and 4 to 6 blueberries onto each pancake. When the edges have set and bubbles start to appear, flip the pancake with a spatula and cook the other side about 3 minutes. (To keep the pancakes from tearing, try to resist the temptation to flip them more than once.) Repeat this process with the remaining batter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve with maple syrup. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>About the Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Laura B. Weiss' work has appeared in numerous national publications, including \u003cem>The New York Times,\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/Kitchen/History-New-England-Indian-Pudding\">Saveur\u003c/a>,\u003cem> Travel + Leisure, \u003c/em>and on the Food Network website. She's a contributor to \u003ca href=\"http://designwire.interiordesign.net/events/15485/young-chinese-designers-make-western-debut\">Interior Design\u003c/a>\u003cem>'s\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>blog\u003cem> \u003c/em>and\u003cem> \u003c/em>was an editor for the \u003cem>Zagat Long Island Restaurant Guide\u003c/em> \u003cem>2009-2011. \u003c/em>Laura is the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ice-Cream-Global-History-Reaktion/dp/1861897928\">Ice Cream: A Global History\u003c/a>. Follow Laura on Twitter, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Foodandthings\" target=\"_blank\">@foodandthings\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"They're creamy, delicious, full of nutrients — and, as a crop, they have a complex history. But banana enthusiast Laura B. Weiss keeps it simple in her appreciation of America's No. 1 fruit, with sweet suggestions for breakfast and dessert.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1392873359,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":93,"wordCount":2341},"headData":{"title":"Once Exotic, Now Ubiquitous, Bananas Deserve a Bunch More Respect | KQED","description":"They're creamy, delicious, full of nutrients — and, as a crop, they have a complex history. But banana enthusiast Laura B. Weiss keeps it simple in her appreciation of America's No. 1 fruit, with sweet suggestions for breakfast and dessert.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Once Exotic, Now Ubiquitous, Bananas Deserve a Bunch More Respect","datePublished":"2014-02-20T15:30:10.000Z","dateModified":"2014-02-20T05:15:59.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"78408 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=78408","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/02/20/once-exotic-now-ubiquitous-bananas-deserve-a-bunch-more-respect/","disqusTitle":"Once Exotic, Now Ubiquitous, Bananas Deserve a Bunch More Respect","nprByline":"Laura B. Weiss","nprStoryId":"279217361","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=279217361&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/2014/02/18/279217361/once-exotic-now-ubiquitous-bananas-deserve-a-bunch-more-respect?ft=3&f=279217361","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 19 Feb 2014 09:38:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 19 Feb 2014 09:26:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 19 Feb 2014 09:38:03 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/78408/once-exotic-now-ubiquitous-bananas-deserve-a-bunch-more-respect","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78409\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1675px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananasmain_wide-430ab70b4e81e4977d2f2a1d107063a891bf3b69.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananasmain_wide-430ab70b4e81e4977d2f2a1d107063a891bf3b69.jpg\" alt=\"Bananas can be used in lots of recipes. Photo: iStockphoto\" width=\"1675\" height=\"940\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78409\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bananas can be used in lots of recipes. Photo: iStockphoto\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Laura B. Weiss, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/02/18/279217361/once-exotic-now-ubiquitous-bananas-deserve-a-bunch-more-respect\" target=\"_blank\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/19/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#pie\">Banana Cream Pie\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#caramelized\">Caramelized Bananas With Nuts And Orange Liqueur\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#smoothie\">Banana Berry Smoothie With Almond Milk\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#pancakes\">Whole-Wheat Blueberry Banana Pancakes\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>What's more American than apple pie? It's that familiar yellow-skinned fruit that, well, we all go bananas over.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Americans down more bananas than any other fruit — in fact, about 25 pounds a year, according to the Census Bureau. I'm among those legions of banana fans. In fact, I've been a die-hard banana enthusiast since childhood when, afflicted with food allergies, bananas were one of the few fruits I could eat. I still recall my mother standing by the stove, lapping sliced bananas in a pan with a simple but sublime sauce made from honey and butter. As the dish cooked, deeply fragrant caramel and floral notes wafted through our kitchen.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Although bananas are creamy, delicious and full of nutrients such as potassium and vitamin B6, the tropical fruit suffers from a persistent image problem.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\"The banana is the McDonald's hamburger of fruit,\" \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/08/30/139787380/bananas-the-uncertain-future-of-a-favorite-fruit\">says Dan Koeppel\u003c/a>, author of \u003cem>Banana: The Fate of the Fruit That Changed the World\u003c/em>. \"It's cheap and it's ubiquitous.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Indeed, most of us take the banana for granted. They're what you slice onto your breakfast cereal. They're the butt of jokes (\"There's \u003ca href=\"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJ1a0ymGCKA\">a banana in my ear\u003c/a>!\"). They're available all year-round — an inexpensive food item that can't seem to match the allure of today's more trendy fruity offerings, such as the pomegranate or the goji berry.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But what I like best about the banana — which is a seedless berry, not a fruit, and the up-to-25 foot high \"tree\" is actually a giant herbaceous plant — is its versatility, especially when it comes to cooking. Indeed, there are a lot more things to do with bananas than peeling and eating them.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bake bananas into that old bake-sale standby banana bread, moist and fragrant and studded with nuts and raisins. But don't stop there. Need something to enrich your pancake batter? Fold in some sliced bananas with blueberries or peaches. Or layer them in a cream-laden custard for a decadent banana cream pie. Then there's fritters, where the crunchy exterior plays off the molten bananas within. Swirl them in a blender to make daiquiris, and puree them in your morning smoothie for a dash of richness. (Are bananas fattening? You be the judge: A medium banana has 105 calories, but because of their rich taste and high fiber content, you feel full after eating one.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bananas play well with savory ingredients, too. Add curry and bananas to chicken, and plain old poultry morphs into a tropical delight, or prepare fish with bananas, a bit of coconut milk and some herbs, a bit of cumin or ginger.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It may now seem far-fetched, but the banana was once considered wildly exotic. First cultivated in ancient times in Southeast Asia, bananas arrived in Europe \u003ca href=\"http://cwh.ucsc.edu/bananas/Site/Early%20History%20of%20the%20Banana.html\">in the 15th century\u003c/a>. Until the late 19th century, the sunny yellow fruit was virtually unknown in the U.S. When bananas did arrive, they caused a huge sensation. At the 1876 Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia, the display of towering banana plants was so popular that a guard was posted to keep gawking fairgoers from pulling it apart for souvenirs, writes Virginia Scott Jenkins in \u003cem>Bananas: An American History\u003c/em>.\u003cem> \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>It wasn't long before bananas — hundreds can hang from a single tree — became cheap and abundant. Their popularity meant that large U.S. growers, such as United Fruit Co., gobbled up land in Central America to expand their plantations to meet the growing demand. During the early 20th century, the U.S. intervened several times in order to support these economic interests. This is when the term \"banana republic\" was coined to describe a corrupt dictatorship whose government was controlled by American growers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Today, Americans mostly know only one variety of bananas — the Cavendish. That's the familiar sweet or dessert banana. But there's also the plantain, or cooking banana, with its higher starch content. Beyond that, more than 1,000 red, blue, even black bananas with varied tastes and textures grow throughout the tropics, from Africa to South America.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But the familiar, reliable Cavendish is in trouble. \u003ca href=\"http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2013/11/131104092734.htm\">A virulent fungus\u003c/a>, which killed off the Gros Michel, an earlier common banana variety, poses a threat to the worldwide crop. Is there a danger that the banana Americans love could become extinct? It would \"take a long time\" before that happens, says Koeppel, and \"hopefully they'll find a replacement variety.\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When it comes to storing bananas, as just about everyone knows, they typically start out a bit green, then turn a sunny yellow. After a few days, they develop brown spots, but that's when they're perfect for baking or folding into smoothies for dessert or breakfast — and that's my favorite way to give the humble banana its due.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca name=\"pie\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Banana Cream Pie\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This recipe appeared in \u003c/em>Bon Appetit'\u003cem>s February 2003 issue, but it actually hails from McEwen's in Memphis, Tenn., whose banana cream pies are legendary. In this version, I reduced the sugar and increased the bananas for a more banana-y flavor. Though a plain pie crust is traditional, I used a chocolate cookie crumb crust instead. I find the chocolate contrasts nicely with the sweet custard.\u003c/em>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78411\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1449px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananapie-3992e01975e68ab82f7620eb51e146b231980e1a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananapie-3992e01975e68ab82f7620eb51e146b231980e1a.jpg\" alt=\"Banana Cream Pie. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/ NPR\" width=\"1449\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78411\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banana Cream Pie. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/ NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 8 to 10 servings\u003c/em>\u003cbr> \u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crust\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>35 packaged chocolate cookies (such as chocolate wafers) to make 1 ½ cups crumbs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Filling\u003c/strong>\u003cstrong>\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup cornstarch\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups whipping cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 large egg yolks\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 vanilla bean, split in half lengthwise\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 ripe bananas, peeled, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick coins\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the crust, place the cookies, melted butter and salt in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Pulse the crumbs 12 to 14 times until the crumbs are the consistency of cornmeal. If you prefer finer ones, pulse one or two additional times.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour the crumbs into a 9-inch pie plate. With your fingers, distribute the crumbs evenly around the pie plate. Be sure the crumbs reach all the way up the sides of the pie plate and cover the bottom completely. Press the crumbs down against the plate with the heel of your hand or with an offset spatula.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Refrigerate the crust for 1 hour or place it in the freezer for a half-hour covered tightly with plastic wrap. (I like to freeze the crust before filling it with the custard. It makes it firmer and holds the custard better.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bake the crust for 10 to 15 minutes. Cool the crust completely before filling. (You can wrap and freeze the crust for up to a month.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the filling, whisk the sugar, cornstarch and salt in a large saucepan until it is well-combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gradually whisk in a small amount of the cream, whisking thoroughly so that there are no lumps, over low heat\u003cem>. \u003c/em>Add the rest of the cream and the whole milk, whisking continuously to avoid lumps. Add the egg yolks and keep whisking. You should wind up with a smooth custard without lumps.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With a paring knife, carefully cut the vanilla bean vertically down the center and scrape the seeds onto a plate. Add the vanilla beans and pod to the mixture. Whisk the custard over medium-high heat until the custard thickens and boils. Be careful not to burn the custard. This should take 4 to 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the custard from the heat. Remove the vanilla pod. Whisk in the unsalted butter and the vanilla extract. Pour the custard into a large bowl and refrigerate. Let the custard cool completely in the refrigerator. It will thicken in about an hour\u003cem>. \u003c/em>(If it's too thick, thin it with a bit of cream.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you're ready to assemble the pie, whisk the custard briefly then spread 1 cup of custard over the bottom of the chocolate cookie crust. Top with half of the sliced bananas. Pour 1 cup of the custard over the bananas making sure to cover the fruit completely. Repeat until you have used up all of the custard and bananas. Chill the banana cream pie for 2 hours. Top the pie with whipped cream and decorate the pie with banana slices. Cut the pie into wedges and serve.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca name=\"caramelized\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Caramelized Bananas With Nuts And Orange Liqueur\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This preparation, adapted from \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/recipes/caramelized_bananas.html\">a 2004 \u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/recipes/caramelized_bananas.html\">Eating Well\u003c/a>\u003cem>\u003ca href=\"http://www.eatingwell.com/recipes/caramelized_bananas.html\"> recipe\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003cem>, cooks the bananas quickly so they don't become mushy. The original recipe calls for rum, as do many other sautéed and baked banana recipes. But I prefer orange liqueur for the citrusy notes it brings to the dish. I like the addition of nuts for a bit of crunch.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78410\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1674px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananafoster_wide-b070b2978f1fa3965513ddd23926f522c3e22482.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananafoster_wide-b070b2978f1fa3965513ddd23926f522c3e22482.jpg\" alt=\"Caramelized Bananas With Nuts And Orange Liqueur. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1674\" height=\"940\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78410\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Caramelized Bananas With Nuts And Orange Liqueur. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 medium firm bananas, peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons dark brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons honey\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup pecans or walnuts chopped very roughly\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup orange liqueur\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/8 teaspoon cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Vanilla ice cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cut the bananas in half crosswise, then again lengthwise. (This will make them easier to handle while cooking them.) Set the bananas aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the brown sugar and honey and heat until the mixture just begins to caramelize, about 2 minutes. Saute the nuts for about 2 minutes in the butter-sugar mixture until they are well coated. Remove the nuts from the pan and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the banana slices on top of the sauce, flat side facing up. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes or long enough so that the bananas have a nutty brown coating, but not so long that the bananas become mushy.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Turn each banana slice carefully with a spatula and cook them cut side down for 1 minute.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the bananas from the heat and add the orange liqueur and cinnamon. Place the pan back on the heat. Cook the bananas for about 1 minute longer in the sauce, basting them as they cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the bananas on a serving plate or on dessert plates. Spoon the sauce on top of the bananas. Top with the nuts. Serve immediately with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca name=\"smoothie\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Banana Berry Smoothie With Almond Milk\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can easily use fresh fruit in this recipe, but then you'll want to refrigerate the smoothie to chill it. I use frozen fruit so that I can drink the smoothie right away. With all the vegans and dairy intolerant people in my family, almond milk is my choice, but you could use milk or yogurt as well.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78412\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1447px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananasmoothie-535637f6cc40c437c067e978f51bad545154000c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananasmoothie-535637f6cc40c437c067e978f51bad545154000c.jpg\" alt=\"Banana Berry Smoothie With Almond Milk. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1447\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78412\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banana Berry Smoothie With Almond Milk. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 large servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 ripe bananas cut into pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup frozen strawberries\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup frozen blueberries\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups almond milk, cold\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon honey\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup orange juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the fruit, almond milk, honey and orange juice into the container of a blender and blend until smooth. If you don't drink the smoothie immediately, place it in the refrigerator. If the smoothie becomes too thick, thin it with some additional almond milk.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cp>\u003ca name=\"pancakes\">\u003c/a>\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>Whole-Wheat Blueberry Banana Pancakes\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is a combination of many pancake recipes I've tried over the years. The bananas are added to what's otherwise a classic blueberry pancake recipe. You could easily substitute peaches, raspberries or any other fruit for the blueberries and regular or soy milk for all or part of the buttermilk. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78413\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1447px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananapancakes-51786c2001b66d7c9941fd7a37ea339bba04ea3c.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/bananapancakes-51786c2001b66d7c9941fd7a37ea339bba04ea3c.jpg\" alt=\"Whole Wheat Blueberry Banana Pancakes. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\" width=\"1447\" height=\"1086\" class=\"size-full wp-image-78413\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Whole Wheat Blueberry Banana Pancakes. Photo: Laura B. Weiss/NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups whole-wheat pastry flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon baking powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup buttermilk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large eggs, lightly beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon honey\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons butter, melted (melt in the microwave)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 to 2 bananas sliced into 1/2-inch coins\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups blueberries\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Maple syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>To make the pancake batter, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a large bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In another bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, milk, eggs, honey and melted butter. Add to the flour mixture. Stir all the ingredients until they are just combined. Lumps in pancake batter are perfectly fine. If you overmix the batter, the pancakes will be tough.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Melt a tablespoon of butter in a large skillet. Using a small ladle or a 1/2 cup measure, pour some batter into the pan. (If the skillet is large enough, you may be able to make as many as 4 small pancakes at a time, but be careful not to crowd them.) Drop four slices of bananas and 4 to 6 blueberries onto each pancake. When the edges have set and bubbles start to appear, flip the pancake with a spatula and cook the other side about 3 minutes. (To keep the pancakes from tearing, try to resist the temptation to flip them more than once.) Repeat this process with the remaining batter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve with maple syrup. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>About the Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Laura B. Weiss' work has appeared in numerous national publications, including \u003cem>The New York Times,\u003c/em> \u003ca href=\"http://www.saveur.com/article/Kitchen/History-New-England-Indian-Pudding\">Saveur\u003c/a>,\u003cem> Travel + Leisure, \u003c/em>and on the Food Network website. She's a contributor to \u003ca href=\"http://designwire.interiordesign.net/events/15485/young-chinese-designers-make-western-debut\">Interior Design\u003c/a>\u003cem>'s\u003c/em>\u003cem> \u003c/em>blog\u003cem> \u003c/em>and\u003cem> \u003c/em>was an editor for the \u003cem>Zagat Long Island Restaurant Guide\u003c/em> \u003cem>2009-2011. \u003c/em>Laura is the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Ice-Cream-Global-History-Reaktion/dp/1861897928\">Ice Cream: A Global History\u003c/a>. Follow Laura on Twitter, \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/Foodandthings\" target=\"_blank\">@foodandthings\u003c/a>. \u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/78408/once-exotic-now-ubiquitous-bananas-deserve-a-bunch-more-respect","authors":["byline_bayareabites_78408"],"categories":["bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_2203","bayareabites_11086","bayareabites_14738"],"featImg":"bayareabites_78420","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_78225":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_78225","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"78225","score":null,"sort":[1392334159000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"valentine-hearts-that-are-meant-to-be-broken","title":"Valentine Hearts That Are Meant To Be Broken","publishDate":1392334159,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78226\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/valentine-s-overall-1_enl-84b3950b7ec257b4c02a274f1d4d238ddb899c2a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/valentine-s-overall-1_enl-84b3950b7ec257b4c02a274f1d4d238ddb899c2a-1024x686.jpg\" alt=\"An assortment of marbled Valentine's cookies. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\" width=\"1024\" height=\"686\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78226\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An assortment of marbled Valentine's cookies. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\" target=\"_blank\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/02/12/275356369/valentine-hearts-that-are-meant-to-be-broken\" target=\"_blank\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/12/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#gingerbread\">Thin Crisp Gingerbread Cookies\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#shortbread\">Shortbread Hearts\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#icing\">Royal Icing\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In first grade, my heart was stolen by Mark, who sat next to me and had an advanced phonics book (which I also craved). Then there were Peter, Eddie, Raja and Michael. These serial crushes continued right on up through my early 20s, at a rate of approximately three a year. Boys. I fell for their incipient mustaches, their bad attitudes and foul mouths, their poor poetry and bass guitars, their careless humor. I saw their swagger for what it was, but I loved it anyway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you're a kid, conversation hearts, waxy chocolates and powdery-smelling carnations are the currency of Valentine's Day. (That and a broken heart or two.) But a few years ago, my young daughter and I started a new tradition — one a whole lot tastier, and not dependent on the fickle affection of boys. We started baking gingerbread Valentine hearts — magnificent, ephemeral delights we learned to decorate from a book (Julia Usher's \u003cem>Cookie Swap\u003c/em>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now Valentine's brings happy afternoons in the kitchen while the late-winter sun slants in, illuminating the dots and paisleys of our edible treasures. We marble the wet icing with toothpicks or darning needles and stud them with dragées and luster dust. We brush-embroider lines of icing into flower petals with a sheared-off old paintbox brush. We labor over every cookie, just as if it weren't going to vanish in two bites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we work, I surreptitiously watch my 7-year-old, so like me in so many ways, for symptoms of the romantic affliction, for signs that a Hunter or Oscar or Elijah has made away with her heart. I never say a word, but I look for sighs, for the chin tilted on the palm, the little face staring out the window — telltale evidence of mooning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Zoe's brow is furrowed in concentration as she wields the toothpick, the craft brush, the parchment cone. Beneath her hands psychedelic patterns bloom, and when she sighs, it's a sigh of satisfaction. \"Look how beautiful, Mama!\" Then, more pragmatically, \"When can we eat them?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My daughter's face is the face of a future heartbreaker — I see it all written there, in the cheekbones, and there, in the limpid eyes. But for now, she's just a kid. I can no more protect her from the storms and sunlight of romance than I can protect these Valentine hearts from being devoured on the spot and left in a million crumbs. Nor do I want to, for hearts are made to be filled and broken, mended and made new again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After we finish, I regard the hearts, in all their jeweled splendor, for one long moment. Really, they're too beautiful to eat. But then I do anyway, snapping each brittle heart in half, letting the ginger sting my tongue. A flash of spice and a moment's pleasure, and it's gone. Only the memories, more sweet than bitter, remain.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"gingerbread\">\u003c/a>Thin Crisp Gingerbread Cookies\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>These cookies, from Cook's Illustrated's \u003c/em>The New Best Recipe\u003cem> (America's Test Kitchen, 2004) yield a waferlike, not-too-sweet ginger snap that makes a perfect canvas for your icing masterpieces. And they can be made with either a food processor or an electric mixer.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78228\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/marbling_enl-8c947602b11b0e97e3ee3dbff8230f0396ed266b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/marbling_enl-8c947602b11b0e97e3ee3dbff8230f0396ed266b-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"Marbled royal icing on gingerbread. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78228\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marbled royal icing on gingerbread. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes approximately 5 dozen cookies\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup packed dark brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon ground cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon ground cloves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened but still cool, cut into 12 pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup light or dark molasses\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a food processor, process the flour, brown sugar, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, cloves and salt until combined, about 10 seconds. Scatter the butter pieces over the flour mixture and process until the mixture is sandy and resembles very fine meal about 15 seconds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the machine running, gradually add the molasses and milk; process until the dough is evenly moistened and forms a soft mass, about 10 seconds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alternatively, with an electric mixer, stir together the flour, brown sugar, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, cloves and salt at low speed until combined, about 30 seconds. Stop the mixer and add the butter pieces; mix at medium-low speed until the mixture is sandy and resembles fine meal, about 1 1/2 minutes. Reduce the speed to low and, with the mixer running, gradually add the molasses and milk; mix until the dough is evenly moistened, about 20 seconds. Increase the speed to medium and mix until thoroughly combined, about 10 seconds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scrape the dough onto a work surface; divide it in quarters. Working with one portion at a time, roll the dough 1/8-inch thick between 2 large sheets of parchment paper. Leaving the dough sandwiched between the parchment, stack the dough on a baking sheet and freeze until firm, 15 to 20 minutes. (Alternatively, refrigerate the dough for 2 hours or overnight.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Adjust the oven racks to the upper and lower-middle positions and heat the oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or spray them with nonstick cooking spray.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove 1 dough sheet from the freezer; place on the work surface. Peel off the top parchment sheet and gently lay it back in place. Flip the dough over; peel off and discard the second parchment sheet. Cut the dough into 2- to 3-inch gingerbread cookies, transferring the shapes to the prepared baking sheets with a wide metal spatula and spacing them 3/4 inch apart; set the scraps aside. Repeat with the remaining dough until the baking sheets are full.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bake the cookies until set in the centers and the dough barely retains an imprint when touched very gently with a fingertip, 10 to 15 minutes, rotating the baking sheets front to back and switching positions top to bottom halfway through the baking time. Do not overbake. Cool the cookies on the sheets 2 minutes, then remove the cookies with a wide metal spatula to a wire rack; cool to room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gather the scraps; repeat the rolling, cutting and baking steps. Once the cookies have cooled (which will happen quickly, as they're so thin), ice them.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"shortbread\">\u003c/a>Shortbread Hearts\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>These are liberally adapted from a recipe in Sheila Lukins and Julee Rosso's venerable \u003c/em>The Silver Palate\u003cem> (Workman, 1982). They freeze well but are quite brittle, so work gently when you're icing.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78229\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 745px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/shortbread-hearts_custom-cd8d10ede49186338412b60b8ee2b7b5a54eb244.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/shortbread-hearts_custom-cd8d10ede49186338412b60b8ee2b7b5a54eb244-745x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Shortbread Hearts. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\" width=\"745\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78229\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shortbread Hearts. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 dozen cookies\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2/3 cup confectioner's sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, sifted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon vanilla\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream butter and confectioner's sugar together until light. Sift flour and salt together and add to the creamed mixture. Add vanilla and blend thoroughly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scrape the dough onto a floured work surface, divide in half, and flatten into disks about 1/2-inch thick. Wrap in plastic and set in the freezer until slightly firm (but not rock hard), about 5 to10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roll the dough out to slightly less than 1/4-inch thick. Cut out cookies with a 2 1/2- to 3-inch heart-shaped cookie cutter. Place on parchment-paper-lined baking sheet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 325 degrees. While the oven's heating, set the cookies someplace cold — either the refrigerator — or outside, if you don't have room and the air temperature outside is cooler. Bake the cookies for 10 to 12 minutes or until just cooked through — they needn't be colored or browned. Cool on a rack.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"icing\">\u003c/a>Royal Icing\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This basic royal icing from \u003c/em>Cookie Swap\u003cem> by Julia Usher (Gibbs Smith, 2009) has been my standby for years. I've used both raw egg whites (saved in the freezer after making ice cream or \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/03/30/134953739/the-other-half-of-the-egg\">other yolk-intensive projects\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003cem>) and meringue powder, which is widely available at craft stores and baking supply sites. I think the raw whites may taste a little better, but the meringue powder has the advantages of being pasteurized and easy to work with.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78227\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/valentine-s-overall-3_custom-5df80ae57fd74800f4c2e8d7f24449967d0322f3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/valentine-s-overall-3_custom-5df80ae57fd74800f4c2e8d7f24449967d0322f3-1024x667.jpg\" alt=\"An assortment of iced gingerbread cookies for Valentine's Day. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\" width=\"1024\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78227\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An assortment of iced gingerbread cookies for Valentine's Day. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 4 1/2 cups\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pounds powdered sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 11 tablespoons pasteurized whites (or 5 large egg whites)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flavoring to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soft gel food coloring, to desired shade (for example, Chefmaster Liqua-Gel)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the powdered sugar and cream of tartar together in the bowl of an electric mixer. Stir in the egg whites by hand to moisten the sugar. Fit the electric mixer with a whip attachment and beat the mixture on low speed to evenly distribute the egg whites. Turn the mixer to medium-high speed and continue to beat about 2 minutes, until the icing is silky and very white. (The icing will lighten and thicken as you beat it.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beat in flavoring and/or food coloring, if desired. Mix well and thin with water\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>to desired consistency before using.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Marbling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Extensive instructions, with photos, can be found at Julia Usher's excellent website, \u003ca href=\"http://cookieconnection.juliausher.com/\">Cookie Connection\u003c/a>. There you can find guidance on beadwork, piping, stenciling and flooding, along with photo galleries of cookies much more beautiful than mine. My own instructions, given here, are just a sketch to get you started.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You'll need 3 different colors of icing, thinned to the consistency of Elmer's Glue or slightly thicker. (That works out to about 2 to 3 tablespoons of water per cup of icing; add drop by drop as you get close. You can thicken the icing back up with confectioner's sugar.) Put one color in an open tub and the other two in parchment paper cones or piping bags with a small round pastry tip. Or, if you want maximum color combinations, divide your three colors so that you have a tub and a piping bag for each color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coat the whole cookie with one color of icing, spreading carefully but quickly with the back of a craft paintbrush.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pipe lines or dots of contrasting color icing onto the wet topcoat. Drag a toothpick or darning needle straight across the lines, reversing direction when you reach the cookie's edge, to create a marbled effect. For miniature hearts, drag your needle through dots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Brush Embroidery\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Topcoat the cookie with icing in whatever color you like and let dry, preferably overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the brush embroidery, you'll need a thicker, slightly pasty consistency of icing (thinned with about 1 to 2 tablespoons of water per cup of icing). Once you've got the consistency to your satisfaction, fill a parchment paper cone or piping bag fitted with a small round tip with the icing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pipe curved petal outlines onto the cookie. Dampen a very small paintbrush (preferably square-tipped) and blot the excess water from the tip. Brush the icing toward the center of the petal to create a delicate shaded effect; finish by piping small dots at the center or in the background as desired. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>About The Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>T. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe,\u003c/em> NPR.org and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a> and has just released the \u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/cookshelf-cookbook-rating/id638554845?mt=8\">CookShelf cookbook-rating app\u003c/a>, which is available on iPhone, iPad and Android devices. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"These edible treasures would be too pretty to eat — if they weren't so delicious. Bake a batch of gingerbread or shortbread hearts, bedeck them with royal icing — and if it suits your mood, break them in half before devouring them.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1392334159,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":62,"wordCount":1989},"headData":{"title":"Valentine Hearts That Are Meant To Be Broken | KQED","description":"These edible treasures would be too pretty to eat — if they weren't so delicious. Bake a batch of gingerbread or shortbread hearts, bedeck them with royal icing — and if it suits your mood, break them in half before devouring them.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Valentine Hearts That Are Meant To Be Broken","datePublished":"2014-02-13T23:29:19.000Z","dateModified":"2014-02-13T23:29:19.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"78225 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=78225","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2014/02/13/valentine-hearts-that-are-meant-to-be-broken/","disqusTitle":"Valentine Hearts That Are Meant To Be Broken","nprByline":"T. Susan Chang","nprStoryId":"275356369","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=275356369&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/2014/02/12/275356369/valentine-hearts-that-are-meant-to-be-broken?ft=3&f=275356369","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 12 Feb 2014 03:41:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 12 Feb 2014 03:41:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 12 Feb 2014 03:41:36 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/78225/valentine-hearts-that-are-meant-to-be-broken","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78226\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/valentine-s-overall-1_enl-84b3950b7ec257b4c02a274f1d4d238ddb899c2a.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/valentine-s-overall-1_enl-84b3950b7ec257b4c02a274f1d4d238ddb899c2a-1024x686.jpg\" alt=\"An assortment of marbled Valentine's cookies. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\" width=\"1024\" height=\"686\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78226\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An assortment of marbled Valentine's cookies. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/people/10593559/t-susan-chang\" target=\"_blank\">T. Susan Chang\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2014/02/12/275356369/valentine-hearts-that-are-meant-to-be-broken\" target=\"_blank\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (2/12/2014)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#gingerbread\">Thin Crisp Gingerbread Cookies\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#shortbread\">Shortbread Hearts\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#icing\">Royal Icing\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In first grade, my heart was stolen by Mark, who sat next to me and had an advanced phonics book (which I also craved). Then there were Peter, Eddie, Raja and Michael. These serial crushes continued right on up through my early 20s, at a rate of approximately three a year. Boys. I fell for their incipient mustaches, their bad attitudes and foul mouths, their poor poetry and bass guitars, their careless humor. I saw their swagger for what it was, but I loved it anyway.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When you're a kid, conversation hearts, waxy chocolates and powdery-smelling carnations are the currency of Valentine's Day. (That and a broken heart or two.) But a few years ago, my young daughter and I started a new tradition — one a whole lot tastier, and not dependent on the fickle affection of boys. We started baking gingerbread Valentine hearts — magnificent, ephemeral delights we learned to decorate from a book (Julia Usher's \u003cem>Cookie Swap\u003c/em>).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now Valentine's brings happy afternoons in the kitchen while the late-winter sun slants in, illuminating the dots and paisleys of our edible treasures. We marble the wet icing with toothpicks or darning needles and stud them with dragées and luster dust. We brush-embroider lines of icing into flower petals with a sheared-off old paintbox brush. We labor over every cookie, just as if it weren't going to vanish in two bites.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As we work, I surreptitiously watch my 7-year-old, so like me in so many ways, for symptoms of the romantic affliction, for signs that a Hunter or Oscar or Elijah has made away with her heart. I never say a word, but I look for sighs, for the chin tilted on the palm, the little face staring out the window — telltale evidence of mooning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But Zoe's brow is furrowed in concentration as she wields the toothpick, the craft brush, the parchment cone. Beneath her hands psychedelic patterns bloom, and when she sighs, it's a sigh of satisfaction. \"Look how beautiful, Mama!\" Then, more pragmatically, \"When can we eat them?\"\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My daughter's face is the face of a future heartbreaker — I see it all written there, in the cheekbones, and there, in the limpid eyes. But for now, she's just a kid. I can no more protect her from the storms and sunlight of romance than I can protect these Valentine hearts from being devoured on the spot and left in a million crumbs. Nor do I want to, for hearts are made to be filled and broken, mended and made new again.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After we finish, I regard the hearts, in all their jeweled splendor, for one long moment. Really, they're too beautiful to eat. But then I do anyway, snapping each brittle heart in half, letting the ginger sting my tongue. A flash of spice and a moment's pleasure, and it's gone. Only the memories, more sweet than bitter, remain.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"gingerbread\">\u003c/a>Thin Crisp Gingerbread Cookies\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>These cookies, from Cook's Illustrated's \u003c/em>The New Best Recipe\u003cem> (America's Test Kitchen, 2004) yield a waferlike, not-too-sweet ginger snap that makes a perfect canvas for your icing masterpieces. And they can be made with either a food processor or an electric mixer.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78228\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/marbling_enl-8c947602b11b0e97e3ee3dbff8230f0396ed266b.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/marbling_enl-8c947602b11b0e97e3ee3dbff8230f0396ed266b-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"Marbled royal icing on gingerbread. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78228\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Marbled royal icing on gingerbread. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes approximately 5 dozen cookies\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup packed dark brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon ground cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon ground cloves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened but still cool, cut into 12 pieces\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup light or dark molasses\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a food processor, process the flour, brown sugar, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, cloves and salt until combined, about 10 seconds. Scatter the butter pieces over the flour mixture and process until the mixture is sandy and resembles very fine meal about 15 seconds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With the machine running, gradually add the molasses and milk; process until the dough is evenly moistened and forms a soft mass, about 10 seconds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Alternatively, with an electric mixer, stir together the flour, brown sugar, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, cloves and salt at low speed until combined, about 30 seconds. Stop the mixer and add the butter pieces; mix at medium-low speed until the mixture is sandy and resembles fine meal, about 1 1/2 minutes. Reduce the speed to low and, with the mixer running, gradually add the molasses and milk; mix until the dough is evenly moistened, about 20 seconds. Increase the speed to medium and mix until thoroughly combined, about 10 seconds.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scrape the dough onto a work surface; divide it in quarters. Working with one portion at a time, roll the dough 1/8-inch thick between 2 large sheets of parchment paper. Leaving the dough sandwiched between the parchment, stack the dough on a baking sheet and freeze until firm, 15 to 20 minutes. (Alternatively, refrigerate the dough for 2 hours or overnight.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Adjust the oven racks to the upper and lower-middle positions and heat the oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or spray them with nonstick cooking spray.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove 1 dough sheet from the freezer; place on the work surface. Peel off the top parchment sheet and gently lay it back in place. Flip the dough over; peel off and discard the second parchment sheet. Cut the dough into 2- to 3-inch gingerbread cookies, transferring the shapes to the prepared baking sheets with a wide metal spatula and spacing them 3/4 inch apart; set the scraps aside. Repeat with the remaining dough until the baking sheets are full.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bake the cookies until set in the centers and the dough barely retains an imprint when touched very gently with a fingertip, 10 to 15 minutes, rotating the baking sheets front to back and switching positions top to bottom halfway through the baking time. Do not overbake. Cool the cookies on the sheets 2 minutes, then remove the cookies with a wide metal spatula to a wire rack; cool to room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gather the scraps; repeat the rolling, cutting and baking steps. Once the cookies have cooled (which will happen quickly, as they're so thin), ice them.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"shortbread\">\u003c/a>Shortbread Hearts\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>These are liberally adapted from a recipe in Sheila Lukins and Julee Rosso's venerable \u003c/em>The Silver Palate\u003cem> (Workman, 1982). They freeze well but are quite brittle, so work gently when you're icing.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78229\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 745px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/shortbread-hearts_custom-cd8d10ede49186338412b60b8ee2b7b5a54eb244.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/shortbread-hearts_custom-cd8d10ede49186338412b60b8ee2b7b5a54eb244-745x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Shortbread Hearts. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\" width=\"745\" height=\"1024\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78229\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Shortbread Hearts. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 dozen cookies\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2/3 cup confectioner's sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, sifted\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon vanilla\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream butter and confectioner's sugar together until light. Sift flour and salt together and add to the creamed mixture. Add vanilla and blend thoroughly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Scrape the dough onto a floured work surface, divide in half, and flatten into disks about 1/2-inch thick. Wrap in plastic and set in the freezer until slightly firm (but not rock hard), about 5 to10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Roll the dough out to slightly less than 1/4-inch thick. Cut out cookies with a 2 1/2- to 3-inch heart-shaped cookie cutter. Place on parchment-paper-lined baking sheet.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 325 degrees. While the oven's heating, set the cookies someplace cold — either the refrigerator — or outside, if you don't have room and the air temperature outside is cooler. Bake the cookies for 10 to 12 minutes or until just cooked through — they needn't be colored or browned. Cool on a rack.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"icing\">\u003c/a>Royal Icing\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This basic royal icing from \u003c/em>Cookie Swap\u003cem> by Julia Usher (Gibbs Smith, 2009) has been my standby for years. I've used both raw egg whites (saved in the freezer after making ice cream or \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2011/03/30/134953739/the-other-half-of-the-egg\">other yolk-intensive projects\u003c/a>\u003c/em>\u003cem>) and meringue powder, which is widely available at craft stores and baking supply sites. I think the raw whites may taste a little better, but the meringue powder has the advantages of being pasteurized and easy to work with.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_78227\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1024px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/valentine-s-overall-3_custom-5df80ae57fd74800f4c2e8d7f24449967d0322f3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2014/02/valentine-s-overall-3_custom-5df80ae57fd74800f4c2e8d7f24449967d0322f3-1024x667.jpg\" alt=\"An assortment of iced gingerbread cookies for Valentine's Day. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\" width=\"1024\" height=\"667\" class=\"size-large wp-image-78227\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">An assortment of iced gingerbread cookies for Valentine's Day. (T. Susan Chang/NPR)\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes about 4 1/2 cups\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 pounds powdered sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>About 11 tablespoons pasteurized whites (or 5 large egg whites)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Flavoring to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Soft gel food coloring, to desired shade (for example, Chefmaster Liqua-Gel)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Mix the powdered sugar and cream of tartar together in the bowl of an electric mixer. Stir in the egg whites by hand to moisten the sugar. Fit the electric mixer with a whip attachment and beat the mixture on low speed to evenly distribute the egg whites. Turn the mixer to medium-high speed and continue to beat about 2 minutes, until the icing is silky and very white. (The icing will lighten and thicken as you beat it.)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Beat in flavoring and/or food coloring, if desired. Mix well and thin with water\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>to desired consistency before using.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Marbling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Extensive instructions, with photos, can be found at Julia Usher's excellent website, \u003ca href=\"http://cookieconnection.juliausher.com/\">Cookie Connection\u003c/a>. There you can find guidance on beadwork, piping, stenciling and flooding, along with photo galleries of cookies much more beautiful than mine. My own instructions, given here, are just a sketch to get you started.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>You'll need 3 different colors of icing, thinned to the consistency of Elmer's Glue or slightly thicker. (That works out to about 2 to 3 tablespoons of water per cup of icing; add drop by drop as you get close. You can thicken the icing back up with confectioner's sugar.) Put one color in an open tub and the other two in parchment paper cones or piping bags with a small round pastry tip. Or, if you want maximum color combinations, divide your three colors so that you have a tub and a piping bag for each color.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Coat the whole cookie with one color of icing, spreading carefully but quickly with the back of a craft paintbrush.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pipe lines or dots of contrasting color icing onto the wet topcoat. Drag a toothpick or darning needle straight across the lines, reversing direction when you reach the cookie's edge, to create a marbled effect. For miniature hearts, drag your needle through dots.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Brush Embroidery\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Topcoat the cookie with icing in whatever color you like and let dry, preferably overnight.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the brush embroidery, you'll need a thicker, slightly pasty consistency of icing (thinned with about 1 to 2 tablespoons of water per cup of icing). Once you've got the consistency to your satisfaction, fill a parchment paper cone or piping bag fitted with a small round tip with the icing.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pipe curved petal outlines onto the cookie. Dampen a very small paintbrush (preferably square-tipped) and blot the excess water from the tip. Brush the icing toward the center of the petal to create a delicate shaded effect; finish by piping small dots at the center or in the background as desired. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>About The Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>T. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for \u003cem>The Boston Globe,\u003c/em> NPR.org and the cookbook-indexing website \u003ca href=\"http://www.eatyourbooks.com/\">Eat Your Books\u003c/a>. She's the author of \u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Spoonful-Promises-Stories-Recipes-Well-Tempered/dp/0762772506/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1303827445&sr=8-1\">A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table\u003c/a> and has just released the \u003ca href=\"http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/cookshelf-cookbook-rating/id638554845?mt=8\">CookShelf cookbook-rating app\u003c/a>, which is available on iPhone, iPad and Android devices. For more information, visit her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://tsusanchang.wordpress.com/\">Cookbooks for Dinner\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2014 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org\" target=\"_blank\">NPR\u003c/a>. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/78225/valentine-hearts-that-are-meant-to-be-broken","authors":["byline_bayareabites_78225"],"categories":["bayareabites_12550","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_12","bayareabites_13034"],"tags":["bayareabites_12741","bayareabites_11086","bayareabites_14738","bayareabites_81"],"featImg":"bayareabites_78236","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_73505":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_73505","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"73505","score":null,"sort":[1384658329000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"yes-its-worth-it-to-make-your-own-yogurt","title":"Yes, It's Worth It To Make Your Own Yogurt","publishDate":1384658329,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73605\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yogurt1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yogurt1.jpg\" alt=\"Banana-Cocoa Bread — made with homemade yogurt — is a perfect treat with coffee or tea. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"629\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73605\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banana-Cocoa Bread — made with homemade yogurt — is a perfect treat with coffee or tea. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Nicole Spiridakis, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/11/06/243014945/yes-it-s-worth-it-to-make-your-own-yogurt\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (11/6/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#yogurt\">Homemade Yogurt\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#greek\">Greek-Style Yogurt\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#cake\">Yogurt Cake With Fruit And Almonds\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#bread\">Banana-Cocoa Bread\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#pasta\">Pasta With Basil-Yogurt Sauce, Peas And Zucchini\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the verge of a move to Casablanca, Morocco, for the next four years, I spent a month there this summer to dip my toes figuratively — and literally, into the Atlantic — into my new life. I became almost accustomed to the ongoing calls to prayer and cooked with gorgeous produce acquired from my neighborhood souk. I drank all sorts of delicious and cheap fresh-squeezed juices at the cafe up the street and watched cars and donkey-pulled carts pass by in equal measure. I ate too many French-inspired pastries, and I made my own yogurt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, that last endeavor may be a surprise. It makes sense I'd tuck into multiple plates of couscous and avail myself of locally grown tomatoes. But make my own yogurt, especially when I could buy it quite easily at the Marjane supermarket?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My years in San Francisco — for better or worse — have made me into a bit of a purist. When it comes to dairy, I like my milk organic and my yogurt unsweetened. I was surprised in my initial Moroccan grocery forays to discover that most of the yogurt was flavored and a bit overladen with sweeteners for my taste. I am rather boring in my yogurt preferences: plain, please, with no sugar added, and preferably low-fat. While I did manage to find a \"natural\" brand of unsweetened yogurt at the store that was pretty good, I still yearned for my old familiar brands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I do know that living a month in a new place is hardly enough time to find a good lunch spot, let alone explore all of the shopping options. I have no doubt I'll find the yogurt of my dreams once I'm living in Morocco full time. In the meantime, though, I decided to make it myself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I experimented with making homemade yogurt years ago, as much for the scientific fun of it as for the finished product. But I'd nearly forgotten about those efforts since yogurt is easily accessible in the states and comes in as many flavors and varieties as you could wish for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet, when embarking upon a new life, why not explore new(ish) culinary techniques as well? Even if you're not moving anywhere out of the ordinary, the feeling of satisfaction from making something yourself is worth the effort. Besides, it's not as if making yogurt from scratch is difficult — it's actually incredibly easy, almost laughably so. For control freaks like me, the ability to know exactly what's going into it is another bonus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Basically, you take a small amount of store-bought yogurt, whatever kind of milk that you like (dairy, soy, etc.) and mix it together. Then you let it ferment overnight and like magic: homemade yogurt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you make more batches of your own yogurt, you can use your previous batch as the starter, meaning that the original store-bought base eventually is whittled down into oblivion. Stir in a bit of fruit, honey or maple syrup if you like a touch of sweetness or leave it completely untouched. What I love about this method is that I get to decide exactly what goes into it: nonfat milk or whole, a drizzle of honey or not, a handful of chopped strawberries or not. (You could also puree fruit and yogurt in a food processor or with a stick blender for a smoother fruity version.) The options are endless.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In North Africa, I started straining my yogurt to make a sort of Greek yogurt: thick, creamy and perfect for serving with slices of the luscious nectarines and a drizzle of the eucalyptus honey that had quickly become my new favorite thing during my weeks in Casa. I also made an ersatz tzatziki with quickly smashed garlic and finely chopped cucumber. I'll make the real thing when I have access to my food processor again, but we certainly enjoyed it on a hot night when all we wanted to eat were cold dips and raw vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though I spent only a month in Morocco (I'll be back at the end of the year for the duration), it was immediately clear that I have a lot of change ahead of me. I will have new languages to learn, new streets to traverse, new running trails to find, new vegetables to discover, a whole country and continent to explore. So much will be new that my head is already spinning with it all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I now feel confident I will have yogurt.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"yogurt\">\u003c/a>Homemade Yogurt\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is a simple recipe: a few tablespoons of pre-made yogurt gives the necessary base while the milk makes up the bulk of the yogurt. I have listed whole milk as the starting point but you may use nonfat, low-fat, (unsweetened) soy milk, etc., and the formula remains the same. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73606\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yogurt2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yogurt2.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade Yogurt. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"840\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73606\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Homemade Yogurt. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003cem>Makes 1 quart of yogurt\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 quart whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup plain whole milk yogurt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Have a 1 quart jar with a screw-on lid (or several smaller jars) ready and boil water. Pour the boiling water into the jar and let it stand for 5 minutes to sterilize it. Pour out the water and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan heat the milk until it reaches 180 degrees on a thermometer. Remove from heat, keeping the thermometer in the pot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the temperature drops to 115 degrees, stir in the yogurt until thoroughly incorporated. Pour the mixture into the jar and screw on the lid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the yogurt in a warm place and leave it undisturbed for 10 to 12 hours. You can wrap the jar with a towel if your house is a bit cool. For a thicker, tangier yogurt, let yogurt sit an additional 3 to 5 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Refrigerate yogurt for at least 3 hours before eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"greek\">\u003c/a>Greek-Style Yogurt\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can make your homemade yogurt slightly thicker and more like Greek yogurt.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 cups\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Line a medium-large bowl with a piece of cheesecloth and dump 2 cups of homemade yogurt into the center of the cloth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring the four corners of the cloth together and lift the yogurt over the bowl and twist the corners to squeeze out the liquid (it will drain through the cloth).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Continue squeezing to force the liquid out. When the majority of the surface liquid has been drained, it will start to drip more slowly. Tie off the top of the cloth just above the mass of yogurt with string.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the cloth containing the yogurt in a strainer or colander and place the strainer or colander in a bowl where it doesn't touch the bottom; liquid will continue to drain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the bowl containing the strainer/colander in the refrigerator and let drain for 2 to 3 hours. After draining, take the cloth containing the yogurt and put it in the sink (do not remove the string). Using your hands, squeeze out any remaining liquid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the string, open the cloth and using a spatula, scrape out the yogurt into a bowl. Yogurt should be at least as thick as sour cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cake\">\u003c/a>Yogurt Cake With Fruit And Almonds\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I dearly love the simplicity of this cake, both in its ingredients and its flavors, but I could see my way to changing a few things up now and again — for example, swap 1/4 cup of honey or maple syrup for 1/4 cup of the sugar, or try stirring in the almonds (or toasted walnuts?) into the batter rather than baking them on top.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73607\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yogurt3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yogurt3.jpg\" alt=\"Yogurt Cake with Fruit and Almonds. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"840\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73607\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yogurt Cake with Fruit and Almonds. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes a 9-inch cake\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup plain full-fat yogurt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons baking powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons freshly grated lemon zest\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon vanilla\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup canola or vegetable oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups berries or sliced fruit of choice, or a combination\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup sliced almonds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat oven to 350 degrees and butter a 9-inch cake pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, combine the yogurt, sugar and eggs, stirring and whisking until well blended. Add the flour, baking powder, salt, ground cinnamon, lemon zest and vanilla, mixing to just combine. Add the oil and whisk and stir well to incorporate. Keep stirring until it forms a smooth batter. Gently stir in the fruit. Pour and scrape the batter into the prepared pan. Scatter the sliced almonds evenly across the top of the cake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the cake feels springy to the touch and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean. Do not overbake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove from oven and cool cake on a rack for about 20 minutes, then turn it out of the pan to cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"bread\">\u003c/a>Banana-Cocoa Bread\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is a lovely loaf — not too sweet with a slight tang from the yogurt and a mellow olive oil undertone. I like the balance the cocoa powder imparts, but if you're partial to a simpler banana bread, omit it. I do think the olive oil is key here; butter is nice of course, but the olive oil really makes this special. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73608\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 462px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yogurt4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yogurt4.jpg\" alt=\"Banana-Cocoa Bread. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"462\" height=\"346\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73608\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banana-Cocoa Bread. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 10 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup whole wheat or whole wheat pastry flour\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup dark or light-brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup maple syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large eggs, lightly beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 very ripe, mashed bananas\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup plain yogurt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup chopped walnuts (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat oven to 350 degrees and grease a 9-by-5- inch loaf pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, whisk together the flours, sugar, cocoa, baking soda and salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a separate bowl, mix together the olive oil, maple syrup, eggs, banana, yogurt and vanilla. Pour the banana mixture into the flour mixture and fold with a spatula until just combined. Add the nuts, if using. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and bake until golden brown and a tester inserted in the middle comes about clean, about 50 minutes. Watch so it doesn't overbake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer the pan to a wire rack to cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then turn the loaf out of the pan to cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"pasta\">\u003c/a>Pasta With Basil-Yogurt Sauce, Peas And Zucchini\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Yogurt in pasta sauce may be unexpected but it imparts a nice creaminess — and a bit of a tang — missing in more heavy, traditional dairy-based sauces. In Morocco, fresh peas were abundant. As I like to load up with a lot of green vegetables whenever possible, adding zucchini and spinach to this dish felt exactly right. Serving with extra Parmesan cheese is a must.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73609\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yogurt5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yogurt5.jpg\" alt=\"Pasta with Basil-Yogurt Sauce, Peas and Zucchini. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73609\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pasta with Basil-Yogurt Sauce, Peas and Zucchini. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup plain yogurt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup fresh basil, packed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cloves garlic, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon lemon zest\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pasta\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups dried orecchiette pasta\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 red onion, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium-sized zucchini, thinly sliced and quartered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups fresh or frozen peas\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 3 cups spinach, coarsely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a food processor, combine the yogurt, olive oil, basil, garlic, Parmesan cheese, lemon zest, salt and pepper. Process until all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Taste and adjust seasonings. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cook the pasta according to the package directions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large frying pan, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and sauté until it is soft and translucent, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add the zucchini and cook about 5 minutes, then add the peas and spinach. Cook the vegetables until they are wilted and cooked through, about 2 to 3 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the pasta to the vegetables and stir to combine. Pour into a large bowl and add the yogurt sauce, tossing and stirring to coat well. Serve pasta with a dusting of Parmesan cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>About The Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Nicole Spiridakis lives in San Francisco and writes about food, travel and her native state on her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cucinanicolina.com/\">cucinanicolina.com\u003c/a>. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, the San Francisco Chronicle, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/\">chow.com\u003c/a> and other publications.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"It's easy to make your own yogurt, and when you do, you're in control. Your homemade cultured milk can be worked into a variety of sweet and savory dishes.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1384658329,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":93,"wordCount":2174},"headData":{"title":"Yes, It's Worth It To Make Your Own Yogurt | KQED","description":"It's easy to make your own yogurt, and when you do, you're in control. Your homemade cultured milk can be worked into a variety of sweet and savory dishes.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Yes, It's Worth It To Make Your Own Yogurt","datePublished":"2013-11-17T03:18:49.000Z","dateModified":"2013-11-17T03:18:49.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"73505 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=73505","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/11/16/yes-its-worth-it-to-make-your-own-yogurt/","disqusTitle":"Yes, It's Worth It To Make Your Own Yogurt","nprByline":"Nicole Spiridakis","nprStoryId":"243014945","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=243014945&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/2013/11/06/243014945/yes-it-s-worth-it-to-make-your-own-yogurt?ft=3&f=243014945","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 06 Nov 2013 11:35:00 -0500","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 06 Nov 2013 00:01:00 -0500","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 06 Nov 2013 11:35:07 -0500","path":"/bayareabites/73505/yes-its-worth-it-to-make-your-own-yogurt","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73605\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yogurt1.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yogurt1.jpg\" alt=\"Banana-Cocoa Bread — made with homemade yogurt — is a perfect treat with coffee or tea. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"629\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73605\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banana-Cocoa Bread — made with homemade yogurt — is a perfect treat with coffee or tea. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Nicole Spiridakis, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/11/06/243014945/yes-it-s-worth-it-to-make-your-own-yogurt\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (11/6/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#yogurt\">Homemade Yogurt\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#greek\">Greek-Style Yogurt\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#cake\">Yogurt Cake With Fruit And Almonds\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#bread\">Banana-Cocoa Bread\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#pasta\">Pasta With Basil-Yogurt Sauce, Peas And Zucchini\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On the verge of a move to Casablanca, Morocco, for the next four years, I spent a month there this summer to dip my toes figuratively — and literally, into the Atlantic — into my new life. I became almost accustomed to the ongoing calls to prayer and cooked with gorgeous produce acquired from my neighborhood souk. I drank all sorts of delicious and cheap fresh-squeezed juices at the cafe up the street and watched cars and donkey-pulled carts pass by in equal measure. I ate too many French-inspired pastries, and I made my own yogurt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Now, that last endeavor may be a surprise. It makes sense I'd tuck into multiple plates of couscous and avail myself of locally grown tomatoes. But make my own yogurt, especially when I could buy it quite easily at the Marjane supermarket?\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My years in San Francisco — for better or worse — have made me into a bit of a purist. When it comes to dairy, I like my milk organic and my yogurt unsweetened. I was surprised in my initial Moroccan grocery forays to discover that most of the yogurt was flavored and a bit overladen with sweeteners for my taste. I am rather boring in my yogurt preferences: plain, please, with no sugar added, and preferably low-fat. While I did manage to find a \"natural\" brand of unsweetened yogurt at the store that was pretty good, I still yearned for my old familiar brands.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I do know that living a month in a new place is hardly enough time to find a good lunch spot, let alone explore all of the shopping options. I have no doubt I'll find the yogurt of my dreams once I'm living in Morocco full time. In the meantime, though, I decided to make it myself.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I experimented with making homemade yogurt years ago, as much for the scientific fun of it as for the finished product. But I'd nearly forgotten about those efforts since yogurt is easily accessible in the states and comes in as many flavors and varieties as you could wish for.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And yet, when embarking upon a new life, why not explore new(ish) culinary techniques as well? Even if you're not moving anywhere out of the ordinary, the feeling of satisfaction from making something yourself is worth the effort. Besides, it's not as if making yogurt from scratch is difficult — it's actually incredibly easy, almost laughably so. For control freaks like me, the ability to know exactly what's going into it is another bonus.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Basically, you take a small amount of store-bought yogurt, whatever kind of milk that you like (dairy, soy, etc.) and mix it together. Then you let it ferment overnight and like magic: homemade yogurt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>As you make more batches of your own yogurt, you can use your previous batch as the starter, meaning that the original store-bought base eventually is whittled down into oblivion. Stir in a bit of fruit, honey or maple syrup if you like a touch of sweetness or leave it completely untouched. What I love about this method is that I get to decide exactly what goes into it: nonfat milk or whole, a drizzle of honey or not, a handful of chopped strawberries or not. (You could also puree fruit and yogurt in a food processor or with a stick blender for a smoother fruity version.) The options are endless.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In North Africa, I started straining my yogurt to make a sort of Greek yogurt: thick, creamy and perfect for serving with slices of the luscious nectarines and a drizzle of the eucalyptus honey that had quickly become my new favorite thing during my weeks in Casa. I also made an ersatz tzatziki with quickly smashed garlic and finely chopped cucumber. I'll make the real thing when I have access to my food processor again, but we certainly enjoyed it on a hot night when all we wanted to eat were cold dips and raw vegetables.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Though I spent only a month in Morocco (I'll be back at the end of the year for the duration), it was immediately clear that I have a lot of change ahead of me. I will have new languages to learn, new streets to traverse, new running trails to find, new vegetables to discover, a whole country and continent to explore. So much will be new that my head is already spinning with it all.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>And I now feel confident I will have yogurt.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"yogurt\">\u003c/a>Homemade Yogurt\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is a simple recipe: a few tablespoons of pre-made yogurt gives the necessary base while the milk makes up the bulk of the yogurt. I have listed whole milk as the starting point but you may use nonfat, low-fat, (unsweetened) soy milk, etc., and the formula remains the same. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73606\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yogurt2.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yogurt2.jpg\" alt=\"Homemade Yogurt. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"840\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73606\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Homemade Yogurt. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003cem>Makes 1 quart of yogurt\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 quart whole milk\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup plain whole milk yogurt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Have a 1 quart jar with a screw-on lid (or several smaller jars) ready and boil water. Pour the boiling water into the jar and let it stand for 5 minutes to sterilize it. Pour out the water and set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan heat the milk until it reaches 180 degrees on a thermometer. Remove from heat, keeping the thermometer in the pot.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When the temperature drops to 115 degrees, stir in the yogurt until thoroughly incorporated. Pour the mixture into the jar and screw on the lid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the yogurt in a warm place and leave it undisturbed for 10 to 12 hours. You can wrap the jar with a towel if your house is a bit cool. For a thicker, tangier yogurt, let yogurt sit an additional 3 to 5 hours.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Refrigerate yogurt for at least 3 hours before eating.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"greek\">\u003c/a>Greek-Style Yogurt\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>You can make your homemade yogurt slightly thicker and more like Greek yogurt.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 2 cups\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Line a medium-large bowl with a piece of cheesecloth and dump 2 cups of homemade yogurt into the center of the cloth.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring the four corners of the cloth together and lift the yogurt over the bowl and twist the corners to squeeze out the liquid (it will drain through the cloth).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Continue squeezing to force the liquid out. When the majority of the surface liquid has been drained, it will start to drip more slowly. Tie off the top of the cloth just above the mass of yogurt with string.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the cloth containing the yogurt in a strainer or colander and place the strainer or colander in a bowl where it doesn't touch the bottom; liquid will continue to drain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the bowl containing the strainer/colander in the refrigerator and let drain for 2 to 3 hours. After draining, take the cloth containing the yogurt and put it in the sink (do not remove the string). Using your hands, squeeze out any remaining liquid.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the string, open the cloth and using a spatula, scrape out the yogurt into a bowl. Yogurt should be at least as thick as sour cream.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"cake\">\u003c/a>Yogurt Cake With Fruit And Almonds\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I dearly love the simplicity of this cake, both in its ingredients and its flavors, but I could see my way to changing a few things up now and again — for example, swap 1/4 cup of honey or maple syrup for 1/4 cup of the sugar, or try stirring in the almonds (or toasted walnuts?) into the batter rather than baking them on top.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73607\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yogurt3.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yogurt3.jpg\" alt=\"Yogurt Cake with Fruit and Almonds. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"840\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73607\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Yogurt Cake with Fruit and Almonds. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes a 9-inch cake\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup plain full-fat yogurt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons baking powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons freshly grated lemon zest\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon vanilla\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup canola or vegetable oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups berries or sliced fruit of choice, or a combination\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup sliced almonds\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat oven to 350 degrees and butter a 9-inch cake pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, combine the yogurt, sugar and eggs, stirring and whisking until well blended. Add the flour, baking powder, salt, ground cinnamon, lemon zest and vanilla, mixing to just combine. Add the oil and whisk and stir well to incorporate. Keep stirring until it forms a smooth batter. Gently stir in the fruit. Pour and scrape the batter into the prepared pan. Scatter the sliced almonds evenly across the top of the cake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the cake feels springy to the touch and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean. Do not overbake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove from oven and cool cake on a rack for about 20 minutes, then turn it out of the pan to cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"bread\">\u003c/a>Banana-Cocoa Bread\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>This is a lovely loaf — not too sweet with a slight tang from the yogurt and a mellow olive oil undertone. I like the balance the cocoa powder imparts, but if you're partial to a simpler banana bread, omit it. I do think the olive oil is key here; butter is nice of course, but the olive oil really makes this special. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73608\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 462px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yogurt4.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yogurt4.jpg\" alt=\"Banana-Cocoa Bread. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"462\" height=\"346\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73608\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Banana-Cocoa Bread. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 10 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup whole wheat or whole wheat pastry flour\u003cem>\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup dark or light-brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup maple syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large eggs, lightly beaten\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 very ripe, mashed bananas\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup plain yogurt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup chopped walnuts (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat oven to 350 degrees and grease a 9-by-5- inch loaf pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, whisk together the flours, sugar, cocoa, baking soda and salt.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a separate bowl, mix together the olive oil, maple syrup, eggs, banana, yogurt and vanilla. Pour the banana mixture into the flour mixture and fold with a spatula until just combined. Add the nuts, if using. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and bake until golden brown and a tester inserted in the middle comes about clean, about 50 minutes. Watch so it doesn't overbake.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Transfer the pan to a wire rack to cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then turn the loaf out of the pan to cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"pasta\">\u003c/a>Pasta With Basil-Yogurt Sauce, Peas And Zucchini\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Yogurt in pasta sauce may be unexpected but it imparts a nice creaminess — and a bit of a tang — missing in more heavy, traditional dairy-based sauces. In Morocco, fresh peas were abundant. As I like to load up with a lot of green vegetables whenever possible, adding zucchini and spinach to this dish felt exactly right. Serving with extra Parmesan cheese is a must.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_73609\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yogurt5.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/11/yogurt5.jpg\" alt=\"Pasta with Basil-Yogurt Sauce, Peas and Zucchini. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-73609\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pasta with Basil-Yogurt Sauce, Peas and Zucchini. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Sauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup plain yogurt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup fresh basil, packed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cloves garlic, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon lemon zest\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Pasta\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups dried orecchiette pasta\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 red onion, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium-sized zucchini, thinly sliced and quartered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups fresh or frozen peas\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 3 cups spinach, coarsely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a food processor, combine the yogurt, olive oil, basil, garlic, Parmesan cheese, lemon zest, salt and pepper. Process until all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed. Taste and adjust seasonings. Set aside.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Cook the pasta according to the package directions.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large frying pan, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and sauté until it is soft and translucent, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add the zucchini and cook about 5 minutes, then add the peas and spinach. Cook the vegetables until they are wilted and cooked through, about 2 to 3 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the pasta to the vegetables and stir to combine. Pour into a large bowl and add the yogurt sauce, tossing and stirring to coat well. Serve pasta with a dusting of Parmesan cheese.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>About The Author\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>Nicole Spiridakis lives in San Francisco and writes about food, travel and her native state on her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cucinanicolina.com/\">cucinanicolina.com\u003c/a>. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, the San Francisco Chronicle, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/\">chow.com\u003c/a> and other publications.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/73505/yes-its-worth-it-to-make-your-own-yogurt","authors":["byline_bayareabites_73505"],"categories":["bayareabites_2638","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_12660","bayareabites_11086","bayareabites_2890"],"featImg":"bayareabites_73610","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_71153":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_71153","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"71153","score":null,"sort":[1380322271000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"gravenstein-apples-the-end-of-summer-in-a-fruit","title":"Gravenstein Apples: The End of Summer in a Fruit","publishDate":1380322271,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71172\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples.jpg\" alt=\"Gravenstein Apples. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71172\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gravenstein Apples. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Nicole Spiridakis, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/09/25/225884066/gravenstein-apples-the-end-of-summer-in-a-fruit\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (9/27/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#sauce\">Just Apples Applesauce\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#tart\">Brown Sugar Tarte Tatin\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#muffins\">Apple-Walnut Muffins\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#cake\">Apple And Butter Cake\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#salad\">Apple And Arugula Salad With Lemon Vinaigrette\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fall, my thoughts naturally turn to apples. Specifically, Gravensteins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For many years Gravensteins were the hallmark of Sebastopol, Calif., the small town where I grew up about an hour north of San Francisco. Miles of apple trees and vineyards snugly fit side by side in a peaceful coexistence that juxtaposes the old and the new. When I was a kid there were more apples than grapes; we knew Sebastopol as the 'apple capital' rather than as an extension of wine country. Our back-to-school mornings were tinged with the scent of fermenting fruit and we tucked crisp apples into our lunch boxes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apples, particularly Gravensteins, were a backdrop to my childhood. I attended Gravenstein Elementary School and participated in the apple blossom parade each spring. In late summer I baked pies to enter in the Gravenstein Apple Fair where I ate apple crumbles piled high with whipped cream and munched on cinnamon-drizzled slices of the local crop as the afternoon waned. Apples and western Sonoma County seemed made for each other.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Things are slightly different now. Although the festivals are still going strong, most of the apple processing plants closed years ago and grape vines are slowly eradicating the ancient, gnarled trunks. But thanks to Slow Food USA – which in 2005 declared the Gravenstein apple a heritage food, thus giving it a much-needed bit of caché – my cherished 'Gravs' are experiencing something of a renaissance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why love Gravensteins? First and foremost they are a wonderful cooking apple. Crisp and tart and with a touch of honey, Gravensteins are especially good in sauce and cider or dried (in fact, Sebastopol Gravensteins were the source for apple sauce and dried apples for the U.S. troops in World War II).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gravenstein's origins lie in 17\u003csup>th\u003c/sup>-century Denmark. In addition to Sebastopol, the fruit is grown from Nova Scotia to the Pacific Northwest. I like them in nearly everything, from a tarte tatin to a buttery, rich cake laden with apple slices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The trees live lightly on the land, a boon in a perpetually drought-plagued state such as California. Their roots dig deep into the sandy, loamy soil and survive and thrive without irrigation. The coastal fog that typically blows in during the early evening and burns off in the morning sun also helps to create a perfect environment for the trees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While I know change is as inevitable as the shift of the seasons, it breaks my heart a little to see the orchards being steadily replaced with vineyards. Gravenstein acreage has declined from 1,200 a decade ago to 763 in 2010. In an effort to sustain the remaining orchards, some growers have switched to growing their apples organically, which has helped. Regardless, the area remains an agricultural paradise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I was growing up we had in our backyard from roughly June through October: plums, nectarines, blueberries, strawberries, blackberries, walnuts, almonds, apples and various vegetables during the summer months. Typical of oblivious children, I don't think my brother and I really appreciated — or even were aware of — how fortunate we were to be assigned the 'task' of picking blueberries, stuffing two berries into our mouths for every five we threw in a bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that is the true beauty of a fortunate childhood: to be so fully immersed in the moment you have no need to think of the next day or even the next few hours. It is enough simply to be with your dog panting quietly on the dry grass in the shade, listening to the crows call overhead, eating fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mom sometimes made strawberry jam from the garden strawberries and the kitchen smelled delicious, all hot and steamy from the big pots on the stove. As I got older, I used the blackberries in pies, or a tiny batch of jam once in awhile, or as the perfect garnish for the mini angel-food cakes I'd bake for my dad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every fall for many years Mom made applesauce. I loved applesauce days. I probably didn't help out more than to peer into the bubbling pot every so often and beg for a taste or two, but the process took at least an entire day. All the fruit came from our trees – though there were only a few they were prolific – and I still pilfer apples when I visit my parents' house in late summer. It was a bit of work, sure, but I loved eating that applesauce; when we had it with a weeknight dinner it elevated the meal into something special.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I try to carry on that tradition in my own kitchen, but I will confess that these days I mostly make small batches of sauce and save the apples for more involved dishes (think cakes, muffins, quick bread, even salads). I lace my pies with cinnamon and ginger — the apple's best friends — and infuse them with maple syrup and brown sugar. This never fails to up the ante. But what I'm really after is that sweet-tart, quintessential fall flavor – the end of summer captured in a fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, no apple is created alike, but in my recipes you may use any variety of your favorite cooking apple (though if pressed I may argue in favor of my beloved Gravs). 'Tis the season, after all.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"sauce\">\u003c/a>Just Apples Applesauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>More a formula than an exact recipe, this is my favorite way to prepare applesauce – completely unadorned. However, I will occasionally stir in some additional flavorings after I've made it: a bit of butter, a teaspoon of cinnamon, some maple syrup or brown sugar. If your apples are on the tart side, you may find it to your taste to sweeten them up a little. But it's all up to you.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71169\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-sauce.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-sauce.jpg\" alt=\"Just Apples Applesauce. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"823\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71169\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Just Apples Applesauce. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 1/3 cups \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound apples, peeled, cored and roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Splash of water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the apples in a large heavy-bottomed pot. Add the water and turn heat to high. When the apples and water are just boiling, reduce heat to a simmer and stir frequently. Cook apples until tender, adding more water if necessary, stirring and mashing with a wooden spoon against the side of the pot as they cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When apples are cooked through and very tender, remove from heat. Using the wooden spoon or a potato masher, mash the apples until they are fairly smooth (I prefer a lumpier sauce). If you like a smoother sauce, puree apples in a food processor or blender.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Refrigerate until ready to serve. Applesauce may be served cold or at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"tart\">\u003c/a>Brown Sugar Tarte Tatin\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I love to make a tarte tatin – a French upside down tart made with apples caramelized in butter and sugar – in the fall; it seems to perfectly suit the season. Serve slices of this dessert with dollops of softly whipped cream or, better yet, slightly warm and serve with vanilla ice cream.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71171\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-tarte-tatin.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-tarte-tatin.jpg\" alt=\"Brown Sugar Tarte Tatin. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71171\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brown Sugar Tarte Tatin. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 10-inch tart\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crust\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 4 tablespoons ice water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Filling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>½ cup unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 brown cup sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 pounds apples, peeled, cored and quartered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the crust, in a large bowl, whisk together the flour and salt. Cut in the butter using your fingertips or a pastry blender until most of mixture resembles coarse meal. Drizzle 2 tablespoons ice water evenly over mixture and gently stir with a fork until incorporated. Test mixture by gently squeezing a small handful. When it has proper texture it should hold together without crumbling apart. If necessary add enough remaining water, 1 tablespoon at a time, stirring until incorporated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wrap dough in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for 1 hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 425 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a deep, heavy 12-inch skillet melt the butter and sugar, stirring occasionally, then boil for 1 minute.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add apples and cook over moderate heat, turning fruit occasionally (be careful not to break the quarters) and gently stirring syrup, until the apples are glazed and the syrup begins to thicken, about 20 minutes. Stir tin he lemon juice and simmer, turning apples and gently stirring frequently, until most of syrup is evaporated and apples are tender and golden brown, about 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arrange apples in a 10-inch (1 1/2-quart) glass pie plate\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a lightly floured surface with a floured rolling pin, roll out dough into a 12-inch round and drape it over the apples. Tuck edge between apples and rim of dish and cut several steam vents in the pastry. Place the tart in the oven and bake for about 25 minutes, or until juices are bubbling and crust is golden brown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove from oven and let stand for 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Invert a serving plate over the pie plate and invert tart onto serving plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Serve warm or at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"muffins\">\u003c/a>Apple-Walnut Muffins\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>These hearty, wholesome muffins are lovely on crisp fall mornings with a bit of honey and a cup of tea or coffee. I use my homemade applesauce here, but of course you may use store bought if that is easier.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71167\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-muffins.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-muffins.jpg\" alt=\"Apple-Walnut Muffins. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71167\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Apple-Walnut Muffins. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 dozen muffins\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Muffins\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup non-dairy milk (or whole milk, if you prefer)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup maple syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup applesauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup vegetable oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups whole wheat pastry flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon baking powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium apples, peeled, cored and chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup chopped walnuts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Oat crumble topping\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons rolled oats\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Grease a 12-cup muffin tin or line it with cupcake liners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium bowl, whisk together the milk, vinegar, maple syrup, applesauce and oil until well combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, whisk together the flours, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, salt and ginger. Mix in the chopped apples, tossing to coat the fruit lightly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour the wet ingredients into the dry and stir gently until just combined. Fold in the nuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Distribute the batter evenly into the muffin tins and sprinkle each muffin with oats and brown sugar. Place in the oven and bake for 20-25 minutes, until a tester comes out clean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove tin from oven and let muffins cool in the pan for about 10 minutes, then turn the muffins out onto a wire rack to cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve room temperature or slightly warm, with a bit of margarine, butter or coconut butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"cake\">\u003c/a>Apple And Butter Cake\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lush with butter and fragrant with apples, this simple. rich cake is perfect to serve as the finish to a late-September lunch party or simply with a cup of afternoon tea any time. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71166\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-cake.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-cake.jpg\" alt=\"Apple and Butter Cake. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"819\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71166\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Apple and Butter Cake. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 10 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large apples, peeled and cored\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons ground cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup butter, at room temperature\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 teaspoon baking powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup orange juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour a tube pan or a springform cake pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slice the apples. Put in a small bowl and sprinkle with the sugar and cinnamon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, cream the butter and sugar using an electric mixer on medium-high speed. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well to combine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium bowl, sift together the dry ingredients and add to butter and sugar mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the orange juice and vanilla, beating well to form a smooth batter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour about a third of the batter into pan. Layer with one-half of the apples. Repeat for one more layer, finishing with the batter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place in oven and bake for about 1 1/2 hours until lightly browned and a tester inserted in the middle comes out clean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove from oven and let cool in pan on a rack for 20 minutes, then turn out onto the rack to cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"salad\">\u003c/a>Apple And Arugula Salad With Lemon Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>In this salad the sharp bite of arugula is balanced by crisp slices of apples and bound together by a lemony vinaigrette. Use apples that are slightly on the tarter side and make sure they are very firm and fresh.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71168\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-salad.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-salad.jpg\" alt=\"Apple and Arugula Salad with Lemon Vinaigrette. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71168\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Apple and Arugula Salad with Lemon Vinaigrette. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salad\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large apples, washed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups arugula\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch radishes, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced (white parts only)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 avocado, skin and pit removed and coarsely sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup shelled sunflower seeds, optional\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 shallot, finely diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon lemon zest\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil or to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thinly slice apples and place in a large salad bowl. Add the arugula, radishes, scallions, avocado and sunflower seeds is using. Lightly toss to combine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the vinaigrette, combine the first four ingredients in a small bowl and let stand for 15 minutes. Then whisk in the oil and season with pepper to taste. Taste to correct the balance, adding more oil if needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drizzle dressing over salad, gently tossing and turning to coat lightly. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>Nicole Spiridakis lives in San Francisco and writes about food, travel and her native state on her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cucinanicolina.com/\">cucinanicolina.com\u003c/a>. Her work has appeared in \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>, the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/\">chow.com\u003c/a> and other publications.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"As summer turns to fall, finding new ways to use up abundant apples is a great way to mark the arrival of autumn. And for one food writer, there's one apple in particular that spells the end of summer: Gravenstein apples, which are grown in her native Sebastopol, Calif.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1380324172,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":116,"wordCount":2380},"headData":{"title":"Gravenstein Apples: The End of Summer in a Fruit | KQED","description":"As summer turns to fall, finding new ways to use up abundant apples is a great way to mark the arrival of autumn. And for one food writer, there's one apple in particular that spells the end of summer: Gravenstein apples, which are grown in her native Sebastopol, Calif.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Gravenstein Apples: The End of Summer in a Fruit","datePublished":"2013-09-27T22:51:11.000Z","dateModified":"2013-09-27T23:22:52.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"71153 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=71153","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/09/27/gravenstein-apples-the-end-of-summer-in-a-fruit/","disqusTitle":"Gravenstein Apples: The End of Summer in a Fruit","nprByline":"Nicole Spiridakis","nprStoryId":"225884066","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=225884066&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/2013/09/25/225884066/gravenstein-apples-the-end-of-summer-in-a-fruit?ft=3&f=225884066","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 25 Sep 2013 03:50:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 25 Sep 2013 00:42:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 25 Sep 2013 03:50:55 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/71153/gravenstein-apples-the-end-of-summer-in-a-fruit","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71172\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples.jpg\" alt=\"Gravenstein Apples. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71172\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Gravenstein Apples. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Nicole Spiridakis, \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/09/25/225884066/gravenstein-apples-the-end-of-summer-in-a-fruit\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (9/27/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#sauce\">Just Apples Applesauce\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#tart\">Brown Sugar Tarte Tatin\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#muffins\">Apple-Walnut Muffins\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#cake\">Apple And Butter Cake\u003c/a> and \u003ca href=\"#salad\">Apple And Arugula Salad With Lemon Vinaigrette\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In fall, my thoughts naturally turn to apples. Specifically, Gravensteins.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For many years Gravensteins were the hallmark of Sebastopol, Calif., the small town where I grew up about an hour north of San Francisco. Miles of apple trees and vineyards snugly fit side by side in a peaceful coexistence that juxtaposes the old and the new. When I was a kid there were more apples than grapes; we knew Sebastopol as the 'apple capital' rather than as an extension of wine country. Our back-to-school mornings were tinged with the scent of fermenting fruit and we tucked crisp apples into our lunch boxes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Apples, particularly Gravensteins, were a backdrop to my childhood. I attended Gravenstein Elementary School and participated in the apple blossom parade each spring. In late summer I baked pies to enter in the Gravenstein Apple Fair where I ate apple crumbles piled high with whipped cream and munched on cinnamon-drizzled slices of the local crop as the afternoon waned. Apples and western Sonoma County seemed made for each other.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Things are slightly different now. Although the festivals are still going strong, most of the apple processing plants closed years ago and grape vines are slowly eradicating the ancient, gnarled trunks. But thanks to Slow Food USA – which in 2005 declared the Gravenstein apple a heritage food, thus giving it a much-needed bit of caché – my cherished 'Gravs' are experiencing something of a renaissance.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Why love Gravensteins? First and foremost they are a wonderful cooking apple. Crisp and tart and with a touch of honey, Gravensteins are especially good in sauce and cider or dried (in fact, Sebastopol Gravensteins were the source for apple sauce and dried apples for the U.S. troops in World War II).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gravenstein's origins lie in 17\u003csup>th\u003c/sup>-century Denmark. In addition to Sebastopol, the fruit is grown from Nova Scotia to the Pacific Northwest. I like them in nearly everything, from a tarte tatin to a buttery, rich cake laden with apple slices.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The trees live lightly on the land, a boon in a perpetually drought-plagued state such as California. Their roots dig deep into the sandy, loamy soil and survive and thrive without irrigation. The coastal fog that typically blows in during the early evening and burns off in the morning sun also helps to create a perfect environment for the trees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>While I know change is as inevitable as the shift of the seasons, it breaks my heart a little to see the orchards being steadily replaced with vineyards. Gravenstein acreage has declined from 1,200 a decade ago to 763 in 2010. In an effort to sustain the remaining orchards, some growers have switched to growing their apples organically, which has helped. Regardless, the area remains an agricultural paradise.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When I was growing up we had in our backyard from roughly June through October: plums, nectarines, blueberries, strawberries, blackberries, walnuts, almonds, apples and various vegetables during the summer months. Typical of oblivious children, I don't think my brother and I really appreciated — or even were aware of — how fortunate we were to be assigned the 'task' of picking blueberries, stuffing two berries into our mouths for every five we threw in a bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>But that is the true beauty of a fortunate childhood: to be so fully immersed in the moment you have no need to think of the next day or even the next few hours. It is enough simply to be with your dog panting quietly on the dry grass in the shade, listening to the crows call overhead, eating fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>My mom sometimes made strawberry jam from the garden strawberries and the kitchen smelled delicious, all hot and steamy from the big pots on the stove. As I got older, I used the blackberries in pies, or a tiny batch of jam once in awhile, or as the perfect garnish for the mini angel-food cakes I'd bake for my dad.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Every fall for many years Mom made applesauce. I loved applesauce days. I probably didn't help out more than to peer into the bubbling pot every so often and beg for a taste or two, but the process took at least an entire day. All the fruit came from our trees – though there were only a few they were prolific – and I still pilfer apples when I visit my parents' house in late summer. It was a bit of work, sure, but I loved eating that applesauce; when we had it with a weeknight dinner it elevated the meal into something special.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>I try to carry on that tradition in my own kitchen, but I will confess that these days I mostly make small batches of sauce and save the apples for more involved dishes (think cakes, muffins, quick bread, even salads). I lace my pies with cinnamon and ginger — the apple's best friends — and infuse them with maple syrup and brown sugar. This never fails to up the ante. But what I'm really after is that sweet-tart, quintessential fall flavor – the end of summer captured in a fruit.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Of course, no apple is created alike, but in my recipes you may use any variety of your favorite cooking apple (though if pressed I may argue in favor of my beloved Gravs). 'Tis the season, after all.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"sauce\">\u003c/a>Just Apples Applesauce\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>More a formula than an exact recipe, this is my favorite way to prepare applesauce – completely unadorned. However, I will occasionally stir in some additional flavorings after I've made it: a bit of butter, a teaspoon of cinnamon, some maple syrup or brown sugar. If your apples are on the tart side, you may find it to your taste to sweeten them up a little. But it's all up to you.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71169\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-sauce.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-sauce.jpg\" alt=\"Just Apples Applesauce. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"823\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71169\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Just Apples Applesauce. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 1/3 cups \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 pound apples, peeled, cored and roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Splash of water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the apples in a large heavy-bottomed pot. Add the water and turn heat to high. When the apples and water are just boiling, reduce heat to a simmer and stir frequently. Cook apples until tender, adding more water if necessary, stirring and mashing with a wooden spoon against the side of the pot as they cook.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>When apples are cooked through and very tender, remove from heat. Using the wooden spoon or a potato masher, mash the apples until they are fairly smooth (I prefer a lumpier sauce). If you like a smoother sauce, puree apples in a food processor or blender.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Refrigerate until ready to serve. Applesauce may be served cold or at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"tart\">\u003c/a>Brown Sugar Tarte Tatin\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I love to make a tarte tatin – a French upside down tart made with apples caramelized in butter and sugar – in the fall; it seems to perfectly suit the season. Serve slices of this dessert with dollops of softly whipped cream or, better yet, slightly warm and serve with vanilla ice cream.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71171\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-tarte-tatin.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-tarte-tatin.jpg\" alt=\"Brown Sugar Tarte Tatin. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71171\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Brown Sugar Tarte Tatin. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 10-inch tart\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Crust\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 to 4 tablespoons ice water\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Filling\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>½ cup unsalted butter\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 brown cup sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 pounds apples, peeled, cored and quartered\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the crust, in a large bowl, whisk together the flour and salt. Cut in the butter using your fingertips or a pastry blender until most of mixture resembles coarse meal. Drizzle 2 tablespoons ice water evenly over mixture and gently stir with a fork until incorporated. Test mixture by gently squeezing a small handful. When it has proper texture it should hold together without crumbling apart. If necessary add enough remaining water, 1 tablespoon at a time, stirring until incorporated.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wrap dough in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for 1 hour.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 425 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a deep, heavy 12-inch skillet melt the butter and sugar, stirring occasionally, then boil for 1 minute.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add apples and cook over moderate heat, turning fruit occasionally (be careful not to break the quarters) and gently stirring syrup, until the apples are glazed and the syrup begins to thicken, about 20 minutes. Stir tin he lemon juice and simmer, turning apples and gently stirring frequently, until most of syrup is evaporated and apples are tender and golden brown, about 10 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Arrange apples in a 10-inch (1 1/2-quart) glass pie plate\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>On a lightly floured surface with a floured rolling pin, roll out dough into a 12-inch round and drape it over the apples. Tuck edge between apples and rim of dish and cut several steam vents in the pastry. Place the tart in the oven and bake for about 25 minutes, or until juices are bubbling and crust is golden brown.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove from oven and let stand for 5 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Invert a serving plate over the pie plate and invert tart onto serving plate.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp> Serve warm or at room temperature.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"muffins\">\u003c/a>Apple-Walnut Muffins\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>These hearty, wholesome muffins are lovely on crisp fall mornings with a bit of honey and a cup of tea or coffee. I use my homemade applesauce here, but of course you may use store bought if that is easier.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71167\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-muffins.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-muffins.jpg\" alt=\"Apple-Walnut Muffins. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71167\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Apple-Walnut Muffins. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 1 dozen muffins\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Muffins\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup non-dairy milk (or whole milk, if you prefer)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup maple syrup\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup applesauce\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup vegetable oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 cups whole wheat pastry flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup all-purpose flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon baking powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon baking soda\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch of ground ginger\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 medium apples, peeled, cored and chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 cup chopped walnuts\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Oat crumble topping\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons rolled oats\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons brown sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Grease a 12-cup muffin tin or line it with cupcake liners.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium bowl, whisk together the milk, vinegar, maple syrup, applesauce and oil until well combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, whisk together the flours, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, salt and ginger. Mix in the chopped apples, tossing to coat the fruit lightly.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour the wet ingredients into the dry and stir gently until just combined. Fold in the nuts.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Distribute the batter evenly into the muffin tins and sprinkle each muffin with oats and brown sugar. Place in the oven and bake for 20-25 minutes, until a tester comes out clean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove tin from oven and let muffins cool in the pan for about 10 minutes, then turn the muffins out onto a wire rack to cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Serve room temperature or slightly warm, with a bit of margarine, butter or coconut butter.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"cake\">\u003c/a>Apple And Butter Cake\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Lush with butter and fragrant with apples, this simple. rich cake is perfect to serve as the finish to a late-September lunch party or simply with a cup of afternoon tea any time. \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71166\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-cake.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-cake.jpg\" alt=\"Apple and Butter Cake. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"819\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71166\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Apple and Butter Cake. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 10 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large apples, peeled and cored\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 teaspoons ground cinnamon\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 cup butter, at room temperature\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups sugar\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large eggs\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups flour\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 teaspoon baking powder\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup orange juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour a tube pan or a springform cake pan.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slice the apples. Put in a small bowl and sprinkle with the sugar and cinnamon.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a large bowl, cream the butter and sugar using an electric mixer on medium-high speed. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well to combine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In a medium bowl, sift together the dry ingredients and add to butter and sugar mixture.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the orange juice and vanilla, beating well to form a smooth batter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pour about a third of the batter into pan. Layer with one-half of the apples. Repeat for one more layer, finishing with the batter.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place in oven and bake for about 1 1/2 hours until lightly browned and a tester inserted in the middle comes out clean.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove from oven and let cool in pan on a rack for 20 minutes, then turn out onto the rack to cool completely.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003cstrong>\u003ca name=\"salad\">\u003c/a>Apple And Arugula Salad With Lemon Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>In this salad the sharp bite of arugula is balanced by crisp slices of apples and bound together by a lemony vinaigrette. Use apples that are slightly on the tarter side and make sure they are very firm and fresh.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_71168\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-salad.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/apples-salad.jpg\" alt=\"Apple and Arugula Salad with Lemon Vinaigrette. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"745\" class=\"size-full wp-image-71168\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Apple and Arugula Salad with Lemon Vinaigrette. Photo: Nicole Spiridakis for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salad\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 large apples, washed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 cups arugula\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch radishes, thinly sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced (white parts only)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 avocado, skin and pit removed and coarsely sliced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 cup shelled sunflower seeds, optional\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Vinaigrette\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 shallot, finely diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon lemon zest\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil or to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon black pepper\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Thinly slice apples and place in a large salad bowl. Add the arugula, radishes, scallions, avocado and sunflower seeds is using. Lightly toss to combine.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>For the vinaigrette, combine the first four ingredients in a small bowl and let stand for 15 minutes. Then whisk in the oil and season with pepper to taste. Taste to correct the balance, adding more oil if needed.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Drizzle dressing over salad, gently tossing and turning to coat lightly. \u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\n\u003cp>Nicole Spiridakis lives in San Francisco and writes about food, travel and her native state on her blog, \u003ca href=\"http://www.cucinanicolina.com/\">cucinanicolina.com\u003c/a>. Her work has appeared in \u003cem>The New York Times\u003c/em>, the \u003cem>San Francisco Chronicle\u003c/em>, \u003ca href=\"http://www.chow.com/\">chow.com\u003c/a> and other publications.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/71153/gravenstein-apples-the-end-of-summer-in-a-fruit","authors":["byline_bayareabites_71153"],"categories":["bayareabites_1516","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_469","bayareabites_12465","bayareabites_11086","bayareabites_2942"],"featImg":"bayareabites_71170","label":"bayareabites"},"bayareabites_70180":{"type":"posts","id":"bayareabites_70180","meta":{"index":"posts_1591205157","site":"bayareabites","id":"70180","score":null,"sort":[1379218996000]},"guestAuthors":[],"slug":"comte-shows-theres-more-than-gruyere-in-the-alps-recipes","title":"Comte Shows There's More Than Gruyere In The Alps","publishDate":1379218996,"format":"aside","headTitle":"Bay Area Bites | KQED Food","labelTerm":{"site":"bayareabites"},"content":"\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70186\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-salad.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-salad.jpg\" alt=\"Tri-Color Comte, Cherry And Hazelnut Salad. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70186\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tri-Color Comte, Cherry And Hazelnut Salad. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Kirstin Jackson. \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/09/11/220803338/comte-shows-there-s-more-than-gruyere-in-the-alps\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (9/11/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#salad\">Tri-Color Comte, Cherry And Hazelnut Salad\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#gratin\">Celery Root And Potato Comte Gratin\u003c/a> And \u003ca href=\"#sandwich\">Strawberry Jam And Walnut Herbed Grilled Comte Sandwich\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Known for its fondue-ready texture and nutty taste, Swiss Gruyere has long been the cheese of choice for cooks who want something as smooth melting as mozzarella but with more complexity. But in the mountains just across the French border, there's another Alpine-style cheese that just might one-up this standard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With flavors of fresh butter, citrus, hazelnuts, caramelized onions or chocolate, Comte is a cheese with more range than Meryl Streep and a texture just as seamless. It is a smooth, firm, butter-colored cheese that darkens at the rind. Most Comte found in the United States is 8 to 12 months old, but occasionally, an up to 2-year-old, more powerful Comte can be found at select cheesemongers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some say Comte's flavor resembles Gruyere's. It does a little, which is no surprise given its history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad fullwidth]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gruyere formerly was used as a catchall term to describe Rhone-Alpine-style cheese in the western French and eastern Swiss mountains until 2001. Family members included Comte, Beaufort, Abondance, French Gruyere and Swiss Gruyere. Made in the somewhat similar fashion typical of these mountains, the wheels are large (at least 15, and up to 90 pounds), cooked and pressed cow's raw milk cheeses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2001, however, Switzerland received AOC (Appellation d'Origine Controlee/Controlled Appellation of Origin) status for its Gruyere. This meant unless a cheese was made via specified methods in AOC Swiss provinces, it could no longer go by the name (except for some made in a tiny French region that never makes it across the pond).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With very effective Swiss marketing, Gruyere quickly earned more kitchen space than its former cheese relatives. Comte-Gruyere, an AOC cheese since 1958, became Comte. Lesser known, but with just as storied of a history and its own marketing team making strides, Comte has been garnering attention here too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A cheese first made more than 1,000 years ago to tide families over during the harsh Jura winters when milk was less abundant and cows were cooped up in barns, Comte is an 80-pound cooperative cheese. Because dairy farmers had small herds and making cheese is so much work, communities pooled their milk and hired fromagers (cheesemakers). Comte is still made this way today, and most fromagers still live over the room where they turn milk into wheels for the tightknit communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the cows are milked in the morning, farmers bring their milk to the fromager. The fromager gently heats the milk in a copper vat, adds rennet and cultures they made that morning, waits for the curd to reach the consistency of a firm custard, then cuts it into rice-sized pieces and cooks them on low heat. Next the curds are separated from whey and pressed in wheel molds. After about 7 hours, the still-elastic and white Comtes are taken to a cellar and rubbed down with salt and a brine to form the rinds. Three or so weeks\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>later, the cheese babes are taken to an affineur (a professional who ages and nurtures cheese) to ripen. All of this is dictated by AOC rules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like all AOC cheeses, Comte is highly regulated. It must be made in the Franche-Comte Jura mountains according to rules dictating all levels of its production. Such rules state: how much pasture a cow (Montbeliard only, please) requires — 1 hectare; the type of board cheese must be aged on — Jura spruce; the way udders must be cleaned and how beneficial microflora should be encouraged; and, the maximum number of wheels a cheesemaker can make per day, or month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rules concerning the cheese's production are safeguarded and determined by boards of Comte dairy farmers, cheesemakers, affineurs and cheesemongers. They exist to protect the cheese's quality, tradition and livelihood of those connected to it, yet are open to reconsideration if research suggests a way to improve Comte without varying its characteristic deliciousness. Flavor variations due to terroir and microflora in different regions of the Jura are encouraged, too, as long as they stay true to form.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After its 4 or 6 months in affinage caves, Comte takes on its characteristic flavors and texture. Sweet, lactic flavors are its base, but depending on which farms the milk is from, how long, or where it's aged, it will taste as varied as cafe au lait, mushrooms, brown butter, chocolate or pineapple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because Comte is so giving and its flavors so many, it has super kitchen potential. It's good melted, grated, shaved, baked or on a cheese plate. If buying from a supermarket, look for one that was wrapped recently. If procuring from a cheese shop, taste. Cross your fingers that they have more than one type of Comte for you and your taste bud's perusal.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"salad\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Tri-Color Comte, Cherry And Hazelnut Salad\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>With an already visually appealing blend of radicchio, Belgian endive and parsley, this salad offers even more color with dark cherries and off-white or yellow Comte. The lightly bitter greens complement the sweet, rich flavors of the cheese and hazelnuts, and the shallots, lemon juice and parsley keep the dish lively. If fresh cherries are not in season, peaches, persimmons, apples or dried cherries will also work. Taste and buy your Comte from a high-end cheese shop if possible for this dish. Its complex flavors have a great chance to shine in this salad.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 to 6 servings \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salad\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 Belgian endives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium-sized radicchio (about 7 ounces) untrimmed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup parsley leaves, lightly packed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces toasted hazelnuts, half roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>24 pitted cherries, half cut in half\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces shaved Comte\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dressing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons Dijion mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons minced shallot\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon lemon juice, freshly squeezed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wash the endive and radicchio. Cut off the bottom of the endive and peel away the leaves, slicing more from the bottom as you get closer to the center to loosen the leaves. Cut off the bottom of the radicchio. Set the base on the cutting board and slice in half from top to bottom. Slice once more in the opposite direction. Being careful not to loose too much of the leaves, remove the core and cut each of the radicchio quarters into three pieces. Add this and the parsley to a large bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the mustard, shallot, lemon juice, olive oil and salt in a small bowl and whisk or stir with a fork until the mixture emulsifies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the hazelnuts, cherries, dressing and half the Comte to the large bowl. Mix with your hands. Salt and pepper to taste. Divide onto plates and top with the remaining Comte shavings.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"gratin\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Celery Root And Potato Comte Gratin\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Comte adds a sweet touch to this rich dish, and the addition of celery root provides a little diversion from the classic potato gratin. When choosing celery root, look for a young one to avoid tough fiber in the dish, and don't be afraid to peel away to the softer inner core if the layer under the peel feels dry or rough. Keep the sides with this one light — it's rich and heavy, just as a gratin should be.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70187\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-gratin.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-gratin.jpg\" alt=\"Celery Root And Potato Comte Gratin. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70187\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Celery Root And Potato Comte Gratin. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 to 8 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 sage leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>10 ounces celery root (about 15-18 ounces untrimmed), trimmed, peeled and medium-diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cloves garlic, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 teaspoons salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch nutmeg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large russet potatoes (about 1 1/2 pounds), peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 ounces Comte, grated (about 1 1/2 cups, grated)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon butter, room temperature\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring a small pot filled with enough water to cover the celery root to a boil. Add the sage, enough salt so the water tastes like the sea and the celery root. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 12 to 20 minutes - until the celery root pieces have lost their fibrous bite. Drain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Butter an 8-by-8-inch baking dish. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the cream, garlic, salt and nutmeg in a medium-sized saucepan and bring to a boil. Stir, remove the pot from heat and keep warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slice the potatoes 1/8-inch thick, put in a bowl and cover with water to keep from browning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Working in layers, put 1/4 of the cooked, warmed cream mixture on the bottom of the buttered pan, stirring it as you layer to make sure the garlic is evenly distributed through the dish. Evenly layer both a third of the potatoes and celery root over the cream. Top with cheese. Repeat until finished with the root vegetables and cheese, then top off the dish with the remaining cooked cream. Cover with foil and cook for 45 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the foil and cook for 30 or 45 minutes longer, until the top is brown and the potatoes are cooked through. Let sit for 10 minutes before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"sandwich\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Strawberry Jam And Walnut Herbed Grilled Comte Sandwich\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I've always liked the idea of a slightly sweet grilled-cheese sandwich. This one is kept savory with a light salting of the bread and rosemary, and the optional red pepper flakes offer a little kick.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70188\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-grilled.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-grilled.jpg\" alt=\"Strawberry Jam And Walnut Herbed Grilled Comte Sandwich. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70188\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strawberry Jam And Walnut Herbed Grilled Comte Sandwich. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon fresh thyme, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 slices Italian batard or white country-style loaf\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6-7 tablespoons salted butter, room temperature\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons strawberry jam\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons toasted walnuts, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7 ounces Comte, grated\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the chopped rosemary and thyme together in a small bowl and stir until combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pair the bread for sandwiches. Lightly butter one side of each of the 8 pieces of bread. Next, butter the other side of 4 of those same pieces. Lightly salt the bread that has both sides buttered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Divide and spread the strawberry jam among the unbuttered portions of the original 8 slices. Sprinkle with a quarter of the mixed herbs and the walnuts. Top with grated Comte and a quarter of the red pepper flakes. Use the remaining buttered slices to cover the sandwich base.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat 1 teaspoon of butter per sandwich in a heavy bottomed cast iron skillet or pan over medium heat. Place the sandwiches in the pan and press down firmly with a spatula. Sprinkle with an additional pinch of salt to taste and reduce heat to low. Flip when the first side is golden brown, about 5 to 7 minutes. Repeat with the second side on medium-low heat. The sandwiches are ready when golden brown and the cheese is melted. Serve immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The author of the book \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Its-Not-You-Brie-Unwrapping/dp/039953766X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1379167572&sr=8-1&keywords=it%27s+not+you+it%27s+brie\">It's Not You, It's Brie: Unwrapping America's Unique Culture of Cheese\u003c/a>,\" Kirstin Jackson is a writer, educator, professional cook and consultant, who focuses almost entirely on cheese, wine and beer. When not traveling the world in search of the perfect wheel or teaching classes around the country, her fromage musings can be found on her blog \u003ca href=\"http://itsnotyouitsbrie.com/\">It's Not You It's Brie\u003c/a>, on \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ItsBrieBlog\">Twitter\u003c/a> and her \u003ca href=\"http://itsnotyouitsbrie.us7.list-manage.com/subscribe?u=0551b826bf7a620c0e7611934&id=a7c5b0f053\">newsletter\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>[ad floatright]\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n","blocks":[],"excerpt":"With flavors of fresh butter, citrus, hazelnuts, caramelized onions or chocolate, Comte is a cheese with more range than Meryl Streep and a texture just as seamless.","status":"publish","parent":0,"modified":1379218996,"stats":{"hasAudio":false,"hasVideo":false,"hasChartOrMap":false,"iframeSrcs":[],"hasGoogleForm":false,"hasGallery":false,"hasHearkenModule":false,"hasPolis":false,"paragraphCount":71,"wordCount":1953},"headData":{"title":"Comte Shows There's More Than Gruyere In The Alps | KQED","description":"With flavors of fresh butter, citrus, hazelnuts, caramelized onions or chocolate, Comte is a cheese with more range than Meryl Streep and a texture just as seamless.","ogTitle":"","ogDescription":"","ogImgId":"","twTitle":"","twDescription":"","twImgId":"","schema":{"@context":"http://schema.org","@type":"Article","headline":"Comte Shows There's More Than Gruyere In The Alps","datePublished":"2013-09-15T04:23:16.000Z","dateModified":"2013-09-15T04:23:16.000Z","image":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/KQED-OG-Image@1x.png"}},"disqusIdentifier":"70180 http://blogs.kqed.org/bayareabites/?p=70180","disqusUrl":"https://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/2013/09/14/comte-shows-theres-more-than-gruyere-in-the-alps-recipes/","disqusTitle":"Comte Shows There's More Than Gruyere In The Alps","nprByline":"Kirstin Jackson","nprStoryId":"220803338","nprApiLink":"http://api.npr.org/query?id=220803338&apiKey=MDAxOTAwOTE4MDEyMTkxMDAzNjczZDljZA004","nprHtmlLink":"http://www.npr.org/2013/09/11/220803338/comte-shows-there-s-more-than-gruyere-in-the-alps?ft=3&f=220803338","nprRetrievedStory":"1","nprPubDate":"Wed, 11 Sep 2013 16:50:00 -0400","nprStoryDate":"Wed, 11 Sep 2013 00:07:00 -0400","nprLastModifiedDate":"Wed, 11 Sep 2013 16:50:24 -0400","path":"/bayareabites/70180/comte-shows-theres-more-than-gruyere-in-the-alps-recipes","audioTrackLength":null,"parsedContent":[{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70186\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 624px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-salad.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-salad.jpg\" alt=\"Tri-Color Comte, Cherry And Hazelnut Salad. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\" width=\"624\" height=\"350\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70186\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tri-Color Comte, Cherry And Hazelnut Salad. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>Post by Kirstin Jackson. \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/2013/09/11/220803338/comte-shows-there-s-more-than-gruyere-in-the-alps\">Kitchen Window at NPR Food\u003c/a> (9/11/13)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Get recipes for \u003ca href=\"#salad\">Tri-Color Comte, Cherry And Hazelnut Salad\u003c/a>, \u003ca href=\"#gratin\">Celery Root And Potato Comte Gratin\u003c/a> And \u003ca href=\"#sandwich\">Strawberry Jam And Walnut Herbed Grilled Comte Sandwich\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Known for its fondue-ready texture and nutty taste, Swiss Gruyere has long been the cheese of choice for cooks who want something as smooth melting as mozzarella but with more complexity. But in the mountains just across the French border, there's another Alpine-style cheese that just might one-up this standard.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With flavors of fresh butter, citrus, hazelnuts, caramelized onions or chocolate, Comte is a cheese with more range than Meryl Streep and a texture just as seamless. It is a smooth, firm, butter-colored cheese that darkens at the rind. Most Comte found in the United States is 8 to 12 months old, but occasionally, an up to 2-year-old, more powerful Comte can be found at select cheesemongers.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Some say Comte's flavor resembles Gruyere's. It does a little, which is no surprise given its history.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"fullwidth"},"numeric":["fullwidth"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Gruyere formerly was used as a catchall term to describe Rhone-Alpine-style cheese in the western French and eastern Swiss mountains until 2001. Family members included Comte, Beaufort, Abondance, French Gruyere and Swiss Gruyere. Made in the somewhat similar fashion typical of these mountains, the wheels are large (at least 15, and up to 90 pounds), cooked and pressed cow's raw milk cheeses.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>In 2001, however, Switzerland received AOC (Appellation d'Origine Controlee/Controlled Appellation of Origin) status for its Gruyere. This meant unless a cheese was made via specified methods in AOC Swiss provinces, it could no longer go by the name (except for some made in a tiny French region that never makes it across the pond).\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>With very effective Swiss marketing, Gruyere quickly earned more kitchen space than its former cheese relatives. Comte-Gruyere, an AOC cheese since 1958, became Comte. Lesser known, but with just as storied of a history and its own marketing team making strides, Comte has been garnering attention here too.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>A cheese first made more than 1,000 years ago to tide families over during the harsh Jura winters when milk was less abundant and cows were cooped up in barns, Comte is an 80-pound cooperative cheese. Because dairy farmers had small herds and making cheese is so much work, communities pooled their milk and hired fromagers (cheesemakers). Comte is still made this way today, and most fromagers still live over the room where they turn milk into wheels for the tightknit communities.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After the cows are milked in the morning, farmers bring their milk to the fromager. The fromager gently heats the milk in a copper vat, adds rennet and cultures they made that morning, waits for the curd to reach the consistency of a firm custard, then cuts it into rice-sized pieces and cooks them on low heat. Next the curds are separated from whey and pressed in wheel molds. After about 7 hours, the still-elastic and white Comtes are taken to a cellar and rubbed down with salt and a brine to form the rinds. Three or so weeks\u003cstrong> \u003c/strong>later, the cheese babes are taken to an affineur (a professional who ages and nurtures cheese) to ripen. All of this is dictated by AOC rules.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Like all AOC cheeses, Comte is highly regulated. It must be made in the Franche-Comte Jura mountains according to rules dictating all levels of its production. Such rules state: how much pasture a cow (Montbeliard only, please) requires — 1 hectare; the type of board cheese must be aged on — Jura spruce; the way udders must be cleaned and how beneficial microflora should be encouraged; and, the maximum number of wheels a cheesemaker can make per day, or month.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The rules concerning the cheese's production are safeguarded and determined by boards of Comte dairy farmers, cheesemakers, affineurs and cheesemongers. They exist to protect the cheese's quality, tradition and livelihood of those connected to it, yet are open to reconsideration if research suggests a way to improve Comte without varying its characteristic deliciousness. Flavor variations due to terroir and microflora in different regions of the Jura are encouraged, too, as long as they stay true to form.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>After its 4 or 6 months in affinage caves, Comte takes on its characteristic flavors and texture. Sweet, lactic flavors are its base, but depending on which farms the milk is from, how long, or where it's aged, it will taste as varied as cafe au lait, mushrooms, brown butter, chocolate or pineapple.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Because Comte is so giving and its flavors so many, it has super kitchen potential. It's good melted, grated, shaved, baked or on a cheese plate. If buying from a supermarket, look for one that was wrapped recently. If procuring from a cheese shop, taste. Cross your fingers that they have more than one type of Comte for you and your taste bud's perusal.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"salad\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Tri-Color Comte, Cherry And Hazelnut Salad\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>With an already visually appealing blend of radicchio, Belgian endive and parsley, this salad offers even more color with dark cherries and off-white or yellow Comte. The lightly bitter greens complement the sweet, rich flavors of the cheese and hazelnuts, and the shallots, lemon juice and parsley keep the dish lively. If fresh cherries are not in season, peaches, persimmons, apples or dried cherries will also work. Taste and buy your Comte from a high-end cheese shop if possible for this dish. Its complex flavors have a great chance to shine in this salad.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 to 6 servings \u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Salad\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>5 Belgian endives\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 medium-sized radicchio (about 7 ounces) untrimmed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3/4 cup parsley leaves, lightly packed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces toasted hazelnuts, half roughly chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>24 pitted cherries, half cut in half\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 ounces shaved Comte\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>Dressing\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons Dijion mustard\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 tablespoons minced shallot\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 tablespoon lemon juice, freshly squeezed\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/4 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Wash the endive and radicchio. Cut off the bottom of the endive and peel away the leaves, slicing more from the bottom as you get closer to the center to loosen the leaves. Cut off the bottom of the radicchio. Set the base on the cutting board and slice in half from top to bottom. Slice once more in the opposite direction. Being careful not to loose too much of the leaves, remove the core and cut each of the radicchio quarters into three pieces. Add this and the parsley to a large bowl.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the mustard, shallot, lemon juice, olive oil and salt in a small bowl and whisk or stir with a fork until the mixture emulsifies.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Add the hazelnuts, cherries, dressing and half the Comte to the large bowl. Mix with your hands. Salt and pepper to taste. Divide onto plates and top with the remaining Comte shavings.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"gratin\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Celery Root And Potato Comte Gratin\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Comte adds a sweet touch to this rich dish, and the addition of celery root provides a little diversion from the classic potato gratin. When choosing celery root, look for a young one to avoid tough fiber in the dish, and don't be afraid to peel away to the softer inner core if the layer under the peel feels dry or rough. Keep the sides with this one light — it's rich and heavy, just as a gratin should be.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70187\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-gratin.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-gratin.jpg\" alt=\"Celery Root And Potato Comte Gratin. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70187\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Celery Root And Potato Comte Gratin. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 6 to 8 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>3 sage leaves\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>10 ounces celery root (about 15-18 ounces untrimmed), trimmed, peeled and medium-diced\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cups heavy cream\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 cloves garlic, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 1/2 teaspoons salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pinch nutmeg\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>2 large russet potatoes (about 1 1/2 pounds), peeled\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6 ounces Comte, grated (about 1 1/2 cups, grated)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon butter, room temperature\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Bring a small pot filled with enough water to cover the celery root to a boil. Add the sage, enough salt so the water tastes like the sea and the celery root. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 12 to 20 minutes - until the celery root pieces have lost their fibrous bite. Drain.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Butter an 8-by-8-inch baking dish. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Put the cream, garlic, salt and nutmeg in a medium-sized saucepan and bring to a boil. Stir, remove the pot from heat and keep warm.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Slice the potatoes 1/8-inch thick, put in a bowl and cover with water to keep from browning.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Working in layers, put 1/4 of the cooked, warmed cream mixture on the bottom of the buttered pan, stirring it as you layer to make sure the garlic is evenly distributed through the dish. Evenly layer both a third of the potatoes and celery root over the cream. Top with cheese. Repeat until finished with the root vegetables and cheese, then top off the dish with the remaining cooked cream. Cover with foil and cook for 45 minutes.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Remove the foil and cook for 30 or 45 minutes longer, until the top is brown and the potatoes are cooked through. Let sit for 10 minutes before serving.\u003c/p>\n\u003chr>\n\u003ch3>\u003ca name=\"sandwich\">\u003c/a>Recipe: Strawberry Jam And Walnut Herbed Grilled Comte Sandwich\u003c/h3>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>I've always liked the idea of a slightly sweet grilled-cheese sandwich. This one is kept savory with a light salting of the bread and rosemary, and the optional red pepper flakes offer a little kick.\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cfigure id=\"attachment_70188\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\" style=\"max-width: 1120px\">\u003ca href=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-grilled.jpg\">\u003cimg src=\"http://ww2.kqed.org/bayareabites/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2013/09/comte-grilled.jpg\" alt=\"Strawberry Jam And Walnut Herbed Grilled Comte Sandwich. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\" width=\"1120\" height=\"839\" class=\"size-full wp-image-70188\">\u003c/a>\u003cfigcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Strawberry Jam And Walnut Herbed Grilled Comte Sandwich. Photo: Kirstin Jackson for NPR\u003c/figcaption>\u003c/figure>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Makes 4 servings\u003c/em>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1 teaspoon fresh thyme, finely chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>8 slices Italian batard or white country-style loaf\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>6-7 tablespoons salted butter, room temperature\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/2 teaspoon salt\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons strawberry jam\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>4 tablespoons toasted walnuts, chopped\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>7 ounces Comte, grated\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Place the chopped rosemary and thyme together in a small bowl and stir until combined.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Pair the bread for sandwiches. Lightly butter one side of each of the 8 pieces of bread. Next, butter the other side of 4 of those same pieces. Lightly salt the bread that has both sides buttered.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Divide and spread the strawberry jam among the unbuttered portions of the original 8 slices. Sprinkle with a quarter of the mixed herbs and the walnuts. Top with grated Comte and a quarter of the red pepper flakes. Use the remaining buttered slices to cover the sandwich base.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>Heat 1 teaspoon of butter per sandwich in a heavy bottomed cast iron skillet or pan over medium heat. Place the sandwiches in the pan and press down firmly with a spatula. Sprinkle with an additional pinch of salt to taste and reduce heat to low. Flip when the first side is golden brown, about 5 to 7 minutes. Repeat with the second side on medium-low heat. The sandwiches are ready when golden brown and the cheese is melted. Serve immediately.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cstrong>About The Author\u003c/strong>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>The author of the book \"\u003ca href=\"http://www.amazon.com/Its-Not-You-Brie-Unwrapping/dp/039953766X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1379167572&sr=8-1&keywords=it%27s+not+you+it%27s+brie\">It's Not You, It's Brie: Unwrapping America's Unique Culture of Cheese\u003c/a>,\" Kirstin Jackson is a writer, educator, professional cook and consultant, who focuses almost entirely on cheese, wine and beer. When not traveling the world in search of the perfect wheel or teaching classes around the country, her fromage musings can be found on her blog \u003ca href=\"http://itsnotyouitsbrie.com/\">It's Not You It's Brie\u003c/a>, on \u003ca href=\"https://twitter.com/ItsBrieBlog\">Twitter\u003c/a> and her \u003ca href=\"http://itsnotyouitsbrie.us7.list-manage.com/subscribe?u=0551b826bf7a620c0e7611934&id=a7c5b0f053\">newsletter\u003c/a>.\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003c/p>\u003c/div>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}},{"type":"component","content":"","name":"ad","attributes":{"named":{"label":"floatright"},"numeric":["floatright"]}},{"type":"contentString","content":"\u003cdiv class=\"post-body\">\u003cp>\u003c/p>\n\u003cp>\u003cem>Copyright 2013 \u003ca href=\"http://www.npr.org/\">NPR\u003c/a>.\u003c/em> \u003c/p>\n\n\u003c/div>\u003c/p>","attributes":{"named":{},"numeric":[]}}],"link":"/bayareabites/70180/comte-shows-theres-more-than-gruyere-in-the-alps-recipes","authors":["byline_bayareabites_70180"],"categories":["bayareabites_188","bayareabites_10916","bayareabites_12"],"tags":["bayareabites_14750","bayareabites_12394","bayareabites_1855","bayareabites_11086"],"featImg":"bayareabites_70189","label":"bayareabites"}},"programsReducer":{"possible":{"id":"possible","title":"Possible","info":"Possible is hosted by entrepreneur Reid Hoffman and writer Aria Finger. Together in Possible, Hoffman and Finger lead enlightening discussions about building a brighter collective future. The show features interviews with visionary guests like Trevor Noah, Sam Altman and Janette Sadik-Khan. Possible paints an optimistic portrait of the world we can create through science, policy, business, art and our shared humanity. It asks: What if everything goes right for once? How can we get there? Each episode also includes a short fiction story generated by advanced AI GPT-4, serving as a thought-provoking springboard to speculate how humanity could leverage technology for good.","airtime":"SUN 2pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Possible-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.possible.fm/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Possible"},"link":"/radio/program/possible","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/possible/id1677184070","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/730YpdUSNlMyPQwNnyjp4k"}},"1a":{"id":"1a","title":"1A","info":"1A is home to the national conversation. 1A brings on great guests and frames the best debate in ways that make you think, share and engage.","airtime":"MON-THU 11pm-12am","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/radio/wp-content/uploads/sites/50/2018/04/1a.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://the1a.org/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/1a","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=1188724250&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/1A-p947376/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510316/podcast.xml"}},"all-things-considered":{"id":"all-things-considered","title":"All Things Considered","info":"Every weekday, \u003cem>All Things Considered\u003c/em> hosts Robert Siegel, Audie Cornish, Ari Shapiro, and Kelly McEvers present the program's trademark mix of news, interviews, commentaries, reviews, and offbeat features. Michel Martin hosts on the weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 1pm-2pm, 4:30pm-6:30pm\u003cbr />SAT-SUN 5pm-6pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/All-Things-Considered-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/all-things-considered/","meta":{"site":"news","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/all-things-considered"},"american-suburb-podcast":{"id":"american-suburb-podcast","title":"American Suburb: The Podcast","tagline":"The flip side of gentrification, told through one town","info":"Gentrification is changing cities across America, forcing people from neighborhoods they have long called home. Call them the displaced. Now those priced out of the Bay Area are looking for a better life in an unlikely place. American Suburb follows this migration to one California town along the Delta, 45 miles from San Francisco. But is this once sleepy suburb ready for them?","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/American-Suburb-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"13"},"link":"/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/RBrW","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?mt=2&id=1287748328","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/American-Suburb-p1086805/","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/series/american-suburb-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkMzMDExODgxNjA5"}},"baycurious":{"id":"baycurious","title":"Bay Curious","tagline":"Exploring the Bay Area, one question at a time","info":"KQED’s new podcast, Bay Curious, gets to the bottom of the mysteries — both profound and peculiar — that give the Bay Area its unique identity. And we’ll do it with your help! You ask the questions. You decide what Bay Curious investigates. And you join us on the journey to find the answers.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Bay-Curious-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"\"KQED Bay Curious","officialWebsiteLink":"/news/series/baycurious","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"4"},"link":"/podcasts/baycurious","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/bay-curious/id1172473406","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/500557090/bay-curious","rss":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/category/bay-curious-podcast/feed/podcast","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93dzIua3FlZC5vcmcvbmV3cy9jYXRlZ29yeS9iYXktY3VyaW91cy1wb2RjYXN0L2ZlZWQvcG9kY2FzdA","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqed/bay-curious","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/6O76IdmhixfijmhTZLIJ8k"}},"bbc-world-service":{"id":"bbc-world-service","title":"BBC World Service","info":"The day's top stories from BBC News compiled twice daily in the week, once at weekends.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9pm-10pm, TUE-FRI 1am-2am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/BBC-World-Service-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/live:bbc_world_service","meta":{"site":"news","source":"BBC World Service"},"link":"/radio/program/bbc-world-service","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/global-news-podcast/id135067274?mt=2","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/BBC-World-Service-p455581/","rss":"https://podcasts.files.bbci.co.uk/p02nq0gn.rss"}},"code-switch-life-kit":{"id":"code-switch-life-kit","title":"Code Switch / Life Kit","info":"\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em>, which listeners will hear in the first part of the hour, has fearless and much-needed conversations about race. Hosted by journalists of color, the show tackles the subject of race head-on, exploring how it impacts every part of society — from politics and pop culture to history, sports and more.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em>, which will be in the second part of the hour, guides you through spaces and feelings no one prepares you for — from finances to mental health, from workplace microaggressions to imposter syndrome, from relationships to parenting. The show features experts with real world experience and shares their knowledge. Because everyone needs a little help being human.\u003cbr />\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/510312/codeswitch\">\u003cem>Code Switch\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />\u003ca href=\"https://www.npr.org/lifekit\">\u003cem>Life Kit\u003c/em> offical site and podcast\u003c/a>\u003cbr />","airtime":"SUN 9pm-10pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Code-Switch-Life-Kit-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/code-switch-life-kit","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/1112190608?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnByLm9yZy9yc3MvcG9kY2FzdC5waHA_aWQ9NTEwMzEy","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3bExJ9JQpkwNhoHvaIIuyV","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/510312/podcast.xml"}},"commonwealth-club":{"id":"commonwealth-club","title":"Commonwealth Club of California Podcast","info":"The Commonwealth Club of California is the nation's oldest and largest public affairs forum. As a non-partisan forum, The Club brings to the public airwaves diverse viewpoints on important topics. The Club's weekly radio broadcast - the oldest in the U.S., dating back to 1924 - is carried across the nation on public radio stations and is now podcasting. Our website archive features audio of our recent programs, as well as selected speeches from our long and distinguished history. This podcast feed is usually updated twice a week and is always un-edited.","airtime":"THU 10pm, FRI 1am","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Commonwealth-Club-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.commonwealthclub.org/podcasts","meta":{"site":"news","source":"Commonwealth Club of California"},"link":"/radio/program/commonwealth-club","subscribe":{"apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/commonwealth-club-of-california-podcast/id976334034?mt=2","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jb21tb253ZWFsdGhjbHViLm9yZy9hdWRpby9wb2RjYXN0L3dlZWtseS54bWw","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Commonwealth-Club-of-California-p1060/"}},"considerthis":{"id":"considerthis","title":"Consider This","tagline":"Make sense of the day","info":"Make sense of the day. Every weekday afternoon, Consider This helps you consider the major stories of the day in less than 15 minutes, featuring the reporting and storytelling resources of NPR. Plus, KQED’s Bianca Taylor brings you the local KQED news you need to know.","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Consider-This-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"Consider This from NPR and KQED","officialWebsiteLink":"/podcasts/considerthis","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"7"},"link":"/podcasts/considerthis","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/podcast/id1503226625?mt=2&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/coronavirusdaily","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5ucHIub3JnLzUxMDM1NS9wb2RjYXN0LnhtbA","spotify":"https://open.spotify.com/show/3Z6JdCS2d0eFEpXHKI6WqH"}},"forum":{"id":"forum","title":"Forum","tagline":"The conversation starts here","info":"KQED’s live call-in program discussing local, state, national and international issues, as well as in-depth interviews.","airtime":"MON-FRI 9am-11am, 10pm-11pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Forum-Podcast-Tile-703x703-1.jpg","imageAlt":"KQED Forum with Mina Kim and Alexis Madrigal","officialWebsiteLink":"/forum","meta":{"site":"news","source":"kqed","order":"8"},"link":"/forum","subscribe":{"apple":"https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/kqeds-forum/id73329719","google":"https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9mZWVkcy5tZWdhcGhvbmUuZm0vS1FJTkM5NTU3MzgxNjMz","npr":"https://www.npr.org/podcasts/432307980/forum","stitcher":"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/kqedfm-kqeds-forum-podcast","rss":"https://feeds.megaphone.fm/KQINC9557381633"}},"freakonomics-radio":{"id":"freakonomics-radio","title":"Freakonomics Radio","info":"Freakonomics Radio is a one-hour award-winning podcast and public-radio project hosted by Stephen Dubner, with co-author Steve Levitt as a regular guest. It is produced in partnership with WNYC.","imageSrc":"https://ww2.kqed.org/news/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2018/05/freakonomicsRadio.png","officialWebsiteLink":"http://freakonomics.com/","airtime":"SUN 1am-2am, SAT 3pm-4pm","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"WNYC"},"link":"/radio/program/freakonomics-radio","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/4s8b","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/freakonomics-radio/id354668519","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/podcasts/WNYC-Podcasts/Freakonomics-Radio-p272293/","rss":"https://feeds.feedburner.com/freakonomicsradio"}},"fresh-air":{"id":"fresh-air","title":"Fresh Air","info":"Hosted by Terry Gross, \u003cem>Fresh Air from WHYY\u003c/em> is the Peabody Award-winning weekday magazine of contemporary arts and issues. One of public radio's most popular programs, Fresh Air features intimate conversations with today's biggest luminaries.","airtime":"MON-FRI 7pm-8pm","imageSrc":"https://cdn.kqed.org/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/Fresh-Air-Podcast-Tile-360x360-1.jpg","officialWebsiteLink":"https://www.npr.org/programs/fresh-air/","meta":{"site":"radio","source":"npr"},"link":"/radio/program/fresh-air","subscribe":{"npr":"https://rpb3r.app.goo.gl/4s8b","apple":"https://itunes.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?s=143441&mt=2&id=214089682&at=11l79Y&ct=nprdirectory","tuneIn":"https://tunein.com/radio/Fresh-Air-p17/","rss":"https://feeds.npr.org/381444908/podcast.xml"}},"here-and-now":{"id":"here-and-now","title":"Here & Now","info":"A live production of NPR and WBUR Boston, in collaboration with stations across the country, Here & Now reflects the fluid world of news as it's happening in the middle of the day, with timely, in-depth news, interviews and conversation. 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